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SHADES EQ TONERS & NEW BRIGHT LIGHTS TECHNIQUES
NEW SHADES EQ VIOLET BLUE TONERS All rights reserved. 2019
ANTI-YELLOW + ANTI-ORANGE, ULTRA COOL #BRIGHTLIGHTS
Become an anti-brass Master with the new Shades EQ Violet Blue family. These new shades provide dual-spectrum brass correction, combining the anti-yellow reflect of Violet with the anti-orange power of Blue for an ultra cool toning result. Show us your coolest toning tips by tagging @Redken #GlossItUp #ShadesEQ
OUR PUREST COLOR EVER Permanent color with
>> PURE, BALANCED COLOR RESULTS WITH NATURAL DEPTH AND SHINE. >> SIGNIFICANTLY LESS HAIR DAMAGE, COLOR AFTER COLOR.1 >> ME+ TECHNOLOGY, CONSIDERABLY REDUCES THE RISK OF DEVELOPING A NEW ALLERGY TO HAIR COLOR.2
AVAILABLE IN 136 SHADES
#ASKFORWELLA 1 2
Versus previous Koleston Perfect. Valid for Koleston Perfect with Pure Balance Technology. FOR PEOPLE NOT ALLERGIC TO HAIR COLORANTS. Although the risk of developing new allergy is reduced, there remains a risk of allergic reaction that can be severe. Always ask your stylist to perform an allergy alert test 48h before each coloration. Strictly follow safety instructions and consult www.wella.com. If you have ever experienced an allergic reaction to hair colorants, you should not color. ME+ is present in specific shades of Pure Naturals, Rich Naturals, Vibrant Reds, Special Blonde and Deep Browns of the Koleston Perfect brand.
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31 F E AT U R E
Your Go-To Wedding Style Guide
The bridal business is booming. Enveloping cuts, colour, styling and beyond, we break down the ways you can maximize your bridal services to help your clients—and your bottom line.
36 F E AT U R E
Our Natural Environment
44 A LT I N I S M A I L I , M A RC A N T O N I , U . K .
With more salons and brands looking to decrease their carbon footprint, we get some tips on how you, too, can improve yours.
39 I N S P I R AT I O N
“Our job is to push the boundaries and always create something new and exciting. Beauty will save the world.”
RUSH Artistic Team; Michelle Finlayson; Altin Ismaili; Damien Carney; Erin Fernandes; NAHA Canadian winners
—ANGELO SEMINARA, INTERNATIONAL ARTISTIC DIRECTOR FOR DAVINES HAIR: RUSH ARTISTIC TEAM, U.K., MAKEUP: KRISTINA VIDIC, STYLING: ROBERT MORRISON, PHOTO: JACK EAMES salonmagazine.ca / April 2019 9
C O N T E S S A GA L L E RY
For her first-ever photo shoot, this small-town hairstylist merged her family roots with award-winning inspiration to express her own style.
16 L E T ’ S G E T D I G I TA L
We have so much more for you! Check out our website for even more of the content you know and love.
The Business of the Environment
W H AT ’ S N E W
Spring has officially sprung! And there’s no better time than now to start spring cleaning your product offerings, with the latest in care, colour, styling and finishing innovations.
42 CONTE SSA 2019 F I N A L I S T, CA N A D I A N H A IRSTYLIST OF THE YEA R , MICHELLE F I N L AYS O N , F R E E L A N C E , E D M O N T O N , A LTA .
We spoke with two ecofriendly salon owners about the benefits going green can have on your business.
61 P RO F I L E
City of Angels
A candid conversation with editorial and celebrity hairstylist, Matthew Collins.
62 INTER IORS
50 2019 NAHA CA N A D I A N WINNERS
Find out why being more environmentally friendly is always on the mind of this Montreal-based salon owner.
64 W H AT ’ S H A P P E N I N G
Events + Scoop
66 SA LON STOR IE S
The Buzz on Being Sustainable
Creative geniuses Angelo Seminara and Anna Pacitto get real about sustainable beauty.
10 salonmagazine.ca / April 2019
A DREAMY PLAY ON PASTELS ROSE GOLD
Tag us @paulmitchellpro and #DemiMutedMetallics to share your looks!
Editor’s Letter —
When was the last time you looked at the ingredient list on your favourite box of cereal or bag of chips? If you’re like me, maybe you haven’t historically been the most mindful consumer. But if you’re turning over a new leaf and are determined to pay attention to what goes in and on your body, you’re in good company. For years, the purposeful living approach has been gaining steam, and chances are you’ve noticed its arrival in your salon. Case in point: Unlike in years gone by, clients are going beyond simply asking about the brands carried in your salon. Today’s informed consumers prefer to scour ingredient lists and often request specific products based on their impact on their body, health and the environment. In this issue, we focus on giving you more ways to help your business thrive in this Reduce, Reuse, Recycle world. Despite the fact that most communities have comprehensive recycling and composting programs in place, not all businesses think alike. Whether catering to clients who support carbon footprint-conscious businesses or those looking for specialized products, salons have an opportunity to cultivate business in fresh, new ways. This is a time of tremendous opportunity, a time when you can (and should) try new approaches, and make changes that will shape your salon now and in the future. Who knows—making key changes may even propel you (and your clients) in a whole new direction.
Tor onto Barber
37 ce 19 and Beauty Supply Sin
12 salonmagazine.ca / April 2019
Anna Lee Boschetto Editor-in-Chief
PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP: DIANA CARREIRO
THE STORY OF AN ORIGINAL Moroccanoil Treatment delivers unparalleled shine, softness and nourishment. The original all-in-one essential that stands the test of time.
ONE BR AND: A WORLD OF OIL-INFUSED BE AUT Y MoroccanoilProfessionals.com
Salon Magazine ISSN 1197-1495, VOLUME 28, ISSUE 3 SALONMAGAZINE.CA EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Anna Lee Boschetto email@example.com
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It’s Easy Being Green
Laura Dunphy Publisher
14 salonmagazine.ca / April 2019
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PHOTOGRAPH BY ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP BY DIANACARREIRO
Today, we’ve never had more green options. You can’t go around the corner without seeing some sort of message on green or environmental issues. An indicator of growth in this category is watching the numerous best practices by manufacturers and new product development. For a long time there was a question about product efficacy. Could products have green attributes and still be effective? However the latest generation seems to be hitting the mark. For me the big issue is the plastic debris, which has been found floating in our oceans and cover large swaths (the one between California and Hawaii is the size of the state of Texas). At home, I’m shopping for goods with minimal plastic or ensuring it is recyclable. It’s shocking how easy it is to reduce the amount of waste and for that reason I’m thrilled to see Kevin.Murphy use ocean plastics for their packaging. If there’s ever a time to adopt green practices in your salon, it’s now. Studies have found that one third of consumers buy brands based on their social and environmental impact, and it’s also well documented that the majority of millennials are concerned about the environment. As business owners and managers it’s our responsibility to be good stewards, and salons play an important role is the community. As I’ve discovered, putting a green plan in place doesn’t have to be complicated. Get your staff involved. As you read through this issue, we hope you will be inspired to get on board—big or small!
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The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher. From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail helpdesk@ subscriptions.salon. Our privacy officer is Adrian Holland. This project has been made possible [in part] by the Government of Canada.
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Illuminate the aisle with classic colors.
NEW ROMANTIC SHADES.
CND, SHELLAC LUXE, SHELLAC and VINYLUX are trademarks of Creative Nail Design, Inc. Â©2019 Creative Nail Design, Inc. Nail artist: Mette Steenberg.
Rocking the Runway Get inspired and find out how to recreate looks that rocked the runway at fashion weeks around the world.
Enter to Win! #PSA! Want a chance to win a prize pack from Kinder Curls, plus a $100 Amazon* gift card? Look for this graphic on our Instagram page (@salonmagazine) for details. *DISCLAIMER: THIS CONTEST IS IN NO WAY SPONSORED BY OR AFFILIATED WITH AMAZON.
