Safarnamaa

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SAFARNAMAA MAY 2023 S T R E E T S O F H Y D E R A B A D 12 STREETS OF HYDERABAD rassamBy Art, Food, Market, streets People Coverstory MAQTHA TO MAQTHA ART DISTRICT THE STREETS OF TOLI CHOWKI: EXPLORING THE SOMALIAN COMMUNITY. HI-TECH CITY: A TALE OF TWO WORLDS

Art - Culture - Streets - People rassam

EDITOR'S NOTE

We got the opportunity to create a magazine where we could unleash our creativity and do something new. My team and I were looking for inspiration everywhere, and we came across the idea of the streets of Hyderabad. The thought behind it was to capture the essence of the city through our magazine Safarnama. Safarnama is an urdu word that essentially means a travel book. Safarnama will take our readers beyond pearls and Hyderabadi Biryani. Our team collected various stories that will take the readers through streets like Toli Chowki, Begum Bazar, and DLF food street, which will make the readers see Hyderabad through the eyes of people who are quintessentially Hyderabadi. Our team " rassam " - Riji, Ali, Sakshi, Sangameshwar, Aravind, traveled around the roads of the city. Rassam means e Malayalam and rasmo rivaj in Urdu, which is the soul of our ma

SAFARNAMAA MAY 2023
RIJI ELSA ROY REPORTER SANGAMESHWAR REPORTER SAKSHI REPORTER
MAHIMA KAUSHAL EDITOR MOHD ALI DESIGNER ARAVIND COPY EDITOR

maqtha TO MaQTHA ART DISTRICT

The story of Maqtha Street is one of neglect and abandonment by the government However, the people of the street, with their friendly and welcoming nature, provided a beacon of hope Enter Start Art India, a nonprofit organization with a mission to bring art to the streets for those who cannot afford to visit expensive galleries.

Before Start Art India came to Maqtha Street, it was just an anonymous street lost in the hustle and bustle of the city. However, the artists of Start Art India transformed the street into a vibrant canvas of color, giving each section its own unique identity The yellow street, the blue street, the pink streeteach one a masterpiece in its own right. Start Art India, based in Delhi, calls in artists from all over the world to come and paint the streets of India, introducing art to underprivileged communities. For the past six years, Start Art India has partnered with Asian Paints to provide the necessary materials to create these beautiful murals.

Start Art India's mission is clear, to democratize art and make it accessible to all They believe that art should not be limited to those who can afford to visit galleries or pay thousands of rupees for a single piece Art is something that should be seen and experienced by everyone, regardless of their socio-economic status. The story of Maqtha Street and the work of Start Art India is a shining example of how art can transform neglected spaces into vibrant and inspiring places Through their efforts, they have not only beautified the street but also brought joy and inspiration to the lives of the people who call it home.

ONE OF THE COLOURFULL WALLS OF MAQTHA: PICBYMALI
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TWO WOMAN TALKING OVER CHAI : PICBYM ALI

CITY

Hyderabad’s High Tech City, the tech-hub of the state, is a bustling hub of innovation and technology The city is home to some of the biggest names in the tech industry, with multinational corporations like Microsoft, Google, and Amazon operating out of state-of-the-art facilities in the area The fast-paced corporate life in High Tech City is a stark contrast to the socioeconomic conditions of many of the city’s residents, such as Sruthi and her family, who live in a shed in the shadows of the high-rises

Sruthi is one of many lives living in poverty in the city, struggling to make ends meet on a daily basis She and her family live in a small, makeshift shed, built from scrap materials, on the outskirts of High Tech City Their home has no running water, no electricity, and no sanitation facilities Sruthi’s husband works as a day laborer, earning just enough to put food on the table and pay for their children’s school fees Despite the challenges they face, Sruthi’s family remains optimistic and works hard to improve their situation In contrast, the corporate life in High Tech City is fast-paced and competitive The tech industry has transformed the area into a hub of innovation and entrepreneurship, attracting talented professionals from all over the world The city boasts some of the best research and development facilities, world-class infrastructure, and a vibrant startup ecosystem

The work culture in High Tech City is demanding, with long hours and high expectations Professionals are expected to be innovative, adaptable, and efficient in their work, often working in teams to solve complex problems The corporate life in High Tech City is driven by technology, and the industry demands constant learning and upskilling.

