Salon Magazine, November/December 2016

THE

ULTIMATE INTERIORS

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 8799 Highway 89, Alliston, Ont., Canada L9R 1V1

ISSUE

28TH ANNUAL

CONTESSA AWARD FINALISTS!

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AMERICAN CREW ALL-STAR CHALLENGE THE MEN’S STYLING AND GROOMING COMPETITION

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men in the world. The cut. The model. The photograph. Bring it all together to create your

Professional Brands World Show (Spring 2017), $1000 cash prize, $500 product prize, full page feature in select industry media.

ultimate interpretation of the American Crew man. We want the best stylist on the planet.

One with a truly unique, artistic vision. One who understands what it takes to create a masculine, modern edge. And one who captures their masterpiece with the professionallevel art direction and photography. If you’ve got what it takes, start perfecting your style, because The American Crew All-Star Challenge is bigger and better than ever.

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Twirl into the winter season with The Great Ice-Scape collection from Gelish and Morgan Taylor. Inspired by the beautiful art of figure skating, the collection offers a soft pink, milky blue, dusty mauve and a copper shimmer to lift your spirits during the winter months.

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NOVEMBER+DECEMBER.16 SALONMAGAZINE.CA FEATURES 50

RECOS FOR A GREAT RENO Renovations are inevitable for any busy salon. To plan your next one, we speak with salon owners who share helpful tips from their renovation experiences.

53

THE GREEN EFFECT

56

SEVEN SECRETS FOR HIRING YOUR SALON DESIGNER

Reduce your salon’s carbon footprint with tips from leading eco-friendly salons.

Salon design is a huge part of your client’s experience, so we’ve narrowed down the top seven things to keep in mind when hiring a designer.

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COLLECTIONS

76

CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR AWARDS

Jesse Ervin, Sharon Blain; Stacey Abdella; Kaitlin Belland; Rob Gaspar; Nadia Semanic; Vivienne Mackinder; Lianne Beckers Baggermans

It’s here! The highly anticipated finalist list for the 28th annual Contessa Awards.

72

LIANNE BECKERS BAGGERMANS, AVANTI KAPPERS, NETHERLANDS

ON OUR COVER:

Michael & Michael, Chicago Designer: EMM Architecture + Design Photo: Dave Burk

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s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

©2016 OPI PRODUCTS INC. • CALL 800.341.9999 OR VISIT OPI.COM • MODEL IS WEARING I BELIEVE IN MANICURES • BREAKFAST AT TIFFANY’S ©2016 PARAMOUNT PICTURES. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. AUDREY HEPBURN™ & LOGO IMAGE™-TRADEMARK, COPYRIGHT ©2012 AND LIKENESS PROPERTY OF SEAN HEPBURN FERRER AND LUCA DOTTI - ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.

i believe that

HAPPY girls are the PRETTIEST GIRLS —Audrey Hepburn

I BELIEVE IN MANICURES —

one of the Holiday shades inspired by the iconic movie, available in GelColor, Infinite Shine and Nail Lacquer • #OPIxBreakfastatTiffanys • opi.com

REGULARS 20 22

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

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SALONMAGAZINE.CA

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68

NADIA SEMANIC, TONI & GUY, AUSTRALIA

70

VIVIENNE MACKINDER, HAIRDESIGNERTV, NEW YORK

EDITOR’S LETTER

This month at SalonMagazine.ca

HAIRLINES Heat up this season with the latest products and styling tips, plus our festive nail polish picks.

77

CONTESSA GALLERY

78

PROFILE

80

BUSINESS

82

Rita Stirpe, Contessa 27 Finalist, Makeup Artist of the Year

Cutting Through Education, Peter Gray

How to plan out your finances for your next salon design project.

INTERIORS Take a trip around the world as we look at salons that are pushing the interior design envelope.

94

EVENTS

98

BEST NINE

66

82

WORLDLY INSPIRATION

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SEVEN SECRETS FOR HIRING YOUR SALON DESIGNER

PHOTO:THINKSTOCK

FINALIST, CONTESSA 27 ALBERTA HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR, ROB GASPAR

salonmagazine.ca

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REAL. AUT HENTIC. WHOLESOME. Discover the new R.A.W. feel.

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5 REASONS

EDITOR’S LETTER

TO LOVE

ELEVATEMAGAZINE.COM

grateful FOR

THE OPPORTUNITY

I

n our crazy busy lives, sometimes it’s the little things that matter most. Whether you’re exchanging a smile or greeting with your neighbour, enjoying a sunny summer afternoon with

your children or having an extra 15 minutes of snooze time on a

Discover why you should attend our new and exclusive anti-aging & beauty EVENTS! SIMPLER NAVIGATION gets you the latest anti-aging, beauty and plastic surgery news faster!

much to be thankful for in our lives, and I know I’m not alone when I say that sometimes we need to refocus on what we’ve got.

Each year, reading through the entries for the John Steinberg Award for Community Service reminds me of the incredible work being done by Canadian hairstylists and salon owners from coast to coast. Whether you work in a salon in a small town in the Prairies or a metropolitan centre in the heart of Ontario, there are countless ways that many salon and beauty professionals are making a major difference in their communities.

Even more striking than the fundraising events (which ranged from hosting fashion shows to donating their cutting skills in

Read Elevate ANYWHERE with ISSUU. Android users rejoice!

Get the FACTS about cosmetic procedures with the improved PROCEDURE DIRECTORY. Locate a doctor for your next treatment in the FIND A DOCTOR section.

Elevate Magazine celebrated big wins at the Canadian Online Publishing Awards, held on November 19, with Gold for Best Website Design and Silver for Best Media Website!

support of local charities this year) was the way that multiple salons rallied together alongside their fellow salon owners and hairstylists in support of their communities. It’s these connections that really cultivate community spirit.

As we get ready to celebrate the very best in our industry at this year’s Contessa Awards, let’s remember what we’re all really here for: to celebrate one another’s successes. While all the finalists (look to page 82 for the complete list) can’t be winners, there is much to be said for bringing your creative vision to life and sharing it with your peers—we’re grateful that you have. And if you’re not able to join us in Toronto on November 6, you can catch all the action and excitement on live online via webcast.

Anna Lee Boschetto Editor-in-Chief

Find me on Facebook at SalonMag, on Twitter and Instagram @SalonMagazine or email me at Annalee@SalonMagazine.ca.

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PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP: DIANA CARREIRO

1 2 3 4 5

rainy day, these connections are what life is about. There is so

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logo are trademarks of Creative Nail Design, Inc. ©2016 Creative Nail Design, Inc. CND™, SHELLAC™, DURAFORCE™ and the

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PUBLISHER’S NOTE ISSN 1197-1495 volume 25 issue 15

s a l onm a ga z i ne . c a

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Anna Lee Boschetto 416.869.3131 ext.102 annalee@salonmagazine.ca ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR

Stephanie MacDonald 416.869.3131 ext.113 stephanie@salonmagazine.ca EDITOR-IN-CHIEF (FRENCH)

Yasmin Grothé 514.553.4404 yasmin@salonmagazine.ca ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Veronica Boodhan 416.869.3131 ext.119 veronica@salonmagazine.ca DESIGNER

Gareth Adamson 416.869.3131 ext.106 gareth@salonmagazine.ca DIGITAL EDITOR

Erin Torrance 416.869.3131 ext.122 erin@salonmagazine.ca

W

GET YOUR GAME on!

COPY EDITOR

Corinna Reeves CONTRIBUTORS

Paul Chmieloweic, Ashley Kowalewski GROUP PUBLISHER

Laura Dunphy 416.869.3131 ext.110 laura@salonmagazine.ca U.S.A. SALES REPRESENTATIVE

e all know that salon retailing is still a big hurdle for a lot

Samantha Anobile 310.926.9288 SamanthaAnobile1@gmail.com

of beauty pros. After all the years I’ve been around salons,

ACCOUNT MANAGER

Wendy Lee Hynes 416.869.3131 ext.108 wendy@salonmagazine.ca

I can’t really understand why there’s so much resistance.

PRODUCTION MANAGER

But one thing I’m pretty sure about is that if you’re not retailing in

Alan Swinton 416.869.3131 ext.111 production@salonmagazine.ca

today’s marketplace, you’re missing out on some serious revenue.

OPERATIONS MANAGER

Karren Han 416.869.3131 ext.118 karren@salonmagazine.ca

With overhead costs going up and less-frequent client visits, salon

CIRCULATION MANAGER

Target Audience Management Inc. T. 905.729.1288 F. 905.729.0227 salon@mysubscription.ca

profit margins are shrinking. Several big salons have told me that they simply couldn’t get by without their retail revenue. Just this week,

BUSINESS ADMINISTRATOR

Nicole Lippay 416.869.3131 ext.114 nicole@salonmagazine.ca

another successful sales consultant disclosed that one of her major

CHAIRMAN

salons told her that if she didn’t have this particular super-popular

Brian Light 416.869.3131 ext.104 brian@salonmagazine.ca

brand, she might not be in business today.

ASSISTANT TO THE CHAIRMAN

Pam Fulford

As we move into the busiest retail season of the year, it’s high time

VICE-PRESIDENT & WEST COAST EDITOR

that all the naysayers get in the retail game. It’s the perfect time to try a

Greg Robins 604.561.4971 greg@salonmagazine.ca

new retail strategy, like a 30-day retail challenge. Consider this a spinoff

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of the 30-day yoga challenge. Ask your staff what type of incentive they would like to receive: commission, education or tickets to the Contessas. And for the retail-shy professional, try the “sell what you love” strategy—after all, if you’re using it to create your client’s look,

A D D RE SS CH A NGE S Email: salon @ mysubscription.ca

Fax: 705.434.9052 Phone: 1.866.764.0227 or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services

she’ll love to have it in her kit at home. I’ve seen it myself in salons: when someone is passionate about a product (or movie or restaurant),

8799 Highway 89, Alliston, ON L9R 1V1

she has no trouble telling every single client about it.

SA LON M AGA Z INE

It’s also worth considering whether or not your retail is appropriate

183 Bathurst Street Suite 202 Toronto, ON, M5T 2R7 T. 416.869.3131 F. 416.869.3008

for your clientele. A good distributor sales consultant can be a

641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada Ltd.)

valuable resource in helping you select the best mix of products, too. There’s a retail fix for just about everyone who walks through your doors. Imagine what your business would look like if this really works. Think about how much your bottom line would improve, not to mention how much it would offset your own holiday spending. Plus, you would set yourself up for retail success in 2017. Once you realize that it’s not as onerous as you thought, you’ll be on the right course.

Laura Dunphy Publisher

PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, MAKEUP: LANAGMAKEUP.COM

and many will even help set up your retail area to make it attractive,

Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, 8799 Highway 89, Alliston, ON L9R 1V1 Canada

National Magazine Awards GOLD

SILVER

2008 2003 2002 1998 1995

2009 2003 2001 1997 1996

TOP FIVE

2009 2008 2002/2001 2000/1999 1996

Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40011270

Printed on recyclab

This magazine is recyclable.

Please recycle where facilites exist.

We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada through the Canada Periodical Fund of the Department of Canadian Heritage.

The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

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From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail salon@tamicirc.ca.

