Salon Magazine, September 2021 by Salon Communications Inc.

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Levelling Up SEPTEMBER 2021

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September 2021 38 F E AT U R E

Education’s New Normal

Since the pandemic’s restrictions have put a halt to most in-person classes, virtual ones have been the only feasible option for continued learning. Find out what experts think this means for the future of education in the industry, and why there may be a demand for both types moving forward.

50 A NDR EW SMITH, A NDR EW SMITH SA LONS , U.K .

“Education of any kind is critical. It’s the foundation of our industry and without it, we’re in trouble.” — TERRY RITCEY, DIRECTOR OF EDUCATION AND EVENTS, REDKEN CANADA

42 F E AT U R E

(Re)Starting Over

Having endured a painfully long season of lockdowns, many salon owners say they experienced some muchneeded time to re-evaluate their systems. Learn more about the changes they’ve implemented that will help better their business for the future.

45 I N S P I R AT I O N

Collections

Robert Eaton; Callum Standen-May; Andrew Smith; Julie Vriesinga

56 C O N T E S S A GA L L E RY

Eryn Wall

Find out why this Newfoundland-based hairstylist will never stop competing or creating bold looks, and how she stays positive even during the toughest of times.

ON THE COVER: HAIR: ROBERT EATON, RUSSELL EATON, U.K. MAKEUP: LUCY FLOWER, WARDROBE STYLING: CLARE FRITH, PHOTO: RICHARD MILES salonmagazine.ca / September 2021 11

Editor’s Letter

Publisher’s Note

18 L E T ’ S G E T D I G I TA L

SalonMagazine.ca

Stay updated on the latest industry news, expanded feature stories, editorial hair collections, how-tos and more!

46 RO B E R T E AT O N , RU S S E L L E AT O N , U . K .

W H AT ’ S N E W

Hairlines

Learn about the latest products and styling tools— plus, nail inspiration and upcoming hair trends to get you ready for fall.

60 BUSINESS

Tough Loss

58 P RO F I L E

Making Space

Get to know Lupe Voss, a leading hair colour educator who’s used creative, out-ofthe-box thinking to co-create her own hair colour company.

Since the lockdowns have given hairstylists more time to rethink their careers, we spoke with business experts about how to deal with losing staff who seek out opportunities outside the salon.

62 INTER IORS

Glitz and Glamour

Check out Studio So Lara’s third location featuring the same beloved luxury services, but with an entirely new look.

66 SA LON SOCI A L

48 CA L L U M S TA N D E N - M AY, S TA N D E N M AY, U.K.

12 salonmagazine.ca / September 2021

Education Without Borders

So much education, so little time! We’ve rounded up some of our favourite tips and hair hacks from social media.

SMOOTHER. STRONGER. BRIGHTER. BETTER. Goldwell’s new lightening range with cutting-edge technologies. Powerful lifting performance with up to 9 levels. The best hair condition with integrated BondPro+ Technology.* goldwell.com

* Compared to leading competitors.

#LIGHTENINGUNLIMITED #LIGHTDIMENSIONS

Editor’s Letter —

DISCOVER MORE– RIGHT AT YOUR FINGERTIPS

SEE STUNNING COLLECTIONS BU I L D A R E WA R DI NG CA R E E R GE T TH E L AT E S T I N DU S T RY NE WS F I N D TH E TE C H N ICA L A DV IC E YOU CR AV E

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As we all get a little older (and hopefully wiser), it’s our responsibility to help educate and guide those that follow behind us. Sharing our experience is one of the best ways to pay it forward and equip them with the knowledge and skills they need to succeed. With that said, younger generations are teachers in their own right. From technology and social media to the latest trends and more, they can help enlighten older generations on ways to be more well-versed in their craft. In this issue focusing on education, it’s only fitting that we dive into how our industry has embraced virtual learning, in Education’s New Normal (pg. 38). While it may be too soon to tell what this means for the future of in-person education, our experts predict a hybrid model may be on the horizon. Speaking of new realities, I chatted with Ontario-based salon owners for (Re)Starting Over (pg. 42) to learn about how they’re adjusting after the longest salon lockdown in Canada, and the changes they’ve made that will continue well beyond the pandemic. As we’re all back to business—which remains far from usual—it’s safe to say we’ve learned a thing or two that can help us look at ourselves, our business and future through a new lens. Let’s not forget that out of adversity comes opportunity. Make yours count!

SalonMag Salon_Magazine

Veronica Boodhan Editor-in-Chief

salonmagazine SalonMagazine

14 salonmagazine.ca / September 2021 AD_salonmagazineDOTca.halfV_1-1.indd 1

2020-12-10 4:47 PM

PHOTOGRAPH BY DOUG MCMILLAN, HAIR AND MAKEUP BY DIANA CARREIRO

Teachable Moments

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An exquisite collection of premium styling tools that celebrates the life of Leandro P. Rizzuto, the founder of Conair Corporation, a man who was dedicated to innovation and beauty.

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Salon Magazine ISSN 1197-1495, VOLUME 30, ISSUE 7 SALONMAGAZINE.CA

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Veronica Boodhan veronica@salonmagazine.ca

Publisher’s Note —

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Stephanie MacDonald Gallant stephanie@salonmagazine.ca ASSISTANT EDITOR Sami Chazonoff sami@salonmagazine.ca SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR Shanice Romelus shanice@salonmagazine.ca CONTRIBUTORS Liz Bruckner

GROUP PUBLISHER Laura Dunphy laura@salonmagazine.ca SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Jordan Miandro jordan@salonmagazine.ca PRODUCTION MANAGER Alan Swinton production@salonmagazine.ca

The Countdown Is On

OFFICE MANAGER Cathy Donaghy cathy@salonmagazine.ca

The Contessa Awards are near and dear to many hearts in the Canadian professional beauty industry. After all, it has a rich 33-year history of propelling up-andcoming talent forward while simultaneously inspiring beauty pros of all ages and backgrounds to dream big. It’s become the gold standard in the industry, and we at Salon are so grateful to know it’s not only a beacon of hope in dark times, but that the professional beauty community is so supportive of all that the Contessas stand for. In light of all of the changes the last year has brought, we’ve made it our priority to make entering the Contessas easier than ever. For the second (and final year), we’re permitting past, non-winning collections to be re-entered in select categories. Now is your chance to make a “comeback” that may present you with another shot at winning! For other categories, you can simply do a “refresh” on your collection, or enter something new for a chance to win one of our most coveted awards, including Canadian Hairstylist of the Year! If you haven’t already, be sure to visit SalonMagazine.ca/Contessa for the full list of our new rules and regulations. We’re also very excited to share that the Contessas are back to being a live event this year! I truly don't know of an industry more social than ours, where friendships run deep and even competitors talk to each other like old friends. Since many of us have not been able to see each other in person in a long time, this is the opportunity to gather your teams, get dressed up and have some fun! Not to mention that we have some stellar presentations and surprises lined up that we’re over the moon about. Stay tuned for more details! And in case you’re wondering about the potential return of any COVID restrictions, our team is prepared with a hybrid Contessa ceremony and event similar to last year’s hugely popular virtual show. Still thinking about whether or not to enter? Consider this your encouragement to do it! You might just surprise yourself. And I promise you that you won’t want to miss out on this year’s celebration!

CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Tom Arkell tom@salonmagazine.ca

16 salonmagazine.ca / September 2021

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The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail helpdesk@ subscriptions.salon. Our privacy officer is Adrian Holland. This project has been made possible [in part] by the Government of Canada.

NO.BREAKER Up to 99% less hair breakage* * vs low conditioning shampoo

N OW ! HI RING Help Wanted Are you looking for a new place to work or are you searching for new talent? Visit our job board to see new opportunities from across the country or to post a free listing.

18 salonmagazine.ca / September 2021

Grow Your Skill Set So much education, so little time! Online courses are a great way to enhance your abilities and learn from industry professionals in the comfort of your home. Take your craft to the next level with our list of free education classes.

➣

Catwalk Coifs

We have step-by-step details on how to achieve some of the hottest looks seen during Fashion Week. Get ready to be inspired by these runway looks and learn how to recreate them for your clients!

#Contessa2022 It’s your last chance to enter the biggest awards competition celebrating Canadian professional beauty! The deadline is September 8th— don’t miss out!

PHOTOS: HAIR & WARDROBE STYLING: IVAN RODRIGUEZ, EL SALÓN HAIRDRESSING CLUB, MEXICO, MAKEUP: THESSA PERALTA & GREG DEL TORO, PHOTO: JESÚS HERRERA, GROW BY SAEFUL MUSLIM FROM THE NOUN PROJECT, CODY RASMUSSEN

Get those creative juices flowing! Check out our collection archive of edgy cuts, bold colour placement and inspirational styles from around the world.

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salonmagazine.c

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Editorial Hair

# MYBELIEF

PERFECTLY IMPERFECT CRAFTED HAIR TEXTURES NUDE POWDER SPRAY AIRY TEXTURE SPRAY NYMPH SALT SPRAY

Authentic beauty is natural and simple. Gone are the days where hair is forced to follow rigid, old school conventions. The hair of today is about effortless style and loose, free flowing textures. #AuthenticBeautyMovement. ©2021 Henkel Canada Corporation, Mississauga, ON L5N 6C3

Join the

#AUTHENTICBEAUTYMOVEMENT

@authenticbeautyconcept.ca Authenticbeautyconcept.ca

INTRODUCING

Transport your senses with the iconic Moroccanoil scent, a blend of spicy amber and sweet florals, now in a fragrance mist for hair and body.

