Salon Magazine, April 2009

l salon magazine

the business of beauty and style

fashion Publications Mail Agreement No. 40011270 PO Box 357, Beeton Ont., Canada L0G 1A0

the

issue

Spring 09 trend and runway report plus getting ready for Contessas: new category, new rules

april 09 $5 www.salon52.ca

NEW EXTREME IRON REPAIR DEFEND & FORTIFY HEAT-STRESSED HAIR

Heat-activated formula helps reinforce and restructure distressed, dull hair.

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All rights reserved. 2008

GET INSPIRED. BE PART OF IT. REDKEN.CA

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COMING SOON TO A SALON NEAR YOU…

ESSENSITY’S

INSPIRED BYN AT U R E CONTEST Create a hairstyle using ESSENSIT Y, Schwarzkopf’s hot new line of natural colour, care and st yling p ro d u cts, a n d yo u c o u l d w i n a d ate w i t h o n e of Canada’s leading fashion photographers and appear in a special feature in Salon Magazine. There will be a host of other exciting—and green—prizes, with a grand prize value of over $10,000. Get inspired by ESSENSITY. Ask your sales consultant for

STYLING

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ESSENSITY

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more info. For full contest details, be sure to check out salon52.ca/contests beginning April 1st.

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G R E E N T I P : L O W E R YO U R S A L O N ’ S H E AT B Y J U S T O N E D E G R E E & S AV E U P T O 8 % O N YO U R A N N U A L H E AT I N G B I L L

Š 2009 Wella Canada Inc., Mississauga, ON. L5R 3M3 1-800-267-1962 All rights reserved.

KOLESTON PERFECT

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WELLA. PASSIONATELY PROFESSIONAL.

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Call 800.461.9302 or visit greatlengthscanada.com for certification opportunities nearest you

Upcoming Great Lengths® Education Seminars TORONTO

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©2009 Joico® Laboratories, Piidea Canada Ltd., Pointe Claire QC H9R 5N3

It’s time to change.

Change your colour, change your style, change your business.

Colour and Style working in synergy.

Colour with Style.

Embrace the change, speak to us today at (800)259-8596

or learn more at www.tigiprofessional.com

For styling tips vi

sit:

41

Spring Trend report

APrIL.09 On THE COvEr 41 2009 SPrInG TrEnD rEPOrT Salon Magazine takes this season’s trends from runway to your salon

48

83

MAKInG THE MODEL

70

80

84

20

salon > april 09

magazine

the business of beauty and style

fEATUrES SKP AT 111 68

Lead fashion show stylists unravel what it takes to create perfection

COnTESSA 21 OffICIAL EnTry fOrM

l salon

Schwarzkopf celebrates 111 years

HAIr COLLECTIOnS Looks from Errol Douglas, Toni&Guy’s Cos Sakkas, Schwarzkopf and Joico’s Damien Carney

DELUxE COnCEPT Discover La Biosthetique’s unique total beauty philosophy

THE nExT LEvEL Five ways to kick your Contessa entry up a notch

fashion the

issue

Spring 09 trend and runway report plus getting ready for Contessas: new category, new rules

april 09 $5 www.salon52.ca

Hair: Errol Douglas, Errol Douglas Hair Salon, London UK Makeup: Kylie O’Toole Wardrobe: Emma Cotterill Photography: Andrew O’Toole

se.a.09.cover.3-0.indd 10

3/4/09 5:00:58 PM

Technique: Sections of hair were hairsprayed and curled using a mediumbarrelled curling iron. Afterwards, the hair was combed through with fingers to break up the curls. Lastly, a multi-strand hair band was added as a finishing touch.

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Feature OPI’s exclusive ProWide™ Brush.

Model is wearing Feelin' Hot-Hot-Hot! on nails.

Call 800.341.9999 or visit www.opi.com ©2009 OPI Products Inc.

VERNIS MONTRÉS, DE HAUT EN BAS: Overexposed in South Beach, Miami Beet, Done Out in Deco, Suzi & the Lifeguard, Party in My Cabana, Feelin’ Hot-Hot-Hot!, Paint My Moji-toes Red, OPI on Collins Ave., Conga-Line Coral, Sand in My Suit, Clubbing til Sunrise, Bronzed to Perfection

CONTAINS NO DBP, TOLUENE, OR FORMALDEHYDE

38

SHELF LIFE Seven products your clients will love

REGULARS 24 EDITOR’S LETTER 26 PUBLISHER’S NOTE 29 HAIRLINES

Contessa adds a new category p.29; Goldwell’s Trend Zoom Color Challenge p. 30; The latest batch of eco goods p.32; Chop Shop’s edgy collection p.34; Dealing with conflict at the salon p.36; Shelf Life offers seven new products your clients will love p.38

72

Hair Collection : Toni&Guy’s Cos Sakkas

56

PROFILE

60

MEN

63

COLOUR

82 83

74

Session stylists Kevin Murphy and Guido Paulo chat about their careers, what they’re working on for 09 and more

Top three trends for men this spring

Five new must-try pigment lines

SALON52.CA This month on salon52.ca

CONTESSA GALLERY Rino Balzano discusses Capucci Salon’s

88 91

Contessa 20 collection

86

22

salon > april 09

Hair Collection : Schwarzkopf Essential Looks

INTERIORS David Levi Salon goes boutique chic

98

SCOOP EVENTS Coverage of Matrix’s National Sales Conference, ISSE and more

LAST WORD

by John Steinberg

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EDITOR’S LETTER

SALON LOYALTY PROGRAM

Are YOU collecting points?

Limited Time Offer.

The first 111 enrollments will receive a free gift.

salon merchandise salon tools salon accessories Visit www.clubSKP.com or ask your Sales Consultant or Technical Advisor for details.

Together. A passion for hair 24

salon > april 09

Spring Forward

W

e love your feedback. It’s one of the reasons we’re so into our website, salon52.ca. Even though salon52’s mission is to provide you with weekly industry and style updates, it’s also a great way for us to find out what you’re thinking— information we can tap into through our weekly polls and surveys.

Recently, we asked you for your top sources for fashion and style news. Not surprisingly, many of you cited print magazines as your number one resource. So it’s with this in mind that we packed this issue full of runway trends and images. As always, however, we give top billing to the ideas that will help all you beauty pros out there get inspired at your salon.

See the latest looks from our beloved Canadian designers in our 2009 Spring Trend Report 2009 Spring Trend Report, page 41 on page 41. Then check out what it takes to work backstage at internationally acclaimed shows in Making The Model on page 48. Next, see what Guido Paulo, stylist to the fashion stars, is saying are the top looks for the season in Trailblazer on page 56.

And once you’re chock-full of ideas, be sure to turn to page 83 for this year’s official Contessa entry form. We’ve got two exciting changes going on this year. Due to popular demand (see, we’re listening!) we’re introducing a new category: Master Colourist.

Also, we’re putting the “elite” back into Elite Master and making it a by-nomination-only category. Read about all our Contessa changes on page 29 and get a few critical photo shooting tips on page 84.

I’d love to know what you think of this issue.

Send me an email at morella@beautynet.com, go to salon52.ca and sign up for our weekly newsletter or search for salon52 on Facebook to become a member Making The Model, page 48 of our group.

COLOUR AND CUT BOB + PAIGE SALON MAKEUP LIZ ROBERTSON PHOTO TONY CICERO

www.clubskp.com 1.800.463.3081

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EVOLVE supports the United Nations World Food Programme to fight global hunger

PUBLISHER’S NOTE issn 1197-1495 volume 18 issue 05

www. s a lo n 5 2 . ca

EdItOr-IN-chIEf

Morella Aguirre > 416.869.3131 ext.105 | morella@beautynet.com GrOup Art dIrEctOr

Gillian Tsintziras > 416.869.3131 ext.106 | gillian@beautynet.com ASSOcIAtE Art dIrEctOr

Guillermo Ohno > 416.869.3131 ext.113 | guillermo@beautynet.com EdItOr-IN-chIEf (frENch)

Tina Christopoulos > 514.341.0621 | tina@beautynet.com ASSIStANt EdItOr

Melissa Brazier > 416.869.3131 ext.119 | melissa@beautynet.com EdItOrIAL ASSIStANt

Tactical Advantage

Anupa Mistry > 416.869.3131 ext.112 | anupa@beautynet.com cOpy EdItOr

Francie Wyland

I

SENIOr StAff wrItEr

salon > april 09

John Steinberg, Chris Tsintziras pubLIShEr/prESIdENt

Laura Dunphy > 416.869.3131 ext. 110 | laura@beautynet.com SENIOr AccOuNtS MANAGEr

Samantha Anobile > 416.869.3131 ext. 109 | samantha@beautynet.com prOductION MANAGEr

Alan Swinton > 416.869.3131 ext. 111 | production@beautynet.com ASSIStANt tO thE pubLIShEr

Karren Han > 416.869.3131 ext. 118 | karren@beautynet.com AccOuNt rEprESENtAtIvE

Brandon Stout > 416.869.3131 ext.220 | brandon@beautynet.com cIrcuLAtION MANAGEr

Target Audience Management Inc. T. 905.729.2727 | F. 905.729.0227 salon@tamicirc.ca

AccOuNtANt

Aylin Aykul > 416.869.3131 ext. 114 | accountant@beautynet.com chAIrMAN

Brian Light > 416.869.3131 ext. 104 | brian@beautynet.com vIcE-prESIdENt & wESt cOASt EdItOr

Greg Robins > 604.929.1700 | greg@beautynet.com

SubScrIptION rAtES fOr cANAdA 1 year (8 issues) $40.00 GSt included 1 year (3 copies each of 8 issues) $60.00 GSt included. Canadian orders only, must be to same location fOr uS 1 year (8 issues) $50USd AddrE SS ch AN GE S Email: salon @ tamicirc.ca

Fax: 905.729.4432 or send your cover label and new address to: Salon Magazine Subscription Services

Phone: 905.729.1288

Po Box 357, Beeton oN, l0G 1a0 Canada SAL ON MAGAZ IN E

365 Bloor St. e. Suite 1902 toronto, oN M4w 3l4 T. 416.869.3131 | F. 416.869.3008 641,218 professional and consumer readers every issue (source: Market Facts of Canada ltd.)

return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: Circulation department, Salon Magazine, Po Box 357, Beeton oN l0G 1a0 Canada

National Magazine Awards

Hair Bill rowley PHoto BaBaK

26

Stan Byrne

cONtrIbutOrS

’ve always felt the beauty business is one of the best to be in. And these days that’s more evident than ever.

There are few other industries where the close relationship between client and service provider is as trusting and intimate as in the salon business.

Both parties feel good and have plenty of fun. The role of the beauty pro is often seen as hip, cool, fashionable and certainly in-the-know.

