Salon Magazine, October 2007

Page 1

l salon l MAGAZINE

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 365 Bloor St. E., Ste. 1902 Toronto, Ont., Canada M4W 3L4

THE BUSINESS OF BEAUTY AND STYLE

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l salon MAGAZINE

Contents OCTOBER 07 W W W. S A LO N 5 2 . CA

ON THE COVER Hair: Jason and India at Charlie Miller, Edinburgh, Scotland Makeup: Yasmin Heinz Wardrobe: Damian Foxe

ON THE COVER 44

Photography: Felix Lammers Technique: Graduated bob with curved layers and asymmetric fringe. Random curlsironed sections were created and sectioned with clay for multi-texture.

DEBATING THE COLOURIST/CUTTER CONUNDRUM FEATURE He Said, She Said

70

CONTESSA 19 SEMI-FINALISTS

FEATURES 47

MODERN LIFE IN COLOUR

50

HOLIDAY SURVIVAL GUIDE

52

COLOUR COUTURE

54

NEW KIDS ON THE BLOCK

56

COLOUR PHOTOGRAPHY

58

SCOTTISH GLAMOUR

60

FULL SPEED AHEAD

Schwarzkopf Professional releases Essential Looks for fall 2007

Make the most of this profitable season with the tools at your disposal

Farouk Systems releases Ode to Couture for fall/winter 2007

47

MODERN LIFE IN COLOUR

A look at three new Canadian professional beauty companies

Salon Pure takes home its second NAHA

Charlie Miller salon releases its 2007 collection

Dennis Bernard Inc. puts a foot on the accelerator

> CONTENTS CONTINUE ON PAGE 10

56

COLOUR PHOTOGRAPHY

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Make Damaged Ends Meet Now a trim isn’t the only solution stylists can offer clients with split ends. Introducing K-PAK Split End Mender.

“Split End Mender is a major advancement in hair repair,” says Anthony Morrison, winner of BRAVO’s Shear Genius, and Joico Artistic Team member. “It fuses split ends together with a strong bond that really lasts, and it also prevents new split ends from forming by strengthening and protecting delicate ends like only K-PAK technology can.”

K-PAK Split End Mender features: • An exclusive dual-polymer technology that deeply penetrates porous hair ends to create an ultra durable bond • A combination of K-PAK technologies—Quadramine Complex®, Keratin Silicone Complex and Hair Protection System— ensures maximum protection and reconstruction from the cuticle to the cortex, locks in moisture, seals the cuticle, and delivers smoothness to the hair

© 2007 Piidea Canada Ltd., Pointe Claire, QC JOICO.COM

HAIR Damien Carney COLOR Sue Pemberton PHOTO Hama Sanders

New!

JOICO.COM


l salon MAGAZINE

REGULARS 12

EDITOR’S LETTER

14

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

16

HAIRLINES TIGI Colour hits salons p.16; Victoria Beckham’s hot hairstyle p.18; Tool of the month p.18; The Contessas become a charged affair p.20; Hairdressers Unlocking Hope galvanizes alvanizes the industry into action p.20; Bain De Terre gets revitalized al p.22; L’Anza introduces a new colour line p.24; Matrix introduces the Chocolate Cherry Collection p.26

28

MEN FIX MEN by Quantum tackles the men’s market; Reviewing The Future of Men

30

TRENDS

36

SCENE Fashion Cares 2007

40

CONTESSA GALLERY Judy MacDonald’s Contessa 18 collection

62

ESTHETICS NexGen’s latest hair removal machine

64

TANNING Quebec’s Salon Evasion

66

NAILS Creative Nail Design is now CND; China Glaze celbrates its tenth

73

PROFILE Winnipeg’s Kelly Hunter

76

INTERIORS FRED. salon in Halifax

80

HOT PRODUCTS

84

EVENTS

86

SCOOP

88

SALON52 - October lineup

89

PRESS PASS

98

SCENE

anniversary p.68

LAST WORD by John Steinberg

36 76 INTERIORS

80

HOT PRODUCTS

16 HAIRLINES

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EDITOR’S LETTER

COLOURFUL BATTLES

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n every workplace there are battles over creative differences and opinions. That is a fact of the working world. In most cases, it’s good to have discussions and debate the pros and cons of one vision over another. But sometimes these can run amuck and cause divisions and havoc. In this industry, an issue that can and does cause problems is the departmentalized salon. I have had discussions with hairstylists and salon owners about departmentalizing. There are lots of stories about people who love to do both cut and colour being forced to make a choice or leave. And I’ve also heard stories about colourists holding the cutters for ransom because they feel their vision is best for the client, and vice versa. It wasn’t until someone said that “pure” colourists are “bloody dinosaurs,” end quote, that I realized how hot the topic was for people. I wasn’t sure how to respond to that comment until I was riding the Tube (subway) with John Steinberg in London last year during Salon International. At the end of a very long day at the show, we were trying to catch the Alternative Hair Show. The subway car was pretty full when I began making conversation with John and asked his opinion on the issue. As he started to talk, a woman—a salon owner from somewhere outside London—piped up and yelled, “They’re all bloody dinosaurs!” I was stunned and looked at John and said, “I guess this is a big one.” At that moment, I decided maybe we should have a debate about this in Salon Magazine. We don’t have room for every opinion here, so in this issue we got two people with differing views to give us their thoughts. Their story is on page 44. But the real debate will be this month on www. salon52.ca, when we post the story and you get to throw your opinion into the ring. After that incident on my trip to London and other trips in the past year, I look forward to hearing more arguments and discussions. Tell us what you really think. I love a colourful battle.

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Stephen Puddister Editor-in-Chief

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PHOTO BABAK

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE ISSN 1197-1495 volume 16 issue 13

www. s a lo n 5 2 . ca

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Stephen Puddister > 416.869.3131 ext. 120 | stephen@beautynet.com ART DIRECTOR

Gillian Tsintziras > 416.869.3131 ext.106 | gillian@beautynet.com ASSOCIATE EDITOR

HAVE THEM WANTING MORE

CONTRIBUTING EDITOR/MANAGING EDITOR (FRENCH) Tina Christopoulos > 514.341.0621 | tina@beautynet.com COPY EDITOR

Francie Wyland SENIOR STAFF WRITER

Pam Fulford

EDITORIAL INTERNS

Christina Caicedo ART ASSISTANT / PRODUCTION DESIGNER

Guillermo Ohno > 416.869.3131 ext.113 | guillermo@beautynet.com

ver the last year, I’ve treated myself not once, but twice, to a fabulous spa package at Ste. Anne’s Spa in Grafton,

Ontario. I loved the experience so much the first time, I went back again five months later. Being in the biz, I wasn’t sure what I liked more—the services or the customer service. There is a difference between the two. However, it’s much like yin and yang philosophy; you need both for good balance. These days it’s a given how important a service is. Whether it’s a pedicure, massage or a haircut, today’s savvy consumer is well versed in what makes a good service. It’s the overall customer service that takes it to the next level. Have you ever gone to a restaurant and got good, snappy service but mediocre food? Or, on the other hand, had pretty good food but the server or hostess was inattentive? Either way, it didn’t work, and the experience was forgettable. While lunching recently with Inge Hatheway from LCN, we discussed the art of great service. I loved her comment that the only way to understand great service is to experience it yourself. Whether you dine at a fine restaurant, shop in one of the best stores or have an upscale spa service—more than likely you’ll love the experience and how special it makes you feel. Take the time to go to some fabulous places in your city or town. (The best places are not always in a major city.) Watch closely for those special little things the server does, like how they answer the phone, how they greet you when you walk in, how you are escorted to your seat. You’ll come up with lots of clever ideas. Make a short list and share it with your staff. Try out a few new things, maybe one per department, so you don’t overload the team with changes. With the holiday rush of clients pouring in through your doors very shortly, there’s no better time to implement a few of these new touches. Your clients will be more than impressed; the changes will leave them wanting to come back for more!

Laura Dunphy Publisher

CONTRIBUTORS

Malumir R. Beavis, Kim Hughes, Chantel Simmons, John Steinberg, Chris Tsintziras, Colette Wright SENIOR VICE-PRESIDENT/PUBLISHER

Laura Dunphy > 416.869.3131 ext. 110 | laura@beautynet.com SENIOR ACCOUNTS MANAGER

Samantha Anobile > 416.869.3131 ext. 109 | samantha@beautynet.com PRODUCTION MANAGER

Alan Swinton > 416.869.3131 ext. 111 | production@beautynet.com ASSISTANT TO THE PUBLISHER

Cindy Mahabir > 416.869.3131 ext. 119 | cindy@beautynet.com ACCOUNT REPRESENTATIVE

Brandon Stout > 416.869.3131 ext.220 | brandon@beautynet.com CIRCULATION MANAGER

Target Audience Management Inc. T. 905.729.2727 | F. 905.729.0227 salon@tamicirc.ca ACCOUNTANT

Galina Andrianova > 416.869.3131 ext. 114 | galina@beautynet.com PRESIDENT

Brian Light > 416.869.3131 ext. 104 | brian@beautynet.com VICE-PRESIDENT & WEST COAST EDITOR

Greg Robins > 604.929.1700 | greg@beautynet.com SUBSCRIPTION RATES FOR CANADA 1 year (8 issues) $40.00 GST included 1 year (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 GST included. Canadian orders only, must be to same location FOR US 1 year (8 issues) $50USD ADDRE SS CH AN GE S Email: salon @ tamicirc.ca

Fax: 905.729.4432 or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services

Phone: 905.729.1288

PO Box 357, Beeton ON, L0G 1A0 Canada SAL ON MAGAZ IN E

365 Bloor St. E. Suite 1902 Toronto, ON M4W 3L4 T. 416.869.3131 | F. 416.869.3008 HAIR BILL ROWLEY PHOTO BABAK

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Morella Aguirre > 416.869.3131 ext.105 | morella@beautynet.com

641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada Ltd.)

Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, PO Box 357, Beeton ON L0G 1A0 Canada

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This magazine is recyclable. Please recycle where facilites exist.

The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

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From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail salon@tamicirc.ca. Our privacy officer is Brian Gillett at 905.729.1288.

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HAIRLINES

The Making of Colour

It’s been three years in the making. Finally, TIGI Colour hits salons.

Breakdown:

Technology:

Five colour categories make up the TIGI colour line.

The line’s formula extends wearability, improves conditioning and creates a pleasurable experience for the client with three features.

1. 2. 3.

4. 5.

16

TIGI Colour Creative. Providing complete grey coverage, this 36shade permanent gel-crème colour collection is true to tone and offers luminescent shine. TIGI Colour Radiant Gloss. Composed of 16 shades and one clear gloss, Radiant Gloss is TIGI Colour’s ammonia-free semi/demi collection. TIGI Colour Ultra Lift. Seven high lift shades providing lifting and deposit for warm and cool blondes and brunettes. Delivers up to four and a half levels of lift with all the benefits of Pdot technology. TIGI Colour Mix Master. A pure pigment collection of seven shades that can be intermixed with the entire TIGI Colour range. TIGI Colour True Light. Fast-acting, zero-dust lightener with a subtle blue-violet tint to neutralize unwanted brassy tones.

salon > october 07

1. 2. 3.

Pdot Penetration Delayed Oxidation Technology Technology. Ensures colour begins to oxidize only after it has penetrated the hair shaft. This delayed oxidation results in long-lasting, uniform and vibrant colour. TIGI Complex. Improves hair’s condition, protects the scalp and offers maximum shine. Key ingredients include chamomile, amino acids and sugar crystals. TIGI Aroma. A new allergen-free fragrance that masks the smell of ammonia while providing aroma-therapeutic benefits.—MA

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MODEL PHOTOS MICHAEL BANASIAK PRODUCT PHOTOS COURTESY TIGI

The final product has been in the hands of a privileged few for several months. Now the new TIGI Colour line is out for the world to experience. Here are the line’s key features.


NEW!

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scalpthérapie Normal to oily hair has unique scalp needs. NEW Scalpthérapie blends a refreshing Kola Nut + Mint Complex with ingredients that work to help control oil without overdrying. Now, hair looks and feels healthier, more manageable.

NO 1 IN CANADIAN SALONS


HAIRLINES

L.A. Beckons

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KEYSTONE PRESS AGENCY

ack in the day, David was the one with the good hair. But today’s a whole different story, with Victoria Beckham’s blonde chin-length crop arguably the most talked about hairstyle of the year. Choosing to go lighter for her high-profile relocation to sunny Los Angeles, Mrs. Beckham’s golden chopped locks represent one of the few short cuts on the Hollywood scene, making this recently reunited Spice Girl an official hair ambassador and fashion provocateur—just like her handsome hubby. In the long run, however, our money’s on David. We’re sure he’ll reclaim his spot in hair limelight soon enough.—MA

Retailing Tip

Merchandising is both for tactical selling and image-building. Incorporate both these factors in the six key areas of your salon for total success: reception, stylist stations, special display area, front window, back bar and retail area. Manufacturers and distributors can supply you with many tools to enhance your merchandising needs. Just ask.