Moroccanoilprofessionals.com

“FALL” INTO AUTUMN’S LATEST HAIRCARE, COLOUR AND STYLING LAUNCHES THAT’LL GET YOU READY TO TACKLE THE NEW SEASON. PLUS, A PEEK AT UPCOMING HAIR AND NAIL TRENDS.

PHOTO: REVLON PROFESSIONAL

➣ As part of Revlon Professional’s colour journey and Revlonissimo—the brand’s signature colour line—select brand ambassadors were tasked with creating looks using the latest colour effects and techniques. For their #stripedhair collection, multi-award-winning hairstylist and Revlon Professional ambassador Pierre Ginsburg used his distinct editorial flair to elevate the single-strand look with several long, vertical stripes. The warm blend of dark reds and sleek black strands coordinate perfectly with the fall season, while the face-framing #frontstreaks look is both on-trend and edgy yet subtle enough for effortless wearability.

To see the full collection, visit SalonMagazine.ca salonmagazine.ca / September 2021 21

➣

Fashion-Forward

Hairlines — NEWS

Meet your mature clients’ hair needs with new shades from Schwarzkopf Professional’s Igora Royal Absolutes.

The brand has added six new fashion shades (7-140, 7-460, 7-470, 9-140, 9-460 and 9-470) that offer equal coverage on various hair types (thick, coarse and resistant) with optimal vibrancy, premium shine and long-lasting results. The ideal colour portfolio for clients seeking grey and white coverage, the range of on-trend shades targets clients with lighter hair bases (between levels seven and nine), providing them with trendy fashion shades—including cool beige and copper—without compromising coverage. Formulated with siliamine and collagen, the line’s Pro-Age Complex smooths the surface of the cuticle for maximum sleekness and shine, and utilizes Low-Odour Technology (to reduce the smell of ammonia) for a more pleasant experience for clients and colourists.

➣ Strengthen and protect hair with Sebastian’s No.Breaker. This leave-in bonding and styling spray is formulated with apple acid, which creates new bonds within the hair fibre, and styling polymers that deeply penetrate the hair cuticle. It’s perfect for in-salon treatments, add-on services, at-home care, and also adds volume and smoothness to hair that’s been damaged from heat styling and/or chemical services.

➣

Scent from Above

Find out why Moroccanoil’s Brumes du Maroc Hair & Body Mist is sure to garner clients a host of compliments this season. As many of us know, Moroccanoil products are renown for their signature fragrance. The scent is so well-known and loved that a fragrance mist has been the brand’s most requested product, and it’s finally here! Enter Moroccanoil’s Brumes du Maroc Hair & Body Mist, which features an exotic blend of spicy amber, sweet floral notes and the brand’s trademark scent. The all-over spray is perfect for the season and a single spritz on the hair or body will have clients reminiscing (and dreaming!) of the Mediterranean. And in addition to being infused with nourishing argan oil and vitamin E, it contains a UV absorber that protects the scalp from sun exposure! 22 salonmagazine.ca / September 2021

PRO TIP SKIP THE CONDITIONER AND USE DIRECTLY ON YOUR CLIENTS’ SHAMPOOED AND TOWEL-DRIED HAIR TO GET THE FULL AND IMMEDIATE EFFECT!

PHOTOS: SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL, MOROCCANOIL

B R E A K I N G RU L E S

➣ TW ICE AS NICE

Hairlines — NEWS

Up your colour game with Joico’s Lumi10 and Colorful innovations. The brand’s latest colour launch is a true time-saver! Joico Lumishine Lumi10 is a 10-minute permanent crème colour that’s ideal for clients and stylists on the go. Available in 15 different shades, it has the same features as the brand’s traditional Lumishine but with added benefits, including 100 per cent grey coverage and two times the shine. And that’s not all! Joico has also introduced Colorful, their newest line for vibrancy and colour protection. Infused with pomegranate extract and camellia oil, the line includes a shampoo, conditioner and Glow Beyond Antifade Serum that offers UV protection and up to eight weeks of vibrancy. The result: Clients who can effortlessly rock their favourite styles and shades all season long.

➣ BOOSTER JUICE

Is your client’s hair in need of some extra TLC? Alterna’s My Hair. My Canvas. Glow Crazy Shine Booster is a vegan, highly concentrated jelly booster that provides a long-lasting injection of shine to dull, dry hair. Made with a blend of prickly pear oil and vegan botanical caviar, it maintains hair’s moisture and suppleness while simultaneously improving manageability. If you’re looking to further improve manageability and maintain hair’s natural smoothness, Jelly Fix Repair Booster is highly concentrated, helping to repair hair from the effects of pollution while restoring its health and preventing future breakage. Infused with the brand’s signature vegan botanical caviar, it’s designed to help your clients’ locks truly shine.

24 salonmagazine.ca / September 2021

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Purple Power Elevate your blonde clients’ fall looks with Pureology’s Color Fanatic Top Coat + Tone. What better way to welcome a new season than with a high-gloss purple topcoat that will restore shine and softness while neutralizing brassy yellow tones? Thanks to Pureology’s Color Fanatic Top Coat + Tone, you can help clients do just that for up to eight washes! Its 100 per cent vegan formula is made with oat milk and camellia oil to soften, condition and nourish hair. Plus, it’s formulated for all shades of blonde to provide smoothing and neutralizing results in minutes! Whether your clients are in need of a quick gloss, want to eliminate unwanted brassiness and yellow hues, or are looking to seal hair cuticles for silky locks, this product will help take their blonde to the next level.

PHOTOS: JOICO, PUREOLOGY, ALTERNA

Improve hair’s manageability and shine with Alterna’s My Hair. My Canvas. Glow Crazy Shine Booster and Jelly Fix Repair Booster.

➣

Sprays for Days

Hairlines — NEWS

Create longer-lasting styles your clients will love with Authentic Beauty Concept’s new styling sprays. The brand’s three new styling products are crafted to create and enhance natural and touchable texture. The Nude Powder Spray is a fine styling powder designed to add a lived-in look to dry hair while simultaneously providing volume at the root. The Nymph Salt Spray is infused with sea salt minerals, and is the perfect way to give clients effortless beach waves without drying out their locks. Finally, the Airy Texture Spray is a dry texturizing spray that creates tousled looks with lots of movement and pliable volume. An added bonus: The new line was co-created with the brand’s global creative advocate, Hester Wernert Rijn, and all three products are registered by the Vegan Society.

Lights, Camera, Action! The 33rd annual Contessa Awards are returning LIVE*!

Say hello to vegan ingredients and eco-conscious packaging with Design.ME Hair’s Infinite Mist styling range.

Combining naturally derived ingredients, innovative technology and sustainable packaging, Design.ME Hair’s Infinite Mist line features three of the brand’s must-have products: Puff.ME volumizing spray, Gloss.ME shine and heat protectant, and Bounce.ME curl enhancer. Vegan and cruelty-free, each product is housed in a unique infinite spray bottle that offers ultra-fine, even product distribution. And not only is the spray bottle more convenient and visually appealing, but each product has a paperboard container made of 70 per cent renewable materials for easy and eco-conscious refilling!

26 salonmagazine.ca / September 2021

On Sunday, November 7th at the Westin Harbour Castle Conference Centre in Toronto, the 2022 Contessa Awards will feature show-stopping hair presentations, finalist collections, award winners and attendees from across Canada. We know how difficult the past 18 months have been, and while the pandemic isn’t over yet, that doesn’t mean the party has to be! Rest assured that we’ll be following COVID-19 guidelines while doing everything we can to make this celebration one you won’t forget! Stay tuned to SalonMagazine.ca/Contessa for more details and updates.

Don’t forget to enter! Entry deadline: September 8, 2021 *Subject to COVID-19 restrictions

PHOTOS: AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT, DESIGN.ME HAIR, CLAIRE NICOLSON

To Infinity and Beyond

After our hugely successful virtual ceremony last year, the Contessa Awards are back with a live, in-person event this year!

READER’S CHOICE AWARDS

WINNER 2021

Voted 2021 BEST GREEN BRAND Thank you to all salon professionals for voting AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT as GREEN BRAND in Salon Magazine’s 2021 Reader’s Choice Awards.

Join the

#AUTHENTICBEAUTYMOVEMENT

@authenticbeautyconcept.ca Authenticbeautyconcept.ca

Customize your routines with BaBylissPRO and Conair’s new legacy line of styling tools. The two powerhouse appliance brands have joined forces to create a legacy brand, Leandro Limited. This collaboration features a collection of exclusive styling tools inspired by Leandro Rizzuto, the founder of Conair. Among them: The Sensor Dryer, which features Light Pressure Response Technology to activate or pause airflow at the slightest touch; The Midi Dryer, a pistol-grip dryer with a filter design allowing optimal airflow and pressure; The Rootreacher, a flat iron with a unique teardrop shape for close to scalp straightening and dent-free results; and The Crimpcurl, a pentagon wand offering crimped curls for a textured look. Not only are these tools innovative, their sleek design and packaging are sure to make them the talk of the salon.

New Leadership

Kao Salon Division has appointed Dominic Pratt as the new global president of Goldwell, KMS, Oribe and VARIS. Pratt is Kao’s former vice president of R&D, Skin Care Products Research and has served as a member of the executive salon lead team for several years. He remains committed to the salon industry and has an extensive knowledge of the needs of stylists. As of September 1st, Pratt will take over from Cory Couts, who, after serving as the company’s global president for nine years, will be returning to the United States.

