Salon Magazine, November/December 2022

CONTESSA 34 FINALISTS!

THE ART OF FINISHING HAIR

CRAFT CRAFT CRAFT CRAFT CRAFT

As any artist will tell you one’s craft is their journey. A journey of personal and professional growth, of learning, refining, and pushing your boundaries. In Canada, Schwarzkopf Professional ® has been part of the hairdresser’s journey for over 60 years and we will always remain committed to you, your journey, and your craft. So, we are excited to share with you our next steps together.

Effective January 1st, 2023, Schwarzkopf Professional ®, in Ontario and Quebec, will be available to you via our new Schwarzkopf Professional ® direct sales team. Let me share with you the benefits of working with our direct sales team.

CRAFT

By purchasing through the direct sales organization, the salon has direct access to the manufacturer. That means more resources for you to grow your business, including:

• Full access to all educational programs and tools

• Best equipped direct sales consultant to work with and train you on the full portfolio offered by Schwarzkopf Professional and Alterna Haircare

• Maximizing the value of our loyalty programs to strengthen the salons business

In addition, Schwarzkopf Professional ® will continue to be available in Ontario and Quebec via an approved distributor store network and in the rest of Canada via approved full-service distributor partners. These channels will play an equally important role as they provide you ongoing support and service for all your product needs.

Our goal is to keep you informed of any updates as we move through this transition. In the interim, we ask our customers in Ontario and Quebec to continue purchasing from their local distributor through the end of the year. Starting November 1st, 2022, those customers can anticipate a phone call or visit from your dedicated sales consultant or an inside sales representative to set up your account and to discuss the transition of sales and deliveries made after January 1, 2023. On behalf of Schwarzkopf Professional® Canada, we thank you for your continued support and business.

John Franco Fortunato

John Fortunato Head of Henkel Beauty Care Hair Professional Canada

@SchwarzkopfCAN

@SchwarzkopfCAN

@SchwarzkopfProfessionalCanada

Schwarzkopf Professional Canada

#SchwarzkopfCAN

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28

FEATURE Next Wave of Talent

From new to excelling artists, learn how these stylists and salon owners got their start in hairdressing and how they’re shaking things up to make their stamp on the industry.

33

FEATURE Crossing the Finish Line

Not sure if you should be spending the extra time on finishing your client’s hair?

Find out why our experts say finishing a hairstyle is so important. Plus, discover their top tips for finishing some of the most popular looks.

38

INSPIRATION Collections

Encarna Moreno & María Gómez; Fellowship Project led by Paul Dennison; Moods Hair Salon; Frank Dicintio; Abbie Johnson; Annabel Payne; Eva González & José Salvador; Shayna & Florian Knittel

56

CONTESSA GALLERY

Julia Ainsley

Discover how this Edmontonbased Emerging Hairstylist finalist used her time off during the pandemic to create her 2022 Contessa collection.

38ENCARNA MORENO & MARÍA GÓMEZ, PELUQUERÍA ENCARNA MORENO, SPAIN

“People who are now entering the world of hairdressing are motivated to learn and do more and aren’t afraid of pushing their limits.”

— KELLY HÉROUX, SALON ESPACE C, BROSSARD, QUE.

FELLOWSHIP PROJECT, LED BY PAUL DENNISON, U.K.

FLOWER, PHOTO: RICHARD MILES

LET’S GET DIGITAL SalonMagazine.ca

Level up your holiday hair game with our howtos, and get inspired by our collection archive! Plus, stay up to date on the hottest industry news, trends and all things Contessa!

WHAT’S NEW Hairlines

Get to know the latest product launches in haircare, styling, colour, nails and more. Plus, learn about in-salon software and technology that can help simplify and streamline your business.

BUSINESS Work in Progress

Are you looking to grow your team and develop new talent? Get expert tips on how you can help them develop their craft and how doing so can help build business in your salon.

INTERIORS Beyond Beautiful

Take a look inside this Regina-based salon that was inspired by its owner’s trip to Australia and discover how she put her own personal spin on the space.

+ Scoop

ANNABEL PAYNE, TONI&GUY, U.K.

PROJECT LED BY PAUL DENNISON,

FRANK DICINTIO, SALON GABOA, WOODBRIDGE, ONT.

HELP WOMEN WITH CANCER FEEL LIKE THEMSELVES AGAIN

HELPING WOMEN WITH CANCER FEEL LIKE THEMSELVES AGAIN

HELPING WOMEN WITH CANCER FEEL LIKE THEMSELVES AGAIN

With 1 in 2 women facing a cancer diagnosis in their lifetime, you can help the women in your life through the Look Good Feel Better workshop.

With 1 in 2 women facing a cancer diagnosis in their lifetime, you can help the women in your life through the Look Good Feel Better workshop.

With 1 in 2 women facing a cancer diagnosis in their lifetime, you can help the women in your life through the Look Good Feel Better workshop.

Our complimentary workshops help women learn to manage the appearance-related impact of cancer treatment. Topics include skincare, cosmetics, hair alternatives and breast care.

Our complimentary workshops help women learn to manage the appearance-related impact of cancer treatment. Topics include skincare, cosmetics, hair alternatives and breast care.

Our complimentary workshops help women learn to manage the appearance-related impact of cancer treatment. Topics include skincare, cosmetics, hair alternatives and breast care.

The small-group format allows for connection and sharing between women going through a similar experience.

Even more, the small-group format allows for connection and sharing between women going through a similar experience.

Even more, the small-group format allows for connection and sharing between women going through a similar experience.

Tell a woman you love about the LGFB supportive care workshop – available online and in-person. For more information, visit lgfb.ca .

Tell a woman you love about the LGFB supportive care workshop – available in-person and online. For more information, visit lgfb.ca .

Tell a woman you love about the LGFB supportive care workshop – available in-person and online. For more information, visit lgfb.ca .

To find out how you can have an impact by partnering with LGFB, contact Dota Crawford at dcrawford@lgfb.ca.

To find out how you can have an impact by partnering with LGFB, contact Claire Sargeant at csargeant@lgfb.ca.

To find out how you can have an impact by partnering with LGFB, contact Dota Crawford at dcrawford@lgfb.ca.

@LGFBCanada | lgfb.ca | 1.800.914.5665

@LGFBCanada | lgfb.ca | 1.800.914.5665

@LGFBCanada | lgfb.ca | 1.800.914.5665

LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER® | REGISTERED CHARITY #13374 0316 RR0001

LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER® | REGISTERED CHARITY #13374 0316 RR0001

Closing the Generational Gap

Is it just me or is it that the older we get, the larger the divide grows with younger generations?

Even as a millennial myself, I feel the divide widening. Aside from simply making me feel “old”, it provides an opportunity to see things from a whole new perspective.

As social media has taught us, trends move quickly in this day and age and younger generations are often the trendsetters. While they often teach us what’s no longer cool, they’re also a great source of inspiration for how to do things more efficiently. After all, they were born in the age of social media and technology.

With that said, infusing new talent into the salon can also be good for business. In addition to contributing fresh ideas to your business, it allows your experienced staff to transition guests to more junior stylists, which in turn can help you grow your clientele and increase revenue. In Work in Progress (pg. 58), we checked in with experts for their tips on how to develop the talents of new stylists.

We also caught up with both emerging and excelling artists in Next Wave of Talent (pg. 28) to find out how they got their start, and how they’ve found their niche in the industry.

Something that both new and experienced stylists have in common are the challenges around finishing a hairstyle. Whether it’s from an inadequate skill set or simply a lack of time, finishing hair is often a lost art in day-to-day salon life. In Crossing the Finish Line (pg. 33), we tackle some of today’s most popular styles with tips and tricks for finishing the looks both effectively and efficiently.

One place you’re sure to find hairstylists flexing their finishing hair prowess is in the entries for the Contessa Awards! The finalists have officially been announced (pg. 57) and we extend a big congratulations to all of them and thank everyone who entered this year. The Contessas are a highlight for our entire team, and seeing the creativity that shines through year after year is truly awe-inspiring.

We can’t wait to celebrate with you all at the Contessa Awards gala! Check out Contessa Countdown (pg. 21) for a sneak peek of what to expect at the show. You won’t want to miss it!

Salon Magazine

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EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Veronica Boodhan veronica@salonmagazine.ca

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Stephanie MacDonald Gallant stephanie@salonmagazine.ca

DIGITAL SPECIALIST Shanice Romelus shanice@salonmagazine.ca

CONTRIBUTORS Sami Chazonoff, Lucy Mazzucco, Corinna Reeves

SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Marc Gadbois marc@salonmagazine.ca

SALES & EDITORIAL COORDINATOR Lauren Farrugia lauren@salonmagazine.ca

PRODUCTION MANAGER Alan Swinton production@salonmagazine.ca

OFFICE MANAGER Cathy Donaghy cathy@salonmagazine.ca

CIRCULATION MANAGER Adrian Holland helpdesk@subscriptions.salon

CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER & PUBLISHER Tom Arkell tom@salonmagazine.ca

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B R AN C H O U T

Help Plan t Ou r Urba n Forest s

It’s Almost Time!

We’re counting down the days until the biggest night in Canadian professional beauty! Do you have your Contessa tickets yet? Visit SalonMagazine.ca to stay up to date on all of this year’s gala info.

Hair Goals

If you’re searching for inspiration, look no further! Check out our archive of editorial collections from all over the world.

Mrs. Claws

In need of nail art inspo this season? We have an archive of celebrity nail art looks that are sure to make your clients shine.

Get your clients glam for the holidays! We have step-by-step details on how to achieve the hottest hair looks of the season.

Get the Scoop

Stay in the loop on all things exciting! Sign up for our newsletter to be the first to hear about industry news, announcements and more.

HOLIDAY HAIR

PHOTOS: HAIR: MARK EUBANKS, MARK CHRISTOPHER SALON, U.S., WARDROBE

STYLING: ROSE SWIFT,

PHOTO: JOHN RAWSON, HAIR: CARALEE PRIDEMORE FOR SAM VILLA, U.S., INSTAGRAM (@ERIERINAILZ)

REFRESH YOUR ROUTINES FOR THE HOLIDAY SEASON WITH THE LATEST LAUNCHES IN STYLING, CARE, COLOUR AND MORE.

Goldwell’s latest editorial collection features some of this season’s hottest colour trends, including colour blocking, shadow roots, rich colour and shiny, healthy hair. From reds and greens to blondes and coppers, this collection emphasizes that hair colour has no boundaries and can be customized to suit every client’s hair type and texture. The brand used its Colorance demi-permanent colour products to create each look, including deep and vibrant red shades on both curly and coily hair. Get motivated to think outside of the box this season and create colour that your clients will love throughout the winter—and beyond.

2-in-1

Treat your client’s hair and skin with Authentic Beauty Concept’s Hand & Hair Light Cream.

Do you ever wish your beauty products were as good at multitasking as you are? Authentic Beauty Concept’s Hand & Hair Light Cream nourishes skin and hair, making it feel soft and supple and helping hair’s manageability. Formulated with Bakuchiol and free of silicones and parabens, the cream quickly absorbs into skin and hair without leaving any residue. Bonus: The tube contains 95 per cent recycled aluminum.

AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT IS OFFERING HAND & HAIR LIGHT CREAM IN ITS 2022 HOLIDAY COLLECTION KIT, WHICH ALSO INCLUDES A CLEANSER AND CONDITIONER FROM ITS CARE RANGES.

Curls and Coils, Rejoice!

Colour your client’s curls without damage with Matrix’s Coil Color.

Powered by Oil Delivery System (ODS) technology and containing more than 60 per cent oils (including coconut oil) to preserve curl definition, this oil-in-cream permanent hair colour lets you colour curls and coils without worrying about damaging or altering your client’s curl pattern. It’s available in 16 cool and warm shades, ranging from dark brown to medium blonde, to protect and evenly saturate your client’s curls. Plus, its formula is ammonia-free and odourless.

➣Cleanse, Condition and Colour

Help your clients maintain their hair colour at home with Goldwell’s new Dualsenses Color Revive Color Giving Shampoo and Conditioner.

DID YOU KNOW?

COCONUT OIL HELPS PROMOTE ELASTICITY WHILE PRESERVING CURL DEFINITION, AND EVEN HELPS PROVIDE DIMENSION ON DARKER BASES.

