Salon Magazine, June 2021 by Salon Communications Inc.

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 8799 365 Evans Avenue, Suite L10, Toronto, Ont., M8Z 1K2

PROMOT I NG DI V E R S I T Y I N T H E BE AU T Y I N DUST RY T R A NSFOR M I NG TEXTURE: TIPS F OR C U T T I NG , C OL OU R I NG A N D ST Y L I NG CU R LS

The Beauty of Texture JUNE 2021

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June 2021 26 F E AT U R E

Tackling Thinning Hair Concerns

38 YING-SUN LI, J E S S I CA Q U I N L A N , PA I G E J O H N S T O N & O L I V I A O U DY, M A S C I H A I R A N D S PA , AU S T R A L I A

With more clients experiencing thinning hair, here are some expertapproved tips for addressing these concerns while behind the chair.

29 F E AT U R E

Confident Curls

Diversify your skill set with tips, tricks and techniques for working with curly and coily hair textures.

35 F E AT U R E

Inner Strength

Behind the scenes of our cover shoot with Kérastase’s Canadian editorial director, David D’Amours.

“We’re in an industry that thrives off of continued education, and it should include every hair type and not just the ones you’re most familiar with.”

36 I N S P I R AT I O N

Collections

David D’Amours; Ying-Sun Li, Paige Johnston & Olivia Oudy; Michelle Pargee; Johanna Libbey; Teri Lowe; Bill Tsiknaris; Anne Veck

52 C O N T E S S A GA L L E RY

Janet Jackson

Discover how this Torontobased hairstylist got her start in the industry and why making space for other Black female artists is so close to her heart.

— PAULA WHITELOCKE, OWNER OF CURLY HAIR DESIGNS, OTTAWA ON THE COVER: HAIR: DAVID D’AMOURS, PRIVÉ PAR DAVID D’AMOURS, MONTREAL, HAIR ASSISTANT: STÉPHANIE NIQUET, MAKEUP: NISHA GULATI, WARDROBE STYLING: EMMANUELLE ROCHON, PHOTO: ROYAL GILBERT, POST-PRODUCTION: VALÉRIE LALIBERTÉ salonmagazine.ca / June 2021 9

Editor’s Letter

Publisher’s Note

P RO F I L E

Leading By Example

16 L E T ’ S G E T D I G I TA L

SalonMagazine.ca

Looking for more? Check out our website for expanded stories, additional collection photos, how-tos and tons of hair and beauty inspiration.

46 BILL TSIKNARIS, TSIKNARIS H A IR , BR ISBA N E , AU S T R A L I A

Michelle O’Connor has truly made a name for herself in hairstyling. Find out more about her award-winning work, her role as Matrix’s global artistic director and how she’s promoting change in the industry.

INTER IORS

Bottle Service

W H AT ’ S N E W

Hairlines

Take a peek inside Onyx & Ivory, a Calgary-based salon serving up trendy styles and fresh colour in a welcoming and inviting space—complete with refreshing beverages.

Get summer-ready with brand-new haircare, styling and colour launches for every hair type and texture. Plus, we’re highlighting trendy nail inspo to complete your looks this season!

64 W H AT ’ S H A P P E N I N G

Events + Scoop

66 SA LON SOCI A L

Listening and Learning

55 BUSINESS

Finding Your Voice

Learn how two salon owners are using their platforms to promote diversity, inclusion and change in the professional beauty space, and how you can do your part, too.

48 ANNE VECK, ANNE VECK OX F O R D , U . K .

10 salonmagazine.ca / June 2021

Two Canadian-based diversity and inclusion consulting firms share their tips on ways salons can help make progress in the beauty industry.

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Editor’s Letter —

SEE STUNNING COLLECTIONS BU I L D A R E WA R DI NG CA R E E R GE T TH E L AT E S T I N DU S T RY NE WS F I N D TH E TE C H N ICA L A DV IC E YOU CR AV E

salonmagazine.ca

Taking the High Road Being both a woman and a person of colour, working in the beauty industry comes with a unique set of challenges. While experiences can vary, it’s safe to say that at one point or another, many people with similar identities have felt pressure to work harder in order to prove themselves and be seen, heard and— to put it plainly—taken seriously. With that said, everything gets put into perspective when you reach a certain level in your career. Whether by learning a new skill set or achieving personal and professional goals, your mindset seems to shift, focusing more on setting an example while making space for others. Last year, when we decided to put together our “Texture” issue, I initially felt hesitation about it. I knew that it was a topic we wanted (and needed) to talk about, but my apprehension was with it being brought to the forefront within a single issue—especially as there continues to be a divide in the beauty industry. What helped ease those uncertainties was the realization that shining a light on the topic wasn’t about separating it from our other issues; instead, it was about highlighting an area of the industry that deserves it. Since joining the Salon team, a huge goal of mine has been for us to do more for the BIPOC community. While we still have work to do, I’m more certain than ever that we’ll get there—even if it includes a stumble or two along the way. Using our platforms to amplify and support all voices in our community (while learning and growing from our own experiences) is vital for creating a more welcoming, inclusive and diverse future.

SalonMag Salon_Magazine salonmagazine

Veronica Boodhan Editor-in-Chief

SalonMagazine

12 salonmagazine.ca / June 2021 AD_salonmagazineDOTca.halfV_1-1.indd 1

2020-12-10 4:47 PM

PHOTOGRAPH BY DOUG MCMILLAN, HAIR AND MAKEUP BY DIANA CARREIRO

DISCOVER MORE– RIGHT AT YOUR FINGERTIPS

# MYBELIEF

BEAUTY STARTS FROM WITHIN Authentic beauty begins the very moment you decide to be yourself. When you’re present in the now that’s when you rebalance your mind and soul. Look within and bring out your inner beauty to truly express yourself.

ALIANA KING Model & Artist

Join the

# AUTHENTICBEAUTYMOVEMENT @ a u t h e n ti c b e a u t yc o n c e p t .c a

Salon Magazine ISSN 1197-1495, VOLUME 30, ISSUE 5 SALONMAGAZINE.CA

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Veronica Boodhan veronica@salonmagazine.ca

Publisher’s Note —

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR Stephanie MacDonald Gallant stephanie@salonmagazine.ca ASSISTANT EDITOR Sami Chazonoff sami@salonmagazine.ca SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR Shanice Romelus shanice@salonmagazine.ca CONTRIBUTORS Liz Bruckner

GROUP PUBLISHER Laura Dunphy laura@salonmagazine.ca SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE Jordan Miandro jordan@salonmagazine.ca PRODUCTION MANAGER Alan Swinton production@salonmagazine.ca

Aspire to Inspire

OFFICE MANAGER Cathy Donaghy cathy@salonmagazine.ca

To become a master at something, you must repeatedly work at your craft. Whether it’s a precision haircut or an exquisite updo, you likely won’t “get it” on the first goaround, so you’ll need to hone your skills as you put in the time to practice. As with every area of hairstyling, working with textured hair is a skill set that requires a commitment to diversifying your abilities, especially since there are so many variations of hair. We’re continuing to see more stylists work towards becoming texture specialists, which is amazing both for the industry and for clients, as it can be so encouraging to find a hairstylist who excels in this area. Putting in the time to master textured hair can also help build loyalty, and I encourage you to embrace this mindset of choosing to undergo continual growth, especially since there is more education available now than ever before. I’ve always believed that the desire to learn and perfect new, fundamental techniques of hairdressing is a goal that’s worth aspiring to as it’s what separates the great from the average. Learning different approaches can be both challenging and fun, and may even inspire you to fall in love with hairdressing all over again! And let’s face it: With the extra time you might have right now, there’s no excuse for not pushing your creative and education limits! As many of you may know, this is also Contessa entry time. Some of you may be understandably debating whether this is the right time to enter or shoot. To that we say: This may be just the tonic you need to support your professional passion and motivation! Just to let you know, we’ve spoken with a number of photographers who are available to work in many creative ways. As a reminder, we’ve modified our entry rules to make participating easier than ever. Whether you’re considering updating work from past years or are inspired to do a new photo shoot, this may be the year that you add fresh energy to your body of work. The bottom line: No matter which area of the industry you decide to set your focus on, honing your craft and refining your skills will always serve you well. Develop a passion for learning and keep this mindset throughout your career. In doing so, you’ll ensure that you never cease to grow.

CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Tom Arkell tom@salonmagazine.ca

14 salonmagazine.ca / June 2021

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PHOTOGRAPH BY ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP BY DIANACARREIRO

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The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail helpdesk@ subscriptions.salon. Our privacy officer is Adrian Holland. This project has been made possible [in part] by the Government of Canada.

We help you narrow the search.

PRODUC T GUIDE

spg. salonmagazine.c a Search by product category or keyword. Also, find a comprehensive list of Canadian manufacturers and distributors.

Enter Now! Contessa season has officially begun—get ready to show us what you’ve got! Learn more about our new rule changes, along with tips and tricks to help you craft a winning collection.

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Hair How-Tos

Are you keeping your clients on trend this summer? We have how-to tutorials for creating the coolest looks of the season.

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16 salonmagazine.ca / June 2021

Dream Team Whether you’re in search of new team members or looking for a new job, we have you covered! Browse our job board or post a free listing today.

In Conversation With Find out how Contessa award-winning hairstylist Silas Tsang and British Hairdresser of the Year Sally Brooks have been utilizing their time during the lockdowns to refine their craft and take their creative work to the next level.

PHOTOS: COLOUR: STEVIE ENGLISH, STEVIE ENGLISH HAIR, AUSTRALIA, HAIR: KOBI BOKSHISH, MAKEUP: PABLO MORGADE, WARDROBE STYLING: JOSIE MCMANUS, PHOTO: DAVID MANNAH; GETTY STOCK; HAIR: SAM VILLA; HAIR ASSISTANT: SAYMARA CORREA, MAKEUP: YEIKOV, WARDROBE STYLING: ARISTEO TENGCO, PHOTO: ALEXEI AFONIN; SILAS TSANG; RUTH HUNSLEY

Looking for some motivation for your next creative shoot? Dive into our collection archive at SalonMagazine.ca, featuring curated collections from around the world.

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salonmagazine.c

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Get Inspired

PHOTOS: HAIR: JOEY SCANDIZZO, ELEVEN AUSTRALIA; MAKEUP: KYLIE O'TOOLE, WARDROBE STYLING: KATE GASKIN, PHOTO: ANDREW O'TOOLE

To see the full collection, visit SalonMagazine.ca.

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ENHANCE YOUR ROUTINE WITH NEW CARE, COLOUR AND STYLING LAUNCHES FOR ALL HAIR TYPES AND TEXTURES.

A celebration of freedom and connection, the [PEOPLE] campaign by ELEVEN Australia co-creative directors, hairstylist Joey Scandizzo and photographer Andrew O’Toole, was created to spread happiness and hope in light of what the world has been going through for the past year. The collection is inspired by colour, music and movement, and is all about “letting your hair down” while featuring bold, vibrant and playful tones on a variety of hair textures and styles. salonmagazine.ca / June 2021 17

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Play and Slay

Hairlines — NEWS

Help your clients make the most of the summer season with Oligo Professionnel’s Calura Gloss limited-edition shades.

➣ IT’ S THE BA LM!

Give your clients’ colour a boost with Biolage’s ColorBalm. This range of six vibrant, easy-to-apply colour-depositing conditioners are designed to help refresh, intensify and condition any shade. Biolage’s ColorBalm works to transform hair in just five minutes, allowing your clients to quickly and easily explore their colour options without commitment or damage. Plus, it’s free of parabens and mineral oils! This vegan line works on all textures and comes in a range of bold, wearable and intermixable shades (Red Poppy, Saffron Red, Chai Tea, Cinnamon, Earl Grey and Lavender)—some of which can even work on darker tones, so your brunette and redhead clients can join in on the fun!

