Confident Colour TIPS ANDTOUCH-UPSTONING,CORRECTIONS,PRICINGFORCOLOURROOTMORE TIME CREATIVEHOWSERVICESSPEEDWAYSMONEY:ISTOUPYOURCOLOURTOGETWITHYOURCOLOURPORTFOLIO 1K2M8ZOnt.,Toronto,L10,SuiteAvenue,Evans365879940011270No.AgreementMailPublications SEPTEMBER 2022 salonmagazine.ca
ACIDIC INTENSIVECONCENTBONDINGRATETREATMENT CITRIC ACID + BONDING CARE COMPLEX Our highest concentration of Citric Acid + Bonding Care Complex yet. Instantly reinforces weakened bonds and prevents future breakage.** 2X STRONGER HAIR, INSTANTLY* *Use of Acidic Bonding Concentrate Intensive Treatment, shampoo and conditioner vs. non-conditioning shampoo *With continued use of Acidic Bonding Concentrate Intensive Treatment, shampoo and conditioner BEFORE AFTER ONE USE* *Acidic Bonding Concentrate Intensive Treatment, shampoo and conditioner **vs. non-conditioning shampoo INTENSIVE STRENGTH REPAIR: INSIDE AND OUT* NEW
STYLE CONFIDENTLY MEET THE NEW REDKEN STYLING WHERE SCIENCE MEETS STYLE HOLD VOLUME SHINE MOISTURETEXTURE ABSORPTIONOIL CONTROLFRIZZPROTECTIONHEAT WAVE 1: SEPTEMBER 2022 WAVE 2: DECEMBER 2022 WAVE 3: JANUARY 2023 WAVE 4: APRIL 2023
Chatters introduces new flagship location in Brampton, Ontario, featuring genderless menus and private salon rooms. largest salon chain in Canada with 100+ salonfull-servicelocations 65+ brand partners 100% Canadian owned & operated 1,200+ stylists 120,000+ unique stylist-foundedrelationshipsclient in 1991 Chatters Hair Salon Opens New and Refreshed Locations Across Ontario Canada’s largest salon-based retailer, Chatters Hair Salon, is expanding their presence in the Ontario market with new salon locations opening up throughout Ontario. Chatters currently has 115 locations across Canada and is working on expansion plans to open and refresh several salon locations before the end of the year. Photos captured by: Arthur Mola
In addition to their new Sudbury, Edmonton, and Brampton locations, Chatters will be opening and refreshing several other locations across Canada in the coming months. This includes more locations across the Greater Toronto Area, Guelph, and Kitchener in Q1 of 2023.
Chatters Hair Salon was established in 1991 in Red Deer, Alberta, as a small, stylist-founded haircare destination. It quickly became one of the most reputable salons across Western Canada. Over the last 31 years, Chatters has expanded to other areas of the country, with a major focus on the Ontario market.
Sandra Fiore Director, Design & Development at Fiore + Greco Design Inc.
The layout was optimized for functionality and flow within the space for both customers and staff to enjoy.
Chatters store designer, Sandra Fiore, says “When we developed the layout and colour palette for Chatters, a priority was creating an aesthetically pleasing environment that would be enjoyed by the wide range of clientele that Chatters caters to. Since they are such dynamic spaces, a cohesive interior concept was very important for the Chatters brand.” She added, “We used accent lighting, wallpaper and benches to frame the various experience areas including the demo bar, retail area, and professional service stations. A material board of cement, wood, white, black, and grey was combined and used evenly throughout the space for aesthetic continuity. Fiore says, “the layout was optimized for functionality and flow within the space for both customers and staff to enjoy. It was also done with the knowledge that the space planning and design concept would be brought into many other locations in the future.”
Fostering an inclusive, accessible, and welcoming environment for our stylists and their guests, and providing an exceptional customer experience is Chatters’ top priority.
“As we continue our expansion, we are devoted to listening to our stylists and guests, better anticipating their needs, enhancing our in-salon experience, and selecting the best beauty and hair care items available on the market,” says Greg Moreau, President & CEO of Chatters. “Fostering an inclusive, accessible, and welcoming environment for our stylists and their guests, and providing an exceptional customer experience is Chatters’ top priority.”
The expansion kicked off in Edmonton in early July 2022, then moved to Sudbury on July 16, 2022 and continued in Brampton on July 30, 2022 with the opening of Chatters’ flagship location at Trinity Commons. Chatters is introducing an elevated salon experience for both clients and staff. Highlights include a testing bar, improved salon functionality, a genderless service menu, and a partnership with The Dress Code Project to create safe spaces and accessibility programming. Chatters looks to redefine what a client should expect from their salon; to that end, the brand is excited to announce that their Brampton flagship location will be the first to include private salon stations for clients who need an individual experience. Chatters is now Canada’s largest salon chain to offer a gender-free service menu. Chatters strives to offer the most inclusive and environmentally sustainable salon and shopping experience to all guests, inspiring them to look good, feel good and do good, one style experience at a time.
Greg Moreau President & CEO of Chatters
Chatters vision is to constantly evolve with their guests and that means expanding salon locations, providing private rooms for those who require them and creating a gender-free service menu that is inclusive to all.
RESTRUCTURING BOND REPAIR COLLECTION Our next generation Open and scan to learn TransformativemoreRepair For Damaged Hair #AlwaysAlterna #AlternaCaviar #AlternaHaircareCan@alternahaircarecan
*Based on a study vs. untreated hair Three core formulas (Shampoo, Conditioner and Masque) have been reimagined and reformulated for the ultimate hair recovery and defense system. INTRODUCING A POWERFUL NEW GENERATION OF BOND REPAIR OUR TECHNOLOGY Featuring our exclusive Caviar Bond Enforcing Technology to repair and protect hair, reduce breakage by up to 99%*, and add strength. OUR INGREDIENTS Now blended with sustainably sourced Maracuja Oil, known for being deeply nourishing for hair that needs to regain moisture, smoothness and shine. BEFORE AFTER Corporation.HenkelofDivisionHaircareProfessionalAlterna2022©
Learn in-depth cutting techniques on all hair types from award-winning international stylists @lamajbackwards@rodrigohairdresser @michelleoconnorbeauty FREE STYLIST EDUCATION AN INDUSTRY COLLABORATION BRINGING INCLUSIVE HAIR TYPE EDUCATION TO ALL CANADIAN STYLISTS VALIANTJAMES Celebrity@sukisstylist ARANEDARODRIGO 2x NAHA winner & 2022 Contessa winner EDMONDSJAMAL NAHA 2022 Texture winner O’CONNORMICHELLE 5xwinnerNAHA SignNow!Up IN COLLABORATION WITH TYPE 1 1A-1C TYPE 2 2A-2C @hairbyjamesvaliant TYPE 4 4A-4C TYPE 3 3A-3C
37 KEVIN HUGHES, LISA DINH & MOROCCANOILDUDLEYTATIANAFOR September 2022 “I love working with Salon because they’re all about warmsinspirationalbringingcontenttohairstylists,anditmyhearttobeoneofthosestylists.” — KEVIN HUGHES, GLOBAL ARTISTIC DIRECTOR, MOROCCANOIL ON THE COVER: KEVIN HUGHES, LISA DINH & TATIANA DUDLEY FOR MOROCCANOIL, MAKEUP: WENDY RORONG, WARDROBE STYLING: MARK JOHN TRIPP, PHOTO: RENATA KAVEH 28 FEATURE Warm vs. Cool Challenge yourself to think outside of the box with these expert tips on working with warm and cool tones to create this year’s hottest colour trends. 32 FEATURE Work Smarter, Not Harder Looking for ways to save time in the salon while increasing revenue? Check out these efficient colour tips and products that might just be the answer you’ve been looking for. 37 INSPIRATION Collections Kevin Hughes, Lisa Dinh & Tatiana Dudley for Moroccanoil; Rodrigo Araneda; Bernadette Beswick; Masci Hair Team; Joan Novak 52 CONTESSA GALLERY Alma Head Find out how this Nova Scotia-based salon owner continues to push her creative boundaries, and learn why competing is so important to salonmagazine.caher. / September 2022 13
36 SALON STORIES Behind the Scenes with Moroccanoil! Take an exclusive look behind our September cover shoot with Moroccanoil. 54 PROFILE Knowing His Worth Get to know Beverly Hillsbased colourist J Ladner and learn how he grew from a small-town colourist and salon owner into a digital savvy educator who travels the globe. 16 Editor’s Letter 18 LET’S GET DIGITAL SalonMagazine.ca Don’t miss out on the latest industry news and Contessa announcements! Plus, check out our inspirational collection archive, along with haircutting, colour, styling and nail how-tos. 19 WHAT’S NEW Hairlines Discover new product launches in colour, haircare, styling, nails and more. Plus, get familiar with hair and beauty trends from autumn/ winter 2022 Fashion Week. 56 BUSINESS Price Check Are you struggling with how to price your colour services? Check out these effective and easily implemented charging tips that will help you and your business succeed. 58 INTERIORS Mindful Escape Take a tour of this Torontobased owner’s new space and learn how he took an experiential approach to its design. 63 Events/Scoop 66 SALON SOCIAL Colourful Creations Check out these eye-catching hair colour looks from Canadian hairstylists on social media, and find out how you, too, can have a chance of being published. 46 AUSTRALIAHAIRMASCITEAM, 44 AUSTRALIAEDUCATIONBESWICK,BERNADETTEBESWICKSERVICES, 14 salonmagazine.ca / September 2022
Salon_MagazineSalonMagsalonmagazineSalonMagazine FINGERTIPSRIGHTMORE–DISCOVERATYOUR BUILD SEEREWARDINGACAREERGETTHELATESTINDUSTRYNEWSSTUNNINGCOLLECTIONSFINDTHETECHNICALADVICEYOUCRAVE salonmagazine.ca
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Veronica Boodhan
Feeling Reinspired
ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Stephanie MacDonald
The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.
