march/april 2015

One Step at a Time Leave your youngsters with confidence in a UK-quality nursery – at Tiny Steps.

What it Takes Have you got what it takes to save the world at Escapology?

A Warm Welcome

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Graeme Malley graeme@siammap.com

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Akaphon Phongninlaarphon - Don

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Feature Writer Natalie Hughes

Feature Writer Rosanne Turner

Feature Writer Colleen Setchell

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Siam Map Company Ltd. 52/6 Samui Ring Road, Moo 3 Bo Phut, Koh Samui, 84320, Thailand Tel: 0 7742 2201 Fax: 0 7741 3523 E-mail: info@siammap.com www.siammap.com

Samui is not just about its fabulous palm-fringed beaches that are lapped by the warm turquoise waters.

There’s much much more. And that includes a wealth of Buddhist temples revealing the cultural side of the island. Then we have a myriad of adventurous activities available, including elephant trekking, scuba-diving, island-hopping, sailing and even bungy-jumping. Of course, if you’re after more of a sedate Samui experience, there are many world-class spas on Samui offering everything from a basic Thai massage to sumptuous all-in packages. The shopaholics amongst you won’t be disappointed either, with bargaining opportunities abounding.

And when it comes to restaurants, forget any preconceived ideas you may have had that all you’ll get here is a bowl of tom yam gung or a plate of fried rice. Samui prides itself on having one of the widest selections of different cuisines – anywhere! And the restaurants themselves also offer an amazing range, with everything from the most basic roadside eateries through to elegant fine-dining establishments perched on scenic hilltops of spread along the pristine beaches.

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Finally, we have the nightlife. And with numerous bars, nightclubs and other entertainment venues, Samui really does offer a total tropical holiday experience.

So, what with all the amazing things to do and see whilst you’re here, you’re sure to have a great time whenever you come. But if you’re here during the Songkran celebrations for the Thai New Year on the 13th April, you’ll have a totally unforgettable experience as you’ll be involved in the world’s biggest water fight – whether you like it or not!

Distribution at Bangkok Airport courtesy of Bangkok Airways.

Reservation Center: 1771 Samui Chaweng Office: 0 7760 1300 www.bangkokair.com

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Mediterranean Cuisine Cuisine Mediterranean Amidst Amidstaapanoramic panoramicdreamscape dreamscape that that overlooks overlooks the the pristine pristine Crystal Crystal Bay, Bay, The TheCliff Cliffwarmly warmlyinvites invitesyou youto toaatruly truly unforgettable unforgettable dining dining experience experience on on Koh Koh Samui.

Samui.

www.thecliffsamui.com

Wine Spectator Award of Excellence 2015 2015

HAPA 2011 - 2013 Most Exquisite Dining Experience Most Trendy Casual Dining Restaurant Of The Year

2005

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"Thailand's Best Restaurants" 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2011, 2013, 2014 & 2015

Reservations Essential For reservations please call 077 448 508 Bar daily 12pm - 2am

www.thecliffsamui.com

Kitchen opens 12pm - 10pm.

Choeng Mon

CONTENTS

50 44

30

20 A Day at the Beach The sights, the sounds and the smells of Chaweng Beach.

30 Into the Blue Beyond Blue Stars Kayaking offers great day trips to amazing tropical islands.

38 Winging your Way to Health Natural Wing Health Spa & Resort offers easy-to-implement ways to improve your health and well-being.

44 Trekking Out Cutting through the confusion of trips, treks and elephants – at Baan Chang, Living Thailand Tours.

50 One Step at a Time Leave your youngsters with confidence in a UK-quality nursery – at Tiny Steps.

56

Seasons in the Sun

70 Heavenly Heights Gaze down like a god at the breath-taking views from Narai Kiri.

74 All Thai-ed Up! With therapists ‘bending’ their clients into positions resembling a pretzel at times, what exactly is Thai massage all about?

82 Delicious? Definitely!

Noori India serves up amazingly good dishes and let you in on the recipes!

88 West Coast Haven Drift placidly towards The Siam Residence – a hidden gem in Lipa Noi!

92 The Whole Child and Nothing But SCL International School takes learning to new levels thanks to a holistic approach.

96 Mark the Page Understated fine dining at The Library.

A brief look at Samui’s climate.

62 A Ball at the Mall Central Festival Samui is all about having a relaxed time – whether you go shopping or not.

102 Working on Samui Is there a line between work and play?

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106 The Jewel in Chaweng Classic Gems offers a superb range of jewellery at very affordable prices.

112 What it Takes Have you got what it takes to save the world at Escapology?

118 Look a Little Closer Nathon has some charms - you’ve just got to know where to look.

126 Splish Splash!

Songkran - the world’s largest water fight.

132 Fins of Fury A look at the place of the Siamese fighting fish in popular Thai culture.

138 Palatial Patio The Patio Restaurant offers fine dining in an amazing setting.

144 Stone Snakes and Clay Characters The dramatic world of Wat Sila Ngu.

CRAFTED LIVING SPACES

INTRODUCING OUR HOT NEW OUTDOOR COLLECTION - SUMMER BREEZE

Moon Chill Out

Nemo Sun Lounger

Nikki Day Bed

A full range of luxurious sun loungers, day beds and sofas for lazy days by the pool. Stylish yet durable, they are ideal for pool-sides, garden decks, outdoor cafĂŠs or sunny loungesand clubhouses, yet remain attractive enough for indoor use.

T H E

H O M E

O F

I N S P I R E D

I N T E R I O R S

Phuket 424 Srisoonthorn Rd. Cherngtalay Tel/Fax: +66 (0) 76 325 419

Samui 9/18 Moo1 Maenam Tel/Fax: +66 (0) 77 247 675

info@oriental-living.net

www.oriental-living.net

w w w. t h e l a r d e r s a m u i . c o m 9/114 Moo 2 | Chaweng K o h S a m u i | S u r a t Th a n i 8 4 3 2 0 t: 077-601-259

Open 12pm - 11pm lunch through dinner Closed Sundays

SAMUi’s newest rooftop restaurant serving innovative thai and gourmet european fare

RiSE ABOVE

Open for Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner

WWW.ZAMASAMUI.COM Reservations +66 (0) 77 253 688 potatoes@zamasamui.com Prana Resort Nandana | Bangrak 14/3 Moo 4, Bophut, Koh Samui Suratthani, Thailand 84320

Island Insight An overall guide to Samui’s towns, villages, beaches and hotspots.

Samui is an idyllic tropical paradise. A blend of traditional Thai hospitality and remote island life has joined hands with modern traveller expectations. But the towns, villages and interior are home to much more than just luxury resorts, restaurants, bars and retail shops. And whilst the main beaches are recognised as some of the best in the world, there are also secluded coves and magical hideaways around many corners – if you know where to look. And this quick guide will point you in the right direction.

Chaweng

Chaweng’s main beach is five kilometres in length and is lined with 5-star luxury resorts, boutique hotels, budget accommodation and great oceanfront restaurants.

Behind the resorts, the Chaweng Beach Road is filled with restaurants, bars, spas, shops, street stalls and mobile food vendors. The lake sits to the rear of them and is a wonderful place for an early morning walk or jog. Near the southern end of the lake is the Soi Reggae entertainment area which also has two Muay Thai boxing stadiums, a temple guarded by carved monkeys and the huge Laem Din market complex. All manner of fresh produce is delivered here every day and the adjoining Dow Seafood market is a hive of activity from the early hours.

Lamai

Samui’s second most popular beach is around four kilometres long and the waters are perfect for swimming. There’s plenty of choice in accommodation, restaurants, bars, spas and health resorts. It also has a free Muay Thai event every Saturday and just off the Beach Road there’s a children’s water park. Wat Lamai is home to a cultural centre and museum that houses artifacts of Samui life before the advent of tourism. On Sundays there’s a ‘Walking Street’ along part of the Beach Road.

And just outside of Lamai town on the ring-road is the famous Hin Ta-Hin Yai rock formations that has dozens of small local Thai restaurants around it.

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Mae Nam

Nestled on the northern shores of the island, Mae Nam Beach stretches for several kilometres and overlooks the neighbouring island of Koh Pha-Ngan. High-end resorts and beach bungalows are dotted along the coast and many visitors love it for its peacefulness, soft golden sands and wonderful views. It has seven side streets that meander into the mountains: from Soi 1 you can follow the road over the mountains all the way to Lamai; Soi 4 has a ‘Walking Street’ every Thursday from mid-afternoon and also houses an ornate Chinese temple overlooking the beach and a large Buddhist temple set a few hundred metres back from the ringroad; Soi 5 has a tree-top canopy adventure theme park a few kilometres into the hills; there’s a buffalo fighting stadium a couple of hundred metres off the main road between Soi 5 and Soi 6; an early morning market is also in Soi 6; an evening market near to Soi 7; and the world-class Santiburi Golf Course in the hills above Soi 7. There’re dozens of bars and restaurants in Mae Nam, many of which are on side roads that lead down to the ocean. And at the western end of the beach the Lomprayah ferry takes passengers to the neighbouring islands several times a day.

NathoN

This is the island’s main administrative centre and the major ferry port for boats to and from the mainland. There’re some hotels but it’s more a town you would visit for an afternoon rather than stay in. Beside the terminal, there’s a local food market every day from mid-afternoon until late in the evening. Along what is known as the ‘middle road’ there’re old teak shop-houses and small businesses and a ‘Walking Street’ on Saturdays. And on the one-way road that goes through the town there’re dozens of shops and restaurants. Just off the main road there’s an ornate Chinese temple and garden in Soi 4. And near the far end there’s a renowned open-air duck restaurant – just follow the crowds around lunchtime.

Bo Phut

Bo Phut is best known for Fisherman’s Village. It’s a single narrow street that still has authentic wooden houses that Samui folk have lived in for generations. Parts of it have been modernized but it’s still awash with local foods, international restaurants, bars, shops and market stalls. It becomes one huge ‘Walking Street’ every Friday and you’ll find lots of local delicacies that few other restaurants have. Along with small hotels, there’re several 5-star luxury resorts at the far end and the beach curves around a large bay that also overlooks Koh Pha-Ngan.

And small speedboats leave from the village pier heading for the Full Moon parties that take place there every month.

Big Buddha and Plai Laem

The magnificent golden Big Buddha statue that watches over the island from the north-east corner of Samui is one of the first things you see as you fly into Samui Airport. Built on a tiny island (Koh Farn) with a connecting causeway, it’s the most iconic image of the island. Many Thais pray at the temple so dressing and acting appropriately is expected when you enter the site. There’re some very good Thai restaurants and small stores around the temple. It also affords some beautiful views and along the road from it you’ll see another large Buddha image at Wat Plai Laem. Half-way along the road between the temples is a side road that cuts through to Choeng Mon. Down this road there’s access to some quiet secluded beaches, although some of them are through resorts.

Choeng Mon

Choeng Mon lies just 15 minutes or so from the middle of Chaweng but it seems like worlds away. There’s a small town that the road runs through with a couple of dozen restaurants and bars. The beach is a favourite for many locals as it’s quiet, picturesque and safe for swimming most of the year round. There’s every class of accommodation with some old-style beach bungalows at one end. And they all overlook the tiny deserted island of Koh Farn Noi which you can walk out to if the tide is low.

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Bang Rak

In between Fisherman’s Village and Big Buddha is where you’ll find Bang Rak. There’s a few very good resorts and some private villas for rent along the beachfront that stretches around for several kilometres and has stunning views.

Bars and restaurants line the main street and there’re two piers. The one nearest to Big Buddha has daily ferries to Koh Pha-Ngan, Koh Tao and on to the mainland port of Chumpon, from which a VIP bus takes passengers to Hua Hin and on to Bangkok. Start to finish, it’s a 12-hour journey with about half of it on the boat.

Just beside the ferry terminal in Bang Rak is one of the busiest fish markets on the island. Local fishermen drop their catches here and the place is bustling with people all day long. At the other end of town there’s a short-cut into Chaweng on a road called Soi Bond Kai (which the locals refer to as the ‘Ghost Road’).

Taling Ngam and Lipa Noi

The south-west part of the island is known as the ‘Virgin Coast’. It’s largely unspoiled with lots of secluded bays, although most of the shoreline tends to be rocky. The west coast overlooks the famous ‘five islands’ and some of the closer islands of the Angthong National Marine Park (which is a perfect getaway for a day’s boat trip excursion). In this part of the island there’re some hotels, private villas for rent, up-market and local restaurants and several temples of note, including two that house a mummified monk. A second car ferry terminal is located in Lipa Noi and, like the one in Nathon, boats to and from Donsak on the mainland arrive and depart every hour from 5:00 am until 6:00 pm (check for details). And inland on the island’s main ring-road there’re several large waterfall sites and a safari park with elephant trekking, animal shows and adventure tours. Further along, next to the Ford and Mazda dealers is a new Butterfly and Insect Kingdom Park.

16 l www.samuiholiday.com

Hua Thanon

This predominately muslim village is home to the descendants of some of the island’s earliest settlers. There’s still a thriving fishing fleet and fish market and a natural coastline that’s survived the ravages of time. Just after the village (coming from Lamai) you can turn off the ring-road to the left and signs will direct you to the nearby Tiger Zoo, Aquarium and Sea-life Show, the Butterfly Farm, the Snake Farm and the local Rum Distillery.

Thong Krut

With its brightly coloured fishing boats and backdrop of small islands to the one side, and coconut plantations to the other, Thong Krut is a picturesque little village.

Located in the southwest corner of the island, this is where you’ll come if you’re after a long-tail boat to take you to the nearby islands of Koh Tan and Koh Matsum.

Lining the shore you’ll find a selection of simple restaurants offering Thai food, and particularly good seafood, as well as tour operators offering trips to the islands.

The Interior

Samui predominately consists of hills, mountains and coconut plantations. And few visitors make the time to appreciate its hidden beauty. One way to do so is to take the turning into Mae Nam Soi 1. A new road has recently been constructed that goes over the mountains all the way to Lamai. The drive is only about 20-25 minutes over 15 kilometres with a couple of stopping off areas that offer fabulous views. Another way to really get the full picture of Samui is from Tar Nim’s Magic Garden at the top of one of the island’s highest peaks. Built during a 25-year period by a local farmer the stone statues in the garden were sculpted by hand and sit over 2,000 feet above the beaches below.

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A DAY AT THE

BEACH The sights, the sounds and the smells of Chaweng Beach.

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22 l www.samuiholiday.com

When you look out across Chaweng Beach, it’s just like you see in the holiday brochures. A long strip of soft, white sand with beautiful blue seas stretching out in front of you. As you look to your left and right you can see rows of sun loungers lined up in front of the various resorts along the coast, and people strolling lazily along the shore, holiday smiles firmly in place.

But let’s face it, Chaweng is not the place you go for peace and quiet.

There is always something to do along this popular section of coastline, and exploring the sights sounds and smells is guaranteed to overload your senses.

Ah, the tropical island sights. Palm trees swaying gently in the breeze; topaz coloured, white crested waves lapping gently on the beach. And as you look out to sea, a few jet skis darting around, splashing up plumes of water behind them. You join a few other holidaymakers walking along the beach and take in more visuals. A little bamboo shack is selling very reasonably priced cocktails. The friendly bartender is shaking but not stirring, and judging from the queue of people waiting, he shakes pretty well. A few chairs have been laid out in front of the bar so you can sit down and take your time with your cocktail. After all, island life can’t be rushed.