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Summer Saviour Creating long-lasting styles just got easier with Série Expert Blow-Dry Fluidifier from L’Oréal Professionnel. Are your clients looking to achieve and maintain blowouts throughout the humid months ahead? L’Oréal Professionnel’s Série Expert Blow-Dry Fluidifier may just be the solution they’re looking for. Enriched with vegetal proteins and thermo-reactive wax, its unique formula provides four days of shape memory, 96 hours of anti-frizz protection and up to 450°F of heat protection. 18 salonmagazine.ca / June 2021

PHOTOS: OLIGO PROFESSIONNEL, BIOLAGE, L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, KAO, KÉRASTASE

Oligo Professionnel has launched two new Calura Gloss seasonal shades just in time for the warmer weather! Framboise (raspberry) is a range of three vibrant pink-red shades and Corail (coral) consists of three red-orange tones—both for levels seven, eight and nine. The limited-edition shades were inspired by the spring/summer shows at New York Fashion Week and created in collaboration with the brand’s digital creative director, J Ladner. Available now until August, the demi-permanent shades are sure to help your clients experiment with colour and add a playful edge to their looks.

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Next-Level Colour

Creative Escape It’s almost time to enter Kao’s Global Creative Awards. Kao’s annual Global Creative Awards are here! Now accepting entries from all Goldwell, KMS and Oribe stylists and salons, the competition is sure to be fierce. While the Creative Colourist and Creative Haircutting live competition categories have been postponed until 2022, the New Talent Colorist of the Year category will only be photo-based and is specifically for stylists with less than five years of industry experience. Although there will be fewer technical categories this year, there are several new editorial categories, including Men’s Hairstylist, Salon Team, Avant Garde Stylist and Editorial Colorist. Entries open on July 1st and close on July 15th. The competition’s national winners will be announced in August. For more details and to enter, visit globalcreativeawards.com.

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Specifically formulated with your client’s hair, scalp and skin needs in mind, Schwarzkopf Professional’s Color Essentials line lives up to its name with a range of products that will help you achieve an optimal colour service in three easy steps. Featuring two of the brand’s signature products—Bond Enforcing Color Remover and IGORA Expert Kit products—the new lineup also includes brand-new products and cohesive packaging. The Bond Enforcing Color Remover is to be used before the colour service, followed by Skin Protect during the colouring process, and Hair Sealer and Stain Remover once the service is finished. The brand’s integrated Fibre Bond Technology and protective ingredients help strengthen hair while shielding it from further damage, and will help transform your services from start to finish.

Hairlines — NEWS

Master your colour services with Schwarzkopf Professional’s new Color Essentials.

Curl Up Looking to give your curly clients the ultimate care and styling experience? Meet Kérastase’s new Curl Manifesto. It’s time to give your clients with curls some extra TLC. Curl Manifesto is a new eight-piece range from Kérastase that’s created specifically for all curl patterns, including wavy to curly (Type 2), very curly (Type 3) and coily (Type 4) hair. As curls are more susceptible to dryness and fragility, the range is formulated with manuka honey to hydrate, ceramide to protect from environmental stressors and glycerin to prevent breakage and frizz. With more women choosing to rock their natural texture, this line will hydrate, strengthen and define curls as well as add shine. This luxurious high-performance line also includes an exclusive in-salon nourishing treatment as well as products that further cleanse, treat, texturize and refresh locks. Plus, the line features a warm fragrance and sleek nude packaging that’s sure to inspire your curly-haired clients to embrace, care for and style their beautiful, natural texture.

salonmagazine.ca / June 2021 19

➣ N OW R E I N T RO D U C I N G …

Hairlines — NEWS

Design.ME’s Quickie.ME Dry Shampoo collection and Fab.ME 18-in-1 Multi Benefit Leave-In Treatment.

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Are your clients looking to refresh day-old hair? Design.ME’s three-piece line of Quickie.ME dry shampoos includes two oil-absorbing sprays—one for brunette and dark tones and another for blonde and pastel tones—that absorb, lift and refresh hair. Plus, there’s a foam option for all hair types that cleanses, detoxes and refreshes. With a scent formulated from a blend of herbs and blackcurrant syrup with a hint of lychee, your clients’ hair will feel, look and smell like they just left the salon. An added bonus: The packaging has received a facelift and now features a light blue shade and bright aqua blue. And that’s not all! The brand has also relaunched Fab.ME, an 18-in-1 Multi Benefit Leave-In Treatment featuring a brand-new look and scent (hello, waterlily, peach and orange!) while maintaining its same beloved benefits, including porosity control, heat and UV protection, frizz control, hydration and more!

M O R E T O L OV E

Give your clients a hair rescue with Guardians of Glam, Joico’s restaged styling line, featuring three new hero products.

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With the 33rd annual Contessa Awards approaching, we can’t wait to see all your amazing work this year! Since arranging photo shoots and hiring models may not be as easy due to the pandemic’s restrictions and lockdowns, we wanted to help you still create the collection of your dreams. In case you missed it: We’re allowing the use of mannequin heads in all Contessa categories! To get you set up for success, we spoke with award-winning hairstylists and experts for their tips on using mannequin heads for creating collections. For more Contessa tips and tricks, visit SalonMagazine.ca

➣ In the spirit of change and improvement, Joico is announcing that all of its haircare lines and products are 100 per cent crueltyfree. The brand is now certified by PETA as “Animal Test-Free” and “PETA-approved,” which means the brand has been verified for not conducting, financing or allowing any tests on animals for any of its products, ingredients or formulas!

20 salonmagazine.ca / June 2021

3 Tips for Working with Mannequin Heads for Photo Shoots

Choosing Your Mannequin “It’s important to choose the right mannequin that has a beautiful and well-proportioned face. Although your mannequin is not a real person, it’s important to consider the proportions.” — Sylvestre Finold, 2020 BHA winner, Avant Garde Hairdresser of the Year Perfect Placement “I always wanted to do a shoot with these beautiful swan neck mannequins. Working with them meant really thinking about the placement and the amount of hair I needed to use. They were also all looking in the same direction, so I had to chop off some of their heads to reposition them.” — Sally Brooks, 2020 BHA winner, British Hairdresser of the Year Get Creative “Anything you can do on a live model you can do on a mannequin. Generally it’s easier, because you can work on a cut over a period of days and it will not grow or change. I was able to get creative with hair tattoos and styling.” — Mike Taylor, master barber and founder of the British Barbers Association

PHOTOS: JOICO, DESIGN.ME HAIR, GHD, #MYDENTITY, DAVINES

Joico has revamped their styling line to give their signature products a brand-new look! In addition to colour-coded packaging and newand-improved formulas enriched with Moringa seed oil, the line’s products now include increased environmental protection against pollution, humidity and UV damage. The Guardians of Glam revamped line is also accompanied by three new hero products: Rise Up Powder Spray will be your go-to for volumizing clients’ limp locks by adding texture and volume. The Heat Hero Glossing Thermal Protector provides a healthy gloss and shine while protecting strands from heat, and the Humidity Blocker+ Protective Finishing Spray will help you give clients a frizz- and static-free shine while protecting hair from the humid weather.

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“It’s great for long hair, as well as thick- and curly-haired clients. With its 30-second heat-up time and two-inch-wide ceramic plates, it allows me to save so much time on my styling. The optimal temperature of 365°F helps me create styles without damage. Plus, for people who love to travel like me, it has universal voltage!” — Brigitte Castonguay, ghd educator, Montreal

Looking to easily transition your clients to a new tone while preserving hair’s integrity? Learn how #mydentity’s #Striptease Direct Dye Remover will help do the trick.

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Contains dual zone technology for consistent heat for smoother, sleeker results

Rinse and Repeat

If you have clients who frequently change up their colour, you’ll love this fast-acting direct dye remover that gets rid of unwanted pigments in just five minutes. The remover comes in a neutral white shade (as opposed to brown, blue or purple) so it can be easily identified on the hair and will effortlessly transition your client’s colour from one tone to another. Containing a blend of moisturizing agents to add shine and moisture to processed hair, and formulated with persulfates (a gentler alternative to ammonia), the #Striptease Direct Dye Remover is sure to provide a fresh, odour-free canvas in no time.

Hairlines — NEWS

TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX TOOLBOX

ghd Max Styler

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Heats up in just 30 seconds

Reaches optimum styling temperature of 365°F to prevent extreme heat damage

30-minute auto-shutoff to avoid overheating

R A ISING THE BA R

Introduce your eco-conscious clients to Davines’ new line of Shampoo Bars. To further their commitment to the planet, Davines has launched four plastic-free Shampoo Bars that contain no silicones, sulfates or preservatives, and provide up to 60 per cent more washes when compared to their liquid counterparts. The packaging is made with 100 per cent FSC-certified, sustainably sourced recyclable paper and the CO2 generated in creating them is offset by EthioTrees, a carbon offset project. Whether your clients are looking to delicately cleanse (DEDE), moisturize (MOMO), add elasticity (LOVE) or volume and body (VOLU), or are simply looking for an eco-friendlier shampoo alternative, Davines Shampoo Bars are the solution.

salonmagazine.ca / June 2021 21

➣ Hairlines — NEWS

Fruitful Protection Add a fresh burst to your clients’ colour care routine with Puremix from Rusk. As temperatures rise, it’s likely that more clients will want to experiment with their hair. Help them protect and prolong their colour with Rusk’s Puremix line of Fresh Pomegranate Color Protecting products. Rusk’s Puremix range consists of a Color Protecting Shampoo, Conditioner and Hairspray, all enriched with pomegranate, an antioxidant containing rich tannins that form a bond between colour pigments and the hair fibre to help colour last while simultaneously strengthening strands. The shampoo and conditioner, which contain no sulfates, parabens, silicones or gluten, nourish locks while keeping colour vibrant for up to 30 washes. The hairspray finishes styles with a frizz-free, UV-protected formula to keep them looking fresh and protected.

Clean Update

S TAT E M E N T S H A D E S

Give your clients more options with 14 new additions to Keune’s Semi Color range. The brand’s Semi Color portfolio now includes a total of 75 ammonia-free, intermixable demi-permanent shades. The 14 new statement colours include Fashion Colors (8.22, 7.32, 5.81 and 3.1), Ultimate Blonde Glazes (Honey, Champagne and Beige), Ultimate Blonde Toners (10.17, 9.35, 9.5 and 9.71) and Mix Colors (0/19, 0/34 and 0/56). The line’s creamy base offers easy application and is formulated with deep conditioning and shine agents, including Mirasil infused with Keune’s new Shine Complex (Sea Buckthorn extract) and Cocamide infused with the brand’s Nourishing Complex (Sea Silk). Whether it’s for grey blending, corrective services or your client’s first foray into pastel tones, the Semi Color range is a versatile and customizable line that will leave hair soft and smooth, with colour that lasts for up to 24 washes. The cherry on top? A new colour ribbon has been added to the boxes for easy navigation, so it’ll be faster than ever to choose any (or all) of these new wearable shades this season.

22 salonmagazine.ca / June 2021

Pravana has always been a proud cruelty-free professional haircare and colour company, but they wanted to take their commitment to animals one step further. The brand recently announced that it’s officially animal test-free, which by PETA’s standards means that they do not conduct, commission, pay for or allow any tests on animals for their ingredients, formulations or finished products. Pravana has also joined PETA’s Beauty without Bunnies program, an online database created to help shoppers easily locate brands and products that don’t test on animals.

PHOTOS: RUSK, PRAVANA, KEUNE, GELISH, CND, ORLY, OPI, LCN, INSTAGRAM

Pravana is now certified animal test-free!

PU R PLE R A I N

CND Rooftop Hop from the Summer City Chic collection is a warm, vibrant violet tone that will get your clients noticed all season long.

Hairlines — NAILS

Gelish Sparkle this summer with All Day, All Night, a dreamy magenta pearl from the Feel The Vibes collection.

CELEB NA IL LOOKS

ORLY Kaleidoscope Eyes from the Electric Escape collection is a bright lilac crème that’ll have your clients embracing both their playful and sophisticated sides.

Award-Winning Nails Swoon over these nail looks from celebrities who slayed the red carpet at the 2021 Oscars. LCN Turn heads this summer with Trust Me, a pale lavender crème from the Shine collection.

OPI Make some noise this season with The Sound of Vibrance, a bold shimmery purple from the Malibu collection.

1 Singer Andra Day brought the glitz and glam—flaunting her elevated (and extra-long) geometic v-shape French manicure with gold details. 2 British actress Carey Mulligan caught everyone’s attention with her nude nails featuring minimal gold detailing around the cuticles. 3 Halle Berry showed off a trendy new ’do, but we couldn’t help notice her chic shattered nude and white almond-shaped nails.

