WHAT THE FIRK?

Firkin casks allow brewers to flex skill and creativity

BY AVREY EVANS

TYPICALLY, A ROOM-TEMPERATURE BEER that’s gone flat is the sign of a fallen soldier. It’s a tragic, careless act of waste that invokes nauseating memories cleaning up the morning after a rager. So, you can imagine my surprise when I learned of a traditional brewing practice with a specific goal to produce barely carbonated and highly flavorful beer. RoHa brew- ing is one of many craft breweries embracing the art of firkin, their weekly firkin nights allow both consumers and brewers to venture into uncharted flavor territories.

A firkin is a specific size of cask equal to one-quarter of a barrel, or 72 pints. Originating in the Netherlands over a century ago, the British would use firkins to transport beer to the mainland without refrigeration. The process is simple; first, juvenile beer is added to the firkin with hops, sugars or other flavoring additives. Once sealed, the live yeast eats the sugars and produces natural carbonation. Beer from a firkin doesn’t undergo post-fermentation, pasteurization or filtering, and it doesn’t receive any additional artificial carbon dioxide that is typically used to create beer’s telltale fizziness. Instead, the light carbonation in firkins gives way to a smoother, more velvety mouthfeel.

While they don’t resemble the frothy pours we’re used to out of a tap, craft brewers like RoHa are using firkins to bring out nuanced and delicate flavors. Rob Phillips, who founded RoHa brewing back in 2017 with partners Chris Haas and Josh Stern, introduced the brewery’s firkin program four years ago. “We tap a new cask every Wednesday, it’s called ‘Firkin Hump Day’,” Phillips says. “We’ve probably done over 200 firkins by now.” RoHa’s brewing team uses a smaller five-gallon firkin called a pin, filling it with beer on hand that is either partially or fully fermented. “We can infuse it with anything we want, anything from graham crackers to gummy bears to normal hops and real fruit,” Phillips explains. The possibilities are endless, and tend to be seasonal. Autumn firkins have included candy corn, cinnamon bear and mexican hot chocolate, while warm-weather batches have consisted of lemon cake, chili lime mango, and cactus fruit.

The small-batched, experimental nature of firkin brews are an ideal playground for brewers like Karsen Moon, the head brewer at RoHa. “I get to mess with flavors through firkins that can end up becoming more staple beers.” RoHa’s recently-released fruited IPA ‘Hoomba Bus’ started out as a firkin, now the guava and pineapple IPA is a delightful canned brew enjoyed on summer hikes and strolls. You don’t have to be an expert like Moon to experiment with firkins, home brewers can also let their imagination run wild with the DIY casks. Phillips points out one slight disadvantage: “The biggest challenge is that once you tap it, you have to drink it all.” We recommend tapping your first home-brewed firkin with a group of beer lovers.

Beer hobbyists and skilled brewers alike are drawn to firkins, and so is the average consumer. Each wild new flavor combination is totally ephemeral—once it’s gone, it’s gone. Phillips believes that’s one of the main reasons beer lovers are so interested in firkins. “From a consumer standpoint, there’s always an interest for something that is different and changing,” he says. “Firkins are a unique experience, because they aren’t able to be exactly replicated.”

The firkin crowd showing up to RoHa every Wednesday is certainly dedicated, and their loyalty isn’t hard to understand. When I visited, the firkin tapped was Pineapple Back Porch—a hoppy brew with intense pineapple notes. Using a wooden mallet to tap the pin, there’s a brief eruption of beer filling the room with the bright scent of summer fruit. The first pour is served ceremoniously, and it’s beautiful in its own way. The beginning of the end for this batch that will never exist again. Such is life, and we cheers to enjoying this delicious fleeting thing.

RoHa is encouraging breweries around the state to get in on the firkin funk. Their Spring Firkin Festival last April gathered ten breweries, and Phillips says there are plans to host another event this fall. “We invite all breweries to stretch their legs a little bit and make something crazy and unique.” Follow the brewery on their site and socials to stay up to date on beer events and festivals, and visit their taproom for a rotating selection of seasonal beers.