From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131 or e-mail helpdesk@subscriptions.salon. Our privacy officer is Adrian Holland. Salon Magazine This project has been made possible [in part] by the Government of Canada. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilites exist. Printed on recyclable paper veronica@salonmagazine.ca Gallant stephanie@salonmagazine.ca Shanice Romelus shanice@salonmagazine.ca Boodhan Editorial Director
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CONTRIBUTORS Liz Bruckner, Sami Chazonoff CONSULTANT Laura Dunphy laura@salonmagazine.ca SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Marc Gadbois marc@salonmagazine.ca SALES & EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Lauren Farrugia lauren@salonmagazine.ca PRODUCTION MANAGER Alan Swinton production@salonmagazine.ca OFFICE MANAGER Cathy Donaghy cathy@salonmagazine.ca CIRCULATION MANAGER Adrian Holland helpdesk@subscriptions.salon CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER & PUBLISHER Tom Arkell tom@salonmagazine.ca Salon Magazine 183 Bathurst Street Suite 202, Toronto, ON, M5T 2R7 T. ForSubscription416.869.3131RatesCanada1year(9 issues) $40.00 + tax 1 year (3 copies each of 9 issues) $60.00 HST included. Canadian orders only, must be to same location US 1 year (9 issues) $50 USD Address helpdesk@subscriptions.salonChanges or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services, Salon Magazine, 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10 Toronto, ON M8Z 1K2 641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada Ltd.) Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10, Toronto, ON M8Z 1K2 Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40011270 ISSN 1197-1495, VOLUME 31, ISSUE 6 SALONMAGAZINE.CA LetterEditor’s — 16 salonmagazine.ca / September 2022 Veronica
DIGITAL SPECIALIST
At one point or another in our professional lives, there are times in which we find ourselves in a creative rut, simply going through the motions. And while these moments can arise for a plethora of reasons, it’s important to take the time to not only remind yourself about what you love most about your craft, but to focus on the positive impact you have on the clients who put their trust in you. Ensuring that you surround yourself (whether physically or virtually) with mentors and/or colleagues who inspire you is also key, as being challenged to be and give your best—and to push past your self-imposed limits—is a sure-fire way to rekindle your passion, confidence, and direction. One of the best examples of this is at our annual Contessa Awards gala. Seeing beauty rookies, veterans and everyone in between come together to support and celebrate each other continues to be one of the main reasons I’m so proud to work with our team on such a fantastic event. It’s amazing to me that this year will be my seventh, and I’m so happy that it’s back to a LIVE and in-person event on November 20th. Tickets go on sale soon! And for those who haven’t entered yet, there’s still time (entry deadline is September 8th). As for this, our colour issue, the Salon team was happy to collaborate with Moroccanoil for our cover shoot. Being around such talented creatives and watching them work was a joy, and knowing that we can provide a platform that enables their work to be shared across the country and around the world is a privilege. Check out our behind-the-scenes coverage on page 36. We also sourced expert insights into how to get inspired behind the chair. If the pandemic has taught us anything, it’s that time is money! Learn how to work more efficiently with colour in Work Smarter, Not Harder (pg. 32). And if you’re looking to get more creative with your colour portfolio, check out our expert tips in Warm vs. Cool (pg. 28). No matter what your specialty or weakness, my advice is to strive to continually fine-tune your abilities while smelling the roses along the way. Yes, there can be pain in growth but there’s beauty in it, as well!
spg.salonmagazine.ca PRODUCT GUIDE Search by product category or keyword. Also, find a comprehensive list of Canadian manufacturers and distributors. We help you narrow the search.
18 salonmagazine.ca / September 2022 salonmagazine.ca Action!Camera,Lights, StationMotivation Get inspired to push your creative boundaries with our collection archive, which features hairstyles, colour, cuts and more from all over the world! Are you ready for the biggest night in Canadian professional beauty? Tickets go on sale soon! And don’t forget that you have until September 8th to submit your entries. CARRERA,CLARAMAKEUP:SPAIN,BETA,CENTROZARAUZA,GONZALOHAIR:PHOTOS: INSTAGRAMARNAL;DAVIDPHOTOS:FASHIONART,VISORISTYLING:WARDROBEMani Magic If you’re looking to step up your game as a nail artist, check out our how-tos that are sure to give you (and your clients) all the inspo you need. Go Bold or Go Home Entries are opening soon for our next “So You Think You Can Colour?” contest, sponsored by Pravana! Stay tuned for more details about the contest theme and what it takes to win. #SYTYCC } HairHollywood We have step-by-step details from celebrity hairstylists on how to recreate red carpet looks for your clients.
To see the full collection, visit SalonMagazine.ca.MARQUEZJAVIERPHOTO:SANCHEZ,ANDREASTYLING:WARDROBELOPEZ,DAVIDMAKEUP:AVEDA,FORX-PRESIONHAIR:PHOTO: SAY HELLO TOLAUNCHES.WITHAUTUMNNEWCOLOUR,CAREANDSTYLINGPLUS,GETINSIGHTINTOTHISSEASON’SBIGGESTFASHIONWEEKTRENDS. For their first-ever guest artist results?createfromrenownedforcesAvedacollaboration,hasjoinedwithworld-X-presionMadrid,Spain,toGraphicOrganic,aninspirationalandeducationalcollectionfeaturinguniquelooksandstrikingcolourplacement.X-presioncombinedtheirsignaturetechniqueswithnature-inspiredshapesandpatterns,andusedAveda’sveganFullSpectrumhaircolourtocustomizetheirownshades.TheArangeoflooksthatmotivateyoutothinkoutsidethebox.
It’s also made with the brand’s exclusive Bond-Protecting Concentrate and is formulated with 100 per cent oxidative dyes as well as citric acid and glycine to protect fibres and allow for deposit only, leaving your clients’ hair conditioned and shiny.
Fall is the perfect time to embrace richer hues, and Redken has you and your clients covered with their new natural chocolate shades. Available in Shades EQ Bonder Inside and Cover Fusion, the new tones include 07Nch (Fondue), 06nCH (Ganache) and 04NCh (Dark Chocolate). Perfect for refreshing colour, the Shades EQ Bonder Inside range helps repair weak bonds during a colour service, and Cover Fusion offers up to 100 per cent grey coverage. The results? A multidimensional, cool and balanced finish that’s sure to satisfy all your brunette clients’ cravings.
Hairlines NEWS— ➣
POWERFULLY CLEAN Enjoy
SOMETHING SWEET Get chocolatenewwithbrunettedecadentcolourRedken’snaturalranges.
Featuring clean formulas with advanced technology and sustainable packaging, Schwarzkopf Professional's new Bonacure Clean Performance is designed to help your clients achieve healthy and beautiful hair. Formulated with a new vegan care complex made of vegan keratin and cell equalizer technology, it also features skincare actives, which benefits hair from the inside out, increasing its elasticity and inner hair strength. The technology also aligns and seals the cuticle to reduce frizz and restore hair’s natural protective shield by replenishing cells from the cuticle to the cortex while simultaneously rebuilding the structure of the hair with amino-acid chains. The Bonacure Clean Performance ranges are available in colour-coded ranges: Repair Rescue (for damaged hair), Moisture Kick (for normal to dry hair), Color Freeze (for coloured hair) and Time Restore (for mature and fragile hair). All products are 100 per cent vegan and free from silicones, sulphates, parabens, mineral oils, microplastics and artificial colourants.
Open Air Pre-Bonded Precise Balayage Clay Lightener
Bonacure.Professional'sSchwarzkopfandperformancenext-levelcleanwithnew
SoColor 10 Min Pre-Bonded If you’re looking to speed up your colour services with a product that’s ideal for walk-ins, root touch-ups or an add-on service, the 10-Min Pre-Bonded range is available in 10 shade packettes that include pre-mixed colour and developer. Each packette is formulated with an Alkaline Bu er System to control overprocessing, High Kinetic Dye Blends, and the brand’s Bond-Protecting Concentrate to protect your client’s inner hair structure. ➣
ALL FROMPACKAGINGFEATUREPRODUCTSFULLYRECYCLABLEMADEUPTO97PERCENTRECYCLEDPLASTIC! ➣ 20 salonmagazine.ca / September 2022
Something for Everyone
PROFESSIONALSCHWARZKOPFREDKEN,HAIRCARE,ALTERNAPRAVANA,MATRIX,(CLOCKWISE):PHOTO
Plus, it can lift up to seven levels with a processing time of up to 50 minutes.
Ideal for freehand techniques, this clay lightener is suitable for all hair types— including any level, texture or pattern—and works on natural or colour-treated hair. Its whipped clay texture saturates hair and forms to its natural bends, making it perfect to apply with both a brush or your hands, on or o the scalp.
From 10-minute colour to open-air lightener to new toning shades, learn how Matrix's latest launches can help you work more e ciently.
SoColor Sync Acidic Toners (Neutral Gold Ash)
The new Neutral Gold Ash shades in 6NGA, 7NGA and 9NGA are perfect for clients looking for a lived-in, natural colour, and can be used to enhance or neutralize the tone of hair after lightening. Each product is formulated with the brand’s exclusive Bond-Protecting Concentrate, which protects the inner hair structure without compromising its integrity.
REMINDER: Contessa finalists will each receive one complimentary, non-transferable ticket!
ENTRY SEPTEMBERDEADLINE8,2022 Contessa Awards Gala November 20, 2022 Westin Harbour Castle, Toronto salonmagazine.ca / September 2022 21
Hosted by our beloved master of ceremonies, Bill Rowley, this year’s gala will feature stage presentations from Dana Lyseng for Wella Professionals and Rodrigo Araneda for Matrix Canada. Plus, we have a special live show opener from a multi-Contessa winner that you’ll have to see to believe!
YOUR TICKET GETS YOU… Each Contessa ticket grants you access to the pre-event cocktail reception featuring a live red carpet and fun sponsor activations, plus the awards ceremony where you’ll enjoy a three-course dinner (including wine). You’ll also receive complimentary access to the on-site Contessa After-Party, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional and Alterna! Plus, every ticket holder will receive a swag bag filled with products from sponsors, which is valued at more than $700! Tickets can only be purchased at SalonMagazine.ca/Contessa and go on sale on September 21st! The early bird ticket price is $190, so be sure to get yours before prices increase in October.
This new creamy formula o ers up to nine levels of powerful and reliable lift in just 45 minutes, all the while maintaining your clients’ hair health with results that are hydrating and nourishing. With a formula that’s easy to mix and apply, you can transform your clients’ hair into the blonde shade of their dreams without worrying about drying out their strands. the ➣ Contessa Is Back! Everything you need to know about this year’s LIVE gala. After hosting our past two galas virtually, we’re exciting to be back to a live, in-person format on November 20, 2022 for the 34th annual Contessa Awards! Are you ready to join your friends and colleagues for Canada’s biggest celebration in professional beauty? Set your reminders because tickets go on sale on September 21st!
Designed for clients with damaged hair, the newly enhanced Caviar Anti-Aging formula is available in the Restructuring Bond Repair Shampoo, Conditioner and Masque. The formula includes Alterna’s Bond Enforcing Technology and contains sustainably sourced Maracuja Oil to prevent breakage, mend split ends, and leave hair smooth and shiny. The Restructuring Bond Repair Shampoo offers a gentle cleanse that’s colour-safe and removes buildup; the Restructuring Bond Repair Conditioner moisturizes and protects hair to reduce frizz and increase softness; and the Restructuring Bond Repair Masque is a deep moisture treatment that helps repair damaged hair for strands that are softer, shinier and healthier after just one use. The revamped products also contain the brand’s signature green tea and almond milk fragrance, and are now available in bottles made with 50 per cent post-consumer recycled (PCR) plastic.
Stronger Than Ever
Hairlines NEWS—
Alterna unveils its new and improved Caviar Anti-Aging Restructuring Bond Repair products.
Get the benefits of a powder lightener in a cream format with Pravana’s Pure Light Blonding Creme.
BRIGHTER BLONDES
THE BIG NIGHT The Contessa Awards is a fun-filled night that unites the industry from coast to coast. From our 24 award categories to spectacular stage shows, you won’t want to miss it!
➣ INSTAGRAMDESIGN,NAILARTISTICORLY,GELISH,OPI,CND,RIOT,PULPPROFESSIONNEL,OLIGOKENRA,PHOTO: Hairlines NEWS—
Thedevelopers!colourtubes are comprised of 100 per cent recycled aluminum and feature a cap made with 100 per cent recycled plastic. In addition, each box is made from 93 per cent recycled cardboard while the lightener tubs feature cans made with 40 to 80 per cent post-consumer recycled (PCR) and body made with more than 90 per cent PCR.