4 Singer-songwriter H.E.R. recently took home an Academy Award, but it’s her shiny purple nails that are a total win in our books. 5 Although she was sporting a new hairdo (fresh bangs!), Margot Robbie kept it simple with a classic, understated French manicure. 6 Actress and director Regina King always delivers on- and off-screen, and her sleek and shiny mani was no exception.

7 Singer-songwriter Tiara Thomas slayed the fashion game in her all-white look, but it was her asymmetrical nude and white nails that caught our attention. 8 Best Actress nominee Vanessa Kirby perfectly paired her stunning gown and deep red lip with a shiny burgundy manicure. 9 Oscar-nominated actress Maria Bakalova dazzled with elegant and playful silver glitter French tips and cuticle art on a sheer nude base.

salonmagazine.ca / June 2021 23

Hairlines — MEN

➣ GET EXPERT TIPS FOR WORKING WITH DIFFERENT HAIR TYPES AND LEARN HOW TO ENCOURAGE YOUR MALE CLIENTS TO EMBRACE THEIR NATURAL TEXTURE WITH CONFIDENCE.

Unlike women who often arrive at the salon with inspirational hair photos ready, and research about their preferred look, most men have the opposite approach. Whether they’re allowing their barber to take the lead, telling their stylist to “cut it short” or want to recreate the style they’ve grown accustomed to, some men haven’t had the chance to truly see their hair’s full potential—until now. “Being in lockdown gave men the opportunity to grow out their hair and see what they look like with longer styles,” says Demo Pedulla, a North American ambassador for Reuzel and owner of Bloke & Burd in Dorval, Que. “The next time they’re in your chair, take the opportunity to encourage them not to ruin what they’ve created. Try something like ‘Your hair is at this length, so let’s work with this and see your natural texture.’” Words of Encouragement While listening to your clients’ requests is an important part of being a good barber or hairstylist, you also shouldn’t be afraid to suggest new things. “I’m all about encouraging my clients,” says Matula Liounis, an all-star educator for American Crew and stylist at Chez Cheveux in London, Ont. “Ultimately I’m going to do what they want, but a lot of my clients take my advice. My main goal is to make men look good, feel good and stand out. A lot of guys have no idea that they have this beautiful natural texture underneath the short haircut they always wear, and it’s my job to help them embrace and enhance it.” As a barber, Pedulla says he feels that it’s part of his job to help his clients to step out of their comfort zone. “When a client sits in my chair and I just ask him what he wants to do and what he likes, 24 salonmagazine.ca / June 2021

it doesn’t really make me the professional; it just makes me someone who follows instructions really well,” he says. “When my client tells me something about his hair that gives him difficulty, I try to focus on that and give him options for solving the issue.” Growing Pains According to Pedulla, when a shorter haircut grows out, it can end up looking awkward on a lot of men. “It can be really top-heavy and have a lot of weight in the wrong places,” he says. “You need to start explaining to your clients that different elements like textured layers, slicing and point-cutting will give them the weight where they need it and volume where they want it, while removing some of the bulk. You can show them that with a bit of finetuning, they can have a great [longer] hairstyle that gives them everything they want while leveraging their natural texture.” “I always say that when working with the natural movement of someone’s hair, it’s actually easier for them to style when it has a bit more length than when it’s cut short,” Pedulla adds. “In a way, working from home has been great for exploring different hair options and experimenting with a more relaxed look.”

PRO TIP PEDULLA SAYS WHEN DRYING YOUR MALE CLIENTS’ HAIR, USING A BLOW DRYER THAT GIVES A MAXIMUM AMOUNT OF SPEED WITH MEDIUM HEAT IS IDEAL. ANYTHING TOO HOT ON MEN’S HAIR (WHEN YOU’RE TRYING TO STYLE IT NATURALLY) CAN OVERDRY IT.

TEXT: SAMI CHAZONOFF; PHOTO: JACKIE NOBLE; HAIRDRYER BY TIENAN FROM THE NOUN PROJECT, COLD BY ADRIEN COQUET FROM THE NOUN PROJECT, HAIR BY DANIELA BAPTISTA FROM THE NOUN PROJECT, PAINT BY DEWI TRESNASIH FROM THE NOUN PROJECT; AMERICAN CREW, REUZEL

Keeping It Real

“TOOLS ARE EXTREMELY IMPORTANT. IT’S LIKE A CHEF WITH GREAT KNIVES—WHETHER YOU’RE USING SCISSORS OR FEATHERING BLADES, QUALITY IS IMPORTANT. WHEN IT COMES TO ADDING TEXTURE, YOU WANT A BLADE THAT’S GOING TO SLICE WITHOUT PULLING OR BREAKING THE HAIR.” — DEMO PEDULLA, REUZEL AMBASSADOR AND OWNER OF BLOKE AND BURD, DORVAL, QUE.

PRODUCT PICKS

American Crew TechSeries Boost Spray This styling prep spray enhances waves and natural texture by adding volume to your male clients’ looks.

Reuzel Grooming Tonic A liquid formula that helps coat the hair and acts like a primer, with a natural memory hold that takes to whatever shape you want it to.

Keep in Mind Although encouraging your male clients to enhance their natural texture and grow out their hair may result in fewer visits to the salon, it’s not necessarily a bad thing.

“I like to offer ‘tune ups’ to my male clients, where they come back to the salon two weeks after their haircut so we can revisit the textured area I cut into. It just takes five minutes and it helps maintain their texture. And if you help them maintain it, they’ll keep the look for longer and keep coming back to you. I personally don’t charge for this because my price is already a bit higher than the average barber, so the service is essentially built in but the clients always tip anyway. Another way to increase the client ticket, even if they’re coming to the salon less often, is to recommend more products. When they have longer hair, they need more products. By the end of the year, it should all balance out.” — Matula Liounis, American Crew all-star educator and stylist, Chez Cheveux, London, Ont.

“When it comes to the consultation, ask questions like, ‘How do you like to wear your hair? What are some things you like/dislike about your hair?’ Get a good understanding of your client, find out what their problem areas are and how you can fix them. When you start giving guys a plan, you give them a little more headway of where you’re going and you’re creating a client for life. They will stick with you until you get where you need to go (and beyond).” — Demo Pedulla, Reuzel ambassador and owner of Bloke and Burd, Dorval, Que.

PRO TIP LIOUNIS SUGGESTS TEXTURIZING HAIR MORE IF IT LOOKS OR FEELS TOO BULKY IN CERTAIN AREAS. SHE SAYS THAT SINCE MEN TYPICALLY HAVE LESS OF THEIR FACE/HEAD COVERED BY HAIR, DETAILING—ESPECIALLY AROUND THE NECKLINE AND EARS—IS VERY IMPORTANT BECAUSE IT STANDS OUT MORE.

Waves and Curls While some clients with shorter or finer hair are looking to add more volume or texture to their locks, some will already have naturally textured hair, such as thick waves. “A lot of male clients with texture-rich wavy hair tell me they like their waves, but they don’t know what to do with them,” says Liounis. “I always educate them and give them the proper haircut that will enhance their natural style. For these looks, a feather razor is my tool of choice. I always target the way I want the hair to fall, and recommend products to these clients so they can maintain their new look.” While curls aren’t as easily managed as their wavy counterparts, Pedulla says there are numerous tips for controlling them. “Some clients tell me their hair is too curly and their curls get out of control when their hair grows out,” he says. “My first offer is to relax the hair—not to remove the curls but just to loosen them [with a smoothing service] so they can get more controlled.” Tighter Texture When working with Type 4 or coily, textured hair, Liounis likes to use clippers and a wide-tooth comb that can easily get through it. “Afro hair is all about shape; it’s very visual,” she says. “When working with very coarse or Black hair, it’s important to use products with a lot of moisture that will enhance the client’s natural texture and control frizz. I always pay close attention to the curl pattern both at and away from the scalp, as clients with this hair type need a lot of moisture and care.” salonmagazine.ca / June 2021 25

Dive into these cut, colour, styling and product solutions to help address this top-of-mind subject with clients. BY SAMI CHAZONOFF

While thinning hair is certainly not a new concept—it can be brought on by a variety of factors, including diet, genetics, autoimmune issues and more— pandemic-related stress has resulted in a growing number of stylists needing to address this issue with their clients. “It’s important to note that there are some medical conditions that affect the scalp [and result in hair loss] and need to be addressed by a doctor,” says Emily Baker, a field signature artist for the Wella Company and Nioxin expert, who’s based in Orillia, Ont. “Having a conversation with your client about when they need to seek medical attention is vital, but oftentimes you— and your products—can help minimize or solve the problem.”

Client Conversations

When it comes to addressing these concerns with clients, having a proper consultation is extremely important, especially since thinning hair and hair loss can be a sensitive subject for most. “Having that conversation and finding out what has changed in the client’s life to try and get to the root of the issue is crucial,” says Carol Capp, an educator for L’Oréal Professionnel and Serioxyl specialist, who’s based in Port Hope, Ont. “We need some background information so we can help them and try to solve the problem. We created a box in our salon and asked if hair thinning is an issue, and the clients could write their name 26 salonmagazine.ca / June 2021

and number down and we’d call them to have a private conversation. Some people aren’t open to sitting in your salon chair and having that conversation.” According to Baker, addressing these issues is non-negotiable, so it’s about figuring out an approach that works for you. “When we’re behind the chair, we have to show our clients we care about them,” she says. “When getting into a sensitive issue, make eye contact and maybe lower your voice a bit as they probably don’t want everyone to know what’s going on. There are some key questions you can ask them. For instance, ‘Is your ponytail getting smaller? How has your hair been looking lately? Is your hairbrush getting fuller? How often do you wash your hair?’ Sometimes, stylists are afraid to approach this subject, but no matter how we do it, it’s our job to bring up things like this even if they make us slightly uncomfortable.”

Maintenance is Key

Although clients with all hair types and textures can experience thinning, those with highly textured locks that are more fragile and dry can experience even more breakage, making proper maintenance and care essential. “Fragile hair has a tendency to break off as opposed to falling out prematurely,” says Jennifer Smith, a Quebec-based national educator for BosleyMD. “When it comes to fragile and textured hair, it’s

important to nourish the scalp daily to ensure hair gains strength and density. When nourishing the scalp, every hair strand gains some strength and therefore becomes less fragile and less prone to breakage.” According to Capp, when it comes to hair loss in general but especially with textured hair, a lack of moisture in the hair and body can be an issue. “As far as fragile textured hair goes, sometimes it’s just about what they’re using. Sometimes a product that doesn’t have the moisture the hair needs could be causing excess breakage,” she says. “Especially when you’re talking about different ethnic hair textures, you have to be really careful that they’re using the right oils and the right products to breathe that moisture back into the hair and keep it strong.”

Cutting Corners

Cutting thinning hair can be tricky as your style options may be dependent upon where each client is losing their strands. “Some clients are losing their hair in the front, so some nice bangs are a good solution because giving them a

DID YOU KNOW CLIENTS WHO OFTEN WEAR THEIR HAIR IN BRAIDS, TIGHT PONYTAILS, BUNS OR USE A LOT OF CHEMICALS AND/OR HEAT ON THE HAIR CAN DEVELOP TRACTION ALOPECIA—A CONDITION, RESULTING IN HAIR LOSS, PARTICULARLY AROUND THE HAIRLINE, CAUSED BY REPEATEDLY PULLING ON THE HAIR. CLIENTS DEALING WITH THIS CAN SEEK ADVICE FROM A PROFESSIONAL TO FURTHER TREAT IT WHILE TAKING CARE OF THEIR SCALP BY USING NOURISHING PRODUCTS TO HELP SOOTHE IT.

