Salon Magazine, October 2022

28

FEATURE Learning Never Stops

Whether you’re a new or seasoned stylist, growing your knowledge base should always be a priority! Learn how to accomplish this feat at every stage of your career, which education options to consider, and where to find resources for your specific needs.

32 FEATURE Cutting It Up

In need of tips and tricks for cutting short, medium and long hair? Look no further! From classic to trendy silhouettes, we checked in with the experts for their advice.

37 INSPIRATION Collections

Erin Fernandes; Maggie Semaan; Johanna Libbey; Robert Eaton; Bernadette Beswick; Tim Scott-Wright; Shyana & Florian Knittel

54

CONTESSA GALLERY Marie-Josée Dupuis

Learn how this Montrealbased salon owner utilizes competitions to elevate her craft—and how she encourages her staff to do the same.

“The more you keep yourself educated in this industry, the more confidence you’ll develop and the more successful you’ll be as a hairstylist.”

14

LET’S GET DIGITAL SalonMagazine.ca

If you’re looking for inspiration this fall, we’re here to help! Check out the latest industry news and trends, and get inspired by the work of other stylists. Plus, learn more about the newest launches in support of Breast Cancer Awareness month.

15 WHAT’S NEW Hairlines

Embrace the season of change with new launches in care, colour, styling and more. Plus, brush up on nail education for sculpting and extension applications, and get trendy with copper tones.

56

PROFILE

Rediscovering His Craft

Learn how celebrity hairstylist and educator Philip Wolff got his start in the hair industry, and how education played a pivotal role in his career.

58 BUSINESS Excelling in Education

Struggling to bring education into your salon? Check out these tips on how to keep learning exciting and effective for your staff.

60

INTERIORS A Minimalistic Escape

Take a look inside this Montreal-based salon that took its style inspiration from luxury retail stores in Europe.

64 Events/Scoop

66

SALON STORIES

Award-Worthy Art

Want to feel some bonafide Canadian pride? Get to know the Oscar-winning hairstylist and makeup artist duo behind The Eyes of Tammy Faye!

ROBERT EATON, RUSSELL EATON, U.K

SHYANA & FLORIAN KNITTEL, SHY + FLO, SWITZERLAND

JOHANNA LIBBEY, MOODS HAIR SALON, VANCOUVER

Salon Magazine

ISSN 1197-1495, VOLUME 31, ISSUE 8 SALONMAGAZINE.CA —

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Veronica Boodhan veronica@salonmagazine.ca

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Stephanie MacDonald Gallant stephanie@salonmagazine.ca

DIGITAL SPECIALIST Shanice Romelus shanice@salonmagazine.ca

CONTRIBUTORS Liz Bruckner, Lucy Mazzucco

SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Marc Gadbois marc@salonmagazine.ca

SALES & EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Lauren Farrugia lauren@salonmagazine.ca

PRODUCTION MANAGER Alan Swinton production@salonmagazine.ca

OFFICE MANAGER Cathy Donaghy cathy@salonmagazine.ca

CIRCULATION MANAGER Adrian Holland helpdesk@subscriptions.salon

Best in Class

No matter where you may be at in your career, there are always defining moments that help shape who you become. And while some people may choose to keep looking forward to where they’re going next, it’s also important to appreciate every milestone you’ve reached along the way.

As many of us already know—or have learned over these past couple of years— education plays a pivotal role in one’s success in the industry. Live education was greatly missed during the lockdowns, but the silver lining has been the growth of virtual education. In Learning Never Stops (pg. 28), we chatted with education experts on how to continue building your knowledge base—whether you’re a newbie or a veteran in the industry.

For many of you working behind the chair, learning technical skills is what most stimulates you. In Cutting It Up (pg. 32), we break down some of the most soughtafter haircuts with expert tips and tricks on mastering the looks.

With that said, it’s also important to remember that education doesn’t start and stop at technical capabilities. Whether it’s social media, e-commerce, retail, business-building and more, growing your knowledge base in a wide range of areas can not only help you become better in your career, but it can also open doors that you may not have considered.

Is your dream to become an educator or platform artist for your favourite brand? In that case, product knowledge is key, and having it can help you in more ways than you may think. Or perhaps you want to get published and have your work featured on the cover of a magazine (like Salon!). Knowing how to shoot a magazine-worthy editorial collection is key.

And if you’re in need of inspiration, the Contessa Awards is the place to be! Finalists will be announced on October 11th on Instagram Live, so mark your calendars! Want to have a say in the finalists (and winner)? Don’t forget to vote for your favourite #ContessaFreestyle2023 entry at SalonMagazine.ca/Contessa, beginning on October 3rd!

Regardless of what level you may be at in your professional life, remember that it’s never too late to start something new. You might even surprise yourself by discovering an interest or talent you didn’t know you had. Remember: We live and learn!

CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER & PUBLISHER Tom Arkell tom@salonmagazine.ca

Salon Magazine 183 Bathurst Street Suite 202, Toronto, ON, M5T 2R7 T. 416.869.3131

Subscription Rates

For Canada 1 year (9 issues) $40.00 + tax 1 year (3 copies each of 9 issues) $60.00 HST included. Canadian orders only, must be to same location US 1 year (9 issues) $50 USD

Address Changes helpdesk@subscriptions.salon or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services, Salon Magazine, 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10 Toronto, ON M8Z 1K2 641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada Ltd.)

Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10, Toronto, ON M8Z 1K2

Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40011270

Veronica Boodhan Editorial Director

PRINTED IN CANADA

The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131 or e-mail helpdesk@subscriptions.salon. Our privacy officer is Adrian Holland.

This project has been made possible [in part] by the Government of Canada. This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilites exist. Printed on recyclable paper

PRODUCT GUIDE

Search by product category or keyword. Also, find a comprehensive list of Canadian manufacturers and distributors. We help you narrow the search.

Get Ready

Bold Inspo The Lines

Manicure Mania FOR

FALL INTO A NEW ROUTINE THIS SEASON WITH THE LATEST PRODUCT LAUNCHES IN CARE, COLOUR, STYLING AND MORE.

In hopes of inspiring women of colour to feel free to express themselves and their culture through their hair, the Freedom to Be You collection by Avlon’s education team celebrates the beauty of textured hair. The U.K.-based team has created looks ranging from natural texture to chemically treated curls to braids, all the while showcasing hair that’s healthy and uncompromised. This collection is sure to inspire you to help your clients embrace their natural texture—no matter what cut or colour they choose to rock this season.

Naturally New

Give your natural tones a boost this season with the new Koleston Perfect and Shinefinity shades from Wella Professionals.

With the ongoing demand for more naturallooking shades, Wella is taking things to the next level with Signature Naturals, a new collection of shades that are infused with exciting accents and hues. To help your clients embrace their colour while enhancing their hair’s vibrancy, the collection includes new shades in the brand’s Koleston Perfect and Shinefinity colour lines.

Extra Hold

Get to know Matrix’s new and improved Vavoom range.

Matrix has revamped its beloved Vavoom lineup and added the new Triple Freeze Extra Dry Hairspray, which provides all-day hold without the crunch. Its fast-drying formula o ers an ultra-dry airy mist without any stickiness and the can contains a tri-di usion actuator that o ers a wider, more even distribution of the product. The brand is also reintroducing its Vavoom Freezing Spray Extra Hold Hairspray and Vavoom Freezing Spray Extra Full Hairspray, each featuring brand-new packaging, an extra-large can containing 15oz., and clear product descriptions and colours for an improved client experience.

Koleston Perfect

The three new permanent shades—5/18, 6/91 and 7/36 help create rich, balanced and healthy-looking results with natural depth and shine. They’re formulated with ultraprecision colour technology to provide up to 100 per cent grey coverage, they protect strands from damage, and are ideal for all hair types.

Shinefinity

The five new zero-lift and zero-damage shades—Natural Expresso (04/0), Natural Brandy (06/0), Natural Latte (08/0), Cool Chia (04/12) and Cool Mushroom (07/12)— have been designed specifically for root shadows and to fight brassiness, creating rich and vibrant colour with healthy-looking shine. The line is formulated with the brand’s balanced pH technology to preserve hair’s integrity for six weeks of long-lasting colour and shine.

Style Inclusively

➣

Expand your styling portfolio with the latest KMS launches.

With more clients embracing their natural texture and expressing themselves through their hair, stylists need to be equipped with the right products to help. KMS has released two new styling products designed for all hair types and textures, ranging from coily and straight to fine and coarse. The new CURLUP Twisting Style Balm is a nourishing product that’s formulated for the diverse styling needs of curly and coily hair, and provides deep hydration to eliminate frizz and protect from humidity while nourishing hair without weighing it down. Plus, it activates curls and coils to provide definition and control while reducing shrinkage by up to 70 per cent! Made with up to 93 per cent naturally derived ingredients, it’s up to 97 per cent biodegradable, is free of silicones, parabens, mineral oils, dyes and animalderived ingredients, and comes in a jar made from 52 per cent recycled materials.

The brand is also introducing the new HAIRPLAY Dry Texture Spray, a multipurpose product that’s ideal for straight to wavy hair. In addition to enabling stylists to finish a client’s look with texture and volume, it also absorbs oil at the roots without creating white residue or a stiff feeling. It’s also free of animal-derived ingredients, silicones, parabens, mineral oils, dyes and PEGs, and comes in a can made with 25 per cent recycled materials.

PHOTO (CLOCKWISE):

WELLA PROFESSIONALS, GOLDWELL, ORIBE, REDKEN, KMS, MATRIX

GOLD RUSH

Goldwell names its Canadian finalists for the 2022 Global Creative Awards!

Canadians are going for gold at the annual photo-based competition, presented by Kao Salon Division. Showcasing creativity in technical and editorial categories, they competed at a national level for New Talent Colourist, Creative Colourist and Creative Haircutter of the Year. The gold winners in each category are advancing to compete at the international live competition, which will be held in Amsterdam on October 2nd-3rd. Congratulations to all Canadian finalists and best of luck to the gold winners!

2022 New Talent Colourist of the Year

Gold Winner: Emily Kooistra, Salon Cyan, London, Ont.

Silver Finalist: Robyn Partyka, Edward Carriere Salon, Winnipeg, Man.

Bronze Finalist: Alyssa Collicutt, Jerome Salon, Calgary, Alta.

2022 Creative Colourist of the Year

Gold Winner: Jagoda Hall, Salon Cyan, London, Ont.

Silver Finalist: Beth Lloyd, Calgary, Alta.

Bronze Finalist: Chelsea Dogan, Salon Cyan, London, Ont.

2022 Creative Haircutter of the Year

Gold Winner: Denise Meikle, Salon Origins, Vancouver, B.C.

Hello, Curls!

Give your curly-haired clients the ultimate care and styling regimen with Kenra Professional’s new AllCurl collection.

Featuring six new products that treat and style hair based on your client’s needs and goals, AllCurl products are perfect for catering to clientele with a wide range of curl patterns and textures. The line’s Cleansing Rinse is a low-lather, colour-safe and non-drying rinse featuring a nozzle that’s perfect for targeted root application. It also eliminates product buildup, maintains moisture and enhances manageability. To help improve hair’s manageability, the Balancing Conditioner replenishes moisture after shampooing to detangle and define curls, enhances shine and offers 72 hours of moisture retention. To hydrate and detangle curls, the Hydrating Leave-In provides curl retention and moisture while the Lightweight Defining Crème helps define curls and delivers thermal protection with 72 hours of frizz and humidity resistance. The Defining Jelly is a light-hold and no-crunch gel designed to enhance curls and control frizz, while the Sealing Oil Spray seals in moisture to provide shine and 72 hours of frizz control.