16 salonmagazine.ca / April 2019
Check out our #Contessa2019 Q&A series on SalonMagazine.ca to get to know the winners and find the inspiration you may need for your next collection.
PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: HAIR: DANIELLE BARBEY, MAKEUP: LAUREN MATHIS, STYLING: BERNARD CONNOLLY, PHOTOS: RICHARD MILES; GEORGE PIMENTEL; HAIR/STYLING: MICHELLE SCHLOTTMAN, MAKEUP: KELSEY GRAY, PHOTOS: BABAK; KINDER CURLS
C O LO R PI PIGG M EN T RREM CO EM OV ER
The first and only professional non-oxidative, vegan color remover. AVAILABLE AT:
AND OTHER PROFESSIONAL DISTRIBUTORS GLOBALLY
Formulated without gluten, sulfate surfactants and parabens. • MalibuC.com • Follow Us
Make the IT List! Vote for your favourite products for a chance to win 2 tickets to the Contessa Awards gala on Sunday, November 10, 2019 in Toronto!
READER’S CHOICE AWARDS
NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. Contest sponsored and administered by Salon Communications Inc. (“Salon”). Contest open to Canadian residents, who are of age of majority in province/territory of residence at time of entry. To enter, you must complete entry form located online at ReadersChoice.SalonMagazine.ca. Limit of 1 entry per entrant. Contest begins at 9 a.m. EST on April 15, 2019 and ends at 5 p.m. EST on April 29, 2019 (“Contest Period”). One random draw from all eligible entries will be conducted by Salon at approximately 12 pm EST on April 30, 2019 in Toronto, Ontario. Odds of entry being selected depend on number of eligible entries received during Contest Period. Subject to fulfilling all Official Contest Rules & Regulations, including mathematical skill-testing question and signing a release, the selected entrant will be eligible to win two (2) tickets to the 2019 Contessa Gala, plus overnight accommodation in Toronto in a double occupancy room at the Westin Harbour Castle, approximate retail value CDN $600. Airfare not included. Certain restrictions and conditions apply. Complete rules available online at: salonmagazine.ca/rca. Contest void where prohibited or restricted by law.
GO FROM APRIL SHOWERS TO EMBRACING HAIR’S SUPERPOWERS WITH THE LATEST CARE, COLOUR, STYLING AND FINISHING PRODUCTS.
PHOTO: SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL
➣ In “Creating Tomorrow’s Hair Today!”, Schwarzkopf Professional’s Essential Looks collection for spring/summer 2019, the looks feature some of the seasons’ top hairstyling trends, including undone athleisure, ’80s-inspired volume and edgy youthful looks (including this one by Canada’s very own Rossa Jurenas, Schwarzkopf Professional’s North American colour director). The collection also provides a sneak peek of the brand’s tbh - true beautiful honest, a new colour line designed to enhance hair’s natural beauty, which will be launched later this year.
salonmagazine.ca / April 2019 19
Get quick natural-looking colour with Schwarzkopf Professional’s new Igora Color10 shades.
Get bold and beautiful colour with Paul Mitchell’s The Demi Muted Metallics. For clients that are Goldilocks when it comes to their hair (pastels are too light and metallics are too strong), we’ve found the answer. These three new shades—Rose Gold, Lavender and Silver—have been carefully diffused to deliver a subtle, opalescent shine. As an ammonia-free, demi-permanent colour gloss, they condition hair, add shine, and can be used individually or intermixed with other The Demi shades for endless options.
It’s time to skip those long colourprocessing times! Whether it’s a full application, root coverage or basic touch-up, Schwarzkopf Professional’s Color10 contains the brand’s Amino Acid Carrier Technology, which accelerates the time it takes for colour pigments to penetrate the hair shaft. With the addition of six new natural-looking, cool tones, Color10 now has a range of 36 shades that deliver coverage and care for colour that’s out of this world.
Twice as Nice Find out how two of Redken’s latest products can help shake up your dry-styling routine.
TO LEARN ABOUT TWO NEW IN-SALON SERVICES DESIGNED FOR IGORA COLOR10, VISIT SALONMAGAZINE.CA
20 salonmagazine.ca / April 2019
Dry Shampoo Powder 02 Powered by charcoal, one of beauty’s beloved ingredients, this nonaerosol powder absorbs impurities and excess oils to refresh hair, allowing you to extend a range of styles. Dry Shampoo Paste 05 Merging the finesse of a dry shampoo with the flexibility of a styling paste, this texturizing hybrid allows you to create reworkable hold while absorbing oil, refreshing hair and adding overall texture.
PHOTO: PAUL MITCHELL, REDKEN, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL
Hairlines — NEWS
F U LL SPEED A H E A D
Corset by The Blonds Modeled by Jan Arnold
CND is a trademark of Creative Nail Design, Inc. ÂŠ2019 Creative Nail Design, Inc.
New Look Hairlines — NEWS
Discover the new Volume Solution range from milk_shake. This three-piece product line just got a makeover! Moving away from the brand’s signature yellow and white packaging, Volume Solution combines a robin’s-egg blue and white, creating a colour palette that's easy to distinguish from the rest of the brand’s product offerings.
READER’S CHOICE AWARDS
Does Your Favourite Have What IT Takes? Get ready for Salon’s 8th annual Reader’s Choice Awards!
Formulated with naturally sourced ingredients, such as sugar cane derivatives, milk proteins, quinoa proteins, rice proteins and organic fruit extracts, to cleanse, condition and strengthen hair.
Whether it’s your go-to product, brand or tool, we’re asking you (yes, you!) to help yours make the IT list. Beginning on April 15, you can cast your vote in any or all of our 25 categories. Plus, you’ll have a chance to win two tickets to the 31st annual Contessa Awards, plus hotel accommodations! NEW THIS YEAR! Appliance Brand is now Appliance, which means you’ll be voting specifically for a brand’s electrical tool (used to cut or style hair). Styling Tool is now Cutting/Styling Tool, which means we’re opening up the category to brushes, combs and other non-electrical hair tools.
T O O L B OX
Digital temperature display, ranging from 280°F to 450°F
Croc The New Classic
Ceramic heat provides consistent heat and instant recovery |
— DON WYATT, NATIONAL DIRECTOR OF SHOWS AND EDUCATION FOR DANNYCO PROFESSIONAL
| One-inch, black titanium semi-floating plates for smooth glide, which also reduce static and increase shine
22 salonmagazine.ca / April 2019
Ventilation system allows for the release of excess high heat
Auto shut-off after 30 minutes of non-use
PHOTO: Z.ONE CONCEPT, HOTHEADS, KEUNE, DANNYCO PROFESSIONAL
“The first thing I noticed was how comfortable this flat iron felt. There was less stress in my hand while using it, and I felt I had much more control. It also gave me the results I wanted much faster and with less passes over the hair.”
Keeping it Classic Hairlines — NEWS
Get seamless blending with natural cool and warm shades from Hotheads Hair Extensions. Who said extensions can’t look natural? Hotheads Hair Extensions is shattering extension myths with their 10 new tape-in shades. With three cool ash tones, five new natural Colormelts and two platinum-rooted shades, the pieces can be used individually or blended with other Hotheads extensions (including The Band!).
