August 2013

Romantic Dining

SAMUI FREE COPY

September is a great time to be on Samui and here, as usual, you’ll read about the best places to enjoy a meal, a drink or a social gathering on the island.

In this issue, our regular column, ‘Kitchen King’, is actually about a kitchen queen – Chef Lamyai at the Siam Residence in Lipa Noi. In fact we’re touring the island and covering stories on each of the coasts.

Heading around to Bang Po, The Terrace restaurant at The Passage is a great place to enjoy the quieter part of the north coast.

And at Hansar in Fisherman’s Village, an organic garden produces ingredients for the hotel’s restaurant and spa. In Chaweng, read about the signature dish at Drink Gallery at The Library and hear what’s new at Olivio. Heading towards Lamai, find out why The Patio restaurant at The Pavilion has a strong following.

Of course for the foodies out there curious about ingredients both exotic and otherwise, in this issue we fill you in on monkfish in our ‘Catch of the Day’ story.

Our ‘Tropical Pick’ this month is breadfruit, and you can find out which herbal tea suits your mood or ailment.

And who can resist a good cheese and wine get-together. The two are made for each other like sunshine and Samui. So with that, raise your glass of robust red, take a bite of a piquant cheese, say ‘chokdee ’ or cheers, put your feet up and enjoy reading further…

at Chaweng Beach

www.siamwininganddining.com

1st _ 30th SEPTEMBER 2013

Sareeraya Villas & Suites Call + 66 (0) 77 914 333 www.sareeraya.com

SAMUI

Graeme Malley Editor

Angkanang Somwang (Peung) Graphic Designer

Ugrit Komlue (Grit) Photographer

Seksak Kerdkanno (Klauy) Webmaster

Rob De Wet Feature Writer

Rosanne Turner Feature Writer

Colleen Setchell Feature Writer

Peter James Feature Writer

Annie Lee Feature Writer

Nipawan Chuaysagul (Ning) Sales & Marketing Director ning@siammap.com Tel: 0 898 783 891

Henrik Bjørk Managing Director

Siam Map Company Ltd. 52/6, Samui Ring Road, Moo 3, Bo Phut, Samui, 84320 Thailand Tel: (66) 0 7742 2201 Fax: (66) 0 7741 3523 email: info@siammap.com www.siammap.com All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of editorial or pictorial content in any manner is prohibited without written permission from Siam Map Company Ltd. Whilst every precaution has been taken in the preparation of this publication, Siam Map Company Ltd. assumes no responsibility for errors or omissions. Neither is any liability assumed for damages resulting from the use of the information contained herein. c Siam Map Company Ltd. 2013

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Getting to know the unique, but aesthetically challenged, monkfish.

It’s just as well we don’t always choose our food for how attractive it is. If we did, we’d miss out on things like pineapple, oysters, prawns, liver, ginger, artichokes or even the humble passion fruit which doesn’t look so appealing with its wrinkly skin. So when it comes to monkfish, with its oversized head; wide mouth with fang-like teeth; a narrow body out of proportion to its huge head; spikes; fat lips; huge paddlelike pectoral fins; and mottled brown warty skin, we need to just be grateful to the first person who discovered it was good for eating, because this fish isn’t going to be winning any beauty contests anytime soon.

The genus Lophius usually has long spikes (or filaments if you prefer the scientific term), sprouting from its head and back. The longest one on top of its head, can be angled to hang in front of the fish’s mouth, and is used as a lure to attract its prey, which the monkfish then greedily swallows whole. It isn’t fussy about what it eats cod, lobster and even sea birds are all possible options for lunch. The jaw action is an automatic reflex triggered by anything touching this long spike. So, if you experience a moment of sympathy for this less than attractive fish, I would highly recommend not stroking the top of its head!

Monkfish is the English name given to a few species of fish found in the northwest Atlantic, the anglerfish (genus Lophius) and the angel shark (genus Squatina). Members of the Lophius genus are sometimes called goosefish, fishingfrogs, frog-fish, and sea-devils. The angel shark family are a similar shape to the anglerfish, but are actually unrelated because they are elasmobranchs (cartilaginous creatures such as sharks, rays and skates). As far as names go, monkfish sounds a darn side more edible than sea-devil or frog-fish, what do you think?

They do have a reputation for being cannibals, however, this only seems to apply to the larger fish. Females typically reach around 99cm living to roughly 12 years old and the males only reach 88cm and live to around nine. You see? Males aren’t always the stronger of the species in this world!

The only part of this fish that is edible is the tail, and in some countries the liver, which is considered a delicacy. The fish is available all year round and its meat is dense and sweet and

has been compared to lobster. It was, at one time, even referred to as the ‘poor man’s lobster’.

It is low in saturated fat which makes it a healthy addition to your dinner plate. However, as with anything, once it became popular and the demand increased, so did the prices. Today prices for monkfish can easily exceed lobster and other top quality seafood.

Preparation is easy, the outer loose skin is easily stripped away, as is the pink, glassy membrane underneath which can shrink around the meat when cooking and make the normally tender meat seem tough. Luckily there is only one huge central bone to contend with, and once this is removed, there aren’t any others. The fish is sold in markets either whole with its head removed or the meat is sold as steaks.

The tender meat lends itself to soups and stews but can also be stir-fried, barbecued and pan fried. It is, however, best cooked with a little moisture. It goes well with flavours such as chilli, soy, chorizo, smoked paprika, sesame and Parma ham. It is one of the fish used in the traditional French Bouillabaisse or fish broth. If you’re making this dish and your market is sold

out of monkfish, you can substitute with snapper, sea bass, halibut, or sea scallops.

A great way to cook this unique tasting fish is to cut it into two centimetre thick pieces and sear them quickly in olive oil. Remove them from the pan and make a sauce using the pan oil, with chopped prosciutto, canned tomatoes, fresh garlic and chilli. Put the monkfish back in the sauce, and let it soften while you cook some pasta. When done, drain the pasta and serve with the delicious sauce and fish on top. Nice and easy.

As with any fish nowadays, the question of sustainability is an issue. Up until the 1970s, monkfish was considered a trash fish when caught in trawler nets in the US and was used as scampi in the UK and Europe. But in the 1980s, it started to be commercially fished in response to demand. In 1999, scientists in America determined that monkfish had dropped below sustainable levels and a plan was made to rebuild the stocks using a strategy that managed the harvest levels and allowed the stocks to replenish themselves. By 2008, it was back up to acceptable levels and is now monitored closely.

Discover authentic

Indian Cuisine Samui Noori India Restaurant - Chaweng Centerr Chaweng Beach Road, opp. Chaweng Buri Noori India Restaurant - Chaweng South at Chaweng Cove Resort outh Noori India Cooking Center - Chaweng South ort Soi Colibri, opp. Centara Grand Beach Resort For reservations (English) - 0 867 407 873 or 0 7741 3108 For reservations (Thai) - 0 813 960 283 E-mail: nooriindia_samui@yahoo.com www.nooriindiasamui.com

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Looks Aren’t Everything

In recreational fishing, size limits exist st and in some places individuals are not allowed wed to catch monkfish for commercial purposes. oses. This just goes to show that with some rules es and monitoring, it is easy to recover a diminishing minishing species.

Monkfish is served in a few hotels and d resorts here on Samui. Why not give it a go, but try hard to concentrate on the taste and not to picture its face as you take your first mouthful!

Colleen Setchell

Romantic views, soothing sounds and classic Italian fare with a modern approach combine to please the most discerning diner.

Olivio - a must for visitors and locals alike.

Olivio ~ beachfront at Baan Haad Ngam Boutique Resort Chaweng Beach.

Free round trip transfer from Chaweng, Bophut and Choeng Mon. For reservation please call 0 7723 1500 www.siamwininganddining.com

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Tropical Pick

September’s Fruit of The Month – The Breadfruit.

Some things are a must during your stay in Thailand. You must visit the Royal Palace and the floating market. You must see traditional Thai dancing, go to a ‘cabaret show’, and travel on the Skytrain in Bangkok. And it would be a sin not to experience the succulent delights of eating (and smelling) a durian fruit. There may be other things, too, and a lot of these you just can’t do on Samui. But the durian is one that you can.

Everyone gets to know about durians, sooner or later. Love it or hate it, you can’t fail to be impressed. It’s huge, covered in nasty spikes and smells like a boatload of dead mermaids. But it tastes heavenly!

And then, the other mighty fruit that you’ll come across here is the jackfruit. It’s a cousin of the durian, both from the mulberry family (honest!) and both are of the sub-genus Artocarpus.

Jackfruits are much less scary than Durians, but they retain their dignity by being the largest fruit in the world. The daddy of them all emerged in Indonesia in 1989, weighed 94 pounds and

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measured 32 inches at its widest point. Try adding a slice of that to your Martini!

And, then, somewhere in-between the two, and, mostly ignored, comes another cousin, the breadfruit. It’s not as dramatic (or as tasty) as the durian. It’s not as huge (or as regal) as the jackfruit. In fact, although it’s grown in Thailand, it’s not considered terribly useful, and isn’t a great commercial hit. Durians are the fruit-hooligans that can boast that they are banned in hotels and other public places throughout Asia. And jackfruits can smile academically and smugly about being in the Guinness Book of World Records. But, although the quiet little breadfruit (it never gets to be bigger than a kiddie’s football) doesn’t say much, it has the most colourful story of them all.

Breadfruit – Artocarpus altilis – originated in a vast area, extending from New Guinea through to Malaysia and up into India. It was spread in the Pacific-area by migrating Polynesians, and was first seen by Europeans in 1595. The famous

Captain Bligh had a ship-full of them on The Bounty in 1792, but he lost the cargo of 1,015 breadfruit plants; thrown overboard when his crew decided to mutiny.

However, breadfruit did finally arrive there, and is now a part of South Pacific legend, having become the staple diet for islanders throughout the Pacific islands. Only bananas and breadfruit can survive the frequent tropical storms that destroy that area. Plus, every tribe had its enemies. If the hurricanes didn’t get your crops, then your enemies did. Destroying your enemy’s crops was the second-greatest victory in Polynesian society. It was second only to obtaining your enemy’s ‘mana’ – and that involved eating him. Oh, what tales the little round breadfruit could tell!

Actually, I can understand why breadfruit is not top of the pops in Thailand. Although the Pacific islanders need it to survive, that isn’t the case over here. We’ve all got rice coming out of our ears. And with all those sweet and juicy fruits,

like God’s Smarties, dropping to the ground all over Thailand, one has to pose the question – what’s the point of breadfruit?

There, now I’ve gone and hurt its (collective) feelings. Well, you can hold your head up, old fruit. Because one can feed cattle and livestock on the leaves of the breadfruit tree. The husk of the breadfruit is full of gummy latex that’s great for catching birds, and gluing feathers into ceremonial headdresses. And, if you mix it with coconut oil, it makes your boats waterproof, too.

And that’s just for starters.

Malaysians wear clothes made from the bark, and, in the Philippines, it’s made into harnesses for water buffalos. And it would seem that the male flowers can be used to make very elegant loincloths. A stew of the leaves is believed to lower blood pressure, and the juice can cure ear-ache. And if you’ve got tooth-ache, then rub the roasted flowers onto your gums. It’s just the job!

In Spanish it’s called ‘fruta de pan’ and in French it’s ‘fruit a pain’. In Honduras, you’ll need to ask for ‘mazapan’, but call it ‘castano de Malabar’ if you ever go to Yucatan. And in Malaysia it’s ‘kelur’ – but while you’re in Thailand, if you want one, then just ask for ‘sah-kaay’.