Designed to complement Goldwell’s colour portfolio, Dualsenses Color Revive Color Giving Shampoo and Conditioner are formulated with the brand’s microPROtec complex, a technology with direct dyes that provides fast and even distribution, and Luminescine, which delivers colour brilliance to transform UV light into shine. Now available in Cool Blonde, Cool Red, Copper and Cool Brunette, the shampoos are ideal for clients who are looking to cleanse their hair while refreshing their colour since they help replace lost dyes with every wash. The conditioners are perfect for clients in need of conditioning and colour. The blonde conditioners have been reformulated with more care ingredients and direct dyes to boost colour and fade gradually.

LEAVE ON FOR TWO TO FIVE MINUTES BEFORE RINSING TO CUSTOMIZE THE LEVEL OF COLOUR INTENSITY.

PHOTO (CLOCKWISE):

AUTHENTIC BEAUTY CONCEPT, REDKEN, BIOLAGE, STMNT GROOMING GOODS, GOLDWELL, MATRIX

Stronger Than Ever All-Day Softness

Nourish and detangle hair with Redken’s All Soft Moisture Restore Leave-In Treatment.

Formulated with hyaluronic acid to retain water and restore hydration, the new All Soft Moisture Restore Leave-In Treatment combats porosity imbalance and protects against chemical treatments and heat damage (up to 450°F). The treatment works to lock in moisture for up to 72 hours, smooth split ends, tame frizz and condition for 10 times smoother hair.

With a goal of fuelling the community with authentic inspiration to motivate salons and barbershops and their clients to make a statement, STMNT Grooming Goods is collaborating with artists across different industries. The brand’s first partnership is with Los Angeles-based street artist Defer to create a limited edition of its All-in-One Cleanser. The new release features Defer’s signature style, which combines graffiti, typography and fine art, in a design that encompasses his personality with the STMNT ethos and makes a bold statement. Best of all, the limited-edition product is sure to look good on your cutting and styling stations this season.

Strengthen fragile hair with Biolage’s Strength Recovery range.

Whether your client’s hair has been weakened by heat styling, colour treatments, overbrushing or even weather, this four-part system is formulated with naturally sourced active vegan squalane, which works as a repairing agent to restore hair fibres and reduce breakage from the inside while increasing shine and softness and protecting hair from the outside.

The Strength Recovery Shampoo gently cleanses away impurities and removes product buildup while increasing softness, and the Strength Recovery Conditioning Cream nourishes hair and reduces breakage by 73 per cent for hair that’s three times smoother. Plus, it contains 97 per cent naturally derived ingredients and is 99 per cent biodegradable! The Strength Recovery Strength Repairing Spray is a lightweight treatment that strengthens hair while protecting it from heat styling damage for 82 per cent more manageable hair. For clients with hair that’s in need of a little extra TLC, the Strength Recovery Deep Treatment Pack can be used weekly for 92 per cent more conditioned hair that’s free of any visible signs of damage.

Hairlines

STATEMENT PIECE

STMNT Grooming Goods partners with street artist Defer to release a special edition of its All-in-One Cleanser.

Mix and Match

➣

Expand your colour repertoire with L’Oréal Professionnel’s Dia Light Boosters.

The six new shades—Blue, Purple, Green, Yellow, Orange and Red—can be added to enrich, refresh or rebalance colour. In addition to toning after a lightening service, the boosters can be used to make warm or cool formulas to adjust or enhance visibility, as well as create pastel cocktails to formulate new and unique shades for your clients. Best of all, the new shades develop in just five to 20 minutes, depending on the service.

T3 Smooth ID and T3 SinglePass Curl

Whether you’re creating classic curls or sleek, straight hair for your clients’ holiday parties this season, discover the benefits of T3’s new Smooth ID and SinglePass Curl irons.

Smooth ID

ThermaTouch technology provides insulation, allowing for greater comfort and control | |

Longer, CeraGloss ceramic plates with a StyleEdge design create a smoother, snag-free experience

SinglePass Curl

Rapid HeatIQ technology features a smart microchip and CeraSync heaters to deliver heat precision for fast results |

HeatID technology, a smart-touch interface with nine heat settings, automatically adjusts to a client’s profile based on their hair texture, length and colour treatments |

|

Ion generator helps minimize frizz while boosting shine for longlasting, frizz-free styles

Refresh mode reduces heat levels for retouches with less heat exposure | |

Nine-foot, 360-degree swivel cord for easy in-salon use and Auto World Voltage for travel

Protective Measures

Repair and protect hair from heat styling damage with #mydentity’s #MyHero Collagen Shield Spray.

Five sizes: 0.5”, 0.75”, 1”, 1.25” and 1.5”

A lightweight design features a cool tip, stand and eight-foot, 360-degree swivel cord for easy in-salon use |

Digital T3 SinglePass technology features a smart microchip that monitors heat fluctuations while delivering even and consistent styling for one-pass results |

CeraGloss ceramic barrel glides smoothly to create shiny, frizz-free curls and waves

Made with ceramic heaters that ensure even heat, no hot spots and long-lasting results

Five digital heat settings

Formulated with hydrolyzed collagen, keramatch V, aloe vera and seaweed extract, this lightweight leave-in protectant spray is ideal for all hair types and provides heat protection up to 450°F. Plus, it increases combability by up to 70 per cent to make it easy to detangle hair without damaging strands while increasing shine.

(CLOCKWISE): L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, AQUAGE, ALTERNA HAIRCARE, ANDIS, KENRA

Aquage unveils a new look and packaging that further its commitment to protecting the ocean.

Aquage is showcasing its new branding, and the best part is that its new packaging will now be made from repurposed and recycled ocean plastic. For more than 20 years, the brand has been using sustainably sourced ingredients from the ocean and producing high-performance products inspired by the restorative and nutrient-rich properties of the sea. To further its commitment and appreciation of what the ocean has to o er, Aquage will be continuing its partnership with Plastic Bank, an organization dedicated to stopping plastic from entering the ocean, by donating a portion of every Aquage purchase to preventing 2.5 million plastic bottles (50 tons) from entering the ocean. By 2023, the brand aims to have 100 per cent recycled packaging.

Aquage is also streamlining its product portfolio to make it easier for stylists and clients to navigate haircare. It will be launching a new Dry Shampoo and Blonde Care collection as well as continuing with its launch of the Backroom, a stylist-focused platform that o ers educational content, resources and product demonstrations.

From the Inside Out

Renew your clients’ scalps and repair hair bonds with the Renewing Scalp Care collection from Alterna Haircare.

With more clients washing their hair less often and relying on dry shampoos between washes, their scalps are sure to be in need of some TLC. To help reduce dryness and remove buildup, Alterna’s new Renewing Scalp Care Collection features vegan products that help cleanse, exfoliate, moisturize and soothe the scalp. The Renewing Scalp Care Scrub to Foam is an exfoliator and shampoo that gently removes oil, dirt, dead skin and product buildup from the scalp. Part of the collection, the Renewing Scalp Care Hemp LeaveOn Treatment is a lightweight and fast-absorbing scalp treatment that moisturizes and soothes the skin.

The Renewing Scalp Care Peppermint Leave-On Treatment is also a lightweight and fast-absorbing treatment formulated to help maintain the scalp’s moisture and balance while reducing dryness and flakiness.

Cordless Cut

Get function, comfort and control with the Andis reVITE Cordless Clipper.

Featuring a removable and adjustable stainless steel blade design, the new reVITE Cordless Clipper from Andis allow you to make changes between a Taper blade and a Fade blade quickly and easily. Available in black and grey, the clippers feature a non-slip texture grip to enhance comfort and prevent slipping, a high-speed rotary motor with Constant Speed Technology to ensure it won’t drag or stall in thicker hair and a tapered body to improve ergonomics for all hand sizes.

The black reVITE Clipper is ideal for the clipper-over-comb technique, bald fading and freehand work and includes a Fade blade that adjusts from size 00000-000 for ultra-close cutting, as well as an unbreakable aluminum housing. The grey reVITE Clipper is designed for stylists and barbers who prefer an ultra-lightweight design. It’s made with a composite housing with a slim shape that makes it ideal for smaller hands and features a Taper blade that adjusts from size 000-1 for all-around haircutting.

Hairlines — NEWS

The More The Merrier

Give your clients three instead of one with KMS Holiday Packs.

Each features a shampoo, conditioner and styling product and includes the brand’s Consciousstyle with essential ingredients, Moistrepair to restore the hair’s natural protective coating, Colorvitality to help with colour retention and easy styling and Tamefrizz to help reduce frizz.

Holiday Hair

Make gift-giving easy for your clients (and yourself!) this season with limited-edition holiday sets from Alterna Haircare.

These five limited-edition holiday sets offer luxurious and clean haircare products that are based on hair types and displayed in a special box with a complimentary styling gift.

• The My Hair.My Canvas. Holiday Set includes a gentle vegan moisturizing shampoo and conditioner to enhance shine, smoothness and manageability and the Any Way Texture Spray that helps achieve natural waves while fighting frizz and protecting against humidity.

• The Caviar Anti-Aging Smoothing Anti-Frizz Holiday Set is ideal for medium to thick hair, with a shampoo and conditioner to control humidity.

• The Caviar Anti-Aging Multiplying Volume Holiday Set is perfect for clients with thin and fine hair who are looking for instant volume and thickness and includes both a shampoo and a conditioner.

• The Caviar Anti-Aging Reconstructing Bond Repair Holiday Set includes a shampoo and conditioner that feature a new formula made with sustainably sourced maracuja oil to help reduce breakage and split ends while mending damaged strands.

• The Caviar Anti-Aging Replenishing Moisture Holiday Set is ideal for brittle and dry hair and infuses the hair with moisture for increased texture, manageability and shine.

Professional Portfolio

Get your clients set for the holidays with Serie Expert Holiday Kits from L’Oréal Professionnel.

Professional haircare shouldn’t stop once your clients leave the salon. L’Oréal Professionnel’s Serie

Expert Holiday Kits—Absolut Repair for damaged hair, Vitamino Color for coloured hair, Curl Expression for curly or coily hair, Metal Detox for anti-breakage, Inforcer for fragile hair, and the Pro Longer for longer hair—each gift set features a shampoo and mask. The Pro Longer kit also includes the brand’s Filler-A100 + Amino Acid instant ends filler for additional strength and durability.

Give the Gift of Luxury

Oribe has a gift for every client (and stylist) with its holiday collection.

With packaging designed in collaboration with modern Japanese artist Kohei Kyomori to honour the brand’s dedication to craftsmanship, Oribe has released seven sets, including the Beautiful Color Travel Set, Everyday Essentials Travel Set, Style & Refresh Set, Gold Lust Collection, Gold Lust Liter Set, Signature Experience Collection and Côte d’Azur Hand Care Set. Each set features different combinations of Oribe’s care and styling (or hand care) products.

All boxes are made from 100 per cent post-consumer recycled (PCR) paper, and the internal trays are made from 100 per cent biodegradable plant fibre— produced at zero emission and zero waste to landfill manufacturing facilities.

PHOTOS: ALTERNA HAIRCARE, KMS, L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, ORIBE, DANA LYSENG, RODRIGO ARANEDA, NORM WRIGHT

Back to Live!

We’re excited to be returning to a live and in-person show this year on Sunday, November 20, 2022, at the Westin Harbour Castle in Toronto. We missed you all and can’t wait to reconnect again.

Contessa Countdown

5 p.m. 6:45 p.m. Cocktail party

7 p.m. 10:15 p.m. Awards, presentations & dinner

10:30 p.m. 1:30 a.m.

Club Afterglow, the 2023 Contessa Awards Afterparty at the Westin Harbour Castle

Get Glowing

This year, we’re happy to be hosting our official 2023 Contessa Awards after-party on-site at the Westin Harbour Castle in Toronto. Club Afterglow, sponsored by Schwarzkopf Professional, is a neon-inspired party paradise with a live DJ, glow-in-the-dark furniture and decor (including an LED dance floor!), fun activations and more. Admission is free and exclusive to Contessa ticket holders.

Eye-Opener

Standing United

Led by Contessa award-winning stylist and Wella top artist Dana Lyseng from Supernova Salon in North Vancouver, Wella’s presentation is all about emerging from darkness into a positive world filled with unity, positivity, love and respect.

Inclusivity Is Beautiful

Back for a second consecutive year, Contessa award-winning stylist and Matrix Canada’s artistic director Rodrigo Araneda from Olab par Rodrigo in Montreal is leading Matrix’s colourful and vibrant presentation that celebrates inclusivity for all.