30 E Kensington Ave, SLC, @rohabrewing, rohabrewing.com

AC –225 W. 200 South, SLC, 385-722-9600. achotels.marriott.com. The Euro-styled hotel has a chic lobby bar and a secret menu of drinks inspired by movies filmed in Utah, like Dumb and Dumber and Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid.

Acme Bar Co.– 837 E. 2100 South, 801-4673325. acmebarcompany.com. The Sugar House neighborhood now has a high-concept, pop-up, seasonal cocktail bar. While the theme and menus are ever-evolving, it is always a good time with tiki-centric drinks.

The Aerie –9320 Cliff Lodge Dr. Ste. 88, Snowbird Resort, 801-933-2160. snowbird.com. Floor-to-ceiling windows mean drinkers can marvel at nature’s handiwork while feasting from the sushi bar. The menu is global with live music some nights.

Alibi Bar & Place – 369 S. Main St., SLC, 385-259-0616. alibislc.com. Located along SLC’s bar line on Main Street, Alibi has a sleek, hip vibe and is generally filled with happy hipsters, especially when they have theme nights.

Back Door On Edison–152 E. 200 South, SLC, 385-267-1161. backdoorslc.com. This watering hole from the owners of Laziz Kitchen serves Lebanese-inspired bar bites and has a promising cocktail menu. Try the Oaxacan Old Fashioned along with the dip sampler.

Bar X–155 E. 200 South, SLC, 801-355-2287. barxslc.com. This was the vanguard of Salt Lake’s new cocktail movement, serving classic drinks and creative inventions behind the best electric sign in the city.

Beer Bar –161 E. 200 South, SLC, 385-259-0905. beerbarslc.com. Ty Burrell, star of ABC’s small-screen hit Modern Family, co-owns Beer Bar, which is right next to Bar X. It’s noisy, there’s no table service, but there are 140+ brews to choose from, plus 13 kinds of wurst.

The Bayou– 645 S. State St., SLC, 801-9618400. utahbayou.com. This is Beervana, with 260 bottled beers and 32 on draft. The kitchen turns out artichoke pizza and deep-fried Cornish game hens.

Beerhive Pub –128 S. Main St., SLC, 801-3644268. @beerhive_pub. More than 200 beers —domestic, imported and local—with a long ice rail to keep the brew cold, the way Americans like ’em, are the outstanding features of this cozy downtown pub.

The Black Sheep Bar & Grill–1400 S. Foothill Drive #166, SLC, 801-877-9350; 1520 W. 9000 South Ste. C, West Jordan, 801-566-2561. theblacksheepbarandgrills.com. A friendly neighborhood sports bar with a homemade American menu, 14 TVs and events almost nightly. It’s a fun place to hang with friends or cheer on your favorite team.

BTG Wine Bar – 404 S. West Temple, SLC, 801-359-2814. btgwinebar.com. BTG stands for “By the Glass” and though BTG serves craft cocktails, specialty beer and good food, the pièces de résistance are the more than 50 wines by the glass. Order a tasting portion or a full glass.

Casot Wine + Work

1508 S. 1500 East, SLC. 801-441-2873. casotwinework.com. In a town with a dearth of neighborhood bars and bars that want to be neighborhood bars but for a lack of location in an actual neighborhood, Casot is the real deal. Located in the established 15th and 15th hood, this small wine bar is a welcome addition featuring a Spanish forward list from Pago’s Scott Evans.

Contribution Cocktail Lounge –170 S. West Temple, SLC, 801-596-1234. For an escape from the hustle of downtown, pop into the Salt Lake City Hyatt Regency hotel’s cocktail lounge, to enjoy a small bite or a drink from the thoughtful cocktail menu.

