Salon Magazine, April 2015

5

Pieces of Retail Advice for Your Male Clients SUSTAINABLE

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

SPACES: ECO-FRIENDLY

A PRIMER ON THE STATE OF

FACIAL HAIR

SALON DESIGN

Manpower:

Trends for Men

APRIL 15 $5 SALONMAGAZINE.CA

Soo Joo Park, model & social trendsetter Follow Soo Joo’s #extremelengths transformation on Instagram: @redkencanada and @soojmooj

NEW EXTREME LENGTH #EXTREMELENGTHS

before

HEALTHY HAIR CAN GROW 3-6 IN A YEAR

ACHIEVE YOUR MAXIMUM LENGTH UP TO

6 IN A YEAR

WITH SYSTEM OF SHAMPOO, PRIMER AND SEALER

Known for her signature long blonde hair, Model Soo Joo Park was battling extensive breakage and made the decision to cut her hair short. That was a year ago and now she’s on her way to longer length again with the help of New Extreme Length formulas with biotin. See Soo Joo’s #goextreme transformation on Instagram.

after

GET INSPIRED. BE PART OF IT.

2 STEP SYSTEM Long-wearing formula with smudge-fixing technology

STEP 1

FLEXIBLE COLOR

STEP 2

FLEXIBLE SEALCOAT

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APRIL.15 SALONMAGAZINE.CA FEATURES 44

GENTLEMEN’S CLUB

46

MANLY MANES

48

SUSTAINABLE SPACE MATTERS

“Lumbersexual” and “barbershop experience”: need-to-know terms for the next wave in guy's grooming.

From a ’stache to a bearish beard, these whiskers are worth talking about.

From lighting to recycling, here’s how to make your salon an eco-chic space.

50

STYLE REFINERY

54

COLLECTIONS

Straight from the catwalks around the globe, bring the Spring/Summer 2015 hair trends right into your salon.

Schwarzkopf Professional Spring/ Summer 2015 Essential Looks; Timothy Switzer; Revlon Professional Yes, I Do 2; Uros Mikic; Tyana Nichole; Sarah Mak; Jacob Rozenberg; Intercoiffure South Africa; Jeffery Klassen; Michael Gibson

74

INTERCOIFFURE SOUTH AFRICA

ON OUR COVER: Hair: Uros Mikic, Kinky Curly Straight, Stepney, Australia Makeup: Anita Rutter Styling: Mojca Bizjak-Mikic Photos: Karla Manjnaric

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s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

Call 800.341.9999 or visit pro.opi.com • ©2015 OPI Products Inc. • Volcanic imagery © G. Brad Lewis

H ALO

A

SAY “ALOHA!” TO YOUR CHANCE FOR A W NV N HAWAIIAN VACATION!

Go to opi.com/HawaiiSweeps for an entry form and official rules for the Hawaii Sweepstakes sponsored by OPI!

My Gecko Does Tricks All shades available in lacquer and GelColor by OPI

Suzi Shops & Island Hops, Just Lanai-ing Around, Hello Hawaii Ya?, This Color’s Making Waves, My Gecko Does Tricks, Pineapples Have Peelings Too!, Aloha from OPI, Go with the Lava Flow, Lost My Bikini in Molokini, Is Mai Tai Crooked?, Do You Take Lei Away?, That’s Hula-rious!

Try it on at opi.com

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OPI is guaranteed only when purchased through authorized professional beauty outlets and prestige stores, not from a drugstore, supermarket, mass outlet, or other unauthorized source.

REGULARS

72

JACOB ROZENBERG, MOODS HAIR SALON, VANCOUVER

12 14

EDITOR’S LETTER

16

SALONMAGAZINE.CA

19

HAIRLINES

From new product launches and industry news to Nails, Colour and Men’s Esthetics to a guys-only Editor’s Picks—we’ve got it covered.

82

CONTESSA GALLERY

Mikka Bitangcol, Contessa 26 Finalist, Men’s Hairstylist of the Year

86

PROFILE

88

90

80

MICHAEL GIBSON, STYLE LAB HEADQUARTERS, VANCOUVER

PUBLISHER’S NOTE This month at SalonMagazine.ca

Blazing the Trail: Trevor Sorbie

BUSINESS Make your male clients as loyal to their products as they are to their stylist.

INTERIORS

Natural Luxury: Medulla & Co., Toronto

93

EVENTS

97

SCOOP

98

BY THE NUMBERS

60

TIMOTHY SWITZER, TIMOTHY & CO SALON AND SPA, WHITBY, ONT.

48 90

7 TIPS TO GREEN UP YOUR SALON SPACE

MEDULLA & CO., TORONTO

10

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BLONDOR FREELIGHTS SUNKISSED BEAUTY WITH A POP OF PERSONALITY Discover sunkissed hair with BLONDOR FREELIGHTS, our new lightening system that gives you the freedom to create naturallooking hair using the hand painted Balayage technique. No foils or fuss, just a beautiful sun-lightened effect.

Dial up the style and add an element of surprise with iNSTAMAT!C by Color Touch, six new fashion-forward temporary shades with a matte gloss finish.

Clear Dust

Jaded Mint

Smokey Amethyst

Wella Professionals •

www.facebook.com/WellaProCanada

Follow us on

Instagram

Ocean Storm

Pink Dream

Muted Mauve

#wellahair • 1 800 419-3552 ©2015 Procter & Gamble, Inc., Toronto, ON. M5W 1C5 All Rights Reserved.

EDITOR’S LETTER

Sustainable Business

G

uys and the environment: It’s the joint theme for this issue and,

and profits

Count on ABANTU to provide what your clients want, when they want it ALL QUALITY BRANDS ALL TYPES, STYLES & LENGTHS ALL IMAGINABLE COLOURS Visit abantu.com/pages/wholesale Signup and save up 20%.

were a big part of my life.

The discussion on being environmentally aware was just beginning.

“Reduce,” “reuse” and “recycle” were catchwords that were often used in conjunction with newly instituted recycling programs. These days, every community seems to have a recycling and composting program in place, making it easier for residents and businesses alike to make responsible decisions when it comes to waste.

In a similar way that environmental awareness has become a renewed focus for many salons, so has men’s hairstyling and grooming. For guys who lived through the era of grunge, their look was equal parts rock star and skater, with a side of star athlete. Fast-forward a couple of decades and many of those same guys are now sporting cleaner, more conservative looks, yet each is still very well styled. In fact, to hear some of them talk, they’re as aware of their appearance now as they were as teenagers, and the salon industry has responded with product lines and specialized services that cater to male clients.

Whether they cater to clients who support businesses that are aware of their carbon footprint or those who are looking for specialized men’s services, salons have even more opportunity to build their businesses in a whole new way. It’s an exciting time to be in this industry, so test the waters and find out how you can make changes that will benefit your salon and your clients in the years ahead.

1.800.615.9899 PRODUCT PRICE SERVICE SUPPORT 12

salon april.15

Anna Lee Boschetto Editor-in-Chief

Since 1993

Facebook “f ” Logo

CMYK / .ai

Facebook “f ” Logo

PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, HAIR AND MAKEUP: DIANA CARREIRO

extend possibilities

oddly enough, when I was growing up in the early ’90s, both

CMYK / .ai

Find me on Facebook at Facebook.com/SalonMag or email me at Annalee@SalonMagazine.ca. s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

liquid wax americancrew.com/stylist

facebook.com/americancrewcanada

twitter.com/americancrew

Controls like a gel.

Finishes like a wax.

Creates inFinite styles. instagram.com/americancrew #LiquidWax

PUBLISHER’S NOTE ISSN 1197-1495 volume 24 issue 5

s a l onm a ga z i ne . c a

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Anna Lee Boschetto 416.869.3131 ext.102 annalee@salonmagazine.ca

ASSOCIATE ART DIRECTOR

Stephanie MacDonald 416.869.3131 ext.113 stephanie@salonmagazine.ca EDITOR-IN-CHIEF (FRENCH)

Yasmin Grothé 514.553.4404 yasmin@salonmagazine.ca ASSOCIATE EDITOR

Ashley Kowalewski 416.869.3131 ext.119 ashley@salonmagazine.ca DESIGNER

Gareth Adamson 416.869.3131 ext.106 gareth@salonmagazine.ca ASSISTANT ONLINE EDITOR

Nicole Lippay 416.869.3131 ext.122 nicole@salonmagazine.ca COPY EDITOR

It’s A Guy Thing

Corinna Reeves CONTRIBUTORS

Paul Chmieloweic, Jillian Wood

W

GROUP PUBLISHER

Laura Dunphy 416.869.3131 ext.110 laura@salonmagazine.ca

atching a trend is very similar to watching a wave in the ocean:

SALES AGENT U.S.

You can see it starting to form in the distance as you stand

Samantha Anobile 310.926.9288 samantha@salonmagazine.ca

along the shoreline and, just as the wave builds and begins

ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE

Megan Jeffery 416.869.3131 ext.220 megan@salonmagazine.ca

to crest, you don’t know whether it will fizzle out or hit the coast with

PRODUCTION MANAGER

thunderous force. This is how I’ve felt about the men’s grooming category.

Alan Swinton 416.869.3131 ext.111 production@salonmagazine.ca

Over the years, men’s grooming has had plenty of false starts, with

OPERATIONS MANAGER

Karren Han 416.869.3131 ext.118 karren@salonmagazine.ca

much buildup that never really hit hard. But now, this category has reached

CIRCULATION MANAGER

a full tidal wave—some might even say that it has nearly flooded the

Target Audience Management Inc. T. 905.729.1288 F. 905.729.0227 salon@mysubscription.ca

market. From the influence of Mad Men’s Don Draper and the debonair

EXECUTIVE BUSINESS ADMINISTRATOR

George Clooney putting the cool factor in men’s styling, to men’s fashion

Candice Besselaar 416.869.3131 ext.108 candice@salonmagazine.ca

weeks taking place around the world and the plethora of new brands just

CHAIRMAN

Brian Light 416.869.3131 ext.104 brian@salonmagazine.ca

for your male clients cropping up, the market is hot.

ASSISTANT TO THE CHAIRMAN

From where I’m standing, I believe what really gave the category such

Pam Fulford

a solid footing was the salon industry. I have to give a hats off to American

VICE-PRESIDENT & WEST COAST EDITOR

Greg Robins 604.561.4971 greg@salonmagazine.ca

Crew for setting the gold standard, making men’s grooming sexy and

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super-stylish. And the brand’s photography-based competition, All-Star Challenge, also put the spotlight on the precision and technical skills of the hairstylists who are a big part of this admirable category.

Whether you live in an urban centre, suburban area or small community,

A D D RE SS CH A NGE S Email: salon @ mysubscription.ca

Fax: 905.729.4432 or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services

salons and barbershops that are catering specifically to men are affectionately known as “the man caves.” From the military crewcut to

PO Box 357, Beeton, ON L0G 1A0 Canada

the lumbersexual to the faux-hawk now every guy can sport a cool look thanks to these hairstylists and barbers. Add in hot shaves, paraffin hand everyday services—and business is definitely booming.

As one of the new tribe of tattooed clipper-toting hairstylists, Jason Culala of OGX in Toronto, continues to experience the tidal wave of business and sums up the essence of men’s grooming best: “In men’s haircutting, there’s no room for mishaps: You can’t hide mistakes. We don’t do 20-minute haircuts. It’s not about putting the number two on a clipper and riffling through the cut; it’s all in the details. You have to take pride in your work.”