TOOL TIME

NAME Wahl Zebra/White Series Dryer FEATURES > 1,750 watts > Advanced built-in tourmaline technology minimizes time and reduces static > Six heat settings, two speed settings > Ergonomic handle for balance and control > Light-weight, low-noise AC motor > 3-metre cord and hanging loop for easy storage For more, visit www.wahlpro.com

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HAIRLINES

A Charged Affair Awards Gala and Unplugged Forum Make Contessa Inspiring, Engaging and Provocative THE BUZZ IS ON. THE VENUES ARE BOOKED. The tickets are going fast. Contessa weekend is about five weeks away. If you haven’t got your tickets and your party outfit for the Contessa gala figured out yet, you need to kick your purchasing schedule into high gear. And with the Contessa Unplugged forum happening on Monday, November 5, the Contessas have now become a weekend industry affair that can’t be missed. With the gala show theme Seasons and the awards ceremonies, you get your creative fix on Sunday. Then on Monday a limited number of lucky people who purchased tickets will get to converse with well-known industry personalities Robert Lobetta, Anna Pacitto-Merlo and Ray Civello. We will explore topics that will shape the future of our industry. It will be inspiring, engaging and provocative. The venue for this intimate gathering is a rustic converted old church building in a burgeoning downtown Toronto neighbourhood where trendy urban hip meets the edgy unkempt street. After the forum, you can mingle and chat with the guest speakers and your colleagues while you enjoy a tasty, eclectic lunch included in the ticket price. This is an event you don’t want to miss. Book your tickets now by calling Cindy at 416-869-3131, ext 119.—SP

Hope Builds Hair icon Vidal Sassoon heads up industry campaign to build homes for victims of Hurricane Katrina

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Ith the help of www.behindthechair.com’s Mary Rector-Gable, beauty industry giant Vidal Sassoon, who himself spent six years in an orphanage as a child, is leading an amazing campaign to rebuild homes for victims of Hurricane Katrina in the New Orleans area. In conjunction with Habitat for Humanity, Sassoon and Rector-Gable have formed Hairdressers Unlocking Hope, a campaign designed to rally support from within the entire professional beauty industry and aid the still massive destruction resulting from this terrible natural disaster. “Hundreds of people remain without homes, needing support to gain back the lifestyle they so deserve,” says Sassoon. “Hairdressers Unlocking Hope is dedicated to building 18 homes in November in St. Tammany Parish, Louisiana.” The campaign has garnered $2.1 million as of August 24 to help the victims of the 2005 Gulf Coast hurricanes. It uses world-renowned hairdressers to tell many of the stories of the

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displaced families, as in the poster above. Each house key actually comes from a house destroyed in Katrina. “Our two goals for the campaign are to bring continued awareness to the desperate plight of this city and its people and to show the world that working together the entire hairdressing industry can make miracles happen for those in need,” says Rector-Gable. During the week of August 22 to 29—Hairdressers Unlocking Hope Week—salons across the U.S. participated in special activities and promotions. Patrons of these salons also helped, as 100 per cent of the proceeds are going towards building another 15 homes next April for displaced people. The campaign is directed to consumers as well, through Rector-Gable’s new salon and spa directory website for consumers, www.whodoesyourhair.com.—SP

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HAIRLINES

How Refreshing Bain De Terre revitalizes line

I

t’s not exactly a relaunch,” says Natalie Leroux, director of marketing for Bain De Terre, of the spa therapy line’s realignment. “We see it as more of a “refresh.” Key to this new approach are four new hair therapies that emphasize how professionals and clients can pamper and protect hair. “We provide the steps for them to treat hair at home or the salon,” says Leroux. For example, step one would be the scalp exfoliator, step two would be the correct shampoo for the specific hair condition—let’s say Lemongrass Volumizing Shampoo—and step three would be one of the therapies, perhaps the Hair Strenghtening Mud Masque. “It’s about brand positioning, and Bain De Terre is a therapeutic product.” Leroux is very excited about products like the exfoliator, the Sugar and Fig Scalp Massage and Scrub, which she believes is the first of its type on the market. “It is so delicious, we have to warn clients not to eat it.” But the emphasis throughout the line is on “Botaniceuticals,” natural products that help repair, moisturize and strengthen hair. These include magnolia bark, wild jujube, black currant and goji berry, which are all free of pesticides and heavy metals. “Each product contains these four ingredients,” says Leroux. “Every shampoo, conditioner, styling product and spray, and, of course, hair therapy.” In addition, Bain De Terre has made the line more “user friendly.” “The old line had different names and scents for shampoos and conditioners,” continues Leroux. “In the new line, they are paired off, with similar fragrances and packaging. The new styling products are easier to recognize in terms of the packaging, and we have streamlined everything by eliminating certain products.” There are not too many products in the line, she adds, which makes it easy to understand for clients.—SP

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L’Anza introduces new colour line

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aintaining healthy hair and brilliant hair colour is the standard for L’Anza Healing Haircare. But while its products incorporate cutting-edge technology to provide nourishment for coloured hair, until now, the company has not had a “homegrown” colour line. However, the launch in May of L’Anza Healing Color has changed all that. “It was time to come full circle,” says Barbara Dauth, national training manager for L’Anza. “We had products that treated coloured hair; it was time for a colour product that also treated hair. This line incorporates the basic premise of all our other products, using reconstructive and healing research.” There are 50 different shades available with three different applications for each shade—permanent, demi-permanent and translucent. “You can replace everything in your cabinet with this product, which makes it cost- and space- efficient,” Dauth adds. “Now we have a full line that includes professional services, retail products and back-bar products.” But she feels the real advantage to L’Anza Healing Color lies in its technology. “We have incorporated our keratin healing system, where amino acids combine naturally with those in the hair.” In addition, it has both low pH and low ammonia levels that contribute to strength and conditioning. Also, L’Anza’s patented “flower shield” helps keep colour from fading. “Why don’t the colours in flowers wash out?” asks Dauth. That question led to the development of the “flower shield,” a process that helps maintain vivid, glossy colour. Ivo Tiberio, regional education manager for L’Anza in Canada, likes the artistic appeal of the new line. “There is so much simplicity and choice in how you use it. The stylist just has to change the developer to get that creative freedom. Also, while you are processing, you are actually helping to heal, seal and protect hair.” L’Anza is backing its new colour line with an aggressive educational campaign. Extensive support material is provided, along with both manufacturer and distributor classes. Tiberio, who has been a stylist and educator for 22 years, can’t stress enough the importance of education and a superior product. “The quality and integrity of the hair is of the utmost importance. Hair is like a canvas—if we destroy that canvas, then our work of art is destroyed.”—PF

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HAIRLINES

Cherry-licious

Cocoa-Caramel Ribbon

Matrix introduces the Chocolate Cherry Collection

Choco-Cherry Cordial

Tripple Mousse

HAIR FRANCO DELLA GRAZIA PHOTOS COURTESY MATRIX

I

Truffle Berry

f you think chocolate-dipped cherries sound tasty, just wait till you see how delicious

they look. The Chocolate Cherry Collection by Matrix brings these flavours into the realm of hair colour with 12 new shades and four scrumptious visuals. Released for fall/winter 2007, Chocolate Cherry is composed of six permanent SoColor shades and a series of six Color Sync demi-colours. The collection ranges from chestnut-mahogany reds to lush maple-ambers and tawny coppers. Franco Della Grazia, global artistic designer for Matrix, created the four Chocolate Cherry visuals: Cocoa-Caramel Ribbon, Choco-Cherry Cordial, Truffle-Berry and Triple-Mousse. To see more, visit www.salon52.ca.—MA

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nature’s prescription for beautiful hair

©2007 Piidea Canada Ltd., Bain de Terre Division, Pointe-Claire QC


MEN

Give him a FIX

Fix Men by Quantum tackles the men’s market

J

ust in time for the beginning of a major shopping season, the folks at Piidea Canada are launching FIX MEN by Quantum. This is a concise line of six simple, effective professional hair and grooming products specifically engineered for men. Its launch adds to the plethora of products being introduced specifically for men in the professional beauty industry. “FIX MEN was conceived and developed in the Canadian market with the Canadian consumer in mind,” says Jill Sanderson, assistant brand manager for Piidea Canada. “We developed the line to meet the needs of today’s man on the go. It’s as uncomplicated in product selection as usage. No fuss or guesswork needed.” All FIX MEN by Quantum products have the exclusive and ultra-masculine MVP Complex. MVP is an intense brew of minerals, vitamins and proteins for long-lasting moisturization, protection and strength. The FIX MEN line has a distinctly fresh masculine scent.—SP

CLEANSE/CONDITION: • DOUBLE UP conditioning shampoo and body wash. A daily conditioning shampoo and body wash to cleanse, quench and invigorate hair and body STYLING: • FIX IT industrial-strength gel. A super-holding gel specially engineered for styles demanding strong definition and sharp texture. The gel is unscented. • BODY BUILDER thickening liquid. An oil- and alcohol-free styling liquid that gives a thicker look and feel to natural styles with light hold. • PIECE KEEPER flexible texturizing styling paste GROOMING: • SMOOTH OPERATOR shave cream. A protective, lightweight shave cream engineered for a smooth, extra-close, comfortable shave. •

FACE FUEL anytime face balm. An oil-free, ultra-light face balm to hydrate, soothe, tone and brighten the skin.

The future of men A book that gives plenty of

I

helpful hints on marketing to male clients

f you're looking for loads of practical advice on how to understand and market to a male clientele The Future of Men will give you more than enough. I met one of the co-writers, Marian Salzman, when she spoke to a cross-section of beauty industry members at American Crew’s annual gathering in Denver last winter. Salzman and her two co-authors, Ira Matathia and Ann O’Reilly, are internationally renowned trend-spotters. This book takes an in-depth look at what it means to be male in today’s ever-changing world, where gender expectations have shifted drastically. I found Salzman’s presentation, and later the book, highly entertaining and at the same time packed with advice for anyone who markets to a male client. The book is published by Palgrave Macmillan and is available in leading bookstores at $ 18.95 for the paperback version.—SP

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HAIR ALEXANDERA BROWN PHOTO ALFONSO ARNOLD CONTESSA 18

THE PRODUCT LINEUP



BLONDIE

HAIR TRENDS

Collection: Chic Sauvage Sauvage, Vidal Sassoon Autumn/Winter 07 Collection Hair: Vidal Sassoon International Photos: courtesy Vidal Sassoon

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â–¼

Artistic Team

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UPCOMING GREAT LENGTHS EDUCATION SEMINARS VANCOUVER October 14-15 TORONTO October 28-29 November 18-19 December 2-3 *In-house seminars available by special arrangement. Learn more about joining the Great Lengths Certified Salon Network today by calling HSC International at 1-800-461-9302 or write to us at info@hscinternational.com.

state of an art

HAIR - genetics made it what it is – Great Lengths perfects it with the technology only the most recognized name in hair extensions can deliver. Add length, volume, colour and style with the most advanced and gentle methods of application, available only through Great Lengths Certified Extension Artists. First quality, 100% human hair strands are available in 35 hand-blended shades plus 14 “fashion” shades. www.hscinternational.com


Collection: Goldwell Topchic Max Reds series Hair: Goldwell for the new Topchic Max Reds series Photos: courtesy Goldwell

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â–¼

STROKE OF RED

HAIR TRENDS

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SCARLET FEVER

HAIR TRENDS

Collection: Ready For Reds Hair: Lucie Doughty for John Paul Mitchell Systems Makeup: Roshar Wardrobe: Kelli Hobson Photos: Sean Armenta

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SCENE

TEASING PEEPS The Fashion Cares 2007 annual charity event takes place in Toronto By Stephen Puddister Photos by David Hou

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H

osted by Canada’s Next Top Model’s Jay Manuel in Toronto’s historic Distillery District, the 21st annual Fashion Cares benefit for the AIDS Committee of Toronto took place May 12. A sellout crowd was lured by the venue’s trademark Victorian industrial architecture, and the show was presented under a marquee right on the district’s pedestrian street. The theme this year was Peep, a seductive idea brought to life by headline performers like Dita Von Teese, Mya and Kelly Rowland. Fashion Cares has raised over $10 million for people suffering from AIDS. S

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C O N T E S S A G A L L E RY

Natural State

Judy MacDonald takes a cue from the Canadian wilderness for her Contessa 18 collection E d i t e d b y M o r e l l a A g u i r r e

F

or me, these photos bring together

nature and fashion. I tent to spend a lot of time outdoors, so I instinctively wanted to use elements that are part of the natural world— things like feathers, furs and the colours that you would see in a campfire. I also wanted the images to be feminine and soft but still have a fashion-y edge to them. At our salon, we take a full year to plan our photo shoots. The first thing we determine is the feelings we want to evoke with our photographs. We decide on key words to describe what we want to accomplish and then we begin researching shapes, textures and colours. I look at photos from the latest runway shows to see what the big designers are doing. I’m always drawn to the work of Alexander McQueen. His ideas and sense of form are very inspirational. I love producing my own collection because it keeps my creative juices flowing. It’s something that you do on your own terms. Generally, the whole reason we do the job is to make others happy. The reason we photo-shoot is to make us happy.

