Samuel Dwyer - Levi's Spring Summer 2023 Portfolio

Product

Leader:

MSc Strategic

Table

List

List of Figures

Fig 35: Levi’s In-Store Jeans Display

Fig 36: Levi’s Summer 2022 Women’s Range

Fig 37-39: Diesel Comparative Shop

Fig 40-42: Diesel Comparative Shop

Fig 43: Diesel Window Display

Fig 44: Diesel Mannequin Display

Fig 45: Diesel In-Store Display

Fig 46: Diesel Denim Display

Fig 47: Diesel Denim Organisation

Fig 48-52: Levi’s Consumer Survey Results

Introduction

Founded in San Francisco, California in 1853, Levi’s is arguably the most recognisable denim brand in the world. With nearly 500 stores worldwide, the brand has become one of the major global fashion brands in the 21st century and is a global leader in jeans (Levi’s, 2022).

In 2022, there is no denying that the denim industry has a huge environmental impact:

• About 8,000 litres of water are required to grow enough cotton for one pair of jeans (The 71 Percent, n.d.)

• 99.9% of all denim is dyed using synthetic indigo that contains toxic chemicals like Cyanide and Formaldehyde (Glamour Magazine, 2019)

• Dye residue eventually ends up in rivers and other waterways, harming humans and aquatic life (Fashion Revolution, 2020)

Facts like these reinforce the reality that denim brands must change their methods to address the issue of sustainability.

Levi’s has built a strong groundwork for sustainable production in the past decade. Following in the same vein, Levi’s Spring Summer 2023 collection will use only environmentally friendly plant-based dyes and sustainably grown cotton.

As an industry leader, it is important for Levi’s to set an example for other denim brands in 2023 and continue to push the denim industry toward becoming fully sustainable as they have already begun to do.

2: Indigo Dye Runoff in Lesotho (The Independent, 2021)

Part 1: Market, Consumer, and Trend Research & Analysis

A. Market Analysis

i. Brand Positioning Map

Fig. 3: Brand Positioning Map

Levi’s is the global leader in Jeanswear and one of the biggest names in global apparel (Levi Strauss & Co). Levi’s key competitors are a variety of different denim and everyday apparel brands, the most notable of these are True Religion

Brand Jeans, Diesel, Calvin Klein Jeans, Carhartt, Lee Jeans, and Wrangler, with Lee Jeans and Wrangler being most similar to Levi’s in terms of price point and product range. Overall, Levi’s price point is extremely competitive as it is one of the lower priced brands in this bracket, but there is still room for expansion when it comes to product range amongst competitors.

Fig.

A. Market Analysis

ii. Comparative Shop: Levi’s & Diesel

Summary of Findings

In-Store

q Levi’s storefront is much more inviting and attractive to customers

q Both have a limited and more curated selection of clothing in-store compared to online

q Diesel has a much more luxury/fashionable atmosphere and decoration

q Levi’s has much more information and marketing content posted all over the store

q Both delegate a large portion of the store to jeans and other denim items

Fig.

q The target consumer is the same for both brands, however Levi’s store attracts this consumer more successfully than Diesel’s store

q Both have summer range items and trend-oriented pieces situated in the front of the store, and all denim and core jean styles in the back of the store

q Both use a variety of display structures (hangers, shelves, mannequins, stands)

q Both have good customer service and friendly staff Online

q Both have a significantly larger product selection available online

q Both have much more size availability online

q Diesel’s website is much more minimalistic, whilst Levi’s uses interactive marketing content to invite customers in

q Both retailer’s websites create a better shopping experience than in-store

full comparative shop (pages

A. Market Analysis

iii. SWOT Analyses

Fig. 7: Wrangler Logo (Wikimedia Commons) Fig. 6: Levi’s Logo (Wikimedia Commons)

Current product range is very versatile, contains core items that are suited to all seasons

Huge range of unisex/non-gender specific core pieces

Very wide size range

Range is quite immune to changing trends

Strengths

Lower entry and mid-level pricing compared to main competitor (Levi’s)

Sizing is very inclusive

Product range is not very balanced in comparison to Levi’s (all classic and basic pieces)

Lots of great alternative denim brands on the market that are quite popular

Website is not organised for each season so it is hard to find clothing specifically for SS22

Weaknesses

Limited range of colours in SS22 collection (not many summer colours)

Very limited product range, quite repetitive

Very limited selection of unisex or non gender specific clothing

First owned and operated distribution centre opened in 2021 with more centres currently being constructed, Levi’s can eliminate reliance on third party logistics