PHOTOS: CURLY PONYTAIL BY DAIRY FREE DESIGN FROM THE NOUN PROJECT, ULTRASOUND BY VICTORULER FROM THE NOUN PROJECT, SLEEP BY ICONFIELD FROM THE NOUN PROJECT, TWO TONE COLOR HAIR BY LLISOLE FROM THE NOUN PROJECT

Tackling Thin Hair Concer

ning ns

full textured bang usually helps their confidence while hair is growing back,” says Capp. “I know a lot of women who have thinned at the back of their head so cutting is a bit more difficult. It comes down to creative styling. You can cut the hair any way you want but at the end of the day it’s about maneuvering and placement. Root touch-up products and sprays are a good way to cover and hide thinning spots.” Baker says she tries to focus on minimal layering and a lot of disconnection when cutting this type of hair. “We don’t really want to get rid of the fullness at the bottom,” she says. “The disconnection is going to keep that fullness while creating some internal layers.” And although she has a system for cutting the hair of clients who have thinning concerns, Baker adds that she always starts by addressing the scalp first to determine if she can figure out where the issue is coming from. “Not all clients want haircuts because they want to continue growing out their hair,” she says. “I teach some of my thinning-haired clients, especially those with fine hair, that eventually the ends don’t grow any fuller, so I usually suggest cutting it around or just below the collar bone to maintain fullness. I also recommend that they get a trim every two to three months and to use lots of treatments in between visits to keep the ends nice and strong.” When addressing thinning hair concerns with your curly-haired clients, Capp says there are a few things to always keep in mind. “When working with textured hair, some stylists believe that because it’s so curly, it needs to be pulled harder when blow-drying

or cutting, or that it needs to be really wet when cutting, but it’s actually the opposite of all of those things,” she says. “You want the hair to stay in its natural state when you’re cutting and colouring because you want to be able to work within that texture. Some stylists end up cutting the hair anyway but then it’s too short and the client that’s already insecure about losing hair now just lost a whole lot more hair. Leaving hair in its natural state when working on it will help you avoid things like that. I also make sure to recommend nighttime treatments that help restore moisture to naturally dry hair.”

Filling It In

Colour can be a great option for clients with thinning hair because it can help camouflage thinner areas. “Brunettes can be harder if the clients doesn’t want to go a little bit lighter since you might see [thinning] areas more clearly,” says Capp. “Convincing them to not go full blonde but to go a bit lighter in those areas can help mask it a little bit.” She adds that it’s all about good placement, suggesting natural-looking colours as opposed to bold ones and placing an emphasis on finer and lighter placement (specifically in problem areas), which can help everything blend nicely. “Creating multidimension in the hair is a great option when dealing with hair thinning,” says Baker. “It creates more of a look where it’s all different highs and lows in the hair, and this distracts the eyes from the scalp, making the hair look a little bit fuller.” An equally important consideration when it comes thinning strands and colour, though, is assessing the health ➤

DID YOU KNOW AFTER PREGNANCY, SOME PEOPLE MAY EXPERIENCE HAIR THINNING AROUND THE TEMPLES. BAKER SUGGESTS THAT IF A CLIENT IS GOING THROUGH POST-PARTUM OR IS THINNING OUT AT THE TEMPLES FOR ANOTHER REASON, A NICE FRINGE HELPS TO CREATE MORE FULLNESS, ESPECIALLY WHEN LOOKING AT THE FRONT OF THE HAIR.

DID YOU KNOW WHEN WE SLEEP, OUR MUSCLES REPAIR THEMSELVES AND OUR HAIR DOES THE SAME THING. ACCORDING TO CAPP, YOUR HAIR BENEFITS A BIT MORE FROM A MASK OR TREATMENT APPLIED OVERNIGHT THAN IT DOES FROM ONE APPLIED DURING THE DAY.

PRO TIP ACCORDING TO BAKER, SOME CLIENTS THINK THEY NEED TO BE LIGHTER AT THE ROOT SO THEY CAN CAMOUFLAGE THE SCALP, WHEN IN FACT IT’S THE OPPOSITE. THEY NEED SOME DEPTH AT THE ROOT, SO IT DRAWS THE EYES TOWARDS THE ENDS TO CREATE MORE FULLNESS. salonmagazine.ca / June 2021 27

of the hair prior to the service. “If a client comes in and their ends are completely torched and I know their hair can’t handle a full colour service, I try to adapt the service to something the hair can handle,” says Baker. “I’ll go in with something like a demi-permanent if I’m not able to fully lighten, rather than have my client walk away with nothing.”

Style Solutions

“CREATING LIGHTNESS IN THE MID-SHAFT AND ENDS REALLY DRAWS THE EYES TO SEE MORE FULLNESS THERE, WHICH IS WHAT YOU WANT TO FOCUS ON.” — EMILY BAKER, WELLA FIELD SIGNATURE ARTIST AND NIOXIN EXPERT, ORILLIA, ONT.

Although styling hair can be a great way to add volume and give thinning hair a fuller look, the health of the hair should remain the priority. “If hair is fragile to begin with, maybe hot tools are not for them,” says Capp. “Blowing out the hair every once in a while is fine, as long as you use the right tools and a heat protectant. Curls are a great look when it comes to adding volume and fullness and texture sprays and powders are great for styling as they give off the illusion that there’s more going on than there really is.” While Baker agrees that creating curls in thinning hair helps with creating fullness, and limiting the use of hot styling tools and using a thermal protector are a must, she says it’s important to come up with other looks that the client feels comfortable with. “Whether it be a loose ponytail or braid, it’s nice to help clients come up with a few options for how to wear their hair in between the use of tools.”

Nioxin Scalp Relief Baker recommends this line to clients who are experiencing scalp irritation, and especially to those with textured and coily hair with braids and extensions that may be pulling on the scalp. She suggests it as both a preventative measure and treatment since it’s free of parabens, sulfates and artificial colours, and works to soothe, protect and moisturize the scalp.

L’Oréal Professionnel Serioxyl Volumizing Coloured Spray Capp uses this spray because it has fibre pieces in it, meaning it creates a very realistic texture on hair. She says it comes in a variety of shades, including grey, and even her male peers and clients use it as a temporary fix.

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BosleyMD BosDefense System and Bos-Volume Hair Thickening Fibers Smith suggests this three-step system to nourish and treat the scalp, along with the brand’s Hair Thickening Fibers (available in four intermixable shades), to temporarily cover roots and minimize the appearance of thinning spots.

Toppik Hair Building Fibers These coloured keratin fibres blend with existing hair and work to create the illusion of thicker hair. Available in four shades (black, dark brown, medium brown and light brown), they instantly camouflage the look of thinning hair, and are perfect for all clients looking to fill in bald spots, patchy beards, part lines and more.

Color Wow Root Cover Up Available in eight multidimensional shades, Color Wow’s Root Cover Up is perfect for clients looking to cover greys or camouflage roots, as its powder formula seamlessly blends with existing hair to add dimension.

Viviscal Gorgeous Growth Densifying Elixir Formulated with Ana:Tel, a unique blend of biotin, keratin and zinc, Viviscal’s Gorgeous Growth Densifying Elixir is a lightweight leavein treatment that cleanses the scalp and adds body, and is perfect for all hair types.

PHOTOS: GETTY STOCK, NIOXIN, L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, BOSLEY, TOPPIK, COLOR WOW, VIVISCAL

Product Bar

CONFIDENT CURLS Are you unsure of your ability to work with highly textured hair? We spoke with the experts about how to best cut, colour and style.

PHOTOS: GETTY STOCK

BY VERONICA BOODHAN AND SAMI CHAZONOFF

Let’s face it: There are many salons that have been slow to learn about all hair types and textures. As such, when it comes to catering to clientele with tighter curl patterns, some hairstylists are left “spiralling” out of control. “When you’re working in a salon that only wants to stick to what they’ve always been doing, stylists are not going above and beyond to learn more and we end up in the situation we’re seeing right now,” says Paula Whitelocke, owner of Curly Hair Designs in Ottawa. “As stylists, I think it’s really important to focus on all the different hair types. Hair is hair, so it’s about shifting your mindset around what it takes to work with curlier hair. It does take a different amount of time and effort but once you learn how, it’s a lot easier to understand.” For clients with tighter, coily curls (also known as Type 4 hair) some stylists may believe these strands are thicker and more robust, but they’re actually quite delicate. While working with this hair type is similar to others in some ways, there are a few factors to keep in mind when working with it. ➤

salonmagazine.ca / June 2021 29

When cutting tighter curl patterns, it’s important to consider how the client wears their hair on a regular basis. While many stylists prefer to cut hair while it’s wet, most experts agree that tighter, coily curls are best cut while dry and in their most natural state. “The client should wash their hair the night before and come to the salon with it in its natural state or in a style they regularly wear. I always prefer to cut [Type 4] hair dry because it has different patterns. Once you wet hair, the pattern starts to shift and could become a different dimension of curls, so cutting dry is my preference because I have more control.” — Donna Dolphy, owner of Donna Dolphy Hair, Toronto “It’s important to remember that curls expand and take up space. For stylists who are just starting out, it’s vital that they visually build a shape and you can do that more when the hair is dry. Curls can have different tendencies, which can be very similar, and you can identify more of them the longer you’re working with them. You have to be able to predict what happens before it does, and what the hair might do.” — Paula Whitelocke, owner of Curly Hair Designs, Ottawa 30 salonmagazine.ca / June 2021

“I’ve noticed with Type 4 hair that a lot of clients want to cut or wear their hair a bit shorter because they believe it’s more manageable, and they’re not wrong. But as stylists, we know that if you have the right techniques and manipulation coupled with the right products that add moisture to the hair, you can have good, strong, healthy coily hair.” —Gladys Afolayan, owner of Creative Mindz Salon and Barbershop in Calgary, Alta. “It depends on the curl type, but usually you want to cut curl by curl, especially if you’re cutting in its natural state. I would wash and reset the curls so they’re fresh, and section the hair off in four sections. Take one curl at a time and cut half an inch to an inch off the bottom. It’s the safest way and you can look at the silhouette in the mirror and shape it accordingly.” — Aisha Loobie, owner of Crown ‘N’ Glory, Toronto

— DONNA DOLPHY, DONNA DOLPHY HAIR, TORONTO

PRO TIP IF THE CLIENT WEARS THEIR HAIR BOTH NATURALLY CURLY AND STRAIGHTENED, LOOBIE RECOMMENDS BLOW-DRYING IT OUT HALFWAY BEFORE CUTTING IT TO MAKE SURE IT’S EVEN FOR HOWEVER THEY CHOOSE TO WEAR IT.

PHOTOS: GETTY STOCK, HAIR DRYER BY LLISOLE FROM THE NOUN PROJECT, CREAM BY VECTORSTALL FROM THE NOUN PROJECT, LEAF BY GHUFRONAGUSTIAN FROM THE NOUN PROJECT, PLUS BY SCOTT DESMOND FROM THE NOUN PROJECT

Cutting

“COILY-HAIRED CLIENTS NEED TO TREAT THEIR HAIR SIMILAR TO HOW THEY TREAT THEIR FACE; IT NEEDS MASKS, HYDRATION AND MOST OF ALL, IT NEEDS MORE ATTENTION. IT’S LIKE GROWING A TREE—YOU HAVE TO WATER IT REGULARLY FOR IT TO THRIVE.”

Colouring

Once you’ve mastered the art of colouring hair, Type 4 hair shouldn’t be any different. However it’s important to keep in mind the fragility of this hair texture, so some colourists recommend opting for slower techniques and gentler products. “You just need to become more versed on the underlying pigments that are in this specific texture and how high you can take it. Type 4 hair is a lot more delicate and can react differently to lightening services. You shouldn’t lighten hair that’s been chemically relaxed because these two different chemicals services are not exactly compatible. Otherwise, you can highlight and balayage the same way [as other hair textures], as well as do one-step colours, rinses, protein and other colouring services.” — Adrian Carew, owner of Hair 91, Toronto “I find that with curly hair, you cannot tease as much as you can with straight hair because curly hair tends to spring up, so you could end up with a lot more dimension than you want. Curly hair also tends to lighten faster than straight hair, because it’s coarser and more porous so the cuticle is more open. It has a rapid reaction and then

PRO TIP MUDAVANHU RECOMMENDS USING FOILS TO INCUBATE THE HAIR FOR THE BEST LIFT, AND SUGGESTS USING A CREAM-BASED LIGHTENER BECAUSE THEY TEND TO CONTAIN MORE OILS, WHICH ARE MORE MOISTURIZING FOR HAIR.