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HAIR TO FALL IN LOVE WITH KERASILK PREMIUM HAIR CARE www.goldwell.com/kerasilk

For availability of Goldwell Haircare Products across Canada call

Client Services: 1-877-670-6767

online at

#SALON FOR THE HOLIDAYS #INSPO FOR THE HOLIDAYS

We want to see your holiday updos and nail art designs!

Tag us in your pictures on Twitter and Instagram with the hashtag #SalonfortheHolidays for a chance to be featured on our feeds.

COUNTDOWN TO #CONTESSA2017 The biggest night of the year is fast approaching.

Get your tickets online now (for the first time ever!) at SalonMagazine.ca/Contessa and reserve your seat before they’re all gone. Reading this a little too late?

Watch the gala live online on November 6.

See Our Total Transformation Photo Contest Winner!

Congratulations to Yadge Lukasz of Sparks Salon in Toronto, who won our “So You Think You Can Style?” competition! Visit SalonMagazine.ca to see what went into this modern Bohemian-inspired transformation.

SalonMag 24

Salon_Magazine

s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 6

SalonMagazine

HIGH & LOW DESIGN In this online exclusive, we’re keeping price in mind because, well, #budgetprobs, right? With fab finds for both big and small budgets, we cover flooring, lighting and stations that will make any interior look professional and polished, even if you’re counting nickels.

Find it at SalonMagazine.ca.

See all of the complete collections in this issue at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections!

Salon Magazine

PHOTOS: HAIR:YADGE LUKASZ; MAKEUP: PRERNA KUMAR; PHOTO: BASIA LUKASZ, MAJA HAJDUK,THINKSTOCK

BEFORE

SalonMagazine salonmagazine.ca

Inspiration Great Lengths is the modern authority on hair extension creativity. No other brand of hair extensions has won more global awards, have more industry accolades or more glowing consumer reviews than Great Lengths. Our Artisans continue to be the most creative hair stylists on the planet.

Our commitment to creativity, innovation, imagination and service continue to make Great Lengths the world’s leading Hair Extension brand.

What’s in your salon?

Visit our website to learn more about our hair extensions and view our 2016 educational seminar schedule.

www.greatlengthscanada.com COLLECTION BY ANGELO SEMINARA

BosDefense for Color-Treated Hair

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HAIRLINES NEWS

French Flair Help your clients embrace French style with Majirel French Browns from L’Oréal Professionnel.

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: AMERICAN CREW, L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

BECOME A GROOMING GURU Refine your grooming prowess with American Crew’s Master of Men’s Grooming Program.

With the combination of core barbering and cosmetology with cutting-edge styling techniques, the new American Crew Master of Men’s Grooming Program provides insightful step-bystep guides for creating some of the

There’s something about effortless, chic Parisian culture that exudes elegance and style, so it’s no wonder that L’Oréal Professionnel has looked to its Parisian roots for the inspiration behind the brand’s new Majirel French Browns. The seven new shades range from copper to ash brown and provide clients with natural-looking hues with a sophisticated French vibe. Ooh la la!

For a how-to tutorial video featuring Majirel French Browns and L’Oréal Professionnel Canada ambassador Matthew Collins, visit SalonMagazine.ca.

Bonding Breakthrough MAINTAIN THE INTEGRITY OF YOUR CLIENTS' HAIR WITH THE NEW SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL IGORA ROYAL HIGHLIFTS.

brand’s most iconic men’s looks, such

Bonders have taken the industry by storm, and now Schwarzkopf

as The Pompadour, The Crew and The

Professional is taking the benefits of bonders to the next level.

Boxer. The certificate-training program

Formulated for cool blondes, the new Igora Royal Highlifts

aims to help its educators refine their

features the brand’s patented Fibre Bond Technology, with active

skills, build and maintain a successful

ingredients that penetrate the hair and create a protective layer

and loyal client base and become leaders in the industry. Online courses

around the hair bonds, allowing the bonds to retain their elasticity and strength. Igora Royal Highlifts simplifies the colouring

will be available beginning next year,

process by eliminating the need for an additive for the colour

so stay tuned to americancrew.com for

crème and protects hair throughout the lifting process while

more information and availability.

salonmagazine.ca

achieving up to five levels of lift.

n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 6

salon

27

HAIRLINES NEWS

” W A R A “ AC H APPR O

re air ca me h o atrix. s le . by M who .W a s .A t R n clie lage Give h Bio e wit c n ie l r expe natura ney, mbine o c s ith ho rmula usk w o h f a ’s me o e k sesa s quin The lin d blac such a n a s t il n o ie ut m ingred cocon ed fro y with sourc la e c r a n s. li h kao whic locale efruit, exotic p t a s r o g — with ld’s m cerns e wor ir con h a t h f o n o mm (for some ree co cover t, ir), Re ting th a e h g r ll (for fla a u T Uplift dr y, d r d o n (f a ) h hair our Nouris ides y sitized . prov d, sen e .W s s .A e R str . iolage needs air)—B care it e h fine h t h wit ’ hair clients

Bond Fusion by Keune arms colour-treated hair with unprecedented protection.

With more and more clients thinking outside of the box when it comes to their hair colour, the protection of hair bonds has never been so important. Bond Fusion by Keune is a three-phase system including Phase 1, the Bond Builder, which is added to the lightening or colour formula to protect hair, repair broken bonds and create new bonds. In Phase 2, the Bond Enhancer is applied to the hair as a deep nourishing treatment that strengthens and seals the bonds, and provides long-lasting conditioning to the hair. In Phase 3, the Bond Recharger provides clients with a home maintenance product that prolongs the benefits of the Bond Fusion system. Clients are sure to notice a significant difference in their hair, including strands that are twice as strong, with up to 43 per cent less breakage.

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Magic Wand PUSH THE BOUNDARIES OF BLONDE COLOUR WITH THE PRAVANA BLONDE WAND AND PURE LIGHT CRÈME LIGHTENER. Going lighter in the fall/winter has been a huge colour trend this year. To get your clients’ hair to the right “light,” the new Pravana duo lightens up to seven levels and speeds up the lightening process while conditioning hair. The Blonde Wand is a thermal tool used to fully process foil highlights in seconds, while the Pure Light Crème Lightener is enriched with coconut oil, which conditions strands throughout the lightening process.

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: KEUNE, MATRIX, PRAVANA

UNITED FRONT

salonmagazine.ca

COLOR WELLNESS COLLECTION ®

CONCENTRATED COLOR PROTECTION R High Performance Hair Care R Created for Colorists Worldwide R Color Retention Reimagined Available at:

and Other Professional Distributors Globally

www.MalibuC.com/Prof n 1.800.622.7332 Formulated Without: Gluten, Parabens and Sulfates

HAIRLINES NEWS

Pure Perspective ABBA Pure Performance Hair Care relaunches its full line of products.

For more than 25 years, ABBA Pure Performance Hair Care has been committed to purity with its ProQuinoa Complex of quinoa, barley and soy, which strengthens and repairs damaged hair.

The newly revamped product line contains a wide range of styling products and six shampoo and conditioner duos for colour protection,

Have Your Say! Cast your vote for this year’s Contessa Fan Favourite.

moisture, volume, gentle

While the Contessa Awards can be quite competitive, it’s time to have some

care and recovery. As an

fun and vote for the Fan Favourite award! The online voting competition

added bonus, many of the

invites your family, friends and peers to vote for their favourite collection.

shampoos contain mild

The voting runs from October 16 to 30, with the winner announced at the

surfactants, which help

Contessa gala on November 6. So get your voting squad together and head

maintain hair colour. ABBA

to SalonMagazine.ca/FanFavourite to vote and for more information.

Pure Performance Hair Care vegan and free of gluten, parabens and sulfates.

Free Your Mind Get hands-on using freehand colouring techniques with the Kevin.Murphy Freestyle.Lightener.

Freehand colour has been on the rise, and with the new clay-based lightener from Color.Me by Kevin.Murphy you can create soft, natural-looking colour with fuss-free application. Formulated with kaolin clay, which contains silica to naturally detoxify the hair and remove impurities, the lightener provides colourists with maximum control. It provides a perfect consistency that prevents bleeding and dripping while strengthening and increasing hair’s elasticity to help slow down the aging process.

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PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: ABBA, CONTESSA 27 SESSION HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR AND FAN FAVOURITE, MARILYN VENDITTELLI, VALVANO SALON, ST. CATHARINES, ONT., MAKEUP: MEAGHAN BELL, STYLING: MARILYN VENDITTELLI, PHOTO: KALE FRIESEN, KEVIN.MURPHY

products are 100 per cent

salonmagazine.ca

Introducing a breakthrough in Organic Hairspray

New weightless and non-aerosol, Organic Orange Blossom Hairspray, features the combined dynamic strength of organic ingredients; Aloe Leaf Juice, Agave Stem Extract and Sugar Cane to block humidity, lock out frizz and build style endurance.

Free from Sulphates • Parabens • Pesticides • Propylene Glycol USDA Certified Organic • 100% Vegan • Gluten Free

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HAIRLINES NEWS

LOCKS ON LOCKDOWN +

Look Good, Feel Good Mask your clients’ hair insecurities with FHI Brands Hair Veil.

PROTECT COLOURTREATED HAIR FROM FADING WITH THE

Thinning hair is a growing concern among

NEW VIBRANT SEXY

clients, with men and women experiencing

HAIR COLOR LOCK

sparseness in their hair due to age, health

HAIRSPRAY FROM

or genetics. To tackle their concerns, the

SEXY HAIR.

Hair Veil powder filler hides hair imperfections and creates the appearance of a fuller head

We know the benefits that

of hair. Available in eight colours, ranging

a colour-safe shampoo and

from silver and blondes to red, brown and

conditioner can have on your

black shades, the powder is applied with

clients’ newly coloured locks,

a diagonal, custom-designed brush for

but Sexy Hair has gone one

precise application. The filler can also help

step further with the new

conceal scalp scars and fill in regrowth.

Color Lock Hairspray. Infused

With the powder’s water-resistant, fade-

with rose and almond oil

and transfer-proof finish, clients can rest

for soft and shiny hair, the

assured that their look will last all day long.

hairspray also features UV colour protection, which protects colour from fading when exposed to the sun.

The hairspray is formulated to dry quickly while keeping hair manageable and soft to the touch.

TOOLBOX

“

Quickly heats up to 450°F, with custom digital temperature display

One of the things I love is that it’s so easy to use and it works for all hair types.

Salons get so busy around the holidays, so being able to create so many different looks with one tool is so convenient.

– Lucas Doney, international trainer for John Paul Mitchell Systems

32

9-ft swivel cord with hanging loop for flexibility

s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 6

”

Creates versatile styles, including waves, curls and ringlets with the three interchangeable IsoTherm titanium barrels (1" styling rod, .75" small styling cone and 1.25" styling cone)

Mode button features convenient auto shutoff option and pre-set temperatures for all hair types

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: SEXY HAIR, FHI BRANDS, JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS

Paul Mitchell Neuro Unclipped 3-in-1

salonmagazine.ca

partners for a sustainable beauty industry

it’s too late to be a

pessimist...

michael “ miller VP/General Manager Joico Canada

We at Joico Canada, a proud Green Circle Salons partner, care deeply about the environment and sustainability. As a company, we have significantly reduced our manufacturing and packagingrelated waste since 2011. As part of the Green Circle Salons Movement, we can help salons reduce their waste and impact through practical, innovative and easy-to-implement solutions.