As you settle into your deck chair, sipping iced pineapple and coconut bliss, you notice the vendors. They are really easy to spot - they are the only ones on the beach covered from head to toe in long-sleeved shirts, trousers, scarves, hats and even gloves - they aren’t taking any chances being in the sun all day. And who could blame them, it is hot and you do have to be careful. You spray on another layer of SPF50 and relax and close your eyes. You can hear talking and laughter, the jet ski still darting around in the distance, and people are splashing in the waves. You can hear ice in the cocktail mixer behind you and someone saying, “Shopping”?

You open your eyes to find a vendor standing in front of you, a board hanging over her shoulder with what seems to be hundreds of bracelets, necklaces and other jewellery. She is smiling at you and you feel obliged to look but you politely shake your head and say no, and she carries on walking. You lie back and relax after sipping more of your pina colada. The fresh air smells so good, slightly salty and‌ you sniff again ‌ tinged with coconut?

You sit up and sure enough, the couple next to you are making the most of the sun by smothering themselves in coconut oil. Ah, a true tropical island smell.

But there is something else you can smell, delicious grilled chicken. And just upwind from you, another vendor has set up his little kitchen directly on the beach. Lumps of chicken on skewers, basted with sauce and grilled on his little barbecue carried inside a basket - one of two which he carries over his shoulders.

The smell is driving you crazy, so you leave your deck chair and quickly-evaporating drink and head over to buy something.

Barbecued corn, chicken and pork pieces on skewers, fruit, donuts, ice cream and all sorts of goodies are available to buy, so there is certainly no need to go hungry. Walk just a short way up or down Chaweng Beach and you will also pass many little beachside restaurants, either independent or part of the many beach resorts.

24 l www.samuiholiday.com

chef’s dinner specials

Overseeing the culinary team at Hansar Samui, born and raised in Montreal, Canada, Chef Stephen began his culinary career at the famed restaurant Les Halles in Quebec, one of the most outstanding independent restaurants in Canada.

A unique opportunity to be the Private Chef to His Majesty the King of Jordan became a turning point in his career and he spent the next two years catering for the Royal Family.

Stephen spent the next five years at the Lebua at State Tower Bangkok (known as the Dome) and within a few years became the Executive Chef at the Sirocco restaurant.

At our beachfront H Bistro restaurant, Stephen has created a unique epicurean experience for guests where they can appreciate the authentic taste of French Mediterranean Cuisine, in addition to a Thai menu.

Another vendor approaches, this time with table-tennis bats, rubber rings and small rugby balls, but he seems to be targeting the men this time. The vendors are friendly, eager to sell but all understand the word ‘no’, so don’t be afraid to chat with them and admire their goods.

Your drink is finished and you decide to explore further and head down the beach. The holiday spirit is strong here, some children are building something which vaguely resembles a sand castle on the beach, people are playing ball in the sea, and the rest are all sunning themselves in various chairs, sun loungers and deckchairs or sitting on the sand.

Stephen Dion “an epicurean experience one shouldn’t be missed”

Here you will see bodies to die for and bodies that will make you want to die. People in all shapes, sizes and colours, all brought together to enjoy what this lovely beach has to offer. You hear talking, laughing, giggling and suddenly … loud music. Ah, this is a popular spot on the beach. The deep base music throbs as people lounge around the pool or directly in front of the bar itself.

Some have even started dancing on the sand. This place has a huge plot of land and it is made up of a restaurant, a bar, a pool and seaside sun loungers. Judging from how few free loungers there are, this is the place to be.

H Bistro at Hansar Samui 101/27-28 Moo 1, Bophut, Koh Samui +66 77 245 511 www.hansarsamui.com

Walking further along the beach, you discover another bamboo bar serving fruit smoothies. The music you just heard before sounds far away, and now you can hear the waves again. Directly in front of this little bar are a few chairs. You decide it’s time for another drink so you sit down and order your mango smoothie. You lie back and close your eyes and wait for the sea to cool your sandy feet. Listening to the waves and the happy people, smelling the delicious food as vendors walk past, you now understand that Chaweng Beach has a lot more to offer than you originally thought.

Colleen Setchell 26 l www.samuiholiday.com

INTO THE BLUE BEYOND Blue Stars Kayaking offers great day trips to amazing tropical islands.

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Undoubtedly one of the best days out around Samui has to be a trip to the beautiful Angthong National Marine Park. For most people it’s the highlight of their vacation, topping many visitors’ lists of must-see places in the region. The marine park is a collection of over 42 beautiful tropical islands off the west coast of Samui. The chain of rocky islets stretches almost as far down as the mainland. During a trip to the park you will discover hidden lagoons, green islands, an emerald green lake, and mysterious caves. As well as natural wildlife; crab-eating monkeys, small herons, dolphins, otters, and silver-haired bats.

Blue Stars Kayaking is an extremely well-established tour operator on Koh Samui specializing in excursions with sightseeing, snorkelling and kayaking to the marine park. Operating since 1995, they have a vast knowledge of the area and the best places for kayaking or just lazing on a beautiful beach. Your trip begins with a minibus pick-up from your hotel at around 7:15 am to 7:30 am. The minibus will take you to Nathon pier on the northwest coast of Samui, where the 23 metre fully-equipped tour boat is waiting to take you to the marine park.

Leaving Nathon at about 8:00 am, a light breakfast of croissants and tea or coffee is served while the boat steadily makes it way to the park. The trip there takes approximately an hour and a half, but with the wonderful scenery of Samui, Koh Pha-Ngan and the southern tip of the marine park, the time aboard slips by in a pleasant and relaxing manner.

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Although it could carry more, Blue Stars limit the capacity of the boat to 44 people, and once you arrive at the park, the operators have found that it works best to split the tour into two smaller groups. This ensures that everyone will have a good day out, without it being overcrowded.

The first session of kayaking begins upon arrival at the marine park with the first port of call on the trip being the island of Koh Mae Ko which is the main island of the archipelago. The boat will moor at the beach here, and kayaking and snorkelling can be enjoyed in the blue tropical waters.

On this island you can also climb up a ridge to take in the majestic sight of the Emerald Lake, a volcanic crater, edged by sheer rock walls.

After all the morning activities, lunch time is a highlight for many on the tour. The food is delicious and there’s a lot of positive feedback. The lunch is a buffet of three Thai dishes with a salad and rice, but don’t panic if you can’t eat spicy food, it’s all agreeably mild. Lunch is served on the boat while you cruise further north past the stunning scenery of the other smaller islands, including the one made famous by the book ‘The Beach’, Koh Sam Sao. The boat cuts its path through the turquoise waters to the quieter and less visited northern islands of Koh Nai Phut and Koh Tai Plao. No other operators visit this area which is surprising since it offers some fantastic places for kayaking.

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After lunch you can explore the myriad of caves and tunnels in this area, which are truly breath-taking, and paddle under overhanging rock formations. You can also go snorkelling here. With the place pretty much to yourself you can truly soak up the beauty and majesty of these amazing islands. Also keep an eye out for some of the natural inhabitants of this region and you may be lucky and spot a dolphin or whale shark. It’s a great place to go swimming, although it can sometimes be a bit cloudy for snorkelling. Cold drinks and water are freely available throughout the day, so if you tire of all that exercise you can take time out to enjoy a drink while you get back your energy. An afternoon snack of banana muffins is also served, so there’s not much chance of anyone going hungry or thirsty on the tour.

All the equipment, the snorkelling gear, life vests and the high quality Oceanbrand kayaks are included in the price of the tour. Blue Stars also provide waterproof bags for your camera and phone. The only things you need to bring are a beach towel, your swimwear, a change of t-shirts and a little pocket money if you want an ice-cream on the beach at the first stop. After that everything else is taken care of. The company representative on the boat is English and German speaking, and after living on Samui for many years has an extensive knowledge of the marine park.

After an incredible day out the boat will make its way back to Samui at about 3:00 pm, when you can enjoy your afternoon snack and sip at a coffee or tea.

Many people recommend the tour and the company, and often cite the fact that the company offers a trip on a large slow boat and not a speed boat, so the customers feel relaxed and not as though they are being herded from one point to another.

34 l www.samuiholiday.com

And for those who’re concerned that they are not experienced kayakers, then there’s no need to worry. The basics are easy to learn and the staff very helpful.

As one couple said, “We weren’t highly experienced kayakers but didn’t have any issues.”

“Awesome experience”, “brilliant day trip” and “a great day out” are just a few ways in which customers have described their trip with Blue Stars Kayaking. If you’d like to try it out for yourself, have a look at their website and check out the fantastic pictures of the limestone rock formations of the marine park. You can also make a reservation through the website before you arrive on Samui to ensure your place on the trip.

Natalie Hughes _________________________________

For reservations or further information telephone 0 7730 0615 or 0 818 945 032. www.bluestars.info

WINGING YOUR WAY TO HEALTH

38 l www.samuiholiday.com

Natural Wing Health Spa & Resort offers easyto-implement ways to improve your health and well-being.

It’s hard to spot even if you’re right outside Natural Wing, so lush is the greenery, with the entire spa part of one large and beautiful garden - just being there is relaxing! Winner of prestigious awards, most notably the Green Spa Award 2013, and the Gold Thai Spa Award, it’s the friendly and relaxed atmosphere of the place that guests first notice.

Natural Wing is far more than just your average spa, offering what it calls ‘Beyond Spa’. While you’ll find all the usual services of a spa - body scrubs, facials, a steam room and a variety of massage packages, there is also their signature massage, the Siam 10 Senses Massage, using a blend of their own virgin cold-pressed coconut hot oil and herbs. The massage was developed by the Managing Director of the spa, Khun Wanwalee Tantikarn, who is the current president of the Thai Spa Federation. She developed the massage which works on the ten senses of the body, according to the ancient art of Thai massage. Also taking it beyond the usual spa treatments are Natural Wing’s detoxifying and slimming programmes which are available for their in-house guests.

Programmes range from three to 30 days in length, with the most popular being the seven day detox programme. The concept behind the programmes is to improve both the body and the mind, and to leave the spa with the tools and knowledge that will enable you to continue enjoying a healthy lifestyle.

All the programmes include accommodation, and whichever detox you choose, it starts with a blood test to check the current state of your health. The results are analysed by a medical doctor and are then related to the guest by Khun Wanvanat Kongcharoen, the assistant managing director of the spa, who oversees the programme. All these consultations are one-on-one as the privacy of the guests is of utmost importance. The programme can then be geared to the areas that need improvement. For example, high cholesterol and blood sugar levels are typical concerns at the beginning of the treatment.

Every morning starts at 7:00 am with Yoga and Qigong on the beach, under the experienced and expert instruction of qualified trainer, Khun Supaporn. Pilates classes are also available in the mornings. Afterwards, guests can enjoy a light and healthy breakfast, while sipping Rangjurd, a detoxifying Thai herbal tea.

Next comes some relaxing and rejuvenating chlorophyll sunbathing. Natural Wing was the first resort on the island to start this treatment. It’s a blend of Thai traditional spa wisdom and modern day medical knowledge. Guests are covered in hot virgin coconut oil and then banana leaves are placed on the skin while they soak up the rays of the sun. The heating of the body in this way triggers and improves the immune system.

Afternoon activities include a massage of the guest’s choice and hydro aerobics.

There’s also a gym available. Of course in the afternoon there’s free time when guests may choose to sit round the pool, read, relax on beautiful Bang Por Beach or simply go back to their room. From 4:00 pm to 5:00 pm you’ll find sand therapy on the beach; fine sand is blended with Thai herbs to promote the softening of the skin and improve circulation.

Evenings are spent in walking meditation led by Khun Supaporn. Some days, though not every day, guests have coffee enemas. Lectures are also held in the evenings on topics for leading a healthy life. The day ends with each guest’s blood pressure being measured and recorded.

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On the last day of the programme the guests will once again have a blood test, and the results will be given in a private meeting with the programme consultant. Improvements in general physical health are seen as well as a healing of the mind as guests unwind from their everyday stress. But the improvement doesn’t end there – Natural Wing is dedicated to the wellbeing of all its guests long after they have left the resort. During the detox programme each guest is given the tools to continue their path on a healthy lifestyle once they arrive back home. Cooking lessons are also given so that guests may continue to eat and cook healthily after the programme’s finished.

Natural Café is where everyone dines on healthy and delicious Thai and Vietnamese meals. The detox salad is particularly recommended as is the Panang Chicken with coconut rice and the Charcoal Grilled Pork with Thai Herb wrap. Naturally no MSG is used in the cooking, and many of the herbs used are grown in the resort’s own garden. These same herbs are also used in the massages and in the Thai herbal steam. When it comes to drinks, guests are spoiled with some truly delicious concoctions. Upon arrival everyone is served a welcome drink, called Herbal Bliss. It’s a combination of ginger and tamarind, with spicy notes and a wonderful sourness. The spa also offers a rather special drink that they call the Magic Potion, a blend of butterfly pea juice and lime topped with soda. It’s a delight for both the eye and the taste buds.

And Khun Wanwalee Tantikarn says it’s their hope that Natural Wing’s will be a home for all those who wish to embark on a healthy lifestyle, focussing both on the body and the mind. In its lush gardens you’ll find a sense of peacefulness, and in the detox programmes lasting benefits that will stand you in good stead once your holiday on Samui is over. By the way, if the spa sounds as if it’s set right in the heart of impenetrable jungle, this isn’t the case at all. You’ll find it on a quiet stretch of the ring-road, five minutes outside Maenam as you head to Nathon. Look for signs on the left shortly after you’ve passed The Sea Resort.

Natural Wing is as easily accessible as the programmes and treatments it offers and your body is sure to thank you for the time you have spent here.

Natalie Hughes

____________________________________________________________ For reservations or further information telephone 0 7760 2111-2. www.naturalwing.com

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BOUTIQUE RESORT KOH SAMUI

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THE R E S TA U R A N T

Pavilion presents the best in Samui Boutique Resort dining.

The Patio Restaurant serves authentic Italian and Thai delicacies.

Experience a romantic meal with outstanding sea views.

The Look-Out Bar is the ideal place to unwind with a drink by our beach side pool.

Wedding on the Beach Experience the most special day of your life in romantic tropical surroundings at Pavilion Samui Boutique Resort.

Select from our Western, Thai and Chinese wedding options.

Let us tailor make a celebration for you or choose one of our wedding packages.

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Lamai Beach, Koh Samui Tel: 0 7742 4420, 0 7742 4030 Fax: 0 7742 4029 www.samuiholiday.com info@pavilionsamui.com www.pavilionsamui.com

Serving an exciting variety of Thai, Italian and seafood from our open, show kitchen with genuine pizza oven.

Choose from open air seating on the first floor with ocean view or air-conditioned seating on the ground floor.

Live music every night.

Open daily from 12 noon till 11 pm Located on Lamai Beach Road opposite Pavilion Samui Boutique Resort www.samuiholiday.com l 43 Reservation: 077 424 420

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TREKKING OUT Cutting through the confusion of trips, treks and elephants – at Baan Chang, Living Thailand Tours.

