July / August 2016

Muay Thai Excellence

Thailand’s national sport, plus one of its greatest heroes, are now together on Samui – at Samart Payakaroon training gym!

The Equilibrium of Eating We explore a new culinary experience at one of the island’s most stylish resorts – The Library.

A Warm Welcome

Editor

Graeme Malley graeme@siammap.com

Graphic Designer

Jit-anong Sae-ung - Zign

Photographer

Akaphon Phongninlaarphon - Don

Feature Writer Rob De Wet

Feature Writer Dimitri Waring

Feature Writer Karan Ladd

Webmaster

Seksak Kerdkanno - Klauy

Sales & Marketing Director Nipawan Chuaysagul - Ning 0 898 783 891

ning@siammap.com

Financial Director

Kasper Bjørk kasper@siammap.com

Managing Director Henrik Bjørk henrik@siammap.com

Siam Map Company Ltd.

52/6 Samui Ring Road, Moo 3 Bo Phut, Koh Samui, 84320, Thailand Tel: 0 7742 2201 Fax: 0 7741 3523 E-mail: info@siammap.com www.siammap.com

From iridescent sandy beaches where you can bask under the hot, hot tropical sun to candle-lit temples of fine dining where you can relax with your loved ones and enjoy the finest food, Samui brims with a wide variety of different pleasures enabling you to enjoy your stay on the island, no matter if you’ve come for a couple of days or a couple of months.

There’s an extraordinary amount to do, and Samui caters for many different kinds of holidaymakers.

In the past it offered only the simplest of accommodation, along with the simplest of foods – it was basically a place to unwind and enjoy the sun and the sea. You can still find enjoy this type of holiday here and live very economically, but nowadays Samui offers across-the-board variety and caters for both small and lavish budgets, making it a truly amazing destination. There are breath-taking resorts set in beautiful locations and villas perched on hills in idyllic and completely private settings. And there’s now an array of five-star resorts offering world-class accommodation.

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The same goes for the food. You can feast on both Thai and international cuisine, treating yourself to dinners that range from cheap yet tasty, to pinnacles of sophistication and the kind of food you’d normally expect to find only in large, cosmopolitan cities.

With a little planning, you can enjoy a holiday on Samui that reflects all you’d hope to find in a tropical idyll. Whether it’s sheer simplicity you’re after or a deluxe vacation, you’ll find that Samui will satisfy all your needs and wants. Not surprisingly, many people come here again and again, as there’s so much on offer.

Distribution at Bangkok Airport courtesy of Bangkok Airways.

Reservation Center: 1771 Samui Chaweng Office: 0 7760 1300 www.bangkokair.com

Please recycle or pass on to a friend.

soak up the serenity

1 & 2 Bedroom Villas starting from 2,490THB

Escape to Boujis Boutique Resort, an intimate cliffside retreat of 14 luxury villas with unparalleled ocean views of Chaweng.

Located Cliffside between Chaweng & Lamai - call 077 448 544

Mediterranean Cuisine Amidst a panoramic dreamscape that overlooks the pristine Crystal Bay, The Cliff warmly invites you to a truly unforgettable dining experience on Koh Samui.

Wine Spectator Award of Excellence 2014 & 2015 2014

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HAPA 2011 - 2013 Most Exquisite Dining Experience Most Trendy Casual Dining Restaurant Of The Year

Top Choice Award 2016

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"Thailand's Best Restaurants" 2005, 2006, 2007, 2009, 2011, 2013, 2014 & 2015

Reservations Essential For reservations please call 077 448 508 Bar daily 12pm - 2am

www.thecliffsamui.com

Kitchen opens 12pm - 10pm.

Choeng Mon

OPEN DAILY 09:30 AM - 06:00 PM Pink Elephant Samui Waterpark Maenam Soi 1, Koh Samui, Suratthani 84320 Tel: 077423548, 077270809

Email: samuiwp@gmail.com samuiwaterpark@gmail.com Web: www.samuiwaterpark.asia Facebook: www.facebook.com/waterparksamui IG: samuiwaterpark

Nathon

Chaweng

Maenam Soi 1

Immigration Office

Kwankao Restaurant

Kirikayan Luxury Pool Villas & Spa

Avanta Condominium

Samui Quads Buffalo Raceway

Paintball

CONTENTS 38

18 Capital Gains

A stroll through Samui’s capital, Nathon, will

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Fire Working displays in Thailand.

Thirteen unique years.

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38 Astounding Art

Nature Art Gallery’s treasure trove of hand-made jewellery, precious stones and beautiful accessories isn’t just impressive – it’s affordable, too.

44 The Equilibrium of Eating

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Thailand’s national sport, plus one of its greatest heroes, are now together on Samui – at Samart Payakaroon training gym!

Anodas Spa at Nora Buri Resort & Spa combines beautiful views with seriously good massage.

Big, Bright, Bold

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Water Water Water

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Pressing The Point An unpretentious but award-winning spa in a stunning setting – Tamarind Springs has a great deal to boast about!

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Building Minds and Schools SCL International School’s ambitious new building project dovetails with students’ happiness and performance.

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Making The Move These days it’s incredibly easy to come and live on Samui – and totally worth it.

Frogging Down The Hill One of Samui’s finest restaurants has very accommodatingly branched out – Dr Frogs!

122 Net Value Even though it’s a world-class tourist destination, Samui still relies very much on its fishing industry

The truth about water in, on, and around Samui – and it’s not all bad news!

Dancing the night away on Samui.

56 Muay Thai Excellence

110 An Ode to Health

Chaweng Lake’s Night Market is a feast not just for the eyes, but all the senses.

We explore a new culinary experience at one of the island’s most stylish resorts – The Library.

50 All Revved Up and Everywhere to go

Crucial Card to Carry

Trunk Trek Exploring Samui’s hidden interior on the back of an elephant.

W Retreat Koh Samui offers fabulous privileges with its new W Disruptor Card.

32 Coming Up A look at how a small coconut island slowly turned into one of the world’s leading holiday destinations.

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A look at what makes Samui Fireworks one of the safest and most spectacular pyrotechnic

always add something special to your holiday.

26 Chandra

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128 Endlessly Special Come in and discover the fantastic environment, service and facilities at Anantara Bophut Koh Samui Resort.

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Water Thrills For some of the best water fun on the island, head away from the sea to Samui Water Park Pink Elephant!

138 Trouble In Paradise Common holiday maladies: what they are and what to do about them.

T H E

H O M E

O F

I N S P I R E D

I N T E R I O R S

Phuket 424 Srisoonthorn Rd. Cherngtalay Tel/Fax: +66 (0) 76 325 419

Samui 9/18 Moo1 Maenam Tel/Fax: +66 (0) 77 247 675

info@oriental-living.net

www.oriental-living.net

Chaweng

Chaweng’s main beach is five kilometres in length and is lined with 5-star luxury resorts, boutique hotels, budget accommodation and great oceanfront restaurants.

Behind the resorts, the Chaweng Beach Road is filled with restaurants, bars, spas, shops, street stalls and mobile food vendors. The lake sits to the rear of them and is a wonderful place for an early morning walk or jog. Near the southern end of the lake is the Soi Reggae entertainment area which also has two Muay Thai boxing stadiums, a temple guarded by carved monkeys and the huge Laem Din market complex. All manner of fresh produce is delivered here every day and the adjoining Dow Seafood market is a hive of activity from the early hours.

Lamai

Samui’s second most popular beach is around four kilometres long and the waters are perfect for swimming. There’s plenty of choice in accommodation, restaurants, bars, spas and health resorts. It also has a free Muay Thai event every Saturday and just off the Beach Road there’s a children’s water park. Wat Lamai is home to a cultural centre and museum that houses artifacts of Samui life before the advent of tourism. On Sundays there’s a ‘Walking Street’ along part of the Beach Road.

And just outside of Lamai town on the ring-road is the famous Hin Ta-Hin Yai rock formations that has dozens of small local Thai restaurants around it.

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Mae Nam

Nestled on the northern shores of the island, Mae Nam Beach stretches for several kilometres and overlooks the neighbouring island of Koh Pha-Ngan. High-end resorts and beach bungalows are dotted along the coast and many visitors love it for its peacefulness, soft golden sands and wonderful views. It has seven side streets that meander into the mountains: from Soi 1 you can follow the road over the mountains all the way to Lamai; Soi 4 has a ‘Walking Street’ every Thursday from mid-afternoon and also houses an ornate Chinese temple overlooking the beach and a large Buddhist temple set a few hundred metres back from the ringroad; Soi 5 has a tree-top canopy adventure theme park a few kilometres into the hills; there’s a buffalo fighting stadium a couple of hundred metres off the main road between Soi 5 and Soi 6; an early morning market is also in Soi 6; an evening market near to Soi 7; and the world-class Santiburi Golf Course in the hills above Soi 7. There’re dozens of bars and restaurants in Mae Nam, many of which are on side roads that lead down to the ocean. And at the western end of the beach the Lomprayah ferry takes passengers to the neighbouring islands several times a day.

Island Insight An overall guide to Samui’s towns, villages, beaches and hotspots.

Samui is an idyllic tropical paradise. A blend of traditional Thai hospitality and remote island life has joined hands with modern traveller expectations. But the towns, villages and interior are home to much more than just luxury resorts, restaurants, bars and retail shops. And whilst the main beaches are recognised as some of the best in the world, there are also secluded coves and magical hideaways around many corners – if you know where to look. And this quick guide will point you in the right direction.

NathoN

This is the island’s main administrative centre and the major ferry port for boats to and from the mainland. There’re some hotels but it’s more a town you would visit for an afternoon rather than stay in. Beside the terminal, there’s a local food market every day from mid-afternoon until late in the evening. Along what is known as the ‘middle road’ there’re old teak shop-houses and small businesses and a ‘Walking Street’ on Saturdays. And on the one-way road that goes through the town there’re dozens of shops and restaurants. Just off the main road there’s an ornate Chinese temple and garden in Soi 4. And near the far end there’s a renowned open-air duck restaurant – just follow the crowds around lunchtime.

Bo Phut

Bo Phut is best known for Fisherman’s Village. It’s a single narrow street that still has authentic wooden houses that Samui folk have lived in for generations. Parts of it have been modernized but it’s still awash with local foods, international restaurants, bars, shops and market stalls. It becomes one huge ‘Walking Street’ every Friday and you’ll find lots of local delicacies that few other restaurants have. Along with small hotels, there’re several 5-star luxury resorts at the far end and the beach curves around a large bay that also overlooks Koh Pha-Ngan.

And small speedboats leave from the village pier heading for the Full Moon parties that take place there every month.

Big Buddha and Plai Laem

The magnificent golden Big Buddha statue that watches over the island from the north-east corner of Samui is one of the first things you see as you fly into Samui Airport. Built on a tiny island (Koh Farn) with a connecting causeway, it’s the most iconic image of the island. Many Thais pray at the temple so dressing and acting appropriately is expected when you enter the site. There’re some very good Thai restaurants and small stores around the temple. It also affords some beautiful views and along the road from it you’ll see another large Buddha image at Wat Plai Laem. Half-way along the road between the temples is a side road that cuts through to Choeng Mon. Down this road there’s access to some quiet secluded beaches, although some of them are through resorts.

Choeng Mon

Choeng Mon lies just 15 minutes or so from the middle of Chaweng but it seems like worlds away. There’s a small town that the road runs through with a couple of dozen restaurants and bars. The beach is a favourite for many locals as it’s quiet, picturesque and safe for swimming most of the year round. There’s every class of accommodation with some old-style beach bungalows at one end. And they all overlook the tiny deserted island of Koh Farn Noi which you can walk out to if the tide is low.

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Bang Rak

In between Fisherman’s Village and Big Buddha is where you’ll find Bang Rak. There’s a few very good resorts and some private villas for rent along the beachfront that stretches around for several kilometres and has stunning views.

Bars and restaurants line the main street and there’re two piers. The one nearest to Big Buddha has daily ferries to Koh Pha-Ngan, Koh Tao and on to the mainland port of Chumpon, from which a VIP bus takes passengers to Hua Hin and on to Bangkok. Start to finish, it’s a 12-hour journey with about half of it on the boat.

Just beside the ferry terminal in Bang Rak is one of the busiest fish markets on the island. Local fishermen drop their catches here and the place is bustling with people all day long. At the other end of town there’s a short-cut into Chaweng on a road called Soi Bond Kai (which the locals refer to as the ‘Ghost Road’).

Taling Ngam and Lipa Noi

The south-west part of the island is known as the ‘Virgin Coast’. It’s largely unspoiled with lots of secluded bays, although most of the shoreline tends to be rocky. The west coast overlooks the famous ‘five islands’ and some of the closer islands of the Angthong National Marine Park (which is a perfect getaway for a day’s boat trip excursion). In this part of the island there’re some hotels, private villas for rent, up-market and local restaurants and several temples of note, including two that house a mummified monk. A second car ferry terminal is located in Lipa Noi and, like the one in Nathon, boats to and from Donsak on the mainland arrive and depart every hour from 5:00 am until 6:00 pm (check for details). And inland on the island’s main ring-road there’re several large waterfall sites and a safari park with elephant trekking, animal shows and adventure tours. Further along, next to the Ford and Mazda dealers is a new Butterfly and Insect Kingdom Park.

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Hua Thanon

This predominately muslim village is home to the descendants of some of the island’s earliest settlers. There’s still a thriving fishing fleet and fish market and a natural coastline that’s survived the ravages of time. Just after the village (coming from Lamai) you can turn off the ring-road to the left and signs will direct you to the nearby Tiger Zoo, Aquarium and Sea-life Show, the Butterfly Farm, the Snake Farm and the local Rum Distillery.

Thong Krut

With its brightly coloured fishing boats and backdrop of small islands to the one side, and coconut plantations to the other, Thong Krut is a picturesque little village.

Located in the southwest corner of the island, this is where you’ll come if you’re after a long-tail boat to take you to the nearby islands of Koh Tan and Koh Matsum.

Lining the shore you’ll find a selection of simple restaurants offering Thai food, and particularly good seafood, as well as tour operators offering trips to the islands.

The Interior

Samui predominately consists of hills, mountains and coconut plantations. And few visitors make the time to appreciate its hidden beauty. One way to do so is to take the turning into Mae Nam Soi 1. A new road has recently been constructed that goes over the mountains all the way to Lamai. The drive is only about 20-25 minutes over 15 kilometres with a couple of stopping off areas that offer fabulous views. Another way to really get the full picture of Samui is from Tar Nim’s Magic Garden at the top of one of the island’s highest peaks. Built during a 25-year period by a local farmer the stone statues in the garden were sculpted by hand and sit over 2,000 feet above the beaches below.

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CHILL DIFFER ENT

Reservations: 077 458 100

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CAPITAL GAINS A stroll through Samui’s capital, Nathon, will always add something special to your holiday.

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If you like to read novels, especially Graham Green or Joseph Conrad, then you’ll find Nathon oddly familiar, even if you’ve never been there before. At first you might think it’s a case of déjà-vu, but a few moments later the strange truth will strike you: Nathon has stepped straight out of a novel. It’s exactly like one of those small seaside ports in the Tropics you’ve read about so many times, exotic, run-down and yet full of quirks.

But even if you’re not a great reader, Nathon will still end up leaving an impression on you. It seems purpose-built to beguile the traveller. This small port is the island’s capital, but it’s startlingly different from its bigger and far noisier neighbours, Chaweng, Lamai or Maenam. Unlike them, Nathon really seems relatively unchanged by the passing of time.

The best way to approach Nathon is by boat. Many holidaymakers still arrive this way and see the port gradually growing more distinct, yet always dwarfed by the high jungly hills just behind it. Slowly, dingy white harbour buildings appear, and it looks like any other small tropical port, half lost in the surrounding landscapes. From this angle Nathon can appear quite mysterious; a brooding destination that only gradually unfolds itself.

Approach via the ring-road and everything appears instantly. The buildings lining the road quickly become densely packed and you realize that you’re in a town. But there’s no depth to what you see.

Behind those dense buildings you’ll easily glimpse the jungle just a couple of hundred meters away. The trees look ready to encroach on the 20 l www.samuiholiday.com

concrete at any time. But it’s doubtful it’ll ever happen. Nathon is slowly expanding outwards and with the port being the chief entry for provisions from the mainland, it’s thriving.

If you want to see Nathon properly, then you’ll need to stroll through it.

Don’t drive round it, as you’ll not see much, and only get caught up in the circular one-way system; you’ll feel like a grip bag stuck on an airport baggage carousel. Instead, leave your car in the ample car park right by the main pier. Walk up the small street that’s directly in front of it, passing Nathon Books, and you’ll see ahead of you the town hall and police station. Depending on when you arrive you might see a couple off to get formally wed at the registry office or a group of police officers getting started on their day’s work.

