Salon Magazine, October 2013 by Salon Communications Inc.

Ce 20lebr Ye ati ar ng s!

9 Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

BeSt PrACtiCeS For Building your Colour Biz

better blondes Exploring new lighteners

Colour Contrasts spotlight on... Correction tips... Better ways to market to your clients... Becoming a salon owner... Plus, the 25th Annual Contessa Award Semi-Finalists!

october 13 $5 salonmagazine.ca

WWW.MATRIXCANADA.CA

MATRIX PROFESSIONAL HAIRCARE & COLOR

JOIN OUR “MATRIX CANADA EDUCATION” FACEBOOK GROUP TODAY!

THE MIRACLE OF THE AGAVE STYLING LINE: LASTING, TOUCHABLE HOLD. Imagine...lasting style that won’t dry, dull, or damage hair.

NEW!

Styling

BLUE AGAVE STYLING LINE: THE POWER TO HOLD AND CONTROL

Together. A passion for hair

SHOW US YOUR INTERPRETATION OF TRUE COLOR IN HIGH DEFINITION Submit your photo entry at facebook.com/ SchwarzkopfCanada by October 25th for your chance to win a TRIP FOR 2 TO OUR TORONTO ACADEMY!

WINNER

*IGORA ROYAL Voted #1 Permanent Color – Salon Magazine Reader’s Choice Award, 2012 & 2013

www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca |

facebook.com/SchwarzkopfCanada

NEW! FORBIDDEN COLLECTION Explore the darker side of romance for fall. Shades of desire deepen into obsession. Ravishing. Irresistible. Intoxicating. Embrace your fantasy.

cnd.com ÂŠ2013 Creative Nail Design, Inc.

On Like Polish. Wears Like Gel. Off in Minutes. No Nail Damage*. (Really!)

NEW POLISH REINVENTED

Week Long Wear (Really!) No Base, Self-adhering Color Coat Two Steps for Faster Service Time Durability Increased with Natural Light Matching shades to CND Shellac

WHAT'S YOUR COLOUR?

Find your perfect match from over 60 fabulous shades.

Cream Puff #108

Studio White #151

Lavishly Loved #126

Negligee #132

Romantique #142

Beau #103

Grapefruit Sparkle #118

Strawberry Smoothie #150

Cake Pop #135

Gotcha #116

Pink Bikini #134

Hot Pop Pink #121

Tutti Frutti #155

Hot Chilis #120

Tropix #154

Lobster Roll #122

Electric Orange #112

Hollywood #119

Rouge Red #143

Wildfire #158

Red Baroness #139

Scarlet Letter #145

Burnt Romance #161

Decadence #111

Bloodline #106

Tinted Love #153

Masquerade #130

Dark Lava #110

Married to Mauve #129

Vexed Violette #156

Lilac Longing #125

Grape Gum #117

Purple Purple #138

Rock Royalty #141

Regally Yours #140

Daring Escape #109

Azure Wish #102

Water Park #157

Blue Rapture #162

Seaside Party #146

Midnight Swim #131

Limeade #127

Gilded Pleasure #115

Serene Green #147

Pretty Poison #137

Powder My Nose #136

Impossibly Plush #123

Svelte Suede #124

Rubble #144

Sugared Spice #152

Faux Fur #113

Fedora #114

Night Glimmer #160

Bicycle Yellow #104

Locket Love #128

Steel Gaze #149

Silver Chrome #148

Cityscape #107

Asphalt #101

Overtly Onyx #133

Dark Dahlia #159

Black Pool #105

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Dear Salon Professionals...

Available at your local distributor:

after 31 years and 48 awards, sew psyched to say you’re still my sole mate. Your talent— it’s genius, your allure I’m

undeniable. Together we’ve been

berry naughty in a-list Canadian salons & spas. over the edge, forever yummy in a fifth avenue limo-scene and a turquoise & caicos dive bar, wherever the vanity fairest get wicked. Stay with me, my plumberry, and I will offer you delights like linen, island hopping and my pink diamond. Here’s to the years and more to come of

imported bubbly and

clients together. It’s only

smooth sailing from here!” lovie dovie, America’s nail salon expert. Since 1981. www.essie.ca 1-877-309-8619

Get obsessed at facebook.com/essiecanada

NEW

OIL CARE THATâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S A CUT ABOVE

3X STRONGER , 2X SHINIER HAIR SILICONE-FREE NEW DIAMOND OIL *

strength and shine for dull/damaged hair

Introducing Redkenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s first silicone-free hair oil treatment. Diamond Oil delivers carat strength for 3X stronger hair*, radiant clarity for 2X more shine**, smoothness for 3X more conditioning*** and resilience for 3X less hair breakage+. See the brilliance of a diamond with every drop.

The brand behind *Diamond Oil Shatterproof Shine /Shatterproof Shine Intense vs. non-conditioning shampoo **Diamond Oil Shatterproof Shine / Shatterproof Shine Intense vs. unwashed hair ***Diamond Oil Shampoo, Conditioner and Shatterproof Shine vs a non-conditioning shampoo + Diamond Oil Shampoo, Conditioner and Shatterproof Shine Intense vs a non-conditioning shampoo ++ Diamond Oil Shatterproof Shine / Shatterproof Shine Intense

GET DIAMOND OIL IN YOUR SALON STARTING IN AUGUST Contact your local distributor or call 1-866-9REDKEN

Introducing the new d:fi. For the people who have no interest in being normal. The ones who live every night to the fullest. For the people who treat their bodies as their canvas and the world as their plaything, the new d:fi is now available. And with body heatactivated packaging, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s made to be touched. See the looks. Hear the beats. Rub the bottles.

available at:

QUebeC H. Chalut ltee 1-800-363-2525

all CaNaDa WitH eXCePtiON OF QUebeC 1-888-241-3330

like us on Facebook aT Facebook.coM/aMericancreW

made to be touched

body-heat activated packaging warm up the lid to see the hidden image!

october.13 salonmagazine.ca features 44

colour redux

better blondes

building your colour biz

Taking the fear out of colour correction.

Your top questions about the new generation of lighteners, answered.

Top colourists from across Canada share their best tips and tricks.

bringing beauty to the desert PBA’s annual Beauty Week celebrates the professional beauty industry, plus work from this year’s NAHA winners.

collections

canadian hairstylist of the year awards

Matt Clements, Dimitrios Tsioumas, Dimitri Tsiknaris, CND, Alain Pereque, Chris Williams, Andrew Collinge, Allen Ruiz, Jo Bellamy, Richard Mannah for label.m, Paul Serville and Kyla Rose, Simon-Pierre Daoust, and Alina Friesen.

Check out the list of this year’s 25th

Annual Contessa Awards’ semi-finalists!

on our cover: 24th North American Hairstyling Awards, Hairstylist of the Year Hair: Allen Ruiz, Jackson Ruiz Salon, Austin, Tex. Photo: Jenny Hands

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

matt clements, Queensland, australia

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

WEEKS OF SAN FRANCISCO CHIC!

6 NEW SHADES • SAN FRANCISCO COLLECTION BY OPI

THE BOHEMIANS GELCOLORS FROM LEFT TO RIGHT: Dining al Frisco Peace & Love & OPI Keeping Suzi at Bay I Knead Sour-Dough Muir Muir on the Wall A-Piers to be Tan

WELLA. PASSIONATELY PROFESSIONAL.

NEW

WELLA PROFESSIONALS

OIL REFLECTIONS EMBRACE THE LIGHT: SEE glossy color reямВections, TOUCH luscious lightweight suppleness and SENSE enchanting fragrance with the new OIL REFLECTIONS from Wella Professionals.

CONNECT WITH US AT www.facebook.com/WellaProCanada

... amazing product ...

regularS

“ I use it on every client prior to styling for shine and ﬁnishing and love combining it with Wella Professional Flowing Form Smoothing Balm. Both amazing products!” Philip Ferreira, NATVA 2012 winner; MekkaStudio ITVA 2012 winner; Axis hair salon, Schwarzkopf Vancouver BC profeSSional

22 24

editor’S letter

SalonMagazine.ca

hairlineS

True Blue p. 29; Master of Style p.29; In the Colour of Luxury p. 29; Then and Now: Louis Hechter p. 30; Healthy Head of Hair p. 30; Heat Shield p. 30; The Next Generation of Demi-Permanent Colour p. 31; Revive Your Styles p. 31; Green Corner: Salon Decorum p. 32; Smooth Moves p. 32; Spotted! p. 32; Ultra Nourishing p. 33; Toolbox: FHI Heat p. 33; MultiDimensional Shine p. 34; Autumn Cool p. 34; High and Wide p. 34; Nails: Warm Allure p. 36; Nails: Do Your Lamps and Bulbs Pose a Risk? p. 38; Esthetics: Working in Harmony p. 40; Editor’s Picks p. 42.

conteSSa gallery

... easy to control diMitri... tSiknariS.

“ Firstly the scent queenSland, is so amazing it is like auStralia holiday in alina a bottle. The Oil gives the frieSen, hair a softness that makes it vancouver easy to control and whether you dry curly or straight, it gives your end result a more youthful look.” Dana Lyseng, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver BC

Van, Evolve Style Counsel, Camrose AB

nailS by cnd for the blondS

profile

Trial by Fire: From Client to Salon Owner

buSineSS

8 Ways to Make the Most of Your Client Database

interiorS

Studio Mekka-Schwarzkopf Professional, Montreal

eventS

100

laSt look

Studio MekkaSchwarzkopf profeSSional, Montreal

... three products in one ...

“ My clients all love that they are getting three products in one, as a conditioning agent, wet styler, and dry ﬁnishing product, not to mention the elegance of its scent.” Frank Dicintio, Salon Gaboa, Woodbridge ON

This month at SalonMagazine.ca

Anna Pacitto, Contessa 24, Finalist, Elite Master Hairstylist of the Year

... unbelievable blow-dries ... “ Oil Reﬂections creates a feel of true Luxury for all hair types. As a Stylist, I know that when applied from midshaft to ends before my blow-dries, I’m guaranteed a smile on my clients face. PRICELESS, never disappointing, positively unbelievable blow-dries - even my mouth dropped.”

publiSher’S note

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

Making the MoSt of your client databaSe

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

Studio MekkaSchwarzkopf profeSSional

alina frieSen, vancouver

diMitri tSiknari queenSland, auStralia

nail by c for blon

Studio MekkaSchwarzkopf profeSSional, Montreal

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

regularS 22 24

editor’S letter

SalonMagazine.ca

hairlineS

conteSSa gallery

iS.

This month at SalonMagazine.ca

HEADS.

HAIR Damien Carney

COLOR Sue Pemberton

PHOTO Hama Sanders

Anna Pacitto, Contessa 24, Finalist, Elite Master Hairstylist of the Year

profile

buSineSS

interiorS

eventS

100

laSt look

Trial by Fire: From Client to Salon Owner

8 Ways to Make the Most of Your Client Database

Studio Mekka-Schwarzkopf Professional, Montreal

Making the MoSt of your client databaSe

You’ve never felt POWER like this before.

lS cnd the ndS

publiSher’S note

JOICO.COM

salonmagazine.ca

www.facebook.com/JoicoCanada

EDITOR’S LETTER

Why do you want your demi color to fade?

Fall Faves his is probably my favourite time of year. There’s nothing like the crisp fall air, the digging out of jeans, sweaters and boots and of course, a new, rich shade of colour to

complete the look! The October colour issue falls at the perfect time of year, right when you and your clients will be pondering new shades for the season. You’ll find plenty of inspiration here, between an array of new, vivid collections and technical stories on colour. Special thanks to some of last year’s Canadian Colourist finalists from the Contessa Awards who generously shared their best practices for building their colour business, on p. 48. Encountering clients who have gone far too light this summer and are ready to make a change? Or had an unfortunate run-in with box colour?

Soma Complete Colour

Make sure you check out the story about colour correction on p. 44. This time of year is also exciting because of the annual Contessa Awards, which are fast approaching! In this issue, you’ll find a list of all of this year’s semi-finalists. Congratulations to all of them, as well as to everyone who entered. There was an amazing amount of great work submitted and it was a tough gig for our in-person and online panels of judges to narrow it down. Next up? The finalists’ list. Make sure you go online and sign up for our weekly e-newsletter and be the first to get a look at all the finalists. The list will be published in the e-newsletter in midOctober. And don’t forget to get your tickets to the big event, happening

• Deposit Only, Permanent Color • No Fading • Absolutely No Lift • No Ammonia • No MEA • Keratin Protein Enriched • Sunflower Oil delivery system

I also want to wish all the finalists for the Contessa Awards an early good luck. This is my last issue of the magazine, before I take a year off for maternity leave. But I’m excited to be leaving everything in the capable hands of new editor, Anna Lee Boschetto, who will be filling in for me. If you’re at the Contessa Awards this year, be sure to meet her and say hello. She’s very excited to get to know the industry and all the fantastic people who are at the heart of it. I wish you all a great, prosperous year and look forward to seeing you again next fall!

SOMA HAIR TECHNOLOGY

(866)843-2257 www.somaorganics.com or http://www.facebook.com/somahair Distributor inquiries welcome.

Melissa Hill Facebook “f ” Logo

CMYK / .ai

Facebook “f ” Logo

CMYK / .ai

PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, MAKEUP: LANAGMAKEUP.COM

November 10 in Toronto. They’re on sale now!

Editor-in-Chief

Find me on Facebook at Facebook.com/SalonMag or email me at Melissa@SalonMagazine.ca.