Moving On Up

The Joico team has promoted Megan Nevins to national education manager for the Joico and Zotos brands. Nevins previously held the role of regional education manager for Ontario and will be replacing Kelly Cook, who celebrated her retirement in July. JOICO HAS ALSO ANNOUNCED A NEW DISTRIBUTION PARTNER: ALTERNATIVE BEAUTY SERVICES, LTD., LOCATED IN MISSISSAUGA, ONT.

28 salonmagazine.ca / September 2021

Olivia Garden Professional Titanium + Ion Curling Iron “It’s an incredible hair tool that solves many of the problems stylists face every day behind the chair. The ergonomic thumb rest, dual-ceramic heaters and the elimination of the outdated eyelash curler style stand all add up to unparalleled performance and quality for a perfect curl every time.” — Detra Smith, an Olivia Garden educator based in Moulton, AL

—

Ceramic ionic coated clip for smoother curling results

—

Features a high-quality, ultra titanium barrel safe for all hair types, with a high resistance to heat, scratches and wear

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High-performance dualceramic heaters for quick heat up with even heat distribution

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Features a lever with ergonomic thumb design for easier grip and control

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Five temperature settings up to 455°F

—

30-minute auto shut-off feature for safe storing

Eight-foot-long, 360-degree swivel cord with hanging loop for ease of use and convenience

PHOTOS: DANNYCO PROFESSIONAL, OLIVIA GARDEN, KAO, JOICO

Cool Tools

TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX

Hairlines — NEWS

➣

Chatters, the largest salon chain in Canada with over 100 fullservice locations across the country, is excited to be celebrating their 30th Anniversary. As a stylist founded company, hair is not just their business, it’s their passion. Founded back in 1991, the company has evolved dynamically through the years. They are focused on leading every initiative with a stylist mindset to better serve their guests, both in and out of the chair. Today, they are proud to have over 1,200 stylists representing more than 120,000 unique client relationships. For 30 years Chatters has been more than a salon to our clients; we have been in the business of helping our guests to feel beautiful. It is with tremendous pride that we look back on the growth and evolution of our organization across Canada. Thank you to our talented & passionate stylists that create a unique bond with our guests. Our sincere appreciation also goes to our loyal field & corporate team members across Canada, who support our vision of “feeling good, doing good and being our best.” We aspire to be a company that empowers creativity and self-expression, creating an environment for our teams where they are free to be their authentic selves, proudly and confidently.

Greg Moreau CEO

BUTTERFLY CLIPS A 90s staple that’s making a comeback.

1991

DOIN’ THE TWIST Twists will never go out of style.

1994

HALF UP, HALF DOWN Equal parts cool and classic.

2012

THE TOP KNOT A versatile trend with icon status.

2021

Hairlines — NAILS

CELEB NA IL LOOKS

S W E AT E R W E AT H E R

Dreamy by Design

CND Cozy up with Books & Beaujolais, the earthy, deep barn red shade from the Wild Romantics collection.

Artistic Nail Design Help clients get noticed this season with the Breakout Beauty collection’s Outside the Lines, a dark burgundy pearl.

Gelish Break the rules with the No Boundaries collection featuring Afternoon Escape, a burnt orange crème that’ll complement any fall look.

1 Demi Lovato is already embracing the neutral tones of fall with these tortoise shell-inspired nails, featuring warm brown and orange hues. 2 We’re here for OPI brand ambassador Kerry Washington’s playful manicure that’s accented with colourful tips featuring heart, moon and star nail art. 3 Spotted: Actress Blake Lively sporting a moody floral mani by celebrity nail artist Elle Gerstein (@enamelle). 4 TikTok star Amelie Zilber was pretty in pink (and white and green) when donning her patterned and floral manicure. 5 Celebrity nail artist Eri Ishizu decked out the one and only Lizzo with gold French tips that are fit for a queen. 30 salonmagazine.ca / September 2021

6 Author and fashion brand founder Emily Schuman rocks this classic checkered nail look, featuring asymmetrical white and nude designs. 7 Orange you glad you saw these gorgeous nails?! Influencer and fashion designer Danielle Bernstein makes this inverted French manicure with a pop of colour look next-level cool. 8 Celebrity ‘MANicurist’ Tom Bachik transformed Selena Gomez’s nails with floral designs that feature on-trend blues and purples, which are perfect for transitioning into the new season. 9 Singer-songwriter Ella Mai makes a splash with her whimsical manicure, complete with squiggly lines and pastel tones.

OPI Get deep this season with Espresso Your Inner Self, a decadent brown shade from the Downtown LA collection.

ORLY Make a roaring statement with Lion’s Ear, an orange crème from the Wild Natured collection.

PHOTOS: INSTAGRAM, CND, ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN, GELISH, OPI, ORLY

Infuse some playful art and colour into your clients’ nails this season with inspiration from trendsetting celebrities and influencers.

We help you narrow the search.

PRODUC T GUIDE

spg. salonmagazine.c a Search by product category or keyword. Also, find a comprehensive list of Canadian manufacturers and distributors.

Sleek Styles R+Co BLEU Magnifier Thickening Spray & Lifesaver Volume & Texture Spray R+Co co-founder, Garren, curated the hair looks for Anna Sui’s collection at NYFW, opting for sleek and voluminous styles inspired by the 1960s. He used the Magnifier Thickening Spray from R+Co’s sister brand, R+Co BLEU, to ensure the swooped-straight hair maintained a sleek shine, and Lifesaver Volume & Texture Spray to finish the look.

32 salonmagazine.ca / September 2021

Braids for Days Bumble and bumble Does It All Hairspray & Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil The long and sleek braided pony was all the rage in Prabal Gurung’s NYFW digital presentation. By minimizing flyaways and smoothing the edges, the polished hairstyle complemented Gurung’s edgy yet feminine collection. Hairstylist Evanie Frausto used Bumble and bumble’s Does It All Hairspray and Hairdresser’s Invisible Oil for a glossy finish on her simple yet elevated threestrand braid.

TEXT: SAMI CHAZONOFF, PHOTOS: INSTAGRAM, R+CO, BUMBLE AND BUMBLE, SEBASTIAN PROFESSIONAL, CODY RASMUSSEN, DYSON, ORIBE

HAVE A LOOK AT THIS SEASON’S HOTTEST HAIRSTYLING TRENDS (AND MUST-HAVE PRODUCTS) FROM FASHION WEEKS AROUND THE GLOBE.

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Hairlines — TREND REPORT

Runway Recap: Autumn/Winter 2021

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Gold Mine

Sebastian Professional Dark Oil

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Modern Mullets Oribe Texturizing Spray Since the model’s natural hair type is 1B—straight and fine—hairstylist Sky CrippsJackson wanted to give her a “cool” cut to complement Claudia Li’s collection at NYFW. Cripps-Jackson used minimal styling to achieve this contemporary mullet, but made sure to add Oribe’s Texturizing Spray at the roots to give hair additional body.

Wavy Baby

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For Christian Siriano’s runway show at NYFW, Sebastian Professional international artist Anthony Cole created a long braid embellished with gold circular hair accessories. Using Sebastian Professional’s signature Dark Oil to add smoothness, body and control to blow-dried hair, Cole then sectioned the hair into a lightly expanded braid (a technique used to create a fuller look).

Dyson Supersonic Professional Hair Dryer with Diffuser At Paris Fashion Week, the ubër-creative Pyer Moss show was a commentary on Black culture. Lead stylist Jawara created a gorgeous look with face-framing finger waves and a tight low bun. He carefully secured the fingerwaved baby hairs around the face and made sure to set the look with Dyson’s Supersonic Professional Hair Dryer, using the diffuser attachment for more control.

salonmagazine.ca / September 2021 33

LEARN WHAT THESE EXPERTS SAY CLIENTS ARE NOW LOOKING FOR FROM THEIR HAIR SERVICES, AND WHY COLOUR CORRECTIONS ARE BECOMING THE NEW NORMAL.

Colour Lessons from Lockdown Since salons across Canada reopened after the latest lockdowns, experts say that there have been a variety of key industry insights to focus on and learn from. Among them: The fact that the colouring world is much different than it was pre-pandemic. “Almost everyone has some sort of colour correction now,” says Reema Jaber, owner of Hair by Reema in Mississauga, Ont., and member of Schwarzkopf Professional’s #SKPCANSquad. “Their appointment is longer and we have to charge more now because things have gotten more expensive. We’re also more educated after all the training we did during the lockdown. Clients understand that this is our business; it’s how we make our income.” We spoke with colourists across the country to find out how they’re maximizing their colour corrections and services, and asked them for their takes on the latest trends emerging from the pandemic. Setting The Tone Some colourists may dread the idea of colour corrections due to the extra time, effort and commitment they require, but the experience doesn’t have to be difficult.

34 salonmagazine.ca / September 2021

“Colour corrections are so fun! I’ve seen some crazy things throughout the pandemic, including people using box dye and doing their own bleachand-tones. It’s a challenge to fix, but I love a challenge,” says Jaber. “What makes it difficult is when someone has very damaged hair—that’s the scariest thing to work with when it comes to colour corrections. Otherwise, everything else is pretty fixable.” “I find that it’s more of a schedule problem than a work problem,” says Nadia Abouwaked, a hairstylist and colourist at Effusion Artiste Coiffeur in Montreal, and ambassador for L’Oréal Professionnel. “A colour correction takes time to do properly, which means the client has to wait a long time, or you have to do it in two appointments.” To help manage your clients’ expectations, it’s important to be clear about the details during the consultation.