Building Bonds
NEW LOOK Rediscover Kenra’s Simply Blonde product!anblondinghigh-performancesystem,nowfeaturingupdatedlookandanew
➣ 22 salonmagazine.ca / September 2022
The Beyond Bond Lightener and Clay Lightener are integrated with the brand’s Dual Bond Complex, which contains L-arginine to help repair the inner cuticle and targets selected bonds six times stronger, while sealing and protecting the outer cuticle. The Ultra Lifts are available in Pearl, Natural and Ice shades and o er up to four levels of lift and tone in one step, and the new Base Breakers are available in Light and Dark Ash shades that lift up to one level in just five minutes. Best of all: All Simply Blonde products are formulated to be used with Kenra Color 10V-40V
Protect hair throughout the lightening and colouring process with Oligo Professionnel’s Blacklight SMART Collection. This new four-piece regimen is designed to help protect, detoxify, repair and strengthen hair before and after chemical treatments. Suitable for all hair types and textures, Oligo’s Blacklight SMART collection builds bonds while purifying the scalp. Plus, it contains more than 90 per cent naturally derived ingredients and is free from silicones, sulfates and parabens! The professionalonly SMART Bond Protection and Strengthening Concentrate can be used as a standalone product or additive to a chemical treatment. The SMART Bond Builder and Repair Treatment helps to build new and repair existing internal bonds linkages to nourish hair and replenish lipids. The SMART Purifying Shampoo is available in two formulas (one for professional use and one for client use) to purify the hair and scalp from chemical residues and toxins. The professional version contains impurity detection technology (IDT), which changes colour when the hair needs to be detoxified, and the SMART Repair Conditioner repairs damage.
Ready for Red Get your clients ready for fall with the latest Faction8 shades from Pulp Riot. Ideal for clients who are looking for a bold and intense red-violet look, these four permanent shades are now available in a .55 series, which is a blend of rich reds with a violet undertone. The shades include 4.55, 5.55, 6.55 and 7.55, and are all formulated in a creamy consistency that provides a seamless blend and 100 per cent grey coverage, and will leave your clients’ hair vibrant and shiny. Plus, the shades can also be used as a demi-permanent for glossing and toning to provide ultra-visible reflects—even on dark bases!
We’ve rounded up some of the most eye-catching nail looks from autumn/winter 2022 Fashion Week to help inspire your clients’ manicures this season. All In The Details
BYE-BYE DUST! Keep your workspace clean with Gelish’s VORTEX Portable Nail Dust Collector. While dust in the salon is a common concern amongst nail techs, the new Gelish VORTEX Portable Nail Dust Collector collects airborne dust to help keep their space (and the air) cleaner. Featuring a compact design that measures just over two inches high, VORTEX doesn’t require an excessive amount of space to avoid clutter, all the while providing quiet yet e ective dust removal. With both plug-in and portable power capabilities, 4300 RPM of power, as well as an advanced circuity that will ensure consistent power levels while in battery mode, VORTEX can help nail artists reduce dust exposure and prevent allergy flare-ups, keeping both themselves and their clients safe and comfortable during appointments—both in the salon and on the go.
1 Julie Kandalec used CND Vinylux to create red, vampire-inspired nails for The Blonds show at New York Fashion Week (NYFW).
CND Skipping Stones from the In Fall Bloom collection is the perfect soft grey with taupe undertones. OPI Get your clients ready for all their fall festivities with Brown to Earth, a dark tone from the Fall Wonders collection. Gelish Keep it classic this season with Wool You Love Me?, a dusty sand from the Plaid Reputation collection.
4 For London Fashion Week’s Simone Rocha show, Ama Quashie added a unique touch by creating crystal clear water bubble nails.
Hairlines NAILS—
salonmagazine.ca / September 2022 23
Artistic Nail Design Get ready for crisp fall days with From AM to PM, a chocolate brown from the Cover Me Head to Toe collection.
2 Also at NYFW, editorial manicurist Jin Soon Choi designed minimalistic half-moons for a modern take on a classic neutral nail.
STAY NEUTRAL 41 52 63 FASHION WEEK NAILS
ORLY Add some sparkle to your clients’ steps this season with the Surrealist collection, featuring shimmery burgundy Stop the Clock.
3 For the Christian Siriano show at NYFW, Gina Edwards created blue monochromic nails using OPI polish.
5 For the Markarian show at NYFW, Edwards created vintage, 1930s-inspired nails and finished off the look by adorning them with pearls. 6 Edwards took bold black nails to the next level by adding holographic crystal embellishments for the Alice + Olivia show at NYFW.
Wella EIMI Boost Bounce Curls took NYFW by storm at the Christian Cowan show!
Oribe Foundation Mist
GemsGlamourous Moroccanoil Strong Hold Gel
GET INSPIRED BY THESE FASHION WEEK HAIR TRENDS SO YOU CAN CREATE SHOW-STOPPING STYLES FOR YOUR CLIENTS—FOR ANY OCCASION! 24 salonmagazine.ca / September 2022
Wet Runway&Ready
GARDENOLIVIAGHD,AMIKA,PROFESSIONALS,WELLAMOROCCANOIL,ORIBE,INSTAGRAM,PHOTOS:
The “wet” look is still here and was hotter than ever at the Altuzarra show at NYFW. Oribe global ambassador and hairstylist James Pecis used the brand’s Foundation Mist to make the models look as if they just took a dip in the ocean, and added some strands across their foreheads for a more undone finish.
The trend of adding gems to hair and makeup looks has been all over social media, and for the Bronx & Banco show at NYFW, Moroccanoil’s global artistic director Kevin Hughes, took it to the next level. Inspired by 1980s glam and a night in Paris, Hughes created a side or centre part and slicked the models’ hair down with the brand’s Strong Hold Gel to create a high-shine look. The finishing touch was achieved by adding gems along the part.
Hairlines REPORTTREND—
Fashion Autumn/WinterWeek:
2022
Wella Professionals’ North American ambassador Briana Cisneros used the brand’s EIMI Boost Bounce to define curls and give them even more volume and shine.
Boost Your Curl
Hairlines REPORTTREND—
Lead stylist Matthew Curtis put his own twist on “business in the front, party in the back” for the Hardware London show at NYFW. Starting with the brand’s Ceramic + Ion Blow Dryer, Curtis blow-dried the model’s hair straight with a centre part and then smoothed the hair with Olivia Garden’s Ceramic + Ion Flat Iron. He separated it into multiple sections and completed the look by twisting the sections before securing with an elastic.
WavesMaking ghd Curve Thin Wand With Old-Hollywood waves being a timeless trend on the red carpet, at Rixo’s show at London Fashion Week (LFW), ghd trade ambassador James Earnshaw paid homage to 1920s classic waves but added a texture twist for a more modern take. He used the brand’s Curve Thin Wand to curl model’s hair away from their face and pinned each wave in place to create more definition.
salonmagazine.cadefinition./September
Olivia FlatBlowCeramicGarden+IonDryerandIron
ItTwistUp
It was all about volume at Sergio Hudson’s show at New York Fashion Week (NYFW)! After curling and brushing out the hair, Naeemah Lafond, amika’s global artistic director, finished the sleek portion with the brand’s Top Gloss Shine Spray to give the statement ponytails all the spotlight.
Sleek PonytailsVoluminousand amika Top Gloss Shine Spray
2022 25
Hairlines SHORTCUTS— ColourCroppedREFINEYOURLIGHTENING,FOILINGANDCOLOURINGSKILLSFORSHORTERHAIRWITHEXPERTTIPSTHATARESURETOTAKEYOURRESULTSTOTHENEXTLEVEL. ➣ Whether it’s partly due to the pandemic or just another reminder that trends come full circle, shorter hairstyles—such as the pixie and bixie, bob and lob and more—have been on the rise (for all genders) as of Whilelate.mastering the cut is critical for these looks, it’s also just as important to utilize the right colouring techniques that are specific to short hair. In doing so, you can enhance these cuts and ensure your clients get the most out of their colour services. “With these short styles, we have a lot of opportunity to make more of a statement and use fun tones,” says Suzanne Lalonde, a Calgary-based hairstylist at Scruples Hair Design and brand education specialist for Revlon Professional. “If you’re working with hair with more length, you’re probably going to go for a deeper root, which gives a little more dimension because it’s focusing on the ends of the hair. With a pixie cut, you want to give a lot of wow factor to the hair with the colour you choose.”
26 salonmagazine.ca / September 2022
PRO TIP
TOKEEPINGSUGGESTSBENARIACPHOTOSOFNEWCOLOURTRENDSTHATINSPIREYOUANDSHOWINGTHEMYOURCLIENTS.THISWAY,THEYCANCHOOSEWHATITISTHEYWANTOUTOFTHEIRSERVICEWHILEALSOBEINGAWAREOFWHAT’STRENDING.
“I think men should be talked into a colour that fades o rather than grows out. When colouring our male clients’ hair, I feel that most gravitate to blonde, so using a shoeshine technique [when you put lightener on a piece of foil and slide it back and forth to lighten only the tips of hair] works great. Using this technique ensures that every visit to the salon is a cut and colour service.”
— Tina Batchelor, national educator for John Paul Mitchell Systems and owner of Tina & Co Hair Studio, Stoney Creek, Ont.
When it comes to lightening, foiling and colouring hair, yes, there are some techniques that are universal, however there are also some that differ based on the hair’s length. “When you’re colouring short hair, you have less [hair] to work with, so the application needs to be very specific and precise,” says Lalonde. “You’re probably emphasizing one of your client’s features so you’re dealing with precision, which is no different from cutting short hair. There’s very little room for error; not that we hide error in long hair but there’s a very small window of opportunity when dealing with shorter hair so your application must be pristine and accurate.”
“Typically, men are not as informed as women about hair colour and products, which means we must inform and educate them about what they have to do at home before and after the colour. It’s likely they won’t want to come back to the salon every month or few months unless they are walked through the process and explained the benefits.”
— Joris Benariac, educator for L’Oréal Professionnel, Montreal
“I have success with men in my chair when I do things in small steps. Small things, small actions and small changes! I show them what we’re going to do or suggest things to them little by little to build trust with them. I find that it works wonders.”
Foiling Frenzy While some people may not gravitate towards foiling for shorter hair, Tina Batchelor, a national educator for John Paul Mitchell Systems, and owner of Tina & Co Hair Studio in Stoney Creek, Ont., says it’s a great option for shorter styles because it creates an effortlessly natural look. However, being extra conscious of your placement is “Ikey.love foiling shorter hair with more of a teasing look so there’s no hard line and it looks more natural, but placement is huge,” she says. “Longer lengths give you more room to work whereas shorter hair tends to challenge our skills. Using a good lightener is also key since some will swell and leave bleeding in the hair.”
PÉREZ,LULÚMAKEUP:SPAIN,PELUQUEROS,BUENORAFAELBUENO,RAFAELHAIR:PHOTOS:CHAZONOFF,SAMITEXT: &HAIROUTHEADINGBIASE,DICATERINAHAIR:ZALDÍVAR;ALBERTOPHOTO:CALAFA,ÁLVAROSTYLING:WARDROBE O’TOOLEANDREWPHOTO:CAPON,ANTHONYSTYLING:WARDROBEMARTIN,RUBYSHELLAMAKEUP:AUSTRALIA,BEAUTY,
“It also depends on the impact you’re looking to make,” adds Lalonde. “If you want to make a bold statement, it’s the direction of the placement of your foils you’re going to want to focus on. I use foils for slicing, weaving or traditional balayage techniques. If I want my overall colour to be very impactful—when dealing with an undercut, for example—my primary focus would be to make sure the undercut is slightly deeper so you can really see the colour.”