Don’t forget to snap a selfie while holding our November/December issue and tag us @salonmagazine on Instagram for a chance to win two tickets to the Contessa Awards gala in Toronto (plus hotel accommodations at the Westin Harbour Castle)!

This year, we’re thrilled to have an exclusive Contessa Awards show opener by multi-Contessa award-winning stylist Norm Wright of Taz Hair Co. in Toronto! If you follow Norm on Instagram, you’ll know that he’s been cooking up a very special project that combines welding with engineering, robotics and more. We can’t give too much away, but it’s a show you won’t want to miss! Note: His presentation starts at 7 p.m. EST sharp, so don’t delay in getting to the Contessa ballroom on time!

Gelish

The I Wanna Dance with Somebody collection features shades inspired by Whitney Houston, including Belt It Out, a holographic violet shade.

Tinseltown

From film festivals to the Emmy Awards, we’ve rounded up some of our favourite “tips” from the red carpet to provide some inspiration for all of your holiday manicures this season.

1 Celebrity manicurist Thuy Nguyen gave Mindy Kaling neon yellow nails to match her dress at the Emmy Awards. Nguyen used Aprés Gel Couleur and Gel-X nail extensions to achieve this show-stopping look.

2 Los Angeles-based nail artist Shigeko Taylor gave Canada’s very own Sandra Oh berry purple nails for her Emmy look by mixing pink and purple shades to create her own custom colour.

3 For Kerry Washington’s Emmy look, Los Angeles-based nail artist Kim Truong kept it classy with a sheer yet shiny cream colour and hand-painted white flower petals

adorned with silver embellishments.

4 Sydney Sweeney was spotted at the Emmys with silver ombré nails created by Los Angeles-based nail artist Zola Ganzorigt, who used OPI GelColor and Chrome Effects to get the look.

5 For Emmy award-winning singer Lizzo, celebrity nail artist Eri Ishizu created bold red nails using OPI GelColor to match the singer’s dress.

6 For the Tribeca Film Festival, New Yorkbased nail artist Naomi Yasuda created light pink and black polka-dot coffin nails for Lily Allen.

OPI

Dazzle your clients away this holiday season with Charmed, I’m Sure, a rich fuchsia shimmer from the Jewel Be Bold collection.

SPOTLIGHT

All About the Base

Gelish is adding to its nail essentials family with the new Foundation Flex Soak-O Rubber Base Nail Gel. With four shades that work as a base coat with reliable adhesion, the gel can be used to build volume for uneven nails, conceal discoloured nails and act as a ridgefilling base coat under gel polish. Made with the pliability of Rubber Base Technology and created with the brand’s advanced Foundation Base Technology to cocoon the nails in its rubberized gel system, the gel contains bio-sourced light activated bonder to give nails flexibility and help prevent breaks and snaps. Foundation Flex Soak-O Rubber Base Nail Gel comes in a brush-on application bottle and features a vegan and cruelty-free formula that’s made with vitamin A and biotin. The four shades include Clear, a crystal clear base coat for natural nails; Light Pink to revive pale nails; Light Nude, a soft neutral to blur imperfections; and Cover Beige, a semi-opaque beige to conceal any imperfections.

ORLY Industrial Playground from the Futurism collection is an iridescent purple that’s sure to steal the spotlight at any holiday party.

CND

Get your clients ready for all their nights out with Feel the Flutter, a deep berry mauve from the Painted Love collection.

Artistic Nail Design

Regardless of which of Santa’s lists your clients are on, help them stand out with Naughty But Nice, a purpleblue pearl shade from the Totally Tinseled Collection.

Tech Know

Founded by a salon receptionist, Phorest is a scheduling software that enables salon owners and staff to easily manage their appointments and business to help grow their clientele. Phorest assists with scheduling, online bookings, consultation forms, automated SMS and email communications and video consultations and offers a receptionist 24 hours a day, seven days a week. The software also helps owners manage their business and employees with features to make managing inventory easier by tracking online and in-store orders, offering analytics and reports to evaluate their salons’ success and providing point-of-sale (POS) software so all administrative work can be done in one place. To top it off, Phorest also offers a marketing suite that features marketing templates and a loyalty program to reward longtime clients.

which provides the salon with analytics to help owners and managers track performance, identify trends and manage colour spend. Vish helps reduce inventory costs by 25 to 40 per cent and allows stylists to manage their work from one place instead of having to go back and forth between the reception desk. Vish can be adapted to fit salons’ individual needs and can be integrated with a wide range of POS systems.

Vish was founded on the idea of supporting salons to reduce waste, improve profit margins, stabilize workloads and create balance. A simple and intuitive system, Vish helps collect colour formulas and service information through a Bluetooth scale, all while helping stylists measure and mix their colour. The three-part system is comprised of the Vish Color Bar app, which allows stylists to weigh and save formulas and keep track of client notes and data; Vish Front Desk, which keeps the salon’s reception team in the loop on product charges; and Vish Dashboard,

Square offers a wide range of business

Square offers a wide range of business services that allow salon owners and stylists to easily manage their business. From payment solutions for accepting credit and debit cards to an ecommerce platform for setting up online storefronts to software for handling invoices, scheduling appointments and more, Square is ideal for any sized business. It’s especially helpful for those who aren’t tech savvy because it offers customizable, pre-designed website layouts and an intuitive dashboard that allows you to manage everything from one place.

SalonScale is a female-led Canadian company started by a Contessa-winning hairstylist that works as a back bar management system to track what it costs stylists and salon owners to provide colour services so they can effectively charge their clients (and chair renters) for the product used during a service. It allows salon owners and stylists to see and understand the cost of the product in their bowls, while storing and tracking colour formulas with notes on each client. Plus, there are options to view expense reports and analytics, track how much colour is being used and recommend reorder amounts.

SalonScale comes with a Bluetooth scale to weigh the product, but salon owners can also choose to use their own scale with integration that’s both easy and effective.

Hairlines — TECHNOLOGY

DISCOVER SOME OF THE CUTTING-EDGE TECHNOLOGY AND INNOVATIONS IN THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY INDUSTRY THAT ARE MAKING THEIR WAY INTO SALONS.

FROM THE WET MOP TO THE BUTTERFLY TO THE OCTOPUS, WE CHECKED IN WITH THREE HAIRSTYLISTS TO GET THE INSIDE SCOOP ON THE LATEST SOCIAL MEDIA STYLES THAT ARE INSPIRING CLIENTS TO TRY SOMETHING NEW THIS SEASON.

Now Trending

Nostalgia continues to play a big role in the latest hair trends, with modernized takes that are greatly influenced by icons from the ’70s, ’80s and ’90s. Today’s latest trends stemming from social media, such as the wet mop, butterfly and octopus haircuts, all have one thing in common: They combine elements from the past to create a nostalgic cut and style with an edgy, modern-day vibe.

While these three cuts have proven to be quite popular online, they’re now making their way into salons, with more and more clients requesting them at their hair appointments.

“Trends are no longer a seasonal thing; they’re a weekly or monthly thing now because of social media,” says Rino Balzano, co-owner of Taz Hair Co. in Toronto and an educator and ambassador for Goldwell. “[These styles] have a very big influence on millennials and the younger generation.”

Though these trends may be a hot topic among younger clientele, who typically opt for bolder styles, that doesn’t mean you can’t find ways to incorporate elements of these cuts into any hair service.

“Social media is an avenue for inspiration for people to be able to push their limits, and it enables clients to have more knowledge about hair trends.”

— PATRICK HUPÉ, CO-OWNER OF GREAT LENGTHS HAIR GALLERY, MARKHAM, ONT.

PRO TIP WHEN CREATING THE LAYERS, KEEP THE TOP LAYER DISCONNECTED FROM THE BOTTOM TO CREATE A FEATHERED EFFECT THAT’S REMINISCENT OF A BUTTERFLY’S WINGS.

TEXT: LUCY MAZZUCCO, PHOTOS: HAIR: HAIR: DAVID MURRAY & KATRINA KELLY, JOICO EUROPEAN DESIGN TEAM, WARDROBE

STYLING: KATIE MOORE,

PHOTO: JAMIE BLANSHARD, HAIR: SEVDA DURUKAN, THE STUDIO BY SEVDA, BELGIUM, MAKEUP:

YVONNE NUSSDORFER, WARDROBE STYLING: JULIA MULLER,

PHOTO: GIEL DOMEN AND KENNETH VANDEVELDE.

The Butterfly

One of the reasons why the butterfly haircut is so popular is that it’s generally low maintenance and a chance for clients who want the layered and feathered look to try something new without fully committing to a fringe.

Ludovic Jan, owner of Opus Salon in Vancouver and Kelowna, B.C., and an artist and educator for Redken, says the butterfly transports the industry back to the ’90s with its wispy texture. “It’s sort of an evolution of the curtain fringe,” he says. “The butterfly is for those who want to have a little bit more volume around the front without fully embracing a fringe.”

“The butterfly is a great way of showing where you still have a bend in the hair but looser,” adds Patrick Hupé, co-owner of Great Lengths Hair Gallery in Markham, Ont., and an educator for Joico. “I’ve been seeing a lot of texture. It used to be all about glamorous waves, but now the fashion industry has gone a bit looser.”

When it comes to achieving the cut, our experts say a razor is helpful to create that wispy texture. “The razor is kind of making a resurgence, not only to cut hair but also to shave hair,” says Balzano. “Razors are designed to create more shape, so you’re getting a softer texture rather than being completely blunt.”

“It’s more about understanding where the hair lives and the elevation that you need to achieve it,” adds Jan. “A butterfly haircut will be heavier at the base, and a razor is a very useful tool to create that texture.”

The Octopus

To the untrained eye, the octopus haircut can be confused with the wolf cut, but the differentiating factors are the amount of volume and wispy texture without the shag or mullet.

“I have a special love for the octopus because it reminds me of the punk era and rock ’n’ roll,” says Jan. “An octopus cut is definitely more textured, so it’s all about sectioning and elevation, as well as combing and travelling around the head. Also, the finishing is very important.”

While the cut is layered, it’s also meant to be softer for a more modern look. “When I think of an octopus, I think about those tentacles, which means simulating that in the haircut,” says Hupé. “It’s a very soft, layered haircut yet modern. For the octopus, it would be a little bit more of a rounded layer through the top.”

“I’m working a lot more with interior cutting than exterior cutting,” adds Balzano. “I’m working with the roundness of the head and in quadrants, each one separately. Whether I concave layer

around layer or square off a layer, there’s a lot of disconnection within those quadrants, so I’m creating a shape inside the haircut to create that exterior shape.”

The Wet Mop

As we know, haircuts have no gender. But when it comes to the wet mop (aka. a modified bowl cut), it’s been gaining some serious traction among men. While longer in length, the wet mop focuses more on texture and volume at the top of the head. It’s especially popular among younger clientele, who let their hair grow out during the pandemic and ended up liking the fact that it was low maintenance.

“The wet mop is the most popular haircut right now,” says Hupé. “It’s definitely in high demand among boys and men who are growing their hair a little bit longer now. For a while, we were seeing a lot of the pompadour, but now the story has to change and evolve.”

“The wet mop reminds me of boy bands from the ’90s like Backstreet Boys,” says Jan, adding that while it’s not his personal favourite, there’s a demand and place for it. “I consider myself to be a hair designer, so nothing is a challenge for me anymore,” he says. “I can pinpoint every single haircut and customize it for every client, and that’s a real advantage.”

As an educator and ambassador for Goldwell, Rino Balzano teaches Genesis Cutting Evolution and Genesis Cutting Inception, which are two-day programs that focus on the fundamentals of cutting short to medium hair and medium to long hair. “We work with the shape of the head and in quadrants: universal partings and equator partings,” he says. “It’s very similar to geography: We work with longitude and latitude in a mapping system, so I teach not only how to cut hair but also how to break down the different areas of the head.”

PRO-TIP DURING THE CONSULTATION, IT’S IMPORTANT TO DISCUSS YOUR CLIENT’S STYLING ROUTINE. CONSIDER SHOWING THEM TIPS AND TRICKS TO EASILY RECREATE THE STYLE AT HOME.

GET EXPERT TIPS AND TRICKS ON HOW TO SEAMLESSLY TRANSITION YOUR CLIENTS TO BRONDE THIS SEASON.

Bronde Bombshell

While the colder weather is upon us, clients are continuing to embrace livedin, low-maintenance looks.

