Salon Magazine, November/December 2012

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

Contessa 24 Finalists Revealed!

The Holiday Issue Best seasonal styles, makeup and nails, the latest collections and more

november+december 12 $5 salonmagazine.ca

20 A O 12 W F IN AR TH N D E OV ED YE A AR TIO

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never sticky or stiff. Restylable for up to 72 hours.

NEW POWER SPRAY

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DAZZLE TO THE NEXT DIMENSION showcase your brilliance and bedazzle hair with multi-faceted shine from start to finish. Try the NEW Trilliance Shampoo, Trilliance Conditioner and Shine Crafter wax, with rock crystal extract, for style definition shimmering with shine.

DEMAND IT FOR YOUR CLIENTS sebastianprofessional.com/shine © 2012 Wella Canada Inc., Mississauga, ON. L5R 3M3 1-800-267-1962 All Rights Reserved.

PATENTS PENDING. SUPERIOR ADHESION! NO-HEAT APPLICATION! NO-ACETONE REMOVAL! PATENTS PENDING. SUPERIOR ADHESION! NO-HEAT APPLICATION! NO-ACETONE REMOVAL! PATENTS PENDING. SUPERIOR ADHESION! NO-HEAT APPLICATION! NO-ACETONE REMOVAL! BREVETS EN INSTANCE. ADHÉRENCE SUPÉRIEURE! PAS DE LAMPE À INFRAROUGE POUR L’APPLICATION! PAS D’ACÉTONE POUR LE RETRAIT!

BREVETS EN INSTANCE. ADHÉRENCE SUPÉRIEURE! PAS DE LAMPE À INFRAROUGE POUR L’APPLICATION! PAS D’ACÉTONE POUR LE RETRAIT!

BREVETS EN INSTANCE. ADHÉRENCE SUPÉRIEURE! PAS DE LAMPE À INFRAROUGE POUR L’APPLICATION! PAS D’ACÉTONE POUR LE RETRAIT!

DESIGNFX POUR ONGLES NATURELS DESIGNFX FOR NATURAL NAILS DESIGNFX POUR ONGLES NATURELS DESIGNFX FOR NATURAL NAILS DESIGNFX POUR ONGLES NATURELS Se porte pendant une semaine sans Se porte pendant une semaine sans Se porte pendant une semaine sans Stunning 1-week wear without overlays Stunning 1-week wear without overlays superpositions superpositions superpositions APPLICATION APPLICATION APPLICATION APPLICATION APPLICATION 1. Treat cuticles. Cleanse nails with at least 90% 1. Treat cuticles. Cleanse nails with at least 90% 1. Traiter les cuticules. Nettoyer les ongles alcohol. Lightly buff. Remove all filings.

1. Traiter les cuticules. Nettoyer les ongles alcohol. Lightly buff. Remove all filings.

1. Traiter les cuticules. Nettoyer les ongles avec de l’alcool à 90° au minimum. Polir2. Select appliqué to best cover nail plate without avec de l’alcool à 90° au minimum. Polir2. Select appliqué to best cover nail plate without avec de l’alcool à 90° au minimum. Polir légèrement. Éliminer les résidus légèrement. Éliminer résidus légèrement. Éliminer résidus touching skin. touching skin.

FOR FINGERS AND TOES / POUR LES les DOIGTS ET LES ORTEILS FOR FINGERS AND TOES / POUR LES les DOIGTS ET LES ORTEILS du polissage. du polissage. du polissage.

3. Starting from cuticle, completely smooth out 3. Starting from cuticle, completely smooth out 2. Sélectionner l’applique qui couvre le mieux appliqué over nail. Firmly secure edges.

2. Sélectionner l’applique qui couvre le mieux appliqué over nail. Firmly secure edges.

2. Sélectionner l’applique qui couvre le mieux la plaque de l’ongle sans toucher la peau. la plaque de l’ongle sans toucher la peau. la plaque de l’ongle sans toucher la peau.

4. Trim excess overhanging appliqué around 4. Trim excess overhanging appliqué around 3. En partant de la cuticule, lisser 3. En partant de la cuticule, lisser 3. En partant de la cuticule, lisser free edge. free edge. complètement l’applique sur l’ongle. Fixer complètement l’applique sur l’ongle. Fixer complètement l’applique sur l’ongle. Fixer 5. Make appliqué flush with nail by filing around 5. Make appliqué flush with nail by filing around fermement les bords. fermement les bords. fermement les bords. and under free edge. and under free edge.

4. Couper l’excès d’applique qui dépasse du 4. Couper l’excès d’applique qui dépasse du 4. Couper l’excès d’applique qui dépasse du Technical Tip: For best adhesion without lifting, Technical Tip: For best adhesion without lifting, bord libre. bord libre. bord libre. first use a 80-100 grit file to remove excess first use a 80-100 grit file to remove excess 5. Limer autour et sous le bord libre jusqu’à ceappliqué, then a 180-240 grit file in one 5. Limer autour et sous le bord libre jusqu’à ceappliqué, then a 180-240 grit file in one 5. Limer autour et sous le bord libre jusqu’à ce que l’applique affleure l’ongle naturel. que l’applique affleure l’ongle naturel. que l’applique affleure l’ongle naturel. direction to make flush. Fine tune using a 240 direction to make flush. Fine tune using a 240 Conseil Technique: Pour une meilleure grit file in one direction to ensure as smooth Conseil Technique: Pour une meilleure grit file in one direction to ensure as smooth Conseil Technique: Pour une meilleure adhérence sans soulèvement, utiliser adhérence sans soulèvement, utiliser adhérence sans soulèvement, utiliser finish with no frayed edges. finish with no frayed edges. d’abord une lime de 80 à 100 grains pour d’abord une lime de 80 à 100 grains pour d’abord une lime de 80 à 100 grains pour éliminer l’excès d’applique, puis une lime DESIGNFX WITH GELIFE POLISH-ON éliminer l’excès d’applique, puis une lime DESIGNFX WITH GELIFE POLISH-ON éliminer l’excès d’applique, puis une lime DESIGNFX WITH GELIFE POLISH-ON de 180 à 240 grains dans une direction SOAK-OFF GEL de 180 à 240 grains dans une direction SOAK-OFF GEL de 180 à 240 grains dans une direction SOAK-OFF GEL pour égaliser. Finir avec une lime de 240 Extended 2-week wear with deep pour égaliser. Finir avec une lime de 240 Extended 2-week wear with deep pour égaliser. Finir avec une lime de 240 Extended 2-week wear with deep grains dans une direction pour garantir un dimensional shine. Follow Steps 1-5 for grains dans une direction pour garantir un dimensional shine. Follow Steps 1-5 for grains dans une direction pour garantir un dimensional shine. Follow Steps 1-5 for fini lisse sans bords effilochés. fini lisse sans bords effilochés. fini lisse sans bords effilochés. natural nail application, then: natural nail application, then: natural nail application, then: 6. Apply 1 layer of Dashing Diva Gelife Base Gel. 6. Apply 1 layer of Dashing Diva Gelife Base Gel. 6. Apply 1 layer of Dashing Diva Gelife Base Gel. DESIGNFX AVEC GEL GELIFE DESIGNFX AVEC GEL GELIFE DESIGNFX AVEC GEL GELIFE 7. Cure 30 seconds in 24-watt LED light or 2 7. Cure 30 seconds in 24-watt LED light or 2 7. Cure 30 seconds in 24-watt LED light or 2 POLISH-ON SOAK-OFF POLISH-ON SOAK-OFF POLISH-ON SOAK-OFF minutes in 36-watt UV lamp. minutes in 36-watt UV lamp. minutes in 36-watt UV lamp.

Se porte pendant 2 semaines tout en Se porte pendant 2 semaines tout en Se porte pendant 2 semaines tout en 8. Apply 1 layer of Dashing Diva Gelife Top Gel. procurant un éclat profond. Suivre les 8. Apply 1 layer of Dashing Diva Gelife Top Gel. procurant un éclat profond. Suivre les 8. Apply 1 layer of Dashing Diva Gelife Top Gel. procurant un éclat profond. Suivre les étapes 1 à 5 pour l’application sur des 9. Cure 30 seconds in 24-watt LED light or 2 étapes 1 à 5 pour l’application sur des 9. Cure 30 seconds in 24-watt LED light or 2 étapes 1 à 5 pour l’application sur des 9. Cure 30 seconds in 24-watt LED light or 2 ongles naturels, puis: ongles naturels, puis: ongles naturels, puis: minutes in 36-watt UV lamp. minutes in 36-watt UV lamp. minutes in 36-watt UV lamp.

6. Appliquer une couche de gel de préparation 6. Appliquer une couche de gel de préparation 6. Appliquer une couche de gel de préparation 10. Remove tacky inhibition layer with at least 90% 10. Remove tacky inhibition layer with at least 90% 10. Remove tacky inhibition layer with at least 90% Dashing Diva Gelife.

Dashing Diva Gelife.

Dashing Diva Gelife. pure alcohol. pure alcohol. pure alcohol.

7. Laisser sécher sous la lampe à DEL de 24 7. Laisser sécher sous la lampe à DEL de 24 7. Laisser sécher sous la lampe à DEL de 24 watts pendant 30 secondes ou 2 minutes REMOVAL watts pendant 30 secondes ou 2 minutes REMOVAL watts pendant 30 secondes ou 2 minutes REMOVAL sous la lampe UV de 36 watts. sous la lampe UV de 36 watts. sous la lampe UV de 36 watts.

Fast and simple no-soak process Fast and simple no-soak process Fast and simple no-soak process 8. Appliquer une couche de gel de finition 1. Apply a generous amount of cuticle oil around 8. Appliquer une couche de gel de finition 1. Apply a generous amount of cuticle oil around 8. Appliquer une couche de gel de finition 1. Apply a generous amount of cuticle oil around Dashing Diva Gelife.

Dashing Diva Gelife.

Dashing Diva Gelife. cuticle area and nail plate. cuticle area and nail plate. cuticle area and nail plate.

9. Laisser sécher sous la lampe à DEL de 24 9. Laisser sécher sous la lampe à DEL de 24 9. Laisser sécher sous la lampe à DEL de 24 2. Starting from side corner of cuticle area, 2. Starting from side corner of cuticle area, 2. Starting from side corner of cuticle area, watts pendant 30 secondes ou 2 minutes gently push and lift underneath DesignFX with watts pendant 30 secondes ou 2 minutes gently push and lift underneath DesignFX with watts pendant 30 secondes ou 2 minutes gently push and lift underneath DesignFX with sous la lampe UV de 36 watts. sous la lampe UV de 36 watts. sous la lampe UV de 36 watts. a manicure stick until appliqué is removed. a manicure stick until appliqué is removed. a manicure stick until appliqué is removed.

Hint: Apply additional cuticle oil as needed to 10. Éliminer la couche d’inhibition collante avecHint: Apply additional cuticle oil as needed to 10. Éliminer la couche d’inhibition collante avecHint: Apply additional cuticle oil as needed to 10. Éliminer la couche d’inhibition collante avec assist in removal. assist in removal. assist in removal. de l’alcool à 90° au minimum. de l’alcool à 90° au minimum. de l’alcool à 90° au minimum.

3. Remove any residue with a cotton ball soaked 3. Remove any residue with a cotton ball soaked 3. Remove any residue with a cotton ball soaked in acetone. in acetone. in acetone.

RETRAIT RETRAIT RETRAIT Processus rapide et simple sans trempage.

Processus rapide et simple sans trempage.

Processus rapide et simple sans trempage.

4. Treat cuticles and nails with cuticle oil.

4. Treat cuticles and nails with cuticle oil.

4. Treat cuticles and nails with cuticle oil.

1. Appliquer une couche généreuse d’huile 1. Appliquer une couche généreuse d’huile 1. Appliquer une couche généreuse d’huile pour cuticules autour de la cuticule et de la pour cuticules autour de la cuticule et de la pour cuticules autour de la cuticule et de la plaque de l’ongle. plaque de l’ongle. plaque de l’ongle.

2. Commencer par un coin de la zone de la 2. Commencer par un coin de la zone de la 2. Commencer par un coin de la zone de la cuticule en poussant délicatement et en cuticule en poussant délicatement et en cuticule en poussant délicatement et en soulevant sous l’appliquer DesignFX avec un soulevant sous l’appliquer DesignFX avec un soulevant sous l’appliquer DesignFX avec un bâtonnet à manucure. Continuer jusqu’à ce bâtonnet à manucure. Continuer jusqu’à ce bâtonnet à manucure. Continuer jusqu’à ce que l’ongle soit complètement enlevé. que l’ongle soit complètement enlevé. que l’ongle soit complètement enlevé.

Conseil: Appliquer plus d’huile pour cuticules Conseil: Appliquer plus d’huile pour cuticules Conseil: Appliquer plus d’huile pour cuticules ITEM# DFXBP003 ITEM# DFXBP003 ITEM# DFXP001 au besoin pour faciliter le retrait. au besoin pour faciliter le retrait. au besoin pour faciliter le retrait.

TOUCH OF BLING STARLIT NIGHT 3. Éliminer tout résidu avec une boule d’ouate GIFT RAPT 3. Éliminer tout résidu avec une boule d’ouate 3. Éliminer tout résidu avec une boule d’ouate trempée dans l’acétone. trempée dans l’acétone. trempée dans l’acétone.

KEEP OUT OF CHILDREN’S REACH. KEEP OUT OF CHILDREN’S REACH. KEEP OUT OF CHILDREN’S REACH. GARDER HORS DE PORTÉE DES ENFANTS. GARDER HORS DE PORTÉE DES ENFANTS. 4. Traiter les cuticules et les ongles avec l’huileGARDER HORS DE PORTÉE DES ENFANTS. 4. Traiter les cuticules et les ongles avec l’huile 4. Traiter les cuticules et les ongles avec l’huile pour cuticules. pour cuticules. pour cuticules.