“This model is a natural level four. I was going for a bright fuchsia, but in the end the look became red, white and blue.”

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Hair: Judy MacDonald, Hair Factory, St. John’s, Newfoundland Makeup: Veronica B. Chu Photos: Doug McMillan

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“The bright red hair colour was based on my own hair. I just had to do one model that was inspired by me. And it was a pretty drastic change for the model—she’s a natural level six.”

“We really wanted people to be automatically drawn to the girls’ eyes. I think background and model choices helped achieve that.”

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C O N T E S S A G A L L E RY

Girls Gone Wild

Inspiration

Judy MacDonald’s MacDonald Contessa

Detail Oriented Using OPI lacquers, McDonald coordinated nail colours with the overall look of the photo. “I did the nails myself,” says MacDonald, “There’s nothing worse than seeing model photos where the nails are left undone.”

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18 storyboard

King McQueen The work of British fashion designer Alexander McQueen is a huge influence for MacDonald, who advises hairstylists to study both fashion and beauty trends. S

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RUNWAY PHOTO KEYSTONE PRESS AGENCY, TOP PHOTO ISTOCK

“Creating cool tones is always easier on lighter hair. Aside from the green pieces, this is the model who underwent the least amount of change.”

Designing and constructing the wardrobe herself, MacDonald borrowed elements from animal life to bring a sense of nature and femininity to her photos. White feathers and fur detailing where used with lace and stretch jerseys.


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�I trust a brand so much more, if a little bit of me goes into the product!� Alan, salon owner, Witney

Distributed by: ONTARIO: Liquid Luxuries, a division of TBBS 1-800-387-2962 QUEBEC: Cosbec 1-800-363-1576


Debating the

Colourist / Cutter Conundrum

o

He said, she said

By Stephen Puddister

ver the past few years I have had several discussions with hairstylists and salon owners about a hot topic in the business: the departmentalized salon. I have heard the pros and cons to each side

of the argument several times over from people across the country. Some believe that from a business perspective it’s best to have two departments. Others say that from an artistic standpoint a departmentalized shop creates problems, with the colourist feeling creatively inferior to the cutter, or vice versa. And this is not just an issue here in Canada. It’s a global discussion that often pops up when beauty pros gather. Check out my letter on page 12 to see how this topic came up while I was in London last year. With this in mind, we decided to invite two salon owners to comment on the topic here. To give you a chance to speak your mind as well, we will post this story on salon52.ca this month, where I invite you all to engage in the lively debate that is the colourist /cutter departmentalized conundrum.

He said...................................

t one time I thought colourists were hairstylists who couldn’t cut it. As a platform artist, educator, salon owner and hairstylist, I believed at the time that you should do it all. But I have since changed my mind.

Would you go to a general practitioner for heart or brain surgery? Would you go to a tax lawyer for a murder case or to a crop duster to fly the space shuttle? The point is, when you specialize in something, you will become the very best in that field. In Toronto’s Yorkville district, where one of my salons is located, people demand the best. The reason why many old-school hairstylists think that departmentalized salons don’t work is because there wasn’t proper consultation between the stylist, the colourist and the client. All three need to see the vision in

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SHEARS COURTESY DWA FOR KASHO

a

Roberto Barbosa, Salon Escape, Toronto and Calgary


order to have the stylist and colourist complement each other’s work. This also maximizes salon output when booked properly. Stylists who do both never seem to have enough time to go the extra mile, such as doing a few more highlights, a conditioning treatment or a colour gloss. By being departmentalized, your team has more time to perform extra services. More services equal more money and happier clients who feel they are special because they have their team of beauty experts. Now, in Calgary, where my other salon is located, this concept was relatively new when I opened a couple of years ago. So it was important that when Salon Escape launched services this way that clients saw the benefit. The people of Calgary are really warming up to this way of service because it’s new and they can tell all their friends they have technicians working on their hair. The key is not the stylist or the colourist; it’s all about the client. So both stylist and colourist have to work together, to feed one another and understand each other’s styles and the nuances they are trying to achieve for the client. Anyone can learn how to paint or sculpt, but a true artist, like Picasso or van Gogh, is one in a million. So can hairstylists do both cut and colour? Sure. But my point is this: is it the best it can be? Is it bright, soft? How’s the precision, texture and integrity of the hair? Probably not as good as it could be with a specialist for cut and colour. I believe anyone who truly specializes will always outperform anyone who generally does everything. And you can take that to the bank.

She said ....................................................

i

Shannon Simmonds, On the Fringe Hair Design, Vancouver and Victoria

have never worked in a salon where one had to choose to be a stylist or colourist. I’m sure there are many positive reasons for choosing one or the other. I’d like to write about my experiences with being a stylist and salon owner who does both. As a hairstylist, I started out wanting to be a cutter. I loved how I could change a person’s look through cuts. It wasn’t until later that I realized I could do the same thing with colour. When my fear of colour was gone, my whole professional world opened up. If I had chosen to be strictly a cutter in the beginning, I never would have discovered this. By not being forced to choose a department at the beginning of my career, I was allowed a greater understanding of both departments through education and experience. I needed time to make my decision. Fifteen years later, I still can’t decide which I like more. I love the independence I have both creatively and practically by being a stylist and colourist. Creatively, I’m able to take an idea for a look and see it to fruition. I can create something that starts with inspiration, and there is no need to try and explain my idea to someone else. It is my creation, and I love that! Practically, by doing both I have been able to travel and work in many different environments. I am not limited to salons or experiences that are dependent on departmental work. I have been a stylist for 15 years and a salon owner for nine. I opened my first salon in Victoria nine years ago and then the second salon in Vancouver four years after. Both salons are on university campuses and structured to promote creativity for the stylists and clientele. All the stylists, myself included, do both colour and cuts. I find it easier to organize the appointments and schedules with the stylists doing both departments. I tend to take stylists right out of school. I prefer to educate the junior stylists to follow the On the Fringe format, thus creating a consistency with both salons. I like the fact that all the stylists, at all levels, advance in both colour and cutting. They start out cutting, and when they are more comfortable, they advance to colour. It is great to see how the stylists advance to take a client and create a beautiful cut and colour that make that client beam. Obviously, there are stylists who prefer one aspect over the other, but they are still able to do both very well. Some of my stylists have gone on to become educators and won makeover awards. I’m very proud of them. We are so lucky in this industry to have the option of being a cutter, colourist or both. These options should be seen as opportunities rather than limitations. If a stylist’s talent is stronger in one department, they have the opportunity to flourish in that department rather than being frustrated with both and quitting the industry. It is important that the new stylist has an opportunity to truly experience both before making a decision. I made my choice. I will always prefer to do both. S

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october 07 < salon

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COLO

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DCSTM, is a true sulfate-free product. Clients will love the oversized 12 ounce tube that allows them to use every last drop while maintaining their vibrant color.

SMART SOLUTIONS® Dual-Action Crème Conditioner

DCCTM, is packaged in an 8 ounce tube and can be used as a daily conditioner or as a deep moisturizing pac. It is the perfect companion to DCS and as in all SMART SOLUTIONS products: • Contains plant extracts for great conditioning and extreme color hold. • Developed by hairstylists like you. • Attractive, clean packaging, super concentrated formulas (not watered down, less is more). • Larger sizes, pleasant fragrances, and highly competitive prices keep retail profits in the salon (where they belong). So the next time you are in a supermarket/ drugstore and see the diverted line that you helped build... Remember: There is no diversion problem in the beauty industry, only...

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Modern Life in Colour

Schwarzkopf Professional releases Essential Looks for fall 2007 Te x t b y M o r e l l a A g u i r r e

P

roduced twice yearly, Schwarzkopf’s Essential Looks is a creative and educational

package

including

an image collection, a step-by-step book and an instructional DVD. This season, Essential Looks features the Modern Life collection, a four-trend photo range inspired by the runway fashions of fall/ winter 2007. In the upcoming weeks we will bring you complete we showcase a few colourful selections.

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â–ź

coverage of Modern Life on www.salon52.ca. Here,

october 07 < salon

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Modern Life in Colour

Collection: Schwarzkopf Professional Essential Looks Modern Life Collection for fall/winter 2007 Creative Direction: Steve Hogan Creative Direction, hair: Tyler Johnston Photos: Paul Wetherell

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Holiday Survival Guide

Make ake the most of this profitable season with the tools at your disposa disposal Holiday retailing

for two if she sells out of Christmas packs.

At this time of year your BFF should be the stocking stuffer.

This is the time of year people are giving willingly,

So lesson one is to mind your holiday merchandising.

and nothing says holiday spirit more than giving back to

Remember to find creative ways to make your seasonal

the community. Associating your Christmas pack sales

retail products irresistible to your clients.

with a cause is a great way to do your part and attract

Marianne Medeiros, marketing and education director

clients to the products.

for Schwarzkopf Professional, suggests dedicating some

Matrix Canada has partnered with the Children’s

space for Christmas-inspired decorations featuring

Wish Foundation in an ongoing alliance and has

retail products. “Build a display around the products

created a special Matrix Holiday Duo for the season.

by investing in some Christmas tree ornaments or a

It will donate a portion of the profits from each sale

miniature tree,” she says. “If you want to sell something,

of the duo, available in salons in October, to the

you need to shout it out. You should also make Christmas

Children’s Wish Foundation, which grants wishes to

packs complete. Buy gift bags and tissue paper and turn

kids ages three to 17 who are afflicted with high-risk,

them into easy gifts to give.”

life-threatening illnesses.

Although probably not the most common gift, hair

“It’s a great conversation starter,” says Amélie Choquette

products are always so appreciated on the other end,

for Matrix Canada. “Stylists can display the duo on their

she adds. Another great way to ensure that you don’t get

work station and provide information about the foundation

stuck with the holiday stock is by spiffing the appropriate

to their clients. The packaging is easily identifiable and

people; i.e., the receptionist gets a certificate for dinner

even features the Wish Foundation’s mascot.”

by Tina Christopoulos

Top 5 tips to

breeze through the holidays Contessa Elite Master Hairstylist winner Suzanne Martin from Three Small Rooms suggests:

1.

GET HELP Call hairdressing schools and recruit interns for shampoos and other tasks. Book your junior staff in the morning when it’s less busy and use the time to train your new interns.

2. CREATE A TEAM Let your junior stylists help. Tell your clients who want to absolutely come on short appointments that you can’t do their blow-dry, and delegate it.

3.

BOOK SMART Book appointments regularly, but don’t overbook during crunch period. If a client comes every four weeks and doesn’t need a cut the last week of December, schedule it for the new year. CREATE INCENTIVE Remember that your staff needs rest. Consider closing between Christmas and New Year’s for some much-needed R and R. PLAN AHEAD Don’t get overwhelmed during this season. Keep your books clean and plan your financial year ahead. Be aware of your high and low cash-flow periods and keep clean records.

4. 5.

Client appreciation

The new Holiday Sweet Petites by Essie are the perfect way for nail technicians to thank their clients for their business and whet their appetite for the newest lacquers. Give the miniature bottles away as a holiday gift and mention the Handi-Helpers, a pack of 36 minis—a retail item for stocking stuffers. It’s not too late. This is the time to plan ahead, because come November you simply won’t have the time or energy to premeditate. S

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F E AT U R E S

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Colour Couture

s

Farouk Systems releases Ode to Couture for fall/winter 2007

Te x t b y M o r e l l a A g u i r r e

uitability is more important than the say-so fashion,” says Woody Michleb, artistic director for Farouk Systems. “This is what we always try to emphasize. If fashion is dictating mahogany or beach blonde hair but it doesn’t suit the client, then it

simply won’t work.” Taking a cue from custom-crafted haute couture fashion design, Farouk Systems’ new Ode to Couture collection is based on the notion of working with an individual’s own silhouette, tone and fashion sense. “We wanted the focus to be the client’s body, just as in couture design. Our goal is to enhance personal features and mirror the style of a client,” adds Michleb. “In Ode to Couture we also address another common fashion faux pas. We very much disagree with the idea that just because the sky turns grey and dark in the fall and winter our clothes and hair have to as well.” Collection: Ode to Couture, Farouk Systems USA fall/winter 2007 Hair: Woody Michleb and the Farouk Systems artistic board of directors Photos: Babak

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Showcasing light and bright colours, the looks from Ode to Couture will serve as the basis for a step-by-step DVD featuring cut and colour techniques and reintroducing Farouk’s newly relaunched Sunglitz lighteners. “The new Sunglitz lighteners lift, neutralize and tone up to four levels in 15 minutes,” says Michleb. “And they’re ammonia-free!” Shot by veteran hair photographer Babak, Ode to Couture offers a bright and sunny vision for fall/winter 07. Visit www.salon52.ca to view the entire collection.