But, sadly, unless you’re living in a tree somewhere and want a new loincloth, or have buffalos to harness, then, despite its many splendid rural uses, breadfruit won’t be on your shopping list. Durians? Probably. And those little, red, hairy rambutans that taste like nectar? Well, they’re a must, too. But, although it’s a truly interesting fruit, there’s only one thing I can say about actually eating breadfruit. And that is that it’s entirely – up to you!

Rob De Wet

Kitchen

Queen Chef Lamyai at Siam Residence goes out of her way for each guest.

Tucked away on the west of the island lies a quiet, peaceful, deluxe boutique resort called Siam Residence. It turns out this resort has something very special - its head chef, Khun Lamyai.

For me personally, it was quite an honour to meet someone who has been a chef for more than half my lifetime, and I discovered Khun Lamyai has come a long way since her first days in the kitchen which were, incidentally, right here at Siam Residence.

Back then, more than 20 years ago, the head chef was an Austrian gentleman and, taking Khun Lamyai under his wing, he spent more than six years teaching her everything he knew, sharing his skills, tips and tricks about preparing European food. That’s probably why you'll find things like Schnitzel on the menu along with other European dishes. You'll also find the menu is in both German and English. The resort is very popular with Austrian and German holidaymakers so it seems she has nailed the techniques of cooking authentic European food.

Khun Lamyai only started cooking when she was 22. There are no stories of her serving five-course meals to her family before her 10th birthday, but she does love her job now. In this day and age, it's wonderful to hear someone talk about their work with obvious love.

Her cooking passion hasn't been passed down to her daughter, who, although very proud of her mum and what she's capable of creating, is more than happy to let her mum cook for her and her family. Very spicy curries or fried noodles are usually what appear on the table at dinner times at home. She smiles as she says that although her daughter is also involved in the hotel industry, she can be found perfecting her English in customer relations rather than learning how lemongrass and coconut milk go together.

Back in the restaurant, Khun Lamyai and her team of six, start serving breakfast at 7:00 am. Guests can choose from English fry-up breakfasts to continental options or even healthy muesli and yoghurt. There are no Thai breakfast options unless there are Thai guests in the resort, in which case the traditional rice porridge is on offer.

Lunch starts at 12:00 pm and the restaurant remains open until around 11:00 pm. The chef's hours depend on how busy the resort is, but judging from Khun Lamyai's loyalty, she's not really concerned with how many hours she works as long as she has enough time to get home and complete her household chores.

There is an extensive seafood selection on the dinner menu which is bought fresh from the market every morning, ensuring you're getting the absolute best quality dishes. If you order seafood from the menu, you'll know that earlier on that day, it was alive and well and living in the Gulf of Thailand. Lobster, prawns, red snapper, white snapper and squid are all available to tempt you.

The restaurant’s menu here is used as a rough guide. Khun Lamyai seems to act as a personal chef to each guest here. Yes, I’m sure you’ve heard that in most restaurants, you can ask for, for example, salad instead of chips, or more spice, or no mushrooms, but here, she will happily personalises anything (and I mean anything) for each guest. She checks with each guest how they like their food, if something needs to be added or taken away or if you have any special request, she will fulfil it for you.

When I told her I quite fancied rambutan ice cream with pineapple sauce, without blinking an eye, she told me no problem. Maybe you want curried fish for breakfast, maybe you want fried fruit for lunch, or a chicken and cheese toasted sandwich for dinner. Just ask and you will receive. Now that’s good customer service.

Being aware that her guests might not all enjoy spicy food, she will also change any dish to match the guest’s 'spiciness' requirement - as long as they enjoy the food, she is happy. If the guests haven't been to Thailand before or perhaps have had no experience of Thai food, she will ask questions about their likes and dislikes, what meat they like, if they're a vegetarian, etc., and then create a personal dish just for them and yes, there's a good chance it won't be on the menu.

There's something extra special about Khun Lamyai and her relationship with the guests here and this is what makes her so different. Her personal touch, mentioned above, doesn't stop there. On request, in conjunction with the hotel, she will take guests in the hotel minivan to the local market in the mornings. Here she will introduce them to the many fruits and vegetables as well as various meat products on offer and will explain not only what everything is but how they're all cooked and what other ingredients they go well with when cooking. And if you've never been to a Thai market, you'll perhaps not understand how incredibly valuable this is.

Language barriers, odd-shaped vegetables and still-wriggling creatures are sometimes a challenging combination. She will even help you barter for your souvenirs or clothes making sure you return home with some good deals.

So a boutique resort; a friendly, caring chef; great food and trips to the market - there’s a lot on offer so get yourself down there and give it a try!

Colleen Setchell For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7742 0008. www.siamresidence.com

www.siamwininganddining.com

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Roald Dahl

Meat Loaf Mariah Carey Happy Birthday Andrew Lincoln

9 Sun 1 8 15 22 29

er 2013 Septemb Thu Mon 2 9 16 23 30

Tue 3 10 17 24

Wed 4 11 18 25

1stt - Lobster and Crab Feast, Devon, England. This festival pays tribute to Clovelly's famous lobsters and crabs with a day of live folk music, quay kitchens, prize cookery competition, beer tasting, prize draw, arts and crafts stalls and cookery demonstrations. Yum! 2nd - Who says baking isn’t dangerous? On this day, in 1666, the Great Fire of London started in Pudding Lane in the shop of the King Charles II’s baker, Thomas Farrinor, who forgot to put his oven fire out. I’m sure there are safer ways to make it into the history books. rd

3 - National Welsh Rarebit Day. Yes, this popular snack of toast and melted cheese has its very own national day. The origins of the name of this dish are unclear, but it is said that it probably comes from ‘rabbit’. But rest assured, no rabbits are harmed during the making of this snack. th

4 - Start of the ‘Food & Hotel Thailand’ show, a premier international food and hospitality trade show held in Bangkok. In its 20th edition this year, there are 271 participants from 27 different countries displaying their products, services and equipment. If you’re in the hospitality trade, this show is a must.

5th – On this day, in 1882, America’s first ‘Labor Day Parade’ is held in New York City. 10,000 workers marched in a parade from City Hall to Union Square. It is observed on the first Monday in September and celebrates the economic and social contributions of workers. Today it is celebrated with family and lots of food and drink.

Fri Sat 7 6 4 1 13 20 21 27 28

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6thh – In 1899, Carnation cond condensed densed milk is to the gratitude produced for the first time, time much m of many, many people all over the world.

Honestly, where would fudge be without condensed milk?

7th – The start of the ‘Scottish Food and Drink Fortnight’ which showcases the best that Scotland’s larder has to offer. Farmers’ markets, cooking demos, butchery classes and plenty food to buy, taste or learn about.

8th - Start date of ‘The Speciality Chocolate Fair’.

Not that you need an excuse to eat chocolate but having the Grand Hall, Olympia in London filled with luxury and gourmet chocolate, is definitely a must see (and eat). Sadly this fair is trade only.

9th - ‘Bonza Bottler Day’. This unusual holiday is celebrated once a month when the number of the month coincides with the number of the day (January 1st, February 2nd etc.). ‘Bonza!’ which means super, great, or fantastic. ‘Bottler’ is slang for ‘something excellent’. Created by Elaine Fremont in 1985 who decided to give herself a reason to have a party and some fun.

10th – Today, in 1990, the Hard Rock Cafe in Las Vegas opened.

11th - The start of the Paisley Beer Festival, and this year will be its 26th anniversary. It’s the biggest beer festival in Scotland, and once more brings together the widest range of ales and cider available in one location. th

12 - National Chocolate Milkshake Day. It was

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Culinary dates for the month of September.

1885 when the word ‘milkshake’ was first found in print. It started out as an alcoholic drink, a “…sturdy, healthful eggnog type of drink, with eggs, whiskey, etc.” but by 1900, the whiskey and eggs were gone and the term “milkshake” referred to the drink we know and love today.

13th – On this day, in 1916, Roald Dahl was born.

A popular British author, one of his most popular books was ‘Charlie and the Chocolate Factory’ (the film version was titled ‘Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory’). Some of his other books are titled ‘A Piece of Cake,’ ‘Royal Jelly,’ and ‘Lamb to the Slaughter’.

Clark Stenberger, slapped a piece of cheese on his burger and the rest was history. Lionel has a lot to answer for. th

19 - George Cadbury was born today, in 1839.

He took over his father's chocolate business and built it into a major chocolate manufacturer.

15th - The last day to experience New Zealand’s ‘Food Show’ in Christchurch, New Zealand. Taste and buy both local and international foods, wines, beers, coffees and much more.

16th - National Cinnamon Raisin Bread Day. The basic concept of raisin bread has been around since the 15th century. Served toasted or as a dessert, the bread is commonly found in the United States, Northern Europe, Germany and Australia. th

17 – 1997 ‘Honey’ by Mariah Carey is #1 on the charts.

18th - National Cheeseburger Day. Legend has it that in the mid 1920s, a gentleman named Lionel

27th - Musician Marvin Lee Aday, also known as ‘Meat Loaf’, was born in 1947.

28th - Last day of the ‘Coffee and Tea EXPO China’ in Hangzhou, Zhejiang.

20th - The trout season in Iceland ends. st

21 – The Royal Canberra Extra Virgin Olive Oil Show in Canberra, Australia. A celebration of all things olives from tree planting to oil production. nd

14th - The start date of the Niagara Wine Festival in Ontario, Canada. Taste wines from the actual vineyards, nibble on food from various food stands and enjoy live music and parades.

26th – On this day, in 1953, sugar rationing ended in Great Britain. Thank goodness!

22 - St. Maurice's Day, patron of knife grinders, soldiers, armies, weavers and dyers. This extremely busy saint was martyred in what is today Switzerland for refusing to massacre Christians for the Roman Empire.

23rd - Last day of the ‘Wine China Expo’ in Beijing, China. Lots of exhibitors, lots of wine, lots of tasting. Say no more.

24th – Today, in 1991, Dr. Seuss, of ‘The Cat in the Hat’ fame, died. He was a writer and cartoonist and a few of his books were ‘Green Eggs and Ham,’ ‘One Fish Two Fish Red Fish Blue Fish,’ ‘Scrambled Eggs Super!’ and ‘The Butter Battle Book’.

25th - First day of the 4th Annual Caribbean Fine Cocoa Conference & Chocolate Expo in Montego Bay, Jamaica. Taste the latest cocoa drinks and chocolate products made from local cocoa beans.

Anything with chocolate gets my vote.

29th – Today, in 1967 ‘I Heard it Through the Grapevine’ was released by Gladys Knight and the Pips.

30th – On this day, in 1861, William Wrigley, Jr. was born. He started out as a traveling salesman at the age of 13, selling soap but later started marketing his chewing gum, Juicy Fruit in 1893, and later that year Wrigley's Spearmint. He was an advertising genius, and his company became one of the largest advertisers in the U.S., and the largest chewing gum manufacturer in the world.

Colleen Setchell

Signature Dish Chaweng’s Drink Gallery is a very smooth experience – and not just with the drinks!

Chaweng is a busy bustling dash-and-grab of a place – well, the beach road is, anyway. I suppose it just has to be. This is where everyone vies for your attention, from those tooting taxis to the eager eateries and the multi masseuses. So it can be a relief to turn away from this towards more tranquil climes. Generally, as soon as you’re down a side path, the buzz and the glitter dies away. And the closer to the beach you go, the more placid it all becomes.

There are some bouncy beach bits. But usually you’ll pass through a series of pleasantly laid-back oases as you wander along the sand.

Some are more tranquil than others – you can sense it as you stroll slowly past. One or two will cause you to pause. But probably the most placid pool of all will flow gently around you when you land outside The Library. No – nothing much to do with books, other than a book is a symbol of leisure and time to spare.