Making The Sale Since men are often considered to be a tougher sell for in-salon colour yet are more loyal to their hair products (and stylists!), here are some tips on how to maximize your services.
While it’s usually recommended to cut hair after colouring it, it’s the opposite when working with short“It’sstyles.veryimportant to start with the cut so you can place the lightener afterwards,” says Joris Benariac, a Montreal-based educator for L’Oréal Professionnel. “I suggest playing with two colours in short hair: Darker on the roots and lighter on the rest. Do some balayage on the top and in the front (like the sun would do naturally), just one tone lighter. This way, you’ll create a nice, natural contrast and from there you can play with different colours.”
Less is More… Work?
BOLDERLALONDERECEDINGTHINNINGWITHORHAIR,SUGGESTSOPTINGFORAFINERWEAVEPLACEMENTINSTEADOFAAPPLICATIONTOAVOIDDRAWINGATTENTIONTOANYPROBLEMAREAS.
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— Suzanne Lalonde, brand education specialist for Revlon Professional and hairstylist at Scruples Hair Design, Calgary
— SUZANNE LALONDE, BRAND EDUCATION SPECIALIST FOR REVLON PROFESSIONAL, AND HAIRSTYLIST AT SCRUPLES HAIR DESIGN, CALGARY PRO-TIP FOR CLIENTS
“IF YOU’RE NOT CHOOSING THE RIGHT TONE, ADDING DIMENSION OR PLACING YOUR FOILS PROPERLY, YOU’RE NOT GIVING YOUR CLIENTS SUITABILITY, WHICH MEANS YOU’RE DOING THEM A DISSERVICE.”
customizedWithCoolaresurgenceofwarmercoloursbutanever-growingdemandforcoolershades,learnexperttipstohelpyougetcreativewithyourcolourportfolio.Plus,howtocombinetonestocreateamoreresult.
Warm vs.
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As with haircuts and styles, colour trends are often cyclical—shifting from warm to cool shades. And for the last couple of years, we’ve seen a return to warmer tones and a departure from icy and ash tones. “I think part of it is due to the fact that a lot of the styles in fashion right now are retro-inspired from the ’70s and ’80s, and the warmer colour trends were PRO TIP CONSIDER USING NEUTRAL TONES FOR “DIFFICULT” CLIENTS EG. THOSE WHO DON’T WANT TO SEE GREY OR YELLOW IN BLONDE. more prevalent then,” says Amanda Portelance, a Vancouver-based educator for Goldwell and colour specialist at Avant Garde Hair Studio. “We always see an ebb and flow between the tones. Plus, colour trends have been greatly affected by the pandemic with more people looking for lowmaintenance, natural-looking colour; not everybody has the skin tone for ashier shades.”Wechecked in with the experts for their take on this season’s trends, and for their tips on getting more creative with hair colour.
“REMEMBER: NATURE ALWAYS
— Ilona Garson, owner of Jet Black Hair & Studio in Ottawa and 2023 Elite Artist winner of Wella’s Beauty Envision Awards ➤
“Pink isn’t going anywhere. Pinkish blonde, peachy and coral are going to continue to be big.”
EAMESJACKPHOTO:MORRISON,ROBERTSTYLING:WARDROBENGUYEN-GREALIS,LANU.K.,TEAM,ARTISTICRUSHHAIR:PHOTOS: 1.Blondes
“Colour blocking is huge; chunky, stripey and blocky colour. Within that, there may be some transitions happening with pixelating or marbling within that shade. Since you’re not working with the same colour for the entire head, having a smaller space to work in allows for more creativity.”
— Tania Lacoste Major, elite colour professional for Moroccanoil and owner of Atelier Major, Montreal “I think we’ll start to see a shift for the fall. As clients get out of the sun, they can maintain cool blonde tones a bit easier, so I think we’ll start seeing cooler and pearl tones coming back in the fall/winter. Some people want to go back to highmaintenance colour and feel that excitement of having fresh, EnvisionwinnerOttawaJet—colourexpensive-lookingagain.”IlonaGarson,ownerofBlackHair&Studioinand2023EliteArtistofWella’sBeautyAwards
— Bryanne Dyrland, an educator for #mydentity and owner of Street Style West of the 5th, Eckville, Alta.
“Clients are more open to warmer shades because they understand that there’s a very big difference between having yellowish blonde hair and gold, rich, buttery blonde hair, but it comes down to the knowledge we share with clients on how to maintain their colour at home.”
salonmagazine.ca / September 2022 29
RIGHT. IF YOU’RE TRYING TO FIGURE OUT A DON’TCOMBINATION—WHETHERCOLOURITBEACOMPLIMENTARYORCONTRASTINGONE—BEAFRAIDTOLOOKTONATUREANDSEEHOWTHOSECOLOURSPAIRTOGETHER.”
— Bryanne Dyrland, educator for #mydentity and owner of Street Style West of the 5th, Eckville, Alta.
“We’re starting to see warmer, more buttery and creamier blondes.”
— Tania Lacoste Major, elite colour professional for Moroccanoil and owner of Atelier Major, Montreal “People still want easy, lived-in colour but they want to have fun with it. I’m noticing a lot of people are wanting to venture into fashion colours; asking for pops of it, especially jewel tones like teal and purple. I’m also seeing a lot of violets and sapphire blues. Plus, little hints of neon for fashion colours.”
— Tania Lacoste Major, elite colour professional for Moroccanoil and owner of Atelier Major, Montreal “A huge technique right now is airbrushing—using a blowdryer instead of a tailcomb to blow out the little hairs, and lighten the strands that are left in your hand. It’s another way to get teasylights without teasing the hair. People will still gravitate to cooler and warmer blondes, but airbrushing gives a nice blend so you can transition from a full head of bleachand-tone blondes—since everyone wants lowlights and shadow roots in the fall—so airbrushing creates a more diffused look.”
— Amanda Portelance, Goldwell educator and colour specialist at Avant Garde Hair Studio, Vancouver “The oat milk blonde trend is everything right now. It’s a mix of naturals and golds, so it’s not too cool and not too warm. It’s very welcoming and super-nice around facial features. Also, mushroom blonde is still big. For the fall, it’s nice to keep warmth in GETS IT
— Ilona Garson, owner of Jet Black Hair & Studio in Ottawa and 2023 Elite Artist winner of Wella’s Beauty Envision “Colour-blockingAwards is one of the biggest colour trends and probably my number one technique that I use. I’ve done it in a pinwheel formation—triangular sections— and it can start from any pivot point on their head, and most of the time I go from the crown so it creates a veil of colour so each triangular section is going to be a different shade. I also love doing quadrants with square blocks of colour, based on where they part their hair, and everything is done like a checkerboard formation with fashion colours and more subdued shades that are two levels apart.”
— AMANDA PORTELANCE, GOLDWELL EDUCATOR AND COLOUR SPECIALIST AT AVANT GARDE HAIR STUDIO, VANCOUVER Fashion Forward the hair to feel more alive.”
2.
YOUNGMICHAELPHOTO:MARCHIORI,VITARUBINASTYLING:WARDROBEB,KIRSTENMAKEUP:
— TANIA LACOSTE MAJOR, ELITE COLOUR PROFESSIONAL FOR MOROCCANOIL AND OWNER OF ATELIER MAJOR, MONTREAL Brunettes “The expensive brunette trend is holding steady, with more dimension since it’s such a beautiful way for brunettes to show off their brown hair. Remember: Not every brunette wants to be —blonde.”Ilona Garson, owner of Jet Black Hair & Studio in Ottawa and 2023 Elite Artist winner of Wella’s Beauty Envision Awards “Clients learned how to love their natural hair colour [during the pandemic] but they still want to enhance it with something fun or brightness, dimension and —depth.”Tania Lacoste Major, elite colour professional for Moroccanoil and owner of Atelier Major, Montreal “It’s all about adding copper tones to other colours like brunettes, on the ends, etc.”
— Amanda Portelance, Goldwell educator and colour specialist at Avant Garde Hair Studio, Vancouver “I see a lot of coppery brunettes for fall. A cool chocolate beige with some balayage or highlights with some coppery tones.”
— Bryanne Dyrland, an educator for #mydentity and owner of Street Style West of the 5th, Eckville, Alta.
— Tania Lacoste Major, elite colour professional for Moroccanoil and owner of Atelier Major, Montreal “People tend to gravitate toward darker and warmer shades, such as warmer metallics, in the fall.”
30 salonmagazine.ca / September 2022
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“WHEN COMBINING WARM AND COOL TONES, YOU SHOULD REALLY WORK WITH YOUR CLIENT’S SKIN TONE AND NATURAL COLOUR. SOMETIMES, THEY NEED SOMETHING THAT’S WARMER OR COOLER AROUND THE FACE, SO YOU CAN REALLY THINK ABOUT WHERE YOU WANT TO APPLY THOSE TONES.”
With supply chain issues still impacting salons across the country, here’s what to do if you run out of a colour.
“Every colour line has an underlying tone chart, so as long as you know what the underlying pigment is in the colour that you’re out of, you can custom make it with other tones in the line. However, it’s all about understanding the colour wheel, which can be the hardest thing for new colourists. It can take a while so practice is key.”
“When you’re working with natural or creative colours, my rule of thumb is to stick with two cools and a warm, or two warms and a cool, so you have two complimentary colours and a contrasting colour. You can increase up to five colours, but anything more can get a bit muddy.”
— Bryanne Dyrland, an educator for #mydentity and owner of Street Style West of the 5th, Eckville, Alta.
— Tania Lacoste Major, elite colour professional for Moroccanoil and owner of Atelier Major, Montreal “You can mix metallic shades, such as rose golds with silver, but it’s with a certain clientele. Or you can opt for a mushroom brown with a violet base that’s not warm or ash as another way of mixing warm and cool tones.”
PRO TIP WHEN LOOKING AT YOUR CLIENT’S SKIN TONE, CONSIDER SKIN CONDITIONS SUCH AS ROSACEA, SINCE SOME TONES (ESPECIALLY AROUND THE FACE) ENHANCEMAYIT.
— Bryanne Dyrland, an educator for #mydentity and owner of Street Style West of the 5th, Eckville, Alta. hair colour. If you want to incorporate some cool, you can do a 2:1 ratio of warm to cool for someone who has a warmer skin tone, and a 2:1 ratio of cool to warm for someone with a cooler skin tone. Combining the two creates a more bespoke look—whether it’s a cooler pop around the face or on the ends of the hair. It’s about finding the right balance with the tones you use.”
“Don’t fall into a comfort zone. Maintaining a good inventory with back-ups can be a big investment but it’s worth it. With that said, it’s also important to take time at the beginning of every appointment—even if you’re doing the same client for 10 years—to ask if they want a change or anything. That way, you’re going to be motivated to use the whole portfolio so you can really play with colour.”
