Salon Magazine, April 2013

Ce 20lebr Ye ati ar ng s!

6

GlobAl Guy HAir Trends

men Are they

Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

better clients?

All About Men spotlight on...

Add to your men’s biz with colour, nAils And wAxing… mAking your sAlon mAle-friendly… top stylists shAre cutting And styling tips… plus! get reAdy—contessA 2014 entry form AvAilAble now!

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Together. A passion for hair

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IGORA ROYAL TRUE COLOR IN HIGH DEFINITION TRUE | VIBRANT | LASTING

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Want to discover true color?

Call 1-800-463-3081 for a distributor near you or find us on facebook. *IGORA ROYAL Voted #1 Permanent Color – Salon Magazine Reader’s Choice Award, 2012

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MORE THAN A COLOR, A WONDER OF LIGHT See the light with our most advanced color science in 20 years.

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NO OTHER PREMIUM PROFESSIONAL PERMANENT COLOR LEAVES HAIR CLOSER TO VIRGIN HAIR.

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*color after color, versus next biggest global competitor © 2013 Procter & Gamble Inc., Toronto, ON. M5W 1C5

1-800-267-1962 All rights reserved.

ENTRUST YOUR BEAUTY TO PROFESSIONALS

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CANADA’S SUCCESS STORY! Matrix Canada’s newest permanent hair color is taking over the nation.

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DASHING DIVA INSPIRATION ALERT!

CONTRASTING VIEWS Opposites attract this season in a collision of eye-catching patterns and designs that play off each other in an energizing pop of fashion. Now whether building a bold overall concept or adding a splash of style, composing contrasting statements for fashionistas on the fly is quick and easy with Dashing Diva. DesignFX puts you in front of the trend while helping you dream up limitless looks. It goes on in minutes and removes in seconds without acetone.

And styles dazzle for a week on natural nails, or up to two weeks with a Gelife™ overlay.

Inspiration starts at a Dashing Diva design center, located at a professional distributor near you.

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From small beginnings, you’ve achieved big things. Who ever thought it was possible? We did, and we see even bigger things to come.

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HAIRDRESSERS AT HEART.

april.13 salonmagazine.ca features 48

taking the pulse on style Everything you need to know to offer male clients the very best for 2013.

50

the right cut

52

global style

56

the ultimate guide to shears

While more men than ever are going to the salon, what attracts them might be surprising.

American Crew’s Face-Off finalists share their looks, techniques and insight into men’s trends from around the world. Plus, the winning style!

A glimpse behind the scenes at choosing your most important tool.

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collections Holly Scanlan, April Allen, Natalie Murray and Rachel Robertson; Lenelle Davis and Edwin Johnston; Michelle Pargee; Chris Mullen and Calum Tierney; Kaliope Thomas; Schwarzkopf Professional Essential Looks; James Pecis for L’Oréal Professionnel; Matthew Conrad; Pete Goupil; Caffery VanHorne; Phillip Elliott; Charlie Price for Scruples

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lenelle davis and edwin johnston

on our cover: Hair and Styling: Caffery VanHorne, Toronto Photo: Peter Tamlin

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METAMORPHOSIS OF COLOR 6 NEW SHADES • 1 TRANSFORMATIONAL NEW TOP COAT! GELCOLOR BY OPI MATTE TOP COAT

EURO CENTRALE COLLECTION SHADES

Mysterious. Stealthy. Edgy.

For velvety colors and oxidized shimmers that fly under the radar.

Six new shades that fuse the classic with the contemporary.

.

GelColors from left to right: Polka com Glitter Coat, OPI...Eurso Euro, You’re Such a BudaPest, Can’t Find My Czechbook, My Vampire is Buff, OY–Another Polish Joke!

MODEL IS WEARING GELCOLOR BY OPI CAN’T FIND MY CZECHBOOK, GELCOLOR MATTE TOP COAT & GELCOLOR TOP COAT ©2013 OPI Products Inc. Call 800.341.9999 or visit opi.com

regulars

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ediTor’s leTTer

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Hairlines

In the Grooming Department p. 27; All Man p. 27; Freshly Pressed p.27; The Race to the Contessas p. 28; Cutting 101 p.28; Fab and Full p.28; Green Corner: Celebrate Earth Month p.29; Light and Blonde p.29; Protective Stylers p.29; Celebrating 20 Years: Then & Now p.30; The Making of a Nail Tech-Friendly Bottle p. 30; It’s Okay to Play Favourites p.30; Toolbox: BEX Professional Heat Deep Crimper p.32; A New Way to Mask Hair Loss p.32; Both Feet In p.32; Men’s Faves p.34; Shades of Subtle p.36; Tool Kit Essentials p.38; Nail Care for Him p.40; Nails: Pink and Posh p.42; Esthetics: Taking It All Off p.44; Editor’s Picks p.46

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ConTessa gallery

Tool kiT

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CuTTing 101

publisHer’s noTe This month at SalonMagazine.ca

Contessa 24 Finalists: Frank Cini, Elite Master, Jeff Bernardini, Men’s Hairstylist, Sound Salon Spa, Canadian Salon Team, Johnny Cupello, Elite Master

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THe rigHT CuT

86

Jerry’s Hair salon and day spa, winnipeg

82

proFile

The Accidental Hairstylist

84

business

Why Men are Better

86

inTeriors

Private Affair

89

sCoop

90

eVenTs

98

lasT look

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pink and posH

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Pure Pigments Conditioning Cream Color

• Saturates each strand with rich, even, long-lasting color • Leaves hair looking and feeling smooth, shiny and healthy • Over 70 shades with unlimited possibilities Now introducing 6 NEW Intense Ash Shades Offer cool results without unwanted warmth Visit www.rusk1.com for a salon near you Professionals call 800.USE.RUSK for more information @ruskhaircare www.facebook.com/ruskhaircare ©2013 RUSK 13AF140458

Available at:

EDITOR’S LETTER

Are you looking For A docTor? seArch The BeAuTy Finder!

Browse Elevate Magazine’s professional directory for doctors and high-end skincare products across Canada!

Where the Boys Are

F

or the last month, I’ve been surrounded by men. Talking about guys, writing about products for them and thinking about their hair—all for this April Men’s Issue. I’ve even had to hang

out at not one, but two photoshoots this month with some gorgeous male models, including our own cover guy, Ben Lee. It’s definitely been a rough time. I’m sure you can all feel my pain.

In all seriousness, though, the best part of putting this issue together has been realizing how diverse, interesting and creative men’s style can be. Today, versatility is the name of the game and current trends support this, with styles men can wear many different ways.

With me above is Caffery VanHorne, our reigning Contessa Men’s Hairstylist of the Year (with back-to-back wins!) and the man responsible for Lee’s oh-so-cool look. VanHorne styled it three radically different ways—straight, curly and with a high quiff, which you can see on our website. He’s proving that with a little bit of product and a great cut, men’s hair can be just as interesting as women’s.

And men are proving to be better clients to boot! We write about that on page 84. A short synopsis: they’re loyal, visit more frequently and are more likely to buy product. What’s not to like about that?

We’ve interspersed more male-friendly content throughout the issue—from ways to boost your men’s waxing business to predictions on men’s colour. In the features section, you’ll find better ways to market and merchandise to men, a look at trends from around the globe, plus, we jet over to Japan for a behind-the-scenes look at how your shears are made.

And finally, if you really love men—or their hair, anyway—consider

facebook.com/ElevateMagazine twitter.com/elevatemagazine elevatemagazine.com

This year’s entry form, rule and regulations are all available online now at SalonMagazine.ca!

Melissa Hill Editor-in-Chief

PHOTO: PETER TAMLIN

To locate a doctor in your area scan here or visit the Beauty Finder on elevatemagazine.com

entering this year’s Contessa Awards for Men’s Hairstylist of the Year.

Find me on Facebook at Facebook.com/SalonMag or email me at Melissa@SalonMagazine.ca.

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salonmagazine.ca

MR GEEK

MR SPORTY

MR LOUD

MR POLISHED ONE RANGE. MULTIPLE LOOKS. PLAY YOUR CARDS RIGHT.

publisher’s note issn 1197-1495 volume 22 issue 5

s a l onm a ga z i ne . c a

Editor-in-chiEf

Melissa hill 416.869.3131 ext.102 melissa@salonmagazine.ca group Art dirEctor

gillian tsintziras 416.869.3131 ext.106 gillian@salonmagazine.ca Editor-in-chiEf (frEnch)

Yasmin grothé 514.553.4404 yasmin@salonmagazine.ca AssistAnt Editor

Valerie Lam 416.869.3131 ext.119 valerie@salonmagazine.ca onLinE Editor

Jillian Wood 416.869.3131 ext.112 jillian@salonmagazine.ca dEsignEr

Y

stephanie Macdonald 416.869.3131 ext.113 stephanie@salonmagazine.ca

Sustainable is Beautiful

AssistAnt to thE chAirMAn

pam fulford copY Editor

Jennifer d. foster contributors

Marissa stapley-ponikowski, chris tsintziras group pubLishEr

Laura dunphy 416.869.3131 ext.110 laura@salonmagazine.ca AssociAtE pubLishEr

ears ago, Aveda asked us to fill out a document about our

Jade bateman 416.869.3131 ext.120 jade@salonmagazine.ca

green sustainability practices. It was a little daunting, as we

sEnior Accounts MAnAgEr

samantha Anobile 310.926.9288 samantha@salonmagazine.ca

didn’t have a formal policy. Once we worked our way through

Account ExEcutiVE

the lengthy document, a few things became clear. Happily, we were

Megan Jeffery 416.869.3131 ext.220 megan@salonmagazine.ca

doing a lot of things right: printing on Forest Stewardship Council (FSC)

production MAnAgEr

paper, using vegetable ink and recycling in the office. But it also provoked

Alan swinton 416.869.3131 ext.111 production@salonmagazine.ca

me to review our policies and to make a more conscious corporate effort

Karren han 416.869.3131 ext.118 karren@salonmagazine.ca

opErAtions MAnAgEr

to being green.

circuLAtion MAnAgEr

target Audience Management inc. t. 905.729.1288 f. 905.729.0227 salon@mysubscription.ca

Ten years later, I have to say hats off to Aveda for being the trailblazer of the movement in the beauty industry. Today, so many companies have

finAncE

Aylin Aykul 416.869.3131 ext.114 accountant@salonmagazine.ca

green policies and take sustainability quite seriously. Green has become

ExEcutiVE businEss AdMinistrAtor

mainstream and expected, and embraced by Redken, Matrix and

candice besselaar 416.869.3131 ext.108 candice@salonmagazine.ca

Pureology, as well as Joico, Schwarzkopf Professional and Goldwell.

chAirMAn

brian Light 416.869.3131 ext.104 brian@salonmagazine.ca

One of the biggest challenges in going green for most salons is

VicE-prEsidEnt & WEst coAst Editor

figuring out how to get started and then making it a habit. That’s where

greg robins 604.561.4971 greg@salonmagazine.ca

we come in! Starting with this April issue, the Green Corner in Hairlines

subscription rAtEs for cAnAdA 1 year (8 issues) $40.00 + tax 1 year (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 HST included. Canadian orders only, must be to same location for us 1 year (8 issues) $50 USD

is where we’ll share the latest trends, tips and ideas you’ll need to keep sustainability in the salon, front of mind.