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

salonmagazine.ca

new! Pu re C re a t i v i t y. Pu re Ar t i s t r y. U n l i m i te d Po s s i bi l i te s ! ÂŠ2013 RUSK 13AF145610 call 800.USE.RUSK for more information www.facebook.com/ruskhaircare

@ruskhaircare

AVAILABLE AT:

publisher’s note issn 1197-1495 volume 22 issue 13

s a l onm a ga z i ne . c a

Editor-in-chiEf

Melissa hill 416.869.3131 ext.102 melissa@salonmagazine.ca group Art dirEctor

gillian tsintziras 416.869.3131 ext.106 gillian@salonmagazine.ca Editor-in-chiEf (frEnch)

Yasmin grothé 514.553.4404 yasmin@salonmagazine.ca AssociAtE Editor

Valerie Lam 416.869.3131 ext.119 valerie@salonmagazine.ca onLinE Editor

Jillian Wood 416.869.3131 ext.112 jillian@salonmagazine.ca dEsignEr

stephanie Macdonald 416.869.3131 ext.113 stephanie@salonmagazine.ca

Colour Your World

copY Editor

Jennifer d. foster contributor

chris tsintziras group pubLishEr

ne of the smartest comments I’ve heard lately about

Laura dunphy 416.869.3131 ext.110 laura@salonmagazine.ca

drugstore colour was from a colourist who didn’t mind it.

AssociAtE pubLishEr

Jade bateman 416.869.3131 ext.120 jade@salonmagazine.ca

She said once a client botches at-home colour, she’ll end

sEnior Accounts MAnAgEr

up in the chair for a colour correction. While the client might pay a high

samantha Anobile 310.926.9288 samantha@salonmagazine.ca

price for her correction, the salon will likely gain a very loyal client for life.

Account ExEcutiVE

Megan Jeffery 416.869.3131 ext.220 megan@salonmagazine.ca

That being said, drugstore colour continues to command the majority

production MAnAgEr

Alan swinton 416.869.3131 ext.111 production@salonmagazine.ca

of the colour market, leaving salon colour services flat, according to some

opErAtions MAnAgEr

industry experts. As I’ve mentioned in recent columns, this is likely due to

Karren han 416.869.3131 ext.118 karren@salonmagazine.ca

the unpredictable economy and a lack of confidence from consumers who

circuLAtion MAnAgEr

target Audience Management inc. t. 905.729.1288 f. 905.729.0227 salon@mysubscription.ca

feel they need to cut back on seemingly non-essential salon services. Totaling as much as 40 per cent of overall salon services, colour

ExEcutiVE businEss AdMinistrAtor

treatments continue to be one of the most lucrative you can offer. But if

candice besselaar 416.869.3131 ext.108 candice@salonmagazine.ca

you’re not finding that in your salon, you may want to ask a few questions:

chAirMAn

brian Light 416.869.3131 ext.104 brian@salonmagazine.ca

Are we doing everything we can to get our share of the business? Are we

AssistAnt to thE chAirMAn

pam fulford

offering the type of service and expertise that a box of colour can’t deliver?

VicE-prEsidEnt & WEst coAst Editor

Sometimes the answer is simple: make colour more interesting! It can

greg robins 604.561.4971 greg@salonmagazine.ca

be as simple as making sure that clients are leaving the salon with a few

subscription rAtEs for cAnAdA 1 year (8 issues) $40.00 + tax 1 year (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 HST included. Canadian orders only, must be to same location for us 1 year (8 issues) $50 USD

foils to brighten up dull, flat browns. Even colour correction doesn’t have to be a deal breaker; however, a high level of technical expertise is most definitely required. Ask yourself (and your staff): When was the last time

A d d rEss ch A ngE s Email: salon @ mysubscription.ca

you took an advanced colour class?

fax: 905.729.4432 or send your cover label and new address to: salon Magazine Subscription Services

I have to hand it to professional product manufacturers who are coming By focusing on salon clients, Goldwell launched its consumer-based ad campaign, “Don’t Try This at Home.” And in an effort to address the time challenges that are typically associated with colour services, Schwarzkopf Professional launched Igora 10-minute colour, while JPMS’ Robert Cromeans coined the phrase, “Lunchtime Colour.” This issue of Salon is dedicated to all things colour. In addition, you’ll always find a colour story in every issue; it’s our way of ensuring that you’re getting the very best tips and tricks that will help you keep your colour business strong.

Photo: alvaro goveia, makeuP: lanagmakeuP.com

up with creative opportunities to draw consumers back into the salons.

phone: 905.729.1288

PO Box 357, Beeton, On L0G 1A0 Canada sA Lon M AgA Z inE

365 Bloor St. E. Suite 1902 Toronto, On, M4W 3L4 t. 416.869.3131 f. 416.869.3008 641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada Ltd.)

Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, PO Box 357, Beeton, ON, L0G 1A0 Canada

National Magazine Awards Gold

Silver

2008 2003 2002 1998 1995

2009 2003 2001 1997 1996

Top Five

2009 2008 2002/2001 2000/1999 1996

Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40011270

Printed on recyclab

This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilites exist.

The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

Laura Dunphy Publisher

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

printed in C A n A DA

From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail salon@tamicirc.ca. Our privacy officer is Brian Gillett at 905.729.1288.

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

COLOR PREPARE or COLORIST BEWARE!

Prime hair with Malibu C Color Prepare for color success without the stress:

wellness beauty collection

Hair Treatments Gently draws out color-blocking elements to ensure unprecedented color absorption, coverage and retention

■

This ultimate primer, prolonger and protector counteracts brassiness, dullness and discoloration while helping to extend color vibrancy ■

Accelerates processing time and boosts revenue as the perfect add-on service or retailed for take-home use ■

Nature-identical antioxidant vitamins stop oxidative action of peroxide and other salon chemicals to prevent scalp irritation and burning

■

Patented, crystallized vitamin complex freshly-activates in the palm of your hand offering an innovative wellness treatment

■

GOOD THINGS COME IN SMALL PACKAGES Free of gluten, sulfates, preservatives, parabens, propylene glycol, DEA and fragrance www.MalibuC.com/color | 1.800.622.7332

Blazing Highlights Brighter Blondes Body, Bounce & Shine Flake-Free Scalp & Itch Relief Hard Water Wellness More Vibrant Hues Repair Damage Stress-Free Corrective Color Swimmers’ Solutions

Skin Treatments Soothe and improve appearance of skin affected by:

Acne Age Spots Dermatitis & Eczema Dry Skin Hyperpigmentation Keratosis & Skin Tags Psoriasis Razor & Wax Burns Rosacea Sensitive Skin Sunburn Tattoos Wounds & Scarring Wrinkles

online at > Essen tial Lo...

MAGAZINE

salonmagazine.ca

> Pop Art by ...

> Shap ely See...

> Facto ry Girls...

> Big Personal...

> Straig ht Ahe..

Get your tickets to the greatest show on earth! Visit SalonMagazine.ca for details about this year’s Canadian Hairstylist of the Year Awards gala, how to get tickets and more! The biggest beauty and hair awards show in Canada takes place November 10 in Toronto and tickets always sell out!

MOST-READ STORIES

Sign up for Salon’s weekly newsletter and be the first to find out the Contessa finalists on SalonMagazine.ca! Fall/Winter 2013 Runway Hair Colour Trends THINK PINK Raise funds for breast 4 Original Ideas to Attract New Clients 3 Salon Fails Your Sales Rep Won’t Tell You About

TALK TO US! 26

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

cancer research in October with our list of pink products.

See the embarrassing hairstyles Salon Magazine staff members regret the most from their past on SalonMagazine.ca. (Please don’t judge us!)

SEE ONLINE EXCLUSIVE COLLECTIONS Oiseau Salon, Sassoon, Jo Bellamy and more!

TOP PHOTO: CONTESSA 24, WINNER, BRITISH COLUMBIA HAIRSTYLIST,TIMOTHY KUO, MARKUS J HAIR,VANCOUVER, MAKEUP:TIMOTHY HUNG, PHOTO: PATTY YUNG-CHEN TSENG, COLLECTION PHOTO: CREATIVE DIRECTION: ROB MALONE, HAIR: JEFF CUDDY, JENNIFER PLANTA, CARMINE ROMANO, ANDREA BELL, MAKEUP: HILLARY GRIMM, STYLING: ROB MALONE, PHOTO: EMA SUVAJAC, RIBBON PHOTO:THINKSTOCK

Download Salon Magazine’s App. Same great magazine. Now in your pocket.

facebook.com/SalonMag twitter.com/Salon_Magazine pinterest.com/SalonMagazine salonmagazine.ca

Discover Scruples’ Creme Color System • Vibrant dimensional, conditioning color • Time-saving formulas • Expert results every time

Permanent and Demi Permanent Haircolor

Single–Step Brilliant Highlights

Single–Step Creme Lowlights

Only in professional salons Stylist: Charlie Price • Haircolor: William Whatley • Haircut: David Steiner • Makeup: Rhonda Jackson • Photography: Robert Lobetta

scrupleshaircare.com

d r a rs d n e a t p S p i l w e C N y e t Th u D y v a e In H

HIGH PERFORMANCE SILENT RUNNING MOTOR COMPACT AND LIGHTWEIGHT USES SAME BLADES AS OSTER® CLASSIC 76® Our most compact clipper uses vibration isolators and a comfortable texturized grip for better control and less fatigue. Electronically regulated 3 speeds provide optimal control for all hair types of hair and cutting techniques.

76175-010

hairlines news

True Blue

The feature ingredient in Matrix Biolage Styling line, blue agave, brings strength and shine for hair.

Master of Style

Beauty taps into ancient botanicals with three new Matrix Biolage Styling products, made with blue agave. Harvested for centuries for its health-giving properties, the ingredient

Are your clients on-the-go and

puts natural nutrients back into hair. With the

looking for stylers that will flow

ability to hold, nourish and maintain

with, instead of cramp, their

intricate styles, it is infused into

schedules? Revlon Professional

Agave Nectar Control Gel, Blow-in

Style Masters introduces Creator

Control Shape Memory Cream and

Memory Spray, a refresher spray

Pliable Paste Matte Texturizer. Hair’s

that can be applied to dry hair and

beauty is naturally restored with a

worked through with fingers for

formula for all hair types that doesn’t

flexible hold and pliable texture.

damage, dry or dull locks.

Also, Volume Amplifier Mousse, Elevator Spray and Smooth Iron Guard join the Style Masters line with modern repackaging.

photos: chris tsintziras,thinkstock

in the colour of luxury

salonmagazine.ca

Nutrilux Full Cover offers a colouring system that promises rich, natural and precise results. Think about what your average colour client wants. How can you go above and beyond her expectations? Intercosmo Nutrilux Full Cover is a semi- and permanent-colour cream solution free of ammonia that offers grey coverage, superior lightening performance and is made with a luxe macadamia oil technology that promises bright, consistent and lasting colour results that’s also gentle on hair.

o c t o b e r. 1 3

salon

hairlines news Nov+Dec 1996

Salon Magazine Celebrates 20! Then and Now: Curls are still in. Stylist: Louis Hechter, L’Oréal Professionnel portfolio artist and owner of Orbite hair salon in Montreal The Look: Super-tight curls, reminiscent of the ’70s, heralded the comeback of perms in the fall of ’96. “That was an interesting look back in the day that has somehow managed to become sort of a classic,” says Hechter. Then: Orbite opened in 1990. The salon quickly made a name for itself as one of the most coveted beauty destinations in the country. Since then, Hechter and Orbite have racked up the prizes. In 2002, he and his team were recognised with seven Contessa awards, including Canadian Hairstylist and Canadian Salon Team of the Year. Now: Hechter has a multifaceted career that includes working with A-list celebrities, such as Celine Dion and Shania Twain, being a portfolio artist for L’Oréal Professionnel and also styling hair for actors and musicians. This past summer he worked with the celebrated band Macklemore and Ryan Lewis, who shot their latest video in Montreal. Despite all the recognition, his salon remains Hechter’s biggest pride and joy.

The new Goldwell DualSenses renews from the inside out. Healthy hair is undeniably a great base for beautiful styles. To restore hair health, Rich Repair is a newly formulated Goldwell DualSenses line that penetrates deep into the hair, replacing lost lipids inside the hair structure and resulting in smooth, shiny, repaired hair. In-Salon: Incorporate a treatment using Regenerative Serum which repairs hair in a matter of seconds, leaving hair with superior shine. At-home: Prolong the healthy hair regimen by retailing the new 6 Effects Serum, made with six concentrated active ingredients resulting in shine, silky movement and hair that’s less prone to frizz and breakage. The full Rich Repair line also includes 60sec Treatment, Cream Shampoo, Anti-breakage Conditioner and Thermo Leave-in Treatment.

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

Heat Shield The new 450° Heat Defense collection line by Sexy Hair delivers transformative stylers. To create memorable styles, more often than not, a hot tool is a must. Guard against thermal damage with products that nourish and protect hair from high heat. The Sexy Hair 450° Heat Defense range, which includes 450° Protect Heat Defense Hot Tool Spray and 450° Headset Setting Spray, offers thermal protection up to 450 degrees with a variety of shine and hold strengths.

photos: chris tsintziras, sexy hair

Healthy Head of Hair

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

The Next Generation of Demi-Permanent Colour Get ahead in colour technology with Shines XG hair colour from John Paul Mitchell Systems.

What if you could combine all your hair care product needs into 1?

Make clients’ transition from summer to fall hair colour a smooth one with new Shines XG, which offers 51 intermixable shades of ammonia-free, demi-permanent cream hair colour, ideal for versatile and creative colouring. Try it for grey blending and coverage that fades on tone, lasting four to six weeks, or build gorgeous tone-on-tone colour with precise results. Shine XG features the DYESMART system, which offers an optimal balance of oxidative primary dyes and couplers for colour penetration.

REVIVE YOUR STYLES Two new stylers from Structure add zing to a client’s look.

Just in time for the fall, Structure introduces Animate Bodifying Styling Crème and Conform Hard Clay, two workable products that can add another dimension to styles. Structure Animate Bodifying Styling Crème boosts body and volume, PHOTOS: PAUL MITCHELL, CHRIS TSINTZIRAS

adds moisture, shine and definition, plus, reduces breakage in

salonmagazine.ca

hair by up to 62 per cent in one treatment. Structure Conform Hard Clay finishes with a matte texture with medium hold that feels and looks clean. Ideal for short or medium lengths and clients looking for separation, the clay can also be layered on for extra control.

www.uniq-one.com 1-800-387-7980

o c t o b e r. 1 3

salon

GREEN CORNER Salon Decorum and Green Circle Salons kick-start hairstyling careers for rescued girls in Kenya.

SMOOTH MOVES

HAIRLINES NEWS

New and improved keratin smoothing technology has arrived.