PRO TIP DOLPHY PREFERS USING GENTLER COLOUR PRODUCTS, SUCH AS AMMONIAFREE ALTERNATIVES, TO MAINTAIN THE HEALTH OF HAIR.

it really starts to slow down. Pay close attention to make sure you’ve lifted it to the level of lightness that you really want. You have to be patient when you’re lightening curly hair. Start low with a 20 Vol, or even a 10 Vol if the hair is finer.” — Sharon Mudavanhu, colourist and brunette balayage expert, Vivid Salon, Mississauga, Ont. “I always start with a consultation to find out how the hair has been maintained—this is particularly important with curly- and coily-haired clients, as it’s such a fragile and delicate texture. I always say don’t mess with Type 4 hair if you’re not going to maintain it, because it will break off and dry out. I like to go slow and gentle—it’s like cooking a turkey. The less volume you use, the slower it will pull the colour, but it will leave the integrity of the hair in a healthier state.” — Donna Dolphy, owner of Donna Dolphy Hair, Toronto

“When it comes to choosing chemicals for coily hair, always assume the hair is fine. I never put more than 10 Vol on extremely coily hair—I always use 5 or 10 Vol and many clients don’t even believe that it’s going to show but when they look at my past work, they realize not only will it show but it also won’t cause any breakage. I also make sure my clients have the right products at home to maintain the hair post-service. When using the right chemicals and formulas suited for this hair type, the hair will cooperate.” — Gladys Afolayan, owner of Creative Mindz Salon and Barbershop in Calgary, Alta.

PRO TIP FOR ADDED PROTECTION DURING COLOUR SERVICES, CONSIDER USING A COLOUR LINE WITH A BUILT-IN BOND BUILDER, OR ADD A BOND BUILDER INTO THE COLOUR FORMULA TO HELP PROTECT HAIR’S INTEGRITY.

“For some kinkier, curlier hair types, you cannot go in with too strong of a developer or it can destroy the curl pattern. You always want to take it slow. For some of my curly clients, I love open-air lightener. The reality is, the darker the hair is, the more warm undertones it’s going to have and you can’t get to that light blonde the first time, like some others may be able to, without causing some destruction to the hair. It’s one thing for them to want that, but it’s another thing for you to be able to say what is and isn’t achievable in their first service. And even if you can get them to that colour in their first service, it doesn’t mean that you should. Similar to straight hair types, you get breakage at the ends, but with curls you also can get breakage along the entire shaft. Consider the ultimate goal and what colour or level is the best to hold on to as much of the hair’s health as possible.” — Paula Whitelocke, owner of Curly Hair Designs, Ottawa ➤

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“You definitely want to ask the client if they've had a previous colour experience. A lot of times, natural clients will use rinses and semi-permanents just to bring out the natural colour in their hair, and they don’t always consider telling us because they didn’t mix it up in a bowl so they'll tell you that they didn't do anything. Strand tests are always important, especially if you're lightening the hair because you don't know what you're working with and a lot of the time, natural hair—Type 4 hair—is usually finer, so to just go in there with a lightener can end up really damaging it. Doing a strand test can prevent that and set realistic expectations to your client on what they can and cannot achieve.” — Aisha Loobie, owner of Crown ‘N’ Glory, Toronto

“[For clients with straightened hair] you should ask if they’ve had a straightening treatment, like a keratin treatment or relaxer. With a relaxer, you definitely cannot lighten hair because it will fall off or be very dry. With keratin treatments, you have to find out how long ago they did it and how often they plan on doing it. If they’re not sure, they should contact their salon. Usually, clients have to wait at least two weeks after a keratin treatment before a colour service, and it’s always ideal that they do the keratin treatment first. Otherwise, the reverse can cause the keratin to lift or change the colour.” — Sharon Mudavanhu, colourist and brunette balayage expert, Vivid Salon, Mississauga, Ont.

It’s a known fact that clients with tighter and coily curl patterns have experienced unique challenges when visiting salons—from not feeling welcomed to not having a stylist in the salon who wants (or knows how) to work with their hair, to being turned away altogether. “A lot of times what happens in the curly hair community is that if you have one bad experience, you don’t go back for years,” says Whitelocke. “I have a lot of clients who haven’t been in the salon for 10, 20 or 30 years, and never had a great haircut because of so many negative experiences in salons.” From consultations to retail, here’s what our experts have to say:

“I like to know what products they’re currently using, how often they shampoo their hair, how often they get their hair cut and basically ask them to tell me a story about their hair—what has the salon experience been like up until this point? I ask what they like and what they dislike. Knowing some of their history goes a long way.” — Donna Dolphy, owner of Donna Dolphy Hair, Toronto “I think a lot of it begins once they walk in. What’s the greeting like? How welcoming are they at your front desk? Try to make [prospective clients] feel welcome and seen within the first 30 seconds. Address them by their name and continue to make them feel comfortable throughout the appointment, even when you’re busy. During the consultation, be really focused on listening more than speaking. At the end of the appointment, explain what they can do to take care of their hair and show them that you care and aren’t just about selling products.” — Sharon Mudavanhu, colourist and brunette balayage expert, Vivid Salon, Mississauga, Ont. “Every client needs a proper consultation. Before you do anything to the hair, you need to know about their habits. The best advice I can give a stylist working with textured hair is ‘know your curl patterns.’ Know how your client maintains her hair on a daily basis and you’ll be able to give her a proper service—whether it be about embracing her curls or straightening her hair, that will make her happy. ”— Donna Dolphy, owner of Donna Dolphy Hair, Toronto

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“I would recommend that stylists ask their client to show them pictures of what their desired look is, and for the stylist to set realistic expectations on whether or not they think or believe that their hair can achieve the looks they’re showing. A lot of the times, the texture of the person in the picture means the stylist is expected to create a miracle out of the texture, length or density that they have.” — Aisha Loobie, owner, Crown ‘N’ Glory, Toronto “Take your time with the consultation. Some stylists only have 45 minutes for a service, and to me it’s just not realistic to get clients to where they want to go. Sometimes you need an hour or two. Whether it’s a firsttime client or not, ask for photos in advance so you can prep how much time you’ll need. Have more of a thorough consultation so everybody is clear and on the same page, and you ultimately set yourself up for more success because of that.” — Paula Whitelocke, owner of Curly Hair Designs, Ottawa “Treat your clients like kings and queens. Remember them and give them 110 per cent of your work. Suggest change to them—even if it’s small, they’ll appreciate the suggestions. Make them feel special as soon as they walk through your door. It’s all about acknowledgment and respect.”—Adrian Carew, owner of Hair 91, Toronto

“Stylists should know better than the client. Most times, clients aren’t exactly sure about what they should be doing. They come in with questions about caring for their hair, products to use, how frequently they should wash their hair and more. Stylists need to be equipped to answer any and all of these questions. Clients come in with a variety of hair challenges and not enough stylists are educating them on how to take care of their hair and about products they should use. Stylists should bring along the client in the process and let them know, step-by-step, what they’re doing. Services on Type 4 hair typically have more steps involved before achieving the hair goal, so be open with your clients about the process and price for the services. Clients don’t mind paying if they’re getting the right service, but they like to be in the loop. Break down the reasons why the service will take the amount of time it will, explain which products you’re using and why. I always carry my clients along and they really appreciate that—it also helps with the client/stylist bond. Also, never assume a client wouldn’t pay for something before asking them first— you’d be surprised.” — Gladys Afolayan, owner of Creative Mindz Salon and Barbershop in Calgary, Alta.

For a list of where to find texture hair education across Canada, visit SalonMagazine.ca.

PHOTOS: GETTY STOCK, ELASTIC SPRING BY PROSYMBOLS FROM THE NOUN PROJECT, ALCOHOL FREE BY PIXELICATOM FROM THE NOUN PROJECT

Enhancing the Experience

Styling

Whether your client is looking to enhance their natural curls or wear their hair straight, there are a few things to keep in mind to help your client achieve their goal while maintaining hair’s health and integrity. “Not all coily hair is exactly the same, but you’re dealing with density and hair that’s very porous and has sometimes been chemically treated. I advise my clients with coily hair to not brush or comb it dry. The coil pattern is extremely tight and mixed with different bends and twists. When it comes to brushing hair that’s dry, it’s human nature to use force on the hair. Type 4 hair is like a spiderweb and when you’re using the wrong comb or you’re brushing it dry, you’re breaking the hair; you’re basically trying to straighten hair that is naturally bent. For styling, misting the hair with water will help soften it without force or pressure as the hair has the ability to move better when wet so you can direct the hair where and how you want it. — Gladys Afolayan, owner, Creative Mindz Salon and Barbershop, Calgary, Alta. “You can do a lot to style Type 4 hair once you maintain the health of it. Flat irons, curling irons and crimpers work well, but a proper heat protectant is necessary. Also, you always want to condition the hair because curls lack moisture and no matter what hair texture you’re working with, if there’s no moisture in the hair, the curls will not last.” — Adrian Carew, owner, Hair 91, Toronto “It’s best to use a deep conditioner and detangling brush, and comb the conditioner in the hair in small sections. Then, I let my client sit with it for at least 10 to 15 minutes before washing. I style with a lot of water and products, as well as a finger comb technique to loosen the curls and create definition. I work the hair, section by section, once it’s super moisturized and push the product into the root area and crunch it [with my hands] to create a nice curl pattern. When all sections around the head are finished, I then use a diffuser and move it in the same motion, using my hands to crunch the hair. I go in with the diffuser at the ends and crunch it to the root area in back-and-forth motions. When set properly, it can last for a full week.” — Donna Dolphy, owner, Donna Dolphy Hair, Toronto

PRO TIP WHEN STYLING HAIR, TRY RAKING YOUR FINGERS THROUGH THE HAIR TO PREVENT OVERBRUSHING IT. NOT ONLY CAN OVERBRUSHING CAUSE MORE BREAKAGE (ESPECIALLY IF THE WRONG TYPES OF BRUSHES ARE BEING USED) BUT IT CAN CAUSE THE CURL PATTERN TO EXPAND, SO WHETHER THE CLIENT HAS A TIGHTER OR LOOSER CURL PATTERN, IT ENDS UP LOOKING THE SAME AND CAN APPEAR MORE OVERWHELMING THAN IT ACTUALLY IS.

“Water is the biggest key to making sure hair is moisturized. If I can’t hear a squish sound before I apply the product, the hair is not wet enough. Sections are also important when styling—I typically work with three. You have to really work the product into hair, so patience is the biggest key for both the stylist and client. With that said, it’s not just about the product; it’s how you use and apply it. It’s not just not about having a miracle product or process, it’s about the patience it takes to actually work with the hair to get to that final result.” — Paula Whitelocke, owner, Curly Hair Designs, Ottawa “You should ask the client if they’re comfortable with you using heat in their hair because not a lot of naturals like heat, even down to a blow dryer—they want their natural texture and for you to be able to work with that. It’s easy to grab a blow dryer and stretch out the hair, or to grab a flat iron and straighten it to be able to manipulate it, but you definitely want to ask first.” — Aisha Loobie, owner, Crown ‘N’ Glory, Toronto

PRO TIP WHILE SOME STYLISTS (AND CLIENTS) THINK USING OILS IS THE KEY TO KEEPING HAIR MOISTURIZED, TOO MUCH CAN BE A BAD THING. LOOBIE ADVISES AGAINST ‘GREASING THE SCALP’ SINCE IT CAN CLOG PORES AND SIT ON THE SURFACE OF THE HAIR AND SCALP. INSTEAD, SHE SUGGESTS USING MORE CONDITIONING TREATMENTS OR LEAVE-IN CONDITIONERS AND STAYING AWAY FROM PRODUCTS WITH ALCOHOL OR SULFATES, WHICH CAN DRY HAIR OUT. SHE ALSO RECOMMENDS AVOIDING MINERAL OILS SINCE IT CAN CAUSE BUILDUP AND MAKE THE HAIR APPEAR FLAT AND LIMP.

salonmagazine.ca / June 2021 33

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Inner Strength Go behind the scenes of our cover shoot with Kérastase’s Canadian editorial director, David D’Amours. BY VERONICA BOODHAN

For our June cover, we partnered with Kérastase and their Canadian editorial director, David D’Amours, on an exclusive photo shoot that celebrates the beauty of texture, just in time for the brand’s launch of Curl Manifesto, a new care and styling product range designed for all curl types. We chatted with D’Amours about his inspiration and how he challenged himself to learn new skills.