PRO TIP WHEN PRICING COLOUR CORRECTIONS, ABOUWAKED SAYS A GOOD RULE OF THUMB IS TO NOT ONLY BASE IT ON THE AMOUNT OF TIME IT TAKES, BUT ALSO THE AMOUNT OF HAIR THE CLIENT HAS, AND THE AMOUNT OF PRODUCT USED.

TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTO: HAIR: CHRISTOPHE GAILLET, FREELANCE, FRANCE, MAKEUP: IZABELA SZELAGOWSKA, WARDROBE STYLING: GOSHA KUSPER, PHOTO: WERONIKA KOSINSKA

Hairlines — COLOUR

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PRODUCT PICKS

“Underpromise and overquote,” says Telesa Brown, a Calgary-based colour specialist and educator for Joico. “As a stylist, we sometimes forget that our clients don’t understand the process, so it’s important to explain what to expect. If you can lift the hair better or lighter than you originally said, you’ll look like a hero. But even if you don’t, at least it’s what they were expecting.”

Retail Therapy Tips for elevating your take-home product game. Seizing the Opportunity

Schwarzkopf Professional BlondMe This revamped care and colour line offers versatile options for all types of blondes and features 3D Bond Creation Technology to strengthen hair from the inside out.

L’Oréal Professionnel Metal Detox This three-step, in-salon system transforms colour services by removing metal particles from hair for more consistent colour results and less breakage.

Doing Your Part In addition to the consultation, making time to do a strand test can help you assess the hair’s porosity to see how it will react and determine your timing, which can be helpful for all colourists—no matter how much experience you have. Strand tests are also critical for clients with multiple colours in their hair that’s resulted in banding. Jaber suggests using a “low and slow” approach and adjusting as you work. “Start with 20-volume,” she says. “You’ll definitely need to reapply, but you have to give it time. Sometimes on the regrowth you’ll have to use 7-volume and 15-volume on the ends—or 30-volume if they have years of buildup.” Trend Forecast While some major colour trends emerged from last year’s lockdown, things have already begun to shift. “People are moving away from money pieces,” says Jaber. “Now there’s less of a face-frame and more darkness on top. They want something more subtle in the front.” “We’re doing more contouring around the face and babylights for a sun-kissed effect,” adds Abouwaked. “Or a half-balayage—they just do the front and a bit at the top every three months.” “It’s an interesting time to do hair because anything goes,” says Brown. “I’m finding that more colour blocks are starting to come back—bold colour and highlights right to the scalp with blonde services every six to eight weeks, which is great because it means more work for us.”

PRO TIP FOR CLIENTS WITH BANDING, JABER SUGGESTS USING COTTON TO SEPARATE THE SECTIONS TO PREVENT LIGHTENER FROM BLEEDING ON THE REST OF THE HAIR.

Joico Defy Damage ProSeries 1 and 2 This bond-building duo is used before and during colour and lightening services to repair and protect hair.

“I feel like more people have wanted to take care of themselves during the pandemic because they had more time for things like hair masks and treatments. Many clients who’ve never purchased products in the salon are more open to trying professional products since they weren’t spending money on services during the lockdowns. For us, it starts with the consultation. They don’t want to come in to do their hair and not be able to keep up with it; it’s an investment. Also, at the end of the service is a good time because by the time you’re done with the service, they love their hair, are happy and they trust you.” — Reema Jaber, owner of Hair by Reema, Mississauga, Ont.

Sharing is Caring “I find that clients with long hair often don’t realize that their hair can be eight years old or more. That’s years of them brushing it and applying heat, so if they don’t take care of it, it’s not going to be magically healthy. You need to help them be engaged with taking care of their hair. For a colour correction, clients need to be aware of all the products they need to buy to rebuild the hydration and keep their hair strong and healthy.” — Nadia Abouwaked, hairstylist and colourist at Effusion Artiste Coiffeur, Montreal

“WITH SO MUCH ONLINE EDUCATION AVAILABLE, IT’S NOT JUST ABOUT PEOPLE LEARNING FORMULAS BUT IT’S ALSO ABOUT UNDERSTANDING PLACEMENT AND HOW IT WILL GIVE YOUR CLIENT THE DIMENSION THEY WANT.” — TELESA BROWN, COLOUR SPECIALIST AND JOICO EDUCATOR, CALGARY

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Mentoring For All Find out how Matrix’s Mentor.Me program is helping stylists and students transform their careers.

n a year when virtual learning has become the new norm, Matrix is taking education to new heights with the launch of Mentor.Me, a program connecting hairstylists and students with two of its leading educators, Heidi Kenney and Julio Rodriguez. After asking hairstylists and students from across Canada to submit a three-minute video and samples of their work this past spring, a total of 20 winners (10 students and 10 stylists) were selected to participate in this sixmonth mentorship program. “I was looking for people who are hungry to grow and learn, and have stories behind their careers,” says Kenney, who is mentoring the stylists. “I’ve been teaching for a long time and I think this is the most excited group I’ve ever taught!” “The students I chose are very special and all have one common thread and it’s the willingness to learn,” says Rodriguez. “I want them to understand that in this industry there are many roles they can take, and as professional hairdressers, they must continually be learning.”

Back to Basics “Julio and I had the opportunity to create the content, and we wanted to bring it back to the fundamentals of hair,” says Kenney. “Most people think they are savvy, but when you really get into it and talk about the pH of a product, the fundamentals of hair and why things work the way they do, everybody seems to have a lot of aha moments.” Stylists had the opportunity to participate in a series of timed activities, including a root retouch and foil placement, before ending the day with a discussion about consultations. For the students, Rodriguez asked them to create primary, secondary and tertiary colours using Matrix’s SoColor Cult direct dye shades on blonde swatches. “When they understand what a secondary and tertiary shade is comprised of when it comes to formulating with real hair colour, they’ll have an understanding of what it’s made up of,” he says. “Some of my students haven’t even been able to do hair colour yet—depending on their school

Each Mentor.Me Stylist and Mentor.Me Student virtual class is held on a monthly basis, and the mentees have the opportunity for one-on-one virtual coaching sessions with Heidi Kenney and Julio Rodriguez.

and where they’re based—so they were happy to be doing colour for the first time.” For their homework assignment, Rodriguez asked his mentees to create a colour wheel to help them with identifying shades. “You still have to know colour theory, but sometimes you have to break the rules and understand why that’s sometimes necessary,” he says. “What students are learning in school

“In this industry, if you know something you should share it. The more elevated our skills are, the more money we can make and hairdressers can build careers and not just jobs.” — HEIDI KENNEY, NATIONAL COLOUR MASTER AND MENTOR FOR MATRIX

Also offered: Classes with special guest mentors including Matrix’s global artistic director, Michelle O’Connor!

Sponsored by

Education’s With digital learning continuing to be in high demand, we spoke with some of the industry’s leading educators about their thoughts on the rise (and fall) of virtual education, and what it means for the future of live classes in our industry.

From the beginning of the pandemic, guidelines and restrictions forced hairstylists and beauty pros to be more adaptable than ever. And while many took to virtual learning so quickly, the fact remains that there are just as many who can’t wait to get back to live, in-person education. “Stylists are absolutely itching to get back to face-to-face interaction again,” says Stephen Moody, North American education director for Wella Company. “Virtual will never replace hands-on learning but I think it will begin to supplement live education and make face-to-face classes more productive.” Since digital education continues to be our new reality (at least for the time being), we checked in with leading education experts for their thoughts on education moving forward, and how a virtual/live education hybrid approach may be in our future.

38 salonmagazine.ca / September 2021

Virtual Struggles

The pandemic brought on a sudden need for virtual education since it was the only way to continue teaching and learning during the lockdowns. While most professionals adapted quickly, there were a variety of challenges to manage, including poor Internet connection and low engagement rates. “There was no encyclopedia when it came to adjusting to virtual education at the start of the pandemic,” says Terry Ritcey, director of education and events for Redken Canada. “There was no guidance on how to maximize engagement or how to translate something live into this two-dimensional space, and while the learning curve was enormous, the pandemic taught us how to accelerate and adapt. And while the brand has had a longstanding goal to produce more digital education, Ritcey adds that they never suspected the approach would be forced. “We quickly realized that virtual learning doesn’t suit everybody and it’s not how everyone learns best. Even our best live educators were iffy about teaching [and consuming] digital

“LIVE EDUCATION ALLOWS YOU TO FEEL THE ENERGY IN THE ROOM AND AUDIENCE INTERACTION. AS MUCH AS WE DO OUR BEST TO OFFER A SIMILAR EXPERIENCE VIRTUALLY, IT’S STILL NOT THE SAME AS BEING THERE IN THE MOMENT.” — TERRI SCHWENDEMANN, DIRECTOR OF EDUCATION AND CREATIVE DEVELOPMENT FOR OLIGO PROFESSIONNEL