The demand for silky, smooth hair will always draw in clients. Answer them with Hair Cares, an initiative started by Mandy MacFadden at Salon Decorum in Newmarket,

the new technology found in

Ontario, brought several manufacturers and Ontario salons together to donate

Keratherapy Pure Renewal

professional products and tools to fulfill the wishlist of Kenya-based charity, Mully

System, free of formaldehyde,

Children’s Family (MCF). MCF rescues girls from the sex trade and provides care and

harsh chemicals, and down-

education, like learning how to become a self-supporting hairstylist. With donation

time. In the 90-minute

collection facilitated by Green Circle Salons, the wishlist was filled within its first year,

treatment, the glyoxylic acid

resulting in enough professional equipment to be used for the girls’ training. Starting in

mimics formaldehyde, linking

fall 2013, the second phase of Hair Cares will enable the rescued girls to receive $1,000

the internal protein bonds of

sponsorships for a three-year hairstyling education program at MCF and build their own

the hair, which strengthens

salon, which costs approximately $6,000.

strands during ironing.

To learn more and get involved, visit salondecorum.com or follow on Twitter, @haircares4mcf

Transform frizzy and unruly hair into silky stands, which last up to 12 weeks.

hair colour collection Spotted! F/W’13 takes cues from street styles. 1. Rose gold retro waves on British DJ and fashion icon, Mary Charteris. The hot apricot-amber hue was seen at Bottega Veneta and on celebs like Jessica Chastain. 2. Icy brown bob on American model, Langley Fox Hemingway. Ranging from dark ashy to cool chestnut, the new

brown is frosty and perfect for a trendy bob. 3. Silver blonde chignon on French singer/

L’Oréal Professionnel has found inspiration from three of today’s trendsetters for the new

actress, Ella Waldmann.

fall/winter 2013 It Looks, a fashionable colour collection, created by Odile Gilbert and

The new blonde is modern platinum, ranging from

Frédéric Mennetrier.

intense grey to subtle silver highlights.

To learn the colour formulas of these three looks, go to SalonMagazine.ca

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

PHOTOS: GREEN CIRCLE SALONS, KERATHERAPY, L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, CHRIS TSINTZIRAS, FHI HEAT

salonmagazine.ca

ULTRA NOURISHING

You can with

Shea butter leads the next generation of luxe hair care.

Saryna Key Professional digs deep into nature’s best healthy hair ingredients for a new line of protecting, restorative care that addresses the needs of damaged, fine, curly and coloured hair, as well as specialty challenges, like dandruff control and grey hair. The star ingredient in the Saryna Key products is shea butter, which is spun through a special process producing three layers of oil that protects from thermal damage and strengthens hair. This acts as a treatment by offering high quantities of keratin to renew hair’s natural keratin supply.

TOOLBOX FHI HEAT EPS BLACK DIAMOND CERAMIC DIGITAL HAIRDRYER “The hair dryer has a heat temperature control that allows me to precisely set heat for each individual client, according to his/her hair type, for a perfect style every time.” — Kevin Gatto, FHI Heat stylist, Verde Salon, Collingswood, N.J.

Unbelievable ALL IN ONE benefits include... 1 Repair for dry & damaged hair

2 Shine & frizz control 3 Heat protection 4 Silkiness & smoothness 5 Hair color protection /

with UVA & UVB filters

6 Easier brushing & ironing 7 Incredible detangling 8 Long-lasting hair style The hairdryer heats up from 99°F to 241°F to customize settings on a variety of hair types and textures.

Read fan speed settings easily with five colour codes.

Made with a lightweight AC motor and RAPIDTEK heating technology, hair is dried evenly in less time.

9 Split ends prevention 10 Adds body

www.uniq-one.com 1-800-387-7980

salonmagazine.ca

NOW AVAILABLE IN A SPECIAL EDITION COCONUT FRAGRANCE o c t o b e r. 1 3

salon

hairlines news

Autumn Cool New Schwarzkopf Professional IGORA Vibrance shades pull hues from nature.

multidimensional shine New Chromatics Beyond Cover delivers high coverage and street style-factor.

Inspired by the stunning colours of a sunset, Schwarzkopf Professional Autumn Sunset Colour collection adds five new shades to IGORA Vibrance in combination of gold, chocolate and copper. Ammonia-free and demi-permanent, colour pigments are accumulated in layers during processing, which ensures the most brilliant of colours and lasting results. The ultra-protecting oil-blend formula imparts moisturizing and reparative properties while sealing in each colour layer for a surface that evenly reflects in shimmering light.

Cover introduces five cool hues just in time for fall that promise to turn heads, including two new colour families: iridescent/ gold that reflects beige and a hint of golden violet and brown/ violet that reflects cool and plum brown, with violet accents. Effectively covering 75 per cent or more grey, Chromatics delivers pigment with advanced oil delivery, infusing hair with protein extract and argan oil for true-to-tone, even coverage. The

High and Wide Give clients voluminous, runway hair with Moroccanoil. Take hair to the next level with Moroccanoil Root Boost, the newest styling product inspired by and tested backstage at the runway and red carpet. It offers natural-looking oomph for every hair type and texture by thickening strands at the roots.

result? Stylish new colour backed

Runway technique: Apply Root Boost on towel-dried hair, focusing on the roots. Lift hair in sections from the

by a technology that leaves hair

scalp while blow-drying for a healthy, voluminous look. Root Boost can also be applied before using

twice as strong and smooth.

hot tools.

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

photos: chris tsintziras, schwarzkopf professional essential looks 2013

Redken Chromatics Beyond

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

Seductive. captivating. intoxicating.

Her every wish is his command with this selection of striking shades guaranteed to keep him Under Her Spell 21 Days later. Dark, richer hues I’m No Stranger To Love, A Touch of Sass and Love Me Like A Vamp, combined with creamier neutral shades My Nightly Craving, Want To Cuddle? and Lust At First Sight create a palette that evokes femininity and sensuality that’s undeniable. Fall in lUSt again anD again.

QRCODE Error Correction Level: Low

Model is Wearing Gelish in Love Me Like A Vamp & Lust At First Sight

QRCODE Error Correction Level: Med

AvAilAble September At:

LoVe Me Like A VAMp 01578

My NiGhtLy CrAViNG 01579

A touCh oF SASS 01577

QRCODE Error Correction Level: Med

LuSt At FirSt SiGht 01581

WANt to CuddLe? 01580

i’M No StrANGer to LoVe 01576

gelish.com

QRCODE Error Correction Level: High

Scan • Watch • Learn

Performs like Gel, Applies like Polish™ Ask your local distributor for genuine Gelish today Made in the USA 714. 773. 9758 © 2013 hand & Nail harmony • Brea, CA 92821 - Gelish and hand & Nail harmony are registered trademarks of hand & Nail harmony, inc. hM-2542

HAIRLINES NAILS

CUCCIO Rose Gold Romance gives a subtle shimmer for just the right touch of sophistication.

CND The new CND Shellac Intimates collection is pure pretty, with shades like Blush Teddy.

Essie’s manicure for Billy Reid F/W’13

Warm Allure

CHINA GLAZE Spontaneous is part of the seven Ombre sets, conveniently packaged for on-demand nail art.

Fall’s hues are deep and intense.

DASHING DIVA The Fall/ Winter DesignFX collection is full-on fashionforward.

EZ FLOW Velvet Rope is one of the six cool colours of the Boogie Nights’ Night Life collection.

ESSIE Rich pigment is bottled up for the Winter 2013 collection, like Shearling Darling.

GELISH Stay on top of fashion with texture-ready nail designs using Trends, a unique soak-off gel polish that can be used as a top coat, overlay or solo.

OPI The Mariah Carey Holiday set will prompt another party with 18 playful hues, including six Liquid Sand shades.

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

TEXT:VALERIE LAM, MODEL PHOTO COURTESY ESSIE, PRODUCT PHOTOS COURTESY CUCCIO, CND, GELISH, EZ FLOW, CHRIS TSINTZIRAS

SPARITUAL Inspired by Italian master glassmakers, the Illuminate collection adds artful glamour.

salonmagazine.ca

Beauty is timeless,but achieving it takes minutes. GL Apps is Great Lengths’ answer to tape-in extensions, but with a difference. Where traditional tape-in methods sandwich the client’s hair, GL Apps are sandwiched between the client’s hair allowing the extension panels to lie flatter against the scalp and making the attachment areas virtually undetectable. Additionally, they are quick to apply, re-usable AND made with superieor Great Lengths hair - what’s not to love? Visit our website to discover what GREAT LENGTHS EXTENSIONS can do to enhance your career as a professional salon stylist and see our 2013 educational schedule.

www.greatlengthscanada.com

HAIRLINES NAILS

NEW IN NAILS

Do Your Nail Lamps and Bulbs Pose a Risk? Debunking the Myths

More Findings

“I’ve never seen a non-issue blow up to become such

Professional manufacturers ensure that their products

a giant deal,” says Doug Schoon on increased public

and equipment line up with the most current research

concern over the claim that ultraviolet (UV) nail lamps

standards. To this effect, Dr. Robert Sayre, who

cause cancer. Schoon has been an industry scientist

developed the SPF ranking system and owns research

for CND as head of the research and development

enterprise, Rapid Precision Testing Laboratories, in

laboratory for nearly 20 years, and is co-chair of the Nail

Cordova, Tenn., and Dr. John Dowdy, a molecular

Manufacturers Council. He finds that the media and

biologist, worked together on new research, which

their dermatologist sources seem to be distorting facts

evaluates the risk in UV and LED lamps to skin and

and research, and creating controversy. For example,

eyes, and whether this gives cause for manufacturers

according to Schoon, the dermatologists’ research

to create new products to protect the safety of the

One of the latest ways to

is not conducted under the same standards as the

public (via American National Standards Institute (ANSI)

get glossy is with Striplac,

nail industry, using equipment that does not comply

RP-27 methods). “I had many concerns going into the

a peel-off UV nail polish by

with industry standards. The televised dermatologists

study, but I have to say that none of them developed.

Alessandro International.

“don’t understand the services or the products” and

The only concern is that somebody gets the wrong

The first of its kind, Striplac

draw conclusions based upon flawed premises, such

bulbs into the lamp units,” says Dr. Sayre. Here are key

is a polish that cures in LED

as equating nail lamp wattage to the amount of UV

points from the findings:

light, lasts up to 10 days and removes quickly by

•

Fluorescent and LED bulbs do not pose risks for

simply peeling off. It does

sunburn and skin cancer because the time of UV

not replace nail sculpting or

exposure is too brief for any skin injury.

a soak-off UV manicure and

There is virtually no UV radiation in normal use of curing

is perfect for clients who

by the manufacturer, because the manufacturers have

nail lamps found to harm the eyes. This is different

love to protect their natural

already tested it as safe to use,” says Schoon.The concern

from tanning salons, where guests are asked to wear

nail and wear a durable

arises when nail techs disregard the manufacturer’s

goggles to protect their eyes; UV- and LED-cured nail

polish. The formula is free of

instructions, leading to an improperly cured product and

services do not require protective eye wear because

solvents and acetone, and

a less-than-professional experience. That means, the

the radiation level is insignificant.

the service can add revenue

a bulb consumes,” he explains, not UV exposure.

LED versus UV lamps “Nail technicians need to use the right lamp for their particular product, which has been specifically developed

question between using LED or UV bulbs isn’t a matter

•

Compared to the stomach, back and face, the back of

of “more” or “less” UV-exposure risk, but complying

the hand is four to five times less sensitive to harmful

with the recommendations outlined by the manufacturer,

sun exposure to begin with.

which includes correctly replacing aging bulbs.

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

with easy application in 24 trendy colours. Striplac Starter Kits are now available in Canada.

TEXT: VALERIE LAM, PHOTOS: THINKSTOCK, STRIPLAC

exposure. “The wattage refers to the amount of energy

New UV/LED Nail Technology

salonmagazine.ca

KEVIN.MURPHY SHIMMER.SHINE IS A REPAIRING SHINE MIST DESIGNED WITH DUAL PURPOSE; TO TREAT & STYLE YOUR HAIR AT THE SAME TIME

KEVINMURPHY.COM.AU INTERNATIONAL BEAUTY SERVICES ALBERTA, SASKATCHEWAN & MANITOBA 800-642-3818

WEST COAST BEAUTY BRITISH COLUMBIA 800-661-2707

LIQUID LUXURIES SALON SYSTEMS DIVISION OF TBBS ONTARIO & MARITIMES 800-387-2962

HAIRLINES ESTHETICS

Working in Harmony Two experts share their advice for professional skin care in between and after the most popular non-invasive procedures: microdermabrasion, skin tightening and laser resurfacing. With non-invasive procedures gaining popularity, it’s a perfect opportunity for

Skin Tightening Purpose: To create the appearance of tighter

estheticians to offer supporting skin care.

skin by reducing extra water and producing

“Broadly speaking, the skin therapist’s job

collagen, usually around the face and on the

comes in during the skin’s aid and recovery

abdomen, thighs and arms. It’s a popular

period, since these procedures actually create

alternative to going under the knife, says Suri,

a wound response in the skin,” explains

who sells treatment packages in sets of 12,

Kerri Houweling, co-owner and head medi-

with weekly visits at her spa.

esthetician in Halifax’s Vibe Salon Medi-Spa,

What Skin Needs: Optimal collagen

who also teaches advanced clinical skin care

production. This means protection from

programs. Here’s what you need to know

UVA rays, which break down the collagen

about the regimens.

that clients want to keep in their skin,

Microdermabrasion

and vitamin-C serums, which Houweling

Purpose: To buff away dead skin cells on skin’s outer layer, leaving behind a new, smoother layer. Microdermabrasion helps treat acne, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation.

recommends with ongoing use to prevent skin from sagging over time.