MADE IN KOREA. FABRIQUÉ EN CORÉE. MADE IN KOREA. FABRIQUÉ EN CORÉE. MADE IN KOREA. FABRIQUÉ EN CORÉE. DESIGNFX FOR NATURAL NAILS Stunning 1-week wear without overlays

APPLICATION 1. Treat cuticles. Cleanse nails with at least 90% alcohol. Lightly buff. Remove all filings.

2. Select appliqué to best cover nail plate without touching skin.

3. Starting from cuticle, completely smooth out appliqué over nail. Firmly secure edges.

4. Trim excess overhanging appliqué around free edge.

5. Make appliqué flush with nail by filing around and under free edge.

Technical Tip: For best adhesion without lifting, first use a 80-100 grit file to remove excess appliqué, then a 180-240 grit file in one direction to make flush. Fine tune using a 240 grit file in one direction to ensure as smooth finish with no frayed edges.

INGREDIENTS (INGRÉDIENTS): 2-ETHYLHEXYL ESTER 2-PROPENOIC ACID, POLYACRYLIC ACID, HYDROXYCYCLOHEXYL PHENYL KETONE ©2012 DASHING DIVA FRANCHISE CORP. PORT WASHINGTON, NEW YORK 11050 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED WWW.DASHINGDIVAPRO.COM

INGREDIENTS (INGRÉDIENTS): 2-ETHYLHEXYL ESTER 2-PROPENOIC ACID, POLYACRYLIC ACID, HYDROXYCYCLOHEXYL PHENYL KETONE ©2012 DASHING DIVA FRANCHISE CORP. 36 APPLIQUÉS PORT WASHINGTON, NEW YORK 11050 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED WWW.DASHINGDIVAPRO.COM

9 SIZES /TAILLES

INGREDIENTS (INGRÉDIENTS): 2-ETHYLHEXYL ESTER 2-PROPENOIC ACID, POLYACRYLIC ACID, HYDROXYCYCLOHEXYL PHENYL KETONE ©2012 DASHING DIVA FRANCHISE CORP. PORT WASHINGTON, NEW YORK 11050 36 APPLIQUÉS ALL RIGHTS RESERVED WWW.DASHINGDIVAPRO.COM

9 SIZES /TAILLES

FOR FINGERS AND TOES / POUR LES DOIGTS ET LES ORTEILS

2 SHEETS

68

frank apostolopoulos, biba creative director, melbourne, australia

nov.+dEc.12

fEaturEs 38 42 46

12

Hair for tHE Holidays

The hottest looks for the season, plus tips on styling with extensions

48

colour mE bEautiful

Help clients put their best faces forward for winter holiday parties

2012: a yEar in Hair

Who made the headlines in hair? Time for a trip down memory lane and a peek at the biggest stories!

s a l o n > november+december 12

86

collEctions

People Hairdressing Collective Team; Angelo Seminara for Davines; Allen Ruiz; CND; Christophe Gaillet; Mazella & Palmer; Shay Dempsey, Michael Polsinelli and Ed Moelands for Sebastian; Frank Apostolopous; Timothy Switzer; and Peter Cartman and Antony Hall Calum Tierney for Terence Paul

contEssa 24 finalists

Congratulations to all of this year's finalists!

Hair: timothy switzer, timothy & co. salon and spa, oshawa, ont. makeup: cody alain styling: matthew chow Photo: Greg swales

salonmagazine.ca

SOPHISTICATED NEW SHADES INSPIRED BY

BOND...

JAMES BOND SEVERINE

O N LY I N C I N E M A S

™

THE DANGEROUS SHADES

LACQUERS FROM LEFT TO RIGHT:

The World is Not Enough, Live and Let Die, On Her Majesty’s Secret Service e*, The Living Daylights, Tomorrow Never Dies*, Moonraker

Call 800.341.9999 ©2012 OPI Products Inc. CONTAINS NO DBP, TOLUENE, OR FORMALDEHYDE *Also available in GelColor by OPI for a limited time.

Bérénice Marlohe is wearing Skyfall and GoldenEye. To get the look, go to opi.com.

James Bond materials © Danjaq and United Artists. 007 and James Bond Trademarks, TM Danjaq

THE SEDUCTIVE SHADES

LACQUERS FROM LEFT TO RIGHT:

GoldenEye e*, The Spy Who Loved Me e*, Die Another Day, Casino Royalee*, You Only Live Twice, Skyfall*

54

Allen Ruiz, Jackson Ruiz Salon Spa, Austin, Texas

REGULARS

52

Angelo Seminara, London, U.K.

16

EDITOR’S LETTER

18

PUBLISHER’S NOTE

20

SALONMAGAZINE.CA

23

HAIRLINES

s a l o n > november+december 12

Full Steam Ahead, p. 23; High Gloss Definition, p. 24; For Your Nails Only, p. 24; A Brilliant Head, p. 25; Green Sensibilities, p. 25; Crimson Passion, p. 26; Snowbird Beauty, p. 26; A Partnership for the Future, p. 26; Going Dark, p. 28; Banging Out the New, p. 28; Colour to Stay, p. 28; Cuts for Kids, p. 30; Sanitize This, p. 30; Toolbox: Ultimately Undulating, p. 32; Master the Twirls, p. 32; Business: Men are From Mars, p. 34; Shelf Life, p. 36

72

CONTESSA GALLERY

74

PROFILE

76

14

This month at SalonMagazine.ca

78

NAILS

80

ESTHETICS

82

INTERIORS

87

SCOOP

89

EVENTS

98

LAST LOOK

Two salons share how they sell their clients on nail design, plus all the latest launches

The future of skin care in the salon

Montreal’s La Rousse Espace Beauté

Amber George shares her collection from the 23rd Annual Contessa Awards

A Calgary hairstylist travels the world, using her skills to benefit those in need

COLOUR

Guiding clients through making a major colour change

salonmagazine.ca

NEW SERVICE IN YOUR SALON

NEW

GLOSS

GIVE YOUR CLIENT

HIGH-GLOSS

COLOR PERFECTION!

NON-ALK ALINE AMMONIA-FREE DEMI-COLOR GLOSS

TWO MONTHS AFTER THE LAUNCH; CHECK OUT WHAT STYLISTS ACROSS CANADA HAVE TO SAY ABOUT GLOSS SYNC!

“I adore the ammonia-free and non-alkaline technology of Gloss Sync! It makes me excited to be a stylist who can offer my clients a modern sheer color, while improving the condition of their hair in only 20 minutes. It is absolutely fabulous!”

Jessica Nicole Johnson Jessica Nicole Studio, BC

“Gloss Sync is a must for all colorists! The shine it reflects in the light is incredible. Its non-alkaline formula closes the cuticle of the hair to lock in the color and gives an amazing glow.”

Sylvie Laforest , DSC Star Bédard Coiffure Sylvie Forêt, QC

AVAILABLE AT YOUR LOCAL DISTRIBUTORS:

“I have absolutely no fear of my color going dark or banding on clients that have multi-porous hair. It definitely gives me even more confidence in my coloring ability!”

Kate Skiba Matrix Artistic Educator, BC

“I had a client come in who needed a retouch with previously colored hair that was dull and slightly faded. After applying permanent color to the new growth, I refreshed the midlengths and ends with Gloss Sync and the end result was amazing!

Not only was her blonde hair toned and brilliant, but her hair had the most shine and sparkle I have ever seen from a color service!”

Bridget Goddard Violets, NB

EDITOR’S LETTER

elevatemagazine.com HaS HaD Some WoRK Done!

Finding Inspiration

» Mobile Friendly Site » The Beauty Finder ― Find a doctor near you!

Enhancement & Wellness News » Anti-Aging, Plus Contests!

‹

Scan here to visit the new elevatemagazine.com now! facebook.com/ElevateMagazine twitter.com/elevatemagazine elevatemagazine.com

16

s a l o n > november+december 12

Melissa Hill Editor-in-Chief

PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, MAKEUP: LANAGMAKEUP.COM

N

ot every day of your job will be The Greatest Day Ever.

Sometimes clients bail, others are a pain or your boss is on your back. Some days it might feel like you’re just going through the motions. Even when it’s your passion, it can become a bit of a slog when it’s also your job.

But, then, you take a class with a motivating instructor who leaves you fired up. Or you connect unexpectedly with a client, create a great new style and see the smile on her face. Or you put your heart and soul into a creative collection and submit it for competition, hoping that they appreciate your vision. And just like that, you’re reinvigorated and excited to go to work.

My job is like that, too. Sometimes it’s the best job in the world and other days, I wish I were swinging in a hammock on a Caribbean island. This past week, though, I was reminded how much I love this job, this industry and the stylists who form the heart of it.

This was the week that I, with our editorial team, got to call the finalists for this year’s Contessa Awards. All of those entries, all of that creativity, all the rounds of judging and tallying and at the end of it, we had the ridiculously fun task of delivering the good news.

So many of you thanked me and said I made your day or your week. I just want to say to all of you: You’ve got it backwards. It is you who have inspired and reinvigorated me, as well as many other staffers here. You’ve made my day and my week and, even, my job.

It’s reminded me (again) what the Contessa Awards are about: you!

We’re all looking forward to seeing you in Toronto on November 11 for the awards gala. Get ready for a night to remember and good luck!

Find me on Facebook at Facebook.com/SalonMag or email me at Melissa@SalonMagazine.ca. salonmagazine.ca

IT’S TIME: BE PART OF THE NEXT GENERATION OF HAIRCOLOR AFTER ONLY FOUR MONTHS, OVER 60,000 STYLISTS ACROSS NORTH AMERICA ARE USING CHROMATICS IN THEIR SALONS. FIND OUT WHY THEY ARE PART OF IT! “I did Chromatics Color on a client who had 100% white hair. The result was so beautiful and the client found the no-odor experience very pleasant.”

Karen Weir, Salon 56 Newfoundland

“I used Chromatics as a toner after doing a color correction, and the hair was so soft and manageable! Even after using a lightener with 40 volume, the hair felt so much stronger!”

Daniella Pacheco, Forever Young Hair Studio Day Spa Ontario “We've been coloring up a storm with Chromatics since we introduced it in our salon – and we LOVE it!!! The clients are impressed with the stunning high-shine results. We're hooked!”

WATCH THIS VIDEO AND DISCOVER THE HAIRCOLOR THAT LEAVES YOUR HAIR

Giselle Thomas, Salon Icon Saskatchewan

GET INSPIRED. BE PART OF IT. REDKEN.CA 1.866.9.REDKEN

To find out how to get Chromatics in your salon, contact your local distributor or call 1.866.9.REDKEN *Fortifies the cuticle for 2X less breakage when using Chromatics Permanent Haircolor System with 20 volume Oil in Cream Developer and Redken Hair Cleansing Cream Shampoo vs. uncolored hair treated with a non-conditioning shampoo.

2X FORTIFIED!*

PUBLISHER’S NOTE issn 1197-1495 volume 21 issue 15

s a lo n m a ga z i n e . ca

Editor-in-chiEf

Melissa Hill > 416.869.3131 ext.102 | melissa@salonmagazine.ca group Art dirEctor

Gillian Tsintziras > 416.869.3131 ext.106 | gillian@salonmagazine.ca Editor-in-chiEf (frEnch)

Yasmin Grothé > 514.553.4404 | yasmin@salonmagazine.ca AssistAnt Editor

Valerie Lam > 416.869.3131 ext.119 | valerie@salonmagazine.ca onlinE Editor

Jillian Wood > 416.869.3131 ext.112 | jillian@salonmagazine.ca dEsignEr

Stephanie MacDonald > 416.869.3131 ext.113 | stephanie@salonmagazine.ca AssistAnt to thE chAirmAn

Pam Fulford copy Editor

Jennifer D. Foster

Trust Me

contributors

Alexandra Innes, Chris Tsintziras group publishEr

Laura Dunphy > 416.869.3131 ext. 110 | laura@salonmagazine.ca AssociAtE publishEr

i

Jade Bateman > 416.869.3131 ext. 120 | jade@salonmagazine.ca

Laura Dunphy Publisher

sEnior Accounts mAnAgEr

Samantha Anobile > 310.926.9288 | samantha@salonmagazine.ca Account ExEcutivE

Megan Jeffery > 416.869.3131 ext. 220 | megan@salonmagazine.ca production mAnAgEr

Alan Swinton > 416.869.3131 ext. 111 | production@salonmagazine.ca opErAtions mAnAgEr

Karren Han > 416.869.3131 ext. 118 | karren@salonmagazine.ca circulAtion mAnAgEr

Target Audience Management Inc. T. 905.729.1288 | F. 905.729.0227 | salon@mysubscription.ca finAncE

Aylin Aykul > 416.869.3131 ext. 114 | accountant@salonmagazine.ca businEss AdministrAtor

Candice Besselaar > 416.869.3131 ext.108 | candice@salonmagazine.ca chAirmAn

Brian Light > 416.869.3131 ext. 104 | brian@salonmagazine.ca vicE-prEsidEnt & WEst coAst Editor

Greg Robins > 604.561.4971 | greg@salonmagazine.ca

PHOTO: ALvARO GOvEiA, MAkEUP: LANAGMAkEUP.COM

recently went to an esthetician in my neighbourhood for a service and I confess, I wasn’t a regular client. I was actually searching for a good salon. During the service, the esthetician suggested that I get a laser treatment. Well, before you know it, I’m back in the salon, within a couple of days, having a person run a high-frequency light over my skin. “Am I nuts?” I thought, as I flinched.

I barely know this person or this salon. However, she instilled in me a feeling of trust and confidence, and I felt like I was in good hands. We hear a lot about trust these days—or, actually, lack of trust.

Whether it’s politicians, government, media outlets and now, the Internet, who can you trust? Gone are the days that if you read it in the paper, it was true.

Trust plays a big role in the salon industry and the salon might just be one of the last sacred places where services are based on trust.

Although I don’t think we give it a lot of thought, we should.

The beauty professional offers services that can make a considerable change in appearances. Whether it’s deciding to go with a new fringe or choosing to get the eyebrows waxed, if there’s a mistake, it can feel disastrous. The beauty pro usually recommends the best-suited services, and trust is the deal-breaker or maker.