— Ilona Garson, owner of Jet Black Hair & Studio in Ottawa and 2023 Elite Artist winner of Wella’s Beauty Envision Awards “We all have those clients who went for those heavy blonde services in the summer, so for fall they want a reverse balayage. I love to keep the blondes very warm and to add some lowlights on the cooler side.”
salonmagazine.ca / September 2022 31
— Ilona Garson, owner of Jet Black Hair & Studio in Ottawa and 2023 Elite Artist winner of Wella’s Beauty Envision Awards
Thinking Outside the Box
— Tania Lacoste Major, elite colour professional for Moroccanoil and owner of Atelier Major, Montreal “If you run out of a colour, you can still make shades out of others. For example, create a six by mixing a seven and a five. However, be transparent with your client and see it as an opportunity instead of an obstacle.”
— Amanda Portelance, Goldwell educator and colour specialist at Avant Garde Hair Studio, Vancouver “If I’m working with a warmer canvas, I love to utilize BGs (Golden Blondes). They’re such well-balanced shades and suit so many different skin tones. Since they’re a sandy, beautiful beige, you’re just going to enhance a warmer or cooler shade, which is great for creating lowlights or shadow —roots.”Tania Lacoste Major, elite colour professional for Moroccanoil and owner of Atelier Major, Montreal “If they have a warm skin tone, they’re naturally going to look better with warmer
3.CombiningWarmandCool
GIAMATTEI,MARCUSHAIR:JOICO,FORSPILLERDAN&WATTSPAULCOLOUR:PHOTOS: BLANSHARD;JAMIEPHOTOS:SPILLER,ELLENSTYLING:WARDROBEMOORE,KATIEMAKEUP: PROFESSIONALSCHWARZKOPFREDKEN,MATRIX,PROFESSIONAL,KENRAJOICO,
Looking to pick up the pace with your colour services? Get to know these express colour options that will not only help save time, but may also increase revenue.
“SOME STYLISTS THINK THAT BECAUSE THEY AREN’T TAKING AS MUCH TIME, THEY CAN’T CHARGE THEIR NORMAL AMOUNT. IF YOUR CLIENT WANTS THOSE GREYS GONE, THEY’LL PAY WHAT THEY NEED TO.”
— MELISSA DUGUAY, JOICO INTERNATIONAL PLATFORM ARTIST AND STYLIST AT THE SAVVY SHOP IN SCOUDOUC, N.B. favourite products to use; it’s a go-to for me,” says Rossa Jurenas, owner of Studio Rossa in Tillsonburg, Ont., and North American colour director for Schwarzkopf Professional. “It’s great for today’s world because clients are busy and although some will take the time to sit and relax in your chair, there are a lot who don’t have that time. They still want their colour to look great and refreshed but they don’t want to be there for hours on end.”“As for high lifts, they’re all in one,” she adds. “You can apply it to the hair to lighten and tone, and leave it on to work on another client and still be confident in the outcome you’re going to get.”
BY LAUREN FARRUGIA
With many salons having been shut down by the pandemic for months at a time, it should come as no surprise that owners and stylists alike have been trying to fill appointments and make up for lost time. And while the demand for faster services is increasing, protecting hair’s integrity without compromising the final result should also be top of mind, as should maintaining a strong revenue stream despite shorter services. That’s where colour products, such as 10-minute colour and high lifts, come into play. In fact, they may just be the answer to addressing and avoiding those concerns.“10-minute colour is one of my
Colour10-Minute With 10-minute colour options growing in popularity since the arrival of the pandemic, it’s important to understand when it’s best to opt for a 10-minute option versus a standard permanent colour.“The overall service time is going to depend on your application time, but the processing time is 10 minutes, so it’s super fast and very easy to use,” says Jurenas. “I get to know my clientele and what they want so I can book a full day of 10-minute colour services, and all of a sudden I have 15 colour clients in one day!”There’s a common misconception that 10-minute colour can only be used for grey coverage. While it’s a great option for that, there are many other ways you can use the speedy service in your salon. “It’s great for creative colour, a root retouch, low-lighting or as a secondary colour for a highlight,” says Jurenas. “And it works well for face-framing highlights when I’m just going to put in a few around the face but I want it to be multidimensional.”“They’reagreatway to rebalance a
WORK SMARTER, NOT HARDER
32 salonmagazine.ca / September 2022
Available in naturals, extra coverage and fashion ranges, this permanent colour is formulated with Amino Acid Carrier Technology to deliver vibrant and longlasting results.
➤ colour after a service,” adds Mehgan Minor, a Calgary-based stylist and education manager for Kenra Professional. “You can even use it to fix something. It’s a very versatile product that works on all hair types and any client that comes into the salon.”
IgoraSchwarzkopfProfessionalColor10
Not only can 10-minute colour be great for an overall service, but it also makes a perfect add-on to help speed up parts of other services. “If I want to create a shadow root and I’ve done foils already, I’ll go in with a 10-minute colour at the end, create that shadow root quickly and I won’t have to wait for it to process,” says Melissa Duguay, a Joico international platform artist and stylist at the Savvy Shop in Scoudouc, N.B. “When I’m applying a toner at the sink and I notice some areas that need extra colour—for example, if the client has some grey hair they want to cover— I can apply the 10-minute colour very quickly at the sink and allow it all to process at the same time.” “Some of my most dedicated colour clients started with me just trying out a few foils during their haircut, and 10-minute colour is a great way to do that because it’s so fast,” adds Darci Ash stylist, an artistic educator for Matrix and owner of Enigma Salon Studio in Saskatoon. “You can upsell these express services by recommending them as an add-on to a cut or style to inject some dimension.”
ANDONPATTERNS.YOURCHANGINGFOILINGSTARTTHELEFTSIDE,THENEXTTIMETHECLIENTCOMESIN,FLIPTHEFOILPATTERNAROUND.CHANGINGTHEDIRECTIONANDFLOWWILLHELPCHANGEHOWTHEHAIRFALLSANDHOWTHEHIGHLIGHTSWILLLOOK. Lumi10 Formulated with their Quick
Time Is Money Though there are many benefits of using 10-minute colour, there are also a few downsides. Depending on the brand, there may not be as many colour options as a standard colour line.
Joico
PRO TIP TRY
lastingavailablepermanentSystem,Coveragethiscolourisin20shadesandprovideslong-andpredictableresultswithallofthebrand’sLumiShineconditioningandshinebenefits.
KenraStudioProfessionalStylistExpress
Available in 15 shades, this permanent colour range is formulated to protect, nourish and condition the hair while deliveringresults.express Matrix SoColor 10 Min This new permanent colour is pre-bonded and available in 10 shade packettes— with each andpre-mixedfeaturingcolourdeveloper—andit’sformulatedwithanAlkalineBuerSystemtocontroloverprocessing.
Redken Color Gel Lacquers 10 Minute Made with Smart Pause Technology to protect Lacquers,availableoverprocessing,fromthispermanentcolourisina1:1shadematchwithColourGelanditcomesin14shades.
While you may wonder how a faster processing colour can help your business’ bottom line, being able to get clients in and out of your chair more quickly will help contribute to the ways you can increase revenue with this express“Thereservice.isnocompromise on the results, and you get to save anywhere from 20 to 35 minutes on every client,” says Darky St-Cyr, a Redken artist and owner of Volt Face Coiffure in Victoriaville, Que. “The quick processing time allows me to serve more clients in a day, and I can even fit in a colour client on a fully booked day, which is great during busy times of the year like after summer holidays and before Christmas.”
Available in Ice, Pearl and Natural, these creamy formulas provide up to four levels of lift and tone on natural hair in just one step.
PROFESSIONALSCHWARZKOPFREDKEN,PROFESSIONAL,KENRAJOICO,EAMES;JACKPHOTO:
MOORE,KATIEMAKEUP:GIAMATTEI,MARCUSHAIR:JOICO,FORSPILLERDAN&WATTSPAULCOLOUR:
“I know a lot of stylists get nervous with 10-minute colour because the fear is that they’re not going to have the application done on time, and that’s an important aspect to consider,” says Jurenas. “A lot of it is about preplanning that process. You don’t want the colour to get darker or for something unexpected to happen, so if you know you’re going to have your client sitting and waiting for a lot longer because of another client, then you may want to use a different colour.”
34 salonmagazine.ca / September 2022
And while it only takes 10 minutes to process, the colour still requires the same prep and planning as other permanent colour services. The key is not to overprocess the colour.
KenraSimplyProfessionalBlondeUltraLift
Joico Blonde Life Hyper High Lift Permanent Crème Formulated with a built-in hair defense system to strengthen hair, this permanent colour o ers up to five levels of lift while counteracting warmth during the process.lifting
LiftsHigh Another great colour product to add to your express services menu are high lifts. “These are permanent hair colours that are made to be more alkaline,” says St-Cyr. “That difference allows them to lighten more than a regular permanent hair colour, but not as much as a traditional lightener.”
High lifts are a great product to consider for clients who may be concerned about damaging their hair yet are looking to lighten their natural base. They’re also great when a client is in need of a root retouch or a base break without having to use traditional lightener.“Highlifts have the ability to take your natural levels and lift—as well as neutralize—all at once,” says Ash. “For example, if you have a client who is a light brunette, you could bring them
FRITH,CLARESTYLING:WARDROBEMATSUNO,MEGUMIMAKEUP:AFRICA,SOUTHBARBERING,AND
HAIRDRESSINGWYATTMCKAY,CANDICEHAIR:BLANSHARD;JAMIEPHOTOS:SPILLER,ELLENSTYLING:WARDROBE
PRO TIP WHEN USING HIGH LIFTS, MAKE SURE THE CLIENT’S BASE COLOUR ISN’T TOO LIGHT OR YOU COULD END ANDOVERDEPOSITINGUPCREATINGANASHYTONE.
While time is critical, it’s reassuring to know that 10-minute colour is mixed very similarly to other permanent colour products, and its application can be done with any tool you’re most comfortable with. “It will range based on the brand, but I mix it for tone on tone, which is one-part colour to one-and-a-half parts developer, and for permanent grey coverage I do 1:1,” says Ash. “For application, I prefer a bowl and brush because of the control I can get. You definitely could use a bottle, but I really like to have maximum control over the sections I’m working on.”
Redken Blonde Idol Highlift Shades Ideal for levels five to seven, get up to five levels of lift in one step with these eight shades that are available in a conditioning cream base.
“Most 10-minute colour products are progressive, meaning they keep getting darker as you leave them on, so it’s very important to keep it on for 10 minutes and rinse after,” adds Duguay. “They’re usually formulated with a very strong dye load and there’s a lot of pigment because it needs to do its job faster. If you leave it on too long, it can get much darker than intended.”
“You can increase revenue by being able to fit more clients into your day and accommodate last-minute appointments or walk-ins,” adds Minor. “It’s also a great way to convert your clients who only come in for a cut or style, because it allows them to test out colour without having to sit in your chair for a really long time.”
ProfessionalSchwarzkopfIgoraRoyalHighlifts
Available in 12 shades, this range is made with TrueLift Complex to help you achieve a powerful lift on bases seven and eight while counteractingundertones.warm
“It’s not a good idea to bring your colour or lightener right up to the scalp because the heat from the scalp can move the colour or you could get bleeding. You want to get as close as you can while respecting that distance so you can close your foil and move it as needed. A tiny bit of cotton can be really helpful, too. Just put a strip of cotton on top and underneath your foil, which will help the hair, scalp and colour.” — Darci Ash stylist, Matrix artistic educator and owner of Enigma Salon Studio in Saskatoon.