Laser Resurfacing Purpose: To clear away a layer of skin, which involves different degrees of intensity and

weeks, and packages can be sold in sets.

recovery time. As a result, skin is “baby-

What Skin Needs: Due to the variety of

fresh” and very vulnerable after resurfacing

areas microdermabrasion can target, always

treatments, according to Houweling.

invite clients for a skin consultation to assess

What Skin Needs: Maintenance of skin

goals and treatment intensity. Hydrafacials

quality, with close consultation from a skin

and anti-aging photofacials are two services

therapist or physician, since it’s missing a

recommended by Kavita Suri, medical spa

layer of protection. Houweling says that post-

director and owner of Toronto’s Infuse Med

procedure care often involves a balm-like

Spa. Hydrafacials infuse skin with serums

moisturizer that mimics a layer of skin and

of collagen.

containing nourishing antioxidants and

advises limited exfoliation and the use of

Hydration is key for skin recovery.

hyaluronic acid. Anti-aging photofacials are

professional products free from fragrance and

also great add-ons, penetrating the dermis

preservatives, all of which may irritate skin.

Protect the skin’s surface with a

Cheat Sheet: the 3 Layers of Skincare 1.

Nourish skin at a deeper level with products that stimulate the growth

layer to stimulate collagen production.

daily application of sunscreen. — Kerri Houweling, co-owner and head medi-esthetician of Vibe Salon Medi-spa, Halifax.

Marketing Tip

e Much like how a colourist specializes in one aspect in the salon, a “skin therapist” is an esthetician who is specially trained to assess and treat skin conditions. As the

demand for skin care increases, try highlighting the skin experts on your team by adopting the term “skin therapist” to help boost a professional and relevant look on your menu of services.

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

TEXT: VALERIE LAM, PHOTO:THINKSTOCK

Treatments commonly occur every four

salonmagazine.ca

Take your business to the leading edge with

EDUCATION • QUALITY INNOVATION • SUPPORT Visit www.lcn.ca/whylcn

bc ab sk mb 1.800.557.3223 • central & east 1.888.859.3434

HAIRLINES NEWS

Editor’s Picks Six new top-of-the-line products

Pureology Colour Fanatic This lightweight mist imparts 21 benefits that prime, protect and perfect colour-treated hair prior to styling. Info: pureology.com

for your salon shelf.

Tangle Teezer An attractive and ergonomic detangling brush that is suitable for all hair types. Info: tangleteezer.com

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

Bosley Professional Strength BosRenew Volumizing Dry Shampoo With DHI inhibitors to help maintain healthy hair and scalp, hair is cleansed, conditioned and appears fuller. Info: bosleypro.com

Schwarzkopf Professional BC Bonacure Oil Miracle Volume Amplifier 5 and Divine Polish Both are formulated with a blend of five nourishing oils. Info: schwarzkopfprofessional.ca

TEXT: VALERIE LAM, PHOTOS: CHRIS TSINTZIRAS

L’Oréal Professionnel Mythic Oil Souffle d’Or This luxe duo imparts radiant shine and is made with vitaminrich ingredients. Info: lorealprofessionnel.com

Malibu C Color Correction The Color Correction crystals remove undesirable colour and colour blockers, including trace minerals and impurities. Info: malibuc.com

salonmagazine.ca

From the Heart crème

Conversation glitter

Reminisce shimmer

Comfort

2 0 1 3 FA L L C o L L e C t i o n

shimmer

Our Fall 2013 Color Collection Share features timeless natural neutrals, shimmering copper, midnight blue, and deep red. Rich, uncomplicated colors that fall in step with a slower, more thoughtful pace. Try all six shades and of course, Share with a friend. Midnight Stroll crème

Uncomplicated crème

Experience SpaRitual in the Relaxation Area. ISPA 2013

Slow Beauty for a Fast World. ®

877.SPARITUAL

SPARITUAL.COM

CONCEPT JP QC 450.687.2595 bElmONda bEauTy QC 514.697.4100 WEST COaST bEauTy BC 604.321.2700 maRITImE bEauTy SuPPly NB, NS, PEI 902.429.8510 ICON SalON SySTEmS BC 604.591.2339 ALTERNATIVE BEAUTY SERVICES ON 905.670.0611 SummIT SalON SERVICES AB, SK, MB 403.252.6201 INTERNaTIONal bEauTy SERVICES AB, SK, MB 780.454.3388

Colour Redux Taking the fear out of colourcorrection work. By Melissa Hill

he broad title of “colour correction” in the salon includes a wide range of services. Many experienced colourists, including Rodica Hristu, a master colourist for Goldwell

and at De Beradinis Salon & Spa in Toronto, consider it a correction anytime a client wants to make a major change. Catherine Allard, a Redken artist and colourist at Odyssée Salon in Montreal, also sees problems like faded ends, blondes with a green tint or clients who experimented with box colour—and lost. While it can certainly be a challenge, they both agree there’s no reason to fear this type of work. In fact, both say they’re invigorated by the challenge. Read on for how to remain calm, cool and collected when faced with a messy colour. Step 1: Book enough time. When handling bookings, consider treating each new colour client as a colour correction. Michelle Pargee, a Contessa-winning colourist and owner of Milica SalonSpa in Langley, B.C., says this allows her to start with a clean slate. “You don’t know what’s been done to the hair,” she says. “Ninety-eight per cent of the time, I know what the colour will come out like, but sometimes guests don’t give the whole story. You have to prime the hair and it takes time.” By booking properly for that first appointment, you know you’ll leave yourself time to complete all

Step 2: Make a plan. “The most important consideration when doing colour correction is asking yourself if the hair is healthy enough to get the desired result or does it need some reconstructing treatments with colour correction in phases and steps to maintain the hair's integrity," says Sue Pemberton, international hair colour artistic director for Joico. Answering those questions will form the basis of the plan that you’ll put together to take the client from point A to point B. Allard recommends writing down exactly what steps you intend to take, along with the cost involved for each one. “When you write down the steps, you can see if you missed one and you can’t cut corners. Write it down and stick to your plan,” she says. This has the extra benefit of fully preparing the client for the cost and time involved. Step 3: Communicate with your client. So much of good customer service comes down to communication, and with colour correction, it is no different. “Consultations are a

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

Hair: ricHi Grisillo,Toni&Guy PaddinGTon, ausTralia, MakeuP: Mikele siMone sTylinG: leTicia dare, PHoTos: andrew o’Toole

the steps, including a pre-treatment, if necessary.

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

key for colour corrections. Asking the right questions is so important,” says Philip Ferreira, of Axis Salon in Vancouver and a Wella educator. “What is the real level? What is the tone? When clients want darker or a specific blonde, what level and tonality do they really want? Listen, listen, listen to what clients are saying.” Hristu agrees, and recommends making sure that you and the client have agreed on the end result. “Make the client understand what he or she is looking at and asking for and what he or she is going to get. Give the cliet some visuals, like hair strands; something he or she can picture,” she says. “Just because a client likes a picture, doesn’t mean it will look good on him or her. If you know it’s going to be a failure, don’t be afraid to say, 'No'.” Step 4: Take your time. “Sometimes what a client asks for can be done in one visit. But often, with a colour correction, it won’t be possible without causing damage to the hair,” says Allard. “I prefer to be really honest with the customer. Sometimes it’s a lot of time. If she has three colours in her hair and wants a natural colour, it may be impossible in one shot.” She often finds that even by making one or two steps toward the desired result in the first visit, the client will be delighted by the change—and know her hair will be healthier in the end.

love it or hate it? Colourists share their thoughts on colour correction. “Love the challenge! I always

clear expectations. I think as a

and energy to take a client ready

in progress.’”

learn something new from

colourist it is important to rise

for a change to the next level

— Denise Meikle

colour correction.”

to those challenges and learn

with complete trust. What better

— Audrey Adrine Petrosyan

from people’s mistakes.”

way than creating a complete

— Dylan Raine

colour makeover?”

“I consider every single colour

— Natalia Holowasz-Morlacchetti

“Love the challenge, love being forced to think outside the box, love feeling like I can

service a correction. By doing this,

“LOVE, because I know how

your abilities as a colourist grow

to fix someone’s bad work and

“I love having to ability to make

inspired self.”

at an incredible rate. My issues

now I'm their saviour!”

beauty out of chaos!”

— Deirdre McKenty

are with lack of time and patience.

— Helene Krznarich Briffa

— Marla S Love

“I love it! It creates a

“Love it!!! Always up for a good

it’s a great challenge. Love

challenge, as long as the client

challenge! Keeps me fresh.”

working through the layers.”

understands the process and

— Robbie Sherman

— Shonna Blaskievich

“Love it, but clients don’t

“Love it, just hard sometimes!”

understand they may not get

— Kimberly Coleman

So I love corrections, but I dislike the time the harder ones take.” — Michael Levine “I enjoy a colour correction. I

the price.”

think the hardest part is making

— Laura Land

sure the client truly understands the process involved. Set

salonmagazine.ca

“I love colour correction,

what they want right away.

because it gives me the passion

Sometimes they are ‘a work

be my most creative, most

“Love! It pushes the envelope,

Via Facebook.com/SalonMag

o c t o b e r. 1 3

salon

Better Blondes Your top questions about the new generation of lighteners, answered. By Melissa Hill

ver the last year, a new crop of lightening products have hit the professional market. Most have the same goal—faster lightening, higher lift and more respect for

the quality of the hair. It’s come at a time when trends are dictating those needs, as well. “It’s a resurgence of that Old Hollywood,

Anna Faris shows off her best platinum style.

beautiful, on-the-scalp lightening,” says Amie Goltz, Scruples’ director of field education and the Scuples Academy. “We’re trying to find ways to achieve that without looking bleached and toned.” Ready to be enlightened? Here’s a primer on what you need to know.

Lightener, use lower volume developer. “For people with more fragile hair, you can retain more of the integrity, and it keeps the hair in much better shape using only a 20-volume developer instead,” says Goltz.

Q. How does it work? A. Matrix’s new Light Master lightener uses technology that boosts

Q. How do some of these new lighteners differ? A. Traditional, powder-based bleach will often be used with upward

oxygen during the lightening process. This allows hair to lighten faster,

of 40-volume developer to achieve the necessary lightening and to

with up to eight levels of lift. It’s quick, but controlled, according to

pull back the cuticle to tone properly. These bleaches can also be very

Roch Lemay, Matrix’s lead educator. It can also be formulated for

irritating to the scalp. New lighteners, like Scruples’ Blazing Blue Oil

both on- and off- scalp application and uses panthenol to protect

Especially for blonde clients, ensuring the

with water, then wipe the bleach off with a

peroxide and seals the cuticle. “If you are

integrity of the hair is top of mind. One

towel,” says Trisha Rice, educator for Malibu

doing lowlights next to highlights, this will

of the ways you can help do this is by

C. But this can leave developer still working,

also help keep the lowlights from bleeding

stopping developer at the right time, which

even when you think it's not. Instead,

into the highlights,” says Rice. “You will

will help alleviate scalp sensitivity and

consider trying Malibu C’s multi-purpose

see healthier, shinier hair without the

breakage, as well as ensure that toners

Crystal Gel. Often used as a part of a two-

breakage.” Add Crystal Gel to foil packets

take as expected. What can you do when

step wellness and clarifying treatment that

to stop the processing during the service

some areas have finished processing before

removes hard water and mineral buildup,

or masage throughout the hair and scalp

others? “Typically, what a colourist will do

it can also be used by colourists post-

after the service, following with shampoo,

is open the foil packet and spray it down

colour. It immediately normalizes pH, stops

conditioner and styling as normal.

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

Photo:s: imagecollect

Preserving Hair Health

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

and condition. “With today’s fast and busy lifestyle, salons wanted a product that performed faster to achieve the desired result, but still wanted to keep the fibre respect,” says Lemay.

Q. How does it help preserve hair quality? A. “One major concern is the quality of hair after lightening. Some

Q. What are the benefits of using a lower-volume developer? A. While some colourists don’t lighten hair enough, others lighten too much, which causes a host of issues with the hair. “Lighteners contain more powerful ingredients compared to colour and this means it is much

colourists want a product that has enough speed to be quick in a

easier to damage the hair,” says Susan Boccia, Education Manager for

shorter amount of time. Others are concerned over the quality of

Schwarzkopf Professional. “Oftentimes, we over-lighten the hair and this

the blonde, with even lifting throughout the hair, and the lightener

makes it much more difficult to tone. Over-lightening also damages, so

being comfortable on the client’s scalp,” says Alain Laroche, director

hair won’t look healthy, style as well and toners will not last as long.”

of professional development for L’Oréal Professionnel Canada. The

Boccia recommends using lower developer strengths with lighteners, to

company’s Infinie Platine is able to lift eight levels in 50 minutes.

allow for more control of how fast and light the hair becomes. “It’s a great

It also leaves hair in better shape using synthetic molecules that

way for a new colourist to work with lighteners and build their speed, as

reproduce the components of hair’s natural keratin. This offsets the

well as confidence,” she says. Schwarzkopf Professional’s new Crystal Gel

loss of the hair’s essential substance during a chemical procedure

is also a good tool for junior colourists. It processes clear, allowing them

and strengthens the structure, according to Laroche. It can be used

to observe the lifting process. “They can remove the product at the exact

on-scalp, as well as for highlighting and ombre techniques.

moment when hair is lifted, to get it to where they want it to be. This is also great for corrective colour,” says Boccia.

Tips & Tricks

Don't skimp on the bleach. When lightening, make sure you saturate the product through the hair, says Amie Goltz, Scruples' director of field education and the Scruples Academy. “When the product dries out, it stops working. Make sure it is so saturated that you see the product

and you really don’t see the hair.”

Agree on a shade of blonde. When choosing which product to use, make sure you and the client are on the same page. “Saying blonde to a client can mean a multitude of things and it goes back to the consultation. This helps you decide when to do highlights, base breaking or bleaching to get what he/she is looking for,”

says Goltz.

Get the right amount of lift. Make sure you’ve achieved the proper amount of lift before toning. An easy way to check is to ask if the hair looks like the inside of a banana or the outside. If it’s the outside, you haven’t lifted high enough. “In some cases,

Kate Bosworth sticks to the lighter side. salonmagazine.ca

you may need to apply a second application of lightener before toning,” says Goltz.

o c t o b e r. 1 3

salon

Building Your Colour Biz By Melissa Hill

aving the best technical skills with colour is not the only thing you need to get ahead. To really build your book, you need the right customer service skills, as well. Here, nine

past Contessa Canadian Colourist of the Year finalists share their top tips for getting—and keeping—your colour business booming.