Turn right on to the ring-road and you’ll be walking along Nathon’s main street. You’ll realize it’s quite a contradictory kind of place. It’s both very sleepy and buzzing all at the same time. While a shop-owner dozes on a deckchair in his store, just metres away trucks rumble as fast as they dare along the road. Every time a ferry arrives, it’s all go.

And once nightfall comes, it’s all stop. Nathon closes early. Shutters roll down with an echoing clunk and vendors disappear inside their shops.

The streets clear. After 8:00 pm there’s hardly any traffic. It can be disquieting. Why is there no-one around?

But head to the night market at the port and you’ll find it filled with

people, while the rest of the town remains eerily deserted. Couples and families eat and drink at the little tables which are set up in the middle of the market area. Prices are very cheap and everything you buy can be taken away.

The night market aside, any stroll in Nathon is therefore best taken during the day, before twilight falls – the very opposite to Chaweng, where strolling is mandated for after dark. As you continue along the main street, you’ll be side-tracked by all the shopping possibilities; there are thousands and thousands of t-shirts on offer, most at great prices (don’t forget to bargain), but once you get to the unmissable and very orange Thanachart Bank, keep your eyes open for the small turning just to the side of it. An unexpected sight awaits all who aren’t distracted by the clothing: a brightly-painted Chinese temple.

It’s odd how many people manage to miss it – blame it on the t-shirts – as it’s one of Samui’s most impressive buildings, and deservedly so.

The temple was built by Hainanese immigrants when they came to Koh Samui, around the beginning of the 20th Century. It’s covered in bright murals and you’re welcome to step inside, where you’ll find a number of mini-shrines, all finely decorated, along with gods, goddesses and mythical animals. The temple is still a focus of attention, and plays an important part in Nathon life. Don’t be fooled by the goats grazing in the field outside or the washing drying outside the nearby houses – this is the cultural and geographical centre of the town. www.samuiholiday.com l 21

If you go back to the ring-road and continue a little way along it, you’ll come to a large covered market on the left, teeming with people and with colourful produce stacked high on stalls. Here you can stock up on cheap and delicious fruit; it comes from farms and orchards on Samui as well as from mainland Suratthani. A bit further on you’ll come to Tang Restaurant, known for its delicious food, where you can enjoy a meal for around 80 baht.

Head back to the Thanachart Bank, cross the ring-road and you’ll be in a small road which goes down to the sea. In this lane you’ll find two shops selling all manner of bags, rucksacks and suitcases – again prices are cheap. Take the first turn on the left and you’ll find yourself in what’s called Middle Street. It has some fine examples of Chinese shophouses, all made of wood and featuring interiors that seem to have hardly changed over the years. Were it not for the cars and bikes parked outside, you might believe you’d suddenly stepped back a few decades in time.

At the end of Middle Street, turn right and you’ll find yourself heading down towards the sea. There’s alas no beach in Nathon. A sea-wall with

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water lapping at its base makes a fine enough place to sit and watch the west coast sunsets, but any swimming is out of the question. (If you’re really dying for a swim, simply walk to the end of town on the south side, and where the road turns, you’ll find a sandy beach. Walk a little further on and it gets better. For a proper beach, you’ll need to head a few kilometres south to Lipa Noi.) Meanwhile, depending on the season, you may see lots of little fishing boats, mostly painted in bright colours.

If you’re here in the evening and the tide’s low, then you’ll probably see a farmer or two taking their buffaloes for a walk along the mud-flats.

Continue along the road and you’ll find yourself passing ticket offices for the ferries, and soon you’ll see the point where you started your stroll.

Nathon is definitely the most traditional of all Samui’s towns, though it’s never staid. It’s perhaps an enduring monument to the way life used to be lived on the island, and as such is a great place to visit. Authentically Thai, it has charms of its own and it’s well-worth spending some time here.

Dimitri Waring

The magic is real, naturally.

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rock pools herbal steam cave superb massage 080 569 6654, 098 963 6449, 084 469 4042

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CHANDRA Thirteen unique years.

Chandra. One name: many meanings. Thirteen years of moving forward. Hand-made quality: the finest of fabrics.

Timeless tropical & summer styles for around the world.

Boho + island + chic = Chandra. Dana and Barak – partners in always. Chandra is the process in every way. Conceived + drawn + hand-crafted. Chandra = design in detail and detailed by design. Hand-made, hand-finished, hand-checked.

Chandra – holistic. First is the struggle of conception. Born with style. Cotton. Linen. Rayon. Silk. The clarity of fabric, first dyed, then printed. Cut, created and made real. Barak = Mars . Dana = Venus .

Two sensations. Two collections. Two parts of the same whole.

Seasonal collections for women and for men. Accessories. Together, everything fits. Swimwear. Wraps & scarves. Belts & jewellery.

Vibrant + chic + colour + style = Chandra.

Chandra – 13 years of spirit. First, at the heart of Chaweng, now in Phuket, too. International flair. Light of heart. Casual. Timeless. Chandra I is in Chaweng next to Tropical Murphy’s. Chandra II is opposite Central Festival Mall.

Be inspired by the vision – www.chandra-exotic.com Fashion designers: Dana Cohen & Barak Weiss.

Photographer: Barak Weiss.

Styling: Dana Cohen.

Shooting locations: Villa Samudra Koh Samui, W Retreat Koh Samui, Iniala Beach House Phuket, Tamarind Springs Spa Koh Samui, Waterfall Villa Koh Samui, Villa InAsia Koh Samui, Villa Akasha Koh Samui.

Models: Chanok Sayoungkul, Pex Chayanee, Rodsathorn Jiarakorn, Matthiew Inglese, Ornat Paladsongkhram, Julien Mouzet, Guitar Chayanun, Maythavee Weiss.

CHANDRA. One name: many meanings. 13 years of moving forward

COMING UP A look at how a small coconut island slowly turned into one of the world’s leading holiday destinations.

Now here’s the thing. In the year 1900, there were just seven million people in all of Thailand. And it’s a pretty shrewd guess that maybe only 100 of these had ever heard of Koh Samui. Well – except for the folks who actually lived here, that is! You have to be aware that Thailand was an autocracy right the way up until 1932, with a tiny ruling class and a great many peasants. Although it’s probable that even the privileged few that were aristocrats didn’t know either. But it’s certain that the King did.

Plus a few of his inner circle. Because, as it happened, he came here quite a lot.

HRH King Chulalongkorn, more usually referred to as ‘Rama V’ was, and still is, Thailand’s most beloved historical monarch. Following the social reforms begun by his father, he travelled extensively outside Thailand (then Siam) – a thoughtful and diplomatic ambassador for his nation.

Keep it in mind that those were the days of steamships and that trips were both lengthy and exhausting. And so it was that Rama V, and his royal entourage, started to take small breaks – a week or so on Koh PhaNgan – prior to returning to his state duties. In all he stayed there on 14 occasions. And although it’s not well documented, he is known to have visited Samui a number of times, too.

Thailand’s record of history is a lot patchier than many Western nations.

Therefore, there is very little in the way of documented evidence that relates to Samui before this time. There’s one isolated and puzzling

artefact, a 900 year-old bronze drum discovered on Samui in 1977, which has led historians to speculate that there might have been settlements here for the previous 1,500 years. But other than this one solitary enigmatic relic, the only evidence that Samui even existed prior to Rama V are the maps and journals of European seafarers. Plus, of course, the surviving records of a great many Chinese pirates!

Looking at the global map, you’ll notice that, directly south of the enormous landmass of China, there’s the Philippines, Malaysia, Borneo and Indonesia, with the Gulf of Thailand tucked in over to the west. And this was the Chinese route to the south, via the sheltered coastline of eastern Thailand. This is why there is such a strong Chinese influence all along the southern part of this coast, particularly on the accommodating shores of Samui.

At which point you can doze a bit while we fast-forward several hundred years through the Age of Discovery, zip respectfully past Rama V, and come to rest at the eve of World War 2. Although Thailand wasn’t directly involved in this war, it was an ally of the Japanese. And, cutting a long story short, this event left a great deal of motorised engineering equipment in its wake. All of this was added to 20 years later, as American forces established air bases across the nation. The point being? For the first time, there was heavy equipment on the mainland of Thailand, and this was just the job for sorting out Samui! www.samuiholiday.com l 33

Before the 1970s, Samui consisted of a couple of dozen big extended families, each of them based in their own sheltered coves around the island. There was no road. People moved from one place to another by boat. But, slowly over the period of a decade, the heavy equipment brought from the mainland ploughed a broad dirt track all around, using dynamite to blast away the several rock outcrops that previously had been insurmountable. And, in 1973, the final concrete sections completed the venture.

By the ’70s, the ‘road to Kathmandu’ had become an established hippie trail, but one that was wearing a bit thin. Travellers now ventured further 34 l www.samuiholiday.com

abroad, discovering the unspoiled joys of Samui on the way to setting up communes in Bali. And with the gradual trickle of these strange foreigners, came the islander’s response; build more little huts for them to rent! Regular scheduled ferries began to replace the hassles of having to find an obliging fisherman to take you across. Cars and trucks grew in number. And, steadily but surely, right up until the late ’80s, the number of Samui’s little family-owned huts by the sea increased, as did the restaurant and shops which appeared to supplement these and cash-in on the increasing popularity of the island. Now, for the first time, Samui was attracting investors from the mainland.

Everything culminated in 1989, with a turning point in the island’s fortunes; the completion of Samui’s airport. Almost overnight, this prompted further investment and speculation, leading to a crop of 4- and 5-star resorts being built. Suddenly the price of beachfront land began to rise, as more and more little family-owned resorts sold out to developers.

Chaweng prospered rapidly, being close to the new airport. But, in turn, this led to new investors turning towards Lamai, as the price of land in Chaweng became prohibitive.

By the time Samui was heading towards the tail end of the 20th century, it was firmly on the international map. And yet it remained astonishingly rustic! In 1998, there was only one international ATM cash machine on the entire island, and that was in Nathon. There was only one 7-11; also in Nathon. And just one bakery – yes, in Nathon! Although the ringroad was concrete, both Chaweng and Lamai still had only dirt roads: pitted and dusty in summer, and flooded mud flats when it rained. Big motorbikes were such a rarity that people stopped and stared. And, in those days, there were few families to be seen vacationing here, rather the nightlife and bar-scene flourished, and the vast majority of visitors were young Westerners.

And then, in the mid-2000s, came the international name brands of the 5-star hotels. Families began to dominate. People came here to marry.

And, finally, coming up to date, the doors were opened for the Russian speaking nations, alongside a flood of Koreans, and now China is on the move, too. Weighing it all up – that’s pretty good history for a little coconut island!

Rob De Wet 36 l www.samuiholiday.com

Welcome to Morya Pharmacy, your one-stop healthcare destination on Samui. 欢迎来到苏梅岛度假胜地之一的 Morya Pharmacy The new definition of a full service pharmacy. 以全方位服务理念为新定义的药房

The best and largest range of healthcare and organic products, gifts and souvenirs on Samui. 是苏梅岛规模最大，产品最优的生产有机产品、 礼品和纪念品的制造保健中心

ASTOUNDING ART Nature Art Gallery’s treasure trove of hand-made jewellery, precious stones and beautiful accessories isn’t just impressive – it’s affordable, too.

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Photographer (Nature Art) 40 l www.samuiholiday.com

- Uziel Amir

From the moment the first human reached down into a river and plucked out a glittering gem, polished by the water flowing over it, there has been a market for precious stones and the jewellery that can be fashioned out of rocks, crystals, silver, gold and all the precious metals that nature has given us. But over the years – centuries – jewellery has come to be associated with a massive price tag. Collecting jewellery seems to be a game only the wealthy can play – unless you opt for cheap, mass-produced pieces. It takes a heroic mind-set to create artefacts that are original – and then to sell them, not at outrageous prices, but at decidedly affordable ones.

In the crowded mass-markets of today, good small-production jewellers are as valued as the pieces they make. These are the people who are dedicated to their art, and have taken quite a few risks to bring you jewellery that’s very different and filled with inventive flair. How they manage to do this while keeping their prices down is their own secret – but the rest of us can enjoy wearing what they’ve so painstakingly made for us.

Step into any of the four Nature Art Gallery stores, and you’ll instantly recognize that you’re somewhere that’s markedly different to the average jewellers. Focus on any square inch in any of the stores, and you’ll find it spotless. Floors and ceilings are all natural wood and shine with cleanliness.

The display cases are devoid of any dust. The entire premises are well-lit, airy and spacious – the ideal place to browse. Staff are friendly and all speak English; they can help you if you have any questions.

What you’ll find here is an amazing treasure trove. And all of it is a delight to the eye. You’ll see some large displays of precious stones, all of which have beguiling colours. Unlike in some stores you’re free to touch them and pick them up. In fact, you’re encouraged to do just this. Many of the stones have qualities that are said to be beneficial. Just by handling particular stones you’ll sense the differences between them and you’ll probably discover one or two that somehow make an impact on you, giving you a sense of optimism, say, or calm. You can pick up a semi-precious stone or some jewellery for as little as 200 baht. There’s a whole array of prices, so that there’s always something you’ll find that looks beautiful and matches your budget.

Each store is also packed with just about every kind of adornment you could wish for. There are all kinds of jewellery, and accessories, too, such as belts and bags. You’ll find both ancient and modern designs – as well as everything in-between. But what unifies all these pieces is the detail and the artistry. And when you look more closely still, you’ll see that everything in the store, like the stones themselves, is made to last; there’s not just quality but durability, too. We’re all too familiar, especially in the modern age, with things that will fall apart. This isn’t the case at Nature Art Gallery; here, the craftsmanship is evident. www.samuiholiday.com l 41

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But what if you’d like something that you can’t see in the store? In-house designers are on hand to help you, and they can design a simple piece for you in as little as a couple of hours or days. (If it’s something more elaborate, it’ll take longer.) You’ll find there’s almost nothing that they cannot do. Most often they’ll use materials that are already in the store, such as the crystals or stones. The rest they complete in their workshop, producing some amazing designs in gold, silver and other materials.

Nature Art Gallery is the brainchild of a master jeweller, Micha Trav. As a child he always had a fascination for precious stones, and later on, while travelling in India, he chanced upon a jeweller who trained him in the art of producing unique pieces that incorporated precious stones.

He went on to learn the trade thoroughly, and today, years later, his passion is still unabated. He eventually came to Thailand and settled first on Koh Pha-Ngan, doing what he knew best: making jewellery. But not the ratty pieces that you can find pretty much everywhere; he poured in his creativity and made everything as beautiful as possible. People liked his work. They liked his prices, too. He steadily increased his business and soon knew he needed a partner – he couldn’t be a one man band forever. Sheer maintenance, he knew, can pull you under – and sap all your creativity to boot. Luckily Micha was able to team up with Shai Nissim, a friend, and together the team went on to open the four stores they have today. Two are on Koh Pha-Ngan, in Haad Rin, and two are on Samui, where Micha is now based. Nature Art Gallery’s stores are open daily from 10:00 am until midnight, giving you plenty of time for a visit. You’ll find the main store on Chaweng’s beach road opposite the

southern exit of Central Festival. And Samui’s other Nature Art Gallery branch is a couple of minutes away on the upper floor of Central Festival itself.

One of the main precepts that Nature Art Gallery has is that everything is natural. As well as stones, you’ll therefore see leather, shells, coconuts, various woods and even more unexpected items such as elephant hair.

The last is used as a braid for gold and stones and can even be inlaid in a ring. As you can imagine, the diversity of pieces is quite remarkable, just using natural materials. Micha and Shai collect these from all over the world, some from very obscure spots, and once they’re in the store, they can be transformed into beautiful wearable objects.

A visit to Nature Art Gallery is always a treat. It’s like walking into a palace filled with various treasures – something very unexpected. Every so often on your travels, if they’re extensive enough, that is, you’ll come across places like this, but they’re relatively rare. For bright, creative and hand-made jewellery, Nature Art Gallery is a distinguished departure.

It’s equally a place to return to, as there are always new designs and surprises on display.

Dimitri Waring ______________________________________ For further information, telephone 0 7742 2594. www.thailand-jewellery.com

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THE EQUILIBRIUM

OF EATING We explore a new culinary experience at one of the island’s most stylish resorts – The Library.

Samui’s changed a lot in the last ten years. Our island had been emerging, growing, for quite some time, but then there was a kind of watershed, a tipping point, around about a decade ago. This was the time when, suddenly, all the big international hotel chains began to appear at once, each keen to stake a better and more exclusive slice of Samui. And hot on their heels scampered all the lesser gods, all of them glittering hopefully, and most of them verging on 5-star in rating, if not actually in name. They came complete with the very latest in worldclass architectural fashion. Thus it came about that Samui suffered a sudden style-rash involving vast expanses of plain concrete and wide, empty spaces offset by scrubbed wooden decks, ‘plain’ fabrics such as unbleached jute and linen, and with ‘natural’ earth tones splashed everywhere around.