Trust isn’t just for fair-weather situations. It can also be an important tool when things go wrong. If a client isn’t happy with a service, the beauty pro can dissipate the situation if there’s a feeling of trust.

Understanding how important trust is within the salon can be defining and be your strongest weapon. Trust and respect go hand-inhand. Encouraging your staff to foster trust and leading by example can help take your business to the next level.

subscription rAtEs for cAnAdA 1 year (8 issues) $40.00 + tax 1 year (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 HST included. Canadian orders only, must be to same location for us 1 year (8 issues) $50 USd AddrE ss ch A n gEs Email: salon @ mysubscription.ca

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salonmagazine.ca

CO

G N I M

3 1 .

1.1 myindiehair.com

Hair: peter prosser, Makeup: victoria baron, styling: desirÉe lederer, pHoto: toM leslie

We’ve got contessa fever! With the canadian hairstylist of the year awards gala coming up on november 11, we can’t wait to see which artists will take home the top prizes this year… and we bet you can’t either!

if you can’t make it to the show, don’t worry! We’ve still got you covered...

1

Didn’t get a ticket before they sold out?

For the first time ever you can watch the show live from the comfort of your home through our Contessa online webcast! visit salonMagazine.ca on the big night for more details.

Online exclusive cOllectiOns See collections from Peter Prosser, Sharon Blain, Paul Hawes and more in November & December!

2

experience the glamour and excitement of the gala through live updates from our editors by following us with the hashtag #contessa2012.

Facebook facebook.com/salonMag

twitter twitter.com/salon_Magazine

Last month, we asked:

What dO yOu think Will be the biggest hOliday hair trend?

50

%

3

See the list of winners, photos from the gala and all the gorgeous collections on SalonMagazine.ca after the big night!

of voteRS Said

bRaidS

4

want to see the Contessa winners list on-the-go? Download our app (for the iPhone and iPad) in the itunes store!

Finger Waves 20% Updos 20% Loose Curls 10% celebrity pHoto: crestock

talk to uS! 20

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we waNt to Hear wHat you Have to Say!

Follow us on twitter, Facebook and Pinterest to stay in the loop. Don’t forget to use the #contessa2012 hashtag! salonmagazine.ca

health | wellness collection

COLOR WELL Prepare. Protect. Preserve.

The best in Color Care, Malibu C Color Wellness System sets a new standard of excellence with a patented vitamin crystal treatment to reveal unprecedented, long-lasting color perfection that will surpass the expectations of both you and your clients.

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Gluten Sulfates Parabens Propylene Glycol No added Sodium Chloride (salt)

color wellness shampoo/conditioner color prepare wellness treatment

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NEW colour enhancing shampoo & treatment for blonde hair.

Contains Lavender Extracts, Optical Brighteners to fight yellowing & Mango, Shea & Murumuru Butters for moisture & shine.

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Think of WHITE.BUG as a blender – mix with other COLOR.BUGs to create soft pastel tones, or use as a base to brighten COLOR.BUG on dark hair. Lighten blonde hair for a day with no risk of chemical dehydration.

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HAIRLINES NEWS

Full Steam Ahead

L’Oréal Professionnel and Rowenta Beauty unveil an innovative styling tool

f

ive years of research and eight patents later, L’Oréal Professionnel, in collaboration with Rowenta Beauty, has launched a new ally in the quest for super-smooth hair. For both in-salon services and home use, the Steampod provides exceptional smoothing power and results. The smoothing iron delivers a continuous flow of pressurized steam from root to tip. The results are faster, easier to achieve and longer lasting, too. The device has five different settings adapted to different services and different degrees of hair condition, as well as a water purification system. With a built-in pro-keratin system, the Steampod also provides treatment for the hair with dedicated formulas created to match the sensitization level of the hair, from normal to very damaged. It allows for fibre reconstruction from deep within, as well as surface coating and anti-aggression protection.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL

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november+december 12 < s a l o n

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hairlines news

high-gloss definition A winning formula to seal in colour

for your nails only

007 inspires this season’s goldfingers

T

omorrow never dies for James Bond, even after 50 years of action, glory and glamour.

OPI celebrates with Skyfall, a collection inspired by the seductive movie themes in six rich colours, which is also available as “Bond-ettes” mini-lacquer. The powerfully armed Bond also inspires the exclusive 18-karat gold-leaf top coat, The Man with the Golden Gun. Let clients’ nails live twice with pure lacquer nail apps, designed to be quick and smooth just like Bond… James Bond.

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s a l o n > november+december 12

product photos: chris tsintziras, matirx, goldwell dual senses green courtesy of goldwell

G

loss Sync answers what 55 per cent of women ask for: a refresh for chemically-treated hair and a toning of highlights. Developed by Matrix, Gloss Sync is a clear, glossy, demi-permanent colour with a formula that has zero lift, zero alkaline and twice the shine. Available in 22 vibrant colours, the product is formulated close to hair’s natural pH and won’t grab or go dark.

salonmagazine.ca

hairlines news

A Brilliant Head Joico reveals a high-hold styling trio

Strength and flexibility. A fine balance in nature, but when achieved, it is something to behold. Joico has launched a new line of styling products so clients can exhibit this perfect balance every time they’re styled. Power Gel is an ultra-firm gel with non-stiff hold to the touch.

Power Spray is a fast-dry finishing spray that can be layered for maximum structure, and Power Whip is a whipped foam mousse to create body and fullness to any hairdo.

Green Sensibilities New additions to Goldwell’s Dualsenses spills over with nature’s goodness

C

ombining the classic composition of sunreflect richness and hair repair from the original line, Dualsenses Green taps into nature’s best with True Color for colour-treated hair, Pure Repair for distressed hair and Real Moisture for normal to dry hair.

True Color is formulated with argan oil and sea buckthorn extract for the most vitamin-rich protection and shine retention for colour clients. Pure Repair is nourishing, made with regenerative shea milk and noni extracts, and Real Moisture is packed with the organic nutrients of aloe vera and white tea. All the shampoos and conditioners are free from sulphates, parabens and artificial colouring to keep the good in and the bad out of hair care.

Goldwell has also added to the Dualsenses for Men line, with Refreshing Mint Shampoo. This addition provides an energetic hair experience that deeply cleans and invigorates the scalp for all hair types.

salonmagazine.ca

november+december 12 < s a l o n

25

hairlines news

Crimson Passion Toast to the season with new reds from Oligo Professionnel

Q

uebec-based Oligo Professionnel is expanding its Koko Colour Solution line with five, new red-hot shades that are vibrant, luminous and formulated to resist fading. An oxidizing ingredient called pyrazole has also been added to the formulas for a more vivid result. Choose from Absolute Red, Fashionably Red, Cosmopolitan Red, Daredevil Red Copper or Lustfully Red Copper to help your clients move over to the bolder side.

Under this stylish palette, Koko Colour Solution has an ultra-mild, ammonia-free formula for shine and long-lasting colour that stays true for weeks.

Its exothermic formula, which gives off heat during application, is odourless and is offered in a permanent or demi-permanent result.

Resort makeup for clients heading on holiday When your lucky clients escape the Canadian cold for tropical paradise, don’t let them

go poolside totally bare. Cheryl Gushue, freelance beauty educator, Contessa-winning makeup artist and the creator of swimwear collection Cascata Blu, offers her top tips, based on looks from her runway show. “Always use a bronzer! Go for a sheer, natural texture, like a bright matte lip that goes well with a tan. I’d also use a cream blush applied with a brush to create the look of healthy, glowing skin. Also, a good idea is to dye eyelashes so clients can still hop in and out of the pool without worrying about runny mascara."

Don't forget the fab nails, either. Rita Angeline created graffiti-style nail art seen here for the runway show.

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A Partnership for the Future Hairstylists helping others around the world In 2010, Schwarzkopf Professional launched a social project, Shaping Futures, which equips young adults in disadvantaged conditions through SOS Children’s Villages with basic hairstyling techniques in hopes of a better future and livelihood. This year, the Christmas Wish Charity at Schwarzkopf Professional Canada will donate a portion of purchase proceeds from the new BC Beauty Bags and [3D]Mension Holiday pack to this initiative and give bright hope for those youth venturing into the hairstyling profession.

The new BC Beauty Bags feature best-selling BC product lines, including BC Color Save, Moisture Kick, Time Restore, Repair Rescue and Oil Miracle.

Photos: left courtesy of cheryl gushue, model Photo courtesy of oligo

snowbird Beauty

salonmagazine.ca

PROUD SPONSOR

hairlines news

Going Dark

Jake Thompson gives his formula for going from blonde to brunette When the temperatures dip, expect clients to embrace the dark side with their hair colour. Jake Thompson, award-winning and fashion-forward hairstylist shows how to fill and colour a honey-blonde, like Cameron Diaz, to transform her into a cool brunette.

START with a primarily warm light blonde developer. Thompson likes Revlonissimo 8.23 at 10 volume.

COAT with a warm medium blonde, like Revlonissimo 7.34 with 10 volume.

APPLY a dark blonde neutral tone that is not as warm, like Revlonissimo 6.41 with 10 volume.

Banging Out the New Line of artisan hair products with street cred gets app-ed up Bangstyle, the hair-care product line that created an accompanying cultural experience through its website, has launched an improved interactive app and new packaging for its products. Bangstyle.com is a hub for professionals and consumers alike. Stylists can upload images to share and discuss. Users can save favourites into “living” portfolios—a great way to save photos of client cuts for future reference. The salon locator function also pulls up a map of all nearby Bangstyle salons. The product redesign replaces the blackon-black palette with a high-contrast image on traditional black.

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Colour to Stay

Soma Hair Technology launches a new ammoniaand MEA-free permanent colour A colour technology that performs, Soma Complete Colour is the new deposit-only, no-lift permanent colour that offers toning similar to a demicolour. Safe and gentle, the product also contains keratin protein and sunflower oil to nourish and strengthen strands. It can also adapt to the porosity of each client, and promises to replace pigments without any need for fillers and multiple applications. Available in 19 intermixable colours, Soma Complete Colour is a compact collection with wide-open possibilities for hair colouring.

product photos: chris tsintziras, courtesy of bangstyle, celebrity photo: crestock

FINISH using a dark colour, like Revlonissimo level 4.41 with 10 volume.

salonmagazine.ca

Just so easy to match

Enjoy 84 Just Gel Polish colors with 30 more arriving soon.

Now in 54 matching mini nail lacquers.

Find the perfect match for your favorite Just Gel Polish. Meet our new nail lacquers ready to go for quick touchups or pedicures. Be a matchmaker.

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s just so easy with so many Just Gel Polish colors and nail lacquers.

Model is wearing Sensational Siren

www.ibdbeauty.com

HAIRLINES NEWS

Cuts for Kids

Hair tips for the littlest clients At Ottawa salon Chiquicuts Kids Hair Salon, the chairs are always lowered for their best clientele. The children’s-only salon opened in 2009 and has won a number of local and business accolades and is developing a Canadian franchise. President and CEO Fernando Martinez gives his top tips on working on kids' hair:

1 Break the ice. In their young minds, remember that a haircut

can be frightening. Before you start, ask what characters or movie they like and make eye contact as you converse.

2 Don’t use a spray bottle without warning. Warn them in

advance and shield their face or use a playful metaphor to alert them, “Here comes the rain, cover up!”

3 Give them something to do. Kids like to be entertained and

have a short attention span. Keep picture books or small toys that they can play with while sitting still on the chair.

4 Explain what will happen. Tell them what to expect and show them how the tools work harmlessly on their hair. For example: before drying hair, show them how the air feels by blowing air in their hand.

5 Smile a lot. Children tend to reflect the emotions they see on adults.

Sanitize This Be it a pedicure, a facial or a haircut, salon professionals come across as many sanitization needs as they do clients. Accel is a ready-to-use cleaner and disinfectant line, available in high- and low-level concentration for a variety of jobs and surfaces for the multi-service salon—

Accel HLD5 or Accel CS20 for the high-level disinfectant needs of estheticians and EcoLogocertified Accel PREVention Concentrate for hair salons, which disinfects in five minutes.

The golden rule is to clean before disinfecting, according to Kent Jones, Infection Control category

manager for Cosmetic Brands of North America.

To support the whole salon team in getting the dirty job done, York Region in Ontario has also created a simple online hygiene checklist called Be Spa Safe for hair, nail salons and spas.

Infection Prevention Checklist for Salons: ✓

Salon or spa worker washes hands before and after service.

✓

Disposable and single-use razor blades are thrown away after using on one client.

✓ ✓

Capes and gowns are clean.

✓

Electric razors, combs, brushes, scissors, crochet hooks and clippers are cleaned and disinfected between clients.

New neck strips or clean towels are used on each client.

View the whole York Region guide for nail salons and spas at york.ca/bespasafe.htm.

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PHOTOS COURTESY OF ACCEL, CHIQUICUTS KIDS HAIR SALON

How would your salon rate if Health Canada visited tomorrow?

salonmagazine.ca

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hairlines toolbox

Ultimately Undulating

An all-in-one curl kit gives stylists the flexibility to really make waves

You’ll love…

“Stylists can carry this kit to sessions and easily switch between barrel sizes while the tool is still on,” says Heather Coughlin, national education manager for Amika. “Simply use the heatresistant glove and twist off and on the desired barrel.”

Amika 5P Interchangeable Barrel Curler • Five clip-free barrels in different sizes, including a comb-embedded root lifter and tapered barrel • Heating range of 140° to 430° F works for all hair types and textures • Ceramic core that emits infrared light and titanium coating prevents heat loss and ensures consistent heat when in use • Obliphica (sea buckthorn) oil treatment protects hair from heat, as well as nourishes curls

hairlines news

Master the Twirls

f

rom loose waves to spiral curls, plus UV filters to protect hair. the seven Redken's new Curvaceous line allows products can be layered and blended for any you to create any textured style your curly-hair type. In addition to a shampoo, client desires. With curl memory complex, conditioner and mask, styling products hair is nourished, strengthened and can be include Wind Up, a leave-in reactivation spray, Full colour swirl, a combination cream and reactivated for brilliant and no frizz. as well To seeshine the complete collection, as Price's serum, and Ringlet, a client favourite that the complex contains sugar crystals to formulas for each look, go to SalonMagazine.ca. attract moisture and moringa oil for shine, provides frizz-free, weightless control.