PHOTO: ROYAL GILBERT

FOR THE PHOTO SHOOT, D’AMOURS USED KÉRASTASE’S NEW CURL MANIFESTO LINE, INCLUDING CRÈME DE JOUR FONDAMENTALE, A DAILY MOISTURIZING FRIZZ-REDUCING LEAVE-IN TREATMENT AND REFRESH ABSOLU, A SECOND-DAY CURL REFRESHING SPRAY.

Tell us about the photo shoot and what inspired it. I wanted to have fun with different types of curls and challenge myself to work with different types of hair. As professionals, I think it's very important to educate ourselves to understand every type of hair, and for me this was an amazing opportunity to try different techniques. How did you select the models? What were you looking for? I wanted to showcase all hair textures and be inclusive of different body types, too; I think it's a reflection of my clientele. I wanted the shoot to have a timeless yet modern vibe. One model has a nose ring, and another has freckles, so I wanted it to feel that it was not just for one type of person. I was inspired by the models and think it’s important—whether I’m working with my clients in the salon or celebrities—to be inspired by them. What do you most enjoy about Kérastase’s new Curl Manifesto line? It was the right time to welcome Curl Manifesto. It’s for every type of curly hair, and I love that because I feel it has the same reflection that I have—to be inclusive and work with different types of hair. I'm so happy now that it's here, and I love that I was able to do a photo shoot and have fun with the products. I’m so proud to be part of a team that was ready to challenge themselves with these new products.

Where do you get your creative inspiration from? My inspiration always begins with the woman that I have in front of me. I’ve always been inspired by women, even when I was a little child; they are all my muses. In order to be inspired, it first needs to be within us—inside of us—and after that, we can challenge ourselves with magazines and social media. I'm following a lot of hairdressers around the world, as well as designers and photographers. I think it's very important to be open and to challenge ourselves. What advice do you have for hairstylists who want to learn how to work with all hair textures? As professionals, it’s the right time to be open to learning new techniques and to merge and share our tips and knowledge because we’re stronger together. When I was in hair school, I was not learning about all these techniques. I think we need to integrate them to feel more complete as professionals. Try new techniques on a model and remember that it’s not about doing everything right. Sometimes, you learn from your mistakes and can’t be afraid to try new techniques on different types of hair. Ask your models questions about their hair routine and what works well for them. It’s the same relationship that I have in the salon with my clients; it's like an exchange to get to know their hair better, because every person is unique and sometimes every routine can be personalized. I think the power of perspective is a very strong thing. salonmagazine.ca / June 2021 35

Collections — CONFIDENCE

This ultrafeminine collection by Kérastase’s Canadian editorial director, David D’Amours, features gorgeous curls to empower women to embrace their hair’s natural texture.

36 salonmagazine.ca / June 2021

HAIR David D’Amours, PRIVÉ Par David D’Amours, Montreal HAIR ASSISTANT

Stéphanie Niquet MAKEUP Nisha Gulati WARDROBE STYLING Emmanuelle Rochon PHOTOS Royal Gilbert POST-PRODUCTION Valérie Laliberté salonmagazine.ca / June 2021 37

Collections — ROUGE

This warm and playful “red” collection combines strong silhouettes, texture and a diverse range of techniques that truly pop.

38 salonmagazine.ca / June 2021

HAIR Ying-Sun Li, Jessica Quinlan, Paige Johnston & Olivia Oudy, Masci Hair and Spa, Australia MAKEUP Kylie O’Toole WARDROBE STYLING Leroy Lorenzo PHOTOS Andrew O’Toole salonmagazine.ca / June 2021 39

Collections — DREAMY

Dramatic fringe and rich tones make this Canadian collection a real standout.

CONTESSA 2021 FINALIST, MULTICULTURAL HAIRSTYLIST Michelle Pargee, Independent, Sechelt, B.C. MAKEUP Michael Chua WARDROBE STYLING Michelle Pargee PHOTOS Kale Friesen

40 salonmagazine.ca / June 2021

salonmagazine.ca / June 2021 41

Collections — GROOVY

This Canadian collection pays homage to the 1970s with playful styles and shades that have been transformed into wearable new looks.

42 salonmagazine.ca / June 2021

CONTESSA 2021 ENTRANT, CANADIAN HAIRSTYLIST

Johanna Libbey, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver MAKEUP Evelyn Afleck WARDROBE STYLING Sandra Scott PHOTOS Philip Jarmain salonmagazine.ca / June 2021 43

Collections — PAST-ELLE

Inspired by vintage hair looks, this British collection’s fresh colour palette gives it a genuine retro vibe while providing some truly epic hair inspiration for summer.

44 salonmagazine.ca / June 2021

HAIR Teri Lowe, The Hair Surgery, U.K. MAKEUP Stacey Ellen Simpson WARDROBE STYLING Tim Scott-Wright art team PHOTOS James Nicklin salonmagazine.ca / June 2021 45

Collections — ÜBER LUXUS

This Australian collection puts the spotlight on masterful haircutting and styling with a series of shapes and colours that focus on form and function.

HAIR Bill Tsiknaris, Tsiknaris Hair, Brisbane, Australia MAKEUP Pablo Morgade WARDROBE STYLING Josie McManus PHOTOS David Mannah

46 salonmagazine.ca / June 2021

salonmagazine.ca / June 2021 47

Collections — LAWLESS

This ethereal British collection honours the natural beauty and strength of Black women by showcasing a wide range of styles, textures and shapes.

48 salonmagazine.ca / June 2021

HAIR Anne Veck, Anne Veck Oxford, U.K. MAKEUP Amelia Roberts WARDROBE STYLING Jamie Russell PHOTOS

Desmond Murray

salonmagazine.ca / June 2021 49

PRESENTED BY

REIGNITE YOUR

PASSION E NTE R N OW!

DEADLINE: SEPTEMBER 8, 2021

NEW RULE CHANGES! FIND OUT MORE AT SALONMAGAZINE.CA/CONTESSA #ContessaAwards

Contessa Gallery — 2021 FINALIST, MULTICULTURAL HAIRSTYLIST

Janet Jackson Although she’s been in the salon industry for more than 20 years, being a hairstylist was never part of Janet Jackson’s initial plan. The owner of JouJou Hair Studio in Toronto, Jackson found her way into the industry as a college student, juggling a variety of jobs. Among them: Assisting at a local hair salon. It was during her time here that she discovered the beauty industry was something she was interested in. “When I first started out, there wasn’t much representation in terms of being a Black, female, Canadian hairstylist,” says Jackson. “I became extremely passionate about my career, but also equally passionate about figuring out what was missing from the industry and what I could offer to it.” 52 salonmagazine.ca / June 2021

Creating Space While some stylists and beauty pros may enter competitions for the bragging rights, feeling of accomplishment or simply to add to their resume—which Jackson admits she thinks about, too—she enters competitions, such as the Contessa Awards, for an entirely different reason. “I like to show other Black female hairstylists that there is space for us in these events,” she says. “I chose to enter the Multicultural Hairstylist category because it’s meant for hairstylists who can work with all textures. I am very much that hairstylist who works with all hair types and I’m really proud of that.”

Starting from the Bottom Though Jackson is now a renowned hairstylist known for her television work and celebrity clientele, she continues to be passionate about her craft and promoting diversity and inclusion within the industry. “I was always struggling to be seen in the industry,” she says. “I am a Black female hairstylist, but I don’t only do Black hair and I was getting caught up in that category.” The key to her ability to break through, Jackson says, was education, and she believes it’s what will help hairstylists become more well-rounded and able to see the change that the industry is in dire need of. “We need to be teaching new talent and giving them the tools needed to become professional stylists. They need to be equipped with the knowledge of how to work with all hair types,” she says. “Change and promoting inclusion starts with education. We need to acknowledge that this problem exists so we can begin to move forward.”

TEXT: SAMI CHAZONOFF, PHOTO: HAIR: JANET JACKSON, JOUJOU HAIR STUDIO, TORONTO, MAKEUP: ELENA PACIENZA, NAILS: CHELSY ORBETA, WARDROBE STYLING: KAT FLANAGAN, PHOTOS: JAMIE TORRANCE

Braids Galore For her most recent Contessa collection, Jackson was inspired to showcase braids in a different context. “We see braids so often; they’re always marketed the same way on the same type of model with the same hair type,” she says. “I wanted to show this look on different models. When we see braids, we don’t usually see them incorporated with another technique.” Although Jackson chose to focus on braids in this collection, she says she most enjoys working with textured hair. “I love texture because there’s such a huge variety to work with, from loose waves to super tight curls to kinky hair or an afro,” she says. “It’s great to play with and you can manipulate it in so many ways. I’ve always loved the versatility of it and how magical it can be. You can create just about anything with texture.”

“For me, it’s about creating things that we haven’t seen before. I feel that within our industry, we see the same techniques and styling, and I’ve always been that person who wants to do something I haven’t seen before.”

salonmagazine.ca / June 2021 53

Contessa — NEW RULE CHANGES

NEW RULE CHANGES* FOR CONTESSA 2022!

REFRESH Any past, non-winning work that’s been refreshed (eg. previously photographed collections that have been edited to include a new background, effect, additional photos/ outtakes, etc.) can be re-entered in all categories except Canadian Hairstylist, Canadian Salon Team and Master Colourist. IMPORTANT EDITING OF THE HAIR’S CUT, SHAPE, STYLE OR COLOUR IS NOT PERMITTED.

2 3

COMEBACK Any past, non-winning work can be re-entered for the following categories only: Canadian Colourist, Canadian Nail Artist, Emerging Hairstylist, Freestyle, Makeup Artist, Provincial Categories, Session Hairstylist and Salon Interior Design. NEW We encourage and welcome new work in all categories, however the following categories must be entered with new collections that have never been entered into the Contessa Awards: Canadian Hairstylist, Canadian Salon Team and Master Colourist.

NUMBER OF MODELS You are now permitted to utilize one model with three to five different looks in all categories. NOTE FOR ALL CATEGORIES, WE STRONGLY ENCOURAGE THE INCLUSION OF MODELS WHO ARE PEOPLE OF COLOUR TO REPRESENT THE BEAUTY OF CANADA’S DIVERSITY.

MANNEQUIN HEADS We understand that it still may be difficult for some regions to organize a photo shoot with live models due to pandemic restrictions. As a result, for this year only, we’re allowing the use of mannequin heads in all categories!

DIY PHOTOGRAPHY If you’re unable to hire a professional photographer for your photo shoot, we want to remind you that you’re welcome to use your smartphone for photography.

For our full list of Contessa rules and regulations, visit SalonMagazine.ca/Contessa *Due to the COVID-19 pandemic, these rule changes are applicable for this year only. 54 salonmagazine.ca / June 2021

Business —

FINDING YOUR VOICE Learn how two salon owners are doing their part to help promote diversity and inclusion in the beauty industry, and how you can, too.

LEFT PAGE: PHOTO: HAIR: SILAS TSANG, BLUSHES, OTTAWA, MAKEUP: KYLIE O’TOOLE, WARDROBE STYLING: KARLY BROWN, PHOTO: ANDREW O’TOOLE; RIGHT PAGE: PHOTOS: GETTYSTOCK , BRIDGE BY LUIS PRADO FROM THE NOUN PROJECT

BY VERONICA BOODHAN

As many of us are aware, there’s a lack of diversity in the professional beauty industry. In addition to recognizing it, we need to understand how it’s happened so it can be addressed and changed. It’s safe to say most of us would agree that it begins with the lack of education about textured hair in beauty schools. “When you come out of hair school, you have the basic knowledge of colour, cut, blow-dries, perms and highlights, but you know zero about curly hair,” says Nancy Falaise, owner of Salon Académie Nancy Falaise, a natural texture salon and academy in Montreal. “Hairstylists should come out of school with basic knowledge of working with curly hair, just like they come out with the basic knowledge of colour.”

Dissecting the Divide Falaise, who’s been working in the industry for more than 20 years, says she’s noticed the divide in the beauty community for quite some time. It was only nine years ago that she began embracing her own natural hair. “When I worked for other salons, I always wore my hair straight,” she remembers. “It was only after I was diagnosed with breast cancer nine years ago that I really fell in love with my curly hair, and it changed everything. It made me discover who I am.” In 2017, she opened her own salon and academy, which is committed to helping educate young hairstylists in and out of hair school, along with any hairstylists interested in learning. “It’s all about the mindset,” she says. “Some older hairstylists with more experience don’t want to learn about something different; they're comfortable where they are. I choose my battles and now I’m focused on the people coming behind me—coming out of school. It’s important that we teach them in school while they’re fresh.”