Except for one. While others were keen to be seen following the leaders in style, this one wasn’t. This particular resort didn’t follow anyone. This resort didn’t do things in style, it did them with style. It wrote, designed, realised, and then created, its own specific genre, according to the unique vision of its owner. It picked out some of the brightest young stars from Bangkok; artists, 3-D designers, textile and fashion innovators. And

Located on the tropical stretch of golden sands and turquoise waters off Koh Samui’s up market Bophut bay, Beach Bar offers wide variety of cocktails, champagne, wines, snacks, delicious home made ice cream and freshly blended fruit drink Come and join our happy hour as day turns to dusk before strolling down to the quaint cobblestone ‘Bophut Fisherman village’ Good things come in three, enjoy our Happy Hours daily at

01:30 - 02:30 pm 06:30 - 07:30 pm 09:30 - 10:30 pm

- buy one get one free -

they all talked, worked and stayed together here on Samui until it took shape and was completed, in 2006. Even the name was obliquely tantalising. It was simply . . . The Library.

And here’s the thing. Whereas some resorts seem to work to a formula and mechanically apply it to everything – layout, furniture, décor, soft furnishings, and fabrics – The Library doesn’t. The essentials are consistent, yes; the geometric motif of the buildings with their blocky structure and fully-opening walls of wood and glass, for instance. Or the predominance of the colour white. But the design brief changes when it comes to the smaller things. Now the theme is ‘There Is No Theme’. And this Zen approach means that the plates in the restaurant might be anything from slabs of granite to intriguing chunks of wood (and every other material you can imagine in-between). Or even the seats in their fascinating giant cube of glass on the main road outside (entitled Drink Gallery); each of which is different and most of which are quirkily custom-made. Or the cocktail glasses, which are a constant excitement, and might be anything from a tiny metal watering can to a row of antique Peruvian pickle jars.

HANSAR SAMUI

101/27-28 Moo 1, Bophut Koh Samui 84320 Thailand +66 77 245 511 | www.hansarsamui.com

Each of the accommodations is numbered in accord with the ‘library’ theme; the first of them is Page 1, the next is Page 2, and so on. And then, just when you were getting the hang of this, you’ll walk down past the (deep red) swimming pool and notice, on your right and at the edge of the beach, The Page. It’s another little quirk. Because this is the resort’s signature fine-dining restaurant. It’s open on two sides – a ‘room’ which extends out onto a broad wooden deck that fringes the beach.

This room continues the ‘white’ theme, with crisp snowy walls and tables and everything very simple and geometric. But you can’t keep a good quirk down, and thus it pops out at you again with the menus (huge, and heavily-edged with strips of brass). But the content is elegantly, simply and clearly laid out – one menu for daytime and another for evening dining.

All the design ideas at The Library are creative and inspired. They are integral, not distracting or superfluous. And so the menu is not only of a similarly-elevated fine-dining standard but, in its own sphere, is equally as innovative and quite possibly unique. First let it be said that the cuisine is divided into ‘East’ and ‘West’. Featuring prominently on the ‘West’ is the legendary ‘Wagyu’ section for which The Library has become famous. All the selections here are MBS 9+ – so dreamily tender that you can cut them with your fork. And with them, in the ‘Mains’ grouping, you’ll find grilled Kurobuta pork chops, together with bases of duck, lobster, tuna, salmon, seabass and kingfish, alongside a refined selection of starters and soups. Each of these dishes is exquisite in its own right.

But such is the excitement when it comes to the ‘East’ part of the menu that it’s in danger of stealing the show!

It’s a simple enough concept: the way the Thai people eat their food is unlike the Western pattern where one dish arrives by itself, to then be replaced by the next course. Rather, the Thais sit around a collection of dishes and take a little from each of these to their plate, in different combinations. Thus the Thai elements of sweet, sour, salty, spicy and 48 l www.samuiholiday.com

bitter are balanced and combined together in taste bud complements, according to individual preference. However, here at The Page, they’ve introduced another dimension, that of texture. Thus there is also a whole new adventure with the added possibilities of neutral, nutty, soft, crisp and waxy. It’s not unlike the principle of wine-pairing, but with multidimensionally more potential combinations, contrasts and harmonies.

With the à la carte menu, there’s a wide choice of items, but the trained staff are at hand to advise and recommend differing combinations.

But this is just the machinery of the meal – how it all fits together on the table. Even more exciting are the dishes themselves. The chefs at The Page have been collecting old recipes; ancient and/or traditional dishes from all over Thailand, some of them virtually rescued from oblivion, and others with rare ingredients which are now not so easy to obtain. In times gone by, extended families were large enough to be almost a clan. And on religious or festive occasions when all the clans gathered together, each of them would contribute a ‘signature’ dish. Hence the ‘set menu’ that’s on offer in the daytime, the ‘Kin Hor’, a showcase of five dishes unique to Koh Samui.

And on the evening dining menu there’s the superb 11-dish ‘Samrab Thai’, a collection of similarly-unique dishes designed to represent the essence of the collective Thai dining experience, in which all at the table are invited to participate and share. It’s an exceptional event, featured only here at The Library in Chaweng, where they have elevated the ‘equilibrium of eating’ to a gastronomic art-form.

Rob De Wet

____________________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7742 2767-8. www.thelibrary.co.th

Psylo Full page

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ALL REVVED UP AND EVERYWHERE TO GO Dancing the night away on Samui.

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Calm by day, and a place where you can find hammocks slung between coconut trees, Koh Samui is a place where indolence reins by day, and people drink pink daiquiris by the poolside. It appears so relaxed that you’d be forgiven for thinking that once the sun goes down and dinner is over, then it’s time to turn in.

Of course, you can still have a very laid-back holiday and quiet evenings, and many people opt for precisely that. But the island has another side to it, like a multiple personality: it’s at night that its hedonistic side comes to the fore. Word has long since gone round that the nightlife here is on the extreme edge of fun. Even without neighbouring Koh Pha-Ngan’s infamous full moon party, Samui’s nights are the stuff of legend. You can check out lots of blog posts detailing what visitors get up to – somehow they manage to remember what happened – or you can take part in all the fun yourself, and party on the beach or in the clubs until the sun comes up, continuing for as long as you can hold out.

There’s an immense degree of choice when it comes to after-hours Samui. Much of it is fuelled by beer and cheap whisky, often served in small buckets. There are numerous places to start the night with a drink or cocktail or two, amongst them the unusual Bar Ice, where you can drink in a literally chilled-out environment – temperatures are sub-zero.

Staff hand out winter clothing at the door. It’ll be the only time you need wear anything as warm as this.

You may well want to try one of the thatched-roof beach bars that abound on the island. Sit and drink on a deckchair or at a low table on the sands whilst gazing out to sea. For one that’s hidden away, try the Black Rose Bar near Lomprayah ferry in Maenam.

If you want a drink in very sophisticated surroundings, head for Woobar at W Retreat Koh Samui, at the other end of the bay.

If you’re visiting a few nightspots, the best way to travel is by taxi, especially if you’re in a group. Your main port of call will be Chaweng, as it has lounge clubs, bars of every kind and night clubs a-plenty. Lamai is Chaweng’s little sister when it comes to nightlife, but has a more visible seedy side than Chaweng.

Soi Green Mango, just off the beach road in Chaweng is a small but very raucous area filled with bars, and the enormous Green Mango Club, which for many is party central on Samui; it’s wellknown for its catchy tree house design, multiple bars and spacious dance floors. Sound Club, meanwhile, gets going a bit later and gets crowded after midnight. DJs spin some of the latest music and it’s an incredibly popular venue.

Down the beach road, you’ll find Ark Bar Beach Resort, right on the sands, and when night falls, it’s well-known as a bar and nightclub for those who’d like to seriously party. With DJs, pool parties and firedancing, the venue is a reveller’s destination in its own right.

About two kilometres away, just off the road that hugs the northern edge of Chaweng Lake, you’ll find Q-Bar, situated high up on a hill, offering great DJs, an impressive drinks list and a terrace for wonderful views.

On the shores of the lake itself, on Soi Reggae, you’ll find one of Samui’s veritable institutions, the Reggae Pub, which was the original party spot for the island. The cavernous interior can hold hundreds and is dominated by a big dance floor. There are plenty of DJ’s and live bands playing to crowds nightly. It’s especially popular in the small hours.

For an even more hard-core party scene, you’ll have to head over to Koh Pha-Ngan and the Full Moon Party at Haad Rin Beach. It certainly lives up to its reputation, and often manages to exceed it. It started a couple of decades back, when someone decided to celebrate a birthday and somehow became a monthly fixture, with more and more people attending. Snowballing its way through the years, a good night can see more than 10,000 people revelling on the sands. Even though it’s held outdoors, it’s not for the claustrophobic, as you’ll be dancing shoulderto-shoulder in many places. But Samui has enough of a party scene that many people who live here and who enjoy a great time just don’t see the need to take a boat across the water for the night. Parties here on Samui are also now staged to coincide with full moon, half-moon and even black moon, adding still more incentive to simply stay put.

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Last but not least, it has to be said that late night Samui can have an eerie edge to it. In the wee hours, all daylight rationality may have disappeared, and many holidaymakers end up doing things that astound them once the alcohol has worn off. People wander off and go missing for so many hours that their friends make the rounds of all the hospitals.

Others end up in one night stands that may have lasting effects on their health, as well as their wallets. Nothing really surprising about any of this – but over and over again, we hear about holidaymakers and residents who just didn’t look after themselves. And of course driving while drunk is always a bad idea. And on Samui, for many, it’s the last idea they ever have.

The vast majority of revellers have a very good time, however, with nothing nasty to report the following day, apart from perhaps a megahangover. When daylight breaks, Chaweng and Lamai settle down to catch up on their sleep, and the streets are deserted until it’s time to wake up again and groggily head through another afternoon until evening comes again.

Samui’s nightlife is engagingly hedonistic and keeps people coming back for more. For some visitors, holidays aren’t for winding down at all, but for the very opposite. Whatever happens, nightlife here on the island is always guaranteed to be memorable, though whether in a positive or negative sense it’s up to you. Mostly.

Dimitri Waring

HAND-MADE JEWELRY MADE TO ORDER. GOLD, SILVER, LEATHER, PRECIOUS AND SEMI PRECIOUS STONES. TWO LOCATIONS IN CHAWENG: 1ST: CHAWENG BEACH ROAD, PHONE: +(66)0 7742 2594 2ND: CENTRAL FESTIVAL SAMUI 2ND FLOOR, PHONE: +(66)0 7796 3811 WWW.THAILAND-JEWELRY.COM Nature Art Gallery Central Festival Samui CHAWENG BEACH ROAD

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MUAY

THAI EXCELLENCE

Thailand’s national sport, plus one of its greatest heroes, are now together on Samui – at Samart Payakaroon training gym!

Thailand is an ancient and venerable country. It values and upholds its customs and traditions. There are many things in the Thai culture that are considered sacred and beyond reproach. But there are modern Thai legends, too. Newer things, perhaps just a few hundred years old, but arising from deeper roots. I’m not talking about fads like football or food. But I am delving into what’s emerged to become the national sport of Thailand. It’s a blend of tradition and custom, a combination of mind and body, and a celebration of success and achievement. And all of this comes together in the discipline of Muay Thai boxing.

A generation ago, few people outside of Thailand would have been familiar with this sport. Sure, everyone knows of Bruce Lee and Kung Fu. And martial arts centres and dojos are nothing new. But it’s only been in the last few years or so that the discipline of Muay Thai has been taken seriously on an international level. This is partly due to the immediacy of social media. Plus a broader base of internationally televised fighting styles – free-style fighting, mixed martial arts and cage fighting. And partly it’s due to legends like Khun Samart Payakaroon.

Khun Samart has been fighting competitively since he was barely into his teens. But he progressed to become the champion of champions.

He held the coveted Lumpini National Championship title not just one time, but on four successive occasions. And then went on to become an international ambassador for Muay Thai, and fight his way to a World Boxing Council championship title and belt, along with two other international championships of honour.

He wasn’t just good, he was exceptional. And a large part of this was because he developed a personal style which made him virtually untouchable. In Muay Thai, elbows and knees are used both in attack and in defence. And normally a stretching kick – the front push kick (‘teep’ in the Thai language) – is used for attack. But Khun Samart perfected this as a continual means of defence; his opponents couldn’t get near him. And then, with his lightning speed and reflexes, was able to instantly switch to a thundering offensive attack, which left the competition reeling. To this day, one of his honorary titles is still ‘Payak Nayoke’ – the one who has never taken a cut. And that’s over the course of more than 160 professional fights! www.samuiholiday.com l 57

Time and tide, together with age, wait for no man. And so it eventually came to pass that Khun Samart had to broaden his arena. He was invited to appear in firstly Thai movies, and then international ones. He opened what was to become one of the most famous Muay Thai training camps anywhere, in Bangkok. He toured abroad, as a personal trainer for championship fighters, and then as an ambassador for the Muay Thai discipline, establishing training centres, advising trainers and promoting the Muay Thai ethos. But he never lost touch with his heritage, and he always maintained his greatest love; training, teaching and encouraging the disciples of Muay Thai. And now he has opened his second Thai gym and training centre, in Bang Po, on the north coast of Samui.

“This is a holiday island,” he told me. “And I want to make this new gym more than just a place to learn to fight. You can’t begin to fight unless you are fit. And you can’t become fit unless you are healthy. All these things are wrapped up together – the mental discipline and ritual of

Muay Thai, and the physical discipline and training you need to go with this. Health, diet, training and lifestyle. And when all this comes together, then maybe we can teach you how to fight!”

The result of this considered approach is that Khun Samart’s gleaming new gym offers a variety of different programs, entirely depending on your attitude and inclination. One huge plus is that he has twinned himself with the adjoining Natural Wing Spa & Resort.

And so the herbal steam, massage, and healthy-eating restaurant are incorporated into the sphere of his gym. And thus he is able to accommodate guests who just want to keep fit and follow a personal exercise program, as well as those who want maintain their health in friendly and convivial surroundings. Plus, of course, he’s as keen as mustard to foster those who already have some experience in Muay Thai boxing.

It’s taken a great deal of thought and planning – ably assisted and administered by his wife and PR agent, Khun Ning. But there are now a number of options open to interested visitors or residents. There are packages which include accommodation as well as training, exercise routines and sparring. Or you can choose something less strenuous, such as keep fit or self-defence, on a day-to-day basis. If you feel the need to align yourself with a personal trainer, you can. If you want a custommade plan of diet and exercise, just ask. And if you want to learn how to improve your existing Muay Thai skills and be advised and instructed by one of the greatest-ever Thai fighters, well, all you have to do is to come along and sign up!

There is a staff of three full-time professional trainers, together with four proven award-winning professional fighters, plus associated support staff. There’s also the Beach Club, right next to the gym, with a restaurant serving a range of healthy (and fun, too!) snacks, meals and drinks. There are sunbeds, loungers, bean bags, and some of the best swimming on the island. Also Wi-Fi, if you just want to drop in and lounge about.

Khun Samart is personally here for only half of the time – he shares his presence between the new venture here and his dedicated band of followers in Bangkok. But you can schedule and book personal time with him if you wish. Or you can take advantage of one the three new training packages (instruction, healthy eating, massage and steam – half day or full-day). If that’s what you fancy, Khun Samart will be present to train you. But either way, and whatever your needs, this new gym and all its facilities represent the best of Muay Thai – in all its excellence!

Rob De Wet

____________________________________________________________ For further information, telephone 0 847 077 094 or 0 898 113 387. www.samart-payakaroon.com

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treat yourself at least once the dining room

Probably the most beautiful restaurant on the island and definitely the best food. Dine outside on the rocks by the sea or inside the open air ‘dining room’.

Our exceptional chef and his team present a wonderful cross-over of Mediterranean and delicious French cuisine.

The Dining Room is open every day for lunch and dinner.

We hold regular events and often live music.

Rocky’s Boutique REsort, Koh Samui.

Reservations 077 233 020 dining@rockyresort.com www.rockyresort.com.

On the ringroad just south of Lamai.

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FIRE WORKING A look at what makes Samui Fireworks one of the safest and most spectacular pyrotechnic displays in Thailand.

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Folks are fascinated with fireworks. In Europe they’re tightly regulated and every show pulls a crowd of thousands, but Thailand is much more easy going. Anyone can buy fireworks at any time, and there are no real laws about using them. As a result, every night, somewhere on Samui, you’ll hear or see another thumping cascade of lights spreading across the heavens. It’s so common as not to be special any more. But it is!

No matter how often it happens, people will come out of the bars and restaurants, onto the streets and beaches, all staring, mesmerised, at the sky.

learning, and eventually helping to set and check the fireworks. “I was only 14,” he told me with a grin, “but I was adopted like a mascot.

