Best Of Iceland, Summer 2022

1 The Travel Awards

grapevine.is/bestof

2022

0ver 100 AwardWinning Destinations!

Dining & Drinking, Swimming, Hiking, Where To Stay, What To See & So Much More

North

West & Westfjords

South & Reykjanes

East

Learn About Vikings & Dress Like One Too!

A Romantic Road-Trip Through Snæfellsnes

Diving The Hidden Glacial Waters Of Daviðsgjá

Hiking For All Levels and Experience

Geothermal Paradises

Bird Cliffs & Red Beaches

The Must-See Spots

Best Eats In The East

The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

Summer 2022

▶ YOUR FREE COPY ◀

Special Issue

2 The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

The wonder of our water Thirty years ago, we began researching Blue Lagoon Water.

Today, we have unlocked its secrets.

Harnessed its powers. Explored its possibilities.

We have created a universe of radiant wellbeing.

The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

3

4

In this issue

The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

South

08

ʚ A diving trip to Davíðsgjá ʚ Reykjanes... you know... that place with the volcano?

P10 P16

AN INTRODUCTION

Time To Travel We’re back! Yes, after a three year hiatus, we at the Grapevine are so pleased to return with Best of Iceland, our guide to the best things this beautiful country has to offer.

Our panel this year was composed of famed travel photographers, high-end trip planners, prolific countryside foodies, and long-time travel journalists, meaning that the standards were high and discussion was fierce. But after a long decision making process, we’re proud to present you our list of winners and runner-ups.

This year, they range from celebrated Icelandic institutions to small blink-and-you’ll-miss-it hidden gems—like a gas station that serves some of the best lamb in the country. What?

Anyway, while you’re here, be sure to pick up a copy of our flagship publication, The Reykjavík Grapevine—it’s packed with news, culture and info on the top events in town.

If you’re looking for what to do in the city, don’t miss our Best of Reykjavík magazine

to learn what’s worth checking out in the capital. And finally, make sure to watch our YouTube channel and, of course, listen to our new podcast The Icelandic Roundup for the latest news and goings-on in Iceland.

Fall in love with any tours? Support our journalism by booking any tours you’re interested in, whether in Reykjavík or anywhere else in the country, through our booking site, gotravel.grapevine.is. You can also directly support us by becoming a member of our High Five Club or checking out our shop at shop.grapevine.is. We’re an independent publication, and we’d like to stay that way.

Thanks for reading, and remember, the real treasure is the friends we make along the way.

gotravel.is PUBLISHER

BEST OF ICELAND 2022 Winter 2022 Edition by

BEST OF EDITOR

Hannah Jane Cohen hannah@grapevine.is GRAPEVINE EDITOR IN CHIEF

Hafnarstræti 15 101 Reykjavík www.grapevine.is

Valur Grettisson valur@grapevine.is

Published by Fröken ehf.

Printed by Ísafold

Art Bicnick art@grapevine.is

Member of the Icelandic Travel Industry Association www.saf.is

PHOTO EDITOR

ʚ West is best! What to do, where to eat, and where to stay! ʚ Southern Westfjords > Tenerife

North

18 P22 P28

34

ʚ Dress like a Viking (and also learn at the same time...) ʚ The must-see spots of the North

P36 P38

Hannah Jane Cohen Editor, Best Of Reykjavík

Browse the tours we’ve recommended at

Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson hilmar@grapevine.is +354 540 3601 publisher@grapevine.is

West & Westfjords

EDITORIAL

+354 540 3600 editor@grapevine.is ADVERTISING

+354 540 3604 +354 540 3610 ads@grapevine.is CONTRIBUTING WRITERS

Andie Sophia Fontaine John Pearson Poppy Askham Sam O’Donnell CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

Anna Dominick Art Bicnick Clarence Voon John Rogers Nanna Dís Timothée Lambrecq

East

42

ʚ Sushi? In rural Iceland? ʚ Swim and hike in Iceland’s rugged East

MAPS SUPPLIED BY

Borgarmynd www.borgarmynd.com PANELLISTS

Hannah Jane Cohen Josie Gaitens Sædís Steinsdóttir Norris Niman Sanna Nordahl Shruthi Basappa Gunnar Freyr Gunnarsson

SALES DIRECTORS

Aðalsteinn Jörundsson adalsteinn@grapevine.is Helgi Þór Harðarson helgi@grapevine.is DISTRIBUTION

No articles in the Reykjavík Grapevine are paid-for articles. The opinions expressed are the writers’ own, not the advertisers’.

distribution@grapevine.is Best of Iceland by The Reykjavík Grapevine is published by Fröken ltd.

Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publishers. The Best of Iceland is distributed around Reykjavík.

BEST OF ICELAND EMBLEM

Siggi Odds siggiodds.com COVER PHOTO

Art Bicnick

P44 P47

5 The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

LOOKING FOR A LAST-MINUTE ADVENTURE FROM REYKJAVIK? Book a combination tour and do two activities in one day.

Adventures.is | Making memories since 1983

Scan Me

6 The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

THE AWARDS

How We Picked The Winners For a small country, Iceland is actually pretty big, as you’ve maybe discovered in planning a trip around this island, with its roads winding around fjords, through all-but-impassable mountain passes, along the edge of rocky cliffs, to far-flung fishing villages, hidden hot pots, a n d barren beaches.

And with every small blue or yellow sign you drive past—in a language you can’t read, signaling a place you’ve never heard of, accessible via

a muddy and rutted rural track—the question naturally arises: What did I just miss?

Well, we’re glad you asked. For our Best of Iceland special issue, we at The Reykjavík Grapevine convened panels of experts—artists and musicians, tourism and hospitality workers—ready to opine on the natural and man-made highlights of Iceland’s five regions. The panellists made impassioned and often surprising cases for their favourite spots; we debated, we bargained; we weighed options carefully, we followed our hearts; we consulted a local völva, or seeress; we put a GPS tracker on a raven and monitored its flight. Much of that last sentence is true.

Now, voyager, sail thou forth, to seek and find. MA

FIND EVERY GOOD THING IN REYKJAVÍK! Grab a copy of Best Of Reykjavík

ine.iss* v e p a p.grapevine.iis shop gr ne. s shop..grapeviin e.i shop.grapevine.is shop.grapevine.is shop.grapev s ho Don't Hesitate!

Act Now!

* You only need to type the URL in once

Look For These Stickers Out There In The Wide World You'll find these stickers of recommendation, which we’ve handed out to this year’s winners, on your way around the country. They indicate your best option, whatever you're looking for in the far-flung corners of Iceland. We at the Grapevine know what's best!

2022

Look Out For These Badges In The Magazine ALERT!

When you see this red badge, this route, hike or attraction is totally inaccessible for large parts of the winter (often roughly considered to be November-April).

Don’t travel without checking for info via road.is and checking in with local tourist information services.

SEEK LOCAL INFO

A yellow badge means that an establishment’s opening hours might be sporadic; that a tour company may offer seasonal alternatives; or that hiking routes and nature sites may be closed due to adverse conditions.

Check in advance for info from the locals who know.

*Best Ice Cream according to Reykjavik Grapevine

THE GUIDE-GUIDE

FIVE YEARS FIVE consecutive consecutive YEARS

*

*

THE

REYKJAVÍK

THE

REYKJAVÍK

GRAPEVINE GRAPEVINE

O F R E Y KJ AV ST Í B E S T O F R E Y K J A VK ÍK BE

2022 2022 BE BSE T I C E C R E A MM ST ICE CREA THE THE

REYKJAVÍK REYKJAVÍK

GRAPEVINE GRAPEVINE

OF R EYKJ S T O F R E Y K JAAVVÍ K BE ES T ÍK B

2021 2021 B EB

SE TS TI C E C R E AAMM ICE CRE

THE

THE

REYKJAVÍK REYKJAVÍK

GRAPEVINE GRAPEVINE

O F FRREEYYKKJJAAVV S TS T O Í KÍ K B EB E

2020 2020 B EB E S T S T I CI CEECCRREEAAMM THE

REYKJAVÍK REYKJAVÍK

THE

GRAPEVINE GRAPEVINE

REY TOOF FR E Y KKJJAA V Í VÍ K SETS K B EB

2019 2019 B B E E S T I C E C R E AMM ST ICE CREA THE

REYKJAVÍK

REYKJAVÍK

THE

GRAPEVINE

GRAPEVINE

*Best Ice Cream according to Reykjavik Grapevine *Best Ice Cream according to Reykjavik Grapevine