Bronde—think walnut blonde and mushroom blonde—has been trending, and with this melange of brown and blonde making waves this season, there’s no better time to start talking to your clients about changing up their colour. Combining blonde and brunette tones is a great way to transition blonde clients to darker tones that are warm enough for fall and winter or add a bit of lightness to darker shades for the ultimate bronde glow.

“Everybody wants to flaunt their mane right now with blended, customizable and natural looks that are low maintenance and colour that looks lived in,” says Maral Poladian Marin, owner of Danny’s Coiffure Unisex in Montreal and a member of Schwarzkopf Professional’s #SKPCANSquad. “We’ve been seeing a shift from balayage and overprocessed looks that are high maintenance to simplicity with hair integrity.”

“Every fall and winter season, we have less sunlight, so we must put it somewhere and the hair is a good way to make people shine,” adds Fanny Villeneuve, a master colourist based in Saint-Jérôme, Que., and portfolio artist for L’Oréal Professionnel. “For blondes and brunettes, it’s the season to play with dimension, light and shadows.”

Talking Points

Before jumping directly into the colour service, it’s important to talk to your clients about their expectations, hair habits and the amount of time and maintenance they want to spend on their new hue.

PRO TIP POLADIAN MARIN RECOMMENDS ASKING YOUR CLIENT IF THEY WOULD RATHER BE CONSIDERED A BLONDE OR A BRUNETTE. IF THEY WANT TO BE KNOWN AS A BLONDE, MAKE SURE TO KEEP DEPTH IN THE BACK AND MAINTAIN A BRIGHT FACE FRAME.

“The first thing I ask is what kind of maintenance they want to bring to their colour,” says Villeneuve. “If they don’t want to come to the salon very often, I will adjust the placement of the light effect to make it easy to grow out over time, with very little touch-up required. The second question I ask is if they’re ready to invest in good haircare products because that’s the key to keeping the colour bright and the hair super-strong.”

While Villeneuve starts by asking her clients their expectations and goals for the service, Poladian Marin likes to bring out her wig collection so she can see her clients’ vision with her own eyes.

“The wigs help showcase which colour best complements their skin tone and eye colour,” she says. “We choose the colour together and make their hair dreams come true.”

Bronde Beginnings

Whether your client needs a bit more depth or lightness to achieve their perfect bronde, every colourist has their own set of tips and techniques to create their dream shade.

“To make a blonde darker, my favourite technique is a combination of shadow roots and reverse balayage—this adds depth and dimension but keeps the hair looking blonde,” says Villeneuve.

“For brunettes, I use just a little piece of balayage to get the roots darker and keep the depth. I also avoid adding pieces on top of the head to really keep it naturallooking.”

“For a brunette who doesn’t necessarily want to feel completely blonde, a good way to achieve the ideal colour is by adding just a little piece of balayage or contouring,” she adds. “And

TEXT: SAMI CHAZONOFF, PHOTOS: HAIR: 2021 CLUBSTAR ARTISTIC TEAM, U.K., MAKEUP: JO SUGAR, WARDROBE STYLING: BERNARD CONNOLLY, PHOTO: AYO BANTON, HAIR: SALLY BROOKS, BROOKS & BROOKS, U.K., MAKEUP: VIOLET ZENG, PHOTO: DENIS ROBINSON, L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL.

IMAGES: GETTY

Colour Bar

L’Oréal Professionnel Dia Light

This ammonia-free tone-on-tone colour range that can be used to tone, gloss or refresh for shiny and conditioned results.

L’Oréal Professionnel Metal Detox

This five-piece in-salon and take-home system prevents breakage and colour fade by removing metal particles found in hair.

Schwarzkopf Professional BlondMe

Integrated with the brand’s Fibre Bond technology, this complete system o ers in-salon lightening and toning products, as well as take-home care products to protect hair throughout the entire lightening and colour process.

Schwarzkopf Professional Chroma ID Bonding Color Mask

Available in nine shades (including beige, granite and chocolate), this semi-permanent colour mask can be customized to help your clients maintain their hair at home.

PRO TIP

the best way to make it feel natural is to keep tone-on-tone colour, so one to two levels lighter is best. For blondes, I like to play with a shadow or stretch root with ammonia-free colour. As with brunettes, I suggest going a maximum of two levels darker, and I like to add some pieces of reverse balayage to make the blonde textured and full of dimension.”

When it comes to placement, Poladian Marin likes to use a lighter shade where light would naturally hit the hairstyle to create a sun-kissed look. She suggests using a classic face-framing or colourblocking technique to combine blonde and brunette tones. Or for a softer look, she recommends using a colour-melting technique.

WHEN TRANSITIONING BLONDE CLIENTS TO DARKER TONES FOR FALL, CONSIDER USING SLICES RATHER THAN WEAVES TO ADD DARKER PANELS. SLICES ARE EASIER TO TRANSITION BACK TO BLONDE, WHEREAS EXTREMELY SMALL WEAVES CAN BE TRICKY TO PICK OUT AND REDO.

“The key to bronde is to add dimension and depth to the hair colour,” she says. “Add several shades of colour and use different developers to get maximum dimension. You can maintain a bright face frame by using a sweeping motion to hand-paint colour or lightener directly on the hair.”

Building Business

Having conversations with your clients about trending shades and what it takes to achieve—and maintain—the ultimate bronde look will also help get more

clients into the salon, which in turn builds business through your colour services.

“Before my clients leave after a colour service, I like to suggest an in-between service,” says Villeneuve. “For my brunette clients, I suggest a little contouring to make the rest of the balayage ‘pop’ without having to do the full head.”

Poladian Marin uses product sales to build business by encouraging her clients to purchase a hair mask to maintain their new colour between visits.

“BRONDE IS CURRENTLY TRENDING BECAUSE PEOPLE ARE WALKING AWAY FROM OVER-PROCESSED AND BALAYAGE LOOKS. BYE-BYE HIGH MAINTENANCE! WE’RE ALL FALLING IN LOVE WITH SIMPLICITY AND INTEGRITY THIS FALL AND WINTER. IT'S NOT BRUNETTE, IT'S NOT BLONDE. IT’S THE MOST BEAUTIFUL IN BETWEEN… IT’S BRONDE!”

— MARAL POLADIAN MARIN, OWNER OF DANNY’S COIFFURE UNISEX, MONTREAL

NEXT WAVE OF TALENT

From emerging hairstylists who are just getting their start to excelling stylists who are on their way to becoming the next set of leaders and to even those in between, we spoke with hairstylists to learn more about their stories and how they’re making their mark on the industry.

BY VERONICA BOODHAN AND LAUREN FARRUGIA

H emerging

Emily Kooistra

Salon Cyan, London, Ont. Age: 26 • Pronouns: She/Her

Emily Kooistra knew she loved working with hair at a very young age. “Growing up, I’ve always loved playing with hair, and I used to beg my younger sister to let me play with her hair,” she says. “I wasn’t sure what I wanted to do after I finished high school, so my mom suggested going to hair school.”

When Kooistra graduated in the fall of 2017, she worked with a salon for five months before moving to Salon Cyan in London, Ont., where she assisted for four years before getting the opportunity to work on the floor.

“I really liked hair school, but it’s very different from working in a salon,” she says. “No matter when you get to work on the floor, there’s always going to be a period of stress. While it was definitely a long wait, I’m glad I assisted for so many years.”

Kooistra credits her mentors in the salon, salon owner Jagoda Hall and senior stylist Kristina Hryclik. “I assisted Kristina for four years, and she very

much invested in me,” says Kooistra. “She was constantly trying to help me improve and wanted to see me succeed. She was very encouraging and helpful with answering my questions. I feel very grateful that I got to assist someone who loves to teach like that.”

“The salon environment that Jagoda has created is all about teaching, and I hadn’t experienced that before,” she adds. “She’s always been so encouraging and supportive of her stylists, making sure everyone feels comfortable and has a good work experience.”

Kooistra and Hall have also discovered a mutual love for competitions, recently participating in Kao’s Global Creative Awards and travelling to Amsterdam to compete in the live competition, where Kooistra was named the silver global winner for New Talent Colorist.

“I decided to enter the competition because I wanted to make something I was proud of,” she says. “I think I blacked out for a second. I was not expecting it at all. It was such a great surprise and an exciting way to start my career.”

While competing in and winning a global competition isn’t the typical route for new stylists entering the industry, Kooistra says it’s all about building your confidence and putting yourself out there.

“Don’t be so hard on yourself,” she says. “It’s good to have expectations, but don’t hold yourself too high. Realize that there’s going to be a lot of trial and error in the first year of your career. For me, I just want to be comfortable in my skills and gain confidence. I want to build my portfolio and do more competitions— they’re really fun. I’m still very new, so I have lots ahead of me, but I’m excited about it.”

PHOTOS: KAO, SHARDAY WALKER, KELLY HÉROUX

VISIT SALONMAGAZINE.CA TO FIND OUT MORE ABOUT EMILY KOOISTRA’S WINNING LOOK.

Sharday Walker

Hairology Studio, Winnipeg Age: 21 • Pronouns: She/Her

After just graduating from the Aveda Institute in Winnipeg this year, Sharday Walker is taking the salon industry and social media by storm.

“I had taken a year off from high school and then COVID hit, so I was forced to take another year off,” she says. “I wasn’t sure what I wanted to do, but my mom knew that I liked doing hair when I was growing up because I would make wigs and braid my friends’ hair, and it was one of the only things that I was really passionate about. But I knew that there was going to be an aspect of me being my own boss in the hair industry, and that was holding me back. I realized that the only way to make it was to be responsible for your own success, I just went for it and it was one of the best decisions I’ve ever made because I’m loving it so far.”

Kelly Héroux

Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que.

Age: 21 • Pronouns: She/Her

For Kelly Héroux, being a hairstylist was always her calling. “I knew from elementary school that I wanted to be a stylist,” she says. “I remember being really young and telling my parents that it was my dream. I think that’s what I’m most proud of: listening to myself from the start.”

For Héroux, the dynamic nature of being a hairstylist is what keeps her going. “I love the fact that there’s always something new to learn,” she says. “Of course, there are always challenges for younger stylists, but that’s what pushes me. I always have to do a little more than others to prove my worth as a stylist.”

Throughout her career, Héroux has been working at Salon Espace C in Quebec and says that working with a team has been a big benefit for her. “The team is simply wonderful,” she says. “Everyone helps one another, and we stayed in touch during the pandemic,

During her time in hair school, Walker noticed a lack of textured hair education, which was what she knew she wanted to focus on. “It’s important to me because I’ve always had curly hair and, growing up, I always hated it,” she says. “To this day, I still struggle with it, but I realized that beauty is in the eye of the beholder and you really just have to accept what you have and embrace it. Once I started to embrace my own hair, I wanted to help others gain that confidence and make them feel happy. I feel that it’s important to incorporate it into the hair school curriculum because so many people have textured hair. I really want to normalize curly hair and let people know that they can do anything with their curly hair. I want people to feel comfortable and confident with their natural hair, and that was my goal when I chose to focus on it.”

As a Gen Z stylist, Walker has embraced social media and uses it as a platform to share her work. “It’s where I get to show my talent, and it really helps me build my clientele,” she says. “If

clients are thinking of booking with me, they get to see what I can do, how I teach and how I cut and style. I think it’s helped me a lot when it comes to getting clients into my chair.”

Walker shares that in addition to social media, which has helped her garner about 85 per cent of her clientele, working at Hairology Studio has made a large impact on her career. “Working in a salon has really given me that push to build a clientele and has helped me do it. If I was working solo, I think it would be harder to get those clients in as an apprentice because I think clients like coming into the salon to get the full experience,” she says. “Working for someone like Josie Vilay has also helped because she’s always pushing me to learn more. She’s always sending the team discounted courses to take, she gives us the opportunity to watch educational videos and she makes sure she has time in between her clients to help us. All of that is so important and I don’t think I would be where I am if it wasn’t for her. As long as I’m willing to put in the work, she’s willing to help me succeed.”

which I think made us even stronger than before. We’re one big, beautiful team. Ann-Marie Goupil and Kathleen Landry [coowners of the salon] are the best people I could have learned from. They’re always there to help me, which I’m very grateful for. Things can be difficult at the beginning because you have no experience, so it’s great to work with people like them who help you move forward.”

Héroux knew competing was something she always wanted to do, even before she went to hair school. “I’ve always been competitive, especially with myself, so I needed something to push my limits even more,” she says. “When I started working at Salon Espace C, I was so happy that they were doing competitions, and being part of a team like that motived me even more.”