Featuring the brand’s beloved formulas with modernized and sustainable packaging, Redken’s styling collection now includes updated labels that display product benefits more visibly for an intuitive styling experience. The bold design uses colour to help stylists easily navigate the range—for example, the pink packaging identifies products that are heat protectant stylers—and these products offer an additional benefit of having been produced with eco-friendly post-consumer recycled (PCR) plastic.

Redken has also launched a new lightweight and sea-salt-free Beach Spray, enabling you to provide clients with texture, movement and body in their hair for voluminous and effortless-looking beachy waves all year round. ➣

OUT WITH THE OLD…

Redken unveils its new and improved packaging for its styling products.

Protect colour and shine while reducing breakage with L’Oréal Professional’s Serie Expert Metal Detox Oil.

The latest addition to the brand’s Serie Expert Metal Detox lineup, this new lightweight and non-greasy oil can be used on wet or dry hair to keep clients’ colour vibrant while protecting strands from metal particle deposits. Its patented formula helps plump hair for 97 per cent less breakage with two-times shinier colour, and it also provides frizz control and heat protection up to 440°F.

Get Ready to Vote for #ContessaFreestyle!

IN CASE YOU MISSED IT: This year, we’re opening up our Contessa Freestyle category to public voting, which means YOU can have a say in the finalists and winner!

From October 3rd to October 17th, you can cast your vote at SalonMagazine.ca/Contessa for your favourite #ContessaFreestyle2023 entry. In doing so, your vote gives you the chance to win two tickets to the 2023 Contessa Awards gala in Toronto on Sunday, November 20th, 2022!

Remember: Only one vote per email address will count, and once you’ve submitted your vote, you’ll need to verify it by checking your inbox (or junk folder) to confirm your address and successfully cast your vote. Multiple votes received from the same email address are not permitted.

Contessa Freestyle finalists will be announced on October 23rd in our weekly newsletter, so if you’re not already subscribed, sign up now to get first access to the list and to stay up to date on all things Contessa!

COMPLETE CARE

Biolage expands its All-In-One portfolio with its new Multi Benefit Oil.

Infused with sustainably sourced moringa oil, the All-In-One Multi Benefit Oil improves shine and softness while nourishing and hydrating hair. With a fast-absorbing and invisible formula, the oil can be used as a pre-shampoo, leavein or overnight treatment. It works on all hair types and textures, and features 10 benefits that include detangling, smoothing frizz and flyaways, control, manageability, softness, and more.

PHOTO (CLOCKWISE): OLAPLEX, MOROCCANOIL, AMIKA, BIOLAGE, L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, 2022 WINNER, FREESTYLE, DANIEL GRIECO, SALON GABOA, WOODBRIDGE, ONT.,

PHOTO: GIANCARLO INTINI

POWERFUL PUNCH

Bond Like A Pro

Discover the latest launches from Olaplex to help cleanse and protect your clients’ hair in the salon and at home.

The brand’s Broad Spectrum Chelating Treatment is an in-salon product that’s designed to remove buildup and purify hair. Ideal for use before chemical services to boost final results, the deep purification treatment is made with Kakadu plum extract, which is full of vitamin C, and is formulated with Olaplex’s patented bondbuilding technology that relinks broken bonds. By removing buildup within the cortex without stripping moisture and essential proteins, hair is brightened and softened, discolouration is minimized and shine is rejuvenated, and the scalp is refreshed and soothed with no prep or heat necessary. For clients looking to continue their care at home, the No. 4C Bond Maintenance

Clarifying Shampoo is a deep-cleaning product formulated to remove surface buildup and can also be used in-salon as a pre-cleanse before applying the Broad Spectrum Chelating Treatment.

amika Jumbo

High Tide Deep Waver

“It's a quick, easy and efficient way to add texture to hair. You can use it to create many different styles from edgy and eccentric to softer, more classic wave patterns. You can also use it to create more volume without looking crimped.”

— Stephanie Choquette, regional pro educator for amika, Montreal

Produces— far-infrared heat and negative ions to protect hair’s moisture while sealing the cuticle for silky, frizz-free results

Features a digital — and adjustable temperature ranging from 120 to 390°F with a 30-minute auto shut-o

— Cool tips to prevent burning

— Includes three 32-millimetre barrels— ideal for longer hair and suitable for all hair types

— Made with a custom mold, eliminating any concern about crease marks

— Features an extra-long 360-degree swivel cord for ease of use around

360-degree swivel cord the salon

CLEARLY CORAL Learn more about Moroccanoil’s latest Color Depositing Mask addition.

Give hair a bright pop of colour this season with Moroccanoil’s Color Depositing Mask in Coral, a semi-permanent that colours and conditions hair in one easy step. The new shade is perfect for clients with light blonde to medium blonde hair, and o ers a commitment-free way to play with colour without damage, thanks to the brand’s ArganID technology. Providing the antioxidant benefits of argan oil to help support the natural hair repair process, it also features apricot kernel oil and an amino acid blend to hydrate and nourish strands.

Gloss It Up

Gloss and tone while strengthening hair with Kevin.Murphy’s Color.Me Gloss.

Formulated with vegan ingredients, a biodegradable formula and the brand’s liquid gel texture Gel.Activator, Kevin.Murphy’s Color.Me Gloss helps you achieve superior colour results while restoring hair quality in 20 minutes or less. The demi-permanent colour gels treat, reconstruct and moisturize hair to increase its strength during every colour service. And because it features vitamin C to protect the colour—along with the brand’s KM.BOND2 technology—the Color.Me Gloss range has a hair refilling effect for 37 per cent thicker and 25 per cent stronger hair after just one application. Available in 30 shades (including a pigment-free clear), Color.Me Gloss is also ideal for toning, correcting, tone on tone application and pastel services, and it can also be offered as a refill and bond treatment.

Honouring a Legend

Oribe releases its limitededition Dry Texturizing Spray with a familiar face!

Oribe has launched a limitededition of their beloved Dry Texturizing Spray, featuring retro designed packaging. The brand has partnered with Alvaro, a New Yorkbased painter, to create the new packaging that pays homage to their heritage and features an illustration of Oribe’s co-founder, Oribe Canales. Canales was a renowned editorial hairstylist who created the Dry Texturizing spray as his dream alternative to dry shampoo to deliver volume and texture while refreshing the hair, and the product has since become a best-seller for Oribe. The limited-edition design features a colourful illustration of Canales, as well as his signature to replace the brand’s logo.

CANALES’ LOVE OF 1950S ROCK ‘N’ ROLL, POP ART AND THE AMERICAN PIN-UP-GIRL STYLE ARE REFLECTED IN THIS “MUSCLE MAN” IMAGE, WHICH ALSO SHOWCASES HIS TATTOO SLEEVE!

Blown Away

Get high-performance power while reducing drying time with the self-cleaning CHI Lava Pro Hair Dryer.

This game-changing blow dryer is perfect for stylists who are looking for a strong airflow to save on drying time while also reducing electricity usage. Featuring a sleek shape that provides a straight shot of air (up to 110,000 rpm/min) to reduce drying time, the CHI Lava Pro Hair Dryer utilizes the brand’s lava minerals and ceramic technology to offer gentle and consistent heat for less damage and healthier-looking results. The dryer includes a LCD digital temperature display with four heat settings and three speed settings, along with three easy-to-remove magnetic attachments (including a diffuser, precision concentrator and smoothing nozzle) and an 11foot cord. Plus, it weighs less than one pound and emits a low noise at ≤ 80dB. Best of all, it even features a self-cleaning feature!

PHOTO: KEVIN.MURPHY, KENRA PROFESSIONAL, FAROUK SYSTEMS; TEXT: LAUREN FARRUGIA, PHOTO: INSTAGRAM (@JULIEKNAILSNYC), OPI, BIO SCULPTURE, CND

BRUSH UP ON YOUR NAIL EDUCATION WITH TIPS ON MASTERING SCULPTING AND EXTENSIONS. PLUS, LEARN ABOUT THE IMPORTANCE OF ADVANCING YOUR SKILL SET TO STAY UP TO DATE WITH TRENDS AND INCREASE YOUR CLIENTELE.

The Art of Sculpting and Extensions

When debating between sculpting techniques or extensions (tips), there are many factors to consider, ranging from your client’s wants and needs to the nail tech’s personal preference. Regardless, education is a vital aspect for both in order to stay up to date on the never-ending trends within the nail industry, and keep your clients leaving the salon with healthy nails.

“I think we’re starting to see a resurgence of length; not fantasy length, but a medium to long length,” says Sarah Melanson, a New Brunswickbased nail technician and education team leader and product specialist for Bio Sculpture. “I wouldn’t say that either tips or sculpting is better for achieving these trending shapes, but a good nail technician can create a good shape with both, which comes back to education and knowing how to use your products.”

Sculpting

Sculpting refers to using acrylic or gel-based products, and a sticky form that you place under the client’s nail as a guide to create length and shape. “Sculpting gives you more freedom,” says Mylan Araujo, a CND education ambassador and owner of You & Nails and Salon in Oakville, Ont. “You can create any length and shape that the client wants, and you aren’t limited to what the plastic tip has to offer. You can also use sculpting gel to get more creative when it comes to designs during a service. For example, I’ve seen a rise in encapsulating nail design trends, and you can use gel to encapsulate things like dried flowers.”

“Sculpting is customized to match the clients’ nail shape and curvature, so it’s more of a tailored service,” adds Melanson. “Many times, clients will say sculpting feels a bit more natural because they extend off the free edge of the nail while a tip adheres to the surface of the nail, so it may feel a bit heavier and they tend to feel it on the nail more.”

In addition to adding length to a client’s nails, sculpting can also be used to repair client’s damaged nails and build stronger natural nails. “Sculpting is going to help strengthen the nail and it’s going to act more as a natural nail than tips would,” says Marie-Eve Roy, a Quebec-based OPI educator and owner of Esthétique/Académie ESM. “If a client bites their nails, has nails that often break, or has a splitting nail, sculpting with a free form is going to help with all of that.”

Extensions

When it comes to extensions—a plastic nail tip that’s added to a client’s natural nail—they can be a good option for nail techs who aren’t comfortable with sculpting forms but have clients who want to increase their nail length.

“Tips are a wonderful option when you want that quick length, and for technicians who struggle with forms while still giving them that opportunity to extend the nail,” says Melanson. “There are also other options that are different from the traditional tip (that you only place on part of the nail), like a full cover nail tip, which come free formed and shaped, meaning they have strength built through the apex, which makes it very fast for a perfect application.”

If you’re considering reaching for tips in order to lengthen your client’s nails, there are few factors you should consider before making the recommendation. “With a plastic tip, they can definitely speed up a service but whether you create the nail using a free form or you apply a plastic tip, you still need to apply a gel or acrylic on top of the tip,” says Roy.

“Tips are good for clients who have non-flat nails with a little dip,” adds Araujo. “They can cover the dip and make the nails flat, and I find that they can hold better on clients who have really weak nails. They are also a great option for a client who comes in wanting a square-shaped nail because a lot of tips are already that shape and it requires less shaping and building from the nail technician.”