Teamwork Makes the Dream Work Planning on working together for a Contessa collection? Learn how to maximize your entries without breaking any rules. We know how creative photoshoots can bring teams together. And whether your focus is on hair, colour, makeup or nails, we want to encourage you and your team to showcase your work by submitting it to the 31st annual Contessa Awards! With entries opening soon, find out how to make the most of your submission(s): 1 We’ve opened up our prestigious Canadian Hairstylist of the Year category to allow entrants to enter photos from that category into Canadian Colourist of the Year. Yes, that means what you think! If a hairstylist and colourist work on a collection together, the hairstylist can enter the photos into Canadian Hairstylist of the Year, and the colourist can enter those same photos into Canadian Colourist of the Year. 2 Entrants cannot enter the same collections in the same category. This means every collection entered into the same category of the Contessa Awards must have a unique look and feel (a different cut and/or style of hair, makeup, background, wardrobe and accessory styling). For example, Entrant One and Entrant Two worked on a collection together for Texture Hairstylist of the Year. If Entrant One enters this category, Entrant Two cannot enter the same category using photos from the same photoshoot, even if the photos are not identical. The collections entered must have a unique look and feel. 3 Makeup artists and nail artists can enter their work, even if it’s part of another entrant’s Contessa collection. For example, if a hairstylist and nail artist worked together on a collection for Elite Master Hairstylist of the Year, the nail artist can still enter the Nail Artist of the Year category. P.S. Our Canadian Salon Team of the Year category only requires two or more people to enter (as long as they are working in the same Canadian-based salon). Big or small, all teams are welcome! VISIT SALONMAGAZINE.CA FOR THE FULL LIST OF CONTESSA 2020 RULES & REGULATIONS.
Blonde Bombshell Customize your lightening services with Freedom Blonde by Keune. This clay-based lightener combines all the functionality of a lightener with the flexibility you need to create freehand and balayage looks. When used together with its developer, the product activates FreedomFuse, a sticky polymer technology devloped by Keune to offer superior adhesion.
salonmagazine.ca / April 2019 23
Reduce plastic and waste with L’Oréal Professionnel’s new haircare range. Source Essentielle is the brand’s new natural and vegan haircare formulated line with 80 to 100 per cent naturally derived ingredients, and is divided into four types: Normal Hair, Dry Hair, Coloured Hair, and Delicate Scalp. And that’s not all! The shampoo bottles are refillable in the salon, which reduces the amount of plastic used by 30 per cent. Each bottle features a square design to maximize product capacity while also minimizing the amount of plastic used.
206,392 lbs of paper and plastics 109,512 lbs of foil and colour tubes 63,180 lbs of hair clippings 42,122 lbs of hair colour
Revitalize hair from the insideout with Müster & Dikson’s Everygreen Balancing range. We all know our inner health can affect our outer beauty. Everygreen’s Balancing Purifying Shampoo and Purifying Treatment have been designed to balance hair’s sebum (oils) while cleansing and refreshing the scalp. Made in Italy, Everygreen products are free of parabens, silicones, mineral oil, colourants, SLS and SLES.
M A K I N G WAV E S
Kevin.Murphy shows the ocean some love.
Did You Know?
Here's the amount* of waste hair salons in North America produce on the daily.
STR IK ING A BA L A NCE
A G R E E N S TAT E O F M I N D
Moroccanoil partners with Green Circle Salons. With more salons looking to do their part to help the environment, Moroccanoil has upped the ante by partnering with Green Circle Salons to implement its recycling and sustainability program in all Moroccanoil Loyalty Salons. Now, the salons will be using environmentally friendly practices to dispose of hair clippings, colour, colour tubes, paper, plastics, foil and aerosol cans.
*According to Green Circle Salons
24 salonmagazine.ca / April 2019
With more and more brands going greener, Kevin.Murphy continues to lead the pack as it becomes the first beauty brand to use 100 per cent recycled ocean plastics in its packaging. The recycled bottles are set to debut this summer and are projected to save the planet from more than 360 tonnes of new plastic per year.
Powered by Plants Get conscious care with La Biosthétique’s Botanique Pure Nature. This certified organic and vegan haircare range contains beloved beauty ingredients like ginseng, ginkgo, jojoba, aloe vera, mint and lavender. Divided into three categories—Gentle, Balancing and Intense—the products can be customized for your client’s individual haircare needs.
PHOTO: L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, MÜSTER & DIKSON, LA BIOSTHETIQUE
Hairlines — THINK GREEN
Straight from the Source
SHOR E THING
Hairlines — NAILS
CELEB NA IL LOOKS
CND We’re ready to jet set with the Sweet Escape collection, featuring bold pops of colour like Soulmate.
ORLY The Radiant Optimism collection has us chasing the sun with this vibrant Positive Coral-ation shade. 5
Morgan Taylor It’s all about the flower power in The Color of Petals collection, featuring the light nude crème I Feel Flower-Ful. 7
Rocking the Red Carpet Glam squads were in full force this awards season, delivering head-to-toe looks with plenty of sparkle and shine. Here are a few of the dazzling digits that caught our eye. 1 For the Golden Globes, actress Lili Reinhart opted for a nude shade with a hint of Swarovski. 2 Will & Grace star Debra Messing wore a gunmetal holographic glitter mani, which included ring-finger accent nails complete with a diamond (yes, a real one). 3 At the Critics’ Choice Awards, Julia Roberts took a modern take on the French manicure with metallic gold, featuring asymmetrical black tips. 4 For the Grammy Awards, actress Anna Kendrick wore a blue and pink metallic mani, featuring feathered strokes to accent her pink feather dress. 26 salonmagazine.ca / April 2019
5 Singer Dua Lipa sported 3D nails complete with glitter, gold and silver studs for an ultraornate look. 6 Cardi B always goes big and bold with her nails, so it’s no surprise that the singer rocked coffin-shaped nude versions adorned with Swarovski crystals. 7 Singer Andra Day showed her wild side with leopard-print-on-blush-pink nails with sparkly cross accents. 8 At the Academy Awards, model and red carpet host Ashley Graham donned a baby pink negative-space mani. 9 Jennifer Lopez shimmered on the red carpet with a golden nude metallic mani.
Artistic Nail Design We're feeling inspired by the dreamy turquoise Don’t Hate, Create! from the Paint My Passion collection.
China Glaze The Arrangement collection has us stopping to smell the flowers with This is Ranunculus.
PHOTO: INSTAGRAM, CND, ORLY, GELISH, ENTITY, MORGAN TAYLOR, ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN, CHINA GLAZE
➣ Hairlines — NAILS
Yes, you really do need these newly sized CND care products in your nail kit.
Let’s face it, your nail kit can only hold so many polish bottles. From base coats and top coats to just about every colour of the rainbow, it can be a bit difficult to try to sort through it all. CND’s new Essential Care Pens have packaged two of their beloved care products—Solar Oil (a moisturizing nail and cuticle oil) and RescueRxx (a repairing daily keratin treatment)—into slim and convenient pens that make caring for nails easier than ever for you (and your clients).
Indulgent Infusion Get glowing skin and nails with Entity’s Ultra Hydrating Argan Oil line. This four-piece line includes Revitalizing Cuticle Drops, Daily Replenishing Lotion, Restorative Massage Butter and Renewal Gel Scrub to provide a decadent upgrade to your nail services. Formulated with argan oil, which contains essential fatty acids, anti-aging antioxidants, and natural anti-inflammatory properties, the products help repair dry, sensitive skin and contain a Moroccan citrusy scent.
Displays battery and power levels, plus LED countdown |
Features a five, 30 and 60-second setting
| Contains Gelish’s Comfort Cure technology to prevent heat spikes
Intelligent Power Assist technology offers a consistent battery-powered cure
Take curing on the go with Gelish’s 18G Unplugged High Performance LED Light. Tired of being chained to your workstation? It’s time to “unplug” with this cordless lamp, which features an LED light powered by an LG lithium battery. With all the power of a traditional LED lamp, this powerhouse tool gives you the flexibility to move around your salon, and can open the door to you being able to offer on-demand, mobile services.
salonmagazine.ca / April 2019 27
Hairlines — COLOUR
➣ FIND OUT HOW ONE OF 2019’S HOTTEST COLOUR TRENDS CAN HELP YOU EXPAND YOUR COLOURSERVICE CLIENTELE.