PHOTOS: GETTY STOCK

BY SAMI CHAZONOFF

New Normal education but luckily, we had some that caught on super fast and ran with it.” For some, the thought of achieving the same energy and engagement levels in a virtual class as in a live class seemed impossible, but many brands eventually found their groove. “We all thrive on live communication and interaction, so the adjustment wasn’t easy,” says Terri Schwendemann, director of education and creative development for Oligo Professionnel. “Our team brings their passion and excitement to every live class, which in a virtual environment is much different— particularly in a webinar platform where we cannot see or hear the attendees. We quickly learned the importance of having multiple team members active during our virtual classes to heighten the energy. They were also able to interact quickly with Q&As to encourage increased class participation.” According to Susan Boccia, education manager for Schwarzkopf Professional Canada, virtual education presented some downfalls but the biggest one for their team was missing out on interpersonal interaction. “We had to condense our education sessions, which in person would be full day seminars, to just an hour or so and I

think stylists really missed that handson coaching that gets lost in a virtual class,” she says. “The upside was that by condensing our classes they were more concise, which appealed to our stylists— particularly the younger generations that just want quick snippets of information.” John Moroney, global creative director for Kao Salon Division, says not being able to interact in-person with other stylists was difficult for their educators. “We’re all used to that interaction and we thrive on it,” he says. “Every education seminar I’d ever been to in my career had always been hands-on or at least in-person. For creatives, it’s important to be face-to-face. It’s not just visual or auditory, it’s kinesthetic and that’s how we learn. Hairstylists were simply not used to sitting and watching something as a means of education, but their hunger for knowledge helped them adapt fairly quickly. It became greater than any challenges they faced.” He adds that he thinks the shift from live to virtual may have been easier for hairstylists. “Our stylists are used to being very education-intensive and they were ready to learn at home. The pivot on our part came from having to suddenly teach our educators to conduct a class virtually rather than in-person.”

“WE’RE PEOPLE WHO DEAL WITH PEOPLE, AND AS AMAZING AS VIRTUAL EDUCATION IS AND WE’RE LUCKY TO HAVE THAT OPTION, HAIRSTYLISTS ARE ITCHING TO WORK WITH PEOPLE AND SEE THEIR EDUCATORS AND COLLEAGUES IN PERSON AGAIN.” — STEPHEN MOODY, NORTH AMERICAN EDUCATION DIRECTOR FOR WELLA COMPANY

The Future of Education

Although many stylists are longing to get back to live education and brands are aiming to fulfil that desire, focusing solely on virtual education for the past year has brought to light some of live education’s pain points. It’s also prompted brands to think of ways to incorporate both mediums in their curriculums moving forward. “There has definitely been an increased demand for live education recently. This year of isolation has been difficult for all of us, so this comes as no surprise, especially considering that stylists are energetic, personable and active individuals who seek face-toface connection,” says Schwendemann. “However, in listening to our customers and seeking their opinions, we believe that a combination of both live and virtual classes is a must. Recorded classes are important to accommodate busy schedules for offering necessary training to those who may not have access to the scheduled live class due to location or timing. Our goal is to support all education needs, with both live and virtual options.” ➤

Oligo Professionnel intends on offering in-person education (as well as increasing their academy offerings) very soon. While they’re continuing to carefully watch each region’s COVID guidelines, their team has started planning events and classes and are excited about getting back into the field.

salonmagazine.ca / September 2021 39

travel and time zones—along with the fact that it’s much more budget-friendly for students and teachers—he believes stylists are over it. “I think stylists have watched all the YouTube and Instagram videos, attended all the virtual classes and Zoom sessions possible, and some have even started doing other things while watching them, like cook dinner or read emails. It’s causing a lot of disengagement,” he says. “There is absolutely no replacement for me standing next to a hairstylist and doing a consultation on someone with them—it’s this triangle conversation between the client, the hairstylist and me. Going through a two-hour, step-by-step

Schwarzkopf Professional will be offering hands-on, face-to-face education and product knowledge classes! They will maintain a schedule of weekly virtual education in both English and French, but are looking forward to reintegrating live classes into their upcoming calendar!

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says that as much as it has its pros, live learning has cons, including travel time, expenses, scheduling conflicts and more. “No matter the challenges or costs that live education poses, stylists are wanting to get back to it,” he says. “Hairstylists are fearless. As soon as they’re allowed back—safely and following protocols— they’re going to be there.” While Moody agrees that virtual education is more convenient because it can be scheduled without impacting

Kao’s commitment to in-person creative and skill-building education is stronger than ever, thanks to the August 2021 reopening of the brand’s flagship Kao Salon Academy in Toronto. While their live programs are in high demand (some have already sold out!), they’re excited to continue to offer online education to students who prefer a virtual learning experience.

haircut, colour or blow-dry with one-onone direction just can’t be replaced.” “We know that digital learning has its place and is here to stay in some capacity, but when it comes to virtual learning, we’re hearing a lot of ‘enough already,’” says Ritcey. “It’s tough because you can’t really exceed three hours, even with great engagement. Whereas in a live education class, you do a hands-on technique with a mannequin head where you’re painting colour on, and a day flies by and stylists love it. Something like hair colour education is difficult online—you need to see it, touch it, and smell it whereas something like business education is a bit more translatable to a digital platform. There can be room for both.”

PHOTOS: STEPHEN MOODY, OLIGO PROFESSIONNEL

While live education has proven to be less crucial when it comes to product knowledge or colour theory, for creative education and techniques, participating in hands-on work is critical. Because, as Boccia says, “There’s really nothing like live education.” “Unless the stylist has a mannequin or model in front of them and they’re playing with colour or doing a haircut or styling technique at the same time, that type of education isn’t as feasible virtually,” she says. “I also think the interaction between humans—the contact from an educator’s point of view—is incomparable. Getting the feedback and reaction from the audience when you’re in front of a live classroom or on the stage at a live show is just not the same in front of a computer. It feels like one-way communication and it’s hard.” While virtual education is key for reaching the largest number of stylists in the shortest amount of time, Moroney

Beginning in January 2022, in-person education seminars will resume at Wella Studio Toronto. Between January and June, the Toronto academy will be offering trend-based cutting and colour seminars and more classes. Digital education will resume through their virtual classrooms, social media and Wella Studio online platform.

Learning Continues

No matter how stylists prefer to learn or grow their knowledge, education leaders agree that as long as they’re utilizing the method that best suits them, that’s what matters. “It’s important to never stop learning or investing time in your education,” says Schwendemann. “Even if I consider myself to know much in an area, I will continue to keep myself sharp by attending classes or learning and listening to others. Attending classes, surrounding ourselves with others within the industry and being informed keeps our passion alive and our creativity flowing.” “If you stop learning, you might as well quit,” says Moroney. “I think the best thing about ongoing education is making mistakes and being in a safe environment where you can experiment and learn. Whether you’re cutting or colouring hair, you have to be in a place where you do it wrong a couple of times, so you learn to not do that again.” According to Boccia, since the industry is always changing with products, clients wants/needs, technology and trends, it’s important to stay current. Stylists who don’t will

be at risk of losing existing clients and minimize their potential for attracting new ones. “Our confidence in being a wellrounded stylist or hair artist comes with continuing to learn and grow,” she says. “The day I stop learning is the day that I’ll probably need to rethink my career path or somehow remotivate myself.” As a leader in education, Moody knows the importance of continuing to study throughout your career, keeping up with trends and always being prepared. “There’s only one thing for sure in the

Get to the Point! Moody says that most hairstylists prefer doing over listening and watching. Long before the pandemic arrived, he would discuss as much as possible with the stylists over the phone in advance of hands-on learning. In doing so, stylists would take much more away from a session, and they’d also reap the benefits of both virtual and live learning!

hair business and it’s that today won’t be the same as yesterday,” he says. “If you look at the most successful hairstylists, there’s one common denominator and that’s their love for education.” “Education is a lifeline,” says Ritcey. “Even business education is crucial, wherein you’re teaching somebody how to properly prebook guests. Every type of learning is valuable and meant to strengthen stylists and salon professionals, making sure they’re as profitable as they can be behind the chair and beyond.”

“EDUCATION IS LIKE THE PR OF OUR INDUSTRY—IT’S WHAT WINS THE HEARTS AND MINDS OF THE STYLISTS. IT CREATES A HUNGER AND DESIRE IN THEM TO CONSTANTLY BE LEARNING AND EXPERIENCING NEW THINGS.” — JOHN MORONEY, GLOBAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR, KAO SALON DIVISION salonmagazine.ca / September 2021 41

(RE)STARTING OVER After facing the longest lockdown in the country, we spoke with Ontario-based salon owners to find out how they’ve been navigating the pandemic, and the business changes they’ve made that will be sticking around—for good. BY VERONICA BOODHAN

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Making Financial Sense

While some owners were able to benefit from the federal government’s business subsidies, for many salon workers, there was a heavy reliance on employment insurance (E.I.) or the Canada Recovery Benefit (CRB), which, in reality, are a mere fraction of what many hairdressers actually earn while working behind the chair. “We’ve been fortunate that our business was able to benefit from the government’s help. Without it, I don’t know if we would still be open today to be honest,” says Felice Valvano, coowner of Valvano Salon and Spa in St. Catharines, Ont., which was closed for more than four months. “We felt the most pain for our staff. Those who weren’t eligible for federal help did go out and do things on their own, but we were fortunate that they wanted to come back and work in a salon environment again.” Donato also empathized with his staff’s challenges. Acknowledging that the ones who only qualified for CRB did not receive enough money to cover their rent or bills over the course of

seven months, he supported his staff’s decisions to find temporary jobs and new sources of income. “I think our industry has already lost a lot of talent to other industries because they realize they can work part-time— doing hair out of their house—while working on another career,” he says. “For anybody who’s been on the fence about their career in the industry, this has definitely pushed them out.” For Lisa Dinh, owner of Lisa Dinh

Donato, whose salons are located in some of the country’s largest malls, wasn’t able to enter his businesses during the lockdown. He was in the process of relocating his Mississaugabased salon in Square One Shopping Centre until nonessential construction was halted during the lockdown.