Green Circle Salons is a company that offers a recycling program to

A d d rEss ch A ngE s Email: salon @ mysubscription.ca

salons, and is also responsible for recycling all the waste at the L’Oréal

fax: 905.729.4432 or send your cover label and new address to: salon Magazine Subscription Services

Canadian salon industry sustainable by 2020. Being green is good for business too. Robert Barbosa at Toronto’s Salon Escape, and Green Circle customer, can attest to that. “Clients were really impressed when we told them about our green initiatives. We not only make our clients beautiful, we want to keep the earth beautiful and we have to do our part.” he says.

I’m always interested in your feedback. Let’s talk green!

Laura Dunphy Publisher

Photo: alvaro goveia, makeuP: lanagmakeuP.com

Toronto Academy and hair shows. Green Circle’s mission is to make the

phone: 905.729.1288

PO Box 357, Beeton, On L0G 1A0 Canada sA Lon M AgA Z inE

365 Bloor St. E. Suite 1902 Toronto, On, M4W 3L4 t. 416.869.3131 f. 416.869.3008 641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada Ltd.)

Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation Department, Salon Magazine, PO Box 357, Beeton, ON, L0G 1A0 Canada

National Magazine Awards Gold

Silver

2008 2003 2002 1998 1995

2009 2003 2001 1997 1996

Top Five

2009 2008 2002/2001 2000/1999 1996

Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 40011270

Printed on recyclab

This magazine is recyclable.

Please recycle where facilites exist.

The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

printed in C A n A DA

From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail salon@tamicirc.ca.

Our privacy officer is Brian Gillett at 905.729.1288.

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®

©2013 Joico Laboratories, division of Piidea Canada Ltd, Pointe-Claire QC H9R 5N3

HAIR Damien Carney

COLOR Sue Pemberton

PHOTO Hama Sanders

HEADS.

JOICO.COM COMPLEXE PEPTIDIQUE

BIO-AVANCÉ

www.facebook.com/JoicoCanada

We asked, which male celeb do you think is always the best groomed?

Here’s what you said:

53% Ryan Gosling 27% 20%

Bradley Cooper David Beckham

Most Read Online The top stories from the past month on

Online exclusive collections in April include:

SalonMagazine.ca

Saco Creative Team, Marc Antoni, Janer Stewart and Natalie Ward.

1 2 3

Three must-see things on SalonMagazine.ca this month: Reader’s Choice Awards voting starts April 12! Have your say and tell us which salon product you can’t live without!

We’re getting ready for Contessa season! Check out our helpful hints for entering at SalonMagazine.ca/Contessa and get a behind-the-scenes look at the making of an entry.

And don’t forget to check out Salonmagazine.ca/Videos this month. We’ve got plenty of new videos from events and photo shoots with hairstylists from around the world!

talk to us!

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7 Ways to Combat Salon Burnout

Spring 2013 Nail Art Trends

Schwarzkopf Professional’s Top Four Trends for 2013

Hair: Saco creative team led by ricHard aSHfortH, makeup: maxine leonard, Styling: Serena gill, pHoto: david oldHam, celeb pHoto: keyStone preSS agency

It’s A Man’s World

facebook.com/SalonMag twitter.com/Salon_Magazine pinterest.com/SalonMagazine s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

BELIEVE IT: YOU CAN LIFT HER * UP TO 8 LEVELS, 20% FASTER Great new technology, great price.

Higher Lift: Up to 8 Levels Unbelievably Fast: Develops 20% faster than V-Light Protects Hair Fiber: Contains conditioning Panthenol Very Versatile: Master every technique

on-scalp (up to 30 Vol.), off-scalp (up to 40 Vol.), highlighting (up to 40 Vol.) (no heat)

*Versus V-Light

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hairlines news

hairlines news

ALL MAN Keep your male clients happy with a distinct line that’s just for them. TIGI’s Bedhead B For Men collection of products is just the ticket.

Charge Up shampoo and conditioner offer thickerlooking hair, while Clean Up shampoo and conditioner help with healthy-looking hair and scalp. Finish with one

In the GroomInG Department

of four styling products for ultimate versatility: Power Play Firm Finish Gel, Pure Texture Molding Paste, Matte Separation Workable Wax and Multi-Tasking Grooming Cream.

Introducing Mensdept., a professional, urbane group on a mission to meet today’s unanswered needs that men have about the landscape of grooming. In addition to offering a combined salon/academy for education and marketing programs in a live salon setting in Minneapolis, founders David Raccuglia and Kurt Kueffner have also formulated a smart set of products, including a shampoo, conditioner, grooming

photos: model photo courtesy mensdept., product photos: chris tsintziras

creams, gel, clay and paste.

Freshly Pressed Fix Men, the products engineered for men, is now available in fresh, new packaging to suit the busy, modern man. Packed with minerals, vitamins and proteins that seal in moisture, protect against environmental stressors and strengthen the hair shaft, the product collection also leaves guys smelling great without the fuss. Simple and effective, the collection includes a conditioning shampoo and body wash, daily thickening shampoo, gel, clay, texturizing paste, styling wax and shaving foam.

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hairlines news

The Race to the Contessas Four things you need to know about entering the 2014 Contessa Awards.

1. Download the New Entry Form.

Go to SalonMagzine.ca/Contessa to find everything you need to get started, including the updated rules and regulations. This year, all entrants will be required to submit either a Polaroid or unedited

cutting 101

digital shot of each look from the photographer, in addition to a version submitted for competition.

Enhancement Artist) categories.

We’ve added a brand-new category just for you: Extensions Hairstylist of the Year. Judged on how

jWin one of two Sassoon

Academy advanced courses!

naturally and seamlessly extensions are integrated into a style, you’ll submit three different looks

Exclusively for Salon Magazine readers, we’re

on three different models, with before and afters for each. Check out the entry form for details!

giving away two Sassoon Academy Toronto classes—a five-day ABC Cutting course (valued

The deadline for this year’s entries is Thursday August 1 at 5 pm. Entries may be submitted by mail, in-person or, for the first time, online at SalonMagazine.ca/Contessa. The awards gala will be in Toronto on November 10, 2013.

at $1,435) and a three-day Men’s Barbering course (valued at $890).

The Men’s class is designed to deliver an intense introduction to this lucrative and invigorating aspect of hairstyling, leaving

Last Contessa season, we followed Vancouver-based stylist and past winner, Dana Lyseng, as she

you skilled in cutting, styling and finishing

put together her entry.

techniques for men. The ABC Cutting class is devoted to the cornerstone techniques for

Check out Dana's journey and see what advice she has to offer in this exclusive video on SalonMagazine.ca!

all Sassoon-trained stylists, allowing time to perfect lines, graduation and layering.

Go to SalonMagazine.ca/Contests to enter to win! The entry deadline is May 1, 2013.

A new line from Italy promises a fix for damaged strands

Fab & Full

Stamiker by Dikson offers a range of treatments that transforms clients’ hair to beautiful, touchable textures. The Newgen Shampoo is made with plant stem cells and keratin that regenerate hair, and can be used on all hair types. To remedy damaged and weakened hair, the Newgen Mask works in tandem with the shampoo to intensively strengthen the hair fibre’s structure. For clients with treated, coloured or damaged hair, Newgen Deep Treatment leaves the scalp and hair hydrated and nourished by regulating the lipid balance. To maintain the results of the deep treatment, Newgen Final Touch is a serum that creates silky strands.

To boost the appearance of hair fullness, Newgen Densifying Touch fills out the hair shaft, texturizing from the root to the tip.

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Photos: clockwise: contessa 24, Finalist, Quebec hairstylist, hair: soPhie tessier, MakeuP: JenniFer DaviD, Photo: Patrick st. arnauD, courtesy sassoon acaDeMy, chris tsintziras, oPPosite Page: chris tsintziras, courtesy golDwell

There are also changes to the Texture Hairstylist and Canadian Nail Artist of the Year (formerly Nail

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

hairlines news

green corner

Celebrate Earth Month Looking for a way to make a difference this month?

Try one of these projects.

Light and Blonde

Green CirCle SalonS’ reCyCle a Penny…

Plant a tree.

During the month of April, Green Circle member salons are collecting leftover pennies to help plant trees. To join the campaign or get more info, call 877-424-3327 or email info@greencirclesalons.ca.

aveda’S liGht the Way Candle For more than six years, Light the Way candle purchases and donations have raised more than $6 million to help Global Greengrants Fund support hundreds of clean water projects around the world. This year’s candle includes packaging art created by children in Madagascar, who benefitted from one of those projects.

Protective Stylers Joico adds new stylers, Design Works Shaping Spray, Texture Boost Dry Spray Wax, Humidity Blocker Finishing Spray, Super Shine Glossing Polish, Flex Control Pliable Paste, Style Reform Matte Clay and Matte Grip Texture Cream.

Heat-activated restyling power, protection from humidity and frizz and a restorative protein formula are fully channelled into these new

Goldwell introduces SilkLift Lightener, a new

additions, so stylists can expect the same

high-performance service for highlights and

superior results.

full-head applications. The “strong” lightener lifts up to seven levels or up to five levels without ammonia in the “gentle” lift. SilkLift promises clearer results with the anti-yellow technology in the lightener and additional hair care with the intensive conditioning serum concentrate. Clients can expect luxurious-feeling hair from the conditioning cream developer formula that replaces missing lipids in the hair for a glossier finish with even results. The developer is also available in 3, 6 and 9 per cent.

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hairlines news Cover: March 1997

Celebrating 20 Years Men’s Hair: Then & Now

Colourist: Kelly McCarthy, Donato Salon and Spa, Mississauga, Ont. The Look: “We wanted to have hair that was wild and fun, representing the ‘90s. I did a straight colour for him because we wanted to make it darker.”

Then: “I had been with Donato for five years and was still new to doing photoshoots. As an apprentice, John Donato would take us on shoots with him, but I hadn’t done a lot of hair like that myself.”

Now: “I’ve been at Donato 20 years and now I’m in the salon parttime as I’m pursuing work on commercials and TV. I honestly love seeing my work on TV and knowing that people across Canada or the U.S. are watching and seeing it.”

On Men: “Back then, men wanted bolder colours. Now, they don’t want to totally embrace grey, but they also don’t want to look like they’ve coloured their hair. They want a blended, softer look.”

Take a trip down memory lane with us each month, as we look back at favourite Salon Magazine covers from the past 20 years and find out where the cover artists are now.

Venique, a new line of one-coat nail lacquer, is formulated with a silicone ingredient that expands and contracts, minimizing chipping and prolonging a client’s mani. It’s also good for the nail tech, with a bottle designed especially with you in mind.

Each shade is true-to-the-bottle The squared

colour, making it

bottom allows a

easier to pick the

better hold on the

right one—and be

bottle, while the

happy with it.

rounded sides

WINNER

…when it comes to the Reader’s Choice Awards—Voting begins April 12!

Make sure your product picks don’t get shut out in the cold. Vote for them all in Salon Magazine’s 2nd annual Reader’s Choice Awards. This year, there are 15 categories from which to make your picks, including

let you easily roll

Favourite Styling Product, Oil, Nail Lacquer

it back and forth

and more.

before application.

Starting April 12, go to ReadersChoice.

SalonMagazine.ca to check out the categories, see the products and register

The width of the brush is refined and tested, ensuring

The base of the cap

your vote. But hurry—voting closes on May 3.

the right size for both nail

is flared to ensure a

Winners will be announced online and in the

tech and client use.

good grip.

July/August issue of the magazine.

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photo: chris tsintziras, hair: paula giganti, donato salon and spa, mississauga, ont.