TRICKS OF THE TRADE
You don't need to be a nail artist to have heard of the term “negative space.” If you haven’t heard, well, you’re late to the party because it’s been a big beauty trend for years. It's become so popular, in fact, that like contouring, strobing and other beauty trends that have crossed over into hair, negative space is about to have its moment. The Lowdown “It’s putting the focus on the actual base colour—whether it’s your client’s natural colour or an artificial base colour,” says Eryn Wall, a Wella Top Artist and owner of The Headroom in St. John’s, Nfld. “Typically, there are highlights around the face, but it’s really about letting the base colour shine, with a subtle, not intense, contrast.” Although the freehand technique used to achieve this look is not new, understanding the verbiage is. Since negative space emphasizes the base colour, the placement of the highlights is key. “I would do thin highlighting around the face, and if I want to accent it a little bit more, I would go in a little lighter on the ends,” explains Julio Rodriguez, artistic director at Valentini Hair Design & Spa in Guelph, Ont. “But if you really want it to be negative space, it has to showcase that [base] colour, so you have to leave a lot of that colour in.” 28 salonmagazine.ca / April 2019
Go for a Highlift “Sometimes I won’t even go in with a lightener, I’ll go in with a highlift colour because I have more control and can get some really beautiful caramel tones on a brunette without it looking too light. On a blonde, it just helps to brighten up the colour.” — Julio Rodriguez Matrix SoColor Ultra Blondes
Wella Koleston Perfect Me+
Keeping it Gentle “More clients are becoming ingredient conscious. With Koleston Perfect Me+, there is a 60-times less chance that someone will develop an allergy from hair colour. It’s my go-to for base colour. The visibility is beautiful, the shades have more shine and the hair looks really healthy and vibrant.” — Eryn Wall
TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN; PHOTOS: JULIO RODRIGUEZ; Z.ONE CONCEPT; WELLA PROFESSIONALS, MATRIX
Negative Space Hair?
“THERE’S LESS MAINTENANCE BECAUSE YOU’RE FOCUSING ON THE BASE COLOUR, WITH ACCENT PIECES AROUND THE FACE, SINCE IT’S THE MONEY SHOT.”
EXPERT TIP SINCE NEGATIVE SPACE IS A LOWMAINTENANCE COLOUR, WALL SAYS IT’S IMPORTANT TO RECOMMEND GLOSSING SERVICES AND TREATMENTS IN BETWEEN COLOUR APPOINTMENTS.
— ERYN WALL, OWNER OF THE HEADROOM SALON, ST. JOHN’S, NFLD.
What’s in it for You? Not only is negative space colour easy to create, it’s an easy way to help you transition more clients into colour services. “What happens is that once clients start getting into highlighting and adding dimension, they get excited and want more,” says Rodriguez. “And that’s when they’ll get into balayage and ombrè. So it really opens the door for your colour business.” Rodriguez, who is also a guest artist for Matrix, recommends that the base colour for brunettes be at a level four to eight, and blondes at a natural level six. “When you have that darker base, that’s when the colour really pops,” he says, adding that it can also work on shorter hair for both men and women. “The key is keeping it blended,” says Wall. “It’s a great way to introduce people to something more subtle and a more tone-on-tone look. It’s a great upsell and that’s something that, as a salon owner, I’m always talking to my staff about.”
Z.ONE CONCEPT'S PURE COLLECTION EXPLORES THE BEAUTY IN TRANSPARENCY, WITH PASTEL COLOURS AND CUTS THAT ENHANCE A WOMAN'S NATURAL BEAUTY. VISIT SALONMAGAZINE.CA TO SEE MORE FROM THIS COLLECTION.
salonmagazine.ca / April 2019 29
Hairlines — EDITOR’S PICKS
From the Ground Up
1 CONSCIOUS CONTROL A lightweight take on its classic Session.Spray, Kevin.Murphy’s Session.Spray Flex is a moldable hairspray with a conscience: For every can sold, the brand is making a donation to reduce global carbon emissions. 2 LOCKDOWN Secure your colour with Amika’s Vault Color-Lock Leave-In Conditioner that contains a blend of antioxidants and UV filters to detangle and soften hair while preserving and protecting colour. 3 WHIRLS OF CURLS Tame all types of curls with Design.ME Hair’s Bounce.Me, a conditioning cream that helps define curls and reduce frizz. Plus, it’s vegan, cruelty-free and made without gluten, parabens or sulphates. 4 TEA FOR ONE Revlon Professional’s UniqOne Green Tea Scent is an all-in-one, leave-in treatment that offers 10 unique benefits for healthier, more manageable hair. 5 HANDY HERO Get texture, volume and separation, with or without heat, thanks to evo’s Macgyver Multi-Use Mousse, which is free of environmentally harmful ingredients, such as parabens and sulphates. 6 MIRACLE WORKER Kérastase Aura Botanica Baume Miracle is a waterless leave-in balm that’s 99 per cent naturally derived and offers moisturizing benefits for dry hair and skin. 7 BARREL OF STRENGTH Olivia Garden’s EcoHair Thermal Brushes feature ergonomically designed handles made from bamboo, a natural renewable resource that’s lighter and more durable than wood.
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TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN, PHOTOGRAPH BY PAUL C
TAKE YOUR HAIRSTYLES TO THE NEXT LEVEL WITH OUR LATEST PRODUCT PICKS, INSPIRED BY THE ENVIRONMENT.
PHOTO: HAIR: MORENA CROLLA, U.K., MAKEUP: STACEY WHITAKER, PHOTO: JARRED PHOTOGRAPHY
YOUR GO-TO WEDDING STYLE GUIDE There’s no denying that weddings are big business. More than ever, beauty pros are playing a big part in creating camera-worthy looks that quite often end up on a client’s Insta feed. From scheduling a bride’s appointments and creating her signature hairstyle to styling the bridal party and more, we went to the pros to share everything you need to know when building your bridal business—and boosting your business beyond the big day. ➤
BY ANNA LEE BOSCHETTO, VERONICA BOODHAN AND YASMIN GROTHÉ
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Hairstyling Guide For the Short-Haired Bride
Expect to see a lot of brides with bobs, a style that’s been growing in popularity in the past few months. Think: St. Vincent and Dua Lipa at this year’s Grammy Awards. “Women who wear their hair really short with pixies and undercuts want to keep their signature look,” says Antoine Vadacchino, a Davines educator and stylist at Pure Salon in Montreal. “To make the style a bit more romantic, go for pretty finger waves with a retro influence from the ’40s and ’50s.” “For shorter hair, I think a lot of brides are going to be adding veils for more of a statement,” says Kirsten McIntosh, a bridal updo expert and educator for Revlon Professional.” Blonde lowlights and highlights give hair more definition. “It just picks up the light around the face, which is very flattering in photos,” says Jessica Domoney, a North American artist for Sexy Hair and hairstylist with a large bridal clientele. Vadacchino agrees. “Highlights add the details. A sun-kissed look is also very beautiful.” Luigi Di Tacchio, a L’Oréal Professionnel educator in Toronto says it’s important to discuss colour early on. “Whether that is balayage or another colour, we have to plan out appointments and any treatments accordingly.” He adds that a balayage executed one month before the wedding day will add dimension.
KEVIN.MURPHY’S I.DOO COLLECTION OFFERS A MODERN TAKE ON CLASSIC, VINTAGE AND BOHEMIAN BRIDAL HAIR. SEE MORE FROM THIS COLLECTION, INCLUDING HOW-TO TUTORIALS, AT SALONMAGAZINE.CA
For the “Natural” Inspired Bride
EXPERT TIP FOR BRIDES WEARING VEILS, MCINTOSH SAYS IT’S IMPORTANT FOR HAIRSTYLISTS TO KEEP PLACEMENT IN MIND, ALSO FACTORING IN THE BRIDE’S FACE STRUCTURE TO CREATE A BALANCE. FOR EXAMPLE, IF THEY HAVE A SQUARE JAW, SHE RECOMMENDS PLACING THE VEIL HIGHER UP TO HELP ELONGATE THE THAT AREA.
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All About the Base Jessica Domoney, a Sexy Hair North American artist, sends her bridal clients a basket of products containing Sexy Hair Extra Volumizing Shampoo, Root Pump Volumizing Spray Mousse, Total Body Blow Dry Bodyfying Lotion, to prep hair before the wedding. “Even if day-after hair holds better, I want to know what’s in there before I start working on them.”