“It’s important not to overload the hair with colour at the regrowth, so feathering the colour (instead of blotting it on) will reduce the chances of swelling and bleeding with both lightener and permanent colour. If you’re doing any type of balayage where you’re feathering the colour in, I always like to tease the regrowth to move the hair around. That way when you’re brushing it out, it’ll marry to the natural colour.” — Melissa Duguay, Joico international platform artist and stylist at the Savvy Shop in Scoudouc, N.B.
“I recommend using high lifts on a level five or lighter because it’s more of a sure thing,” adds Jurenas. “I would use them for things like balayage, highlights and face-framing pieces. You can also use them for a global application but you have to be very careful with what developer you’re using. With high lifts you don’t want to go right to the root, and you want to make sure your developer is lower when you get closer to the scalp. I would recommend it more for micro-lights, babylights and those softerWhenservices.”itcomes to saving time and increasing revenue in the salon, the biggest advantage to using high lifts is that they remove the extra toning step in the lightening process. “You’re skipping the whole toning process, which is going to save you at least 30 to 45 minutes per client,” says Minor. “The processing time is also a bit shorter than other lighteners and is only about 40 to 45 minutes, which helps you get through clients faster.” “You can leave the high lift and don’t have to watch it as closely as you would another lightening product,” adds Jurenas. “You can use that time to work on another client, do book work or even inventory.” Failproof Foiling
“To prevent foils from slipping, I always work with very thin sections of hair to allow the product to penetrate and stick to the other side of the foil. Because the strand is thin, you don’t need a lot of product, which will make the foil a lot lighter and reduce the chances of slipping. I also like to fold the foil strands in three (lengthwise) for better control.”
“Make sure you’re measuring when you’re mixing. Use a scale and mix according to the manufacturer’s recommendations, which will generally reduce the chances of slipping and swelling. Also, be sure to shake your lightener container regularly because sometimes ingredients can settle and separate, and then you aren’t getting the right ingredients in your bowl.” — Mehgan Minor, Calgary-based stylist and education manager for Kenra Professional
salonmagazine.ca / September 2022 35
“I THINK A LOT OF STYLISTS ARE INTIMIDATED BY HIGH LIFTS BECAUSE THEY DON’T FULLY UNDERSTAND HOW THE UNDERLYING PIGMENT NEUTRALIZATION WORKS, SO THEY DON’T FORMULATE CORRECTLY AND STOP USING THEM. IT TAKES PRACTICE AND KNOWLEDGE, WHICH IS WHY I REALLY ENCOURAGE EDUCATION.”
— MEHGAN MINOR, CALGARY-BASED STYLIST AND EDUCATION MANAGER FOR KENRA PROFESSIONAL up to a beautiful beige-blonde in just one step.” Typically, you can achieve a maximum of four or five levels of lift, depending on the product and brand. Since high lifts allow you to lift and tone all in one step, they make the lightening process faster and more cost-effective. However, it’s important to ensure your client’s hair is a good fit for the product before doing so. “You can use high lifts on natural, non-colour treated hair because the rule of thumb is that colour doesn’t lift colour,” says Ash. “If you apply high lifts on hair that has already been lightened, you will create more damage than you need to. I have quite a few clients who want to be blonde, but not everyone wants to be white blonde, platinum or ashy. Some of my clients like to stay in that honey stage, so high lifts are great for those clients that are darker blonde going into the brunettes who want to see that warmth in their hair.”
Check out these expert tips and tricks on how you can avoid common mistakes when foiling.
— Darky St-Cyr, stylist. Redken artist and owner of Volt Face Coiffure in Victoriaville, Que.
Behind the Scenes with Moroccanoil!
ScenestheBehind —
36 salonmagazine.ca / September 2022
PHOTOS: SALON STAFF
The team worked out of Lisa Dinh Hair Studio in Toronto to create and prep the looks, which featured lived-in coral and coppery red to platinum and highcontrast blonde.
Shot exclusively for Salon, the shoot included bold effect.colour-blockingtexturesvibrantfeaturedJohnstylingwardrobebyMarkTrippandamixofhuesandwitha
For Salon’s September 2022 cover shoot, we partnered with Moroccanoil to showcase colour trends that have been brought to life with the brand’s new Professional Haircolor collection. “The inspiration for the shoot was the middle of winter when it’s so cold but then you get a beautiful, sunny day where the sun hits you,” says Kevin Hughes, global artistic director for Moroccanoil. “Even though it’s a fall/winter shoot, we wanted to make sure all of these looks had bold jewel and pastel colours going on, with colour blocking to really make the hair stand out.”
For| the love of beauty: Makeup artist Wendy Rorong created statement eye looks to complement the bold wardrobe, but kept the rest of the makeup minimal to enhance the models’ natural beauty.
Double duty! For Dudley’s model, the team was inspired to create two looks, including one to showcase the model’s natural texture.
Photographer| Renata Kaveh encouraged the models to let loose and show off their personalities.
Led by global artistic director Kevin basedworkshoottheHughes,coverfeaturedfromLisaDinh,colourambassadorandToronto-colourist,alongwithTexas-basededucatorTatianaDudley.
Demonstrating the versatility of Moroccanoil’s Professional Haircolor, global artistic director Kevin Hughes worked alongside colour ambassador Lisa Dinh and educator Tatiana Dudley to create a vivacious collection of looks that celebrate DREAMINGandindividualityfreedomofexpression.INCOLOUR
38 salonmagazine.ca / September 2022 Collections COLOURINDREAMING—
HAIR Kevin Hughes, Lisa Dinh & Tatiana Dudley for Moroccanoil
MAKEUP Wendy Rorong WARDROBE STYLING Mark John Tripp Renata Kaveh
PHOTOS
40 salonmagazine.ca / September 2022 Collections COLOURINDREAMING— For the list of colour formulas from this cover shoot, visit SalonMagazine.ca
42 salonmagazine.ca / September 2022 Collections ONEAREWE— playfulplacementboldcollectionthisindividuality,expressionfreedomCelebratingofandCanadianfeaturescolourandstyling. CONTESSA 2022 FINALIST, CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST Rodrigo Araneda, Olab par Rodrigo, Montreal MAKEUP Marie Laure Larieu WARDROBE STYLING Florence O Durand PHOTOS Leda & St-Jacques
44 salonmagazine.ca / September 2022 Collections VACANCYNO— From colour blocking to colour melting, this Australian placementsshowcasescollectionarangeofmasterfulshadeonavarietyofhairlengthsandcuts. HAIR Bernadette Beswick, Beswick Education Services, Australia COLOUR Stevie English MAKEUP Chereine Waddell WARDROBE STYLING Jessica Jade PHOTOS Andrew O’Toole
46 salonmagazine.ca / September 2022 Collections COSMOSTIQUEMY— Space cowboy style meets a rock ‘n’ roll aesthetic in this collection.grungecolourfulAustralian HAIR Masci Hair Team, Australia MAKEUP Kylie O’Toole WARDROBE STYLING Leroy Lorenzo PHOTOS Andrew O’Toole
48 salonmagazine.ca / September 2022 Collections MAGICTIFACETEDMUL— This captivatingforcolourwithboldcombinescollectionCanadianstrikingshadesmasterfulplacementarangeoflooks. CONTESSA 2022 FINALIST, MASTER COLOURIST Joan Novak, JoNo Hair, Whistler, B.C. MAKEUP Jana Bizzarri WARDROBE STYLING & PHOTOS Joan Novak
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GalleryContessa
Colour Is Key For her 2022 Contessa collection for Atlantic Hairstylist, the Sydney, N.S.based stylist emphasized her colour mastery with fashion hues. She decided to choose one colour for each look as her main focus and built the look around it.
Talk of the Town Being from a small town, Head says that competing in the Contessas has been the talk of her community. “My clients regularly ask me what I’m up to and they always love to hear about what competitions I’m entering,” she adds. “People see what I’m doing in our local newspaper and they want to come in because of it. Competing and putting yourself out there is great for bringing in new clients.”
HAIRSTYLISTATLANTICFINALIST,2022CONTESSA—
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N.S.,SYDNEY,SALON,HAIRFAMILYALMA’SHEAD,ALMAHAIR:FARRUGIA,LAURENTEXT: RATCHFORDJOHNPHOTOS:HEAD,ALMAWARDROBE:MCNEIL,JESSICAMAKEUP:
“For fashion colours, I pick how many colours I want to add to the look and decide if I want them to be brighter or more pastel,” she says. “Once I decide on that, I start with my base and decide on what techniques I want to add; if I want to do a drop-shadow look or faceframing pieces, etc. I also look at the model’s eyes to see if they have a warm or cool colour, and that will help me make my decisions.”
Alma Head Although Alma Head was quite apprehensive about starting her competition journey at the beginning of her career—more than 30 years ago— competing has now become second nature to her. “We can all easily make excuses as to why we don’t want to compete, but you just have to do it,” she says. “If you don’t [win] that year, you try even harder the next year and push yourself even further.”Asfor how she prepares for competitive events, Head always tries to think about how she wants others to view her collection. “When I enter competitions, I always try to do something a little different,” she says.
“For this collection, I wanted a look that would really stand out so I did the lime green and paired it with pink to have a disconnection between the two colours,” she adds. “I rarely ever use just one shade. I’ll throw in tons of colour to see what I can make, and before I work on my models for a collection I’ll test out a bunch of colours for a week or so. I start with an idea in my head and keep adding shades into the bowl until I find the match I’m looking for.”
“When I get ready for the Contessas and create my collections, I get an image of what story I want to tell. I want people who see my collections to think that they should be up on a wall or on the cover of a magazine.”
“If somethingstandwantyoutoout,youhavetododifferent.”
Knowing His Worth From his small-town salon in Ohio to making it big in Beverly Hills, celebrity colourist J Ladner leads with confidence— and he encourages others to do the same.
Tell me about how you got your start in hairdressing. Did you always know you wanted to be a hairstylist? When I was growing up, I was always the black sheep in my family. When I got out of high school, I started performing at Busch Gardens as a dancer. I’ve always been performing, but I ended up getting injured so I started working in a costume shop that made wigs. The head costume shop woman really encouraged me, so I ended up going to the Paul Mitchell school in Tampa (where I’m from) in 2009/2010, and that’s when my life changed forever. My husband was on active duty in the military for the Air Force, so we moved around a lot. When I met him in Tampa, I was working with an amazing man, Alan Kemp, who was my first mentor and showed me what it took to run a salon. After a year and a half, my husband and I moved to North Dakota, and I managed a salon for two years. By the time we moved to Dayton, Ohio, I had four years under my belt. I start looking around at salons and I thought I could create a different vibe for a salon in the Midwest. I told my husband I was going to open a salon and six weeks later, my 500-square-foot space was open. We built it from nothing, and a year later we expanded to over 3,000 square feet. We owned it for seven years, and then all of a sudden, I was travelling and working with brands. I was absent from the salon a lot, so I decided to move to Los Angeles in 2018.
What do you most enjoy about working with hair colour? The people! I just love connecting with fellow humans and I love that we are licensed to touch, to guide, to lead, to do.