These big once-a-year events, like on New Year’s Eve, take months of planning and need a big team, all working in complete synchronisation, to make it both safe and workable. This was my ‘apprenticeship’. I learned every single element of putting together a show, and how to do it properly and safely.” Time passed and Alan qualified as an engineer, but still followed his obsession, even inventing new forms of electronic triggering devices and time-lapse sequencers.

Enter, stage left, an Englishman by the name of Alan Brewis. He was born and bred in Sunderland. And, even as a young man, had something strange about him! You know how quite often you’ll hear a top chef say that he always wanted to cook? Well Alan, from as far back as he can remember, was always utterly obsessed with fireworks. When he was a kid, on Fireworks Night, he’d go around the streets, from one back alley to another, organising the other kids into a series of parties, and pooling all the penny-fireworks together to make one big street show after another.

Fast-forward to 2001. After many sorts of ups and downs along the way, Alan had arrived to stay on Samui. “I spent a while looking around for a way of making a living,” he continued. “And it didn’t take long to realise that there was a big gap in the market. Thailand was becoming the weddings capital of Asia. And Samui was rapidly going the same way.

So I opened a firework shop, and started to hire myself out for parties and festive occasions. And things just got bigger and bigger!”

After a few years, he’d graduated to become a fireworks-show groupie.

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Today, Samui Fireworks has evolved into a trained and experienced group which numbers 10 to 12 people. Each of the three teams has an overall leader supervising several ‘jobbers’ who fetch and carry, plus a ‘setup’ who places and connects things all together. And the leader and

chef’s dinner specials

Overseeing the culinary team at Hansar Samui, born and raised in Montreal, Canada, Chef Stephen began his culinary career at the famed restaurant Les Halles in Quebec, one of the most outstanding independent restaurants in Canada.

A unique opportunity to be the Private Chef to His Majesty the King of Jordan became a turning point in his career and he spent the next two years catering for the Royal Family.

HANSAR

Stephen spent the next five years at the Lebua at State Tower Bangkok (known as the Dome) and within a few years became the Executive Chef at the Sirocco restaurant.

At our beachfront H Bistro restaurant, Stephen has created a unique epicurean experience for guests where they can appreciate the authentic taste of French Mediterranean Cuisine, in addition to a Thai menu.

the setup double-check each other, so that the final set up is all triple checked in every respect. “But,” added Alan, “that’s the last stage of the process. I personally go to each site several days in advance and do a site check and risk assessment. And every now and then I have to turn a job down. We’re far too close to the spectators, perhaps. Or there are too many buildings close-by. Or even that, because of a long period of no rain, we’re surrounded by long grass that’s bone-dry. I will not risk damage to people or property, even if I have to reluctantly say no.”

But the way that everything gets put together today is light-years away from bottle-rockets and blue touch-paper that was lit with a match. Have you ever seen videos of big pop concerts, with all the sound desks and mixers and sequencers connected with wires that all feed into a linked series of computers? Well that’s exactly what each of the control consoles are like with Samui Fireworks – there’s well over one million baht worth of remote-firing sequencers and control equipment to draw upon, used in different combinations according to each job. And, to give you an idea of the potential, the maximum combined and programmed number of sequenced fireworks, using this set-up, would be 3,600!

Stephen Dion “an epicurean experience one shouldn’t be missed”

H Bistro at Hansar Samui 101/27-28 Moo 1, Bophut, Koh Samui +66 77 245 511 www.hansarsamui.com

But when I say ‘fireworks’ these might not be what you’re familiar with.

At this level, nearly everything comes as a kind of ‘cannonball’ that’s exploded upwards out of re-usable fibreglass tubes. (Alan uses heavyduty custom-made tubes that are made to triple safety standards.) All professional fireworks now are in this format, sometimes even blasting giant sky-bombs from 18-inch diameter mortars.

But not Alan. “Yes, Thailand is unregulated in this respect – but this is way over the top. You can hear these things from the other side of the island sometimes. And it’s unbearable for people living nearby. So I’ve come down and down in size, by trial and error, and have now settled on smaller formats. And even these are plenty loud enough for the spectators.” It almost sounds disappointing, doesn’t it! But not when you’ve seen one of Alan’s shows. Even using these moderated power settings, a recent show at Four Seasons was simultaneously enjoyed by diners on the beach in Maenam, over eight kilometres away!

With all this pyrotechnic pleasure so easily on tap just for the asking (together with a suitable fistful of dollars) it’s not really surprising that Alan and Samui Fireworks aren’t the only big bad bangers on the beach. But it’s been suggested that they are the only really safe ones, not only being fully-licenced by the Thai authorities, but also a member of, and qualified by, the international Pyrotechnics Guild International, a worldwide body dedicated to professional fireworks safety and excellence.

“We do more shows than even Disneyland,” Alan exclaimed with a grin.

“We regularly put on more than 40 ‘shoots’ a month, and have even done six on one evening. And, never, once, thank God, have there ever been any spectators hurt, or any property damaged. I couldn’t bear the thought of that. It would destroy my pleasure and sense of achievement.

No matter how much fun it may seem, if you’re working with fire then you need to understand it and respect it.”

And there’s just no arguing with that!

Rob De Wet

____________________________________________________________ For more information, telephone 0 862 818 111.

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CRUCIAL CARD TO CARRY W Retreat Koh Samui offers fabulous privileges with its new W Disruptor Card.

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W Retreat Koh Samui is known for its beautiful sunsets, its headland that allows you a choice of not just one but two palm-fringed beaches and its sheer devotion to all things food, drink and chilling. It’s set well-away from any hubbub, and once you step inside, it’s a world apart. You might think you’re in a remote part of the island, but you’re just a couple of kilometres down a country lane that angles off from the ring-road (look for the signpost just after Zazen as you head towards Maenam from Chaweng). The vibe throughout the resort is refined yet comfortable, but is equally cutting-edge chic. It’s thoroughly creative and contemporary, yet always both cool and fun. The brand is unique and is happy to be so, always seeking to please its discerning guests.

Many people living or staying on the island know about W Retreat Koh Samui. But there are some who have yet to hear the name. With 70 l www.samuiholiday.com

its cachet for pleasure, the resort wants to offer guests from outside the chance to come and experience what it’s all about. In addition to all the holidaymakers there are thousands of island residents who would certainly enjoy time spent at W Retreat. And that’s as well as residents up and down the country who might like to drop in or even stay as a guest.

Addressing this situation, W Retreat has introduced its special privilege card for all who live in Thailand. It’s officially called the ‘W Disruptor Card’, as it ‘disrupts’ the usual prices that are applicable. The card will offer holders privileges in three main areas: food and beverage, spa services and accommodation.

The card has three tiers, each of which requires a fee. However, the fee can be redeemed using cash discount certificates and other offers (more about this later).

All tiers allow you to get 15% off restaurant bills for up to four diners.

W Retreat offers first-class dining at The Kitchen Table with its all-day international fare in a chilled out setting, while Namu is one of the island’s best addresses for Japanese sushi, sashimi and other delights.

If, however, you’d just like a drink, or to experience one of W Retreat’s brand new cocktails and the widest selection of quality craft beer on Samui, then you’ll find Woobar at one of the highest points of the resort – it commands panoramic views of the sea and Koh Pha-Ngan. With a W Disruptor Card you’ll find the entrance fee is waived.

The card also helps save on all Away Spa treatments and packages - a whopping 25% - which is applicable to all tiers. The only exceptions are manicure, pedicure and beauty salon treatments. Away Spa offers seven individual pavilions where you can experience a variety of luxurious

treatments that will leave you re-energized and feeling healthier. There are scrubs and wraps, along with signature massage treatments as well as some unexpected treats such as a herbal sauna experience, where you’ll enjoy an extraordinary thermal bath inspired by a traditional Mexican Temazcal cleansing ritual.

When it comes to accommodation, W Retreat brings you cool and stylish rooms that are perfect for intimacy and luxury living. There’s a select range available, from hillside villas to über-opulent beachside villas. The card allows generous discounts on published rates for rooms, subject to advanced reservation and availability. These are 10%, 15% and 20%, depending on the tier of card. (For accommodation, the card holder needs to be staying in the room.)

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The price tiers themselves are 5,000 baht, 10,000 baht and 20,000 baht. The difference between them is simple: with each you’ll get Food and Beverage Certificates in tranches of 1,000 baht to spend, and this will match your investment for the 5,000 baht and 10,000 baht cards. For the 20,000 baht card you’ll receive 15,000 baht worth of certificates, but you’ll also get a free night’s stay. All three cards also come with one or more all day access passes to the resort.

There are also some additional bonuses such as priority reservations and table seating, invitations to special happenings and you’ll be the first to know about what’s coming up at W Retreat. You’ll be invited to special events, dinners, cocktails and meet-the-management evenings.

By now you might want to know how to get your hands on one of these cards. Simply approach W Retreat Koh Samui via its website.

Membership is valid for Thai and foreign nationals residing in Thailand only. As part of the application process you will need to show a Thai ID, or if you’re a non-Thai, evidence of residency in the form of a business card, Thai driver’s license, copy of work permit or copy of passport and visa. Please be aware that there are some restrictions when using the card and associated vouchers for special promotions.

DISRUPTOR GOLD

The old question of when to splurge and where to save is always a knotty one. But thanks to the W Disruptor Card, you’re now able to have a great time and enjoy a sassy mélange of W Retreat’s amenities. Whether you choose to eat your heart out, enjoy a pampering massage or stay in some of Samui’s most exclusive accommodation, the choice is yours and it’ll be guilt-free one when it comes to budgeting.

Dimitri Waring

__________________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7791 5999. www.retreatkohsamui.com

MR. JOHN SMITH

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GOOD THRU 12/16

BIG, BRIGHT,

BOLD

Chaweng Lake’s Night Market is a feast not just for the eyes, but all the senses.

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Saturday night has rolled round again. And like all Saturday nights, just across from Central Festival in Chaweng, dozens of trucks pull up; nimble passengers leap out and speedily unload tables, chairs, boxes, awnings, signs and so on. In minutes they’ll have put together fully-equipped stalls.

Ready to go? Absolutely! These are vendors who have nigh-on military routines; most evenings, as night falls, they’re already set up and raring to sell at a different venue somewhere on the island.

In Thai-style English, these night markets are bizarrely known as ‘walking streets’ – the street being turned for a few hours into a pedestrian zone, where the only option is to walk. Highly popular amongst Thais, holidaymakers and foreign residents alike, a walking street is a chance to relax and enjoy the local atmosphere. It was Bangkok Governor Bichit Rattakul who first started the walking streets during an economic downturn, in an effort to perk up communities’ sluggish revenues and to help them promote their local goods. He certainly succeeded: on Samui, walking streets have an attendance of thousands every week, and can make fortunes for some of the more intrepid vendors. (A popular cocktail stall on Samui that I know of nets some 20,000 baht per night during high season!)

The walking street at Chaweng Lake, like all others, is an occasion to overload the senses. Each of the stalls occupies its own tiny but vibrant space. Colours whirl, ranging from bright pastel to the downright fluorescent. Over loudspeakers by the lake comes pumping music – on a stage brightly adorned classical Thai dancers pirouette to ancient rhythms that have been given a breakneck beat. Meantime, the smell of food 76 l www.samuiholiday.com

underpins everything. People come hungry, grab bags of food and focus, if they can, on the tastes.

No two Saturdays here at the lake are totally alike. You’ll usually see the same selection of stalls, though there are always newcomers, while others may be taking a break. And depending on the season, the market can be packed or fairly quiet. Everything’s in flux, as shifting as a tide, but by midnight the entire area will be deserted again.

On the night I go, it seems relatively quiet, but is still buzzy. More and more people are arriving, crossing the road from Central Festival, where there’s plenty of parking for bikes and cars.

There’s food aplenty. First off, that old temple-fair favourite, fried bugs, though here they’re sold along with, of all things, crepes. The food is mostly Thai with vendors cooking and serving right on the spot. Over by the lake, people are forming a small but eager queue for seafood, while others are selling salted fish and still others are flipping dark carapaces on their backs to reveal many-legged creatures that you might imagine belong only in the cinema. The Thais are holding out money, the critters get bagged – good bargains all round, it seems. Non-Thais lean away, vaguely disquieted. This is the food, naked and raw, that’ll grace Thai tables and draw wows. When in Rome...

Pad Thai is an all-nation favourite, and two stalls are selling it tonight.

There are also pancakes, which you can adorn in various ways, Nutella and banana, being de rigueur amongst kids. As cooking methods go,

RockPool Samui Holiday Magazine March-April 2016

deep-fried rules all walking streets, and this one’s no different: everywhere you’ll see woks atop gas bottles, Thai staples sizzling, ready to go. Plenty of fried chicken awaits, along with spring rolls and the ever-popular spicy fish cakes. Don’t worry if you can’t speak Thai – simply point to what you want or use the tongs to place what you want on greaseproof paper. Prices are generally written somewhere on the stall, and they’re invariably cheap.

This being walking street, most people are indeed walking. And many are eating as they go. But here there are also – at least tonight – two sit-down eateries. Bright blue plastic chairs are the seating for the first and for the other, rattan mats in front of low communal tables graced with a variety of condiments, herbs and edible leaves. Sitting down here, you don’t need to make conversation with your neighbour and there’s no kind of ceremony involved. As space is limited, it’s not the place to linger. But you won’t want to, there’s too much to see elsewhere.

To offset a heavy dose of fried food, head for the fruit stalls, dotted around the market. You can find quite a variety, but you may have to look. At a stall, I spy a traditional raised round rattan tray packed with colourful goodies, and round them are woven a string of fairy lights. The delicate pink of dragon fruit, bright yellow bananas, a fat watermelon, waiting to be sliced up, and incongruously – did they run out of them? – a plastic pineapple.

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I next head over to an ice-cream stall where the vendor regales me with how it is produced. I start taking a few notes, telling him I’m writing a story for a magazine, and he continues eagerly. But then frowns and I can see he’s getting edgy. Suddenly he stops altogether. “You can’t write that,” he says. His voice slows, looking at the paper. “Give it to me.” Still smiling, as if he’s going to perform a conjuring trick, his eyes lock on mine as one arm deftly reaches out taking the paper, while his other hand lifts the pen so gently from my fingers that it seems to be floating away. He gracefully puts a single line through a single sentence, peers at it. “You can’t write this,” he says again. And then he gets going. Each word now is now turned into sudden coils of biro.

Everything is now hidden by the scribble version of rolled barbed wire.

He gives the paper back to me, smiles and shakes my hand, declares we’re friends. I’m not sure what could be wrong about writing about ice-cream, but he’s definitely very concerned. I’ve heard of ice-cream wars and know that they can get triggered by seemingly innocuous moments. Is this one of them? Does he know more than I do? But it seems trouble’s been avoided, and I hear no warning warble of icecream trucks approaching.

The market fakes things at times, but clearly so. There are things here that are unexpected. The buggy, chicken-filled night is also a place to go shopping for a ‘Rolex’. A stall sells a good few rows of them. But the owner seems to have no worries at all about shoplifters. He has his back turned, busy on his cell phone as I head towards the watches. I ask the price of one. “1,200 baht,” he says, with quiet dignity. When I ponder the price he civilly asks, “How much do you expect to pay?”

I’m not sure. I know a used one can be 2,000 dollars but for a new one? 5,000 dollars? I know also it depends on the country where you purchase it. But 1,200 baht seems to be ridiculously cheap, and the guy seems enthusiastic about bargaining. I appear to be looking at a perfect timepiece. I need a new watch but this isn’t it.

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Some of the holidaymakers are buying souvenirs. There are many stalls with t-shirts of all kinds, and a variety of other places selling a diverse selection of products. How about a shoulder bag or a brightly-woven purse featuring hill tribe colours and motifs? Or a beautifully hollowedout coconut shell, that’s been inlaid with eggshell and then painted?

None of these items could be easily found outside Thailand. And then there’s the more garish and international ... a pink light-up Hello Kitty doll, a radio-active green baseball, a mix of superhero figurines and an entire stall devoted to over-colourful Bob Marley memorabilia.

Some people are taking a respite from the walking street, sitting quietly and eating by the lake, in darkness now, while others are heading in the opposite direction, back across the road to Central Festival, a very different and more modern shopping venue.

Between lake and mall sits the night market, and while it may also have electric lighting, strung from trees and poles and may seem quite modern, its origins are far more ancient. There have always been night markets from the moment when mankind first learned to light up the darkness, and tonight’s walking street is direct descendant from some original, primordial market thousands of years ago. It’s in the blood to come to places like these, and no matter what kind of country you find yourself in, no matter if it’s exotic or not, there’s always something archetypally familiar about such places. And here it’s a heady pull that will tug you in to its own atmosphere. Just make sure you’re ready for sights, sounds and smells that are totally Thai and get ready to tuck into some challenging new foods.