The reason I’m extolling the virtues of the salon business is because of the lack of positive news the industry has garnered lately. However, it’s been said many times that the beauty biz is recession-proof. In fact, research shows that lipstick sales substantially increase in a tough economy. Plus, many would agree that while big-ticket item sales are suffering, people are still getting their hair done. I recently heard a marketing guru comment that the economic slowdown will not stop men from drinking, since it’s one of the ways that guys relax. For women, cosmetics and beauty treatments have a similar effect.

While that’s somewhat reassuring, this is a unique time. Many of us have never seen a recession so deep, so let’s not be too sure that the salon businesses won’t be affected. For example, there are some nagging questions that might need to be addressed: Is the client going to make appointments less often? Will retail sales slow down? Will the client do her colour at home? Actually, the ultimate question is what salon owners are going to do to adapt to these times.

Never before has your customer service been more critical. The client will continue to buy if she feels she is getting good value, good service and, ultimately, that pampered feeling. I’m convinced that salons offering the best in customer care will fare the best.

I urge you to take some time to review your business practices and put some new strategies in place to protect your clientele. Remember, it’s much more difficult to get a new client than to keep one. Whether it’s getting creative with your retailing or implementing a reward program, there are many choices that are right for your salon. Talk with your distributor sales consultant and ask for coaching and new initiatives. Take care of the client and the client will take care of you.

Laura Dunphy Publisher

EdItOrIAL INtErN

Pam Fulford

Gold

Silver

Top Five

2008 2003 2002 1998 1995

2003 2001 1997 1996

2008 2002 2001 2000 1999 1996

Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product agreement No. 40011270

Printed on recy

This magazine is recyclable.

Please recycle where facilites exist.

The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part, without the express written permission of the publisher.

printed in C a N a d a

From time to time we make our subscription list available to select companies and organizations whose product or service may interest you. If you do not wish your contact information to be made available contact us via one of the following methods: phone 416.869.3131, fax 416.869.3008 or e-mail salon@tamicirc.ca. Our privacy officer is Brian Gillett at 905.729.1288.

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For your nearest LA BIOSTHETIQUE distributor call Key Beauty Systems toll-free (877) 561-2742

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L A B I O S T H E T I Q U E N AT U R A L C O S M E T I C The new hair care range that combines biological purity and natural goodness with luxury pampering.

For beautiful hair that is naturally cleansed, conditioned and styled.

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www.labiosthetique.com

hairlines

news

contessa changes

A new colourful category and higher stakes for elite masters are among this year’s Contessa alterations New Colour Category

Are you a Master Colourist? This is the new title that’s up for grabs at Contessa 21. Open to senior colourists only (which means you need to have at least seven years professional colouring experience or have won an award in a national colour competition), this category challenges you to create a five-model colour collection. But they can’t just be any five colours: in order to qualify, your collection needs to have one redhead, one blonde, one brunette, one pure-pigment-coloured model and one commercial colour look of your choice. Head to page 83 or salon52.ca for full details.

elite Master rules Miss Contessa has upped the ante in the Elite Master category. This year, Elite Master Hair rasa Jurenas pHoto paula tizzard contessa 19

entrants will be eligible to compete by nomination only. Contessa sponsors, trade and consumer media and authorized professional beauty distributors will be among those submitting names of stylists who they believe should go for the title. If your name is on the nominee list, expect a call from Salon Magazine by May 1. Entries for non-eligible stylists will be disqualified. For the full nomination process, go to salon52.ca.

studeNt Body regulatioNs Last year, the rule for the Contessa student body was to submit three looks using three different models. Today, three looks just means three looks. So if that blonde hottie you wanted as a model cancels on you at the last minute, go ahead and repurpose your redhead with a different look (pin long hair and create a faux bob, or try a sculpted updo with an accessory). The key to success is to show versatility. So if you don’t think you can do that with fewer than three models, opt for the three-look-three-model combo.—MA

keystone press agency

CuCkoo for CoCo

70%

A t 2 0 , C anad i an mod el C oco r o c h a al read y has i con st at us.

P ro of : she changes her hai r c o l our, t he worl d t ak es not i ce

of salon52.ca visitors prefer Coco

in chocolate-coloured locks, while 32 per cent like the lady in red.

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>

Go to salon52.ca today to weigh in on our latest polls.

april 09 < salon

29

HAIRLINES

news

PHOTO COURTESY GOLDWELL

You Up For It? Goldwell seeks creative trendsetters for the 2009 Trend Zoom Color Challenge With the return of the international photo contest, the Trend Zoom Color Challenge, Goldwell is on the hunt again for the industry’s brightest. The winners of Creative Colorist, Elumen Colorist and Partner Colorist will help create the 2011 Trend Zoom Collection alongside Goldwell’s international master team. Interpret either of the set themes, Virtualist and Ecopolitan, in your own way and prove your colour savviness.

Entries are due May 29, 2009. Go to salon52.ca today to see the Virtualist and Ecopolitan images.—MB

New heights L’Oréal Professionnel launches Volume Expand, the latest addition to the Série Expert line

L

’Oréal Professionnel presents a solution for fine, limp locks with the new Volume Expand line, a five-product, mineralbased series. Calcium and silica are deposited on the surface of the hair, creating friction points between strands. This process is called the Ampliform Effect and causes hair to appear thicker and fuller, so clients with fine strands can get the voluminous mane they’ve always wanted.—MB

44%

o f C a n a d i a n w omen cl ai m t o h a v e f i n e h a i r and 13 p er c e n t o f t h e m s ay t hey have v e ry f i n e h a i r.

HOPE FLOATS

At last year’s NAHAs, PureOlogy founders Bob and Cheryl Markham were honoured with the Spirit of Life award at the City of Hope Cancer Centre’s gala and became official fundraisers for the charity.

The Markhams have been involved with City of Hope (cityofhope.org) for over 15 years and, since July, have been championing ovarian cancer awareness to honour a close friend who passed away from the disease. Also inspired

by Paul Newman, Bob says, “He taught me that those who are lucky enough to have success are obligated to pay it forward.”

“This is a challenging year for fundraising,” says Bob, adding that he’s enlisted help from Paul Mitchell, which hopes to raise over $100,000 through its schools.

Recently, the couple toured City of Hope’s L.A. campus, meeting doctors and learning about scientific breakthroughs.

Bob notes, “We are honoured to receive this award and make a meaningful impact on the lives of thousands of people living with cancer.”—AM

Going local Redken’s Color Extend tour coming to a mall near you

Redken’s ONEXONE cut-a-thon is going local in June as it launches the Color Extend tour in partnership with Chatelaine magazine.

Scheduled to visit 10 malls nationwide, the tour will give away a free Color Extend shampoo and magazine in exchange for a donation. Also, do-gooders will be given the opportunity to schedule Redken cut-a-thon appointments.

A portion of funds raised in each area will be donated to a charity in that same community.

For more info, call 1.866.9.REDKEN or visit redken.ca.—TC

Source: L’Oréal Professionnel

30

salon > april 09

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© 2009 Piidea Canada Ltd. – FIX MEN by QUANTUM Division – Pointe Claire – QC.

Time to turn back the clock Introducing

QUICK. EASY. GREY BLENDING FOR MEN.

GET YOUR COLOR FIXED IT’S THAT SIMPLE.

To learn more about COLOR FIX & details on where to purchase, call 1.800.267.4676.

hairlines

innovations

Green Goods

In the wake of Earth Month, here’s how our industry is becoming environmentally aware TIGI has launched a new organic line called Love, Peace & the Planet featuring six appropriately named “eco-awesome” hair products. To be more earth friendly, all of these products are formulated without parabens, artificial colours or synthetic fragrances. The line includes cranberry orange mint shampoo and conditioner; cherry almond leave-in conditioner, texturizer and firm hold spray; and lavender citrus eucalyptus volumizer and thickener. Plus, all of the packaging is completely recyclable and most of the bottles are made from post-consumer recycled material. It’s all about making a difference... and of course looking great while you’re at it.—MB

www • Read more about TIGIs new eco line at salon52.ca

Ready for more eco?

Check out these earth-friendly offerings

RUSK Rusk launches its new eco flat iron and blow dryer designed to help you and your clients be extra-environmentally-friendly.

HENKEL Henkel (Schwarzkopf’s parent company and winner of international awards for its green efforts) introduces a company-wide eco plan for the next five years.

www FHI HEAT FHI presents the Do More: Earth Flat Iron. A portion of the proceeds from sales of this environmentally sound iron will be donated to plant new trees in local communities.

32

salon > april 09

• For the lowdown on these new eco products and more, head to salon52.ca

BALMAIN Balmain has launched an organic line of products enriched with green tea and minerals to nourish the hair and scalp.

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SHINE. SHINE. SHINE. INNOVATION by Schwarzkopf Professional

NEW! Š Schwarzkopf Professional 1-800-463-3081

SHINE MAGNIFYING SPRAY A fine-mist formula for illuminating shine.

Register to become a BLONDE EXPERT by calling our ASK Academy at 1 800 463-3081.

WWW.BLONDME.COM

hairlines

backstage Haircut and Colour: Mishelle Brydges Updo: Amber Porter

Rockabilly Heat

The stars of Slice’s new reality series, Chop Shop, create edgy, sexy looks for the bad girls

hat do a chopper, a salon and a dog named Bobo have in common? A new series on Slice, of course, featuring the foul-mouthed stylists at Vancouver’s rock ’n’ roll hair salon Chop Shop.

For these photos created exclusively for Salon Magazine, the “choppers” (Chop Shop owner Daniel Hudon’s name for his stylists) mixed classic 50s lines and shapes with rockabilly flare and splashes of acid-greens and soft turquoise colours.

Even the traditional 80s mohawk gets turned on its side, with a sleek hot-pink and black curl adorning it at the front. Always subversive and never ordinary, the choppers’ collection challenges the notion of typical feminine beauty with fun and spunky punk-rock hair.—SB

Hair: Mishelle Brydges

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Hair: Paymon Torabian

Watch the story behind this Chop Shop photo shoot on Slice, April 22, at 8 p.m. ET (9 p.m. PT).

photos Justin tyler Close

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The Chop Shop crew and models

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Keeping cool How to deal with conflict at the salon

By Tina Christopoulos

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salon > april 09

Salon Escape, was inspired, but knew his plan would come with a price.

“The team I had at the time couldn’t share a common vision,” admits Barbosa. “Out of a staff of 22, we kept four and went through a rigorous hiring process.” Barbosa had potential candidates write down their own set of values, and then compared them to those of the salon. “That way you weed out any bad apples before they even join the team.”

Dorys Belanger of Au Premier Experts Cheveux in Montreal completely agrees. “Mutual respect, clear expectations and rallying around a common goal are what keep our team harmonious,” he says. “You need to respect individuality but have common business goals. Be consistent. Don’t waver from the mission.”

It’s not only about the staff. Salon owners need to take responsibility for their actions, too. “They have to be prepared to be held accountable,” says MacFarlane. “We recommend they sit with individual staff members once a month and ask if they’re getting everything they need from their work environment. The key element in coaching is humility.”