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New Kids on the Block A look at what drives the individuals behind three new Canadian professional beauty companies By Pam Fulford

L-R: Ed Légere and Joe Chimenti

K.U.M. HAIR CARE Artist Choice general manager Seanna King

ARTIST CHOICE Distributor of HairDo Clip-in Extensions from Jessica Simpson and Ken Pavés and Profound Beauty products; www.artistchoice.ca “It’s a matter of timing,” says owner John Donato. “In the past, I’ve let some exciting business opportunities go by, so when the chance came up to distribute HairDo Clip-in Extensions from Jessica Simpson and Ken Pavés, I jumped at it. The product is very versatile. We thought they would be popular for the 15-to-35 year-old age group, but we’re even seeing older women using them.” In addition, Artist Choice distributes Profound Beauty, a unique wet line that is co-branded by its global manufacturer and the individual salon that prescribes it. “It’s really a treatment service. Clients sit down with their stylist and are advised which products are right for their hair,” says Donato. Donato thinks success lies in finding unique products that bring value to individual salons. “Our biggest problem now is growth—we can’t seem to train staff quickly enough to satisfy our demands.”

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Manufacturer of K.U.M. Hair Care products; www.kumhaircare.com “How do you keep customers buying from salons and not drugstores?” asks Joe Chimenti, owner of Marca College Beauty Schools and several salons in the greater Toronto area. “By giving them a quality product that can’t be matched elsewhere.” For this reason, Chimenti and his team developed the high-end K.U.M. Hair Care line, products that use the kumquat (a rich Oriental fruit) as the basic ingredient. But having an excellent product is not always good enough. According to Ed Légere, vice-president of marketing, the way you sell that product is also key. “We believe in our product, and that’s how we sell it. While we think it stands on its own, we have come up with creative ways to market it.” To that end, K.U.M. has targeted individual salons, encouraged sidewalk sample sales and worked with stylists to help them sell to clients. “I think we’ve combined a superior product with a sexy, sassy, urban marketing campaign,” says Chimenti.

V I S O T R A D I N G C O M PA N Y Distributor of Torlen appliances; www.visotrading.com Just two years old, Viso is making inroads with its line of Torlen appliances that includes hair dryers and flat and curling irons. Owner Kris Patel has several companies related to the beauty industry, and Viso’s success so far can be attributed to experience, a quality product and a well-thought-out business plan. According to Mike Gould, international sales and marketing manager (pictured right), knowing your competition and target market is extremely important. “We want a professional product that’s high-quality and longer-lasting. It has to provide a better value to the client.” Gould points out that you only get to impress clients once or twice—if they don’t like it, they’ll look elsewhere. Gould, who has years of experience in the industry, is excited about every aspect of the business. “We’ve done so much research and testing—everything from product development to packaging to category expansion. It has been so much fun.” S

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Colour Photography Montreal’s Salon Pure takes home its second NAHA with a colour-rich black-and-white collection

Te x t b y M o r e l l a A g u i r r e

C

an hair colour be shown through black-and-white photography? This was one of the

questions the artists at Salon Pure chose to explore in their NAHA 18 salon team entry. Winning a second NAHA for the Montreal salon, the collection proves that yes, hair colour is visible through the values and contrasts of black-and-white images. Choosing to shoot unconventional angles—the pictures contain absolutely no eye contact and mostly focus on the back and sides of the models’ heads—Salon Pure’s photos are surprisingly direct and to the point. The viewer has no choice but to focus on the hair’s cut, texture, style and colour, proving that an artistic statement can be as functional as it is beautiful.

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Collection: NAHA 18 Salon Team of the Year collection Hair: Salon Pure Photos: Ara Sassoonian

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S

october 07 < salon

57


Scottish Glamour Charlie Miller salon releases its 2007 collection

Te x t b y S t e p h e n P u d d i s t e r

W

ith these young, fresh glamorous girls, Jason and India Miller from Charlie Miller salon in Edinburgh

have created delicate yet powerful, sophisticated looks through various texture techniques including weaving, layering and using a curling iron. Graduated bobs with voluminous texture show individualistic looks with punch for youthful faces. We chose one of them as our cover this month.

Hair: Jason & India Miller at Charlie Miller Makeup: Yasmin Heinz Wardrobe: Damian Foxe Photos: Felix Lammers

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S

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By Pam Fulford

Full Speed Ahead F

Dennis Bernard Inc. puts a foot on the accelerator

or a fledgling company, one revolutionary product can mean the difference between success and failure. In 1983, Dennis Bernard Inc. started up and immediately set an industry standard with TCA, The Color Accelerator. Simply described, TCA is an additive that can develop and speed up hair colour services to under 15 minutes—and it has been the stepping stone to the company’s success. In the 20-plus years since Dennis Bernard Inc. started, TCA has become an industry staple. “It’s not just about speed, though fast-forwarding colour is a dream come true,” says president and CEO Dennis Bernard Campanaro. “It’s about so much more. TCA allows salons and stylists the luxury of flexibility—they can do fast colour, or medium or slow. It depends on what their schedule demands.” In the long run, it allows stylists to accommodate more clients for colour and high lift, the most lucrative services for salons. And Campanaro likes to point out the other bonuses. “TCA also eliminates colour fadeout and conditions hair so that it feels like silk.” The success of TCA led Dennis Bernard Inc. into many different areas. “We realized early on that the only openings in today’s industry are niche products,” he says. To that end, the company has become involved in everything from education to advertising to hands-on products like TCA. “It’s all about being creative. For example, in the 1980s we realized that original window displays were one of the most effective ways to bring customers into salons.” As a result, the company sells a line of posters and banners that salons can use to enhance their storefront presence. In addition, they have an entire division—Smart Solutions—that caters to education, including how-to books on colouring, extensions and perms. But for Campanaro, the company functions on many different levels. “It is also very much a family effort. I started out as a young boy working in my father’s barbershop. In fact, he and I developed TCA together. All my brothers and I work in the business—we love what we do.” Passion is probably the secret ingredient that makes the company so successful. “I think we feel very lucky to be able to do what we love. And that inspires us to always be looking for something new, something different.” In fact, the inability to be creative is something he considers a major drawback in the beauty industry today. “I think the industry is flat,” he admits. “Some manufacturers have shot themselves in the foot. Women don’t need to go into salons—they can buy appliances and diverted products to create the look they want.” How to solve the problem? “We have to offer something special. Signature hairstyles like the Dorothy Hamill wedge—I’m dating myself here—or Jennifer Aniston’s cut actually brought large numbers of women into salons. People like to be part of a trend. I think we have to keep re-inventing ourselves, developing new appliances and new looks. The answer is to forgo short-term profits and work on benefits that will work in the long run.” S

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ESTHETICS

Smooth moves When it comes to laser hair removal, not all machines – or clients – are created equal By Chantel Simmons No pain, no hair loss? While your clients’ quest for hair-free legs, underarms and backs may be an old tune, a pain-free, long-lasting alternative called the NexGen Soprano will have your clients singing your praises.

C AT C H A W A V E The traditional—and most common—salon-grade laser hair removal machines use quasiwave technology, explains Paul Rex, marketing director at NexGen. What this means: “You get peaks and troughs in the way the light is being delivered. The problem with this is that the light can go past the therapeutic range and burn the skin.” The NexGen Soprano joins the small, elite field of diode lasers—known as the “gold standard” in hair removal. Diode technology includes continuous wave technology, so instead of sending out a shot of light, which can burn or sting, it uses a “paintbrush technique,” reducing the pain of a sudden shot of light. That, combined with the diode laser’s ability to send light to the therapeutic range but never past it—as well as the sapphire-tip contact cooling system and a cold air adaptor that increases patient comfort— results in little or no pain, burning or stinging sensations.

SPEED ZONE Until recently, the best laser hair removal machines could send out light at a rate of two times per second. Not bad, but the Soprano sends light at a rate of three times per second on sensitive areas such as the face and neck. And for the back, chest and legs, the Soprano offers super hair removal at a rate of 10 times per second, which means increased productivity and profitability for you and better results for your client.

C O LO U R B L I N D Whether we like it or not, hair and skin colour are factors in getting rid of hair. “People with black skin are always going to have more difficulty getting rid of hair,” says Rex, due to overproduction of melanin. “With an IPL, they run the risk of getting hypo-pigmentation. But the Soprano has been approved to remove black hair on black skin. They will see effective results.” “No laser will remove blonde hair,” says Rex. “The light is attracted to the melanin in the skin, so if there’s no melanin it’s not effective. What this means: If your client has fair skin and blonde hair, you should advise him or her that no laser hair removal machine will be effective, Rex adds. Instead, maybe advise these clients to opt for electrolysis, which will give them the best results they can achieve, and not leave them disappointed by ineffective laser hair removal sessions.

F I N A L R E S U LT S While IPL machines send light out to a larger area, the diode laser is more precise, firing in a 1-nanometre range, so it’s more definitive, resulting in fewer sessions. With an IPL, your clients can expect six to nine treatments, whereas with the diode laser they should be “virtually hairless” within four to five treatments. S Chantel Simmons is the editor-in-chief of Elevate magazine, covering anti-aging, enhancement and wellness.

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“I have designed a resolutely modern but equally glamorous and sexy collection for Maletti. A zen and ultra sophisticated ambiance” Didier Gomez, Paris, 2006

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64

salon > october 07

T

to success

by Tina Christopoulos

here is something to be said for taking initiative. When Daniel Robert bought his tanning business, Salon Evasion, in St. Rose, Quebec, in March 2006, there were 300 memberships. It took his marketing experience and his thirst for adventure to create a concept that allowed him to triple that number in just one year. “I was bored with the same old themes in tanning salons,” he says. “You will almost always see palm trees and island names, and I didn’t want to be part of that.” That’s when Robert decided he wanted his salon to stand out and represent his clientele in Quebec. “Let’s face it, we’re not about beaches and surfing here. What we do identify with, however, are motorcycles.” So Robert based his salon—machinery and all—on the look and feel of Harley Davidson motorcycles. Taking his top tanning machine, Robert recruited a manufacturing company to build it into a look-alike of the popular motorcycle. He also hung an original Harley from the ceiling, and matched his interior decor to his newly established theme. “But having the right idea wasn’t enough,” says Robert. “I knew that there were 15,000 to 20,000 cars passing by my street on any given day,” he says. “I had to find a way to attract them to my business.” A full-on direct marketing campaign was what Robert had in mind. He hung promotional posters in his windows, sent out flyers and pamphlets to neighbouring addresses and sent a promotional Hummer through the neighbourhood. “I’m also a big self-promoter,” he says. “ I spoke to everyone I know about it, and urged them to tell their friends.” But above and beyond the salon's new aesthetic it was imperative for Robert that he and his staff were educated and fully informed on the benefits and effects of tanning. “There isn’t a single client question that we are not prepared to answer. We’re constantly getting up-to-date information and always looking to learn more about our industry.” Robert thinks it’s the only business where the motto “the client is always right” doesn’t apply. “We limit their exposure and control the outcome. It’s normal—we’re the professionals and we’re always in a position to back up our decisions with relevant information.” As of July 15, Robert has 2,200 members and growing, with the province’s first hydration station, a juice bar with healthy beverages, a massage chair and more services scheduled to be implemented in the fall and spring. S

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NAILS

By Morella Aguirre

Creative Vision Creative Nail Design is now CND

O

nce upon a time it was called Creative Nail Design. Today, this fashion-forward company focusing on hands, feet and beauty has been reborn simply as CND. Aside from the name change, CND has undergone a total image revamp—a complete and coherent overhaul of its brand identity. The result is a more streamlined vision and unified look complete with a sleek new logo, website, advertising campaign, educational institute and flagship salon. “Our new logo and packaging is simplified and branded clearly across all categories, ” says Jan Arnold, co-founder of CND. “This way, nail professionals and their clients are assured of quality systems and excellent results. CND is modern and easily recognized. Our main focus—hands, feet, beauty—stands out.” Integral to CND’s reinvention is an energized commitment to education, a mission highly represented in the inauguration of the CND Institute in early 2008. Located in Los Angeles, the institute will offer a complete range of courses and be a global hub where certified CND Canadian

CND pros can share knowledge and ideas. Adjacent to this worldclass educational centre will be Concept CND, the company’s flagship salon specializing in beauty care for hands and feet. “We envision the CND Institute as the first step in a global plan to elevate the state of the nail industry. It will be the ultimate location for cutting-edge new programs in technology, business, communication and the art form of nails.” explains Arnold. “Concept CND will be the pre-eminent location for women and men to have the newest nail concepts, services and home care products available. It will serve to elevate the professional and make nails the must-have fashion accessory.” The grand unveiling of the new CND brand took place from July 16 to 18 at the New Creative, a two-day educational gathering and celebration in Las Vegas, Nevada. With over 400 industry professionals and insiders in attendance, the event culminated with a huge party celebration in typical creative style. S

team

Doug Smith and Jan Arnold

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New Body Butter Retail Towers

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NCAO S I LOSP

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VIII, eggplant creme

IX, black brown shimmer

China Glaze celebrates its 10th anniversary

VII, plum creme

VI, deep coral shimmer

IV, carnation pink creme

V Coral Creme

In celebration of its 10th anniversary this fall, China Glaze has released a 12-shade collection titled X, A Decade of Fine Colourware. Using Roman numerals as part of its naming convention, X includes shades that range from pinks and corals to plums and browns. Here are our six favourite hues. Visit www.salon52.ca or www.chinaglaze.com for more.—MA

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salon > october 07

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l a y o R y s a t Fan Rockin’ Rubies 258 My Royal Robe 255 Victorian Violet 256 Antique Silver 257

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CONTESSA 19 THE CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR AWARDS

CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST

CANADIAN SALON TEAM

ELITE MASTER HAIRSTYLIST

MAKEOVER COLOURIST

Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co.