The Making of a nail Tech-friendly BoTTle

It’s Okay to Play Favourites

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The Original Vitamin C Prescriptive Treatments performing hair | reforming scalp | transforming skin 100% Vegan

wellness beauty collection

C the Difference: Brighter Blondes Blazing Highlights Longer-Lasting Color More Vibrant Hues Receptive to Color/Bleach/Texturizing Stress-Free Corrective Color Body & Bounce Shimmering Shine Repair Damage Flake-Free Scalp Itch Relief

Soothes & Improves the Appearance of Skin Affected By: Acne Age Spots Dryness Eczema Fine Lines Keratosis Sensitivity Skin Tags Sunburn Tattoos Wrinkles

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HAIRLINES NEWS

TOOLBOX BEX PROFESSIONAL HEAT DEEP CRIMPER Van Hong, Cityline makeover artist, loves the versatility of this tool, which can be used for avant-garde styling or everyday for tremendous root lift.

A NEW WAY TO MASK HAIR LOSS SureThik offers a variety of uses, including one that can really help your male guests For male clients with thinning hair, SureThik just might be a handy, noninvasive option. Made of super-fine, organic keratin hair fibres that cling to the hair, it quickly gives strands a thicker, filled-in appearance, says educational director and hairstylist Nevio Persia. One $30 retail bottle will

Far-infrared technology creates even heat distribution with temperatures up to 415 °F in 60 seconds.

last for a month of daily use. “Once a man starts to use it, he’s hooked for life,” says Persia. Try offering it to male clients during the consultation process, before a shampoo. Persia says most will ask for it again at the conclusion of the service.

Try this healthy add-on for your pedicure clients

The DetoXSoak by Cuccio Naturalé offers a one-kit solution for salons to build their spa services. Made with The crimped, extra-deep, 1” plates are specifically designed for ultimate volume and texture that’s easy to use.

herbal ingredients to soak in all the benefits of nature, the DetoXSoak service de-stresses and purifies feet in either a stand-alone service or incorporated with the regular pedicure.

Send clients home happy with a foot massage using the Somatology Extraction Massage Serum, included in the kit.

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salon april.13

PHOTOS: CLOCKWISE: CHRIS TSINTZIRAS, ,THINKSTOCK, SURETHIK. CUCCIO

Both Feet In

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Redken’s Clean Brew extra cleansing shampoo eliminates grit and oil in hair and scalp.

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Men’s Faves

A best-selling sampler for each of your guys Revlon Style Masters Creator Fiber Wax and Matt Clay give ultimate structure and hold.

Indie Hair Putty Clay is packed with botanical ingredients that goes on like a putty and sets like a matte clay.

Clients will love these American Crew stylers for their strong hold and top performance.

Play Back from the Matrix Design Pulse line locks in shape memory. Add more for increased texture.

Eufora equips the leading man with Hero for Men,, offering a grooming cream without stiffness or stickiness.

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salon april.13

Kérastase Homme Capital Force shampoo reinforces hair density.

Wella Professional’s Rugged Fix is applied like a paste to create and manage edgy definition and hold.

For all hair types, Goldwell Dual Senses for Men Refreshing Mint Shampoo simply reinvigorates hair.

Taming Elixir

by Sebastian Professional offers a serum formulated with avocado oil.

TEXT: VALERIE LAM, PHOTOS: CHRIS TSINTZIRAS

Schwarzkopf Dust It is a stylist’s go-to product for refreshed styles that finish with a matte texture and instant volume.

salonmagazine.ca

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resort collection 2013

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Shades of Subtle

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What men want when it comes to colour You Say.............

Much like women’s colour, the most requested look for men right now is natural. Gone are the days of chunky blonde highlights, in favour of simple shades, mostly designed to blend away grey. Michelle Pargee, owner of Milica SalonSpa in Langley, B.C., estimates that 15 to 18 per cent of her male clients get colour, while 90

e

per cent of female clients have it done. “It’s still an untapped market,” she says, although it has strengthened

“Most of my clients ask for lowlights, more pepper than salt. Natural & cooler tones as opposed to warm

over the years. “When I worked in the ’80s, maybe one man in 100 had something done colour-wise.” Here

tones.” — Llisa Spidle

are four tips for approaching colour with male clients.

1. Keep it cool.

e

“At Twisted Banana Hair Studios in

hair coloured don’t want to look like it,” says Pargee. Phillip Elliott, of Chrome Hair Design in Calgary, agrees.

Sherwood Park, Alta., we have a

“The biggest thing I’m doing is grey blending; nothing too bright or in-your-face,” he says. “The moment you

large percentage of male clientele.

introduce any kind of red tones, it starts looking a little artificial.”

When colouring they ask for the full spectrum. Some are looking for

2. (Natural) Ombre is for men, too.

funky & fashion forward panels of

When a client wants something natural, but a little different, Elliott resorts to something he likens to shoe

colour. Some look for a more natural

shining. “Instead of highlights, I get the hair standing up and then just dust the ends with colour. It’s a kind

look, blending & covering grey. Quite

of ombre,” he says. The key is keeping the service short. “Anything that takes longer than 15 minutes [to

typically when blending or covering

apply] gets to be too flashy and too much. I just take them a little lighter on those ends—a max of three

grey we will use ash based colours.

shades—to get that bit of sun feeling,” he explains.

They tend to look more natural.”

3. Make them comfortable.

— Lana Anderson

Think about the words you use when approaching your clients about colour. “We ask them, ‘Would you like to try a little bit of grey reduction?’ Then, we tell them it’s something we put in at the sink to take out some

e

of the grey. If they like it, we tell them we can do it each time they come in,” says Pargee. “Men are looking

“Grey coverage, nature tones and

to give themselves an edge. This gives them a younger, fresher feel, and they’re looking for that.”

darker…however there is a resurgence of bleach blond.” — Robert Dpj Pieter

4. The future of men’s colour.

Elliott—who says about 20 per cent of his male clientele get colour—sees no increase in colour services right now, with highlights for men having been phased out in popularity. Pargee agrees, although she is interested

e

“Oh, the standard grey blending…

to see what happens in the next 10 years. “Right now, the six- to 12-year-old boys are really adventurous;

what happened to the men of the

they’re just awesome!” she says, referring to the shaving, colourful hair tattoos, faux hawks, mohawks and

‘80s??? — Susan Hayward

bright colours they’re asking for. “Everything they’re doing is so socially acceptable and cool in elementary school. That makes me wonder what men’s hair is going to look like when they grow up. There are no rules for them. I think 10 years from now, men’s hairdressing is going to be spectacular.”

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Via Facebook.com/SalonMag

text: melissa hill, photo hair: DiaDema, milan, italy, art Direction: Fabio messina, makeup: cristina marzo, styling: simone marulli, photo: steFano biDini

For grey blending, a key to keeping it looking natural is to focus on cool, ashy tones. “Most men who get their

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Nail Care for Him

Secrets to promoting hand and foot services for male clients Introducing nail services requires lots of back-

emphasize how quickly you can get it done,

and-forth and listening to the client—here,

it’s kind of a discreet service they can

two experts show the power of suggestion.

receive without having to book a separate

Products He’ll Love Essie Man-E-Cure protects the nail with a stylish matte finish.

appointment for nails and eyebrows,” Ertell

Provide the Prompt

says. In the same vein, Francoeur recalls a

“Foot care is the hardest service to get a guy in

success story: “One of my clients takes care

for,” states Daniel Francoeur, keynote speaker

of his body and gets his hair cut every three

at the 2012 Esthétique Spa International and

weeks, but never took care of his feet. So I

owner of Bodé Spa Medi-Wellness for Men in

gave him a free gift certificate. That was three

Toronto and Ottawa. At Bodé Spa, grooming

years ago. Every month and a half now, he

is the top service that keeps his staff busy.

comes in a for a pedicure.”

LCN Pedifresh is a deodorizing and refreshing foot care spray to relieve stressed feet.

“But sometimes they’re actually looking for other things, whether it’s skin or foot care.

Health Benefits

[Coming in for regular services] is their way

The reality is, men’s feet are closed up and

to test the waters to see if it’s a place where

crammed in shoes more often than women's,

they’re comfortable,“ he says. Alyson Ertell,

who sport open-toed sandals half the year.

education and events coordinator for LCN

Issues like fungus and ingrown toenails are

and former owner of Hypnotic Salon and

not uncommon, says Ertell, who suggests in-

Spa, Sherwood Park, Alta., suggests making

salon treatments like LCN Pedique Mykotic

men’s services known. “Put up a shelf-talker

Toenail Reconstruction for foot fungus, which

by the hair stations. Guys typically won’t ask

helps build the part of the infected nail that’s

for hand and foot care, but if they see a sign

been removed. “I see a lot of guys for this

for it, then they know what can be done.”

service and the toes look nice as they’re

En Vogue Sculptured Nail Systems ’ new spa line offers Walnut Scrub and Pepper Massage Cream, which invigorates hands and feet.

of the toe.” In severe nail health cases,

As long as stylists or barbers are aware,

it’s best to recommend clients to see a

Francoeur and Ertell both suggest having

physician. “But regular maintenance like

technicians approach hair clients with a

pedicures can help keep a lot of feet issues

miniature service or consultation. “If you

at bay,” says Ertell.

Try these conversation starters, according to Francoeur, to introduce new services.

X

Talk to guys about things you do everyday—shave, trim our beards and then ask if they’ve ever had anything done with their feet and hands.

guys come in for their service and then leave, X Often, without seeing the rest of the space. What’s wrong with

Let’s Talk

taking them on a tour? Questions about services and why they're useful will come up.

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a new client in a pedicure room with unknown X Leaving equipment can make him uneasy. Instead, explain which tools you’ll use and what he can expect to experience.

salon april.13

Tweezerman's Nail Clipper Set and Ingrown Hair Splintertweeze get to the root of the cuticle issue.

text: valerie lam , model photo: mensdept., product photos: chris tsintziras, lcn

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Canadian Nail Artist of the Year category Check out SalonMagazine.ca/Contessa for important changes in this category, formerly known as Nail Enhancement Artist.

42

salon april.13

DASHING DIVA The DesignFX 2013 Spring/ Summer prints and patterns are full of punchy statements.

GELISH The Gelish Complete Starter Kit includes all the essentials to get salons started with a gel service.

CHINA GLAZE From the Glitz collection, Razzle Me Dazzle Me throws red glitter in the air with chunky black Bitz 'N Pieces.

TEXT: VALERIE LAM, MODEL PHOTO COURTESY CND, PHOTOS COURTESY CND, OPI, CHINA GLAZE, PHOTOS: CHRIS TSINTZIRAS

OPI For the first time, GelColor adds two new kits with glitter gels, which are lively and enchanting, just like spring.

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Taking It All Off

What to Remember for First-Time Clients

Hair removal for men is, to put it lightly, a touchy service. Here’s how to finesse it.

1

Ask clients to refrain from shaving or trimming two weeks prior to their

appointment to allow an ideal length of hair to grow in order for the wax to take hold.

2

Offer an added exfoliation and moisturizing skin treatment. Exfoliating the skin opens

up the pores and helps release hair follicles, while removing layers of dead skin cells on the surface.

Or, retail an exfoliating scrub that men can use in the shower at home, such as GiGi No Bump Scrub, which also helps minimize ingrown hair.

3

Don‘t be surprised if clients experience some bleeding because hair that‘s never

been waxed has deep roots. Suggest to see them in three to four weeks, before the hair can take root again.

It’s not just during warmer months that clients

skin and applying a talc powder that absorbs

the tea tree oil is antibacterial and a natural

ask for hair removal, but anywhere and anytime

moisture to prep the area, and use an oil, like

anesthetic that desensitizes the skin and there’s

they might be seen with less on their backs.