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salonmagazine.ca

photos: ChRIs tsINtZIRAs

Change the way you care for curls

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Model is Wearing Suspicious & Trouble

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hairlines business

Men Are From Mars

F

or a long time, traditional hairdressing has been slanted towards a woman’s universe. Today, more than ever, men are interested in grooming and this isn’t the candy-striped barbershop. But the industry seems divided: How can the modern-day unisex salon court both clientele?

Three men’s salon owners weigh in.

The Faux Pas Watch your language.

The first thing that comes to Matty Conrad’s mind, owner of Victory Barber and Brand in Victoria, B.C., when thinking about what to avoid in men’s salons is emasculating terms. “The biggest disservice we’ve done in our industry is taking the masculinity out of grooming. As much as our industry catches onto clever wording, I don’t know a lot of traditional guys that really take cutesy terms like 'manscaping' and 'metrosexual' as a compliment.

Guys don’t want to feel feminine or high-maintenance because they want to take care of themselves,” says Conrad. Another way that language

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s a l o n > november+december 12

becomes a barrier is in the greeting.

Donna Beyak, international educator for American Crew and owner of The Men’s Room in Edmonton, differentiates handshaking for her male clientele from her small talk for her female clients.

Get proper men’s training.

Historically, the industry divided hairstylists who perfected women’s styles and barbers who trained in men's cuts. It wasn’t different until Sassoon in the 1960s, when the unisex salon entered the scene.

“Today in unisex salons, there is an over-emphasis on women, and many stylists aren’t fully trained in guys’ haircuts. Instead, they apply women’s cutting methods on men, but we need to learn fades and scissor-over-comb,” says Noel Naguait, owner of Mankind Grooming For Men inToronto. “Lack of training in classic grooming techniques creates a huge need. Hairstylists today are the biggest market for education in barbering,” agrees Conrad, who also teaches men’s grooming for Schwarzkopf.

Let’s get professional.

Attraction is an art form, so it’s no wonder that hairstylists must tweak their approach in drawing in business from male clientele. “There’s definitely an etiquette from dress to mannerism,” says Beyak, who has a number of female staff. “Stylists should look classy and professional to attract men on that business level.”

The Tips Ask the guys.

Sounds simple, but for salons looking to break into the men’s market, a good starting point is a consultation. That’s what Beyak did before she opened The Men’s Room. “I brought in 11 men for a beer-tasting and surveyed them on what their wishlist for a men’s salon would be,” says Beyak. Fielding comments on everything from decor to services, this list can help salon owners better understand their target demographic.

Give them some privacy.

If space allows, create a lounge just

for men. “Guys don’t like seeing other guys getting services done right next to them, so, if possible, put aside a semi-private area where they can have their massage or hot towel and shave,” says Conrad, who also gives a nod to Winnipeg salon Berns & Black Salon and Spa on its separated room for men’s services.

Stand behind your brand.

Establishing a good relationship with your sales rep also provides support in expanding the reach of your salon’s network and brand. “American Crew sets up our staff with training on trends and techniques, and we style celebrities at events like the Toronto International Film Festival lounge,” says Naguait.

Everyday signage and retail displays also help to communicate a consistent impression of men’s haircare and grooming. Beyak agrees: “Ask your sales rep for merchandising support so that guys see a trusted brand just for men.”

contessa 24, semi-finalist, men’s hairstylist, a michael levine salon, vancouver, hair: alina friesen, makeup: jena jacquoi-boisvenu, stylist: vincent lee, photos: mark yammine, text: valerie lam

With the rising popularity of men’s hairstyling, do you know what makes male clients tick?

salonmagazine.ca

hairlines shelf life

1

1

rough it uP New Un.Dressed fibre paste from Kevin.Murphy offers flexible control for loose, undone hair. Info: kevinmurphy.com.au

4

4

2

2

5

Colour Play Give clients fun, temporary colour with Schwarzkopf Professional's IGORA Expert Mousse in 13 conditioning shades. Info: schwarzkopf-professional.com

Vitamin Power Dermalogica’s new Age Smart Multivitamin Power Serum protects against skin with vitamins A, C and E. Info: dermalogica.com

5

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6

mythiC emPire Get all the benefits of nourishing oils. L’Oréal Professionnel’s Mythic Oil is now available in a shampoo, conditioner, milk mist and mask.

Info: lorealprofessionnel. com S

Photo: Chris tsintziras, text: valerie lam

3

6

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oomPh! Get dynamic root lift, lasting volume and matte finish with Resurrection Style Dust by Label.M. Info: labelm.co.uk

Freeze Frame Secure hair in place all day long and finish holiday styles with special edition Matrix Vavoom Freezing Spray.

Info: matrix.com

salonmagazine.ca

FASHION MANAGEMENT DEGREE A 4 -YEAR BACHELOR OF COMMERCE

10 DEGREES OF CHOICE* ALLOW YOU TO DECIDE ON YOUR SPECIALTY AFTER TWO COMMON YEARS OF BUSINESS STUDIES. *View all 10 degrees of choice at business.humber.ca/degrees

Hair for the Holidays The hottest looks for the season, plus tips on styling with extensions

By Melissa Hill

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ADDITIONAL REPORTING BY VALERIE LAM; HAIR: VIVIENNE MACKINDER FOR SIMPLICITY HAIR EXTENSIONS, MAKEUP: DAVID MADERICH, STYLING: MONTGOMERY FRAZIER, PHOTOS: ROBERTO LIGRESTI

the holiday issue

salonmagazine.ca

T

'

is the season to hear the cash register ring! For stylists and owners, the influx of the clients into the salon to prep for a multitude of holiday get-togethers is a welcome shot of energy—and revenue. Are you prepared to offer your clients the latest styles and guide them in the right direction?

Do… Your homework and have inspiration images on hand.

“I think every hairstylist should have an iPad so they have folders that are available at a quick glance and have hairstyles that are formal and done, and equally very undone,” says Vivienne Mackinder, artistic director for Simplicity Hair Extensions, of her approach to special occasion styles. “There are women who want it relaxed. They just don’t want very done ‘dos. And then there are women who will want that polished look. So I think you have to build that repertoire and build your skills around a broad spectrum so you really do have many things to offer the client.”

Don’t… Forget to look critically.

When scoping out how your masterpiece is coming along, be sure to take into account more than just what’s above the neck. “You really have to step back. And this is probably the biggest caution and the biggest problem hairstylists have: we just look at the head, and the hair, but we don’t take the time to stand the client up, look at her height, her body type and say, ‘Would this actually work?’” says Mackinder.

Do… Be nostalgic.

According to Mackinder, the 1920s to 1940s are having the most influence on styles right now. When she created the collection published with this story, she turned to things like the upcoming The Great Gatsby to feed the looks. “I’m sure there will be a revisit into that whole world: very exuberant, flamboyant, very over-thetop period of history,” she says. “I think that fun playfulness is something that people can really relate to, especially right now.”

salonmagazine.ca

Do… Accessorize!

Sometimes the best way to complete a style is with a carefully selected bauble. Daniel Di Tommaso, owner of Mane Society Salon & Spa in Vaughan, Ont. and a Sebastian platform artist, sees this as a must for short- and long-hair styles. “You can transform ordinary hairstyles, like low pony tails, with ornamental elastics or clips in the back. Often fashion is all in the entrance, but some pizazz should also be on the back.” For short hair, he recommends checking out fascinator-style hats and add-ons like headbands. The key words for any holiday accessory are sparkle and dazzle! t

Don't… Forget to look at the big picture.

Start by asking all the right questions. “Make sure you know about the client and the event she's attending,” says Silas Tsang, owner of Blushes in Ottawa. “You should find out what type of event she's going to (for example: formal, business casual), if there is a special theme, her planned attire, the natural texture and length of the hair, and her height and build. Collecting this information is a basic but vital aspect to ensure that the hairstylist can create a look that will suit both the event and most importantly, the client.”

Do… Hone your braiding skills.

They're still hot, and your clients will want them as accents to their styles, so if your skills aren’t up to snuff, get on it! “The versatility of braids ensure they’re an amazing way of transforming a tousled and textured look,” says Tsang. “They are a great alternative to an updo and they provide a more informal touch to the holiday season glamour.”

To see how Silas Tsang creates his favourite seasonal style, go to SalonMagazine.ca.

november+december 12 < s a l o n

39

the holiday issue

Playing with Extensions When a client wants the style, but doesn’t have the volume or length, turning to hair extensions can be a way to achieve it. From temporary clip-ins to longer-wearing versions, including the quick-applying tape extensions, make sure you’ve added them to your repertoire for holiday glam. Here are the top five tips for using them.

1

Be a bit of a perfectionist.

“In the application, make sure placement is correct for the various hair looks,” says Vivienne Mackinder, artistic director of Simplicity Hair Extensions. “You want to make sure that when you sweep hair back, you’re not seeing any of the extensions around the hair line. From there, it’s about a beautiful blend. I blend them in to have that grown-in feeling as opposed to that one length of hair that looks heavy and looks like hair extensions.”

2

Clients can save the university fund.

“Especially during the holidays, with gifts, parties and all the other expenses we go through, clients can still get their hair extensions without having to break their bank accounts,” explains Jessica Morello, technical director for Hair Treats. “Most salons charge by strand as opposed to time. Compared to the older methods of application that used to take up to five hours to apply, Hair Treats can be done in just about an hour, so salons are charging clients an average of $8 to $12 per strand. A full head of, let’s say 100 strands, is making hair extensions the most profitable service to add onto a salon menu.”

3

Create a plan first.

Whether the extensions are temporary or permanent, develop an idea of how you want the end result to look. “I’ve had situations when I’m mindful of which way the parting is falling at the top of the head and how the placement is,” says Mackinder. "Sometimes I’ll put the hair extensons on top of the occipital bone to get the thickness at the bottom of the hair or so that the top of the hair is free for ponytails, top knots or bouffants.

It’s about strategizing so that you integrate the extensions and you’ve got the versatility.”

4

Extensions aren’t just about going long.

“Whether the client wants longer locks, mega volume, a fun, new asymmetrical cut or just seasonal highlights for a change, the possibilities are endless,” says Morello. “It is up to us, the stylists, to communicate with our clients and show them the possibilities with hair extensions. The options are endless, and during the holidays, clients want those changes.

It’s the time of year I am booked back-to-back with extension clients, and the glow on their faces when they see it done is the best part of the job.”

5

Home care, home care, home care!

Make their time and money worthwhile by ensuring that you sell special products for extension-haired ladies. “Most hair extension clients believe that if they use a professional hydrating shampoo and conditioner on their hair extensions, they will last,” says Morello. “Regular hydrating shampoos and conditioners take into consideration the natural oils that our scalps produce.

The problem is, while wearing wigs and hair extensions, the hair does not receive those natural oils, so it tends to dry out faster than it should.” S

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COLOUR SYSTEM

UNIQUE WORLDWIDE Removable without acetone

the holiday issue

Colour Me Beautiful Help clients put their best face forward for winter holiday parties

W

hether it’s the glittering disco ball at a New Years’ Eve party, mistletoe awaiting the love-struck or an annual get-together to ward off the cold, the holidays are prime occasions for glamour. Three makeup artists share their top holiday trends and also talk about the direction of brows and lashes—arguably the most basic but shape-changing of facial features.

Truly Vampy Perhaps because of all the TV shows and movies, like True Blood, Twilight and Vampire Diaries, one of the hottest holiday looks is inspired by the dark and beautiful. “It’s not quite goth,” says Toronto makeup artist and educator Cheryl Gushue. “You’re seeing the matte lip that’s been happening for a few seasons, but this time it’s coming in plum and berry tones. With that dark lip, I’d keep the focus on the lips with generous contours and go light on the blush.”

Gushue warns that this look isn’t for everybody, but it’s got big impact for the girl with the personality. To complement this lip, Jasmine Dashtizad, Mirabella national trainer and celebrity makeup artist, suggests a bronzer for skin in order to off-set any pastiness with a fine highlighting glow. “This makes the saturated vampy lip a bit more wearable.”

Jewel-toned Smoky Eyes If glimmer is your client’s favourite, try this season’s multi-dimensional and multi-coloured palette. “It’s dramatic, with deep amethyst and emerald green, which create a vibrant eye without having to wear a lot of makeup everywhere else,” says Dashtizad.

“You can use a gold and green on the lid and purple underneath, almost like a liner. That’s what will give

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MODEL PHOTO: MAKEUP & HAIR: CHERYL GUSHUE, STYLING: TANIA PEDRO, PHOTO: MAGDALENA M., PRODUCT PHOTOS: CHRIS TSINTZIRAS

By Valerie Lam

Metallic and Textured Winter textures like velvet are a great complement to shades with sheen. “Try using a metallic pencil over the lid as a base and put a darker shadow on top of that to make the eye more concentrated, like matte metallic. Alternatively, this can also be blended using a coloured pencil with black on top, which looks cool like velvet,” suggests Gushue. Metallics can also be very versatile as an accent.

“Add a gold tone to the eyes. Not the whole eye dipped in gold, but mix it into the inside of the eye to add brightness to a smoky eye.

Smoky eyes can be done in any colour; it’s just the technique that makes them different,” says Gushue.

Big Wings It’s not only Brit girls Adele and Amy Winehouse who can make jetblack wings look amazing. Old-school glamour and vintage beauty is

Makeup Merry

coming back in a big way for the holidays, according to Kelsey Yule, education director from Pure Professional. “We’re looking forward to the big, heavy wings created with eye liner. Makeup artists can try the couture double-wing with either heavy or finely defined gel liner, which gives a richer and more refined look than liquid liner. The top lid would be a traditional cat eye, and there’s the option to do anther line through the bottom lash, which is much more fashion-forward and edgy.”