Eden Salon

Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co.

Erin Nicole Bick, Hairmasters

Erin Fernandes, Eden Salon

Enviro Trends

Marc Charbonneau, Vault Salon & Spa

Carol Van Breda, Heads Up

Exit Hair Salon

John Jen Hoe Chong, Ricci Hair Co.

Crystal Brown, Ricci Hair Co.

Johnny Cupello, JC Salons

Jennifer Caligiuri, In Style Hair &

Edwin Johnston, The Cutting Room Hair Design Rasa Jurenas, BesSpa Lizanne Laurin, Vault Salon & Spa Dana Lyseng, Supernova The Salon

Glam Salon Boutique

Richard Desharnais, Richard

Hair Factory

Desharnais Coiffure

Hair2 Inc Headlines Salon & Spa

Skin Care Marc Charbonneau, Vault Salon & Spa

Marie-Josée Dupuis, Escompte-Coiffe

Joanna Cini, Taz Hair Co.

John Graham, Vault Salon & Spa

Lisa Coumbs, Once & Again Hair Design

Edwin Johnston, The Cutting

Marie-Josée Dupuis, Escompte-Coiffe

Lisa McAuliffe, Salon Afif

JC Salons

Suzanne Martin, Three Small Rooms

James Brett Coiffure

Eva Molenda, Taz Hair Co.

Julie’s Hair Studio

Lizanne Laurin, Vault Salon and Spa

Kimberly Hillis, David Hillis Salon Spa

Rudy Pignataro, Salon G & A Inc.

Michael’s Hair Body Mind

Dana Lyseng, Supernova The Salon

Cindy Hudson, Hair Factory

Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co.

Moods Hair Salon

Suzanne Martin, Three Small Rooms

Rasa Jurenas, BesSpa

Salon Pure

Eva Molenda, Taz Hair Co.

Chrissy Marr, Hair Artistic & Laser Clinic

Lina Morra-Lomangino, Michael’s Hair

Susannah Morra, Michael’s

Mirella Rota Sementilli, Salon Shampoo Ara Sassoonian, Salon Pure Shannon Simmonds, On the Fringe Hair Design Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon & Spa

Room Hair Design

Ricci Hair Co.

Body Mind

Salon G & A Inc. Studio 157 Supernova The Salon

Erin Fernandes, Eden Salon

Health and Beauty

Daniel Naumovski, Taz Hair Co.

Rudy Pignataro, Salon G & A Inc.

Alain Pereque, Salon Pure

Betania Sanchez, Salon Obscure

Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co.

Shelley Simms, Hair Factory

Jane Tecson, Vault Salon & Spa

Taz Hair Co.

Mirella Rota Sementilli, Salon Shampoo

Rita Thomas, Il Destino Salon and Spa

Jason Traicheff, Elegance Salon Spa

Three Small Rooms

Rafael Scasserra, Xpression The Salon

Klaudia Tracewicz, Taz Hair Co.

Lorraine Wilkins, Enviro Trends

Valentino’s Grande Salon

Derek Wierzbicki, Studio 237 Hair Designs

Silas Chi Sun Tsang, Blushes I Hair &

Kitty X, Vault Salon & Spa

Lorraine Wilkins, Enviro Trends

Day Spa

SESSION HAIRSTYLIST

TEXTURE HAIRSTYLIST

MAKEUP ARTIST

MEN’S HAIRSTYLIST

Tania Becker, Moods Hair Salon

Jeffrey Altenburg, Shampoo Planet

C.B. Buzzanga, Philosophies

Darrelle Clancy, Zazou Salon and Spa

Louis Hechter, Orbite Coupe – Beauté

Véronique Beaupré, Salon Pure

Mélanie Bélanger, Character Salon

Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co.

Miranda Fox, Three Small Rooms

Giancarlo Intini, Ford

Rasa Jurenas, BesSpa

Cheryl Gushue, Taz Hair Co.

Phillip Elliott, Diva Salon & Spa

Eva Molenda, Taz Hair Co.

Giancarlo Intini, Ford

Lizanne Laurin, Vault Salon & Spa

Tanya Pensack, Vault Salon & Spa

Alexandre Lajoie, d... Coiffure

Sandro Zamparini, Pop Design Salon

Lisa Sallabank, Entrenous

Vittorio Masecchia, Freelance

Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co.

Nicole Porodo, Carrie’L Salon & Spa

and Spa Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co.

Salon & Spa

Hair Studio

Jocelyn Closas, Vault Salon & Spa Timothy Day Howard, Sound Salon Spa Marie-Josée Dupuis, Escompte-Coiffe Mike Insalaco, Hot Heads Salon Jimmy Lapointe, Axis Salon Andrew Ly, Salon Pure

Clarissa Pupo, Toni & Guy

Paul Pereira, Now Salon

Eve Parr, Studio 157

Jane Tecson, Vault Salon & Spa

Francesco Ramirez, Salon Pure

Stacey Staley, Blonde

Rudy Pignataro, Salon G & A Inc.

Kitty X, Vault Salon & Spa

Richard St. Laurent, Salon Inpure

Dennis Voltan, Salon Inpure

S U B S C R I B E T O O U R E - N E W S L E T T E R AT SALON52.CA AND BE THE FIRST TO KNOW THE CONTESSA 19 FINALISTS.

70

salon > october 07

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Photos Contessa 18, From top Hair Frank Dicintio Makeup Giancarlo Intini Photo Babak; Nails Jennifer Bennett Makeup Veronica B. Chu Photo Doug McMillan Photos Contessa 18, Hair Frank Dicintio Makeup Giancarlo Intini Photo Babak; Hair Jagoda Hall Makeup Maria Arnos Bikas Photo Paula Tizzard

John Graham, Vault Salon & Spa


CONTESSA 19 THE CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR AWARDS

CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST

CANADIAN SALON TEAM

ELITE MASTER HAIRSTYLIST

MAKEOVER COLOURIST

Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co.

Eden Salon

Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co.

Erin Nicole Bick, Hairmasters

Erin Fernandes, Eden Salon

Enviro Trends

Marc Charbonneau, Vault Salon & Spa

Carol Van Breda, Heads Up

Exit Hair Salon

John Jen Hoe Chong, Ricci Hair Co.

Crystal Brown, Ricci Hair Co.

Johnny Cupello, JC Salons

Jennifer Caligiuri, In Style Hair &

Edwin Johnston, The Cutting Room Rasa Jurenas, BesSpa Lizanne Laurin, Vault Salon & Spa Dana Lyseng, Supernova The Salon Lisa McAuliffe, Salon Afif Suzanne Martin, Three Small Rooms Eva Molenda, Taz Hair Co. Rudy Pignataro, Salon G & A Inc. Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co. Mirella Rota Sementilli, Salon Shampoo Ara Sassoonian, Salon Pure Shannon Simmonds, On the Fringe Hair Design Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon & Spa

Glam Salon Boutique

Richard Desharnais, Richard

Hair Factory

Desharnais Coiffure

Hair2 Inc

Skin Care Marc Charbonneau, Vault Salon & Spa

Marie-Josée Dupuis, Escompte-Coiffe

Joanna Cini, Taz Hair Co.

John Graham, Vault Salon & Spa

Lisa Coumbs, Once & Again Hair Design

JC Salons

Edwin Johnston, The Cutting Room

Marie-Josée Dupuis, Escompte-Coiffe

James Brett Coiffure

Lizanne Laurin, Vault Salon and Spa

Erin Fernandes, Eden Salon

Julie’s Hair Studio

Dana Lyseng, Supernova The Salon

Kimberly Hillis, David Hillis Salon Spa

Michael’s Hair Body Mind

Suzanne Martin, Three Small Rooms

Cindy Hudson, Hair Factory

Moods Hair Salon

Eva Molenda, Taz Hair Co.

Rasa Jurenas, BesSpa

Salon Pure

Lina Morra-Lomangino, Michael’s Hair

Chrissy Marr, Hair Artistic & Laser Clinic

Headlines Salon & Spa

Body Mind

Ricci Hair Co.

Daniel Naumovski, Taz Hair Co.

Salon G & A Inc. Studio 157 Supernova The Salon

Susannah Morra, Michael’s Hair Body Mind

Alain Pereque, Salon Pure

Rudy Pignataro, Salon G & A Inc.

Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co.

Betania Sanchez, Salon Obscure

Mirella Rota Sementilli, Salon Shampoo

Shelley Simms, Hair Factory

Jane Tecson, Vault Salon & Spa

Taz Hair Co.

Rafael Scasserra, Xpression The Salon

Rita Thomas, Il Destino Salon and Spa

Jason Traicheff, Elegance Salon Spa

Three Small Rooms

Derek Wierzbicki, Studio 237 Hair Designs

Klaudia Tracewicz, Taz Hair Co.

Lorraine Wilkins, Enviro Trends

Valentino’s Grande Salon

Lorraine Wilkins, Enviro Trends

Silas Chi Sun Tsang, Blushes I Hair &

Kitty X, Vault Salon & Spa

Day Spa

SESSION HAIRSTYLIST

TEXTURE HAIRSTYLIST

MAKEUP ARTIST

MEN’S HAIRSTYLIST

Tania Becker, Moods Hair Salon

Jeffrey Altenburg, Shampoo Planet

C.B. Buzzanga, Philosophies

Darrelle Clancy, Zazou Salon and Spa

Louis Hechter, Orbite Coupe – Beauté

Véronique Beaupré, Salon Pure

Mélanie Bélanger, Character Salon

Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co.

Miranda Fox, Three Small Rooms

Giancarlo Intini, Ford

Rasa Jurenas, BesSpa

Cheryl Gushue, Taz Hair Co.

Phillip Elliott, Diva Salon & Spa

Eva Molenda, Taz Hair Co.

Giancarlo Intini, Ford

Lizanne Laurin, Vault Salon & Spa

Tanya Pensack, Vault Salon & Spa

Alexandre Lajoie, d... Coiffure

Sandro Zamparini, Pop Design Salon

Lisa Sallabank, Entrenous

Vittorio Masecchia, Freelance

Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co.

Nicole Porodo, Carrie’L Salon & Spa

and Spa Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co.

Salon & Spa

Hair Studio

Jocelyn Closas, Vault Salon & Spa Timothy Day Howard, Sound Salon Spa Marie-Josée Dupuis, Escompte-Coiffe Mike Insalaco, Hot Heads Salon Jimmy Lapointe, Axis Salon Andrew Ly, Salon Pure

Clarissa Pupo, Toni & Guy

Paul Pereira, Now Salon

Eve Parr, Studio 157

Jane Tecson, Vault Salon & Spa

Francesco Ramirez, Salon Pure

Stacey Staley, Blonde

Rudy Pignataro, Salon G & A Inc.

Kitty X, Vault Salon & Spa

Richard St. Laurent, Salon Inpure

Dennis Voltan, Salon Inpure

S U B S C R I B E T O O U R E - N E W S L E T T E R AT SALON52.CA AND BE THE FIRST TO KNOW THE CONTESSA 19 FINALISTS.