Although competing can be hard for younger stylists, Héroux says that her mentors have helped her along the way. “Ann-Marie and her brother Pete have

helped me a lot with my creative process for competitions,” she adds. “They’ve taught me everything, and I can’t wait to learn even more from them and continue competing.”

Even though Héroux’s career is just starting, she’s already learned a lot. “On several occasions, I doubted myself and wanted to give up, but I didn’t, and now I’m more than proud of myself,” she says. “It may sound cliché, but if I could give one piece of advice to other young stylists, it would be to never give up. I know that at the beginning it’s difficult, but in life you can’t have everything just by snapping your fingers. Some people have an easier time than others for sure, but the goal is to go as far as possible, not to be the fastest one.”

“I think that the new generation of stylists is very promising,” she adds. “The people who enter the world of hairstyling now are motivating others to learn more, and they aren’t afraid to push their limits.”

Breanne Gershon

H risingGlam Breanne, Calgary Age: 27 • Pronouns: She/Her

You may recognize Breanne Gershon from her work in makeup (and as a finalist at the Contessa Awards), but she actually got her start in hair.

Now after being in the industry for a decade, she still remembers trying to find her footing as a young student in high school. “Growing up, I didn’t play group sports or have my own thing that I was into,” she says. “While I loved music and taking photos, I didn’t know exactly what I wanted to do. As I got older, I started playing with makeup and thought it was something I could do on my own time and dedicate as much time as I wanted to get better at it. In high school, I met my cosmetology teacher, who helped me realize that this was what I wanted to do.

Her discipline and high standards have stayed with me.”

While the cosmetology program included makeup and aesthetics, the focus was on hair, which became Gershon’s focus as well. “Once

I graduated, I apprenticed with a salon and started doing hair,” she says. “It required a lot of dedication to become good at it, so I really focused on doing hair for five years. I felt pretty good about where I was, but I felt like I was missing something, so I started looking into competitions. I wanted to start doing photo shoots, but I felt like my hair skills were not quite where I wanted them to be yet. My makeup skills were better since makeup has always come very natural to me. I decided to start with competing for makeup [for the Contessas], and this year was the first time I decided to enter for hair.” It paid off, with Gershon being named a Contessa 2023 finalist for both

Makeup Artist and Alberta Hairstylist of the Year!

In addition to owning her own business, Gershon teaches at MC College in Calgary. “Teaching has given me a completely different perspective,” she says. “When I first started doing hair 10 years ago, social media became a thing a few years in, but now it’s huge! Social media is everything now. With students now, they’re from a whole different generation of doing hair, and I’ve had to adjust my thinking to understand the new generation of hairstylists.”

“We live in an era of instant gratification, especially for the new generation, with social media and everything moving so fast now,” she adds. “But I don’t think our industry is about that. It takes so much time and dedication. It’s an amazing industry, but you have to put in the work. Whatever you put into it is what you’ll get back.”

Chelsea Wiebe

HONEY the Studio, Winnipeg Age: 27 • Pronouns: She/Her

For Winnipeg-based hairstylist Chelsea Wiebe, her venture into the hair industry started out as spontaneous decision, and has now led to being a studio co-owner, Schwarzkopf Professional #SKPCANSquad member as well as a small business owner. “I knew I wanted a creative career and I thought hair school would be fun, so I decided to try it out and see what happened,” she says. “I ended up loving the craft of doing hair and have been doing it for almost eight years now.”

Although it was never Wiebe’s dream to be a salon owner, opening a studio felt right in the moment. “I co-own a private studio with another stylist who I was working with before. We both ended up wanting to run our own businesses out of a shared studio,” she says. “We opened a space with just the two of and it’s been

great. It’s nice to have our own space to work out of and it’s been fun to be able to create the perfect vibe for us. It came very naturally and was never my plan. It just kind of happened.”

“I’ve learned a lot. It’s a lot of hard work and I feel like I’ve learned a lot regarding business owning. Learning how to run my own business has been a learning curve, but realizing that I’m very capable of doing it myself has been rewarding,” she adds. “For other stylists who are thinking of opening their own pace, I would encourage them to never lose the passion of their craft. Being a salon owner, it can be hard to juggle all of these new roles and responsibilities, but if you’re passionate about doing hair keep doing that as many days as you can. Cut out one day to do all of your business stuff, but if your passion is being balanced it’ll be really helpful.”

Through her experience and time in the salon industry, Wiebe has been

able to build her dream clientele, but that wasn’t always the case. “When I was first starting out, I had to know how to do a little bit of everything to build a clientele,” she says. “It was challenging because I often had to do hair that wasn’t my style or my vision, but over the years as you create your brand you develop your ideal clientele.”

“Those years of taking every client, making mistakes and learning how to fix them has really gotten me to where I am now. I don’t have a single client that I don’t want to be working with. Every one of my clients make work so much fun. Being in that environment where you see so many people a day and you can catch up with them and watch them grow is so amazing,” she adds. “I also love the creative aspect of my job. My days are always different, and I don’t think I could work an office job where I’m just sitting behind a desk. I love being able to create art and that’s what doing hair has become to me.”

PHOTO: BREANNE GERSHON, CHELSEA WIEBE, LORENZO HECHTER, MJ DEZIEL

excelling

Lorenzo Hechter

Team Lead and Manager of Hair & Makeup, SSENSE, and stylist at Orbite, Outremont, Que.

Age: 26 • Pronouns: He/Him

Coming from a family full of hairstylists, colourists and makeup artists, Quebecbased stylist Lorenzo Hechter was no stranger to the salon industry when he started working in it at the age of just 13.

“My father has owned a hair salon for a very long time, and I started working there just cleaning up hair and folding towels. When I was about 16 or 17, I started taking it a little more serious,” he says. “I graduated university and then went into the hairstyling industry as a full-time junior hairstylist at my father’s salon. From there I decided to get some experience at a few chain

MJ Déziel

APART Studio, Montreal Age: 30 • Pronouns: They/Them

For Montreal-based studio owner and hairstylist of 10 years MJ Déziel, their journey within the hair industry has been full of lessons that have gotten them to where they are now.

“I’m at a point in my career where I’ve learned a lot and I can now work to develop my entrepreneur side while still doing the things that I love,” says Déziel. “I think that’s what I love most about my job the most is the freedom it gives me. I can do editorial work, I can travel, I can teach, and I can really do whatever it is I want to do.”

Although Déziel has been in the industry for a while now, they share that they’ve learned a lot of valuable lessons later on in their career. “When I first started out, I always wanted to move a lot faster than I could. I had big dreams and I just wanted to achieve them as soon as possible. I was also working with people who didn’t have

salons, and then I started working more on the fashion, editorial and corporate side, and started working with SSENSE, a Montreal-

the same vision as I did and that was a really big challenge for me,” says Déziel. “I think I’m just starting to realize that I’ve achieved a lot and I have a pretty good resume so I’m starting to live more in the present.”

With a lot of working hours under their belt, Déziel has been branching out and recently worked backstage at Paris Fashion Week. “It was such an honour to be able to do hair for big brands like VETEMENTS or Balenciaga. I didn’t even know that me, a little French Canadian, could reach that goal. It was so unattainable in my opinion, and I think networking and surrounding myself with the right people really helped me,” says Déziel. “It was a very intense experience, and it was so interesting to understand the hierarchy and where to place yourself when you’re new to this industry. I’m a rookie in this industry and I can’t wait to continue this journey.”

based fashion company, and that’s where I am now.”

Hechter now works as a team lead and manager of hair and makeup five days a week and works one day a week at his father’s salon, Orbite. Growing up in a family that works in the salon industry showed Hechter what it could offer a stylist, but he never felt pressured to follow his family’s footsteps. “I was always really attracted to the hair industry because of how it offers more than just working behind the chair. My father is a fairly well know stylist within the industry, my mom is a makeup artist, and my stepmom is a colourist, so I’ve always been exposed to the industry,” he says. “From a very young age I always knew it was going to be one of two things for me. It was either going to be the army or hairstyling, and what really attracted me to the hairstyling industry was the business aspect of things.”

“I think because my parents had that artistic background, I wanted to give it a shot. The army would always be there, but I knew to be a good hairstylist you needed 10 to 15 years of experience under your belt, so I wanted to go for it and start young, and I haven’t looked back since,” he adds. “I think if anything, I wish I started sooner. I’m grateful to be where I am, but when I was a teenager, I was having fun and I didn’t take hair as seriously as I do now. I didn’t know if I wanted to go into it, and I feel like if I could go back and tell myself to jump into the ship sooner, I would’ve had more time to perfect my art and had more experience.”

Although he chose to become a stylist himself, Hechter shares that he’s learned very valuable lessons from his family. “I think from all of my family, I’ve learned to work hard. I was very fortunate to have been given a very comfortable lifestyle growing up and I’ve seen my parents work day in and day out,” he says. “My mother owns her own makeup counter, my father works five days a week, and the work life balance as well as just the art of putting in the work reaps rewards is one of the biggest lessons I’ve learned from them.”

“IF YOU STAY STRONG, KEEP PUSHING AND YOU GIVE THE BEST YOU CAN, YOU’LL ALWAYS BE HAPPY AND PEOPLE WILL SEE YOU FOR WHO YOU ARE.”

Marie-Anne Labrie

Pinklablonde Club, Montreal Age: 27 • Pronouns: She/Her

Known as @pinklablonde on Instagram, Marie-Anne Labrie has been a tour de force in the world of hair colour. Yet it wasn’t always a path she thought she would be on.

“I have a few family members in the hair industry and always loved doing all of my friends’ hair in high school, but I never thought I would be a stylist or

colourist,” she says. “I originally went to college for HR and hated it. My friends encouraged me to study hair because I was good at it, so I decided to give it a try.”

Once Labrie started hair school, she found her passion and wanted to work toward becoming “the best colourist in the world.”

While she resides in Montreal now, Labrie hails from the small town of Shawinigan, Que., where she began her career.

“I started working in a salon that was very cool but very small,” she says. “In smaller cities, you don’t always get an opportunity to be an apprentice at a big

salon. While the girls were very helpful, I mainly learned how to do hair on my own through online education. I was willing to put in the work and get all the education I needed to grow.”

Recognizing the challenges around education for new hairstylists in the industry, Labrie decided to start the Pinklablonde Academy. Opening in January 2023, the academy will be teaching hair colour and cutting courses to new hairstylists.

“Three years ago, I started teaching all over Canada,” she says. “Ever since I did my first course, I knew I wanted to change how people see the hair industry, and I think that starts with education. It’s for both new talent, who don’t have any education in the hair industry, and people who started their education but aren’t confident working behind the chair yet.”

Powered by L’Oréal Professionnel, the academy will use the brand’s colour products and tools. “We pitched our business plan to them and they gave us advice,” she says. “It’s a great partnership, and I’m proud to be supported by such a large brand.”

FUN FACT:

THE NAME PINKLABLONDE COMES FROM LABRIE’S FAVOURITE COLOUR (PINK), HER NICKNAME (LAB, FROM HER LAST NAME, LABRIE) AND THE FACT THAT SHE’S OBSESSED WITH HAIR COLOUR (SPECIFICALLY, BLONDE). “IT WAS NEVER MEANT TO BE MY ARTIST NAME; IT’S THE SAME NAME I’VE HAD SINCE HIGH SCHOOL,” SHE SAYS. “IT ALL STARTED WHEN I BEGAN POSTING MY WORK ON INSTAGRAM 10 YEARS AGO. PEOPLE WOULD BOOK WITH ME AND CALL ME BY MY INSTAGRAM HANDLE AND FORGET ABOUT MY REAL NAME. NOW MY FRIENDS CALL ME BY IT, TOO!”

Crossing the

Finish Line

Finishing hair can make or break your styles and make a huge difference between a client’s hair looking good and looking great. We checked in with hairstyling experts for their tips, tricks and techniques for finishing some of the most on-trend styles.

BY LAUREN FARRUGIA

In an industry that’s full of creative and talented hairstylists, how can you set yourself apart while creating a visual signature for your clients to show off to the world (and other potential clients)? The answer to that question is by achieving it through your finishing skills.

Although some hairstylists may not think finishing is something that’s still important, we spoke to experts who all share that finishing hair is something they take very seriously.