GiGi Pre-Epilating Oil to form a cushion to

less chance of inflammation,” says Skermont.

Whether that’s the gym or in private places,

protect the skin from contact with the wax.”

technicians can ensure that male clients can go out with smooth confidence.

Keep It Quick

A Comfortable Brazilian Just like with any service, Skermont suggests

Brenda Skermont, also an educator for American

keeping it cool, calm and professional. “If you

International Industries and wax technician at

explain to him what’s going to happen, that

For areas that are prone to sensitivity, including

Sassy Hair Nails Skin in Rockford, Ill. will tackle

will put him at ease. I always do a consultation

the chest and groin, Elham Jazab, global

the sensitive areas last. “Once I started waxing

before we begin.” This is also a good time to

educator for American International Industries

the abdomen and halfway through, my client

give male clients the option to wear drapes or

and esthetician at Cellulite Solution and Skin

asked me to stop,” Skermont recalls. She

towels or see if they’re comfortable disrobing

Care in Beverly Hills, Calif., always reaches for

recommends trimming down the hair to no

from the waist down. “Your first touch will put

a flexible hard wax that adheres to hair rather

longer than 1.5-inch, using smaller strips and

clients at ease or make them uncomfortable,”

than skin, and does not lift. “I like to sandwich

working quickly. For the back, arms and legs

says Skermont. “It’s important to give a firm,

the hair in wax, and spread on the wax against

that are less sensitive, strip wax is an efficient

confident touch, not a tentative one, so that he

and with the hair growth direction to get a

way to complete the service. “I like to use

knows you know what you’re doing. This will

good grip on the hair,” she says. “I always clean

Clean and Easy Tea Tree Cream Wax because

allow him to be comfortable.”

Be Sensitive

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text: valerie lam, photos: istock

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salon april.13

TEXT: VALERIE LAM, PHOTOS: CHRIS TSINTZIRAS

KMS California Hairplay Playable Texture and Messing Creme are modern product essentials to perfectly imperfect styles.

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Taking the Pulse on Style

C

By Yasmin Grothé ompared to styles for women, trends in men’s hairstyles seem to take much longer to evolve. The same phenomenon can be witnessed in fashion—in terms of men’s trends,

the structure of clothes, colours and textures are not as varied as for women’s. For men, the shift is subtle, whereas for women it’s constantly transitioning. According to Kurt Kueffner, co-founder of Mensdept.—a new haircare line coming to Canada this spring—and whose career has been dedicated exclusively to men’s hair, “changes for men are always a bit slower and more deliberate. Small changes make a big difference with men. Sideburns, hair that’s half of an inch shorter, or a clean part and a different styling product, all make a big statement.”

Proper and polished “Men do not wear makeup; facial hair is men’s makeup,” says Damien Carney. However, despite the resurgence of the traditional barbershop look

A guide to everything you need to offer male clients the very best cuts and finishes for 2013.

Ready, set, go!

and feel for some very niche salons in the past two years, Carney cautions that the new men’s look for 2013 is “very old Hollywood. It’s very polished and well put-together. You’re not visiting the barber, you’re wearing a designer haircut that is perfectly balanced, finished and refined.”

Kevin Murphy echoes this opinion as well, saying that the shape is much more polished for 2013. “We’re seeing a lot more graduation achieved with shears and less with clippers. It’s much closer to a Vidal Sassoon technique. It’s not a fade or an undercut but has more hair in it, while the front is more blunt.” Fringe is, in fact, a key trend at Kevin.Murphy this season. Even if the overall look is a bit more messy for the 20-year-oldcrowd, it’s seamlessly achieved with the right styling products. “I always like hair that is nicely cut. In this day and age, men want a good haircut. It needs to be specific. I don’t like to spin the hair out,” says Murphy.

To keep the hair in tip-top shape, visits to the salon are becoming increasingly frequent, too. “We are actually seeing men go from an average four-week cycle to under three weeks in a lot of cases,” says Kueffner.

Maybe a point to consider when trying to fill in those bookings, faster, in your own salon.

Versatile The key word this season is versatile. The shapes are clean and solid, enhanced with highly groomed finishes. At Mensdept., Kueffner says, “We

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are exaggerating the geometry in the haircuts,

textures.” Disconnection is key, without being

with shorter napes, longer tops and more

overly aggressive about it. To finish hair, Carney

aggressive fades. We are actually shaving in

likes Joico’s Texture Boost Dry Spray Wax. “It

parts and finishing with shinier products, using

can be used as a “dressing” on the hair. The

a classic boar bristle brush on a lot of the

hair still looks and responds like hair.”

work.” This is all aimed at achieving a look

As hair is super refined and controlled,

that’s distinct, while being able to change it on

square graduation works on most head shapes

a dime.

and hair textures. It creates that movie star look

The consensus amongst the stylists is for

and always looks modern. “We’re definitely

a natural look that is polished but definitely

seeing more hair that’s cut in a classical way

not wash-and-wear. Wavy or curly hair is

but worn long on top, with the shorter back

left to dry naturally and enhanced with the

and sides. For younger clients, I like to style it

right styling product. Some even recommend

to be messy and chunky,” says Murphy.

blow-drying. Yes, for men! According to

So, for spring 2013 remember your basics:

Carney, “Blow-drying creates polish and, with

a perfect, seamless cut and styling products to

the right product, it creates shine and control,

polish and pomp. Your clients will come back

so that hair looks and feels like hair; healthy

for more!

and radiant.”

Graduated

“

The mohawk with the exaggerated undercut is on a downslide. Even if hair is generally still longer throughout the top, sides are close and the whole head looks very groomed. A looser alternative is to leave more length on the sides, therefore creating a grown-out look that’s slightly longer but polished.

In a technique favoured by Carney, to achieve this look, “hair is sectioned from temple to temple, cut down short and tight using a square graduation. The top is layered lightly with longer lengths so it creates versatility on all hair

salonmagazine.ca

S

You’re not visiting the barber.

You’re wearing a designer haircut that is perfectly balanced, finished and refined.”

WHAT’S HOT THIS SPRING:

1 2

The undercut is evolving into a more gradual cut, almost like a Vidal Sassoon shape.

3 4 5

Gel and paste cocktailing.

The gel creates a wet finish but the paste gives you a chunky texture.

Square graduation creates a defined head shape. The emphasis should be on a man’s jawline.

‘60s shapes with fringe, volume and a wet-look finish.

Think Beatles!

Longer hair for younger men in their late teens and 20s, and more classic, refined shapes for men in their 30s

— Damien Carney april.13

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More men than ever are getting salon services. But what’s surprising is the draw—it has little to do with manly treatment names, big-screen TVs or rustic decor.

By Marissa Stapley-Ponikowski

The Right Cut 50

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rom barbershops to

F

boyfriends or partners in for salon

multi-service salons,

services: “Most of my male clients

men everywhere are

have sent me their girlfriends and

demanding great, versatile looks.

three of their friends, too,” says

And it‘s only getting better. So,

Collins. “This matters a lot more

what is it that gets men through

than coming up with masculine

the door, and keeps them coming

names for products and services

back? It might surprise you.

or trying to make your salon look manly [to attract the clientele].”

PHOTOS: ART DIRECTION:TERENCE PAUL, HAIR: CHRIS MULLEN AND CALUM TIERNEY, FLANAGAN’S MANCHESTER, MAKEUP: ISABEL STROBI, STYLING: GIUSEPPE DICECCA, PHOTOS: PAULO RENFTLE

Great style “Generally, when I meet someone

Man magnets

who has a big male clientele,

Simplicity

they’re a better hairdresser than

attracting a wider male clientele

someone who doesn’t,” explains

base. “Don’t treat it like a spa,”

Matthew Collins, co-owner of

says Domenico Tomei, owner

Brennen Demelo Studio in Toronto

of Fernando Cellini Hair Salon in

and a L‘Oréal Professionnel artist.

Ottawa. He also recently opened

“This might be because if you

a barber shop in Ottawa called

mess up an inch at the back of

House of Barons. “Help men get

a female haircut, she may never

comfortable by not over-analyzing

notice. But if you mess up an inch

what they want. Also, don’t

with a male haircut, he’ll never

assume that because your client

come back—and he’ll tell all his

is a guy, he doesn’t care about

friends never to come back, either.”

what you’re doing while he’s in

Rob Rutledge, owner of Al’s

is

another

key

your chair.”

to

“

If you actually show a man how to use a product, he’ll probably buy it,”says Collins.

Barber Shop and Salon 247, both in

Salon owners should also think

Brampton, Ont., agrees. “A haircut

about the image they present.

might look good for a magazine, but

“Men are not as drawn to salons

the next day, when you wash your

that don’t have visuals of the person

hair, it’s not the same. We do a lot of

they aspire to be,” says Jay Fata,

our cutting to actually stay in place.

Eufora artist and owner of Valor

private when engaging in these

“Services that are add-ons to

There’s a lot more technique, a lot

Men’s Grooming in Phoenixville,

services. The same goes for

the normal haircut ticket are also

more depth cutting.” This appeals

Pa. “You must have photos of the

colour. “A lot of male clients, even

definitely important,” adds Fata.

to men because regardless of how

client you want to attract—so if

if they’re very comfortable with

Catering services like eyebrows,

much they may be catching up to

that is men, have male imagery.”

themselves, generally don’t like

massage and nails to men can

women in the vanity department,

You should also make it easy

to sit in the main part of the salon

help increase the services they

they still want to wake up in the

for men to come in for a service.

with colour on their head. I don’t

end up purchasing.”

morning and not do a lot of work to

“For example, we don’t take

think that’s going to change.”

And don’t forget: men buy

get their hair looking as good as it

appointments,” says Rutledge. “So

This might mean offering evening

products—and lots of them.

did the day before.

a guy can just come in and get out.

appointments, or creating an area

In North America, the male

He doesn’t need to plan ahead.”

that’s just for them.

grooming industry accounts for

And don’t underestimate the power of word of mouth when

Finally, accept the fact that

it comes to men. “If you give a

men might need a little space.

Service savvy

Find product lines that will

man a good haircut, perhaps even

Since more men are growing their

Rutledge’s stag party packages are

appeal to men, educate them,

more than a woman, he’s going to

hair long, Collins has noticed an

becoming extremely popular—his

and they’ll be more likely to take

tell everyone,” says Collins. Another

increase in requests for smoothing

staff will stay late, often the night

it home. “If you actually show a

surprising reveal: it’s not just women

and keratin treatments—but guys

before a wedding, to do straight

man how to use a product, he’ll

who are sending their husbands,

would prefer to be somewhere

blade shaves and grooming.

probably buy it,” says Collins.

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$12 billion in yearly spending.

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Global Style

American Crew’s Face Off finalists share their looks, techniques and insight into men’s trends from around the world.

Plus, the winning style!

By Melissa Hill

Loretta Tom Canada Salon: Marcus J Hair, Vancouver Clientele: 50 per cent men Techniques: Scissor over comb with clean-up done using trimmer over comb. On the top, Tom texturized using scissors.

Inspiration: James Dean. “I wanted to create a rugged masculine look with a modern twist.”

Top Styles in Vancouver: “A lot of guys are growing out their hair on top for throwback, retro looks. It’s a little more

Dean Tsopanis, Pedro José Muñoz , Patrick Chai, Miguel Gutierrez, Loretta Tom, Katrina Saxton

sophisticated and mature.”

W

hen it comes to men’s style, it just keeps getting better and better.

Men—and their stylists—are recognizing and capitalizing on the variety of looks that can be achieved with the right cut and a bit of

product. No one knows this better than this year’s six American Crew Face Off Global finalists. Here’s their take on the versatile looks they created and the styles they’re seeing everyday at home.