Working in the beauty industry for 15 years, Solange Ashoori, owner of Ziba Style Bar, an inclusive salon in Toronto, noticed and experienced firsthand the challenges of being a woman of colour in the beauty industry. “Going into salons, I was often told that they couldn't work with my hair. Some salons wouldn’t even know how to cut my hair while it was curly,” she recalls. “I also noticed that there are specific salons just for people with curly or textured hair, and that was something I never really understood. I appreciated those salons for being there, but I just didn't understand why people with curly hair needed to be a niche. Getting into the beauty industry made me realize how marginalized it is.” While she admits that not all of her past experiences were negative, Ashoori says she used her experiences to open her own salon in 2018. “Seeing everything that needed to be changed really helped me embrace my own hair and what I look like, and see the diversity that needs to be implemented,” ➤ salonmagazine.ca / June 2021 55

Business —

she says. “I really wanted to shift that narrative as much as I could and I knew that it had to be engrained in the DNA of our business.” Not only does Ashoori and her team at Ziba Style Bar offer a space that’s inclusive to all clientele, she’s made sure her staff’s skill set is diverse as well, specializing in everything from curly hair and braids to extensions, cuts, colour and more. “I made sure that I hired people that were well-versed in curly hair, which was challenging at first. The stylists I hired had to go above and beyond what they already learned in hair school to work on curly hair textures,” she says. “From there, it was easy for me to find stylists when they saw the type of dynamic we have. They came to us because it was a salon in which they felt they could also feel represented.”

“I THINK MORE INCLUSIVITY IN SALONS IS A FIRST STEP—HIRING OR TRAINING STYLISTS ON CURLY HAIR EDUCATION AND MAKING SPACE FOR THESE TYPES OF STYLISTS WHO ARE MORE VERSED IN ALL HAIR TYPES. MAKE IT KNOWN TO YOUR CLIENTELE THAT YOU DO ADVOCATE FOR THOSE HAIR TYPES AND YOU’RE ABLE TO EXECUTE THESE STYLES.” — SOLANGE ASHOORI, OWNER, ZIBA STYLE BAR, TORONTO

Among the most troubling concerns regarding the lack of diversity in salons are the stigmas surrounding curly hair, specifically Type 3C to 4C hair. “Some people think we have this coarse, dense and hard hair, but it’s actually the opposite; curly hair is very delicate, so you have to manipulate it with extra love, take your time and not use harsh chemicals or you’re going to kill it,” explains Falaise. “We need to demystify curly hair, because if you’ve never worked with or washed it, and someone like me walks in with a lot of hair, it might be scary because you think you’ll never be able to. That said, my hair is so soft and super easy to work with. You just have to have the proper products and key points. It might take longer, but it’s not harder to do.” While the lack of education in beauty schools is part of the problem, the other is salons that refuse to cater to the curly hair market, which prevents them from being an inclusive space and impedes hairstylists from getting a full comprehension of working with all hair types. “Hair stigma just gets worse the more textured your hair is,” says Ashoori, adding that it’s common practice for some hairstylists to straighten curly hair before cutting it and to even turn some curly-haired clients away. 56 salonmagazine.ca / June 2021

“There definitely needs to be more representation in the beauty industry, and though I see small shifts happening, it could definitely diversify a lot more,” says Ashoori. “Really focusing on why we have this stigma around textured hair and making a conscious effort to start embracing the texture rather than trying to tame, relax or make it look more professional as we've been trained to think, is a step in the right direction.” Taking the time to conduct a thorough consultation is one of the most important things you can do, not only to establish a relationship with the client, but to understand what they want and need from you. “Asking questions like, ‘What’s your mission with your hair? Are you trying to go back to curly after relaxing or straightening your hair for years or have you just come from different salons and you don't feel like they have really embraced your curls?’” says Ashoori. “We have to see what the client wants and then we execute from that. Just knowing that there's a salon that actually helps them, instead of trying to change their hair, is making them more confident to come in. Once they get past a certain point, they’ll trust you. Developing that sort of relationship is really important with your clients.”

PHOTOS: GETTYSTOCK, RAISE HAND BY ADRIEN COQUET FROM THE NOUN PROJECT, GROUP BY SCOTT DUNLAP FROM THE NOUN PROJECT, ACTIVIST BY ADRIEN COQUET FROM THE NOUN PROJECT

Putting a Stop to Stigmas

Untapped Market

Business —

One thing we’ve all learned from living through this pandemic is how critical each and every client is to business success. As some salons have been temporarily closed for nearly six months, reopening your doors with a new perspective can be beneficial to both your clients and business. “Women with curly hair—Black women, specifically—spend more money on our hair yet we don’t have a market,” says Falaise. “My average haircut is 65 dollars, including a wash and no style, and my average ticket is about 120 dollars. We have such a love/ hate relationship with our hair that most women will try anything and everything. And when you sell products, it’s passive income; if you use a product at the sink and they smell it, feel it and see how it makes their hair look, they will buy it for sure. And we come to the salon religiously—I have clients who come in every two weeks without fail. Some don't even wash their hair at home because it’s too difficult to manage on their own.” “When you look at the amount of money that women of colour spend and the amount of representation you see, it doesn't align at all,” notes Ashoori. “I take this opportunity as a woman of colour who was able to open up a

business to represent us collectively and try to shift the narrative to be more inclusive of everyone.” While there’s a big concern over how many clients will be returning to salons after the lockdowns are over—especially if they’ve grown accustomed to DIY at-home colour—Falaise says that for curly-haired clients, the concern should be significantly lower. “I did have some clients that went to the drugstore to get their colour, but it was a very small amount. With curly hair, they won't venture too much because their hair is so fragile and they know it. They’re very particular about what they put on it,” she says. “If salons [are at risk of permanently closing due

to the pandemic], maybe it's because the business wasn't doing that great to begin with, and maybe there wasn’t a focus on diversity of clientele that would help them be solid right now.” As for the demand for hairstylists who know how to work with textured hair? “I opened a second salon during a pandemic so I must be doing something right,” says Falaise. “If I wanted to, I could open 10 salons in Montreal, Quebec City and Ottawa, but the problem is I don’t have enough hairstylists. It takes time for me to get them ready; I need a good six months after they come out of school, depending on their skills.”

Standing Up for Change To help equip hair school graduates for the future, Falaise started a petition that requests education on 3C to 4C hair types be mandatory in all Quebec beauty schools. “In the past, I’ve approached some schools about curly hair and had one lady tell me that students are learning to braid. I said that’s nice, but what about how to cut, care for and colour curly hair? I'm going to approach all of the [education ministries and schools] in Canada and present them with my project. It's a two-to-three-week program in which I teach the teachers, so that they can teach their students. I have people [across Canada and the United States] asking me to come teach them because people want to learn, and

it should be mandatory to learn the basic skills of working with curly hair in school.” Ashoori also started her own petition to include 3C to 4C education in Ontario. “It's a petition that’s growing every day. We just hit 10,000 signatures a couple weeks ago and the idea is to mandate the curriculum in hair schools to include all textures. At this point, we're going to keep pushing and contacting the ministry to set up a meeting and see how we can help them diversify what’s being taught. If the ministry doesn’t do something, I'm sure people are going to open up hair schools that teach on working with all textures. It's not about tipping the scale to one side— it's more about just balancing the scale at this point.” salonmagazine.ca / June 2021 57

Find out why award-winning hairstylist and global artistic director Michelle O’Connor says she’s the most fulfilled she’s ever been in her career and how she’s helping to promote change in the industry. BY VERONICA BOODHAN

Tell us about how you got your start in the beauty industry. I always had an interest in beauty but didn’t know I would be a hairstylist. I was in the dance world; I was a classically trained dancer from the time I was five until my early 20s. I had a tragedy happen—I lost my mom and began re-evaluating what I wanted to do. With my theatre and dance background, I was always intrigued by the costumes and characters. Wearing wigs and exaggerated makeup was a draw for me. I decided to go to hair school, but I knew I wouldn’t be content with just working in a salon behind the chair. I really wanted to do the things that seemed flashy and fun, like working on a set or on shoots. I got my license and at that time (in the early 2000s), stylists didn’t have Instagram, they had portfolios. I would go out and collaborate with aspiring photographers and makeup artists to create test shots that filled my portfolio. If you were lucky enough to get published, it would become a tear sheet in your portfolio. I learned that education and working with a manufacturer was a way to elevate your visibility and give you more opportunities. I think because I had such a disciplined background, I developed a very high standard of being trained in doing things over and over again until they were perfected. Hard work and perseverance stayed with me, and opportunities kept coming because of that. 58 salonmagazine.ca / June 2021

How did you gain the experience of working with all types of hair, including textured hair? Being a woman of colour—born to immigrant parents who are multiracial— I grew up seeing a lot of different hair types within my own family. At the end of hair school, I realized that you pick a salon you want to work in. And when I say you pick a salon, you make the decision if you’re going to work in a White salon or a Black salon. I remember feeling perplexed about it because I wanted to have exposure to all sides of it. Since I didn’t have a lot of experience with highly textured hair, I went to work in a natural hair salon in Fort Lauderdale that had high-profile clients in entertainment. It exposed me to a lot of different things. I spent about a year there, and really started to feel like I was missing out because I wasn’t doing precision cutting or colour applications beyond dark levels or covering grey. I then decided to go to a top “White” salon. I was the first person of colour to work in the salon and spent the next 10 years there. Not only did I get to perfect all of my colour and precision cutting skills, but I started to integrate Black and White clients. I think that’s the conundrum that a lot of salons right now are trying to figure out; how to really diversify, because when you’re talking about textured hair services, you’re

talking about lengthier services and things that take a few more steps. What was the turning point for you in your career? I ended up working for myself at a boutique salon for not even two years before I was presented with an opportunity from Nick Stenson, whom I’ve collaborated with on photo shoots over the years. He was being brought into JCPenney to help them rebrand to be more modern and elevated. He brought on a team that I was part of to help write education. I eventually became the creative director of the salon and did that for a while, and here I am today. I joined Matrix and won five NAHAs in various categories, ranging from texture to styling to editorial. As of late, it’s been being an advocate for any sort of diversity and inclusion conversations that are happening [in the industry].

PHOTOS: MICHELLE O’CONNOR; ROBERTO LIGRESTI COURTESY OF THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY ASSOCIATION

Profile — MICHELLE O’CONNOR

Leading by Example

ever been as fulfilled as I’ve been in the past year or two. I worked on a product line that Matrix is launching in the fall and it’s a full curl line that’s been in the works for a few years. It’s perfectly in sync with the need for brands to offer diverse ranges of products. I’m loving the education right now and looking at hair in a fully encompassed portfolio.

➣ Michelle O'Connor's 2020 NAHA-winning collection for Styling & Finishing.