What are some of the colour trends you’re seeing right now? I think balayage is coming back because we want a softer grow-out, but with bolder placement. Instead of traditional balayage that’s gradient, we’re being more mindful in the way we paint those sections so those ribbons of colour are coming back. It’s fun because it’s a different twist. It’s up to the root and
Who are some of your mentors in the industry? Alan Kemp was my first mentor, and he was so amazing. He just passed away a couple of months ago. Nina Kovner of Passion Squared has been a mentor for me throughout my whole journey. She really encouraged me to move to L.A.
54 salonmagazine.ca / September 2022
It must have been a big change, moving from Ohio to Los Angeles. Was it challenging at all? I think I set myself up for success. Before I moved, I was going back and forth between Los Angeles and Ohio a week at a time to build my clientele. What was your experience like during the pandemic? I think it actually brought the industry— as individuals and artists—closer. We got over the fact that we couldn’t open up and we did something about it. There was free education, classes on Zoom, collaborations, etc. I think I met people online that I never would have met if the pandemic never happened. Even though it was a rough time, I made sure I stepped up because I think it’s cool that I get to do what I do, and I don’t take it for granted. I also launched an education course that was all about placement and patterns and working more efficiently, because I knew our clients were going to be backlogged. All of our guests have special relationships with their stylists, so somebody is going to take it personally. Also, our guests got smarter than ever, so I started doing a lot more work in education to work my chair more efficiently.Takingyour business seriously with a coach or a lawyer, and making sure all of your systems and protocols are set, is important. I think owners and managers finally had a moment to really dig deep into their business. I had to get an accountability partner and I still to this day have coaches and mentors.
Victor ValVerde is also another one of myI’vementors.beenmentoring my best friend, Nina Tulio. We do a podcast together called No Stylist Left Behind. We talk about life and business, and how to create a safe space for the next generation of stylists. It’s unedited, raw, emotional and fun conversations about life, business and ourselves with industry leaders and iconic humans—people who are making waves and stepping out.
One thing for me when it came to colour was that there’s unlimited opportunities, especially as the world of manufacturing and product development gets better. How you can change someone’s identity or just enhance their hair colour— whatever the guest wants to do—is amazing.WhenI think about placement and patterns, it’s like building a house with varied shapes and architectural options. You can always switch it up, so you don’t have to fully commit to it.
FASTFOILSLADNER,JPHOTOS:
leProfi LADNERJ–
BY VERONICA BOODHAN
that’s all about placement and pattern education with specific cities around the world. There’s inclusion and texture, as well as different tones, placements and patterns because Ben understands that, as a hairstylist and salon owner, education leads the way. What advice would you give to your younger self or to new stylists and colourists? A closed mouth never gets fed, and no one knows who you are until you tell them. Speak up, get a mentor and seek knowledge first. The smartest one in the room is always the one that’s observing. The most you’ll ever learn is what is not being said.
Why do you think having a digital presence is so important for stylists and colourists today? That's where our guests live. I think it's a non-negotiable in our business since it’s our calling card. You can start by doing before-and-afters with quick video clips. It’s a lot of pressure but you just need to put in the time and create space for it.
salonmagazine.ca / September 2022 55
we’re balayaging those panels in so it will give our guests more longevity. Also, reflective, warm and golden. More of my guests want more reflection, which I love because hair looks more luxurious and healthier so you get that reflective, bouncy, Hollywood hair. You’re the digital creative director for Oligo Professionnel. Tell us about that and what you most enjoy about it? I’m having the best time with them! I love their family, products and brand. A lot of people look to me so I want to make sure they’re set up to win. I started with Oligo as a brand ambassador. In the beginning of my career, I was always around creative directors. As I was growing my brand, my dream was to be a creative director because that’s where I could really make an impact with more knowledge, clarity on formula, etc. Oligo offered me the position of digital creative director and I’ve launched two collaborative colour collections with them—from the formula to the story to the placement to the branding to the models. My whole career has led me up to this position. I also coach their influencer team and I’m in the background to help bring new innovation and product to market through press and education.
I fell in love with the product because it performs; it’s 25 per cent more efficient with a lower developer. When they approached me nearly two years ago, they didn’t have an 8 x 10 [sized foil]. I told Ben [Barkworth, the founder] that I use wider sections for my placement and patterns, so I needed an 8 x 10 foil if I was going to commit.
You’re also the director of education for FastFoils—another Canadian company! What has that been like? FastFoils has shook my soul. It’s the people behind it but also the product.
Six months later, they sent me a package with 8 x 10 foils, and I told Ben I was all theirs, since it showed me that they were willing to adapt and evolve at any second to create what needs to be created for the industry.Forthe last year, we’ve been working hard at getting the brand awareness. We created a six-model editorial collection
J Ladner has co-created colour and collections,editorialincluding the "Toronto" look (below) for FastFoils, which features a high-power blonde with a modern take on the mullet.
Everett also believes being transparent is key and can help limit objection from
CheckPrice With some salon owners and stylists concerned about increasing their prices and losing clientele, we’ve gathered tips for effectively charging for your colour services.
Honesty Is The Best Policy
The Price Is Right While Funk believes that charging depends on the individual colourist— especially for quick colour services, since the costs are more ambiguous—she uses a pricing system she highly recommends. “The system I use is having a thorough intake process,” she says. “We have a consultation for all of our clients, which
56 salonmagazine.ca / September 2022 Business
When trying to build a relationship and loyalty with your clients, it all comes down to trust. Whether it be when giving them a haircut, suggesting a new colour and even when (or especially when) it’s time for them to pay their bill. “A lot of people have an issue with dishonesty,” says Funk. “Because of this, my pricing comes down to an hourly rate. Instead of getting overwhelmed by what the cost of an appointment would be, I break it down to a system. After my consultation and intake form, I quote hourly. I like to keep it simple and lead with integrity. I never want a guest to come in and question me about what they pay and what I charge. I think that’s where stylists start losing clients—when they’re not being upfront and honest about their pricing.”
While colour contracts aren’t new, they remain intimidating to some colourists and stylists who may be concerned about scaring off potential clients. However, they provide a layer of protection and peace of mind that shouldn’t be dismissed.ForJason Everett, co-founder of High Performance Salon Academy in Roseville, California, he swears by a different approach. “Whether it be colour corrections or root touch-ups, every price should be set up by the profitability of the service in question,” he says. “Inside our academy, we teach something called Genesis Budget, which is a budgeting system that lets you see the cost of every item you sell to make sure you’re charging the appropriate price so your business can become profitable.”
IMAGESGETTYPHOTO:CHAZONOFF,SAMITEXT:
PRO-TIP EVERETT SAYS WARNING CLIENTS ABOUT PRICE INCREASES IN ADVANCE CAN GIVE THEM A REASON TO CHALLENGE OR QUESTION YOUR PRICING. INSTEAD, CONSIDER HAVING A LOGICAL EXPLANATION READY WHEN THEY ASK. HE SAYS THE NUMBER ONE REASON CLIENTS LEAVE A SALON IS BECAUSE THEY ARE GIVEN A POOR EXPLANATION ABOUT A PRICE INCREASE. is a great opportunity to get to know one another and decide if it’s a good fit. During that appointment, we provide a client intake form that a lawyer drew up for us, which stipulates that the client is paying for our time, and results are not guaranteed. The form sets an expectation and standard of excellence that states what they owe us for but also ensures they know that we’re going to make sure they leave happy.”
With so many factors to consider when determining your prices—including the time/duration of the service, the stylist’s level of expertise, amount of product used, amount of work/effort involved, etc.—at the end of the day, it’s up to the individual salon owner and hairstylist to come up with a structure that works best for their business. While it’s not a “one size fits all” approach, there are some things to keep in mind to help make the process of establishing (and increasing) your prices more“It’sseamless.important to determine what works best for you because it may not be what works for the hairstylist across the street,” says Chantel Funk, educator, coach and owner of Chantel Funk + Co in Abbotsford, B.C. “With more years in the business, you gain perspective. I look at my numbers annually—how many clients I had, how many appointments I booked, how much product I used and so on, so I get a better understanding of the averages of it all and go from there.”
Professional Opinion Although it’s a go-to for some colourists, one form of pricing that Funk doesn’t prefer is a-la-carte since it makes it seem like services are optional to the guest. “If the client needs to have a bond protector, toner or deep-conditioning treatment, a-la-carte is set up for them to pick and choose what they want, instead of the professional telling them what they need,” she says. “I want to have control over what I’m recommending for my guest and so when I give my hourly rate, I build that into the cost. When I price quote, I price quote as a whole package and specify what’s included.”
It’s important for stylists to have a say, offer their professional opinion and “KNOWING YOUR BRAND IS ESSENTIAL FOR ALL STYLISTS. STANDING IN CONFIDENCE IN WHO YOU ARE, WHAT YOU BELIEVE IN AND WHAT YOU OFFER AS FAR AS SKILLS GO GIVES YOU A REALLY STRONG FOUNDATION FOR CHARGING BASED ON YOUR WORTH AND VALUE AS A STYLIST.”
—CHANTEL FUNK, EDUCATOR, COACH AND OWNER OF CHANTEL FUNK + CO IN ABBOTSFORD, B.C. be paid appropriately for their worth and experience. Because of this, Everett recommends reflecting the level of expertise of a stylist within the pricing model.“I’m a big fan of being able to have different pricing structures for the quality and calibre of the service being delivered because somebody who’s been in the industry for years and has massive demand for their time should be able to charge more than somebody just starting out,” he says. “But again, it all depends on the model of your business and what works for you.”
salonmagazine.ca / September 2022 57
PRO-TIP FUNK RECOMMENDS ADDING VALUE TO YOUR SERVICES. IF YOU’RE OFFERING A SPECIALIZED SERVICE, MAKE SURE YOU’RE CONTINUALLY LEARNING AND IMPROVING WHAT YOU OFFER— WHETHER IT’S A NEW APPLICATION METHOD OR CORRECTIVE FORMULATING. IF YOU CONTINUE TO EVOLVE FOR YOUR CLIENTS, THEY’LL NEVER GET BORED OR FEEL LIKE THEY’RE OVERPAYING.
THE EXPERTS — Chantel Funk is an educator, coach and owner of Chantel Funk + Co. in Abbotsford, B.C. — Jason Everett is an international keynote speaker and co-founder of High Performance Salon Academy in Roseville, Calif. clients when discussing pricing. “Being able to show clients—whether you’re charging an hourly rate plus colour, or having a flat rate—is an option but one thing you can do is break down the ticket further, so they understand what they’re paying for and how it’s being used,” he says. “Explaining the breakdown can reduce pushback from clients when it comes to price increases.” For some clients, it can simply come down to their budget. With inflation impacting many people’s disposable incomes, salons and stylists should consider ways to retain the client within the salon—even if it means referring them to a colleague. “Part of the reason our system works so well is that we work as a team, so we always have someone to refer those clients who aren’t able to afford your prices going up, to,” says Funk. “We’re able to refer people back and forth throughout our team, and it goes both ways. If I work with a junior stylist and their price point is better for my client, retaining that client within our team is helpful. If a junior stylist gets a client where they feel like what they’re asking is beyond their expertise, they’ll refer them to me. It’s really good to network and work as a collective rather than as competitors.”“Forus,it’s totally fine for a guest to have a relationship with the entire salon and move to a new stylist that’s more within their budget,” adds Everett. “I’m also a fan of making sure that, on a regular basis, you know that your clients will grow over time with you; not only in the income that they provide you, but as the quality of your service increases.”