The 2022 product range is already much more sustainably produced in comparison to competitors, giving Levi’s a good framework to continue their sustainable production going forward

Opportunities

Already have a sustainable collection however it is somewhat limited, if the range was expanded it could be much more competitive

Most of the range is using 100% recycled cotton endorsed by the Better Cotton Initiative, ahead of most other denim brands in terms of sustainability

As Levi’s continue to produce more sustainably, production costs will increase

Entry and mid-level pricing is slightly higher than main competitors’ pricing

Threats

Levi’s is significantly ahead in terms of incorporating sustainability as a key initiative

Women’s summer range is quite limited in comparison to men’s

B. Consumer Analysis

i. Consumer Profile & Pen Portrait

Fig. 9: Jaden Smith Levi’s Trucker (Levi.com)

Generational Group

Levi’s has always had a wide age range of consumers, typically including individuals between the ages of 18 & 60 years old. That being said, in recent times, Levi’s has shifted its focus toward tapping into its youthful reputation and strong popularity amongst individuals aged 16-35. Targeting Generation-Z and Millennials.

Demographics

• All genders

• All race and ethnicities

• Low to median income

• University students

• Individuals in creative fields

• Working class to middle class

• Any level of education

• Those with more of an interest in fashion and clothing

• Living in major cities across the US and UK

Buying Motives

• Purchase clothing that is considered cool and will improve one’s appearance

• Purchase conversation pieces rather than clothing that is purely functional

• Consider a brand’s efforts to be sustainable when choosing to purchase from them, but not necessarily a dealbreaker (see online survey in appendix

B. Consumer Analysis

ii. Adoption of Innovation and Trend

The Levi’s consumer is not an innovator or early adopter when it comes to the adoption of trends. Being that they are not obsessively interested in fashion but still slightly aware, they would be considered a part of the late majority. They pick up on trends well after they have become popular in mainstream society, but while they are still in fashion.

Fig. 10: Everett Roger’s Diffusion of Innovation (1971) Curve

C. Spring Summer 2023 Trend Analysis

The SS23 Denim trends found on WGSN that have inspired the collection are low-impact dyes, circular fibers, and made to degrade (WGSN). All of these trends place an emphasis on low environmental impact through the use of sustainable fibers that are biodegradable or able to be reused and recycled, and the use of low-impact non-toxic plant-based dyes. The color trends that have influenced the color palette of the collection are grounding pigments: denim dyed with plantbased dyes, grey-cast: the return of stonewash as a core minimalist colour, and desert-rider: denim with an overdyed, washed look in sedimentary colours ’as if it has been left out to bake in the desert sun’ (WGSN, 2021). The key denim items for SS23 identified by WGSN that have been incorporated into the collection are the premium denim trucker, the denim short, the denim resort shirt, the straight leg jean, the classic denim jacket, and the wide leg jean. The trims used in the collection are silver button and rivet details as well as contrast reverse stitching throughout the pieces as a decorative touch to give the collection a more workwear inspired look with a fashionable twist.

The collection aims to target gen-z and younger millennials (16-35) as this has been identified as Levi’s target consumer going forward. Additionally, individuals of this age group have a good awareness of upcoming trends and place much more of an emphasis on the importance of sustainability in fashion and so the mindfulness and reduced environmental impact of this collection caters to that need.

Fig. 11: Fabrics Moodboard (Images from WGSN)

Fig. 12: Materials Moodboard (Images from WGSN)

Fig. 13: Key Items and Trims Moodboard (Images from WGSN)

Part 2: Spring 2023 Range Planning

A. Trend Translation

Levi’s is the first name that comes to mind when one thinks of denim, but it is also one of the most sustainability focused fashion brands in the modern day. In the last few years Levi’s has been doing significant work to reduce their environmental footprint and to make the denim industry more sustainable as a whole. Some of their most recent commitments include:

• 100% renewable energy in all owned-and-operated facilities by 2025

• 100% more sustainably sourced cotton by 2025

• End use of synthetic virgin fibers by 2030

Collection name: Levi’s Made by NatureUse of earth-friendly, plant-based and non-toxic dyes to create earthbased pigments in denim has been identified as a key trend for Denim in Spring 2023 by WGSN.