“I really have no idea about the other elephant trekking places – we don’t have any connection with them. And the majority of our business comes through outside agents. But I do know what these agents have told me. They have said that they get to see all the other places. And one thing they say to us is that our elephants are happy elephants. The other thing is that we have fat elephants, compared to other places. Many other elephants have the skin hanging off them in folds. But then, we’ve had some of our elephants now for 20 years. We were the first elephant trekking business on the island. How could any of us not get to know them like they were our children and, worse, ever think of treating them badly?” So said Khun Noi, overseer and manager at Living Thailand Tours.

Let’s come back to that in a moment. In the meantime, here’s a problem for you to solve. How many elephant trekking companies are there on Samui? Answer – there’s five, including one near Big C hypermarket! And if that sounds too much like urban elephanting, there’s another not that far from Fisherman’s Village in Bophut, too. Next question – how many names can you find for elephant treks on Samui? And the reply to that one is . . . a heck of a lot more than five. Some elephant companies are marketed and sold under the agent’s name as well as their own. Some companies are also wrapped up as part of a package tour that includes another four or five activities and, again, packaged under a different name. It’s really quite confusing.

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Plus there’s another thing to be aware of, too. This is Samui. We’re a little tourist island that’s around 50 kilometres wide, from coast to coast. Up in the north of Thailand, where there are tens of thousands of square kilometres of virgin jungle, you can head off on an elephant trek which lasts three days, fording rivers, forcing your way through the undergrowth and camping out in the jungle at night. Here on Samui, the shortest trip is 15 minutes out and 15 minutes back again, on a wide and well-worn path between the coconut trees. So be prepared!

Having said that, it’s really very pleasant indeed. Well, it can be, if you go with the right company. Like many things here, when folks are chasing the tourist dollar there are some places that are lacking in, shall we say . . . integrity. But not at Living Thailand Tours. Khun Kongsak Chanpuang – better known by his nickname, Khun Add – is a very pleasant and sincere man who brought the first elephants to the island over 20 years ago. Today he has eight of them, all of which are treated with the gentle courtesy and respect they deserve. They’re all based in a delightfully landscaped little estate that’s accessed from right on the main ring-road, directly opposite Wat Khunaram, the temple where you’ll find the somewhat hip ‘mummified monk’. And if it’s any measure of Khun Add’s dedication and integrity, he and his family all live in a very nice house that’s part of the overall estate.

Victoria is an elephant. A large, very clean, and somewhat plump elephant. And as Khun Noi took me over to say hello, she (Victoria, not Noi) swung her head placidly and reached out to give me a friendly sniff. And then – she winked at me! “Her real name is actually Boonhai,” Khun Noi continued. “All our elephants

have Thai names, but we give them ‘farang’ names too, because it’s easier for the tourists to relate to them. She’s 45 years old now and has been with us ever since we moved here.”

Still recovering from the unique experience of having been come on to by an elephant, I almost missed what she was saying next. “Each of them has their own ‘boy’ who stays with them all the time. Khun Dia is paired with Victoria, and he has been with her for about eight years now.” And this is just another small touch that’s symptomatic of the care with which these elephants are treated.

Towards the back of the compound, there’s a tall thatched structure that rather looks like it should have a slide attached, like on a kiddie’s playground. Only in this case the platform at the top is at elephant height and you’ll slide onto the back of an elephant instead. And around the elephant yard there are lots of bananas and troughs of water – an element which is sadly lacking with some of the other trekking companies.

Incidentally, the name above this ‘elephant slide’ is ‘Baan Chang’, meaning simply ‘house for elephant’ in Thai. And that’s also the other name by which this trekking company is known, so look out for it, too. Another big plus is that that the elephant treks here are actually out in a thick and lush part of the jungle.

However, you’ll also see Living Thailand Tours associated with other packages.

They run one called ‘E-co Samui’ which includes an elephant trek, then returns to allow you to experience the rigors of making a curry paste, followed by going out to the monkey show in Hua Thanon. This is followed by a stop to see some very skilled craftwork with items made from coconut wood, and the processes of stripping the coconuts for their raw materials. And then up to the

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restaurant at Namuang waterfall to finish it off. Plus they also run another trip which additionally takes in the mummified monk and the utterly wonderful Magic Garden – but this last one is a whole story in its own right.

It’s all very well organised, and most folks staying on the island opt for the convenience of booking either through an agent or via their hotel, from which you’ll be picked up and then returned to afterwards. But it’s another measure of this company’s attitude that, if it’s raining on the day you’ve booked, you can postpone your trip for a day or so, or else get a full refund. Remember the name: Living Thailand Tours. This is one company that loves and respects its elephants.

Rob De Wet

___________________________________________________________________ For bookings or further information, telephone 0 7723 2419 or 0 7723 3019.

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New Branch Grand Opening at The Wharf Samui

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ONE STEP AT A TIME Leave your youngsters with confidence in a UK-quality nursery – at Tiny Steps.

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At one time people just used to come here on holiday. But this began to change. Everyone loves Samui. It sticks in your mind – gets under your skin. And so more people came here to live. Some were older, retiring to the island. But a great many people came here to work, and they came with their kids. True, mostly these children were older. But every year more and more people came with babies or toddlers. The problem was apparent right away – until only quite recently, there was no day-care on the island.

But today there’s a lot! At the last count there appears to be around eight day-care centres, kindergartens, nurseries – call them what you will. So, there you go, problem solved. Well . . . not exactly. Ask any parent with young children, and they’ll tell you that choosing the right nursery can be a real headache. It’s not simply a question of convenience - finding the nearest place to look after your little ones for an hour or two. Parents need confidence. Their children are precious. They need to be sure their children are safe and being treated with care and love. And that’s exactly the reason why, when you balance everything out, so many people wouldn’t go anywhere else but Tiny Steps.

Imagine a thriving day-care centre in the UK – or any other European country for that matter. Then try to take on board all the regulations and laws that have to be satisfied. Standards of health and safety.

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mainstream schooling at the age of five. And that’s all before the doors can be opened to the public, never mind the staff, or the personalities involved with the school, or the overall ethos and atmosphere!

“Tiny Steps is a duplicate of a nursery school that you would find in the UK,” said Debra Hardcastle, owner, director and teacher at Tiny Steps. “That’s what we modelled it on. It took us three years to design the buildings, blueprinted on UK standards of building regulation and quality. The land, the buildings, the layout and design, the double-gated car park and entrance – all of it was designed and purpose-built from the ground-up to be a secure and safe place of love and warmth, where young children could spend their time being cared for and stimulated. To say it’s my passion is to speak in clichés. It’s my life. It’s what I do and it’s all I do. And when I start to talk about my feelings about it and my love for the children, I get goose bumps!” (And yes – she really does.)

When I first started interviewing Debra, she came across as just a teensy bit nervous – not too sure of what I was going to ask and how to best project herself . . . a very pleasant and competent person, with a great many things to organise and oversee. But when she started talking about the children and her role and her interaction with them, then she suddenly lit up as if somebody had thrown a switch – it’s true to say that she started glowing.

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Her words started to flow, with a wealth of information and detail that is only touched upon in her published text on the website and Facebook pages. Suddenly I understood why both the parents and the children love and trust her so much. Because this is the Debra that they see every day – someone who is simply radiating happiness, contentment and love. If Debra had made her nursery in a hole in the ground, under a rock up the mountain, my guess is that she would still be full and have a waiting list of hopeful parents.

Coming back down to earth, it’s time for some clear solid facts. Tiny Steps teaches EFL (English as a Foreign Language) and uses ‘Jolly Phonics’ to help children with their reading and writing skills – knitting into the same structure which is used by established Samui primary schools. The ‘British Early Years Foundation Stage Curriculum’ (EYFS) is followed, and there’s a UK-qualified EYFS teacher leading the preschool class for children aged three to six years. From day one, all children are provided with a routine, which both gives them security, and also establishes a comforting framework (example: go to the toilet, wash hands; before eating, wash hands; after eating, clean teeth). And all activities, whether based on a curriculum-structure or simply on common sense, are cored to develop and promote listening skills, attention span, comprehension and considered response. Everything that happens here at Tiny Steps is a part of a larger scheme to nurture, extend, and develop the child’s physical, emotional, intellectual and social development skills – even though to a casual observer it might only look like the kids are just happy and having a fun time. Appearances can be deceptive!

The building is an object lesson in what a nursery should be like. From the cloakroom, to the bathroom, to all the different areas – eating, napping, playing, learning – it’s a delight to see and admire. No wonder it all took three years to put together. And every morning the staff (led by Debra) spend the hour before the kids arrive cleaning and sanitising the entire place, from toilets to teddies, from the tables to the TV. Oh – I forgot to mention that there’s also a full-time chef in the separate kitchen, and the catering is simply superb.

Once Debra has been triggered, (goose bumps etc.) then it’s probably best to let her run, she’s not only an expert but she tells it better than I can! “I’ve heard all sorts of stories about separation-stress,” she wound things up with. “It’s the usual thing where very young children have to be separated from their parents. They get upset and fret. But here they quite 54 l www.samuiholiday.com

often start crying when they have to leave!” Enough said. Check the website, then go and talk to Debra. But my impression is that you had better do this fast – for some reason there’s already a waiting list at Tiny Steps!

Rob De Wet

_______________________________________________________ To make an appointment to talk to Debra, call 0 828 029 034. www.samuitinysteps.com

HAND-MADE JEWELRY MADE TO ORDER. GOLD, SILVER, LEATHER, PRECIOUS AND SEMI PRECIOUS STONES. TWO LOCATIONS IN CHAWENG: 1ST: CHAWENG BEACH ROAD, PHONE: +(66)0 7742 2594 2ND: CENTRAL FESTIVAL SAMUI 2ND FLOOR, PHONE: +(66)0 7796 3811 WWW.THAILAND-JEWELRY.COM

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SEASONS

IN THE SUN A brief look at Samui’s climate.

It’s why you’ve come here. To enjoy hot, sunny days and swim in warm seas.

And to get away from the grey skies back home. But when exactly is the best time to visit? And what should you pack?

Samui has probably some of the best weather in Thailand, it being neither unbearably hot nor too cold. It’s a tropical climate however, so that also includes rainfall and during the rainy season there can be a lot of it.

Temperatures all year typically vary only from 25°C to 33°C. So while in Bangkok and Chiang Mai visitors will be suffering 40°C weather during the hot season it won’t reach such peaks here. In fact, you may be surprised to learn that the highest recorded temperature for Samui is 36.5°C.

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Some foreigners jokingly refer to the three seasons of Thailand; yes, Thailand has only three seasons not four, and people speak of the ‘hot season, the even hotter season and the hot and wet season.’ Samui also has just 3 seasons, but since the region has something of a microclimate, they can be more correctly called the dry season, the rainy season and the hot season.

So when is the best time to visit the island? The dry season is roughly from December until the end of February and during this time you may experience a few rain storms but these generally last for only an hour or two at the most, and then you’re back to enjoying the wonderful sunshine and the refreshed sense that the rain has brought. For those of you who enjoy swimming in the sea, the maritime conditions at this time are quite calm with gentle breezes to cool things down on the beach. If you are

worried about protection from the harmful rays of the sun, then this is a great time of the year to be on the beach. This doesn’t mean you should leave your sun protection at home, though; you will still need it along with a sunhat and sunglasses. Coming as it does during Christmas and the turn of the year, it’s also a great way to celebrate the festivities.

After the cool start to the year things start to heat up, quite literally, in March, with a rapid rise in temperatures. April and May are the hottest months on Samui, and if you’re not the kind the kind of person who tolerates the heat very well its best to postpone your visit until later in the year. It’s in April that Thai school children have their summer holidays.

It really is too hot for them to spend their days in sweltering, stuffy classrooms. So many Thais also take their holidays at this time of year.

It is generally dry most days during this period with a few light afternoon

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showers, especially in May, to cool things off a little bit. But you can always take shelter under the eaves of the hotel pool-side bar, or sit it out in one of the many cafes dotted around the island. This is a great time of year to visit Samui, the calm waters are perfect for swimming and it’s just great time to laze on the beach with a good book. But, as always, you’re still going to need that sun protection.

Samui starts to wind down with the rainy season which is generally about four weeks long, and coincides with the month of November, though it can start early and finish late. It’s rarely that bad here, there have only been two years that there was such torrential rain that the island was seriously flooded, and a lot of that was caused by poor road drainage, which has since been mostly rectified. Most years the rainy season means comfortable temperatures and a few days of continual rain in a row. It may not be everyone’s choice to come at this time of year and if you truly want a break from miserable weather a home you may be lucky and have good weather. It’s a risk, but one that many people are willing to take as they enjoy the cheaper prices that the low season offers and the quieter streets. This time of year next to your sun protection you’ll need to buy a plastic poncho that you can get from just about any convenience store. But it is something to bear in mind that one main attraction off the coast of Samui, The Angthong National Marine Park is closed each year between November and mid-December. It’s also not the best time to be out and about on a motorbike. Apart from poor visibility in the rain, once the skies have cleared, you’ll see that there are swathes of mud and sand in places on the roads, caused by run-off.

The rains during this time however are welcomed by the locals as a respite from the heat of the rest of the year. The whole island benefits from the showers. The flora and fauna thrive, wells fill up to the 60 l www.samuiholiday.com

maximum, and the waterfalls come back to life. So this is a time for renewal as it were. The green of the island takes on an intensity of colour and freshness. And you never know what will happen. One year I was walking down the main street in Nathon during a flash flood, when a large fish went casually swimming by!

However, people on Samui say that over the last few years, they’ve been witnessing that the seasons are no longer quite so predictable.

For example, two years ago, freakish rains flooded the island and neighbouring parts of the mainland. And this was at a time when it was supposed to be sunny and dry. Similarly, in 2002, there was virtually no rainy season at all – just endless sun.

But no matter, Samui is still one of the best climates to live in: an enormous amount of sunshine and – especially when you consider its tropical location – relatively few days of continuous cloud and rain.

So when is the best time to visit? Well that’s up to you. But whenever you decide to come you’ll be guaranteed to have fun. In the sun or in the rain, Samui’s synonymous with pleasure.

Natalie Hughes

BRANCH 1 CHAWENG BEACH ROAD OPPOSITE SPAGO RESTAURANT

TEL: +66 831715733

BRANCH 2 CHAWENG BEACH ROAD NEXT TO CENTRAL FESTIVAL

WWW.MSCARINO.COM

BRANCH 3 THE WHARF SAMUI FISHERMAN’S VILLAGE

WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/MSCARINOO www.samuiholiday.com

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A BALL AT THE MALL

Central Festival Samui is all about having a relaxed time – whether you go shopping or not.

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Last year saw a new mall go up with the most incredible speed – it seemed to be ready before many people were aware of it, and ever since its doors opened, it’s been increasing in popularity. Everyone seems to like it, whether they are locals or holidaymakers. A lot more than the sum of its parts, in this article we take a look at what makes Central Festival Samui work so well.

Firstly though, you may ask why there’s a mall here at all. After all, it might seem a bit odd to have a modern, sophisticated mall on a tropical island. But it actually fits in very well with Samui’s laid-back vibe. For a start, the entire space is open air. Many malls, even in Asia, are mostly enclosed, and large as they might be, shopping in them is an indoor experience. It’s almost certain that on Samui you won’t want to waste time indoors, since the weather’s mostly sunny. So even if you spend a good few hours at Central Festival, you won’t emerge with the feeling you’ve spent too long under strip lighting, and have acquired an unhealthy pallor. It’s definitely got that island, holiday feel to it.