Gel System

This gel base forms a strong bond between nail keratin and the gel to allow for a precise, long-lasting and fast, one-coat application.

Bio Sculpture Base Gel

This award-winning clear and flexible gel is an odourless nail enhancement treatment that strengthens and conditions client’s natural nails, and acts as a base layer and foundation that’s selflevelling and cures in just 30 seconds.

CND PLEXIGEL

This “brush-ina-bottle” gel nail enhancement system can be used to fill, fix, shape and build nails, and allows for up to three weeks of strength, length and shape.

Made in Canada

SOMA

With a goal of helping clients achieve longerlasting colour and healthier hair, salon owner and master stylist Stephanie Karellas created the SOMA Shower Filter, which she conceptualized after noticing that her clients were consistently arriving to their appointments with faded colour—a problem she was determined to solve. The filter’s unique design is ideal for both in-salon and at-home use, and it works by purifying water and reducing harsh chemicals, including chlorine, fluoride and other contaminants. The result: Hair and skin that are softer, more lustrous and protected from dryness and irritation.

In addition, mental health has been an important cause to Karellas. SOMA has partnered with Jack.org, Canada’s only charity focusing on training and empowering youth to revolutionize mental health across every province, to donate a portion of the funds from every SOMA Shower Filter sold.

Available in silver and a limited-edition champagne-pink silver, the SOMA Shower Filter not only clarifies water to help reduce colour fade, dry hair and skin, dandruff and eczema, but it’s also infused with vitamin C, which can help stimulate hair growth and strength.

TO112

Toronto-based colourist Luis Pacheco founded TO112, a brand that’s inspired by nature and science. Born out of the desire to create products that not only create beautiful hair but also protect the scalp, each product is formulated with Tamanu oil (TO), which is used by many in the Polynesian Islands to aid in healing hair and skin conditions. All products are cruelty-free, created with natural fragrances, and formulated to the European Union standards, which are the highest in the world.

TO112’s Mega Moisture Mask is made with cupuaçu butter—a natural UV protectant and moisturizer that can hold more than four times its weight in water. Ideal for all hair types, the mask is formulated with tamanu and jojoba oil, aloe vera and hibiscus extract to help restore moisture and elasticity, prevent breakage and keep hair shiny and strong.

To emphasize their commitment to a better world, Pacheco works with Water.org—a global non-profit organization that helps people gain access to safe water—by donating proceeds from every TO112 Hand & Body Wash sold. The brand has also partnered with EcoCart, a company that aims to make commerce less harmful to the environment by eliminating the carbon footprint from their online orders, while also funding a Vietnambased project that recovers plastic from oceans.

Get to know these Canadian brands and products that are founded by—or partnering with—hairstylists!

Mela & Kera

Launched by Toronto-based salon owner and celebrity hairstylist Jason Lee, this clean, high-performance haircare and styling line was designed to keep up with the ever-changing demands and trends within the hair industry. Lee founded Mela & Kera (named after melanin and keratin, which are naturally found in hair) and began creating products designed to protect clients’ hair—both in the salon and at home—against heat styling, chemical damage, colour fading and environmental irritants. Powered by the Rose of Jericho (known as the resurrection plant), which contains a moisture-retention complex, and the brand’s phytofuse renew, the extract helps create soft, velvety and healthy-looking results while restoring hair’s vitality and shine. All products are 100 per cent vegan, compliant with European Union standards and are produced with 30 per cent post-consumer recycled (PCR) plastic.

With the brand’s sustainability mission to produce net-zero global emissions, Mela & Kera has purchased carbon offsets to compensate for its shipping activity and production, and it also funds projects that aim to reduce greenhouse gases.

Voir Haircare

Mela & Kera’s Balayage Exceptionnel Shampoo and Conditioner are made exclusively for balayage or highlighted hair, and is formulated with the brand’s balayage complex to seal frayed cuticles and split ends while also strengthening damaged hair for softer, more hydrated results.

For Voir’s newest collection, A Walk in the Sun— a five-piece line designed to help repair, moisturize and protect the hair—the brand has partnered with Canadian photographer Grant Harder to showcase Canada’s beautiful landscape through imagery on their packaging.

AG Care

The brand (formerly known as AG Hair) was started in 1989 in the basement of a Vancouver-based hairstylist and his wife. After noticing a gap in the market for high-quality eco-friendly products, the pair decided to build the brand with a focus on integrity and natural ingredients. Not only is their haircare collection vegan and cruelty-free, but the products are also made with no added salt, parabens or DEA, and

Paying homage to Canada’s second official language, Voir (meaning to see in French) Haircare was born, raised and crafted in Canada, and is a line of premium salon-quality haircare essentials. All products are made with mindful, vegan ingredients that are free of toxic chemicals and range from hair masques and scalp exfoliators all the way to texturizing hairspray and styling foam.

With a mission to restore and boost hair confidence for all people, Voir is also working with Canadian celebrity hairstylist and TV personality Aaron O’Bryan to help promote and market the brand to both hairstylists and consumers.

AG Care is committed to sustainability with packaging that features both PCR and aluminum, as well as refill pouches for their shampoos and conditioners.

each is produced in Canada at their manufacturing facility in Vancouver.

In 2008, the brand partnered with One Girl Can, a Canadianand Kenyan-registered charitable organization that works in support of breaking the cycle of poverty while striving for gender equality. Money raised is used to help fund education, mentorship and training for girls in Kenya.

GET READY FOR RED THIS SEASON WITH EXPERT TIPS ON HOW TO TRANSFORM YOUR CLIENTS’ COLOUR WITH COPPER TONES.

CopperWired

With the autumn leaves changing and revealing gorgeous shades of orange and red, it should come as no surprise that copper hues are having a major moment this season.

Though the trend actually emerged earlier this year, it’s taking flight for fall as warmer tones continue to be in high demand. “Warmer tones bring so much more life to the hair,” says Jeremy Santos, a Toronto-based hairstylist and elite color professional for Moroccanoil. “I feel like they’re a lot more achievable and they last a lot longer, so they’re more wearable.”

Factoring in the growing demand for warmer tones since the start of the pandemic, Santos says he believes they could be here to stay for a while. “I think in today’s climate with people’s financial situations, warmer tones just make a lot more sense,” he says. “They don’t have to be in the salon every three to six weeks like they would with an ash colour, so it’s often a more affordable option.”

The Consultation

Though clients may be ready and willing to embrace the trend, it’s important to find a tone that’s best suited for them.

“You’ll want to look at their skin and eye colour,” says Santos. “If someone has a lot of redness in their skin, we’re going to try to calm it down and not go completely copper, but we might do a really nice chocolate copper or something with more gold in it to complement the skin tone. If they have a really cool skin tone, we can definitely go more intense

PRO TIP WITH SO MANY DIFFERENT SHADES OF COPPER—FROM PASTEL TO FIERY TONES—ASK CLIENTS FOR A PHOTO OF WHAT THEY’RE LOOKING FOR, AND ZOOM INTO THAT PHOTO TO FIGURE OUT EXACTLY WHAT TONES THEY’RE INTERESTED IN.

with it because it’s going to bring out their features a little bit more.”

“I like to say that opposites attract,” says Mathieu Bergeron, owner of HBMB Coiffure et Esthétique in La Baie, Que., and a member of the Joico colour team. “Warm colours like copper are especially great for those with blue and green eyes.”

While a client’s features can help guide you in the right tonal direction, it’s important to not be afraid of getting creative and creating a customized look that combines various shades. “There are so many types of copper and tones that you can use,” says Santos. “With hair colour, it’s great that we can play with peoples’ features and help make what they want to stand out more, and hide other things they might not want to see. Hair colour makes such an impact.”

Getting Technical

Whether your client is looking for an all-over application or a more subtle look, copper can be incorporated into a wide range of colour services, including balayage and colour-blocking.

“Personally, I love doing a great lightening service all over, and creating a nice bright copper,” says Santos. “We’ve been doing more natural, rooted looks for a long time, so it’s really nice to see brightness all over, and to do a more impactful look with a level seven copper, for example, which just looks so beautiful and rich, especially for fall and winter.”

For clients who may opt for a less dramatic option, Santos says it’s about getting creative with colour placement.

“Everybody loves a great ombre or

Joico Lumishine

The permanent and demi-permanent colour line includes the brand’s bond-building ArgiPlex technology for superior colour, next-level shine and healthy-looking results.

balayage look because it’s wearable and not so high-maintenance,” he says. “For today's trends, we’re doing a money piece that’s heavier on the outside, but we’re also doing more underneath— with a darker colour on the outside and lighter on the inside to brighten up the face. It creates a really nice lightness around the face and highlights it beautifully.”

“To create a more multidimensional result, you can do some highlights or faceframing placements before using your colour,” adds Bergeron. “There are so many possibilities to create new looks. Sometimes, I like to mix warmer shades to create a new colour. For example, if I mix a gold and a red to create a new shade of copper, rather than choose an existing one.”

With these tones, it’s important to make sure clients are ready to start seeing warmth in their hair, especially if they’ve shied away from it in the past. “If the client is not used to seeing warmth in their hair, I would just do it very subtly; add in a few lowlights and transition them into a bit more copper,” says Santos. “It could just be adding some slices into the hair, or weaving in a few pieces and then incorporating in a veil [by creating a lighter colour on the top layer of the hair, with a see-through effect so the darker shade underneath peeks through]. It’s very light and impactful for someone who may not be used to it because it offers a nice change without the client having to fully commit to it.”

Texture Tips

Don’t forget to recommend copper tones to your curly-haired clientele! While you may naturally opt for a brunette or blonde shade, coppers can be a great way to blend in any warm tones that are already existing in the hair. “There are so many di erent shades of copper tones, so it’s definitely inclusive for everyone,” says Santos. “We can customize it for anybody and it’s really nice because it will show you more of the curl, depending on the lightness or darkness of the copper. If you’re doing a lighter copper, you’re going to see more of the curl and it’s going to look healthier and shinier because you have a lot more pigment in there. For people who have a lot of density and curl, you’re going to see a lot more movement in the hair.”

Product Picks

Moroccanoil Color Infusion Mixer

Customize your permanent or demipermanent colour with this pure pigment additive that infuses an intense boost of red to your copper formulas.

Kevin.Murphy Color.Me Copper.Intense With dark blonde copper, light blonde copper and platinum copper hues, these ammonia-free shades o er up to three levels of lightening with full grey coverage.

Pulp Riot Faction8

With vibrant copper and bold red shades, this vegan, permanent colour line o ers 100 per cent grey coverage.

Q&A with Chatters President & CEO Greg Moreau

Chatters Hair Salon is making waves in the hair and beauty industry; a company with more than 100 salons across the country is bound to turn a few heads, and it’s no wonder why. From developing cutting edge initiatives to offering unparalleled employee perks and delivering top-notch customer service, Chatters has been busy paving the way for 30 years and it shows.

Who is Chatters?

Chatters is the provider of #StyleHappy hair days. They’ve been helping guests look and feel great from the inside out, every day since 1991. As an industry leader, they have been committed to creating quality, memorable experiences for guests and employees alike. In addition to salon services, Chatters also offers a wide selection of top professional hair and beauty brands at retail, both in stores and online at chatters.ca. Chatters’ success is driven by talented, passionate employees, and they are always looking to build that growing community.