Taking inspiration from this idea, the Menswear collection will include 6 different denim pieces:

• A zipped denim jacket

• A classic trucker jacket

• Wide leg jeans

• Straight leg jeans

• Wide leg denim shorts

• A short sleeve denim resort shirt

The entire collection will be constructed from sustainably grown, 100 percent organic cotton that is both biodegradable and recyclable.

Each piece will come in four different colors, all of which will be created using sustainably grown plant-based dyes. The colors are:

• Washed beige dyed with Sumac Leaves

• Dark grey dyed with Iris Root

• Light wash blue dyed with Woad

• Dark indigo dyed with True Indigo

All pieces will have metallic button and rivet details, as well as reverse stitching for a more workwear inspired look.13

14: Trend Translation Moodboard(Images from WGSN)

B. Balanced Product Range

i. Range Pyramid

The balanced product range is spread across three categories determined by price range and design intricacy. The core category includes pieces that are Levi’s staples, fashion includes more playful designs and less commonly used silhouettes, and hero is reserved for the pieces that are new designs for Levi’s and stray further into the fashion category with more unique design elements.

Fig. 15: Range Pyramid (CADS adapted from WGSN)

B. Balanced Product Range

ii. Pricing Architecture

The S/S 2023 collection has an entry level price of £70 for the resort shirt with mid level pricing ranging from £80 to £95 for legwear and exit level pricing between £120 and £130 for outerwear.

When comparing the entry, mid, and exit prices of the new product range with those of Levi’s main competitor's S/S 2022 ranges; the pricing of the S/S 2023 collection is competitive and on par with competition. The entry level pricing is slightly higher than both Lee and Wrangler, however the mid level is relatively similar and exit level is in between the two.

Fig. 16: Pricing Architecture(CADS Adapted from WGSN)

Fig. 17: Comparative Price Classification(Images from Wikimedia Commons)

Part 3: Range Development

A. Range Plan

Levi's

Collection Name: Made By Nature

Spring/Summer 2023

Style Number Style Description Fabric Colour Country of Origin Store Launch Date Product Classification Price Attribute Cost Price Selling Price/RRP Intake Margin Size Range

1 Boxy Fit Denim Shirt 100% Cotton Washed Blue Sri Lanka 2-Jun-22 Fashion Entry 14.55£ 70.00£ 75.10% XS-XXL

2 Boxy Fit Denim Shirt 100% Cotton Dark Indigo Sri Lanka 2-Jun-22 Fashion Entry 14.55£ 70.00£ 75.10% XS-XXL

3 Boxy Fit Denim Shirt 100% Cotton Washed Beige Sri Lanka 2-Jun-22 Fashion Entry 14.55£ 70.00£ 75.10% XS-XXL

4 Boxy Fit Denim Shirt 100% Cotton Dark Grey Sri Lanka 2-Jun-22 Fashion Entry 14.55£ 70.00£ 75.10% XS-XXL

5 Wide Leg Denim Short 100% Cotton Washed Blue Vietnam 2-Jun-22 Classic Entry 15.20£ 80.00£ 77.20% XS-XXL

6 Wide Leg Denim Short 100% Cotton Dark Indigo Vietnam 2-Jun-22 Classic Entry 15.20£ 80.00£ 77.20% XS-XXL

7 Wide Leg Denim Short 100% Cotton Washed Beige Vietnam 2-Jun-22 Classic Entry 15.20£ 80.00£ 77.20% XS-XXL

8 Wide Leg Denim Short 100% Cotton Dark Grey Vietnam 2-Jun-22 Classic Entry 15.20£ 80.00£ 77.20% XS-XXL

9 Straight Leg Jeans 100% Cotton Washed Blue Vietnam 20-Mar-22 Classic Entry 16.90£ 90.00£ 77.40% XS-XXL

10 Straight Leg Jeans 100% Cotton Dark Indigo Vietnam 20-Mar-22 Classic Entry 16.90£ 90.00£ 77.40% XS-XXL

11 Straight Leg Jeans 100% Cotton Washed Beige Vietnam 20-Mar-22 Classic Entry 16.90£ 90.00£ 77.40% XS-XXL

Straight Leg Jeans 100% Cotton Dark Grey Vietnam 20-Mar-22 Classic Entry 16.90£ 90.00£ 77.40% XS-XXL

Wide Leg Jeans 100% Cotton Washed Blue Vietnam 20-Mar-22 Fashion Mid 17.30£ 95.00£ 78.10% XS-XXL

Wide Leg Jeans 100% Cotton Dark Indigo Vietnam 20-Mar-22 Fashion Mid 17.30£ 95.00£ 78.10% XS-XXL