The mall was designed and built by CPN Property Development & Investment, a company that has quite a few big projects under its belt.

They’ve built a number of malls throughout the country, all with the hallmark word ‘Central’ in their names. So look out for them when you’re travelling around Thailand. Since the company is so experienced, other developers tend to look at them to see how their approach works. And work it certainly does.

brick. That’s because it’s been designed with relaxation in mind. It’s a commercial place, of course, but one that’s low-key, and is therefore all the more pleasant.

You’ll find the mall is quite a green place, literally, with whole trees growing in certain places. There’s even a maze in its centre, with hedges forming its walls. It’s easy to solve but an unexpected addition to a mall when was the last time you saw a maze while shopping?

The mall’s success is partly due to its prime location, right in the heart of Chaweng, where it’s naturally going to draw shoppers and those wanting a respite from the sun. Although you cannot actually see the sea from the mall, it’s close by – just a five minute walk away. It’s therefore ideal for anyone who’s been swimming and wants a break from the endless heat. It’s equally attractive for shoppers who have been walking along the beach road (it goes on for kilometres) in search of souvenirs, clothing and a meal. Once inside the mall, you can get a pretty good idea of what’s on offer just by looking around without any need to walk a long way.

It’s spacious, too, with walkways all being wide and giving the entire place an uncluttered, untrafficked feel. And for those who live on Samui, it’s one of the few places where you can actually go shopping without having to worry about cars and motorbikes.

But the location is only part of Central Festival’s recipe for success.

The mall seems to exude a certain relaxed feel from its every joist and

Parking a car – and sometimes even a motorbike – can be quite hard at times in Chaweng, where every single square inch seems to be put to use. But at Central Festival you can just drive your car into the massive basement parking area and leave it in the knowledge that it’s going to be safe. And just as good, parking is free – you won’t even have to make a minimum purchase.

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THE SIAM RESIDENCE B o u t i q u e

R e s o r t

Phone: +66 (0) 77 420 008 | samui@siamresidence.com www.siamresidence.com

Your Private Holidays in Samui Located at the beach of Lipa Noi, the Siam Residence is nestled in a tropical garden. Created to provide the very best of Thai hospitality, this small luxury retreat incorporates luxurious accommodation, attentive service and excellent cuisine in an atmosphere of calm and seclusion.

Enjoy our 1 or 2 bedroom luxury villas with separate living room, marble bath, two toilets, free wireless internet access.

The mall is open from 11:00 am until 11:00 pm, and on the ground floor you’ll find an international supermarket, a bookstore and stationery shop, a computer and mobile phone store, stalls selling souvenirs and accessories and plenty of places to eat and drink. Clothing is well-represented, with a gamut of attire ranging through tropical casual to edgy, urban designs at hypertrendy Psylo. There’s also a small area for children to play in – it’s immensely popular with its rope climbing-frame, slides and swingchairs. As with everywhere on Samui, children are always made welcome and they certainly seem to enjoy coming.

Unlike a lot of malls, you won’t find that the upper floor here is a semi-deserted zone occupied by the less visited shops. Escalators and lifts bring you to the upper level as well as staircases. Here you’ll find thriving restaurants and beautifully designed shops such as Nature Art Gallery, with its selections of semi-precious stones, jewellery and accessories. There’s also the irrepressible XD Theater, which guarantees adrenalin pumping excitement virtualreality style, as well as their Haunted House (very, very scary).

Meanwhile, ranging over both floors, you’ll find Central’s own department store offering a plethora of goods, clothes and the island’s most extensive selection of children’s toys and clothing.

When it comes to food, be prepared to be spoiled for choice. A food court with numerous outlets awaits you, with dishes ranging from popular Indian treats, to Thai to international. Then there are the restaurants themselves and gastro bars – over 20 to choose

from. You can opt for classical Thai, Japanese (three different restaurants), then international fare which includes steak, sea food, pizzas and pasta, barbecues and hot pot. If you just need a snack or dessert, there are sandwiches a-plenty, along with pretzels, ice-creams, doughnuts and very yummy cakes.

Want a coffee? No problem – again there’s plenty of choice, with premium lattes, cappuccinos and ice coffees from Black Canyon and The Coffee Club.

A few hours at Central Festival will quickly go by, and will leave you feeling that you’ve just indulged in some well-spent leisure time, regardless of any shopping you might have done.

You’ll probably wish there were more malls like this back at home, where leisure not commerce, takes priority.

Dimitri Waring

The Ridge is an exclusive luxury development of private pool villas with panoramic sea views located in the prime North East of Koh Samui, just minutes from the island’s most popular beaches and entertainment areas.

Designed by David McCormick, a renowned international architect, each villa provides the perfect blend of “contemporary tropical living”. Each villa is also designed to meet the dual requirements as a luxury vacation residence and successful luxury villa rental property.

Sunbathe on the expansive terrace, take a cool dip in the infinity pool, relax in the integrated Jacuzzi and dine under the stars. Breathe fresh air, get away from it all and escape from the city in style…

HEAVENLY HEIGHTS Gaze down like a god at the breath-taking views from Narai Kiri.

We’ve come a long way from the wooden huts and the hippies of the ’80s. The hippies have morphed into backpackers. And today there’s now a whole new breed of young and moneyed ‘techpackers’. These are the people who travel with iPads, tablets and smartphones, plus a couple of credit cards for luck. They seek Wi-Fi, not marijuana. Today they’re touring about, making the most of being young, and taking it all in.

However, these are the same people who, in a few years’ time, will be earning big money. They’ll be coming here with their children.

There are only two places on the island where people want to buy land or property. If you’re a rockstar or the dictator of a small developing nation, it’ll be on the beach. But for most of the rest of us, the call of the heights is hard to ignore. Every year our green hills mountainsides are studded with more white dots. Of course, it’s a lot cheaper to build something half way up. But the prime pinnacles are the best. They’re

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where everyone wants to be. Way up high, with a view like a god.

There are not so many places like this; they are highly sought-after. And one of the most impressive to date is Narai Kiri.

Actually, it’s a little confusing, because Narai Kiri is actually two things at the same time! Let’s explain. Firstly, the group name of one ambitious group development in four locations, ‘The Narai Kiri Project’, has three different developments close together in the hills above Bophut, plus another one up at the north-eastern tip of the island at Plai Laem. Here, the development is known as ‘The Royal Holdings Project’. In Bophut, the scheme that’s the closest to the coast is ‘Hill Top Villas’. A little more elevated, and close by, is the ‘Hillside Project’. And then in prime position, with sweeping views and a panorama of almost 270 degrees is ‘Nara Kiri’ itself.

As a buyer, you actually have a lot of choice here. Basic land plots, with all amenities in place, are available for you to build your own holiday home, and there are further choices when you come to do this – either do-it-yourself or consult with the project manager to build on your behalf.

And, as a spin-off from all of this, currently you’ll findthat quite a number of the villas which have already been built are available to buy or rent.

from a short holiday break – an utterly different experience. Even just paying your electricity bill can be a traumatic trip into uncharted territory; you can’t read the language, nor can you mail a cheque or use your credit card, as you’d normally do. People in the past have had mini breakdowns over the sudden culture shock. And that’s where Khun Pinyo comes into the story.

What they all have in common, however, are the breath-taking views.

And, of course, the location and scenery is what you’re attracted by. If you are looking for an outstanding place to buy, it’s so tempting to jump in and grab it. But this is where you need to dig deeper. You need to look at the contract, the maintenance, the support system in place and the services included. The smaller writing on the contract. The details.

And, most happily, with The Narai Kiri Project, these are comprehensive and sound. Actually coming to live in Thailand is like chalk and cheese

Khun Pinyo Khumprom (nicknamed Khun Yo) was born here, and his family have been here for as long as anyone can remember. This might not seem important with so many other details to think about. But you have to remember that our rapidly expanding island has attracted many Bangkok-based investors and speculators. They’ll often throw money at a project and head back home to Bangkok, leaving a not-so-well-paid manager to half-heartedly oversee things. Khun Yo is educated, mature, well-travelled, cosmopolitan, and in charge! He lives here. It’s his (and

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his family’s) good name on the line if things don’t run smoothly. He’s the project manager for the entire Narai Kiri Project, and it was his baby right from the start. v Unlike many local entrepreneurs, his aim isn’t to cut costs, get a quick turnover and move on. He delights in designing quality villa projects; it’s his passion. He works closely together with established award-winning European designers and architects and engages the services of Thai craftsmen to create a contemporary synthesis of clean, light, modern style flavoured with Thai traditional elements. And the result of all of this is that, as mentioned, you have a choice of buying a plot to build on, buying a villa that’s already been constructed, or renting one of the existing villas.

And this is again where the sound organisation of the whole scheme comes into play. As an owner, you need to be completely assured that your investment is being properly maintained and managed while you are away. And as someone looking to rent a top-quality villa, you need to know that you’ll have readily accessible help with all the day-today things like cleaning, reliable vehicle rental with comprehensive insurance, what excursion to go out on – even things like yacht charter are available if you need it. In fact, just about anything is possible at the Narai Kiri Project. An onsite caterer or chef for a special event? A DJ? Even Thai cooking lessons can be arranged if that’s your wish.

At one time, you had to make a decision whether to rent a hut with running water or go for a cheaper one without water at all. Times have changed. But some things stay the same. And one of these is that everyone loves Samui. The difference being that today you can stay here in luxury like a god – and with a view from the heavenly heights to match!

Rob De Wet

____________________________________________________________ For further information, telephone Khun Pinyo on 0 815 373 088. www.naraikiri.com

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ALL THAI-ED UP! With therapists ‘bending’ their clients into positions resembling a pretzel at times, what exactly is Thai massage all about?

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It’s not something you’ll see every day in London, New York or Berlin. But on the streets of Samui and the rest of Thailand, glass-fronted shops reveal rows of lazy-boy chairs, holding tourists with trousers rolled up, lulled into a semi-conscious state as their feet are being prodded and rubbed.

Beyond that, low, padded mats contain yet more tourists, this time getting the full force of a traditional Thai massage. If you’ve never experienced Thai massage before, it can be a little daunting, as it’s completely different to Western-style massages.

So what exactly is Thai massage? Well, it blends styles from Asian neighbours, including India and China, passed down through the generations. Unlike the kneading and continuous strokes of Western massage, the Thai method uses pressure points, muscle stretching and compression, done in a rhythmic movement of gentle rocking. In Thai massage the therapist uses not just her hands to free tension from your body, but also her feet, forearms, knees, and elbows too.

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The holistic benefits of Thai massage (known locally as Nuad Bo-Rarn or ancient massage) include relaxation and heightened awareness. It frees blockages in energy flow, invigorates the nervous system, relieves pain and muscle tension and improves circulation. The techniques also increase flexibility by way of the passive yoga postures used, and give a general feeling of wellbeing, helping to balance body, mind and spirit.

Thai medical massage can move deeper into the mechanical functions of the body, working with deep muscle tension and joint mobility as well as nerve, muscle and ligament balancing. Which means that it can be particularly helpful in relieving headaches, arthritis, whiplash pain, numbness, back pain and other conditions.

Sound like something you want to try? Well, here’s what to expect whether you go to a beach or a fancy spa for your treatment. Thai massage is usually done on a padded mat on the floor. No oil is applied, so you are fully dressed. You’re usually asked to wear comfortable clothing to the massage, or sometimes the spa provides fisherman’s pants and a loose top to wear. Thai massage is more energising and rigorous than other forms of massage. If you’re flexible, you’ll find it relaxing – if not, your first treatment can be a little painful the next day as muscles are stretched more than they’re used to.

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A typical Thai massage lasts one to two hours. Once dressed appropriately, you will be invited to lie down on the mat or bed and the massage will begin, starting with your feet and working towards your head. While undergoing a massage, try to relax as much as possible.

Work with your masseuse by synchronising your breathing with the rhythm of the massage. For example, when she stretches a part of you, inhale as she does, then exhale as she relaxes the tension.

Although things are a little more laid back with a beach massage, there are a few things to keep in mind no matter where you go for your massage. Don’t eat a heavy meal before the massage and be sure to let your therapist know if you have any medical conditions, particularly back and neck problems or recent fractures. Pregnant women should check with their doctors first before getting a massage, and it’s not advisable to have one soon after surgery. Some Thai massage therapists are certified in pregnancy massage, so expecting mums should look out for spas offering this treatment to ease pregnancy aches. If you’re prone to blood clots, best to avoid Thai massage too, as there’s a risk of blood clots being dislodged. And if you have heart disease, check with your doctor before having a massage. If you feel discomfort, let your therapist know.

Most Thai people are much more flexible than Westerners, so she may be unwittingly pushing you beyond your limits.

More than

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2nd Floor SAMUI

Tel.: 0 954 141 366 www.xd-attractions.com

You’ll often see Thai people randomly giving each other a massage. And there’s a reason for this. The art has been passed down from generation to generation, and it plays an important part in Thai culture and lifestyle. Traditional Thai massage is a unique form of bodywork that incorporates Hatha yoga, acupressure and reflexology with origins dating back about 2,500 years. The roots of Thai massage are traced back to the founder of the practice (known as ‘Father Doctor’) Shivaga Komarpaj, a doctor and friend to The Buddha. Ancient medical texts were carved in stone in attempts to preserve the tradition of Thai massage and these stone inscriptions still sit within the walls of the Wat Po temple in Bangkok.

If you’ve ever been temple-touring in Bangkok, chances are you’ve been to Wat Po, the most photogenic temple and home to the enormous Reclining Buddha. Wat Po was built by Rama I in the 16th century and is the oldest and largest Buddhist temple in Bangkok.

The temple is considered Thailand’s first public university. Long before the advent of literacy or books, many of its murals and sculptures were used to illustrate and instruct scholars on the basic

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principles of religion, science, and literature. But why does the giant Reclining Buddha appear so relaxed and at ease? Well, he’s probably just enjoyed an authentic Thai massage as Wat Po, which has also home to one of the earliest Thai massage schools since 1955.

A certificate of learning Thai massage obtained here is held with high regard, and spas around the country are proud to display their masseuses’ certificates for clients to see. If you have 30,000 baht and 28 days to spare while visiting Thailand, you can do a professional Thai massage course at Wat Po Massage. You can experience a massage at the Wat Po Massage School too.

But forget luxury – as here you’ll line up with others dressed alike in a uniform of loose Thai clothing, and get the real-deal here of traditional Thai massage – partly painful, partly pleasurable as you get poked, prodded and stretched.

Considering it’s been around for more than a couple of millennium, Thai massage is no passing fad, so it’s worth giving it a try while visiting the land of smiles.

Rosanne Turner

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Delicious?

Definitely!

Noori India serves up amazingly good dishes and let you in on the recipes!

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Located on the tropical stretch of golden sands and turquoise waters off Koh Samui’s up market Bophut bay, Beach Bar offers wide variety of cocktails, champagne, wines, snacks, delicious home made ice cream and freshly blended fruit drink Come and join our happy hour as day turns to dusk before strolling down to the quaint cobblestone ‘Bophut Fisherman village’ Good things come in three, enjoy our Happy Hours daily at India. A massive country, always on the move. Packed full of history, colour, possibilities. As a simple tourist you could take a 10-year holiday there, and then you could just about say that you knew this country – though many would still disagree with you.

People tend to think of it as a homogenized area, when it clearly isn’t at all. There are different climates, geographies and cultures all within the same country.

