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LET’S GET SEWING 6 FREE PROJECTS TO MAKE FOR YOUR HOME Including top tips from the authors

From camping mats to table runners, floor cushions and curtains too!


MAKE The CICO Craft Community

Dear Maker

Thank you for downloading this home sewing bookazine from MAKE: The CICO Craft Community. The projects have been hand-picked from our lovely sewing books. We hope you enjoy the selection! Tag us in photos of your makes, we’d love to see how you get on.

Happy sewing! Jen and co, MAKE


Contents Floor pillow Oilcloth shopper Vintage throw Coat hanger cover Camping mat Table runner Tie top curtains Making ties Book credits





12 14 18


22 23

YOU WILL NEED 30in. (75cm) each of 2 coordinating fabrics Sewing thread to match fabrics 25 ½ -in. (65-cm) square pillow form 2 self-cover buttons 1 ¼ in. (3cm) in diameter Tape measure Fabric scissors Pins Sewing machine Iron Sewing needle Upholstery thread and needle MEASUREMENTS 25 ½ x 25 ½ in. (65 x 65cm) SEAMS Take 5/8-in. (1.5-cm) seam allowances throughout unless otherwise stated.

F loor cushion

Make a pile of these comfy floor pillows to sink into with a good book or to provide extra seating when guests come to visit. Use two different fabrics for each pillow and cover the button at the center of each pillow with a coordinating fabric for extra interest. The covers cannot be taken off without removing the buttons, so make sure you use pillow forms that are machine washable so that you can throw the whole thing into the machine for easy cleaning.

1. Cut a 26 ¾-in. (68-cm)

square of each fabric. Lay one square right side up on your work surface and place the second one right side down on top of it, aligning all edges. Pin and machine stitch all around, leaving a gap of about 12in. (30cm) in one side. Trim the corners close to the stitching to reduce the bulk.

2. Turn the cover right side out 3. Following the

and press. Insert the pillow form and slipstitch the opening closed, using small stitches. Find the center point of the pillow cover on both sides and mark with a pin.

manufacturer’s instructions, cover the buttons with fabric. Thread an upholstery needle and knot the thread. Stitch through the pillow at the central pin and thread on a button. Take the needle back though the pillow and thread a button onto the other side. Pull the thread firmly to pull the buttons into the pillow. Stitch back through the buttons a couple of times and secure with a few stitches.




Oilcloth shopper

You can never have too many shopping bags! For this shopper, I used a softer cotton vinyl (PVC) fabric that has a wipe-clean finish. Because the front, base, and back are cut as one piece, you’ll need to choose a fabric that looks good upside down. The long straps are made from herringbone tape adorned with grosgrain ribbon.

1. With right sides together and raw

edges even, paperclip the top 13 3/8in (34cm) of the left-hand long edge of the main piece to the right-hand long edge of one of the side pieces (see Tips about sewing on oilcloth, on page 129). Stitch a 3/8in (1cm) seam, stopping 3/8in (1cm) before the lower edge of the side piece. At the point where the stitching ends, snip into the seam allowance of the main piece at right angles to the stitching.

2. Pivoting the fabric around the

corner, paperclip the middle 4in (10cm) of the left edge of the main piece to the bottom edge of the side piece, with right sides together and raw edges even. Stitch a 3/8in (1cm) seam, starting and stopping 3/8in (1cm) from the edges of the side piece. Snip into the seam allowance of the main piece, as in step 1.

3. Again pivoting the fabric around the corner,

paperclip the remainder of the left edge of the main piece to the other long edge of the side piece, with right sides together and raw edges even. Starting at the top edge, stitch a 3/8in (1cm) seam, stopping 3/8in (1cm) from the bottom.