No matter how prepared you are, problems do arise. As Barbosa puts it, “It’s important to realize no one is perfect; the sooner we accept that, the better everyone gets along.”

Above all, Belanger recommends, “Harbour a sense of belonging, collaboration and contribution.

And respect, respect, respect.”

Dealing with Disputes Doreen Belliveau, director of marketing for Chatters Canada, offers these tips on handling clashes at the salon.

1. If conflict arises, attempt to resolve the situation in a friendly fashion. Contact the appropriate person of higher authority next, whether it’s a manager, owner or district manager.

2.

Ensure official policies and procedures are clearly laid out in a manual for all employees and new hires to review.

Consistent, unchanging guidelines safeguard the valuable working relationships of the team and serve as a standard to which all employees are accountable. They are in place to prevent bad habits from forming.

3.

Hold regular and constructive staff meetings.

4.

Keep a positive, proactive atmosphere in the salon that promotes shared success.

Reinforce the mindset that the team is pursuing goals together, including trying new things.

5.

Recognize that retail or front-end employees may be motivated differently than hairstylists. Encourage these two employee groups to respect each other by emphasizing that they are all part of the same team and responsible for helping the salon work effectively. S

jupiterimages

i

n an industry where passions run deep and emotions run high, it’s common to butt heads once in a while. Whether it’s who will mop the floor at closing or who pulled a diva attitude, learning to handle disagreements is the first step on the road to success.

“First of all, you’re crazy if you think conflicts are only felt by stylists and staff,” says Stephanie MacFarlane, director of business development, Salon Consultants International. “Tension in the salon is just like walking into someone’s home after they’ve had an argument—clients feel it.”

MacFarlane endorses creating and drafting a set of values that you as a team agree reflects your common vision and the salon’s identity.

“This is never something a salon owner should do on his or her own,” she cautions. “This is about how the group wants to grow, and what they want to achieve.”

At Salon Resource Group’s 21 salon locations throughout Atlantic Canada, the organizational vision rests on five key values: passion, respect, integrity, dedication and enthusiasm— affectionately known by the acronym PRIDE. “These are your guidelines for service standards,” explains MacFarlane. “The minute there’s a conflict, you have something to refer back to as a behavioural guideline.”

After attending Summit Salon Business College, where Salon Consultants International offers a series of business programs as a strategic partner, Robert Barbosa, owner of Toronto and Calgary’s

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hot StuFF Curling irons, flatirons and blow dryers, beware: you’ve met your match. Redken’s new Extreme Iron Repair is the solution to damage caused by too much heat styling. Info: redken.ca

7 Smooth move Torlen Professional’s Soft Touch Flat Iron is easy to use, with an ergonomic rubber handle and a nine-foot swivel cord. This tool heats up instantly and features an adjustable temperature setting up to 210 degrees for superior styling. Info: torlenprofessional.com

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• For more of the latest products, head to salon52.ca

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salon > april 09

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Photo Chris tsintziras text Melissa Brazier

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Spring 2009 Trend Report

t

By Morella Aguirre

Runway photos Maja Hajduk

his season, Canada’s coolest designers serve up a cocktail of spring trends that are equal parts fashion and beauty. Electric-pink eyes turn Andy Thê-Ahn’s Greek goddesses into bombshells; crimson lips dazzle Pink Tartan’s feel-good garments; a penchant for minimalist makeup modernizes Rudsak’s rock ’n’ roll-referencing alpha females. Here, we break down spring’s strongest statements.

Glam Goddess Updos are a defining look this season.

At Andy Thê-Ahn, carefully engineered twists and rolls were adorned with glittery accessories. To energize the designer’s bright goddess gowns, eyes also made a statement with vivid fuchsia accents and ultra-long look-at-me lashes.

www • Learn more about these products at salon52.ca

▼

Makeup: Extensions by Lash beLong (lashbelong.com) create a killer stare, while colours from Crush Minerals’ (crushminerals.ca) new cosmetic collection add catching strokes of pink.

Hair: Set your sculptured looks with Joico’s (joico.com) new K-Pak Style Protective Hair Spray for Flexible Hold & Shine.

Nails: For ultra-glam nails, go for LCN’s (lcn.ca) new Fancy Pink lacquer from the Inspiration collection.

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Rock ’ n’ Roll Cowgirl

▼

Minimalist hair and makeup had major impact on this season’s runways. Pairing their biker-slash-western collection with dense, bluntly middle-parted hair and rosy but barely there makeup, this season’s Rudsak show provides the perfect example of the tendency toward modern lowkey beauty.

Hair: Add density with Great Lengths’ (greatlengthscanada.com) new Ultra Sonic 5000 cold fusion system, then set hair with TIGI’s (tigiprofessional.com) new Rocktastic Hardcore Spray Gel from the Rockaholic line.

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salon > april 09

Nails: Finish the look with CND’s (cnd.com) Moonlight & Roses.

Makeup: Highlight eyes with SST’s (sstsignatureseries. com) Matte Eyeshadow Trio in Electric and add a touch of colour to lips with High Shine Lip Polish in Provoke.

www • Learn more about these products at salon52.ca

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A blend of bold prints, prickly textures and chunky accessories created an out-ofAfrica setting at David Dixon. Hair—worn tightly cropped or in a skinny, side-swept braid—is playful but sophisticated. Peach tones brighten skin, while splashes of coral highlight the lips.

Hair: Try T3 + Orlando Pita (t3micro.com) Boost Heat-Seeking Liquid Iron Booster, and polish the look with Moroccanoil’s (moroccanoil.com) new Gold Glimmer Shine.

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Makeup: Seek out peaches and corals in Sothy’s (sothys.com) spring/summer 09 makeup collection.

Nails: Contrast lighter peach tones with OPI’s (opi.com) Axxium Soak-Off Gel Lacquer in Lincoln Park After Dark.

www • Learn more about these products at salon52.ca

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Easy Breezy Red lips are everywhere this spring. At Pink Tartan, crimson-stained mouths were layered over a charming mix of retro prints, Mad Menesque silhouettes and modern glamour. Side parts and voluminous waves hit the same note on tresses, while coordinating scarlet nails polished off the look. S

Hair: Make waves with the new Matrix Vavoom ShapeMaker (matrix.com)

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salon > april 09

Nails: Give your clients a long-lasting scarlet touch with Essie’s (essie.com) Lacquered Up from the spring 09 collection. Makeup: Try red-stained lips with RVB’ s (rvb.eu; intercosmetics.ca) Lasting Hydra Lipstick in 07.

www • Learn more about these products at salon52.ca

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Lead fashion show stylists unravel what it takes to create perfection

the Model When they reach the end of a runway, models strike a calm pose, but the frenzy they experience backstage tells a different story. In New York and Toronto, Aveda, L’Oréal Professionnel, Wella Professionals and CND artists helped set spring/ summer 09 trends while working behind the scenes at some pretty major shows. Here, we break down what it’s like working in the most coveted of places: backstage at a fashion show.

Daniel Fiorio

L’Oréal Professionnel Portfolio Artist at the Royal Ontario Museum

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salon > april 09

When Italian designer

Giambattista Valli brought his couture collection to Toronto for a gala fundraiser, Daniel Fiorio and the team from Salon Daniel were on board to recreate Valli’s original look from Paris Fashion Week. “I’ve developed a relationship with the designers I usually work with, so more and more I get sort of carte blanche,” says Fiorio. “But this was unusual, because Valli didn’t meet me until the day before the show,” he says of the fast-paced experience.

PHOTOS MAjA HAjduk, COuRTESY L'ORéAL PROFESSIONNEL

Giambattista Valli

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I N SP I RATI ON

“When you look at Valli’s clothing, there is fantastic structure, with a lot of femininity and softness,” says Fiorio. “We operated the same way—an updo inspired by the idea of what a model would look like after getting undressed.” Fiorio and his self-professed “dream team’’created a strong structure with high polish and shine and then broke that up by pulling out pieces of hair.

PREP

The Salon Daniel team was onsite four hours before the 9 p.m. show. “When we first arrived, I did the first model,” says Fiorio.

“Nobody does anything until I demonstrate and can verbalize the look and the ‘why’ behind it.” Once the team set up and models began to arrive, Fiorio worked at a slightly slower pace so he could assist. “Working backstage makes my team and me better stylists, because it helps you understand material, shape, texture, colour and mood,” he says. “After sweating quite a bit, it was very rewarding when Valli pointed to some of the models and said they looked better than in Paris!”

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▼

SHOW

The day before the evening show, Fiorio prepped four models live for the designer. “Valli is very definite about getting his look right. I prepped models with much longer hair and much shorter hair so Valli could see how I could correctly create the look with a challenge,” explains Fiorio. “Once I got it down myself and sorted out how I was going to technically execute it, I immediately met with my team and broke it apart for them, detailing what to do and what not to do, because I knew the following day would be very busy.”

www • Log on to salon52.ca for more behind-the-scenes footage of Giambattista Valli’s showing at the ROM’s Textile and Costume Endowment Fund gala.

april 09 < salon

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INSP IRAT ION

Girls with “gym hair”—a textured, undone half-pony with loose, flyaway ends. “It’s one of those looks where hairstylists work extremely hard to create something that looks like the model did it herself,” says Clendennen.

P RE P

After working as an Aveda lead stylist

for the past three years, prepping models at Alexander Wang’s show was a regular day’s work for Texas-based salon owner Clendennen. His number-one rule: “If you don’t like change, don’t work Fashion Week.”

Dennis Clendennen Aveda lead stylist

Alexander Wang at NewYork Fashion Week

SHOW

▼

Clendennen says stylists arrive three hours before the show starts and then jockey for the best work station where they can be photographed, are close to the lead stylist and, most importantly, within reach of an electric outlet.

“When the first model arrives, a demonstration is performed with a full explanation,” he says, outlining his responsibilities. At Wang’s show, Clendennen says one of the challenges was dismantling already-coiffed models arriving from other shows.

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PHOTOS COURTESY AVEDA

“The test usually occurs three to five days before the show,” says Clendennen. “At the test, the look is prepped and styled for Wang’s approval. Once it’s achieved, the model is photographed and all the tools and products that are needed to complete the look are notated, to be passed on to other team members.”

INSP IRAT ION

Solely a women’s designer, Malandrino turned to stylized 40s-era film noir, when, explains Scrivo, there was a lot of volume and height in women’s hair, achieved via rollers, hair spray and “lots of teasing.” For this season, the team created highly structural shapes, similar to a man’s pompadour, with two-or-three-toned Baliaged hairpieces helping to soften the look.

Two weeks before the show, Scrivo and the beauty team met with Malandrino to review illustrations and concepts. “We worked closely with Fashion Week lead Odile Gilbert to determine the placement of the hair pieces so the light would hit them properly and showcase colour in its brilliance.” Pre-show, Scrivo and her colour team added lowlights and highlights to over 20 high-quality pieces of human hair.