Scarlet Classic If there’s one thing that Marilyn Monroe and Gwen Stefani have in common, it’s being consistent with classic beauty. Expect clients to come wanting the classic red-lipped pout, and if they feel uneasy about pulling it off, Dashtizad offers tips on finding the right tone.

“It’s really about finding the undertones of the red lipstick that works with the skin. If you have fair skin, I’d recommend a more blue-based red, like Mirabella's Moi, as opposed to an earth-toned red for darker skin, like Ruthless.” t

you a coloured smoky eye.” For clients wearing this eye, keep the rest of the features softer and nude so that the total look is balanced.

A complete kit for all celebrations Get ready for a night out with SST Signature Series lip shades.

Perfect the brows with liner that stays from Pure Professional.

Get high-impact glitz with Pure Professional’s Powder Pigments.

Spa Ritual Lip Glosses are vegan, gluten-free and moisturizing.

Bodyography’s collection includes Dazzle, a rich, sparkly gloss.

Bodyography’s Glamoureyez duo adds sparkle to the holidays.

Sultry eyeshadows from Aveda’s Passion Flower makeup collection.

Méreadesso’s tinted Lip Treats come in shades for day and night.

ForFor dayday makeup ideas during thethe holidays makeup ideas during holidays from Kelsey Yule, Cheryl Gushue andand Jasmine from Kelsey Yule, Cheryl Gushue Jasmine Dashtizad, check outout SalonMagazine.ca.

Dashtizad, check SalonMagazine.ca.

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the holiday issue

All About Brows and Lashes

Saturated Brows A filled-in, tinted and sculptured brow is a great way to add winter-friendly makeup changes for clients. “Using a great brow pencil to build density is great,” says Yule. “Or you can also block out the brow using a piece of tape and smudge in the solid line with the brow pencil. Then go over with a matte brown powder, which thickens and saturates the brow easily.” Ideal for mature skin, Yule recommends a sculpted, dense brow that draws the eye upward and away from any fine lines or wrinkles on the lower part of the eye.

A face can be made feminine with long eyelashes, which is a service that makeup artists should take advantage of during the busy holiday season. Ekaterina Ulyanova, freelance makeup artist in Montreal with Pure Salon, suggests a complimentary temporary eyelash application included with the price of makeup services. “During the holidays, eyelashes are like a bonus for clients and a very inexpensive investment for the makeup artist,” says Ulyanova. “When I work in the salon, I always include eyelash applications in my client’s makeup, and other clients see the process and get excited to try it themselves, too. This holiday promotion will attract lots of customers who want long and sexy lashes to finish off their makeup look.”

Picking the Right Eyelash Line for Your Salon With eyelashes growing on the beauty radar, how can salons select an eyelash line that works for them? Yule weighs in: “It’s all about the band of the lash. Consider products that have a flexible band that is not too stiff and comes with a great adhesive.” As broad a range of eyelashes out there, Yule finds that the glues are just as varied and suggests trying out different kinds of adhesives. S

Lightweight Lash For a truly ornamental glam look, MICHA Lash Eyelash Extensions has created Paper Lash in five designs: Peacock, Peony, Blossom, Ocean and Butterfly.

Inspired by traditional Chinese paper-cutting, these temporary eyelashes are a great way to add a unique look for your client’s night out.

PHOTO: MAKEUP: EKATERINA ULYANOVA, PHOTO: ARA SASSOONIAN, PRODUCT PHOTOS: CHRIS TSINTZIRAS

Promoting Temporary Eyelashes with a Makeup Package

Watch a demo video of Paper Lash by visiting SalonMagazine.ca

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STYLE

Starts with Beauty Skins by Hot Tools ®

Filigree Scroll

www.HotTools.com Call 1.800.487.8769 for more information Visit our website for how-to style sheets, videos, and tips from the pros. © 2012 Helen of Troy. All rights reserved. (AW000892)

®

2012: A Year In Hair Who made the headlines in hair? Time for a trip down memory lane and a peek at the biggest stories!

By Melissa Hill

Bald + Buzzed

Shorties Without shaving it all off, other celebs made headlines when they cropped.

Anne Hathaway snipped her locks to play Fantine in Les Miserables.

Jennifer Lopez and Alicia Keys both went shorter, too. And Jessica Chastain got a gorgeous, mod bob for her role in The Disappearance of Rigby Eleanor Rigby.

Who knew that some of the biggest hair stories in the year would actually be about the lack of hair?

Celebs Robert Pattinson, Willow Smith, Cynthia Nixon, Kellie Pickler and Charlize Theron all buzzed off their locks.

The Mars Curiosity Rover landing was also slightly overshadowed by the cool, shaved style worn by one of the mission technicians, Bobak Ferdowski, who rocked a mohawk with stars shaved into the side.

Celebs Get Banged Rachel McAdams, Kelly Clarkson, Rihanna, Nicole Kidman and Selena Gomez all went with fringes this year. Good choice or bad?

Blue is Hot: Hair, Nailsâ&#x20AC;Ś Babies?

Katy Perry went blue after her split from Russell Brand. Gwen Stefaniâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s little trendsetting son, Kingston, was also spotted rocking the shade.

Meanwhile, Beyonce named her first child Blue Ivy, then has been repeatedly spotted wearing the colour, including on her nails.

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Hair Odds + Ends When hair meets science and engineering, you never know what you’ll get. This year brought us sustainable furniture stuffed with human hair, courtesy of Ola Giertz.

The Japanese, meanwhile, created a hairwashing robot designed to replicate the human touch. Made by Panasonic, the machine is already in use in salons abroad.

And in May, a Dutch art director and designer, Elroy Klee, used Lego pieces to create cool, futuristic wigs.

the holiday issue

In Memoriam This year, the professional beauty industry said goodbye to a legend. Not a single hairstylist has had as much of an impact on the industry as Vidal Sassoon.

P!nk Was Ahead of Her Time Blondies Miley Cyrus would likely win the award for biggest hair change this year. With her end of summer chop-and-bleach combo, it’s a different Miley! She’s all grown up—and a little punk rock, too.

Blonde popstar, P!nk, was modelling a range of pastels—including pink—before it was cool. Now the times have caught up. Not only has P!nk returned to pink, so have a host of other celebs, including January Jones, Lauren Conrad and Coco Rocha.

PHOTOS: CRESTOCK, KEYSTONE PRESS AGENCY, GIBSON PHOTO COURTESY OF TED GIBSON, SASSOON PHOTO COURTESY OF THE SASSOON FAMILY

Kelly Clarkson, Rihanna (another multiple hair change artist), Adele and Elisabeth Moss all went to the light side, as well.

And the Oscar Goes To…

Royal Hair Drama Kate Middleton’s long brown locks have captured much attention, but it hasn't been without a bit of drama—from how much they cost to maintain to whether she has extensions. She also got caught in the middle of a messy breakup between her (now former) hairstylist, James Pryce, and Richard Ward, the owner of the salon where Pryce worked.

salonmagazine.ca

Celebrity hairstylist Ted Gibson has spent years campaigning for an Oscar category for best hair and, this year, the Academy listened!

Hairstylists will now be up for the big award, alongside makeup artists in the new category, Best Makeup and Hairstyling.

Congratulations!

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By the People W

earable modern sophistication links the collaborative efforts of Australia’s People Hairdressing Creative Team in its collection, A Collective. Though each hair look is individually inspired, from Tim Burton’s Alice in Wonderland and a theatrical interpretation of Donna Karan’s 2012 NYC show to disconnection and mixed texture on short hair, the images have a cohesive, modern mood made possible by clothing stylist Sheridan Tyler and photographer Ethan Mann. t

A unique photographic team collection combines individual talent

Hair: Amanda Henwood

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Hair: Andrew Newport

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Hair: Donna McClymont

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Hair: Hamish Glianos

Hair: Jana Pana

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Hair: People Hairdressing Creative Team, Sydney, Australia Makeup: Sarah Damichi Styling: Sheridan Tyler Photos: Ethan Mann S

Hair: Billy Sawichai

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Hair: Angelo Seminara London, U.K. Colour: Edoardo Paludo Makeup: Laura Dominique Styling: Rebecca Corbin Photos: Andrew Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Toole

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Timeless Harmony The future is light and fresh in the Powder collection from Davines

d

esigned by Davinesâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; artistic director and British Hairdresser of the Year winner Angelo Seminara, this new collection focuses on beauty altered by a magic veil of powder, which gently reduces contrasts in haircuts and colours.

It brims with a delicate, fresh femininityâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;perfect for the woman who is vulnerable, yet confident. S

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Weightless Watermark

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Allen Ruiz’s L’Azure Collection Wades In

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t

nspired by the fluid movement of the watery underworld, Allen Ruiz creates hair looks with the delicate touch of a water lily and satin-matte texture of a lapiz lazuli stone. Evocative and elusive like a mermaid, the L’Azure Collection gently beckons.

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Hair: Allen Ruiz for Aveda, Jackson Ruiz Salon Spa, Austin, Texas Makeup: Clarissa Luna Styling: Rose Tran Photos: Tania Quintanilla S

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For nail art tutorials with CND Shellac, go to SalonMagazine.ca.

360° of Glamourama

f

photos courtesy of cnd

rom the brilliance of the fall/winter runways comes CND’s nail designs, fit for every stylish client and made with six new Shellac shades. Think brocaded baroque, gilded elegance, imprinted patterns and nude hues to complement winter’s textures. S

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The Diva Collection is a modern, geometric interpretation of the greatest hits in film

Vintage Hollywood Makeover D-

S

t

hanghai Express, Secret Ceremony, The African Queen, Rosemaryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Babyâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;all Hollywood cult classics in their own right. Appropriately, French hairstylist Christophe Gaillet toys with the styles and interprets them in a collection made for the explosive spotlight.

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Hair: Christophe Gaillet for Lâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;OrĂŠal Professionnel, Biarritz, France Makeup: Marcin Szczepaniak Styling: Kamila Picz Photos: Remi Kozdra and Kasia Baczulis S

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• collections • contessas • video • news • events • collections • contessas • video • news • events • co

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Sylvain Beller...

newnew Salon Magazine appapp for for your iPhone for for free!

GetGet thethe brand Salon Magazine your iPhone free!

Browse the latest collections and keep up with industry news.

Check event listings, listings, watch watch videos, videos plus get the latest Contessa details–all at your fingertips. fingertips. Share what you discover on your Facebook or Twitter account.

Now available on iTunes. *Non iPhone users can now view a mobile friendly version of our website too!

PHOTOS: CONTESSA 22 WINNERS. FOR FULL CREDITS SEE PAGE 88.

Collections

• collections • contessas • video • news • events • collections • contessas • video • news • events • co

Hair: Mazella&Palmer Creative Team London, U.K. Makeup: Lena Hrncarova-Napoltano Photos: Elliott Morgan

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Mazella & Palmer curates its top looks from 2012 for a new collection

Mid-Season Prospects

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nspired by the haircuts and models from the 2012 archives at Mazella & Palmer, Beauty 2012 is an interpretation of these looksâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;but stripped down, to be worn in a beautiful and natural way. Subtle colours paired with precise cuts and shapes, Beauty 2012 brings high fashion to the pedestrians on the street. S salonmagazine.ca

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Kingdom of the Bling Sebastian partners with Kerin Rose for a visionary collection

K

erin Rose, a New York-based accessory and sunglass designer, has collaborated with the Sebastian Design Team on a knockout hair collection focused on shine and high style. Stylist and team member Shay Dempsey says, â&#x20AC;&#x153;We use Shine Define to create all these different textures and unusual shapes that need a little more hold and at the same time it also allows us to brush, bend and manoeuvre hair.â&#x20AC;? S

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Hair: Shay Dempsey, Michael Polsinelli and Ed Moelands Makeup: Peter Schell Sunglasses: Kerin Rose Styling: Lisa Von Weise Shaw Photos: Michael Pool

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Hair: Frank Apostolopoulos, BIBA creative director, Melbourne, Australia Makeup: Kylie Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Toole Styling: Leticia Dare Photos: Andrew Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Toole 68

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Transcendent Textures Cosmic Deco is Frank Apostolopoulos’ latest artful collection

“

i

was inspired by the genius of legendary filmmaker Fritz Lang's Master of Darkness and music legend Harald Blüchel,” says Apostolopoulos. “I really wanted to bring out a timeless mood to this shoot, referencing hair from various eras yet putting a current take on each shape.

Behind the lens was none other than Andrew O’Toole, who welcomed natural light in a deserted ballroom and created a story of incredible fashion with mesmerizing hair.” S

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Hair: Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon and Spa, Oshawa, Ont. Makeup: Cody Alain Styling: Matthew Chow Photos: Greg Swales

Punked Edgy cuts and bright colours illuminate street-savvy style

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imothy Switzer’s colourful new collection, inspired by ’80s British punk, melds an array of colour selections.

Yellows and oranges accent a blonde, while purple, green and pink create a non-traditional brunette. On the cover, true reds and coppers infuse the bright shade. The heavy brows, hair colour and clothing—a mix of leather and denim— all work together to translate the streetwear inspiration. S

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Hair: Peter Cartman and Antony Hall Calum Tierney at Terence Paul, Manchester, U.K. Art direction: Terence Paul and Keith Harris Makeup: Isabel Strobi Styling: Giuseppe Dicecca Photos: Paulo Renftle

Captivating Autumn hues warm the Juno Collection

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lamour, beauty and the strength of a woman are captured in this evocative, sensitive collection.