Wide Leg Jeans

Cotton Washed Beige Vietnam 20-Mar-22 Fashion Mid 17.30£ 95.00£ 78.10% XS-XXL

Dark Grey Vietnam 20-Mar-22 Fashion Mid 17.30£ 95.00£ 78.10% XS-XXL

Washed Blue Sri Lanka 2-Jun-22 Classic Mid 17.95£ 120.00£ 82.10% XS-XXL

Dark

Lanka 2-Jun-22 Classic Mid 17.95£ 120.00£ 82.10% XS-XXL

2-Jun-22

2-Jun-22

20-Mar-22

Mid 17.95£ 120.00£ 82.10% XS-XXL

Mid 17.95£ 120.00£ 82.10% XS-XXL

18.10£ 130.00£ 83.30% XS-XXL

18.10

130.00

83.30% XS-XXL

18.10£ 130.00£ 83.30% XS-XXL

18.10

130.00

83.30% XS-XXL

Part 4: Sourcing Strategy

A.

Sustainability and Country of Origin

• The Majority of Levi’s production is currently spread out across China, India, Vietnam, Sri Lanka, and Bangladesh (Levi Strauss Annual Report 2021)

• Levi’s water stewardship and “Water<Less program”: A partnership with the World Wildlife Fund to identify and relieve causes of water stress (Levi Strauss Annual Report 2021).

• Working in concordance with the US Cotton Trust and Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) to improve cotton cultivation globally through the implementation of sustainable farming practices with the overarching goal of using innovation and advocacy to create change in the denim industry (Levi Strauss Annual Report 2021).

• Levi’s current sourcing scheme actively contributes to United Nations Sustainable Development goals 6, 12, 13, 14 and 15 through a variety of sustainable practices.

• Circular production: garments are designed for longer use and are built to be reused and repurposed into other garments, or to be safely recycled (Levi Strauss Annual Report 2021).

• 2025 Water and Fibre Commitments:

• 50% reduction of water use in manufacturing areas of high stress

• 100% of key fabric and garment suppliers to meet Water<Less targets, 100% of key factories and mills will become designated Water<Less facilities (Levi Strauss Annual Report 2021)

• 100% more sustainable sourced cotton by 2025 (Levi Strauss Annual Report 2021)

• 2025 Climate Commitments:

• 90% absolute reduction in GHG emissions in all owned-andoperated facilities by 2025

• 100% renewable electricity in all owned-and-operated facilities

• 40% absolute reduction in GHG emissions across global supply chain (Levi Strauss Annual Report 2021)

Fig. 19: All Sourcing Scorecards (Global Data Apparel)

Fig. 20: Levi’s Water<Less(Levi.com)

A. Sustainability and Country of Origin (continued)

• In terms of Labour, Levi’s puts people first with their active commitment to United Nations Sustainable Development Goals 1, 2, 3, 5, 8, 10, 11, 16. Levi’s commits to paying legal wages, enforcing fair working hours, providing adequate health and safety conditions, and fully eliminating forced labour and child labour while also teaching other industry members about these illegal practices and advocating for change (Levi Strauss Annual Report 2021). Additionally, Levi’s aims to give all workers a voice and a platform to be heard. With 39% female leadership, 46% female executive management, and 33% female board of directors (Levi Strauss Annual Report 2021), it is clear that equal opportunity is important in all levels of the Levi’s brand.

• When it comes to workers rights, Levi’s supply chain zero tolerance violations include underage workers, forced labour, corporal punishment, sexual harassment, violation of ethical standards, infringements on freedom of association, falsification of records, inadequate fire prevention, failure to provide adequate emergency exits, unauthorized subcontracting (Levi Strauss Annual Report 2021).

• The Made By Nature range will be sourced from Vietnam and Sri Lanka

• These two countries are two of Levi’s largest production hubs (Levi Strauss Annual Report 2021)

• Vietnam’s sustainability scorecard scores most consistently well in all categories when compared to all of Levi’s sourcing countries (Global Data Apparel Intelligence, 2022)

• Sri Lanka is the least expensive production country out of all five so would be a good way to spread out production while limiting costs (Global Data Apparel Intelligence, 2022)

Fig. 21: Vietnam Sourcing Scorecard (Global Data Apparel)

Fig. 22: Sri Lanka Sourcing Scorecard (Global Data Apparel)