But the wide-open spaces and bold clean lines will bring you to a halt.

The Library is one of Samui’s most adventurous resorts. It’s semi-minimalist. But whereas others, with a less intuitive sense of style and flair, have adopted a formula (scrubbed concrete, bleached wood, natural fabric, plants, lots of flashy PR), here they haven’t. It’s almost as if every single item and aspect has been considered from every angle, pondered over, and then given its own careful and specific whimsy. Their fine-dining restaurant, The Page, is a subtle essay in Bauhaus understatement (plus the food is fabulous). The library itself (yes, it actually does have one) is a futuristic cube of glass. The swimming pool is a startling red. And the latest addition to all of this is equally as full of flair.

But you can’t see it - not from inside. You have to go back and onto the beach road for this.

Because that’s where you’ll find ‘Drink Gallery’.

Most unusually this strip of land between the beach road and the sea has been in the same family for generations – normally the family cashes-in and sells when the prices starts to rocket. Back in the 1980s it used to be a small and isolated beach restaurant named simply ‘Thai Restaurant’. The Sornsong family then added a few huts for the new generation of hippies that were appearing. And almost 40 years later, their son, Khun Pang, having graduated from Bangkok’s Chulalongkorn University, decided to build a new vision of 21st century chic. The Library emerged in 2006, and then, only quite recently, another big cube of glass appeared, right on the front of the road, accompanied by 100 feet of raised decking. The sign outside, just a little way south of McDonald’s, declared ‘Drink Gallery’.

It shared the same design vision as the rest of the resort – dramatic and simple, but with a myriad of intriguing quirks once you slowed down enough to notice. Inside the glass cube, the tables and chairs are a fascinating mismatch.

The glasses behind the bar look like they belong in an alchemist’s laboratory with retort stands and mason jars full of cocktails. The cutlery stands vertically in little black rocks. The wall behind the bar is a 70-foot-high slab of concrete with the upper half being dominated by a Zen painting – this is so big that the only way you could get it in your house is by having the

building demolished and then rebuilt around it.

Here it looks quite modest.

Even the shelves above the bar that are filled with bottles are an engineering feat: look closely and you’ll notice they are made of two-inch thick timber that was bedded into the concrete wall when it was cast into place.

In Thailand – Bangkok in particular – there is a new fringe elite of young artists, pop stars, movie idols, musicians, architects and designers. We in the west don’t know about them. The Thai public does. And it’s no accident that you’ll find more than a few of them sunning themselves around the resort’s blazing red pool from time to time: several of them were actually instrumental in the construction of The Library and Drink Gallery.

The name ‘Drink’ Gallery is enigmatic, as it does food also. In fact, the food is exquisite. It comes from the direction of renowned chef, Khun Nhoi Ouypornchai. It’s been designed to be just as 5-star as The Page, but more ‘homely’ – although that’s a design concept in its own right. “This is a meet-n-greet’ sort of place,” explained Khun Noi (Khun Chutima Chitpitak), General Manager of the resort. “So we’ve created a menu that goes with this. It ranges from tapas to mains, from snacks to substantial, from West to East. But all of it is unique. This is gourmet casual dining. And one of our most popular items is the Australian Veal”.

Believe me – this is special. And it’s a big portion, too. Designer-chef Khun Nhoi commented confidentially that “. . . it’s a ‘meat ’n’ potato dish, LOL, but it’s so moist and succulent that it just doesn’t need vegetables too”. She’s right: Half way through I just couldn’t stop myself ploughing in for more – and not a legume in sight. The tender knot of veal came medium-rare, but you can ask for it anyway you want. The potatoes are described as ‘smashed’ but they are actually boiled ‘chippings’ which have been flash-fried – utterly gorgeous; super crisp outside and fluffy inside. The sauce is something you have to hold yourself back from licking off the plate at the end.

And there is a whole boatload of caramelised onions to complement this. These are an art in themselves. Too much wine – sour. Too much sugar – yucky. These were exemplary – this is how to do it. They made me want to order a big bagful to talk home and add to a garlic mayo-tomato sourdough sandwich with toasted pecan nuts.

Burger and fries you can get across the road.

Here, at the roadside outpost of The Library, at Drink Gallery, it’s sophisticated. And all that’s missing is the chef’s signature on each and every plate!

Rob De Wet For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7742 2299 www.thelibrary.co.th

Located in the beautiful Fisherman’s Village on Bophut Beach, our experienced chefs proudly present authentic Thai cuisine and Southern Thai dishes. Fresh seafood is a must with great quality at reasonable prices.

Enjoy the tranquility of the beach, the twinkling stars and the whispering waves along with the

(Fisherman’s Village) 16/16 Moo 1, Bophut, Koh Samui, Suratthani 84320 Tel: 077 430 030, 077 245 035 Free Parking!! Opposite the restaurant

www.siamwininganddining.com

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Monster Munch As a Westerner on holiday in Asia, feeding the kids can be tricky.

Some say that the best part of travelling and exploring new places is sampling the local cuisine. Often, it’s tastes and smells that trigger happy memories when you’re back home.

However, kids don’t always share their parents’ sense of adventure when it comes to trying new foods.

Experiencing new things keeps us young, apparently. Well children, being young already, don’t share this sentiment. In fact, anyone with young children will know how much they like familiarity. That’s why they’ll watch the same DVD 100 times and still laugh at the ‘funny bits’, even though they know what’s coming.

And that’s why they want the same thing for dinner every night. To us – boring. To them, familiarity means safe and comfortable. Only when we’re older do we enjoy venturing out of our comfort zones.

So what are you to do as a parent who’s keen to try the region’s delicacies but the little ones want their old favourites? Well, it can be done. But it takes a bit of preplanning and careful negotiating too. There’s a little give-and-take

involved, sometimes giving in and eating what they want in order to keep the peace. After all, it’s their holiday too!

other hand wants his beans on toast (replace with particular favourite item from home), and causes a scene when it’s not available.

Well let’s start with babies. They are the easiest really. The island has several large supermarkets, all of which stock a fair selection of Western products including big brands of baby milk formula, plenty of dairy alternatives for sensitive tykes such as rice and soya milks as well as jars of pureed fruit and vegetables. So it’s easy for them, just stock up at the supermarket with baby food, add a few bananas to your beach bag and you’re ready to go.

For children, most foods are an acquired taste and have to be tried several times before the taste buds decide that they like it. So don’t give up. Start with the more neutral Thai dishes such as fried rice or chicken satay as well as plenty of fresh fruit. And even if that’s all you manage, it’s a pretty balanced meal (protein – check, carbohydrates – check, fruit and veg – check).

From there, get a little more adventurous each time. Sure, they’re not likely to be eating green curry and three-chilli pad krapow moo by the time your holiday is over, but they’ll slowly start acquiring a taste for different flavours.

It’s from age two that things get tricky and only calm down again on the taste front from about eight years old. Set the scene: You’re on holiday in exotic Thailand, and keen to explore new surroundings with all your senses. You’re at a beach restaurant and the waiter brings the menu.

You ask the kids what they want… and that’s when it all goes pear-shaped. The adults in the party get excited to try unheard of dishes on the menu, even taking a chance and ordering items that they can’t pronounce. Little Jimmy on the

If that fails, with such a diverse expat community on the island, there are plenty of Western restaurants to choose from as well as fast food chains such as McDonalds and KFC. Most of the Western restaurants will also have at least some Thai food, so you’ll be able to compromise as they get to eat their favourites and you get to eat local. The resorts will usually

have both Thai and Western food options and often a dedicated kids’ menu too. Breakfast is seldom a problem, usually of a buffet variety and you can fill them up for the day on scrambled eggs, pastries and fresh fruit.

When in doubt, head for one of Samui’s many Italian restaurants, as you can’t beat pizza and pasta to keep most kids happy. And most restaurants will be able to at least serve plain chicken and rice as a last resort. Even some of the fine-dining establishments have good kiddies’ menus. Of course there are the sports bars serving regular burgers and fries and a choice of Irish pubs where you’re bound to find something for the kids to enjoy.

So don’t let whining kids put you off enjoying your holiday dining experience. Just come to terms with the fact that few kids enjoy adventurous eating, and you’ll need to compromise and slowly entice them into enjoying new food. The choices on Samui are endless and you’re bound to find places that cater to both you and the kids. Just wait a few years until you introduce them to pig intestine soup, crispy chicken feet or deep-fried crickets!

Rosanne Turner

Nothing gets the kids eating their dinner like the promise of dessert. If you choose to walk your dinner off while strolling the shopping strips or beach, why not try local street food stands selling sweet treats such as homemade coconut ice-cream (perfect for a hot day), and of course the pancakes are a winner with adults and kids alike. Fresh fruit shakes disguised as milkshakes are a great way to get the fruit intake for the day.

Next to Chaweng Regent Beach Resort, Chaweng Beach For reservations or more information please call 077 300 200 www.redsnappersamui.com

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If you’re on the beach, little ones will have great fun ordering from a ‘beach kitchen’. Try grilled corn on the cob or chicken satay with sticky rice, or fresh mango and pineapple.

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Cuppa, Anyone?

Herbal teas have been enjoyed for centuries, and are by no means a passing fad.

Some may pass herbal teas off as ‘alternative medicine’, but in fact, doctors often recommend them as part of maintaining a healthy lifestyle.

They can not only prevent certain ailments, but help to cure them too.

So what exactly is herbal tea? Well, it’s made from various plants, using not just the leaves, but also the flowers, roots, bark and seeds. Sometimes, a few of these are blended together to make an interesting flavour combination – there’s a herbal tea that’s just right for every mood as well as ailment.

Herbal teas naturally contain no caffeine at all, which accounts in part for their mellow, soothing character – and their growing popularity in today’s hectic, high-pressure world. We all know that we need to drink plenty of water in the tropical heat. But let’s face it, water can be, well… boring! Boiling up a pot of herbal tea to be drunk either hot or iced, is a delicious and easy way to increase your fluid intake and sneak in some extra nutrients too.

Drink peppermint tea to relieve the symptoms of abdominal gas and bloating, and to relieve

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muscle spasms. It’s also good for nausea (without vomiting) and for heating up the body and making it sweat – not that we need that here on Samui. If indigestion or heartburn are problems, then it’s best to avoid peppermint altogether.

Peppermint tea can be made using fresh herbs from the garden – and it's one of the easiest herbs to grow.

digestion after a meal, so having a pot at night is useful on both counts. Some homeopaths also recommend chamomile for coughs and bronchitis, when you have a cold or fever, or as a gargle for inflammation of the mouth. Chamomile tea is one of the most consumed teas in the world behind regular black tea. The flowers have a naturally sweet taste with a hint of an apple flavour.

Many people are familiar with ginger tea, and here in Thailand there are several varieties on the supermarket shelves, so it’s easy to incorporate it into your diet. Another great digestive aid, ginger can be used to curb nausea, vomiting or an upset stomach due to motion sickness – so if you’re prone to seasickness, brew up a pot before you head out on that boat trip. Make fresh ginger tea by simmering a piece of ginger root on the stove for 10 to 15 minutes. Add lemon juice and honey when you have a cold for a powerful germ-fighting combination. Ginger’s anti-inflammatory properties also help those with arthritis.

Rooibos tea (that translates to red bush tea in Afrikaans) is high in vitamin C as well as other minerals. Made from the South African red bush plant, rooibos has all sorts of health benefits, specifically its antioxidant properties, which help ward off disease and signs of aging. This easy-drinking tea contains calcium, iron and zinc and helps repair cells damaged by sun, so is good for reducing sunspots and wrinkles. It’s also good with common skin conditions such as eczema.