O F R E Y KJ AV ST Í E BSET O F R Y K J A V K ÍK BE

2018 2018 BE ST ICE CREAM BE ST ICE CREAM

LAUGARÁSVEGI 1 LAUGARÁSVEGI 1

KALDIDALUR

F508

1 1

Akranes

8 The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

36

B L Á FJ Ö L L

39

S E LT Ú N

SELATA N G A R

KRÝSUVÍKURBJARG

KERIÐ

38 Selfoss

Þorlákshöfn

Grindavík

427

Sólheimar 31

34

STÖNG

32

F225

ÞJÓRSÁRDALUR

26

30

G A LTA L Æ K U R

1

268

26

33

Eyrarbakki Stokkseyri

32

F208

Þjórsá

Flúðir

364

Hveragerði

Ölfusá

THE BLUE LAGOON

GUNNUHVER

1

F26

Reykholt

S K Á L H O LT

Laugarás 35

417

Þórisvatn

35

37

HEIÐMÖRK

Kleifarvatn

43

37

Laugavatn

365

N E S J AV E L L I R

41

44

REYKJANESVITI

Þingvallavatn

F26

GULLFOSS

GEYSIR ÚTHLÍÐ

ÞINGVELLIR

Mosfellsbær

42

Hvítá

35

GLJÚFRASTEINN

Hafnarfjörður

Keflavík

425

48

Kópavogur

Garður

F338

52

41

36

Reykjavík

K E F L AV Í K A I R P O RT

G LY M U R

1

Kjalarnes

Sandgerði

F338

UXAHRYGGIR

41

Hella

305

LANDMANNALAUGAR

264

25

BEST OF ICELAND:

F210

264

Hvolsvöllur

255

South

F261

261

1 252

FLJÓTSHLÍÐ 250

249

ÞÓRSMÖRK K AT L A

SELJALANDSFOSS FIMMVÖRÐUHÁLS

SKÓGAR BAKKAHÖFN

Small towns & beautiful hikes from Reykjanes to Höfn

221

Vík í Mýrdal

V E S T M A N N A E YJ A R

DYRHÓLAEY

A

B

C

F210

D

E

F

G

H

I

J

Road Trip: Reykjanes

Hike: Svartifoss

Visit: Dyrhólaey & Reynisfjara

Eat: Minilik

Southwest Iceland Info: visitreykjanes.is

Vatnajökull National Park Info: vatnajokulsthjodgardur.is

South Iceland Info: south.is

Flúðir Info: minilik.is

This Reykjavík-adjacent volcanic peninsula is where people enter the country at Keflavík Airport, but holds much more besides. You can easily fill a day with a road trip around the eerie Kleifarvatn lake, the multisensory Krýsuvík and Gunnuhver geothermal areas, the bustling town of Grindavík, the stunning viewpoint of Reykjanesviti, and, oh yeah, did we mention the Geldingadalir Volcano?

For non-drivers, there’s also guided tours. See our awards for the Reykjanes area from page 16.

Map Square: B3 to D2

Goth? Geologist? Nature enthusiast? Whatever your persuasion, you’ll enjoy the sublime beauty of Svartifoss. It’s a severe, dark, glossy waterfall surrounded by thick, black, hexagonal basalt columns that lean together into a cathedral-like semicircular dome, demanding respect, veneration and, above all else, Instagram photos. The hike to the falls is a relaxing 45-minute jaunt each way, with just a few steep segments, making it suitable for hikers of all experience levels. Make sure to pay for parking—it’s easy to miss! O2