Natural-looking hair is also making a comeback. “It’s really about showing off beautiful texture and movement,” says Vadacchino. “Hair is undone, but you need blow-drying, curling and styling skills to make it work.” Incorporating natural flowers and softly-tied ribbons in the hair is also something inspired by the natural, organic beauty movement. Domoney adds that more clients want real flowers in their hair instead of traditional bridal headpieces. “Hair is loose and deconstructed,” she says. “Florists are bringing extra flowers from the bouquet so they can be incorporated in the bride’s hairstyle.”
PHOTOS: KEVIN.MURPHY, HAIR: MORENA CROLLA, U.K., MAKEUP: STACEY WHITAKER, PHOTO: JARRED PHOTOGRAPHY, INVISIBOBBLE, THINKSTOCK
Upping Your Updo Game
While it used to be that over-the-top and overly structured updos reigned supreme, there’s a continual surge in more natural, less structured up-styles. For 2019, bridal is expected to be even more natural, thanks to the Duchess of Sussex, Meghan Markle. “A lot of brides want to put their hair up now,” says Chris Wood, a senior hairstylist at Medulla & Co. in Toronto’s Yorkville district. “It’s great to put hair in an updo, but it doesn’t always have to be so teased, sprayed and precious-looking.” Wood, who styled Markle’s hair when she was working in Toronto, says he wasn’t surprised by her wedding day hair choice. “She always wanted California girl hair,” he says, adding that her face-framing tresses and tendrils are in full force as wedding season looms. “A few face-framing pieces around the cheekbones, and a couple hanging down around the nape look great.” For something just as chic but sleek, the classic ponytail is another bridal staple. “You can go with a simple, elegant ponytail with maybe a bit of a braid or hide the elastic,” suggests McIntosh. “It’s still sleek but has a bit of pizazz to it.” ➤
Extend Your Services Many clients are willing to do anything and everything to look their very best on their big day. And, yes, that sometimes means exploring the world of hair extensions. Whether it’s for length or volume or colour, hair extensions can instantly help boost a client’s look and make your job a whole lot easier.
1 Camera Trick “Cameras tend to put 10 pounds on our bodies but take away 10 pounds from our hair. When you have an updo, it might look amazing in person, but it might not have the same effect when it’s on camera; it can tend to look a bit smaller. Adding a few extensions can help that chignon look fuller.” — Chris Wood, hairstylist and bridal specialist at Medulla & Co. 2 Playing Matchmaker “I recommend mixing multiple tones to create the most natural look, and testing the swatches in multiple lights so that in photos it always looks likes the bride’s hair.” — Caitlin Davidson, educator for Babe Hair Extensions 3 Perfection Takes Practice “If you find that you’re not getting it right on the client, you need to own up and practice on a mannequin. No one is reinventing the wheel. Create your own signature and keep at it, even on your time off.” — Kirsten McIntosh, bridal updo expert and educator for Revlon Professional
Instead of using a regular hair elastic, try one by Invisibobble. There are many options perfect for brides, whether you’re looking to blend the elastic in with their hair colour or draw attention to it with a hint of a metallic shade.
EXPERT TIP DAVIDSON SAYS IT’S IMPORTANT TO ASK IF THE BRIDE IS PLANNING A DESTINATION WEDDING. IF SO, YOU’LL NEED TO ENSURE SHE HAS THE PROPER (SULPHATE-FREE) PRODUCTS AND AVOIDS SALT, CHLORINE AND TANNING, WHICH CAN CAUSE DISCOLOURATION.
P RO D U C T P I C K S
Halo Couture The Layered Halo A popular choice for brides, this temporary option quickly adds length and volume to hair and is available in more than 30 colours, including balayage shades.
Great Lengths Diamond Strands For a hint of sparkle, these extensions feature genuine Swarovski crystals and are available in a wide range of thread colours to seamlessly blend with your bride’s hair colour.
Babe Hair Extensions Flat-Tip Extensions For brides interested in a semi-permanent extension option, these ones use a beaded method to provide a natural, 360-degree range of motion, and are easily customizable to match your bride’s hair colour.
HotHeads Over the Top For added volume at the crown, this all-inone, clip-on extension piece is available in natural and premium colours.
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Let’s face it: A bride’s hands become a focal point as soon as she says “yes.” And while it’s unlikely that you were able to plan ahead for her engagement nail look, you can definitely have a hand in helping a bride nail her look for the big day. “I always try to encourage brides to come in at least once prior to the wedding, especially if they are a first-time client,” says John Nguyen, a nail technician based in Peterborough,
CND has released three new opaque colours for their Brisa Gel: Warm Beige, Cool Pink and Natural Beige. These sculpting gel shades are suitable for all skin tones and are ideal for creating nail enhancements of any shape and length. Ardell Professional’s Nail Addict Premium is perfect for bridal clients with nail imperfections or experience difficulty growing their nails. These almond-shaped, glue-on nails are fileable for a naturallooking, long-lasting result, and are available in a range of holographic, shimmer and glitter shades.
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Ont. “This initial appointment gives me the chance to understand what she is specifically looking for. It gives me a good idea of what the timing will be to accomplish her look so that she is 100 per cent happy with it.” Nguyen, who is also an education ambassador for CND Canada, says it’s important to have everything a bride may have in mind on hand from a wide range of shades and top coats to glitter and Swarovski crystals. “It’s very important to spend the extra time to get things perfect. After all, the nails will be in photos for a lifetime!” Nguyen’s experience with brides and bridal parties speaks for itself. He even created Jessica Mulroney’s nail look for the Royal Wedding, which was seen by millions around the world. “It was an honour to be included in Harry and Meghan’s wedding coverage and I am grateful for the opportunity,” he says. “It was a great experience getting to know Jessica on a personal level, helping guide her with her nail style choices and having fun with it.”
EXPERT TIP NGUYEN SUGGESTS ALLOCATING EXTRA TIME FOR YOUR SERVICES, JUST IN CASE YOU RUN INTO ANY LAST-MINUTE CHANGES. HAVING A CHECKLIST (ESPECIALLY WHEN WORKING REMOTELY) IS ALSO KEY AND WILL HELP YOU MINIMIZE YOUR CHANCE OF FORGETTING ANY PRODUCTS OR TOOLS.
Artistic Nail Design Designed to flatter every skin tone, the Sheerly Devoted collection is perfect for all nail services, and is available in gel and lacquer Colour Gloss, Colour Revolution and even Perfect Dip dipping powder.
CND The limited edition Yes, I Do collection includes a neutral, ultra-feminine palette, available in Shellac, Shellac Luxe and Vinylux.
OPI With shades ranging from pearlescent ivory and iridescent pink to classic nudes and even ones with a bit of blue, there’s something for every bride in the Always Bare for You collection.
“IT WAS AN HONOUR TO BE INCLUDED IN HARRY AND MEGHAN’S WEDDING COVERAGE… IT WAS A GREAT EXPERIENCE GETTING TO KNOW JESSICA [MULRONEY] ON A PERSONAL LEVEL, HELPING GUIDE HER WITH HER NAIL STYLE CHOICES AND HAVING FUN WITH IT.” — JOHN NGUYEN, EDUCATION AMBASSADOR FOR CND CANADA
PHOTOS: CND CANADA, ARTISTIC NAIL DESIGN, OPI; ARDELL PROFESSIONAL, SUSAN VAN HORN, KEVIN.MURPHY, THINKSTOCK
“Nailing” the Nuptials
BR I DE PR I DE
Lashing Out Claire Ogilvie, a member of Novalash’s Lash Squad, shares her tips for offering eyelash extension services to bridal clientele.
Plan Ahead “I always recommend that the bride comes in at least three weeks prior to the wedding. We will sit down and consult about the look—whether it’s full glam or soft and natural. Plus, having her come in prior allows us to test for any allergies and still have time to make any adjustments to the look.” Get Customizing “The great thing about lash extensions is that there are so many different ways to wear them. They can look however your client wants them to look—as long as their natural lashes can naturally take it. We can also add a little sparkle to the outer edges with Candied Lashes.” Upsell “The bridal party could all have their lashes applied to ensure they look and feel as good as possible to help complete the bride’s big day. And every bride wants her bridal party to feel and look confident and great throughout the day.”