I couldn’t agree more, and it’s time to say, let’s hear it for the boys!

Laura Dunphy Publisher

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SA LON M AGA Z INE PHOTO: ALVARO GOVEIA, MAKEUP: LANAGMAKEUP.COM

wax treatments and pedicures—all of which are becoming a regular part of

Phone: 905.729.1288

365 Bloor St. E. Suite 1902 Toronto, ON, M4W 3L4 T. 416.869.3131 F. 416.869.3008 641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada Ltd.)

Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, PO Box 357, Beeton, ON, L0G 1A0 Canada

National Magazine Awards GOLD

SILVER

2008 2003 2002 1998 1995

2009 2003 2001 1997 1996

TOP FIVE

2009 2008 2002/2001 2000/1999 1996

Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40011270

Printed on recyclab

This magazine is recyclable.

Please recycle where facilites exist.

We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada through the Canada Periodical Fund of the Department of Canadian Heritage.

The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

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From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail salon@tamicirc.ca.

Our privacy officer is Brian Gillett at 905.729.1288.

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NEW!

SULTRY BLONDES 3 PERMANENT CRÈME SHADES that provide luminous blonde results without brassiness

©2015 Joico® Laboratories, division of Piidea Canada Ltd, Pointe-Claire, QC, H9R 5N3 www.facebook.com/Joico.com joicocanada.ca

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4 ALL NEW DEMI-PERMANENT INSTANT GLOSS TONERS that revitalize blondes in 5 minutes without dryness, dullness or brassiness

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GREEN & ECO-CONSCIOUS While being eco-conscious is important all year round, salons and spas really step up their game around Earth Day. Check out some of our favourite green initiatives at SalonMagazine.ca, get inspired and see how you can contribute to more eco-friendly practices.

WANTED Looking for a fresh start or a new challenge? Browse our job board at SalonMagazine.ca to see if your dream

Need some

TAX TALK

Man-spiration?

Men’s grooming is all the rage right now! Head to SalonMagazine.ca to browse our men’s collections from all over the world for some inspiration on cuts, colour and styles.

SalonMag 16

salon april.15

Salon_Magazine

SalonMagazine

Filing your taxes, especially as a freelancer, can be a frustrating experience, to say the least. Head to SalonMagazine.ca to see our tips on how to get through the process easily and efficiently—stress-free!

See all of the complete collections in this issue at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections!

Salon Magazine

PHOTOS: HAIR AND PHOTO: MARTIN FOX, SCARLET MOON, MIDDLESBROUGH, U.K., MAKEUP: HOLLY MARSHALL, STYLING: INDIA RAIN FOX;THINKSTOCK

job is just around the corner.

SalonMagazine salonmagazine.ca

New Shades!

CND™ SHeLLAC™ Brand 14+ Day Nail Colour

VINYLuX™ weekly Polish

A garden of memories future-past.

Intense floral hues rapt in reveries.

Stunning. Spellbinding. Intense. Be unforgettable.

Discover the new collection at a store near you.

Find this nailstyle at cnd.com/ nail-salonservices/ nail-fashion

Follow us @CNDCanada CND, SHeLLAC, VINYLuX and the logo are trademarks of Creative Nail Design, Inc. ©2015 Creative Nail Design, Inc.

cnd.com

REVIVE

86 of respondents in an independent %

survey said that their hair looked healthier after just 30 days.*

Be A Hair Hero •Thicker, fuller, healthier-looking hair •Bosley Doctor Recommended BosRevive for Color-Treated Hair

* The accuracy, reliability, or completeness of the furnished data is not guaranteed or warranted in any way and Scientific Hair Research, LLC’ s and its representatives disclaim liability of any kind whatsoever, including, without limitation, liability for quality, performance, merchantability and fitness for a particular purpose arising out of the use, or inability to use the data.

www.bosleypro.com For information call 1.800.BOSLEY1 www.bosleyp

We Support

©2015 Bosley, Inc. Beverly Hills, CA 90212 Scientific Hair Research, LLC. All Rights Reserved. Printed for Scienti

ESP Salon Sales: 1-800-667-2566 | Kingdom Beauty Supplies Ltd: 1-800-738-8666 | Star Bedard: 1-800-361-1978 | Toronto Barber and Beauty Supply: 1-800-387-2962

HAIRLINES NEWS

Making a Splash L’Oréal Professionnel announces its new international spokesperson, Eva Green, just in time for the launch of two new Wet Domination products.

Two new products and a fresh new face bring L’Oréal Professionnel’s Wet Domination by Tecni.Art collection to light. Former Bond girl Eva Green fronts the brand as it introduces the latest products from its fashion-inspired

GIRL WITH THE PEARL HAIR Get creative with colour with the new Schwarzkopf Professional Igora Royal Pearlescence Permanent Color Creme.

Clients looking to switch up their sophisticated colour

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, L'ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL, RUSK

can get excited for the new Schwarzkopf Professional Igora Royal Pearlescence Permanent Color Creme. The eight new shades—including Magenta, Emerald, Tangerine, Coral, Amber,

collection. The Wet Domination Shower Shine is a buildable fine spray that creates shine while providing frizz and heat protection, while Extreme Splash is an elastic gel formula that provides a more intense wet-look finish without any residue or product buildup.

Big Style Up your style game with the new RUSK Mousse and Heatshift.

Candy, Lavender and Mint—offer a pearlescent finish to a diffused

Clients hoping to keep their style ever-changing can get on board with the

pastel colour with Schwarzkopf

new offerings from RUSK: Mousse and Heatshift. RUSK Mousse delivers

Professional’s trusted (and

volume to any hair type (and will even impress those flat-haired guys in

Reader’s Choice Award-winning)

your chair). RUSK Heatshift uses a crosspolymer that

Igora Royal formula.

allows clients to restyle their hair with heat tools without having to wash again, while quinoa, silk amino acids and

Get inspired with the new

hydrolyzed keratin keep hair protected. Apply Heatshift to

Pearlescence shades with

damp hair before heat styling; when your client is ready

the Schwarzkopf Professional

for a switch, they can just use their heat tool again and

Spring/Summer 2015

they’re good to go—they don’t even need to reapply more

Essential Looks on p. 54.

product. (It’s perfect for any stylist working on a photo

salonmagazine.ca

shoot for their Contessa entry!)

april.15

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19

HAIRLINES NEWS

COLOUR CRAVE Kevin.Murphy launches the Color.Me collection, marrying salon colour with good-foryou ingredients.

The brand that boasts out-of-the-box natural ingredients has just upped its own roster with the launch of the new Color.Me colour collection. Seventy-four honey-based shades grace the new collection, offering clients a natural finish with a formula that can be used for semi-, demi- or permanent colour coverage, depending on their needs.

The ammonia- and PPD-free formula also

Grow On

uses ingredients like moisture-retaining honey, shea butter and colour-protecting pomegranate, providing a natural alternative

The Redken Extreme collection

without sacrificing colour or style.

adds two new products and inches to your client’s hair.

with their styles. After you’ve given

Thirst-Quencher

them the crop they requested and

The oil craze isn’t over yet, especially once you experience

they’re yearning for their long locks

the new Joico K-Pak Color Therapy Dry Oil Spray.

there’s the desire to have that length again: the vicious cycle of your clients craving a big change

once again, pass them the two new products in Redken’s Extreme

A cocktail of Babassu, sunflower, jojoba and

non-greasy shine, leaving it lustrous and

collection—Extreme Length Primer

African manketti oils are all you need to hear

protecting colour while the bio-advanced

and Extreme Length Sealer—both of

to get on board with the newest oil launch:

peptides strengthen and nourish tired strands.

which aim to add up to six inches to

the Joico K-Pak Color Therapy Dry Oil Spray.

Even your fine-haired clients will be reaching

your client’s hair without breakage.

This lightweight mist gives hair a smooth,

for this spritz.

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: REDKEN, KEVIN.MURPHY, JOICO

There’s the big chop and then

Use Extreme Length Primer on clean, damp strands, applying from root to tip, and leave on for up to five minutes before rinsing out.

Apply the Extreme Length Sealer to the ends to help protect against split ends, allowing hair to grow and strengthen without needing that damaged hair trim.

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salonmagazine.ca

Model Hair Color: Base Level 6, Global Color 7.12 + 25vol, Highlights DBlonde + 10vol, Toner 9.23 + 10vol

Nutrilux Full Cover is formulated with innovative oil technology for permanent color results and 100% grey coverage without any ammonia.

100% Grey Coverage | Permanent Color Results | 0% Ammonia KINGDOM BEAUTY SUPPLIES LTD. BC

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HAIRLINES NEWS

Smooth & Soothe After a bitter cold winter, heal damaged strands with Aveda’s new Smooth Infusion Smoothing Masque.

Dry, curly hair can become even more parched in the cold winter months, but your clients can give their locks some TLC with the new Aveda Smooth Infusion Smoothing Masque.

It's designed to smooth, soften and tame unruly tresses with ingredients such as cupuaçu and organic shea, which help condition and hydrate dry, brittle and damaged strands. This masque also aims to reduce unwanted frizz by smoothing out

3

hair, leaving it soft and manageable.

Get ready: It’s almost time to enter this year’s Contessa Awards!

1

The Salon Interior Design category isn’t just for salons. Barbershops with a cool space worth

seeing can enter this category, too—in fact, we’d love to see more of them!

2

GREY AREA Goldwell’s new Grey to Gorgeous collection brings standout options to your grey-haired clients.

If you were the makeup or nail artist on a collection that was entered into another

Whether they’re hoping to cover up their

category, such as Canadian Hairstylist, you can

grey strands or make a bold statement with

enter that collection under the Makeup Artist or

their silver, Goldwell’s new Grey to Gorgeous

Nail Artist categories, too!

Collection and @Elumenated Naturals shades

3

create the custom coverage your clients want

You can now enter the John Steinberg Award for Community Service online and submit

images, videos and newspaper clips—whatever you have from the event that helps us see what an amazing contribution you and your salon made to your community.

and need to keep them away from the athome colour aisle. The new service provides an individualized consultation to create custom grey coverage for each client, whether they’re searching for a high-fashion no-grey shine or a natural blend with their existing grey using the new @Elumenated Naturals shades.

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: AVEDA, GOLDWELL, CONTESSA 26 FINALIST, ELITE MASTER HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR RENN VONDYCK, ÉLAN HAIR STUDIO, WINNIPEG, MAKEUP: CLAUDINE PELAEZ, PHOTOS: CASEY ANDERS, PINK ELEPHANT PHOTOGRAPHY INC.

Things You Might Not Know About Entering the Contessas

For updated rules and regulations, tips on entering and inspiration, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Contessa.

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salonmagazine.ca

t vo ea n h cu uv m ea at em eX Se r l P tu um t ur l ro t o o d P re o ry al ro eF e F te n St in Sh ct te h yl i ai ti ct in io e r o e n io n n h li g

The PerfecT hybrid STyler For unlimited look creation - neW Stylbrid 9 combineS 9 Styling beneFitS With an inviSible FiniSh that FeelS like your hair, only better.

coming may www.facebook.com/SebastianProCanada Š2015 Procter & Gamble Inc., Toronto, ON M5W 1C5 All rights reserved

HAIRLINES NEWS

Have You Heard About…?