It is a win, not just for our planet, but for everyone involved.

join our movement to keep people and the planet beautiful 1 877 424 3327 info@greencirclesalons.ca www.greencirclesalons.ca

”

HAIRLINES NEWS

MOISTURE MARVELS

QUENCH DRY HAIR WITH THE NEWLY REVAMPED URBAN MOISTURE LINE FROM SHU UEMURA. This hydro-nourishing product line for dry hair includes the purifying and antioxidant powers of moringa and red algae extracts, which moisturize hair while providing a daily protection shield. The Urban Moisture Shampoo and Conditioner gently cleanse and condition, while the Treatment provides a deeply rich conditioning and the Double Serum provides hair with softness and shine. The product line provides clients with all the nourishment their hair needs to survive this season’s driest, coldest conditions.

COLOUR RUSH Maintain your clients’ hair throughout the cold months with colour tips from Malibu C.

holidays, clients want their hair to be on point throughout the season. Nicole Emiliani, lead colour educator and master platform artist for Malibu C, says preserving

From cleansing to finishing, bring out the best from your hairstyles this season with R+Co’s product range.

healthy, shiny hair is a priority. “The biggest colour

Get hair ready to tackle the dip in temperatures

Mixer Cocktails. “I love using toners and glazes for an

with the brand’s four latest products. The

extra ‘pop’ of colour that can enhance the richness of

Cactus Texturizing Shampoo includes a blend

colour. My clients always say the added boost of shine

of texture-building particles that bring out hair’s natural texture while adding extra grit for

concerns that clients usually have in the fall and winter months are focused around hair feeling dry or brittle,” says Emiliani, who recommends the brand’s Concent8

really makes a difference.” Since clients are hopping from event to event, she recommends ensuring that they

more manageability. Give hair an extra dose

are well equipped to preserve their colour-treated locks

of nourishment with the Palm Springs Pre-

at home. “To maintain colour in between services, all

shampoo Treatment Mask, which contains a

of my colour clients go home with the Color Wellness

custom cocktail of oils, butters and extracts that

Kit, which includes a highly concentrated shampoo and

strengthen and condition hair. The High Dive

conditioner duo,” she explains. “Also, the Miracle Repair

Moisture + Shine Crème works to smooth out

Wellness Reconstructor packets are designed for weekly

the hair, and the Grid Structural Hold Setting Spray adds style memory while providing longlasting protection from heat and frizz.

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With photos being snapped more than ever during the

s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 6

use to deliver intensive hair therapy, which is especially beneficial for colour clients who are highly oxidized and in need of that extra weekly care.”

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: SHU UEMURA,THINKSTOCK, R+CO

Set Your Style

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Custom Color.

For Your Eyes Only. www.refectocilnorthamerica.com

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HAIRLINES NAILS

Timeless Elegance Breakfast at Tiffany’s lives on in OPI’s holiday collection.

No one can forget Audrey Hepburn’s delightful portrayal of socialite Holly Golightly in the iconic Breakfast at Tiffany’s. Now, more than 50 years later, the classic film still resonates with us all, which is why it’s also the inspiration

A colourful CELEBRATION

behind OPI’s holiday collection.

Available in the brand’s nail lacquer, Infinite Shine and GelColor lines, the collection includes fun (and aptly named)

Add a festive pop of colour with CND’s Creative Play Celebration.

shades like Champagne for Breakfast, Girls Love Pearls and Black Dress Not Optional

The brand’s latest collection makes it easier than ever for you

that are sure to bring out your

to keep up with all of your clients’ changing nail looks. With

clients’ inner socialite.

eight dazzling shades, including Happy Holly Day, Naughty or Vice and Extravaglint, the traditional lacquer collection is this season’s perfect retail add-on. Whether your client drops in to try out a new shade or brings a bottle home for on-the-go touchups, the collection is sure to have their nails sparkling throughout all their holiday festivities.

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ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN

ORLY

MORGAN TAYLOR

Light up the night with the Holiday Nights collection, with festive shades such as But First, Champagne! and I’ve Been Good-ish.

Hit the Sunset Strip this season with Orly’s range of autumn/winter shades, such as Up All Night and Invite Only.

Glam up your clients with opulent colours such as Let’s Get Frosty and Girl Meets Joy from the Wrapped in Glamour collection.

SPARITUAL

ESSIE

LCN

Get a “Rise” out of your client’s nails with SpaRitual’s Gold Rise range of holidayready shades, including Take a Stand and Come Together.

Give nails a mod flair with the bronzed mahogany Ready to Boa and dove grey Go with the Flowy from Essie’s winter collection.

Bring out your client’s sultry side with Provoking Divas, a collection featuring red-hot and glittery shades like Steamy Hot and Diamonds and Caviar.

s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 6

TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN; PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: KEYSTONE PRESS AGENCY, OPI, CND, MORGAN TAYLOR, LCN, ORLY, ESSIE, ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN, SPARITUAL

Shine Bright

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ELEVATE

I N PA R T N E R S H I P W I T H S A LO N M AG A Z I N E

LUNCHTIME procedures In today’s time-crunched world, people are looking to maximize their time with procedures that offer no downtime and little discomfort.

BY CATALINA MARGULIS

T

hey say “It’s a mad, mad world,” but in the techno age of 24-7 emails, tweets and Facebook posts, it would be truer to say “It’s a fast, fast world.” When it comes to beauty anyway, who has time for “downtime”? Not many people, it seems.

“Non-surgical cosmetic treatments have grown by more than 500 per cent since 1997, with more than nine million procedures performed in North America last year alone,” says Dr. Cory Goldberg, a cosmetic plastic surgeon in Toronto.

It makes sense. With long commutes and longer days, not to mention family and extracurricular commitments, women and men are finding it tougher every day to find the elusive “me-time” for beauty maintenance and, let’s admit it, upgrades.

Skipping lunch for a much-needed mani, pedi or wrinkle-erasing procedure in preparation for the holiday season is a welcome option when the telltale signs of surgery (bruising, redness) are not in the equation.

So, without further ado, and for your lunchtime break consideration, here are some zero-downtime procedures to keep in mind, along with what you need to know about them.

PSST, HAVE YOU HEARD ABOUT… When you’re styling clients’ hair, we all know the conversation can get pretty personal, so the next time your clients complain about their latest beauty issue (maybe sagging jowls or forehead lines), tell them to pick up Elevate Magazine for cosmetic and anti-aging solutions.

FA S T FAC I A L S What if you could get three facials in one and return to work with glowing skin after a simple, pampering one-hour treatment? OxyGeneo is a “super-facial” that pulls together three different treatments in one to achieve exfoliation, infusion and oxygenation for smoother, brighter, glowing skin. “It is efficient and offers immediate results,” says Dr. Diane Wong, a cosmetic physician and owner of Glow Medi Spa in Toronto. She adds that with repeated treatments, clients can see a reduction in fine lines, pores, acne breakouts and sun spots.

“When your skin is oxygenated, there is increased capillary blood flow and increased cell metabolism, so the skin will more readily accept the nutrients that are being infused, such as hyaluronic acid, peptides and retinol,” she explains.

Although there is no downtime, Dr. Wong says there can be minimal redness after the procedure, so she recommends doing it the day before a special event rather than the same day.

Sensitive-skin types may also want to avoid this procedure, as it may aggravate inflammation.

Dr. Wong recommends four to six treatments to start for best results, followed by seasonal visits for maintenance.

S M O OT H O P E R ATO R In fact, combining treatments can be not only time-saving but also more effective.

“One of our most popular treatments is VoluDerm, a new lunchtime treatment with no pain or downtime,” says Dr. Wong.

She explains that it involves a combination of treatments, including microneedling, radio-frequency and galvanic energy.

“We combine it with Pollogen skin tightening and Selphyl platelet-rich plasma [PRP] to achieve an overall ‘wow’ result by stimulating hyaluronic acid and collagen production, as well as increasing the body’s own natural growth factors,” she says.

“It results in softer, smoother, tighter skin with a volumizing effect overall. It can be used anywhere on the face or body. It can also be used for those harder-to-treat areas, such as under the eyes, and to treat lines and wrinkles, crepey skin, skin irregularities or scars, skin laxity and even stretch marks,” says Dr. Wong.

“Depending on the skin type and the modality used in the treatment, clients will have some mild redness and swelling, usually lasting one to three hours. It is usually easy to cover with makeup. About one to three days later there may be mild crusting in some clients, but it’s barely visible and also easily covered with makeup. It will slough naturally in a few days.”

For best results, she recommends three to five treatments spaced two weeks apart, with maintenance visits once a year.

L I G H T S H O W When it comes to discolouration of the skin, sun damage and small broken blood vessels, Dr. Goldberg recommends phototherapy (also known as IPL or BBL) to his clients.

He explains that it uses a focused light to burn away the damaged skin and discoloured parts. Dr. Goldberg notes that a treatment takes 15 to 20 minutes, with 15 minutes of redness as the only side-effect. As with VoluDerm, darker skin types should exercise caution. “This works best if you don’t have a tan, and it’s not for people with darker skin,” says Dr. Goldberg.

The procedure requires four to six treatments.

C L E A R T H E PA S T Tattoos can make for a night of fun—and a lifetime of regret. Fortunately, thanks to the latest technology, tattoo removal can be as easy as taking five.

“The PicoSure tattoo removal machine uses a very fast laser,” says Dr. Sean Rice, a Toronto plastic and cosmetic surgeon.

“This allows a very powerful pulse wave to penetrate skin quickly and destroy the ink underneath. Because this happens so fast, there is minimal heat generated, which makes the procedure more comfortable than prior tattoo removal machines.”

“The speed of the laser is also significantly faster, so your procedure can be done in a shorter amount of time,” he says.

“A tattoo the size of a business card can be done in a matter of minutes.”

Dr. Rice notes that some colours and tattoos are easier to remove than others. While most people can return to work immediately, exercise should be postponed for a few days.

PHOTOS: THINKSTOCK

DISCOVER MORE ABOUT COSMETIC ENHANCEMENT, ANTI-AGING AND WELLNESS TIPS AT ELEVATEMAGAZINE.COM

elevatemagazine.com

Elevate Magazine

@elevatecanada

@ElevateMagazine

HAIRLINES COLOUR

STROBE lights Strobing has been all over social media this year. Here’s how to add this trendy colour technique to your repertoire.

H

air and beauty go hand in hand, so it’s only natural that some of the latest colour trends have been derived from makeup techniques—contouring was huge last year, and now strobing is all the rage.

“Strobing draws emphasis to an area in the hair,” says Jessica Van Kuyk, artistic

director for Suki’s Salon, Spa and Academy in British Columbia. “A lot of the focus is around the face, drawing focus to a certain area and drawing attention away from imperfections.”