“The devil is in the details,” says Dan Nguyen, owner of Lure Salon in Vancouver and educator for Oribe. “Styling is about building the foundation and setting the shape for your final look, while finishing is the final touches that elevate that look. Finishing can be as simple as perfecting your part, brushing out your roller set or perfecting the exterior shape of a style. It’s what takes your look to the next level, and is always important.”

Another misconception about finishing is that it’s not the most effective way to build business in the salon, but that’s not the case. “When I’m finishing a client’s hair, I’m walking them through the process and explaining the products I’m using and why,” says Kirsten Klontz, a Torontobased hairstylist and brand ambassador for Hot Tools. “This helps me when it comes to selling because clients can see the products in action.”

“Finishing is also your branding,” she adds. “When you or your client posts a photo showcasing a look you’ve created for them, it’s getting yourself and your abilities out there. When a look is finished perfectly, you show potential clients what you can do.”

Although there are some styles that may require more effort with finishing, it’s vital that hairstylists know how to finish every style a client asks for. Here are some tips.

PRO TIP WHEN IT COMES TO SELLING THE PRODUCTS YOU USE, KLONTZ RECOMMENDS FINISHING ONE SIDE OF THE CLIENT’S HAIR FIRST SO THEY CAN SEE THE DIFFERENCE THOSE PRODUCTS MAKE.

Waves

From beachy to Hollywood waves, more clients are asking for more bends in their hair, regardless of whether a client has naturally wavy hair or not. While lived-in and undone looks continue to be in high demand, it doesn’t mean they’re as effortless to achieve.

“If a client has shorter hair, I’ll use a one-inch curling iron, but if they have longer hair and want a really loose look, I’ll use a flat iron and pull it down the hair strands to create waves. I also consider what the client likes to use so I can walk them through the process. I use dry texturizers and dry wax because I love the definition they give to the ends of the hair, and I always try to avoid hairsprays that are too strong because I want my end result to be a little bit undone and messy.” — Kirsten Klontz, Toronto-based hairstylist and brand ambassador for Hot Tools

“I think the most important things are to work quickly, work with a heat styling product and work with a very soft setting product initially. Once you’ve done a variation of a round-barrel curl and flat iron flat wave, mixing those together helps get a good

combination of textures—you can finish with something that has a grip to it, whether that be a salt spray or clay. I like to put those products on my fingertips and work them through the hair.” — Anthony Crosfield, owner of Union Salon in Vancouver

“Always start with a heat protectant but one that’s going to give the hair shine. Once I’ve done the beach waves and the hair has set, I love to add a texturizing product with a tiny bit of dry shampoo at the roots. Using a combination of these products will ensure that you’re able to achieve a finish that isn’t too matte. After I’ve applied the product, I love to finish the look off with a bit of cold air from the hairdryer, which allows me to set the product while creating a bit of volume.” — David D’Amours, Montreal-based hairstylist, owner of PRIVÉ par David D’Amours and Canadian editorial director for Kérastase Paris

“A flexible hairspray makes all the difference when brushing the hair out because it can really help keep the look together.” — Dan Nguyen, owner of Lure Salon in Vancouver and educator for Oribe

“WHEN YOU DON’T FINISH A LOOK, YOU DON’T LEAVE YOUR SIGNATURE ON IT. MANY HAIRSTYLISTS CAN DO THE SAME CUT AS YOU CAN, BUT WHEN YOU FINISH A LOOK AND DEVELOP YOUR OWN SIGNATURE WAY OF FINISHING A STYLE, THAT LOOK BECOMES YOURS AND IT BECOMES SPECIAL TO YOU.”

— DAREK WIERZBICKI, OWNER OF STUDIO 237 IN BELLEVILLE, ONT., AND GUEST ARTIST FOR MATRIX

PHOTOS: JOSEPH FERRARO ART TEAM, JOSEPH FERRARO HAIR, U.K., MAKEUP: GRACE HAYWARD,

WARDROBE STYLING: RUBINA MARCHIORI, PHOTO: JAMIE BLANSHARD

2.

Sleek & Straight

Sleek and straight hair is a classic go-to style seen on many different hair types, but achieving a truly polished finish takes a lot more than just a flat iron.

“A lot of it comes down to how the hair is prepared. I like to use product that’ll give moisture for control when I’m blow-drying and not dry the hair out or make it look matte. I don’t use products that are sticky because I want the hair to move, so I love to finish with a shine spray to give it that glossy, sleek look.”

— Anthony Crosfield, owner of Union Salon in Vancouver

“The key to finishing this look is not allowing the hair to sweat and using heat protectant. The idea is to not create any inner volume when blow-drying the hair,

so you want to apply volume down. To finish, an oil is a must because it will sit on the hair and give it that shine.”— Darek Wierzbicki, owner of Studio 237 in Belleville, Ont., and guest artist for Matrix

“Once I’ve blow-dried and flat-ironed the hair, I like to add hairspray at the roots and finish with cold air from the dryer on top of the roots to ensure that there are no flyaways.” — David D’Amours, Montreal-based hairstylist, owner of PRIVÉ par David D’Amours and Canadian editorial director for Kérastase Paris

Finishing All Hair Types

In need of help for finishing di erent hair types and textures? We asked finishing experts for their tips.

“Analyzing hair texture, density and porosity before starting any styling or finishing is critical to deciding what products you’re going to use. Fine hair should never be finished with any products that are heavy and will weigh it down. For coarse or thick hair, you can use much richer products.”

— Dan Nguyen, owner of Lure Salon in Vancouver and educator for Oribe

“For clients with thin or fine hair, I like to use anything that adds volume to the hair or that swells the hair, which includes powder, serum and water-based moisturizer. For thick or coarse hair, product selection is just as important. If the client has thick, straight hair, I’ll use serum and touch up the hair with an iron. But if they have thick, curly hair, the idea is to make it smoother so that it doesn’t go frizzy or have flyaways.”

— Darek Wierzbicki, owner of Studio 237 in Belleville, Ont., and guest artist for Matrix

“For straight hair, I reach for a shiny and volumizing mousse to get that shine and bounce for fullness. For wavy hair, I have a big, wide-toothed comb, and I use products that have a bit of elasticity and memory for a soft hold. For curly or coily hair, I like to mix products. For example, I’ll mix a leave-in conditioner with a crispier curl product to give me that flexibility.”

— Anthony Crosfield, owner of Union Salon in Vancouver

“If a client has naturally tight curly hair, I don’t use product with a grip because it becomes too much. The key is oil, oil and oil again. It’s important to keep in mind for curly hair that the finishing process starts when you’re cutting. You want to focus on getting the right shape at the perimeter to have the best finish.”

— Darek Wierzbicki, owner of Studio 237 in Belleville, Ont., and guest artist for Matrix

“If the hair is naturally curly, I love to use a curl cream and rework the curls with my fingers and then di use the hair. If I want to create curls that aren’t natural, I’ll use a very small curling iron, go back in with my fingers and add a texturizing spray to give the illusion that the client has a lot of hair. Remember that for curly hair, hydration is key, so starting with a good hydrating shampoo and conditioner is important.”

— David D’Amours, Montreal-based hairstylist, owner of PRIVÉ par David D’Amours and Canadian editorial director for Kérastase Paris

Updos

Whether it’s tight and sleek or loose and effortless, adding the finishing touches to an updo can make all the difference when it comes to keeping the look in place.

“I use mousse, not only to give the hair more body, but it also helps make the hair more controllable, almost like a piece of fabric. Ideally, I would do the updo on hair that’s not too clean, but if I have to wash the hair, I’ll apply dry shampoo and a bit of texturizing spray to give the hair more grip.” — David D’Amours, Montreal-based hairstylist, owner of PRIVÉ par David D’Amours and Canadian editorial director for Kérastase Paris

“Updos are one of those things that you have to ask yourself if the client is going to be able to wear it comfortably. Of course, it depends on the client, but a lot of people don’t want to look like they’ve just come out of a ballet class. With those styles, I like to use soft styling products and use the sticky products at the end to secure everything.” — Anthony Crosfield, owner of Union Salon in Vancouver

“You want some grip in the client’s roots so it can hold the bobby pins or U-pins, so root powder spray is something I use to help the style and the bobby pins stay all day. Beach spray can also give a good amount of grip, so I like to saturate the root with it and then blowdry it out before curling it. I would avoid finishing the hair with products that give a high shine or silicone feel to the hair so that everything stays much better.” — Kirsten Klontz, Torontobased hairstylist and brand ambassador for Hot Tools

PHOTOS: HAIR: GONZALO ZARAUZA AND ZIORTZA ZARAUZA, CENTRO BETA, SPAIN, MAKEUP: CENTRO BETA, WARDROBE

STYLING: VISORI

FASHIONART,

PHOTO: DAVID ARNAL, HAIR: RAQUEL SAIZ, SALÓN BLUE BY RAQUEL SAIZ, SPAIN, MAKEUP: MANUELA GIMÉNEZ, WARDROBE

STYLING: RAQUEL SAIZ, PHOTO: ESTEBAN ROCA

“FINISHING IS THE FINAL TOUCHES YOU MAKE TO SOMETHING, AND IT’S A VERY IMPORTANT ASPECT OF HAIRSTYLING. YOU COULD HAVE DONE A REALLY GREAT BLOWOUT, BUT YOU HAVE TO FINISH WITH THE RIGHT PRODUCT OR TECHNIQUE TO MAKE THE HAIR LOOK EVEN BETTER.”

— DAVID D’AMOURS, MONTREAL-BASED HAIRSTYLIST, OWNER OF PRIVÉ PAR DAVID D’AMOURS AND CANADIAN EDITORIAL DIRECTOR FOR KÉRASTASE PARIS

4.

Finger Waves and Wet Looks

Although finger waves and wet looks may not be in high demand on a daily basis, learning the technique and being able to apply it to other styles may come in handy for your special-occasion clientele, who may want to try a new look for an event or a night out.

“For a wet look, using any kind of gel and not brushing the hair out will allow you to achieve that wet look without leaving the hair actually wet. I like to use a dry texturizer through the middle and a dry wax on the ends while avoiding anything too glossy. For finger waves, a lotion or mousse that I can use a lot of before setting the waves with a comb or my fingers is really great. I won’t touch it until it dries, and if I want it to stay wet-looking, I won’t brush it out. But if the client doesn’t want it to

look wet, I will brush it out.” — Kirsten Klontz, Torontobased hairstylist and brand ambassador for Hot Tools

“I have a lot of success when I mix products. I take a heavy gel product and mix it with a cream or even add oil and it creates a heavier product. I then apply it to wet hair, create the shape I want and then let the hair set by applying a towel or net around it so the hair doesn’t break.” — Darek Wierzbicki, owner of Studio 237 in Belleville, Ont., and guest artist for Matrix

“A trick I like to do is to apply barber tape at the temples and around the back of the head to ensure that the hair stays flat to the head. For finger waves, I always reach for products with a lot of hold and shine.” — Dan Nguyen, owner of Lure Salon in Vancouver and educator for Oribe

“This type of texture can be added to many different styles, like a slick, glossy wet look on one side of the hair while having the other side cascading down. A big part of the wet look is layering the product and using products that are going to dry really shiny. When you’re doing the application, it has to be done quickly and with purpose because once it sets, it’s hard to get past it. A lot of times, I’ll use a mesh and blow-dry it, which allows the hair to set. I always finish it with a glossy hairspray to keep everything in place. You can achieve a dry finger wave by doing spiral curls, but when you’re doing them on a wet hair texture, it’s better to do it on a client who has a natural wave to their hair. Working with the product quickly and being gentle with your clips is important to remember.”

— Anthony Crosfield, owner of Union Salon in Vancouver

PRO TIP TO STOP HAIR FROM CREASING WHILE IT’S CLIPPED, CROSFIELD PLACES HIS BUSINESS CARDS IN BETWEEN THE CLIP AND THE HAIR.

Drawing its inspiration from the digital age with pop and punk influences, this Spanish collection takes bold cuts to the next level with high-contrast colour.

HAIR Encarna Moreno & María Gómez, Peluquería Encarna Moreno, Spain MAKEUP Anastasia WARDROBE STYLING Fabiola Ricci PHOTOS David Arnal

Collections

GENER ACIÓN

Collections — KALEIDOSCOPE

This British colour collection combines rich tones with wearable cuts and styles for a range of in-salon ready looks.

HAIR Fellowship Project led by Paul Dennison, U.K. MAKEUP Lucy Flower PHOTOS Richard Miles

Collections — M OTHER NATURE

Rich jewel tones and sculpted styles are brought to life in this Vancouver-based team’s collection.