YOU WILL NEED One 30 ¾ x 16 ¾ in (78 x 42cm) rectangle of vinyl(PVC-) coated cotton fabric, for main piece Two 13 ¾ x 4 ¾ in (35 x 12cm) rectangles of vinylcoated cotton fabric, for side pieces Matching sewing thread One 40 ¾ x 1 ½. in (102 x 4cm) strip of vinyl-coated cotton fabric, for facing Two 19in (48cm) lengths of 5/8in- (15mm-) wide fusible bonding web Two 19in (48cm) lengths of 5/8in- (15mm-) wide grosgrain ribbon (with decorative stitching along edges, if desired) Two 19in (48cm) lengths of 1in- (25mm-) wide cotton herringbone tape Two 16 x 4in (40 x 10cm) rectangles of vinyl-coated cotton fabric, for base insert One 16 x 4in (40 x 10cm) rectangle of stiff interfacing, for base insert Teflon foot for sewing machine MEASUREMENTS The finished bag measures 16in (40cm) wide x 4in (10cm) deep x 13in (33cm) tall.

4. Repeat steps 1–3 to attach the

other long edge of the main piece to the other side piece. Snip off the corners of the seam allowances, and turn right side out. Using a blunt-ended tool such as the rounded end of a chopstick, carefully push out the corners.

5. With right sides together

and raw edges even, paperclip the short edges of the facing together, and stitch a 3/8in (1cm) seam, forming a ring. Following the manufacturer’s instructions, iron one side of the fusible bonding web to one grosgrain ribbon, and then the other side to one length of herringbone tape, to bond the ribbon down the center of the tape. Repeat for the other ribbon and tape.

6. With raw edges even, paperclip the ends of one

handle to the front of the bag at the top edge, 4 ¼ in (11cm) from the side seams, with the ribbon side of the handle facing the right side of the bag. Paperclip the second handle to the back of the bag in the same way. Place the bag facing on top, right side down, with raw edges even, and with the seam even with one of the seams on the bag. The handles will be sandwiched between the facing and the bag. Stitch a 3/8in (1cm) seam around the top.

7. Turn the facing to the inside of the bag

along the seam line, finger press, and paperclip in place. Topstitch 3/8in (1cm) from the edge, and again 3/8in (1cm) below this stitching.

8. For the base insert, sandwich the rectangle of stiff interfacing

between the two vinyl rectangles with wrong sides together and raw edges even; paperclip in place. Stitch them together ¼ in (5mm) seam from the edges. Place inside the base of the bag.


Vintage throw

Who would have thought you could turn a pile of old hankies (well washed!) into something so stunningly beautiful? Keep a look out for pretty floral ones at garage sales (boot fairs) and flea markets. If you are lucky you may come across some vintage examples made of crepe or silk. They will be in different sizes and often a bit wobbly around the edges, but I have found a way to make even-sized blocks for a patchwork, and a few wavy lines will only add to the charm. I have made my throw without batting (wadding) as I wanted a thin cotton version, but you can add batting (wadding) if you like.

1. Take one of the handkerchiefs

and one of the pieces of cotton fabric. Center the hankie on the cotton and pin in position. Sew a line of stitching all around the hankie, close to the edge. Repeat for all the other hankies. Some handkerchiefs will fill all of the cotton fabric and some will have a border around them.

2. Lay all the squares on the floor in

four rows of three and move them around until you are happy with the arrangement. Take the first and second squares and place them right sides together. Pin and sew down one edge with a 1/2 in. (1 cm) seam allowance. Attach the third square in the row in the same way. Repeat to make the remaining three rows.


YOU WILL NEED 12 handkerchiefs ironed flat 12 pieces of thin cotton fabric measuring 14 x 14 in. (36 x 36 cm) Pins Sewing machine Backing fabric measuring 53 x 40 in. (138 x 104 cm) Needle and sewing thread Thin batting (wadding) measuring 53 x 40 in. (138 x 104 cm) (optional) Scissors

Top Tip

The handkerchiefs can be different colors and patterns, but I think it is nice to have subtle colors so that the individual patterns stand out.

3. Take the first and second rows you

made in Step 2. With right sides together pin the two rows together along one edge with a ½ in. (1 cm) seam allowance. Join with a row of stitching. To complete the front of the throw, join the third and forth rows of squares to the first and second in the same way.

4. Place the patched panel and the backing fabric with

right sides together. Make sure all the edges are aligned and pin all around the edge. Sew all around the edge, with a ½ in. (1 cm) seam allowance, and leaving a gap in the seam measuring approximately 6 in. (16 cm) long.