The dichotomy of life in High Tech City is stark The area is a symbol of progress and innovation, but the benefits of this progress have not been equally distributed While the tech industry has brought wealth and prosperity to some, others are left behind Sruthi’s family and many others like them are struggling to make ends meet, with little access to basic amenities and services

In conclusion, High Tech City, Hyderabad, is a tale of two worlds While the city is home to some of the most innovative companies in the world, there is a stark contrast between the lives of the corporate professionals and those of the city’s poor The challenge for policymakers and industry leaders is to ensure that the benefits of progress are accessible to all, regardless of socioeconomic status Only then can High Tech City truly be a beacon of progress and innovation for all its residents

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T A L E O F T W O W O R L D S HITECH
SRUTHI WITH HER BABY PICBYM ARAVIND HITECH CITY STREET : PICBYM ARAVIND M. ARAVIND

DLF STREET: TECH TADKA

DLF is a hangout street bustling with tech folks till late at night (9 pm – sometimes 4 am). DLF Street is situated right opposite the DLF office. Hence, the name. DLF is a mixed pot of food cultures in India. From Varalakshmi Tiffin’s butter dosa to Smoky Doky, a paradise for chicken lovers to Am-Pm food point to momo delight to gustos waffle to hundreds of food stalls serving shawarmas, maggie, goli soda, unique coconut juice and what not. DLF is a heaven for pocket friendly foodies.

The owner of the famous Forni Cafe, Mr. Pradeep Naidu, says, "the mix of cultures in the DLF street is mind blowing.” His favorite rival restaurant has to be the Broadway. The unique concept behind the DLF Food Street is that other than the variety of food, it also caters to food in different budgets. One can get a Rs. 50 vegetable roll to a Rs. 1000 billing restaurants like Chicago Pizza

DLF also has an interesting combination of corporate and business, as there are many IT employees owning a variety of food outlets. Mr. Pradeep Naidu says that most of the IT guys he knows owns a food outlet because of the fear of losing their jobs due to layoffs. While on One hand there was a boom in the IT sector during COVID, the food sector suffered major losses. He further mentions that the other IT guys he knows are extremely passionate in the food industry.

DLF, for sure, has a busy yet groovy vibe. Whether it is Mr. Naidu or us or any foodie or hungry visitor coming to the DLF Food Street, they will surely be awestruck by the food diversity this street has to offer.

SAFARNAMAA
MAHIMA KAUSHAL

THE BANGLE BAZAR

If you ever find yourself in Hyderabad, there’s one must-see item you shouldn’t miss out on – lac bangles. These beautiful bangles, made from a mixture of resin and lacquer, have been an important part of Hyderabad’s cultural heritage for centuries. Today, they remain as popular as ever, with locals and tourists alike flocking to the city’s bangle shops to get their hands on these exquisite pieces. One of the most popular bangle shops in Hyderabad is Khaja Bangles, owned and operated by Jafar Located in the bustling market of Laad Bazaar, Khaja Bangles is a favorite among locals and visitors alike. Jafar inherited the shop from his father and has been running it for over two decades now “I’ve been in this business since I was a child,” he says. “I grew up around bangles, and they’ve always fascinated me " .

Jafar’s shop is famous for its vast collection of lac bangles, with an array of colors and designs to choose from. “We have something for everyone, ” he says. “Whether you ’ re looking for traditional designs or something more modern, we ’ ve got you covered.” Jafar takes pride in the quality of his bangles, which he says are all handmade by skilled artisans. “We don’t compromise on quality,” he says. “That’s why our bangles are so popular.”

Another popular bangle shop in Hyderabad is Mohammad’s Bangle Emporium located in the historic Charminar area. Mohammad’s shop has been in business for over five decades. His family has been in the bangle trade for generations, and he says that the craft has been passed down from his ancestors “Banglemaking is in my blood,” he says. “It’s what we do, and we do it well.”

Mohammad’s shop is known for its exquisite designs, with intricate patterns and delicate workmanship. “We take great care in our designs,” he says. “Each bangle is unique and handmade, and we put a lot of effort into making them,” Mohammad says that his shop is a popular destination for weddings and other special occasions. “Bangles are an important part of our culture,” he says. “They symbolize prosperity and happiness, and people love to wear them on special occasions.”

In conclusion, the lac bangles of Hyderabad are a must-see item for anyone visiting the city. Whether you ’ re looking for traditional designs or something more modern, the bangle shops of Hyderabad have something for everyone. And with the passion and dedication of shop owners like Jafar and Mohammad, the craft of banglemaking is sure to continue to thrive for generations to come.

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VEGETABLE MARKET:

THE ORGANIC STOCK

In the hustling bustling streets of Hyderabad, weekly vegetable markets are laid across different streets and localities on different days. Shopping fresh, green, and seasonal at the weekly vegetable markets has now become a ritual for people in this city. These vegetable markets have become a tough competition for established grocery stores like Vijayta and Ratanadeep, but as Venkat Lakshmi, a 36 year old vegetable seller in the weekly vegetable market says "its all about the quality".