Dimitri Waring

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WATER WATER WATER

The truth about water in, on, and around Samui – and it’s not all bad news! www.samuiholiday.com l 81

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Nora Buri SH Sep - Oct 2015

B a r g e & Te r r a c e

Go online. Do a search for ‘Samui’. And then look at what you come across. I don’t mean actually read it all. I mean scan the websites that come up on the first page of Google. They’re all commercial sites that have invested in search engine optimisation – with the exception of Wikipedia and TripAdvisor which inject a much more reliable note into things – perhaps. The most up-to-date info on Samui is what people are doing and saying right at this minute. Unfortunately, that’s sometimes based on impressions and hear-say, and not on real facts. However, in amongst all of this, you’ll not see anything about water – except advice not to drink it out of the tap!

Samui is an island. And so it’s surrounded by the sea water of the Gulf of Thailand. This you will swim in. The island of Samui also gets rained upon. And, unlike the rainwater in so many parts of the world, it’s completely safe to drink; there is no polluted-emissions layer it’s going to fall through first. And then the rain water soaks down into the ground and into the water table. It’s not surprising that this water subsequently flows downhill through the sub-strata – we’re an island which has nearly all of its landmass on a slope down towards the coast, after all. And then some of this water ends up in your water-pipes – and then you wash in it.

Few visitors know anything about how these various systems work together on Samui. Does it really matter? Yes. Why? Because anything from jellyfish stings to rip-tides to conjunctivitis to skin rashes to stomach upsets or a mild fever that is similar to heatstroke could be due to the rainfall, the time of year, the water table, and the simple and unthinking assumption that what comes out of your resort’s tap or shower head is just . . . water.

However, the silver lining is that today everything is much more controlled and organised. Hotels and resorts are aware of the overall inconsistencies, and have got it sorted with filtration systems and reverse osmosis units. And it’s really only the people who live here full time, renting or having bought their own homes, who need to come to grips with the vagaries of the island’s water supply. (And they probably have, anyway.)

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So let’s first deal with the water in your pipes. Where does it come from and how does it get there? There is an established but (in the last decade) unreliable source of municipal water piped from the reservoirs directly to residential dwellings. Like many other aspects of life on Samui, it is a system that hasn’t kept up with the demands of the many thousands of new houses.

And, in periods of drought or low rainfall, it’s often muddy and sporadic, frequently drying up altogether.

A great many places thus get their water directly from a deep-well sunk into the ground. This is probably the cleanest water you’ll find here, coming straight out of the water table and second only to direct rainwater.

Rainwater, on the other hand might not be as good as it seems: if it’s collected from run-off from a roof via gutters into a tank, then it can pick up all sorts of contaminates en-route, from bird excrement to dead insects, lizards and rodents. This can also be true for well-water, by the way.

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Next, you might find that your house or resort relies on a water tower of some kind, or a plastic or metal tank that is filled before being pumped to your house. Sounds good. But where does this water actually come from? Well, it comes mostly from one of the island’s small cache reservoirs, and water-tankers go there to fill up before coming to deliver. These reservoirs have been created by forming man-made barriers in the natural run-offs from the peak of the island. Unfortunately they attract numbers of wild dogs which are frequently culled by poisoning. Plus atmospheric dust and decomposing vegetation, much the same as the rainwater run-off from your roof. The residue from all this gets delivered to your tank. But it arrives substantially diluted, and is rarely ever a problem.

What is more significant are the dozens of deep-channel runaways for surface water that lead directly to the sea, and that are found all around Samui. You won’t drink this. But you will swim in it, often unknowingly. And it’s totally hit and miss. Think about it. Rain falls. Then it drains away on the surface, fast, and sometimes for as far as 10 kilometres before it reaches open water.

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You can forget about raw sewerage: for many years now resorts and even small estates and houses have established and managed sceptic tanks which are regularly maintained. But surface water picks up animal excrement. This can cause leptospirosis – contact with the eyes, inner ear and mucus membranes can give rise to symptoms which include fever, chills, muscle or abdomen pain, conjunctivitis and skin rash. But it’s easy to avoid, and it creates its own solution, really. If it’s been pouring with rain, don’t go swimming in one of the brown-water channels that are flowing off the land and draining out to sea! And by the time it’s stopped raining, any contaminates will have been diluted or washed out to sea naturally, anyway.

The most common question you’ll hear is – “can I drink the water?” This is a naive thing to ask, really. It’s like asking “will I get eaten by a shark”? The answer to both is – probably not! More people every year suffer ‘anguish-by-water’ because they ignore our red-flag ‘Do Not Swim!’ riptide warnings, than from any other cause. It’s all really only common sense – and there’s no online answer for a lack of that!

Rob De Wet

Baan Haad Ngam Boutique Resort & Villas 154 Moo 2, Chaweng Beach, Bophut, Koh Samui, Suratthani 84320 Tel: +66 77 231 500-8 Fax: +66 77 231 520 Email: booking@baanhaadngam.com, www.baanhaadngam.com

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PRESSING THE POINT An unpretentious but award-winning spa in a stunning setting – Tamarind Springs has a great deal to boast about!

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There are spas, and there are spas. You’ll see them out on the street.

Your resort will probably have one. Some are stand-alone, offering pampering and rejuvenation treatments. Others offer accommodation too, together with more detailed programs. And these ones usually include different forms of detox and other health-related options. Then there’s the more mystical side of things, the so-called New Age places, where the talk of ‘balanced chakras’ and ‘energy fields’ runs side by side with dieting on live vegetables and investigating zero magnetic gravity.

This is both a good thing and a bad thing. It’s good because you’re utterly spoiled for choice – take your pick! And it’s not so good because, with all these wide and varied spas of different forms and flavours, how do you sort out the wheat from the chaff? How can you make certain that your emailed enquiry about sacro-cranial massage isn’t answered by a manager who tells her clerk “. . . head massage?

We can do that. Tell them ‘yes’ and book them in for a week.”?

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The answer? TripAdvisor. But the big problem here is that you need the skill to be able to read between the lines. Two or three spoiled brats can give a nasty taste to a place very fast, despite the reams of moderate praise that’s embedded all around. The other and more reliable way is to listen carefully to, and take note of, say, someone who has been on Samui for 20 years and has experienced many of these spas first-hand, on and off, over this period of time. Like me, perhaps! And I can’t find anything even faintly negative to say in any way about Tamarind Springs, in Lamai.

I don’t think there’s a more beautiful or impressive setting, anywhere on Samui. A great deal of our island is fringed with plain, flat, whitesand beaches. But this area has a solid core of rock. It was the last part of the original ring-road to be completed, due to the blasting that was necessary. Beachwards, the rock cascades to the sea. But a little way inland it forces its way through the surface with boulders the size of houses. The layout here at Tamarind Springs has been thoughtfully and carefully designed, up and down the slope, to fit in and around

these massive rocks. And, over the long time it’s been here, the rampant flourishing of tropical greenery has been tamed and controlled just the right amount to reach a compromise between out-of-control chaos and an organised lushness that is rare to see. In other words; it’s utterly idyllic.

So let’s come back to the idea of spas again, and let’s take the two extremes. One the one hand, a little Thai spa on the road; on the other, a New Age assembly of seekers and healers. Both places share something in common – take a treatment or a massage and you’ll get your body worked on! The plain vanilla massage will manipulate the muscles; if you’re lucky and get a sensitive masseuse, she’ll recognise areas of tightness and tension and work on them. But she won’t be aware of nerve clusters, the lymphatic or nervous systems, glands, electro-chemical energy, or the inter-relation of any of these things. But on the other side of the coin you’ll be blasted with jargon. The New Age guys will be talking about balancing your chakras and re-harmonising your energies. And that brings us back to Tamarind Springs again.

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Putting it simply: at Tamarind you’re going to get treatments which are totally professional. And every one of the therapy staff is aware of, and involved in, Ayurvedic (and other) principles and practices. But they don’t shout about it. In fact, you have to comb carefully through their programmes to find hints of this. It’s all packaged and promoted very sensibly, and with the minimum of sensationalism. Take the Hot Stone (plus cold stone also) massage. After two hours of this you will, literally, be drifting on air as you wobble your way to the steam room. And for the next few days you’ll be relaxed, fortified, uplifted and optimistic, but without really knowing why. It’s also got a lot to do with your masseuse knowing about the body’s energy centres, and working on them. (But what you won’t get told, or read on the website info, is that when the moon is full, for some interesting reason, the stones used here are put out in the moonlight overnight . . .)

Combing carefully through the programs again reveals two lymphatic treatments sitting unassumingly in amongst the rest. Nobody’s shouting about these, but both of these are rooted in an old and established lymphatic drainage technique created by the Austrian, Dr Emil Vodder.

It’s a slow and gentle stroking therapy – no sense of pressure or pain – which concentrates on the body’s lymphatic system, balancing its tangles and effectively re-organising the lymphatic flow to be directional and at its optimum. And it works. Water retention disappears and swollen limbs return to normal – and working also on the face and head strengthens and regenerates the cells, effectively creating a natural ‘facelift’. This is probably one of the most unassuming and unpublicised ways of generating a natural detox.

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It has to be said that none of these treatments or packages are particularly cheap. In fact, on an island where you can get a jolly good beach mash for 400 baht, they are in a different class altogether. But you really do get what you pay for, particularly in view of the unsung expertise at Tamarind Springs, the acquisition of which would make many a New Age venue dance with joy.

If you want a quick, energetic, back rub, go to the beach. If you want to wake up wondering what’s happened to you, come here!

Plus . . . with no strings attached, there are the most stunninglylocated bungalows to rent. Check the website for details, but you can stay here, in a super suite or villa, totally rooted into nature, adrift on another plane altogether, for not much more than 1,000 baht a day. The actual treatments cost more, but then they touch on a lot more points. But the accommodation, also not boasted about, is one point about Tamarind Springs that needs some pressing home!

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BUILDING MINDS AND SCL International School’s ambitious new building project dovetails with students’ happiness and performance.

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In architecture there’s a saying that goes, ‘form follows function’ – the use that a building will be put to determines how it’ll look. Too often, however, we have to make do with ramshackle architecture that not only doesn’t look good but only vaguely fulfils its potential.

Schools tend to end up rock bottom on the architect’s list of creative ventures. Children are mercilessly crowded into rooms that seem to have been inspired by the tight shoeboxes their footwear came from.

The rest of school design seems equally slap-dash: the biggest space gets tagged as the assembly room and the rest follows predictably with lip-service rooms, such as play areas, science labs, a refectory, etc. All are connected with arteries of echoing corridors, and hey presto the architect’s work is already done. The results are as rousing as the sight of a multi-storey car park. It seems to take a visionary to do anything different.

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Thankfully there are schools around that think out of the box. In Lamai, SCL International School is doing just this. It was a year ago that Emma Dyas, the school’s headmistress moved premises. A larger school was needed, as was increased outdoor space. The move went ahead, with the new location being just a few doors up from Lamai Post Office. And since moving into the new facilities, she’s been steadily improving on the layout and the amenities. Emma’s now going ahead with ambitious new projects that require some major architectural changes to be made.

Six purpose-built classrooms will be added and these will each reflect the four elements. For example, ‘fire’ will be represented by solar panels.

The entire school is set to be as ecologically sound as possible, using energy that’s sustainable, wherever possible. It’s a heady goal and one that has as yet no end in sight. The important thing, according to Emma, is to get started and to go as far as possible. “It’s also an educational

highlight,” she says, “The sustainability of the school will hopefully inspire the children to look for sustainable options themselves.”

Building work is also required for sports and Emma plans to provide a football pitch that’s entirely covered, allowing protection from the rain and sun. Sports are taken seriously here, not so much in the competitive sense, but as a key to children’s health; so it makes sense that sports areas are protected from the strong tropical sun.

There will also be a dance studio where children will be able to practice contemporary dance along with a little ballet. (Emma herself is a trained dancer, and may well also offer classes to adults.) An organic farm will complete the improvements. Here children will learn about fruit and vegetables and how to grow food that’s as pure as possible.

If form follows function, it’s clear this is a school that’s not at all the ordinary, traditional type, and it’s reflected in the very building plans.

But it’s not just about layout and bricks and mortar; you clearly get the feeling that there’s more going on here – a lot more. Some of it isn’t even visible in any usual sense and goes beyond the physical. For example, the school teaches mindfulness and meditation.” These practices are good for exam anxiety,” says Emma. “But that’s just the start. By getting children to focus for just a few minutes a day, they improve their sense of wellbeing; they leave the negative behind, see the positive instead, and the type and quality of their energy changes. As a result, they become much calmer and more focussed.”

SCL International School has a philosophy that’s very different from that of most schools. For a start the accent is on the child, not on the system.

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Rather than view each child as having to integrate into that system, each is considered as being a unique individual, who deserves to be nurtured.

In other words, the child comes first. The educational system fits around the child – not the other way round.

The results are astonishing. SCL isn’t a dull place where children have to fill in time, part of a system; it’s a haven where children love to spend their days and to learn. Says Emma, “Making children’s happiness and confidence the priority is all important. This is a place of learning, and we have very high academic standards – but at the same time, it’s essential that children enjoy themselves. If a child is relaxed, he or she will certainly perform better academically. We cater for the whole child.”

The approach works well and is good all round. For example, everyone passed their IGCSEs (International General Certificate of Secondary Education), and all but one child went on to college.

She goes on to say that she’s sought out teachers who are vibrant and dedicated. They know how to engage children and make learning fun and relevant. Just to take one example, art, all too often a neglected subject, is taken rather more seriously at SCL, and Emma has found a wonderful teacher in a master of fine arts, Khun Kriangkrai. He studied in Bangkok and specializes in making artefacts from silver as well as drawing. He’s extraordinarily gifted, and is able to pass on to children his techniques for art as well as his enthusiasm.

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Nora Beach Samui Holiday July-August 2016

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Next year SCL will offer A-levels in English, Maths, Modern Languages, Science, History and Business Studies (accounting and economics). This will mean that the school will be preparing students right up to university level. Says Emma, “Offering education up to A-levels is as far as the school can go, academically speaking. And once the new buildings are completed, we won’t need to go further on the architectural side. Our goals will then be to maintain and improve on what we have achieved and to focus on very high quality education. This in itself is a never-ending challenge. We don’t want to grow big; we’re more interested in keeping classes small in terms of numbers. That means we can focus on each individual’s education.”

With satisfied parents and children who simply enjoy being at school, SCL has been successful since it first started. Not only are the students happy, but they’re also getting the grades they require for their future. Already a recognisable name, SCL International School is set to go even further.

Dimitri Waring

________________________________________________________ For further information, telephone Emma Dyas on 0 810 910 714. www.sclinternationalschool.com

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MAKING THE MOVE These days it’s incredibly easy to come and live on Samui – and totally worth it.

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Samui’s frequently referred to as a paradise on earth; over the years it’s become a world-renowned holiday destination that attracts over a million visitors per year. There are plenty of people who come back year after year, booking a new holiday each time. But it’s one thing to vacation in a place, and another to actually live there. So the big question is: just how easy is it to move to Thailand and drive down your tent pegs on the country’s third largest island?

Some holidaymakers will scratch their heads and wonder if it’s even possible. Surely, you can’t just go and settle in Thailand, can you? The immediate answer is that, yes, more or less, you can. Unlike many countries, setting up in Thailand is very, very easy. There are relatively few procedures to follow, and you don’t even need to prepare a ton of documents before you leave your own country. The ease in which you can settle in Thailand is perhaps one of the best plus points. Similarly it’s just as easy to work or retire here. The procedures to follow lie outside the scope of this article, but you can easily find them on the internet. It’s also astonishingly easy to buy a house, villa or condo here.

Living in a place, many people say, isn’t the same as having a holiday there. And they are of course completely correct. But contrary to what they believe, living in a place is even better than spending a few weeks 100 l www.samuiholiday.com

in a hotel – at least where Samui is concerned. Once you’re actually living here, you’ll find lots of ways to cut the costs of living. Within a few months of arriving you’ll easily work out where to shop, eat and get just about any kind of supplies you’ll want or need. And you’ll also find your own favourite spots to swim, walk and relax.

The weather here is sunny almost all year round. Thailand’s climates and monsoons can make it hard to establish where the best regions are, but it’s generally acknowledged that this part of the Gulf of Siam enjoys one of the nation’s best climates. The rainy season is about a month long, with the focus being in November. Either side of the month can be affected, but that’s generally it as far as bad weather goes. And the rest of the time, it’s basically sun, sun and more sun. The hottest part of the year is from January through till the end of April, when it’s also very dry.

Some people love this season the best, but if you don’t like heat, it can be a problem.

Samui’s beaches, as you probably know, are amazing when it comes to relaxing. White sands with swaying palms aren’t the stuff of imagination – you can find this here and just as good, the beaches rarely get too crowded. Only Chaweng in the high season sees anything like the number of people that the Mediterranean would.