Why do you think there’s been a resistance by some stylists to learn about working with textured hair? How do you address this when teaching? One word: Fear. I always thought it was weird when people would say, “Oh, I don't know how to do that.” You chose this as your field, so why is there a drop-off after wavy hair? It’s still just hair, and I think one of the things that I really try to create with my classes is an environment where stylists don't feel intimidated or afraid. Sometimes they don't know where to start or are overwhelmed or think it's scary and are afraid to say that because they don't want to be offensive. I think I create an environment where I allow them to tell me that it's scary and we can dissect it. It’s about demystifying these age-old concepts about styling and haircare rituals. Removing any stigmas associated with any type of rituals that are different from what you think they should be. I don't even like to say that there’s a resistance to it—even though there is—because there are some hairstylists running towards it and they’re so excited. What do you most enjoy about competing in hair competitions? They are absolutely nerve-racking, but they are pieces of me that will live on long after I'm gone. They are what have given

me the voice that I have today; the voice to command a room, command respect and command people to listen, comes as a result of winning those awards. You put your heart, soul and everything into creating full-on collections and share that part of yourself with people and helping inspire others that are looking to go into that genre. But the biggest and probably most fulfilling thing that those accolades have done is stretch me as an artist and provide me with the platform that I have and am immensely enjoying today. I knew that when I was winning NAHAs, I was representing a side of the industry that gets very little recognition; to see a Black face on the stage five times in five years was my way of saying, “You guys can do it, too. Let's be a part of the bigger pro beauty world.” As the global artistic director for Matrix, what do you most enjoy about your role? When I decided to join Matrix and became artistic director, I wanted to let other Black women know that there was a Black girl on a main stage of a major manufacturer and to pay attention. For Matrix, I trained a “Texture Squad” that was their first foray into texture hair education. I feel like my career for the past 20 years has been preparing me for this. I probably haven’t

As a woman of colour in the beauty industry, did you experience any challenges in your journey and how did you overcome them? For me, handling any challenges in a way that demonstrated personal integrity was always important to me. I was trying to correct people along the way, so if I knew someone said something that was inappropriate or that didn't sit right with me, I was on a mission to correct it, but in a space of educating. I always felt the need to show up extra professionally and to be impeccable with my dress, speech and talent. I knew that there was an expectation that I needed to live up to and exceed, so that in some way, others that look like me could also have exposure to those same opportunities. I always did it in a way that was very dignified and still left people with the impression that this woman is a class act, and I knew I needed to leave that impression because it wasn’t only my impression to leave. What’s next for you? I’m looking forward to continuing to partner with brands, and somewhere down the line I would love to be able to explore my own products and tools. One of the things I’m working on right now is curriculum as it pertains to cosmetology school level. I’m in negotiations with some of the companies that put out the content and material for stylists in school, and am adding texture hair education to that. It took me 20 years to get to this place where I can actually say, “Wow, I'm able to have a voice in this movement that's happening.” This is a shift that will be a defining moment in the beauty industry and my name will be amongst the people leading the charge in this conversation.

salonmagazine.ca / June 2021 59

Interiors — ONYX & IVORY

Bottle Service From its contemporary design to its bar-style setup, this Calgary-based salon knows how to deliver the ultimate salon experience. BY SAMI CHAZONOFF

For Po Chau, the owner of Onyx & Ivory, a uniquely designed salon located in Calgary’s Inglewood neighbourhood, having a bright, open-concept space to share their team’s love of hair with the community was top of mind. Unfortunately, their debut was shortlived as their doors opened in November 2019 and just four months later, the salon was forced to temporarily close due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Despite being open for such a short time, the new salon still had plenty to offer clients, from their extremely friendly and welcoming staff to their stylish layout with beautiful fixtures and furnishings. And then there’s their coffee, tea and assorted beverages bar. “Our bar is a showstopper,” says Chau. “I haven’t been in any salon in Calgary that has a bar setup like we do, and I really wanted that connection with clients, where we serve them a drink and talk to them like in a lounge.”

60 salonmagazine.ca / June 2021

PHOTOS: LINDSAY NICHOLS, BLOCK INC, RYAN MURPHY CONSTRUCTION

Make Yourself at Home Functionality was important to Chau when envisioning her own salon, which she’d been dreaming of since she was just three years old. Wanting everything to fit and flow, from the styling and washing stations to retail display to the colour bar, she also wanted to make sure clients felt welcome throughout the salon, which would end up doubling as a gathering and social space. With the help of her interior design team at Block Interior Design, Chau was able to create her dream space: a contemporary and modern salon with a nice flow. “Yin and yang is a thing for me,” she says. “So having a proper flow in the salon was very important. ➤ salonmagazine.ca / June 2021 61

I wanted it to be like a house where you walk in and sit and have a drink.” By creating a space that balances a high-end vibe with a welcoming staff, Chau says the result is a combination of luxury and comfort. “In most salons, you’re stopped in front of the door for reception and I don’t like that feeling. I want you to come in and enjoy yourself, just like you would at home.” Best Assets When asked about her salon’s best feature, Chau can’t help but compliment her staff. “The talent is what sets us apart from other salons,” she says. “Darryl, my business partner, and I have over 50 years of combined experience in the industry, and everyone on our team is so talented and work so well together. They’re each able to express their own creativity and execute their own work while helping each other out and picking up any slack.”

PHOTOS: LINDSAY NICHOLS, BLOCK INC, RYAN MURPHY CONSTRUCTION

Hello and Goodbye As a new business owner, Chau has had an understandably hard time during the pandemic. “It impacted us quite a bit,” she says. “I care about my team so much and as a leader, it was really hard to see my staff go through this process. That said, the team held so well together and supported each other so much. COVID has definitely impacted us but our great staff and clients have been so supportive. We survived it and now feel like we can survive anything.”

62 salonmagazine.ca / June 2021

DETAILS Opened November 2019 DESIGN Block Interior Design Inc. SPACE 1,268 square feet TEAM 7 stylists 1 receptionist BRANDS Oribe La Biosthetique Pulp RIot WEBSITE onyxandivory.ca INSTAGRAM @onyxandivorysalon

salonmagazine.ca / June 2021 63

Events —

L’Oréal Professionnel’s Style & Color Trophy 2020 L’Oréal Professional hosted a virtual rendition of their Style & Color Trophy 2020, a night of celebrating Canadian beauty, creativity and innovation. In addition to handing out seven different awards to talented beauty professionals across Canada, the event featured the premiere of Guylaine Martel’s New Nature collection and a Master Elite live competition featuring some of the brand’s top ambassadors. When: May 2, 2021

Divided into four parts that included a show, collection presentation and colour demonstrations with formulas and tips from their talented Canadian artists and educators, Schwarzkopf’s virtual event was filled with inspiration. #BeIGORA was led by Canadian education manager, Susan Boccia, and North American colour director and international ambassador, Rossa Jurenas. For the #BeINSPIRED segment, Jurenas was joined by Essential Looks artist Robin LaChance, who showcased the brand’s spring/summer 2021 Essential Looks Trend Collection. The second half of the event consisted of two segments—#BeVIBRANT, featuring colour expert Josie Vilay, who showcased and discussed her creation of vibrant looks, followed by a live Q&A with Boccia. During #BeTRANSFORMED, balayage expert Shawna Russell demonstrated ways of tackling in-salon colour corrections. Russell and Boccia continued the conversation with a live Q&A and answered colour-related questions from the virtual attendees. When: May 3, 2021

64 salonmagazine.ca / June 2021

PHOTOS: SALON STAFF, PHOREST SALON SOFTWARE

Schwarzkopf Professional Canada’s #BeIGORA Color Event

Events —

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For the Blonde Ambition collection, Darren Ambrose, Briana Cisneros, Jordanna Cobella, Jayson Gray, Kim Sang Hee, Nicole Revish and Dmitry Vinokurov collaborated on a showstopping collection that explored the versatility of the blonde palette on a diverse range of models.

Highlights from Wella’s WE Create Virtual Event! Wella Professionals recently hosted WE Create, its first-ever virtual global hairdressing event featuring educational classes, how-to demonstrations and new collections from some of the brand’s top international artists. With more than four hours of inspirational, educational and business-related content, the event was designed to help hair professionals further excel at their craft and to succeed in their professional and personal lives. The event’s online platform was formatted similar to that of a TV show, consisting of two channels—WE Inspire and WE Transform—that were broadcasting original and never-before-seen content and collections. The broadcast opened with a welcome message from Wella Company’s new CEO Annie Young Scrivner, and featured the announcement of the winners of the 2021 International Trendvision Awards (ITVA).

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Making Moves

| ITVA Color Artist finalist Lauren Wilde of Rose and Onyx Hair in St. Albert, Alta., proudly represented for Canada.

— Global ambassador Romeu Felipe showcased his Brazillian Illuminage technique to transform his model’s look to the ultimate cool blonde shade.

The brand’s vice president of global education, Lara Zunica, and chief marketing officer, Laura Simpson, announced the 2021 ITVA winners.

Phorest Salon Software, a global leader in salon and spa management systems based in Dublin, Ireland, is continuing to expand its reach in Canada by appointing Alain Audet as their Canadian General Manager. With more than 20 years of industry experience—he was the former executive director for the Allied Beauty Association (ABA Canada)—Audet brings a plethora of professional beauty expertise and knowledge to Phorest. In his new position, he will support the company’s organic growth within Canada and develop the market with a more Canadian focus.

Scoop —

When: April 25, 2021

In the World Class Color segment, Sonya Dove, Michal Bielecki, Robert Eaton, Hide Saiga, Abby Smith and Renya Xydis worked on a stunning brand-new collection that took viewers on a journey of their individual interpretations of blending light and shade to create the perfect colour for each of their models.

salonmagazine.ca / June 2021 65

With more and more of us wanting to promote diversity in salons and the beauty industry, we spoke with two consulting firms for their tips on implementing inclusion practices in the workplace. The lack of diversity in the professional beauty industry is real, and the only way to make true progress is to recognize the challenge and be open to finding solutions that will help make our industry a more welcoming space for all. Diversity and inclusion consulting firms help coach and train organizations across a wide range of sectors—beauty included—on how to implement newand-improved practices and policies. “We try to get a pulse of the culture of the organization and understand the policies and practices that are already in place—and whether they are well understood and implemented throughout,” says Anne-Marie Pham, executive director for Canadian Centre for Diversity and Inclusion. “We also try to help them understand the demographic of the organization, in terms of their diversity, and see if there is potentially any under-representation. We also help employers understand how their employees are feeling.” “We help organizations look at what their internal experiences with equity, diversity and inclusion are, to make sure that all team members feel seen and heard, and experience a sense of belonging while having opportunities to succeed,” says Ritu Bhasin, founder of bhasin consulting inc. “We also look at their external interactions with customers, clients and stakeholders to make sure they are being inclusive.”

Where to Start

“First and foremost, organizations should have respect in their workplace policy and not tolerate harassment or discrimination of any kind, but we encourage them to go beyond that.

66 salonmagazine.ca / June 2021

We want organizations to have a diversity and inclusion policy, which looks at a number of areas within the organization.” — Anne-Marie Pham, executive director for Canadian Centre for Diversity and Inclusion “While we’re committed to being good [in our intentions], our brains are unfortunately wired to engage in unconscious biases. As a result, we tend to gravitate to people who are in, what we would call, our ‘in groups’ (people like us) and avoid or are harsher in the treatment of people in our ‘out groups.’ Because of this and given that being inclusive is not an inherent skill, we must be very mindful and thoughtful about learning how to make [inclusion and diversity] more prominent in our workspaces.” — Ritu Bhasin, founder of bhasin consulting inc.

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Have you run the interview process through an inclusion lens to ensure that you’ve minimized the likelihood of bias?

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Have your interviewers had inclusion training so that they’re interrupting the biases that may come up in the recruitment process?

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What are some potential biases that you may not be aware of in your workplace?

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What are some of the microaggressions that people may be experiencing?

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What can you do to address any of those biases and microaggressions?

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What can you do to be active allies in the workplace?

“One of the areas that needs work across the board is the mainstreaming of beauty products and services that are targeted to one specific market. While it’s fantastic that there are individuals with specialization, sometimes they may be working in isolation of the broadbased salon and beauty industry. It’s about opening the doors and welcoming these specialists into the industry. Finding a way for people to not think of themselves as ‘us and them’ but ‘we’re all in this together and we’re here to support each other.’” — Anne-Marie Pham, executive director for Canadian Centre for Diversity and Inclusion

Level Up

When hiring new staff for your salon or brand, Bhasin and Pham say there are a few things to keep in mind to make the hiring process more inclusive while also addressing challenges that may already exist within your organization. Some considerations to remember: —

Do you have a diversity of talent that’s in line with market availability in the industry? If not, what are some of the gaps?

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What are some of your hiring goals to close those gaps?

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Are you broadly recruiting so that candidates from varied cultural communities can easily apply?

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Have you decided on what your selection criteria will be and ensured that it isn’t exclusionary?

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Who is doing the application review and is that person aware of their biases as it relates to people from varied cultural communities?

Anne-Marie Pham, MPA, is the executive director for the Canadian Centre for Diversity and Inclusion, an organization that provides consulting on diversity, inclusion, equity and human rights, to companies and brands across Canada. Ritu Bhasin is an awardwinning life coach, motivational speaker, anti-racism educator and founder of bhasin consulting inc., a Torontobased consulting firm providing equity, diversity and inclusion training to a range of companies and organizations.

TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, SAMI CHAZONOFF, PHOTO: GETTY STOCK, CANADIAN CENTER FOR DIVERSITY AND INCLUSION, BHASIN CONSULTING INC.

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