Photos captured by: Arthur Mola

Tell us about the new store opening in Brampton.

To better meet the needs of our guests and elevate our brand, we launched an expansion project that aligns with our vision and future of Chatters. The centerpiece of our initiative was our new flagship store in Brampton which opened on July 30, 2022.

For this flagship store, located at Trinity Commons, we enlisted the expertise of award-winning salon store designer, Sandra Fiore of Fiore + Greco Design, and in partnership with The Dress Code Project, have provided safe spaces for our clients and staff. These spaces include a testing bar, enhanced salon capabilities, and a genderless service menu.

Chatters is also proud to announce that this location will be the first to offer private salon stations for clients who prefer a more individual setting.

As part of our ongoing commitment to providing innovative services to our customers, it is a project that is close to our heart and allows us to evolve and elevate with our clients.

How does it compare to/differ from your other locations?

We intend to provide the most personalised and attentive service to our clients at our flagship location. The fresh and inviting design of the space encourages clients to explore and experience new products and services with ease and comfort. Our array of luxury brands are beautifully displayed and the layout of our salon services area has improved dramatically.

In addition to the gender-neutral service menu, this location is the first to provide private salon stations for customers who choose a more individual environment.

Chatters is now Canada’s largest salon chain that offers a gender-free and inclusive services menu. In all our salons we strive to offer the most inclusive and environmentally sustainable salon and shopping experience to all guests, inspiring them to look good, feel good and do good, one style experience at a time.

What kind of experience does Chatters offer for its staff?

When you work at Chatters, you’re working with over 1,200 passionate and talented individuals.

Keeping our team safe, listening to their thoughts and concerns, and forming a meaningful connection with them are all vital to our success as we strive to foster a sense of community among our employees. Since empathy is our true competitive advantage, elevating our service standards is essential.

We intend to be an industry disruptor by increasing our spending on employee education and skill development and by eliminating the stigma associated with working for a chain as opposed to an independently run salon.

Each of our 1,200+ stylists is a vital part of our success. We would not be here without them and the special bond they form with their customers. Our stylists receive competitive pay along with benefits, and we work with them to further their careers in the beauty industry by offering classes and seminars. Investment in stylist priorities has resulted in programs like Style Code, a dress code that promotes individuality, and Style Consciously, a clean beauty initiative.

We also give our stylists and beauty consultants the opportunity to participate in career enhancing programs such as The JUNO Awards, Vancouver Fashion Week, event partnerships with FASHION Magazine, and more!

What kind of experience does Chatters offer its clientele?

Chatters’ mission of providing Style Happy Hair Days, goes much deeper than the surface. Style Happy is about inspiring guests to look good, feel good and do good not just after a fresh style from the salon but everyday of the week.

And that’s exactly why Chatters exists: to encourage that self expression and to empower each and every person, to enable us all to look and feel our best, proudly and confidently.

How have the pandemic and lockdowns impacted retail sales? Are clients more receptive to purchasing professional products now? Why or why not?

When we reflect on the last two years of lockdown, our clients and staff, much like myself, have experienced a difficult time getting back to normal. It’s my hope that Chatters can be even a small contributor in supporting our community on their journey to feeling like themselves again. We're all craving human contact, face-to-face interaction, and the feeling of normalcy.

We are back to interacting socially, having gatherings with friends and family, and yes, we are back to treating ourselves with professional salon products and services. We truly believe that our clients see the bigger picture of being loyal to Chatters. Not only do we provide high quality salon products and services, but we’re making active changes within our footprints and within our communities to be more sustainable, inclusive, and innovative; this is the core reason why they choose Chatters above all else.

How does Chatters make retail products more approachable and accessible for clients?

For a while now, Chatters has adopted a particular approach to make sure that all customers are satisfied and never leave our salon or website disappointed.

We have taken the time to step back and understand that it is by growing with our customers that we can help them find what they want and need.

We are committed to listening and understanding what our clients and stylists have to say, to improve our ability to anticipate their needs and enhance the overall quality of their experience.

Our approach has allowed us to open our first location that includes private salon stations, along with our genderless menu, creating an inclusive and environmentally sustainable salon and shopping experience, while nurturing a safe space where everyone is free to be themselves.

Our efforts continue on our website, as we are currently in the midst of a complete overhaul to prioritize user-friendliness and streamline navigation, making sure that our customers can find what they want with ease.

When browsing online or in store, consumers can look for products by category. Through this clarification, consumers can make better choices ensuring they’re selecting products that meet their personal needs.

Chatters is also highlighting an initiative called Style Consciously, which aims to improve the beauty business by educating customers and encouraging them to make more conscientious choices when it comes to the hair, skin, and other beauty products they use. Online or in store, shoppers can look for the Style Consciously symbols to easily identify which of four pillars a product meets. With this more precise definition in hand, shoppers can confidently choose eco-friendly items knowing they're doing so in accordance with their own particular ideals and requirements.

How has offering a wide range of products helped open up more retail and take-home sales opportunities for Chatters stylists?

Every stylist-client relationship is unique, and we aim to treat them as such. Having such a wide range of products and brands available to our clients allows our stylists to foster their unique relationships and provide their clients with what is right for their specific hair type, their individual needs, their at-home care, and their lifestyle.

LEARNING NEVER STOPS

No matter what level or stage you’re at in your hairdressing career, there are always new techniques and trends to brush up on. We checked in with education experts for their take on why learning is vital at all stages of your career, and to find out tips on how to continue developing your skills.

BY LAUREN FARRUGIA

When working in the beauty industry, it can seem like education is everywhere. While the types of education range from virtual seminars and online tutorials to in-person classes, events and even to social media posts/videos, the accessibility of education today makes learning a non-negotiable for stylists— regardless of their skill level or stage of their career—and raises the question of

“Does learning ever really stop?”

“Education is the lifeline of growth and our future in the industry,” says Terry Ritcey, director of education and events for Redken. “Think about anybody who’s acquired any type of certification and the comfort you get from knowing that they’ve kept their skills up. For the hair industry, education is a constant, and really necessary for moving forward.”

Higher Learning

While education varies for stylists based on the different career stages they’re at, when looking at the hair industry as a whole, it’s clear that continual learning plays a vital role in growing the industry.

“As trends change, stylists must adapt and change, as well,” says Deanna Spielman, Canadian education leader for Wella Company. “It doesn’t matter

if you’ve been doing hair for two years, 10 years, or 30 years—we’re forever evolving and changing and that’s why education is so important.”

“I’ll always be a believer in ongoing education and learning no matter what age or level of one’s career,” adds Terri Schwendemann, director of education and creative development for Oligo Professionnel. “There are pivotal points in our professional growth where we need to stop and re-evaluate where we are, where we came from, and where we want to go.”

While the desire to learn and grow may come naturally to those who are newer to the industry, it’s important for all stylists to remain open and willing to glean from others (even those who are younger/newer to the industry), and to realize that there are always new trends and techniques to be discovered. “Education provides stylists at all levels career satisfaction and passion that will keep them striving for more,” says Kathy Reilly, associate director of education for Kao. “It’ll also allow them to continue to experience success not only in the areas they’re focused on but also in the financial realm since education is the number one justification for price increases. It’s the education and knowledge to back up your prices.”

Lessons for New Stylists

Even if a stylist has just completed beauty school or a salon apprenticeship, it’s vital that they continue to develop their skills and build on their knowledge. “The old saying ‘You don’t know what you don’t know’ is valid and I think that the real learning begins the day you finish school—not the day you walk in,” says Ritcey. “In my case, it wasn’t until after I started working in my first salon that I really realized how much I had to learn.”

“In school, you establish a great foundation from a technical standpoint but when you leave, you’re working with real salon clients who have a variety of different needs and goals, and continuing education allows you to build on your knowledge with more real-life skills that allow you to flex, adapt and be like a chameleon for every client’s hair needs,” adds Reilly. “It’s not a one-sizefits-all industry where you learn a set of skills and apply them to every client. You need different skills for different clients

and different situations, and continuing education really helps to develop all of those.”

When it comes to more technical skills, it can be a good opportunity for new stylists to experiment with different learning methods to identify what works best for them. “A lot of different brands offer education both virtually and in person, so identifying what type of learner you are can be a really great place to start,” says Spielman. “Then, seek out the education that you want. You can go to a brand educator who’s working in the field and they can help guide you to where the best education is, and from there you can build a growth plan that determines where you want to be in five years and how to get there.”

With the abundance of education available at the click of a button, it may be intimidating for new stylists to determine which option to choose. “My advice is to research the resources

each manufacturer offers,” says Schwendemann. “This may encompass digital education, academies, events, and even what’s offered through their distributors and sales consultants.”

While it’s likely that newer stylists may not know where they should start— apart from what they’re interested in— it’s important that they feel comfortable with asking their salon owner or a more senior stylist/colleague to help guide them in the right direction.

“In addition to furthering technical skills, new stylists should also prioritize learning more about how to deliver great customer service in the salon,” says Reilly. “No amount of skill is going to be worth anything if you don’t know how to deliver a wonderful in-salon experience to your clients.”

While the cost of attending in-person or virtual classes may limit the amount of education new stylists can participate in, there are also a plethora of free

“FOR NEW HAIRSTYLISTS, THE NUMBER ONE THING TO DO IS TO GO INTO EDUCATION WITH THE MINDSET THAT YOU’RE NEVER GOING TO STOP LEARNING. WHEN YOU THINK ABOUT IT LIKE THAT, THERE IS NEVER GOING TO BE AN END TO YOUR EDUCATION JOURNEY, WHICH WILL HELP YOU GET THE MOST OUT OF YOUR CAREER.”

— KATHY REILLY, ASSOCIATE DIRECTOR OF EDUCATION, KAO

options available that can help stylists grow their skills. “I always believe it’s best to invest in a mannequin head,” says Ritcey. “Use that as your model or your test subject. You can do multiple layers of hair colour, can cover it, and even start again.”

Education for Intermediate Stylists

As stylists move forward in their careers and start to gain more confidence and experience, they may start to believe that they no longer need to participate

in education. However, experts say that learning at this career stage can be more important than ever. “I believe education is more critical at this junction because people tend to get comfortable,” says Ritcey. “Sometimes clients go to the salon and really like what their stylist is doing, but that stylist may never offer their client new style or colour suggestions. And since it’s really easy for a client to see something on Instagram and go to a new stylist to get it done, it’s vital that intermediate

stylists keep themselves educated and continually offer their clients new and trending ideas.”

“Realizing that you’re not going to know everything is crucial,” adds Schwendemann. “Education helps you discover new trends and techniques so you can continue to develop and grow as a stylist. It keeps that inspiration and excitement about standing behind the chair going, which can be challenging both physically and mentally. Education really can benefit your career longevity.”

Often at this stage of a stylist’s career, they may be ready to take on a new challenge and decide it’s time to venture out and open a business of their own. “One of the things that isn’t taught in hair schools or apprenticeship programs is the business elements of education, such as the principles of consultation, communication strategies, revenue through retailing, social media, leadership skills, and other administrative things such as taxes,” says Ritcey. “At this point in a stylist’s career, the creative and technical education are of course still critical, but so is business education.”