Olaplex, a new brand in the beauty world, is creating quite the buzz.

Word is spreading fast about Olaplex, a multi-purpose brand newly available in Canada that can be used on its own or as an additive when colour-treating—especially with blonde. Free of silicones and oils, the product re-links broken bonds in the hair.

The Bond Multiplier No.1 can be added to a lightener or colour to strengthen the strands from the inside. The Bond Perfector No.2 is applied after the colour is rinsed out, to protect hair and eliminate breakage. The Hair Perfector No.3 goes home with the client and can be used once a week to boost the strength of the hair or be used as a pre-treatment to chemical colouring services.

12 REASONS TO LOVE 12 BENEFITS 1 The brand’s simple, less-is-more approach to hair care.

2 Five great products to use: Conditional Love, Instant Healthy Hair Treatment, Love Blowout Argan Oil Blow Dry Spray.

3 The Love At First Lather Moisture Balancing Mousse Shampoo, the newest product from the brand, gently cleanses tresses without stripping natural oils or colour.

4 The products are designed for any hair type and texture and cover your clients’ needs.

5 Anti-fade technology means your clients can use 12 Benefits on colour-treated hair.

6 Each product has less than 10 ingredients, so you and your clients can understand everything on the label.

7 The products contain antioxidant-rich ingredients like noni berry and oils like avocado and argan.

24

salon april.15

8 The brand leaves out parabens, sulfates and silicones.

9 All five products promise super-silky, hydrated and nourished hair.

10 Love At First Lather reminds us that it’s okay to lather and rinse (and maybe even repeat) with the right cocktail of ingredients (like plant sugars, coconut oil and sunflower extract).

11 No animal testing—ever!

12 Simple yet fun bright-pink packaging!

Ready for the first annual Revlon Professional Salon Masters party?

We’ll be tweeting up a storm!

Not only will this be one of the biggest parties of the year but Salon Magazine will be front and centre hosting a twitter party at the first annual Revlon Professional Salon Masters party on March 29 at Muzik Nightclub in Toronto. Use the hashtag #SMSCanada15 to join the party, even if you can’t be there in person to experience all the fun. Follow us @Salon_Magazine to make sure you don’t miss out on all of the pre-party excitement!

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: OLAPLEX, REVLON PROFESSIONAL, 12 BENEFITS

TWEET, TWEET!

At First Lather, Pink Addiction and Rapid

salonmagazine.ca

INTRODUCING CPR

COLOR PIGMENT REDUCER BEFORE

CPR Color Pigment Reducer

AFTER

CPR Color Pigment Reducer

Reduces permanent oxidative color pigment and metallic minerals Removes 1-3 levels of pigment without lifting natural hair color Helps preserve the integrity of the hair and cannot overprocess Antioxidant vitamin complex can be immediately followed with color or bleach

AND OTHER PROFESSIONAL DISTRIBUTORS GLOBALLY

100% Vegan and FREE OF: Gluten, Parabens, Sulfate Surfactants, Preservatives, Bleach, Odors and Formaldehyde Donors www.MalibuC.com/CPR

1.800.622.7332

HAIRLINES NEWS

Beach-Hair Survival Guide THINK green MAKE AN IMPACT,

Whether your client is jet-setting to a sunny locale or just

Reduce Your Imprint

getting ready for summer, here are some beach-hair tips with the new TIGI Bed Head Beach products.

Wella Professionals’ Hairdressers At Heart Charity Challenge brings forth a sustainable side with the #WellaCares Challenge.

USE PROTECTION Not only does your skin require protection from harsh UV rays but your hair needs it, too. The new TIGI Bed Head Beach

While your salon plays an integral role in all of

products use a UV complex to help ward

your clients’ lives, the impact it can make on

off free radicals, which damage colour-

the environment is often a daunting one. So

treated tresses.

when a heavy hitter like Wella Professionals

KEEP HAIR HYDRATED While the sun

honours the contributions some salons are

and salt can do amazing things for skin and

making to help reduce their carbon footprint,

hair, they can also dry out strands, especially

we’re all ears. This year, a new category

if your client is sitting poolside. Nix brittle

has been added to the already impressive

tresses caused by chlorine, salt and sun

Hairdressers At Heart program, giving back

exposure by prescribing the Totally Beachin’

to salons who are making an effort for Salon

Cleansing Jelly Shampoo and Mellow Aftersun

Sustainability alongside Community Impact

Conditioner for soft, hydrated hair.

in the new #WellaCares Challenge. Wella

BEAT THE HEAT Your client may be seaside bound,

Professionals is looking for salons that follow salon sustainability practices such as reducing

but that doesn’t mean their hair has to succumb to

energy, water consumption and waste by

the humidity. Hand them the Beach Bound Protection

recycling whenever possible. Voting opens

Spray for Coloured Hair, which uses sunflower seed oil

March 26 to April 26, 2015, so go online at

and grapefruit extract to keep coloured tresses vibrant, and

HairdressersAtHeart.com to vote for your

Beach Freak Detangler Spray, which uses seaweed extract to

favourite sustainable salon with #WellaCares!

keep strands smooth and resistant to humidity.

Paul Mitchell Neuro Motion Dryer

“

The coolest thing about this state-of-the-art hair dryer is the MotionZone technology. You switch the dryer on, and it switches off the moment you put it down, saving time, energy and effort.

”

–Jason Yates, vice president of marketing and advertisements for John Paul Mitchell Systems

26

salon april.15

The hair dryer turns on when you hold the barrel or the handle to save you time and effort.

Four heat settings allow you to cater to your client’s hair type and texture.

Its lightweight but powerful design allows you to get as creative as you want and makes for easy portability to photo shoots.

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE:TIGI, WELLA PROFESSIONALS, JOHN PAUL MITCHELL SYSTEMS

TOOLBOX

salonmagazine.ca

Innovations from

PROFESSIONAL LUXURY DRYER

THE FERRARI DESIGNED ENGINE WITH MAXLIFEPRO™ BRUSHLESS TECHOLOGY

FERRARI DESIGNED H I G H -T O R Q U E E N G I N E

/dannycobeauty ©2015 BabylissPRO

DANNYCO PROFESSIONAL

/dannycohair www.dannyco.com

Produced under license of Ferrari Spa. FERRARI, the PRANCING HORSE device, all associated logos and distinctive designs are property of Ferrari Spa.

HAIRLINES NEWS

ONGOING

education Industry communications vet Colin Ford creates programs for coaching and business-building.

To paraphrase the old adage “Once you’ve conquered, teach,” Colin Ford, president and professional development coach at FORDmomentum and former international director of education for L’Oréal Professionnel, has ventured to do just that by bringing his coaching and business expertise to the salon, where it’s often most needed. Ford has designed two workshops as part of his own company, FORDmomentum,

Brighten Up

Build Your Dream Team is a one-day workshop that focuses on

Eight bold shades make up the new Kenra Color Creative series.

unifying your salon’s mission across your salon staff, creating a

Are pastel shades not dazzling your colourful clients? Give them a

harmonious work environment where everyone is on the same

vibrant burst of colour with the new Kenra Color Creative series. The

page. Commanding Presence is a three-day course that helps

eight new shades, including Blue, Red, Pink, Teal, Magenta, Yellow,

you as an individual stylist push your own boundaries when it

Orange and Violet, can be used solo on pre-lightened hair for a bright

comes to speaking and inspiring and empowering others. It

pigmented finish or mixed with Kenra Color Creative White to get a

helps promote leadership and will benefit you if you’re taking

softer wash of colour. Blend the shades together to give your clients

the plunge into a career in education. To find out more, go to

a custom service that will definitely make them stand out.

which aims to help salons with business and personal growth.

Smooth Sailing A high-gloss finish isn’t out of reach with the new Unite Smooth & Shine Styling Cream.

You’ve no doubt heard this request a few times in your chair: “I want my hair to be smooth and shiny.” Well, now you can give your clients exactly what they want, both in the chair and when they go home, too. The new Unite Smooth & Shine Styling Cream uses argan oil to soften out unruly strands, leaving hair with a high-gloss shine while protecting it from heat styling.

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salon april.15

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE:THINKSTOCK, KENRA, UNITE

FORDmomentum.com.

salonmagazine.ca

The performance-obsessed STYLING COLLECTION from RUSK® Formulated with Style+Strength Complex™ provides hair-strengthening benefits, plus color protection and thermal protection.

PASTE | PUTTY | GLUE | TEXTURE | FREEZING SPRAY | ANTI-FRIZZ SPRAY | WORKING SPRAY | GLOSS WAX | MOUSSE | HEATSHIFT™ www.rusk1.com 800.USE.RUSK www.facebook.com/ruskhaircare @ruskhaircare

©2015 RUSK 15AF012533

HAIRLINES NEWS

HAIR SAVER Resuscitate lacklustre hair with the Cynos lineup of products.

Bred in Korea, one of the leading

and an intense repair

countries when it comes to beauty

serum, plus two deep

innovations, Cynos offers a full roster

treatment masks for

of products to cater to each of your

when hair needs some

client’s hair care needs. The brand offers

extra love.

shampoos and conditioners for colourtreated tresses, curly and frizzy strands, damaged and dull hair and even those suffering from dandruff and dry scalp.

Cynos also offers a leave-in conditioner

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salon april.15

SIR

MIX-A-LOT

Boost your client’s colour sustainably with the new Pravana Nevo Color Enhancer Treatment.

Mixed Chicks makes sure the guys aren’t left out with His Mix products.

Clients can go green and keep their colour

From the Clarifying Shampoo to the

a little bit longer in between appointments

Daily Conditioner that helps promote

with the new Pravana Nevo Color Enhancer

hair growth, Mixed Chicks makes sure

Treatment, the latest launch from the

that the brand's His Mix line is just for

sustainable brand. Five shades, including

the guys. Using the same formulas that

Honey Blonde, Brilliant Copper, Radiant Red,

Mixed Chicks fans know and love, His Mix

Deep Burgundy and Cocoa Brunette, use the

products, which include Firm Hold Gel

brand’s ChromaSilk Color pigments to keep

and Leave-In Conditioner, soften coarse

colour-treated tresses looking vibrant and keep

hair, making it more manageable, while

hair hydrated and strong while following the

catering to your male client’s everyday

line’s vegan and biodegradable stance.

hair care needs.

PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: CYNOS, MIXED CHICKS, PRAVANA

Green Colour Conscience

salonmagazine.ca

Unleash Your Texture Create textured styles that are uniquely yours.

INTRODUCING TEXTURE WAX 10 Delivers the unique application of a mousse with the versatility and finish of a wax Increases texture and fullness up to 242%

HAIRLINES NEWS

GO Big Give your serious male style mavens the GO 24.7 line of products.

Those male clients that always aim to look their best need a collection of products that suits their lifestyle. GO 24.7 offers a lineup of hair, body and skincare products designed for the modern gentleman who wants a little bit more from their care regimen. The newest hair product in the lineup is the GO 24.7 Pomade, which helps guys create reworkable styles, no matter what texture their hair is, and can be used on damp or dry hair for a quick style boost.