01:30 - 02:30 pm 06:30 - 07:30 pm 09:30 - 10:30 pm

- buy one get one free -

The food is equally varied, and one of the few things you can say about it is that the dishes mostly include spices. Some are very mild, with Kashmiri dishes being delicately flavoured, while others blaze with heat. Then there are the different cooking methods. There’s the Punjabi tandoor oven, in which marinated meats, chicken and naan bread are cooked to perfection; there are skillets of iron to be heated on open fires; then pots, pans, steamers, skewers – just about every kind of cooking utensil is present somewhere in India. Its cuisine has captured hearts the world over. And these days you’re never far from an Indian restaurant.

Samui is no exception to the rule, but here you are in for a treat, a restaurant that’s received many accolades and is run by a hospitality professional and chef in the shape of Desh Deepak Pandey (usually simply known as D.D.). He’s the general manager at Noori India, and the person behind its success.

D.D. spent seven years working for the royal family in India, as general manager of the luxurious Desert Resort near Jaipur. Not only that, he’s also a highly-skilled chef himself. He hails from Rajasthan, in the north, a region steeped in history. D.D. has kept to the dishes of the north, with many coming from Rajasthan and the Punjab. Many of the recipes date back generations, and rely on freshly-ground spices and authentic ingredients, and are therefore bursting with taste. He knows all about the history of cooking and could easily write a book on the subject, but he’s entirely practical and puts his knowledge to work in the kitchen, delighting his guests with the dishes he offers. You’ll usually find him in the restaurant, though sometimes he’s up at one or other of the island’s luxury resorts catering for Indian weddings – he’s the go-to guy for these!

With culinary skills of this level it’s not surprising that Noori India is popular with holidaymakers and local people alike. It’s centrally located in Chaweng, on the beach road, 100 metres north of Tropical Murphy’s. (If you’re looking to park your car, you can easily find a spot on the lake road, then walk through to the beach road, turn left and the Noori is a minute’s walk up the street.) The restaurant has done well for itself prompting D.D.

HANSAR SAMUI

101/27-28 Moo 1, Bophut Koh Samui 84320 Thailand +66 77 245 511 | www.hansarsamui.com

so the meat becomes extremely tender. Chicken tikka masala is many a diner’s choice and is particularly popular at Noori. You can also have it as part of the restaurant’s popular set meal, which also comes with samosa, a mixed vegetable curry, pilaf rice and naan bread. If you’ve fallen in love with tandoori, then you might want to try the Noori special mixed grill, which is exactly as you might have guessed, a combination of all the tandoori specialties that the house offers - you won’t be disappointed.

Good chefs are asked all the time for recipes, and many of D.D.’s guests want to know how to make Indian food, so he decided to start his own cooking school. Cooking classes are perhaps the ultimate souvenir of a good holiday – rather than taking home an object, you’ve learned a skill, one which will stand you in good stead with your friends and family. On Samui most classes are all to do with Thai food, so D.D.’s classes offer a rare chance to learn about Indian cuisine.

to open a second Noori India further south on the same road, close to Poppies. He has also opened an outlet at Central Festival’s food court – if you’re here check out the excellent Thali he offers: a set meal comprising dahl, paneer, aloo ghobi, and naan bread, served with rice, pickles and chutney. Great value and packed with taste.

Noori India is a relaxing place to be, and you’ll first want to spend some time just browsing the menu, and then once you start eating you’ll be savouring every mouthful. You’ll be asked how spicy you would like your food, and naturally the staff are able to take your personal wishes into account. There are many fine dishes and in a short article such as this it’s only possible to cover a few. Fish comes in many varieties but any seafood lover will particularly enjoy the tandoori fish tikka which is cooked in the restaurant’s clay oven after soaking in a generous marinade of mixed herbs and spices. D.D. also offers a Goan seafood curry; (Goans know particularly well how to bring the flavour out in seafood and have some truly wonderful recipes.) You can also try a tawa which is a sturdy Indian griddle that’s brought to your table and consists of lamb, chicken or fish which has been cooked with Indian spices – absolutely delicious.

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D.D. teaches the classes himself and knows exactly how to help you to get the best out of the recipes. The experience is one that’s relaxed but fun. Classes take three hours and you can choose between five menus, three of which are vegetarian. You could, for example, learn to make chicken masala or saag paneer, tender chunks of homemade cheese in creamed spinach, as well as learning how to make papads and cucumber and mint raita. D.D. is also open to suggestions, and can usually accommodate your wishes. Once you’ve finished cooking and everything’s ready, you get to eat what you’ve just made. There will be plenty, too, so you’re welcome to invite your partner or a friend to come along at this stage and help you out. Classes are held every day between 10:00 am and 1:00 pm.

D.D. and his team get full marks for sheer taste, great quality and very affordable prices. Whichever of the three Noori Indias you decide to eat at, you can be sure that you’ll love the experience. And last but certainly not least, when it comes to paying the bill for the feast you’ve had (portions are on the generous side), it all turns out to be very, very affordable.

Dimitri Waring _______________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7730 0757 or 0 867 407 873

Baan Haad Ngam Boutique Resort & Spa 154 Moo 2, Chaweng Beach, Bophut, Koh Samui, Suratthani 84320 Tel: +66 77 231 500 Mob: +66 81 751 6073 Fax: +66 77 231 520 Email: info@baanhaadngam.com, booking@baanhaadngam.com, www.baanhaadngam.com

Romantic views, soothing sounds and classic Italian fare with a modern approach combine to please the most discerning diner.

Olivio - a must for visitors and locals alike.

Olivio ~ beachfront at Baan Haad Ngam Boutique Resort Chaweng Beach.

Free round trip transfer from Chaweng, Bophut and Choeng Mon. For reservation please call 0 7723 1500

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WEST COAST HAVEN

Drift placidly towards The Siam Residence – a hidden gem in Lipa Noi!

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Over the last few years, things have changed a lot. Not so long ago, new resorts looked at the areas around Chaweng and Lamai. The result, of course, was that these places filled up and land became expensive.

And so, when the big names started to appear, they looked for quieter, more secluded locations. The comparatively undeveloped southern part of the island was the choice. Others quickly followed their lead. Today the result is that this whole area of Samui is quietly and unobtrusively busier.

But, looking at the western coast, particularly that area around Lipa Noi, there’s not a lot of new development. In fact, apart from one beach club, there’s not a great deal there at all. There might well be many people staying in the areas nearby, but they have to head to Nathon for a change of scene or to explore a new restaurant. Except that’s not true!

There’s one notable, quiet and pleasant resort, with a great restaurant and a secluded beach. It’s been here for quite a while, although few people know of it. Its name is The Siam Residence.

It’s actually been here in its current location for the last 25 years although the Austrian owners have an ongoing policy of continual upgrading and improvement. The result is that all the bungalows, with their contemporary design and modern layout, look as if they’ve just been built. Everything here looks bright and chic, including the glass-sided octagonal massage sala overlooking the beach. And this semi-futuristic design is echoed in the restaurant and two dining rooms, although you can also opt to sit under the stars if you wish - and many do!

The other delightful aspect is there are spacious lawns at the front of the resort, around the restaurant area and the pool. It’s rare to see such well-tended lawns in Thailand; the constant maintenance is arduous in a tropical climate. And to go with these, the even more splendid sight of neat flowerbeds and borders, truly making The Siam Residence a little bit of home-from-home.

Although there are just 12 villas, there are two styles to choose from.

The resort is family-friendly and the larger villas have two large double bedrooms, as well as a gigantic walk-in wardrobe that’s easily big enough to store all the baggage and beach toys of two couples or an extended family. Plus the management will readily add an extra single bed or cots if asked. The only word, really, to describe the quality of the design and fittings here is opulent! The living areas are sumptuously furnished, and come with a big flat-screen TV, a comprehensive satellite TV package, a DVD player and a stereo with an iPod dock. The huge bathroom has fluffy white bathrobes and features a Balinese-style outdoor shower, but there’s also another smaller one for casual use tucked away too, as well as two separate toilets.

All of which makes it just perfect if you want to come to stay here for any length of time. But let’s get back to what we were talking about to begin with. Once you get outside of Nathon, it’s a long and featureless run along the ring-road towards Hua Thanon, down in the southern part of the island. The road is broad, fast and bland, and you’ll flash past garages and showrooms interspersed with big, blank stretches of nothing.

Really, the only thing to discover is the landmark of Nathon itself. Well, unless you know about the existence of Siam Residence, that is!

And it’s not at all hard to find. Coming from the direction of Lamai and heading towards Nathon, follow the signposts to Nikki Beach and the Raja ferry, at the major traffic lights. Then look for a turn, signposted on the right. You’ll find a small side turning right into the resort, after about a hundred metres. It’s a bit of a hidden gem! And there are several extremely good reasons to know about it.

The first thing is that there’s not much happening on the beach along that whole strip of coast. Other than the sand at Lipa Noi beach itself, there is little in the way of beach restaurants or places to stop and sit. And the second thing is that you are warmly welcome to come in and spend

Fine Beach & Hillside Dining at Samui's Newest Venue Quality Thai, Seafood & International Dishes The Ultimate Samui Dining Experience!

some time here at The Siam Residence. “We’re very pleased to see anyone visiting from outside,” Benjamin Lehmann, the resort’s Resident Manager, declared. “It’s very easy and laid-back here.

You could drop in during the day to take a look around and get the feel of the resort, or sit by the pool and catch up with your emails, perhaps. You’re welcome to use the pool and the sunbeds – there is a shady fringe on the beach if you’d prefer that – there’s towels and a shower available too, if you want. We don’t charge for this. But,” he added with a smile, “we would expect you to take some refreshment or a snack to make up for it.”

And it’s really lovely in the evening too, although it’s best to locate it in the daylight first! The restaurant is first class. There are all the usual suspects on the menu – split into Thai and international sections. There is a big starter section and a wide range of salads, plus more than a few choices for the veggies among you.

The mains section offers ribs, steak, fish and pasta, and the mixed grill is excellent, too.

The seafood is outstanding, and is bought-in every morning from the local market. There is usually a choice of barracuda, snapper, mackerel, king prawns or rock lobster – but if you want crab, scallops or shellfish, then please phone and order it the day before. And to go with this you can have your selection barbecued with sweet and sour sauce and vegetables, or deepfried with garlic and pepper. There’s even a ‘healthy option’ of going Thai, with your selection steamed and combined with vegetables, chilli sauce and garlic and with a choice of yellow or red curry, if you wish.

It’s quiet, it’s secluded, it’s a real fairyland at night, and it’s something of an unknown gem, tucked away on the west coast, not that far from Nathon. The Siam Residence is not that wellknow, but once discovered, people come back to it again and again – there are very few havens on this part of the island!

Rob De Wet

_______________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7742 0008. www.siamresidence.com

The Barge Nora Buri's Signature Restaurant Chaweng North For Reservation Tel: 0 7791 3555 E-mail: thebarge@noraburiresort.com www.noraburiresort.com

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THE WHOLE CHILD AND NOTHING BUT SCL International School takes learning to new levels thanks to a holistic approach.

Back in 2004, two children were going to school in an old wooden house at the back of a temple. In the background - jungle, palm trees, buffaloes grazing.

An idyllic scenario. It sounds great, doesn’t it? But you might be thinking by now the teaching was as simple and as rudimentary as the school building. And there you’d be wrong. Even if the school started small and didn’t look like an educational powerhouse, the teachers were dedicated, professional and inspiring.

The word got round, and more and more parents enrolled their children, who were happy there and got great results.

The school soon outgrew the old wooden house and it’s now in a new building in a new location, set in countryside in Lamai. It’s easy to find. As you head into Lamai from Chaweng, turn off the ring-road and take the small lane that goes past Tamarind Springs. Simply follow it until you see the school buildings. You’ll find a large modern and well-run complex with plenty of sports facilities. Over the last 10 years, more and more parents have sent their children there and the number is growing.

With a school like SCL International School, education isn’t simply a question of teaching academic subjects; the approach is a far more holistic one. It’s part of the school’s philosophy, and it’s a very practical one; each child is considered an individual, a person, and not a container which needs to be filled with academic subjects.

Says Emma Dyas, founder and director, “We have very high academic standards, but we don’t put pressure on children. We want them to enjoy coming to the school; to enjoy being children. We need to take care of the whole child, not just a part. Putting pressure on them to excel doesn’t really work anyway.” She cites the cases of children who attend the school for only one term each year and go to Europe for the remaining time. These parents tell her that pressure is very intense at the European schools, but the results aren’t as good as those at SCL. “The holistic approach certainly works,” says Emma. “It results in a happier child – and therefore higher results when it comes to learning.”

Of course, such an approach can only work if the teachers excel at what they do, and Emma has gathered around her vibrant professionals who are exactly the right people to help the children, and who treat them as individuals no matter how different their needs may be. Emma cites the work of some of these teachers and says how outstanding they are. Dario, for example, teaches Spanish and sports at the school. “He’s a Spanish national,” says Emma, “He taught in international schools for seven years in his home country. He brings a lot of fresh ideas to www.samuiholiday.com l 93

the school and has helped develop the curriculum considerably. He’s brought a new dimension to the languages department; Spanish is now one of the languages students can learn here and it’s proving extremely popular.”

Dario’s concept of P.E. encompasses many different sports, from football through table tennis to badminton. He also regularly sets up a boot camp on the beach. Because there are a wide variety of sports at the school, students find it easy to choose something they like, and therefore invest more energy and effort. As a result, they’re a lot fitter than they’d be if the school practiced that dull old staple of just one sport that all have to partake in.

SCL International School has its own counsellor, Poonam, who’s trained in psychology (she holds a B.A. in it) and is thoroughly experienced.

Emma says, “Because we have a holistic approach, we also focus on each and every child’s personality, and the emotional side of things, not just the academic concerns. So it’s really vital we have someone like Poonam, who can help children when they’re in difficulties.”

Poonam’s experienced in Cognitive Behaviour Therapy, a very powerful means of assisting children when faced with problems. Students can go to her and say they would like to talk to her and book a time to do so, or a teacher can recommend that the pupil goes to see her.

You may be unfamiliar with Cognitive Behaviour Therapy – it’s a complex subject but is credited with being a practical way to bring about change. Says Emma, “It’s basically re-training how you approach issues.

Trauma may trigger certain behaviour patterns, but if you can change the way you think, then you can change the actual behaviour pattern itself.

To start off, you have to reflect on what you’re doing. Being reflective will always help you; you have to ask yourself how you can differently approach a situation, what other perspectives you can find for dealing with a problem.” It’s a gentle approach and works with children, just as it does with adults.

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The school accepts children who have special needs and has its own Special Needs Co-coordinator, Meegan, who was born in South Africa and grew up there. Her work involves spending time with each child who is facing difficulties such as Attention Deficit Disorder or autism, assess him or her and make regular learning in the classroom possible. Meegan naturally helps the teachers with each child in this category, and trains them how to best help the child. Sometimes only small tweaks are needed, such as changing where a student sits or getting the teacher to interact with him or her in a different way. Each case is different and treated as such.

Part of the holistic approach is to boost subjects that many schools have traditionally neglected. Take, art, for example. Often it’s considered rather unimportant, to say the least. At SCL this isn’t the case; they have an extremely talented arts teacher, Lek, who is able to guide students in very different techniques. Lek is able to teach both Thai and Western-styles, and is thoroughly familiar with charcoal, acrylic oils, watercolours, as well as design and technology, and the creation of 3D models.