5. Turn the throw the right way out. Fold

in the raw edges in the gap at the seam and close up the gap using slipstitch. Press.

6. Sew a line of stitching along the

horizontal seams on the throw, where each row of squares joins the next. Now sew down the seams that run vertically on the throw. This forms a grid of overstitching that joins the three layers of the throw together. Press.

Top Tip

Adding Batting (Wadding) When assembling the throw in Step 4, lay the batting (wadding) down first, then the patched panel facing up, and then the backing fabric facing down. Pin all around and sew with a ½ in. (1 cm) seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance and turn the right way out. Follow step 5 to close the gap.



Coat hanger cover

YOU WILL NEED These make lovely gifts and are ideal for hanging up your favorite Wire coat hanger clothes or brightening up your laundry room. The instructions include Two 18 x 20in (45 x 25cm)CB873 SEW PRETTY padding, which is useful for CB873 protecting the shoulders of jackets and SEW PRETTY rectangles each of fabric and 25- coat hanger cover dresses, but it can be omitted if you prefer. 25- coat hanger cover cotton batting (wadding) per coat hanger Matching sewing thread For each cover, place the coat One 34in (85cm) length of hanger on the wrong side of bias tape (bias binding) per your fabric, and draw around the coat hanger © 07875 243 960 summer 2014




© 07875 243 960 summer 2014

outside of the hanger, excluding the hook, adding a 3/8in (1cm) seam allowance all around the sides and top, and adding 3in (7.5cm) at the bottom. Carefully cut out two pieces of fabric and two pieces of batting (wadding).

2. Pin each fabric piece right side up to one piece of batting. Baste (tack) together .in (5mm) from the edge.


© 07875 243 960 summer 2014

3. Pin the two padded pieces with

25- coat hanger cover


© 07875 243 960 summer 2014

25- coat hanger cover 2



right sides together and raw edges even. Stitch a 3/8in (1cm) seam all around the sides and top, leaving a gap at the center of the top for the coat hanger hook. Do not stitch across the bottom. Snip off the corners of the seam allowance and 3 remove the basting stitches.




Turn the cover right side out and, using a blunt-ended tool such as the rounded end of a chopstick, carefully push out the corners. Bind the front hem and back hem continuously using the bias tape (bias binding. Insert the 4 coat hanger into the cover from the bottom, and push the hook through the opening at the top.



Camping mat

There are only three not-lovely things about camping, and a damp derrière is one of them. (Since you ask, small flying things that bite and erratic facilities are the others.) Thankfully, damp unmentionables are easily averted with a practical but also deeply gorgeous mat. The waterproof backing is topped with patchwork: I’ve included some crochet granny squares in my version, but yours can be just as perfect made entirely from fabric.

1. The way to make up the

patchwork top is to sew together pieces into strips and then join these to make rows. So, the patches in each strip need to be the same width, but can be different lengths. Stagger the horizontal seams in adjacent strips to reduce bulk. Cut two patches to the same width and pin them right sides together. Sew the seam taking a 3â „8 in (1-cm) seam allowance, and press the seam open. Repeat to make a strip of patches.

2. If you are incorporating

granny squares into your mat, then they will determine the width of the strips they are in. The pattern has an extra round of single (double) crochet around the edge, and this acts as a seam allowance. I found it easiest to press under the seam allowances of fabric patches to be joined to crochet squares, then I could see to position the edge of the fabric in the right place on the crochet and pin the pieces together. Open the seam allowances out and sew the seam along the pressed line.


YOU WILL NEED Piece of oilcloth (or similar plastic-backed fabric), the size you want the mat to be: mine is 42 x 30in (110 x 80cm) Small pieces of mediumweight fabrics: I used corduroy and wool woven fabrics, plus a bit of an old sweater (the orange cabled patch), and some crochet granny squares Enough 2-in (5-cm) wide cotton tape to go right around your mat, plus 8in (20cm) for mitering corners and neatening the ends Fabric scissors Iron and ironing board Pins Sewing threads to match fabrics Sewing machine

3. If you pin and sew carefully, the seam will be very neat on the crochet squares as well as the fabric. Avoid having a crochet square on any edges of the mat, as the binding (see Step 6) will intrude into the pattern.