F

or Scrivo, who owns her own NYC salon, this show was particularly exciting because it coincided with Wella’s reformulation and broadening of its colour line. “This was the first time that colour was introduced as an integral part of the show,” she says. “I thought it was very insightful of the designer to acknowledge that hair colour has the same fashion function as fabric. It creates a feeling in a way that shape alone cannot achieve.”

Eva Scrivo

Wella Professionals lead colourist

Catherine Malandrino at New York Fashion Week

SHOW

▼

At 9 a.m. on show day, Scrivo was making sure coloured hairpieces matched model’s skin tone and virgin hair colour. “Odile layered the human hairpiece so that it became part of the model’s own hair,” she says, adding that hair was then curled to provide motion for moulding. “Based on the structure of the face or the height and size of the forehead, determining where the hair piece would sit was very important.”

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PHOTOS COURTESY WELLA PROFESIONALS

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Amanda Fontanarrosa CND team leader

New York, London and Paris “2009 is an exciting time for nail colour,” says Fontanarrosa, who worked with a team of 20 CND artists to create looks for designers ranging from Baby Phat to Louis Vuitton. “Nail style has been evolving to very specific trends that not only involve colour but also coverage choice.”

Many designers wanted limb-elongating looks. Creamy skin tones and solid foundation nudes allowed the CND team, which worked on over 100 looks for spring/summer 2009, to achieve that effect.

“By far, the colour I used the most this season was CND’s Cocoa,” says Fontanarrosa, whose team also splashed multihued brights onto the runway. “Opacity has become a strong story. Not only do the new nudes have full coverage, but now the darkest darks just won’t do without a black base.”

PHOTOS COURTESY CND

Fashion Weeks s/s09

Shades of Summer The first ladies of colour pick this season’s winning hues Jan Arnold

Suzi Weiss-Fischmann

CND founder

OPI Co-founder

“Sheer is out and opaque is in for manicures,” says CND co-founder Jan Arnold, whose team created subdued shades for this season’s biggest runway shows. “Cocoa, a creamy opaque foundation colour, is the new nude for spring,” she adds. “Saturated colour in flesh tones to match your skin look fantastic on toes and have a slimming effect on hands.”

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OPI founder Suzi Weiss-Fischmann thinks beauty trends should evoke a sense of escape at a time when travelling is considered a luxury. The South Beach Collection by OPI reflects what she calls “glam over easy.”

“These are modern looks in a palette of soothing lighter shades and hits of colour,” she explains, adding that she’s partial to purple. This spring Weiss-Fischmann will be wearing the royal hue in Overexposed and the arty Done Out in Deco.

Essie Weingarten Essie Cosmetics founder “Spring 09 is all about classic tones and pops of colour,” says Essie Cosmetics founder Essie Weingarten, who experiments with vivid hues on her toes. “For pedicures, I will be wearing Essie’s new sky-blue Shelter Island from our North Fork collection.”

Keeping with the theme of timelessness, Weingarten adds, “For manicures, my spring shade will be Eternal Optimist, a classic rose.” S

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PROFILE

i

Trailblazer Guido Paulo reflects on his career as the king of runway hair By Melissa Brazier

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photos courtesy redken

t was the early 90s when what used to be viewed as grotesque became strangely beautiful. It was also around this time that Calvin Klein discovered supermodel-to-be Kate Moss and the term “heroin chic” was coined. In 1993, Klein also commissioned a young stylist from London for his New York Fashion Week show. His name was Guido Paulo, and he was at the forefront of this grungy, gothic movement in hair.

It’s been 15 years since that first big show, and Paulo’s name remains synonymous with fashion-forward hair. “Every season I try to push the boundaries within the designer’s ideals,” says Paulo.

Addicted to the adrenaline of working backstage, he also loves collaborating with designers, since that takes him to new creative levels. Paulo is not really sure what his signature is any more, saying, “I do a bit of everything, but it all has my own touch to it. I push people’s perception of what they think is beautiful in hair.”

Twice a year, Fashion Weeks around the globe are in full swing.

These are Paulo’s busiest times of year. He jet-sets from New York to London and then Milan to Paris, working backstage at many of the major runway shows. “Working the shows is a very important vehicle for me. It keeps me up to speed,” he says.

Paulo proudly upholds his reputation for being a step ahead.

This is one of the many reasons Redken took him on as a creative consultant in 2005. In this role, Paulo not only has to be on top of what’s new each season, but also translate that to salons through Redken’s seasonal trend report.

Guido Paulo, creative consultant for Redken, gives his top tips for spring 09: 1. Bringing texture Back…

Working with Peter Som, Pollini and Calvin Klein, Paulo displays full ponytails, half ponytails and knots that bring out the natural texture of the hair for a casual chic look.

2. acceSSorize it…

For Marc by Marc Jacobs, Ralph Lauren and Jean Paul Gaultier, Paulo worked in myriad hair accessories. From playful headbands to vintage fedoras, his advice is to get creative.

3. take it up a notch…

At Pringle of Scotland, Lanvin and Prada, Paulo kept it neat pulling hair back and away from the face. The common thread of these three shows was definitely clean lines and simple style.

4. Stuck in the middle…

Styling for Gap, Versace and PHI, Paulo brought the middle part back to centre stage. Whether up in a ponytail or down with soft, loose waves, these looks exude ultra-glam. S

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PROFILE

By Melissa Brazier

Major Murphy Talking with the celebrity stylist and man behind like-named line Kevin.Murphy 58

salon > april 09

www • To see more from Kevin Murphy go to salon52.ca.

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hair kevin murphy style masters makeup kellie stratton wardrobe romy friedman photo richard bailey

t

his story begins in 1984, when a young Australian hairstylist, Kevin Murphy, was working as a freelancer on his first big shoot for Vogue, an eight-page spread about fragrance. Nearly 25 years later, this stylist has grown into an international name– coiffing the Hollywood elite, working with the biggest players in fashion, launching an eponymous line of styling products (available through Toronto Barber and Beauty Supply, tbbs.ca, and International Beauty Services, 800.642.3818) and winning Master at the 2007 Australian Hair Fashion Awards.

From the start, Murphy’s career has been anything but subtle. Styling everyone from Cate Blanchett to Rebecca Romijn, he has become known as the king of undone beach hair. Murphy says his top priority has always been “to stay true to myself on a creative level and try not to be too influenced by what others are doing.”

This couldn’t be clearer in his most recent campaign, titled They Shoot Redheads, Don’t They? Although most creative directors prefer to work with a clear vision, Murphy gathered five of the top Australian hairstylists and let their creativity reign. “I wanted to push the boundaries of texture. I didn’t let anyone have a finished look in mind, I just told them to go for it,” says Murphy.

The result is a collection of fashion-forward images (see them on salon52.ca) that play with the notion of texture but still have strong commercial appeal.

Obsessed with achieving the perfect hairstyle, Murphy launched his own line of styling products in 2003. Most recently, he and a team of chemists have been working on an ingredient that will protect hair up to 400 degrees without adding any weight. Murphy says, “It has been a long road, but we have finally found a way. This ingredient will be the centrepiece of a new range of styling products and leave-ins all derived from soy and wheat.”

Switching gears from expanding his line of products, Murphy has also opened the Ozdare Academy in Melbourne, Australia, and hopes to introduce a second academy in the near future.

“Ours is an industry that seems reluctant to change, and we hope to bring forth a new set of fashion-focused and serviceoriented skills. I’m a big believer in retraining. It’s all about acquiring skills that are up-tothe-minute.” S

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MEN

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Jamie Stevens, British Men’s Hairdresser of the Year, discusses this season’s diverse hair trends for men By Melissa Brazier

C

lean-cut clothing was a men’s trend seen on the catwalks of shows like Dries Van Noten and Moschino. On the same theme, closely cropped hair is also on the style radar. The military cut has made a comeback, but with a modern twist. Jamie Stevens, British Men’s Hairdresser of the Year, says, “This look encapsulates the 09 trend for men’s hairstyling.

I’ve created this look in a very army-like style but left a big weight line to create a wedge look and feel.”

Stevens recommends keeping it short in the back and on the sides but having length or movement on top. To achieve this look, he advises using clippers—a grade zero on the back and sides and a grade four on top. Once you have the desired height for the wedge, then go in vertically with the clippers to create a sharp line. “It can be worn by anyone brave enough to carry it off,” quips Stevens.

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n the other side of the fashion spectrum, men’s clothing takes a more leisurely approach at the DSquared and Lanvin shows. At the same time, men’s hair also welcomes back looser, more textured styles.

Stevens says, “Curls will play a big part this season.

Whether long or short, they show that the masculine guy can be very metrosexual in 09.”

Stevens says this look can be worn by a variety of clients as long as the hair has enough length. “This cut was created using a razor to give nice texture to the hair, but maintaining a strong outer line for the shape. I used mini-irons to create a non-uniform feel with the curls, then smothered my fingers with clay, and broke it up to form an undone look.”

ith the advent of TV shows like Mad Men, classic suits are back in style, as seen at the Dolce & Gabbana and Calvin Klein shows. Along with welltailored suits, in hair we are seeing another timeless trend—the side part. Stevens says of this Superman look, “It’s one of the styles that people like to come and get in the salon.”

Going for a softer James Dean vibe, Stevens used a scissor over comb technique to cut all the way through, and then razored the top to add some texture. “This look would suit anyone, regardless of hairline, so it’s very wearable,” says Stevens. S

Collection: Frederick Collection, Hair: Jamie Stevens Makeup: Daniel Sandler, Wardrobe: John Scott, Photos: J-E-N-S.com

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COLOUR

DYE HARD Five new must-try pigment lines

By Morella Aguirre and Melissa Brazier

Schwarzkopf Professional: Essensity

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MODEL PHOTO COURTESY SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL, ESSENTIAL LOOKS, 111 EDITION

hese days, if you’re not ready to embrace your inner tree hugger, you at least know someone who is. The reality is that the ecoholic syndrome has spread way beyond the juice bars and is affecting all kinds of urban- and suburbanites. And although these organic fruit-munching consumers may not be lining up to buy buy their new hybrids just yet, they are certainly willing to spend on earthier goods that are both gentler on the planet and on the inner self.

Essensity, Schwarzkopf Professional’s new eco-conscious brand, is designed to cater to this growing sector.

Embracing wet and styling lines, Essensity also includes a range of soft permanent colour made with more than 90 per cent naturally derived ingredients, including fermented Ectoin.

Found in bacteria and known for its protective qualities, Ectoin has gained popularity in the beauty world through its inclusion in sunscreens and skin creams. In the Essensity colour line, Ectoin serves as a conditioning component in lieu of silicones. “Synthetic ingredients have been substituted with natural ingredients wherever possible,” explains Kelly Cook, technical adviser for Schwarzkopf Canada. “Mineral oil and parafins have been replaced by beeswax; there is no ammonia; it’s paraben-free. Basically, Essensity only uses synthetic ingredients when a suitable natural ingredient is not available. In that case, synthetics are chosen based on their environmental and health record,” states Cook.