While most intermediate stylists are familiar with traditional forms of education, now might be a good time

“I THINK WHEN LEARNING STOPS, YOU STOP. EDUCATION IS A CONSTANT AND IT’S A STATE OF MIND. IF YOU BELIEVE YOU’RE AT THE POINT WHERE YOU’VE LEARNED EVERYTHING THERE IS TO LEARN, I THINK THAT MEANS YOU’RE PRETTY CLOSE TO QUITTING IN THIS INDUSTRY.” REDKEN

to try alternative options. “Right now, we’re saturated, in the best way possible, with visibility to many different artists,” says Schwendemann. “The digital space is full of stylists who are relatable and they’re sharing information that’s valued and relevant, and that space gives you so many opportunities for education both outside and within your manufacturer. Exposure to them is a great resource.”

“I see a lot of intermediate stylists participating in classes that allow them to hone in on their foundational skills—whether that be renewing their basic law of colour knowledge or cutting skills,” adds Reilly. “However, I’ve also been seeing a lot of intermediate stylists moving towards classes that focus on current consumer requests, which help them stay on top of their clients’ requests and remain informed on new trends in the industry.”

“I think the key at this stage of your career is openness,” adds Schwendemann. “It’s important to be open to learning new things and new ways of doing things. I would also suggest selecting a vein of education that you’re going to fully immerse yourself in. You can learn a little bit about everything, but if you don’t fully immerse yourself and really understand the full scope of one of those things, you end up with bits of knowledge but not a full understanding.”

Advanced Learning for Advanced Stylists

Even after spending more than a decade behind the chair, experienced stylists should prioritize keeping up with education by not only staying current on industry trends, but also seeking out other types of advanced education to help push their boundaries. “Education is vital at this stage in maintaining inspiration and excitement, and it helps you look for something new and different that can keep you evolving,” says Schwendemann. “We can’t ever say that we know absolutely everything because new trends are always emerging and it’s important to have that mindset to keep us young and relevant in this industry. There’s always a new way to look at something, and realizing that you’re on a journey that never ends will allow for endless opportunities of growth.”

Depending on when a stylist enters the industry, the standard or

The Power of the Collective

Expand your textured hair skill set with this new (and free!) online education program.

Creating an inclusive salon environment for all clients and stylists is top of mind for the beauty industry. The Power of the Collective (POTC) is a free online education program designed to help stylists build and grow their textured hair skills while also providing diversity and inclusion training.

POTC was created to support Canadian hairstylists who are looking to elevate their cutting and colour skills and techniques to work with all hair types. Powered by the L’Oréal Group, the new education program is available to all Canadian hairstylists—regardless of the brand they work with.

For its first year, the program begins with modules that focus on haircutting—teaching stylists cutting techniques for hair types ranging from 1A to 4C—and will feature online lessons with Canadian and international artists—each with their own hair type specialization—including James Valiant (1A-1C), Rodrigo Araneda (2A-2C), Jamal Edmonds (3A-3C) and Michelle O’Connor (4A-4C).

According to Stephan Arsenault, president of L’Oréal Canada’s Professional Products Division, the brand is “strongly committed to diversity in the industry and are fully mobilized to help hairstylists diversify and enrich their expertise. With the objective to train over 10,000 hairstylists in Canada, the potential reach is significant, and we collectively have the power to bring a real change to the Canadian hair industry.”

The program concludes with an exclusive livestream with award-winning celebrity hairstylist, Philip Wolff and will feature hands-on techniques and a Q&A. Upon signing up, stylists will gain access to lessons (including new teachings, hands-on videos and a practice assignment), and receive text message notifications whenever a new lesson is available.

In addition to each of the artists’ lessons, POTC members are offered additional resources, including an introduction to consultations and foundational terms and techniques. Upon completing year one of the program, stylists will be certified as allies and receive an in-salon allyship decal highlighting their accomplishment.

Registration is free until December 1st, 2022. For more information, visit powerofthecollective.ca.

expectations of a stylist can (and do) change. “That’s because the expectation at the time those stylists entered the industry is different,” says Spielman. “As an experienced stylist, you have to keep up with the ever-changing trends, stay current and be thinking of areas you can grow in. For example, social media and learning how to grow your online presence may be something to focus on.”

It’s also likely that stylists with a vast amount of foundational and experiential knowledge are looking to share their insights with junior stylists, which benefits individuals and the industry as a whole. “I’ve noticed that many stylists at this level want to take classes that allow them to develop their mentorship skillset,” says Reilly. “It’s the responsibility of experienced stylists to mentor the younger generation and show them that education continues throughout their careers. We have to be an example to new stylists and highlight the fact that a focus on continual learning will benefit them in the short and long term.”

Aside from attending classes to further their own development, experienced

stylists should also start thinking outside the box to find the right education options for their teams, as well. “Focus on bringing a top educator or artist into your salon and creating an in-salon event or class, which can be tailored to meet whatever needs you have,” says Ritcey. “You can learn while your team learns, and this will foster unity, which is so needed today.”

In addition to investing in teambuilding experiences that cultivate camaraderie, experienced stylists should also consider participating in competitions—like the Contessa Awards!—that push their creative boundaries. “I would challenge experienced stylists, if they aren’t already doing so, to start creating and competing,” says Schwendemann. “Doing photo shoots, creating collections and participating in competitions can help them push themselves and their abilities. When you’re stepping outside of your comfort zone and attempting new techniques and trends, you’re educating yourself; it’s just another way to learn and it enables stylists to grow their skills while being inspired by others.”

Cutting It Up

BY VERONICA BOODHAN

From the coiffed and cropped to the long and textured, we’ve seen a gamut of haircuts this year. Whether it’s the resurgence of retro styles like the bowl, shag or mullet, or newer trends like curtain bangs and the octopus cut, clients are looking to you—the expert— to customize these looks to suit their facial features and lifestyle.

“If a client is bored with their hair and wants a change, the biggest impact is always going to be around the face,” says Mark Chamberlain, a Schwarzkopf Essential Looks artist and owner of Tonic Hair Studio in Peterborough, Ont. “In the salon, we always say, ‘We cut the back for a client’s friends and the front for them.’ If we’re really going to do something that looks different and makes an impact, it has to be in the front.”

In the eyes of many clients, celebrities are the ones who help bring some of these haircutting looks to the masses, yet it’s Fashion Week that often births inspiration amongst stylists. Regardless of where trends are born, it’s vital that hairstylists are able to take the looks clients are craving and transition them into consumer-friendly options.

Level up your haircutting game this season with a breakdown of some of the most in-demand shapes and styles for all hair lengths and genders.

ShortFrom sleek undercuts and tight fades to textured pixies and bobs, short haircuts can work wonders for accentuating a client’s facial features. And while you may not consider these styles a way to build business in the salon or barbershop, they can be a lot more versatile than you may think.

“We’re definitely seeing more pixies and are creating softer fringes with length hanging over, creating a look that combines the classic with the unique. Even though it’s a pixie, it’s not all the same length.” — Lorraine McAndrew, senior creative director, Sassoon Toronto

“Short bobs have been a big trend on the runways with length that hits above the jawline and just below the ear. We’re creating a lot of texture in them with

undercuts and are seeing more geometric shapes and triangles around the occipital area that are very textured, so we have a rounded but flat finish at the nape.” — Edouard Martin, hairstylist at Orbite in Montreal and artist for L’Oréal Professionnel

“There’s been a large demand for more textured bobs. They still have sharper lines but instead of graphic shapes, we’re doing more point-cutting so it’s more lived in. It’s still polished but with a bit more layering and movement. Plus, it’s

Sassoon’s Mid Season 2022 collection combines classic shapes with texturizing techniques for a range of looks that feature gentle graduation with bevelled edges and disconnected interiors for a modernized finish on different lengths and textures.

Shear Confidence

Not sure how to select the right scissors? We asked these haircutting experts for their tips.

PRO TIP CHAMBERLAIN SAYS YOU MAY WANT TO CONSIDER AVOIDING USING A SMALLER SHEAR IF/WHEN YOU USE YOUR MIRROR WHILE CUTTING, SINCE YOUR HAND MAY GET IN THE WAY OF YOUR VIEW.

“The length of shear is massively important. Also, they have to be comfortable in the hand. For example, I can’t use a straight shear—I have to use an o set. I’m a big fan of longer shears. If I’m cutting a bob line, I’ll use a long comb and a long pair of shears because I look at it as two rulers; I can draw a longer, straighter line if I have a longer, straighter line with my tool. I can mimic a five-inch shear with a six-inch but not a six-inch with a five-inch.”

— Mark Chamberlain, a Schwarzkopf Essential Looks artist and owner of Tonic Hair Studio in Peterborough, Ont.

“Whenever I’m doing short haircuts (unless it’s a bob) or pure lines on short or long hair, I always use doubleswivel shears to make sure my wrist is in the correct position. You want your wrists to be as straight as possible, and to have your elbows in. You have a lot more control on how you cut when you’re comfortable.

I like using a smaller shear, such as a four- or five-inch, when creating texture to create small openings in the hair. For layering long hair, I always use seven-inch shears and for scissor-over-comb, I love using a bigger shear—between six and seven-and-a-half inches.”

— Edouard Martin, hairstylist at Orbite in Montreal and artist for L’Oréal Professionnel

“I use smaller shears (five to six-and-a-half inches) for more precision cutting on short, medium and long hair. I use seven-inch shears for scissor-over-comb, shaping an Afro, etc. I even have a pair of nine inches from the streets of Manila, Philippines, that I use for beards!”

— Scott Ramos, global educator for Andis, Winnipeg

“At Sassoon’s, we don’t use super-long scissors. It’s not wrong to; it’s just our preference. For me, I generally use a five-inch and a five-and-a-half-inch would be the biggest. We use the same for all lengths. I know some salons will use a six-inch for things like scissor-overcomb, but for me, to create more detailing and perfect it more, a smaller scissor is better. You have more control.”

— Lorraine McAndrew, senior creative director, Sassoon Toronto

something clients can still blow-dry without having to be fanatical about it with a Denman brush.” — Mark Chamberlain, a Schwarzkopf Essential Looks artist and owner of Tonic Hair Studio in Peterborough, Ont.

“We’re also working with bobs with a light undercut, but not shaved underneath— just with disconnected panels to create a bit more movement and texture in the hair.” — Lorraine McAndrew,

senior creative director, Sassoon Toronto

“For men, we’re seeing skin-and-taper fades with variations of top length, such as a buzz, or keeping a bit of length to push up and over to the side, and the look is really groomed. Short textured crops that are worn forward are also popular and are great for men who want to cover a bit of a receding hairline.” — Scott Ramos, global educator for Andis, Winnipeg

PRO TIP JUST BECAUSE YOU’RE WORKING WITH LESS HAIR FOR SHORTER CUTS DOESN’T MEAN YOU SHOULD SKIP THE FUNDAMENTALS OF A GREAT HAIRCUT. FOR EXAMPLE, POINT-CUTTING TO CREATE A MORE TEXTURED FINISH.

MediumFrom bowl cuts and mullets to longer bobs, mediumlength haircuts can be flattering on a wide range of face shapes.