A. Sustainability and Country of Origin (continued)

• The S/S 2023 range will continue to implement Levi’s current sustainable supply chain practices

• Strict enforcing of workers rights throughout all levels of the supply chain as well as equal opportunity and representation in the company reflect UN SDGs 1,2,3,5,8 and 10

• SDG 12 is represented with the use of 100% Organic Cotton in all pieces of the collection as well as making all garments safely recyclable

• A continuation of the Water<Less program and use of Water<Less practices in the construction of all garments in the Spring Summer collection as well as the use of US Cotton Trust and Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) cotton in all pieces follows SDGs 14 and 15

Fig. 23: UN SDGs(Un.org)

B. Costing

• Vietnam and the UK have a preferential trade agreement, making the tariff rate for denim imports 6.00% (Gov.UK, 2022)

• Sri Lanka has a 0% tariff rate for denim imports as a result of its classification in the UK’s General Scheme of Preference (GSP) (Gov.UK, 2022)

Item Cost Price Selling Price/RRP

Calculation

Intake Margin

Denim Shirt £14.55 £70.00 ((70/1.2 VAT)-14.55)/(70/1.2 VAT)*100= 75.1 75.1%

Denim Shorts £15.20 £80.00 ((80/1.2 VAT)-15.20)/(80/1.2 VAT)*100= 77.2 77.2%

Straight Leg Jeans £16.90 £90.00 ((90/1.2 VAT)-16.90)/(90/1.2 VAT)*100= 77.4 77.4%

Wide Leg Jeans £17.30 £95.00 ((95/1.2 VAT)-17.30)/(95/1.2 VAT)*100= 78.1 78.1%

Vintage Fit Trucker £17.95 £120.00 ((120/1.2 VAT)-17.95)/(120/1.2 VAT)*100= 82.1 82.1%

Zipped Trucker £18.10 £130.00 ((130/1.2 VAT)-18.10)/(130/1.2 VAT)*100= 83.3 83.3%

24: Intake Margin Calculations

Item Selling Price/RRP

B. Costing (continued)

Intake Margin Net Price

Gross Profit Landed Cost Price

Denim Shirt £70.00 75.1% 70/1.2 = £58.3 (58.30/100) x 75.1% = £43.78 58.30 – 43.78 = £14.52

Denim Shorts £80.00 77.2% 80/1.2 = £66.7 (66.70/100) x 77.2% = £51.49 66.70 – 51.49 = £15.21

Straight Leg Jeans £90.00 77.4% 90/1.2 = £75 (75/100) x 77.4% = £58.05 75.00 – 58.05 = £16.95

Wide Leg Jeans £95.00 78.1% 95/1.2 = £79.2 (79.20/100) x 78.1% = £61.86 79.20 – 61.86 = £17.34

Vintage Fit Trucker £120.00 82.1% 120/1.2 = £100 (100/100) x 82.1% = £82.10 100.00 – 82.10 = £17.90

Zipped Trucker £130.00 83.3% 130/1.2 = £108.3 (108.30/100) x 83.3% = £90.21 108.30 – 90.21 = £18.09

Landed Cost Price Calculations

Part 5: Range Visualisation: Look Book

Reference List

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ii. Comparative Shop: Levi’s

Appendix

ii. Comparative Shop: Levi’s (continued)

Appendix

ii. Comparative Shop: Levi’s (continued)

Fig. 32: Levi’s In-Store Accessories

Fig. 33: Levi’s In-Store Display

Fig. 34: Levi’s Window Display

Fig. 35: Levi’s In-Store Jeans Display

Fig. 36: Levi’s Summer 2022 Women’s Range

Appendix

ii. Comparative Shop: Diesel

ii. Comparative Shop: Diesel (continued)

Appendix

ii. Comparative Shop: Diesel (continued)

45: Diesel In Store Display

Fig. 46: Diesel Denim Display

Fig. 47: Diesel Denim Organisation

Results from a survey sent out to a group of 50+ people ranging in age from 16-56. Results were used in determining who Levi’s biggest consumer is, what the main channel they purchase clothing through is, and how important sustainability is to consumers today. Additionally, the survey was used to determine what consumers think are Levi’s strongest products as well as if they believe Levi’s makes enough of an effort to be sustainable in 2022.

Fig. 48: Levi’s Consumer Survey Results

Fig.

Levi’s Consumer Survey Results

Levi’s Consumer Survey Results

Fig. 51: Levi’s Consumer Survey Results

Fig. 52: Levi’s Consumer Survey Results