Testing the colour at her salon (Tillsonburg, Ontario’s Studio Rasa), SKP platform artist Rasa Jurenas is reporting nothing but excitement over the performance, durability and shine the 20 intermixable-shade range offers. “I’m floored by how vibrant the reds are,” she says. “The longevity of the colour is also unbelievable.”

Two activating lotions (a 2.5 per cent and a 5.5 per cent) stimulate Essensity, which offers up to 90 per cent white hair blending and a few levels of lift. As a stand-alone line, Essensity can be integrated easily into a salon’s colour menu, representing a viable alternative for a growing market of earth-conscious clients.

For a trend-conscious stylist like Jurenas, however, the line means much more. “The environmental movement is getting stronger by the day,” says Jurenas. “So I really believe this is the way of the future.”—MA

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COLOUR

ISO: i.Luminate

W

hen the basic manicure grew up, it became the spa manicure. Same thing with its sister service, the pedicure.

The elementary shampoo is now often laced with a heavenly scalp massage that most clients can’t get enough of. But what about colour services? Why can’t they be relaxing, spa-like experiences?

This is the reasoning behind the launch of ISO’s new i.Luminate demi-permanent line, a soothing and conditioning range designed to elevate colour services to the realm of spa services. “Take away the colour aspect and ISO i.Luminate moves into the treatment category,” says Debbie Goodridge, senior educator and sales manager for Piidea/ISO

Canada. With ingredients like babassu oil, cupuaçu butter, vitamin C and ISO’s Triplex C and Tri-Active Technology, i.Luminate conditions both hair and scalp. It enhances hair’s elasticity, surface quality and protects it from UV rays.

A no-lift, ammonia-free demipermanent line with a pH of 6.5, i.Luminate is even gentle enough to be used immediately after a chemical texture service.

“But what really blew me away is the fragrance,” adds Goodridge of i.Luminate’s exotic tropical vanilla and jasmine notes. “It makes the whole experience shift away from the typical chemical service.

People can’t believe they are actually adding colour at the same time.”

That’s not to say that

i.Luminate’s colour pigments are an afterthought, however. “The colours are brilliant,” stresses Goodridge, who lists colour refreshing, grey blending and shine enhancement as some of the ways in which i.Luminate can be used.

For Goodridge, ISO’s development of this 22-shade therapeutic colour line makes perfect sense. “Today, even virgin hair is depleted of its natural moisture because of thermal damage,” she states. As a chemical texture company constantly testing the porosity and elasticity of its clients’ hair, ISO is well aware that moisture is in decline. So, putting forth a sweet-smelling ultra-conditioning spa-colour service is simply taking ISO’s mandate to the next level.—MA

L’Oréal Professionnel: Majirel Mix

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ow including a sunny yellow shade, L’Oréal Professionnel’s reformulated Majirel Mix pure tone line offers a complete rainbow of power pigments. “This line is really a creative tool for colourists,” says Colin Ford, director of education and events for L’Oréal Professionnel. “It can be used to intensify colour, to create special effects on pre-lightened hair, or to neutralize unwanted warm tones on clients with a dark natural base.”

Although a range of pure tones will always be equated with punchy KoolAid colours, Ford states that the true power of Majirel Mix lies in its ability to neutralize, allowing the experienced colourist to offer icy metallic browns and other rich, cool tones. “It works with fundamental colour theory,” he adds. “Violet neutralizes yellow, for example.”

What’s more, LP’s conditioning agent Ionène G Incell is included in all seven shades, delivering the softness and protection that Majirel clients are used to.—MA

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COLOUR

Matrix: SoColor HD Red

A

ny colourist with a redhead on his or her client roster can attest to the difficulties of colouring within this tonal family. Finding just the right hue that has staying power is always a challenge. With the relaunch of SoColor, Matrix has introduced a fresh line of sexy reds that address these issues and more.

The new technology of this high-definition (HD) formula allows stylists to get much closer to a pure, natural red than ever before.

Roch Lemay, colourist and director of education and events for Matrix Canada,

says, “One of the best signature cards for your business is beautiful reds.

This line is a realistic, commercial colour with a vibrancy and richness never seen before.” These colours have no base, making the dye extremely saturated, and offering you a wide palette to apply red on the darkest brown to blonde hair. The colour also lasts longer, as the formula is 100 per cent oxidative; it works within the cortex of the hair as opposed to on the surface.

The HD reds are also not level colours. They are true

to target colour results and will fade on tone—meaning no more brassy hues as the weeks go by. These innovative reds come in four diverse categories: 1.

Red Violet (suggested for a level 2,3, or 4), 2. Red Red (suggested for a level 3,4, or 5), 3. Red Copper (suggested for a level 4,5 or 6), and 4.

Copper Red (suggested for a level 5,6, or 7). Colour results will depend on the lift level of the peroxide you choose. Lemay sums it up best, “It’s everything the client is looking for, and it’s about time something like this arrived.”—MB

Sebastian Professional: Cellophanes

O

riginally debuted in 1976, Sebastian Professional has relaunched its semipermanent colour line, Cellophanes. With a thicker, protein-enriched formula, the line now offers two-in-one colour and conditioning service.

The heat-activated Color Shine Acid Complex deposits non-oxidative pure dye pigments on the hair shaft, seals the cuticle so incoming light reflects for a high gloss shine and infuses hair with conditioning proteins to minimize damage.

Hydrolyzed wheat protein and wheat amino acids work to condition and improve moisture retention,

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while hydrolyzed soy proteins increase body.

Moreover, UV inhibitors will give clients added colour protection between visits. All of this and it only takes 20 minutes to process, plus five minutes to cool down.

Cellophanes can accommodate a variety of your clients with one clear gloss and nine intermixable shades. The formula is so gentle that even clients who have chemically straightened, relaxed or permed hair can get a same-day colour treatment.

So whatever your colour quandary, Cellophanes has got you covered.—MB S

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SKP at 111

t

Schwarzkopf celebrates 111 years

By Morella Aguirre

here’s something about the Schwarzkopf story that captures the imagination. It begins in 1898 in bustling Berlin, the heart of the German empire. A moustached chemist, Herr Hans Schwarzkopf, opens The Dye, Drug and Perfumerie Outlet, a small, glass-fronted drugstore that would lay the foundation for a multinational hair cosmetics business.

Within five years, Herr Schwarzkopf was to reveal a true beauty innovation: the water-soluble powder shampoo. Unlike the expensive oils and soaps of the time, Schwarzkopf’s powder shampoo offered value for money. It came to be known as the “the shampoo with the black head,” and by the early 1920s, when women began to wear shorter hairstyles, it was an in-demand commodity.

In 1927 Schwarzkopf introduced the world’s first liquid shampoo. A year later, he brought a conditioner to market, followed by the launch of Onalkali in 1933, the first alkali-free shampoo and the prototype for all modern shampoos. In the 40s, the company released the original cold perm. By the 1950s, Schwarzkopf had emerged with Taft, a leading hair spray.

The growth SKP has experienced...is due to its ability to furnish the hairstylist with the goods to meet consumer trends.

Clockwise from top: Essential Looks, The Eclectic Collection; vintage poster; classic Taft hair spray packaging; OSiS Dust It; Canadian managing director George Broder and Stanislav Vasiliev, country manager, Russia, at SKP's 111 anniversary celebration in Munich, Germany; new additions to the BC Bonacure line; Hans Schwarzkopf's first drugstore.

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“In Schwarzkopf’s history there have been three stages of development,” says Hans Van Bylen, executive vice-president cosmetics/toiletries, Henkel AG & Co KGaA. “The founding years, the years after its acquisition by Henkel, and the vigorous expansion of the past few years. The basis of the business was created by founding ground-breaking inventions in hair care and styling,” he adds, referencing the powder shampoo. “The next stage began in 1995, when Schwarzkopf became part of Henkel. This marked the beginning of systematic brand management in both the retail and professional markets.”

Today Schwarzkopf is in vigorous expansion mode. Norbert Koll, corporate senior vice-president of Schwarzkopf Professional, notes that “more than 40 per cent of the company turnover is generated through products and services that have been on the market less than two years.” The growth SKP has experienced (becoming the fastest-growing hair cosmetics brand in Europe over the past three years and tripling sales since 1995) is due to its ability to furnish the hairstylist with the goods to meet consumer trends.

In 2009, SKP is meeting the needs of its customer base with a new brand of natural, earth-friendly products, Essensity (read about Essensity colour on page 63). Also, SKP will launch a new BC Bonacure Hairtherapy range and continue its focus on the BLONDME line and unique OSiS products like Dust It. Today, SKP has come a long way from powder shampoo. With the company’s emphasis on style and fashion—seen each season with the release of the Essential Looks runway-inspired hair trends—Schwarzkopf still captures imaginations. The story, however, has changed from a local, charming tale to an account of a major player in hair cosmetics and style. S

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portrait perfect Errol Douglas discusses his last collection for the BHAs T e x t b y M e l i s s a B r a z i e r

E

rrol Douglas remembers being five years old and spending an entire day with his mom at a salon. He says frankly, “I was completely transfixed.” While other children were playing with toys, he was buying and poring over the pages of fashion magazines. By the age of 11, Douglas knew it would always be hair for him.

At present, he’s been nominated 12 times consecutively for the British Hairdresser of the Year Award. And although his latest (and unfortunately last) collection for this category didn’t bring home the hardware, it has been called his best collection yet.

Shot over a period of three days in Sydney, Australia, with his long-time friend and photog Andrew O’Toole, Douglas’s photos actually took a full seven months to plan. He cast models for a little over two months and dropped four of them mere days before the shoot. Still, Douglas says, “These pictures are a pure celebration of the beautiful iconic woman. This collection is very Italian or French Vogue because it has content that’s consistent and fluid. Every single hairstyle makes a statement; there’s nothing wishy-washy about it.”

Overall, the photos uphold Douglas’s reputation for edgy, fashion-forward styling. He says, “I see myself as a Karl Lagerfeld, Donatella Versace or Tom Ford. My collections have to be evolving in order to last a season. I’ve always got to be thinking ahead.” This collection was no exception. Douglas incorporated pure white blondes, voluminous curls, Afro techniques, a balloon shape, and as a very first in his career, he shaved one model’s hair right to the scalp.

After getting goosebumps when he first laid eyes on the images, Douglas sums it up, “They’re really amazing portrait pictures. Commercial, but still strong.” S

Hair: Errol Douglas, Errol Douglas Hair Salon, London, UK Makeup: Kylie O’Toole Wardrobe: Emma Cotterill Photos: Andrew O’ Toole

www • Watch Errol Douglas break down his latest collection on salon52.ca

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www â&#x20AC;˘ See more from Toni&Guy on salon52.ca.