Does the sandman sometimes fail to visit? Well, for a gentle, calming sedative, enjoy a cup of chamomile tea for insomnia. It’s also helpful with

Known as the ‘wonder herb’ by tea drinkers and health gurus alike, green tea comes with a host of health benefits. This slightly bitter tea (well, it can get very bitter if left to brew too long) contains potent antioxidants called polyphenols, which help suppress free radicals. These are not an anti-government protest group, but rather the

things that can trigger cancer. Green tea is also effective in lowering cholesterol and triglyceride levels and thereby promoting a healthy heart. And the benefits don’t stop there. This bitter brew also lowers blood pressure, prevents and fights tooth decay and inhibits different viruses from causing illness.

Lemongrass plays an integral part in Thai cooking with its recognisable zingy flavour and aroma. But it’s good as a tea too. Lemongrass tea is often served as an after-dinner drink to aid digestion – primarily due to a substance called citral, which is also the active ingredient in lemon peel. Other benefits include its antioxidant, anti-fungal, and antimicrobial properties. It’s great for reducing blood pressure, improving circulation, reducing flatulence, improving skin, boosting the immune system, calming the nerves, detoxifying the organs, reducing cellulite, and helping to tone muscle and tissue. Though usually enjoyed unaccompanied by other herbs, it blends well to create lemon-flavoured teas.

Advertisers often oversell the alleged perks of these products, but scientific research does support the health benefits of several herbal teas.

Just Google your condition and you’re bound to find a herbal tea recommended to assist your recovery or ailment. Of course, they’re not intended as a substitute for traditional medical practices in the treatment of serious illnesses, so it’s always best to consult your doctor when ill.

However, there’s no doubt that most herbal teas are delicious, and when incorporated into a healthy meal plan, can play an integral part in general wellbeing.

Now be a dear, and put the kettle on…

Rosanne Turner

Stretching Out Relaxing at The Patio, one of Lamai’s most laid-back top-end restaurants.

Once upon a time . . . there were two hot-spots on the charming island of Samui. Both were relaxed and easy-going. And both were about the same size and style. There was Lamai which, although it was a big, sprawling area, had a lovely little centre, with a maze of side roads and bars and restaurants hidden around every corner. And there was Chaweng. This was a simpler layout, with one big, bold road running parallel to the beach, but with most of the night-life up around the Green Mango disco. In those days you could walk from the beach road right onto the sand, throughout most of its 3-kilometre southern stretch. In those days there was nothing to choose between these two areas.

But time marches on. It’s anybody’s guess as to the reason but, over the next decade, everything then seemed to focus on Chaweng. Maybe because the airport was closer. Perhaps because the long and lumpy dirt-track that was the beach road suddenly got covered with nice smooth concrete. Who knows? But the fact remains that, although both areas expanded and became more developed, this happened more intensively in Chaweng. Today, some would say that it’s all been just too intense.

Lamai has always seemed to have gone its own way and done things at its own pace. And, while there was a kind of frantic land-grab happening to its neighbour, Lamai quietly continued to expand, with a number of notable

high-end 4-and 5-star resorts taking advantage of the slower pace and lower prices it had to offer.

As it continued to sleepily move up-market, several of the existing bigger resorts re-modelled themselves to match. The original huts were replaced by modern bungalows and pool villas.

Some even cleared their grounds and rebuilt again from scratch. The result was that, over time, Chaweng ran out of spaces to develop but Lamai kept on getting better. Today, you’ll find that there are some of the best resorts on the island, in and around this area. And one of these, right in the centre of Lamai, is Pavilion Samui Boutique Resort.

First impressions, pulling up outside the bright modern frontage, are that this is a new resort.

This is compounded as you mount the steps towards the glass cube of reception – there’s a gigantic orchid feature covering the lofty scrubbed concrete entrance that makes you reach for your camera. Everything you see inside looks brand spanking new, brightly contemporary, and tastefully put together. And yet this is not a new resort by any means – it’s been one of Lamai’s landmarks for a very long time. But it’s a sign of the times, and very much a symbol of what’s been happening in Lamai in the last year or so.

This isn’t just a delightful resort – although you’ll find that there are 70 luxury rooms, suites and pool villas here, plus a boutique spa and two

quality restaurants. The ‘Pavilion’ name extends to the five exclusive self-contained Pavilion Samui Pool Residences next door, and is also associated with several other prestige developments in the immediate area.

The press blurb describes the styling here as ‘Contemporary Thai’. But I have to say that, apart from some of the ornamental carved wood and one or two of the more-noticeable roof styles; it’s far more ‘contemporary’ than it is ‘Thai’! Although, if you follow the path between the room block and past the lushly-gardened pool villas towards the beach, you’ll think differently when you see the restaurants. There are two here, conjoined, and dovetailed cleverly by a series of varying levels. Both are open-sided, both feature acres of rich wood, and both have impressively high ceilings covered with whirling, cooling, fans. But one is smaller and octagonal in shape, and the other is much bigger and rectangular. This is the resort’s signature restaurant, ‘The Patio’.

There are two categories of quality chef on Samui. The first is that group of international chefs who have worked at 5-star institutions around the globe. The second is smaller and possibly even more exclusive – that group of Thai chefs who have worked internationally and have become seasoned at producing authentic Euro-style dishes with flair. The executive chef here is Khun Wasan Sontidechkul. He’s been at

The Patio for the last nine years. And he’s spent more than 20 years specialising in Italian cuisine.

If it’s any guide to his pedigree, before coming to Lamai he spent most of his professional life working for the Amari Group as a chef-instructor, touring the group’s 5-star restaurants and teaching other executive chefs how to go about preparing and cooking Italian dishes. And here, at The Patio, he’s put together what amounts to a showcase for his art. The menu is sectioned into three parts. There’s a full section of Thai platters, not only including the usual offerings but also some of the more interesting ones, such as the several duck dishes. And then there’s a section of ‘mains’, where you’ll find fresh seafood and the imported New Zealand steak cuts.

But the star part of the menu, naturally, is the Italian section. There’s everything you’d expect.

There are 11 different sorts of fresh salads, six soups (including clam and mussel), 13 different sorts of pastas (including papardelle), 11 different sorts of spaghetti plus a risotto and lasagne section. Chef Wasan makes all his pasta fresh every morning. And his pizza dough, too, to a special and secret recipe! But save yourself for the desserts. There’s crème brûlée and tiramisu, plus the star of the show, the ‘hot chocolate soufflé’. And I’m told that Chef Wasan was one of the first in this region to offer this delicacy.

I could rave on at length about this menu – it’s one of the best à la carte examples around. But I also need to enthuse about The Patio’s theme nights. Most evenings see a different theme event held right on the sand, with alternative tables on the overlooking terrace. Monday’s are Thai Night with a two-hour dance show from 7:00 pm until 9:00 pm. Tuesday sees the mix ’n’ match Pizza Evening, with fusion Thai toppings!

And Wednesday features the Pasta Night, with 13 different pastas and a whole range of sauces and mixes. Saturday is BBQ Night and Sunday is Steak Night. All have live cooking stations where your selections are prepared on the spot. And every one is worth a dedicated afternoon out exploring Lamai, with dinner at The Patio as the highlight of the evening. It’s as relaxing as it gets – particularly when you find yourself stretching out on The Patio!

Rob De Wet For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7742 4420 or 0 7742 4030. www.pavilionsamui.com

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What’s New at Oliv Olivio restaurant at Baan Haad Ngam Resort, northern Chaweng is a long-standing Samui favourite.

What’s new at Olivio restaurant? Well, let’s start with what isn’t new. You’ll still get the same vibe of elegant yet relaxed beachside dining. You’ll still get super-friendly staff, including the resort’s flamboyant General Manager, Khun Kittirat and his cheerful assistant and Administrative Manager, the aptly named Khun Sunny. You’ll still enjoy great pizza and pasta as well as Thai dishes. And Olivio is still the only Italian restaurant right on Chaweng Beach.

The saying goes, ‘If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.’

Ignoring the shocking grammar of this statement, the sentiment is true. Now while Olivio isn’t making any drastic changes, management also realise that it’s good to tweak here and there, add specials and keep the locals and returning customers interested, providing the old favourites, but adding a few new dishes too.

So with this in mind, Olivio brings its latest special dish, ‘Branzino Alle Erbe in Crosta di Sale’. For those not familiar with Italian, this translates to ‘Traditional Italian Baked Sea Bass with Herbs in Sea Salt Crust’ and it’s served with blanched vegetables and lemon-butter sauce. It’s delicious and more-ish and looks impressive on the plate. And if you’re dining at the seaside, fish is the obvious choice.

Another chef’s recommendation if you’re in the mood for some Italian is the ‘Chef Antipasto for Two’, which comprises the following: foie gras with balsamic honey dressing and compote of fig, buffalo mozzarella cheese with tomato and fresh basil, melon with speck ham from Italy, smoked salmon with rocket salad, grilled marinated fresh tuna with Italian tomato as well as grilled fresh soft-shell crab in a crust of

Events @ the beach front Bistro Monday, Wednesday and Saturday: Live music.

Tuesday: Thai night with live Thai music and dancing Thursday: Lobster night Friday: Rustichella pasta night Saturday: All day tapas Sunday: International BBQ night with a live cabaret show.

Probably the most beautiful Restaurant on the island.

Dine outside in the lush gardens by the pool or inside the open air ‘dining room’. The exceptional Aziz and his team present a modern take on Classical French Cuisine.

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polenta with rocket salad. It makes a great variety of tastes for nibbling on and sharing while enjoying a good bottle of wine, with a great view of Chaweng Beach and the little island of Koh Matlang.

And if you have kids with you, they’ll love the pizza – which comes recommended as some of the best pizza the island has to offer. As much as we’d like to introduce our kids to new and exciting food options, let’s face it – not all kids are willing to try the exotic flavours of Thai cuisine. But pizza is always popular with kids.

Add to that a swimming pool right on the beach, and you have a lunchtime winner for families.

Guests (even non-hotel residents) are welcome to use the swimming pool if enjoying lunch at Olivio, so make the most of this beachside

dining venue and let lunch drift into evening cocktails, while the kids are entertained with the pool and beach.

Olivio offers frequent lunchtime specials, usually including handmade Italian pastas and Thai noodle dishes, so if you’re after a quick bite, choose from this menu. Aside from the Italian and European menu, there’s a vast authentic Thai food selection too – ideal if some in your party prefer to eat local. Italian desserts are some of the best around, and here, the tiramisu is renowned according to Khun Sunny. GM, Khun Kittirat declares that the apple tart with ice-cream is his favourite, and another popular choice is the chocolate molten cake. Also new to Olivio is a smoothie menu with popular flavours as well as a few more unusual combinations – a great way to enjoy the local tropical fruit.

Olivio frequently hosts themed evenings, parties and special events too, so look out for these.

And if you’re after a romantic evening venue, ask the staff to arrange a table on the beach for you to enjoy dining under the stars with the sea lapping at your feet.

Parking in Chaweng can sometimes prove difficult. Luckily, Olivio has its own parking area right next door – or if you’re staying nearby, simply walk along the beach and follow your nose to the delicious pizza aroma. Not to worry if you’re without transport, as the restaurant offers a complimentary transfer service in Chaweng, and also as far as Bophut and Choeng Mon. Just call ahead and book.

So with everything that Olivio has to offer including ideal beachfront location, friendly

vio? service, wholesome Italian and Thai food, it’s no wonder that the locals keep returning for their old favourites. But be sure to try the new dishes too… you never know, it may soon become your new ‘old’ favourite.