“Mid-length hair on the shoulder is a great look; it’s got a little bit of length, but you can still style it wavy or straight so it’s very versatile. We’re also working with bi-level layering shapes and bowl shapes.” — Lorraine McAndrew, senior creative director, Sassoon Toronto

“Mullet bangs is another look we’ve seen on the runways. It’s like two haircuts within a haircut. There’s a very strong line around the jawline, and then the back of the hair is just flowing. It’s like having a bob and a longer haircut at the same time.” — Edouard Martin, hairstylist at Orbite in Montreal and artist for L’Oréal Professionnel

“For medium-length hair for men, it’s about keeping some length on the sides for a brushed-back Clark Kent look; a style that’s timeless, clean and sexy.” — Scott Ramos, global educator for Andis, Winnipeg

“I have so many male clients that have longer hair down to the jawline or even to the shoulders, so we’re adding in layers for more definition and versatility.” — Edouard Martin, hairstylist at Orbite in Montreal and artist for L’Oréal Professionnel

PHOTOS: HAIR: LAURA SCOTT AND BAYLEIGH PEACE, MARK LEESON, U.K., MAKEUP: LAUREN MATHIS, WARDROBE

STYLING: BERNARD CONNOLLY,

PHOTO: RICHARD MILES, SASSON GLOBAL, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

“FOR RETRO-INSPIRED LOOKS, THE KEY IS TO PAY HOMAGE TO THE CLASSIC LOOK. THE TECHNIQUES MAY HAVE EVOLVED BUT THE CUT SHOULD STAY GENUINE. I’M NOT SAYING WE SHOULDN’T ADD A LITTLE FLAIR, BUT IF WE CHANGE THE CUT TOO MUCH, IT’S NO LONGER RETRO.”

— SCOTT RAMOS, GLOBAL EDUCATOR FOR ANDIS, WINNIPEG

Long

From shags to octopus cuts, longer styles are now emphasizing more of the face with layers and bangs.

“For long hair, we’re seeing curtain bangs and faceframing cuts. We’re even having the face-framing a bit disconnected from the outline so it’s more of a modified shag.” — Lorraine McAndrew, senior creative director, Sassoon Toronto

“For curtain bangs, I always take a little section down the middle that’s going to be cut around the bridge of the nose, which is going to be my guideline. Then, I take the two other sections/ triangles, and give it a feathery effect with a razor or scissors by slide-cutting or point-cutting so it’s more deconstructed.” — Edouard Martin, hairstylist at Orbite in Montreal and artist for L’Oréal Professionnel

“For those who wear their hair straight, I’ll do more texturizing work with pointcutting and a texturizing blade. If it’s more of a polished finish, I’m definitely working more out towards the end of the hair with point-cutting and texturizing blades. If they wear it loose and more casual with lots of movement, I’ll go with more freehand with slide-cutting and slicing on more of the interior of the hair so there is a looser feel.” — Mark Chamberlain, a Schwarzkopf Essential Looks artist and owner of Tonic Hair Studio in Peterborough, Ont.

“For women, it’s hair that’s down to the mid-to-low back with lots of layers and faceframing. For men, they’re also loving the shag. It’s nice seeing more men grow their hair out!” — Scott Ramos, global educator for Andis, Winnipeg

➤

When working with your client’s natural texture, there are several factors to consider before making the cut.

“I’m doing tons of slidecutting and free-cutting. I like to use gravity, so I don’t elevate things; I use natural fall for everything. A lot of it is personalization; standing back and looking at my shape—we use the word ‘pruning’ when we’re training—but I’m not trying to just build a shape. I’m building a customized shape around how it naturally falls to suit the client.” — Mark Chamberlain, a Schwarzkopf Essential Looks artist and owner of Tonic Hair Studio in Peterborough, Ont.

“When cutting curly hair, once the tension from your fingers is released, the hair will spring back. Don’t cut too much. Less is more! Depending on the desired cut and curl pattern, just make sure you use a hair pick and comb the hair thoroughly before you cut.” — Scott Ramos, global educator for Andis, Winnipeg

“Whether we go with a very textured haircut or a full-length haircut (with no layers), I’m always working in some texture in the ends so the haircut has some movement. With that said, it’s best to leave hair a little longer as you’re cutting; you can always go back in to shorten it, if needed.” — Edouard Martin, hairstylist

PRO TIP CHAMBERLAIN SAYS IT’S IMPORTANT TO DISCUSS HOW CLIENTS WORK WITH THEIR NATURAL TEXTURE ON A REGULAR BASIS. “IF I GO THROUGH THE INTERIOR OF A HAIRCUT ON SOMEONE WHO HAS WAVY HAIR AND I START CREATING A LOT OF MOVEMENT AND TEXTURE, IT’S GOING TO BE MORE DIFFICULT TO STRAIGHTEN.”

at Orbite in Montreal and artist for L’Oréal Professionnel

“I’ve done a shag haircut on a client with texture by smoothing it out before bringing the wave back, and then going through the cut to check it. We’re also seeing lots of bowl shapes right now—especially with curly hair. It’s very ’70s-esque and is especially great for curly hair because it makes it look bigger with more volume.” — Lorraine McAndrew, senior creative director, Sassoon Toronto

“Make sure you don’t overtexturize the hair, which can create more flyaways. For curly and textured hair, I try to cut as blunt as possible. I’ll texturize a little bit, but some stylists choose to texturize right away and when you do, you have less control over the curl’s finish.” — Edouard Martin, hairstylist at Orbite in Montreal and artist for L’Oréal Professionnel

PHOTOS: HAIR: GEORGE SMITH, TONI&GUY, U.K., MAKEUP: MADDIE AUSTIN, WARDROBE STYLING: RUBINA MARCHIORI,

PHOTO: ALEX BARRON HOUGH, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

Schwarzkopf Professional’s Essential Looks autumn/winter 2022 collection combines new grunge-inspired styles with bold, expressive looks and classic techniques.

An inspiring selection of hairstyles that will motivate you to take your craft to the next level.

CONTESSA 2022 FINALIST, CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST Erin Fernandes, ED Hair and Tattoo, London, Ont. MAKEUP Marlene Gerschon WARDROBE STYLING Erin Fernandes PHOTOS Natasha Gerschon

Collections — INT O

This dark and mysterious Canadian collection is brought to life with bold, saturated hues and textured cuts.

Inspired by the architecture of Dubai, this Canadian collection showcases colour mastery with sculptured cuts and styles.

CONTESSA 2022 ENTRANT, CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST Maggie Semaan, Haus of Rtists by Maggie Semaan, Laval, Que. MAKEUP Ria Jaini WARDROBE STYLING Amato Couture PHOTOS John Rawson

CONTESSA 2022 ENTRANT, CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST Johanna Libbey, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver MAKEUP Evelyn Afflecki PHOTOS Kristine Cofsky A

From muted pastels to vibrant hues, this Canadian collection spotlights a wide range of cuts and textured styles.

This British awardwinning collection raises the bar with its range of highfashion styles that celebrate diversity and individuality.

HAIR Robert Eaton, Russell Eaton, U.K MAKEUP Lucy Flower WARDROBE STYLING Clare Frith PHOTOS Richard Miles —

Merging the art of colourblocking with masterful cutting techniques, this Australian Hair Fashion Awards finalist collection rises to the challenge of adding a fresh twist to retro trends.

HAIR Bernadette Beswick, Bezaboo, Australia MAKEUP Chereine Waddell WARDROBE STYLING Emma Cotterill PHOTOS Andrew O’Toole

Collections — BL OCKSTAR

Inspired by the innovative style of Japanese teens, this whimsical British collection is all about celebrating one’s freedom of expression.

HAIR Tim Scott-Wright, Tim Scott-Wright at the Hair Surgery, U.K. MAKEUP Kirsten B WARDROBE STYLING Clare Frith PHOTOS Michael Young

Collections — TOKYO LOVE BOOTH

Striking cuts and mod-inspired styles collide to give this men’s collection a modern flair that emphasizes the power of selfexpression.

Collections

HAIR Shyana & Florian Knittel, SHY + FLO, Switzerland MAKEUP Nicola Fischer WARDROBE STYLING Edgar Balseca PHOTOS John Rawson

PRESENTING

SILVER GOLD SPONSOR

Marie-Josée Dupuis

For Marie-Josée Dupuis, a seasoned Montreal-based salon owner and hairstylist for more 45 years, competitions are all about thinking outside of the box and challenging herself.

“When you participate in a competition like the Contessas, you have to stand out and even provoke people with your work, and I think what really makes a difference is creativity,” she says. “That’s why the Texture category is one of my favourites to enter.”

Challenge Accepted Dupuis started her competition journey in 1980, and today she helps mentor her staff for their salon team’s Contessa

shoot as well as their individual entries. “It allows me and my team to keep that flame of passion well-lit and challenges us to keep moving forward,” she says. “Participating in competitions allows our salon to have incredible visibility, and meet others in the field who have the same thirst to stand out.”

“My team and I need the challenge of competing,” she says, adding that she encourages her staff to compete in the Contessas because she has noticed that it creates a collaborative spirit and synergy between her team. “It unites us and gives us a common goal. When we work on collections, we work together. Everyone advises each other and works hand in hand for the best outcome.”

Face First

As for her 2022 collection, Dupuis was inspired by her models and shares that their physiognomy (facial features and expressions) helped her create her collections. “Choosing the right models is the basis of success,” she says. “I’ve been working with models for many years and they’re the people who inspire me and highlight our creations.”

“When you participate in a category like Texture Hairstylist of the Year, you have to create shapes and textures that are different than what others create, and I always want to step outside of my comfort zone to imagine the unimaginable,” she adds. “For one of the looks, I wanted a geometric shape, so I used foam and metal to create a structure, as well as volume, and increased that volume by creating multiple layers within the hair.”

For another one of her looks, Dupuis wanted a structured yet effortless effect. “I included twisted swirls at the front to create a stiff look, and then added wispy curls to the rest of the hair to create volume,” she says. “And for the last model, I used my fingers to create the texture, as well as disconnected shapes.”

Through her collections and competitions, Dupuis is able to push her boundaries and uses the Texture category as an opportunity to set herself apart from other stylists. “This category inspires me to the greatest extent,” she says. “It allows me to be much more creative than other categories, and I like to create textures that haven’t been seen before.”

“I think competitions are a challenge, and I love challenging myself.”

Rediscovering His Craft

BY VERONICA BOODHAN –PHILIP WOLFF

From getting his start as an apprentice in Maryland to becoming a celebrity hairstylist in Beverly Hills, California, Philip Wol gets candid about his hairdressing journey and how education has been his key to staying inspired—even when he’s the one teaching.

I understand that your mother was the one who suggested hairdressing to you as a profession, but how did you get your start in the industry?

In the late ’90s, I was at a point in my life where I tried college for a little bit but it wasn’t for me. My dad wanted me to go into the military but that wasn’t for me, either. I definitely knew one thing and that was that I wanted to do something where I worked with my hands. I was in computer manufacturing; building computers and servers but they ended up laying me off. I also liked to play the guitar. So, after all the years of my mom telling me I should look into the beauty business, I grabbed a newspaper and started looking through the classified ads because back then, that’s what we would do. I found an apprenticeship opening at a Toni&Guy concept salon [in Maryland]. I spoke with the owner and he asked me all these questions about the school I went to. At the time, I wasn’t sure about the idea of going to beauty school, so I immediately thought I wasn’t going to get it, but we had a good rapport. I didn’t hear back, so a week later I called him and he asked me to meet him at the salon. I went and watched him finish up this haircut—a pixie—and I’ll never forget it because I remember thinking it was the coolest thing I’d ever seen in my life. Long story short, he hired me and asked me to come back to the salon on a Monday morning. I showed up and the salon was closed. Next thing I know, the owner’s car pulls up and he tells me to get in.