PHOTOS: GETTY STOCK

Though the pandemic’s lockdowns have impacted salons across Canada, there’s no question that the province that’s been hardest hit is Ontario. For salons in Toronto and Peel region, this meant being closed from the end of November 2020 to June 2021. And while the longawaited reopening news helped owners breathe a sigh of relief, there continues to be a lot of work left to do. “Our industry is in shambles right now. It’s been disrupted beyond return for some people,” says John Donato, owner of Donato Salon + Spa in Toronto, Etobicoke and Mississauga. “Operating at a 50 per cent capacity right now is not enough for us to fully get back on our feet. All that’s happening is that salon owners and hairdressers are getting squeezed on their profits, so hairdressers need to start thinking more like businesspeople.”

“AS AN OWNER, IT’S IMPORTANT TO WORK ON YOUR BUSINESS AS OPPOSED TO JUST WORKING IN YOUR BUSINESS.” — FELICE VALVANO, CO-OWNER OF VALVANO SALON, ST. CATHARINES, ONT.

Hair Studio in Toronto, the experience she gained from the first lockdown ended up being vital for both her and her staff when it came to making sound financial decisions. “I learned to make sure there’s enough of a safety budget for the salon,” she says. “This time I was more prepared because we had already gone through it. Financially, we were lucky to be able to sustain everything—we made sure we took on all the loans and grants we could that helped keep us afloat. Keeping extra funds in case it happened again, which it did, was a good decision for us, and is something I’ll continue to do from now on for the future.”

Service Updates

From extending their hours of operation to changing their service menus, pricing and more, salon owners were forced to take a hard look at their business and identify opportunities to be more profitable—with the hopes of recouping as much of their lost revenue as possible. Some business owners found creative ways to earn extra revenue, even while working under lower capacity limits and other restrictions. “With the capacity limits in place, it’s been tricky with how many people are allowed in the salon, while each of us are only working on one client at a time right now,” says Dinh. “As a team, we no longer do shifts, every stylist has a full day, and it’s two clients a day for the colour we do. We’ve extended our colour services to five hours to make sure to allocate enough time before we start the next client.” In addition to adding extra time to services, Valvano and his team updated their service menu structure from an a-la-carte style to fixed pricing. “This [lockdown] really gave us the opportunity to analyze how to make improvements that we always wanted to implement but never really had the time to,” he says. “We noticed a lot of times in the past when we would try to break [our prices] down to the clients for full

Like many salon owners, Dinh implemented a fee last year to offset the additional costs of PPE and sanitization. However, she says she has since removed the fee as she considers the extra PPE and cleaning supplies to be a new standard in the industry.

disclosure, it opened up an option for them to say they didn’t want something. It creates a problem because, in order to give that client the perfect end result we, as hairdressers, know what’s needed but clients don’t always understand that. So now it’s one price that includes everything.” “On a business end, it increased the price by five or 10 dollars without it being in the hands of the hairdresser,” adds Valvano. “I think, as a whole, hairdressers are afraid to raise their prices and they feel they have to justify it. You really need to take a hard look at your business and determine what it really costs you to run it, and what it takes to be really profitable.” ➤ salonmagazine.ca / September 2021 43

a shortage of hairdressers and massive shortage of great salons, so my advice is to work on making your salon greater and charge your worth.”

Finding Balance

As salons work on catching up on their backlog of appointments, Donato says a big issue he’s noticed is the increase of clients either not showing up or cancelling their appointments at the last minute. “Many clients aren’t being loyal— they’re calling five salons and booking appointments to see where they can get in sooner,” he says. “When a hairstylist

PRO TIP IN ADDITION TO RAISING THEIR PRICES, DONATO HAS IMPLEMENTED A $50 DEPOSIT POLICY THAT’S APPLIED AT THE TIME OF BOOKING TO HELP DETER NO-SHOWS.

44 salonmagazine.ca / September 2021

has six or eight clients on their books and only four of them show up, that’s devastating. And when you want to try and fill that space, you can’t. Meanwhile, you have a waiting list of people trying to get in, yet people are not honouring their appointments.” “I’m watching it closely because I’m seriously considering asking for the full price of the service to be paid for upfront,” adds Donato. “Many hairdressers are afraid to do something that others are not, but what they’re not realizing right now is there’s no competition out there—we’re only competing with ourselves. There’s

PHOTOS: GETTY STOCK, CREDIT CARD BY CUPUTO FROM THE NOUN PROJECT

During the lockdown, Valvano and his team introduced an e-commerce platform via Shopify to retail their salon’s own haircare brand and gift cards. In addition, they changed their pay structure to allow their staff to earn bonuses and incentives for reaching specific goals, including for take-home product sales.

While many salon owners dealt with three-month shutdowns last year, the most recent lockdown has brought a new set of challenges. “It took a bigger toll on us and it forced a lot of salon owners to focus more on their overall mental health,” says Dinh. “I talked to a lot of salon owners during the time off and many of them have been focusing on the continued challenges of being closed for so long.” On the bright side, this lockdown was the first extended break in years for many salon owners and hairstylists, and encouraged people to look at their daily work life with a new perspective. Case in point: The concept of doublebooking, which has been advised against throughout the pandemic due to social-distancing guidelines, and as a result has provided hairstylists with a more open schedule. “I think the silver lining in all of this is taking care of ourselves and our clients without burning out, which is a huge problem in our industry,” says Dinh. “Working on one client at a time preserves the energy of the stylist but also of the work for the client because the stylist has more time to reset.” “Coming back this time around, I noticed our team has become even stronger,” she adds. “I think because of the closure and time off, there’s more teamwork and it’s a far more supportive environment right now.”

CO LLE CTIO NS

September

An inspiring selection of hairstyles that will motivate you to take your craft to the next level. salonmagazine.ca / July/August 2018 45

Collections — HARMONY

This British collection is inspired by modern, authentic and diverse beauty that embraces classic hairdressing techniques.

HAIR Robert Eaton, Russell Eaton, U.K. MAKEUP Lucy Flower WARDROBE STYLING Clare Frith PHOTOS Richard Miles

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salonmagazine.ca / September 2021 47

Collections — THE DOLLS

Inspired by casual 1970s poolside vibes, the powerful looks in this British collection pay homage to icons of that decade.

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HAIR Callum Standen-May, StandenMay, U.K. MAKEUP Maddie Austin WARDROBE STYLING Callum Standen-May PHOTOS Richard Miles salonmagazine.ca / September 2021 49

Collections — COLOUR POP

An array of textured styles, vibrant ’dos and voluminous looks infuse this British collection with a carefree edge.

HAIR Andrew Smith, Andrew Smith Salons, U.K. MAKEUP Louise Lerego WARDROBE STYLING Magdalena Jacobs PHOTOS Richard Miles

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salonmagazine.ca / September 2021 51

Collections — DREAMING

Dramatic texture and volume combine in this bold and edgy Canadian collection.

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CONTESSA 2021 FINALIST, ELITE MASTER HAIRSTYLIST Julie Vriesinga,

Salon Entrenous, London, Ont. MAKEUP Florencia Taylor WARDROBE STYLING Julie Vriesinga PHOTOS Paula Tizzard salonmagazine.ca / September 2021 53

#ContessaAwards

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When Inspiration Strikes… When it comes to drawing inspiration for the looks and collections she creates, Wall says she’s often inspired by various things (and people), but nature and fashion are her top sources. “Where I live, I overlook the ocean and see the most beautiful skies, which always inspire my work,” she says. “I’ve also always loved fashion and follow [trends] closely. I love to see what shapes, materials and colours designers will pull each season and believe that fashion and hair go hand in hand!” She says she also loves to work with colour, and especially bolder tones. “Behind the chair, my clients typically request more commercial looks, so when I get to do creative work, I tend to gravitate towards a palette consisting of brighter tones or soft pastel shades,” she says. “Some of my favourite looks to create are blondes with pastel tones and I love cutting bobs.”

Eryn Wall As a hairstylist for 18 years and a salon owner for more than seven, Eryn Wall still has the same passion for her craft—and competing—as she did when she first began her career. “Early on, I was interested in competition and entered every student and newcomer competition I could find,” says Wall, who owns The Headroom Salon and Spa in Paradise, Nfld. “Competition is a natural part of the industry for me, and I think it keeps a level of excitement for us stylists.” Having placed as a finalist in the Atlantic Hairstylist category at the 32nd annual Contessa Awards, Wall has won several awards throughout her career. She currently works as a design team member for Wella Professionals and is a national educator for Great Lengths Extensions, which she incorporated into one of her Contessa looks. 56 salonmagazine.ca / September 2021

Bold Creations When creating this collection, Wall says she was inspired by an exaggerated and bright sunrise. “I went with bold, bright colours for the sunrise effect, and the softness of pastel pinks to represent a summer sunset,” she says. “The dark midnight sky was created using darker plums and dark velvet greens. I dressed the models in relaxed, oversized collared shirts as the vibe was relaxed and sensual.” For her first image (the long-haired look), Wall says she wanted a bright and bold colour palette, so she used Wella’s Color Fresh Create line and a colour blocking technique. “For the cut, I wanted a bold fringe with a super-heavy weight line almost to the eyes, with layers

On the Bright Side As a salon owner, Wall says she was certainly impacted by both the COVID-19 pandemic and her province’s two shutdowns, but she took the time to re-evaluate her business and focus on offering online education. “This shift to online education showed the commitment of our industry, and that even though we can’t be with each other in person, we don’t have to stop doing what we love,” she says. “I think that has been very powerful.”