Rosanne Turner For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7723 1500. www.baanhaadngam.com

Pure Asian Experience

Monday Beach Barbeque Held in front of Chom Dao beach restaurant, the buffet comprises a wonderful selection of fresh seafood such as prawns, fish and squid, as well as grilled and roasted meat including New Zealand Lamb and Australian Beef, plus sushi, salads, main dishes and delicious desserts.

Only 1,100 THB per person.

Children under 12 half price. Children under 6 free.

178/2 Moo 1, Tambon Bophut, Koh Samui, Suratthani, Thailand, 84320 Tel: +66 (0) 7724 5795 www.bandarasamui.com E-mail: stay@bandarasamui.com Hotline reservation 089-653-6199, 084-357-9597

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Dragon’s Breath What’s the difference between reasons and excuses? At first sight they seem pretty much the same. You can use either one of them to answer a question – because, if you think about it, they’re both different sorts of answers. But it’s the sort of question that’s being asked that gives you the clue. “How old are you?” doesn’t call for an excuse (except, occasionally, with women over a certain age!). But, “Why didn’t you come home last night?” does. Yes, an excuse is a subtle softening of the truth, in order to gently explain a hard fact. And when questioned about your intake of alcohol, excuses are often what you find yourself giving. But what if the beverage is also medicinal?

The use of herbs as medicines and curatives goes back to time immemorial. Look at opium, for example. Five hundred years before Christ, Hippocrates acknowledged its usefulness in the ‘treating of internal diseases and the afflictions of women.’ And in 1860 laudanum was created. – opium combined with sherry and herbs, Even right up to the end of the 20th century you could still buy cough-mixtures with a liquid opium base from most pharmacies in Europe.

And what about the worm in the tequila bottle? In Japan, it’s considered that these bottle-trapped worms are an aphrodisiac – and over there they demand multiple worms in their tequila. Strange, but true. Not exactly medicinal, but stand up and be counted anyway. And, then there are the tonic wines. Very rejuvenating – as many a happy pensioner will confirm.

Yes, it seems that the human inclination to becoming a little more ‘enhanced’ has garnered more justifications than have American presidents. And over here, in Thailand, things aren’t so different. Consider yadong, for instance.

Yadong (or yaa dong, as it’s pronounced in Thai) is a traditional medicinal beverage. It originated in the villages of the north, but has long-since spread throughout the entire Kingdom. And it’s made from health-giving herbs. Actually it’s made from ‘rice wine’ (lao khao) with some herbs added to it. And sometimes Thai whiskey is used instead. But, traditionally, it’s rice wine – because it’s much cheaper that way.

Khun Santi Wattana, of the Queen Sirikit Botanical Gardens in Chiang Mai, has been making an in-depth study of the history and uses of yadong.

As a biologist, he’s keen to identify and examine the different beneficial herbs that are used. It’s a scholarly undertaking, yet he’s not without a sense of humour. He’ll tell you that many of the formulas for making yadong originate from the temples throughout Thailand. Monks traditionally pass on all sorts of knowledge to the local

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community. And they’ve also taken vows of poverty. So each morning you can see them out and about with their small bowls, asking for alms.

Usually the local people place food or money in the bowl, but there may also be a liquid donation – a welcome drink of some kind. However, there are rules. A monk may be given alcohol – but only to the depth of one finger-joint in his bowl. But herbal or medicinal drinks don’t count, and so he may then have his bowl filled right up.

Originally, yadong was made by collecting herbs and drying them.

They were then crushed, and the resulting powder was added to the alcohol base. (And it’s quite true that water has been tried, but alcohol is far more effective in dissolving the

essence of the additives.) But this method of preparing the brew has now faded out. Today, the entire undried stems, roots or leaves are wrapped in muslin and left to soak in the alcohol for up to 30 days. This has proven to be far more effective, and often the taste or smell of the herb over-rides the taste of the spirit used. And if you’ve ever tried lao khao, you’ll understand that this is not a bad thing at all!

Discovering an alcoholic treasure – yadong.

There are countless variations of yadong.

A local family might create new blends, only for these to disappear with time – and the recipes are often a closely-guarded secret. So the chances are that when you see yadong on sale, there’ll only be nine or ten varieties available. And they’ve got wonderful names!

How about a cupful of Dragon’s Breath? Or perhaps a noggin of Tiger’s Eye? Or maybe Shark’s Tooth is your preferred tipple? That’s the one that cures inner-ear disorders. (“Shorry, I’ll just have another one. I didn’t quite cash what you said. Hic.”) You’ll know yadong when you see it. It’s usually sold in large jars, each holding two litres, and each a different colour. You might see them on the counter of a small restaurant, or perhaps displayed in isolated glory on a roadside stall.

And it was one such as this that I came across.

Needless to say, it was my duty to check it out.

“Something to take care of a hangover? Certainly sir. How about the Dragon’s Breath? Just the job.”

The stall’s in a dimly-lit spot, on the pavement outside a closed shop. It’s just a table with ten or so bottles on it. There’s nowhere to sit, so I accept my small glass of neat medicine standing up. And it’s delicious! Smooth, warming and faintly vanilla-tasting. I feel obliged to try another (in the cause of research – that’s my excuse) and this one smells lemony, but tastes curiously of aniseed. It reminds me of some distant liqueur, imbibed in times long passed. Again, it’s as smooth as silk, and with no ‘bite’ at all.

You know, these yadongs could form the bases of some marvellous cocktails? I wonder why nobody does this? It reminds me of an old friend who used to swear by Tiger’s Eye mixed with fizzy strawberry. I know this idea could be improved upon. (And I wonder whatever happened to him?)

Yadong is one of Thailand’s lesser-known assets – and that’s a shame. Because it’s not only an excellent drink but, in some cases, it really does have medical benefits. In 1997, a Thai herb called planoi was discovered to contain ingredients that actually did alleviate stomach disorders. After much research, it was finally patented in Japan.

And, in recent years, many other Thai herbs have also been found to contain medically efficacious substances.

So you really must keep an eye out for yadong.

Or just ask a local – they’re sure to know a nearby retailer. It’s not only an excellent aperitif, but it’s good for you too. It’s not easy to come across – but that’s even more reason to try it. Or do I mean excuse to try it? Whatever the reason, it’s something special. And that’s my excuse!

Rob De Wet

The Patio Restaurant serves authentic Italian an and nd Tha nd Thai delicacies delicacies. Enjoy breakfast breakfast, lunch and dinnerr with spectacular s sea views and live entertainment entertainment.

Pavilion presents the best in Samui Boutique Resort dining. Experience a romantic meal at The Patio Restaurant with outstanding sea views.

The Look-Out Bar is the ideal place to unwind with a drink by our beach side pool.

Lamai Beach, Koh Samui Tel: 0 7742 4420, 0 7742 4030 Fax: 0 7742 4029 info@pavilionsamui.com www.pavilionsamui.com

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Just Vegging

Fancy some greens eens while on Samui? Well here’s where to find them.

A big juicy fillet steak. Does the sound of that make you drool and want to head to your our nearest grill-house? Well then, perhaps you’re better off flipping to the next story. If, however, the thought of consuming meat sends shivers down your spine – not the good kind – then read on. Or, perhaps, you do partake in meat eating, but fancy a bit of a detox from the fleshy food for health benefits. Perhaps you need to entertain guests and have a vegetarian in your party, then by all means, read on. As here we fill you in on the life of a vegetarian on Samui.

Well, it’s not as dramatic as that perhaps, but we do tell you where to go to get great veggie food options on the island.

Travelling vegetarians can sometimes find sourcing decent food a challenge and some countries are just not geared to feeding a meat-free diet. This is no problem in Thailand, as most Thai dishes can easily be made as a veggie-only option. With soya playing a big part in the Thai diet, vegetarians can get their protein intake too, without resorting to carrying around bags of dried lentils to cook in their rooms. The trick is knowing what to ask for in a restaurant.

‘Pak’ means vegetable in Thai, so remember that

one. ‘Mai sai’ means ‘not with’ so use this phrase and add the offending ingredient, be it pork (moo), chicken (gai), prawns (goong), or fish (pla). So for instance try Massaman curry ‘Mai sai gai’ should you want it without the chicken. This creamy potato, peanut and coconut milk based curry is delicious as a vegetarian version. ‘Gin jae’ means ‘eat vegetarian’, and most restaurants would understand what you mean. Remember too that many Thai dishes are cooked using fish sauce, shrimp paste and oyster sauce as flavourings. You need to ask them to leave this out, and flavour using soy sauce instead.

Although any restaurant can do meat free, there are a few that are geared specifically towards vegetarian and even vegan diets, and here we recommend a few.

Radiance Restaurant inside The Spa Resort, Lamai, is known for its vegetarian, vegan and raw food, and the vast menu serves several weight loss, detox and raw food options, as well as meat dishes for the carnivores who can’t do without it. Menu prices are extremely reasonable; here a spicy lentil soup will set you back only 70 baht. Raw food cooking classes are on offer too.

The restaurant and resort has a laid-back hippy

feel, with tables inside or outside overlooking the beach. A smoothie bar creates every combination of veggie or fruit drink, try the strawberry and beetroot shake. This is a great place to recover after a night out in Lamai.

Sweet Sisters Café, the new kid on the whole-food block, opened in July 2012, and serves delicious, healthy food from locally sourced produce. The menu is predominantly southern Thai but features fusion food too, with seafood, vegan, vegetarian, gluten-free, and dairy-free options available. The kitchen never uses MSG, white or polished rice, sugar, farmed fish or shrimp, nor will chef Noiy buy factory chickens – and only uses produce she can find from sustainable organic sources. This quaint little café is located on the corner of routes 4170 and 4173 in the south of the island, and well worth a visit if you’re on that side of the island.

Located shortly before Big C when travelling from Fisherman's Village, you’ll find June's Art Café – a favourite expat haunt. With well-priced healthy food, and generous portions, it’s easy to see why it’s so popular. A daytime venue only, at June’s there's a great

A Unique Koh Samui Experience at The Farmer Th Farmer Restaurant & Bar is the only restaurant on Samui offering a unique The na natural ambience, set amid paddy fields and green meadows. It is perfect for a re relaxed lunch, or dinner under the twinkling stars.

selection of sandwiches, including some with tofu, or veggie patties. But not everything is vegetarian, and you'll find specials on the board such as salmon spring rolls. Other favourites are burritos and wraps, whole-wheat pastas – try the prawn and pesto, and the fried rice dishes are a winner. Here they're done with brown rice, delicious and nutty.

Vegetarians, who usually only have a limited choice at restaurants, will think they’ve gone to heaven at Junes, as there's page upon page to choose from, with the average price being 80 to 100 baht. This is an MSG-free zone too.

An old backpacker favourite on Bophut beach is the restaurant at Free House Bungalows, which is busy and popular with locals too. They offer Western and Thai fare, with several pages on the menu dedicated to vegetarian options.

Particularly good is the ‘tom kha pak’, vegetable coconut soup, creamy, with strong flavours of lemongrass and coriander. Portions are huge and prices although not cheap, are fair. The shakes are super-sized with unusual combinations, try the chocolate and banana.

upmarket, will love Amala Restaurant at Prana Beach Villas in Bangrak. Anyone who thinks vegetarian food is boring should give Amala a try. This fully vegetarian restaurant adds an interesting twist to veggie dishes, and meat will not be missed at the table. Non-hotel residents are welcome to book for the restaurant, which is a modern raw-concrete and wood structure, right on the seafront. Many of the herbs and vegetables used are grown on site.