WHERE TO START Whether your client has light or dark hair, strobing can be used to add volume and definition. For clients with finer hair, Van Kuyk recommends adding a heavier strobing application throughout the hair for more volume, but says it needs to be a more careful process for thicker hair. “For thicker hair, we need to be more strategic and place it where the hair tends to open up or split, making sure the look is not too expansive,” she explains. “Follow the natural growth direction, but make sure you are leaving enough depth. Keep the texture in mind since it can look too voluminous and frizzy.”

For a universally flattering look, Van Kuyk says a halo placement around the face is a popular strobing technique.

“Take a section right across the front hairline and do a balayage skimming technique in two or three sections,” she recommends. “It creates a really nice halo effect for bright illumination around the face.”

WHY IT’S DIFFERENT While similar effects can be achieved with other colour techniques, Alex Canada, says strobing sets itself apart. “Strobing is a new way of transforming the hair,” he explains.

“You’re not changing the hair structure but rather putting a highlight or lowlight effect

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PHOTOS: MATRIX CANADA

Chabot, artistic director for Matrix

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around the face to showcase a certain area. Unlike ombrés and sombrés, which demand clients come back to the salon every three to six months, strobing encourages clients to change their looks more often, changing their colour to focus on a different part of their faces. By doing this, it will let you be more creative and make you more money.”

After the success of Matrix’s Rock ‘N’ Strobe collection last year, the brand recently launched Candy Strobe, the fall/winter 2017 collection that features soft hair strobing palettes such as Cotton Candy, Almond Crème, Raspberry Chocolate, Caramel Swirl and Cookies & Cream for accentuating the eyes, lips, cheeks, jaw and face. “Candy Strobe is more about soft colours and pastels, while Rock ‘N’ Strobe was a bolder statement of intense vibrant colour,” explains Chabot. “With Candy Strobe, there’s light pink on white hair, caramel brown and men with grey and blue hair. There’s more tone-on-tone colour, which is more in line with your client’s way of thinking for the fall season.”

While strobing can be used year-round, Van Kuyk says it’s important to keep the season in mind when experimenting with the technique. “We tend to work with a deeper, warmer colour palette in the fall, so you need to strategically place areas of depth beside the strobing to make it look a little more multi-dimensional,” she says. Since our complexion is fairer at this time of year, this will bring out more of the lightness so the client doesn’t feel washed out. This is the time of year when strobing is a great technique for having pops of light rather than global light throughout the hair.”

COLOUR CONNECTION

LESS IS MORE

Jessica Van Kuyk shares her top tips for mastering the art of strobing.

Since strobing is so versatile, the options are endless when it comes to

SATURATION

colour combinations. However, Van Kuyk says putting too much strobing

“Make sure you have a good saturation of the lightener on the hair, particularly when doing a balayage or surface technique. Otherwise you won’t get a sufficient amount of lightening. I recommend using Sunlights Balayage Lightener.”

into the hair can be a common mistake. “You need to make sure you are leaving behind enough of the hair’s natural depth and incorporating some depth into the service,” she recommends. “Just take a look at how a child’s hair lightens out and where those areas of lightness are; concentration around the hairline and the crown area. Focus more on putting the strobing there and incorporate areas of depth throughout the hair to bring that out.”

While many clients may have only started hearing about the strobing trend now, Van Kuyk says it’s something that some of her clients have already been asking for. “Clients come in and ask for it without even realizing it; they will show me pictures and looks they are finding on Pinterest,” she says. “It’s a look that is softer and youthful. Whether we are dealing with clients in their 20s or 50s, everybody can benefit from having some points of lightness placed throughout their hair. It’s always a more youthful look, and everybody can wear it.”

“It’s all about imagination,” says Chabot. “From eyes to cheekbones to lips, you can have fun with changing the colour placement wherever you want. It’s about highlighting your client’s best features. Sometimes as hairstylists, we have the mentality of choosing for our clients. Strobing is about asking our clients what they want to showcase. It’s something more customizable for every client; instead of choosing for them, you’re

DEPTH “Go through and do a two-point balayage and melt in between that with some depth with DIA Light from L’Oréal Professionnel. Between your two points of lightness, melt in the negative space of the demicolour to bring some illumination to the strobing and add some warmth to the hair.”

ADD-ON “Whether a client is coming into the salon for grey coverage or global colour, you can incorporate strobing into your colour services. It can be as little as a 15-minute add-on time. For somebody who is doing a grey-coverage service and coming in every two or three weeks, strobing can really help soften out that line of demarcation so they can go to the four-week mark for their retouching service rather than the twoor three-week mark. For a base, highlight and lowlight strobing combination service, clients can come in every six weeks to refresh their tone and keep their hair shiny.”

choosing with them.”

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HAIRLINES NEWS

editor’s

PICKS

Sparkle and shine with products that top our wish lists.

RADIANT REACTION Brighten up skin with - Radiant Aveda’s Tulasara Oleation Oil, which nourishes skin with a blend of six plant oils. aveda.ca

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DIAMOND STRENGTH Transform hair’s condition with label.m’s Diamond Dust Leave-In Crème, which contains a microdiamond complex of black and white diamond dust, along with white rose petal oil, pearl powder and champagne. labelm.com

GLAM SLAM For on-trend lips this season, Mirabella Beauty’s Berried Modern Matte Lipstick provides a decadently dark pout. The Lasting Lash Waterproof Mascara creates long-lasting volume and length, while the Visionary Longwear Eyeshadow in Imagine adds a pop of tinselly shimmer. mirabellabeauty.com

TEXT:VERONICA BOODHAN; PHOTOGRAPHY: PAUL C

COLOUR CURE Joining L’Oréal Professionnel’s bestselling CC Cream for Blondes, Color Corrector for Brunettes is formulated with brown correcting pigments for naturallooking colour and protects brunettes against redness. lorealprofessionnel.ca

CHARGED UP Enhance greys with Silver Charge by Redken for Men. The shampoo uses Steel Lock Technology, which eliminates brassy tones and neutralizes warm ones for healthier-looking results. redken.ca

salonmagazine.ca

PL AYING IT KOOL BLONDS

SALON MAGAZINE: What is different about this

SM: How does a trend like KoolBlonds translate

SM: Why is Igora Royal Highlifts with Fibre

type of blonde?

to the salon?

Bond technology such an incredible innovation

¯ With the KoolBlonds trend, there is KIM VO:

KV: This trend really brings back the fun part of

some warmth, and we’re seeing colours with a

being a colourist. With multi-dimensional colour,

KV: Fibreplex on its own has been a revolution for

Nordic feel. There is more of a polar feel that I’ll

there is a whole different artistic palette to work

blonding and now that this patented technology

refer to as “vanilla vamp”, because you can have

with. KoolBlonds is about this real artisanal blend

is integrated into the Igora Royal Highlifts colour

some cool pieces to give it a wonderful look,

and handcrafted hair, and this is a real art piece.

cream, it is a real game changer for colourists. This

especially for winter.

Every client wants to feel unique and special,

formula gives colourists a safety net for introducing

and this is a great way to further inspire creativity

blondes to their clients. Clients who may have

in your clients.

been afraid of going blonde can do more than

for this trend?

ombre, giving hairstylists a new market.

44

s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 6

PHOTO COURTESY OF SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

With ever y ESSENTIAL LOOKS Collection, fashion is first and Schwar zkopf Professional’s 2016 Flex Collection was no exception. Nor th American creative colour Director, Rossa Jurenas and Global Blonde ambassador Kim Vo¯ breaks down the features of the KoolBlonds trend, one of three trends within the collection, along with how the new Igora Royal Highlif ts with integrated Fibre Bond technology enhanced the looks.

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

SALON MAGAZINE: Can you explain the inspiration for the KoolBlonds trend collection?

ROSSA JURENAS: KoolBlonds shows us that black on black is back again, but we see it with a bit more femininity, mixing textures of lace, heels, wide-leg trousers, then pairing light hair with navy and black. From the Schwarzkopf Professional perspective we narrow it down and look at what people will see on a local, national and international basis.

SM: How have bonding products enhanced your ability as a colourist?

“Igora Royal Highlifts with Fibre Bond technology integrated in the colour cremè not only protects the hair from damage when lightening but also saves a mixing step, making it a time efficient product that is all about colour, control and continuity.”

– KIM VO¯

RJ: With Fibreplex as part of the new Igora Royal Highlifts colour, you get the bonding system while high-lifting a blonde. Also, I am really excited about two new cool shades: a beige-cendré and an ash-cendré that solidify the KoolBlonds trend.

SM: What do you love most about working with Schwarzkopf Professional’s Fibreplex?

RJ: It’s easy to use because when adding it into my other colour and lightening formulas I don’t have to adjust any timing or developer.

As a colourist, I never want to compromise the hair or rush the process, but with this product I can push from dark to light and not worry about the health of the hair. In a fast-paced salon, that’s huge!

DOW NLOA D THE EL A PP NOW !

FIND THE LATEST TREND NEWS THAT WILL INSPIRE YOUR PERSONAL LOOKBOOK!

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STRONG BONDS FOR HE ALTHIER BLONDES Combining the patented Fibre Bond technology in the colour cremè interlinks with the hair fibres to enforce strong structural bonds.

Igora Royal Highlifts includes Fibre Bond technology within the colour cremè, so no additive is needed. The active ingredients form a protective layer that enforces strong hair bonds.

Even during the high lifting process, this technology provides healthy, strong hair. As part of this system, Fibreplex N˚2 Bond Sealer further strengthens the bonds, sealing the surface of the hair for superior shine,

WHAT ARE THESE BONDS? Hair’s inner matrix is a complicated structure linked through three different types of stabilizing bonds. With Fibre Bond technology, the most critical bonds, the disulphide bonds are protected.

46

s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 6

“Igora Royal Highlift Blondes with Fibre Bond Technology is already protecting the hair for your clients. As a result, your client’s hair maintains a strong, healthy structure with stabilized hair fibres and a smooth, shiny hair surface.”

–ROSSA JURENAS, NORTH AMERICAN CREATIVE COLOUR DIRECTOR FOR SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

PHOTO COURTESY OF SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

while locking in the colour pigment.

salonmagazine.ca

GET STRONG HAIR STEP-BY-STEP STEP 1 PROTECT

STEP 2 SEAL & CREATE BONDS

STEP 3 MAINTAIN & RETAIN

FIBREPLEX N˚1 Bond Booster

FIBREPLEX N˚2 Bond Sealer

FIBREPLEX N˚3 Bond Maintainer

FIBREPLEX Shampoo

Fibreplex Bond Booster

Strengthen the outer surface of

An at home treatment,

Fibreplex Shampoo

can be added to any lifting,

the hair with Fibreplex N°2 Bond

Fibreplex N°3 Bond

balances pH levels to lock

lightening or colouring

Sealer, which offers an intensive

Maintainer helps protect

in colour pigments while

system to reinforce and

treatment that seals the outer

the hair against new

creating bonds within

strengthen hair fibres.

surface of the hair for lasting

mechanical damage while

the hair fibre for shinier,

strength and shine.

maintaining hair quality.

stronger and healthier hair.

The intensive care of

TECH TALK With Fibre Bond 4.5 technology, Fibreplex creates new bonds and balances pH levels, which helps lock in colour pigments while maintaining the integrity of the hair.