Every Monday and Thursday, Lakshmi sells vegetables at the weekly vegetable market on the Masjid Banda Road. The government has been supportive of these weekly markets and roadside vendors, especially for the past 2 years. Lakshmi said last year she got a loan of Rs. 10,000 and this year, she might get a loan for Rs. 20,000 The vegetable market is crowded with people and children after office hours. Other than vegetables, accessories and utensils are also sold here. The weekly vegetable market has become a mini carnival. "I like selling vegetables and interacting with people, but sometimes when the sale doesn't go high, it becomes very difficult." Says Lakshmi. On discussing further she says. "If I am unable to sell fresh vegetables here, I go to another street like Anjaiah Nagar on Friday and sell it at a lower price."

The weekly vegetable market lays in Karhoguda to Somaram to Venkatapuram to Gopanpally to other places in the city, making the streets of Hyderabad dynamic, vibrant and buoyant.

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MAHIMA KAUSHAL VEGETABLE MARKET : PIC BY M KAUSHAL

THE STREET OF TOLI CHOWKI: EXPLORING THE SOMALIAN COMMUNITY

Nestled in the bustling city of Hyderabad lies the vibrant neighbourhood of Toli Chowki Known for its multicultural community, the area has recently become a hub for Somali health tourists seeking medical treatment in India. On an evening stroll through the streets of Toli Chowki, the sights, sounds, and smells transport one to the heart of Somalia.

Mohammad, a father from Somalia, came to Hyderabad with his daughter, who suffers from congenital heart disease "I heard about the advanced medical facilities in Hyderabad and decided to bring my daughter here for treatment," Mohammad said They settled in Toli Chowki, where they could easily access the hospitals and clinics in the area. "The community here has been very welcoming. It is like home, as there are many people from our community present here. Toli chowki feels like a mini Somalia." Mohammad added. Toli Chowki is alive with the sounds of vendors selling traditional Somali food and music playing from shops and restaurants The vibrant community in the street welcomes the visitors with open arms. Ibrahim, a student at Osmania University, came to Hyderabad to pursue higher education and is now studying computer science. "I chose Hyderabad because of its affordable tuition fees. It's a great city to live in," Ibrahim said.

Toli Chowki is a microcosm of the Somali culture in India. The community has its own unique food, music, and traditions. "We may be far away from our homeland, but our culture and traditions keep us connected to our roots," said Khadija, a member of the Somali community in Toli Chowki. "We've created a home away from home here in Toli Chowki," she added The Somalian community in Toli Chowki is a testament to the power of human resilience and the ability to thrive in unfamiliar surroundings. As the sun sets over the streets of Toli Chowki, the community continues to flourish, with its people bridging cultural divides and fostering a spirit of inclusivity.

SAFARNAMAA
RIJI ELSA ROY

G O L C O N D A

GOLCONDA STREET

ALIVE STREET AND THE DEAD PEOPLE

As I gazed upon the majestic Golconda Fort, bathed in the warm glow of the rising sun, I was awestruck by its grandeur and beauty. It was a testament to the rich history and culture of our ancestors, a sight to behold. However, as I slowly ventured deeper into the streets of Golconda, I was met with a stark contrast. The once-vibrant historical streets, brimming with life and stories, now lay broken and neglected. Yet, as I looked upon the walls, adorned with intricate carvings and designs, I felt them whispering tales of the past. Each stone seemed to hold a precious memory, an anecdote of our ancestors' lives and times.

SAFARNAMAA
MOHD ALI

Sadly, the people of these streets seemed unaware of this beauty, too caught up in their daily routines to appreciate the rich history and culture that surrounded them. They were oblivious to the grandeur of their ancestors and seemed almost dead to the world around them Sayed Mohammad, a retired police officer, shared that the streets were once much larger, able to accommodate 4 to 5 elephants walking abreast. However, with the end of the Nizam's rule and the merging of Hyderabad with India, outsiders began settling in the area, particularly around existing markets like Golconda Street Slowly but surely, people started encroaching on forest areas and building homes on the streets, leading to the proliferation of shops and bustling commerce

Unfortunately, this rapid expansion came at a cost

The sewage problem was rampant, leaving the streets in a state of disarray. Despite the efforts of hardworking street cleaners, many of the streets remained unclean and unkempt

As I walked through the streets, a sense of loss and nostalgia washed over me. The beauty and grandeur of the past had been forgotten, buried beneath the hustle and bustle of modern life It was a stark reminder that while progress is essential, we must never forget our roots and the legacy of our ancestors.