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colour theory Cos Sakkas's winning collection for London Hairdresser of the Year moves us into spring with a bright take on style

s

Te x t b y M e l i s s a B r a z i e r

tumbling upon the hair industry through a friend who raved about a Toni&Guy course he had taken, Cos Sakkas thought it sounded interesting and quickly enrolled. He worked his way up from complete novice to international artistic director for Toni&Guy, and was recently named London Hairdresser of the Year.

Of the collection, inspired by and titled after the novel The Outcast by Sadie Jones, Sakkas says, “These images reflect the seemingly perfect lives of 1950s housewives and play with the novel’s focus on dysfunctional beauty.” Using texture and precision cutting, Sakkas gives each look his own creative spin and a very editorial vibe. S

Collection: The Outcast Hair: Cos sakkas Toni&Guy Covent Garden, London UK Makeup: Hiromi Ueda Wardrobe: Kate Forbes Photos: Troyt Coburn

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stripe tease Put on your Sunday best—it’s Schwarzkopf’s birthday T e x t b y A n u p a M i s t r y

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t

chwarzkopf Professional might be celebrating 111 years this year, but with the release of the first part of the Essential Looks 111 Edition collection, SKP cements its youthful, trendsetting status.

Seen here is Sunday Best, one of four eclectic looks that make up the collection. A playful set of images featuring bold prints and splashes of primary colours, Sunday Best takes the vividness of youth and pairs it with the prim bows and pearls reserved for a visit to Grandma’s house.

Clashing prints and patterned wallpaper set off the relatively simple hair featured in these looks. In one, hair is pulled tight off the face and sculpted into an exaggerated bow, bringing the makeup—resembling artfully placed streaks of bright paint—to the forefront. Cherry-red ripples course through glossy, 40s-style chestnut brown waves, and there’s a buoyant rounded edge to each style, whether it’s a shaggy angled crop or a long multi-tonal mane.

Collection: Essential Looks, 111 Edition Part 1 Essential Looks Creative Director: Steve Hogan Creative direction, hair: Massimo Di Stefano, Tom Kroboth Creative direction, colour: Lesley Lawson Makeup: Melanie Schöne Wardrobe: Ingo Nahrwold Photos: Sabine Liewald w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

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stripe tease

www â&#x20AC;˘ See all the Essential Looks trends at salon52.ca. S

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back to the future Damien Carneyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s latest creation: the Haute Heads collection T e x t b y M e l i s s a B r a z i e r

I

nternationally known session stylist, educator and trendsetter Damien Carney has done it again with Haute Heads, his latest conceptual collection for Joico, combining high fashion with art. Colourist Sue Pemberton worked with power pigments to achieve bold colours and contrast. Her palette included jet black, pale blonde, fiery red, sapphire blue and vibrant violet. Inspired by milliners Philip Treacy, Stephen Jones, Liliy Dache and Suzanne Talbot, as well as the late Australian performance artist Leigh Bowery, Carney combined the models real hair with human hairpieces to achieve these dramatic silhouettes. The result is a mix of sculptural shapes that defy gravity. S

Collection: Haute Heads Hair: Damien Carney Colour: Sue Pemberton Photos: Hama Sanders

www â&#x20AC;˘ See the complete Haute Heads collection on salon52.ca.

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Deluxe Concept Discover La Biosthetique’s unique total beauty philosophy

E Clockwise: La Biosthetique concept salon; the company’s headquarters in Paris

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nveloped in European elegance and sophistication, La Biosthetique is the kind of company that welcomes you with a glass of champagne, then sends you off to a full day of educational courses, business-building seminars and myriad good-for-you industry activities.

Chalk it up to the company’s dual nationality, born in France, but now made in Germany, it has all the relaxed Parisian fashion plus an unquestionable German work ethic. In other words, La Biosthetique offers you the best of all worlds.

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photos courtesy La Biosthetique

By Tina Christopoulos

HAIR AND MAKEUP CYRILL ZEN PHOTO PIERLUIGI MACOR

Spring/summer 09 makeup collection

Collections

In 2006, La Biosthetique opened its international headquarters in Paris, directly opposite the famed Arc de Triomphe and with the Eiffel Tower in view, setting the stage for its glamorous trend collections and events.

Twice a year, the International La Biosthetique artistic team develops consumer-friendly hair and makeup trends with a clear penchant for the European aesthetic.

From its marketing and imagery to the clean-concept salons spread around the world, La Biosthetique continues to infuse elegance and luxury into every aspect of the company.

Total Beauty Concept

Founded in the early 1950s by French biochemist Marcel Contier, La Biosthetique follows a total beauty concept based on four salon-exclusive product divisions: hair care and colour, skin care and makeup.

“We give salons the opportunity of becoming a one stop destination for total beauty,” says general manager Jean-Marc Weiser. By providing products for all of their clients’ beauty needs, Weiser concludes, “the growth opportunities for salons are limitless!”

Premium-quality raw materials go into products that are subjected to the strictest tolerability and efficacy tests, adhering to a no-animal-testing policy.

“Once our products have successfully undergone our own performance, durability and stability tests, we send them to the Dermatological University Clinic of Lübeck,” says Dr. Peter Hagel, CEO, research & development, La Biosthetique. “The clinic works with a high number of testers, 30 to 70 per cent of whom are patients of the centre’s skin clinic.”

The hair care line comprises over 10 hair and scalp-specific care methods offering treatments for individual needs, from dry hair and scalp to stressed and damaged hair to specialty products for fine hair and hair loss and fashionable styling products.

But La Biosthetique’s most exciting innovation—perhaps because it’s also the most recent—is the new Ecocert-certified Natural Cosmetic line. “It’s like a Porsche with a hybrid engine,” quips Weiser. “It has all the benefits of an ecological line without sacrificing any of the luxury.” Indeed, with its elegant packaging and silver lettering, you would never associate the contents with 98 to 100 per cent natural ingredients—many of them from certified organic cultivation.

The company’s gentle professional colouring system, Tint&Tone, with its innovative Micro Pigment technology boasts premium care substances such as coconut oil, beeswax, bisabolol (an active ingredient of camomile) and aloe vera.

The skin care line is a highly hypoallergenic beauty care system including five different methods for different skin needs. “Our products combine biomimetic emulsions, which mimic what naturally occurs in our skin,

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with natural ingredients to offer maximum efficiency,” says Michel Cassivi, education team member for Canada.

Finally, makeup line Belavance completes the total look with trend-inspired colours, anti-aging benefits and moisturizing agents.

Education and business support

Today, La Biosthetique is still a family-owned company, headed by its president, Siegfried Weiser. Core company values of transparency and openness mean La Biosthetique enhances the salon partnership with direct accessibility to the powers that be, and therefore direct accountability. “We operate almost like a franchise concept,” says Siegfried’s son, Jean-Marc Weiser. “We see our partners, the stylist and salon, as a small company not unlike ours, so we understand their challenges because we have them, too.

Our aim is to strengthen and build them up.”

One way to do that is through top-ranking continuous education and training opportunities. “We are committed to contributing to our clients’ success by offering ongoing training that specifically targets management, stylists and estheticians of all levels of experience,” says Philip Jung, marketing and business development manager.

Thousands of La Biosthetique hairstylists and estheticians, including hundreds of Canadians, have already visited La Biosthetique’s Academy in Pforzheim, Germany, for training. Integrated into the elegant four-star-plus Park Hotel, the academy offers over 1,000 square metres of training and conference facilities.

In Canada, the brand is distributed by Key Beauty Systems. Two offices in Montreal and in Calgary offer a full spectrum of business support, from management consulting to salon marketing material, seasonal trend shows and ongoing education. “As their partner, we help salon and spa owners strengthen their services while motivating and educating staff on the newest trends and techniques,” says François Campeau, CEO La Biosthetique Canada.

“We want to help them increase their revenues and improve their profits while making sure their clients look better, live better and feel better.” S

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Complete Collections E sse nt ia l Looks, 111 E dit ion, pa r t 1

> ERROL DOUGLAS B HA fina list c olle c t ion

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Event Coverage > Toronto and Vancouver ABA shows > LG Toronto Fashion Week F/W collections > America’s Beauty Show

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c o n t e s s a g a l l e ry

Hollywood Fairy Tale

Rino Balzano discusses the creative process behind Capucci Salon’s Contessa 20 collection

By Rino Balzano as told to Melissa Brazier

T

hree months before the Contessa entries were due, I met with our

team of six and gave them a week to gather magazine clippings that they liked. We took those tears, laid them out on the floor and began to pick images that had a common thread. After a lengthy discussion, our vision for the collection was decided: the many faces of Hollywood glamour.

After working with everyone in the salon, I knew what their strengths were and wanted them to create within that realm. The team worked with various textures, from finger waves to big frizz, and used products from L’Oréal Professionnel’s Texture Expert line to achieve each look.

Although Hollywood glamour was the theme, this collection took inspiration from several muses, including Christian Dior, Marilyn Monroe and Diana Ross. We wanted the makeup to be soft but have one part of the face stand out, which is why we did strong eyebrows. The mood of this collection was a subdued angelic flare, so the concept for the wardrobe was Hollywood retro with lots of airy movement.

Overall, we wanted this collection to go beyond what you see on the red carpet; the looks had to be beautiful and glamorous but with a definite edge.

“Vince Trichilo created a texture that’s very fuzzy and wiry. We wanted the hair to be an accessory to the wardrobe.” w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

Hair: Rino Balzano, Diana Dagher, Veronika Sorek, Vince Trichilo, and Anna Giannini, Cappuci Salon, Toronto; Makeup: Lindsay Wilson; Wardrobe: Maha; Photo shoot coordinator: Ashley Lauren; Photos: Renata Kaveh S

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The Next Level Five ways to kick your Contessa entry up a notch By: Melissa Brazier The judges on the Contessa panel have each seen thousands of collections.

You want yours to stand out as something fresh rather than the same old, same old. Ruth Hunsley, deputy editor of Hairdressers Journal in the UK, says, “Taking inspiration from people is a great thing to do, but it is important to then add your own twist. All successful stylists have their own signature look.”

Don’t be afraid to think outside the box. Babak, who has photographed hair collections for the past 20 years, quips that Googling "hair" and looking at the top images of the search results is not the best way to find inspiration. Moreover, keep in mind that what won the previous year is not a sure-fire bet to win the following year. Bill Rowley, stylist and emcee for Contessa 20, adds, “Now that the awards are going to be 21 years old, we don’t want to see what happened last year. Surprise us. Even if it’s going out on a limb, it will hold you in good standing.

You may not win, but you won’t be forgotten.”

2. Tell a story…

A theme is necessary to create continuity between the various looks. “It’s important to have the photographs be conducive to each other. If you pull from the sky, there will be an obvious disconnect,” says Rowley. Putting together a storyboard of ideas is a great place to start. Hunsley also suggests starting the day of the shoot with a production meeting. This way, you can ensure that your entire team knows exactly what story or theme they are working to achieve.