For the Guys Label.M launches its first men’s-only line: Label.Men. Guys want products that

Label.M gives them just

Invigorating Conditioner,

cater to them and give them

that: seven new products

Grooming Cream, Thickening

exactly what they need

that use ingredients

Tonic, Sculpting Pomade,

in no time at all. The new

specific to common hair

Max Wax and Deconstructor

Label.Men collection from

care concerns for men

are all formulated with the

and get every styling

EleMENts complex, which

job done in no time. The

uses ingredients like clove,

Scalp Purifying Shampoo,

peppermint and carrot root and seed oil to help boost hair thickness and hydrate the scalp.

Vote to Win! Vote for your favourite product in the fourth annual Reader’s Choice Awards for your chance to win two tickets to this year’s Contessa Awards.

Vote for your favourite beauty products in all 20 tickets to this year’s Contessa Awards gala, plus overnight accommodations in Toronto!

Not only could your favourite products take the crown but you could also win, too. Head over to ReadersChoice.SalonMagazine.ca for all the details. Voting starts April 1—you don’t want to miss it!

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PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: GO 24.7, LABEL.M

of our categories for your chance to win two

salonmagazine.ca

HAIRLINES COLOUR

RESPONSIBLE

Colour When it comes to colour lines containing naturally derived ingredients you need to know your options.

Whether your clients are interested in taking a tentative step into professional colour or are simply looking for a more eco-friendly option, many salons are offering a

colour line that has more natural ingredients. “For stylists, there are four key clients. They want to colour their hair with a natural-looking colour, some want less ingredients touching their hair, and others are afraid of colour damage, but the biggest reason is that clients want ammonia-free colour,” explains Susan Boccia, education manager for Schwarzkopf Professional. Here’s why having a colour line that makes use of natural ingreidnets whenever possible, may be a good option for your clients and your salon.

NATURAL SPECIFICATIONS replace synthetic ingredients with naturally derived ones.

For example, in Schwarzkopf Professional's Essensity line, organic grapeseed oil is a key ingredient found in the colour crème, which helps retain the colour because, “it has the same lipid proteins found in the hair structure,” explains Boccia. In addition, palm oil, which is a key ingredient in the developer, not only protects the hair, but also boosts lift power and adds shine.

BROAD SPECTRUM Even if you’re using natural colour lines you can still get a wide selection shades, from blondes to reds to more trendy

LASTING NEEDS

fashion hues. For Rebecca Gregory, director and national

For colour clients, the longevity of their hair colour is an ongoing concern,

lead educator for Organic Salon Systems, working with

especially with product lines that use natural ingredients. While some may believe

the line is an opportunity to be even more creative. “You

that more natural ingredients lead to hair colour that quickly fades, Gregory

really have to know how to formulate colour,” says Gregory

argues that this is not necessarily the case. “You’ll spend a bit more time pre-

adding that removing the colour oils from the hair in order to

treating and post-treating the hair to retain the integrity of the hair, but you’ll also

achieve maximum shine is an important part of the process.

get rich tones. You’re getting rich tones that are long-lasting,” says Gregory.

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salon april.15

TEXT: ANNA LEE BOSCHETTO, PHOTO: CONTESSA 25 SEMI-FINALIST, SESSION HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR: DAT TRAN, DAT SALON,TORONTO, PHOTO: JAVIER LOVERA

While not all colour lines are created equal, they do

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

JOIN THE MASTER CLASS In business for over 20+ years in Canada, Great Lengths continues to be the most recognized Hair Extension Brand in the world. Our supreme hair quality, industry leading education and customer service sets Great Lengths apart. We are the global leaders of ethically sourced, fully traceable, non-chemically treated hair to the professional salon industry.

We know what we do well and our dedication to improving our business helps us to maximize yours. Our aim is to focus on you, the stylist, helping expand your career and being your partner.

Visit our website to learn more about our products and view our 2015 educational seminar schedule. #jointhemasterclass

www.greatlengthscanada.com

WINNER 2012

WINNER 2013

HAIRLINES NAILS

BREAK OUT YOUR BALLGOWN

Stunning Springtime Shades

Live-action fairy tale movies have become the must-see blockbusters over the past few years. Now, with the remake of

BIO SCULPTURE Five new bright colours grace the Happy Hippie collection, including a cheerful pink and this zesty yellow hue.

Cinderella hitting the big screen this month, Gelish has launched nine soak-off shades, perfect for your client and her stepsisters, too (evil or otherwise).

From the sparkly If the Slipper Fits to the light blue Party at the Palace to the dark

LCN The Under the Sea collection inspires dreams of sunny days ahead (and maybe a beach vacation in between).

blue Live Like There’s No Midnight that recalls that dreaded stroke of midnight, your clients can relive all of the fairy tale magic—though they’ll have to find their own fairy godmothers.

The Soak-Off Removal Rules

ORLY Satisfy your sweet tooth with this juicy key-lime-inspired shade from the Sugar High collection.

No time for your clients to get their Shellac removed? Send them home with CND Offly Fast and these rules for safe removal.

CHINA GLAZE Clients looking for that longwear mani will have a hard time choosing between the five new additions to China Glaze’s Geláze soak-off collection.

No picking allowed!

Make sure your clients know that if

they can’t come into the salon to remove their Shellac, picking or peeling it off will only damage their nails. Instead, make sure they soak their nails with the CND Offly Fast Replenishing Remover and foil wraps for eight minutes or until their Shellac slides off effortlessly.

2

3

nails, grapping any flaky polish as they go. Any

on-the-go moisture) to hydrate nails and

stubborn Shellac left on their nails should be

cuticles twice daily and keep their nails

either gently taken off with the manicure stick

pristine until their next appointment.

Be patient Once their Shellac is ready to come off,

tell your clients to twist the foils off of their

or put back into the remover-soaked pad for a few more minutes.

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Condition, condition, condition

OPI Perfect for your bride-to-be clients, the new SoftShades collection offers something neutral with a touch of shimmer.

The kit comes with a mini bottle of

the bestselling CND SolarOil (perfect for

ESSIE With a happy mix of neutrals and bright floral colours to boost your mood, no garden has ever looked this good.

TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI, PHOTOS CLOCKWISE: DISNEY, BIO SCULPTURE GEL, LCN, ORLY, CHINA GLAZE, OPI, PAUL C, CND

1

salonmagazine.ca

Image courtesy: Kevin.Murphy

COLOR.ME is born from KEVIN.MURPHY’s vision of fusing session work, fashion and hair colour.

This compact colour line delivers high performance, natural looking results and optimum colour functionality.

AMMONIA FREE AND PPD FREE. LAUNCHING SPRING/SUMMER 2015

www.internationalbeauty.ca

www.TBBS.ca

Alterna, Babe, Bioelements, DS Laboratories, Dannyco, Ego, Johnny B, Kasho, Kevin.Murphy, Logics, L’Oréal Professionnel, Matrix, Neuma, One Styling, OPI, PureOlogy, Tressa, REDAVID, SpaRitual

Affinage, Alterna, Bosley Professional Strength, ISO, Johnny B, Joico, Kevin.Murphy, Mixed Chicks, Neuma, Saryna Key

11 stores to serve your professional needs in AB, SK & MB

4 stores to serve your professional needs in ON Call toll free 1.800.387.2962 or locally: 416.787.1211

Order Desk call toll free: 1.800.642.3818

HAIRLINES NAILS

7

2

9

3 5

2

6

8

TOOL

4

TIME

1

How do some of the top pros use their 2 “Shape, refine and smooth nails with CND nail files

6 Gently clean and preserve your best nail art brushes

and buffers, which should be disposed of after each

with the tea-tree oil-infused OPI Brush Cleaner.

use. Be sure to follow protocols outlined by your

7 “In my tool kit, I use the OPI Pusher Plus to gently

local health board for proper disposal instructions.”

loosen and push back cuticles from the nail plate.”

testing and compliance for OPI Inc., gave

– J.N.

– Eleanor Victor, consumer testing and

us their tips on how to keep your tool

3 “The Artistic Nail Design Sani Tongs are perfect to

compliance for OPI Inc.

kit pristine, whether you’re a nail artist

pick up small stones or charms or when you don’t

8 Use the OPI AccuNip Titanium Precision Cuticle

want to touch the wet gel.” – Dafne Fernandez,

Nipper to remove hangnails. Just be sure to wash

global educator for Artistic Nail Design

and disinfect all your metal tools before using them

4 The Artistic Nail Design Stylus Marbling Tool Kit

again. “I always have two of each tool in my kit, so

1 “Use the CND Curette for safe cuticle removal.

allows you to create nail art designs, from precision

when one is being disinfected, I can use the other.”

To prolong the life of your manicuring tools, wash

lines to intricate designs.

– E.V.

them in antibacterial soap, dry, disinfect and then dry

5 “I use the Artistic Nail Design 9 Oval Artistic Gel

9 Trim natural nails without filing and prevent

again before storing in a sealed sterilization container

Brush for gel extensions, as the flat and semi-round

ingrown nails with the Tweezerman GEAR Precision

after each use.” – John Nguyen, CND education

tip allows me to get close to the cuticle and have

Grip Fingernail Clipper.

ambassador

better control of the gel.” – D.F.

Fernandez, global educator for Artistic Nail Design, John Nguyen, CND education ambassador, and Eleanor Victor, consumer

backstage or a nail technician in the salon.

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salon april.15

TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI, PHOTO: PAUL C

tools and keep them long-lasting? Dafne

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

Sulphate-free and paraben-free formula with blend of Argan, Cyperus and Linseed oil, combined with active ingredients and UVA/UVB filters, delivers color and thermal protection.

HAIRLINES MENS

Mensthetics 101 You’ve got them in your chair for a haircut, but what about taking it to the next level with your male clients for an esthetic service, too?

Some guys are still slow to take the plunge into the world of facials, waxing and manicures. We chatted with Kristjan Hayden, creative director for Aveda Canada, and Anka Miron, owner of Mankind Grooming Studio for Men in Toronto, to get some tips and tricks on how to market esthetic services to your male clients.

Start the conversation Whether you have a designated esthetics menu or not, educating your male clients on the benefits of skincare and general grooming is important to get them to move away from the stigma that esthetics is a women’s-only area.

“One of the things that has prevented men from taking advantage of those services is a lack of awareness,” explains Hayden. “Explain what the treatment is, what they can expect from it and what the takeaway benefit is.” From there, it will be on their mind. Even if they are just in for a haircut, Miron believes that you can get them thinking about esthetics: “We’re educating them for 10 minutes [on esthetic services] before they even get their hair cut.”

Add more to the service

SPREAD THE WORD

Value-added services are small perks that you can offer your client, without compromising too much of your time or adding to their bill. At Mankind

SOCIAL MEDIA

Grooming Studio for Men, Miron incorporates a paraffin wax and hot towel

Make sure you hit all the main social media channels

treatment at the beginning of each haircut appointment, which Hayden also

to get your name out there so that guys know there are

says is a great way to get guys thinking about extra esthetic services. “We put

services available for them, too.

condition their hair. When we take off the towel, it wipes off the cleanser. Then we add a bit of moisturizer and explain which products we used.” In addition to skincare, Hayden recommends grooming add-ons like eyebrow trimming, and Miron suggests straight-razor shaves.