When it comes to street and beach food, vegetarian options, although fewer, are readily available. Try grilled corn on the cob or grilled sticky rice, without the fish sauce. Veggie spring rolls are easy to find, as are vendors selling freshly chopped fruit kept cool on ice. A portion will set you back only 15 Baht. For those with a sweet tooth, the banana pancakes are a winner; we said meat-free, not sugar and fat-free! Throw the diet out the window, and walk it off along the beach.

Rosanne Turner

Those looking for something a little more

k k Duc Duc .1 Tasty s ’ r e s No

Farm Samui’ ed Vot

Vis Visit The Farmer and experience the real meaning of “Back to Nature” whilst en enjoying the best of local Thai, Western and seafood dishes.

Farmer’s Duck

Exclusive Lunch Promotion at The Farmer

Pizza Margherita

Crispy fried duck served with herb sauce, rice, gourd soup, fresh tropical fruit, 1 bottle of water.

299 Baht

12:00-15:00 daily

1 scoop ice cream, 1 bottle of water.

250 Baht

The Farmer Restaurant & Bar 1/26 Moo 4, Maenam, Koh Samui Tel: 077 447 222, 077 247 979, 083 092 2632 www.thefarmerrestaurantsamui.com email: info@thefarmerrestaurantsamui.com Free transfer for dinner guests Nathon - Maenam - Bophut. Other areas 300 Baht return. Для гостей из районов Nathon - Maenam - Bophut - трансфер бесплатный. Гостям из других районов острова мы возвращаем 300 батт от стоимости такси.

16 www.siamwininganddining.com

TOP TEN 2011 www.tripadvisor.com

More Than Just a

Coffee Shop

The Coffee Club welcomes you at any time of the day.

You like Thailand. You love the people, the food and the culture. You’ve sampled the ‘cha yens’ (iced teas) and the fresh coconut milk sipped from a fruit picked moments earlier. But sometimes, just sometimes, you crave a good fry up or some pastries washed down with a hot cappuccino. At The Coffee Club on Chaweng Beach Road, you can easily satisfy those cravings.

In fact, you get a whole lot more because not only is The Coffee Club open from 8:00 am each morning (so you don’t have to wait long for your breakfast), it is also open until midnight. So not only is it a great place to start your day, it’s also a great place to finish it off.

When you arrive, you immediately notice the decking outside and the fact that even though it might not yet be 8:00 am, the tables and chairs outside are laid and the doors are open. The smartly dressed staff, in their pressed black shirts and trousers, welcome you in and are always friendly and smiling.

Dark brown wicker and wooden chairs with cushions provide comfortable seating where you

can relax and browse the varied menu and decide which dish is going to set you up for the day. The menu is mainly European-cafe inspired, but there are many Thai options available too. The Coffee Club has two floors, both with outside seating so you can watch the world pass by.

For breakfast, you can choose a traditional English breakfast fry up, or be adventurous and try the Turkish bread with avocado, ham and poached eggs. Maybe an omelette is what you need after those cocktails last night or perhaps sweet French toast will put you right? There are options to satisfy at least four nationalities that we spotted, so you’re sure to find something you like. Their signature dish is Eggs Benedict with options for shaved ham, smoked salmon or spinach and mushroom. Don’t know about you, but I wouldn’t mind starting my day with that.

If you’re not an early bird and only crawl out of bed at lunch time, there are a selection of sandwiches, wraps and open grills, and you’ll be pleasantly surprised to find some nice treats such as smoked salmon, avocado, ham, Dijon mustard and cream cheese. Maybe you’d prefer some

fresh salads or some good classics from home such as fish and chips, nachos or burgers. Or you can enjoy an afternoon snack with some of the delicious pastries and cakes on offer.

If dinner is more your thing, you still won’t be disappointed as there is a good balance between steaks, seafood, chicken, fresh salmon, and pasta to choose from. There is also a good selection of Thai dishes, complete with a ‘chilli-scale’ so you can choose a dish that has just the right amount of heat for you. And just in case you didn’t overindulge last night, there are some nice cocktails to choose from too, as well as a good wine list.

The Coffee Club is originally from Brisbane, Australia. The branches worldwide all offer free high speed Wi-Fi, long opening hours, all day breakfasts (which is perfect for party-central Chaweng) and are also open seven days a week.

Samui is their fifth outlet in Thailand and they’ve been open now almost three years.

The Coffee Club’s other Thai locations are in Phuket, Pattaya and Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi

Airport. Since the launch of the first Coffee Club in Thailand, they have added 80 members to their team and seen a revenue growth of 209 percent.

Clearly they’re doing something right. TripAdvisor confirms this with countless reports about how great the coffee is (with special mention about the flat white), how friendly the service is and what a great atmosphere there is (with lots of appreciative mentions about the free Wi-Fi).

They use beans from South America, Asia and Africa to create their signature blend which is used in their great selection of coffee drinks.

Their baristas have all been expertly trained, and together with the top of the range equipment they use, are all capable of producing a fine cup of coffee complete with some pretty cool ‘latte art’ which is so big in the coffee industry nowadays.

The atmosphere is laid back. From breakfast through to dinner, it’s warm and welcoming, the lighting soft. Large coffee and food picture canvases adorn the walls and the hanging spotlights give the whole area a modern yet comfortable ambiance. The colour scheme of

browns, beiges and creams is, well, interestingly ‘coffee-coloured’. It’s a great place to sit and chill with friends or even just to have a quiet moment with a hot steaming cappuccino (or iced coffee or tea).

Thailand’s coffee culture is on the increase, and Managing Director, Michael Chick says he hopes that The Coffee Club will educate local and international customers about what excellent coffee truly is.

And excellent coffee it is too. Try it; we’re sure you’ll agree.

Colleen Setchell For further information, telephone 0 7741 4616.

Facebook - The Coffee Club Thailand

Enjoy your lunch or spectacular sunset dinner at the open air Pavilion restaurant overlooking the sea and the intimate atmosphere of a small luxury villa resort.

Authentic Thai and international cuisine and wines.

Join us for a relaxed and unforgetable dining experience!

Open daily from 7.00 a.m. to 10.00 p.m. (ask for free pick-up service) Santi Beach – Lipanoi Tel: 077-420008 – Fax: 077-420009 e-mail: samui@siamresidence.com www.siamresidence.com

www.siamwininganddining.com 17

Going Native Joining the locals at Krok Mai.

Issan food originates from the north-eastern region of Thailand, where the harsh heat of one season is followed by floods in the next. It reflects the skill and ingenuity of its people who combine simple hard-won ingredients to create a vivid cuisine.

The insecure food supply, extreme weather and lack of grazing means the fare is often basic, with minimal cooking required because of the scarcity of trees providing fuel. A typical meal in Issan may be sticky rice enjoyed with a spicy sauce, and some grilled protein if you’re lucky enough to catch a fish, or snag a chicken. But what a resourceful celebration of the gifts of the earth it is - everything is valued and there are always greens and fresh herbs.

However, when you sit down at Krok Mai, a well-established local Issan eatery on Samui, you’ll not lack for anything. You’ll immediately be presented with a plate of cucumber, basil, cabbage and green beans, sometimes even before you see the extensive and bountiful menu. The service in Issan food venues is typically fast, attentive and sneaky. If you are drinking, you’ll be amazed at how your glass never empties - the moment you put it down somehow it will miraculously fill up again!

Krok Mai is on the main ring-road in Chaweng, near the Bangkok Samui Hospital. If you drive north passing the hospital entrance on your left for about 80 metres, it’s the first establishment you’ll come upon on the opposite side of the road.

It’s a simple setup - the first sign that you are in the right place is the grill out in front of the kitchen with salted fish, chicken and pork smoking away. Seating is in one of nine separate bamboo shelters each capable of holding about six diners or under a roofed area with about ten tables of various sizes.

On the menu here is of course somtam, the famous signature dish of the northeast. In fact it’s hard to miss in Thailand: anywhere you go you will hear the famous ‘pok pok pok’ of a mortar and pestle advertising its availability.

Each plate of somtam is made fresh according to the client’s particular preferences. Typically chillies and garlic are crushed in a mortar, and the heavier the pounding, the spicier the result. Then dried shrimps are worked in lightly along with freshly roasted unsalted peanuts and hand-squeezed lime.

The lime skin is pounded in for good measure to add a pleasant bitterness and aromatic complexity.

Add some fish sauce, dissolve the palm sugar, and roughly chop in some cherry tomatoes along with sliced green beans. Then work in the principal ingredient of julienned green papaya.

At any street stand there are often lines of people placing their endless complicated orders: “more palm sugar”, “less chilli”, “with shrimp”, or “don’t add fermented crabs”...

the classic green papaya in somtam and Krok Mai offers a variety of choices; with green beans, carrot, green mango, salted egg, cucumber or white noodles. These can be ordered in combination with dishes such as grilled pork, spicy crispy catfish, blue crab or spicy bamboo shoots.

Krok Mai is an all-day eatery open from noon to 11 pm and is infinitely versatile. Stopping by alone for a quick light cheap convenient lunch? Nothing beats somtam, some grilled chicken and sticky rice.

Going out with a crowd of friends? Grab a big table, order some large beers and get cracking.

We plunge right in and choose a ‘mieng pla yang’ roasted tilapia fish. The salted grilled fish has a pleasant if slightly muddy taste, and the whole thing is served up on a platter with thin white noodles (kanom chin) lemongrass, piper betel leaves, Chinese lettuce, seafood sauce, tamarind sauce, ginger, nuts and onions. Each diner assembles his or her preferential ingredients, piles it on the greens and pops it in the mouth. We also order the distinctive ‘soup nomai’ bamboo shoots boiled in a broth with mint, onion and coriander.

No Issan meal is complete without larb - usually finely chopped protein of some variety served with fresh herbs and topped with roasted rice. We go for ‘larb pla duk’ a grilled catfish version served with galangal, spring onion, coriander and mint.

And for good measure we add a ‘larb phet’ with chunky bits of roasted duck and pickled garlic. We throw in a vegetable ‘gaeng om’ - this thick delicious dill flavoured soup has pumpkin, angel hair mushrooms and eggplant.

We have to control ourselves not to order more the menu offers a huge selection of Thai style salads, loads of roasted meats and fish, curries, deep fried dishes including the famous Issan pork sausages, stir fries, and classic Thai soups like tom yam or turmeric chicken. There’s also an exotic array of more unusual dishes: spicy cow’s blood with Thai herbs, fermented fish or jungle curries.

Let’s just say we didn’t feel the need to try everything.

But there’s no need to worry about not being satisfied as no Issan meal would be complete without sticky rice. This glutinous rice has to be soaked and steamed in a basket and stored correctly to keep it from hardening. Served in a plastic bag within a ‘kratip’ (a woven basket) for maximum cleanliness and moistness, the rice is typically balled up in your right hand and dipped in the sauces. You will find it sticky but dry. You may use a fork if you prefer, but for me, there’s no more basic way of touching the earth and connecting with its bounty than to eat with my hands.

Annie Lee

There’s apparently also no end to what can replace

Weddings, Celebrations, Parties & Honeymoons River Prawn Tom Yum

Rock Lobster

Sunset Dining in Spectacular Surrounds Enjoy breathtaking sunsets while discovering our culinary delights at The Terrace, one of Koh Samui’s best beachfront dining destinations.

A holiday or a visit to The Passage would not be complete without sampling the food at The Terrace. Nestled on the beach, this majestic open-air restaurant affords diners a perfect view of the spectacular sunset over Laem Yai Bay and the distant islands.