Check out SalonMagazine.ca for a video of the finalists talking about their winning looks.

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Miguel Gutierrez United Kingdom Salon: Melogy, London Clientele: All men Technqiues: Clipper over comb for the back and sides, free-hand taper, point cutting on top and razoring for texture.

Inspiration: James Dean. “A bit unkempt and messy—it’s a look any guy would want today, and he’s still setting the style.”

Katrina Saxton New Zealand Salon: Getfunkd, Wellington Clientele: 50 per cent men Techniques: Scissor over comb, slice cutting through the top.

Inspiration: Frank Sinatra. “I love the looks of the older generation, the Rat Pack. That’s what I’ve been inspired by lately. Also, all the creative teams around the world that I follow on Facebook.”

Top Styles in Wellington: “Lots of sharp cuts—side parts with sharp sides. Also, short sides, long through the top and lots of quiffs. Guys like it low maintenance, where they are just styling the top of the hair.”

Top Styles in London: “Classic cuts. Most clients go for classic with a bit of a twist.

I’m doing lots of tapering, short on the sides and more front heavy. A lot of clients ask for something they can wear at work during the week that can become more laid back on the weekends.”

Patrick Chai United States Salon: Floyd’s 99 Barbershop, Los Angeles Clientele: Primarily men Techniques: Scissor over comb on the sides, point cut into the top, left hair longer in the front.

Inspiration: “The classic James Dean.”

Top Styles in Los Angeles: “We see mostly a young, professional crowd and they want a short and tailored sides. We're starting to get requests for quiffs.”

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conservative look with an edge. There’s an emphasis on undercuts, with length on top and

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Salon: Salon BIBA, Melbourne Clientele: 40 per cent men Techniques: Back and sides tightly tapered, with the top going from short to long at the crown.

Inspiration: “Classic, all-American, James Dean. I wanted to do a modern take on a classic image.”

Top Styles in Melbourne: “Melbourne is a fashion-focused city, quite progressive.

There’s been an explosion in the last several years of men embracing fashion haircut. Right now, I’m doing really classic,

Pedro José Muñoz Spain

‘30s zero fade, neatly tapered, well-

Salon: Cubic Estilistas, Majorca

constructed and precise cuts.”

Clientele: 90 per cent men

and realizing the importance of a good

Techniques: Razoring to graduate, blend and create lift.

Inspiration: “My model didn’t have enough length to recreate the style I did before, so I just created on the spot.

The environment I was in, with everyone helping out, gave me the inspiration when I did it.”

Top Styles in Majorca: “Everyone has very short hair. A lot of them work in hotels and need to be very polished with conservative styling. Styles [like the one I did for the competition] are not the majority.”

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Global Winner…. Spain’s Pedro José Muñoz!

The Competition

“

Since I was a child, I’ve been around hair. My dad was a barber and I grew up in the shop. In Majorca, it’s beautiful, like summer year-round.

But I preferred to stay in the shop with my dad rather than go outside.”

The American Crew Face Off competition brought together some of the best men’s stylists from around the world. Started in Australia nine years ago, this was the first time the competition was opened to a global audience of stylists. Each of the six finalists were winners of their country’s competition and then flew to Los Angeles to determine the best in the world. Stylists were tasked with creating their looks on new models, photographing them with professional photographer, stylist and crew at L.A.’s MILK Studios, choosing the best photograph to represent their work and then submitting it for a final round of judging. After a four-hour debate among the judges, which included American Crew creative director, Craig Hanson, a winner was decided and announced the next evening during a gala dinner.

Stay tuned for details on the competition for 2014!

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salonmagazine.ca

rd a d ers n ta ipp S l w e C Th e N Duty y v a In He HIGH PERFORMANCE SILENT RUNNING MOTOR COMPACT AND LIGHTWEIGHT USES SAME BLADES AS OSTER® CLASSIC 76® Our most compact clipper uses vibration isolators and a comfortable texturized grip for better control and less fatigue. Electronically regulated 3 speeds provide optimal control for all hair types of hair and cutting techniques.

Oster® style… Oster® comfort…Oster professional® TOMORROW’S TOOLS FOR TODAY’S STYLISTS. ©2013 Sunbeam Products, Inc. doing business as Jarden Consumer Solutions. All rights reserved.

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Formed scissor halves are ready for finishing.

The Ultimate Guide to Shears A glimpse behind the scenes at choosing your most important tool.

A

By Greg Robins ial casting.

init Before and after the

ny stylist knows there are two things that make them truly great: training and tools. Scissors are the most important investment any stylist can make and a nimble pair of well-designed scissors is the

fundamental basis for happy clients and creativity.

Salon was recently invited to tour the Shigeru Industrial Manufacturing facility in

Japan, makers of some of the world’s best scissors, and learned a whole lot about the what goes into making a superior pair of shears.

“Sharpness and longevity are the most important points,” says Shigeru Fujita, chairman of Shigeru Industries. “This means superior metals, a high quality pivot and stylist comfort.”

Fujita points out that stylists need to know how well a pair of scissors cuts through wet or dry hair and the balance of power versus technical ability of the shear. “Scissors are like any machine—you need to adapt your tools to what you want to accomplish.”

The exTra DeTails Finger rests Look for a finger rest that’s counter-sunk into the handle. It’ll prevent hair from getting snagged in the small space between the threads and handle.

Magnets Avoid hanging your shears on magnets. The metal becomes magnetic and bits of metal build in the pivot and cling to the cutting edge, dulling the blade.

Sharpening Send your shears to the very best maintenance person

For the serious shear shopper, here’s a list of must-haves:

you can find. Low-cost and budget sharpeners can

Metal: Look for shears born from “powdered steel,” a blend of elements that

wreck your most important tool.

maximizes strength, lifetime and sharpness.

Pivot: Pivots work thousands of times everyday so look for ball bearings, locking parts that prevent movement and low profiles to keep out of hair.

Balance: Shears should feel “just right” in your hand. A test is to hold the sheer in a natural cutting position for 15 seconds and see if your feel any strain on the top of your hand or in the inside of your wrist. Test as many as you can until you hit the sweet spot.

ability to design the styles you want will depend on how much you invest.

To watch the shears in action at the factory, look for the video at SalonMagazine.ca

Photos: greg robins

Cost: There is no such thing as a cheap pair of great scissors. Your comfort and S

A BMac scissor is honed by hand

.

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O T !

Y S A E K T I O R S ' U IT FAVO Y A PL

Vote now in the Salon Magazine Reader's Choice Awards!

Pick your favourite shampoo, choose the styling product you can't live without, select the number one colour and more. You decide the winner!

VOTING BEGINS APRIL 12 AT READERSCHOICE.SALONMAGAZINE.CA By entering your vote, you'll also have a chance to win two tickets to the year's Contessa Gala on Sunday, November 10, plus overnight accommodation in Toronto.

NO PURCHASE NECESSARY. Contest sponsored and administered by Salon Communications Inc. (“Salon”). Contest open to Canadian residents, except residents of Quebec, who are at time of entry of age of majority in province/territory of residence. To enter, you must complete entry form located online at ReadersChoice.SalonMagazine.ca. Limit of 1 entry per entrant. Contest begins at 9 a.m. EST on April 12, 2013 and ends at 5 p.m. EST on May 3, 2013 ( “Contest Period”). One random draw from all eligible entries will be conducted by Salon at approximately 12 pm EST on May 10, 2013 in Toronto, Ontario. Odds of entry being selected depend on number of eligible entries received during Contest Period. Subject to fulfilling all Official Contest Rules & Regulations, including mathematical skill-testing question and signing a release, the selected entrant will be eligible to win two (2) tickets to the 2013 Contessa Gala, plus overnight accommodation in Toronto in a double occupancy room, approximate retail value CDN $600. Certain restrictions and conditions apply. Complete rules available online at: ReadersChoice.SalonMagazine.ca. Contest void where prohibited or restricted by law.

Hair: Holly Scanlan, April Allen, Natalie Murray and Rachel Robertson, Spoiled Hairdressing, Fife, Scotland, U.K. Styling: Ian Todd Photos: Matthew Hearne

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Urban Renewal Inspired by popular culture and street style, texture, movement and shape are the focus for these wearable styles.

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Contessa 24, Finalist, Canadian Salon Team, Hair: Lenelle Davis and Edwin Johnston, Cutting Room Creative, Nanaimo, B.C. Colour: Karly Menzies and Stacey Riddy Makeup: Candice Harder Styling: Wendy Cook Photos: Kale Friesen

A Pop of Colour

Proving men’s hair needn’t ever be boring, these bright shades liven up styles.

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Boy Toy The battle of the sexes plays out in this collection of beautiful women’s looks.

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Contessa 24, Finalist, Elite Master Hairstylist of the Year Hair: Michelle Pargee, Milica SalonSpa, Langley, B.C. Makeup: Ashley Gesner Photos: Greg Swales

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Hair: Chris Mullen and Calum Tierney, Flanagan’s Manchester, U.K. Art Direction: Terence Paul Makeup: Isabel Strobi Styling: Giuseppe Dicecca Photos: Paulo Renftle

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modern man Expressive, polished style with versatility marks this collection, showcasing gorgeous good looks that can be tamed or tousled.

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Hair and Makeup: Kaliope Thomas, Tsiknaris Hair, Brisbane, Australia Styling: Liza at Michael Innis Photos: Russell Fleming

To see more images from this collection, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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Tailored 1930s styles with a quirky, modern twist for today’s guys.

Masculine Elegance salonmagazine.ca

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One of four seasonal trends of the new Schwarzkopf Professional Essential Looks collection, Electric Youth embraces nonconformity with a look that’s bold, brash and super confident.

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ElE ctr ic You th S

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Schwarzkopf Professional Essential Looks 1:13 Trend Release Images courtesy of Essential Looks by Schwarzkopf Professional Colour Buzz 1:2013

To see video and more images from Essential Looks, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Collections.

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Same great magazine.

Available in your pocket and on the go.

MAGAZINE

> Essential Lo...

> Shapely See... > Big Personal...

> Pop Art by ...

> Factory Girls... > Straight Ahe...

salonmagazine.ca

Download the latest version of the Salon Magazine app for your iPhone for free! You can browse the latest collections and keep up with industry news. Check event and class listings, watch videos, plus get the latest Contessa Award details—all at your fingertips, 24/7.

Then, share what you find on Facebook or Twitter.

*A mobile-friendly version of our website can be viewed on all other smartphone devices.

Flirty Floral Playing with patterns and interacting with colour, the Ombrés Nature collection is fresh and persuasive.

Hair: James Pecis for L’Oréal Professionnel Colour: Nathan Walker Photos courtesy of L’Oréal Professionnel 72

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Finalist, Contessa 24 Men’s Hairstylist of the Year Hair: Phillip Elliott, Chrome Hair Design, Calgary Photo: Sarah Morley

gentlemen

style Distinguished and debonair looks from a Contessa Men’s finalist.

To see more images from this collecton, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Collections. salonmagazine.ca

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Refined & Polished Precise and perfected, these styles offer a new look at men’s hair.

Finalist, Contessa 24, Men’s Hairstylist of the Year Hair: Pete Goupil, Salon Espace C, Brossard, Que. Makeup: Isanielle Enright Photos: Cassandra Leslie

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Hair and Styling: Caffery VanHorne, Toronto Photos: Peter Tamlin

strong and sexy This exclusive collection from Contessa winner Caffery VanHorne shows off the versatility of men’s style

To see more images from this collection, go to SalonMagazine.ca/Collections. salonmagazine.ca

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Twisted Classic

The latest men’s styles make an impact with precision cutting and styling.