Cultivate trust When it comes to getting your male clients to branch out into the world of esthetics, whether it’s facials, waxing or pedicures, the most important thing

WHAT’S IN A NAME? Create a service menu that speaks to men. When it comes to facials and waxing, consider naming particular services that will really reach guys, such as the “Foot Detailing” pedicure at Mankind Grooming Studio for Men. To begin with, keep the service simple, but let your male clients know that they can add on services as they become more comfortable.

is gaining their trust. Both Hayden and Miron agree that trust is the turning

THE GIFT THAT KEEPS ON GIVING

point where the client will try something new if they’ve been on the fence,

For salons and spas that offer services to both men and

even when it comes to take-home skincare products. “When I start introducing

women, bring in more male clients (and keep them

Aveda skincare products to [male clients] I start with one product to see how

coming back) by creating gift packages that some of

they like it and then you can build trust with them,” explains Hayden. “When

your female clients can give their men or that your

they come back, I start introducing other things, but it comes down to trust

existing male clients can add to their haircuts for a

and education.” For Miron, creating a guys-only space was the key to cultivating

reduced price. Some guys may be too shy to come in

these relationships with her clients: “They’re more open and comfortable, they

on their own, but not many people will turn down a

feel in their element and they’re not shy to share their experience.”

gifted facial.

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salon april.15

TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI, PHOTO: ANKA MIRON

a little Aveda cleanser and a hot towel over their face while we shampoo and

salonmagazine.ca

In one simple step, Bio-Cleansing Conditioner’s Emulsion Co-Wash Method

™

gently cleanses and conditions without opening the cuticle and stripping hair.

That’s less time at the bowl, less color running down the drain and less blow-out time.

Distributed in Canada exclusively by Modern Beauty Supplies. 1-877-5MODERN | 1-877-566-3376 | www.modernbeauty.ca

©2015 unwash.

Save color. Save time. Save hair.

HAIRLINES NEWS HOLD ON Johnny B Smash Spray provides all-day hold without the sticky residue and won’t weigh down even fine-haired lads. johnnybhaircare.com

EDITOR’S PICKS

Hand-selected picks just for men.

BEARD ENVY Guys style their hair, so why not their beards? The Billy Jealousy brand makes sure those beards don’t get left behind with products like the light-hold Beard Control. billyjealousy.com

GREASE HEAD This wax- and oil-based pomade allows you to rework your style with the non-greasy Reuzel Grease Medium Hold. reuzelpomade.com

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LUMBERSEXUAL NECESSITIES Once your client’s beard starts to grow, it’s time to make sure that it’s conditioned, too. Clubman’s 2-in-1 Beard Conditioner uses coconut oil and soy protein to hydrate and strengthen, giving skin a bit of a boost, too. clubman.com

DEFINITION OF STYLE Create texture and define your guy’s style with the new Macadamia Professional Whipped Detailing Cream. This oil-based styler keeps locks soft while you style away. macadamiahair.com

TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI, PHOTO: PAUL C

CLIP, CLIP Want to give your guys the ultimate style? The new BaBylissPro HighFrequency Pivot Motor Clipper is a powerful barbering tool that provides precision cutting, no matter what kind of hair your client is rocking. babylisspro.com

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

RE VE AL RARIT Y

A Diamond’s timeless reflection inspires pure illumination of light and color focus, magnifying the brilliance and eternal beauty of April’s birthstone.

Artistic Collection: Jewel KENR ACOLOR.COM

Add these key expressions to your men’s hairstyling vocabulary this season—“the barbershop experience” and the “lumbersexual”—and be on track with the hottest spring 2015 look for men.

ccording to the specialists we spoke

trickling down to all major cities and attracting many

with, this stylistic evolution in men’s hair

different types of clients as well. Witness this year’s

comes as a clean break from the matte

Contessa Fan Favourite award, which was scooped

finishes and scissors-over-comb cutting techniques

up by Matty Conrad of Victoria, B.C., for his men’s

we’ve seen so much of in the past five years. Add a

collection with a barbershop vibe.

dash of hipsters-mad-for-vintage and you’ll create a

However, April says it’s more than a trend but rather,

craving for the perfect blade cut reminiscent of the

“a way of life”. Think of all the paraphernalia, including

50s and 60s rockabillies, while boasting loads of über-

tattoos and piercings, that originally supported this

masculine facial hair.

change in aesthetics and further extended to salon

Back to the roots

decor, including dark woods and man-cave appeal.

“Right now, there’s a steep increase in demand for classes specifically addressing barbering techniques,” says Martin April, owner of the barbershop-inspired Salon Léopold in Montreal, and educator for MensDept. and Reuzel, a brand created by Schorem,

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salon april.15

“

”

The barber of 2015 is the DJ of 2005.

— Charles Vaillancourt, owner of Cordial Barbier, Montreal

the titans of the old-school barbershop trend that tend

Tooling around

court in the Netherlands. “Essentially, stylists are

“Anyone who calls himself a barber needs to have

eager for a new skill-set that had been lost because

at least one excellent clipper, if not more.” says Pete

practically no one was cutting hair with clippers

Goupil, a barber at Salon Espace C in Brossard, Que.,

and blades anymore. And you just can’t do a proper

and international educator at All Star for American

shadow fade [where sideburns and nape gradually fill

Crew. “As well, seven-inch shears and some good

in] without these haircutting tools,” points out April.

combs are essential. Personally, I have nothing

The barbershop trend took off three years ago in

against cutting guides for clippers, but if you’re talking

edgy, urban salons in Rotterdam, the Netherlands,

about the traditional art of the clipper cut, I only use

and New York but is now gaining momentum and

it without one.”

PHOTOS:THINKSTOCK, CONTESSA 26 SEMI-FINALIST, SESSION HAIRSTYLIST OF THE YEAR: PETE GOUPIL, SALON ESPACE C, BROSSARD, QUE., STYLING: FLORENCE O. DURAND, PHOTO: BRIAN YPPERCIEL

By Yasmin Grothé

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

Who is the Lumbersexual?

Following in the footsteps of the metrosexual and the übersexual, the lumbersexual is the new male icon of the moment. Rugged and virile, he sports a manly beard, is beefed up, wears leather boots and a checkered shirt (yup, all the stereotypes are there…) and has climbed his way through the most influential fashion and hairstyling blogs.

Follow Pete Goupil on Instagram @petegrey for more tips and inspirational pics.

The Schorem guys —which, by the way, means “scum” in English—who are the high apostles of the barbershop style, will be touring Canada in March.

Strong-hold gels and shine pomades are

MensDept. and Reuzel in its portfolio. These

create the perfect shape, and finishing is also

also essential in creating these new hairstyles,

brands have made an indelible imprint in

extremely important in the barbershop trend.

which have much more detailing. Wide, clearly

creating and promoting this style.

I recommend avoiding round shapes because

defined parting is also an important aspect of

Technically speaking

they tend to look feminine,” continues Goupil.

“Even if [as stylists and barbers] we each

were not being well served by big, trendy,

the barbering trend. We’ve essentially moved away from matte, feathered looks achieved with clays and dry pastes to slicked finishes that have holding power and leave a superb, gleaming finish.

“But the new styling products are what really have helped popularize the barbershop style and ultimately made it accessible,” confirms David Tremblay, marketing and communications

program

manager

for

Cosbec, a Quebec distributor that has Label.M,

salonmagazine.ca

have our own style, I swear by the American Crew barbering techniques. I think they’re the easiest and more efficient ones. But what really helps me achieve the best look for each client is to visualize the steps I will take before I start cutting the hair,”says Goupil. It’s a sensible approach since, the art of barbering is all about details and enhancing your client’s best features. “A great barber knows how to

Over the years, some say that male clients unisex salons, and that’s the number one reason why the barbershop is in style again.

For others, it’s just the trends pendulum swinging back full throttle to the sources of the traditional men's-only salon. In fact, at Schorem, women aren’t allowed and the space has all the manly attributes of the classic man cave.

S

april.15

salon

45

Manly Manes The obvious companion to that new rockabilly coif? A perfectly groomed beard, naturally. Whether they’re sporting a two-week shadow or a more robust and voluminous version, here’s what to keep in mind for your clients.

By Yasmin Grothé

E

SHAPE SHIFTER Here are three tips for complementing your client’s face shape.

TIP

A clipper comb and a small moustache comb are very useful to finish the style you will be creating.

1

Elongate a round face with a beard that extends beyond the chin.

2

Create the illusion of stronger features on a small face, by shaping

ssentially, you need to apply the same rules to beard

a beard with

grooming when you’re cutting hair, and that means

square edges.

matching the shape of face. “The trick is to enhance or

downplay certain features with facial hair,” says Charles Vaillancourt, owner of Cordial Barbier-Coiffeur in Montreal. The one tool you absolutely need is a great clipper. The best pros in the business (yes,

3

Soften a strong

we’re talking about the Schorem guys, who are practically the gods of

jaw—one that’s

the barbershop category) swear by the Wahl Ultimate Pro clipper with

too square—

changeable blades. “I also use six-and-a-half-inch shears for creating

by giving

nice straight lines and shorter scissors for finishing the moustache,”

the beard a

says Vaillancourt.

rounded shape.

Evolution of the ‘stache in the coming months. According to the barbershop experts, the lumbersexual look will trickle down to the masses and, hence, become less desirable for the early adopters, who are at the forefront of the latest looks. “The next big thing will be very groomed facial hair reminiscent of the 1920’s, with a thinner, more refined moustache and,

–

everyday grooming routine to keep facial hair soft and supple take a look at our Editor’s Picks on page 40 for a selection of our favourite products on the market right now.

Pete Goupil, a barber at Salon Espace C in Brossard, Que., and international all-star educator for American Crew, says that

eventually, the buck ‘stache,” says Vaillancourt. You’ve been warned!

beard grooming is what separates barbers from other stylists. He

The maintenance

weeks. “I start by cleaning the edges of the beard, then brushing and

recommends trimming your client's long beard every three to four

Like all hair, beards and moustaches require daily upkeep to maintain

combing it before shaping it with the clipper. I do this at least three

their impeccably groomed look. Your clients will need to wash and

times to have a nice, clean outline,” explains Goupil. For everyday

moisturize their facial hair with a mild shampoo for a soft and lustrous

maintenance at home, he suggests American Crew’s 3-in-1 shampoo,

texture. A good conditioner or beard oil should also be part of the

conditioner and body wash, a boar-bristle brush and a beard oil.

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PHOTO:THINKSTOCK

Like everything that’s trendy, the moustache will definitely evolve

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Clear the air “Our air purification system, which takes air that has been inside and pumps filtered air back into the salon, helps reduce dust and odours, to create a continuously

Light the way

refreshing environment.” —F.V.

“In our retail and reception area, we have LED lighting and, in one of our locations we are switching the feature light and in one staircase over to LED.” —Felice Valvano, Valvano Salon,

ByOntario Anna St. Catharines,

Lee Boschetto

Living art “We constructed a living wall that not only feeds off CO2 emissions and provides fresh oxygen, but also supports our salon’s mission to contribute to the sustainable relationship between plants and humans.”

—Chantelle Pasychny, designHouse Salon, Victoria, British Columbia

“We’ve implemented changes that remove harsh chemicals from the salon and we’re using an ammoniafree organic colour line. We try to offer options with less ingredients for our clients and they love the results.“—Christine Singh Gaglia, ONE Salon & Boutique, Toronto

Sustainable Space Matters From floor finishes to lighting to reception areas, salons, including award-winning designHouse, co-owned by Chantelle Pasychny and featured here, are on the edge of an eco-evolution.