With its progressive and up-to-date approach, SCL International School is definitely offering opportunities way beyond what’s considered adequate. Thanks to its creative team of teachers, children actually enjoy coming to school and get results, too. And parents can rest assured that their children are receiving a bright, fun, yet thorough education.

Dimitri Waring ____________________________________ For further information, telephone 0 7741 8789. www.sclinternationalschool.com

Fine Beachfront Dining serving Thai, Seafood & International Cuisine.

Chaweng Beach Road Chaweng North Tel: 0 7742 9400 Fax: 0 7742 9498 E-mail: reservation@norabeachresort.com www.norabeachresort.com

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MARK THE PAGE Understated fine dining at The Library.

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If the term ‘fine dining’ conjures up images of heavy dark wooden chairs and stiff white napkins, then the minimalist approach of The Page will make you think again. Situated at well-known resort, The Library, you can easily get to the restaurant from South Chaweng Beach Road. As you’re walking or driving along you’ll notice a white statue of a person reading a book on a bench.

This marks the entrance to The Library. Turn in here and walk down towards the beach, along a path of wooden boards, past neat white buildings and manicured green lawns, and then to the right of the spectacular red-tiled pool you’ll come to The Page, on an expansive beachfront restaurant overlooking the blue waters.

The Page incorporates a stylish minimalist theme into its design. There are high vaulted ceilings and open walls with screen doors which are almost always open to let the sea breeze waft through and cool you down. Or if you want to truly experience the wonderful beachfront location you can sit on their long terrace which is kept cool during the day by tall leafy green trees that offer plenty of natural shade. There’s also an indoor air-conditioned section should you prefer it.

As a member of the Design Hotels Group, The Library has to meet certain criteria, mainly to be artistic and to offer laid-back understated luxury. The minimalist design can clearly be seen in the layout and decor of the restaurant, and the artistry is underscored by the design of the tables themselves. These are simple and stylish and are modelled on Majhong tables, with drawers at each side for the cutlery. They’re a wonderful concept and perfectly match the restaurant itself, which provides a blend of International and Asian cuisine.

The Page offers its diners two menus to choose from – one Western style, the other Asian but each has touches of the other. Among the starters is a deliciously fresh Yellow Fin Tuna Tartar with capers and rocket from the international menu. The tuna is served on a bed of fresh chopped avocado and it’s a light and delicious starter for any meal that follows. If you’d prefer a Thai starter, the ‘Thod Man Kung’, which are slightly spicy prawn cakes, are highly popular.

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Staying with the international menu, there’s the new addition of Roasted Baby Chicken. The menu used to feature roasted duck, but the baby chicken has a more succulent flavour and is highly recommended. The portions are generous and with two large chicken pieces you may even decide to share the dish. It comes with new potatoes, artichokes, baby carrots and a foie gras sauce.

Other dishes on the menu include Roasted Aurora Rack of Lamb with goat’s cheese ravioli and comfit tomatoes. Or perhaps you’d like to try something from the Asian side of the menu? Their signature dish of Ox Cheek Massaman Curry with potatoes is truly delicious, and the meat just melts in your mouth. Or how about the Stir-fried Soft Shell Crab with yellow curry? Many diners enjoy its piquant yet delicate taste. For dessert try the Hot Chocolate Fondant with Rum Raisin Ice-cream – it’s heavenly.

All the new menus are tried not just by the manager of the resort, but also by the owner himself who checks taste along with presentation. Customer satisfaction is taken very seriously, and as a result many diners come back again and again.

The Page is more than a lunch and dinner restaurant.

Staying with the theme of artistry and originality they have created ‘original experiences’, six unique meals that you can only experience at The Page. The first is what is termed ‘Breakfast Culture’ where you can lay back on a white mattress bed on the beach and enjoy a breakfast of fresh breads and pastries with some of the finest teas and coffees available, while being cooled by the early morning sea breeze. If you like cocktails then you’re sure to love the second experience, ‘101 cocktails’ at the newly renovated beach bar, offering a colourful and eclectic menu of all your favourite cocktails, some unique to the Page. All are paired with unique and flavoursome tapas and snacks.

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The third experience is ‘Tea by the Sea’, where you can enjoy a lazy afternoon tea with a variety of savouries, sandwiches, pastries, scones and small cakes as well as refreshing fruit.

Everything’s served on a pleasing-to-the-eye long plate.

‘Starlit Dinnerscapes’ is another of the experiences. It’s a wonderful treat with a private dinner set up on the white sandy beach under the evening skies. With your own butler and waiter service you’ll be basking in luxury.

Some of the world’s most tender cuts of beef are the focus of yet another of the experiences. Many people appreciate the high quality of Wagyu beef, and while you can get Wagyu beef elsewhere on the island, The Page is the only restaurant that offers the highest grade of Australian Wagyu beef, 9+.

The grade gives its name to the experience itself: ‘Wagyu beef MBS 9+’ and it’s undoubtedly the finest quality of beef there is; it literally melts in your mouth.

If all the eating has made you hungry for a little bit of knowledge on how to make dishes when you return home, then you’d be interested in the ‘Cooking with Class’ experience. The culinary team at the Page will instruct you in the art of Thai cooking. Each class will teach you how to make an appetizer, a main course and a dessert. Then the best part comes when you can enjoy the dishes you have made.

So if you’re planning a quiet relaxed lunch by the beach, a sumptuous dinner or you’re simply looking for something a little different, then this is the page that you should definitely be on.

Natalie Hughes

____________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7742 2767-8. www.thelibrary.co.th

This is the original health destination on Koh Samui offering only the best Vegetarian, Raw and Healthy Thai Food. Listed as one of the 50 best restaurants in the world.

Over 17 years serving the freshest mouthwatering healthy food.

Breakfast, Lunch & Dinner.

Daily @ both locations 7:00 am until 9:30 pm.

Radiance is a part of The Spa Resorts.

WORKING ON

SAMUI Is there a line between work and play?

In order for tourists to enjoy the wonderful island of Samui, there needs to be a fair few people working behind the scenes to make it all happen. Resorts and hotels which can’t ever close, restaurants open seven days a week, entertainment every night and bars that don’t close until the early hours of the morning.

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Working on Samui is tricky, because you have a very distinct high season and a very distinct low season. High season runs roughly from the middle of November to the middle of February, but this varies depending on who you speak to. There’ll be a few months of craziness followed by a very distinct lull. Hotels and resorts might have longer high seasons compared to smaller tour companies, for example. Some places might even take on extra staff around the high season just to cope with the influx of tourists eager to explore this small island.

Restaurants are a little different. They don’t usually stay open until early morning, and often close before midnight, which gives the owners and the staff at least a chance at a semi-normal day. The staff in a restaurant don’t usually mix with the patrons during their shifts, but often will choose to go out after their shifts and relax a little. But it is all too easy to finish work and then head to your local bar to relax. Before you know it, it’s closing time and you know you’ve got to be up early for your shift again tomorrow.

We’ve spoken to a few small bar owners on the island and they often say the same thing. It’s all too easy to join their patrons having a few drinks, and before they know it, they’ve been drinking all night. If you have a bar manager and staff that work alongside you, sitting at the end of the bar with a pint of beer discussing the latest football defeat is okay, but if you’re a ‘one man shop’, it’s different. Or is it…

With bigger hotels and resorts, the separation is very distinct. Rules of employment state very clearly that drinking on the job is forbidden. But that doesn’t stop staff from taking time to speak to their guests and make them feel at home. It just means they can’t dance on the tables at night time after enjoying happy hour. I’m wondering how the staff working in night clubs feel? Having to work while everyone around them is partying wildly and having a great time. We all know there’s nothing worse than being the only sober one in a group of ‘merry’ friends who’ve enjoyed one or two (or five) alcoholic beverages. Staff at Ark Bar are always rushed off their feet anyway so don’t have time to even think about joining the party, let alone dance on the tables. They do however always manage a smile which is nice. The bar staff at Green Mango might be seen dancing around behind the bar but I doubt they’re allowed to drink while on shift.

We spoke to one bar owner in Bangrak, who laughed and said that drinking with his bar patrons is the highlight of his evenings. We must point out that this is a small, personalised bar and whenever you go there, it’s more like visiting a mate than going to a bar for a night out.

The owner of a bar in Maenam, used to open the bar at 6:00 pm and drink with his patrons until 2:00 am. Luckily he was able to handle this with little effect on the service or the atmosphere. The crowd that frequented his bar were usually lively, and enjoyed the fact that he could relax with them and, again, it felt more like being round someone’s house than in a bar.

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Then there is the whole concept of ‘Thai time’. Something which can only be viewed as ‘flexible lateness’. You must have come across it?

You make an appointment for 10:00 am and the person breezes in at

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10:37 am, no apologies, sits down and starts the meeting. You wait patiently for an apology or an explanation but one doesn’t appear. This is ‘Thai time’. But this can work to your advantage. If you were out sampling the ‘buy one, get one free’ offers at a new mojito bar last night and you had an early 9:00 am meeting, you could decide to work on ‘Thai time’ and arrive at 9:30 am which would allow you an extra half hour in bed, or an extra half hour to allow the pain killers to work on your thumping head.

Maybe it’s the constant sunshine or the readily available cocktails, but the line between work and play can easily be blurred when living on an island. It seems as if the rules here are different from the ‘real’ world, but on the whole, nobody really minds.

Colleen Setchell

Our Siam Ten Senses Treatment focuses on the ten main senses in human body.

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Green Resort Green Spa Detoxifying and Slimming Program Healthy Thai Restaurant Natural Wing Health Spa & Resort 11/5 Moo 6, Maenam, Koh Samui, Thailand Tel: 0 7760 2111, 0 7760 2112 Fax: 0 7744 7243 Mobile: 0 819 682 796 Email: info@naturalwing.com, www.naturalwing.com

THE JEWEL IN CHAWENG

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Classic Gems offers a superb range of jewellery at very affordable prices.

Things have gotten zippy since the birth of the internet; now you can do everything faster, better and get the edge over your competition; you can pick up a skill in no time, watch a few YouTube videos and profess yourself an expert in a month. Fortunately most professions raise an eyebrow at that, and there’s still expertise that takes decades to learn. Professionals who declare themselves in for the long haul are more likely to be trusted. On Samui, where everything appears so modern, and stores set up overnight, you might think that traditional learning and crafting may be a thing of the past. But this isn’t so in many cases.

Classic Gems is a locally-run business. The current owner, Khun Chayapa, learned the jewellery business from her father and he learned it from his father. If you need to know anything about precious stones and jewellery then you won’t go wrong with Classic Gems. Their shop is conveniently located at the southern end of Chaweng Beach Road opposite Centara Grand Beach Resort.

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Entering the shop is a breath of fresh air from the hustle and bustle outside. There are assistants on hand to help and give advice should you ask, but they do not hover and interfere with your browsing experience. These are the same assistants that the shop started with over 20 years ago, and their expertise in the field of precious stones is vast - so don’t be afraid to ask them anything at all. For example they can advise on the best setting if you have a particular stone in mind, or even the best stone to give as a present to that special someone.

The air-conditioned shop is spacious and there’s plenty of room to walk freely around and appreciate the exquisite jewellery that’s on display.

Display cabinets showcase some of the finest and best quality jewellery that you will find on Samui. As a member of the Thai Gem and Traders Association, Classic Gems has been a long-trusted name in the jewellery business, and with Khun Chayapa’s son ready to take over the reins, it’ll be here for a long time to come.

In their Chaweng store they have a small but well-equipped work station for their own jeweller to make repairs and sizing adjustments. Should you also have something special in mind, your own design or a design you have a picture of, then they will make it to order. If it’s not too complicated the jeweller on Samui can work on it, and it’ll usually take about three days. More complicated pieces will be sent up to Bangkok where they also have a factory that designs and makes the more unique pieces that you’ll see on display in the shop. Should you buy any jewellery from Classic Gems they’ll give their own certification that’ll entitle you to have free cleaning and minor repairs, such as if a stone becomes loose from its setting. This is a lifetime guarantee.

Quality is number one when it comes to all the jewellery at Classic Gems. And choice – there’s a vast array of pieces. Top quality settings are used, with 24 and 18 carat yellow and white gold. And the settings are very important because they’re what make precious stones shine and sparkle. It’s also important to have the right setting to give durability to the piece of jewellery.

If you’d like a souvenir of Thailand then ruby or sapphire might be for you. These are the stones that are famous in Thailand. But again quality is very important, the colour as well as the cut. Classic Gems guarantee that their gems are of the highest grade and the colours are very beautiful and clear. You can find sophisticated single gem rings and some exquisite and intricate designed ones with multiple stones. But rings are not just for women, there are also plenty for men.

Rubies and sapphires are amongst four precious stones. The other two being emerald and diamond and Classic Gems has both of these on display too. Although you’ll probably be struck at first by the huge collection of beautiful rings, they also have bracelets, earrings and necklaces. Sets can be made to match with your particular stone or sometimes stones. If you’d prefer something in silver there is also a silver section, again with the option of made-to-order items, and a pearl section with the majority of the pearls coming from China and Japan.

With Samui becoming a more and more popular choice for destination weddings there is also a variety of wedding bands on display, from simple plain band types to stunning diamond engagement rings. When choosing wedding bands don’t forget that this will probably be the one piece of jewellery that you’ll shop for with your partner. Think about your personalities when it comes to the design, but also don’t worry if you like different metals, if you want white gold and your fiancé likes yellow.

There are no hard and fast rules that say wedding bands must match.

Remember this is your choice and you can have a bold or simple design whichever you think suits your personality. Classic Gems can help you with your choice and custom design the wedding bands just for you.

But remember - the rings are something that you’ll wear for years. Many people rarely remove theirs so make sure they are practical for your daily life; there’s no point in having a ring that you have to constantly take off and put on again because it’s getting in the way of what you’re doing.

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All the diamonds at Classic Gems come with certification from GIA (Gemological Institute of America), one of the world’s foremost authorities in gemology. As an independent and impartial body it evaluates all gems submitted to it. In issuing a certificate they are reporting on the authenticity of the gem that you are buying.

If you’d like to take a look at the fine jewellery on display for yourself or for that special someone in your life then you can also take advantage of their minibus transfer service. You only need to call three hours ahead of when you’d like to be picked up from your hotel and it couldn’t be simpler. And once you’ve arrived at the store, you’ll find that the prices are all extremely good value for money, making choosing some jewellery a thoroughly enjoyable experience.

Natalie Hughes

____________________________________________________________ For free transportation or further information, telephone 0 7723 0479. www.classicgemsamui.com

Thank you for your reviews that have made us...

2014 Winner

“A sure place in a street full of very average places.” Dubai,UAE “The real charm is the atmosphere as you're seated in a quaint night garden with grape vines.” London,UK “Un petit coin de paradis avec des mets excellents et copieux pour un très bon rapport qualité prix.” Paris, France

“It was worth every penny we spent there.” CA, USA “Each dish has been beautifully presented and the flavours have been magnificent.” MEL, Australia “Definitely worth a visit, specially as there are not so many places sith great wine here in Thailand!” Rome, Italy

Chaweng Garden Beach Resort Reservation, Call Khun Mae 084-836-1855 www.samuiwine.com www.facebook.com/SamuiWineOasis

What it Takes Have you got what it takes to save the world at Escapology?