EXPERT TIP FOR LONGER LASTING WEAR, INDIVIDUAL LASH CLUSTERS CAN BE WORN FOR UP TO TWO WEEKS— PERFECT FOR BRIDES THAT ARE LEAVING FOR THEIR HONEYMOON RIGHT AFTER THE BIG DAY!
Five Tips for Building Your Bridal Business After three decades of getting brides picture perfect, Cathey Salerno, co-owner of Picaso Studios in Woodbridge, Ont., has some tried-and-true ways to help you build your business—one bride at a time.
1. Build Your Salon Business From brides to the bridal party to family members, “these are all potential new salon clients,” she explains. “Offer everyone in the bridal party a free blow-dry after the wedding. For the groom and his groomsmen, offer a free barbering service.”
Go big or go home! Made with premiumgrade human hair, Ardell’s Remy Lash is available in three styles, so there’s something for every bride, whether she wants dramatic volume or natural length.
2. Go Where Brides Are
“In the beginning, I attended bridal shows and booked free trials for brides,” she says. Salerno also suggests spending one afternoon every month doing hair at a bridal shop so that clients can get a sense of how their entire style will look.
3. Work the Social Network
Consider the effect social media has on her and your business. With more and more brides turning to Instagram and Pinterest for inspiration, it’s important to remember that what you post on your feeds may bring a bride into your salon.
4. Know the Recipe for Style
“Hairstyles are like recipes—you have to know the right ingredients in order to achieve great results,” she says. That means that as a hairstylist, you need to be able to dissect photos you see on social media and understand the details that make up the final look.
5. Make the Price Right
For all the time and effort that goes into creating a bride’s look, Salerno has found that many hairstylists are not charging for the work they are doing. “They underestimate their art. Master the bridal trends, think about it as a business, and you’ll be successful.” salonmagazine.ca / April 2019 35
OUR NATURAL ENVIRONMENT With clients awareness at an all-time high, we chatted with salon owners and brands who are doing their part to create more ecoconscious salon environments. BY ANNA LEE BOSCHETTO
It All Begins With Good Design
“Your design needs to have your environmental message displayed in every aspect throughout the salon. Show your love of the nature you are trying to protect, and have some wellloved plants as decoration, which also helps purify air from chemical odours.” — Chantelle Pasychny, designHouse Salon, Victoria, B.C. “Try to use locally sourced materials where possible, choose eco-friendly paint and even create a living wall, which we have in our salon.” — Chantelle Pasychny
Don’t Just Go With the Flow
“Purchasing Ecoheads showerheads greatly reduced our flow of water, helped to increase its pressure and also clarified the water.” — Chantelle Pasychny “We switched to a gas tankless water heater when replacing our water heater. It saves on utility bills and water waste overall. Having a filtered water head for your sinks offers cleaner water and controlled water pressure, which also cuts down on waste.” — Alicia Lumsden, Queen’s Shop Fine Hairdressing, Toronto
“Get your water flow checked and adjust it at the sink. Make sure your washing machine is energy-efficient and uses the least amount of water necessary.” — Chantelle Pasychny
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Brand Power —
In Canada, L’Oreal Professionnel has not only been producing all hair colour in Canada at the Ville Saint-Laurant facilities but since December 2017 L’Oreal Canada has been a 100 per cent carbonneutral production.
Ecoheads is supporting the Penguin Foundation on Phillip Island, located just off the southern coast of Australia. For every new Ping colour mixer sold, hairstylists will also receive a personalized adoption certificate. The Penguin Foundation funds the protection of little penguins through scientific research, conservation, wildlife rescue and education.
Seventy-six per cent of L’Oréal products launched in 2017 had an improved environmental or social profile. Every time a new product is created or reformulated, its contribution to sustainability is accounted for.
In an effort to improve the social and environmental profile of the brand by 2020, L’Oréal implemented the Sustainable Product Optimization Tool (SPOT) across each of its brands. The brand has worked to develop a methodology of this tool to measure all the environmental impacts to identify avenues for improvement. An industry leader in sourcing sustainable ingredients, Davines uses environmentally friendly packaging that are made from reusable food-grade safe packaging, and has an ongoing commitment to be a Zero Impact factory.
Clean Up the Salon Cleaners
“Switch to green, biodegradable, sustainably sourced, local (if possible) cleaning products and supplies. Don’t forget your toilet paper, too. And buy bulk or refill sizes.” — Alicia Lumsden
Electrical Costs Can Be Shocking
Get Your Team On Board
“We are Bullfrog powered because we believe in sustainable energy sourcing. Any small step we can do today will help us all move in a good direction. Don’t worry about changing everything right now; simply a shift in our awareness changes our future actions.” — Alicia Lumsden
“First and foremost, we look for a team that is naturally passionate about the environment and community when we hire. We also have created clear instruction manuals and keep notes posted in the salon to serve as reminders to everyone.” — Alicia Lumsden
“Even small changes including automatic light sensors for low traffic areas like the bathroom and lunch room make a difference. We also have stickers on all switches to remind staff that all lights need to be turned off at night.” — Chantelle Pasychny
“Regular education on our sustainable ethics and ongoing and new environmental initiatives are presented at staff meetings. We make our salon policies reflect our ethics with sustainable practices.” — Chantelle Pasychny
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THE BIG RE-VEIL
TULLE DEATH DO US PART
CHIFFON & ON & ON
IT’S GOING GOWN
GORGEOUS IN GOSSAMER
PROFESSIONAL FORMULAS | PROFESSIONAL RESULTS™ ArtisticNailDesign.com © Artistic Nail Design • Nail Alliance - Artistic, Inc., Missouri USA • HM-9062
CO LLE CTIO NS
An inspiring selection of hairstyles that will motivate you to take your craft to the next level. salonmagazine.ca / July/August 2018 39
Collections â€” LOST GENERATION
Building a foundation of textures with bold, earthy colour adds a fresh and youthful vibe to this collection.
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HAIR RUSH Artistic Team, U.K. MAKEUP Kristina Vidic STYLING Robert Morrison PHOTOS Jack Eames
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Collections â€” SWEET DREAMS
Iridescent tones mingle with natural hues in this dreamy collection that celebrates textured styles.
Contessa 2019 Finalist, Canadian Hairstylist of the Year, Michelle Finlayson, Freelance, Edmonton, Alta. MAKEUP Renee Rampersad STYLING Liz Crawford PHOTOS Morgan Gold
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Collections â€” REBEL NATURE
Loose natural styles offer high impact while complementing a chicly subdued colour palette.
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HAIR Altin Ismaili, Marc Antoni, U.K. MAKEUP Katie Moore STYLING Ellen Spiller PHOTOS Richard Miles salonmagazine.ca / April 2019 45
Collections — FASHIONABLE STATE
Dramatic colour plays the lead role in this collection that’s high on editorialinspired style.
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HAIR & PHOTOS Damien Carney, Sam Brocato Salon, U.S. COLOUR Rossa Jurenas MAKEUP Joanne Gair STYLING Nikko Kefalas salonmagazine.ca / April 2019 47
Collections â€” MODEL MOMENTS
Featuring natural hues and texture, this collection combines approachable style with youthful energy.
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Contessa 2019 Finalist, Session Hairstylist of the Year, Erin Fernandes, Freelance, London, Ont. MAKEUP Loreen Sawatsky STYLING Erin Fernandes PHOTOS Natasha Gerschon salonmagazine.ca / April 2019 49
Collections â€” OH, CANADA!
Canadians took their talents to a national level when they competed at the 2019 North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA) and won a total of five awards!
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HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR HAIR Julie Vriesinga, Salon Entrenous, London, Ont. MAKEUP Florencia Taylor STYLING Julie Vriesinga PHOTOS Paula Tizzard
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Collections — OH, CANADA!