By Anna Lee Boschetto

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PHOTOS COURTESY OF DESIGNHOUSE

Colourful consciousness

salonmagazine.ca

The Impact of Going Green

Doing good work “Each year, designHouse Salon participates in Davines Sustainable Beauty Week, an initiative supported by more than 80 Davines salons in North America that raises money to

By being a part of Green Circle Salons, you're helping to divert

support the planting of fruit trees in impoverished villages.” —C.P.

86,651lbs No paper trail “We have gone completely paperless. We

of waste from landfill spaces and water streams

installed an extra computer system with a large screen to make it easier for everyone to log in and check client information. This was a huge deal, but it has also cut down significantly on our expense.”—F.V.

Funds raised for Aveda’s Global Greengrants

$

9

million

78

for more than 1,300 grants in

Recycling program “We’ve taken steps to work with our local

countries

recycling programs and really find ways we can reduce our waste on a local level.

For instance, all staff are responsible for breaking down boxes and packaging into a certain dimension and we have an area in the salon that’s set up for this purpose, so that everyone knows the standard.”—F.V. “Through Green Circle Salons, hair clippings are collected, recycled and crafted into hair booms, which are used to clean up oil spills along the Pacific coast.”—C.P.

739,000 lives have been impacted as a result of Aveda’s project

920 watersheds worldwide have been protected

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STYLE Refinery With a carefree look and feel, here is a breakdown of the best hair trends straight from the Spring/Summer 2015 runways.

Plus, the hairstyling pros offer their product picks for achieving these styles in the salon.

By Jillian Wood

LACKADAISICAL LOOPS

RETRO REWIND

interesting shapes and colourful accessories. Play with finishes for a bold new take on a classic.

TOPKNOTS Alice and Olivia’s headscarf twist (Schwarzkopf Professional), Carolina Herrera’s sumo-inspired loop (CHI) and Elan+Castor’s bound-up bun (Redken).

HINT For the ladylike buns at Alice and Olivia, Michael Dueñas prepped hair with Schwarzkopf Professional OSiS+ Grip Extreme Hold Mousse for control and shine before braiding a scarf into the ponytail and wrapping it into a bun with pins. He set the look with Schwarzkopf Professional OSiS+ Elastic Flexible Hold Hairspray.

HINT Jorge Joao used Redken Pillow Proof Blow Dry Express Primer

Channel the ’70s this season with hippie ringlets, big bouncy blowouts and cool but casual centre parts inspired by the decade of sex, drugs and rock and roll.

CURL QUEENS DVF’s Bardot-inspired blowouts (CHI), Jeremy Scott’s natural boho curls (Wella Professionals) and Jill Stuart’s relaxed retro curls (Moroccanoil).

HINT Lead Stylist James Pecis created waves at Jill Stuart by applying Moroccanoil Root Boost over damp hair and Moroccanoil Volumizing Mousse at the roots. After blowdrying straight, he wrapped one-inch sections around a 1 1/4-inch curling iron, setting

Sculpting Gel for control before wrapping floral fabric into the ponytail’s

each wave with a clip. Once cool, the hair was brushed out and Pecis

elastic. He twisted the ponytail into a bun, pinned it om places and set

applied a dime-size amount of Moroccanoil Curl Defining Cream to

the look with Redken Control Addict 28 High-Hold Hairspray.

smooth ends and add a bit of texture around the face.

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▼

for his sleek ponytail, adding Redken Hardwear 16 Super-Strong

PHOTOS COURTESY WIREIMAGE FOR CHI HAIRCARE, SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, STEPHEN CHURCHILL DOWNES FOR MOROCCANOIL

Buns get an interesting twist this season with windswept flyaways,

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AVAILABLE AT

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w w w.fhiheat.com ©2015 FHI HEAT. All Rights Reserved

HUGE HAIR It’s time to get out your extensions! If Vogue said 2014 was the era long, thick ponies and braids or big, brushed-out curls.

MAIN MANES Michael D’s brushed-out curly bob (Redken), Stella McCartney’s crimped pony (Wella Professionals), Baja East (Unite) and Cushnie Et Ochs’ long, structured pony (Moroccanoil).

HINT Kevin Ryan created a wide, undone braid for Baja East using ends on damp hair before drying hair. Then he backcombed the

MIXED MEDIA

roots and gathered all hair into a loose, low ponytail before using

The popular “wet look” style has morphed into a wearable matte

Unite Expanda Volume on the roots and Unite Beach Day on the

forceps to pull out sections and create a reverse braid. Next, he sprinkled Unite Expanda Dust throughout the roots to create oily texture (to contrast the rough ends) and finished with Unite Tricky Spray for a matte texture.

HINT According to Eugene Souleiman, the secret to keeping Stella McCartney’s huge crimped ponytails sleek is to apply two to three pumps of Wella Professionals LuxeOil Reconstructive Elixir before

shine finish this year. Play with sleek roots and tousled ends for a modern take on texture in 2015.

FRESH FINISHES Zac Posen’s wet and wild texture (Kérastase), Soia & Kyo’s shiny roots (Redken) and DKNY’s playful, wispy ponytails (Wella Professionals).

HINT Eugene Souleiman created sleek yet wispy flyaways for

blow-drying hair. After random sections of dry hair were crimped,

DKNY’s ponies and braids by pulling out some wisps of hair at the

hair was smoothed down again with a few more pumps of LuxeOil

hairline with a fintail comb, before applying Wella Professionals Sculpt

Reconstructive Elixir before hair was gathered into a ponyail at the

Force Gel with a tint brush, sculpting the flyaways into waves with his

nape of the neck and set with Wella Professionals Stay Essential

fingers. He then dried the gelled hair with a diffuser and finished with

Finishing Spray to tame flyaways.

Wella Professionals Stay Essential Finishing Spray.

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PHOTOS COURTESY OF UNITE, REDKEN, KÉRASTASE, WELLA PROFESSIONALS, WIREIMAGE FOR CHI HAIRCARE

of the big booty, 2015 is the year of the super huge strands. Think

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FREE SPIRIT FEMME Recalling inspiration from music festivals around the globe, we take an up close look at the Pearlescent Girls, one of the three trends from Schwarzkopf Professional’s Spring/Summer 2015 Essential Hippi Glam and Rok Chik.

t

Looks, which also includes

Photos courtesy of Schwarzkopf Professional

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IN PARTNERSHIP WITH SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

Collective Style Take a look behind the scenes at the making of Schwarzkopf Professional’s Spring/ Summer 2015 Essential Looks Collection.

With U.K. native Damien Carney taking the helm of Schwarzkopf Professional’s North American Creative Team and Ontario-based Rossa Jurenas recently appointed as the brand's North American Color Director, the pair teamed up to create the Salon Looks of the Spring/Summer 2015 Essential Looks Modern Style Collection in Hamburg, Germany. Capturing the radiant vibe of the new IGORA ROYAL Pearlescence colours, marks the first time that Carney and Jurenas have worked together. We sat down with the duo and found out more about their collaborative styles and why they think hairstylists (and their clients) will love these iridescent shades.

Capturing the Trend Once we analyzed the trends from Spring/Summer 2015 fashion weeks, we then came together and looked at the IGORA ROYAL Pearlescence colours and realized these fashion hues including, Cotton Candy Pink, Mint, Lavender, Amber, Coral and Tangerine can all be created with Pearlescence.

For our inspiration, we looked at the key trends from the runways of London, Paris, New York and Milan . After we digested the ideas of design, colour, texture, we applied the concepts to hair cutting, stylin g and colouring techniques. When I see each fashion season, I get very excited at what I can bring to the world of hair, including new colou rs, shapes and textures. —Damien Carney

Then Lesley Jennison and I came up with the colour techniques and patterns to showcase these amazing shades. —Rossa Jurenas

Celebrity Style We are seeing these colours on celebrities, for example at The Grammy’s we saw Katy Perry with pearlized colour. Kelly Osbourne continues to reinvent soft lavender making it part of her signature style and blondes have been sneaking in soft pink hues for several seasons. Colour is going this way not only for celebrities, but also for clients who want to wear and live in these hues.

—Rossa Juraneas

In the Salon Pearlescense provides the tools for hairstylists to create unique looks and services for clients, and not just blondes. Pearlescence has tones specifically for darker levels, which means that the options are endless and this is what we tried to illustrate in the collection. Pastel and pearl shades are on the rise and going mainstream for summer. —Damien Carney

We both work ver y azingly well together.

Damien and I work am together because fun putting the project hard yet always have enas Jur a oss —R er. we balance each oth

Who They Are The Pearlescent Girls trend may have started with music festival go-ers, hipsters and fashion bloggers, but it still reflects the different types of clients we see in our salons. Each one has a different hair type, texture, face shape and personality. Each look incorporates cut, colour and finish in a fresh, directional way and all are easily adapted for any client around the world. —Damien Carney

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I’m a great believer in surrounding yourself with the right talent. Rossa is more than an award-winning colourist. Her philosophy, approach and vision are a perfect match for me. Her range of colour application, technique and knowledge is mind-blowing.

Every head she touches simply looks amazing.”

salonmagazine.ca

t

—Damien Carney, Schwarzkopf Professional North American Creative Director

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Having a colour line like Pearlescence benefits your salon and your clients. The range of colours is both multi-tonal and soft with pearl-like effects. Plus, the longevity, versatility and shine of these colours are outstanding. It’s an exclusive and customizable colour line.”

—Rossa Jurenas, Schwarzkopf Professional North American Color Director

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Masterful blending and rich colour bring these looks to the head of the class.

Primary

Colours

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Finalist, Contessa 26 Master Colourist of the Year: Timothy Switzer, Timothy & Co Salon and Spa, Whitby, Ont. Makeup: Cody Alain Styling: Matthew Chow Photos: Suzanne Teresa

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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Photos courtesy of Revlon Professional

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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With This With wedding season nearly upon us, the inspiration from the Yes, I Do 2 collection breathes sophistication and international flair.

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Ring... april.15 salon

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Natural, undone, effortless.

These guys make laid-back look so cool.

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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KINGS OF cool april.15

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Hair: Uros Mikic, Kinky Curly Straight, Stepney, Australia Makeup: Anita Rutter Styling: Mojca Bizjak-Mikic Photos: Karla Majnaric

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Semi-Finalist, Contessa 26 Men’s Hairstylist of the Year: Tyana Nichole, Ignite Hair & Beauty Lounge, Vancouver Makeup: Tyana Nichole Photos: Niko-Lux

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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MILITARY MAN An update to the classic crew cut brings these soldiers into the modern world.

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Hair: Sarah Mak, Zinc Hair, Vancouver Makeup: Minjec Mowat Photos: Yang Yu

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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Even closely shaved elements can create movement in this men’s collection.

BLUE MOVEMENT salonmagazine.ca

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MISTER SOPHISTICATED The guys in this collection remind us of why we love the men’s grooming trend so much.

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Finalist, Contessa 26 Men’s Hairstylist of the Year: Jacob Rozenberg, Moods Hair Salon, Vancouver Makeup: Allison Giroday Styling: Tony Vous Photos: Liz Rosa

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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PRIMAL INSTINCTS 74

An animalistic look in this collections brings a high-fashion quality to its raw and rugged appeal.