70

salon > october 07

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Photos Contessa 18, From top Hair Frank Dicintio Makeup Giancarlo Intini Photo Babak; Nails Jennifer Bennett Makeup Veronica B. Chu Photo Doug McMillan Photos Contessa 18, Hair Frank Dicintio Makeup Giancarlo Intini Photo Babak; Hair Jagoda Hall Makeup Maria Arnos Bikas Photo Paula Tizzard

John Graham, Vault Salon & Spa


SEMI-FINALISTS AVANT GARDE HAIRSTYLIST

STUDENT/APPRENTICE

Martin Alarie, Salon Pure

Viz Cabrera, Vault Salon & Spa

Chartier Christian, d... Coiffure

Jillian Clapham, Vault Salon & Spa

Yves Houde, L’Atelier Méga Coiffure

Aimee Cox, Moods Hair Salon

Lori Kilby, Salon Eskada

Graciela Fortunato, Salon G & A Inc.

Astin Mak, Moods Hair Salon Leica Mathieu Desroches, Salon Pure Eva Molenda, Taz Hair Co. Somaly Sor, Institut Lise Watier Kera Spencer Michael’s Hair Body Mind Jason Traicheff, Elegance Salon Spa

Lawna Gorham, MC College Anna Kufrejska, Deeva Hair Alejandra Little, Angles Hair Design Patrick McKenzie, Now Salon Paula Nevin, Xpression The Salon Kelsey Storey, Zazou Salon and Spa

Alexandera Brown, Richard S. Ego Hair Design

Jennifer Bennett, Hair Factory Nicky Deck, Sol-A-Tude Salon and Studio Kali Howden, At Your Fingertips

Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co. Jocelyn Closas, Vault Salon & Spa

J. Darlene Johnston, Pampered and Polished Spa

Kozeta Izeti, Taz Hair Co.

Jennifer Mather, Polished Nail Design

Lisa McAuliffe, Salon Afif

Glenna Morris, Stylz Hair Studio

Rudy Pignataro, Salon G & A Inc. Ara Sassoonian, Salon Pure Shannon Simmonds, On the Fringe

Melissa Zaran, Rumors Hair Studio NAIL ART TECHNICIAN Jessica Marie Ellison, Yorkville School of

Hair Design Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon & Spa Jane Tecson, Vault Salon & Spa NEWCOMER HAIRSTYLIST Corin Berry, Ricci Hair Co. Amélie Brideau, Continental Coiffure Elle et Lui

Paul Pereira, Now Salon

Edwin Johnston, The Cutting Room

Mirella Rota Sementilli, Salon Shampoo

Dana Lyseng, Supernova The Salon

George Tsinokas, Valentino’s Grande Salon

Natalia Petcu, Moods Hair Salon

Lorraine Wilkins, Enviro Trends

Kelley Schedewitz, Moods Hair Salon Shannon Simmonds, On the Fringe Hair Design

Makeup and Esthetics Jennifer Mather, Polished Nail Design INTERIOR DESIGN

QUEBEC HAIRSTYLIST

Chad Taylor, Moods Hair Salon

Virginie Beauparlant, Continental

ALBERTA HAIRSTYLIST

Véronique Beaupré, Salon Pure

Julie Andriachuk, Julie’s Hair Studio

Amélie Brideau, Continental Coiffure Elle

Coiffure Elle et Lui

Corin Berry, Ricci Hair Co. NAIL ENHANCEMENT ARTIST

MULTICULTURAL HAIRSTYLIST

Shayne Harrison, Exist Hairworx

et Lui

Melissa Beyer, Verve Salon and Spa

Marie-Josée Dupuis, Escompte-Coiffe

Jen Chivers, Elysium Hair Body Spirit

Cinthia Gauthier, Cynaika.studio

John Jen Hoe Chong, Ricci Hair Co.

Isabelle Lachance, Oblic Salon Spa Urbain

Jeff Louis, Elysium Hair Body Spirit

Jean-Sébastien Lacombe, Studio Bob & Pine

Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co.

Eve Parr, Studio 157

Jessica Robertson, Pure Elements Hair

Sophie Taing, Continental Coiffure Elle et Lui

& Body Alann Sluser, Ricci Hair Co. Kelsey Yule, Raw Concepts Studio

Gilbert Thibodeau, Coiffure La Nuque ATLANTIC HAIRSTYLIST

SASKATCHEWAN/MANITOBA

Dustin Green, Studio Maxx

HAIRSTYLIST

Cindy Hudson, Hair Factory

Marc Charbonneau, Vault Salon & Spa

Chrissy Marr, Hair Artistic & Laser Clinic

Jocelyn Closas, Vault Salon & Spa

Karen Melay, Hair Factory

John Graham, Vault Salon & Spa

Maxine Seymour, Studio Maxx

Becky Kooting, Vault Salon & Spa

Shelley Simms, Hair Factory

Lizanne Laurin, Vault Salon & Spa

Chelsea Sutherland, Hair Factory

Axcess Salon + Spa

Janet Lund, Rituals in Hair & Skin

Cataldo Hair Design Ltd.

Mona Moore, Vault Salon & Spa

Colibri Sante & Beaute

Tanya Pensack, Vault Salon & Spa

Continental Coiffure

Jocelyn Closas, Vault Salon & Spa

Jane Tecson, Vault Salon & Spa

Influence Salon

Kitty X, Vault Salon & Spa

Sarah Mackay, Salon Eskada

Michael Kluthe Salon

Angelina Musto, Vault Salon & Spa

Salon Montage & Day Lounge

Michelle Oliver, Holtz Spa

Spyce Spa & Hair Studio

COMMUNITY SERVICE AWARD Albert Snow Hair Design Group AXIS Hair Salons Inc. Civello Oakville

ONTARIO HAIRSTYLIST Erin Fernandes, Eden Salon

Civello Queen St. Eccotique Spa & Salon

Marc Galati, Headlines Salon & Spa

Headlines Salon & Spa

Rasa Jurenas, BesSpa

Megahair Salon

Lance Blanchette, The Lounge Hair Studio

Lisa McAuliffe, Salon Afif

Rituals in Hair and Skin

Liz Colley, Richard Jeha Hair Company

Suzanne Martin, Three Small Rooms

Tangles Hair Salon

Christopher Deagle, Moods Hair Salon

Eva Molenda, Taz Hair Co.

Zennkai Salon

Rosina Polsinelli, Cucci’s Hair Salon Christie Roth, Hot Heads Salon

BRITISH COLUMBIA HAIRSTYLIST

Kera Spencer, Michael’s Hair Body Mind Jane Tecson, Vault Salon & Spa

CONTESSA 19 THE CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR AWARDS

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october 07 < salon

71


FUTURE

presents

TA L E N T

CONTESSA

ART

ENGAGING

P R O V O C AT I V E

C O N V E R S AT I O N S W I T H . . .

COLOUR

INSPIRING

I N S P I R AT I O N DESIGN

A N NA PACI TTO- M ERLO

RAY CI VELLO

E X P L O R E T O P I C S T H AT W I L L S H A P E T H E F U T U R E O F O U R I N D U S T R Y

AT T H E B E R K E L E Y C H U R C H 6 1 5 Q U E E N S T R E E T E A S T T O R O N T O , O N

(Tickets include lunch)

(Contessa Gala + Contessa Unplugged) $205 before October 11th $220 before October 25th $245 until Contessa event night

*PRICES SUBJECT TO GST

COLOUR

SPECIAL CONTESSA COMBO PRICE

$85.00

ART

CONTESSA UNPLUGGED

TA L E N T

TICKETS ON SALE SEPTEMBER 12 TH TO ORDER CALL: 416.869.3131 EXT 119

FUTURE

M O N D AY N O V E M B E R 5 TH, 2 0 0 7 11:00A.M.

C R E AT I V I T Y

R O B E RT L O B E T TA


PROFILE

KellyHunter Kelly Competitive stylist challenges Prairie stigma

HAIR KELLY HUNTER PHOTOS SEBASTIAN CIMETTA CONTESSA 18

By Kim Hughes

K

artistic team—is a ubiquitous presence on the competition circuit.

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elly Hunter allows a wry chuckle when asked about the notorious Winnipeg Divide. “It’s true,” she confirms. “People either love the city or can’t wait to leave.” That geographic truism makes the ’Peg one of the quirkiest hubs on the Prairies. And it explains why Hunter—a renowned stylist, owner of Winnipeg’s Salon Venator and an active member of the Joico

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PROFILE

“When I first went into hair, it was with the express purpose of not being just a hairdresser.” A naturalized Manitoban, Hunter falls squarely on the yea side of the Divide. She knows the province has piles of talent, and if there’s one thing that drives her nuts, it’s a lack of recognition on that point. That and the proverbial exodus of gifted stylists to acknowledged beauty biz destinations like Toronto, Montreal and beyond. Hunter’s appetite for competing, and her penchant for winning (including various Contessas dating back several years), helps steer the spotlight west. And it underscores a key career objective. “My goal is to have a training academy for competitions right here. It would be great to keep the talent here, really make the Prairies a destination and get more Manitobans into national competitions. “We need more live competitions in general in Canada,” she continues, reflecting on her eye-opening experience at the OMC HairWorld Championships in 2000, which Hunter attended in Berlin. “In Europe there are competitions almost every month, and people travel back and forth to attend them and hone their skills. You can’t be competitive at that level unless you’re doing it all the time.” Hunter’s journey from her Saskatchewan birthplace to two national awards in one weekend last April, including the ABA Toronto Canadian Championship, was anything but predictable. Business runs in the family—dad Richard is a banker, mom Evelyn is an accountant, brother Keith is an MBA—yet Hunter entered the University of Manitoba in 1988 intending to be a physical education teacher. But, she says, “I found it a little less than creative. I had always been doing hair and makeup, and that interested me. So I finished my first year of university and decided to take a year off.

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“I immediately started into hairdressing, and I remember my dad saying, ‘Hairdressing?’ But he was supportive and said, ‘Well, whatever you do, do it well.” So I focused on it and never looked back.” Richard Hunter’s business savvy assisted his daughter as she crafted a business plan for her salon. “He definitely brought me down to earth and made me crunch numbers.” As for her striking artistry with hair—Hunter favours geometric shapes and bold colours—the genial stylist and mother of two credits both her association with Joico and her classical sensibility shot through with a dash of flash. “We train twice a year. Sue Pemberton and Damien Carney (Joico artistic directors) are amazing, and that rubs off. Plus, I’m a big consumer of fashion magazines, trends and the like. “I would describe my style as clean... with an edge. I like variation on a strong classical foundation. It’s much like Damien Carney who builds on his London training and the influence of people like Trevor Sorbie. He makes these wild, edgy styles that are rooted in classical looks. I’m the same behind the chair with my clients. “When I first went into hair, it was with the express purpose of not being just a hairdresser,” Hunter says, deliberately name-checking the Vivienne Mackinder series; Hunter is a fan. “I always wanted to be the best I could be and to get my name out there. “There’s so much more to being a hairstylist than just cutting hair. That’s part of what I love about the industry and why I love competing and also travelling and doing platform work. I couldn’t just work behind the chair. It would be too boring. I need the creativity of the competitions to keep me going.” S

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INTERIORS

One-of-a-Kind

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salon > october 07

FRED. is three in one! by Colette Wright

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Name of Salon: Address: Owner: Opened: Size: Number of Staff: Breakdown:

FRED. 2606 Agricola St, Halifax NS Fred Connors September 23, 2004 6,000 sq. ft. 8 6 cutting; 2 colour stations; 2 treatment rooms Interior Designer: Fred Connors Furniture & Equipment: NP Group / Miles van der Rohe Lighting Designer: Poul Christiansen_le Klint Hanging Light Retail Hair: MOP, KMS, Goldwell Retail Spa: FRED. face cosmetics; Dr. Renaud; Gehwol; Essie Phone: 902.423.5400 Hours of Operation: Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday 10 a.m. to 6 p.m., Thursday 10 a.m. to 7 p.m., Saturday 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Website:

www.fredsalon.ca

PHOTOS ANDREA CAMPBELL AND MARVIN MOORE

T

he title perfectly describes Fred Connors. Mention his name in Halifax’s trendy north-end district and you might hear “re-inventor” or“trailblazer” Connors’s unique combination of a hair salon, café and art gallery under one roof has literally turned heads since it opened a year after Hurricane Juan completely destroyed his downtown salon, Treka. “I wanted to relocate and bought an abandoned bank building on the corner of a busy intersection.” Connors admits he was moved by its mid-century architecture, which inspired him to uphold its look inside the salon. He tore down the interior walls, painted it white and was left with an incredible amount of space. Connors claims his open concept of 6,000 square feet with 20foot-high ceilings gives a calming effect but also offers the luxury of convenience. “Where else can you get a haircut, bite into a mouth-watering chocolate crepe, sip a cappuccino and be emotionally charged by works of art?” The design is very simple, with its white leather chairs and freestanding mirrors. With no shelving units nearby, stylists use chrome trolleys to store product and use the electrical outlets on the walls and floor to plug in equipment and tools. Beams of natural light glisten through the original 5-by-9-foot windows that display bold greenery, Connors’s own floral creations. Behind the wooden reception wall is the shampoo and colour area. Contrasting black furniture shows off a clean, stainless steel counter top with elegant glass lit cabinetry to hide product and towels. A few steps from the salon is the Whet Café, offering fresh, high-quality gourmet servings of house-made salads, panini, soups and luscious miniature cupcakes to “whet” everyone’s appetite. The high wood-panel backdrop featuring stainless steel appliances and dinnerware is a nice contrast to the café’s white and chrome seating area. The fully licensed café has become a hot spot for culinary lovers thanks to manager Joel Flewelling. Step into the washroom and Connors surprises you with a bright shock of fuchsia colour. “Clients don’t expect it, but with a different look I can still make it a luxurious experience.” He refers to the tranquil sound of water flowing over the river rock placed in a porcelain sink. Another unique addition to FRED. is the art gallery featuring $1,500 to $20,000 creations from across the country. Connors explains that only one artist gets the opportunity to feature his or her work for a month’s time. This means the interior is always changing. Connors says, “Clients never get bored of seeing the same art on my walls.” He also reveals that he has a long list of artists wanting to hang their pieces. Overhead hang approximately 80 diffused lights 18 inches in diameter. Connors says during evening parties or special events the lights radiate a soft glow complementing the affair. S