Reynisfjara is an Instagram-friendly beach backed by sheer basalt columns. The sea arch at the Dyrhólaey bird preserve is off to the east, and right offshore are the Reynisdrangar sea stacks (by legend, a petrified troll that was caught out in the sun attempting to drag a ship back to its cave). It’s a truly spectacular site that’s just off the main road. Please make sure to watch the waves from a safe distance and heed the warnings posted along the beach; Reynisfjara is known for sleeper waves and a very strong undertow. K5

You might not expect Flúðir to be a hotspot for Ethiopian food, but Minilik—named after the mythical son of King Solomon and the Queen of Sheba—is a local favourite run by an Icelandic-Ethiopian family. This unassuming cabin offers reasonably priced food and a wide selection of veggie options. Make sure to order the ceremonial coffee—the Ethiopian coffee beans are roasted in front of you, involving all your senses in the ritual even before you take your first sip. Bonus: It’s only 1.5 hours away from Reykjavík. H2

REYNISDRANGA

K

H VA L N E S

GRÍMSVÖTN F26

1

Þórisvatn

F229

9

VESTRAHORN

Höfn í Hornafirði

F985

1

SUÐURSVEIT

F208

Veiðivötn

1

Langisjór

2

ER

KU

N Ú P S S TA Ð U R

Ð

AM

1

BR

EI

SKEIÐARÁRSANDUR

F206 F208

JÖKULSÁRLÓN

AN

H VA N N A DA L S H N J Ú K U R

RS

S K A F TA F E L L

F206

D

U

R

LAKAGÍGAR

3

Kirkjubæjarklaustur INGÓLFSHÖFÐI

210

F232

208

ELDHRAUN

1 Take even just a cursory glance at #Iceland and you’ll instantly find your feed inundated with photos of South Iceland. Home to superstar spots such as Seljalandsfoss, Reynisfjara and Geysir, there’s a reason why The South continues to attract huge numbers of tourists year on year. But venture off the beaten path and you’ll find hidden gems galore, from tiny natural hot springs and tech museums to secret waterfalls and greenhouses heaving with tomato vines. It’s a region ripe for curiosity and exploration, so forget about influencers and hashtags and open yourself up to all the rare wonders South Iceland has to offer.

Skaftá K AT L A

209

204

MÝRDALSSANDUR

1

4

5

NISDRANGAR

K

L

M

N

O

P

Q

R

S

USEFUL INFO

By domestic airline:

Our articles, info and guides for South Iceland

Vestmannaeyjar (VEY) Flights from Reykjavík.

Main airline operator: www.eagleair.is Tel: +354 481 3300

Tourist Information:

South Iceland Tourist Information

Sunnumörk 2, Hveragerði www.south.is tourinfo@hveragerdi.is Tel: +354 483-4601

Emergency services

Tel: 112 (national helpline) Tour: Bathe: Ziplining In Vík Hrunalaug Weather report

Vík’s adrenaline-boosting zipline takes you across the Grafargil canyon.

After a five minute drive and a short hike led by an expert, you’ll arrive at the launch platform. There are three different jumps to get your heart pumping as you fly over various canyons and the Hundafoss waterfall. K5

en.vedur.is

Flúðir Recorded info: +354 902 0600 Info: south.is

Hrunalaug is a solid bet for anyone looking for that classic Icelandic Hot Pool Experience™. Located just off Highway 345, it’s a little stone enclave with a small collection of consistently hot hot pools. Despite only being a stone’s throw from the Golden Circle, it feels a world away H2

Browse our recommended tours at

gotravel.is

SAFETY NOTE The summer “high season” ends on September 1st. Please check vedur.is/en for weather and road.is for driving conditions in the late summer. Some roads close completely when weather is poor. Additional travel alerts can be found at safetravel.is.

OPENING HOURS Opening hours may vary outside of the summer season, so be sure to check ahead.

ALERT!

When you see this red badge, this route, hike or attraction is totally inaccessible for large parts of the winter (often roughly considered to be November-April). Don’t travel without checking for info via road.is and checking in with local tourist information services.

U/

6

HOW TO GET THERE

Grapevine on the South:

gpv.is/south

Zipline Iceland Info: zipline.is

T

Höfn (HFN) Flights from Reykjavík.