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Just as remarked upon as the climate, is the traditional friendliness of the Thai people. Thanks to them, it’s very easy to settle here.

Now into its fourth decade of looking after people from all over the world, the islanders are thoroughly geared up to guests from outside. Some people, incredibly, take this for granted. They shouldn’t, ever: too many émigrés have set up in other beautiful locations elsewhere in the world only to find themselves shunned and unwelcome. Nothing ruins time abroad more than the vague air of menace. Nobody can expect to be happy in such circumstances, of course. And that’s why so many people enjoy living in Thailand. They feel safe here. Are residents treated with the same friendliness as holidaymakers? And the answer is, yes, they generally are.

Samui is far from being a desert island where you have to bring everything with you. Over the years the shopping situation has improved, and now it’s easy to get pretty much everything here.

Big C, Tesco-Lotus and Makro are all present. Central Festival, meanwhile, is a sophisticated shopping and eating destination, vying with the best of Bangkok.

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When it comes to health, there are five hospitals to choose from, including the highly-reputed government hospital. They’re able to offer a broad range of treatments as well as on-going help. As yet, however, there’s no MRI on the island, and for this you would need to go to Suratthani on the mainland. Thailand, you may or may not know, is a top-class medical destination, and in Bangkok you’ll find a complete range of medical facilities, treatments and specialists. Naturally, Samui being a smallish island, not every condition can be treated here; if referred off the island by a doctor, then Bangkok is very easy and fast to reach.

Another great advantage to living here is that you’re not alone. You won’t be conspicuous because you can’t speak the language or don’t look Thai. There’s a well-established base of foreign residents; any of them will provide information or point you in the right direction. They’re friendly and helpful and there will be plenty of times when you’ll be able to get some instant advice from them.

So far, so good. But if you still don’t want to take the plunge, then there’s a brilliant half-way solution. It’s very easy to come and live here part-time.

Plenty of people do this, living here for various periods of time each year.

Three or six months per year on Samui makes sense when you’re not quite ready to go the whole hog.

Are there any disadvantages to living here, you might now be asking?

It’s definitely a question you need to resolve before making the move.

The foreign residents who live here are again good for answers. What troubles them about their lives here? What’s not so good? There are several factors that most will speak about.

Health insurance is easy to obtain for most people, but if you’re used to living in a country where there’s excellent welfare coverage, then it can

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be worrying if you even suspect you might not be well covered by your insurance. It’s not just a question of reading the small print, but shopping around in the first place.

Many people used to complain about the state of the roads, but they do so less now – major repairs have taken place and are continuing to do so. However, everyone on the island is aghast at the poor driving here.

A disadvantage to living here is that for a small island with only some 200 kilometres of roads, you will need to buy a car in order to feel safe.

Don’t ride a motorbike. The island has the worst statistics in Thailand for traffic accidents.

These are the disadvantages. For some would-be residents they will be no more than irks or not even relevant. Weighing everything up, the future’s bright for most of those who want to come to Samui.

The majority of foreign residents who have chosen to live on the island are very happy they made the move. If you ask them if they would be prepared to move back to the Old Country (whichever one it may be) you’ll mostly hear a resounding ‘no’.

Analysis paralysis can tie you up in knots forever and a day. A better way forward: buy the ticket, take the ride. These days you won’t be arriving on a steamship after six months of travel and no easy way to return. As mentioned earlier, this is one place where you can try out living here for a few months. You’ll probably feel like staying and will probably want to find a way to make the move permanent.

Dimitri Waring

TRUNK Exploring Samui’s hidden interior on the back of an elephant.

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A lot of visitors head to the beach again and again, thinking it’s pretty much the only activity on Samui. After all, beaches abound here and they have an almost magnetic pull. But they’re not the only attraction. Away from the coastline, there’s a completely different Samui waiting to be discovered - the world of the interior. A few roads make brave attempts to traverse it, but not very effectively, and all but one peters out. Even after 30 years as a tourist destination, there’s no easy way to get into it.

The heart of Samui consists of endless coconut plantations, dense orchards and jungle as well as primordial rainforest. Exciting? You bet.

It’s pretty close to being The Land That Time Forgot. It’s a beguiling place, filled with trees and plants and sights that you’ve probably never

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seen before. As such it makes a great alternative to the beach.

And since elephants are native to Thailand, a wonderful way to get acquainted with the interior is to ride on the back of one of these primordial beasts. They know their way around, and while they walk the forest paths and tracks, you can sit back and relax. There are plenty of elephant safaris on the island, but one of those that’s tried-and-trusted is Living Thailand Tours.

It’s the brainchild of Khun Add and his wife, Khun Nee. They know the terrain here well and have set up an elephant camp on the island’s east side, at Baan Chang, just south of the island’s spectacular Namuang

Waterfalls. It’s a great location, in other words. They offer several tours that will acquaint you with Samui’s inner world, its activities and the people who live and work there.

Firstly, there’s simple elephant trekking. Here you sit on a chair that’s set on the back of the elephant while you venture into the forest. A trainer, or mahout, is with the elephant at all times, ensuring safety. You can go on a 30 minute ride or, better still, one that lasts for an hour and will take you much deeper into the jungle.

Baan Chang has a total of nine elephants, which all come from the mainland. Each elephant has its very own mahout, who looks after it

and has done so for many years; mahout and elephant go hand in hand, or perhaps in this case, trunk in hand. The nine elephants and nine mahouts comprise the small and select team here. It goes without saying that all the animals are licensed, and all visitors are insured when they’re trekking. (Hotels and travel agencies are shown all the relevant documentation and thus can go ahead and recommend Living Thailand Tours.) The elephants are all treasured and you can see them at the compound being watered and fed, when they’re not out and about. And just like many of us, they’ll have a shower after their work’s done. You’ll be able to see all of this when you’re at Baan Chang. Many visitors like to relax after their ride – and people like to linger here and watch the elephants, and perhaps have a drink in the shady garden.

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If you’d like to do more than just go elephant trekking, Living Thailand Tours arranges two interesting packages, both of which will give you some insight into the more traditional way of life on Samui. The first is simply called Eco Samui, and here you go not just elephant trekking but see a lot more besides. You’ll see local people splitting coconuts that have been harvested, forming huge piles of discarded shells. You’ll also see how the shells are crafted into various bowls and artefacts, ready to be sold. And later on you’ll find out how to make curry paste from scratch. So, in future, instead of buying it ready-made in sachets, you’ll be able to make your own, as do all the good chefs on Samui. The trip also takes in the second of the two waterfalls at Namuang, usually an impressive sight, unless it’s a very dry season. A monkey show is also included, and you’ll also be able to feed the elephants themselves. The trip takes a total of four hours, and starts in the morning.

The second trip, the Living Thailand Safari Tour, takes seven hours, and is an all-day outing. It follows the same lines as the Eco Samui trip, as above, but there are even more activities included. As the trip is much 108 l www.samuiholiday.com

longer, lunch is also included in the price. You’ll also visit a mountain viewpoint and spend time exploring the Magic Garden, one of Samui’s hidden treasures. It’s basically a valley at high-altitude with a stream running through, populated with dozens and dozens of stone statues, many of which are of Thai mythical beings. The entire garden is very atmospheric; it’s a sight that not many visitors see. You’ll also be able to visit Wat Kunaram where you’ll see an extraordinary sight: a monk who died years ago but has never decayed. He sits – and possibly he’ll continue doing so for decades to come – in a glass box close to the entrance to the temple, and wears his traditional orange robes, as well as a pair of sunglasses.

For all the excursions that Living Thailand Tours offers, you can book through your hotel or through any travel agent. On the day of the elephant ride or tour, you’ll be picked up from your hotel by truck, and after it’s over, you’ll be taken back again, making getting here and back very easy and relaxing. If you have a car and want to go independently, you can find Baan Chang quite easily. On the ring-road, if you’re

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heading south from Nathon on the west coast, then keep going until you come to Namuang waterfalls. A few minutes’ drive more and if you keep your eyes peeled, you’ll see the temple of Wat Kunaram on your right. The turning for Baan Chang is just before this, almost opposite the temple. Turn left into the small lane here, and after about 500 metres you’ll see the sign for Baan Chang.

Elephant trekking and taking a break from the beach is always a great way to liven up your time on Samui. You’ll see plenty that most visitors just never experience, and it’ll definitely add to your feeling of being in a truly exotic destination.

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Dimitri Waring

______________________________________________________ For reservations or further information telephone 0 7742 3650-1, 07741 8570-1 or 0 898 731 311.

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AN ODE TO HEALTH

Anodas Spa at Nora Buri Resort & Spa combines beautiful views with seriously good massage.

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For years, many spas have concentrated on being true sanctuaries, where you literally step away from the world. As such they’re often about being indoors, and many do away with even having windows. It’s a formula that really works, too, especially if the views aren’t, well, so picturesque.

But what if you can step away from the world into a beautiful, intimate garden and have this as a spa setting? Then it becomes a magical experience. Just minutes from the busy heart of Chaweng, you’ll find a place that’s a complete haven, where relaxation is on tap. The garden setting at Anodas Spa is exactly what you think of when you imagine tropical trees and plants. But that’s not all. The view’s just about the best of any spa on Samui - the garden frames the beautiful headland that marks the northern end of Chaweng and the tiny, enigmatic islet of Koh Matlang, just off-shore. And best of all, you can see all of this from the trio of treatment rooms that comprise this select spa. Each room is housed in a small purpose-built chalet, which is completed by a steam room and a generous-sized open-air Jacuzzi. Just the kind of place where you’ll find it easy to let the cares of the world slip away.

Anodas Spa is open daily from 10:00 am until 8:00 pm, and is located at Nora Buri Resort & Spa, just a few minutes’ drive north of Chaweng.

Follow the beach road north along the coast for three kilometres, and you’ll see the resort on your left.

If you’ve ever felt a spontaneous sigh of relief course through your body and your tensions starting to melt away, this is the initial feeling that 112 l www.samuiholiday.com

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many people have when they step into the spa’s atrium. Quiet music plays, and the atmosphere is very serene. Just being here will put you in the mood for relaxing. And this is before any treatment has started.

The spa manageress is the very gifted Khun Ying, who’s dedicated to helping all her guests find the right treatment. She and her team are all expert masseuses, and in their professional hands you’ll be able to enjoy the various massages and packages that the spa offers.

Firstly, you’ll be given the spa menu to browse through, and just like with a dinner menu, there are all sorts of options. And never mind if it’s your first time in a spa. The friendly staff can answer your questions and help you settle on the treatment that’s going to be of the most benefit to you.

Each treatment starts with a foot bath, where your feet are gently washed. Depending on what you’ve chosen, you might also enjoy time in the steam room – a process where the heat cleanses your skin and helps to replenish the cells – or a relaxing session in the Jacuzzi, from where you can take in those incomparable views of the gardens and the sea. Anodas Spa has special promotions where you can be pampered for up to two hours with choices of massages, facials and a body scrub. These represent great value for money.

SCL International School International Education from Pre-school to Secondary Educating the Mind Nurturing the Soul



 Small classes  Individual education plans Fully qualified teachers  A family atmosphere

With these qualities, it’s not hard to see why the children at SCL are achieving so much A warm welcome is extended to anyone who wishes to visit the school

SCL International School

127/40-50 Moo 3 Maret, Lamai, Koh Samui, Surat Thani 84310, Thailand Phone: 0 7741 8789 Mobile: 0 810 910 714 Email: emma@sclinternationalschool.com www.sclinternationalschool.com

Hot, humid weather can play havoc with your skin, and so the spa has worked on special treatments to cleanse and rejuvenate it. Firstly, they have body scrubs that leave your body cleansed radiant. You can choose between coconut, yoghurt and coffee, milky rice or lemongrass.

Then there are body wraps, and here you can opt for aloe vera, green tea or Dead Sea salt. Each of the scrubs and wraps also include a short steam room session followed by a moisturizing treatment. Anodas Spa naturally also offers a choice of facials – there’s one specifically for men, too. Products used here come from the Phytomer range and are geared towards helping hydrate the skin and give it that fresh feeling.

Meanwhile, the Anodas Signature Massage enables you to let your tensions simply drift away and out of your body. It’s a traditional Thai massage and uses a combination of aroma oil with hot herbal compress.

It’ll leave you feeling restored and rejuvenated. The Thai massages at Anodas work on the theory of energy balance to promote better health and healing. Carefully applied pressure releases blockages and stretches the muscles. Thai massages are renowned for not only leaving you feeling relaxed, but also more energetic.

The massages also take into account other cultures’ approach to the healing arts. For example, the spa’s sports massage combines Thai acupressure with Swedish massage techniques, and the Hawaiian rubbing movements from the Lomi Lomi tradition. If your muscles are over-tense from exercise then this is the massage for you: it’s good for softening rigid body tissues and easing the strains of sport. You can also, by the way, benefit from a healing back massage, with focus being given to the back, neck and shoulder areas. This is good for chronic aches in the upper body area. You might also enjoy the head massage treatment, which combines a scalp massage with hair-care. It stimulates the scalp, improves circulation and reduces stress.

The gardens at Anodas Spa make the perfect backdrop for some indulgent time out. When it comes to relaxation and letting your body be pampered, the treatments that this spa offers rank among the very best on the island. Definitely recommended, and with very affordable prices, it’s not surprising that Anodas Spa is so popular.

Dimitri Waring

____________________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7791 3555 ext. 7. www.noraburiresort.com 114 l www.samuiholiday.com

The Beauty Secret Perfection is Closer Than You Think

FROGGING DOWN THE HILL One of Samui’s finest restaurants has very accommodatingly branched out – Dr Frogs!

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What more can you do? Let’s start with an award-winning restaurant with superlative cuisine. It’s got one of the most stunning views around. The décor is easy, the ambiance, super. It’s comfy and relaxed. It’s already about as good as you can get. So how can you improve it? What can you do to make it even better still? Well, yes, you can put up some fab weekly specials on the chalkboard. You can even add the silky vibes of a top guitarist three times a week. And then . . . and then you can build 16 utterly gorgeous one-and two-bedroom luxury villas, and discretely pepper them on the hillside right next to you. But more of this in just a moment!

The enigmatically named Dr Frogs made its debut back in 2007. And it immediately achieved something elusive, much to the envy of all and the annoyance of many – success. As so many aspiring hopefuls have already learned, there’s simply no formula for this. And so when the emerging Dr Frogs was perching itself on top of a prime view, people nodded and shrugged. And when they sneaked a peep at the layout of the mellow inner room, and the adjoining outer terrace, they smirked cynically. And when all the glowing teak was fitted, when the olive and cream décor appeared and the plethora of discreet and mellow lighting was installed, they remained non-plussed. Even when the maestro, Chef Massimo, began orchestrating the kitchen, they were unmoved. It had all been done before.

And then, one by one, they all fell silent.

Because it all worked. Dr Frogs was not only successful, it won awards – several Thailand Tatler ‘Best Restaurant’ accolades; even the hard-to-liveup-to TripAdvisor Certificate of Excellence. And, even more than this, it 118 l www.samuiholiday.com

continued to succeed, year after year, until it eventually became one of the island’s institutions. This restaurant had conjured up something that there’s just no formula for – the ‘feel-good factor’. That plus, of course, some truly marvellous food.

Chef Massimo has perfected his Mediterranean and Italian cuisine. He has no pretensions; he’s easy, outgoing and friendly, and as much to be seen talking to the guests as he is in the kitchen. And this is reflected in his menu. It’s traditional ‘home-cooked-style’ Italian cuisine, and it’s all made with prime imported ingredients. This is a truly all-day affair, starting with breakfast at 7:00 am – and there’s few places better for the sunrise than here. His range of chef’s salads is exceptional. He makes his own pasta and sauces fresh each day. Likewise his pizza bases – and these are the real thing, thin and crispy, real Italian-style. (And, if you call in between 3:00 pm and 6:00 pm, you’ll get two pizzas for the price of one!) Plus, of course, there’s also a full menu of Thai favourites, too.

The pricing tends to reflect the quality of both the fare and the service.

But every week Massimo seems to have a culinary fit, and lets rip with a series of Chef’s Specials, which are not on the menu and are enticingly reasonably priced. Such as the ‘Live Canadian Lobster for Two, with Linguine and Creamy Tomato Sauce’ at just 875 baht. Or the ‘Pork Scaloppini with White Wine and Basil Sauce and Tasmanian Asparagus’ that’ll set you back only 525 baht. Or the connoisseur’s delight: imported fresh French Fine de Claire oysters – 12 for 1,100 baht. Indeed, those who

Lamai Beach: 0 7723 0855 & Lamai Valley: 0 7742 4666, 0 7725 6615

frequent Dr Frogs (and know the menu) usually pop in once a week anyway just to see what’s happening on the chalkboard!