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CONTESSA 19 GET YOUR TICKETS NOW CALL 416.869.3131 ext. 119

NOVEMBER 4, 2007 THE METRO TORONTO CONVENTION CENTRE C O C K TA I L S 5 : 0 0 P M | D I N N E R 7 : 0 0 P M $140* before October 11, 2007

$155* before October 25, 2007

$180* until event night *PRICES SUBJECT TO GST

For more information including hotel rates and Contessa Unplugged Combo tickets go to SALON52.CA

Gold sponsors

Silver sponsors


Photos Contessa 18, From top Hair Frank Dicintio Makeup Giancarlo Intini Photo Babak; Nails Jennifer Bennett Makeup Veronica B. Chu Photo Doug McMillan; Hair Frank Dicintio Makeup Giancarlo Intini Photo Babak; Hair Jagoda Hall Makeup Maria Arnos Bikas Photo Paula Tizzard

CONTESSA

THE CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR AWARDS

S E A S 19 O N S


HOT PRODUCTS

10

by Malumir R. Beavis

HOTPICKS 4

2

5 1

MR FIX-IT The cheeky men’s line Woody’s is now available in Canada. It consists of assorted men’s products from shampoo and conditioner to stylers, shaving products and deodorant. Man-friendly packaging and an energizing scent encourage male clients to experience this magnetic line. For more info visit www.woodysgrooming.com.

RIDE THE WAVE Redken’s Curl/Wave collection packs a punch with three new products. Curl Force gives curls bounce and prevents frizz, while Crystal Curls gives a strong framework for medium to course strands. The Ringlet protector conditions hair for defined softness and movement. For more info visit www.redken.ca.

SOLUTIONS-FOCUSED The Life Solutions line by Alterna now boasts new Clarifying Shampoo and Scalp Therapy Shampoo. The Clarifying Shampoo can be used weekly to cleanse tresses of pollutants, chlorine and product buildup. Scalp Therapy Shampoo soothes sensitive skin while improving circulation for increased overall hair health. For more info visit www.4alterna.com.

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PHOTOS MICHAEL GRAYDON

TAIL ENDS New to Joico’s K-PAK family is the Split End Mender, a lightweight sealer that mends split ends and leaves hair smooth and shiny. Featuring Dual-Polymer Hair Bonding technology, the Mender adheres to split tips, fusing them together and creating a durable bond. For more info visit www.joico.com.

AGE, INTERRUPTED Turn back time with L’Oréal Professionnel’s Age Densiforce shampoo, designed to revive dull hair. The Omega 6 formula boosts volume and delivers luminosity, unveiling more youthful, bouncy locks and warm, spicy aroma. For more info visit www. lorealprofessionnel.com.

3



HOT PRODUCTS

9 6

10

7

8 MAKE ME OVER After 10 years in business, Eufora has revamped its image. A major part of this makeover includes Eufora’s new packaging and logo—cleaner and simpler representations of the brand. Still basing its formula on the power of aloe vera, Eurofa products include shampoos, conditioners, stylers and finishers. For more info visit www.eufora.net.

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STAR LIGHT, STAR BRIGHT Farouk BioSilk introduces colour-correcting Silver Lights shampoo and conditioner for blonde and grey hair. The shampoo and conditioner neutralize yellow tones, prevent brassiness and brighten dull strands for luxuriously creamy light-hued locks. For more info visit www.farouk.com.

SHINE ON The new Superwear Crème Shadows from Your Name Professional Brands deliver lustre and shine in a creaseless, smudge-free formula. Available in six shades, the shadows boast extra-long staying power thanks to a unique polymer technology. Perfect for the demands of the busy holiday season. For more info visit www.yournamepro.com.

LATEST INNOVATION Indola has introduced three new Innova styling products: Strong Volume Cream, Strong Fibre Gum and Smooth Serum. Designed to provide extra volume to limp hair, the Strong Volume Cream boosts moisture and shine. The Fibre Gum is ideal for clients with shorter, cropped cuts, while the Smooth Serum tames frizz-prone locks. For more infor visit www.indola.com.

PUMPED UP Sexy Hair’s new So Pumped Volumizing Mist is an instant volume and hold spray for megawatt voluminous styles. Infused with grapefruit, lychee and white tea, So Pumped leaves hair with a natural, soft look that lasts all day and doesn’t weight hair down. For more info visit www.sexyhair.com. S

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EVENTS ITA TANNING WORLD EXPO

CONTESSA UNPLUGGED

October 11—14, 2007 Gaylord Opryland Resort & Convention Center; Nashville, Tennessee Info: www.theita.com

November 5, 2007 Berkeley Church; Toronto Info: www. salon52.ca

TORONTO FASHION FOCUS SALON INTERNATIONAL October 13—15, 2007 ExCeL Docklands; London, England Info: www.salonexhibitions.co.uk

Presented by Jaguar Beauty Systems November 10—11, 2007 Metro Toronto Convention Centre (South Building); Toronto, Ontario Info: www.beauticiansbeautysystems.com

MID-AMERICAN BEAUTY October 14—15, 2007 Greater Columbus Convention Center; Columbus, Ohio Info: www. premiereshows.com

ISPA CONFERENCE & EXPO November 12—15, 2007 Gaylord Palms Resort & Convention Center; Kissimmee, Florida Info: www.experienceispa.com

ABA MONCTON October 21—22, 2007 Coliseum Agrena Complex; Moncton, Info: www.abacanada.com

ESTHÉTIQUE SPA INTERNATIONAL MEDICAL SPA & ESTHETICS October 27—28, 2007 Metro Toronto Convention Centre (North Building); Toronto, Ontario www.spa-show.com

19TH ANNUAL CONTESSA AWARDS November 4, 2007 Metro Toronto Convention Centre (South Building); Toronto Info: www.salon52.ca

HAIR

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Date & Location TBA Info: www.cnoma.com

EXCEPTIONAIL DAY Montreal, Date & Location TBA Info: www.exceptionail.ca

CANADIAN MAKEUP SHOW November 10—11, 2007 Kool Haus, Toronto Info: www.canadianmakeupshow.com

GOLDWELL EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS

SCHWARZKOPF EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 905.625.7200, or

Info: 877.670.6767

call your local Schwarzkopf distributor

KMS EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS

TIGI EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS

Info: 877.670.6767

Info: 800.361.6607

AVEDA EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.689.1066 ext.7892

URBAN BEAUTY SYSTEMS EDUCATIONAL programs for

CHI EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS

Euronatural Hair Extensions; In-salon classes available Info: 866.731.4327

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CNOMA, CANADIAN NETWORK OF MAKEUP Artists show & awards

Info: 800.361.6607

NAILS AND ESTHETICS LCN EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS

� ��� �� � ����� �� ��� �� �� ���� ��� �� ����� ��� �� ���� ��� �� �� � �� � �������� ��� �� �������� ���� ���� � ���������� ���

GREAT LENGTHS EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS

� ��� ��� �� ����� ��� �� �� �� ��� ��� ��� ���� � ����� � ��� ��� �� ����� �� �� � ������� ���� � ���� ����� ��

Info: www.greatlenghts.net

Visit www.lcn.ca or call 800.557.3223 for full listings.

L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

CND EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS

educational programs Info: 800.361.1861

Info: call your local CND distributor

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salon > october 07

MATRIX EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS

STAR NAIL EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS

Info: 888.422.6879

Info: 800.661.9997

REDKEN EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS

AVEDA EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS

Info: 866.9.REDKEN

Info: 800.689.1066 ext.7892 w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a


all@star

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SEPTEMBER - OCTOBER ’07 SPECIALS

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Ultimate Lyte’s exclusive uv chemistry creates strong, durable nails that never cloud or yellow—guaranteed, and because Ultimate Lyte is odourless and produces 90% less filing dust than traditional acrylics, you and your clients can enjoy a healthier and safer salon environment.

Permanent French Edging... ••strengthens natural nails • 3 different french looks • lasts up to 3 weeks • no chipping or peeling

Permanent French Edging Kit contains: 1/2 oz. Bright White Edging, 1/2 oz. Light Pink Edging, 1/2 oz. Shimmer Edging, 1/2 oz. UV Gel Seal, Dappen Dish, Edging Brush, Instructions.

Purchase a Natural Nail Kapping Kit for $79.95 and receive a Permanent French Edging Kit FREE (a $24.95 value free!) #865-N-Deal salon: $79.95 (value $104.90)

REQUIRES UV LAMP - NOT INCLUDED. KIT CONTAINS: 2 oz. Ultimate Lyte Monomer, 1/2 oz. White Silica Powder, 1/2 oz. Clear Silica Powder, 1/2 oz. Pink Silica Powder, Ultimate Sculptor Kolinsky Brush, Primer Pen, 20 pk. French Look Ultra White Tips, 25 Rectangular Nail Forms plus Professional Systems Technique tape and instruction booklet.

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deep dish! Purchase a Deep Dish Manicure Bowl for the regular price of $2.95 and get a second bowl FREE! ••deep deep dish for long nails • acetone proof

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© 2007 Star Nail Canada Star Nail is a registered Canadian trademark of 407245 Alberta Ltd.


SCOOP

Coming Soon Retro Chic By Joshua will be hitting salons sometime soon. Created by Houston, Texas-based hairstylist Joshua Bernard, the Retro Chic wet and styling line features encapsulated antioxidants, which give products a longer shelf life once they have been opened. Stay tuned for more or call 832.794.3020.

TWO IN A ROW Schwarzkopf Canada was recently awarded its second consecutive Country of the Year Award. Presented by Schwarzkopf Professional’s international headquarters for 2005 and 2006, these trophies represent excellence in sales achievement, in profit achievement and spirit. This is the first time an SKP national team has taken home the aw award ard twi twice in a row.

RELOCATION NOTICE Intercosmetics, ntercosmetics, distributor of lines like RVB and SwissMed, has as moved its head office to a bigger and better facility at 1035 Stacey Court Cou in Mississauga, uga, Ontario. Visit www.intercosmetics.ca

Don’t Miss…

Cuccio Naturalé’s Tony Cuccio will be presenting Spark, Twelve Secrets to Creating Wealth and Success and the Key to Building a Profitable Salon Business at the Metro Toronto Convention Centre during BSG’s Fashion Focus on Sunday November 11, from 1 to 2:30 p.m. For more info, call 800.661.9997.

En Rose Picasso’s Salon Spa, a three-salon company in Ontario’s Niagara region, has established the Hernder Picasso’s Foundation, a charitable organization in partnership with Hernder Estate Wines, Haskell Photography, Sullivan Mahoney Barristers & Solicitors and Deloitte financial advisory. The goal of this new partnership is to raise funds for a new cancer centre in the region. Recently, the foundation hosted the second annual Soiree Makeover Gala at the Hernder Estate Winery in St. Catherine’s, Ontario. A makeover-contestslash-gala, the event featured its own signature wine specifically developed for the event, a VQA approved rosé titled “Pink” from Hernder Estate Wines. Proceeds from the sale of “Pink” were also donated to the cause. For more info, visit www. www.picassossalonspa.com.

86

salon > october 07

MOON MAN Scott Moon has been appointed director of marketing for Redken Canada. Moon has been a member of the L’Oréal team for over six years.