While his previous space was in an old Victorian home with a design that he describes as “being in an old Colonial brothel/jewelry box,” Pacheco wanted to take a more holistic approach with his new salon. He reached out to his friend Anwar Mekhayech, who owns DesignAgency, a Toronto-based design studio that typically works on large hotels and restaurants. “I always called our old space the anti-salon because while I love my craft and what I do, I don’t necessarily like the aesthetic of the LUKEYALEXPHOTOS: EscapeMindful
Learn how this Toronto-based owner and colourist has reimagined the salon experience by offering a more wellness-inspired approach.
BY VERONICA BOODHAN traditional salon with all the posters and branded things,” he says. “I’ve been doing this for 30 years, so I have a pretty good understanding of how a salon should operate, and it was just a matter of collaborating with someone who understands design. He really came through and built this incredible space. It’s like a sanctuary; a temple. The vibe is sort of desert meets Japan meets church. It’s very zen, warm and minimal. Very comfortable.”
From its meditation hallways and benches to the salon’s two sound systems—one for a curated selection of music and another that emits a 528-hertz frequency, which is meant to connect with guests on a metaphysical level—to the self-affirmations and some of Pacheco’s own photography displayed in the bathrooms, the space has been designed to help people feel
58 salonmagazine.ca / September 2022 Interiors CO.&MEDULLA—
Luis Pacheco originally planned on relocating his salon Medulla & Co. (formerly known as Hair on the Avenue) in 2019, when the building he was in for 14 years was sold to a developer. With the hopes of staying within the same area (in Toronto’s Yorkville neighbourhood), he stumbled across a building that was around the corner from his previous location and designed by Hariri Pontarini Architects, who are known for their work on the Royal Ontario Museum. “It was a beautiful space and the bones of it were already there,” says Pacheco. “There are 20-foot ceilings with a very lofty design, and mezzanines that open onto the reception and stylingHowever,areas.”once the pandemic hit, construction was delayed and resulted in an opening that took place more than a year later than anticipated. However, it turned out to be a blessing in disguise since Pacheco says it gave him the time he needed to create his ultimate dream space.
Elevating the Experience
Keeping a more openconcept space in mind, Pacheco was inspired by the design of Wella’s Studio TO in Toronto’s Liberty Village, and even reached out to them for ideas on specs for his stations’lighting,distancing,etc.
➤ good from the inside out.
“A lot of the time when people come to the salon and want to change the way they look, it’s based on an emotional disconnection; they just want a pickme-up,” says Pacheco. “For us to really feel good, it starts from within.”
salonmagazine.ca / September 2022 59
Better Together While Pacheco focused on keeping the guest experience top of mind, he also
wanted to create a space that inspired creativity for his staff. “I’m not one for clutter or for being in a crowded space; high ceilings and vast space allows you to tap into your creativity more freely, so being in an open-concept area allows me to dream a little bit more and think outside of the box,” he says. “Harmony, space and balance create a sense of peace within me and others in the salon without even realizingCreatingit.”a space with a communal design that enabled his staff to feel more like a team was also important to Pacheco.“Eventhough we have departments that are compartmentalized—we have our colour room on the second floor and styling area on the main floor— you can still see what’s going on and still feel like you’re part of a salon as a whole, and not so secluded as we were in our previous space,” he says. “Where I work, I’m on this mezzanine so I can look down and see what’s happening in every corner of the salon. It's a great vantage point.”
While the salon’s interior design was top of mind, Pacheco also wanted to keep the outside looking just as beautiful. “One of the biggest attractions at our old salon was a backyard with trees and shrubs, so that was important to me to bring that vibe to the new location. I hired a plant stylist to bring in greenery and shrubs, so it’s like an outdoor living space within the salon.”
Keeping nature in mind is also
Knack for Nature
60 salonmagazine.ca / September 2022
DETAILS Opened in 2021 SPACE 4,000 square feet TEAM 30 BRANDS
salonmagazine.ca / September 2022 61 reflected inside the space, with the use of eco-friendly materials such as recycled paper stone, and the implementation of a more sustainable water filtration system that removes metallic buildup while offering 30 per cent more pressure with 80 per cent less water. While 80 per cent of the salon’s furniture is custom-made by Top Notch Cabinets, Pacheco sourced eco chairs from Maletti for all of the stations, and reupholstered his old mid-century modern sofa to give it new life.
ChristopheRedkenWellaTO112OribeRobinOlaplexUNITE
Smart Design When thinking of his staff, he wanted to create an environment that was designed to be more user-friendly and efficient. For example, the sinks feature reclining chairs with the colour bar positioned behind them, which was a departure from his previous salon.
where we’re lacking experiences. We’re at home and going into work if we’re able to but we’ve been so limited as far as human contact, so going to a salon is an outing and experience. What better time to elevate that experience to something you’ve never seen or felt before?”
As for the salon’s retail area, Pacheco says the idea was to create a more jewelry-inspired approach with a curated range of product that’s displayed on a table instead of a shelf for an immersive experience.
“I didn’t want the reception area to look like a retail store,” he says. “I didn’t want to have a huge retail space because I believe in using great products and finding what works for you.”
“Before, our sinks were in one area and the colour bar was in another, but now everything is more of an intuitive experience for the staff,” he says. “For the colour bar, I built one that’s larger with everything that’s easily visible and reachable. It makes it easier for formulating and reordering because it’s important to me to be fully stocked with every shade available because those are the tools we need to create and have a successful result.”
While Pacheco’s favourite area is where he works, he also enjoys the lounge area he’s created within the salon that features a sofa, two chairs and a table. “At the end of the day, we’ll reconvene there and talk about our day,” he says. “There’s a guitar so sometimes I’ll pick it up and start playing“We’resongs.”inatime
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To find out how you can have an impact by partnering with LGFB, contact Dota Crawford at dcrawford@lgfb.ca. GOOD FEEL BETTER® REGISTERED CHARITY #13374 0316 RR0001
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The small-group format allows for connection and sharing between women going through a similar experience. Tell a woman you love about the LGFB supportive care workshop – available online and in-person. For more information, visit lgfb.ca
salonmagazine.ca / September 2022 63 Events — PHOTOS: SALON STAFF
BeautyandBeautySupplies,VenusdistributorsOntario-basedattendeesthewereBeautyCanRadLimitedRadiantSupplies.
The show also featured a runway presentation with eight models with hair shades ranging from platinum blonde to expensive brunette to vibrant Amongombre.
TakesMoroccanoilToronto!
More than 100 hairstylists gathered at the Liberty Grand Entertainment Complex for Moroccanoil’s Professional Haircolor show. When & Where: May 29, Toronto The event was hosted by Robert Ham, vice-president of global education for Moroccanoil, who is pictured here with the brand’s regional brandTonymanagerSpina.
ProfessionalMoroccanoil’sthetotookDudleyeducatorTexas-based|TatianaalsothestageshowcaseversatilityofHaircolor.
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The show featured on-stage colour demonstrations by the brand’s colour ambassadors Lisa Dinh and Greg Gilmore.
The event was hosted by education dean Jessica Hoach and program director Martin Truong, along with co-host Andre Turlings. Antonio Quintieri, a Wella Top Stylist, showcased his masterful haircutting skills.
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Maritime Beauty’s Maritime Inspiration featured a weekend filled with interactive booths and education segments that included artists and educators from Moroccanoil, Redken, Matrix, Biolage, Design.ME and Pulp Riot.
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| The event also included live competitions for evening upstyles and barbering. Other educators in attendance included past Contessa winners Angela Debono and Michael Crispel, along with Lisa Tu , Divya Narine, Anna Mirzoyan, Nancy Warren and Thaddeus, with each expert featuring a wide range of specialties, including editorial styling, braiding, barbering, film and television styling, and much more.
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64 salonmagazine.ca / September 2022 Events —
The Eikonic Academy hosted its second annual Uplift Hair Jam event for an evening of education and empowerment, as well as a celebration of knowledge and unity in the salon industry. The event featured local hairstylists and educators who hosted live demos to showcase and share their skills.
| Bridal hair experts Cathey and Frank Salerno demonstrated a range of stunning showcaseTeam,BaBylissmasterBensonwedding-readylooks.Hedges,abarberfortheProBarberingwasjoinedbyhaireducatorVictoria(aka.@missvictorious),totheirbarberingandfadingtechniques.
When & Where: June 5, Mississauga, Ont.
When & Where: May 15-16, Halifax
InspirationMaritimeMaritimeBeauty’s
Inspiration from the Heart at Eikonic Academy’s Uplift Hair Jam
BEAUTY,MARITIMEPHOTOS: SALON ORLANDOPREMIERESTAFF, Matrix Canada’s artistic director Rodrigo Araneda and national colour master Heidi Kenney took the stage to showcase colour and cut trends.
When & Where: June 4-6, Orlando
salonmagazine.ca / September 2022 65
B RANC H OU T
Hairstylists and beauty pros from across North America travelled to Orlando, FL, to attend one of the year’s largest education and trade shows.
| In addition to the Premiere Orlando Main Stage, which hosted leading artists and educators, the event also debuted a Barber Stage, featuring Victory Barber & Brand’s Matty Conrad, STMNT Grooming Goods’ Julius Cvesar, BaBylissPRO Barberology’s Sofie Pok and more.
The three-day event featured more than 460 exhibitors and offered more than 650 complimentary educational classes, along with live hairdressing, barbering and nail competitions.
Inside OrlandoPremiere2022!
— Attendees had the opportunity to learn haircutting, colour and styling from artists such as Sam Villa and Sean Godard, as well as Dove,Benson,ChrystoferSonyaPhilipWolff,andmanymore.
Matrix global artistic director and Ulta Beauty Pro Team member Michelle O’Connor took the stage to showcase a wide range of texture styling techniques.|
Help Plant Our Urban Forests
66 salonmagazine.ca / September 2022 SocialSalon CreationsColourful In need of some hair colour inspo for your clients? Look no further! From reds to rainbows and blondes to balayage, check out what these Canadian artists are up to. And don’t forget to tag us in your creations for the chance to be featured! INSTAGRAMPHOTOS:FARRUGIA,LAURENTEXT:
Saskatchewan-based@adamatcapelli stylist Adam Spicer his longtime client
gave
andrainbowKellyEdmonton-based@hairbymisskellyostylistO’Learynailedthevibeswiththisbrightcolourfullook.herstylist@krsbrsh.hair.@hairbyamberjoyWinnipeg-basedAmberJoyleftclientprettyinpinkwiththisgorgeousberry-tonedlook.
ChrisVancouver-basedstyleThis@chrisweberhairdreamycopperwascreatedbystylistWeber.
BraxtonSaskatchewan-basedlovingareReds,@braxtonthomashairorangesandcoppersperfectforfall,sowe’rethislookcreatedbyhairstylistThomas.
a new look with a dimensional cool lowlight and a touch of purple.
This@krsbrsh.hairiswhatbalayage dreams are made of, thanks to Ontariobased stylist
NEW MOROCCANOIL PROFESSIONAL HAIRCOLOR Discover care-infused color, delivering vibrant, long-lasting results with intense shine. Visit MoroccanoilProfessionals.com to learn more.