CONTESSA 2022 FINALIST, CANADIAN SALON TEAM Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver MAKEUP Wendy Mao WARDROBE STYLING Erin Godden PHOTOS Phillip Chin

Collections — PURE ELE GANCE

High-fashion styles with masterful finishing techniques are showcased in this Canadian collection.

CONTESSA 2022 FINALIST, CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST Frank Dicintio, Salon Gaboa, Woodbridge, Ont. MAKEUP Rosana Toscano WARDROBE STYLING & PHOTOS Giancarlo Intini

This BHAwinning collection combines unique haircutting and styling techniques for an inspiring range of looks.

HAIR Abbie Johnson, Mark Leeson, U.K. MAKEUP Lauren Mathis WARDROBE STYLING Bernard Connolly PHOTOS Richard Miles

Collections — HYBRID

Textured cuts and whimsical styles are combined in this British collection.

HAIR Annabel Payne, Toni&Guy, U.K. MAKEUP Maddie Austin PHOTOS Alex Barron-Hough

SE VENTY

HAIR Eva González & José Salvador, Makeover Logroño, Spain MAKEUP Eva Quílez WARDROBE STYLING MIKOTO PHOTOS David Arnal

Retro-inspired cuts and streetstyle vibes collide in this Spanish collection.

Collections — NORDIC NOIR

Channelling punk and new wave trends, this Swiss collection combines strong shapes and striking styles.

HAIR Shayna & Florian Knittel, SHY + FLO, Switzerland MAKEUP Nicola Fischer WARDROBE STYLING YVY PHOTOS John Rawson

Don’t miss

largest professional beauty celebration!

SILVER

Julia Ainsley

With less than one year of in-salon experience, Edmonton-based hairstylist

Julia Ainsley wanted to use her time off during the pandemic productively while doing what she loved—hair, makeup and photo shoots—and participate in the Contessa Awards.

“This was my first collection, and I wanted to treat it as an introduction to the kind of hair I want to do behind the chair,” she says. “I just wanted to create this collection for myself. I love styling, makeup and doing hair, and I love the whole photo shoot process. It’s such a fun experience, and I was just lucky that the judges liked my collection enough for me to make it as a finalist.”

Anime Inspired

For her 2022 Emerging Hairstylist collection, Ainsley garnered inspiration from her favourite TV shows and hobbies. “Over the pandemic, I was watching a lot of anime and playing

video games,” she says. “Those two things really inspired my collection to have that whimsical feel, but I still wanted to keep the looks palatable as everyday looks. I named it ‘The Magical Girls’ collection, which references that anime archetype.”

“I really love colour, and I’m very particular about colour palettes,” she adds. “East Asian hair trends really inspire me, and those trends are often very colourful, so you can see that a lot of my inspiration for this collection came from that, too.”

To achieve the subtle water colours in her collection, Ainsley used both semipermanent colour and gloss. “I wanted to play with a lot of different colours because, at the time, I didn’t have a lot of experience,” she says. “I wanted this collection to feature the things I like and the things that I don’t often get to do on my clients. I used wigs, so I was able to really take my time with each colour

while doing a bunch of different layers and foils.”

Ainsley also curated the wardrobe for her collection and focused her efforts on keeping each look affordable yet fashion forward. “I wanted to do something very fashionable because in the real world I’m very fashion focused,” she says. “I knew the trick to choosing the wardrobe while staying within my budget would be to use fabrics and textures that looked expensive but weren’t, and I drew inspiration from the classic Chanel tweed suits because I feel like they’re very timeless.”

Do It for Yourself

As a new stylist, Ainsley wanted to use the Contessas as an opportunity to do something for herself while refining and practising her skills. “I think it’s easy to lose inspiration when you’re growing your clientele and not getting to do the hair that you want to do all the time, especially when you haven’t had the time to experiment and find your niche,” she says. “Instead of being home and depressed about the pandemic and not being able to work, I went into the salon and just worked on those wigs. I improved through the process and I’m proud of what I created. At the end of the day, what really matters is that we, as stylists, get to create what we want and what we like, and entering competitions allows us to do that.”

TEXT: LAUREN FARRUGIA, HAIR: JULIA AINSLEY, RICCI HAIR CO., EDMONTON, ALTA.,

“Competitions are a good opportunity to do what you want to do on your own terms without worrying about if a client will like it.”

MAKEUP: RENEE RAMPERSAD, WARDROBE: JULIA AINSLEY, PHOTOS: TONY RICCI

THE CONTESSA 2023 FINALISTS!

Canadian Hairstylist

James Abu-Ulba, Spa Utopia & Salon, Langley, B.C.

Rodrigo Araneda, Olab par Rodrigo, Montreal, Que.

Robynn Graham, Suzette’s, Innisfil, Ont.

Daniel Grieco, Salon Gaboa, Woodbridge, Ont.

Ken Hung, Salon Era, Richmond, B.C.

Suzanne Maurice, Changing of the Garnet, Orillia, Ont.

Nicole Pede, InStyle Salon & Spa, Aylmer, Ont.

Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton, Alta.

Josie Vilay, Hairology Studio, Winnipeg, Man.

Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont.

Canadian Colourist

Rodrigo Araneda, Olab par Rodrigo, Montreal, Que.

Danielle Degraaf, Creative Images Hair Studio, Woodstock, Ont.

Quinn Enright, Freelance, Edmonton, Alta.

Daniel Grieco, Salon Gaboa, Woodbridge, Ont.

Ken Hung, Salon Era, Richmond, B.C.

Alicia Langille, Alicia Langille Hair Art, Halifax, N.S.

Carm Manno, Tinted Love Hair Studio, Barrie, Ont.

Jessica McColm, Mekka, Edmonton, Alta.

Chelsea Sutherland, Chelsea Laine Salon and Colour Bar, New Glasgow, N.S.

Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont.

Canadian Salon Team

Evolve Hair Studio, Toronto, Ont.

local B, Montreal, Que.

Salon Cyan, London, Ont.

Salon Espace K, Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu, Que.

The Order – Hall of Hair, St. Thomas, Ont.

Thom, Vancouver, B.C.

Tinted Love Hair Studio, Barrie, Ont.

Valentini Hair Design, Guelph, Ont.

Vanity House, London, Ont.

Zinc Hair, Vancouver, B.C.

Elite Master Hairstylist

Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co., Toronto, Ont.

Anica Iordache, Modmop Hairdressing, Ottawa, Ont.

Michelle Pargee, Independent, Sechelt, B.C.

Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton, Alta.

Jason Williams, Salon Espace K, Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu, Que.

Master Colourist

Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont.

Dana Lyseng, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver, B.C.

Joan Novak, JoNo Hair, Whistler, B.C.

Chelsea Sutherland, Chelsea Laine Salon and Colour Bar, New Glasgow, N.S.

Session Hairstylist

Anica Iordache, Modmop Hairdressing, Ottawa, Ont.

Mathieu Mainville, Sans Bon Sens, Montreal, Que.

Suzanne Maurice, Changing of the Garnet, Orillia, Ont.

Kathy Simon, Mekka, Montreal, Que.

Darek Wierzbicki, Studio 237, Belleville, Ont.

Avant Garde Hairstylist

Rodrigo Araneda, Olab par Rodrigo, Montreal, Que.

Martin Menard, Salon La Loge, Québec, Que.

Lisa Schoor, InStages Salon, Winnipeg, Man.

Michael Shire, Taz Hair Co., Toronto, Ont.

Darek Wierzbicki, Studio 237, Belleville, Ont.

Collaboration

Angie Hunt, Abigail Arenas, Sonal Dodiya & Jonah Espiritu

Michelle Oliver & Quinn Enright

Michelle Pargee, Connor Lange & Denise Meikle

Marlo Steenman, Tristyn Feist & Tony Ricci

Isabel Wilson & Robynn Graham

Emerging Hairstylist

Emma Cox, Blanche MacDonald, Vancouver, B.C.

Noure Manchakian, Au Premier Coiffure Spa, Montreal, Que.

Jessica Purmal, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver, B.C.

Alix Taylor, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver, B.C.

Sharday Walker, Hairology Studio, Winnipeg, Man.

International Hairstylist

Christopher Byrne, Sloans of Lane Cove, New South Wales, Australia

Mario Fioravanti, MF Salon Priveé, North Adelaide, Australia

Jordan Hone, Sloans of North Sydney, New South Wales, Australia

Manuel Mon, Manuel Mon Estilistas, Oviedo, Spain

Rick Roberts, Rick Roberts Salon, Beverley, U.K.

Men’s Hairstylist

Ben Barkworth, JustB Salon, Toronto, Ont.

Aran Beattie, Vanity House, London, Ont.

Éric Charpentier, Coiffure Blunt, Montreal, Que.

Ken Hung, Salon Era, Richmond, B.C.

Vanessa Secondino, Salon Deauville, Montreal, Que.

Multicultural Hairstylist

Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co., Toronto, Ont.

Johanna Libbey, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver, B.C.

Michelle Oliver, Freelance, Edmonton, Alta.

Lukas Press, Lukas Press Hair Studio, Toronto, Ont.

Michael Shire, Taz Hair Co., Toronto, Ont.

Texture Hairstylist

Donna Dolphy, Donna Dolphy Hair, Toronto, Ont.

Robin LaChance, Tinted Love Hair Studio, Barrie, Ont.

Michelle Oliver, Freelance, Edmonton, Alta.

Lukas Press, Lukas Press Hair Studio, Toronto, Ont.

Isabel Wilson, Izzy’s Salon, St. Thomas, Ont.

British Columbia Hairstylist

James Abu-Ulba, Spa Utopia & Salon, Langley

Ken Hung, Salon Era, Richmond

Johanna Libbey, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver

Denise Meikle, Salon Origins, Vancouver

Michelle Pargee, Independent, Sechelt

Alberta Hairstylist

Lisa Crawford, Crawford Master Stylists Ltd., Sherwood Park

Jenna Engel, Plush Salon & Spa, Medicine Hat

Breanne Gershon, Glam Breanne, Calgary

Jessica McColm, Mekka, Edmonton

Lauren Wilde, Rose and Onyx Hair Company, St.

Saskatchewan/Manitoba Hairstylist

Baillie Fyfe, Hair-O-Glyphics, Winnipeg, Man.

Rachel Kilgour, Verde Salon, Winnipeg, Man.

Colleen Lamirande, Verde Salon, Winnipeg, Man.

Ashley Ruecker, Salon Haze, Regina, Sask.

Lisa Schoor, InStages Salon, Winnipeg, Man.

Ontario Hairstylist

Ben Barkworth, JustB Salon, Toronto

Erin Fernandes, ED Hair and Tattoo, London

Suzanne Maurice, Changing of the Garnet, Orillia Lukas Press, Lukas Press Hair Studio, Toronto

Isabel Wilson, Izzy’s Salon, St. Thomas

Quebec Hairstylist

Véronique Beaupré, local B, Montreal

Annie Blanchette, Guylaine Martel par Espace K, Mont-Saint-Hilaire

Francis Bouchard, Sans Bon Sens, Montreal

Michael Dubuc, Salon Style M, Drummondville Martin Menard, Salon La Loge, Québec

Atlantic Hairstylist

Melissa Duguay, The Savvy Shop, Dieppe, N.B.

Amanda Hodgson, Spirit Spa, Halifax, N.S.

Heidi Kenney, Heidi Kenney Hair Studio, Yarmouth, N.S.

Alicia Langille, Alicia Langille Hair Art, Halifax, N.S. Sharon LeClair, Shades of Bedford, Bedford, N.S.

Canadian Nail Artist

Anik Pouliot, Pose d’ongles Anik Pouliot, Levis, Que.

Amy Suri, Nailvenom, Brampton, Ont. Cathy Torres, Amicis, Kelowna, B.C.

Makeup Artist

Josianne Bourque, Salon La Loge, Québec, Que. Natalia Farahmand, Desiderio Beauty, Penetanguishene, Ont.

Breanne Gershon, Glam Breanne, Calgary, Alta.

Salon Interior Design

Coiffure Blunt, Montreal, Que.

LEONETTI+co Salon, Toronto, Ont.

Medulla & Co., Toronto, Ont.

One11 Beauty Bar, Innisfil, Ont. Salon Olivine, Lethbridge, Alta.

The John Steinberg Award for Community Service

Connect Hair Studio, Barrie, Ont.

Jonni’s Styling Studio, Kamloops, B.C. Salon Maxime, Québec, Que.