He told me that if I really wanted to know what this whole industry is about, it was my lucky day because it was the last day of a hair show that was in town. We drove to the hair show and that’s what really solidified it for me because I saw a world I didn’t even know existed.

I didn’t know about the whole fashion aspect with shows and inspiration. I also got to meet a bunch of cool people, and that’s how it all really started for me.

You mentioned being intrigued by the salon owner’s ability to cut hair, which is something you’re doing now— inspiring people with your haircutting skills. You’ve come full circle. I really have. Any time that I’m fascinated by something that I don’t understand, I have to learn about it. I’m hungry to learn and that’s why I think education is so important.

There came points where I would hit these milestones in my career and then, after being 10 or 15 years in, I was really debating if I still belonged. I took what I thought was the right path, which was to move to the big city, work with some celebrities (which I still do) and get some notoriety. While it was fun and the money was good, it was just the same every day. As an artist, you want variety. I felt like I started losing my practice of other hair that I liked, and why I even got into this. I remember thinking, ‘What is that thing that gets me fired up?’ I went back to all those moments in my history and it all brought me back to education. I started to talk to a buddy about that and we decided to start our own education program and see what happened. We did one and there were three people. The next month, there were six. The next month, there were 10 and then 20, and then people from other cities started asking for classes and it just grew. But ultimately, that’s what got me back into it. It ended up fueling me even more so than I think I’d ever been. It’s one thing to discover something—like I did at that hair show [in Maryland]—but it’s another to rediscover because when you rediscover something, that’s even more powerful. At least it was for me.

You’re also an artist and educator with Matrix. What do you most enjoy about your role?

This is my fifth year with Matrix and what I most enjoy about working with them is that they’re about what they say they’re about: Being inclusive and diverse. I joined at an interesting time with the evolution of the brand, and not only being part of that but watching it happen in real-time—the relaunch of the new branding, working with the global team, working with [development and marketing] and the artists—has been amazing. And not just because of my role on the team but talking to the people who use the products and learning how much they communicate with us when it comes to new development has also been so helpful and important.

You’ve been a part of Matrix’s Mentor.Me for All program, which provides mentorship and education for all stylists. Why is mentorship so important in our industry?

I’ve had many mentors and I continue to; I think they’re important to always have. And it doesn’t always have to be from someone who’s doing exactly what you’re doing. Obviously, in the beginning of your career, you do want that but there are other things in life to learn—like business, for example. It’s an interesting industry because there’s no

set salary. It’s what you make it; what you put into it is what you get out of it. Nothing is handed to you but at the same time, the sky is the limit.

There’s also a new program [Power of the Collective, which focuses on offering free texture education to all stylists]. They really want to focus not just on the products, but the industry and strengthening the artists. When I started doing hair, once you got your license, that was it; there was no book or path to success and you had to make something out of nothing. Now, there’s educational programs and more accessible resources that can help give you a clearer vision of your career path.

How would you describe your teaching style? Any tips on how to make education more accessible? I like to mix in everything from more classic, salon-friendly and usable techniques to trendier, more aggressive and fun things. I think for all levels— even if you’ve been in it for a very long time—it’s always good to brush up on those classic shapes. Of course, today’s looks can be relevant to the type of clientele you want to attract, and even if someone new comes into your salon, you want to at least be knowledgeable on how to approach trends. As we know, social media can be inspiring, but it can also be intimidating for a lot

of people. It can all be broken down into understandable and bite-sized bits of comprehension. I don’t expect people to walk around and remember everything, but even if they just take one thing away, that’s all that matters to me because that’s something they can keep forever. And when they're ready, they’ll add more.

No matter how style and current trends evolve, I think it’s important to keep things as simple as possible. I’ve spoken about efficiency and I think things can be broken down more simply and from there, it’s up to the artist. If you can explain things in a way that can be taken in very quickly, people already know how to alter things to their liking. But if I give it to them in a complex format, they don’t remember because now they’re concentrating on the wrong thing. Let’s break it down: Head shape, elevation, etc. It’s the simple words we understand from the beginning, and all I’m doing is either brushing up on that or they can easily picture those things in their mind and connect to it right away. There are different levels of how people learn; audibly or visually. Some people have to do it hands-on. Ultimately, you’re your own best teacher and once you do it yourself, you’re never going to forget it. You’re also more likely to show someone else.

For more from our interview with Philip Wolff, including his take on haircutting trends and social media tips, visit SalonMagazine.ca.

Excelling in Education

With more brick-and-mortar academies closing their doors, find out how salon owners are keeping education alive (and exciting!) to inspire and uplift their staff while growing their business.

hairdresser meets with the apprentice at least once a week. After one year, the government compensates the apprentice and the salon gets a tax credit, so it works very well.”

While every salon owner’s approach to education will vary and depend on a range of factors—including their number of staff, location, etc.—most will agree that in-person learning can also be a great bonding experience for the entire team.

During the past two years of on-andoff lockdowns across the country, a growing number of educational sessions have pivoted to virtual formats to keep the industry involved in education in these unprecedented times.

As a result, some brick-and-mortar academies have shuttered their doors, forcing many owners to not only embrace education within their salons but to find innovative ways to keep their staff interested in ongoing learning.

“Even though virtual education is good and important for the industry, I don’t think it can ever replace [inperson] classes and seminars,” says Jean-Sébastien Lacombe, owner of Studio Bob & Pine in Rouyn-Noranda, Que., and a master educator for Mekka System. “Having an educator by your side when you’re learning will fast-track the process, ensure that all information is assimilated and minimize

the likelihood that a stylist will fall into habits that aren’t serving them.”

The Real Deal

Keeping in mind the benefits of handson learning and the convenience of virtual education, some salon owners are adopting a hybrid approach.

Ray Civello, owner of Civello Salon & Spa in Toronto, Oakville and Vancouver, and founder of Color Space, is in the process of developing a new education program that helps stylists at all levels of their careers.

“We’ve recently done an audit on skillsets by asking all of our team members what and where they would like to learn, so that we begin with an inclusive approach,” he says. “Based on their responses, we determine who should be at what. We have a diverse group with various levels of skill and experience, so it enables people to participate with excitement and enthusiasm. If you just go and tell them what you’re doing, it doesn’t really help much.”

For Claudia Iacono, owner of Salon Deauville in Montreal, the pandemic inspired her to start a salon academy for hairstylists of all levels, which is an addition to their already-existing education system. “Right now, I have two of my senior stylists teaching the staff and we participate in the government of Quebec’s program in which hairdressers with more than 10 years of experience can keep an assistant under them,” she says. “The program gives you a guideline, and the

“We have quite a structured and intensive training program and when you make it through—as difficult as it can be—it really bonds everyone together,” says Michelle Harrison, director of education for Suki’s in B.C. “You can look around in the salon and know that everyone you work with went through the same thing, so it’s a shared experience and a shared understanding, and it just makes you feel really close to them, which helps create your salon’s culture.”

Thinking Outside the Box

In addition to learning from other staff, providing inspiration from experts outside of your salon is also beneficial and can keep your team engaged in education.

“Not only do I get to teach classes regularly to my team members, I also teach other salons’ stylists and offer a shadowing program for those who want to follow me during a salon workday,” says Lacombe, who’s been an international educator for more than 18 years. “We’ve also brought other educators into the shop to keep growing our staff’s knowledge and skills.”

As for Civello, he’s hoping to develop a balayage certification in his salons and is actively seeking outside talent to help inspire his team. “Although we have great ‘balayagers’ [in the salon], it always works better when

PRO TIP CIVELLO ASKS HIS TEAM TO PARTICIPATE IN AT LEAST TWO CLASSES PER YEAR AND HE’S EVEN MADE IT PART OF HIS HIRING PROCESS SO NEW STYLISTS ARE AWARE OF THIS REQUEST FROM THE BEGINNING.

you have a guest coming in who has good technique,” says Civello, adding that while big-name talent can draw a crowd, he’s careful about not bringing in talent that solely provide inspiration.

“We need inspiration, but we also need structure and real applicable education that we can standardize and use it in the salon. That is what I think is great education.”

Civello has also been focusing on a new project called the YTS (Yonge Talent Salon) program—named after Toronto’s famous Yonge Street—which is meant to support ongoing education with hands-on training and expert coaching from leaders in the industry.

Egos Aside

In addition to keeping emerging hairstylists in mind, it’s also important to be aware of the growing number of independent hairstylists who’ve decided to leave (or forgo) the traditional salon experience and work on their own.

Despite their decision to not go through the traditional means of working in a salon, Iacono says it’s important to make education inclusive for everyone to help grow the industry.

“I’m not scared of teaching somebody that’s just going to start doing home services,” she says. “It’s not something that’s going to stop me from educating others, regardless of how I feel about their decision.”

“Our industry is constantly changing,” adds Harrison. “Things are evolving every year and at least four times a year, if not more. It doesn’t matter where you are in your journey—whether you’re just beginning, you’ve been doing it for over 25 years or how good you are—you can always get better. You can never assume that you know everything. Even if you’re the best in the city one year, you could be nobody the next year if you’re not keeping up to date.”

As for Civello, he believes that despite experience, the art of “mastering the craft” is an ongoing journey that is critical in the industry.

“For a lot of people, you’ll see them build the fundamentals and once they have them, they know that it requires building blocks. That’s where you see education being very powerful,” he

PRO TIP HARRISON RECOMMENDS THAT SALON OWNERS TRY RECOMMENDING SPECIFIC CLASSES TO STYLISTS TO CATER TO THEIR UNIQUE ABILITIES AND IDENTIFY WHAT MIGHT BENEFIT THEM THE MOST.

says. “Ultimately, what you want people to do is master the craft of being able to use new techniques and then really be able to see a human being as an individual and create a customized look. Otherwise, if they don’t continue to grow, we don’t grow.”

Spilling the Tea

Though many hairstylists enjoy taking classes, there are some experienced stylists who may be hesitant to participate in education because they feel they would be learning something they already know. While for others, choosing not to pursue continual learning may simply come down to a matter of finances and a lack of time.

“I find a lot of hairdressers do not want to pay for education—they want it for free,” says Iacono. “Education is a completely different experience right now. It’s not only about doing a

PRO TIP

CONSIDER SENDING OUT A SURVEY TO YOUR TEAM TO GAIN INSIGHT INTO THEIR INDIVIDUAL WANTS/ NEEDS. FOR EXAMPLE, TRY ASKING THEM ABOUT WHICH EDUCATORS THEY WOULD WANT TO SEE SO IT’S MORE OF A PARTNERSHIP RATHER THAN THE OWNER TELLING THE STAFF WHAT TO DO.

good haircut, but it also has a lot to do with your personality; how you present yourself, how you speak to the client, etc.”

“Talking about your own experiences taking classes or attending hair shows is key to motivate younger staff or stylists who aren’t as committed as you are to education,” adds Lacombe. “We all want to be connected in this industry; to be a part of something bigger, and getting together in classes/shows is definitely the best way to achieve it.”