INTERNATIONAL PRESS

The AIPP (International Professional Press Association), an organization of 60 professional hair magazines from 29 countries, has announced the finalists in its annual photo-based competition. Two Canadians, Toronto’s Jason Kearns of Kearns-Davidson Hair & Skin Care (pictured above) and Montreal’s Mood by Pure, are among the 2007-2008 finalists. Visit www. aipp.net for more. w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a


2007

CANADA

SEPTEMBER-OCTOBER SALON PROMOTIONS

CANADIAN EXCLUSIVE! SAVE $25.00! All Purpose Wax & Wax Warmer Combo! Features the world’s #1 wax formula and our best-selling, multi-purpose, worry-free heater!

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ve a S 0% 3 The quickest, most sanitary and most economical way to wax!!! A complete kit featuring both the Original GiGi ax formula and GiGi T Tea Tree Crème Honee Wax Wax formula in a roll-on!

$129.95 Item # 0272

Reg. $189.00

YOUR CHOICE – SELECTED WAXES ON DEAL!

BUY 2 – GET 1 FREE! Brazilian Body Hard Wax Item # 0899, Hard Wax with Floral Extracts Item # 0888, Tree Créme Wax Item # 0240, and Milk Chocolate Créme W Wax Item # 0251, Tea T Azulene W Wax Item # 0345

Natural Muslin Rolls 40 yds

Item # 0876

Spiced Pumpkin

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YOUR CHOICE Item # 0877

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Reg. $36.95

2/$9.00 Reg. $4.95 each

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Item # 0620

Reg. $15.99

3/$34.50

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o c t o b e r ’0 7

CO MPLET E C O L L E C T I O N S

E V E NT CO V E R AG E

> SCHWA RZ KOPF P ROFESSIONAL

> SAL ON I NT ERNAT I ONAL > ABA C AL GARY > ABA M ONC T ON

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ESSENTIALLY TABOO From July 29 to August 2, Schwarzkopf held its National Technical and Essential Looks Conference at Taboo Resort in Muskoka, Ontario. The conference kicked off on Sunday with a presentation of Schwarzkopf’s Essential Looks 2:2007, Modern Life Collection as well an address from Rainer Tschersig, president of international business for Schwarzkopf Professional. Sunday wrapped up with a boat cruise and dinner on Lake Muskoka aboard the Segwun, North America’s oldest operating steam ship, with live music and dancing for the over 50 attendees.

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PAUL MITCHELL SIGNATURE GATHERING From July 8 to 10, over 2,000 stylists, salon owners and hair industry insiders attended the John Paul Mitchell Systems Signature Gathering in Las Vegas. Attendees were treated to an inspirational welcome by John Paul DeJoria, CEO of JPMS, and indulged in cutting-edge classes by the who’s who at JPMS, including Takashi Kitamura, Scott Cole, Linda Yodice and Robert Cromeans. To close, Cromeans’s rain-themed segment dazzled in a downpour of style and flair.

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On June 27 Vidal Sassoon Salon in Toronto hosted a media day to introduce the latest collection from Sassoon’s for autumn/winter 2007, Chic Sauvage. Local models paraded and posed as creative director Lorraine McAndrew and regional colour director John Beeson explained the cut and colour techniques that distinguish the collection. Beeson says, “Colour is all geometry this season with lustrous woody browns with lots of richness and warmth as well as icy chilled champagne blondes and flame coloured redheads.” McAndrew says, “Hair is allowed to move effortlessly in looks that are both geometric and layered.” w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a


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HOUSTON HUDDLE

On August 9 and 10, Farouk distributors from across the globe gathered in Houston to hear the latest news on new products and launches for the coming year. Global artistic director Woody Michleb presented a new collection for the gathering and the relaunch of the Sunglitz colour lightening system.

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WAHL’S TATTOO CLASS Instructed by Wahl’s European artistic team leaders, the company’s intensive two-day hair tattoo seminar took place in Toronto this past summer. Attendees included members of Wahl’s Canadian educational team from across the country.

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A.I.I. China Glaze pg 59 ....................................800-621-9585 ........................ www.chinaglaze.com

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A.I.I. IBD pg 75 .................................................800-621-9585 ........................ www.aiibeauty.com

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A.I.I. Gigi pg 87 .................................................800-621-9585 ........................ www.ibdbeauty.com Aveda Green Leadership pg 4-5 .......................800-328-0849 ........................ www.aveda.com Bain De Terre Bioceuticals pg 27 .....................800-267-4676 ........................ www.isohair.ca Belmonda Beauty Academy pg 18 ....................866-647-4100 ........................ www.belmonda.com Breckles Insurance pg 92 .................................888-203-8122 ........................ www.breckles.com BSG Fashion Focus pg 68 .................................888-241-3330 ........................ www.cosmoprofbeauty.com Calbrook Calgel pg 92 ......................................866-5-CALGEL ...................... www.calbrookcanada.com Canadian Micro Pigmentation pg 81 ................888-737-6268 ........................ www.cdnmicropigmentation.com CND pg 13 .........................................................800-833-NAIL ....................... www.cnd.com Contessa 19 pg 78-79 .......................................800-720-6665 ........................ www.salon52.ca Contessa Unplugged pg 72 ...............................800-720-6665 ........................ www.salon52.ca

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Dennis Bernard Smart Start pg 46 ...................800-541-5456 ........................ www.DennisBernard.com

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DreamCatchers pg 38-39 .................................800-200-HAIR ....................... www.dreamcatchers.com

Dikson Premium Color pg 29 ...........................800-334-8240 ........................ www.diksonservice.com

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Essie Sheer Indulgence pg 33 ..........................800-232-1155 ........................ www.essie.com

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Farouk Breast Cancer Awareness pg 35 .........800-237-9175 ........................ www.farouk.com

ExtensionLocs pg 90 .........................................866-666-3180 ........................ www.extensionlocs.com

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Farouk CHI Nails pg 15 .....................................800-237-9175 ........................ www.farouk.com

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Farouk CHI Products & Tools pg 23 .................800-237-9175 ........................ www.farouk.com

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Framar pg 89 ....................................................888-636-4548 ........................ www.foil-it.com

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Fudge Headpaint pg 19 .....................................888-383-4387 ........................ www.fudge.com Global Best pg 93 ..............................................866-468-2205 ........................ www.globalbestbeauty.com Great Lengths pg 31 ........................................800-461-9302 ........................ www.hscinternational.com Hair-Brain.com pg 65 ...................................................................................... www.hair-brain.com International Beauty Sevices pg 84 ..................800-642-3818 ISO Maintamer pg 21 ........................................800-267-4676 ........................ www.isohair.ca Joico K-Pak Split End Mender pg 9 ..................800-267-4676 ........................ www.joico.com K.U.M pg 24 .......................................................866-330-8675 ........................ www.kumhaircare.com L’ANZA Healing Color pg 55 ..............................800-423-0307 ........................ www.lanza.com La Biosthetique Paris pg 25 .............................800-661-1424 ........................ www.labiosthetique.com Lanvain pg 63 ....................................................800-361-2586 ........................ www.lanvain.com LCN Royal Fantasy pg 69 ..................................888-422-6677 ........................ www.lcn.ca LKM Beauty International pg 90 .......................877-764-4547 ........................ www.lkmbeauty.com Matrix Biolage scalptherapié pg 17..................888-422-6879 ........................ www.matrix.com

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NexGen Lasers pg 83 ........................................888-527-3711 ........................ www.nexgenlasers.com

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NP Group pg 61 .................................................800-267-4247 ........................ www.npgroup.ca

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Schwarzkopf clubSKP pg 12 .............................800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca

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OPI Pink of Hearts pg 11...................................800-341-9999 ........................ www.opi.com Quantum FixMen pg 100 ...................................800-267-4676 ........................ www.piidea.on.ca Redken All Soft pg 2-3 ......................................866-9REDKEN....................... www.redken.ca Salon52 pg 88....................................................800-720-6665 ........................ www.salon52.ca Schwarzkopf Igoral Royal pg 6-7......................800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.com Schwarzkopf Indola pg 43.................................800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.com SST Signature Series pg 51 ..............................800-667-2566 Star Nail pg 85 ..................................................877-852-STAR ....................... www.starnailcanada.com Star Nail Cuccio Naturalé pg 67 .......................877-852-STAR ....................... www.cuccio.com Trade Secrets / Glamour Secrets pg 64 ...........888-264-7444 ........................ www.tradesecrets.ca Ultra Hair Care pg 22 ........................................800-328-3006 ........................ www.dencoultra.com Uvalux Australian Gold pg 91 ..........................800-661-6292 ........................ www.uvalux.com Uvalux Tanning Beds pg 99...............................800-661-6292 ........................ www.uvalux.com w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a


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On June 27, 21 students and three teachers from Martingrove Collegiate in Toronto descended on Taz Hair Co. to have their pony tails clipped and donated to the Hair for Kids program and Eva & Co. Wigs through the Canadian Cancer Society’s donation programs. Frank and Carol Cini and all the gang from Taz performed the service free of charge and Subway Sandwiches donated food for everyone.

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NAHA 18 The Professional Beauty Association (PBA), presenter of the North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA), announced the winners of NAHA 18 on July 16 in Las Vegas, Nevada. Among the celebrated winners, Pure from Montreal won Salon Team of the Year. w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

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SALON MAGAZINE English edition, USPS 015-615 is published monthly, except for February, June, August and December by SALON COMMUNICATIONS INC. 365 Bloor Street East, Suite 1902, Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3L4, Canada. US office of publication: 2221 Niagara Falls Blvd, Niagara Falls, NY 14304-5709. Periodicals Postage Paid at Niagara Falls, NY, US postmaster: Send address changes to Salon Magazine, PO Box 1068, Niagara Falls, NY 14304. ISSN 1489-7059 Volume 16 Issue 13

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LAST WORD

A WHITER SHADE OF PALE

L

ooking around my salon the other day at the wonderfully creative highlighting and colouring techniques I saw, I couldn’t help thinking about the days long ago when I entered this trade. We may have had electricity and indoor toilets back then (actually not all Brits had the latter, believe it or not), but hair-colouring products were nowhere near as sophisticated as they are now, especially bleach. As an inexperienced apprentice, I well remember my introduction to the scary power of powder bleach. The colour technician in the high-end salon told me to shampoo a client who had just been super-bleached white. This meant she’d been put under the dryer to speed up the process. Very dangerous. Her hair had turned to mush and came away in my hands, leaving quite a bit of it in the sink. Thus I learned about the term “chemical haircut.” That was 1959 (I told you it was a long time ago), but nearly 10 years later not much had changed. In 1968 The Art and Craft of Hairdressing warned: “Unfortunately… the repeated use of strong bleaches, unless they are carefully applied, may cause deterioration of the hair up to breakage.” When it came to bleaching dark hair, the book continued, “A hairdresser should very seriously consider the possibilities of success before embarking on such jobs.” A less dramatic risk came with that awful, torturous, archaic device the highlighting cap, which I believe is still in use. Clients have told me it feels like having a tightly fitting condom on their head, and it hurts when the hair is pulled through. I suppose it might be fast, but in my mind there’s nothing creative about squashing hair down and pulling parts of it out with a crochet hook. And just in case your clients wonder if it’s safe to try this device at home, you can direct them to “the mishap of the highlighting cap” on YouTube. Over the centuries, women—and men—have gone to great lengths to lighten their hair. The Elixirs of Nostradamus, one of the successful books put out by the 16th-century prophet and apothecary, includes a recipe for making

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the beard blonde or golden. The book also has several recipes with titles such as How to Introduce Gold Highlights in the Hair. This recipe calls for various plants and herbs to be put into lye made with sieved wood ashes, brought partly to the boil and then strained. “Now take a large earthenware pot and bore 10 to 12 holes in the bottom. Next take equal parts of vine ash and sieved wood ash, shake them into a large wooden vessel or mortar, whichever you think better, moisten them with the said lye, thoroughly pulverize the mixture, take almost a whole day to do this—but make sure that it becomes a bit stiff. Next…” But we’ll leave Nostradamus’s recipe there. I think you get the long and complicated picture. In 18th-century Europe, the “in” colour for hair was white. Enormous white powdered wigs with long ringlets were the rage, often tied back with a black bow for men or decorated with feathers, bows and garlands for women. Some adventurous ladies had mini-gardens or maritime scenes with model ships incorporated into their style, or even mini-bird-cages complete with birds. And we thought the 1980s were excessive. In the hippy days of the 60s, dark-haired girls in North America soaked strands of their hair in lemon juice and sat in the sun to get the look of sunkissed highlights. I couldn’t be happier with today’s creative options for lightening hair. How envious the people of other eras would be of our ability to use Saran wrap or foil and to section hair in slices, weave it or do a freehand baliage. Who knows if blondes have more fun, but we can certainly have a lot of fun creating them. S John Steinberg is the owner of Toronto’s John Steinberg & Associates. He’s currently celebrating 47 years in the beauty business and continues to be one of Canada’s premier style makers. Check out: www.johnsteinberghair.com www. .

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PHOTO BARRIE WENTZELL

by John Steinberg


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