1. Show off your work. “We

create

commercial

collections

that

feature

hair

colour

clients would be attracted to. Then, we advertise these photos through posters for the salon and sending them in our emails

Top colourists from across Canada share their best practices.

to clients. This creates word-of-mouth that allows for client referrals.” —Silas Tsang, co-owner of Blushes, Ottawa

2. Solicit referrals. “One rule we use at the salon is to give clients two business cards. One is for them and we ask them to hand the other out to the first person who compliments their hair colour. This is a great way to build clientele. If your clients love their hair colour, they will be happy to do so.” —Julie Vriesinga, artistic director, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont.

3. Create personalized colour for every client. “With regard to referrals, we make sure not to give friends the ‘same’ colour! I hear from guests all the time about how their last colourist made them all look the same (they usually discover it when they all get together at a party or for drinks and then the search for a new colourists begins). You have to create a personalized look, especially for referrals!” —Alann Sluser, owner, KOKO the Salon, Edmonton

4. Know your colour. “Be aware of what the client needs, whether it’s using a semi/demi permanent, permanent or ammonia-free colour. If you can provide the right type of colour—for example, using a demi-permanent colour or ammonia-free

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

“

Being current and constantly seeking education makes for a great hairstylist.

PHOTOS: CONTESSA 24, FINALIST, CANADIAN COLOURIST, HAIR: SILAS TSANG, BLUSHES, OTTAWA, MAKEUP: JAN CHAN, PHOTOS: BABAK

—Jessica Van Kuyk

colour when necessary—it can make a world of a

idea of a new colour or a new colour service will

is transitionary—maintenance with a little

difference in giving the hair much more vibrancy

grow and they will eventually ask. Suggesting

transition to the next season. The visit after

and longevity the client never had before. Once

new ideas must happen at every visit.”

that, we transition to the new season—brighter

you achieve that, the client will never leave you.”

—Simon-Pierre Daoust, PlanéteHair Coiffure,

and lighter for summer, richer for the fall,

—Tim Kuo, co-owner, Salon Haze, Vancouver

Montreal

darker into the winter. Every season has a transition. By letting them know ahead of time,

6. Be realistic.

7. Talk about your education.

they know change is coming and they never

“A client will come in with a picture of a celebrity

“Early on in my career I was hesitant to talk

have to ask for it. And they know that I have

and say 'I want to look like this' and often I have

about my experience or education. I realized

a plan to keep them current, fun and fresh.”

to steer them toward a more realistic look.

that this was a huge oversight. Being current

—Michelle Pargee, owner, Milica SalonSpa,

So, I start off by asking the client what she

and constantly seeking education makes

Langley, BC

doesn’t like about her hair. If you can pull out

for a great hairstylist. The best advice I can

four or five things she doesn’t like and then fix

give to young stylists is to constantly seek

the top one or two things, you’ll be better off.

education, and always remain open to learning.”

If you nail those two things, she will love it.”

—Jessica Van Kuyk, director of technical

“Clients love the consultation. It’s your chance

—Michael Shire, director, colourist and

education, Suki’s, Vancouver

to sit down, ask questions, explain to them what

stylist, Holt Renfrew Salon, Toronto

9. Do a great consultation— every time.

steps you’re going to take and make them feel

8. Keep it fresh.

comfortable about the service. Especially for

6. Tap into your current client base.

“The main reason a colourist loses clients is

clients who are afraid of colour or who’ve had

“The most important tip is to suggest colour

because they become bored with us. I plan

colour problems in the past. Look at their eyes,

services to all your customers, every visit. We

out my clients’ colour a year ahead, adjusting

look at their skin tone as part of the consultation.

have a tendency, as hairstylists, to stay in our

the plan to the client, depending on how

As you do this, you’re building the trust with

comfort zone. Our job is to suggest new ideas

trendy they are. The first visit is establishing

them. You hear it so many times and it sounds

and looks to customers, even the ones who

a new colour that’s great for them, according

like a broken record, but it is so important.”

have been coming to the salon for many years!

to the season. The next visit at three to six

They might not say yes the first time, but the

weeks is maintenance. The visit after that

salonmagazine.ca

—Marlo Steenman, Hair by Marlo, Edmonton

o c t o b e r. 1 3

salon

Bringing Beauty to the Desert PBAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s annual Beauty Week celebrates the professional beauty industry, pulling together manufacturers and distributors, along with salon owners and top stylists from across North America.

Photos courtesy Professional Beauty association

By Melissa Hill and Yasmin GrothĂŠ

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

rom business education and

celebrating the finalists and winners in 14

inspiration to the latest product

categories, the award show offered artistic

launches for hair, skin and nails at

presentations from Aveda, Goldwell and

NAHA WINNERS

Cosmoprof North America, you’ll find just about

Dimitrios Tsioumas, the recipient of the 2012

everything that’s happening in the industry

NAHA for Hairstylist of the Year. Hairstylists

during the Professional Beauty Association's

in attendance included Vivienne Mackinder,

Beauty Week, which happens annually in Las

Tabatha Coffey, Nicholas French and Damien

Vegas in July.

Carney. Actor and entertainment reporter Mario

For many, the pinnacle of PBA Beauty

Lopez hosted the event and was the recipient

Week is the North American Hairstyling

of the PBA Beautiful Humanitarian Award for

Awards (NAHA). In addition to honouring and

his contributions to a number of charities.

Highlights from PBA Beauty Week 2013

The sold-out Cosmoprof North America

Her best advice? Worry less about the

show floor featured 892 exhibitors with

numbers and more about being authentic and

more than 26,000 attendees. In addition to

listening to what is being said by customers.

new brands from around the world, the floor

Also, remember to express gratitude more

also hosted industry leaders like AII, CND,

often online—and try to keep devices out of

Essie, Hot Tools, L’Oréal Professionnel, Malibu C,

the bedroom!

OPI, Orly, Rusk, Schwarzkopf Professional,

Sexy Hair and Wella Professionals.

Celebs like Dita Von Teese, Pamela Anderson and Marilyn Monroe* were

Every year, the industry’s elite gathers

on hand to make the show floor even more

for City of Hope’s Spirit of Life gala

beautiful! Von Teese (pictured above right)

fundraising dinner. This year’s event honoured

was styled by John Blaine, creative director of

Reuben Carranza, the North American CEO

Obliphica Professional. Monroe, meanwhile, is

of Wella Professionals, for his contributions

the perfect new spokesperson for Sexy Hair.

to the industry and for his philanthropic work.

*(A fab Monroe impersonator!)

Funds raised this year will be directed toward

diabetes research, a disease that has affected several of his family members. The dinner was hosted by Mario Lopez.

It’s (still) all about nails! The biggest trends for fall include ombre, different

textured finishes and 3-D elements. OPI also launched its new professional site, Pro.OPI.

Arianna Huffington gave a keynote

com, while CND’s Jan Arnold was on hand for

address on the first day of the show to

the announcement of the company’s first Tippi

a packed house. She spoke about the value of

Hedren Professional Nail Scholarship to benefit

social media as word-of-mouth marketing.

young nail artists in the United States.

salonmagazine.ca

Avant Garde Matt Swinney, Evolution, Minneapolis Contemporary Classic Geno Chapman, Julian August, Los Angeles Editorial Stylist of the Year Sherri Jessee, Sherri's Hair Salon, Bristol, Va. Haircolor Sue Pemberton, Sue Pemberton LLC, Henderson, Nev. Hairstylist of the Year Allen Ruiz, Jackson Ruiz Salon, Austin, Tex. (see p. 68 for his winning collection) Make-Up Artist of the Year Katy Albright, Katy Albright Salon, Waxhaw, N.C. Master Hairstylist of the Year Dimitrios Tsioumas, Mizu New York, New York (see p. 56 for his winning collection) Men’s Hairstylist of the Year Matthew Morris, Matthew Morris Salon and Skincare, Denver Newcomer Stylist of the Year: Jeremy McDougle, Lunatic Fringe Salon, Salt Lake City Salon Design Mitch Men’s Salon, Normal, Ill. Salon MBA Neroli Salon & Spa, Milwaukee Salon Team of the Year Lunatic Fringe, Salt Lake City Student Hairstylist of the Year Stormie Roberts, Eric Fisher Academy, Wichita, Kan. Texture Anthony Cress, Studio 4 Salon, Denver

o c t o b e r. 1 3

salon

An astounding showcase of inspirational style from the NAHA 2013 winners.

Newcomer Stylist of the Year

Avant Garde

Editorial Stylist of the Year

Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Hairstylist of the Year

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

Student Hairstylist of the Year

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

Hair ElitE

Salon Team of the Year

Texture

Make-Up Artist of the Year

Haircolor

salonmagazine.ca

Contemporary Classic

o c t o b e r. 1 3

salon

disco strobe The winning Colour Technician work at the Australian Hair Expo shines in a radiant spotlight.

To see more images from this collection, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

Hair: Matt Clements, The Assembly Hair, Queensland, Australia Makeup: Lauren McCowan Styling: Natashya Manfield Photos: Paul Scala

salonmagazine.ca

o t o b e r. 1 3

salon

s u o r d n o y s W him W s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

The winning 2013 NAHA Master Hairstylist of the Year collection is anything but conventional.

Hair: Dimitrios Tsioumas, Mizu New York, New York Photos: Babak

To see more images from this collection, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Collections. salonmagazine.ca

o c t o b e r. 1 3

salon

Hair: Dimitri Tsiknaris, Queensland, Australia Makeup: Kaliope Thomas Styling: Thessy Kouzoukas Photos: Jason Zambelli

Like a stunning collision of particles, these unexpected colour combinations hit the creative stratosphere.

To see more images from this collection, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

Aurora

Borealis

salonmagazine.ca

o c t o b e r. 1 3

salon

photos courtesy cnd

This runway nail collaboration is inspired by the “Forbidden” themes in classic thriller films, with a dazzling dash of Swarovski crystal. Nails by CND for The Blonds New York F/W’13.

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

! d e h c y s P salonmagazine.ca

o c t o b e r. 1 3

salon

Hair: Contessa 24, Finalist, Canadian Hairstylist of the Year, Alain Pereque Salon Pure, Montreal Makeup: Ekaterina Ulyanoff Photos: Ara Sassoonian

To see more images from this collection, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

Coif Bionique This Canadian collection is a nod to futuristic, tight styles.

salonmagazine.ca

o c t o b e r. 1 3

salon

Combining smooth and airy textures, hair is given a contemporary, organic feel.

Hair: Chris Williams, RUSH Hair, London, U.K. Makeup: Lan Nguyen Styling: Jo Philips Photos: Stuart Weston

To see more images from this collection, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

Natural Grain salonmagazine.ca

o c t o b e r. 1 3

salon

Hair: Andrew Collinge, Andrew Collinge, Liverpool, U.K. Makeup: Liz Collinge Photos: Roberto Aguilar, Bed Head Studio

Totally Touchable To see more images from this collection, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

Soft and supple, this wearable hair moves with natural grace. salonmagazine.ca

o c t o b e r. 1 3

salon

Hair: Allen Ruiz, Jackson Ruiz Salon, Austin, Texas Photos: Jenny Hands

To see more images from this collection, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

e m Ă¨ r C

e m Ă¨ r C 13

20 e h T

salonmagazine.ca

a l e d

A NAH

list y t s ir

ear Y e th

ni win

ect l l o c

el m o s

w n is

le. p im

o t o b e r. 1 3

salon

Hair and colour: Jo Bellamy, Jo Bellamy Salon, Sydney, Australia Makeup: Isabella Schimid Styling: Alicia Doust Photos: Karla Majnaric

Musing along... Fashion and beauty icons from yesterday are reinterpreted with new palettes and cutting-edge techniques. To see more images from this collection, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

salonmagazine.ca

o c t o b e r. 1 3

salon

Hair: Richard Mannah for label.m Professional Haircare Makeup: Nicole Thompson for M.A.C Styling: Hayley Smith Photos: David Mannah

Svelte

Gorgeously effortless is the effect of this moody collection.

To see more images from this collection, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

Hair: Harry Boocock and Chris Horsman, The Hair Studio, Leeds, U.K. Makeup and styling: Justine Collins Photos: Jim Crone

salonmagazine.ca

o c t o b e r. 1 3

salon

On trend with the seapunk movement, this collection from the Southern Hemisphere showcases ravishing, pure pigments.

To see more images from this collection, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

salonmagazine.ca

Hair: Paul Serville and Kyla Rose, Servilles, New Zealand Makeup and Styling: Margaret Petchell Photos : Andrew Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Toole

siren song salonmagazine.ca

o c t o b e r. 1 3

salon

Hair: Contessa 24, Finalist, Canadian Colourist of the Year, Simon-Pierre Daoust, PlanĂ¨te Hair, Montreal Makeup: Ashley Gesner, David Vincent Styling: Matthew Chow, Marie-Ă&#x2C6;ve Dutrisac Photos: Greg Swales

To see more images from this collection, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

Power

Palette

salonmagazine.ca

Vibrant, complementary and creative colours mark this crystalline collection.

o c t o b e r. 1 3

salon

Hair & Art Direction: Alina Friesen, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Hair assistant: Blake Moldenhauer Makeup: Maee Kroft Styling: Wendy Cook Photo: Kale Friesen

Hocus Pocus

This new canadian collection embraces all the delights of mystique.