Contessa 24, Finalist, Men's Hairstylist of the Year Hair: Matthew Conrad, Victory Barber & Brand, Victoria Photos: Matthew Conrad

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Hair and styling: Charlie Price for Scruples

Into the Mist

Colour: Amie Breckenridge Goltz and Danny Rivera Makeup: Heather Mora Photos: Melanie Watson

A light, otherworldly collection highlights delicate shades of pale.

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Frank Cini

Elite Master Hairstylist of the Year Finalist

Jeff Bernardini

Men’s Hairstylist of the Year Finalist

Working with his salon team, Frank Cini

Men’s hair on the streets today is refreshingly

envisioned a post-apocalyptic theme for his

stylish, compared to the conventional, tight

collection that harks back to the raw edginess in

cuts of the past—which is the kind of new style

the wasteland esthetic of Mad Max, but brought

that Jeff Bernardini captures in his collection.

to life with a modern flavour. To achieve this in the

“Guys want to look good, and they want to go

hair, Frank says, “It’s important to use contrast in

further and look better with some edge,” he

texture and colour—there are elements of rough

says. “The hair doesn’t have to blend, but I see disconnection with length at the top and short

and smooth.”

A New Man

at the back. There’s movement; it flows.”

Frank thought outside the box with crimped strands and unconventional

Beckham’s Better Half

painted colour panels. “I was inspired by Angelo Seminara’s earlier

“One guy I can refer to is David Beckham—his hair is the right length

collection; the newness in colour and design—it’s not a typical colour

at the right time,” says Jeff, who credits Victoria Beckham as the right

application we’re seeing.”

kind of influence to dress up Beckham’s soccer shave. “Since he’s with a girl who’s into fashion, you can see that Beckham’s getting into it, too.” The look translates to a classy, modern look that’s wearable Frank’s star product to create the look is L’Oréal Professionnel tecni.art Constructor, a heat-protective spray for great texture and hold before crimping.

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for everyday.

Jeff used American Crew Molding Clay to manipulate the hair just so, while maintaining touchable texture throughout the style.

LEFT PHOTO: HAIR: FRANK CINI, MAKEUP: CHRISTINE GENGA. PHOTO: DOUG MCMILLAN, INSPIRATION PHOTO: ANGELO SEMINARA, RIGHT PHOTO: HAIR; JEFF BERNARDINI, PHOTO:THOMAS BRANCONIER, INSPIRATION PHOTO: KEYSTONE PRESS AGENCY

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LEFT PHOTO: HAIR:TIMOTHY HOWARD, SOUND SALON SPA, MAKEUP: ANDREA SQUIRES, PHOTO: DAVID HOWELLS, INSPIRATION PHOTO: KEYSTONE PRESS AGENCY,TEAM PHOTO: DAVE HOWELLS, RIGHT PHOTO: HAIR: JOHNNY CUPELLO, MAKEUP: GIANCARLO INTINI, PHOTO: RICHARD DUBOIS & GIANCARLO INTINI

Sound Salon Spa

Johnny Cupello

Elite Master Hairstylist of the Year Finalist

Canadian Salon Team of the Year Finalist The salon team at Sound Salon Spa

“Living outside the box is so much better

was inspired by the soft, pastel hues of

than inside the box—there’s so much more

Alexander McQueen’s Spring/Summer

freedom,” says Johnny on the way he works.

2012 collection for their Salon Team finalist

Spoken like a visionary and a true artist, he

entry. “We wanted to put light, pastels

approached the hair in his Elite Master finalist

into everything, from hair colour to the

collection as a blank canvas. “I’m motivated

white-washed effect,” says Timothy Howard,

to energize other people. I want the hair that I

Sound Salon Spa owner. Of the hair

create to get people to look again.”

colour, he says, “We experimented with new pigments and chalking to push the boundaries and create new hues.”

Eternal Youth Johnny approached the hair on the male model as a way to represent his versatile youthfulness. “The cut must move him forward,” he

A Little Goes a Long Way

explains, speaking to the mobile, morphing lifestyle that men have

“What I like about men’s hair is that you don’t have to do

when going from one setting to the next. “It’s all about balance; a yin

a lot to make the hair stand out and look bold. It can be a

and yang. The length on the hair is soft, so he can wear it in different

haircut taken more aggressively, or blow-drying the style

ways according to what’s next.” S

or a colour change,”says Howard.

“Just a little bit of play does a lot.”

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The men’s look couldn’t have been done without Aveda Damage Remedy Daily Hair Protect,, a leave-in protector from heat styling.

Johnny’s go-to product kit includes Davines Universal Polishing Coat, an ideal finisher for shine and texture.

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?

...

Entry Deadline

AUGUST 1, 2013 NEW CATEGORY!

Extensions Artist of the Year

IMPORTANT RULE CHANGES Photoshopping Texture Canadian Nail Artist (formerly Nail Enhancement Artist)

Contessa Awards Gala

NOVEMBER 10, 2013 at the Westin Harbour Castle, Toronto Go to

SALONMAGAZINE.CA/CONTESSA for entry form and details.

salon profile

The Accidental Hairstylist Cover artist and Contessa winner Caffery VanHorne shares his 15-year trip through the industry.

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By Melissa Hill

(twice), the 2012 runner-up in the American Crew Global Face Off competition in Canada, worked on editorial shoots at home and abroad, and has styled hair, clothes and even houses. But now, after 15 years, Caffery VanHorne is at a crossroad. After closing his salon in December 2012, “now, for the

first time, I’m not 100 per cent sure what I want to do,” he says. He’s cutting hair a couple days a week in a 100-sq-ft. space, quite profitably, making enough pay the bills and go to Florida for the photoshoots he loves to create.

“I always comes back to something I said on my very first resumé in high school: ‘I’d like to be a pioneer in the field of visual image,’“ he says. “I don’t know what that means right now, though. Creating iconic photographs? Working in artistic direction?

Putting together a line of beautiful clothes? Something that’s new and visual.”

VanHorne never set out to be a hairstylist. Not even when he was flipping over trash cans in the boys’ bathroom at school to turn it into a makeshift barber shop.

“I just knew how to do it and it was lucrative. From that angle is how I got into it,” he explains. “It was never my life dream.” By age 18 at the International Academy of Merchandising and Design, he worked on sets in his spare time, doing hair for photographers’ test shoots and making a couple of bucks in the process. But being a realist and seeing fashion students come out of school with no back-up plan, he

Behind the scenes with Caffery the cover photoshoot.

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This page lefT phoTo: Melissa hill, righT phoTo:arkan Zakaharov. opposiTe page lefT phoTo: peTer TaMlin,Top and boTToM phoTo: arkan Zakaharov

e’s been a salon owner (twice), a Contessa winner

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decided to attend hair school at the same time, as a sort of plan B. Thinking Strategically Finished with both hair and fashion school, VanHorne decided that he wanted to do editorial hairstyling. “I went to work for a salon that was in the same building as Elite Model Management. It was a strategic decision and it worked.

I thought eventually I would get models as clients and I did,” he says. “Then, they referred me to photographers they shot with, and then tests led to jobs.”

Session work was still hard to come by in Toronto, though, so VanHorne picked up and moved to London, England. There, his love of fashion led to a fateful meeting with Michelle, the woman who would become his new boss at a salon called The Hair Force in Kensington. His work made the cover of the January 2000 issue of Black Hair, a moment he calls “amazing” for a stylist of 22. “Michelle introduced me to people who worked on videos and photoshoots. There were not many people working with extensions at the time, and I started getting subcontracted out to attach hair. It was a hush-hush kind of thing, but it’s how I really started to make money,” says VanHorne.

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Check out SalonMagazine.ca for behind-the-scenes video footage of Caffery styling the cover shoot.

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Why Men are Better Four reasons for building up the male clientele in your salon

As men’s services evolve, whether it’s in

aftershave to pomades to gels, Sacchitiello

the barbershop or the unisex salon, it’s

says that guys like the one-stop shop

clear that what men want is not the same

simplicity. And, once guys find a product

as women. Phillip Elliott, director stylist at

that works for them, they’ll come back

Chrome Hair Design in Calgary, Toronto's

for it. “You have to keep their favourites

Crows Nest Barbershop owner Jon Roth

in stock,” states Elliott.

and barber Matt Sacchitiello show us the

3. Prebooking is a No-brainer

perks of going the guy’s way.

Not only do you see your regulars more often, but you’ll also know when they’ll be back.

1. Loyal and Predictable

often, but you’ll know when they’ll be

Where women can be varied in their

back. Elliott shares his pre-booking

interests and attention, men will come

technique: “When clients are at the

back if they know the service is solid. “I’m

cash, I say to them, ‘Look, this is your

finding that a lot of guys ask me to book

next appointment. By all means, it’s not

the same time, same day, every two,

set in stone and you can cancel or move it,

three, or four weeks for the next few

but at least you have this appointment set

months. With their two- to three-week

aside.’ I find that 90 per cent of the time,

intervals alone, I’m usually booked up,”

they just accept it and that’s that.” Follow-

says Elliott. Sacchitiello, who worked at

through is just as important. At Chrome,

a unisex salon for 10 years before joining

text message or email confirmation are

Crows Nest, recalls, “There are usually

key. “People don’t really answer their

two kinds of male clients: the ones who

phones anymore, and the call goes to

come once or twice a year, and those

voice mail,” says Elliott.

who come back every three weeks.

4. It’s a Good Time to Be in Style

You know you’ll see them again. With

XTeach Men a Better Way to Style

Phillip Elliott notices that 90 per cent of his clients don’t blow-dry their hair. So why have them leave the salon that way?

Instead, show them a no blow-dryer required style.

“Teach male clients to put a gel in their hair after shampooing.

Then later, once it’s dry, tell them to throw a clay or a pomade in and soften the gel and give it a ’run-your-hands-through-it’ look.

This gives the same kind of hold and structure as if they were to blow-dry it,” says Elliott.

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Not only do you see your regulars more

women, sometimes you see them every month, sometimes longer than that, and sometimes it’s a colour and cut, or this time they don’t want the highlights.”

Roth, who has always worked as a barber, started Crows Nest to fill a gap he saw in men’s haircutting and styling. “Before, stylists would apply women’s techniques

2. Retail Believers

to men’s hair and men didn’t care as much

Sacchitiello finds that men are more

about the way their hair looked. Now,

inclined to buy product at the salon, where

guys are starting to care again about

they’re introduced to a product from their

looking good and they like the ‘brand’ of

service. “We have a smaller product range

classic cuts. Men’s hair looked the best in

at Crows Nest than a hair salon, and a lot

between 1900 and the 1950s, and guys

of guys like to find everything [they use]

today are returning to that era of classic

at our shop rather than going elsewhere.”

cuts.” Thanks to period shows like Mad

Roth will often tell them about a product

Men and Boardwalk Empire, more men

he’s using as he’s doing the service. From

are asking for specific cuts and styles.

S

text: valerie lam, hair and styling: caffery vanhorne, photo: peter tamlin

AGAZIN NM

E

SAL O

salon business

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

Join the community. Share your photos. Enter the contests.

November 9th, 2012 Winners

Carly Schneider - 1st Place

November 30th, 2012 Winners

Josée Renaud - 1st Place

Showcase your talent on Canada’s hottest community for hairstylists, makeup and nail artists. Upload your photos, be eligible to be featured as the Pic of the Day or be entered in the monthly contest. Plus, be featured in Salon Magazine or ‘dresser, the hot new mag for iPad. Loretta Tom 2nd Place

Rossa Jurenas 3rd Place

Jenny Bell 2nd Place

Aldo Scopazzi 3rd Place

CONGRATULATIONS CONTEST WINNERS Visit Beautynet.com to find out how your work can be entered.