Main airline operator: www.eagleair.is Tel: +354 478 1250

Smaller airports

Flightseeing.is operates charter flights between Bakki and the Westman Islands, a 10-minute jaunt.

Ferry to Westman Islands: Herjólfur leaves from Bakkahöfn Schedule & Info: www.herjolfur.is

By car:

Road conditions www.road.is Tel: 1777 (Summer hours: 08:00-16:00 / Winter: 06:30-22:00)

By bus:

National Bus Network www.bus.is Tel: +354 540 2700

LOCAL INFO

A yellow badge means that an establishment’s opening hours might be sporadic; that a tour company may offer seasonal alternatives; or that hiking routes and nature sites may be closed due to adverse conditions. Check in advance for info from the locals who know.

The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

JÖKULHEIMAR

10 The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

From Reykjavík: 66 kilometres

How to get there: Highway 60

An Underwater Cathedral of Ice, Rock and Light Slipping into the hidden glacial waters of Davíðsgjá Words: John Pearson Photos: Clarence Voon & Art Bicnick

As the frigid water swirls around and envelopes you, it‘s not unusual to experience a sharp involuntary intake of breath. And as you slip below the surface the peace you crave washes over you, delivering you from the turbulent world above.

Of course, you‘re breathing life-supporting air from a tank and you‘re snugly squeezed into special clothing to keep most of you warm and dry underwater (well, warm-ish and dry-ish). It‘s all designed to allow the serenity of the underwater world

Tour provided by: dive.is Car provided by: gocarrental.is

to wash over you in safety and comfort.

Welcome to the wonderful world of cold-water scuba diving.

The liquid glacier Þingvellir National Park has a crisp chill to it on the February morning that we arrive. The visitor centre is closed, its empty car park a reminder that Iceland has achieved yet another day of tourist-free status. However the park and its lake—Þingvallavatn—never close. And today we have come to slip beneath the surface of the lake, seeking a different kind of Covid isolation.

Langjökull, the glacier some 50km to the northeast, provides most of the water for Þingvallavatn. Ice melts and the run-off water spends years seeping through subterranean lava fields towards the lake, but this process makes it no warmer. Þingvallavatn remains a reliably chilly 3°C year-round.

At the north end of the lake lies Sil-

South fra, the world-famous site beloved of divers and snorkelers who come for its magnificent underwater fissure—a crack in the crust of the earth. But as beautiful as Silfra is, our mission today is to investigate her darker, more mysterious sibling, Davíðsgjá—a dive site hidden five kilometres away, on Þingvallavatn’s eastern shore.

We meet our dive guide Clarence and after a brief run through of what we are about to do, we get into our gear. Once wrapped in suits to keep us warm and dry and strapped into the scuba gear that allows us to breathe underwater, we slide off the rocky bank and into the lake. After that involuntary sharp intake of breath—the suits don‘t cover your head or your hands—we descend into the cold alone. There is not another diver in sight.

A crack in the Earth The landscape underwater is as

Ölve rk

“Huge angular boulders loom on either side of us, placed there by millennia of seismic sculpting to form a channel. ” of the ice so that they can escape upwards into the air; quite the opposite to us.

Eventually with our air supplies getting low—and our core body temperatures to match—we emerge reluctantly from our watery realm of ice, rock and light, and get stuck into the flask of hot chocolate thoughtfully provided by Clarence.

When Þingvellir‘s visitor centre is open again and the crowds have re-

turned to Silfra, remember Davíðsgjá tucked away further around the lake.

If it’s post-Covid isolation you’re looking for, we may have found you the perfect spot.

11

as is the sense of peace and solitude.

The only evidence of life that Clarence and I see is each other. The only thing to break the silence is our breathing through the scuba equipment. And the only communications to distract us from our thoughts are the occasional hand signals that divers flash to check in with each other.

As we move slowly through our private aquatic canyon, we eventually reach the edge of the ice above.

The sunlight hits it and filters through, causing flashes and sparkles that catch a diver’s eye and tempt them further under the thick, solid surface.