Glossy, healthy hair radiates amidst tumbling waves and defined curls like light illuminating everything it touches. Juno celebrates all the feminine nuances of a lady, warm and inviting like the season. S

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C O N T E S S A G A L L E RY

The Cobbler’s Daughter British Columbia hairstylist, Amber George, dreams up a modern Cinderella story

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he Session finalist's entry for the 23rd Annual Contessas pays homage to one of the most loved fairy tales, with a modern twist. “The hair was created as a collaboration between photographer, Angela Fama and fashion stylist, Joanna Kulpa, and the vision was to tell a story about a shoemaker’s daughter who is secretly a rebelling fashionista stuck in her father’s shop. Sort of like Cinderella,” says George. “The hairstyle and shape are very traditional, but we gave the look a modern, relaxed, editorial look."

Shot at Dayton Boots, her team worked right amongst the cobblers themselves. S

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Hair: Amber George, North Vancouver, BC Makeup: Marie Pearce Styling: Joanna Kulpa Photos: Angela Fama

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profile

A hairstylist from Calgary travels the world, using her skills to benefit those in need By Alexandra Innes

t’s not unusual for hairstylists to enjoy making their clients feel good about themselves. But 24-year-old Calgary native Jillian Norris took this desire many steps further when she volunteered for a two-year stint as the hairstylist on Africa Mercy, the world’s largest charity hospital ship.

The Africa Mercy carries out the mission of Mercy Ships, the world's leading non-governmental ship-based medical organization. It brings life-changing developmental programs and medical care, like surgery, to some of the most impoverished people on Earth. The ship is crewed by some 450 volunteers from around the world. Once on board for a month, a crew member becomes eligible for a haircut. That’s where Norris comes in.

A 2007 graduate of Calgary’s Marvel College of Hair Design, Norris was working in a Calgary hair salon when she first heard about Mercy Ships at her church. Then her cousin, a doctor who served for six weeks on the Africa Mercy as a fill-in for the crew physician, told Norris she could volunteer as a hairstylist. “When I first heard about the position of hairstylist on board I was interested,” Norris recalls. “And as I researched, I felt God telling me that this is what He would have me do.” She joined the Africa Mercy in July 2011.

At any given time Norris has a clientele

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of more than 300 people of varying nationalities and ages. Haircuts are free.

Colours and perms cost a small amount, to cover the product costs. She works Monday to Friday, with what she describes as “the shortest commute ever to work, less than a minute.” She enjoys knowing that her work helps to raise the morale of her clients.

“When people come in and get to have a hairstyle that they would have had at home, you see their mood change,” she says.

“When it has been a long day at work, or a hard day emotionally, they often leave happier with lifted spirits.“ Every Thursday morning, Norris volunteers at a special needs school in Togo, West Africa. The school serves 62 students with disorders of varying severity, from ADD to autism to cerebral palsy. Norris sings songs with the children, teaches them short Bible stories, does crafts and dances with them. “Really, we are there to just love them and make them feel special in a society where they may not be very accepted otherwise,” Norris explains. “I leave there every week just filled with joy.”

This year in Togo was Norris’ first opportunity to participate as a patient escort for the mass medical screening that takes place at the beginning of every Mercy Ship’s field service in a new country. She witnesses first-hand the hope and relief of patients who receive their surgery appointment cards, and it has increased the emotional nature of her work in the ship’s small salon. ”People tell you everything just as they would in a salon back home,” she says. “For me the emotions come when I hear in detail about the life-changing surgeries going on in the hospital beneath me. Like when I hear about a patient who I saw on screening day going home after healing from a cleft palate surgery,” she adds. “It helps me remember what I came here for.” S

‘‘ “When I hear about a patient, who I saw on screening day, going home after healing from a cleft palate surgery, it helps me remember what I came here for.”

Photos courtesy of jillian norris

i

Do Good

salonmagazine.ca

colour

Making a Change the top seven things you should know when guiding clients through a major colour switch

1

A good consultation is vital.

From suitability to the skin tone and complexion, to whether the change will fit your client’s lifestyle and image, assess all aspects of the proposed change during a thorough consultation. Preferably done before the day of the service, this also allows you to address the amount of time and money it will take, says Michelle Oliver, senior colourist at Kick Hair & Body in Edmonton.

2 For more colour change tips, go to salonMagazine.ca.

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Embrace the challenge.

Most colourists will only have a couple clients each month asking for this service.

According to Oliver, “That’s why it’s sometimes hard, because we’re not used to doing it all the time and going through the right steps.” But mixing it up by making a big change is good for both you and your

client. “It keeps us creative and it keeps clients happy,” says Rodica Hristu, a Goldwell artistic director and master colourist at De Berardinis Salon and Spa in Toronto. “We don’t get bored, they don’t get bored.”

3

There are ways to avoid saying “no.”

It’s hard to say "no" to a client, even when she’s asking for something that isn’t suitable or advisable. For Oliver, the best approach is to “give the client two or three different options.

Then, of those, I tell her what I think would look best and why,” she says. “The only time I would truly say ‘no’ is, if it would damage her hair. I won’t let a client go out the door with something that is not an advertisement for me.”

4

Manage your client’s expectations.

Especially when going lighter, the results won’t always be predictable—and clients won’t always be honest about what’s on their hair either. “The problem is that most expectations are too high and you need to bring them down to reality. Sometimes it’s hard to do everything they want in one sitting,” says Oliver.

5

Underpromise and overdeliver.

Always be honest with clients, but aim conservatively. “I’ll tell my client, ‘I’ll see where I can

get you to.’ I undershoot and then give them more than I promised if it works out better,” says Hannah Goold, senior colour technician at Capucci Salon.Spa in Toronto. For Hristu, it’s about the integrity of the hair. “Is it possible in a lot of cases to do it in one day?

Yes, but you’re going to trash the hair and destroy the canvas for a year,” she says. “Clients are generally understanding once I explain.”

6

Sometimes a little goes a long way.

Your client wants the shock value of a huge change but sometimes you can accomplish that with less than you'd think. “She might still feel really different with a darker perimeter colour and lowlights,” say Oliver. “Or add subtle highlights to the base colour and lighten the perimeter around the face.” That way she can try out the colour and get the feel of a big change without spending $300 and three hours in the salon.

7

Listen to your sixth sense.

“I think the best advice is: if your gut tells you it’s not going to work, have confidence in your decision,” says Goold. “It’s such a big job and you don’t want to get in too deep. If you’re not sure, don’t go ahead with it.” S

photos: crestock

W

hether it’s going from blonde to brunette for the winter or back to blonde in the summer, seasonal changes are the biggest driver for clients making a colourful leap. It’s a service that can come close to a colour correction service in complexity, time and money, so be prepared with these tips from colourists who are masters of both.

By Melissa hill

salonmagazine.ca

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exemplary educational tool that provides efficient and timely online education covering the four cornerstones of hairdressing - Cutting, Colouring, Styling and Barbering. MyHairDressers. com brings the worlds finest educators and the latest trends direct to you, without the expense of flights or hotels, saving you time and money.

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Trends and fashion move so rapidly from the runway to print, that publishers have to provide online updates between issues. The accessibility of MyHairdressers.com is an

Meet Callam Warrington Callam Warrington was a major figure at Vidal Sassoon from 1991 2006, appointed as Creative Director in Leeds, South Molten Street and then at the Advanced Academy.

Get your free QR scanner at: tapmedia.co.uk

He was fortunate enough to travel Asia with Vidal himself, in Beijing, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Korea, working on the burgeoning $200 million dollar Asian product business. He has created looks for numerous Vidal Sassoon hair commercials all over the world. Callam has been a signature stylist at various prestigious fashion weeks for the past four years in New York, London, Paris, and Milan working on collections by some of the most successful designers such as Roland Mouret, Hermes, Versace, Jil Sander, PPQ, Raf Simmons and

Lanvin. His editorial credits include Vogue (Italy, UK and China) Marie Claire (UK, Australia and USA), Tatler, Wallpaper, POP and Arena.

His sense of style has made him a celebrity favourite amongst stars such as Thandie Newton, Mischa Barton, Rachel Weisz, Amy Winehouse, The Kills and a legendary experience working with Zaha Hadid, the world famous architect and David Bailey.

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nails

Nail Art, Beyond Basics

Top brands: CND Shellac, Entity Beauty, Artistic Colour Gloss, Gelish, China Glaze

Known as one of the city’s top-notch nail salons, owner Leanne Colley has made luxe nail design into a wearable “elevated manicure” for her clients. She and some of her staff members are also staking out places in the editorial world, creating styles for a variety of magazines.

and we add it to the shadow box. It’s a visual way for nail techs and clients to see the range of what we can offer, because sometimes a visual can explain what’s difficult to explain.

How important is wearability to the nail design you create?

I won’t call what we do nail art necessarily, but an elevated manicure, with different colours on one hand or an ombre design. It’s a much more wearable form of nail art lasting two to three weeks. Also, what we often do is a gel and then design bold nail art on top for a special occasion, but clients are able to take that off and have a perfect manicure underneath.

How do you promote the designs you offer?

We’ve started a nail art box.

It’s a shadow box that hangs like a piece of art on the wall in the salon. Every time someone creates a really cool design, I ask them to put it on a nail tip,

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You’ve also created manicures for several photos shoots in Canadian magazines. How does that high-profile experience translate to the salon?

It’s exciting! Our clients can flip open a magazine, see the nails and say, “That must have been done by someone at Tips Nail Bar.” I can send someone from Tips to a photo shoot and trust that my nail techs can handle it.

They’re really excited to know that they’re doing something outside of what they do on a day-to-day basis.

Nail art by LCN artists: Alyson Ertell (left and centre) and Krista Cranford (right)

Locations: 10 in Japan, four in California and two in New York Owner: Noriko Tachibana Staff: Six nail technicians in each location

Top brands: Calgel Organic Nail System, Bio Sculpture Gel, OPI Gel Color, Gelish, Gelacquer, Orly Gel FX

Marie Nails started in Japan, specializing in gel nails and nail design. In 2005, Tachibana came to the U.S., opening a location in L.A. and offering gel colour and design. Salon manager May Ogawa talks about “Japanese nails,” which clients have come to ask for by name.

moons, and two-toned nails.

How is Japanese nail art changed for clientele in your American locations?

The “Japanese nails” that clients ask for is about the service we provide. We teach our employees not to be rushed, to take the time to view nails from every angle and take care at every stage, from filing to cuticle care, not just gel application. Even though our manicurists are very experienced, they will stay after hours twice a week and practise new products and new designs on models.

We are the trendsetters, so we have to create the newest looks and designs.

What are your most indemand nail designs?

Gradation, custom French, like diagonals, doubles, or half-

What first steps should salon owners consider, if they want to branch out into nail art?

Each of our locations has a different demographic—at Melrose [in Los Angeles], customers like wild, long acrylic nails, but customers from our 3rd Street location in L.A. prefer more sophisticated nails they can wear to work— so the demand influences what we use in the nail design. I would suggest that salon owners research their immediate area so they can hire nail artists who provide the kind of designs that customers want.

With an international reach, how do you leverage this worldwide source of inspiration?

We have a blog that all our salon locations can post to and share inspiration about nails from around the world. It’s in Japanese, but there are photos and videos updated weekly on the website ameblo.jp/ marienails-masomi/. S

top photo courtesy of essie, bottom photos courtesy of LcN, text: vaLerie Lam

Location: Toronto Owner: Leanne Colley Staff: Seven full-time, one part-time

marie nails.nyc

tips nail bar.toronto

Two salons share how they sell their clients on design

salonmagazine.ca

NAILS

Glitter Fingers Holiday sparkle your clients can get their hands on Dashing Diva’s Ring in the Bling nail appliqués for fingers and toes come with sponge and board files, all packed into a sequined clutch.

Perfect for the holidays, LCN’s Mystique Burlesque is a four-coloured polish masquerade.

Hydrate hands with OPI Avojuice Skin Quenchers Hand and Body Lotion in Vanilla Snowflake and Peppermint Shimmer.

For cool nights out, give clients a choice of four platinum shades with Holiday Silvers

by Artistic Nail Design.

PHOTOS: CHRIS TSINTZIRAS, ESSIE, TEXT: VALERIE LAM

Steely and sophisticated, SpaRitual’s new Metal collection is an offering of six strong, shimmering shades.

Gelish VitaGel Strength and Recovery are an LED/UV-light cured duo fortified with vitamins.

Make an impression with Ruby Ritz and Tinsel Toast, CND Shellac’s latest holiday shades.

salonmagazine.ca

Essie’s Razzle Dazzle Manicure kit features hot holiday shades, plus a base coat.

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esthetics

Into the Light

W

hen day spas became all the rage, many salons added skin-care and spa services onto their spaces and menus. Some thrived, becoming destinations for head-to-toe beauty, and some didn’t, returning back to strictly hair. But now, the next chapter in skin care in the salon is being written by one of the largest skin-care companies and it promises new success for salons. Dermalogica founder Jane Wurwand is leading a charge to bring services out into the light, putting them front and centre. “We want skin therapists to be outrageously successful,” says Wurwand. And she wants salons to see skin services differently. “Women don’t want hour-and-a-half skin-care services anymore,” she says.

The future of skin care in the salon

By Melissa Hill

Is it Right for Your Salon?

The concept is an evolution of and addition to the Skin Bar, which was launched in 2004. What’s new is that, in addition to putting skin-care services out in the open in salons through the Skin Bar, the spotlight is on so-called microzone treatments.

Express, focused, 20-minute problem-solving sessions that address one issue, like extractions or tired eyes, they can even be done while a salon service processes.

They’re perfect for clients who are short on time, but have a pressing skin-care concern requiring professional advice.

Although, Wurwand acknowledges, this approach isn’t for every salon/spa: “If you’re happy doing what you’re doing, stick with it. If you want your salon [skin-care services] to be about steaming and cleaning, scented candles and playing Enya, then Dermalogica will not be the right fit.” But for many it’s a retail and service success that fits in perfectly with the salon.

Revenue Rewards For the skin therapists in the salon, though, the retail business is different than it is for hair. Hair services make more money as stylists can see more clients in a day or in an hour, explains Wurwand. Skin therapists must generate 50 per cent retail for a profitable salon, whereas most hair salons “are lucky if they do 15 per cent,” she says.

