The Emperor of Ice Cream
FROZEN CUSTARD
Even before Wallace Stevens penned the poem “The Emperor of Ice-Cream” in 1922, ice cream had long been a beloved sweet treat—the favorite of America’s founding fathers—served at many occasions (thankfully, not just at funerals, as is the case in the poem). But ice cream was not the first frozen dessert! Its progenitors and variations are many. Here’s your guide to telling a gelato from a custard and everything in between. — Christie Porter
History: Frozen custard likely traces its roots to Coney Island, in 1919. What you need to know: Traditionally, ice cream is made with sugar, cream and eggs, but, in modern times, binders like Xanthum Gum have replaced the eggs. Not so with frozen custard, which contains egg yolks, and has a denser, creamier consistency.
Who Does It Best? ielsen’s Frozen Custard, N locations throughout the valley, nielsensfrozencustard.com
NOVELTY ICE CREAM
FROZEN YOGURT History: While yogurt has been around for thousands of years, frozen yogurt was probably born in the 1970s. What you need to know: Basically ice cream with at least some of the milk in the mix replaced with yogurt and the addition of yogurt cultures, making “frogurt” a bit more tart.
Who Does It Best? North Ogden Yogurt Company, 1964 N. Washington Blvd., North Ogden, (Instagram) @ northogdenyogurtcompany UGURT, 1330 E. 200 South, SLC, frozenugurt.square.site
History: From push-pops to sandwiches to waffle tacos, ice cream can come in just about any shape and complement just about any culinary companion. Ice cream has a proverbial menagerie of varied and colorful children. What you need to know: Eat ice cream with your cereal, in between two gooey cookies, frozen by liquid nitrogen, bathed in an espresso shot, or any other way you can possibly imagine.
Who Does It Best? Cereal Killerz Kitchen at The Local Market & Bar, 310 E. 400 South, SLC, thecerealkillerz.com Spilled Milk Ice Cream and Cereal Bar, 907 E. 900 South, SLC, spilledmilkicecream.com Monkeywrench, vegan ice cream, 53 E. Gallivan Ave., SLC, (Instagram) @monkeywrench_slc Penguin Brothers, gourmet ice cream sandwiches, 2040 S. 1000 East, SLC, thepenguinbrothers.com
SOFT-SERVE History: There are several competing claims about who first invented soft-serve ice cream, but Americans have enjoyed it since the 1940s. What you need to know: It’s basically just semimelted ice cream, but it can contain more air than traditional ice cream, making soft-serve a bit foamier.
Who Does It Best? Normal Ice Cream, 169 E. 900 South, SLC, normal.club J ULY /AUGUS T 2023 | SALTLAKEMAGAZINE.COM
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