4. Sew the columns together to make the patchwork mat top. When you are sewing, you might find it easiest to have strips with crochet squares uppermost, then crochet squares uppermost, then you can see to sew across them in the right place.

5. Lay the patchwork mat top

on the waterproof backing, wrong sides together. Smooth the top flat and pin the layers together close to the edge: don’t put pins elsewhere in the mat or its waterproofness will be compromised and a damp derrière will creep in. Trim any excess fabric from the patchwork to fit the backing, then sew right around the edge, 1⁄4 in (6mm) in, to hold the layers together

Dye it

I could only find the cotton tape I wanted in cream or black, so I bought cream and dyed it bright orange to go with my mat. But it did shrink a bit… So if you are going to custom-dye tape, buy a yard (meter) more than you need (it won’t shrink quite that much, but the tape isn’t expensive, and better safe than sorry). While I was dying my tape I ombre-dyed a piece of corduroy; you can see it in the mat. I washed the fabric and while it was damp, dunked one end into the dye batch and clothes-pinned the other end to the faucet. I left it for an hour, and while the dye didn’t creep very far up the fabric, the effect was good.


6. Press the cotton tape in

half lengthwise. Starting a short distance before one corner, fold the tape over the edge of the mat and pin in place to the corner.

7. Stitching about Âź in (6mm) from

the edge, sew up to the corner, reversing at the start and end of the stitching to secure it.

8. Fold the tape around the corner to

make a neat miter. Pin and then sew the tape in place right along to the next corner. Repeat at every corner to bind the edges of the whole mat.

9. Before sewing the last edge, fold 3â „8

in (1cm) of the end of the tape under, trimming off any excess as needed, and lap it over the starting point. Pin in place, then sew the tape, sewing right over the folded end.


YOU WILL NEED 15 x 43 in. (38 x 109 cm) natural linen fabric 13 ¾ x 13 ¾ in. (35 x 35 cm) dark blue-and-white polka-dot fabric Dark blue embroidery floss (thread) White sewing thread Basic kit

Table Runner

As the oldest manufacturer of pottery, earthenware, and porcelain in Finland, Arabia is deservedly famous throughout Scandinavia and the world. Founded in 1873, it has given us heaps of gorgeously designed crockery. The ones I love the most are the white and blue types, and here I have made an attempt to create a mid-century design of my own in Arabia style.

1. On all four sides of the linen fabric, fold

over a double 3/8-in. 1-cm) hem and press well. Machine stitch around all four sides.

2. Along each of the two short

edges, embroider three dark-blue “crosses.” Start with the middle cross: the center circle should sit 6 3/4 in. (17 cm) in from the side edges and 2 in. (5 cm) from up the bottom edge and should be 3⁄8 in. (1 cm) in diameter. Sew the circles in satin stitch and the lines connecting them in straight stitch, leaving 1 in. (2.5 cm) between the bottom circle and the bottom edge of the linen. Position the remaining two crosses centrally between the side edge and the center cross.

Top Tip

Stitch slowly, as close to the circle edge as possible, taking care to keep your stitching in a neat circle.

3. Cut out four circles

of dark blue-and-white polka-dot fabric about 3 in. (8 cm) in diameter, trying to position the dots in the same place on each circle.


4. Fold the linen in half widthwise

and press with a hot iron to mark the center. Place two circles on the center crease, 1 1/4 in. (3 cm) from the long edges, and the remaining two circles in between them, 1 1/2 in. (4 cm) from the center crease.

6. Using the same shade of 5. Thread your machine

with white sewing thread and carefully stitch around the edge of each circle.

dark blue embroidery floss that you used earlier and following the ironed crease line, sew a line of straight stitches between the two circles nearest the long edges of the runner. Repeat between the two remaining circles. Press the linen carefully— it’s a gorgeous fabric, but it creases really easily!


YOU WILL NEED Decorator fabric—see below for yardage Matching sewing thread Pins Sewing threads to match fabrics Sewing machine MEASUREMENTS 25 1/2 x 25 1/2 in. (65 x 65cm) SEAMS Take 5/8-in. (1.5-cm) seam allowances throughout unless otherwise stated.