Melissa Daniels, general manager of Dermalogica Canada, says salons are the biggest growth segment right now for the company, as salon owners look to add whatever revenue paths they can. This is especially easy to do, as the Skin Bars and accompanying microzone treatments can be set up in the salon without special accommodations—no extra laundry, soundproofing, plumbing, etc.—and take place in a barber’s chair.

photos courtesy of dermalogica

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Bringing the Salon Together “People like to see what’s going on around them and don’t want to be back in a treatment room,” says Daniels. Salons that are already full service can offer both—microzone treatments for the busy client and full-service appointments for those clients who want to address issues with a more traditonal service.

For Daniels, one of the best parts is seeing the hairstylists and skin therapists working so well together. “We work really hard getting all the stylists on board.

We have all the stylists come in and try it themselves first.” By putting everything out in the open, she says, “there’s so much more respect for therapist, and it’s a big revenue source for the salon.” S

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interiors

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salonmagazine.ca

5 1. A large painting in the waiting area made by local painter Suzanne Colello brings a serene, abstract addition of colour to welcome clients to La Rousse Espace Beauté.

2. Whitewashed walls, streamlined furnishings and pops of bright colour give the salon a totally contemporary look.

3. The retail area is clean with products neatly lined up on glass shelving.

4. Uneven stones give a natural, organic touch to the colour bar and dress up a column that anchors the 1,500sq.ft. space.

Photos: Le RoyaL st-aRnaud

5. The stylists’ stations are modern and sleek with their transparent acrylic chairs, round mirrors and a white-onwhite palette.

Details

Staff

Owners: Sophie Tessier, Elisabeth Morello

5 stylists 4 colourists 1 makeup artist

Design: Simka Construction Location: Montreal Space: 1,500-sq.ft.

salonmagazine.ca

Website laroussecoiffure.ca Brands CND Shellac Essie Kevin.Murphy La Rousse Makeup L'Oréal Professionnel OPI

Seeing Red Montreal’s Mile End Houses a New, Vibrant Hair Spot

By Yasmin Grothé

F

ounded in May 2012 by Sophie Tessier and business partner Elisabeth Morello, La Rousse Espace Beauté is a bright, modern space where celebrity VIPs and neighbourhood locals flock for their beauty fix. “I’ve done a lot of TV in my career and I started in hair with one of the best in the industry, Anna Pacitto. This has been very instrumental in building a great client base”, says Tessier.

Located in the hipster neighbourhood, Mile End, the salon’s interior was custom-designed by Serge Beaudry from Simka Construction, including whitewashed brick walls and painted hardwood and ceramic floors. “I wanted to create a soothing, minimal space with vivid splashes of colour to give it some character,” explains Beaudry. Montreal artist Suzanne Colello’s canvases also pepper the space with bright hues for a gallery atmosphere that is typical of the area.

The salon offers an interesting service: before- and after-photography for clients who wish to document their complete makeover. Last, but not least, the salon offers a 20 per cent discount to red-haired clients—which makes sense when the salon’s name includes the word “redhead”. S

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SALON MAGAZINE PRESENTS...

e UTION r VOLUTION GOLD SPONSORS

SILVER SPONSORS

Gala: November 11, 2012 The Sheraton Centre 123 Queen Street West Toronto

TICKETS ON SALE NOW! $165 until October 25 $190 until Contessa Night Call 416.869.3131 ext. 108 Visit SalonMagazine.ca

2013 FINALISTS CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Alina Friesen, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Zazoon Huynh, Käaz, Montreal Olivier Miotto, Glam Salon Boutique, Montreal Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, B.C. Alain Pereque, Salon Pure, Montreal Kye Pyeon, Suki’s, Vancouver Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton Chad Taylor, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa CANADIAN SALON TEAM Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton Blushes, Ottawa Civello Rosedale Salon and Spa, Toronto Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. The Hair Force, Mount Pearl, N.L. Hype Studio, Vancouver JC Salons, Toronto A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Planète Hair, Montreal Sound Salon Spa, St. John’s, N.L. ELITE MASTER Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Michael Crispel, Earth, A Salon by Michael Crispel, Toronto Johnny Cupello, JC Salons, Toronto Janet Jackson, JouJou Hair Studio Inc., Etobicoke, Ont. Edwin Johnston, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont. Anna Pacitto, Salon Pure, Montreal Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, B.C. Alain Pereque, Salon Pure, Montreal Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon and Spa, Oshawa, Ont. MASTER COLOURIST Rodica Hristu, De Berardinis Salon & Spa, Toronto Rossa Jurenas, Studio Rossa, Tillsonburg, Ont. Michelle Oliver, Kick Hair & Body, Edmonton Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, B.C. Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon and Spa, Oshawa, Ont. CANADIAN COLOURIST Simon-Pierre Daoust, Planète Hair, Montreal Timothy Kuo, Markus J Hair, Vancouver Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, B.C. Alann Sluser, KoKo the Salon, Edmonton Marlo Steenman, The Glamour Box Hair Studio, Edmonton Michael R. Shire, Holt Renfrew Salon and Spa, Toronto Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa Amber Turcotte, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Jessica Van Kuyk, Suki’s, Vancouver Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont. SESSION Andor Bubelenyi, Fuss Art of Hair, Edmonton Martin Hillier, The Lounge Hair Studio, Vancouver Uyen Huynh, Quinn’s World Salon, Saskatoon Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co. Salon and Spa, Oshawa, Ont. Caffery VanHorne, Studio Caffery VanHorne, Toronto

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TEXTURE Jenny Bell, WAC Hair Group, Markham, Ont. Cindy Duplantis, Koi Hair Studio, Brampton, Ont. Marie-Josée Dupuis, Escompte-Coiffe, Quebec Kye Pyeon, Suki’s, Vancouver Alann Sluser, KoKo the Salon, Edmonton

ALBERTA John Jen Hoe Chong, Blunt Salon Inc., Edmonton George Hajjar, Salon Pure, Calgary Penny Hicken, Catwalk Salon Spa, Lethbridge, Alta.

Jeff Louis, Elysium Hair Body Spirit, Edmonton Alann Sluser, KoKo the Salon, Edmonton

MEN’S Jeff Bernardini, Funky Toque, Montreal Matthew Conrad, Victory Barber & Brand, Victoria Phillip Elliott, Chrome Hair Design, Calgary Pete Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. Caffery VanHorne, Studio Caffery VanHorne, Toronto

ATLANTIC Alison Bradbury, Hair Factory, St. John’s, N.L. Stephanie Corbett, The Hair Force, Mount Pearl, N.L. Melissa Duguay, Eccentric Hair Studio, Moncton, N.B. Chelsea Sutherland, Hair Factory, St. John’s, N.L. Elizabeth Winters, The Hair Force, Mount Pearl, N.L.

AVANT GARDE Elshadai Erbeto, McKinnon Hair Design, Hamilton Alina Friesen, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Tony Jorge, RST Creative Studio, Toronto Sandro Macri, Salon Collage, Toronto Sean Theriault, MËDZ Salon, Verdun, Que.

BRITISH COLUMBIA Alina Friesen, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Timothy Kuo, Markus J Hair, Vancouver Dana Lyseng, Supernova Salon, North Vancouver, B.C. Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, B.C. Loretta Tom, Markus J Hair, Vancouver

MAKEUP ARTIST Jennifer Dionne, Freelance, Montreal Craig-Ryan French, Freelance, Montreal Maria Li, Freelance, Toronto Jakki Polyoka, Makeup by Jakki, Hamilton Gabriela Soares, GSMakeup Art, Waterloo, Ont.

ONTARIO Jenny Bell, WAC Hair Group, Markham, Ont. Frank Cini, Taz Hair Co., Toronto Erin Fernandes, Maria Bikas Salon, London, Ont. Lisa Sallabank, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont. Aldo Scopazzi, WAC Hair Group, Markham, Ont.

NAIL ENHANCEMENT DESIGN Alexandra Chrustel, Nails by Alexandra, Barrie, Ont. Allison Patterson, Beverly Ashdown Nail Studio, Saskatoon Robyn Schwartz, Polished + Pampered Hair and Esthetics, Grand Forks, B.C. Rheanne Thackeray, Vivid Hair & Esthetics, Lloydminster, Alta.

Melissa Dawn Zaran-Mayer, Rumors Hair Studio, Regina

QUEBEC Sandy Hogue, Panache Salon, Montreal Dobrinka Kuyumdzhieva, Käaz, Montreal Sophie Tessier, La Rousse Espace Beauté, Montreal Dominik Vincent, Styl-Lib Coiffure, Vaudreuil-Dorion, Que. Jason Williams, Kharactèr Style Couleur, Montreal

MULTICULTURAL Russel Bally, EGO Salon, Brampton, Ont. Jenny Bell, WAC Hair Group, Markham, Ont. Phillip Elliott, Chrome Hair Design, Calgary Alicia Marie Rollins, Pomp and Proper Salon, Vancouver Stacey Staley, Blonde Salon, Toronto NEWCOMER Melissa Blom, Blushes, Ottawa Kim Coady, Brio Salon Inc., Lethbridge, Alta.

Sarah Mak, Zinc Hair, Vancouver Brittany Smith-Francis, Élan Hair and Esthetics, Winnipeg Krystal Sobhie, Blushes, Ottawa STUDENT/APPRENTICE Leanne Curtis, Essentique Salon and Spa, Winnipeg Anastasia Kravtsova, Farshad Hair Studio, Toronto Natalie Litynsky, A Michael Levine Salon Group, Vancouver Amy Middleton, Salon Pop, Winnipeg Dina Morrell, JC Salons, Toronto

SASKATCHEWAN/MANITOBA Guy Lemieux, Berns & Black Salon, Winnipeg TJ Pepper, Élan Hair & Esthetics, Winnipeg Chris Pritchard, Daniel Christopher, Regina Brittany Smith-Francis, Élan Hair & Esthetics, Winnipeg Josie Vilayvanh, Élan Hair & Esthetics, Winnipeg SALON INTERIOR DESIGN Carte Blanche Coiffure, Montreal Carte Blanche Haute Coiffure and Spa, Orleans, Ont. Jerry’s Hair Salon & Day Spa, Winnipeg Salon & Spa Roxx, Sherwood Park, Alta.

Studio So Lara, Kitchener, Ont. JOHN STEINBERG AWARD FOR COMMUNITY SERVICE Artists Salon & Spa, Newmarket, Ont. Guys and Dolls Salon & Spa, Elmira, Ont. Karma Salon and Spa, Calgary Metamorphosis Beauty Group, St. Catharine’s, Ont. Quinn’s World Salon, Saskatoon BUSINESS EXCELLENCE FRED.beauty, Halifax St. Vital Unisex Hair Salon, Winnipeg Zennkai Salon, Vancouver

salonmagazine.ca

SCOOP

Better Together

Salon Magazine 11/12

EXIT Salon has joined with Blyss Salon in the posh Yorkville neighbourhood of Toronto. The merge brings together five of EXIT Salon’s stylists—owner Rob Pizzuti, Patty Tzoidis, Erica Stone, Carla McAuliffe and Jan Vandenbroeck—with Angie

Trovao and Lesley Kernan, owners of Blyss Salon. Pizzuti has known the owners of Blyss for 15 years and has previously worked with them. Pizzuti is an award-winning colourist with 24 years in the industry and chose to join Blyss Salon, the 2003

Ad Size for their work, skill and business model. Congratulations on the new partnership!

3.75”W x 10” H Contessa Salon Team of the Year winner, because of respect

Men’s Hair Reigns Victory Barber and Brand in Victoria recently held a pop-up barbershop at the Rifflandia Music Festival, a three-day event hosted by the CBC and local radio stations. “We actually built a real barbershop with old chairs, a teeter-totter shaped like a moustache and transplanted it into this venue, where we did haircuts for charity. It was pretty cool and fun, and we raised $2,500 for War Child Canada,” says owner Matthew Conrad.

TOP PHOTO: THINKSTOCK, PHOTOS COURTESY OF VICTORY BARBER AND BRAND

Photo coutesy Kevin.Murphy

INTERNATIONAL

BEAUTY SERVICES

The Men’s Room in Edmonton celebrated its 10th anniversary recently with a guy’s long weekend, complete with beer, BBQ chef competition, live music and hair and skin services. The party also served as an unveiling of the newly expanded salon space, which has gone from 1,000-sq.ft. to 3,080-sq.ft. “It was like a spa party for guys,” says owner Donna Beyak.

Giving Salons The Best in Education & Service SASKATCHEWAN ALBERTA 11348 - 142 St. 2623A Faithfull Ave. Saskatoon Edmonton (306) 343-3398 (780) 454-3388

Oops…

In the profile story in the October 2012 issue, the charity that SKP Canada is supporting this year was misnamed. The correct name is Shaping Futures. To read more about the company’s charity initiative, check out “A Partnership for the Future” on p. 26 of this issue.

In the September 2012 issue, the China Glaze collection was misidentified as Luster Chrome. The correct name is New Bohemian.