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s a l o n n o v e m b e r + d e c e m b e r. 1 6

PHOTO COURTESY OF SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

ALTERNATIVE COLOUR INTERPRE TATIONS

Schwar zkopf Professional’s men’s hairst yling exper ts, Mat t y Conrad and Paul Pereira teamed up and created this street wise version of the KoolBlonds trend.

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

“This trend is about those impossibly pastel blondes that still look smooth, shiny and expensive. Igora Vario Blonde with Fibreplex kept the integrity of the hair even through multiple applications, allowing us to maintain that star-quality shine.”

–MATTY CONRAD

“We lifted the hair using Igora Vario Blonde with Fibreplex, and opted for strawberry blonde, with slices of muted pink for a luxury street appeal. We were both impressed with the condition of the hair.”

–PAUL PEREIRA

www.schwarzkopfpro.com

IN PARTNERSHIP WITH SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

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RECOS FOR A GREAT RENO Next to launching a salon, planning a major renovation is the biggest project and costliest expense any salon owner can face.

Here’s a rundown of what you need to know before taking the plunge.

By Yasmin Grothé THE TIMING IS RIGHT

Before the renovation project, I had been running my business as a boss, but you need to be more of a caring parent to build a successful business. I decided on very clear goals based on that.”

– Lyseng “Make a list of what you love and don’t, based on functionality and comfort. Favour things that are timeless and never too trendy, so they can evolve well over time. The interior design needs to communicate your identity so that the new salon really represents who you and your team are as creative people. Start a vision board

“My business wasn’t growing the way I wanted it to in order to

on Pinterest and work on it every week before you come to a final

offer my staff better opportunities, so I had to retool my business

decision regarding a look or mood.” – Miotto

model and build a new salon where there was a progressive way to work,” says Dana Lyseng, owner of Supernova Salon in North Vancouver, who took home the Contessa award for Interior Design in 2016. “Essentially, we were filling an emergency situation instead of growing the proper way. Since we’ve moved, we went from six people to a team of 24, and I am finally able to implement an education program when I hire people, effectively giving them what they need to be really confident and happy behind the chair.”

“Even if our decor was still current, we had been in the same location for 14 years, tweaking stuff along the way and making do with the old floor plan—and only three sinks!” says Olivier Miotto, co-owner of Glam Salon Boutique in Montreal and a Contessa Session Hairstylist winner in 2014. “We clearly needed

CRITICAL PLANNING “We rolled out our marketing plan on our social media platforms and through our newsletter, telling our clients we were moving only two weeks before the date, which made things quick and efficient,” says Lyseng. Added bonus: You don’t need to explain anything to anybody if the job is delayed.

“Change is never isolated. Expect things to continue evolving even after the big reno is completed. You and your staff will adjust to your new salon by creating fresh routines and pinpointing other things you wish to transform. We just installed a new software system and changed our hair colour brand, too.” — Miotto

to start from scratch.” Creating a fully functional

“It’s notoriously difficult to find financing in the salon industry. I

space was the starting point for a super-efficient

worked with a broker who had a very good relationship with banks.”

renovation project that was completed under six

– Lyseng

weeks flat.

HAVE A VISION

“We planned our renovations in January, when things are superslow in the salon. But since we couldn’t afford to stay closed for five weeks, we found a big salon in downtown Montreal [O Coiffure & Spa at Ogilvy] that was generous enough to let us

strategic plan on how to move a business while

work within their premises during that time. It was amazing to

keeping my staff and my clients. My team and

see how welcoming and kind they were to share their space.

I had a ton of meetings where we addressed

We had our own Interac payment system and brought along all

what they needed, and I became their advocate.

our products.” — Miotto PHOTOS:THINKSTOCK

“I worked with a business coach to build a

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salonmagazine.ca

ask the right questions Those who have renovated their salon know it’s better to ask a few additional questions before and during the renovation process to save big on time and money. Here’s a quick checklist of questions that you might not have thought about asking but are certainly worth the effort.

Do you really need that expensive Carrara marble counter in the kitchen, which is hidden from clients, or would laminate be okay? “People will try to sell you a Ferrari when all you need is an Audi,” says Lyseng.

Is your new dream location accessible, and does it offer better parking options?

Overinflate your contingency budget by 20 per cent. Everything always ends up being much more expensive than originally planned.

Sensible planning will take you a long way. You can always bring your vision to life within a more modest budget, so nix the flashy finishes and ultra-luxe bells and whistles.

Always have a backup plan—that way you’ll have options if your contractor can’t finish the job on time.

Can you really afford to overlook the retail section, which brings in that important extra revenue, when rehauling your salon? “We hired Tuxedo, a marketing agency that specializes in retail spaces, to create a beautiful and effective way for us to showcase our take-home products,” says Miotto.

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FOUR SECRETS FOR RENO SUCCESS Isabelle Lessard, a salon and spa designer at Lanvain Design in Montreal, shares tips on how to achieve a successful renovation project.

1 Work with a designer who understands the needs of your particular salon and will implement a course of action to create a new space that will meet your objectives.

2 Allot 40 per cent of your renovation budget to furniture, and 60 per cent for construction.

3 Make sure that you work with a design firm that is either specialized in salon and spa remodelling and design or has had enough clients in that field to give it the expertise you need.

4 Be flexible enough to allow modifications along the way. Remember: A salon designer is an expert in his or her field whose goal is to implement solutions that will help make the best of the work environment for your staff and clients.

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The Green Effect Turning your salon into an eco-friendly space can have its challenges. We get some expert tips for helping you go green while growing your business.

By Veronica Boodhan

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oing green has been on the rise, with salons from coast to coast getting in on the eco-friendly craze. A big part of this has been thanks to Green Circle Salons, which works with salons across Canada to help implement more sustainable salon practices, such as

PHOTO:THINKSTOCK

their comprehensive recycling program.

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But for many eco-friendly salon owners, going green is an extension

that in addition to implementing Green Circle Salons’ environmental

of what they personally believe in. “Since I was little, I’ve always

initiatives, designHouse Salon uses all-recycled paper and has limited

believed we have to reduce, reuse and recycle; it really resonated with

its amount of printing.

me that we have to take care of the planet,” says Bruce Peters, owner of Zazou Salon & Academy in North Vancouver.

Going green doesn’t have to put your business in the red. From

When it comes to recycling the salon’s waste through Green Circle Salons’ recycling program, Pasychny says it’s been a seamless transition for her team. “Our staff is excited to help sort it, and

building to remodelling, there are various changes that can help your

everybody works together,” she explains. “It’s not an inconvenience at

salon be more environmentally friendly while saving you money and

all. It fits right in as something you should do.”

helping grow your clientele.

GROW FURTHER

MIND OVER MATTER

As one of the first salons to join Green Circle Salons since it expanded

Turning your salon into an eco-friendly space can be an evolving

to Vancouver in 2012, Zazou Salon & Academy has always been

process. Chantelle Pasychny, owner of designHouse Salon in Victoria,

mindful of the environment. The salon has incorporated recycled

B.C., opened her eco-friendly salon five years ago—well before going

wood logs, LED lighting and recycled paper and has even started

green became an industry trend.

using iPads to store its clients’ information. In addition, Zazou Salon

“When I was looking into opening the salon, I just wanted to create

& Academy is the winner of Green Circle Salons’ 2016 Earth Month

it sustainably, not really realizing the bigger result it would create for

video competition, which awarded them a forest of 1,500 trees

the industry,” she explains. “My husband and I designed it ourselves,

planted in the salon’s honour.

but we aligned ourselves with a construction partner who sourced

Members of Green Circle Salons implement an Environmental

recycled wood and we figured out how to take care of things ethically.

Contribution Initiative (ECI) fee, which helps increase revenue to

It was the perfect synergy and just kept evolving and growing.”

support the salon’s eco-friendly changes. “I was weary of having to

designHouse Salon was designed as an eco-friendly salon from the

charge people more, but the service fee is a great thing,” explains

ground up, with Pasychny incorporating recycled materials and all-

Peters. “It gives us a different revenue stream and provides a

LED lighting and even adding a living wall, which absorbs emissions

different avenue to offset future expenses, as opposed to raising

in the air. “A lot of people comment that it doesn’t smell like a salon

service prices. It’s a fee that’s going to benefit the company while

when they walk in,” she says. “It’s very fresh and open.” She says

helping the environment.”

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When it comes to sourcing products for his salon, Peters looks for brands that share his environmentally friendly way of thinking. “I ask myself if it’s in the lineup of what our salon is all about,” he says. “All of our product partners have similar values to us.” He lists Davines, Aveda and La Biosthetique as a few of the brands carried at his salon.

STAYING GREEN Once you’ve transformed your salon into a greener space, what’s next? It’s about continuing to make environmentally conscious decisions that will benefit the environment and your salon for years to come.

“It’s our social, environmental and corporate responsibility,” says Peters. “Like-minded individuals who come to our salon will likely have a stronger brand loyalty. People won’t necessarily come to us because we’re environmentally friendly, but a large majority of people will because they find it’s beneficial that they are taking care of the planet through our practices.”

“Branding, marketing and visual impact will naturally help you grow your clientele,” says Pasychny. “It’s really important to speak to who you are, and it naturally coincides with your ethics and what you do, inspiring clients and attracting staff to come to you for those

GREEN-MINDED

reasons. Our staff wants to be proud of the environment they work in and clients want to be proud of the environment they come to, so it creates business building. People are becoming more aware, and it’s exciting. It’s the way of the future.”

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Top tips for giving your salon an eco-friendly makeover.

1

Align your salon with other businesses or community partners that also have sustainable practices to provide you with environmental education and help you look for

ways to further reduce your carbon footprint.

“It’s so much easier to work with a third party or get into a partnership with someone who can take some of that worry or stress away,” says Peters. “For example, your contractor has to be like-minded, for sure. Do your homework.”

2

Subsidize your electricity to save money and reduce energy consumption.

“Lighting is a huge expense, but you can cut back on energy

PHOTOS: ZAZOU SALON & ACADEMY, DESIGNHOUSE SALON

consumption,” says Pasychny. “There are partners that you can work

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with to subsidize your electricity, so you pay a premium and all of your electricity is subsidized with wind and solar energy.”

3

Cut back on costs by sourcing recycled materials.

“Sourcing materials that are reclaimed is a money saver,“ says Pasychny. ”It’s important to be just as mindful of your

spending when you’re opening or remodelling as you’re being mindful of the environment. It helps keep costs down while keeping sustainability in your business when you’re trying to grow your business.”

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7

SEVEN SECRETS FOR HIRING YOUR SALON DESIGNER What you need to know about hiring an interior designer for your salon project.

By Anna Lee Boschetto

Y

ou may have your own ideas and inspiration for your ideal salon space, but having a professional interior designer pull it all together on paper is the first step in having it come to life. That said, not

every interior designer has the experience of designing a salon, and there are certain qualifications that are a must. Here’s the rundown from

1

designers who have decades of experience that you can learn from.