Garage –1199 N. Beck St., SLC, 801-521-3904. garageonbeck.com. Everyone compares it to an Austin bar. Live music, good food and the rockingest patio in town. Try the Chihuahua, a chile-heated riff on a margarita.

The Gibson Lounge – 555 S. Main St., SLC, 801-258-6000. grandamerica.com. Grand America’s inimitable style is translated into a cushy but unstuffy bar, the antithesis of the current hipster style. You can actually wear a cocktail dress to this cocktail bar.

Good Grammar – 69 E. Gallivan Ave., SLC, 385-415-5002. goodgrammar.bar. The crowds playing Jenga on the patio, the decor, full of pop celebs and heroes, and a soundtrack of eclectic old- and alt-rock, makes a space that bridges old and young imbibers.

DIN I NG AWARD

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The Pearl–917 S. 200 West, SLC, @thepearlslc. The Pearl is a hip space serving craft cocktails and Vietnamese street food, conceived by the same minds behind Alibi Bar. The menu has items like banh mi sandwiches, caramel pork belly and chicken pho.

The Pines – 837 S. Main St., SLC, 801-906-8418. @thepines.slc. From the owners of Dick N’ Dixie’s, The Pines is an elevated neighborhood bar with a cool interior and even cooler bartenders. Stop by to taste their solid range of brews, or visit the bar on a weekend for a new wave discotheque.

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DIN I NG AWARD

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Copper Common–111 E. Broadway #190, SLC, 801-355-0543. coppercommon. com. Copper Common is a real bar—that means you don’t actually have to order food if you don’t want to. But on the other hand, why wouldn’t you want to? This bar has a real chef.

The Cotton Bottom–2820 E. 6200 South, Holladay, 801-849-8847. thecottonbottom.com

Remember when this was a ski bum’s town? The garlic burger and a beer is what you order.

Craft By Proper

1053 E. 2100 South, SLC, 385-242-7186. craftbyproper.com. Another offering from Proper Brewing, Craft is a beer snob’s dream, serving up local-only beers. You can check their rotating “On Tap” list to see if they’re pouring your favorite, and the glass coolers behind the bar are stocked full of canned and bottled options.

Dick n’ Dixie’s – 479 E. 300 South, SLC, 801994-6919. @dickndixies. The classic corner beer bar where cronies of all kinds gather regularly to watch sports, talk politics and generally gossip about the city and nothing in particular.

East Liberty Tap House – 850 E. 900 South, SLC, 801-441-2845. eastlibertytaphouse.com

Half a dozen beers on draft and 20 or more by the bottle, and the rotation changes constantly. The menu does clever takes on bar food classics.

Eight Settlers Distillery–7321 Canyon Centre Pkwy., Cottonwood Heights, 385-900-4315. eightsettlersdistillery.com. The distillery is entrenched in and inspired by the history of the Cottonwood Heights area and so are the spirits. Take home a bottle from the store or stay and enjoy a taste of the past at the themed, on-site restaurant.

Flanker – 6 N. Rio Grande, The Gateway, SLC, 801-683-7070. flankerslc.com. A little bit sports bar, a little bit nightclub and a little bit entertainment venue, with a parlor and bowling alley, private karaoke rooms and a golf simulator.

Franklin Avenue –231 S. Edison Street, SLC, 385-831-7560. franklinaveslc.com. A swanky restaurant and bar by the minds of Bourbon Group. The food is multicultural fusion with roots in modern American. House-made pasta, seasonal veggies and Asian-inspired dishes are served alongside a diverse cocktail menu—and a wall-to-wall selection of whiskies.

Gracie’s

326 S. West Temple, SLC, 801-8197565. graciesslc.com. Play pool, throw darts, listen to live music, kill beer and time on the patio and upstairs deck. Plus, Gracie’s is a gastropub.

Green Pig– 31 E. 400 South, SLC, 801-532-7441. thegreenpigpub.com. Green Pig is a pub of a different color. The owners use eco-friendly materials and sustainable kitchen practices. The menu star is the chili verde nachos with big pork chunks and cheese.