Communicating your vision accurately to your photographer is also key. “The job of the photographer is to make everything work. He is the translator between the hairstylist and the judges,” explains Babak. Having a clear vision will keep your team focused. Louis Hechter, session hairstylist and owner of Orbite Salon in Montreal, says, “Everyone has an idea of the way it should be. But if you have too many ideas there will be no strength or sense of balance in the collection.”

3. Use Photoshop lightly…

With Photoshop, everything can be made perfect post-production… or so you thought. Overuse of image manipulation is a definite no-no when it comes to

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pulling together a strong Contessa entry. Rowley puts it perfectly: “We have the technology. Use it but don’t abuse it. Don’t use technology to create what your fingers have missed.”

Hunsley advises that retouching the skin and background is fine, but the hair should never be fiddled with. “If the hairstylist can’t create a smooth shape or defined curls without the help of a computer, he or she doesn't deserve to win a hair competition,” she says. How do you know if it’s too much? Babak says if the photos look more like paintings, you should scale back on the touch-ups.

4. Be attentive to details…

Taking into consideration the entire look, not just the hair, will give you the competitive edge you’re looking for. Rowley says the biggest mistake some stylists make is overlooking the details. “God is in the details,” he quips. He also adds it’s often consideration for the entire look that moves a collection through.

Hunsley says, “Although the Contessas is ultimately a hair competition, it is important that the whole image—including makeup and clothes—work together and tell the same story.”

5. Remember, less is always more…

Over-styling when it comes to hair, wardrobe, makeup and nails can land a collection at the bottom of the pile. Hechter says it’s important not to over-coif and to choose products that will work best for a photo shoot. For example, don’t overdo the shine spray if it’s going to take away from the beautiful colour you’ve created. In terms of wardrobe, makeup and nails, Hechter says in his experience “it’s better to be minimalist. That way you can control the image.”

Hunsley adds, “One of the biggest mistakes hairstylists can make is being too creative—creating avant-garde styles and over-the-top makeup. The simplest collections are often the best. Keep it clean, fresh and modern.” S

www • For more info, including details on the new Master Colourist category, go to salon52.ca

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photo CoURtESY BABAK

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INTERIORS

Boutique Chic

DAVID LEVI SALON

By Colette Wright

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PHOTOs CurT YOder CreaTive

j

ust a 10-minute drive from Victoria, BC, is a small but posh town called Oak Bay. While this little waterfront village is very vibrant, with its one-of-a-kind shops, galleries and cafés, there is also a feeling of being a world away from the hustle and bustle of city life.

It has been the perfect location to open up a boutique-style salon say Scott Garnett and Jayson Van Ee, owners of David Levi Salon.

“With Jayson’s 15 years of expertise in the hair industry, we had always planned on owning and operating a salon together,” explains Garnett, who manages the financial end of the business. “After we moved from Calgary to Vancouver Island three years ago, Oak Bay immediately became the destination to make our dream come true.”

Today, David Levi Salon is turning heads— literally—because it’s located on a major street corner in the centre of town. Garnett credits the salon’s success to waiting patiently for the right piece of property to become available. “It took about a year for what we thought would be the best location in Oak Bay.” From the outside looking in, the year-old salon

Salon Magazine 03/09

exudes a luxurious and inviting ambience. Its two large exterior windows make it is easy to see the layout of the reception area. “With pure white walls and shiny glass shelving, we’ve been innovative by using the vibrant colours of our product lines, Kérastase and L’Oréal Professionnel, as accent colours,” claims Garnett.

Above the reception desk, Garnett chose to hang a black-rimmed light rather than a sparkling chandelier. “Since men make up 30 per cent of our clientele, we want them to feel comfortable, so we added more masculine decor touches.”

The owners have also taken into consideration clients’ privacy, blocking the view of the cutting/colour area with a wall behind the reception desk. At the top of the wall, a long rectangle has been cut out, allowing lots of light to filter into the back.

From the outside looking in, the year-old salon exudes a luxurious and inviting ambience.

Walk through the front doors and you’ll be escorted to the waiting area, which is on an upper level at the back. This is where you can relax on cushioned storage benches and watch the flat-screen mounted on the granite wall above the gas fireplace. Colourful, plush pillows accessorize the room nicely.

But what may seem odd to some is seeing a cutting/colour chair in the waiting area. For personal reasons, Garnett and Van Ee have designed the salon so it is somewhat wheelchair-accessible. “These clients enter the back door, which is very welcoming from a design point of view and still get fivestar service.”

The shampoo area is also on the upper level. Three individual back-wash sinks with movable bowls make the client comfortable but also allow staff to manoeuvre, especially when doing hair and scalp treatments.

A set of five steps takes you down to the cutting/colour floor. Garnett points out that the furniture is very symmetrical, a design feature he and Van Ee prefer, with square-shaped chair pedestals, white cube-shaped shelving units and matching light fixtures between the full-length mirrors. Garnett says these mirrors create the illusion of a larger space and reflect more natural light.

Mounted at the top of each station are three rectangular halogen lights that point down at the client. Stylists are able to adjust the amount of light to their own liking.

Van Ee had the electrical outlets installed on the side of the shelving units between the mirrors, not on the floor. Colour mixing is done in a back room to avoid cluttering the area. Garnett adds, “While David Levi Salon tends to be unique and progressive in the town of Oak Bay, the locals don’t seem to mind a little European flavour in their daily lives.” S Info:

2047 Oak Bay Avenue Victoria, BC; davidlevi.ca; 250.592.0777 Owners: Jayson Van Ee and Scott Garnett Opened: January 2008 Breakdown: 1,250 sq. ft., five cutting/colour stations and nine staff Interior Designer: Loraine Lee, Romanoff Homes and Interiors Furniture & Equipment: O2 Beauty Supplies & Kingdom Beauty Supply Retail Hair: Kérastase, L’Oréal Professionnel Management Software: Edge Management Systems Hours of Operation: Tuesday/Wednesday and Friday: 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.; Thursday: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Saturday: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.

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Photo courtesy

INTERNATIONAL B EAUTY S ERVICES

Giving Salons The Best in Education & Service

Alterna, Color Mark, Kis, Kevin Murphy, L’Oréal Professionnel, Logics, Matrix, PureOlogy, Tressa.

Bioelements, Bodyography, GiGi. Footlogix, Gehwol, IBD, OPI, SpaRitual.

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ALBERTA 11348 - 142 St. Edmonton (780) 454-3388

SASKATCHEWAN 2623A Faithfull Ave. Saskatoon (306) 343-3398

MANITOBA 1644 St James St. Winnipeg (204) 783-8878

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SCOOP

Gossip and

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Calbrook Canada 1-866-522-5435 • www.calbrookcanada.com Come visit us at the

Esthetique Spa International Show Toronto, ON, May 3 & 4, Booth #400

Enter the OSiS Glamour Queen contest and learn how the other side lives. Win a shopping spree, a stay at the Soho Metropolitan Hotel and a spa day with gossip hound Lainey Gossip—a total prize valued at over $8,500.

Sonya Latreille, brand manager of OSiS, says Lainey’s gossip site and Glamour Queen are a perfect fit. “Lainey’s readers are mostly successful women with their fingers on the pulse of what’s hot, women who take notice when a hot product hits the shelves.”

Complete a ballot online at laineygossip.com/glamourqueenballot.aspx. laineygossip.com/glamourquee Enter early and often. Contest ends April 30.

Kevyn and Kevin Salon Circus stylist Kevyn Martell has joined the Toronto Barber and Beauty Supply team as the brand manager for Kevin.Murphy products in Canada.

“I really agree with the philosophy of what Kevin.

Murphy stands for,” explains Martell. “And when the team came to Toronto, we met, we liked each other and it all came about really fast.”

The Next Generation

spas & salons

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Wolf Hatheway, the son of Inge Patton (who helped launch LCN over 20 years ago) has taken over the nail company as president of LCN Canada.

“There is no greater compliment than having your son continue your legacy,” says Patton, who brought LCN to Canada in 1989 and successfully developed training manuals for nail techs and educators. “Wolf was brought up in the LCN culture,” she says, adding that his familiarity with the company was only part of his rise to the top. “He knew that alone would not guarantee his success in taking over the family business.” w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

Happy Exit Exit Hair Salon in midtown Toronto recently celebrated its fifth anniversary with a party and in-house photo shoot. On a strip where there are easily a dozen salons, owner and master colourist Rob Pizzuti says his secret is simple: it’s a place where people can come and really “turn-off.”

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PREMIER PURCHASE Projecting losses of $23 million over the coming fiscal year for Trade Secret retail stores and salons, Regis Corporation announced the sale of the division to Premier Salons Beauty, Inc. Paul D. Finkelstein, Regis CEO, says the company continues to do well. The transaction strengthens financial ratios and gives it a cushion during the recession. After the sale of Trade Secret, Regis is still holding strong, owning, franchising or holding ownership interest in 12,700 salon beauty locations.

Visit our website: www.mccollege.ca Email resumes to: hr@mccollege.ca • Fax resumes to: 780-428-7733

.&&5 5)& /&8

UNILEVER ACQUIRES TIGI Unilever has purchased the TIGI brand and its supporting advanced education academies.

Thomas A. Reasonover, current president of TIGI, will continue to lead the company, reporting to Unilever Americas president Michael B. Polk. Founders of TIGI Bruno, Anthony and Guy Mascolo will remain involved in the company. “Using Unilever’s impressive resources while continuing to involve those who made us successful is very gratifying,” says TIGI CEO Bruno Mascolo.