And along with all this, every Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday, there’s Oliver Jones. He’s a gifted and laid-back acoustic guitarist, songwriter and musician.

And all of this, or as little or as much as you want, is readily on hand if you elect to stay in one of the adjoining villas. The title of the collection is ‘Boujis’. And they are simply superb. They’re realistically priced at around 2,500 baht per night, although this will vary according to seasonal peaks. They’re distinctly Mediterranean in feel, enhanced by artwork and sculptures, and perched in two tiers, with the same dramatic seascape as the restaurant. The coastline here is rocky, and the same gigantic rocks have been architected into the layout to dramatic effect.

A great deal of thought and money has gone into the décor, furnishings and fittings. Each is equipped with a huge sun balcony, and inside there’s a kitchenette with gas hob and microwave, plus a fridge that’s stocked with wine, tea, coffee and water. The living area includes a flat screen TV (with USB and HDMI connections) plus Apple TV so you can access new movies, old classics, sitcoms or documentaries, or even plug in your own laptop. If you’re at a loose-end, there’s also a huge library of DVD movies available free of charge. And there’s high-speed broadband internet throughout.

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Radiance is a part of The Spa Resorts.

Lamai Beach: 0 7723 0855 & Lamai Valley: 0 7742 4666, 0 7725 6615

The bedrooms are something to write home about, with king size designer mattresses and high thread-count Egyptian luxury cotton linen, and all have air-con as well as fans. And one of the most thoughtful touches anywhere is that every villa comes with a complimentary mobile phone with a local SIM card and starter pack that can be topped up asyou-go at reception or local stores, such as 7-11. These phones are even pre-programmed with essential local numbers, including the emergency services.

A picture is worth a lot of words, and it’d be much more effective if you explored your way through the links below. Better still, seeing that you’re reading this now, pop along to Dr Frogs one day. It’s easy to find –

120 l www.samuiholiday.com

heading up the hill and away from Chaweng into Chaweng Noi (in the direction of Lamai), just look out for the frontage of Sheraton Samui. Dr Frogs is just about the next thing on the left after this. Sit, relax, and avail yourself of some of their super eats – and then ask to take a peek at the villas that are frogging down the hill while you’re there!

Rob De Wet

____________________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7744 8505. www.drfrogssamui.com www.boujissamui.com

S A M U I

ENJOY THE VIEW • FEEL THE QUALITY • LIVE THE LIFESTYLE

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www.samui-ultimate-samui.com

KOH SAMUI www.samuiholiday.com l 121

122 l www.samuiholiday.com

NET Even though it’s a world-class tourist destination, Samui still relies very much on its fishing industry. www.samuiholiday.com l 123

In the early 60s, when Khun Urai was a little girl living on Samui’s north coast, life was very different to how it is today. “As a kid,” she recalls wistfully, “we used to go down to the beach in the afternoon and start putting together a fire. My parents would be out fishing, and when they returned, we’d cook some of what they’d caught over it, and that would be our dinner.” There weren’t any hotels back then – the first tourists hadn’t yet come to the island, and its heady future wasn’t to start for another decade. Samui depended on its fishing and farming. “There was plenty to go round,” says Khun Urai. “As a child you could wander into anyone’s house in the village – there were no locks – and just help yourself to food. If you took a flashlight and went out on a boat at night and shone it into the sea, the fish would just appear, attracted by the light. The sea was full of fish.” It was an idyllic life, and she grew up with happy memories.

Something of that way of life still remains, even to this day. Walk along

124 l www.samuiholiday.com

many of the beaches on the island in the early morning, and you’ll see people fishing for their food. In Maenam you’ll find, for example, old people standing utterly still in waist-deep water with home-made fishing rods, waiting for their daily catch. Khun Benjawan, almost 80, throws out a line into the sea and pulls down her lampshade-like hat closer over her face. “Let’s see if I can get something,” she says, but the laugh that goes with her words is tinged by uncertainty. “We’re all worried about fishing. Fewer fish now. Things aren’t the same.” She’s momentarily distracted by the loud whine of a longtail boat going past, and then her eyes go back to the sea with casual determination. The longtails have a car engine mounted on the back, and from the engine a long manoeuvrable pole sticks out with a propeller on the end. The boatman stands up the entire time he’s riding the waves, and manoeuvres the boat by moving the propeller. It requires great strength. He’ll go out to sea, throw out a net and trawl the waters for a catch that he’ll sell to families and restaurants. So far, so idyllic.

www.samuiholiday.com l 125

But these traditional ways of fishing are swamped by the commercial interests that now predominate. Everything on Samui has become more commercial, and that includes the fishing. The industry has become ever more important on Samui, even though the main earner is now tourism.

With more than a million visitors coming to the island every year, and with an enormously increased population, not just of locals, but also expatriates from every corner of the globe, the pressure’s on to land enough fish to feed a demanding populace. And not just on Samui or even Thailand; the country is the third-biggest exporter of fish and fish products in the world. Thai exports are worth more than a chunky seven billion dollars a year, and Thailand is avidly trying to export even more.

Only China still beats Thailand, seconded by Norway.

Night time, and a few kilometres west of Koh Tao, Khun Somsak has been tracking the shifting movements on his sonar, and exasperatedly moves on further from the shore, looking for shoals of fish. He’s not alone, and around him other boats are doing the same, chasing after fish that aren’t so much elusive, but just aren’t there at all due to over-fishing. Khun Somsak uses, as all the boats around him do, very powerful lights that shine down through the water to attract the fish.

The view from the shore of Koh Tao is impressive. There are so many lights it looks like there’s an entire town strung out on the horizon. Many holidaymakers just presume that they’re looking at the mainland, and are surprised at how densely populated it is. They’re even more surprised to find out that the phantom town they believe they’re looking at is in reality just countless fishing boats out to sea.

There’s no let-up in the competition to catch fish, and just to break even is getting harder every year. And though the country continues, as a whole, to be successful, it’s hard for the individual boat-owners to bring in a profitable catch. Well over 1,000 kg of fish is needed by operators like Khun Somsak just to keep their operation going.

Morning in the small fishing port of Nathon. Small clusters of fishing boats have returned to moor up here, one against the other. It’s all go.

It’s been a good night for most, reckons one of the captains, and the overall atmosphere seems upbeat. And what about the coming night?

“Same,” he says and flashes a smile. “Maybe.”

126 l www.samuiholiday.com

Large amounts of ice are being poured into the holds of the boats, while crewmembers go about the business of cleaning the fish and the decks. Everything’s done with casual but breath-taking speed. Cramped tightly together, the crews on each boat are a tight choreography of intent and dexterity, unloading the night’s catch and mopping up. There are always nets to repair and equipment to check. Life at sea is busy – even when you get back to land. To the untrained eye, everything seems to be happening simultaneously, and the next step in the process has already long since started. There’s an urgency to sort all the fish, weigh them and sell them.

A lot of the sorted fish will end up in the island’s markets, where they’ll be sold individually or bought by hotels and restaurants.

Everyone here at the port is an old hand, and knows that freshness is the main concern for everyone. Samui’s restaurants are renowned for their fresh fish, and since this is an island, the diners expect nothing less. The next step is to load up the trucks and take the fish to the market.

As the island heads into the future, there’s more and more talk about letting the seas restock, and having stricter controls concerning what’s fished, when and in what quantity. Meanwhile, visit any market – go to the fish market at Big Buddha for example, or the large market at Laem Din in Chaweng – and you’ll see there’s still more than enough for everyone. Seafood remains incredibly popular on Samui, and some restaurants are now demanding that the fish that gets to them has been correctly caught by legal boats that carry crew that are licensed.

Consumers, too, are also concerned. After all, where would Samui be without its seafood restaurants?

Dimitri Waring

128 l www.samuiholiday.com

ENDLESSLY SPECIAL

Come in and discover the fantastic environment, service and facilities at Anantara Bophut Koh Samui Resort.

Anantara Bophut is conveniently located right next to Fisherman’s Village. You can access the resort directly from the beach, just follow the beach promenade to the western end, go down to the beach and you are there, or from the rather special entrance on the ring-road in Bophut. As you turn into the resort, you travel over a long rustic wooden bridge which spans a gorgeous lily pond and begin to enter a timeless oasis of calm and tranquillity. As the lush tropical landscaped gardens surround and envelop you, your whole being starts to become calmer and more relaxed. Turn right for the parking area; go straight on for the reception and meet the first three monkeys! Different monkey statues are seen throughout the resort, and are a reference to Thai mythology. The hero of the story, Prince Rama, is aided by monkeys, and most notably the magical white-faced monkeygeneral Hanuman and his army. With Hanuman’s help, Prince Rama successfully defeats an evil ten-headed demon and rescues the Princess. Throughout the story, the monkey is portrayed as being helpful, clever and brave. On Samui, monkeys work to help harvest the coconuts, this was the main economy of the island before tourism took over.

The reception area is a traditional Thai building, with teak wooden beams and high ceilings. Here you will experience the exceptional friendliness and helpfulness of the Anantara staff, a theme mirrored throughout the resort. A passion for genuine, heartfelt hospitality is a prerequisite for working here, as is professionalism and a drive to succeed. Demonstrating just as much character as the resort they work in, the team members are the heart and soul of Anantara, providing expertise and grounded hospitality to all guests.

If you are here on holiday, relaxation is probably what you seek, so head for the spa. Anantara Spa is separated from the resort itself by soothing water gardens, and another rustic wooden bridge takes you over to the huge wooden doors that provide a stunning entrance. Beyond those doors, you will find over 3,000 square metres of tropical greenery, a tranquil oasis, a soothing, calm green space. There are hammocks dotted around the gardens and you can just sit quietly in the shade of the trees and contemplate life, or read a book. But whilst you relax in this gorgeous, harmonious environment, don’t miss out on one of the spa treatments or the Ayurvedic healing rituals.

www.samuiholiday.com l 129

There are many pampering treatments to choose from. Just discuss your likes and dislikes with the Spa Manager, Khun Joy. She will listen carefully and then advise and recommend the best treatment and therapist for you. All therapists are highly trained and genuinely want you to have the best experience. The Anantara Signature Massage is a 60 or 90-minute massage experience, and starts with a floral foot ritual.

Your therapist will gently clean your feet with a salt scrub and floral water rinse to promote relaxation throughout the body. She will then use a special blend of oils, and with purpose-designed massage movements will stimulate circulation and promote deep relaxation, whilst restoring the flow of energy, or prana, along the meridian lines. There are showers for before and after your treatment, and then a refreshing drink is served to help bring you back to the real world.

There are six separate, fully air-conditioned treatment rooms, all with their own changing area and huge al fresco bath tubs for outdoor soaking and relaxation. All have glass walls separating the inside treatment area from the outside bath tub area, so that you still see and feel part of the natural environment. The spa is open from 10:00 am until 10:00 pm.

If you feel a little like you are ‘floating on air’ after your spa experience, you may want to wander down to the huge freeform pool right that is right on the beach-front. It has islands with palm trees, man-size monkey statues spouting water, a swim-up bar, alcoves with massage jets and 130 l www.samuiholiday.com

plenty of sun-loungers both in the sun and shade, this can be a truly relaxing or a fun-filled pool area, whatever your mood is.

During the day, Anantara sparkles like a jewel waiting to be discovered on the shore. From the reception area, you step down into an oasis of calmness. Stretching seemingly endlessly, down to the Full Moon restaurant is a beautiful, huge and extremely well-tended lily pond. If you are lucky and visit at the right time of year, you will see hundreds of lilies in full bloom and smell their delicate fragrance. Lilies tend to bloom at their brightest in the cooler seasons, which on Samui is November through March. But at any time of year, the lily pond set amongst landscaped tropical gardens and lawns is a sight to behold.

At 6.30 pm every evening, some of the staff change into traditional Thai clothes and meet at the brightly painted elephant statue from the 2015 Elephant Parade in Bangkok. This is right outside the reception and near one end of the huge lily pond that traverses the resort. Here the Anantara team perform a ceremony of music and celebration, to welcome and prepare for the coming evening. And they sing, producing a sound which is somewhat similar to ‘happy yodelling’. They then set off to light flame torches set around the lily pond, and continue past the restaurant and down to the swimming pool where more torches are lit. The finale occurs with the lighting of two huge torches right at the front of the pool where the resort meets the beach. By now the sky has darkened, the

KAYAKING Explore the caves and beaches of the Angthong National Marine Park Offices located behind Bondi Pub in central Chaweng and on Chaweng Lake Road opposite Lake View For reservations please call 0 7730 0615 or 0 878 866 097

www.bluestars.info

torches give off an ambient glow, the transformation from day to night is now complete, and what a change! Anantara now becomes a romantic paradise, a calm sensual place for wining and dining. If you arrive at the main road entrance after dark, you will see that torches have also been lit along the length of the entrance bridge and around the area leading to the reception.

Whilst you are in Samui, don’t miss the opportunity to have lunch or dinner at Full Moon. This al fresco ‘contemporary island-style chargrill’ restaurant is on two levels. You can look out over the pool, beach and ocean with views out to the neighbouring island of Koh Pha-Ngan, or in the other direction towards the charming lily pond and gardens. Executive Chef, Christoph Lindner, is a French trained Luxembourg national, and he creates some truly sensational dishes in his kitchen. Menu highlights from the dinner menu include; Beef Tartar prepared at your table, Octopus Carpaccio; paper thin sliced octopus, Chang Mai greens, citrus and caviar. Follow this with one of six different Wagyu or Black Angus steaks, a rack of Australian lamb, Wild Caught Turbot, Orzo Risotto with shrimps, calamari, crab, mussels, tomato and basil or Ricotta and Spinach Ravioli with Portobello mushroom ragout. If you still have room, finish it all off nicely by indulging in a ‘Full Moon Kahlua’ Tiramisu.

The lunch menu is a lighter affair. Every month there are different ‘special dishes’, watch out for some different textured seaweed dishes and green, purple and white sea asparagus (salicornia). You can also order lunch from the dinner menu. And don’t worry if you have any special dietary requirements, Chef Christoph is very adaptable in his kitchen, so just let him know if you require vegetarian, vegan or gluten-free alternatives.

Full Moon is different to most restaurants. They offer a truly personalised and innovative dining journey, with tableside cooking and an expert salt guru offering six different types of salt with which to refine, flavour and enhance your dining experience. Choose from black volcanic, red clay, or pink Himalayan salt, to name just three. Savour the signature a la carte menu that features the finest from the ‘land and sea’; from freshly caught seafood to tender melt-in-the-mouth meats, all grilled to perfection.

Simple flavours that when bought together create something amazing for your senses.

Having steak? A selection of steak knives is presented and you get to

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choose your preference. Forget your reading glasses, don’t worry, a choice of strengths is available, allowing you to browse the menu with ease. Full Moon is definitely a top contender on Samui’s fine-dining scene, and has just recently been recognized with the prestigious “Best Restaurants” award by Thailand Tatler.

Oh and before or after you dine, take a walk around the Full Moon building and discover the ‘monkey wall’ - many different monkey faces created from clay, all alongside each other forming a monkey mosaic!

Have a special occasion or just want to spoil your partner for dinner?

Book a ‘Dining by Design’ experience. This is a romantic and very private dinner for two, and you can arrange to have it set up anywhere in the grounds of the resort, the beach, the gardens by the lily pond, even the gardens in the spa area. Your private dining space will be al fresco, with candles galore and light floaty drapes surrounding your intimate space. Select your personalised dining experience from a range of Thai, International or Asian Twist menus. The event coordinator is

Samui Discover authentic Indian Cuisine

Noori India Restaurant - Chaweng Center Chaweng Beach Road, opp. Chaweng Buri Noori India Restaurant - Chaweng South at Chaweng Cove Resort Noori India - Central Festival at Chaweng Beach Road Noori India Cooking Center - Chaweng South Soi Colibri, opp. Centara Grand Beach Resort

2012 WINNER

2013 WINNER

2014 WINNER

available to cater to your own individual and personal culinary wishes. Engagements, weddings or honeymoons, the weddings and events managers can support and organise perfectly to every whim and desire. Just ask and make it happen.

Make it a day out. Come along and play tennis, work out with a Muay Thai boxing session, take a cookery class or just relax, then enjoy the culinary delights and experience of Full Moon. And don’t forget to count the monkey statues. How many can you find?

Anantara. The word in Sanskrit means ‘without end’ and evokes the freedom, movement and harmony that are the spirit of the Anantara experience and culture. Life is a journey – be sure to make yours endlessly special.

Karan Ladd

_______________________________________________________ For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7742 8300-9. www.samui.anantara.com

For reservation (English) 0 867 407 873 or 0 7730 0757 For reservation (Thai) - 0 839 687 912 E-mail: nooriindia_samui@yahoo.com www.nooriindiasamui.com

WATER THRILLS For some of the best water fun on the island, head away from the sea to Samui Water Park Pink Elephant!