Thirty year ago, computers games turned the world upside down.

And as the years went on the games became more complex, more fantastical and more diverse, as better and faster components came on the scene. Immensely complex games emerged, every one involving a challenge of some sort, with objectives to achieve, initiatives to take, and problems to solve. The graphics and simulations were so realistic and compelling that it was just like really being there.

Now it’s all changed. Yes, of course, these games still exist and are as popular as ever. But now people are starting to play real games, in real rooms, with real teams of people and real puzzles to solve in real time. And this quaint, old-fashioned idea, from back in the days when people sat around in their parlours, before television was even thought of, is taking the world by storm.

Actually, it’s not as odd as it sounds. Some of you may recall the game Cluedo, which may perhaps have been the forerunner of the genre. And, interestingly, the first recorded example of today’s ‘adventure room’ game idea happened way back in the early ’90s, at a one-week symposium held in California’s Silicon Valley, which was not only based on Cluedo but also added-in Agatha Christie’s crime novels and their characters.

Today the adventure-room game setting is back with a vengeance.

And now it involves a bunch of people (you!) really being inside a series of locked rooms, and having to use your wits and powers of analysis and deduction to unlock each door and progress to the next room, in order to go on and achieve your set objective. In less than two years, this style of game has erupted all over the globe and is still spreading like wildfire. And you can now get to play it here on Samui, at Beach Republic in Lamai.

It’s rare that anyone’s been able to say that Samui is in any way some kind of world-leading trendsetter! But make a note of the date – October 2014. This was when local resident, entrepreneur, and owner of Beach Republic, Tim Dean-Smith, opened ‘Escapology’ at his venue in Lamai. And to appreciate exactly why it’s ‘groundbreaking’, you need to be aware of a couple of things.

Firstly, as I said, it’s only in the last couple of years that this trend has exploded onto the scene. And like all successful and popular ideas today, pioneering companies such as ‘Adventure Rooms’ and Bangkok’s own ‘Escape Hunt’ have wrapped the whole thing up in a package and presented prospective investors with a ready-made franchise – everything you need, including staff-training, ready-torun, but with the downside being the same plots and stories are franchised everywhere. Secondly, the usual format is that players get one hour to escape. Or not! And it’s worth noting that only three teams out of every ten manage to escape within the set time-period with Adventure Rooms.

Keep all of this in mind for a moment while I introduce the name, Josh Gould. Josh worked for some time at Beach Republic a little while back, before heading off to Bangkok. He was intrigued by Escape Hunt, found himself a job there, and discovered that he had an instinctive talent for thinking up new game themes, and the puzzles and clues to go with them. Josh wrote his first two original adventure room scripts and took them to Tim at Beach Republic. The end result was the formation of the company ’Escapology’, with plans to promote franchises throughout the USA (with the first American branch already open in Orlando), and to expand into the Asian market, with a Bangkok outlet on the cards as you read this.

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And the other significant factor? Josh has a kind heart! Everyone gets to escape from his rooms, even if they have to appeal to the Game Masters for a bit of help along the way! (And, in addition, he’s already working on two totally new and unique scenarios for Escapology, to be premiered here, later this year.)

Escapology at Beach Republic is an absolute must, whether you live here, you’re here for a wedding (with the stags versus the hens) or you’re looking for something really exciting for a party – or just for sheer fun! There are two sets of rooms, each on a different theme, the mission of each being presented to you on a big-screen video as you begin. One (Shanghaied) puts you captive aboard a sailing ship that’s put into port at Koh Samui which is your only chance to get away, and the other (Cuban Crisis) takes you back to the Cuban Missile Crisis of 1953, where you need to break into Castro’s inner sanctum and steal his secret documents, in order to avoid a nuclear war.

This is all clever stuff! Each scenario has three rooms with padlocked exits.

There are also locks on chests, cupboards or drawers. Some need a key to open them. Others need a combination of numbers – one or two even have letter-combination locks. The décor is super and very effectively matched to the time-period it depicts. Even the flooring is different – the rooms on the ‘ship’ have wooden flooring, whereas the ones set in Cuba have Hispanic-type terracotta tiles. Artefacts and props are evocative, like the old Olympus typewriter from the 1950s, or the Victorian books and furniture. In fact, seeing photos of the settings, it looks just like a walkthrough of a computer game – it’s that realistic!

And the game itself? I’d love to tell you about the clues and puzzles, but I can’t! All I’m able to say is that it’s unpredictable - there’s no routine approach, and sometimes clues come from info on a map, or connecting dots and dashes found in a journal with a chart found elsewhere. And it’s non-linear – meaning that sometimes you have to get other rooms open to be able to find clues still locked back where you started.

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Samui Discover authentic Indian Cuisine

Noori India Restaurant - Chaweng Center Chaweng Beach Road, opp. Chaweng Buri Noori India Restaurant - Chaweng South at Chaweng Cove Resort Noori India - Central Festival at Chaweng Beach Road For reservation (English) - 0 867 407 873 or 0 7741 3108 For reservation (Thai) - 0 813 960 283 E-mail: nooriindia_samui@yahoo.com www.nooriindiasamui.com

2012 WINNER

There are two Game Masters following you via closed circuit monitors, and they’ll take pity on you if you’re struggling! One of them, Khun Tat (and she’s also the branch manager here), tells me that the fastest anyone has made it out is currently 36 minutes, but with most folks taking between 45 and 55 minutes to find the exit. (Where you’ll find a free drink waiting for you just around the corner at the beach club . . .)

So there it is. A rare Samui first with Escapology. It’s exciting! But I can’t tell you more than I have already – so you’ll just have to go along yourself to see if you’ve ‘got what it takes’!

Rob De Wet ____________________________

For reservations and further information, telephone 0 7745 8100. www.escapology.com/samui

2013 WINNER

2014 WINNER

SCL International School International Education from Pre-school to Secondary Educating the Mind Nurturing the Soul



 Small classes  Individual education plans Fully qualified teachers  A family atmosphere

With these qualities, it’s not hard to see why the children at SCL are achieving so much A warm welcome is extended to anyone who wishes to visit the school

SCL International School

206/26 Moo 4 Maret, Lamai, Koh Samui, Surat Thani 84310, Thailand Phone: 0 7741 8789 Mobile: 0 810 910 714 Email: emma@sclinternationalschool.com www.sclinternationalschool.com

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LOOK A LITTLE CLOSER Nathon has some charms - you’ve just got to know where to look.

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When people talk about visiting Samui, Nathon doesn’t usually feature on their ‘must visit’ list, but the island’s administrative centre does offer a few worthwhile sights.

Nathon lies on the west coast of the island and is best known for being the island’s main port, the key arrival and departure point on the island, apart from the airport. Most people arriving from Suratthani on the mainland will arrive here by ferry, but you can also depart to neighbouring islands, such as Koh Pha-Ngan and Koh Tao from here.

Nathon pier is able to accommodate hundreds of people that hop on and off various ferries throughout the day. Car ferries, passenger ferries and even ocean-going tour and transfer boats. Nathon is also home to the main bus terminal offering both VIP and economy class coaches, and you can buy ferry and bus combination tickets to make travelling easier.

Nathon town itself has some interesting spots. The beachfront road has countless Thai restaurants, bakeries, pizzerias, sarong and bathing suit shops, along with internet cafes and coffee shops which are perfect to sit down, relax, and enjoy a drink. The waterfront restaurants are a must for authentic Thai cuisine but watch out, the dishes might be spicier than you’re expecting! There is no shortage of taxis in the form of metered, motorbike or public transport, but remember to haggle for a lower price and don’t forget to smile while you’re doing it.

Nathon’s main road, which runs parallel to the beachfront road, is lined with little restaurants, cafes, and many old wooden Chinese shophouses, selling a unique range of goods. Make sure you buy your souvenirs here as this is by far the cheapest place on the island to buy them! The

numerous clothing shops boast prices that will have you reaching for your wallet in seconds. The fresh market, further south along the main street, offers you the opportunity to indulge in a large variety of fruit and vegetables typical to southern Thailand, as well as seeing lots of fresh seafood. A few big banks in the main street are available to exchange your holiday money into Thai Baht, as well as a big post office for posting your souvenirs home.

The beach itself in Nathon has fine white sand and this makes it ideal for exploring. It is also shallow enough to walk about 100 metres offshore.

In the evenings, the beachfront is one of the best places to watch the sun setting over the sea. On the corner of where the beachfront road starts, there is a wonderful little restaurant aptly named ‘Sunset Restaurant’ and here you have front row seats to watch nature do her thing, so sit back with an ice cold beer or cocktail, and enjoy. If you’re after a taste from home, Max Murphy’s Irish pub is across the road from the police station and offers modern pub grub and some well-known beers including Guinness and Kilkenny.

A few kilometres south of the Nathon town centre at the traffic lights intersection, there is a turning heading inland to Hin Lad waterfall and temple, a wonderful shady oasis and welcome break from beaches and sun. There is a small Thai restaurant with delicious food (and sometimes live music), as well as a few little stands selling ice cold coconuts and other nibbles. The temple is situated amongst the lush vegetation, but the waterfall itself is roughly a three kilometre walk from the car park. About 50 metres further, you will find the upper pool where you can jump in (carefully!) and cool off after your walk.

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Welcome to Sa-ard’s Watersports Center on Koh Samui. Where everyday can be an aquatic adventure – above and below the crystal clear blue waters of the Gulf of Thailand.

Join us and discover what r eally makes these islands so very special.

Our brand new catamaran Fountaine Pajot Belize 43 “Kindred Spirit” can comfortably take 15 people on a day trip and sleep 6 people on over-night excursions.

At that same intersection, but this time turning towards the sea, you will find Koh Samui’s immigration office. If you do need to visit for any reason, remember to dress appropriately - as is required for all Thai government offices. There’s usually a few hours wait, so head across the road to the little coffee shop and enjoy some nice hearty European food and excellent coffees.

Most evenings, an area of the Nathon seafront transforms into a street market. Here you can eat almost anything from the rows and rows of street food stands. You’ll find mainly locals here so if you’d prefer to avoid the tourist areas, this is the place to be.

Grab yourself a plastic stool, enjoy your prawns on a stick or noodle soup, and wash it down with a beer while enjoying the atmosphere. Some great people-watching can be done on nights like this.

Another institution is the ‘About Art and Craft’ shop, owned by Khun June, who also owns the Art Cafe in Bophut. Both have a reputation for serving good quality, healthy, organic and often vegetarian food, using recipes from all over the world. The cafe in Nathon also sells a selection of kitchenware which has been carefully hand painted, making each item unique. There are also watercolours and carvings, and a range of jewellery.

The starboard hull has a double stateroom with ensuite bathroom and living area. There are also two double state rooms in the port hull with a shared bathroom. You’ll also find a large galley and a living area with CD/DVD player and a 28 inch colour TV. All the cabins and living areas are fully air-conditioned.

Sa-ard’s Watersports Center also offers Private Speedboat tours to the beaches and snorkeling destinations of the surrounding islands.

Manager and Skipper is Sa-ard, one of Thailand’s most celebrated windsurfers. He took part in the Olympics 1984 in Los Angeles and 1992 in Barcelona, was a long time member of the Thai National Windsurfing Team, has been Asian Champion and 5 times Gold Medal Winner in the South East Asian Games. You simply could not be in better hands!

So as you can see, even though it is ‘only’ the administrative capital of the island, Nathon does actually have some nice things to offer, and if you’re looking for a day’s shopping away from the crowds, this is the place to be.

Colleen Setchell

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Songkran - the world’s largest water fight.

OK. So you want the number one reason to visit Thailand? Well, in a word - Songkran. That’s if you’re fond of water! And who wouldn’t be during the hottest and driest part of the year. The word Songkran comes from the Sanskrit words meaning ‘New Year’, and it’s the celebration of the Lunar New Year in Thailand. It’s the largest water festival in the world, where thousands of people take to the streets to cleanse their souls and enjoy the community spirit. Held on the 13th, 14th and 15th of April, it’s three days of complete pandemonium throughout the country, although in some areas the celebration continues go on for as long as seven or ten days. People line the streets armed with hosepipes, big barrels, buckets and water guns full of ice-cold water, waiting for all who pass by.

Songkran is regarded as one of the most important festivals in Thailand, because it encompasses many of the major values incorporated into the Thai way of life. It’s a time for the family to come together to show appreciation, love and respect to each other. Traditionally, Buddha images are bathed at this time. The water that runs off the statues is collected and sprinkled onto the shoulders of the elderly. This ‘blessed’ water is believed to give good luck and prosperity for the future. This custom has evolved to include dousing others with water to relieve them from the heat. The historical, spiritual and religious traditions have developed into what we know today as the largest street water fight you’ll ever experience.

On Samui there are almost no rules during Songkran. Anything goes. On foot, riding your bike or driving your car or truck, be prepared to get wet.

Many of the bars, restaurants, hotels and shops will be open for business as usual. But water throwing is not allowed inside. All the water weapons you’ll need will be available in the shops, days before the celebration begins.

Invest in a ‘Super Soaker CPS 1000’ before you go out to battle. Feel like a child again, and enjoy the electric buzz as you amble along the streets, soaking up the splashes as a welcome respite from the heat at this time of year.

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If you want to escape from the water for a while, several hotels and resorts offer alternatives to the huge water fight. Within their complexes, entertainment, food and drink are available, in a much drier environment.

Alternatively, you can embrace the true traditional aspect to this celebration, by heading off to one of the many temples dotted around the island.

Numerous Buddhist followers commemorate this occasion in their place of worship. Starting with making merit, they’ll wake up before the sun has risen (a very magical part of the day) and prepare food to be given to the passing monks. Monks will walk the streets collecting their alms, whilst

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blessing people or property on their journey back to the temple. On arrival at the temple, the monks will consume the donations of food and drink. And this will be followed by the locals being invited to participate in the feast. Once merit has been made, the locals will listen to Buddhist sermons in the temple. Finally a number of further rituals are carried out, including the cleaning of homes or places of work, and the releasing of birds and fish into their natural habitat.

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If you’re not a Songkran veteran, here are some important points to remember. Clean, cold water must be used along with a water gun, plastic bucket, bowl or hosepipe. Icecold water is most refreshing in the high temperatures and gratefully received by willing participants, however throwing ice is frowned upon. Everyone that’s out on the street is fair game. Use a plastic bag or dry bag in order to protect your belongings. Dress appropriately, with loose, light clothes covering your swimwear.

All the celebrations normally begin to subside around 6:00 pm. However, you’ll always stumble across some late night flicks of water coming your way, especially in the busier areas like Chaweng and Lamai. And these are the places to continue the festivities after the water party has died down. A number of locations offer spectacular firework displays, along with the opportunity to ignite and release your own lantern into the night sky. Enthral in this magical once-a-year occasion.

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FINS OF FURY A look at the place of the Siamese fighting fish in popular Thai culture.

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The Thai nation just loves a good fight! Plus, of course, they’re a very sporting kind of a nation. Top of the list has to be their national sport, the Thai boxing known as ‘Muay Thai’. And like many other facets of Thailand, it’s steeped in a whole wrap of pageantry and ritual that is just as much part of the ethos as the spectacularly fast leaps and kicks that characterise the sport.