“THE DAYS OF THE HAIRSTYLIST STANDING BEHIND THE CHAIR AND BEING THE ONE THAT HOLDS ALL THE INFORMATION ARE GONE. YOU HAVE TO MAKE SURE THAT YOU KNOW MORE THAN YOUR CLIENTS DO.”

—MICHELLE HARRISON, DIRECTOR OF EDUCATION, SUKI’S, B.C.

Offering hair services with a view of the Lachine Canal, this Old Port of Montrealbased salon has something for everyone.

BY LAUREN FARRUGIA

A Minimalistic Escape

After working in her fair share of salons for nearly 10 years, Marie-Anne Labrie (aka. @pinklablonde) wanted to open her own salon so she could create an environment that fit her values, style and aesthetic.

“Hair salons can sometimes be very dark and cluttered,” she says. “As a colour salon, I wanted to create a very light and clean space that I truly loved.”

Labrie opened Pinklablonde Club in July of 2021 in Montreal’s Old Port. “Opening a space in this area has always been a dream of mine,” she says. “It’s full of beautiful, old architecture and makes you feel like you’re in Paris.”

Bigger and Better

When first planning her salon space, Labrie was only expecting to open a small studio, but as the renovation process began and progressed, her plans did the same. “At first I was looking at smaller spaces but once I saw this space with the big windows, I fell in love. That meant we needed to redo the old plan because it was based on a much smaller space,” she says. “After we redid those,

we updated the electricity and plumbing to make sure those made sense and that they would meet our needs as hairstylists.”

Labrie and her team worked with Unu Construction and renovated everything in the space except the flooring. “Our furniture is custom-made, and we got our stylist furniture from Lanvain Design,” she says. “The renovation took two months because we were rushed, but it was a longer process than expected because of how big the space ended up being.”

Style and Substance

Throughout the design process, Labrie kept her focus on creating a salon that was stylish yet practical. “We really needed it to be functional because we’re a big team and because I knew I wanted to rent the space out for photo shoots, pop-up shops and other events, as well,” she says. “Because of this, I didn’t want to create a location that looked like a hair salon, but at the same time it had to function like one. Once you move the styling chairs, the space doesn’t

PHOTOS: ALEC CHENARD, ZACK COURCHESNE

look like a salon and we can really do whatever we want with it.”

Known for her colour transformations, Labrie knew the importance of having a good colour bar. “We built a huge one that’s 20 feet long so our team could have enough space without walking into one another,” she says. “All of our colour is displayed on the wall so we can see it, and we have everything set up at eye level. This way we don’t have to reach too high, and we can see everything that we need to so we can grab products very easily and nothing is in the way. We wanted this section to be functional but also pretty.”

A Luxurious Experience

Labrie wanted to create a clean space that offers a luxurious experience for all of her clients. “We were inspired by the Jacquemus head office and the look of high-end retail stores in Europe,” says Labrie. “Oftentimes these stores feel like a showroom and the space is very airy, which is what we were going for. I would say the salon is very minimalistic, rejuvenating and calming. You feel good instantly when you walk in.”

“It’s funny because this space is a reflection of my home,” she adds. “Whenever someone who knows me personally comes into the salon, they say it’s an extension of my house because it really reflects my personal style. I chose to incorporate a lot of white and neutral elements partly because I was concerned about regretting the colours, and because it’s one of those shades that never really gets old.”

To offer her clients an even more unique salon experience, she’s also included design elements that she hopes will help them feel more at home. “We have a coffee bar with our own coffee beans, which our clients love; they often have their morning coffee here, which is great,” she says. “We also have a special sink that we call ‘the hidden experience’ as it provides steam and deep treatments that clients really appreciate.”

“We also have a special photo area where clients love to get their beforeand-after photos taken,” she adds. “I want to make sure that our salon is doing as much as we can, and that each chair is providing the best experience for every client.”

Getting Inspired at Kevin.Murphy’s Fast.Forward!

It was an infusion of inspiration and education at Kevin.Murphy’s Fast.Forward event. Featuring the brand’s leading artists and educators, the two-day gathering was filled with stimulating conversations and engaging seminars that encouraged stylists and colourists to adapt to the new era of hairstyling and education to help grow their business.

When & Where: August 7-8, Austin, TX

|

Kevin.Murphy’s new president, Lisa Marx, presented awards to the brand’s 10 top-performing salons in North America, which included Haus of Rtists in Laval, Que., and Eccotique Spa & Salons in B.C.

More than 1,200 hairstylists and colourists attended the event, which featured motivational speakers, before-and-after transformations, on-stage demos and a gala dinner with stage presentation.

More than 40 models strutted the runways in a spectacular display of cutting-edge haircuts styles and colour trends.

| The event concluded with a day of on-stage educational demos led by the brand’s global team.

| Founder Kevin Murphy took the stage to showcase his hairstyling prowess and share more about the brand’s philosophy and commitment to sustainability.

HELP WOMEN WITH CANCER FEEL LIKE THEMSELVES AGAIN

HELPING WOMEN WITH CANCER FEEL LIKE THEMSELVES AGAIN

HELPING WOMEN WITH CANCER FEEL LIKE THEMSELVES AGAIN

With 1 in 2 women facing a cancer diagnosis in their lifetime, you can help the women in your life through the Look Good Feel Better workshop.

With 1 in 2 women facing a cancer diagnosis in their lifetime, you can help the women in your life through the Look Good Feel Better workshop.

With 1 in 2 women facing a cancer diagnosis in their lifetime, you can help the women in your life through the Look Good Feel Better workshop.

Our complimentary workshops help women learn to manage the appearance-related impact of cancer treatment. Topics include skincare, cosmetics, hair alternatives and breast care.

Our complimentary workshops help women learn to manage the appearance-related impact of cancer treatment. Topics include skincare, cosmetics, hair alternatives and breast care.

Our complimentary workshops help women learn to manage the appearance-related impact of cancer treatment. Topics include skincare, cosmetics, hair alternatives and breast care.

The small-group format allows for connection and sharing between women going through a similar experience.

Even more, the small-group format allows for connection and sharing between women going through a similar experience.

Even more, the small-group format allows for connection and sharing between women going through a similar experience.

Tell a woman you love about the LGFB supportive care workshop – available online and in-person. For more information, visit lgfb.ca .

Tell a woman you love about the LGFB supportive care workshop – available in-person and online. For more information, visit lgfb.ca .

Tell a woman you love about the LGFB supportive care workshop – available in-person and online. For more information, visit lgfb.ca .

To find out how you can have an impact by partnering with LGFB, contact Dota Crawford at dcrawford@lgfb.ca.

To find out how you can have an impact by partnering with LGFB, contact Claire Sargeant at csargeant@lgfb.ca.

To find out how you can have an impact by partnering with LGFB, contact Dota Crawford at dcrawford@lgfb.ca.

@LGFBCanada | lgfb.ca | 1.800.914.5665

@LGFBCanada | lgfb.ca | 1.800.914.5665

@LGFBCanada | lgfb.ca | 1.800.914.5665

Award-Worthy Art

Canadian film and television hairstylist Stephanie Ingram, and film and television makeup artist Linda Dowds share what it was like working on the set of The Eyes of Tammy Faye and what it was like to win an Oscar award for their work.

How did you get your start in the hair/ makeup industry, and how did you begin working in film and television?

> Stephanie Ingram: My dad was a hairstylist for over 48 years, so I spent a lot of time in the salon as a little girl and started washing hair in the summers. My dad also had a hair school in Grandfalls, Nfld., where I grew up, so I attended school and then took over my dad’s clients.

A friend of mine was working in the film industry as a makeup artist and hairstylist, and they needed an assistant so I ended up starting on that show, which was a nine-month series. I love working in the film industry because it always brings a lot of challenges, and I really love having to troubleshoot on the spot. It brings me a lot of joy.

> Linda Dowds: I had gone to see a friend of mine, who was working on a show and I ended up chatting with some of the makeup and hair people on set. I was born and raised in Toronto, so I ended up taking a course at Seneca College. From there, I liked it enough that I started taking some private classes with someone who worked in—and was in charge of—makeup at the Canadian Opera Company. I worked there over two seasons and when I was there, I met a makeup artist who was working at Citytv and ended up doing some work there. I was doing both theatre and television work, and I ended up doing some training with a makeup artist who worked in film and got on the list at the union and started from there. I fell into the world of makeup and went through different stages of makeup to figure out what I wanted to do. My favourite thing ended up being character work in film and television; it was where I wanted to be.

Congratulations on your Oscar for your work on The Eyes of Tammy Faye! What was that experience like, and what were you feeling in the moment when you found out that you won?

> Stephanie Ingram: It was incredible! After 32 years in the film industry, winning an Oscar has been the top moment of my career and it’s given me such great accolades. When they mentioned our names, I stood up but couldn’t move. It was like I was frozen in that spot and it was such a surreal moment. To be an Oscar winner has been incredible, and I feel very blessed that I’ve won but it doesn’t change who I am. I work hard, I love to be challenged and I give 1000 per cent to everything that I do.

> Linda Dowds: I’m a huge movie fan, and I’ve always watched the Oscars. Obviously it’s one of the highest acknowledgements that you could receive, and I still can’t believe I won. We were in a strong category full of a lot of talented people and anybody could have won it. I’m just so thankful that we did and I’m really proud of the work I’ve done over the years and of course, my work on The Eyes of Tammy Faye.

It’s kind of the pinnacle of everything. Not just in my career, but for those who are fortunate enough to receive one in any department or craft. It’s a huge thing for me, and I think that it’s opened me up to many more people all over the world. I love the connections that came from being a part of this, and it’s meant so much to me. I also loved it for my mom; it has meant so much to her. She is so proud of me and has been a huge part of who I am, so it was great that she could be there with me when I won.

What advice do you have for hairstylists and makeup artists who are interested in working in the film and television industry?

> Stephanie Ingram: Know that it’s a challenging business and you have to understand that it doesn’t work anything like a salon. The hours are crazy but if you have an eye for it and you can have an open mind about what you’re trying to create, anybody can do it. You just have to have the energy, stamina, and the eye to see the little things that always need to be adjusted or addressed.

> Linda Dowds: Do as much as you can; do things that are cheap and cheerful, and expose yourself to as much work and people as possible, and find what area of work appeals to you. Find what brings you the most amount of joy and go from there. For film work, go to the unions and find out more information from them, and get out working on set as much as you can. Learn from people, get on set and pay attention to what others can teach you. Watch and listen, and when you’re given the opportunity to work with craftspeople, watch how they work on set. Pay attention to everyone on set and their jobs, so you can learn from all of it.

FOR OUR FULL INTERVIEW WITH STEPHANIE INGRAM AND LINDA DOWDS, VISIT SALONMAGAZINE.CA.

TEXT: LAUREN FARRUGIA, PHOTOS: DANIEL C. MCFADDEN, COURTESY OF SEARCHLIGHT PICTURES. CENTURY STUDIOS ALL RIGHTS RESERVED, STEPHANIE INGRAM, LINDA DOWDS

COLOR FOR EVERYONE

Colorance. For every stylist. For every client. For every service. Goldwell delivers what stylists want – rich, shiny color with an amazingly healthy hair feel. Easy. Quick. Versatile. Colorance colors and repairs hair in one step, delivering up to 3 times more shine and up to 5-times-better combability*. See and feel the difference. Discover more at goldwell.com