TEXT: SAMI CHAZONOFF; HAIR & WARDROBE STYLING: ERYN WALL, THE HEADROOM SALON & SPA, PARADISE, NFLD., MAKEUP: MICHALE KANE, PHOTOS: ALAIN COMTOIS

directed forward to create a face-framing effect and some softness,” she explains. “For the fringe, I used High Magenta— one of my favourites—and applied the same colour in large panels throughout the hair, alternating with yellow to make some bright pops. Finally, I applied three bundles of Great Lengths 20-inch extensions to my model’s hair to add more density and length.”

“I love to be creative, and hair is such an amazing canvas. Things are always growing and evolving in this industry; there are so many new techniques and products, which means we’re always learning and being kept on our toes.”

salonmagazine.ca / September 2021 57

Find out how this leading hair colour educator from Redlands, California got her start, and why she thinks ongoing learning is so important. BY SAMI CHAZONOFF

Lupe Voss’ Career Timeline 1982

Graduated cosmetology school

1988

Opened Julian August salon

1998

Aveda Hair Color Trainer

2003

Started Hair Color Magic (education program)

2003-2019

Aveda “Purefessional” mentor

2019

Aveda North American art director

2021

Co-Founded Color Space

58 salonmagazine.ca / September 2021

Tell us about how you got your start in the industry. I’ve been doing hair for about 38 years, but I never saw it coming. I wanted to be a pilot in the Air Force, but my father didn’t want me to go to military school. I come from a family of hairdressers, so I landed into cosmetology school. I figured I would do that while determining what I actually wanted to do, but I ended up absolutely loving it. I still remember falling in love with the chemistry part of it all: I would go to school during the day and work in the lab at night, where we would mix colour. I also remember the moment I fell in love with the industry as a whole: I had my first customer and as scared as I was touching, cutting and changing someone’s hair at the time, I knew it could change their life. Maybe just for an hour or even a day, but there’s this magic about the relationship hairstylists have with their clients and I thought, “I can really do this.” You’ve become known for your education and it’s obvious that it’s something you’re passionate about. How and when did that start? In 1988, my husband and I opened our salon, Julian August (which closed during the pandemic) and at the time, I couldn’t find education that was suitable for my team so I started teaching them myself and I really liked it—I could see how it was changing their lives. I didn’t just want to teach—there are many ways in which people learn so I wanted to study the different ways so I could properly communicate with them. When I was in school, my teachers taught me how to do a colour placement and a cut but I wasn’t taught what I needed in order to grow. There was no system or anything behind those techniques and that’s one of the reasons why I wanted to get into education— because I wanted to create that [system]

for my team, and I ended up really enjoying it. To see someone grow in their craft is super rewarding. I became a trainer for Aveda, got some great stage opportunities, and was entrusted with being a mentor for their “Purefessionals” team of educators. I eventually started Hair Color Magic, an education program, after noticing there was a big hole in our industry. When a colour company goes into a salon and teaches their products, they teach how to use their products while cosmetology school teaches stylists how to pass [tests for licensing], but people are not learning the craft—they’re not understanding why products work the way they do and the chemistry behind them. Once you understand that, you can actually adjust a product yourself. I started realizing that people didn’t know how to formulate, and once I started [educating people], I couldn’t stop—I kept finding holes where we, as an industry, needed more education, and kept trying to find ways to fill those holes. The pandemic has caused lots of changes in the industry and a big one has been the shift from live education to virtual. Do you think there will be a place for both in the future? I had a feeling [with the rise of social media and since the start of the pandemic] that virtual education was something that would always be around, but I really believe we are still going to have both [live and virtual education]. When I was studying how people learn, I discovered there are different learner types. Some people are visual

PHOTOS: COLOR SPACE

Profile – LUPE VOSS

Making Space

that has to do with product training and education, and I trust him completely on the business side. Our strengths really complement each other, we have a great balance of what we each do, and we have a lot of respect for one another. What advice do you have for someone who’s just starting out in the industry and is hoping to make an impact? Never stop learning. We’re only as good as our last hair colour, and you should get into the habit of critiquing your own work. Look at a colour you’re working on, take a step back—no matter how beautiful it is—and ask yourself what you can do next time to make it even better.

and audio learners that can actually see and hear and turn around and do the technique—they can understand the formulations really fast. Others learn by physically doing something, learn from their mistakes and adjust and then turn it on a dime—then they can watch it again and hear it. They just need to do it themselves first. Both platforms are important for our industry and cater to different types of learners. As long as we’re practicing our craft, I think there’s a place for any and all education! You recently collaborated with Ray Civello and launched Color Space, a new colour line. Tell us a bit more about it and why education plays such a big role in the company’s story. We knew we wanted to revolutionize our industry. We are coming out of such a bad period [due to the pandemic], and

we want to give people more hope and help them reignite their passion. We want to give them something new and innovative, and Color Space is all about creating something new. It’s not just about teaching the products because anybody can do that, but what we want to teach is even deeper: The chemistry of colour, how it works and how we see colour. It’s not just about teaching product—it’s about teaching craft, which is why education plays such a large role in what we do. Ray has such a strong foundation in business and what’s really cool about him and all the people we work with is that they’re all in the industry, whether they’re managing or working behind the chair. Ray is very well-rounded and his intuition for business is super keen while I’m on the other side with education, growing a team and understanding chemistry. He relies on me for anything

Why do you think continuing education is so important for stylists at all stages of their careers? Our industry is full of craftspeople, and a craftsman has to practice and keep up with what’s new. Through the years, colour hasn’t changed much but now we’re getting all these new dye molecules and products. If we don’t stay current on the chemistry behind these changes and the innovations that are happening, we’re not going to grow as an industry. It’s a craft and we have to practice if we want to keep being inspired. There’s a difference between motivation and inspiration; you can be motivated to do something but if you get tired, you get tired—motivation means you have the momentum to do something. Being inspired changes you spiritually. There’s something that happens that will change a habit, that will shift how you see things, that will change a paradigm, that will take you to the next level. You can’t teach that to someone, though—they have to have it but continuing to learn throughout your career helps keep you inspired. What else can we expect from you? I want to do more photo work. I want to grow the company and I want to be innovative with our products. I love doing stage work. I will always teach— whether it be online or in a classroom.

salonmagazine.ca / September 2021 59

Losing staff to other salons, chair rentals, salon suites, freelance or even underground opportunities can be difficult to navigate. These tips from business and salon industry experts can help.

Losing salon staff is not a new occurrence brought on by the pandemic—hairstylists have always moved around and sought out new opportunities—but this phenomenon has sadly been heightened by COVID lockdowns. It makes sense that salon owners are looking for ways to cut their losses while minimizing and preventing future turnover. “Independent contractors have been part of our industry for as long as I can remember,” says Peter Mahoney, president of Salon Resource Group in Dartmouth, N.S. “However, I do believe that their number is on the rise, as are suite business numbers in recent years, which has been escalating even more due to the pandemic.”

Branching Out It’s important for salon owners to create an enticing environment that encourages their staff to stay, but it’s also important to identify and understand the reasons they may leave in the first place. In doing so, you can address any challenges and hopefully prevent more staff from leaving in the future. “If a stylist leaves their salon for an alternative work environment, it usually means their salon wasn’t keeping an interesting enough space. Some stylists leave because they think there are better opportunities or they’ll make more money [going off on their own], but it’s usually not the case. If you’re working as a freelancer or independently, you’re not getting exposed to the same educational opportunities and you’re going to fall behind.” — Lance Nielsen, co-owner of Element Hair, Waterloo, Ont.

“AT THE END OF THE DAY, YOU MUST STRUCTURE YOUR BUSINESS IN A WAY THAT MAKES PEOPLE FEEL CRAZY TO NOT WORK FOR YOU. IT’S ALL ABOUT THE TEAM AND CULTURE. BY BUILDING AND RETAINING YOUR STAFF, YOU WILL HAVE A GROWING BUSINESS.” — ROBERT CROMEANS, GLOBAL ARTISTIC AND BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT DIRECTOR FOR JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS, AND OWNER OF ROBERT CROMEANS SALONS, SAN DIEGO, CA 60 salonmagazine.ca / September 2021

“The primary reasons why employees were leaving salons pre-COVID had to do with lack of flexibility and the inability to understand how to earn a pay increase. A lot of stylists working in traditional, commission-based salons struggle with growing their income as a lot of independent salons aren’t structured, but I think what complicated things is when COVID hit. Large salons with 20 to 30 service providers working under one roof in a closed space caused a lot of workers to reconsider their environment. We started seeing a migration to a simpler concept—like a suite where stylists don’t have to worry about anyone but themselves, or to smaller, independent salons with natural light, a street entrance and other things that signify ‘freedom.’” — Peter Mahoney, president of Salon Resource Group, Dartmouth, N.S.