Design Knowledge “Ask the designer about the projects they are working on,” suggests Gerry Grossi, general manager for Belvedere Canada. “Ask to see some of their projects. We often take clients to salons so that they can see what we have done.” When it comes to salon design, knowledge is key. You’ll want to hire a design firm with a Building Code Identification Number—otherwise, you won’t be able to obtain permits from municipalities. In addition, having a lawyer review your lease before you sign is a good idea to ensure that Greco Design Inc., a Toronto-based salon design firm, also recommends looking for experts in the field. “Designing a salon is very different from a restaurant when it comes to just about everything, from the size of the chair to the placement of electrical outlets,” says Fiore, who adds that it’s important to have the right voltage, too.

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you can, in fact, renovate the property. Sandra Fiore, co-owner of Fiore +

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2

one area. Having an ongoing discussion throughout the design process helps manage everyone’s expectations and results in

Have Expectations

the best design possible.

For Grossi, supporting both the clients and working with the

“Designers are not project managers,” cautions Fiore. After

contractors is an important part of achieving an optimum end

years of watching interior designers play this part on reality-

result. “You have to be able to be trusted and you are more

television design shows, Fiore says many salon owners have the expectation that their interior designer will take ownership of the project. “We have about four site visits to make sure that the design is correct, but we aren’t there to fight,” she says, adding that it’s important that both the

3

Don’t Do It

designer and general contractor communicate with each

For those who think they can design their own salons, you can,

other—otherwise, you won’t get the quality of work you

but it may cost more than you think. “Put your outlets in the

expected and there won’t be a way to undo the work once

wrong location and moving each will cost you about $1,000,”

it’s complete. For example, the designer needs to make sure

says Fiore, who adds that when you’re trying to open your

that the placement of each station allows the stylist to walk

business in three months, time is money. Briones echoes

around the chair, which means your last chair must be three

her sentiments. “You need to know the proper distances,

feet from the wall.

from the washing station to the styling station, for plumbing and electrical and that’s something that an experienced salon designer will be able to calculate easily,” she says. In some

From Paper to Salon Grossi says having a wish list from the salon owner goes a long way. “We can go through the woodwork, flooring, electrical and plumbing. And we need to make sure the furniture budget is clearlly outlined so that everyone understands where and how a client wants to spend it,” says Grossi.

cases, salon owners have overestimated their space and

6

ordered too many chairs for their salons.

Trendsetting Styles Along with using your inspiration, a salon interior designer with

“A designer must be able to translate what’s on paper

experience will be able to tell you the current trends and what

into real life,” says Leonora Briones, a senior designer for

you may want to consider incorporating into your salon. “Right

Takara Belmonte in Mississauga, Ont. She adds that while

now, we are including digital screens and signage behind the

this seems like an obvious skill, it’s not always an easy one to

reception desk for branding and product sale,” says Fiore.

achieve. Briones says it’s important that salon owners have

In addition, Fiore says the salon experience is shifting, with

faith in a designer’s ability to bring their vision to life, and if

hairstylists and colourists coming to the client as opposed to

you haven’t agreed to a design on paper, it will be very difficult

clients moving from one area to another—a factor that may

to do so in reality. Both Fiore and Briones encourage clients

affect everything from the type of chairs you opt for to the

to bring in their ideas and concepts from magazines and

placement of your styling stations.

Pinterest to give the designer a springboard for inspiration, which allows for a solid initial discussion about what is doable given the salon space and budget.

4

5

than experienced for the project.”

7

Designer’s Eye When it comes to choosing finishes, Fiore always steers

Keep the Conversation Going

clear of adding green tones in a salon, which can affect the

“You want to be able to take that idea your client has and

and neutral hues, with a bold colour used as an accent,” says

really make it the best it can be,” says Fiore. “As a designer,

Briones. She adds that design, for the most part, has shifted to

having a good relationship will help you guide them in the

more linear and minimalist styles, with many owners wanting

right direction.” For example, a salon owner may have certain

to incorporate sustainability into their overall designs. Along

expectations about the layout of their salon, but through

with colour, lighting plays an integral role in a salon—one that

their expertise, a salon designer will be able to suggest

is practical as opposed to adding ambience. It’s one more

configurations that allow for the best work flow because they

distinction that Fiore makes, adding that restaurant designers

have a knowledge of spacing that will prevent congestion in

would have a completely different view of this element.

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appearance of blondes. What colour palettes do work? “White

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Hair: Jesse Ervin, Aveda Institute, Toronto Makeup: Min Kim Styling: Rachel Swan Photos: Iko Maramo

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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Making a MARK This Canadian collection took top honours for Student Hairstylist of the Year at the 2016 North American Hairstyling Awards.

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Soft waves and feminine styling bring a romantic feel to this Australian collection.

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Hair: Sharon Blain, Australia Makeup: Helen Samaryan Styling: Kimberlee Kessler Photos: James Demitri

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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MOVERSand shakers This Canadian collection fuses carefree texture with multi-layered colour for an effortless rock ’n’ roll chic vibe.

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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Finalist, Contessa 27 Canadian Hairstylist of the Year, Stacey Abdella, Ricci Hair Co., St. Albert, Alta.

Makeup: Tanya El Zahr Photos: Heiko Ryll

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Finalist, Contessa 27 Student/Apprentice of the Year, Kaitlin Belland, Rock Paper Shears Hair Studio, Edmonton Makeup: Emily Phung Photos: Donna Lewis

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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TRUE COLOURS Avant-garde accents and multi-dimensional colour add a playful touch to this Canadian collection.

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l e b e RRousers

g stylin y g d e d r and u o rk an l a o c d f s o thi .

Pops ht on g ction i e l l l d o e sc sh eriou t s y m

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Finalist

, Contes sa 27 A lberta Hairsty list of th e Year, Rob Ga spar, Blunt S alon, Ed monton Makeup : Noelle Hill Styling : Maude Boisjoly Photos: Ara Sas soonian

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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Enchanting Allure This Australian collection exudes a mythical feel with breathtaking avant-garde styling.

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Hair: Nadia Semanic, Toni & Guy, Australia Makeup: Kylie O’Toole Styling: Emma Cotterill Photos: Andrew O’Toole

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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FEMININE FEROCITY

Elegant styling combines with refined texture in this 2016 NAHA finalist’s collection.

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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Hair: Vivienne Mackinder, HairDesignerTV, New York Makeup: David Maderich Photos: Roberto Ligresti

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go with the flow Mermaid colours with cascading texture take on new life in this Dutch collection.

Lianne Beckers Baggermans, Avanti Kappers, Netherlands Makeup: Mireille Bevers Brunt Photos: Domen / Van De Velde

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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MISCHIEF IS MY MIDDLE NAME

BUT FIRST, CHAMPAGNE!

YOU’RE NOT GLISTENING TO ME!

NO TAMING MY TWINKLE

FALLING IN LUST-ER

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PROFESSIONAL FORMULAS | PROFESSIONAL RESULTS™ © Artistic Nail Design • Nail Alliance - Artistic, Inc., Missouri USA • HM-5077

Model is wearing

I’VE BEEN GOOD-ISH

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Vote for the "Fan Favourite" Contessa Award at SalonMagazine.ca/FanFavourite from October 16 to 30.

The winner will be revealed at this year's gala!

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GALA NOVEMBER 6, 2016 Westin Harbour Castle Toronto

TICKETS Until Oct. 26: $185 Oct. 27 to Nov. 6: $215 TO PURCHASE TICKETS, VISIT SALONMAGAZINE.CA/CONTESSA

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SALON MAGAZINE PRESENTS

2017 FINALISTS CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST Karina Brasseur, Coupe Sculpture, Repentigny, Que. Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa,Tillsonburg, Ont. Guylaine Martel, Guylaine Martel Artistes Coiffeurs, Mont-Saint-Hilaire, Que. Daniel Naumovski, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Alain Pereque, Salon Saco Drummond, Montreal Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co., Edmontonl Vanessa Secondino, Salon Pure, Montreal Kathy Simon, Mekka, Montreal Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont.

CANADIAN SALON TEAM Black2Blond, Vancouver Blushes, Ottawa Civello Salon & Spa, Toronto Fate Hair Salon, Burlington, Ont. Oblic Villeray, Montreal Salon Collage, Toronto Salon Entrenous, London, Ont. Salon Pure, Montreal Suki’s Salon, Spa and Academy, Vancouver Zoom Hair Studio, New Westminster, B.C.

ELITE MASTER HAIRSTYLIST Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Michael Crispel, Earth A Salon by Michael Crispel, Toronto Donna Dolphy, Donna Dolphy Hair, Toronto Marc Galati, Headlines Salon, Stouffville, Ont. Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa,Tillsonburg, Ont. Isabelle Lachance, Oblic Styliste et Coloriste Inc., Montreal Ludovic Leroy, Rayko Coiffure, LaSalle, Que. Alain Pereque, Salon Saco Drummond, Montreal Kathy Simon, Mekka, Montreal Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa

MASTER COLOURIST

Melissa Duguay, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B. Michelle Finlayson, Kick Hair & Body, Edmonton Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa,Tillsonburg, Ont. Heidi Kenney, Heidi Kenney Hair Studio, Yarmouth, N.S. Dana Lyseng, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver Joan Novak, JoNo Hair, Whistler, B.C. Audrey Adrine Petrosyan, Hair by Audrey Adrine, Toronto Caroline Robitaille, Coiffure Caroline Robitaille, Repentigny, Que. Michael Shire, Holt Renfrew Salon and Spa, Toronto Marlo Steenman, The Glamour Box, St. Albert, Alta.

CANADIAN COLOURIST

Rodrigo Araneda, ÖLAb Coiffeurs, Montreal Jenny Bell, Headlines Salon, Stouffville, Ont. Krysten-Ashley Garrod, Studio Fontana, Toronto Vu Nguyen, Lure Salon, Vancouver Michelle Pargee, Milica Salon Spa, Langley, B.C. Audrey Adrine Petrosyan, Hair by Audrey Adrine, Toronto Alann Sluser, KoKo the Salon, Edmonton Lisa Smith, Mint Hair Lounge, Port Moody, B.C. Loretta Tom, Salon Haze, Vancouver Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa

SESSION HAIRSTYLIST

Edwin Johnston, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont. Amy Laing, Ponytails + Horseshoes, Edmonton

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Joey Marchese, bob + paige salon, Toronto Palma N’Sheluvzit, The Hair Spot, Toronto Paul Pereira, Solo Bace, Toronto Sophie Tessier, La Rousse Espace Beauté, Montreal Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Marilyn Vendittelli, Valvano Salon Spa, St. Catharines, Ont. Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont.

TEXTURE HAIRSTYLIST Christopher Asta, Harmony Hair Care, Peterborough, Ont. Robin Bacon, Giovanni and Perri, Barrie, Ont. Marie-Josée Dupuis, Coiffure Cut In, Québec, Que. Karly Menzies, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa

MEN'S HAIRSTYLIST Pete Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. John Kinney, Coiffure Cut In, Québec, Que. Mathieu Mainville, local B, Montreal Fabrizio Perciballi, P&H Salon and Spa, Toronto Paul Pereira, Solo Bace, Toronto

AVANT GARDE HAIRSTYLIST Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Ray Civello, Civello Salon & Spa, Toronto Ludovic Leroy, Rayko Coiffure, LaSalle, Que. Dorothy Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Sandro Zamparini, The Joint Salon, Toronto

MULTICULTURAL HAIRSTYLIST Rodrigo Araneda, ÖLAb Coiffeurs, Montreal Dara Crandall, Zazou Salon & Academy, North Vancouver Marie-Josée Dupuis, Coiffure Cut In, Québec, Que. Kozeta Izeti, Kozeta Salon, Toronto Freddy Sim, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver

HAIR EXTENSIONS ARTIST Paula Daddario, Daddario Hair Co., Toronto Angie Hunt, Chatters Salon on Empress, Winnipeg Jason Mellor, Love Hair by J, Calgary Jennifer Reid, Chatters Hair Beauty Salon, London, Ont.