But, down at grass roots level, few ordinary folk can aspire to the riches and glory that Muay Thai can offer – you need to be young, fit and fast and not a little mean for that! On the other hand, a buffalo will do quite nicely – making the noble art of buffalo fighting a convenient number two combat sport. Or, if buffalos are a bit too big and lumpy and cost a lot to feed, how about pitting a couple of cocks against each other instead?

Or . . . if cages full of squawking cockerels are really getting on your neighbours’ nerves, what about something altogether smaller, quieter and cheaper? How about a fish?

This is how it all began, hundreds of years ago, in the poorer part of the northeast of Thailand. Nobody knows for certain when it started, there are no written records, and Thai history is patchy and concerns itself with important things like kings and queens and battles. Some sociologists guess at five or six hundred years, but this is based on the knowledge that these fish were being bred during that period for their beautiful plumage and were a favourite at the Royal Court.

But, somewhere in a rice field in Issan, the plain, dull-green variety were being pulled out of the water and put, two in a tank, to fight. All that’s definitely known about the origins of the sport is that official reports of fights start to appear in the 1800s, and King Chulalongkorn, the beloved Rama V, not only recognised and legalised fish fights but also owned an impressive collection himself. Since then the Thai term for fish fighting has emerged as ‘plakat’, hence the sport has become known as ‘plakat Thai’, and has spread all over Thailand, with each region favouring their own variety of fighting fish.

The species itself is ‘Betta’, and there are three Betta species; splendens, smaragdina and imbellis, of which splendens is the most colourful and the best known. It is also the most reliable fighter and the most in demand. They are found in the wild throughout the extensive Mekong River basin of Thailand, Laos and Cambodia, in the standing waters of canals, rice paddies, and floodplains. But they are now much soughtafter and collected, leading curiously to a wild series of colonies having been recently discovered around Adelaide in Australia.

Siamese Fighting Fish are generally quite docile and – much the same as buffalos – have to be trained and practically goaded into fighting.

In nature, this only ever happens with males, as a result of the territorial invasion of another male. It’s true, yes, that they have teeth and use them to snap and tear at the flowing fins of their rival. And it’s this behaviour that has led to some bad press as they have spread into domestic aquaria around the world – they’ve gained the reputation of being aggressive. Although, as one breeder pointed out, in actual fact they are shy and a little anti-social, preferring to keep to themselves. Unfortunately, other fish see their huge and billowing fins as something possibly edible, and the annoyed self-defence of the Thai fish causes them to be perceived as troublemakers.

In the northeast of Thailand, the fighting season runs from March until September. But, amazingly, over the generations, each breeder has been releasing the small fry of his champions back into his secret ponds in the fields, selectively strengthening his bloodline. Fighting champions are bred to have thicker lips and a sturdier body, and to have smaller fins with less area to bite at. These little fish make themselves a nest of bubbles in which they live and breed. The mating pair creates hundreds of fry. And then the big problem – how does the breeder pick out the best fighters? The method, which has been developed over centuries of experience, is both simple and clever.

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The breeder places a bamboo tube at the side of the pond. Early in the morning, he just lifts the tube out of the water and checks to see if there is a fighter inside the bamboo or not. Only the strongest fighters will be able to chase off others and claim the tube for occupation, as it’s the best location for building a nest and waiting for a fishy lover.

The bamboo tube is the best and strongest shelter to hide in because it will protect the delicate bubble nest from winds and an unstable water surface. In short, only the strongest fish can claim the best location to breed. And the breeder takes that one to fight in the ‘ring’. But, having picked out his best fish, there’s an intensive program of training which in comparison makes a Muay Thai boxer’s look like child’s play. This involves sudden temperature changes, spraying his fish with water, putting mirrors inside the tank to duplicate another fish – there are all sorts of tricks!

And the contest itself? Well, it’s really very civilised. The two fish are placed into a tall square glass and immediately start to circle each other. One will then suddenly make a dash at the other, flaring his fins, prompting the other fish to quickly retaliate. After 20 or 30 minutes,

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one of the fish will give up and swim into a corner, mostly having suffered no damage. If it gets to one hour with nobody backing down, then the fight is considered a draw.

And the best bit? Unlike animals that are trained to compete and restricted in captivity, all of this (except for the fight itself) still happens in the fish’s natural habitat. The competitors are released back to where they came from, none the worse for wear, to breed again for the following year – and I bet there’s more than a few Thai kick boxers that wish that could happen to them!

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PALATIAL PATIO The Patio Restaurant offers fine dining in an amazing setting.

A few decades ago, a local entrepreneur, Khun Virach Pongchababnapa, was wondering what to do with a bit of beachfront land that he’d inherited. This was in Lamai and a few tourists were starting to turn up on the island. He built a few huts. Business was good and he ended up with a resort, and over the years it began to get more and more sophisticated.

For accommodation in Lamai, the prestigious Pavilion Samui Boutique Resort has, for the last 20 years and more, been one of the finest places to stay. The Pavilion is resolutely contemporary and could easily feature in one of those coffee table books featuring the hippest of hotels. Its clean, modern lines please the eye, and as for accommodation itself, it would be hard to beat.

The same goes for the food. Khun Virach has always believed in eating well, and has from the early days managed to find some extraordinary chefs, who have led him on a culinary journey that matched the entrepreneurial one he was already taking. One of Samui’s most creative restaurants was born, The Patio.

The Patio Restaurant is situated at the more easterly end of Lamai, and has a commanding waterfront location, making it an extremely relaxed place.

You’ll easily see it if you turn off the ring-road to follow the beach road through Lamai as you head toward Nathon. The Patio serves Italian and Thai cuisine, cooked exactly right, making it the very best fine dining experience. It’s housed in one of Samui’s most beautiful wooden buildings, a pavilion made almost entirely of rich tropical hardwoods, and a deep russet red in colour. It overlooks the sea, and is an amazing place to watch the sun go down.

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The restaurant’s extremely well designed and crafted,with the design having its origins in Chinese architecture. However, it’s thoroughly contemporary, too. It appears at once deeply simple yet complex, with tropical wood beams adding not heaviness but a lightness to the building. It’s as intriguing to the eye as anything that artist M.C. Escher could have created. Water features abound, giving an additional gracefulness to the restaurant. You can dine outside on the patio itself, or inside – but wherever you choose, you’ll be aware you’re in stylish but laid-back surroundings.

At night it’s lit by huge lanterns that hang from the teak ceiling and all the tables have candles. This means you have enough light to see clearly by and the atmosphere remains intimate. This might seem a trivial point, but a lot of restaurants struggle to get the lighting correct, and it’s no easy task.

The Patio succeeds and brings a relaxed ambience to any dinner here.

You’re well-looked after here with friendly and knowledgeable staff who speak excellent English.

The Patio has both a Thai menu and an International one, which focusses on Italian dishes. It’s very hard to make recommendations, as the food is extraordinarily good. Even what appears to be a quite simple and unremarkable dish turns out to be sumptuous. The humbly-named Pavilion Soup becomes a gourmet treat in the hands of the chef; he adds calamari, prawns, tomatoes and carrots to make a dish that seems to be more than the sum of its culinary parts. You’ll be surprised at how tasty a soup like this can become.

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SMART START

Day care and learning center Where your child shines bright Tel: +66(0)98 364 5379 www.samuismartstart.com Lamai, Koh Samui

Tord Man Pla – think spicy fish cakes – a Thai favourite is a starter that delights with its spiciness and comes in large portions, served on banana leaves, along with pineapple chunks and a dipping sauce of peanut, cucumber, chilli and palm sugar.

You’ll find a pizza oven at the restaurant too, and a whole range of purely Italian treats. Naturally you’ll find lots of pasta, including several vegetarian options. But if you want to see how good fusion food can be, then opt for tom-yum goong with spaghetti. It’s a perfectly balanced dish that seems to have its roots in both Italy and Thailand at one and the same time. Nothing clashes here, and each of the flavours only enhances the others.

Like all the dishes, the portions are on the generous side.

There’s plenty of choice for meat-lovers, too, with a range of dishes that include steaks and other meat treats. Desserts are every bit as good as the starters and mains, only a lot more decadent, and are hand-crafted delights in themselves.

The Patio also offers a variety of entertainment, too, and includes a popular Thai night on Mondays, with Thai dancing accompanied by live music played on traditional instruments. The dancers are all dressed in traditional clothing and it’s a chance to enjoy a bit of Thai culture. And while you watch, you can enjoy a sumptuous Thai buffet. The first drink is complimentary, by the way.

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Zico's is an electric combination of colourful calypso, vibrant carnival rhythm and dance.

A unique party experience not to be missed! Every night is fiesta night at Zico's.

The beat goes on, and so does the dancing.

Tuck into a superb selection of all you can eat grilled seafood and meats, prepared just for you, complemented by large salad bar.

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If you’re looking for something truly special for a loved one, then try The Patio’s Romantic Dinner on the Beach, whereby you and your partner dine right on the sands in a beautifully-decorated gazebo. (For this, you’ll need to reserve your place 24 hours in advance.) With floral décor and Prosecco wine, this will be a wonderful evening to remember.

Close by, there are two bars, the Scenic Bar which is set in its own octagonal open-air sala, and the Look-Out Bar, facing the beach. Both afford fine views of Lamai Bay, and are great places to hang out and simply relax, which is what the Pavilion is all about.

The cost of eating here is very affordable, representing exceptionally good value for money. You’ll be pleased that you came. And with its exceptionally large menu, you’ll be motivated to come back to The Patio Restaurant and enjoy still more of the chefs’ dishes.

Dimitri Waring ___________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7742 4030 or 0 7742 4420. www.pavilionsamui.com

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STONE SNAKES

AND CLAY CHARACTERS The dramatic world of Wat Sila Ngu.

It’s gone in a flash. All you see is a temple gate as you drive past, and it’s all too easy to miss one of the island’s most intriguing temples. But it’s well worth stopping and spending some time here. It’s easy to get to, as it’s on the ring-road just past Rocky’s Resort, before you get to Ban Hua Thanon.

Wat Sila Ngu is far from being a run-of-the-mill temple. Just translating the name from Thai adds a sense of the dramatic: ‘sila’ means stone, and ‘ngu’ means snake. Yes, that’s right - Stone Snake Temple. As you go round the grounds, you’ll see it really does live up to its name: snakes a-plenty have been carved here, and stand guard over the entire area.

Once inside the main gate, you’ll find a grassy area, usually deserted, where you can easily park. You probably won’t even see many people here.

A huge tree stands guard with a canopy of spreading leaves and a swathe of coloured ribbon around its base, signifying that it’s sacred. Already, though the main road is just beyond, a sense of peacefulness reigns. The walls of the temple keep out most of the sound from outside.

Parts of the grounds look neglected; the grass is long and some of the buildings clearly could do with some attention and upkeep. It might seem as if the temple has seen better days. But then comes the contradiction – a very sudden one. Look over to your right and you’ll see, springing out of that same long grass a magnificent work in progress: a brand new temple that’s nearing its finishing stages. It’s a deep red clay colour of such uniformity that it may seem quite unreal when compared to the colours of the other temple buildings. But that’s only because it has yet to be painted, both inside and outside. The work here has been going on for years, and although the scaffolding has come down, the temple itself remains unfinished. It’s cost millions of Baht so far, and the financial end is still not in sight.

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Despite the arresting sight of the building, visitors seem a little shy of stepping inside. Perhaps it’s because the temple is unfinished and might be dangerous inside (it isn’t), or perhaps because it looks as if at any minute a crowd of painters will surely arrive. But once you do go inside – and you’re welcome to do so, as long as you are correctly attired – you won’t be disappointed. Unless you’re an avid temple-goer, then chances are you’ll never have seen anything quite like the interior. Your eyes will have to get used to the darkness – there are no lights left on inside the building – but even before your eyes have adjusted, faces will appear to be forming wherever you look. Your eyes aren’t tricking you either: some hundred or so figures have been sculpted so that they are half emerging from the walls. You’ll see whole bodies that appear to wresting themselves out of the clay walls. Most people go silent when they see this. It’s definitely awe-inspiring. If you’re a little familiar with Buddhism, then you’ll recognize many key scenes from The Buddha’s life, and that the characters depicted on the walls are all from well-known stories and scriptures. The main Buddha statue at the far end is still, at the time of writing, covered in plastic wrapping – no doubt to protect it until the building is finished.

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ZAZEN If you are looking for something wonderful and different, Zazen restaurant is the place for you to discover. Their master chef emphasises the use of healthy organic ingredients while infusing dining participation. Zazen is truly one of the most romantic and serene beachside dining restaurants on the island. Every night this charming establishment lights up over 100 candles to set the ambiance for you to experience.

Tel: 0 7742 5085 Email: info@samuizazen.com Website: www.samuizazen.com

Samui Every conceivable Indian dish is on offer here – and they are all delicious! Conveniently located in Central Chaweng, the restaurant is open from 11:00 am – 11:30 pm.

For further information, reservations, and take-away orders (free delivery in Chaweng area), telephone 0 7741 3315.

Asia Travel

Outside you’ll see the already completed hall, and a roof decorated with ‘cho-fa’ or sky-tassels. You may wonder what these tapering finials signify, and it’s anyone’s guess. Nobody actually knows.

Although they are so common, there’s no record of why they came into existence. Interestingly, each and every part of a Thai temple has a significance but the cho-fa are an exception and remain forever mysterious. To Western eyes they appear very exotic, and if you go to Angkor Wat, you’ll see exactly the same form – they have remained more or less unchanged for over seven centuries. Khmer in origin, they became popular in Thailand, and are today considered a part of the nation’s heritage.

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The rest of the temple grounds are equally worth exploring, and even if not so arresting, you’ll find dozens of instances of Thai culture - more than you would usually at a temple. Towards the sea, you’ll find a chedi or pagoda, a Thai spire which is thickly covered in gold paint, and is a place of worship for those living locally. It holds Buddha relics that were brought to Samui by monks, following a journey to Sri Lanka.

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Close by, a staircase leads down to the sea. The steps are flanked by statues of two enormous gold cobras with their heads rearing up, as if to protect the temple from the sea. The beach here is a mix of sand and softly-rounded boulders and looks out over Ban Hua Thanon in the distance.

It’s also a place of burial and you’ll see spire-like monuments clustered together in a small garden. Some of the monuments have photographs of the deceased, adding a poignant note to the cemetery. You’ll also find an old tree here which grows over a niche in the rocks. It’s a consecrated spot and home to some small statues. In Thai culture, when a Buddhist statue has become old or broken, it can’t just be thrown away, but needs to be placed with others, in a special spot. You’ll see such collections at every temple on Samui.

Despite the tranquillity of the grounds and the slow feel of this temple, Wat Sila Ngu is a place where there’s a lot going on – more than you’d ever think if you simply glimpse it as you speed by. Come back in a few months, or a year or two’s time and maybe you’ll find whole parts of it will have changed, but you can be sure of one thing – its silent stone guardians will still be in place.

Dimitri Waring

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Private real estate with incredible 180-Degree views The actual view from this house is the picture above. This 4-bedroom house has been built according to European standards on 972 sqm. It is centrally located near Nathon and only 500 metres from the main road in a small, warm and tidy community. Priced very competitively, this house is ideal for couples or young families ready to live in paradise.

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CHAWENG BEACHLand For Rent Chaweng Beach Road, Chaweng South Land for Rent: 15-20 years Land Size: 30x110m (Beachfront 30m) Currently houses a resort but is perfect for redevelopment.

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