To see more images from this collection, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

MINUTES

PURE Bliss P OF

Total body wellness begins with the feet™

500,000 Reasons TO OFFER

DETOXSOAK™ SERVICE IN YOUR SPA/SALON

The feet have 500,000 sweat glands that help remove toxins from the body. Soaking the feet with DETOXSOAK (for 15 minutes) and a 15 minute DETOXSOAK Somatology Massage will help to de-stress, relax and refresh the body. ™

™

try it today! DETOXSOAK™ KIT CONTAINS: 8 DETOXSOAK™ packets and includes FREE one 4 oz. DETOXSOAK™ Massage Serum and set of technique cards Item #719383 $52.99

Each Detoxsoak™ Service is infused With: CITRUS AURANTIUM AMARA PEEL Soothes inflammation and refreshes the skin

Artemisia absinthium De-stresses and hydrates the skin

magnesium sulfate Detoxifies and flushes toxins

Phellodendronamurense Bark Smoothes and renews the skin

DETOXSOAK™ STARTER KIT CONTAINS: 1 DETOXSOAK™ packet, one 1oz. DETOXSOAK™ Massage Serum and set of technique cards Item #719384 $8.99 DETOXSOAK™ Somatology Massage Serum 4 oz. Item #719385 $10.99

15 minute Herbal DETOXSOAK™ treatment.

15 minute DETOXSOAK™ Somatology Massage

To ﬁnd a location near you, visit cosmoprofbeauty.com or call 1.888.241.3330

CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST Alicia Austin, Capelli Salon Studio, Saskatoon Andor Bubelenyi, Fuss Art of Hair, Edmonton Johnny Cupello, JC Salons, Toronto Joseph Dellicarpini, Locale J Hair Design, Thornhill, Ont. Erin Fernandes, Maria Bikas Salon, London, Ont. Alina Friesen, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Sandy Hogue, Panache Salon, Montreal Janet Jackson, JouJou Hair Studio, Etobicoke, Ont. Timothy Kuo, Salon Haze, Vancouver Guy Lemieux, Berns & Black Salon, Winnipeg Dana Lyseng, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver, B.C. Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, B.C. Alain Pereque, Saco, Montreal Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton Michael R. Shire, Holt Renfrew Salon and Spa, Toronto Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon and Spa, Oshawa, Ont. Chad Taylor, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Julie Vriesinga, Entrenous, London, Ont. CANADIAN SALON TEAM Berns & Black Salon and Spa, Winnipeg Blunt Salon, Edmonton Blushes, Ottawa Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. Donato Salon & Spa, Mississauga, Ont. Elan Hair Studio, Winnipeg Enrico Coiffeurs Styliste, Montreal J’aime Coiffure, Montreal JC Salons, Toronto, Ont. KOKO the Salon, Edmonton local B, Montreal Locale J Hair Design, Thornhill, Ont. Oblic Salon Urbain, Montreal Plush Salon & Spa, Medicine Hat, Alta. Salon Cyan, London, Ont. Soho Salon & Spa, Etobicoke, Ont. Taz Hair Co. Kingsway, Toronto Taz Hair Co. Yorkville, Toronto Timothy & Co. Salon and Spa, Oshawa, Ont. World Salon, Toronto ELITE MASTER HAIRSTYLIST Isabelle Baril, Eclectic Salon Spa, St-Eustache, Que. Véronique Beaupre, local B, Montreal Michael Crispel, Earth A Salon by Michael Crispel, Toronto Pietro D’Aquila, Salon Odyssée, Montreal Martin Hillier, The Lounge Hair Studio, Vancouver Jorge Joao, Koi Hair Studio, Brampton, Ont. Edwin Johnston, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont. Leroy Ludovic, Medz Salon, Verdon, Que. Mandy Macfadden, Salon Decorum, Newmarket, Ont.

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

Guylaine Martel, Guylaine Martel Artistes Coiffures, Mont-St-Hillaire, Que. Tracy Murnaghan, Salon 12 Hair and Spa, Charlottetown Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, B.C. Alain Pereque, Saco, Montreal Josée Renaud, Josée Renaud Coiffure, Quebec, Que. Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon and Spa, Oshawa, Ont. Renn VanDyck, Elan Hair & Esthetics, Winnipeg Heather Wenman Scratch, Studio H, London, Ont.

MASTER COLOURIST Catherine Allard, Roxoboro, Que. Adriana Balea, Flaunt Boutique, Toronto Lindie Blackwell, Spyce Spa and Hair, Barrie, Ont. Claude Comeau, Spirit Spa, Halifax Alma Head, Alma’s Family Hair Salon, Sydney, N.S. Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont. Dana Lyseng, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver, B.C. Amanda MacMillan, Salon 12, Charlottetown Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, BC. Audrey Adrine Petrosyan, Industry Hairdressing, Toronto Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon and Spa, Oshawa, Ont. Jessica Van Kuyk, Suki’s, Vancouver Karen Weir, Salon 56, St. John’s Jacquelyn Yeremy, Verve Salon & Spa, Sherwood Park, Alta. CANADIAN COLOURIST Patricia Ajani, Saco, Montreal Melanie Bourne, JC Salons, Toronto Julie Carr, Dragonfly Salon and Spa, St. Thomas, Ont. Simon-Pierre Daoust, PlanèteHair Coiffure, Montreal Christina Dominelli, Christina Dominelli Salon, Edmonton Erin Fernandes, Maria Bikas Salon, London, Ont. Alina Friesen, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Ann-Marie Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. Joey Marchese, Bob & Paige, Toronto Kirsten McIntosh, New York New York, Ottawa Karly Menzies, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. Elaine Morin, O Salon, Montreal Michelle Oliver, Kick Hair & Body, Edmonton Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, B.C. Alann Sluser, KOKO the Salon, Edmonton Marlo Steenman, Hair by Marlo, St. Albert, Alta. Chelsea Sutherland, Hair Factory, St. John’s Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Julie Vriesinga, Entrenous, London, Ont. Emma Wolliscroft, Valentino’s Grande Salon, Whitby, Ont.

SESSION HAIRSTYLIST Pete Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. Amy Laing, Ponytails + Horseshoes, Edmonton Olivier Miotto, Glam Salon Boutique, Montreal Kristin Page, Hedkandi Salon, Calgary Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, B.C. Chris Pritchard, Daniel Christopher Salon, Regina, Sask. Dat Tran, Dat Salon, Toronto Lisa Tuff, Salon College, Etobicoke, Ont. Caffery VanHorne, Studio Caffery VanHorne, Toronto Caylee Wasilenko, Hype Hair Studio, Vancouver TEXTURE HAIRSTYLIST Tarran Chesney, Studio H, London, Ont. Christina Dominelli, Christina Dominelli Salon, Edmonton Jody Kezar, Evolve Hair Studio, Toronto Marye-Eve Laquerre, DanCoiff, St-Pierre-les-Becquets, Que. Amanda Milburn, JC Salons, Toronto Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, B.C. Alann Sluser, KOKO the Salon, Edmonton Kimberly Turmel, Zazou Salon & Spa, North Vancouver, B.C. Karine Vezina, Salon Niccio, Ottawa Julie Vriesinga, Entrenous, London, Ont. MEN’S HAIRSTYLIST Lance Blanchette, The Lounge Hair Studio, Vancouver Gianpaolo Colombo, Hairafter Salon & Spa, Toronto Matthew Conrad, Victory Barber & Brand, Victoria, B.C. Pete Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. Ian Hearth, Storm Hair Group, St. Catherines, Ont. Guy Lemieux, Berns & Black Salon, Winnipeg Sarah Mak, Zinc Hair, Vancouver, B.C. Thomas Melong, Vivid Hair and Body, Antigonish, N.S. Paul Pereira, Solo Bace, Toronto Mikka Trista, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton AVANT GARDE HAIRSTYLIST Liz Amorin, Echo Hair Studio, Kingston, Ont. Thomas Cameron, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Elshadai Erbeto, McKinnon Hair Design, Hamilton, Ont. Alina Friesen, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Stéphanie Gougen, Max & Co., Montreal Jody Kezar, Evolve Hair Studio, Toronto Paula Naccarato, Studio H, London, Ont. Amanda Rendell, Studio H, London, Ont. Loretta Tom, Salon Haze, Vancouver Josie Vilayvanh, Élan Hair and Esthetics, Winnipeg MULTICULTURAL HAIRSTYLIST Martin Alarie, Pure Salon, Montreal Thomas Cameron, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Erin Fernandes, Maria Bikas Salon, London, Ont. Janet Jackson, JouJou Hair Studio, Etobicoke, Ont.

salonmagazine.ca

Michelle Oliver, Kick Hair & Body, Edmonton Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, B.C. Stephanie Schewe, Salon College, Toronto Alann Sluser, KOKO the Salon, Edmonton Caffery VanHorne, Studio Caffery VanHorne, Toronto Jason Williams, Kharactèr Style et Couleur, Montreal, Que.

HAIR EXTENSIONS ARTIST Julie Boyer, Coiffure Mode Effe, Sherrington, Que. Frank Dicintio, Salon Gaboa, Woodbridge, Ont. Duyen Huynh, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Kerri Dawn Jarrett, Salon Reform, Calgary Marie-Ange Marin, Concept Cheveux d’ange, SaintHyacinthe, Que. Jason Mellor, Edges Salon & Spa, Calgary Oluwasola Olorunleke, Quinn’s World Salon, Saskatoon MAKEUP ARTIST Julie Coulombe, Freelance, Bramalea, Ont. Jennifer Dionne, Freelance, Montreal Katie Foster, Studio H, London. Ont. Craig-Ryan French, CRF Makeup, Toronto Maria Li, Freelance, Toronto Vanessa Parto, Artistry by V, Vancouver Gabriela Soares, So Chiq Studio, Waterloo, Ont. Ekaterina Ulyanoff, Freelance, Laval, Que. Caffery VanHorne, Studio Caffery VanHorne, Toronto Nicole Ziegler, Nicole Ziegler Artistry, Milton, Ont. CANADIAN NAIL ARTIST Valérie Ducharme, Studio 2075, Montreal Nargis Khan, Tips Nail Bar, Toronto Olga Khazova, European Standard, Medicine Hat, Alta. Liliya Leheta, Lillynails, Mississauga, Ont. Elfi Lemieux, Panache, Montreal Judy Lim, Polish’d Nail Bar, Toronto Jennifer Mather, Freelance, Grimsby, Ont. Karen A. Milla, New Image Skin & Nails, Kitchener, Ont. Robyn Schwartz, Nails and Esthetics with Robyn, Grand Forks, B.C. Rheanne Thackeray, Vivid Hair & Esthetics, Lloydminster, Alta. NEW HAIRSTYLIST Aubrey Bonnah-Vink, Avant Garde Salon, Vancouver Lenelle Davis, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. Chloe Forster, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Mayumi Grindlay, Felix and Ginger Salon, Caledon, Ont. Shereen Hussein, Deeva, Kitchener, Ont. Connor Lange, Rapunzel’s Hair Design, Stratford, Ont. Cassandra Lounsberry, Zazou Salon & Spa, North Vancouver, B.C. Sarah Mak, Zinc Hair, Vancouver Maggie Melrose, Valentino’s, Whitby, Ont. Vu Nguyen, Lure, Vancouver

salonmagazine.ca

STUDENT/APPRENTICE HAIRSTYLIST Andrea Babic, Kick Hair & Body, Edmonton Lisa Brandow, McKinnon Hair Design, Hamilton, Ont. Olivia Carli, Vodka Salon, Mississauga, Ont. Shelby-Rae Hehay-Pfieffer, KOKO the Salon, Edmonton Bailey Hutchinson, Artists Salon & Spa, Newmarket, Ont. Ji Hyou Kim, Aveda Institute, Toronto Rita Janeiro, Salon 247, Brampton, Ont. Brandi Press, Storm Hair Group, Niagara Falls, Ont. Courtney Sobko, Studio H, London, Ont. Jaelyn Walker, Space Salon, Vancouver ALBERTA HAIRSTYLIST Jenna Bosch, Plush Salon & Spa, Medicine Hat, Alta. Kim Coady, Brio Salon, Lethbridge, Alta. Christina Dominelli, Christina Dominelli Salon, Edmonton Phillip Elliott, Chrome Hair Design, Calgary Rob Gaspar, Blunt Salon, Edmonton Penny Hicken, Purely Inspired Academy, Lethbridge, Alta. Katelyn Ladancguk, Aveda Institute Calgary, Calgary Michelle Oliver, Kick Hair & Body, Edmonton Ricardo Perdigo, Blunt Salon, Edmonton Alann Sluser, KOKO the Salon, Edmonton ATLANTIC HAIRSTYLIST Eden Boudreau, Eden B. Hair, Bedford, N.S. Alison Bradbury, Hair Factory, St. John’s Stephanie Dempsey, FRED.Beauty, Halifax Melissa Duguay, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B. Jennifer Eveleigh, Especially for You, Paradise, N.L. Chelsea Sutherland, Hair Factory, St. John’s Elizabeth Winters, The Hair Force, Mount Pearl, N.L. BRITISH COLUMBIA HAIRSTYLIST Aimee Cox, Caramel, Vancouver Lenelle Davis, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. Alina Friesen, A Michael Levine Salon, Vancouver Martin Hillier, The Lounge Hair Studio, Vancouver Dana Lyseng, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver, B.C. Joan Novak, Jono Hair, Whistler, B.C. Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, B.C. Jacob Rozenberg, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Loretta Tom, Salon Haze, Vancouver Jordon Turner, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver ONTARIO HAIRSTYLIST Julie Carr, Dragonfly Salon and Spa, St. Thomas, Ont. Christine Dellicarpini, Locale J Hair Design, Thornhill, Ont. Erin Fernandes, Maria Bikas Salon, London, Ont. Nicole Lachapelle, Mahogany Salon and Spa, Carleton Place, Ont. Joey Marchese, Bob + Paige Salon, Toronto Stephanie Schewe, Salon College, Toronto Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon and Spa, Oshawa, Ont.

Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Julie Vriesinga, Entrenous, London, Ont.