MAKEUP ARTIST Marika D’Auteuil, MD Makeup, Montreal Annie DiNovo, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver Kelsey Fitzpatrick, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Heidi Fleming, Hair Expressions and Day Spa, Kingston, N.S. Florencia Taylor, Freelance, London, Ont.

CANADIAN NAIL ARTIST Clara Kang, Her Majesty's Pleasure, Toronto Nargis Khan, Tips Nail Bar, Toronto Naomi Misu, Tips Nail Bar, Toronto Robin Schwartz, Robyn Schwartz Nail Design, Grand Forks, B.C. Shirley Truong, Tips Nail Bar, Toronto

NEW HAIRSTYLIST Sarah Joris, Maria Bikas Salon, London, Ont. Stephanie Karellas, James Dimitri Hair Atelier, Aurora, Ont. Katie Sawicki, Parlour Hair Lounge, St. Catharines, Ont. John Seo, Taz Hair Co., Etobicoke, Ont. Courtney Simpson, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont.

STUDENT/APPRENTICE Kaitlin Belland, Rock Paper Shears Hair Studio, Edmonton Julia Fullerton, The Make-Up Lounge & Style Bar, Regina, Sask.

Minseo Kim, Taz Hair Co., Toronto King James Valdez, Zazou Salon & Academy, North Vancouver Kayla Zajes, Est-elle Academy of Hair Design, Thorsby, Alta.

ALBERTA HAIRSTYLIST Andor Bubelenyi, FUSS Art of Hair, Edmonton Jason Fournier, J. Fournier Hair Design, Calgary Rob Gaspar, Blunt Salon, Edmonton Amber Kennedy, KoKo the Salon, Edmonton Jag Moussa, JagHed Couture, Calgary

ATLANTIC HAIRSTYLIST Eden Boudreau, Infusion Spa and Salon, Beaver Bank, N.S. Leo Byrne, The Hair Factory, St. John’s, Nfld.

Melissa Duguay, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B. Jessica Murphy, The Hair Factory, St. John’s, Nfld.

Ali Pike, The Hair Factory, St. John’s, Nfld.

BRITISH COLUMBIA HAIRSTYLIST Timothy Kuo, Salon Haze, Vancouver Michelle Pargee, Milica Salon Spa, Langley Freddy Sim, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Lisa Smith, Mint Hair Lounge, Port Moody Loretta Tom, Salon Haze, Vancouver

ONTARIO HAIRSTYLIST Christopher Asta, Harmony Hair Care, Peterborough Robin Bacon, Giovanni and Perri, Barrie Thelma Bento, Taz Hair Co., London Sandro Macri, Salon Collage, Toronto Daniel Naumovski, Taz Hair Co., Toronto

QUEBEC HAIRSTYLIST Rodrigo Araneda, ÖLAb Coiffeurs, Montreal Daniel Benoit, Salon Pure, Montreal Francis Bouchard, Oblic Villeray, Montreal Gilles-Bernard Brassard, Tonique Beauté Spa, Chicoutimi Jean-Sebastien Chalut, O Salon, Montreal

SASKATCHEWAN/MANITOBA HAIRSTYLIST Kayla Deics, The Make-Up Lounge & Style Bar, Regina, Sask.

Taylor Dubois, Daniel Christopher Salon, Regina, Sask.

Jason Lachance, Pink Star Hair Design, Winnipeg Aaron Macri, Satori Hair Studio, Regina, Sask.

Renn VonDyck, Elan Hair Studio, Winnipeg

SALON INTERIOR DESIGN

Brossés, Montreal Her Majesty's Pleasure, Toronto Ludik Coiffure Inc., Beloeil, Que. Narcisse & Echo, Montreal Toque & Cie, Victoriaville, Que.

JOHN STEINBERG AWARD FOR COMMUNITY SERVICE Calia Hair, Toronto Connect Hair Studio, Barrie, Ont. HairStyle Inn Salon, Saskatoon Jonni’s Styling Studio, Kamloops, B.C. Valentini Hair Design, Guelph, Ont.

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CONTESSA GALLERY

CONTESSA 27 FINALIST, MAKEUP ARTIST OF THE YEAR

Starting in the industry in 2000, Rita Stirpe is a two-time Contessa entrant and finalist with an extensive makeup artist resumé, including freelance makeup artistry, onscreen makeup, celebrity makeup and now editorial and competition work.

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AVEDA PETAL ESSENCE FACE ACCENTS IN APRICOT WHISPER This trio of warm, sunny golden to coral peach bronzer, highlighter and blush gives skin a radiant glow with a long-lasting natural finish.

2

ORIBE BEAUTY LIP LUST CRÈME LIPSTICK IN THE VIOLET

TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI; MAKEUP: RITA STIRPE, MAKEUP BY RITA STIRPE, WOODBRIDGE, ONT.; PHOTO: GIANCARLO INTINI, RICHARD DUBOIS

Infused with white lily and myrrh for moisture and antioxidant protection, this lipstick provides high-impact colour with a satin finish.

Rita Stirpe F

or so many hairstylists, makeup is

dark berry lips that were the jumping-off

the finishing touch to the collection.

point for this collection.

But for makeup artists like Rita

SEEING DOUBLE

Stirpe, it’s the whole collection.

3

MIRABELLA BEAUTY CURRENT EYESHADOW QUAD IN URBANITY

With a range of matte, shimmer and sheen textures, this earth-toned eyeshadow quad creates a smouldering effect.

salonmagazine.ca

After doing her first run in the 2015 Contessa

MASTER OF TRENDS

Awards, Stirpe wanted to switch up her

As a makeup artist, you have to find a

approach, which meant getting creative with

balance between creating looks that are

her models. “This year I decided to include

on-trend and pushing the beauty envelope

three sets of twins in my collection, which I

while staying classic and true to what

found was something different that nobody

works for each individual model or client.

did it was a different element showcasing

“I always look at runway and red-carpet

a more natural look and a more dramatic

trends to see what’s going to be big for the

look on each set but still in a way that

season,” says Stirpe, adding that it was the

complemented each other.”

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SALON PROFILE

Cutting Through Education With his diverse experience as an editorial hairstylist, Peter Gray is the guiding force behind Moroccanoil’s new cutting curriculum.

By Anna Lee Boschetto

E

stablishing himself in the ’90s, Peter Gray’s work has been featured in the pages of publications such as V Magazine, Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. Known for his exceptional cutting skills,

Gray’s hair designs have walked the runways for fashion houses including Vivienne Westwood and Junya Watanabe, making him a highly soughtafter hairstylist among a broad spectrum of professional beauty brands including Lanvin and Shu Uemura. Having recently moved to Toronto, Gray spoke with us about his latest partnership with Moroccanoil and why he thinks the brand’s new cutting curriculum offers a fresh take on techniques that can benefit hairstylists at every level of their careers.

SALON MAGAZINE: How is Moroccanoil’s cutting curriculum different from other education programs you’ve been part of?

PETER GRAY: This is really a program that gets right back to the basic foundations of haircutting. It’s built on the classic cuts that hairstylists may or may not have learned in school or apprenticeships.

It’s an approach that gives hairstylists a lot of creative freedom yet is also efficient, so your clients see results, and that’s what builds credibility and trust.

SM: What are the benefits of this platform for hairstylists in terms of being able to build upon what they learn?

PG: In this program every class links together and once you have the technique, you can take it and put your own spin on it. When you’re able to give your clients something fresh and new, it helps you continue to

SM: Why were you so excited to be part of developing this education program?

PG: This is a program that really gets back to the heart of hairstylists and puts them first. Even after the classes, hairstylists are able to access

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PHOTOS: MOROCCANOIL

build that trust with them, and that’s huge for business.

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training videos to continue their learning or refresh what they’ve learned when they get back to the salon. Being able to be part of a new program is inspiring and creative in a different way.

SM: How can this new platform help hairstylists build their businesses?

PG: Learning

a new way of doing things and then going

back to your clients to teach them creates a whole different conversation. There’s an instant appreciation from clients that you have taken the time to grow and learn as a professional, which really elevates the salon experience for them. Also, this program will make you more efficient as a hairstylist, and that translates to having more clients throughout the day. Clients are busy, so being able to get them in and out of the salon yet still give them the best look is what everyone wants.

SM: Having worked with many different brands, what is so different about your experience with Moroccanoil?

PG: This was an opportunity to truly put hairstylists first.

By really focusing on the heart of why we all do what we do, Moroccanoil has put a lot of thought behind this curriculum and kept the hairstylist in mind. This is really about giving hairstylists an approach that incorporates the tools and products they are using in their salons. This translates to education that can be taken back to their salons immediately.

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SALON BUSINESS

FINANCIAL KEYS TO

SUCCESSFUL SALON DESIGN Crunching the numbers for a salon design project can be overwhelming. To make the most sense of your budget, we’ve gathered some expert tips for successfully planning your next project.

By Veronica Boodhan

F

rom opening a new salon to remodelling your current one,

tough business, so even at the best of times you have to base your

bringing your vision to life all comes down to the numbers.

numbers on pessimism. You hope for the best, but prepare for

While it’s important to dream big, having essential financial

the worst.”

resources at your disposal is what will help bring your dream salon to reality.

“There are a lot of financial insecurities when opening something

To help with crunching the numbers, Roy Jouni, owner of Carte Blanche Spa & Haute Coiffure in Orleans, Ont., recommends working with a financial planner. “We’re entrepreneurs and we know our

new,” says Tony Ricci, owner of Ricci Hair Co. in Alberta. “As

trade,” he says. “As much as we may know about finances, we don’t

hairstylists, we’re not always business oriented when it comes to

know as much as financial planners. For example, to get approved for

understanding the cost factor.”

a loan from a bank, you really need to understand the fine print and

To keep your spending in check, we’ve narrowed down some key tips for staying on track with your salon project.

provide those details that a financial planner can help you with.”