Koh Samui. A tropical island with dreamy white sands, palm-fringed beaches and a sky full of little fluffy clouds. It’s a holiday paradise. It’s a couple of weeks lazing by the pool and sipping cool drinks. It’s absolutely perfect – except for one small thing. The kiddie factor. If you’re here with your kids, then that adds another dimension to it all. It means that you’re always on the lookout for great restaurants – meaning not just good food but a play corner too. And, essentially, everything you do is geared to the kids; keeping them happy, keeping them safe, keeping them entertained. If they’re very young, they’ll play for ages with the little friends that they’ve made. But the closer to their teens that they get, the easier it is for them to get bored.

It can be tricky, striking the right balance. But, in the last few years, more and more fun things have emerged. Organised games on the beach. Resorts with nannies and playrooms. Shopping malls with playgrounds and rides.

And now, appearing half way through last year, a splendid water park, with features and rides that are geared to kids of all ages, grown-ups included!

Interestingly, it’s not close to the sea. And it’s also not based in Chaweng.

But instead, rather cleverly, it’s on the comparatively new road that goes over the mountain from Maenam to Lamai, about 1.5 kilometres away from the ring-road, on Soi 1 in Maenam. And its name? Samui Water Park Pink Elephant.

“Yes,” chuckled Khun Cat, the park’s manager, “when we started, nobody knew where we were. So we made some eye-catching signs of a pink elephant with arrows to point the way. And this kind-of stuck, with a lot of people calling us just the ‘Pink Elephant Water Park’. Ask a taxi driver for Samui Water Park and he might get confused. But say ‘Pink Elephant’ and he’ll know right away. Anyway,” Khun Cat continued, “there’s no need to come here in a taxi, which will be expensive. If you go onto our website and contact us, or phone us, then we will arrange transport for you to come here for only 150 baht.”

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That’s a point to be stressed, the part about the ‘pink elephant’. The full name of the park is ‘Samui Water Park’. But look on the Internet and there’s another park, a different one, with almost the same web address.

So it’s worth noting that the website address has ‘asia’ tacked on the end, as you’ll see at the bottom of this story.

This park is something rather special. Yes, I know we’re a little coconut island, and more than a few things are made out of bamboo that’s held together with sticky tape and string. But everything at Samui Water Park is constructed to world-class industrial standards; exactly the same sort of quality and engineering that you’ll find in, say, Florida. And the staff are very safety-conscious. In fact it might be worth pointing out that there are a couple of rides which are considered to be ‘adult’ – they are high, complex, fast and twisty (The Twister and the Superbowl Tower). And if your child is less than 1.3 metres in height, whatever their age, they won’t be permitted to ride on these particular attractions. Everything here is faithfully geared to safety; on the Superbowl ride, for example, there is a technique and sliding position needed. And the staff will demonstrate this to everyone who goes on it.

Although the ground-area is quite big, this isn’t a huge park and there are just 15 attractions in total, designed to cover all ages and needs, from the slow and placid to the fun and furious. The Lazy River, for example, is a 300-metre moat that circles the park, and has an artificial current. You can either drift around languidly, carried by the tide, or use one of the floaty devices on hand for this purpose. In similar vein, the wave pool is another lazy-day ride. And there are several flumes of different intensities. Furthermore, it’s all fresh water. Just compare this to an afternoon at the beach, where there’s no variety and every wave that catches you unaware scours your sinuses and coats your eyeballs with salt. The main thing to be said for the beach, really, is that it’s free.

Something to be aware of right from the start, though, is that you and your kids are going to get a serious dose of sun, even on those days that

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Welcome to Sa-ard’s Watersports Center on Koh Samui. Where everyday can be an aquatic adventure – above and below the crystal clear blue waters of the Gulf of Thailand.

are cloudy. You need to prepare for this. Lots of sun cream is an absolute must, plus sunblock for tender areas and the usual hats and T-shirts. And another tip: buy some spare cheap plastic flipflops, the sort you can cheerfully junk at the end of your holiday.

The sun here really does get hot, and this means that some of the rides, in particular the ones with metal steps, can heat-up to the point where it’s painful on bare feet. Happily, there’s enough shade from the bushes and trees inside and around the rides to make things bearable overall.

This question doesn’t arise with the restaurant area, however. And it’s not just an eatery, there are also two pleasant and shady bars (one’s even got an outside Jacuzzi!), plus an ice-cream and coffee space. The prices here are very reasonable, and Thai food and snacks are served alongside Western items such as sandwiches, burgers, chicken nuggets and fries.

It’s generally a very reliable indication as to the integrity of a venue in the way they respond to comments posted on TripAdvisor.

And Khun Cat spends several hours a day ingesting these comments and composing pertinent replies to most of them. This isn’t Florida, it’s Samui. And this water park hasn’t been created to cater for thrill-seeking teens, but rather for everyone in the family, young and old alike. Thus if you take this on board and go prepared for a lazy day of sitting, then splashing, then sipping, sitting and splashing some more, you won’t be disappointed. You may even be thrilled, in fact!

Join us and discover what r eally makes these islands so very special.

Our brand new catamaran Fountaine Pajot Belize 43 “Kindred Spirit” can comfortably take 15 people on a day trip and sleep 6 people on over-night excursions.

The starboard hull has a double stateroom with ensuite bathroom and living area. There are also two double state rooms in the port hull with a shared bathroom. You’ll also find a large galley and a living area with CD/DVD player and a 28 inch colour TV. All the cabins and living areas are fully air-conditioned.

Sa-ard’s Watersports Center also offers Private Speedboat tours to the beaches and snorkeling destinations of the surrounding islands.

Manager and Skipper is Sa-ard, one of Thailand’s most celebrated windsurfers. He took part in the Olympics 1984 in Los Angeles and 1992 in Barcelona, was a long time member of the Thai National Windsurfing Team, has been Asian Champion and 5 times Gold Medal Winner in the South East Asian Games. You simply could not be in better hands!

Rob De Wet

_______________________________________________________ For more information, telephone 0 7742 3548. www.samuiwaterpark.asia.com

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TROUBLE IN PARADISE Common holiday maladies: what they are and what to do about them.

The vast majority of holidaymakers who come to Samui never experience any mishap, malady or require any medical help. Samui and Thailand as a whole are fairly healthy places. But it’s only natural to worry, and that’s not a bad thing when it comes to looking after yourself when abroad. In this article, we take a look at some of the common problems that can beset the holidaymaker. Most can very easily be avoided, and all are fairly easy to sort out. Suffice to say that some people incur major problems, but this is beyond the scope of this article.

Topping the list of ailments is the possibility of getting an upset stomach and diarrhoea.

This happens fairly commonly, and is usually mild and temporary. It may be enough to visit one of the island’s chemists, most of whom speak adequate English. They will ask questions and prescribe the appropriate medicine.

Most stomach problems clear up quickly, but it’s best not to leave them if they don’t. Some may worsen and cause major health problems. Some low grade types of food poisoning can continue indefinitely if left untreated.

If the symptoms aren’t severe and consist of nausea but with no actual vomiting and maybe low-grade diarrhoea, a recommended medication is Disento. It comes in a packet, and you just take two tablets every four hours. You can also use Ultracarbon, to absorb gas and toxins from the food poisoning. Again, it’s a question of two tablets every four hours, but don’t take at the same time as Disento. Leave 30 minutes between them.

However, some people will have more severe cases. Gastroenteritis is a condition accompanied by various symptoms such as stomach ache, nausea, vomiting, and diarrhoea, with or without fever. Not all these symptoms need to be present, but generally they’re intense. In such cases, don’t wait for the condition to get better by itself, but go straight to the doctor. On Samui, this usually means going to a hospital where you will be seen as an out-patient. Gastroenteritis is a major cause for hospital visits and treatment.

It generally doesn’t last longer than a few days, if treated, but without treatment can feel unbearable.

A secondary problem can also spring up once you’ve been suffering, and that’s dehydration. Often gastroenteritis and dehydration go together, making an unpleasant combination. Even after the gastroenteritis has cleared up, your body may be depleted and you’ll need to re-hydrate yourself. This can be done by drinking lots of water and taking oral rehydration sachets, which are available, again, at the chemists.

There are no sure-fire ways to avoid gastroenteritis, but you can minimize the risk by being cautious. Eat freshly-cooked food. Avoid oysters, shell-fish and raw food, and check that all sea-food and meat is properly cooked.

If your chicken meat is pink in the middle, it’s time to put the fork down. If food is being taken from a freezer and put back again, this can be a major breeding ground for bacteria. Many problems arise from seafood and meat that hasn’t been properly cooked, or which has been stored or handled wrongly. This is something we all know.

Never drink tap water anywhere on Samui, and when drinking from a can, always use a straw, as the Thais do. The litany continues: avoid swallowing sea water or river water. Ice cubes are usually safe on Samui, but there have been problems at times. Don’t eat or stay in a place that has poor drainage or smells bad. Always wash your hands before eating. Use your intuition if you’re not sure if something is a risk, and err on the side of caution.

Dehydration can also be a problem that may have absolutely nothing to do with an upset stomach: the heat alone may cause it. Symptoms may not be noticeable, just tiredness and a lack of energy. It’s easily remedied by getting more electrolytes into your body. Go to a chemist’s and ask for sports rehydration drinks – about five Baht a sachet. Basically, you’ll need to rest, keep rehydrated, spend time in the shade or in air-conditioned rooms, avoid excessive alcohol intake and be careful if you are exercising in the heat.

If you suspect you have a heat-related illness or heat exhaustion, then go immediately to a hospital.

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If you are looking for something wonderful and different, Zazen restaurant is the place for you to discover. Zazen is truly one of the most romantic and serene beachside dining restaurants on the island. Every night this charming establishment lights up over 100 candles to set the ambiance for you to experience.

Tel: 077 425 085, 081 737 8771 Email: fb@samuizazen.com Website: www.samuizazen.com

gain ove r a e all t v n o a l r u n a i st Fall Zazen Re at

Samui Every conceivable Indian dish is on offer here – and they are all delicious! Conveniently located in Central Chaweng, the restaurant is open from 11:00 am – 11:30 pm.

For further information, reservations, and take-away orders (free delivery in Chaweng area), telephone 0 7741 3315.

Asia Travel

Even the most casual visitor to Samui has heard how dangerous it can be to ride a motorbike here. It looks safe, however. Because of the poor roads and their congestion, most drivers and riders aren’t speeding along. So riding a motorbike looks easy, and what could go wrong pottering around the island’s palm-fringed roads? Well, a lot. That’s the simple answer. Even the slightest motorbike injury will severely limit your holiday fun. Even if you just fall off – due to skidding on sand or sheer inexperience – your wounds will probably require dressing at a hospital. Due to the ease that infection can spread in tropical heat, you’ll need to take the doctor’s advice very carefully. And he or she is bound to tell you that as long as you have the bandages on, you shouldn’t get the affected area wet. This means no swimming. And as that’s probably something you like to do, this being an island, it’s going to limit your enjoyment. Avoid hiring a bike but if you decide to do so, make sure you wear a helmet that’s of substantial quality, wear shoes (this may sound obvious but not everyone does) and never drink and drive. The most common motorbike accidents are those that involve skin abrasion. You’ll need to go to one of the local hospitals, be evaluated by a doctor, and have your wound cleaned and in all probability return regularly for wound dressing. Incidentally, rented motorbikes do not come with insurance, but it is now possible to purchase this separately (Google ‘Siam Solution Insurance’ for more information).

Asia Travel is the most popular travel agency on Koh Samui. Established 15 years ago, they are well known to provide updated travel information reasonably priced for all international and domestic needs. Their second to none consultancy service will help you with all aspects of long or short stay requirements such as visa, work permit or company registration and finances. Asia Travel is well known for their quality services as mentioned in The Lonely Planet.

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Bites are quite common, and as with abrasion wounds, it’s easy for the bite to become infected. What will bite you here on Samui? Top of the list are dogs. This is followed by monkeys. Avoid cats, too, though they’re not so likely to bite. Snakes rarely bite as they tend to move away from humans, but be careful in long grass. Stamp your feet if you’re not sure – the vibration will make the snake move. Geckos and lizards can bite but you’d have to be very unlucky for this to happen; even if they may stare at you with impunity, they’ll move fast if you approach them. If bitten by a dog, cat or monkey, then you should go and see a doctor. You’ll probably be given a course of anti-rabies vaccinations (three shots are administered over the course of a month) and you may need a tetanus booster. If you’re bitten by a centipede that’s red and looks something like a zipper, then this will be a very painful experience and you may be advised to go to a doctor for the pain alone.

Shake out your shoes, if you’ve left them outside, though you’re more likely to find a frog in them than a centipede. Generally be cautious around animals, even if they appear friendly.

Getting bitten by a mosquito may seem harmless in comparison, and generally is, but you need to protect yourself against them by using mosquito repellent (available in all pharmacies, supermarkets and convenience stores).

Close your windows as dusk falls, but be careful during the day, too. You probably know that mosquitoes can cause dengue fever. Symptoms include any or all of the following severe headache, high fever, vomiting and muscle and joint pain. If you suspect that you have dengue fever, go to a hospital and quickly. But there can also be other problems with mosquitoes, too.

Some bites can get infected and if, for example, your legs have large red inflamed spots where they’ve been bitten, then go to a pharmacy.

To relieve the itchiness of a bite, rub in some Thai medication that’s unforgettably called ‘White Monkey Holding Peach Balm’. Available everywhere, you’ll recognize the balm by its box that shows ... uh, a white

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monkey holding peach balm. However, you may ponder the name and the drawing so long that the itchiness simply goes by the time you’ve applied the balm. But it works – and fast.

A different kind of skin problem is also quite common here, too. It’s called prickly heat and is an itchy rash of small, raised red spots that causes a stinging or prickling sensation. It can occur anywhere, but it most often targets your face, neck, back, chest or thighs. Head for just about anywhere for relief: convenience stores, supermarkets and pharmacies all stock the goto remedy, Prickly Heat Powder. Look for an old-fashioned type of tin picturing a snake shot through with an arrow, and never mind serpents or archery, immediately apply to the affected areas for instant relief. Spending a couple of hours in an air-conditioned room per day also helps. Babies and children are also more at risk of getting prickly heat, because their sweat glands are not fully developed.

Other rashes are best treated by a visit to a doctor – again a hospital will be able to help. Rashes can also be caused, for example, by the sun, a sudden food reaction, or contact with an object that sets them off.

Jellyfish are to be avoided. If the water’s clear then wearing goggles when swimming will reveal some of them. Pour vinegar over the sting to ease the pain if you do get stung. If you’re stung by a Box jellyfish, then go to a hospital immediately. Check shorelines for washed-up jellyfish, and if you see one, then you can reckon there may be others in the water itself.

A danger that many overlook while seemingly keeping it in mind is ... the sun. Many people will go easy on the sun-tan cream if the sky is overcast or the sun is veiled and they’ll put aside their hats, too. These are bad mistakes to make as you can still get tanned and therefore burned if the sky is overcast. And just because it’s not hot, doesn’t mean to say your skin’s not

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burning. Sitting on a speedboat, enjoying the cooling breeze may lull you into a false sense of security. We associate sun burn with lying out on our towels too long, but it can just as easily happen if you’re on a boat trip. A pharmacy can help you out if you’re sunburned, but for anything serious, then head for the hospitals.

A couple of other things. Although not so common, be careful of leaving your drink unattended especially if you’re in a doubtful kind of bar. Sometimes, drinks get spiked. Passing out is just one the unpleasant symptoms. Your wallet may also, of course, be affected.

And speaking of bars, be careful who you take home with you.

Condoms break and here in Thailand sex can be far, far riskier than in many other places in the world. If the worst happens, head for a hospital where the doctor will first determine what tests you’ll need. If you’re a guy thinking about having ‘a good time’ then maybe just treat yourself to a preventative dose of Google and read about the scams, troubles, and dangers of casual sex here in Thailand.

Summing it all up, motorbikes, sunburn and upset stomach are the most common maladies that can spoil your holiday. Avoid hiring a bike, put on the sun tan and you’ll avoid many of the problems. The upset stomach is a bit trickier – but if you exercise care where you eat and what you eat, you’ll already be cutting down on the likelihood of falling sick. And if you do fall sick, there are five hospitals to cater for your needs as well as some hundred or so pharmacies. Remember that your little ones are probably going to be more susceptible to the sun and maybe to bad food. But by taking some simple precautions, you’re statistically very likely to have a care-free time on Samui.

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Private real estate with incredible 180-Degree views The actual view from this house is the picture above. This 4-bedroom house has been built according to European standards on 972 sqm. It is centrally located near Nathon and only 500 metres from the main road in a small, warm and tidy community. Priced very competitively, this house is ideal for couples or young families ready to live in paradise.

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