QUEBEC HAIRSTYLIST Virginy Beauparlant, Industria Coiffure, Saint-Leonard, Que. Antoine Binot-Jolicoeur, Local B, Montreal Eddy Santiago Burgos, Saco, Montreal Simon-Pierre Daoust, PlanèteHair Coiffure, Montreal Sara Drolet, Donald Prouxl, Montreal Dobrinka Kuyumdzhieva, Kaaz, Montreal Stephan Lepard, Saco, Montreal Sophie Tessier, La Rousse Espace Beauté, Montreal Matthew Waldron, Panache, Montreal Jason Williams, Kharactèr Style et Couleur, Montreal SASKATCHEWAN/MANITOBA HAIRSTYLIST Nikki Denatale, Élan Hair & Esthetics, Winnipeg Brittany Francis, Élan Hair & Esthetics, Winnipeg Leah Gress, Chel SalonSpa, Saskatoon Amy Middleton, Salon Pop, Winnipeg Tina Monz, Hairwaves, Saskatoon Chris Pritchard, Daniel Christopher Salon, Regina, Sask. Kimball V. Regier, Chel SalonSpa, Saskatoon Mariecel Tamayo, Élan Hair & Esthetics, Winnipeg Josie Vilayvanh, Élan Hair & Esthetics, Winnipeg Sara Whyte, Alchemy Salon, Saskatoon SALON INTERIOR DESIGN FI Hair The Salon, Thornhill, Ont. Grateful Head, Toronto L.A. Coiffure et Spa, LaSalle, Que. Mahogany Salon and Spa, Carleton Place, Ont. Mosaic Hair Group, Toronto Noir Salon & Spa, Ottawa One 2 One Studio, Toronto Pure Self Salon N Spa, Markham, Ont. Spotlight Hair and Spa, Richmond, Ont. Storm Hair Group, St. Catherines, Ont. JOHN STEINBERG AWARD FOR COMMUNITY SERVICE Amici Spa Inc., Markham, Ont. Artists Salon & Spa, Newmarket, Ont. Guys and Dolls Salon and Spa, Elmira, Ont. Karma Salon and Spa, Calgary Metamorphosis Beauty Group, St. Catherines, Ont. Milica SalonSpa, Langley, B.C. Salon 247, Brampton, Ont. Salon Decorum, Newmarket, Ont. Salon Fortelli and Spa, Toronto Vivid Hair & Esthetics, Lloydminster, Alta. Finalists listed online in October and in the November/December issue.

o c t o b e r. 1 3

salon

GOLD SPONSORS

SILVER SPONSORS

Early-Bird Tickets available September 3: $160

October 8 to 28: $175 October 29 until Gala Night: $200 Call 416-869-3131, ext. 108 SALONMAGAZINE.CA/CONTESSA

Contessa Awards Gala NOVEMBER 10, 2013 Westin Harbour Castle, Toronto

CONTESSA GALLERY

Contessa 24, Finalist, Elite Master Hairstylist of the Year

Anna Pacitto, hairstylist and co-owner of awardwinning Salon Pure in Montreal, has a stack of accolades, including L’Oréal Professionnel art director in Canada. In September, she led the artistic hair direction for Team Canada at Haute Coiffure Française, which is the first time that a North American country has been invited to the elite Parisian competition.

L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL MYTHIC OIL MILK

Applied on wet hair, the milk easily detangles and adds softness. It can also be worked

Anna Pacitto black with a type of transparency that gives

these words describe the finished

off colourful shine.”

look in Pacitto’s hair collection, which

Colour Expert

demonstrates that something beautiful can

“I have to credit my colourist, Martin Alarie,

shine and frizz protection.

Petrol Palette

wet in shine but not in texture,” says Pacitto.

“I had in mind the effect of what you see

The natural hair and hair extensions were

imparts high shine and

when looking at gasoline on the ground of

carefully coloured by strand and layer, with

nourishes all hair types,

a gas station,” she explains. “It has hues

lightening customized to the base hue, so as

without weighing it down.

of deep purple, deep green, and it’s almost

to not compromise hair health and integrity.

be drawn from something as common as a gasoline puddle.

I described it: a metallic finish that is almost

hues of “ Itdeephaspurple,

deep green... with a type of transparency that gives off colourful shine.

”

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

who knew exactly what I was looking for as

L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL MYTHIC OIL

This classic oil treatment

L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL TECNI.ART CRYSTAL GLOSS A finishing styler that Anna used all over the tops of hair for a final non-greasy, brilliant shine.

TOP PHOTO: HAIR: ANNA PACITTO, SALON PURE, MONTREAL, MAKEUP: SEVAN TATOULIAN, PHOTO: ARA SASSOONIAN. INSPIRATION PHOTO:THINKSTOCK, PRODUCT PHOTOS: L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

Iridescent. Radiant. Luminous. All of

through dry hair for utmost

salonmagazine.ca

NEW from Colour Gloss Available in 15 mL. ℮ 0.5 Fl.

SINFUL

LOYAL PROFESSIONAL FORMULAS | PROFESSIONAL RESULTS TM

DESIRED

ENVIED

More to See!

QRCODE Error Correction Level: Low

http://www.artisticnaildesign.com Description:

QRCODE Error Correction Level: Medium Low

Model is wearing Artistic Colour Gloss in Desired, Dashing and Controlling with Provoc Copper Foil.

QRCODE Error Correction Level: Medium High

HM-2699

salon profile

Trial By Fire

A long-time client goes from sitting in the chair to running the salon. Here’s what you can learn from an outsider’s perspective. By Melissa Hill

eoff Lumber grew up in the Loren Park area of Mississauga, Ont., attending high school right around the corner from Lorenzo Salon and

Spa. Before long, he became a client, seeing the owner, Lorenzo Morra, for trims. “We worked for years at Revlon Cosmetics [first in finance, then in logistics], so I was immersed in the beauty industry. Over time, we talked about how he wanted to transition his life away from working so hard and having the responsibility for a very busy salon.” Around 2008, those conversations took a new twist after a phone call with Morra. What started as a question of knowing anyone who would be interested in managing the salon, became a question of whether Lumber might actually be interested in owning the salon. “It was something I had never contemplated before,” he says. “Once I got my head around it, I got very excited.” Two years later, when the deal was finalized in November 2010, Lumber had been a client for nearly 20 years. “I joke that I was going

at Wella Professionals Geoff Lumber (second from left) New York City. in n Visio Trend International

Salon Magazine: What do you bring to the salon?

training. Engaging a partner like Wella has

Geoff Lumber: “I think the biggest advantage

been invaluable. [The salon became Wella

is my business experience. I think that it was

Professionals exclusive when Lumber took

very strategic of Lorenzo to bring in someone

over.] They can bring that educational aspect

who doesn’t cut hair to run the salon. Someone

to the staff. It was one of the first changes I

who was a hairstylist with lots of experience

made. But, I can mentor and coach a lot about

might have been tempted to come in and make

building your business and serving your clients.

a lot of change without seeing the strengths of

There’s always a good side and a bad side. I

the business. I might have just taken what was

have a heart for customer service and there’s a

working for me at another salon and tried to

right and wrong way to do things.”

apply it. I came in, learned as much as I could and talked to as many people as I could. The salon has been here for more than 40 years. [I had to respect] what has made it successful for so long.”

SM: What is your relationship like with Lorenzo? GL: “We’re incredibly respectful of each other. He sometimes comes to me and says he has a few ideas, but says that, ultimately, it’s my call.

there for so long that finally they just sold the

SM: Any challenges in not being a typical

I really value his many years of experience. His

place to me!” he says. Meanwhile, Morra

owner?

life’s work, he’s entrusted to me. He’s forgotten

continues to work in the salon, cutting hair just

GL: “The biggest challenge, with me not

more than I know; I’d be crazy not to leverage

a couple of days a week.

being a hairstylist, is technical mentoring and

that wealth of information.”

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

photo courtesy Geoff Lumber

always had a nice connection,” says Lumber. “I

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

salon business

8 Ways to Make the Most of Your Client Database Business gurus Neil Ducoff, Strategies founder and CEO, and Adrienne Hiles, L’Oréal Professionnel and Matrix Canada marketing specialist, share how to turn your database into a business success tool. 1. Stagger holiday promotions.

and for what service. Try to time your next

Offer early-bird holiday gift cards, services

communication to them in a way that

and advanced bookings for a preferred

reminds them to come back to you for

client list, and stagger limited-time offers at

that root touch-up or haircut—the goal is

different points during the holiday season,

to remind clients you are still there, instead

such as early November, late November,

of showing up too often in their inboxes.

Utilize the security features of your

If an appointment slot opens up, give

software by setting up security levels

the first opportunity to fill it to your best

that give access to confidential, sensitive

clients by sending them a quick email or

information only to owners and managers,

text message, which you’ll have stored

and everyday access to client and business

in the database.

operations for staff members.

3. Protect your reputation.

7. Keep your message consistent

When a client complains, follow up by

across social media platforms.

documenting all of your efforts to resolve

Is your salon running a contest on

the conflict, such as the time and date

Facebook? Great! Use your Facebook

a staff member attempted to contact

page as the main hub of information and

the client, and what was discussed.

updates, not only for Facebook fans but

Documentation could help protect your

also for clients in your database. Linking

business from unfounded accusations

to the same website whenever your salon

and demonstrate the initiative to make

mentions it on other platforms, like email

things right.

and Twitter, simplifies the communication.

4. Retain first-time clients. On average, 30 to 35 per cent of salons retain first-time clients within 90 days of their visit. To increase this rate, run retention reports through your database and salon software. Owners can also incorporate the assessment in staff performance reviews, in order to measure and improve on areas of growth for each

“Your salon’s database is your single biggest asset.” —Neil Ducoff 88

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

6. Protect your database.

2. Offer last-minute appointments.

team member.

8. Make use of the database. We know it’s tedious to type in details about retail sales or client profiles, but this information is indispensible, once utilized. For example, by tracking when your clients come in at each appointment, you can find out how often they return and consider why first-time clients have not returned—not to mention, you have their contact information to remind them you’re still open for their business. Or, by

5. Make your clients miss you.

tracking retail purchases, you can easily

Rather than overwhelming your clients

identify your bestsellers for each season,

with frequent emails and alerts, think

leading to an informed inventory decision

about when they last came into the salon

for the next quarter.

text:valerie lam, photo:thinkstock

and the first weeks of December.

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

SALON PROFESSIONALS

HELPING WOMEN FACE CANCER HEAD ON Your gift of $10 will provide a CHEMO CAP for a woman with cancer. For more information on how you and your salon can help, call 1 800 914 5665 or visit lookgoodfeelbetter.ca

AGNES, CANCER SURVIVOR

“While I was going through my cancer treatment, I was determined to face cancer head on. And thanks to Look Good Feel Better I got the help I needed.” At a free, two-hour Look Good Feel Better workshop, Agnes received a complimentary kit of cosmetic products and a chemo cap. She learned simple makeup techniques to even out her skin tone and recreate the look of lost eyebrows and lashes. A hair alternatives specialist showed Agnes how to have fun with scarves and hats, empowering her to face cancer with conﬁdence. 1 800 914 5665 | lookgoodfeelbetter.ca Also ﬁnd us on

LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER AND FACING CANCER TOGETHER ARE PROGRAMS OF THE CANADIAN COSMETIC, TOILETRY AND FRAGRANCE ASSOCIATION FOUNDATION | REG CHARITY #13374 0316 RR0001

saloN interiors

Primarily used as an academy, Studio Mekka-Schwarzkopf Professional is open one day a week for regular clients.

or ck wall, wood flo The exposed bri ace the sp the e giv s and large window e studio. feeling of a danc

Details â&#x20AC;˘ The furnishings were sourced from a combination of retail stores and specialty salon distributors such as Belvedere, Dannyco and Chalut, a Quebec distributor. â&#x20AC;˘ The studio is 1,500 sq.ft. in total and the working classroom is 850 sq.ft. Website mekkasystem.com/studio-en The Brand Schwarzkopf Professional

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

Photos: Nicolas simo

Classes are small and intimate, with the goal to accomodate a maximum of eight people at a time.

A heritage building in the trendy Plateau Mont-Royal nei ghbourhood in Montreal welcomes a new academy.

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

The studio was designed by Kath y Simon, who had been thinking about the concept for many years.

Building Blocks Montreal welcomes Studio Mekka-Schwarzkopf Professional, a new academy dedicated to a premium curriculum. By Yasmin Grothé

he brainchild of Kathy Simon, the North American Essential Looks artistic director

act as a The academy will also new ideas and workshop to develop on programs. concepts for the educati

for Schwarzkopf Professional, as well as the founder of Mekka System of Education, Studio Mekka-Schwarzkopf Professional is nestled in a heritage building in the trendy

Plateau Mont-Royal area of Montreal. “We chose this location because it’s in a creative, stylish area of the city,” says Simon, who has been active in the hair industry for more than 26 years. “The goal is to have a maximum of eight students at a time, and that’s why we wanted a smaller, more intimate setting.” Having had the chance to visit many European Schwarzkopf academies, Simon was impressed by the use of space in such small footprints. She also wanted to give it a working artists’ studio feel, but for hair. Studio Mekka-Schwarzkopf Professional will be used primarily as an educational studio but will also act as a creative development workshop for Simon and her team to work on and develop new ideas and concepts for their education programs or just to sharpen their skills. However, it will also accommodate a salon clientele one day a week. A smart move to amortize rental costs and give the academy visibility to the consumer market.

salonmagazine.ca

o c t o b e r. 1 3

salon

salon events

Short2Long Hair Extensions...