As important as a blueprint is to the design, a business plan can be just as significant to the operations side of your salon. A detailed

GET ORGANIZED

business plan outlines your objectives, revenue goals and costs and

Employing a knowledgeable team that understands each and every

can often play a major role when trying to obtain a business loan.

aspect of your vision can help you throughout the process. “The key

When allotting the right amount of money to each respective

is presenting the budget upfront so everybody has an understanding

area of your salon, a reliable contractor can be a vital part of the

of what you’re working with,” explains Ricci. “You have to know how

process, especially when planning large-scale design projects. Since

much you can afford and what kind of salon you want and be ready to

contractors can often be one of the more expensive costs in your

shop around and have discussions.”

budget, they can make or break your entire project. “I always look for a contractor who has been recommended by somebody so you know

owner of A Michael Levine Salon Group in British Columbia, says

who you’re dealing with,” recommends Jouni. “An honest contractor

it’s about being realistic from the onset. “Some salon owners base

and someone you trust, who sits down with you and tells you how

their budget numbers on averages or optimism,” says Levine, who is

much everything will cost. There’s no way we, as salon owners, would

opening a new salon and academy in Surrey, B.C., in 2017. “It’s such a

know. Every day, the prices of things go up; electrical wires,

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PHOTO: THINKSTOCK

When creating the budget for your salon project, Michael Levine,

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copper, etc.”While Ricci says investing in an experienced contractor is important, a good designer can make all the difference. “I would spend more time with a designer and getting the place looking right. There are always ways to cut back on costs once you get the design factor from a good designer,” he explains. “The environment of the salon is important; people want to feel like it’s a zen place to be.”

Since planning for a salon opening compared to a salon renovation is vastly different, Levine says it’s essential to keep your overall goal

PAY IT FORWARD Tips and tricks for planning a financially responsible design project.

in mind. “The goal of a renovation is to give the salon a facelift but not

MAKE A LIST AND CHECK IT TWICE

take you back to ground zero financially,” he says. “The goal is to have

Using a detailed checklist of your salon’s

the biggest impact that will inspire change in your staff and excite

needs and wants is important to help track

clients when they walk in.”

your spending.

PLAN FOR THE FUTURE

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION

Seeing and experiencing the end result of your design project should

When considering a location, spending extra

be enjoyable, but it’s also critical to keep your salon’s future in mind—

money on a prime location is money well

even when your project is still underway. “Operating capital is really

spent, considering the amount of additional

the most important thing,” says Levine. “You’re better off spending

revenue that walk-in traffic can generate.

less and having more in the bank.”

Jouni, who is in the process of building a new lifestyle spa concept,

SHOP AROUND

suggests factoring the first few months of rent into your budget to

Get and compare quotes for everything, from

avoid getting into financial trouble as soon as your newly designed

contractors and designers to furniture and

project is complete. “I really thought about my rent, my loan and

fixtures. Any money you can save in any aspect

building a nest egg that would set me up for the future,” he explains.

of your budget will help you in the long run.

While you may be basking in the glory of your newly designed space, remember to think long-term and plan for depreciation. “After

EXPECT THE UNEXPECTED

two or three years in a busy salon, you’re going to have to put some

When it comes to a salon design project, the

work in: fix cracks, repaint, etc,” says Jouni. “I’m not going to let my

number one mistake among salon owners

place look bad or downgraded.” Since it often takes a substantial

is that they don’t leave enough room in their

amount of money to create your dream salon space, it’s important to

budgets. Playing it too close can backfire, so it’s

factor in how you plan on making money to support it (and you!) for

important to keep a financial cushion when it

years to come.

comes to budgeting for your project.

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SALON INTERIORS

Worldly INSPIRATION From minimalist to ultra-luxurious, these salons feature unorthodox design elements that inspire us to think outside the box.

By Veronica Boodhan

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MICHAEL & MICHAEL, CHICAGO Designer: EMM Architecture + Design Photo: Dave Burk This 2016 NAHA winner for salon design completed an extensive renovation at the end of last year, combining two buildings that encapsulate its 20th-century architecture. The vintage storefront, exposed brick and original maple floors are juxtaposed with industrial-sized skylights, an open-concept floor plan and modern finishes, providing an opulent experience for its clientele.

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SALON INTERIORS

PARLOUR SALON, TORONTO Designer: Tyler Moore Photos: Logan Salter In the heart of Toronto’s bustling Queen East neighbourhood, Parlour Salon sets itself apart for many reasons. In addition to its clean, achromatic colour scheme, the salon features cathedral ceilings with skylights, a medieval chandelier and original church-inspired woodwork. Parlour is also one of the city’s only kid- and pet-friendly salons, yet you wouldn’t be able to tell based on its minimalist design.

The salon's owner, Tyler Moore, merged the old with the new, adding white gothic-inspired details to the open space.

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“I’ve always liked old houses with lots of woodwork and finer details. Parlour is meant to mimic an actual parlour in the old sense, when it would be in a house. Our waiting area is in the middle of the salon so it’s a little more inclusive and not intimidating like some salon designs can be.

I wanted it to be friendly and comfortable.”

–Tyler Moore, owner and designer of Parlour Salon

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SALON INTERIORS

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VIKTOR LESKE INTERNATIONAL, BERLIN Designer: Studio Karhard Photo: Stefan Wolf Lucks When German salon owner Viktor Leske asked for something “extraordinary,�

Studio Karhard delivered a striking space featuring tall black and polished stainless steel mirrors suspended from the ceiling. The minimalist design also features dark wood accents for a warm atmosphere and a rhythmically lit light installation inside a folded mirror glass wall.

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SALON INTERIORS

DAVID MALLETT, PARIS Designer: Steven Shelledey Photo: David Mallett Housed inside a luxuriously spacious 17th-century apartment with ultra-high ceilings, herringbone wooden floors and whimsical decor, the David Mallett salon was designed to be an extension of the owner’s personal philosophy: Hair should look as amazing in the real world as it does in the salon. Mallett takes a practical approach when styling his clients’ hair, teaching them how to achieve the looks in a private environment that provides attention to detail, in-depth consultation and cutting-edge styling.

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SALON INTERIORS

FOLM ARTS, JAPAN Designer: Tsubasa Iwahashi Architects Photo: Yoshiro Masuda Housed inside a shop-shaped space, Folm Arts salon was designed to match its surrounding aesthetic, blending in naturally with the rest of the town. Inside, the white walls are decorated with pale wood furnishings, complete with arched mirrors and a private styling area at the back of the salon.

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SALON INTERIORS

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TAYLOR TAYLOR, LONDON Designer: Lamberti Construction Photos: Taylor Taylor London Inspired by the regal splendour of 18th-century France, this luxurious London salon is in a league of its own. Combining vintage furnishings with opulent details such as a gold-tiled wash area, a brass cocktail bar and custom-designed styling stations, the salon also features wood panelling that evokes a warm, inviting ambience inside its extravagantly ornate and glamorous space.

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SALON EVENTS

Paul Mitchell Business rEvolution and The Gathering 2016

1. The threeday event was filled with engaging artistic and business

Details: Salon owners and stylists from across North America

presentations and

attended the annual Business rEvolution and The Gathering.

educational hands-

When & Where: August 13 to 15 in Las Vegas

on workshops.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS

2. John Paul Mitchell Systems co-founder and chairman John Paul DeJoria shared his words of wisdom with the jam-packed audience.

3. Attendees participated in Look & Learn cutting and colour classes, along with interactive business development classes.

4. The event’s glamorous Black Tie Affair provided the perfect opportunity to mix and mingle with fellow salon professionals.

5. The Gathering’s grand finale show featured a range of inspirational looks from Paul Mitchell’s latest colour lines, The Demi and Pop XG, along with a sneak preview of the brand’s new SALON MAGAZINE English edition, USPS 015-615 is published monthly, except for February, June, August and December, by SALON COMMUNICATIONS INC. 183 Bathurst Street, Suite 202, Toronto, Ontario, M5T 2R7, Canada. US office of publication: 2221 Niagara Falls Blvd, Niagara Falls, NY 14304-5709. Periodicals Postage Paid at Niagara Falls, NY, US postmaster: Send address changes to Salon Magazine, PO Box 1068, Niagara Falls, NY 14304. ISSN 1489-7059.

Volume 25, Issue 15.

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Gen Z designed line, Neon.

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SALON EVENTS

Toronto Men’s Fashion Week (TOM*)

1. American Crew all-star educators Pete Goupil and

Details: Spring/summer 2017 fashion sizzled on the runway at

Matula Liounis styled

Toronto Men’s Fashion Week (TOM*). American Crew was the

the men with looks

official hair and grooming sponsor.

from the brand’s

When & Where: August 15 to 23 in Toronto

new Master of Men’s

PHOTOS COURTESY OF AMERICAN CREW AND CHE ROSALES

Grooming Program.

2. Toronto-based designer (and former Contessa winner!) Caffery Van Horne showcased his bold collection of resort prints, linen, swimwear and accessories.

International Guest Artists On Stage at Venus VIP 2016 Details: Hairstylists, salon owners and the industry’s leading artists rendezvoused at Venus Beauty Supplies’ VIP 2016 event.

Held at Sheraton on the Falls, in Niagara Falls, Ont., the event featured stage presentations and demonstrations from Revlon Professional, Unite, Moroccanoil, Peter Coppola, Schwarzkopf Professional and Reuzel.

When & Where: September 18 and 19 in Niagara Falls, Ont.

1. Marlo Steenman, Revlon Professional guest artist, 2015 NAHA Hair Colour winner and Contessa 2017 semi-finalist, showcased creative colour techniques using Revlon Professional Nutri Color Creme and Cromatics.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF VENUS BEAUTY SUPPLIES

2. Kirsten McIntosh,

3. Pro tips and

technical development

presentations from

specialist for Revlon

Unite, Moroccanoil,

Professional kicked

Schwarzkopf

off the official North

Professional, Peter

American launch of

Coppola and Reuzel

the brand's pARTy

were another

Collection at the Venus

highlight of the

VIP-only after party.

weekend, in addition to some pretty hefty swag bags.

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Exclusive Davines’ Event featuring Angelo Seminara Details: Metro Beauty Supplies hosted a talented lineup of guests

1. Exaggerated texture adds a light yet luxurious feel to the styles created by the Salon Pure team.

artists from Davines including James Abu, Christina Dominelli along with Anna Pacitto and Daniel Benoit’s team from Montreal’s Salon Pure. Each team showcased creative cutting and colour techniques on stage, bringing their creative collections to life. The show rounded out with Davines’ artistic director, Angelo Seminara, revealing the Rebel Collection along with Davines’ colour director, Edoardo Paludo, breaking down innovative colour techniques.

When & Where: September 20 and 25 in Montreal and Toronto PHOTOS COURTESY OF DAVINES

2. Anna Pacitto and Daniel Benoit created distinct looks that offer rock-star appeal with creative colour and styling techniques.

3. Rock chic styles featuring pixelated colour are an essential part of Davines’ Rebel Collection.

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SALON BEST NINE

OUR #BEST9 salon INTERIORS

Basically the corner of an art gallery @colorlab.qa

This quirky and whimsical plate wall @thelofttoronto

We’re digging this salon’s earthy vibe @bibasalon

This clean, modern loft style is #onpoint @salonsalonaz

A design with a #selfie wall in mind @bettiesandbaldwins

Modern look, classic chair @akinbarber

Eco-chic at Anderson’s Hair with reclaimed wood and pallets @colinoreillyhair

Clean white with a pop of colour up top @restless.design

Loving the masculine wall decor @chapsandcobarbershop

Follow us @salonmagazine and show us your favourite salon interior!

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PHOTOS: INSTAGRAM

Instagram seems to be the place to find the best #inspo for your salon’s facelift or reno.

Here are nine of our top picks to get your creativity flowing.

salonmagazine.ca

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