Tie top curtains

Light and breezy at the window of our restored shepherd’s hut, these unlined curtains are made in Pretty Maids, Teal and Winter. They are another really easy project to make—simply sew a set of narrow ties and attach them to a pole.

1. Cut out all the required

pieces for each curtain panel. Join the fabric lengths, if necessary, to form the finished panel widths (see page 188). Press a double-fold 5⁄8in (1.5cm) hem to the wrong side along one long edge and both short edges of the facing. Pin and machine-stitch the hems. Press a double-fold 5⁄8in (1.5cm) hem to the wrong side along both side edges of the curtain panels. Pin and machine-stitch in place.

Estimating yardage

Measure your window to find the finished width and length of the curtains. Add 4in (10cm) to the length measurement for the lower hem and 5⁄8in (1.5cm) for a top seam allowance. To achieve the proper fullness, this heading needs fabric that measures one-and-a-half times the width of your window. For the facing, allow for a strip of fabric 4in (10cm) deep by the width of each cut curtain panel. Calculate how many ties you will need along the top edges of both curtain panels. For each tie allow a strip 27 ½ x 3 ¾ in (70 x 9.5cm).


2. Make up the ties using

method 1 (see page 22), finishing both ends on each; cut each in half. Decide the positions of the ties, spacing them about 6in (15cm) apart (see page 22), but with the outer ones about 3in (7.5cm) from the edges. Lay out one curtain panel, right side up. Pin two ties at every tie position, one on top of the other, with the raw ends even with the curtain raw edge. Pin and baste in place. Repeat with second panel and remaining ties.

3. With right sides together, and

with the raw and hemmed edges even, place a facing on top of each curtain panel, sandwiching the ties in between. Pin and baste the facing in place across the top edge of each curtain panel. Machine-stitch a 5â „8in (1.5cm) seam. Remove the basting.

4. Fold the facing over to the

wrong side of each curtain panel, exposing the ties, and press the seamed top edge flat. If you wish, machine-stitch close to the top edge. Pin and baste the lower edge of the facing to the curtain, and machinestitch in place. Slipstitch the open side edges together. Press a doublefold 2in (5cm) hem along the lower edge of each curtain; pin, baste, and either hemstitch or machine-stitch in place. Slipstitch each lower hem’s open side edges. Remove all the basting. Use the ties to hang the curtains from the pole.


Making ties

This method has the advantage of not having to be turned right side out after stitching (which can be difficult with narrow ties), but the stitching shows from the right side.

1. Using dressmakers’ chalk and a long ruler,

draw parallel lines along the straight grain of your fabric, with the distance between them equal to four times the finished width of the ties, and the length equal to the finished length of the ties plus two hem or seam allowances (see step 2)—or to the dimensions specified in the project. Cut along the lines using scissors, or a rotary cutter with a ruler and cutting mat.

2. If an end of a tie will be stitched into a

seam on your project, there is no need to finish it, but if it will be exposed, press Âź in (5mm) to the wrong side at that end.


If you need to make a lot of ties, it can be easier to make one long strip and then cut it into the required lengths and appropriate number of ties. Finish any raw ends that will be exposed by pushing them up inside the tie tubes and slipstitching in place.

3. Press each strip in half along the length,

wrong sides together. Open the strip and press the long raw edges to the wrong side to meet at the center.

4. Fold each strip in half again along the


length, bringing the pressed long edges together and enclosing the raw edges completely. Pin and machine-stitch close to the turned-under edges along the full length of the strip, and across the end(s) if the hems have been pushed inside in step 2.

Book credits Learn to Sew by Emma Hardy Published by CICO Books Available August 2016 For more information:

Torie Jayne’s Stylish Home Sewing Published by CICO Books 2015 For more information:

A Year in Crafts by Clare Youngs Published by CICO Books 2014 For more information:

Sewlicious by Kate Haxell Published by CICO Books 2014 For more information:

Sew Scandinavian by Kajsa Kinsella Published by CICO Books 2014 For more information:

The Home-sewn Home by Vanessa Arbuthnott Published by CICO Books 2014 For more information:




6 free projects to make for you home | MAKE The CICO Craft Community


6 free projects to make for you home | MAKE The CICO Craft Community