High West Saloon–703 Park Ave., Park City, 435-649-8300. highwest.com. The bartenders at Utah’s award-winning distillery concoct different cocktail menus for every season focusing on High West’s spirits, although the bar stocks other alcohol.

Hive 435 Taphouse – 61 W. St. George Blvd, St. George, 435-619-8435. hive435taphouse.com

Providing a service to the St. George nightlife scene, Hive 435 also serves up live entertainment, gourmet pizza, sandwiches and favorite cocktails.

Ice Haus –7 E. 4800 South, Murray, 801-2662127. icehausbar.com. Ice Haus has everything you need from a neighborhood bar and a purveyor of German cuisine: a wide selection of pub fare and plenty of seating in the beer-hall inspired location. The menu has a strong number of vegan options.

Lake Effect –155 W. 200 South, SLC, 801-5322068. lakeeffectslc.com. An eclectic bar and lounge with a fine wine list and full menu. Live music many nights; open until 1 a.m.

Laurel Brasserie & Bar – 555 S. Main St., SLC, 801-258-6708. laurelslc.com. Laurel Brasserie & Bar’s food focuses on classic European cuisine with an American approach. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, but the real star is the Happy Hour menu with items like Pumpkin Arancini and The Smokey Paloma cocktail.

Oyster Bar – 48 W. Market St., SLC, 801-3224668. marketstreetgrill.com. The nightlife side of Market Street seafood restaurant, the Oyster Bar has an is a place to begin or end an evening, with an award-winning martini and a dozen oysters—half price on Mondays.

Post Office Place –16 W. Market St., SLC, 801-519-9595. popslc.com. Post Office offers craft cocktails, multicultural small plates and the largest selection of Japanese whisky in the state. Ask for a “special delivery” if you’re up for a boozy adventure.

Quarters Arcade Bar – 5 E. 400 South, SLC, 801-477-7047; 1045 E. 2100 South, SLC. quartersslc.com. Nostalgic for all those Gen Xers and gamer geeks, Quarters features retro gaming pinball and a game called Killer Queen. Drink a sling—or order a La Croix with a shot poured into the can.

Rabbit Hole –155 W. 200 South, SLC, 801-5322068. lakeeffectslc.com. Downstairs in Lake Effect, the gaslit Rabbit Hole takes you to a different time, especially on Wednesday nights which are devoted to jazz. The Rabbit is a real listening room—you don’t talk over or under the music. This rare respect and a top notch bar makes this a very unusual hare.

Scion Cider Bar –916 Jefferson St., SLC. scionciderbar.com. Cider has often taken a back seat to its more prevalent siblings, wine and beer, but not at Scion. It’s another soon-to-be favorite bar in the Central Ninth with a wide variety of 20 hard ciders on tap.

Seabird Bar & Vinyl Room–7 S. Rio Grande, The Gateway, SLC, 801-456-1223. seabirdutah.com. Great little locally owned bar in the Gateway with great views, a fun little patio, friendly bartenders and more style than the place can hold.

The Rest and Bodega – 331 S. Main St., SLC, 801-532-4452. bodegaslc.com. The neon sign says “Bodega;” drink a beer in the phone booth–sized front or head downstairs to the The Rest. Order a cocktail, settle into the apparently bomb-proof booklined library, or take a booth and sit at the bar.

The Shooting Star –7350 E. 200 South, Huntsville, 801-745-2002. shooting-star-saloon. business.site. More than a century old, this is genyou-wine Old West. The walls are adorned with moose heads and a stuffed St. Bernard. Good luck finishing your Star Burger.

Varley

63 W. 100 South, SLC, 801-203-4124. varleyslc.com. A craft cocktail bar and lounge situated right next to its companion restaurant The Ivy. The modern aesthetic pairs well with a classic cocktail and conversation.