Winning images are featured online, in Salon Magazine and in Salon LookBook, a digital magazine for the iPad and Kindle.

Beautynet.com

SALON INTERIORS

Private Affair

A Lanvain-designed salon and spa offers hidden comforts

By Valerie Lam

The salon side is more outgoing, but people are amazed when they come back to the spa because it is such a spacious, private space.”

Gabriele Cozzolino, co-owner and general manager

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salon april.13

A great way to clo se a service is to offer the product a client needs to maintain the look.

L

ongtime Winnipeg salon, Jerry’s Hair Salon and Day Spa, is modelling a brand-new look for the first time in 30 years. General manager Gabriele Cozzolino approached Goldwell in 2011 about re-

designing the space with European flair. The timing was perfect, as Jerry’s was moving from one area of Grant Park Shopping Centre to another for the mall’s boutique renovation. The result? A unisex salon streamlined in sleek millwood and walls that curve throughout the space.

“There isn’t a straight wall inside the salon or spa,” says Cozzolino, who is pleased with the way the undulating shape gives a continuous, inviting feeling. “Being in a shopping centre, we have more opportunity to make a big impression with our front entrance—more so than if we were a salon on the street. The salon has a vibrant feel for shoppers passing by, but in the back, the spa is isolated for a calmer, more private experience.” The spa features 10 separate treatment rooms, popular for couples, groups of up to eight people, and men who prefer privacy.

S

PHOTOS: IAN MCCAUSLAND

“

track ftware to keep Shortcuts so . ity Jerry's uses tiv and spa ac of the salon

salonmagazine.ca

One couch stretches across the wall, where spa and salon clients can wait comfortably.

Details Contessa 24 Salon Interior Design Finalist Owners: Gabriele Cozzolino and Chris McDonald Design: Lanvain Design Space: 4,300-sq.ft., including the spa

Millwork and studded ceilin g lights stylis the salon and hly bracket spa for a strea mlined finish .

Staff 12 stylists 12 colourists 10 estheticians 4 receptionists Website jerrysdayspa.com

s ell colour bar supplie The extensive Goldw ions. stat 12 the for ds nee all colour salonmagazine.ca

Brands American Crew Goldwell, KMS California Hempz Couture La Biosthetique

Moroccanoil OPI Paul Mitchell Redken Sexy Hair april.13

salon

87

Subscribe

Advertiser Index

o 1 year subscription (8 issues) to anywhere in Canada $40.00 (gst included)

Advertiser + pAge

to Salon Magazine

Artistic Nail Design Colour Gloss pg 41

o Save $60.00 with 3 copies of every issue for you and your colleagues. 1 year subscription (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 (canadian orders only, must be to same location. gst included) o 1 year U.S. subscription (8 issues) $50.00 USD o Please note my change of address and/ or details below for my Salon Magazine subscription.

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Bill my o ViSa Card o amex Card

website www.artisticnaildesign.com

Beautynet.com pg 85

800-720-6665

www.beautynet.com

Bmac Scissors pg 92

855-279-5500

www.bmacscissorrsusa.com

Calgel pg 91

888-435-6397

www.calgelcanada.ca

Contessa 25 pg 80-81

800-720-6665

www.salonmagazine.ca

Dashing Diva pg 12-13

866-665-3482

www.dashingdivapro.com

Destination Education 2014 pg 100

877-426-2590

www.destinationeducation.ca

Elevate Beauty Finder pg 20

800-720-6665

www.elevatemagazine.com

En Vogue Lac It! pg 90

866-379-0532

www.envoguenails.com

Essie Spring Collection 2013 pg 35

877-309-8619

www.essie.com

FHI Heat pg 37

877-FHI-HEAT

www.fhiheat.com

______________________________________________

Gelish Vitagel pg 39

______________________________________________

Hairdressers at Heart pg 14-15

800-41-WELLA

www.hairdressersatheart.com

______________________________________________ cardholder’s name

Hot Tools pg 99

800-487-8432

www.hottools.com

o Mr. o Ms. Given Name(s) ____________________________________

International Beauty Services pg 93

800-642-3818

Surname _______________________________________

Jatai pg 94

888-965-2824

www.jatai.net

Title __________________________________________

Joico K-Pak pg 23

877-426-2590

www.joico.com

Kevin.Murphy Super.Goo pg 26

800-387-2962

www.kevinmurphy.com.au

L’Oréal Professionnel Mythic Oil pg 8-9

877-625-4735

www.lorealprofessionnel.ca

LCN Blossom Sorbet pg 47

888-859-3434

www.lcn.ca

Website _______________________________________

Malibu C pg 31

800-622-7332

www.malibuc.com

o Please email the weekly salonmagazine.ca newsletter o Please send me periodic offers from related companies

Matrix ColorInsider pg 10-11

888-935-1885

www.matrixcanada.ca

Matrix Light Master pg 25

888-935-1885

www.matrixcanada.ca

Mixed Chicks pg 96

877-888-0480

www.mixedchicks.net

OPI GelColor pg 17

800-341-9999

www.opi.com

card number expiry date

Business Name ___________________________________ Address ___________________________Suite _________ City _____________________ Prov____ PC ______________ Phone _________________________________________ Email__________________________________________

section b How would you classify this location? o Salon o Spa o School o manufacturer o Distributor o franchise o Home Based o freelance o one of multiple locations with the same owner o other (specify) ______________________ # of employees ________________________

Oster Model One pg 55

What services are provided? o Hair Care o Skin Care o nail Care o Hair removal o Spa Treatments o Tanning o other (specify) What do you do? o Co-owner o owner o manager o Hairstylist o nail Technician o electrologist o Colourist o esthetician o laser Technician o other (specify) ______________________ ___________________________________ fax form To: (905) 729-4432 mail form To:Salon Magazine Po Box 357, BeeTon, on l0G 1a0 or subscribe online at salonmagazine.ca

88

salon april.13

www.gelish.com

se219

www.osterstyle.com

Premiere Orlando 2013 pg 43

800-335-7469

www.premiereorlandoshow.biz

Reader’s Choice Awards pg 57

800-720-6665

www.salonmagazine.ca

Redken Chromatics pg 2-3

866-973-3536

www.redken.ca

Rusk Deepshine Color pg 19

800-726-6247

www.rusk1.com

Salon App pg 71

800-720-6665

www.salonmagazine.ca

Schwarzkopf Igora Royal pg 4-5

800-463-3081

www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca

SpaRitual Summer 2013 Collection pg 45

877-SPA-RITUAL

www.sparitual.com

TIGI BedHead pg 33

800-259-8596

www.bedhead.com

TIGI BedHead for Men pg 21

800-259-8596

www.bedhead.com

Wella Professionals Illumina pg 6-7

800-41-WELLA

www.wellausa.com s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

salon scoop

1

Top Honours

4

Congratulations!

• Quoc Chay is the new senior vice president to join the Professional

Products Division of L’Oréal Canada. He most recently comes from L’Oréal China, where he developed key market growth for the L’Oréal Group, in addition to international roles within the U.K., France and Asia for L’Oréal Group.

• V. Simon Aznavour joins Backstage

Commerce as the company’s CEO, CFO and director. He will assist Jonathan Morello’s efforts in market penetration

c

and product development.

• Mary Wilson brings more than 20

ity of Hope’s National Professional Salon Industry will

years of experience in the beauty

endow the 2013 Spirit of Life Award to Reuben Carranza,

industry in her new role with Farouk

North American CEO of Wella, the Salon Professional

Systems Inc. as vice president

photos: clockwise:: wella professionals, l’oréal canada, backstage commerce, farouk, bsg, schwarzkopf professional,, pba

Division of P&G, at Cosmoprof in Las Vegas. Carranza was chosen

of marketing.

for his work raising funds toward diabetes research.

Outstanding Performance

5

2

save the date

• The finalists of this year’s North American Hairstyling

Awards (NAHA) will be announced via video broadcast on April 30, 1pm EST. For details, go to Probeauty.org/naha To recognize its sales achievements in 2012, Beauty Systems Group

3

salonmagazine.ca

(BSG) is presented with a new award from Wahl Canada, the Leo Wahl Award of Excellence. The award is named in honour of Leo Wahl, founder of the Wahl Clipper Corporation in 1919.

Business Buff Arianna Huffington will be the 2013 Professional Beauty Association's (PBA) business forum keynote speaker at PBA Beauty Week in July. Huffington, a successful entrepreneur and business leader who has triumphed over the odds in business, politics and the media world, will demonstrate to professionals how to thrive in the face of adversity.

6

Star Sighting Celebrity stylist and BlondMe expert, Kim Vo, will present in Toronto among industry pros Kathy Simon, Rossa Jurenas and Susan Boccia at the Schwarzkopf Professional Essential Looks Colour Buzz presentation, April 28 and 29.

Contact your local distributor for tickets and details.

april.13

salon

89

SALON EVENTS

Sculptured Nail Systems Inc.

Lac It! Lac It! Lac It! Lac It! Lac It! Lac It! Lac It! Gel Polish Gel Polish Gel Gel Polish Polish

Gel Polish Gel Polish Gel Polish

Sculptured Nail Systems Sculptured Nail Systems Inc. Inc. Sculptured Nail Inc Systems Inc. Sculptured Nail Systems .

Sculptured Nail Systems Inc. Sculptured Nail Systems Inc.

Nail N l ail hnTiecchTNeaN •No Smudging cih •No Smudging nl ici •No Smudging i n a an Inco NaTie ans Iniscc!oiain CN l In T N c m e ara c C •No Peeling a h s c ! o C e •No Smudging m e a ! n i m •No Peeling h a l e r a e T •No Smudging •No Peeling e i r n e c il r Opeeic nder O Limited Edition iaansd ap chEdition Spring/Summer‘13 ‘13 eLimited In rO nd ia ce Spring/Summer cn Smudging p hC osm p Smudging ci oCm porn ! •No•No iac naicreni In ao p Collection Limited EditionLimited •No Peeling r •Long Lasting ! r t o e •Long Lasting e u t C Collection a Edition r •No Peeling •Long Lasting u I e t a C n n e a r llOitpieaullnUit Inc co nd nitie aa sC 1 86eernO s1!plln CaC s! •No Collection Peeling 86U6spso!r sie .p s!

8U6os!6 1n.d Collection •No Peeling reaerreeorme.m Limited Edition 6a •Long Lasting Limited Edition . . t 3 a 3 •UV Cured u •UV Cured n .

C 3 r •Long Lasting 7 •UV Cured 7 O n n t d Opp pp dCall9.10.5 u7n9ita.0ll U 9.05 ities 32 ! •Long 1 o Us8362 •Long Lasting 6.37ie5s3!s2 Lasting C C or.t8u66rtu •UV •Soak orOff Buff 9.05 •UV Cured •Soak orBuff Buff Off Off •Soak orCured ie7ns9!it.ie 1.861.86all Uasll Usnit.3 05s3!