Visit salonmagazine.ca/contessa to see the Freestyle finalists, view the finalist collections and purchase tickets to attend the 34th annual Contessa Awards gala on November 20, 2022, in Toronto!

Work in Progress

With growing concerns about the declining number of new hairstylists joining the industry, we spoke with salon owners and managers about the importance of developing new talent in the salon—and how doing so can help your business and the industry.

As the old adage goes, “Many hands make light work,” and the salon environment is no exception. From answering phones to sweeping the floors to shampooing and blow-drying hair, salons often require extra sets of hands for day-to-day tasks to make everything run smoothly.

While new stylists may be anxious for the opportunity to work on the floor, offering apprenticeship and mentorship programs that teach handson skills can help aspiring hairstylists build confidence and help their careers flourish at a faster pace, which ultimately benefits salon owners and their teams.

“In terms of adding or retaining team members, having our apprenticeship program and growing young talent beats hiring externally by 50 per cent, if not higher,” says Bruce Peters, owner of Zazou Salon & Academy in North Vancouver.

“It’s always important to have new talent coming in,” adds Spenser Tsinokas, salon director of Valentino’s Grande Salon in Whitby, Ont. “There are always going to be stylists who quit, go on mat leave or decide to work part time, so from a business perspective, you’re always looking to make sure you have enough staff to take care of your clients.”

Make Some Noise

When it comes to encouraging new talent to join the industry, Peters says finding students for his academy has been a challenge. As a result, he believes that salons

(and the industry as a whole) should educate communities about the benefits of being a hairstylist.

For this reason, his salon has participated in several career fairs to shed light on hairstyling and teach younger generations about what it means to work in the industry. “Some people still think it doesn’t require brains to get into hairdressing, but I think we’ve debunked that stigma,” says Peters. “You can make a fantastic amount of money in this industry—for

example, you can make $100,000 a year with six weeks of vacation while working only four days a week. We need to start talking about it more in schools and in our local communities.”

While Tsinokas believes the industry can benefit from educating others on pursuing a career in hairstyling, she has noticed more teachers talking to students about getting into the trades.

“I think the industry has changed a lot,” she says. “Personally, we’ve noticed a big difference in the number of

schools offering hairstyling programs, and since we know hairdressers tend to have that passion from early on, we do a lot of work with the local schools in our area. We bring our stylists in and teach classes so that we can educate new apprentices and stylists.”

Speed of Lightning

Oftentimes, people looking to get into apprenticeship programs are deterred by the idea that they will not be doing hands-on learning. While regulations will vary per province, Peters believes in the importance of allowing apprentices to dive right into the learning experience and start working with hair after only a few weeks of being in the salon. “We want to make sure they have their hands in hair within a couple of weeks,” says Peters. “And when I say ‘hands in hair,’ I mean more than just shampooing hair; I mean colouring hair and learning how to cut hair.”

“It’s definitely very important for them to get hands-on experience, so we have an assistant program in our salon as well,” adds Tsinokas. “Anyone who is in hair school or thinking about hair school can sign up as an apprentice before they even start the school program. That way, they’re learning how to apply toner, shampoo hair and learn about formulas before they go to school. I’ve seen it make a huge difference. They seem to absorb the information so much more because they’ve been in the salon environment and are seeing and working in it on a daily basis. We’ve noticed a huge difference in those who start their apprenticeships.”

“We love seeing people who started out as new talent in our training program become senior and master stylists,” she adds. “It’s a source of pride for everyone involved. Because they started at such a young age or at a lower level, they really feel that pride when they work up to those higher levels.”

While having apprentices in the salon can benefit both staff and clients, Peters says they can help the salon in the long run by speeding up future hiring processes when they want to fill a position. Allowing apprentices to get to know the routine right away gives salon owners the option to hire someone internally. “When we take on people who have graduated from an accredited school, it’s fantastic being able to see

Getting To The Root Of It

For newer hairstylists who have chosen to leave salons and go freelance or work independently, Peters says they don’t always fully understand what comes with being their own boss and managing everything on their own.

“Whether it’s managing their own business, owning their own space, renting a chair or opening a business, a lot of them aren’t equipped to do that,” says Peters. “They don’t have the willingness or the determination to do it.”

In addition to fully communicating with hairstylists who are looking to explore the freelance route, Peters uses payroll projectors and calculators to make stylists aware of what it truly means to be independent. “This strategy also helps them realize if they will make more money if they leave the salon,” he says.

“Trends are constantly changing in the industry, so it’s really important to keep up on education, not only for new talent but also for seniors and masters,” says Tsinokas. “It keeps them passionate and motivated to learn new things so that they never feel stagnant.”

While offering an apprenticeship provides a learning experience for new talent, Tsinokas and Peters believe that it’s a mutually beneficial relationship. “We couldn’t run without our apprentices,” she says. “They help make sure our clients are having a great experience and keep our stylists on time by offering them assistance in different areas.”

“We can’t survive without our apprentices,” adds Peters. “They’re a vital part of our organization. It’s a twoway street. Stylists foster people, but having an effective personal assistant can increase stylists’ income by 30 to 50 per cent. I think all hairstylists should have one if they’ve got the support and demand.”them come out of that environment with little confidence in their skills and then go on the floor with a tremendous amount at the end,” says Peters. “They really shine after a period of time because they understand both soft skills and hard skills.”

With constantly changing hair trends and demands, it’s important to provide new talent and apprentices with enough motivation to grow their skills regularly.

—SPENSER TSINOKAS, SALON DIRECTOR OF VALENTINO’S GRANDE SALON IN WHITBY, ONT.

“IT BUILDS A LOT OF TRUST AND COMMITMENT IN YOUR SALON AND YOUR TEAM WHEN YOU PUT ALL THAT MONEY AND EDUCATION INTO A NEW STYLIST. THEY CAN SEE THAT YOU REALLY VALUE THEM BY MAKING THAT INVESTMENT, AND I THINK IT REALLY BUILDS A STRONG FOUNDATION FOR A RELATIONSHIP THAT LASTS.”

Beyond Beautiful

BY LAUREN FARRUGIA

With experience working in several different salons, Jillian Ripplinger focused all of her creativity and inspiration into opening her own salon, Honeycomb Hair Lounge.

“When I was in my 20s, I wanted to travel and experience cultures, so I moved to Australia in 2019, and I was there for about nine months. I’ve had a longing to go there and, throughout that time, I felt an immense amount of creativity and inspiration just from the culture and how environmentally friendly they were,” she says. “In my 30s, I wanted to open a business, so when I came home from Australia, I knew I wanted to open a salon that was inspired by nature.”

Ripplinger had originally imagined opening a small space for herself and another stylist, but things didn’t go as planned. “When I was looking at smaller spaces, none of them was really what I was looking for,” she says. “Then I ended up coming across this beautiful space in the Warehouse District in Regina. It was already designed beautifully, and although it was a lot bigger than what I had planned, it’s where we ended up.”

Personal Touches

Regina’s Warehouse District is made up of older and unique warehouse spaces with a lot of character and, luckily for Ripplinger, her space came pre-renovated. “The business that was

it with plants and minimalist decor.”

As she was inspired by Australia’s nature, Ripplinger wanted a space that featured clean and minimal lines while also adding a bit of a feminine touch with flowers and greenery to make the space feel cozy and like home.

“My family has been a huge part of Honeycomb,” she says. “My parents are really handy and actually flipped homes before helping me with the salon, so they had a lot of experience with renovations. My dad had a lot of the handyman duties, and I did a lot of the interior design.”

DIY Details

Honeycomb Hair Lounge was also inspired by Ripplinger’s fascination with bees. “I’ve always thought that bees are very cute, and I know that they’ve been endangered from crop pollution,” she says. “Without bees, we wouldn’t have a lot of the foods we eat and the flowers we get to enjoy, so I just found that to be a really good starting point for a name and decor, which led me to our design.”

here before us was a plaster company and they did a lot of different designs in the space to showcase their work to their customers, so we already had a well-designed space,” she says. “After that, it was a matter of making it work for us and for a salon; we painted the walls, added a sink area to what used to be a storage room and did a majority of the other renovations in the back, like our staff room and a private space that we rent out to a massage therapist. The space had a great design already, and we just got to add the Honeycomb touch to ➤

“I think our “HC” wall, which features cascading greenery over our logo, is one of my favourite things in the salon,” she adds. “I made it out of a metal black ladder that I wove greenery through, and I change the flowers every season. Our clients always compliment it, and it’s a really great place to take photos of our clients’ hair. It’s one of the big focal points of our salon.”

Interiors

Learn how this Regina-based salon owner offers an elevated experience for her guests with her nature-inspired space.

Ripplinger also decided to include her old vintage bicycle in the design by hanging it over her sink area as a way to recycle and to serve as a reminder for herself to keep moving forward.

“Wine” Not?

One of the most fun aspects of Ripplinger’s salon is the coffee and cocktail bar, which enables her and her team to serve their clients drinks during their appointments—all of which feature honey or flowers as another way

MURRAY

to incorporate bees into her design. “I’ve worked in salons that offered wine, but I thought why not have something that’s a little bit more ‘bougie,’” she says.

“Clients often come in for two or three hours, so why not give them cocktails and really great coffee? When we got the space, there was already a coffee station, and we just took it to the next level by adding some floating shelves and a fridge. It almost felt like everything I wanted to have in the salon was already in this space.”

“We host an event called ‘Neon

Nights,’ where we do blow-drys, play music and have a bunch of neon lights and signs going. We serve cocktails, and clients can come in with their friends for a girls’ night or to get their hair done before they go out, and it’s been really fun and successful so far,” she adds. “Having the bar is great for the clients, but it also serves as a really great marketing tool because every time we deliver a beverage to a client, they take a photo and post it, so it’s a great way to get our name out there while offering a unique experience for each client.”

Inspiring Talent at the 2022 Kao Salon Global Experience

After hosting a virtual event for the past two years, Kao returned to a live, in-person event at the RAI Amsterdam Convention Centre in the Netherlands.

When & Where: October 2–3, Amsterdam

The gold, silver and bronze global winners were announced during the Kao Global Creative Awards gala, hosted by John Moroney, Kao Salon Division’s VP of creative and communication and global creative director.

Artists and ambassadors from around the world took the stage for the artist sessions, which featured Frank Cini and Daniel Naumovski from Taz Hair Co. in Toronto.

PHOTOS:

Among the live competitors was Creative Haircutter finalist Denise Meikle from Salon Origins in Vancouver, Creative Colorist finalist Jagoda Hall from Salon Cyan in London, Ont., and Emily Kooistra from Salon Cyan in London, Ont., who took home the silver award for New Talent Colorist! Mike Parsons, general manager for Kao Canada Salon Division, was also in attendance, along with Michael Shire from Taz Hair Co. in Toronto, who was a finalist for Avant Garde Hairstylist.

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Dominic Pratt, president of Kao Salon Division, welcomed attendees and shared some of the company’s goals and success stories.

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The night also featured spectacular presentations by Goldwell global ambassadors Angelo Seminara and Mario Krankl.

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More than 1,000 entries were received in the photo-based competition, and the gold winners from each participating country travelled to Amsterdam to compete in the live competition.

Attendees had the chance to tour the new location, mingle, browse the salon’s wide range of professional products and even get their hair done by the salon’s stylists.

Inside the Grand Opening of Chatters’ New Store

The new location was designed in partnership with Sandra Fiore, creative director at Fiore + Greco Design Inc.

Chatters hosted a grand opening event for its new store at Trinity Common Mall in Brampton, Ont.

When & Where: September 22, Brampton, Ont.

Attendees had the opportunity to receive personalized illustrations from Michael Hak, a Toronto-based fashion illustrator.

When asked about the space’s design, LorimerStewart shared the brand hopes that their guests feel inspired after walking in. “Inspired to discover their new favourite haircare products, test hair tools at our testing bar with the expert guidance of our beauty consultants and walk out feeling like their best self after visiting our stylists in the salon,” she adds. “No matter how big or small the service, we aim to have our guests leaving ‘style happy.’”

Also in attendance was celebrity hairstylist and Chatters brand ambassador Cindy Duplantis, who spent the night styling guests’ hair.

Chatters vice-president of marketing and branding Lindsay Lorimer-Stewart was joined at the event by the brand’s senior manager of marketing and branding, Jessica Pecora, as well as manager of influencer marketing, Brianne Arpa.

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PHOTOS: CHATTERS

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