Straighten, Flip, or Curl

Giving Credit On page 95 of the March issue of Salon Magazine this photo was credited to the wrong hairstylist. The stylist who created the look is Rodica Hristu. We apologize for this mistake. w w w. s a lo n 5 2 . c a

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89

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MUST BE TO SAME LOCATION. GST INCLUDED)

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*SALON OWNERS MUST COMPLETE SECTION B

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______________________________________________ CARDHOLDER’S NAME ❏ Mr. ❏ Ms. Given Name(s) ____________________________________ Surname _______________________________________ Title ___________________________________________ Business Name____________________________________ Address ___________________________Suite _________ City ____________________ Prov ___ PC _____________ Phone _________________________________________ Email__________________________________________ Website ________________________________________

❏ Please email the weekly salon52 newsletter for free ❏ Please send me periodic offers from related companies SECTION B How would you classify this location? ❏ Salon ❏ Spa ❏ School ❏ Manufacturer ❏ Distributor ❏ Franchise ❏ Freelance ❏ Home Based ❏ One of multiple locations with the same owner ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ # of Employees ____ What services are provided? ❏ Hair Care ❏ Skin Care ❏ Nail Care ❏ Hair Removal ❏ Spa Treatments ❏ Tanning ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ ___________________________________ What do you do? ❏ Co-owner ❏ Owner ❏ Manager ❏ Hairstylist ❏ Nail Technician ❏ Electrologist ❏ Colourist ❏ Esthetician ❏ Laser Technician ❏ Other (specify) ______________________ ___________________________________ se187

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FAX FORM TO: (905) 729-4432

Gigi Hard Waxes pg 99 .....................................800-621-9585 ........................ www.gigispa.com Great Lengths pg 10-11 ....................................800-461-9302 ........................ www.greatlengthshair.ca Hot Tools Tourmaline Tools pg 61 ...................800-487-8432 Humber College Spa Management pg 62 ....................................................... www.business.humber.ca IBD Beauty Soak Off pg 16-17 .........................800-621-9585 ........................ www.ibdbeauty.com Images International pg 92...............................866-942-4247 ........................ www.imageslasertek.com International Beauty Services pg 87.................800-642-3818 ISO i.experience pg 12 .....................................800-267-4676 ........................ www.iexperience.ca ISO i.Luminate pg 100 ......................................800-267-4676 ........................ www.isohair.com Joico access Joico pg 13 ..................................800-267-4676 ........................ www.accessjoico.ca Kaaral sense colour pg 45 ...............................877-950-4242 ........................ www.kaaral.com Kenchii Charmer pg 77 ....................................888.453.6244 ......................... www.kenchii.com KQC Beauty pg 89 ............................................................................................ www.kqcbeauty.com L’Oreal Professionnel Homme pg 8-9 .............800-361-8017 ........................ www.lorealprofessionnel.ca La Biosthetique Natural Cosmetic pg 28 ........800-661-1424 ........................ www.labiosthetique.com Lanvain Design pg 47 ........................................800-361-2586 ........................ www.lanvain.com LCN inspiration pg 67 ......................................800-557-3223 ........................ www.lcn.ca Matrix SoColor pg 23 .......................................888-422-6879 ........................ www.matrix.com Matrix Vavoom pg 37 ........................................888-422-6879 ........................ www.matrix.com MC College pg 89 ............................................................................................. www.mccollege.ca Megahair Family Salons pg 88......................................................................... www.megahairfamily.com Milano Software pg 95 ......................................800-667-1596 ........................ www.milanosystems.com/salon Nail Depot Online pg 93 ....................................800-668-2256 ........................ www.naildepot.ca OPI South Beach Collection pg 21 ...................800-341-9999 ........................ www.opi.com Premiere Orlando 2009 pg 59 ...........................800-335-7469 ........................ www.premiereorlando.biz Redken Extreme pg 2-3 ...................................866-9REDKEN....................... www.redken.ca Salon52 pg 82....................................................800-720-6665 ........................ www.salon52.ca Schwarzkopf BlondMe pg 33 ...........................800-463-3081 ........................ www.blondme.com Schwarzkopf Club SKP pg 24 ..........................800-463-3081 ........................ www.clubskp.com Schwarzkopf Essensity pg 4-5 .........................800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca Schwarzkopf OSiS+ pg 18-19...........................800-463-3081 ........................ www.schwarzkopf-professional.ca/gq Star Nails Spring Deals pg 85 .........................877-852-STAR ....................... www.starnailcanada.com Takara Belmont pg 51.......................................800-268-5351 ........................ www.takarabelmont.ca TIGI Colour pg 14-15 ........................................800-259-8596 ........................ www.tigiprofessional.com TIGI Love, Peace and The Planet pg 27 ...........800-259-8596 ........................ www.tigihaircare.com TIGI World Release 2009 pg 53 ........................800-259-8596 ........................ www.tigihaircare.com/worldrelease

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or subscribe online at www.salon52.ca

Wella Koleston Perfect pg 6-7 .........................800-41-WELLA...................... www.wellausa.com

salon > april 09

Torlen Professional pg 65 .................................888-438-9254 ........................ www.torlenprofessional.com

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EVENTS

Matrix takes over Mexico Held Jan. 16 to 20 in Cancun, Mexico, the 2009 Matrix National Sales Conference hit the right mix of business and pleasure. The 150-person conference had a theme of Matrix Is Back, and introduced Matrix’s launches and activities for the first half of 2009. Attendees were also given a chance to schmooze with the Matrix team, which included GM of Matrix Global Ketan Patel and Bernard Nassif, VP of professional brands for L’Oréal Canada.

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EVENTS

ISSE 2009 Industry insiders attended the annual International Salon & Spa Expo in Long Beach, California, Jan. 31 to Feb. 2.

Considered the largest beauty event on the West Coast, ISSE showcased over 400 exhibitors and guests including Nick Arrojo, Orlando Pita and Charlie Price.

Photographer Babak was also on hand to capture the event and host a photo shoot workshop.

PHOTOS COURTESY BABAK

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SKP’s Sales Symposium Toronto’s Steam Whistle Brewing hosted Schwarzkopf’s 2009 Sales Symposium, which recognized the contributions of SKP’s top distributors and technical advisers and gave an official introduction to the brand’s new products.

The crowd was also on hand to celebrate the company’s 111th anniversary as well as a major achievement for Canadian managing director George Broder: 20 years at Schwarzkopf Canada.

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EVENTS

Higher Learning

by Great Lengths Great Lengths Canada hosted a two-day educational seminar at its headquarters in Mississauga on Jan. 25, introducing educators to the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new systems.

Darren Brokaw, head educator for Great Lengths U.S., instructed representatives from Quebec City, Montreal, Vancouver, Victoria, Kingston, and Toronto on using new tools to create colour placement, volume, disconnected styles and more.

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APRIL 2009 COSMOPROF BOLOGNA April 2—6, 2009 Bologna Fiere, Italy Info: cosmoprof.com WINNIPEG ABA April 5—6, 2009 Winnipeg Convention Centre, Winnipeg Info: abacanada.com GLOBAL HAIR & BEAUTY EXPO April 5—6, 2009 Sacramento Convention Center; Sacramento, CA Info: ghbexpo.com INTERCOIFFURE’S SPRING SYMPOSIUM April 19—20, 2009 Venetian Hotel, Las Vegas Info: intercoiffure.us HAIRAPALOOZA OTTAWA April 19, 2009, Ottawa, ON Info: schwarzkopf-profesional.ca

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VANCOUVER ABA April 26—27, 2009 BC Place Stadium Vancouver, BC Info: abacanada.com IBS NEW YORK April 26—28 2009 Jacob Javits Convention Center New York, NY Info: ibsnewyork.com INTERNATIONAL ESTHETICS COSMETICS & SPA CONFERENCE (NEW YORK) April 26—28, 2009 Jacob Javits Convention Center New York, NY Info: iecsc.com EDMONTON ABA May 3—4, 2009 Northlands Park, Edmonton, AB Info: abacanada.com

HAIR CLASSES AVEDA EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892 CHI EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 514.273.9991 GLOBAL BEST BEAUTY EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 866.468.2205 or 416.636.1988 GOLDWELL EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS including trend zoom seminars; Info: 877.670.6767 GREAT LENGTHS EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: greatlengthscanada.com KMS EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 877.670.6767 L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL EDUCATIONAL

PROGRAMS Classes include Absolute LP, Colour Keys, Colour on Colour, Essential Texture and the new H3 Academy Info: 800.361.1861 MATRIX EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 888.422.6879 REDKEN EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 866.9.REDKEN SCHWARZKOPF EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 905.625.7200 or contact your local Schwarzkopf distributor TIGI EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.259.8596 URBAN BEAUTY SYSTEMS EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Programs for Euronatural Hair Extensions;

In-salon classes available Info: 866.731.4327

NAIL AND ESTHETICS CLASSES AVEDA EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.689.1066 ext. 7892 CND EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: contact your local CND distributor LCN EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: lcn.ca or call 800.557.3223 for full listings STAR NAIL EDUCATIONAL PROGRAMS Info: 800.661.9997

See all class listings and full event coverage on salon52.ca.

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LAST WORD

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hen I started in this business, seeing myself as an up-andcoming future hairstylist, I couldn’t wait to get my hands on a pair of scissors to show how well I could cut a head of hair. But no. The standards of the day dictated that before I could cut even a mannequin’s hair, I had to master the art of putting in rollers and also of producing a perfect head of pin curls.

A pin curl, for the uninitiated, is a flat curl made by winding strands of hair into a circle with the fingers and then securing it in place with a pin.

Each pin curl I made had to be secured not with a simple bobby pin or clip, but with three hairpins. Often, just when I thought I had completed the set, some of the pins started falling out and I had to start the section over again. Talk about frustrating and time consuming. “What is the point,” I silently complained, “of this futile exercise, this menial task?”

The point, I eventually came to realize, is the acquisition of patience, perfect placement and dexterity—all invaluable attributes that have served me well throughout my career.

In a way it’s surprising I used to resist the discipline of doing pin curls, because I’ve always been a fan of the wonderful black-and-white films of the 1920s, 30s and 40s. From a very young age, the styling in these films—whether of furniture, cars, clothes or hairstyles—fascinated and inspired me.

Take the old Fred Astaire movies, for example. Besides being singingand-dancing extravaganzas, you can see perfect haircuts and leading ladies wearing hairstyles accomplished by pin curl sets. (I also love Top Hat, a 1935 Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers romp, for the scene where Fred’s character explains the weather: “When a clumsy cloud from here meets a fluffy little cloud from there, he billows towards her. She scurries away and he scuds right up to her. She cries a little and there you have showers. He comforts her. They spark. That’s the lightning. They kiss. Thunder.”)

Ginger Rogers sometimes had her hair styled by Dotha Hippe, an L.A.born hairstylist to the stars. Dotha worked her pin-curling magic for such names as Bette Davis (in 1934’s Of Human Bondage); the gorgeous Rita

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Hayworth (larger, looser curls); and two iconic blonds: Fay Wray in the original King Kong in 1933, and Marilyn Monroe, for her famous 1954 USO performance in Korea for the troops.

Betty Grable was another pin-curled icon. During the Second World War, Grable was America’s number-one female box office attraction and the most popular pin-up girl of the American forces. The 1943 swimsuit photograph of her standing with her back to the camera, sporting high heels, a big smile and an updo with perfectly pin-curled fringe became an immediate sensation. The military allowed the photo to be issued to servicemen, and more than 5 million copies were circulated. The image was even painted onto bomber jackets and bomber planes. Her studio insured her famous legs for $1 million, and by 1947 Grable was the highest-paid woman in America.

The list of lovely ladies whose hair not only became them but also defined them is not complete without the unforgettable Ingrid Bergman, Lauren Bacall, Gene Tierney, and of course, Veronica Lake, whose trademark “peek-a-boo” softly curled long hair that hid one eye was all the rage in the 40s.

And in case you think pin curls are old hat, Brit celeb Kelly Osbourne, not often known for her sophistication, has never looked more glamorous than when she showed up on the red carpet last year in a pin-curl-created hairstyle. S

John Steinberg, of John Steinberg and Associates, is part of Canada’s hair elite. He is currently celebrating 50 years in the beauty business. Check out johnsteinbergthelectures.com.

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