STREETVENDORLIGHTINGABIDI: PICBYMALI SAFARNAMAA
GOLCONDA FORT VIEW: PICBYMOHD][ALI

THE LITERARY PARADISE: WONDERS OF HYDERABAD'S KOTI BOOK STREET

A bustling and vibrant neighbourhood. A maze of narrow streets and alleys lined with shops and vendors selling everything from clothes and jewellery to spices and electronics. However, what sets Koti Street apart from other markets in the city is its rich history as a centre for books. The market is home to some of the oldest bookstores in Hyderabad, which sell a diverse range of books, from academic textbooks and novels to religious and spiritual texts Koti Street attracts book lovers from all over the city and even beyond. The book market has become an important part of Hyderabad's cultural heritage, and it is a testament to the city's long history of scholarship and learning.

"It's one of the oldest book markets. People from various places come here in search of books," says Mahesh Jyoti from Jyoti Book Hub. Despite the rise of e-books and digital media, the book market on Koti Street continues to thrive. Since the 19th century, Koti Street has been a hub for booksellers and publishers. The area is home to some of the oldest bookstores in the city, including popular ones like Raja Pocket Books, Bhanu Book Depot, and Vishalandra Book House

In the early 20th century, Koti Street became the hub of intellectual activity in Hyderabad. The area was home to some of the most renowned scholars and writers of the time, who would gather in the coffee houses and bookshops to discuss literature and politics. During the Indian freedom struggle, Koti Street played a significant role in spreading nationalist literature and promoting the cause of Indian independence. Many of the books and pamphlets that were distributed during this period were printed and published on this street.

Despite its reputation for books, the street has practically everything. A notable feature of this street is that, unlike other markets where price bargaining is the usual, practically everything here is sold at fixed rates. This is seen by the numerous signboards with set rates that can be found around Koti. "Koti is an affordable market. As we buy directly from manufacturers, the same product is more expensive outside," explains Khalid Khan, one of the shopkeepers

Overall, Koti Street is a bustling and active district with a distinct mix of history, culture, and business The book market, ancient buildings, and street food booths all contribute to it being one of Hyderabad's must-see destinations

SAFARNAMAA
RIJI ELSA ROY

BEGUM BAZAR: AUTHENTIC COLOUR OF THE ERA OF BEGUM

A Street full of traffic, crowd and with the faces of pleasure of being here at the street of Begum Bazar Hyderabad’s hidden gem begum bazar, a great spot of purchasing all kind of goods. It is a bustling market known for its wide range of products, including clothing, electronics, groceries, and more The market has a rich history, dating back to the time of the Nizams, the erstwhile rulers of Hyderabad, located in the heart of the old city. From traditional Hyderabadi bangles to the latest electronic gadgets, the market has it all It is especially famous for its wholesale market, where traders from all over the city come to buy goods in bulk.

There are interesting stories behind the name of the Begum Bazar The land of Begum Bazaar was gifted to the merchants of Hyderabad by Humda Begum, the wife of His Highness Nizam Ali Khan, Asaf Jah II, for trade and commerce. After developing into a market, this bazaar came to be known as Begum Bazaar. According to locals, the Begum used to visit the market frequently to buy goods for her royal household Over time, the market grew in popularity and became a hub for traders and shoppers alike.

The narrow lanes and crowded streets just like the old Delhi lanes and gives the same vintage vibes It can be quite overwhelming for first-time visitors, but with a little bit of patience and a lot of bargaining skills, one can find some great deals.

One of the highlights of the market is the annual Bonalu festival, in the months of July and August The festival is a celebration of the goddess Mahakali and is marked by processions, music, and dance. The market comes alive during this time, with vendors selling everything from flowers to traditional clothing. Even in the age of digitalization and online shopping, people still love this market and come here to explore and enjoy the vibe it has.

Begum Bazar is not just a market, it is unique, carrying the fragrance and heritage of the times of Nizams and Begums

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SAKSHI

SULTAN BAZ AR S REE

Sultan Bazar is one of the oldest and busiest shopping areas in Hyderabad. It is located in the heart of the city's commercial district and is known for its wide variety of merchandise, ranging from textiles and clothing to electronics and household goods.

Just like every place has its own rich history, this market also has an amazing back history which tells us about how it gets his name. The name comes from the Nizam's army commander, Mir Osman Ali Khan, who was later crowned as the seventh Nizam of Hyderabad, with the title of Sultan. The bazaar has an authentic vintage vibe like dating back to the time of the Nizams, the former rulers of Hyderabad. The bazaar was originally built to cater to the needs of the Nizam's army, and over time, it grew to become a major commercial hub.