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Kevin.Murphy pg 22 ..........................................800-387-2962 ........................ www.kevinmurphy.com.au L’Oréal Professionnel Steam Pad pg 2-3 .........877-625-4735 ........................ www.lorealprofessionnel.ca LCN Colour System pg 41 ................................888-859-3434 ........................ www.lcn.ca Malibu C Color Wellness pg 21 ........................800-622-7332 ........................ www.malibuc.com/prof Matrix Gloss Sync pg 15 ...................................888-935-1885 ........................ www.matrix.com Mixed Chicks pg 95 ...........................................877-888-0480 ........................ www.mixedchicks.net MyHairdresser.com pg 77 ................................................................................ www.myhairdressers.com NAHA 2013 pg 81 ..............................................800-468-2274 ........................ www.probeauty.org/naha OPI Skyfall pg 13 ..............................................800-341-9999 ........................ www.opi.com Redken Chromatics pg 17................................866-973-3536 ........................ www.redken.ca Rowenta Beauty Versa Style pg 27 ................................................................. www.rowentabeauty.ca Salon Magazine Mobile App pg 63 ...................800-720-6665 ........................ www.salonmagazine.ca Schwarzkopf Igora Expert Mousse pg 4-5.......800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca Sebastian Professional Shine pg 8-9...............800-267-1962 ........................ www.sebastianprofessional.com/shine SpaRitual Metal Collection pg 31 ....................877-SPA-RITUAL .................. www.sparitual.com Credits from page 63: Tony Ricci, Ricci Hair Co., Edmonton, AB, Makeup: Sevan Tatoulian, Photo: Ara Sassoonian Olivier Miotto, Glam Salon Boutique, Montreal, QC, Makeup: Jessica Manzo & Julie Chabot, Photos: Carl Lessard Gian Paolo Colombo, Hairafter Salon & Spa, Toronto, ON, Makeup: Giancarlo Intini, Photos: Richard Dubois Lina Shamoun, Artline Salon, Kitchener, ON, Makeup: Giancarlo Intini, Photos: Richard Dubois Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, BC, Makeup: Amber-Rae Derton, Photos: Greg Swales Uyen Huynh, Quinn’s World Salon, Saskatoon, SK, Makeup: Uyen Huynh, Photos: Gina Yesnik Robert Barbosa, Salon Escape, Toronto, ON, Makeup: Boriana Karan, Photos: Marek Szkudlarek Sylvain Bellerose, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, BC, Makeup: Amber-Rae Derton, Photos: Greg Swales Christopher Deagle, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver, BC, Makeup: Jon Hennessey, Photos: Philip Jarmain

12-07-31 4:18 PM

salonmagazine.ca

EVENTS

Kevin Murphy Shows Off Australian Style

WHAT: Kevin Murphy, hosted by the team from Toronto Barber and Beauty Supply, brought hair highlights from Melbourne Fashion Week to Toronto, showcasing five looks created for the runway. The night began with cocktails and hors d’oeuvres, followed by the much-anticipated show, which demonstrated five hair designs inspired by “a dark surfer that you might find on the black beaches of New Zealand where the sun does not shine,” said Murphy. Hair was prepped by the Kevin Murphy Keys team, a group of stylists trained in Murphy’s methods who will soon do in-salon education.

WHO: Toronto Barber and Beauty Supply; Kevin Murphy and Tim McClean; Keys stylists, Kamila Benhabib from Mila Chic, Stephanie Cunningham from Albert Snow Hair Design Group, Rafael Bonilla, Nikki Reinhardt, Renee Martin Brown from Headlines Salon and Spa, Sharon Sugrue from Scissors Hair Care Studios, Loribelle Urrutia from Hair by David, and Bernardo Fernandez; makeup team, Cheryl Gushue and Jenn Santoro.

WHEN & WHERE: September 23 at Casa Loma in Toronto PHOTOS: VALERIE LAM

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EVENTS

Sebastian Shows Toronto What’s Next WHO: Sebastian Global top artist Anthony Cole and Canadian top artist Daniel Di Tommaso styled and cut models’ hair. Artist Zeina Dghaim painted two large canvases live at the event, which were later auctioned and raffled off, with proceeds to the United Way. WHAT & WHY: Six edgy, editorial looks were showcased on the catwalk for the Canadian leg of Sebastian Professional’s What’s Next Tour at the über trendy art space, Wychwood Barns. The audience enjoyed tips and advice from Cole and Di Tommaso about styling and shooting. Sebastian’s “Inspiration Wall” has travelled along on the tour, allowing stylists from each stop to write about what motivates them creatively.

The Sebastian team will use the notes written on the wall to help create strategies and tools for hairstylists in the future. Cocktail hour featured a photo booth, as well as Sebastian team members styling hair for guests. The event was followed by an afterparty at Tattoo Rock Parlour nightclub.

WHEN & WHERE: September 23 in Toronto PHOTOS: JILLIAN WOOD

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Fiorio 35th Anniversary Party WHAT: After 35 years spent building his brand on salon and spa excellence, Maurice Fiorio celebrated with his team in high style at the L’Oréal Academy. Over the years, Fiorio Salon and Spa has expanded to 10 locations in Canada.

Today, the Academy is the most important part of the brand, according to Fiorio. “We build people from scratch,” he says. “This is important to create a consistent brand. If you have staff who comes from the outside, they bring different influences. But building from the ground up, you can create a culture.” He tells his students that hairstyling is only 20 per cent. The rest is personality, which is a salon’s asset. “What we do at the end of the day is sell yourself,” says Fiorio, on creating a memorable, “wow” factor for each customer.

WHO: Fiorio stylists, students from the Fiorio Beauty Academy, friends and media members all toasted to the business success.

SOUNDBITE: “The biggest lesson I’ve learned is that you get more by giving love and empowering others,” says Fiorio.

WHEN & WHERE: September 20 in Toronto PHOTOS: VALERIE LAM

ABA Makes Calgary Beautiful WHAT: Stylists and beauty professionals from across the province came to learn from top stylists and educators like Tabatha Coffey, Charles Marcus, Gary Ahlquist and Lauren Gartland.

WHO: The Allied Beauty Association brought together some of the best brands and educators in hair, nails and esthetics for a weekend of beauty, tools and trends at this year’s Calgary ABA show at Stampede Park. Stages and exhibitors included American Crew, Alterna, colomer, Dashing Diva, Kenra, Kevin.Murphy, Farouk, LCN, Nioxin, Oster, Redken, Revlon Professional, Rusk, Matrix, Sebastian, Wahl and Wella.

HIGHLIGHT: Congratulations go out to this year’s winner of the Cityline Ordinary to Extraordinary makeover competition, Joanne Dicken, from The Fringe Hair in Calgary.

WHEN & WHERE: September 30 & October 1 in Calgary PHOTOS: REDKEN, JADE BATEMAN

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EVENTS

Runway to Salon with Schwarzkopf Professionalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Essential Looks WHAT : Schwarzkopf Professional artists demonstrated four looks from the 2012 Essential Looks collection. Eccentric Heritage is a mashup of the military, country and feminine with a strong fringe, blunt lines and less layering. The second look, '60s Twist, is a beautiful take on the long and loose silhouette, created with the new BlondMe Crystal Transparent Gel Bleach System, resulting in a crisp, neutral Nordic blonde. Neo Culture is dark and the trend is exemplified with an androgynous undercut and inky hints of blue and purple. Oriental Express captures a hypnotic feel through punchy brights like intense plum-red and accented pink.

WHO: L.A.-based SKP artist Tyler Colton and Toronto-based artist Paul Pereira introduced the hair styles and gave advice on how to make the styles salon-friendly for everyday clients.

WHEN & WHERE: September 20 at the ASK Academy in Toronto PHOTOS: MELISSA HILL

Hair To Help Raises $17,000!

WHAT: The third annual Hair to Help event saw 12 top-notch salons open their doors for a full-day cut-a-thon. Stunning cuts, gorgeous colours and luxe salon services were offered by donation, with all proceeds going to Friends for Life, a non-profit for Vancouverites with lifethreatening illnesses. Stylists later packed into Ginger 62 nightclub to celebrate the day, which raised more than $17,000 for charity!

WHO: Participating salons included Sukiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, Supernova, Union, Hype, Black 2 Blond, Zazou, Air Hair Salon, Zone Hair Gallery, Salon 5 Seventy, TRiM Hair Salon and Markus J Hair.

WHY: Friends for Life is a non-profit wellness centre which provides physical and emotional support for people with life-threatening illnesses. It offers group and social support, body and energy work, counselling, naturopathic and Chinese medicine and wellness workshops.

WHEN & WHERE: September 16 in Vancouver PHOTOS: GREG ROBINS

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Cosmoprof Opens Premiere LearningCentre WHAT: Cosmoprof held a grand-opening event and exclusive preview for its first-ever LearningCentre. To celebrate, the centre also hosted exciting free demos all week long and provided swag bags full of hair-care goodies from ABBA, American Crew, Belvedere, Dannyco, Deva Curl, Farouk, Foil It, Hempz, Kenra, Matrix, P&G Professional, Product Club, Rusk, Sorme and Venique.

Upcoming classes will feature industry stars like Martin Parsons, Paul Wilke, Julio Rodriguez, Don Wyatt and Jim Roberts.

Call 1-888-241-3330, ext. 2289 or 905-602-8153 for more information.

WHO: John Costanza, Group Vice-President of Sally Beauty Holdings Canada, addressed the industry crowd, explaining how this state-of-the-art venue will offer hands-on classes, demonstrations and business presentations in a salon-like atmosphere.

SOUNDBITE: â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Cosmoprof LearningCentre will bring advanced-level education to stylists at all levels of their career. Our vendor partners have risen to the challenge and have partnered with us to bring exclusive programs lead by guest artists who, arguably, are regarded as the best in our industry. Education is the foundation of our industry, and the LearningCentre is a step forward in ensuring a strong future for stylists,â&#x20AC;? says Costanza.

WHEN & WHERE: September 6 in Mississauga, Ont. PHOTOS: LAURA DUNPHY, JADE BATEMAN

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EVENTS

Big Names Hit the West Coast WHAT: West Coast Beauty presented a blockbuster show, Hair Menage Ă&#x20AC; Trois, with hundreds of top salons from across British Columbia packed into the show at the Delta Burnaby Hotel & Grand Villa Casino and stayed for classes on the following Monday.

WHO: Stage talent featured David Glover for Kevin.Murphy, Damien Carney and Sue Pemberton for Jocio and Angelo Seminara and Edoardo Paludo for Davines.

WHEN & WHERE: September 30 in Burnaby, B.C. PHOTOS: GREG ROBINS

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NOVEMBER/DECEMBER 2012 ISSE MIDWEST SHOW November 4 – 5 Donald E. Stephens Convention Center Rosemont, Ill. Info: probeauty.org/issemw/event-details/ HAIRAPALOOZA CALGARY November 4 The Exchange Social Club Calgary Info: 403-259-4442 SALON CENTRE INNOVATE 2012 November 4 Prairieland Park Saskatoon, Sask.

Info: saloncentre.ca SALON MAGAZINE'S CONTESSA AWARDS November 11 Sheraton Centre Toronto Info: salonmagazine.ca

HAIR CLASSES AVEDA EDuCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892

salonmagazine.ca

CHI EDuCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 888.251.8466 GLOBAL BEST BEAuTY EDuCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 866.468.2205 or 416.636.1988 GOLDWELL EDuCATIONAL PROGRAMS Including Trend Zoom seminars Info: 877.670.6767 GREAT LENGTHS EDuCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: greatlengthscanada.com KMS EDuCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 877.670.6767 L’ORéAL PROfESSIONNEL EDuCATIONAL PROGRAMS Classes include Absolute LP, Colour on Colour, Essential Texture and the H3 Academy Info: 800.361.1861 MATRIx EDuCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 888.422.6879 REDKEN EDuCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 866.9.REDKEN

SKP EDuCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 905.625.7200 or contact your local Schwarzkopf distributor TIGI EDuCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.259.8596 uRBAN BEAuTY SYSTEMS Educational programs for Euronatural Hair Extensions; in-salon classes available Info: 866.731.4327

NAIL AND ESTHETICS CLASSES AVEDA EDuCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892 CND EDuCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: contact your local CND distributor LCN EDuCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: lcn.ca or call 800.557.3223 for full listings STAR NAIL EDuCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.661.9997 S

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SALON MAGAZINE English edition, USPS 015-615 is published monthly, except for February, June, August and December

by SALON COMMUNICATIONS INC. 365 Bloor Street East, Suite 1902, Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3L4, Canada. US office of publication: 2221 Niagara Falls Blvd, Niagara Falls, NY 14304-5709. Periodicals Postage Paid at Niagara Falls, NY, US postmaster: Send address changes to Salon Magazine, PO Box 1068, Niagara Falls, NY 14304. ISSN 1489-7059 Volume 21 Issue 15 salonmagazine.ca

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last look

Ringing up Retail Party season’s begun. Are you ready?

The season to shop is a big one: many retailers depend on the last two months of the year for up to 40 per cent of their annual sales. youTold Us...

Favourite Party styles for Clients!

646 15hrs 10 x 2 $

The amount the average shopper planned to spend on gifts in 2011.

The amount of time the average person will spend attending holiday parties, gatherings and events. (Think about all those hairstyles!)

The average woman will spend twice as much time shopping for gifts—about 20 hours—than the average man, who spends 10 hours.

Holiday Hair Horrors

“A faux-bob with finger waves in the front.”

— Michelle Pargee, Langley, B.C. “A loose finger wave on the top, turning into a soft braid, completed into a soft flower braid to create an elegant look.”

— Natalia Holowasz-Morlacchetti, Bracebridge, Ont.

According to Allure and stylist Nathaniel Hawkins, these are some of the top no-nos for party-ready tresses. Agree or disagree?

• Accessory overload. Don’t outshine the Christmas tree.

• Hair claws. Anything used for a workout shouldn’t be a part of party style.

• Teased styles that add two inches or more to a client’s height.

• Tight ringlets that dangle from an updo.

“‘50s party!!!!”

— Sonia Provost, Ottawa

• A too-basic pony. Go for bouncy and glossy with hot rollers.

Via Facebook.com/SalonMag

Holiday retail sales are expected to rise 4.1 per cent in 2012, according to annual projections from the National Retail Federation. That’s less than

‘‘

the growth of the past two years, but well above 2009, when sales were up 0.3 per cent.

I love giving gifts and I love receiving them. I really like giving little kids extravagant gifts. You see their little faces light up, and they get excited.

If it's a really good gift, I love receiving it, like jewels or small islands.”

—Gina Gershon

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photos: thinkstock, crestock, sources: AmericAnreseArchGroup.com, consumerreports.orG, BrAinyQuote.com, Allure.com, sAlon.com

“Big huge voluminous blow-outs or mermaid waves pinned up loosely with sparkly combs.”

— Tanya Lazazzera, Montreal

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