MASTER HAIRSTYLIST HAIR Silas Tsang, Blushes, Ottawa MAKEUP Kylie O’Toole STYLING Ella Murphy PHOTO Andrew O’Toole
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MEN’S HAIRSTYLIST HAIR Pete Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. MAKEUP Marika D’Auteuil STYLING Alicia Leclerc PHOTO Jordan Holloway
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Collections â€” OH, CANADA!
MAKEUP ARTIST MAKEUP Florencia Taylor, Freelance, London, Ont. HAIR & STYLING Julie Vriesinga PHOTO Paula Tizzard
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NEWCOMER STYLIST HAIR Jesse Ervin, Jesse Ervin Hair, Toronto MAKEUP Hassan Haque PHOTO Natasha Gershon salonmagazine.ca / April 2019 55
August 6, 2019 GALA
November 10, 2019 Westin Harbour Castle, Toronto
Learn more about important rule changes
Robynn Graham Hailing from the small town of Innisfil, Ont. (with a population of less than 40,000), Robynn Graham has hairstyling in her DNA. Her great-aunt Suzie is the owner of the family’s local salon, Suzette’s, where Graham and her mother both work. Though Graham has gone on to study in the big city (Toronto) with Aveda, it was her family’s European roots that inspired her Contessa collection. “I looked at a lot of European hairstyles,” she recalls. “I really like a lot of short, funky looks; stuff that’s not on the streets and not your everyday look.” A Cut Above Using three of her clients as models, Graham also got an opportunity very few hairstylists get when working on photoshoots: She cut their hair! “I was really lucky,” she says. “They had shoulder-length hair and were totally OK [with cutting it]. A lot of my clients get excited when I try something new.”
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GET THE LOOK
L’ANZA Healing ColorCare Color Illuminator “It’s a spray that makes the colour shine and pop more. I could actually see the difference in the photo before and after I put the Colour Illuminator on.”
Graham went online to seek inspiration, finding it in Hairdressers Journal, where she added this 2017 Contessa finalist photo by Alain Pereque to her inspiration board.
Change of Heart While Graham knew exactly the types of cuts she wanted, she was more indecisive about colour. “On one model I wanted to go a deep red, but at the last minute I ended up cleansing it out to make it softer because I thought it was a bit too bold. It ended up being a faded strawberry colour,” she says. “For the other model, I wanted to only go with purple, but I ended up adding some copper and it kind of took over, but it flowed better [with the rest of the collection] and ended up working in my favour.” With so much change happening on prep day, Graham admits that the process was stressful but credits her photographer, Giancarlo Intini, for helping her through it. “Giancarlo was amazing. He really helped me out for my first-ever photoshoot, giving me a lot of tips and tricks as to what would work well in front of the camera,” she explains. So much so that Graham is already gearing up for her next competition and photoshoot—which is for the next Contessas!
TEXT: VERONICA BOODHAN; CONTESSA PHOTO: HAIR: ROBYNN GRAHAM, HAIR BY ROBYNN, INNISFIL, ONT., MAKEUP & PHOTO: GIANCARLO INTINI, INSPIRATION PHOTO: ALAIN PEREQUE, FREELANCE, MONTREAL, MAKEUP: PACO PUERTAS, STYLING: RIMA CHAHINE, PHOTO: JOHN RAWSON; MODERN BEAUTY SUPPLIES
Contessa Gallery — 2019 CONTESSA FINALIST, NEW HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR
“I used to play sports and I never thought I would become a hairstylist. But I always wanted to be the captain of my team. And that’s how I look at hairstyling—I just want to know everything.”
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Discover how becoming more eco-friendly can improve your bottom line.
BY ANNA LEE BOSCHETTO
As a salon owner, managing your finances is one of the biggest parts of the job, and these days, being conscious about your salon’s impact on the environment is likely high on your list of priorities, too. In fact, becoming more environmentally efficient can also impact your finances in meaningful ways. For Luis Pacheco, owner of Medulla & Co. in Toronto, being more environmentally aware has been and continues to be a growing consideration within his salon. “It started with LED lighting, and as technology improved, we’ve found additional ways to incorporate sustainable practices as we go,” he says. While you may assume seemingly small changes don’t have much of an impact on the environment—or add up to significant savings as a salon owner—you’d be surprised to learn that the opposite is true in both cases. Here’s how you can make a difference across the board.
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Running Dry Be conscious of your water consumption. You may have a colourist with a habit of running water while mixing colour or gloss, and simply making sure they are aware of this wasteful habit can have a big impact. “We have a gas high efficiency system, which displaces CO2 emissions because of this change,” says Brian Phillips, owner of World Salon in Toronto. The takeaway: When you save on water usage, you’re also saving on electricity, allowing for double the savings. Brands Association Pacheco believes in associating his salons with brands that fall in line with his philosophy as an owner. “We look at them in terms of what they do with recycling, whether they test on animals and what they are doing with salons,” he says. Phillips agrees. “Everything we use in the salon is toxinfree, and we are serious about having a clean, healthy and safe space.” Fortunately, companies like Green Circle have a clear understanding of the impact of foils and chemical colour processing, and offer programs that not only recycle, but also reuse salon waste in ways that benefit the environment. Environmental Team Spirit For Pacheco, being ecoconscious is a lifestyle for his whole team, and is one that requires a level of ongoing education. “Our practices are simple, really. Not overmixing colour, making sure that we have reusable
gloves available, etc.,” he says. “There needs to be an overarching consistency of recycling and disposing of organic material properly, and everyone in the salon needs to be aware of what goes in which bin.” He adds that when in doubt, using your municipality’s recycling app as a reference tool comes in handy. Powering Down While long-term energy costs may be cheaper in a solarpowered salon, until that opportunity arises, Pacheco says there are many small changes that can be made to make a big difference when it comes to being energy efficient. Both he and Phillips suggest opting for LED lighting to start, and to look into which incentives your municipal or provincial government offer small businesses making conscious investments in reducing their energy consumption. Keep Talking About It Even if your salon doesn’t have the capacity to implement a program currently, if you have an idea that can minimize your energy footprint, consider talking to organizations that can make your concept a reality. “When Green Circle started, I approached them about ways in which we could dispose of colour, and as a result, hair colour now is disposed of in a safer way,” Pacheco says. The bottom line: When the goal is to help the environment, it’s worth asking questions and getting involved!
The Business of the Environment
City of Angels BY LUCY MAZZUCCO
What is it like to work with a celebrity for a red carpet event? What are some challenges you may encounter and how do you overcome them? It’s the same as working in a salon, except you have more time to create the look. For example, instead of 45 minutes, you get two hours. Celebrities I have worked with and met are the nicest people. You have to remember that you’re usually working with a person who is stressed out, so you always need to provide good energy to make that person feel comfortable. You have to be egoless. How do you come up with fresh ideas for award shows to make your styles stand out? A lot of people follow influencers. Redo what’s been done. I look to the “OG” of fashion and hair. For example, I’m inspired by Sam McKnight. I like to take inspiration from the past, and by looking at other people’s work and seeing what they’re coming up with.
PHOTOS: MATTHEW COLLINS
As a Toronto-based hairstylist for many years, what would you say to someone wanting to follow in your footsteps? Expect to put in many years of hard work. You have to hustle more. I think there are less opportunities in Canada for this, so you have to work harder to make it in the U.S. You have to ask yourself: Are you prepared to make less money? How does hairstyling in Canada compare to the U.S., especially in terms of celebrity and editorial hairstyling? Same skill set, but top level. The big difference is travelling! Canadians are at the forefront of the world—but people aren’t going to Canada much. If you’re thinking about where to go, the main
difference for hairstyling between New York City and L.A., for example, is that New York is more editorial and L.A. is more celebrity. Remember that nurturing relationships is key to be able to work anywhere in the U.S. What social media tips do you have for hairstylists looking to build their platforms and increase their followings? Engagement, brand and focus. You need to reply to everyone and create conversations with your following. Be a real person and don’t just ignore people, because the more you engage with them, the more they will engage with you as well. Know your brand and don’t be all over the place. It may take some time, but spend a weekend thinking of how you want your brand to look and be represented. Make sure you have a business Instagram account, so that you can track your analytics and follow them. Find out what people engage with most and post more of that.