32 NEW! NEW! 6.376.37 2 •UV Cured NEW! •UV Cured •Soak or Buff 9.059.05 •No Drying Time •Soak or Buff Off •No Drying Time •No Drying TimeOff 32 32 NEW! NEW! •Soak or Buff Off Online •Soak orDrying Buff Off Online •No Drying Time Online •No Time NEW! NEW! Online Deep Exotic Bloom Deep Blue SeaBlue Sea Envious Envious Exotic Bloom •No•No Drying TimeTime Drying Online Deep Blue Sea Envious Exotic Bloom Shopping Shopping

Spring/Summer ‘13 ‘13 ‘13 Spring/Summer Spring/Summer Spring/Summer Collection Spring/Summer ‘13Limited‘13 Collection Edition Collection T

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Tec

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Chambord

salonmagazine.ca

Redken Symposium 2013 Details: 10,000 hairstylists came for three days of high-fashion hair presentations and classes from globally renowned stylists, such as Chris Baran, Philip Barwick, Brent Borreson, Rodney Cutler, George Garcia, Sean Godard, Noah Hatton, Jorge Joao, Kris Sorbie and more. Redken also gave a sneak peek of one of its newest products launching in 2013, Diamond Oil. When & Where: January 20 – 22 in Las Vegas Highlight: Some of the top trend predictions include the wet look, Mia Farrow-inspired styles and the resurgence of punk styles and geometric shapes.

PHOtOS By SaLON StaFF aND COuRteSy OF ReDKeN

We are now Distributors of CND Shellac™ UV Gel Polish! salonmagazine.ca

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salon events

Schwarzkopf Professional’s Essential Looks Revealed Details: Showcasing what will be hot in hair for spring and summer, Schwarzkopf Professional hosted a worldwide launch party to unveil the first edition of the 2013 Essential Looks Collection. Aimed at inspiring stylists, the four trends are distilled down from looks seen on the runway from fashion weeks around the world.

When & Where: January 27 in Los Angeles Highlight: Inspiration that informed the trends include origami, graphic lines, white purity, 1960s monochrome mods, shiny satin and more.

PhotoS CourtESy of SChwArzkoPf ProfESSIonAL

Sexy Hair’s Stylish Kick-off Details: More than 800 educators, distributors and industry leaders attended the Sexy hair International Sales and Education Conference, which was based around the theme “Experience: the Versatility of Sexy hair.” Attendees took an insider’s look into the company’s business initiatives, goals and more. top educators and international distributors were also recognized at an awards program and charitable presentation to Look Good feel Better.

The perfect balance The strongest metals The smoothest movement Complimentary BMAC care

When & Where: January 22 – 26 in hollywood, Calif.

Highlight: Guests were invited to attend the company’s red Party following the General Session and encouraged to show off their “sexy style” by wearing a splash of red.

PhotoS CourtESy of SExy hAIr

Discover the entire range at www.bmacscissors.ca 92

salon april.13

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

Salon Magazine 11/12 Ad Size 3.75”W x 10” H

Highlights from ISSE, Long Beach Details: Kicking off 2013 in style, 40,000 industry pros arrived at the International Salon and Spa Expo (ISSE) for the West Coast's biggest show. Highlights included new products from Malibu C,

Photo courtesy Kevin.Murphy

Indie Hair, Izunami, texture nail trends from OPI and China Glaze and more.

When & Where: January 26 – 28 in Long Beach, Calif.

Highlight: Navigating the show floor was a breeze with the new ISSE app that included show times, class schedules and a map of the floor and exhibitors.

INTERNATIONAL

BEAUTY SERVICES Giving Salons The Best in Education & Service

PHOtOS COurtESy Of ISSE

SASKATCHEWAN ALBERTA 11348 - 142 St. 2623A Faithfull Ave. Saskatoon Edmonton (306) 343-3398 (780) 454-3388

MANITOBA 1644 St James St. Winnipeg (204) 783-8878

11 Stores to Serve You

Order Desk 1-800-642-3818 L’Oréal Professionnel • PureOlogy • Matrix • Logics Alterna • Kevin Murphy • DS Laboratories • Lakmé Tressa • Babe • Dannyco • Ego • Kasho • One Styling Bioelements • OPI • SpaRitual salonmagazine.ca

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JATAI_ThirdPageVerticalAd_Layout 1 2/27/13 9:49 AM

salon events

Feather’s commitment to quality design and superior performance has made this razor the standard of the beauty and barber industry.

It is the top choice among professional stylists around the world.

Matrix Heads for the Sunny South Details: Distributors from across Canada were shown new launches, including ColorInsider with ODS technology. Key stats presented about colour are that 69 per cent of women are concerned about ammonia in colour and 43 per cent will abandon colour because of ammonia. Blonde is still a hit—50 per cent of women in the salon are blonde and 60 per cent of services are for blondes.

When & Where: January 31 – February 2 in Punta Cana, Dominican Republic Highlight: Education and events director Roch Lemay made the colour even easier to use after developing a whopping 2,900 formulas for the new line!

PhOtOS COuRtESy OF SALOn StAFF

Folding Razor Introducing a newly designed shaving razor head that takes the pressure off the blade for a close and safer shave.

Available throughout Canada (888) 965-2824 • www.JATAI.net

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s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

SALON PROFESSIONALS

HELPING WOMEN FACE CANCER HEAD ON Your gift of $10 will provide a CHEMO CAP for a woman with cancer.

For more information on how you and your salon can help, call 1 800 914 5665 or visit lookgoodfeelbetter.ca

AGNES, CANCER SURVIVOR

“While I was going through my cancer treatment, I was determined to face cancer head on. And thanks to Look Good Feel Better I got the help I needed.”

At a free, two-hour Look Good Feel Better workshop, Agnes received a complimentary kit of cosmetic products and a chemo cap. She learned simple makeup techniques to even out her skin tone and recreate the look of lost eyebrows and lashes. A hair alternatives specialist showed Agnes how to have fun with scarves and hats, empowering her to face cancer with confidence.

1 800 914 5665 | lookgoodfeelbetter.ca Also find us on

LOOK GOOD FEEL BETTER AND FACING CANCER TOGETHER ARE PROGRAMS OF THE CANADIAN COSMETIC, TOILETRY AND FRAGRANCE ASSOCIATION FOUNDATION | REG CHARITY #13374 0316 RR0001

salon events

april 2013 international Beauty Show April 14 –16 Javits Convention Center New York City Info: ibsnewyork.com Star Bedard April 14 –15 Centre des congrès de Québec Québec Info: starbedard.com winnipeg aBa April 21 – 22 Winnipeg Convention Centre Winnipeg Info: abacanada.com edmonton aBa April 28 – 29 Edmonton Expo Centre Edmonton Info: abacanada.com

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hair ClaSSeS aveda eduCational programS Info: 800.689.1066 x7892 Chi eduCational programS Info: 888.251.8466

l’oréal profeSSionnel eduCational programS Info: 800.361.1861 matrix eduCational Programs Info: 888.422.6879

nail and eSthetiCS ClaSSeS aveda eduCational programS Info: 800.689.1066 x7892

redKen eduCational programS Info: 866.9.REDKEN

Calgel Canada Info: calgelcanada.ca or 514.747.7622

goldwell eduCational programS Info: 877.670.6767

SKp eduCational programS Info: 416.340.1562 or contact local SKP distributor

Cnd eduCational programS Info: contact local CND distributor

great lengthS eduCational programS Info: greatlengthscanada.com

tigi eduCational programS Info: 800.259.8596

lCn eduCational programS Info: lcn.ca or 800.557.3223

KmS eduCational programS Info: 877.670.6767

urBan Beauty SyStemS Euronatural Hair Extensions Info: 866.731.4327

Star nail eduCational programS Info: 800.661.9997

gloBal BeSt Beauty eduCational programS Info: 866.468.2205 or 416.636.1988

s a l o n m a g a z i n e . c a

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3

SALON MAGAZINE English edition, USPS 015-615 is published monthly, except for February, June, August and December

by SALON COMMUNICATIONS INC. 365 Bloor Street East, Suite 1902, Toronto, Ontario, M4W 3L4, Canada. US office of publication: 2221 Niagara Falls Blvd, Niagara Falls, NY 14304-5709. Periodicals Postage Paid at Niagara Falls, NY, US postmaster: Send address changes to Salon Magazine, PO Box 1068, Niagara Falls, NY 14304. ISSN 1489-7059 Volume 22 Issue 05 salonmagazine.ca

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Help Plant Our Urban Forests

CLASSIFIEDS Salon for Sale: oakville • Very busy established • • Prime upscale plaza • • 500k + in gross sales •

for more info contact Steve Skrlac @ Keystone Business Brokers 905 592 1525 • cell 905 308 3325 april.13

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97

SALON LAST LOOK

Let’s Hear It for the Boys Get tuned into your male clients this spring

“I love it when stylists realize that men’s hair is interesting, fun and lucrative.

It’s not just $12 cuts. Men are loyal. They will drive all over town to follow their stylist. Give them a reason to stay and speak to them like men. It’s an education of the consumer and the stylist, and it’s upping the game.”

TOP 5 MEN'S HAIRCUTS

1 2 3 4 5

Prohibition High-and-Tight Celeb fan: Tom Hardy

The Mainstream Hipster Celeb fan: David Beckham

- Craig Hanson, creative director for American Crew

The James Dean Celeb fan: Ryan Reynolds

“

The Let It Grow

Some of the worst mistakes in my life were haircuts.

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salon april.13

—Jim Morrison

Celeb fan: Ashton Kutcher

The T he Flow and Comb Celeb fan: Chris Hemsworth

Styles via Menshealth.com.

BECKHAM AND MORRISON: KEYSTONE PRESS AGENCY, HARDY, HEMSWORTH, KUTCHER AND REYNOLDS: CRESTOCK, SOURCES: SERVICECANADA.CA

Men make up 15 per cent of the 25,000 hairstylists and barbers working in Quebec. They make up 19 per cent of the 33,000 working in Ontario and 18 per cent of the 11,500 working in British Columbia.

salonmagazine.ca

True Innovation –

You Know It When You See It

ALSO AVAILABLE IN CERAMIC TOURMALINE

Ceramic Tourmaline

© 2012 Helen of Troy. All rights reserved. (AW001645)

There’s only one standard in salon innovation: Hot Tools®.

From the elegant designs outside to the cutting-edge technology inside, Hot Tools® inspires admirers and imitators the world over. With Hot Tools® salon styling appliances, you’ll know true innovation when you see it.

Learn from the Best!

Join us in Tulum, Mexico

January 18th – 26th 2014 Dreams Tulum Resort & Spa Featuring Premiere Education by:

Damien Carney

Sue Pemberton

Vivienne Mackinder Robert Lobetta

BEN MOLLIN

DREA LECHER

Joico International Artistic Director

Vero K-PAK Color International Artistic Director & NAHA Winner

Five-Time NAHA Winner and Master Stylist

ISO Guest Artist, Shear Genius Stand-Out & Education Academy Owner

ISO Guest Artist & i.Color and Texture Expert

Industry Legend & Creative Mastermind

The 7 day allinclusive package:

$1,999/person

**

(all fees and taxes included)

It’s a TOTAL resort takeover Only Destination Education Guests allowed for the entire week!

BOOK EARLY & SAVE Reserve on or before May 31st, 2013 for additional savings!

Learn more:

www.destinationeducation.ca * Date range reflects two separate arrival & departure dates, depending on flight schedule. Guests to travel 1/18/14 – 1/25/14 OR 1/19/14 – 1/26/14. ** Based on Double Occupancy in Deluxe Garden View Room.

Note: Destination Education 2014 is open to residents of Canada only who are of the age of majority in their province of residence at the time of travel or who are travelling with a person of the age of majority.

©2013 Joico® Laboratories/©2013 Innovative Styling Options, Inc., divisions of Piidea Canada Ltd., Pointe-Claire QC H9R 5N3

Valued at : $4,000/person