Sea Food Taco

Lamb Chop

Beef Lasagna

Phuket Lobster Thermidor

Carbonara Pizza

This epicurean dining nirvana serves up the finest catches from the sea so our guests can feast like kings. Pay homage to our specialty – the royal triumvirate of lobster, tiger prawn and oysters.

Engage your senses as Executive Chef Moo takes you on a culinary journey, and discover the flavours that resonate in Thai-European fusion cuisine.

The Passage is not just a resort. It’s also a great location for weddings and honeymoons. The resort offers specially designed packages to suit your personal style and budget.

So come and experience the wedding of a lifetime at The Passage Koh Samui.

The Passage Samui Villas & Resort Laem Yai Beach Reservations 077 421 721 www.thepassagesamui.com www.siamwininganddining.com

18

Hansar’s Growing

A lot of the new growth at the 5-star Hansar is in their organic garden!

Over the last few years, a completely new breed of quality hotel has evolved. For a long time the phrase ‘5-star’ summoned up glittering images of marble floors, oak panelling, and gold trimmings on the doorman and the bathroom fittings. But recently something gentler and less flashy has slid into place. There’s the same quality of service throughout. The restaurants will be fit for visiting royals. The spa will be super and the facilities fab.

But the décor and style will have ceased to shout.

You’ll see natural timber and fabrics, and subtle modern art. Everything will be elegant and relaxed – as indeed is fitting for a top resort on a tropical island. And one, just such as this, is Hansar Samui.

Hansar has been around for about four years now. And there’s a very good chance that, whether you’ll know it or not, you’ll find yourself at some point just a minute’s walk away. That’s because it’s situated in the hugely popular Fisherman’s Village in Bophut. It’s not right in the middle, though, rather it’s at the very-furthest bit of the seafront street. It’s an unpretentious building from the road; a squarish block with two wings framing the lawn and pool that’s towards the front, with the elevated open-sided restaurant, H Bistro, to the right. There are a total of 74 deluxe rooms, ranging from ‘Sea View’ to ‘Beach Front’, and all of them lavishly appointed and

furnished. Plus there’s an exclusive spa suite, a gym and fitness centre, a business centre, and a well-equipped banqueting and conference room.

There are two super restaurants here, H-Bistro is down at beach-level and the laid-back Chill Lounge with its comfortable day-beds and sweeping seascape is on the floor directly above.

The Executive Chef here is Stephen Dion and his résumé is nothing short of dramatic, having managed such world-class restaurants such as the 5-star Lebua at Bangkok’s exclusive State Tower hotel, and also having served as the personal chef for the King of Jordan for a year or so. But, despite the fact that he’s producing some of the finest 5-star fare on the island, you might be surprised to discover that the cost of a meal here is very little more than many of the eateries in Fisherman’s Village.

Then, towards the rear of the main block you’ll discover Luxsa, the resort’s superb spa. This is an essay in tranquillity in its own right. There’s a high-roofed atrium as you enter. And there are six sumptuous treatment suites, plus another separate area for manicures and pedicures. Khun Kantima Chompoolad – nicknamed Khun Jeurn – is the manager here and has been with the resort since it first opened. The approach is holistic, and everyone receives a detailed analysis, with

medical and physical conditions being assessed and integrated with personality typing, to determine the specific oils and aromas to be combined together for each treatment. If it’s just a bit of a back rub you want, you can get it on the beach – your treatment here will be light years beyond that!

The reason that I’ve gone into some detail about the spa and the restaurant is that they are both benefiting from a fairly recent development – well, if something that started up just over a year ago can be called ‘recent’. There are quite a lot of plants and bushes at Hansar, and the gardening department at one time used to propagate these in a strip of land at the back of the resort. It’s actually a big plot, paralleling the entire breadth of the resort, but only one tiny corner was being deployed. This is where the resort’s General Manager, the very down-to-earth and approachable Indra Budiman, comes into the picture. He’s the kind of boss whom you’ll see helping-out in the kitchen when it’s busy, or grappling with a faulty air-con unit. Or, and more to the point here, pottering about in the plot at the back, helping the gardeners.

“He’s a very hands-on person, and constantly full of new ideas,” Hansar’s Director of Operations, Urip Wiedodo, told me. “He was the one to

introduce our corporate social responsibility (CSR) schemes. We’re a part of the local community – not apart from it. We’ve now been able to help and donate to local schools, particularly those catering for handicapped children, as well as helping the local temples to take care of the needy.” And a lot of this sponsorship has been coming from that strip of land at the rear, which is well into the process of being converted into a thriving kitchen and vegetable garden, farmed entirely on organic principles.

It’s actually a huge chunk of land, about one third of which is currently productive, with the rest in the pipeline. There’s holy basil, sweet basil, and the hard-to-find lemon basil being grown. Along with lemon grass, kale, lettuce, morning glory, galangal, aloe vera, and the prized butterfly pea.

The flowers from this are expensive to buy and are extensively used in spa products, both in beverages and treatments. There are also two big fish tanks that supply the resort’s staff canteen.

And, throughout, there is a replenishment cycle which feeds the natural wastes back into the soil.

“There’s nothing chemical used anywhere here,” continued Urip, “we even recycle our kitchen waste.”

me to tell you that not only has the resort donated several thousand US dollars to the local community via these schemes, but it’s also generating departmental team spirit via the garden, too. Each of the resort’s eight departments have their own strip of soil with the project being to competitively chip-in and produce the biggest and most lush crop of morning glory. And that means seeing the management, including Indra and Urip, out there with their hoes and hoses, bantering cheerfully, elbow-to-elbow with the other employees. It’s a great team, and it’s just another of the reasons that Hansar keeps on ‘growing’ – in more ways than one!

Rob De Wet For reservations or further information, telephone 0 7724 5511. www.hansarsamui.com

One of the problems with Hansar is that everyone’s just so modest! So that leaves it up to

www.siamwininganddining.com

19

Authentic

Thai Food How different is Thai cuisine when eaten abroad.

Food is food, right? Surely a curry tastes the same anywhere in the world? I mean, they’re following the same recipe, aren’t they? Well, maybe not.

Perhaps some of the ingredients are hard to come by. Perhaps people don’t like the taste of a certain ingredient and the recipe is tweaked to suit the local population rather than honouring the traditional recipe. So what is Thai food like abroad compared to what it is like here in Thailand? Let’s find out.

Thai cuisine is now very popular throughout the world but that’s only happened fairly recently.

Only after the growth in tourism in the seventies, did the cuisine leave the shores of Thailand and start spreading its tasty, spicy influence, and you can now find Thai restaurants in most cities around the world.

One thing that does seem to be common in Thai restaurants outside of Thailand is the decor. Most big Thai restaurants in both the UK and US will have some sort of wooden interior with elaborately carved tables, huge chairs and ornate wall hangings. Huge elephant and Buddha statues will be placed either at the entrance or inside the restaurant in an attempt to create that authentic Thai feel.

But what about the food itself? Let’s start with the ingredients that ‘make’ Thai cuisine, the ingredients that give that authentic Thai flavour.

Chilli and garlic of course, go without saying but palm oil, coconut milk, kaffir lime leaves, galangal, lemongrass, Thai basil, ginger, peppercorns and coriander are all essential in the Thai kitchen. And then don’t forget shrimp paste, oyster sauce, soy sauce, curry paste and soybean paste. Vegetables such as cabbage, bean sprouts, stink beans, soybeans, Chinese broccoli, mustard greens and pak choi are all popular and fruits such as green mango, green papaya, bananas, Thai chestnut, lotus seed and coconut feature in both main courses and desserts.

Galangal, a root from the ginger family, for instance is hard to come by in England. It is sometimes stocked in the larger supermarkets but its availability is not always guaranteed.

Some Thai restaurants have to rely on ordering it from Thai food suppliers or sometimes even health shops.

You might not find Chinese broccoli in shops in England but if you looked for it by its alternative names of Chinese kale or flowering kale, you might be more successful.

Green mangoes and green papayas are hard to come by in South Africa purely because they’re seen as ‘not yet ripe’ and therefore not fit to be sold. Even the ones that are a little bit green are still bright orange inside and not the pale yellow as seen in Thailand. Online shops promise shipment of green papayas in the UK and you can even buy them in the US from Amazon! (And you thought they only sold books …)

you could eat in Thailand for that much money!

But what about Thai restaurants abroad and the food they serve? How different is the actual food there? One of the main differences between food in Thailand and Thai food abroad is the portion size. Anyone who comes to Thailand will see instantly that obesity is not a problem here. The Thai people eat little and often, and when ordering food here, you’ll never get asked if you want to ‘go large for an extra 50 baht’.

Things like flavour can be debated until the cows come home, but abroad, Thai food will always be blander (or certainly less spicy) than in Thailand.

Many a Westerner has been caught out coming to Thailand and ordering Thai food, thinking it will taste the same as back home and discovering that it blows their socks off. Some Thai restaurants have clicked on to this and will prepare dishes differently for Westerners. If you want it ‘blow your socks off spicy’, then ask for it to be prepared the same as the locals eat it or ask for ‘pet maak’ (very spicy).

The second difference is most definitely the price of the dishes. Fair enough, the cost of living is cheaper in Thailand but where a dish with perhaps a fried egg on top costs around 60 baht here, you’ll easily pay eight to ten times that amount in other parts of the world. At one of the top Thai restaurants in London, the set meal for two will set you back 2655 baht per person. I don’t even want to think about how much food

In Thailand, most dishes prepared with meat will have a few pieces as part of the dish but it certainly won’t count as the main ingredient.

Abroad, the Westerner’s obsession with meat means that most dishes are bulked out with huge quantities of meat, changing the whole balance of the dish.

steamed rice. Somtam is eaten with sticky rice as is fried chicken. It would be like eating your carbonara on rice instead of spaghetti - it’s just not done.

The popularity of some dishes changes in different countries. Dishes like green -, red - and yellow curry, tom yum (clear and spicy soup) and pad Thai (stir fried noodles) are pretty much available all around the world but the more spicy dishes such as somtam (green papaya salad), khao phat nam phrik narok (rice fried from chilli paste) or gaeng som (a hot and sour Thai curry soup) you might only be lucky enough to find in Thailand itself or specialist restaurants.

So really Thai food has become a firm favourite in most places in the world nowadays, but if you really want tasty, spicy, authentic Thai food, there’s no getting away from it - you’re going to have to come to Thailand.

Colleen Setchell

Sticky rice is associated with Thailand, and often people will think they can substitute normal rice for sticky rice and it will be more Thai somehow.

I have seen red curry advertised with sticky rice on a menu in South Africa, which would never be seen in Thailand. Curries are all eaten with

Authentic Thai Cuisine California Cuisine Succulent BBQ Seafood 20 www.siamwininganddining.com

The Passage to The Terrace

One of Samui’s most chic resorts offers value for money dining that’s hard to beat.

I think it’s pretty much general knowledge that Samui now has an assortment of 5-star hotels.

Anyone who’s been coming here regularly for more than just a few years will have run out of fingers to count them on. These are the big boys.

The international chains. The household names.

The blue-chip stock of the hospitality industry.

But what many people aren’t aware of (although it seems to make perfect sense) is that there’s also an expanding strata of top-notch boutique resorts.

Resorts that offer a superb level of luxury and service, and have tip-top facilities. But they’re usually smaller, they’re privately owned and tend to be either one-of-a-kind, or part of a small and exclusive private chain, which doesn’t number into the dozens or span the globe. There are quite a few of these gems to be found now, tucked away around the island, and one of them is The Passage.