Profile —MATTHEW COLLINS
Hairstylist and Instagram influencer Matthew Collins gives us the inside scoop on styling for celebrities and weighs in with tips on hairstyling north and south of the border.
“A LOT OF PEOPLE FOLLOW INFLUENCERS… I LOOK TO THE ‘OG’ OF FASHION AND HAIR. I LIKE TO TAKE INSPIRATION FROM THE PAST, AND BY LOOKING AT OTHER PEOPLE’S WORK AND SEEING WHAT THEY’RE COMING UP WITH.”
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Interiors — MËDZ SALON
From its inception, Mëdz Salon has always had an eco mission. This is the latest incarnation of that vision.
BY YASMIN GROTHÉ
“When we opened our first salon in 2007, we had nearly zero budget for professional furnishings. We’ve really come a long way,” says Marie-Ève Medza, co-owner of this Montreal-based salon. With two locations that have made a name for themselves thanks to a combination of hard work, education and determination, the Mëdz team were rewarded this year, winning the 2019 Contessa award for Fan Favourite. Moving Up The original location was almost directly across the street from their current space where they moved in June 2018. “The previous owners had decided to close, and it was such a fantastic opportunity for us,” recalls Medza. “We’ve almost doubled our space and 62 salonmagazine.ca / April 2019
everyone feels much more comfortable in these bigger digs. The clients also enjoy the more luxe vibe.” One way they kept on budget was by retaining the original equipment. “Everything had been created by Lanvain Design and was very good quality, so there was no reason to change anything.” They also kept the original floor plan, which was deemed super functional for the variety of services offered at Mëdz, where 20 per cent of the space in a separate area is dedicated to esthetics, including laser hair removal, microblading and a variety of facial treatments. Environment at Heart When launching her business, Medza wanted her salon to stand apart,
while also taking a significant stand for the environment. “We were the first Green Circle salon in Quebec, a dedicated program for hair salons to recycle their waste.” In keeping with their green mission since moving into this new space, they’ve added plants, wood crates, new lighting, and industrial-style accents. Medza says the décor was a bit far from their style, which is more down to earth and laidback. Thankfully clients have embraced better green practices and most come in to replenish shampoos and conditioners in their reusable containers since Mëdz has become a full-fledged Davines salon. “Our aim is to be as green as possible, and that’s why we keep adding new brands that embody this philosophy.”
PHOTOS: YVES DE GRASSE
Lock Stock & Barrel
Opened in 2018
Work/technical stations: 14
Stylists, nail technicians and estheticians: 16
2,500 square feet
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Highlights from ISSE 2019 The Salon team travelled to Long Beach, Calif., for three epic days filled with education and presentations, along with a behind-the-scenes experience with top industry talent, including past Contessa winners and finalists, at the 2019 North American Hairstyling Awards (NAHA). When & Where: January 26-28, Long Beach, Calif.
Inspiring Education with Matrix More than 300 salon owners, hairstylists and distributors gathered for Matrix’s annual national sales meeting and Education Excel ME. The threeday event included a welcome cocktail party hosted by Matrix Canada’s general manager, Pierre-Luc Berube, along with previews of upcoming product launches and presentations from the brand’s education team. When & Where: February 10-12, Niagara Falls, Ont. 64 salonmagazine.ca / April 2019
One on One with Trevor Sorbie!
The iconic British hairstylist is coming to Toronto on April 29 and Montreal on April 30 for a wig cutting and styling seminar. As the founder of mynewhair, a charity dedicated to providing hairstylists with cut and style training for people with medical hair loss, Trevor Sorbie will be leading a morning look-andlearn and afternoon hands-on cutting session. The event is in partnership with Pureology and Look Good Feel Better. For more information and to purchase tickets, visit lpeducation.ca.
It’s ABA Show Time!
PHOTOS: SALON STAFF, REDKEN, PUREOLOGY, ARTIST CHOICE
Turning it Up at the 2019 Redken Symposium! More than 10,000 beauty pros travelled to Las Vegas for a three-day experience filled with education, inspiration and so much more. From a high-energy opening ceremony to a festival-inspired party featuring the brand’s VP of education, Sheri Doss (aka. DJ Dazzle), the biennial event featured the best of the best of the Redken Tribe, including international big-guns Sam Villa and Tracey Cunningham, who each showcased their signature cutting and colour tips. Plus, Redken artists Jorge Joao, Cindy Duplantis, MJ Déziel and Sean Goddard represented for Canada. When & Where: January 20-22, Las Vegas
With more than 150 exhibitors, along with numerous competitions and educational seminars, the Allied Beauty Association presents Revel In Beauty. Taking place from April 14 to 15 at the Metro Toronto Convention Centre, this year’s headliners include a presentation from the Leading Ladies: Tracey Hughes, Candy Shaw, Larissa Love and Michelle Pargee. Visit abacanada.com for event and ticket information.
Taking the Lead
Tony Spina has been appointed to general manager for Artist Choice, an Ontario-based professional beauty distributor founded by John Donato. Spina has more than 10 years of industry experience and was the former national sales director for Revlon Professional. salonmagazine.ca / April 2019 65
Salon Stories —
The Buzz on Being Sustainable Renowned international hairstylist Angelo Seminara and Canadian icon Anna Pacitto are two creative powerhouses guided by true artistry, while keeping their feet firmly planted on the earth with their vision of sustainable beauty. Here, they share why it’s essential for us all to embrace big changes. ANNA Working [as an Artistic Team Member] with Davines, a brand whose mission is to create a sustainable future, has literally transformed the way I live. Before, I was casually into recycling but now I’m absolutely aware of everything. Every aspect of my life has been impacted, so it’s not just representing a beauty brand. It has affected my life as I live it.
ANNA Being part of a company that keeps us in check is good because our industry is generally perceived as being shallow, although that is changing now. It’s a big step forward. We need to keep making changes. A few years ago, I started thinking of what we were going to leave behind. I sometimes feel that our little steps are not fast enough. ANGELO My hero right now is [natural historian] Sir David Attenborough. He’s saying really important things that we need to hear about climate change. It’s
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a really urgent situation we need to take a stand for. When you hear it’s 20 degrees in Italy, in the middle of winter, you know it’s not normal. In terms of haircare, we know the products can’t be 100 per cent organic right now, and there’s still a lot of work that needs to be done. ANNA Yes, that’s so true. Ten years ago, hairdressers wouldn’t speak this way. We would only look for effective products, but companies such as Davines make us think differently. Right now, we’re not trying to tame the hair as much as we used to. We’re letting hair behave more naturally, do what it wants to do. Hair that’s not as ‘done’ is cool and modern. It’s affecting fashion. I’m really happy to see the looks are evolving. ANGELO I remember when I was working in the salon I would spend one hour on a haircut. But I was always fully booked because I was using the best techniques; pure dedication. It starts with being honest, by collaborating with your client. And haircuts and
colour need to be more sustainable. The ambition of the hairdresser is to create something that makes their client stand out, to make them unique. And I think that balayage is just so boring, not to mention the damage that lighteners can do on the hair if it’s not done right. Right now, the time is ripe again to revolutionize hair colour. ANNA Like the Imprinter [for stenciling], one of your ideas, Angelo, which creates beautiful colour effects. It’s unique and not that difficult to understand. It’s not mainstream yet, but we can see that it’s certainly taken off. ANGELO Sometimes we’re misunderstood, but that happens when you innovate.
PHOTOS: DAVINES, ANNA PACITTO
ANGELO I come from a small town in Southern Italy where my grandmother, who had never purchased any culinary ingredients in her entire life, brought me into hairdressing. She was the first person I knew who was truly sustainable. Throughout my career, I would sometimes tell myself: ‘I’m going to make my own product’, to come back to the roots of what my grandmother taught me, the values she instilled in me.
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