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Hair: Reto Camichel, Reto Style Lounge, Cape Town, South Africa, and Naomi Davids, Platinum Salon, Worcester, South Africa, Intercoiffure South Africa Makeup: Natalie Collins Styling: David Lerouw Photos: Igor Polzenhagen

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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SAY KONNICHIWA! to the su

mmer color collection fro m Gelish and Morgan Taylo r. Inspired by Japanese street style, Hello Pretty! features bright pops of pink, adorably cute purples and a little bit of fun for everyone.

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FRESH

PRINCE Retro elements in cut and style give this collection a '90s vibe.

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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Semi-Finalist, Contessa 26 Men’s Hairstylist of the Year: Michael Gibson, Michael Gibson Hair for Style Lab Headquarters, Vancouver Styling: Michael Gibson Photos: Shimon Karmel

Feminine influences, including a pastel hue, lend a minimalist boyish charm.

pretty boy

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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IT’S EARTH

MONTH! JOIN OUR MOVEMENT AS WE CHALLENGE THE

STATUS QUO everyday in Canada & the US we needlessly rinse roughly 42,000 lbs of hair dyes down the drain, and throw 400,000 lbs of recyclables into landfill.

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CONTESSA GALLERY

Contessa 26 Finalist, Men’s Hairstylist of the Year

Mikka Bitangcol started at Ricci Hair Co. in Edmonton after completing hairstyling school and credits the city's budding downtown scene with her inspiration for her men’s collections.

1

KEVIN.MURPHY NIGHT.RIDER

Bringing the look away from sleek and polished, this helped create more textured styles.

When putting together her men’s collection,

“Instead of a really polished pretty boy, we

which is titled Manimal, Mikka Bitangcol

wanted something a bit roughed up for the

opted for a primal, animalistic look that

overall look.”

focused more on the hairstyling aspect

Leader of the pack

instead of the barbering and grooming techniques that have begun to dominate the men’s category.

Coordinating a men’s collection can appear more laborious, but to execute her full vision, Bitangcol pulled additional inspiration from

Theory of evolution

men’s fashion magazines and street style.

For Bitangcol, creating this collection

“There was a lot

meant bringing out her inner animal and

of menswear that

experimenting with prints and textures, both

was showing

in styling and hair. “I even tried colouring

animal prints,

fishnet stockings to get a snakeskin print

fur, raw patterns

on the side of [the model’s] head; that shot

and different

didn’t work, but we ended up shooting the

textures,”

other side of the bun instead.” Refocusing

which allowed

her vision, Bitangcol turned to a favourite

Bitangcol to

men’s style, the man bun, which evolved

bring a high-

from a sleeker ponytail into something a bit

fashion feel to

undone while incorporating leather elements.

her shoot.

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This allowed Bitangcol to create a grittier, more matte finish by roughing up the end of the man bun.

S

3

KEVIN.MURPHY TEXTURE.MASTER

To set the man bun in place, Bitangcol sprayed Texture.Master, which helped create volume while incorporating an animalistic, tail-like feel.

TEXT: ASHLEY KOWALEWSKI, HAIR: MIKKA BITANGCOL, RICCI HAIR CO., EDMONTON, STYLING: MIKKA BITANGCOL, DANIELLE BARBEY, PHOTO: TONY RICCI; INSPIRATION PHOTO: KEYSTONE PRESS AGENCY

Mikka Bitangcol

2

KEVIN.MURPHY ROUGH.RIDER

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SALON PROFILE

Blazing the Trail With more than six decades in the business of hair and style, Trevor Sorbie’s creative innovation has shaped the industry. Now the hairstylist who brought us the Wedge and Scrunch, shares his thoughts on education along with a project that offers him new rewards.

By Anna Lee Boschetto

TS: In this industry, the youth of today see so much more than what I thought was possible, but they want to be successful

Salon Magazine:

tomorrow. My success wasn’t overnight.

visual side of what’s being demonstrated,

Explain your view

It takes years of training, growing and

but also what is verbally said, which can be as

of hairstlying?

getting better, to reach the pinnacle of your

inspiring. To be able to get inside somebody’s

Trevor Sorbie:

profession. That’s what I try tell young people:

head, you have to stimulate them, and I think

Hairstyling is

This is not an overnight affair. Hairstyling can

the combination of visual and verbal is the

twofold: It’s about

be a job, it can be a career, or it can be your

message that I try to give in my classes.

cutting clients hair

life. I chose the life sentence.

that’s what keeps

SM: Tell us about your charitable venture.

popular look?

us fed, but the real

TS: When my sister-in-law went through

TS: The Scrunch is timeless. I took my client’s

passionate side is

chemotherapy, she asked me if she would

hair in my hands, put the hairdryer right into

creating things that have never been done

design a wig for her and I did. When she put

the fist full of hair and kept it held tightly until

before. It's about coming up with an idea that

it on, looked in the mirror and cried tears

it cooled down, then I shook it out. I got so

excites you, but just as importantly excites

of joy, a big penny dropped in my career. I

much volume, and that excited me. I thought

other people, and when they look at it, they

began customizing wigs for people going

I would try this [technique] out on different

think, “Wow, that’s different!” That’s my

through chemotherapy. Now with my charity,

types of hair and it worked every time. I did it

driving force.

My New Hair, I train 15 hairstylists each

in 1980 and I can still walk down the streets

month in this service. I’ve trained over 600

in London and see women with their

SM: Did you always know you would be at a

hairstylists in the U.K. and I have plans to take

hair scrunched.

top level in the industry?

the project internationally with the help of

TS: Not at all. I don’t think you ever think that

L’Oréal Professionnel. I don’t make one penny

SM: Where do your creative ideas

you are going to climb to the top of the ladder.

doing this, but what I get in return is far more

come from?

But it is one step at a time. I worked with my

valuable than money.

TS: When I was young and I wanted to be an artist—I wanted to paint. I guess, in

father, as a barber for five years and I actually quit because I was bored. When I decided

SM: You often speak about the importance

a way, hair is my medium rather than paint.

to go back to it, I knew I was going to do

of education. What’s the best part of being

I don’t know where I get this creative force

women’s hair.

involved with an event such as Joico’s

from. When I created the Wedge in 1974, I

Destination Education?

said to myself, “If I can do that once, I could

SM: What do today’s hairstylists need to know

TS: I think what’s important about any

do it again.” I'm in competition with myself

about success?

education program is that it’s not only the

more than anything.

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PHOTOS COURTESY OF TREVOR SORBIE

SM: What do you see as your most

every day, and

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

PRO FE SSIO NAL NAI L L ACQ U ER

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W E N

PRECISION APPLICATION

SPRING SUMMER 2015 C O L L E C T I O N The Venice Beach 81’ Collection is inspired by the Company’s founders Tony & Roby’s vision of creating a world class beauty brand which has transpired into Cuccio first beginnings on the boardwalk back in 1981.

GOOD VIBRATIONS 6143 MUSCLE BEACH 6141 PINK CADILLAC 6140

CALIFORNIA DREAMIN’ 6145 ROLLER SK ATE! 6147

A STAR IS BORN 6146

SOUL SURFER 6144

MIMES & MUSICIANS 6142

16-piece

Counter display

10-piece mini lacquer kit 6261

KIT CONTAINS: 8 - 1/8 oz. of each of the Venice Beach 81’ full collection + base & topcoat.

6-piece mini lacquer kit 6254

ALSO AVAILABLE IN MINI MATCH MAKERS™ & 13 ml.

MATCH MAKERS™!

KIT CONTAINS: 6 - 1/8 oz. Cuccio Colour nail lacquer shades: Good Vibrations, Mimes & Musicians, California Dreamin’, Pink Cadillac, Roller Skate! A Star is Born.

IMPACT

OPEN STOCK .43 OZ Pink Cadillac Muscle Beach Mimes & Musicians Good Vibrations Soul Surfer California Dreamin’ A Star is Born Roller Skate!

6140 6141 6142 6143 6144 6145 6146 6147

6140-LCAP 6141-LCAP 6142-LCAP 6143-LCAP 6144-LCAP 6145-LCAP 6146-LCAP 6147-LCAP

Summum Beauté I nt e r n a t i on a l

SALON SALES

Impact Salon Sales 6A Legend Tr., Stony Plain, AB T7Z 0B1 1-800-661-4271/780-963-5412 www.impactsalonsales.com Email info@impactsalonsales.com

AVAILABLE WITH REGULAR CUCCIO CAPS – 6230 LED LIGHT CAPS – 6230-LCAP (2 of each shade per display)

Fernanda’s Beauty and Spa Supplies 5080 Timberlea Blvd Unit 39 Mississauga, ON L4W 4M2, 1.800.862.1447 www.fernandas.com

VENUS Beauty Supplies, Ltd. 7400 Pacific Circle, Mississauga ON L5T 2A4 Office: 905.564.0470 Fax: 905.564.0408 www.venusbeauty.com

Summum Beauté International T. 450.678.3231 #332 1.800.361.3739 F. 450.678.3537 4400, boul. Kimber, st-Hubert, Québec, J3Y 8L4 www.summum.com

SALON BUSINESS

Retail Mandate Your male clients are loyal to their look and style.

Here’s how to make them equally committed to regular retail buying.

While your female clientele want multiple choices, selling to your

Keep it simple

male clients is a whole different ball game. “Guys need more

For men, products need to get the job done, plain and simple.

education, but you can’t be pushy,” says Jason Culala, owner of OGX

“You’re not getting them to buy a bundle of styling products,”

in Toronto. For Matty Conrad, owner of Victory Barber & Brand in

explains Conrad, who offers his male clients a single product

Victoria, B.C., successful retail is a matter of employing a less-is-more

as opposed to offering three or four options. At the same time,

approach. “We are authentic in our approach,” he explains, adding

Culala says that product loyalty is high for most men, which

that the surge in men’s desire to look well groomed will continue to

means that if you get them committed, you’ll have a regular retail

strengthen retail. Here’s how to walk the line and really give the boys

following. “They don’t like to change their routine much, so you

what they want, no questions asked.

just need to be straightforward in your approach.”

Say what you mean

Take stock

Similar to determining their cut or style, figuring out a man’s product

As Culala explains, sometimes taking a laid-back approach is

needs is all about the consultation, especially with first-time clients.

best. “I tell them the product is here and they can come back.”

Functionality is at the forefront for Conrad, who has been a Contessa

At the same time, you need to have the right products on your

winner, including snagging the inaugural Fan Favourite Award at

shelf when they do return. Conrad says that offering men a

the 2015 Awards Gala. “Guys need results, they need to know that

brand that coincides with the same look and feel of your client

the product is doing something and they want to see an immediate

base is essential. “You really should refine how you’re using the

outcome,” explains Conrad. He says that giving clients instant

products and take time to understand the process of styling,

satisfaction, which means making everyone look slick and sharp

which can sometimes be overlooked,” says Conrad. When it come

when they walk out, is all the reinforcement you’ll need because

to choosing products, both Conrad and Culala say that having

they’ll be back to find out which product they need when they hear

options for different hair textures, including something

the compliments coming.

for thinning hair is essential.