The Passage Samui Villas & Resort, to give it its full title, came on the scene just over four years ago. It’s located in one of the more select parts of Samui, accessible from the ring-road, yet totally secluded on its own little bit of headland, and with a pure white picture-postcard beach – utterly private and deserted – that borders the property and curves around the small bay. The easiest way to describe how to find it is to point out the landmark of the big steep hill just outside Nathon (on the Maenam/Chaweng side). Heading away from the direction of Chaweng go up and over and down towards Nathon. And just as the hill levels out you’ll see the clear signposts on either side of the road, pointing to a small track.

I’ve gone into some detail about where it is, simply because this is one of those ‘hidden gems’ that all we foodies here at Samui Wining & Dining agree is on the list of fab places to eat. And that doesn’t just mean gourmet cuisine that’s fit for kings, it also means exceptional value for money, too. Add to that the magnificent sunsets and the strategically timed 2-for-1 happy hour, and it’s a done diary date. However, you won’t need to fumble about on unfamiliar roads to get there – they kindly offer a shuttle service from Chaweng – more details of this later.

The tone is set as soon as you arrive at reception.

Design-wise, everything’s low, clean, modern looking but with Asian motifs, simple, tasteful and elegant. You’ll find that this theme is consistent throughout and, now I come to think of it, might well apply to the cuisine here, too. (Although the colour scheme certainly won’t stretch that far – not unless you’re planning to eat biscuits and ice-cream with a side order of teak, that is!)

There’s nothing built here that’s in conflict with the natural elements around – there’s space and greenery, order and calmness everywhere you look. And, somehow, this aesthetic has crossed the boundaries into the atmosphere here: it’s a place that, as soon as you walk inside, just oozes a sense of tranquillity and peace.

With the spaciousness of the layout, the broad wooden decking and neat green lawns, the realisation that there are 50 pool villas and rooms comes as a surprise. It somehow seems less. But following the wide central avenue towards the sea soon reveals the point of our story, the resort’s equally open and laid-back restaurant, The Terrace. The broad decking continues onto the terrace itself that borders the dining area and fringes the beach – there’s room overall for 80 people here (but this sort of number you’ll only see at weddings, for which The Passage has something of an enviable reputation). It’s only a step or two down onto the sand, and that’s also where you’ll often tables spread for a barbecue or a special theme night.

Slavo Hus is the resort’s engaging Food & Beverage Manager, and he’s evolved some very direct thinking on the essential nature of good wining and dining. “It goes without saying that the quality of all the ingredients must be the best,” he told me, “but there’s more to it than just this.

We need diners. We need to balance the cost of super food so that people want to come back.

Unless the menu is great but also affordable, then everybody is going to miss out – particularly our potential diners!”

Samui to take a post at Prana Beach Villas, possibly Samui’s most adventurous vegetarian restaurant. His menu is an intriguing blend of International and Thai dishes, but with just the right amount of ‘fusion’ to make the dishes tantalising rather than pretentious.

There are the expected sections of starters, soups and pastas, followed by a prime seafood-dish selection and a range of all-imported Australian beef, lamb and pork choices. And if I make the point of telling you that the most expensive item on the menu (other than the huge seafood platter for two) – the Australian sirloin or tenderloin – is less than 600 baht, then you’ll understand what Slavo meant about customers coming back. And all the prices already include tax.

“The most delightful time of day here is coming up to sunset,” Slavo continued. “We have a shuttle-bus pick-up from McDonald’s in Chaweng at 4:00 pm and, after an hour on the beach, the happy hour kicks in. The à la carte menu is always available, but several nights a week, depending on the season, we run a beach barbecue with a fire show, and also a Thai Night with classical dancing. Plus our range of wines is something special too, and I select every label myself. And there’s a special every month with wine at well under 1,000 baht a bottle and with a discount on a second bottle. To find out what’s going on, check our Facebook page. It’s constantly updated. Or you could call us on the number below,” he added with a grin, “to make sure you book The Terrace at The Passage!”

Rob De Wet For reservations or further information, telephone 07742 1721. www.thepassagesamui.com

The man in charge of putting it all on your plate is the affable and experienced Khun Moo. He has already notched up both experience and status by having served time in international restaurants in Saigon and Singapore, as well as Bangkok at the prestigious Central Plaza Hotel, before coming to

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Cheese and Wine A gastronomic celebration on the palate!

Maybe it’s a cliché, but there’s no denying that cheese and wine are a great match. In fact, they have a lot in common. Both are steeped in history, ritual and tradition. And they both require long complicated production procedures and aging processes, followed by highly regulated storage. Just as wine can be red, white or in-between, cheese can be hard, soft, or melted. And just as a wine can be oaked, a cheese can be smoked. Indeed, the very diverse nature of cheese makes it a perfect partner to the myriad different styles of wine.

While some pairings may work better than others, each is at least unique. As you try several different cheese and wine combinations you may find that it’s not only the marriage of flavours and balance of aromas, but also the intoxicating sensory experience that counts.

Ingesting room-temperature refined cheese on soft French bread, or dry crackers, with green salad leaves, olives and sundried tomatoes, is refreshingly uncomplicated, allowing your palate to focus on the wine’s key role in the unfolding taste adventure.

Whenever buying cheese, I always consider what wine I’m pairing it with. Unfortunately for

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those of us living here on Samui, they are both very expensive items when you require quality.

So, unless money is no object, both cheese and wine together is an occasional treat. But if nothing else, this does concentrate the mind, and careful consideration is needed in both wine and cheese choices. Here are a few basic guidelines I use when planning my all-too-rare cheese/wine pairings.

Let’s start with red wine. As with all cheese/red wine choices, make sure to choose a wine that’s full of ripe fruit flavours, and not too much tannin. (Tannins can be made more astringent by the salt in cheeses.) Another component in cheeses, that can boost tannins, is acidity. For example, the high acidity of goat’s milk cheese clashes with red wine (you are far better off with a sweeter white wine). You also have to be careful with soft creamy cheeses that coat the inside of your mouth - they can make a red wine taste thin. In my experience, the best cheeses to match with a fruity red wine, like Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, will always be the firm mellow ones, especially if they are aged or semi-aged, as this softens the acidity. The idea is that the earthiness in the cheese will bring out earthy flavours in the wine. And the

fattiness in a cheese (as long as it’s not too gooey) will complement the ripe fruit characteristics found in a dynamic red wine.

One of my favourite red wine pairing cheeses (if you are lucky enough to find it) is aged sheep’s milk cheese. It has a higher fat content compared to cow’s milk cheeses, and a gorgeous pillowy texture, even though it is a firm cheese. It’s perfect with a wine with intensive fruit flavours and soft tannins, such as a Californian Cabernet Sauvignon from Napa Valley. Other quintessential red wines for cheese are Rioja, Red Zinfandel, earthy Bordeaux-style Cabernet blends, and of course, Italian brutes like Chianti and Montepulciano. (Parmesan cheese has been made in the same way for over 400 years, almost as long as the wines from Montepluciano and Chianti.)

If you are looking at white wine pairing, then the softer cheeses work better, particularly the French classics like Camembert, Brie and Boursin. And fresh and creamy cheeses need the crisp acidity of white wines to bring out their full range of flavours. Seek white wines with a little body and sweetness, as dryer and lighter wines will be overwhelmed. Rather like

the Italian example of Parmesan and Chianti, it’s amazing how often matching regions works well with cheese and wine pairings. Chablis and Sauternes are sure-fire winners when it comes to French soft cheeses. The currently-out-of-favour, but nevertheless wonderfully food-friendly, Californian oaked Chardonnays are also great with soft cheeses.

Roquefort, a soft blue sheep’s milk cheese, is an interesting example, as it can marry well with many different style wines, from sweeter whites, to crisp rosés and even, somewhat surprisingly, big brawny reds. Another intriguing combination is a triple-cream cow’s milk cheese, with an equally a tasty partner, Provençal Rosé. The fresh strawberries and dry finish integrate nicely with the lush texture of the cheese. Gorgonzola from northern Italy matches well with the neighbouring Tuscan wine, both reds and whites, especially Soave from Verona. And at great risk of sounding a little passé, one of the most classic of pairings is that of English Stilton and Port wine, both vintage and tawny.

These are just a few examples of the hundreds of fine pairings between wine and cheese. But don’t be afraid to experiment. There are plenty

of exotic and interesting cheeses out there just waiting for a glass of wine and a palate to play with. Cheeses such as Cabecou Feuille, a mysterious French goat’s milk cheese that is soaked in plum brandy, sprinkled with black pepper and then wrapped in chestnut leaves. Or the equally exotic Azeitao, a Portuguese variety that is made in clay pots next to an open fire and mixed with wild purple thistle flowers.

As the global community becomes more familiar with one another, regional specialties such as these will become more readily available. And today, wine distribution and consumption is already truly global. For people living in places like Australia and the Mediterranean regions, their choices are almost unlimited, and better still, reasonably priced. But for those of us here on Samui, we will continue to relish every bite of cherished cheese, and savour every sip of fine wine, as if it were our last!

Peter James

Serving an exciting variety of Thai, Italian and seafood from our open, show kitchen with genuine pizza oven.

Choose from open air seating on the first floor with ocean view or air-conditioned seating on the ground floor.

Live music every night.

Open daily from 5pm till 11pm

Located on Lamai Beach Road opposite Pavilion Samui Boutique Resort www.siamwininganddining.com 23

Fine Beach & Hillside Dining at Samui's Newest Venue Quality Thai, Seafood & International Dishes The Ultimate Samui Dining Experience!

Monday - Cowboy Steak Night Assorted BBQ Meat Buffet Entertainment: Cabaret Show and The Barge Band Tuesday, Friday and Saturday Lobster Basket Set: 3,300 for 2 persons Seafood Basket Set: 2,300 for 2 persons Inclusive of Salad, Soup and Side dishes Entertainment: Duo Band Wednesday - Hawaiian Seafood Night Variety of Fresh Seafood & BBQ Meat Buffet Entertainment: Polynesian Dance and The Barge Band

No visit to Samui is complete until you have dined at The Barge

Thursday - Local Thai Night Variety Thai Food Buffet, Demonstration & Barbecue Complimentary Management Cocktail Party 6-7pm Entertainment: Thai Classical Dance or Pong-lang Dance Sunday Chef Creation Set Dinner and A La Carte Menu

Rice Barge Authentic Thai Cuisine The Barge Nora Buri's Signature Restaurant Chaweng North For Reservation Tel: 0 7791 3555 E-mail: thebarge@noraburiresort.com www.noraburiresort.com

Chaweng Beach Road Chaweng North Tel: 0 7742 9400 Fax: 0 7742 9498 E-mail: reservation@norabeachresort.com www.norabeachresort.com

It’s all happening at Nora Beach Resort & Spa Tuesday Night - Local Samui Buffet Fresh BBQ seafood plus a variety of Samui style dishes.

Entertainment - Thai Classical Dance & Mariposa Duo Thursday Night - Southeast Asian Buffet A variety of food stalls from Southeast Asia plus buffet of BBQ meat.

Entertainment - Fire Dance Show & Mariposa Duo Saturday Night - Cabaret Night Enjoy with our Chef Special buffet, with a variety of East meets West creations.

Entertainment - Cabaret Show & The Barge Trio Daily Cooking Class & Fruit Carving Class Learn to cook 3 Thai dishes Fruit Carving Course Inclusive of chef hat, apron and certificate Advance reservation required Daily Happy Hour Beverage Special Offer 50% off (Except wine & liquor by the bottle) At Pool Bar 1-2 pm., Lobby Lounge 6-7 pm. & 9-11 pm.

Private Romantic Dinner Only you and your loved one dining on the beach with private chef and waiter/waitress Available daily. Advance reservation required For further information please telephone 0 7742 9400

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