You're inches away from amazing

Hairstylists Unite at International Farouk Systems Conference Details: More than 4,000 stylists, educators and industry icons arrived at the Moon Palace Golf and Spa Resort for Join the Revolution, a sold-out conference with interactive workshops and international trend presentations in avant-garde styling, which included Rocky Vitelli and Lori Walters from Team Canada and 12 other country teams. When & Where: August 23 - 26 in Cancun, Mexico. Highlights: Bill and Giuliana Rancic and Farouk Shami inspired the audience onstage, along with an amazing pyrotechnic act by the Phoenix Group and Australian hip-hop talent, Timomatic. PhoToS CouRTeSy oF FARouk SySTeMS

Short2Long is not your average hair extensions company. We provide: 2 Methods of Reusable Hair Extensions (Tape In and I-Tip Cylinder Extensions) Hands on 1 Day Education from Experts Product expertly produced in USA High quality full cuticle hair extensions

The World Class Leader in Luxury Hair Extensions

www.short2long.com 92

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

Photo courtesy Pureology

INTERNATIONAL

BEAuTy SERvIcES

Giving Salons The Best in Education & Service ALBERTA 11348 - 142 St. Edmonton 780-454-3388

MANITOBA SASKATCHEWAN 2623A Faithfull Ave. 1644 St James St. Winnipeg Saskatoon 204-783-8878 306-343-3398

11 Stores to Serve You Order Desk

1-800-642-3818

Alterna • Babe • BangStyle • Bioelements DS Laboratories • Dannyco • Ego • Kasho Kevin Murphy • Lakmé • Logics L’Oréal Professionnel • Matrix • One Styling • OPI PureOlogy • Tressa • SpaRitual salonmagazine.ca

o c t o b e r. 1 3

salon

salon events

Industry Stars Rock at Paul Mitchellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s The Gathering Details: The annual Paul Mitchell education event, The Gathering, brought together more than 3,500 salon professionals for a two-day event featuring business education and creative inspiration. The Gathering was also livestreamed. When & Where: August 12 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 13 in Las Vegas. Highlight: Energetic blues-rock blasted through the room, courtesy of LAbased band Vintage Trouble and kept the energy high on opening night. PhoTos courTEsy of PAuL MiTchELL

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

Advertiser Index Advertiser + pAge American Crew d:fi pg 14-15

toll free 800-387-7980

Artistic Nail Design Color Gloss pg 85

website www.americancrew.com www.artisticnaildesign.com

Bosley Volume pg 87

800-267-5391

www.bosleypro.com

CND Shellac & Vinylux pg 6-7

800-387-7980

www.cnd.com

Contessa 25 pg 82-83

800-720-6665

www.salonmagazine.ca

Cuccio Naturalé DetoxSoak pg 79

800-762-6245

www.starnail.com

Elevate Beauty Finder pg 96

800-720-6665

www.elevatemagazine.com

Essie pg 10-11

877-309-8619

Gelish Soak off Gel Polish pg 35

www.essie.com www.gelish.com

Great Lengths GL Apps pg 37

800-268-2242

www.greatlengthscanada.com

Green Circle Salons pg 97

877-424-3327

www.greencirclesalons.ca

Hot Tools EZ Curls pg 101

800-487-8432

www.hottools.com/multicurl

International Beauty Services pg 93

800-642-3818

www.internationalbeauty.ca

Joico Vero K-PAK pg 21

877-426-2590

www.joico.com

Joico Vero K-Pak Color Intensity pg 102

877-426-2590

www.joico.com

Kevin.Murphy Shimmer.Shine pg 39

800-387-2962

www.kevinmurphy.com.au

LCN Canada pg 41

888-859-3434

www.lcn.ca/whylcn

Lisap pg 99

800-667-5954

www.lisap.ca

to Salon Magazine o 1 year subscription (8 issues) to anywhere in Canada $40.00 (gst included) o Save $60.00 with 3 copies of every issue for you and your colleagues. 1 year subscription (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 (canadian orders only, must be to same location. gst included) o 1 year U.S. subscription (8 issues) $50.00 USD o Please note my change of address and/ or details below for my Salon Magazine subscription.

_____________________________ ________________________________

Signature Date

sign and date to confirm you want to receive a subscription to salon magazine *salon owners must complete section b

o i’ve enclosed a cheque payable to: Salon Communications inc. Bill my o ViSa Card o amex Card ______________________________________________ card number

______________________________________________ expiry date

______________________________________________ cardholder’s name o Mr. o Ms. Given Name(s) ____________________________________ Surname _______________________________________ Title __________________________________________ Business Name ___________________________________ Address ___________________________Suite _________ City _____________________ Prov____ PC ______________ Phone _________________________________________

Malibu C Color Prepare pg 25

800-622-7332

www.malibuc.com

Matrix Biolage Styling pg 2-3

888-935-1885

www.matrixcanada.ca

Website _______________________________________

Mixed Chicks pg 94

877-888-0480

www.mixedchicks.net

o Please email the weekly salonmagazine.ca newsletter o Please send me periodic offers from related companies

OPI San Francisco Collection pg 17

800-341-9999

www.opi.com

Oster Professional Model One pg 28

www.osterstyle.com

Redken Diamond Oil pg 12-13

866-973-3536

www.redken.ca

Rusk Deepshine pg 23

800-726-6247

www.rusk1.com

Schwarzkopf Igora Royal pg 4-5

800-463-3081

www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca

Scruples Crème Colour pg 27

800-457-0016

www.scrupleshaircare.com

Short2Long pg 92

877-670-3021

www.short2long.com

SOMA Hair Technology pg 22

866-843-2257

www.somaorganics.com

SpaRitual Share Fall Collection pg 43

877-SPA-RITUAL

www.sparitual.com

Tangle Teezer pg 96

888-735-4247

www.otcsupply.com

TIGI Catwalk pg 8-9

800-259-8596

www.catwalkbytigi.com

Uniq One pg 31 & 33

800-387-7980

www.uniq-one.com

Wella Oil Reflections pg 18-19

800-41-WELLA

www.wellausa.com

salonmagazine.ca

Email__________________________________________

section b How would you classify this location? o Salon o Spa o School o manufacturer o Distributor o franchise o Home Based o freelance o one of multiple locations with the same owner o other (specify) ______________________ # of employees ________________________ What services are provided? o Hair Care o Skin Care o nail Care o Hair removal o Spa Treatments o Tanning o other (specify) What do you do? o Co-owner o owner o manager o Hairstylist o nail Technician o electrologist o Colourist o esthetician o laser Technician o other (specify) ______________________ ___________________________________ fax form To: (905) 729-4432

se223

mail form To:Salon Magazine Po Box 357, BeeTon, on l0G 1a0 or subscribe online at salonmagazine.ca o c t o b e r. 1 3

salon

SALON EVENTS

Annual Scruples Symposium Inspires Stylists Details: The two-day education and fashion show hosted by Scruples brought veterans and new educators together for runway-inspired segments, including hands-on workshops with INDIE and Scruples' Master Design Teams, Charlie Price and Katie Nielsen.

Distribution Opportunities Available info@otcsupply.com Available at OTC Supply 1-888-735-4247

When & Where: August 4 – 5 in Minneapolis. Highlight: Stylists got a sneak-peak at the upcoming Pearlscriptives line, which launches January 1, 2014. PHOTOS COURTESY OF SCRUPLES

looking for a doCtor?

seArCh the BeAuty FinDer At ElEvatEmagazinE.com!

THE

BEAUTY

FINDER FIND DOCTORS AND PROFESSIONAL SKINCARE PRODUCTS ACROSS CANADA!

SEARCH NOW! Browse our proFessionAl DireCtory For DoCtors AnD high-enD skinCAre proDuCts ACross CAnADA! Are you a Doctor in Canada? Do you want to be a part of ElEvatE’s Beauty Finder? Contact Megan at megan@elevatemagazine.com

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

facebook.com/ElevateMagazine twitter.com/elevatemagazine elevatemagazine.com salonmagazine.ca

Phillip Wilson Captivates Audience at VIP Soiree Details: ColorProof Evolved Color Care international creative director Phillip Wilson inspired a swanky crowd of stylists with dynamic, on-stage demonstrations using the colour retention product line. When & Where: August 25 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 27 at Venus Academy in Mississauga, Ont. Highlight: Wilson followed with two days of hands-on workshops at the new Venus Academy, with a focus on perfecting a memorable haircut. PhOtOs: sAlOn MAgAzinE stAff

salonmagazine.ca

o c t o b e r. 1 3

salon

MARKETPLACE

YOUR GUIDE TO PRODUCTS AND SERVICES FOR PROFESSIONAL SALONS

Tooth Crystal Starter Kits Tooth Crystal Home Kits Tooth Whitening Body Gems Hair Gems

Tooth Crystal Starter Kits as low as $230

Crystal T-Shirt Transfers Pretty Pedi Socks

Order Online Now: www.toothfairy.ch Tooth Fairy Customer Hotline: 1-888-346-6601 Email: info@toothfairy.ch

Subscribe to Salon

NOW FRANCHISING!

Ce 20leb Ye rat ar ing s!

Canada L0G 1A0 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont.,

1-877-266-2066 www.mvpmenssalon.com

Best PraCtiCes for Building your Colour Biz

Publications Mail Agreement No.

Urban Decor Turnkey Operation Low Start Up Costs Growing Niche Market

BRANCH OUT

better blondes

Exploring new lighteners

Colour Contrasts spotligh

t on... Correction tips... Better ways to market to your clients... Becoming Plus, great new colour collections. a salon owner...

october 13 $5 salonmagazi ne.ca

se.o.13.cover.3-0.indd 3 2013-08-29 4:33 PM

To subscribe or renew your subscription go to SalonMagazine.ca

Change of address? Update your subscription to Salon Magazine SalonMagazine.ca 98

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

Help Plant Our Urban Forests

SALON MAGAZINE English edition, USPS 015-615 is published monthly, except for February, June, August and December by SALON COMMUNICATIONS INC. 365 Bloor Street East, Suite 1902, Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3L4, Canada. US office of publication: 2221 Niagara Falls Blvd, Niagara Falls, NY 14304-5709. Periodicals Postage Paid at Niagara Falls, NY, US postmaster: Send address changes to Salon Magazine, PO Box 1068, Niagara Falls, NY 14304. ISSN 1489-7059 Volume 22 Issue 13 salonmagazine.ca

salon events OCTOBER 2013 GOLDWELL COLORZOOM October 5 - 8 Los Angeles Info: colorzoom13.com CALGARY ABA October 6 - 7 Calgary Stampede Park Calgary Info: abacanada.com PREMIERE BEAUTY CLASSIC October 6 - 7 Greater Columbus Convention Center Columbus, Ohio Info: beautyclassicshow.biz SALON INTERNATIONAL October 12 - 14 ExCeL London London, U.K. Info: salonexhibitions.co.uk ALTERNATIVE HAIR SHOW October 13 Royal Albert Hall London, U.K. Info: alternativehair.org AVEDA CONGRESS October 19 - 21 Minneapolis Convention Center Minneapolis Info: avedacongress13.com DARE TO COMPETE: HALIFAX October 20 Concepts Career College Halifax Info: abacanada.com CANADIAN ESTHETIC PROFESSIONAL CONFERENCE October 20 - 21 The International Centre Mississauga, Ont. Info: estheticconference.com PREMIERE BIRMINGHAM October 20 - 21 Birmingham Jefferson Convention Center Birmingham, Ala. Info: premierebirminghamshow.biz DARE TO COMPETE: SASKATOON October 27 MC College Saskatoon Info: abacanada.com

salonmagazine.ca

HAIR CLASSES AVEDA EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.689.1066 x7892 CHI EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 888.251.8466 GLOBAL BEST BEAUTY EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 866.468.2205 or 416.636.1988 GOLDWELL EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 877.670.6767 GREAT LENGTHS EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: greatlengthscanada.com KMS EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 877.670.6767 L’ORéAL PROFESSIONNEL EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.361.1861 MATRIX EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 888.422.6879 REDKEN EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 866.9.REDKEN SKP EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 905.625.7200 or contact local SKP distributor TIGI EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.259.8596 URBAN BEAUTY SYSTEMS Euronatural Hair Extensions Info: 866.731.4327

NAIL AND ESTHETICS CLASSES AVEDA EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.689.1066 x7892 CALGEL CANADA Info: calgelcanada.ca or 514.747.7622 CND EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: contact local CND distributor LCN EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: lcn.ca or 800.557.3223 STAR NAIL EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.661.9997

o c t o b e r. 1 3

salon

salon last look

Get ready for autumn’s new colour requests.

I like changing my hair colour and sometimes it’s not for a role. Usually, I just do it for me.

”

—Rachel McAdams

is this the end of redheads? Not so fast! According to a Yahoo Health! story, although a few years ago there were news reports claiming that by 2060 redheads would be extinct, this isn’t exactly the case. The reports were based on the notion that recessive genes—like for red hair— eventually die out. Even if all redheads stopped having kids, there’s no shortage of non-redheads who carry the genes to pass on the trait. A study done in the UK found that 40 per cent of Brits carry recessive genes for red hair. The world’s highest number of redheads is found in Scotland, where an estimated 13 per cent of Scots—about 650,000 people—have flame-colored tresses, compared to four per cent of Europeans and less than two percent of the global population, according to STV News. Via Yahoo! Health at health.yahoo.net

100

s a l o n o c t o b e r. 1 3

5 Facts about blondes

1 2 3 4 5

On average, blOndes take lOnger tO get ready. A study conducted in 2009 (with over 3,000 participants) found that blondes take six minutes longer—a total of 72 minutes a day— to get ready, than their darker-haired counterparts. natural blOndes have mOre hair than natural brunettes. Natural blondes have approximately 120,000-147,000 hairs, while brunettes have 100,000-120,000. a man’s preference in a wOman’s hair cOlOur stems frOm his Own hair cOlOur— and life experience. An interesting review noted research that brunette men preferred brunette women and blonde men equally preferred blondes and brunettes. Meanwhile, blonde, brunette, and red-headed women all preferred dark-haired men. blOnde waitresses earn better tips. In a survey of 482 waitresses conducted by Cornell University, blondes earned significantly higher tips than their brunette counterparts. when wOmen dye their hair lighter, they feel mOre fun. When women dye their hair lighter, they have been proven to go out more (three nights per week for blondes versus two for brunettes) and to feel more confident and youthful.

Via cosmeticsocialmedia.com

Photo: ImageColleCt

“

Season of Change

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

slide hair betweenplates

rotate iron continuously

step

ABSOLUTELY FABULOUS CURLS IN SECONDS

hair slides through plates & around barrel

creates quick, easy curls

REVOLUTIONARy NEW PRODUCT

fOR fAsT, EZ CURLs!

HTC1000CN

Quick EZ Curls

1" INSTA-CURL EZ STYLER Unique Split Barrel Makes Quick, Easy Curls.

www.hottools.com/MULTICURL

WATCH THIs HOW-TO VIDEO fOR qUICk, EAsy CURLs

INSTA-CURL EZ STYLER

www.HotTools.com

NEW! COBALT BLUE

NEW! PEACOCK GREEN

8 INTERMIXABLE SEMI-PERMANENT SHADES EXCEPTIONALLY VIBRANT RESULTS NO DEVELOPER REQUIRED 20 MINUTES TO WOW