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PHOTOS: OGX

By Anna Lee Boschetto

salonmagazine.ca

SAY

YES TO

NO SUBSTITUTIONS NO LIMITATIONS NO IMITATIONS Discover the Wax that Started a Revolution.

GiGi All Purpose Honee is the #1 professional wax. It is perfect for all skin and hair types and instantly leaves skin sleek, smooth and hair-free without added fragrances.

Join our social community for exclusive giveaways and the latest tips ‘n tricks from the leader in hair removal.

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AHEAD OF THE CURVE gigispa.com

SALON INTERIORS

Details: Opened in 2014 Design: Roy Banse Design Space: Approximately 1,200 square feet

Brands: TO112 L’Oréal Professionnel Pureology Redken Wella Professionals Pravana Website: medullaco.com

PHOTOS: MEDULLA & CO.

Team: 8 in total, including Luis Pacheco 5 hairstylists 2 colourists

See more photos at SalonMagazine.ca

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Natural Luxury Medulla & Co. in Toronto marries a conscious approach with a luxurious feel.

By Ashley Kowalewski

W

hen it came time to opening his own salon, Medulla & Co., in the Queen West neighbourhood of Toronto, owner and hair colour vet Luis Pacheco created a space that merged his

two worlds of beauty and yoga: “We married a conscious lifestyle with a luxury one.” Having worked in the industry for two decades, including his notable post at Hair on the Avenue in Toronto’s swanky Yorkville area, Pacheco was able to develop and hone his reputation before branching out and opening Medulla & Co. last year.

The aim for Medulla & Co. was a space that brought a sense of natural harmony to the world of beauty. As Pacheco explains, “Trying to minimize exposure as best we can without forgoing results,” by choosing to go ammonia-free for people who are becoming more and more conscious of ingredients. The lifestyle salon has an open and airy feel when you walk in and incorporates wood elements to create a natural and grounding feeling that breathes balance.

While the design elements were calculated in their meaning, the overall idea for the space came very naturally to Pacheco. While darker than the front styling area, which encompasses soft white walls and light wood fixtures, the colour bar had a plan. “In the colour area, we tried to focus light where we needed it most.” From the decorative elements to the lifestyle and retail area of the salon, each component brought in a sense of balanced harmony that was equal parts mathematical and instinctive. “People are just naturally drawn to something like this. It’s about being open and connecting.”

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E H T N I T GE AME G

Give your favourite beauty product a jump on the competition by voting in the Salon Magazine Reader’s Choice Awards!

is year’s h t o t s t wo ticke 8, 2015, t in W O T CHANCE vember o R N U , O Y Y a d R n O ronto! n Su o o T VOTE F a l in a s G n a Contess ht accommodatio rnig plus ove

VOTING BEGINS APRIL 1 AT

READERSCHOICE.SALONMAGAZINE.CA

NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. Contest sponsored and administered by Salon Communications Inc. (“Salon”). Contest open to Canadian residents, except residents of Quebec, who are of age of majority at time of entry in province/ territory of residence. To enter, you must complete entry form located online at ReadersChoice.SalonMagazine.ca. Limit of 1 entry per entrant. Contest begins at 9 a.m. EST on April 1, 2015, and ends at 5 p.m. EST on April 15, 2015 ( “Contest Period”). One random draw from all eligible entries will be conducted by Salon at approximately 12 pm EST on April 21, 2015, in Toronto, Ontario. Odds of entry being selected depend on number of eligible entries received during Contest Period. Subject to fulfilling all Official Contest Rules & Regulations, including mathematical skill-testing question and signing a release, the selected entrant will be eligible to win two (2) tickets to the 2015 Contessa Gala, plus overnight accommodation in Toronto in a double occupancy room, approximate retail value CDN $600. Airfare not included. Certain restrictions and conditions apply. Complete rules available online at: ReadersChoice.SalonMagazine.ca. Contest void where prohibited or restricted by law.

SALON EVENTS

Redken Symposium 2015 What: Over 10,000 beauty professionals headed to Las Vegas from January 25 to 27 for the three-day biannual education event, Redken Symposium 2015.

Who: The weekend was packed with classes and panels led

by Redken celebrity colorist, Tracey Cunningham, Redken master colorist, David Stanko and other lead Redken artists.

Redken education artistic director, Kris Sorbie, hosted a live stage show depicting the Worldwide Color Movement.

Highlights: The education event covered all of the latest products and innovations that Redken will be launching and the brand introduced their new Redken Symposium 2015 app, which made the experience even more interactive.

When and where: January 25 to 27 in Las Vegas PHOTOS COURTESY REDKEN CANADA

salonmagazine.ca

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SALON EVENTS

ISSE Long Beach 2015 What: Beauty Professionals flocked to the biggest beauty expo on the West coast, the Professional Beauty Association’s International

LOCATE A DOCTOR YOU TRUST AT

ELEVATEMAGAZINE.COM

Salon and Spa Expo in Long Beach, California.

Who: The expo was packed full of seminars and demonstrations from industry leaders like Ted Gibson, Adam Tran, Nicholas French and Beth Mindardi.

Highlights: Some of the big players present were Sexy Hair, Olaplex, 12 Benefits and FHI, each with interactive booths where attendees were able to explore new product and tool launches and speak with brand representatives.

When and where: January 24 to 26 in Long Beach, California PHOTOS COURTESY OF PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY ASSOCIATION

FROM REPUTABLE COSMETIC SURGEONS TO DENTISTS TO DERMATOLOGISTS, WE HELP YOU FIND AN EXPERT YOU’LL LOVE.

THE

BEAUTY

FINDER FIND DOCTORS AND PROFESSIONAL SKINCARE PRODUCTS ACROSS CANADA!

SEARCH NOW! 94

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CHERRY BLOOMS AUSTRALIA Cherry Blooms’ all-natural and hypoallergenic “Brush on Fibre Eyelash Extensions” are changing the way women maximize their lashes. This groundbreaking product promises up to 300% longer and thicker lashes, leaving you with luscious Hollywood lashes in 60 Seconds!

Get the hottest product on the market today. Available exclusively in Ontario & Quebec through Nova Beauty.

Salons & Spas, register online at: www.cherrybloomsontario.com

Wella Professionals Discovery Tour What: Showcasing Wella Professionals TrendVision fall/winter collection along with Sebastian Professional’s Totemic collection the evening, also gave professional hairstylists an introduction to Color ID including a variety of colour techniques. In addition,

800-663-6103 www.cherrybloomsontario.com

guests were also able to experience Nixion. Wella Professionals also recognized the achievements of Hairdressers at Heart.

Who: The evening included presentations from Wella Professionals’ Paul Nasrallah, Rodrigo Araneda, Jean-Sebastian Tremblay, Sebastian Professional’s Sabrina Simone and Daniel Di Tommaso, as well as a presentation from Nioxin.

BRANCH OUT

When and where: January 10 in Toronto PHOTOS COURTESY OF WELLA PROFESSIONALS

Help Plant Our Urban Forests

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SALON EVENTS

Lucian Matis Annual Fashion Luncheon with Schwarzkopf Professional What: The lobby of the Shangri-La Hotel in snowy Toronto was transformed into a swanky runway show for Lucian Matis’ annual Fashion Luncheon on February 4th. Paul Pereira lead the team of stylists to create the look for the show, combining three of this season’s biggest trends: ponytails, parting and braids.

Who: As Pereira’s fourth time collaborating with Matis, he describes Matis as “very visual, so a lot of the Matis’ designs

finishing, and the “let’s go with that one” happens the

juxtapose structure and

day of.”

movement, and the

Highlights: In order to adapt to last minute tweaks

hair reflects this with

and changes, “you have to pick a team that’s flexible—

the textured braids and

at the end of the day, we’re here to support [Lucian].”

smooth silhouette of the ponytail.

When and where: February 4 in Toronto PHOTOS COURTESY OF SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL

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SALON SCOOP

1 THE BIG CLIMB

Maurice Fiorio, founder and CEO of Fiorio and Canadian spokesperson for Revlon Professional, climbed Mount Kilimanjaro to hold the Guinness World Record for World’s Highest Altitude Haircut. At the age of 65, the salon magnate got himself into shape to attempt the 19,300-foot summit to perform the world’s highest altitude haircut using Revlon Professional Style Masters products.

DROP DEAD GORGEOUS HAIR See the latest in hairstyles from the planet’s top stylists and premiere salons.

2 #NoHairSelfie

For World Cancer Day on February 4, Ray Civello, CEO and president of Aveda Canada and founder of Civello Salons & Spas, had his five-year-old son, Corrado, shave his head in support of the Princess Margaret Cancer Foundation. As a cancer survivor himself, Civello was happy to be part of the #NoHairSelfie campaign to help raise awareness and support for this foundation.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF REVLON PROFESSIONAL, AVEDA, KEVIN.MURPHY, UNITE, FINA COBURN

3 Moving Up

Cutter and Stiles/Kevin.Murphy has announced its new chief marketing officer, Dawn Blackstone. Bringing with her a wealth of experience in positions such as vice-president of marketing and chief marketing officer, Blackstone will help grow Kevin.Murphy and head marketing initiatives for new launches to come.

Renowned hairstylist Paul Stafford has been appointed as the senior artistic director for Unite. The British Hairdressing Hall of Famer will be working alongside Unite’s education team to help develop educational events, alongside the brand’s offerings.

After spending 20 years in the industry training and spotting up-and-coming talent, Gina Coburn has joined the EvelineCharles team as the new salon director. Focusing on education, coaching and leadership, Coburn will help develop the immense talent within the salon team.

OOPS! • In the March issue “Boost Your Creativity” (p. 54), makeup artist and beauty expert Cheryl Gushue’s name was spelled incorrectly.

• The Nioxin Minoxidil Hair Regrowth Treatments for Men and

A new issue every month

• full-page photos • behind-the-scenes secrets • audio interviews Download today for free at SalonMagazine.ca/Salon-Lookbook

Women were featured in the March issue, however this product is not available in Canada.

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SALON

BY THE NUMBERS

Green Light From water consumption to energy-saving, here are some environmental and eco-conscious stats and tips to take with you to your salon.

6,043,151 Tonnes of waste disposed in 2010 from non-residential sources in Ontario

ACCORDING TO STATISTICS CANADA, SALON WASTE IS A BIG DEAL. HERE’S HOW IT ALL BREAKS DOWN.

42,122

% 10 5.5% 6,000 Amount of waste disposal reduced from 2008 to 2010 from non-residential sources in Quebec

Amount of waste disposal reduced from 2008 to 2010 from nonresidential sources in Ontario

pounds of hair colour

63,180 109,512 pounds of hair clippings

pounds of foils and colour tubes

WATER

21 million

Number of people WaterAid has reached with clean water since 1981 with Aveda Canada’s support Average daily domestic use percapita in Canada

35

%

320 litres

Amount of daily water used by showers and baths in the home (imagine how much you’re using in the salon)

10,000 litres

Amount of water per year wasted with one drop per second from a leaky pipe

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66 %

nt of Amou en ed wh v a s y energ from h c it you sw t bulbs to escen g incand lightin nergy -e w lo n lo a s r in you

Number of trees planted in South America from contributions from Davines’ 2012 Sustainable Beauty Week fundraising

Amount of trees Pravana has planted in Brazil to reforest ingredients used the brand’s Nevo products

19,000

salonmagazine.ca

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