One of the unique features of Sultan Bazar is its old-world charm. The market is a maze of narrow lanes and alleys, lined with shops selling a variety of goods. It is a bustling and chaotic place, with vendors and shoppers jostling for space. Despite the crowds, the bazaar has a certain charm that attracts visitors from all over the city.

Sultan Bazar is famous for its textile and clothing shops, which offer a wide range of fabrics and garments at affordable prices. The market is also known for its traditional bangles, which come in a variety of colors and designs. Visitors can find everything from hand-woven sarees to modern western wear in the bazaar.

Another interesting aspect of Sultan Bazar is its food culture. The market is home to a variety of street food vendors, offering everything from chaat and samosas to biryani and kebabs. Visitors can sample some of the city's famous dishes while taking a break from their shopping.

In recent years, the market has faced competition from modern malls and shopping centres in the city However, Sultan Bazar continues to attract visitors who are looking for a unique shopping experience and a taste of Hyderabad's rich history and culture.

Sultan Bazar is one of the must-visit destination for anyone interested in exploring Hyderabad's vibrant culture and history. With its narrow lanes, bustling crowds, and colorful merchandise, it offers a glimpse into the city's past while also catering to modern shopping needs

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SAKSHI

FLOWER MARKET FLOWER MARKET FLOWER MARKET

As soon as you step into Koti Flower Market, you are transported into a world of beauty and scent. The air is thick with the fragrance of fresh flowers, and the streets are lined with shops selling every kind of bloom imaginable. The district is a riot of colors, with flowers in every hue and shade, from bright yellows to deep purples and everything in between The Koti Flower Market in Hyderabad, also known as the Koti Sultan Bazar Flower Market, is a popular destination for flower enthusiasts and vendors in the city Located in the Koti area of Hyderabad, it is one of the largest flower markets in the region. The market is known for its vibrant and colorful display of flowers, offering a wide variety of blooms, garlands, and decorative flower arrangements. It caters to both wholesale and retail customers, including individuals, event planners, florists, and temple decorators. Walking through the streets of Koti, you will see florists putting together stunning bouquets and arrangements, each one a work of art Every shop has its own unique style, and the creativity on display is truly breathtaking. The florists here are experts in their craft, with years of experience in choosing the best flowers, arranging them in just the right way, and creating designs that are both beautiful and meaningful The market is usually bustling with activity in the early morning hours when fresh flowers arrive from various parts of Telangana and neighbouring states

The market offers a range of flowers, including roses, marigolds, jasmine, lilies, orchids, and seasonal blooms. Apart from the flowers themselves, the market also provides essential supplies for flower arrangements, such as floral foam, ribbons, vases, and other decorative materials. Vendors at the market are experienced in handling flowers and can offer advice on selecting and caring for different varieties.

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THE RISE OF HYDERABAD'S HIGHTECH HUB

Gachibowli, in the western portion of Hyderabad, has recently developed as a booming centre for the hightech industry. With multiple global firms establishing offices in the neighbourhood, Gachibowli has become a popular destination for both IT enthusiasts and professionals.

The change of the area began in the early 2000s, when the Telangana government began pushing the growth of a knowledge-based economy in the state Gachibowli was highlighted as a prospective IT industry cluster due to its strategic location, strong infrastructure, and qualified people

Today, Gachibowli is home to some of the biggest names in the tech industry, including Microsoft, Apple, and Google, among others. With its world-class infrastructure, the area has become a hub for innovation and technology, attracting talent from around the world. The rise of Gachibowli as a high-tech hub has brought significant benefits to the local economy. As more companies set up their offices in the area, there has been an increase in job opportunities and economic growth. The area has also witnessed a surge in real estate prices, with many people investing in property in and around Gachibowli. However, with the rapid growth and development, there have also been some challenges The rise in real estate prices has made it difficult for many locals to afford homes in the area, and traffic congestion has become a significant issue.

Despite these challenges, Gachibowli continues to be a driving force for the tech industry in Hyderabad As one tech professional notes, "Gachibowli is an exciting place to be for anyone interested in technology and innovation With so many companies located here, there are endless opportunities for growth and learning."

The rise of Gachibowli as a high-tech hub is a testament to Hyderabad's growing reputation as a hub for technology and innovation With its strategic location, skilled workforce, and excellent infrastructure, Gachibowli is poised to become one of the most important high-tech destinations in the world.

Gachibowli
SAFARNAMAA

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