Shifting Gears Saying goodbye to employees can be difficult but the pandemic has caused a lot of uncertainty for many people in both their personal and professional lives. Whether stylists are leaving to work underground or to gain independence, it’s up to salon owners to reconsider their business model and make their salons an attractive environment for their staff.

TEXT: SAMI CHAZONOFF, PHOTO: GETTY STOCK BRANCH BY RICHARD SLATER, SHIFT GEAR BY MELLO, GROUP BY ADRIEN COQUET, STRUCTURE BY VIRAL FAISALOVERS FROM THE NOUN PROJECT, TRANSPARENT BY LEIF MICHELSEN, FLEXIBLE BY ADBA ICONS, BRIDGE BY DANIELE CATALANOTTO FROM THE NOUN PROJECT

Business —

Tough Loss

“Millennials and Gen Zs are entrepreneurial generations. They don’t want to work for somebody, but would rather work with somebody. They want to do more than just work; they want to be part of something and have a cause and purpose. Today, if a salon doesn’t have a passion or a vision, they’re not going to keep young people interested for long. If you look at the traditional commission-based salon, oftentimes it’s not really led, it’s managed. There are a set of rules meant to be followed and there’s a lack of flexibility and that just doesn’t work today.” — Peter Mahoney, president of Salon Resource Group, Dartmouth, N.S. “Some stylists did not return to the salon after the lockdowns because they were more comfortable doing hair at home or got used to the flexibility. Most of our losses end up going to freelance rather than to other salons, because they’re searching for that independence. A stylist leaving doesn’t just impact the team but also the habit cycle of clientele. For years, stylists have stacked and packed clients, and were racing to get hair done. The pandemic has taught us to slow down and spend quality time with clients. In turn, we’re seeing higher client tickets and happier staff. I always say hairstylists are nicer when they’re working with fewer people. This forced shift was a win-win.” — Robert Cromeans, global artistic and business development director for John Paul Mitchell Systems, and owner of Robert Cromeans Salons, San Diego, CA

Coping Mechanisms Although it can be devastating to have staff leave for other industry opportunities, salon owners are finding ways to deal with the change. “I encourage salon owners to reach out to other owners and form a group or hold occasional meetings. We’ve done it with several other salons, and it’s involved discussing what’s going on in the industry, talking about staffing changes and more. People learn from it, get ideas and inspiration, which leads to them implementing what they learned in their salon.” — Lance Nielsen, co-owner of Element Hair, Waterloo, Ont.

“Stylists leave for various reasons and I tell salon owners that moving forward, the goal should be to recruit 365 days a year. It’s sad to see staff go but people moving on is part of the business and we’ve got to protect ourselves and be prepared, so do virtual interviews, advertise, and think outside the box. A friend of mine lost 73 employees during the pandemic, which is sad but it’s happening. Larger salons have huge turnover and the way they deal with it is by recruiting even more, and I think we need to be doing the same.” — Robert Cromeans, global artistic and business development director for John Paul Mitchell Systems, and owner of Robert Cromeans Salons, San Diego, CA

Business —

“The pandemic has created this new dynamic in the industry, giving hairstylists a lot of time to sit around and think about what they’re doing. It’s also created an underground economy, which isn’t beneficial for our industry. What salons need to do now is create a dynamic, encouraging and educational environment so that people don’t want to leave. Salons need to take a good look at themselves and make their offerings attractive for staff to come and stay. It’s about money but it’s also about relating to your staff, helping them gain confidence and keeping the education going.” — Lance Nielsen, co-owner of Element Hair, Waterloo, Ont.

Tips for Retaining Staff If you want to keep your employees, here’s how to focus on making your salon an attractive place to work while zeroing in on your staff’s needs.

Structure is Key “We have created a positive, encouraging environment in our salon while providing support, systems and structure. Some salons don’t have enough structure and many young people want it because that’s part of what gives them confidence. I think for the most part, stylists need that supportive environment and need to be continually exposed to educational opportunities.” — Lance Nielsen, co-owner of Element Hair, Waterloo, Ont. Be Transparent “If you’re going to build a commission-based salon today, you need to be 100 per cent transparent with your people and share your numbers and vision. We like to say we’re not in the business of cutting and colouring hair; we’re in the business of growing people.” — Peter Mahoney, president of Salon Resource Group, Dartmouth, N.S.

Offer Flexibility “People want flexibility these days and salon owners need to pay attention to that. Show your stylists you can be flexible on upcoming schedules. I have more part-timers in my business than ever before and everybody in my salon has a key. If a client wanted something done but we’re closed late at night or early in the morning, there’s no limitation. People want the benefits of being an employee, but more importantly, they want freedom. Providing them with both is exactly how you keep them!” — Robert Cromeans, global artistic and business development director for John Paul Mitchell Systems, and owner of Robert Cromeans Salons, California Build Bridges “Don’t just show your staff that your salon is a good place to start a career—show them it’s a good place to finish. Show stylists all the opportunities they have available to them. Is there a path above and beyond working behind the chair? How does one become part of the leadership team? All of these things are critically important today.” — Peter Mahoney, president of Salon Resource Group, Dartmouth, N.S.

salonmagazine.ca / September 2021 61

Interiors — STUDIO SO LARA

Glitz and Glamour Take a look inside Studio So Lara’s third location, which serves up the same luxury services but in a new and uniquely designed space. BY SAMI CHAZONOFF

Lay of the Land Leckie worked with interior designer Giovanna Greco from Proggetti Inc., a Toronto-based interior design studio, to bring the space to life. Although Leckie had experience in helping design her two other locations, she says the process for this one was different, especially since this one is her largest location. It also has a more rectangular design that ended up working in her favour. “All the sinks were down the middle of the salon and stations were on either side,” she says. “The design worked so well for COVID—the fact that the sinks are down the centre ➤

62 salonmagazine.ca / September 2021

PHOTOS: KIELY RAMOS PHOTOGRAPHY

While this salon is owner Lara Leckie’s third salon and newest location, she wanted to make sure it would have its own unique vibe and feel. “It’s definitely a challenge having three locations and creating a brand,” she says. “People have noticed that we’ve changed our design so that each space looks different in its details and textures, but still has a cohesive look, so you know you’re in a Studio So Lara when you get there. I just wanted to create spaces for people to work who love to do hair, and to make people feel beautiful. I never thought it would grow to this!”

salonmagazine.ca / September 2021 63

and strategically angled—we didn’t have to change anything!” Leckie says the vibe of this salon is very reminiscent of old Hollywood glamour with its welcoming, inviting, boutique hotel feel. “The ceilings are painted pink, but the rest of the salon is white. The mirrors are arches, and the curves and archways with those soft lines are really beautiful,” she says. “The lighting in this space is great, as well. It’s important to have the right amount in a variety of areas, and we chose to include these new versions of globe lights on either side of the mirrors. We’re coming back to that cosmetic lighting from back in the day.”

PHOTOS: KIELY RAMOS PHOTOGRAPHY

Playing with Textures Although Leckie is very into design, she’s not as well-versed in art. “I’m much more into texture than artwork,” she says. “Each of my studios has an element of texture. Another thing that’s different about this salon is our colour lab and retail area that’s really stylized. We’re a huge colour salon that houses a lot of colour. Giovanna designed the colour lab so well with the curves and big arch, which is a theme throughout the salon.”

64 salonmagazine.ca / September 2021

DETAILS Opened February 2020 DESIGN Proggetti Inc. SPACE 1,500 square feet TEAM 8 hairstylists BRANDS Oribe Goldwell (colour) Kevin.Murphy INSTAGRAM @studiosolara WEBSITE studiosolara.ca

salonmagazine.ca / September 2021 65

➣

Salon Social —

Education Without Borders

Guilty of slippery and messy foils? Keep them secure by holding hair with tension against the head to lock the foil in place. Paint your product while continuing to hold the hair to make sure it adheres to the foil. Also, remember to practice minimal touching when folding foils to keep them neat and avoid pulling. Tip: When working with longer lengths, fold the hair into the foil instead of swirling for a slip-free approach!

As the world continues to navigate the pandemic’s waves, education has transcended countries (thanks, virtual learning!) and is being shared around the globe. Here are a few of our favourite lessons and tips from social media.

@iamjanpatanao, Toronto

➣ Create slimming effects or draw in the eye by keeping depth where you want it by using a zig-zag part to create diffusion and blend, followed by teasing the hair to preserve depth. Tip: Keeping brunettes darker in the hollows of their cheeks enhances the contour of their cheekbones.

➣

@sarabotsfordhair, Fort Frances, Ont.

The key to achieving a statement face-framing highlight that’s not stripey and with a softer growout is by pivoting your foils.

Need help lightening stubborn baby hair? Try using an eyelash wand!

➣ Want to prevent coarse grey hair from popping out of your root touch-ups? Try using perm papers to keep the colour in place.

@hairbyshawna_russell, Coquitlam, B.C.

➣

@taylordidmyhair, Franklin, MA

Be sure to only mix enough lightener for what you’ll be able to use in 20 minutes. Since lightener starts processing as soon as you mix it, if you wait too long to use it, you’re not going to get the same amount of lift as you would on that first highlight.

@kahairstylist, Toronto 66 salonmagazine.ca / September 2021

TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN AND SAMI CHAZONOFF; PHOTOS: INSTAGRAM

@kfhaireducation, Manchester, U.K.

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