As we shallow up to take a closer look, our exhaled bubbles congregate under the ice, forming little trapped quicksilver pools that flow and dance.

They’re attempting to find the edge

The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

breath-taking as the temperature shock. As we drop into the clearest water imaginable—no hint of cloudiness to reduce the visibility—huge angular boulders loom on either side of us, placed there by millennia of seismic sculpting to form a channel.

Above the lake, the absence of wind creates a mirror-like surface, the underside of which reflects our watery chasm to make it appear twice as tall.

The low, wintery afternoon sun glances on the lake, reluctantly illuminating the greys and blues of our rock and water cathedral.

The fissure is only six metres deep at this point; it drops to 21 metres further south, in parts inaccessible today due to the icy surface. But even in this relatively shallow water, the feeling of expansive space is striking,

Where you find the real local beer and gourmet pizzas

PIZZA & BREWERY HVERAGERÐI - ICELAND

Brewery tours / Craft beer / Pizzeria / Great local experience Breiðamörk 2 / 810 Hveragerði / tel. 483-3030 / olverk.is

www.ba bylon.is

12

BEST OF ICELAND 2022

Best Meal

Best Museum

The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

South

Turf houses and lava museums Best Accomodation Slippurinn Strandvegur 76, Vestmannaeyjar

Eldheimar Vestmannaeyjar

The undisputed heavyweight of South Iceland restaurants is the exquisite family-run Slippurinn eatery. Located on the wild and picturesque Westman Islands, it alone is worth the trip. Head chef Gísli Matthías Auðunsson is a famed New Nordic innovator whose team lovingly harvests wild ingredients, and works with local farmers and suppliers—you can be certain that everything on your plate has been thoroughly considered. The result? A stunningly fresh and vibrant taste of Iceland that you’ll never forget. H5

Well-conceived, entertaining and informative, this modern museum focuses on the Westman Islands’ eruption of 1973.

Indeed, it’s built around two houses that were half-buried in molten lava. Interactive displays show the spread of lava over the island, bringing to life a dramatic passage of history via newsreel footage, an alarming rumbling passageway, and stories from locals who experienced the eruption firsthand. Peering into the recovered houses, frozen in time in 1970’s decor and still full of their inhabitant’s trinkets, brings the full impact of the volcano into sharp focus. H5

Runner Up

Runner Up

Torfhús Retreat Dalsholt, Selfoss

Step onto the black volcanic rock paving Torfhús Retreat and you’re immediately wrapped in a blanket of luxury, history and an intensely personal oneness with nature. It’s no surprise, then, to learn that each aspect of the retreat, down to the dutifully crafted stonework adorning each turf-topped home, was meticulously thought out and crafted—and it’s this attention to detail that makes Torfhús such a star. If you’re looking to experience authentic Icelandic style combined with modern eco-luxury and immense heart, there’s no better place to rest your head. Map square: H1 Runner Up

Budget Option

Tryggvaskáli Tryggvatorg, Selfoss

LAVA Centre Austurvegur 14, 860 Hvolsvöllur

Located in a historic former hotel building on the banks of the gushing Ölfusá river, Tryggvaskáli is a charming restaurant that uses local ingredients to eye-popping effect. The colourful, playful dishes will wake up your tastebuds and the warm environment and friendly service are perfect. F2

The LAVA Centre boasts engaging interactive displays and ingenious visualisations of Iceland’s volatile geography. A memorable highlight is a huge model of the glowing tectonic rift below the country, which really puts things in perspective. It’s truly *fire emoji*. H4

Budget Option

Skálakot Hvolsvöllur

Þakgil Campsite Þakgil

Freysnes Across from Hótel Skaftafell

Caves Of Hella Hella

The Grapevine once called Skálakot “an Icelandic version of the Twin Peaks Great Northern Lodge” so it’s no wonder that the hotel is once again on our list of the best Southern accommodation. Every detail of the rooms is perfect, from the tasteful patterned wallpaper to the modernist kettles, cloud-like beds and deep bathtubs. I5

Any campground in Iceland is bound to be stunning, but Þakgil is a particular standout. Located just 20 kilometres from Vík in a beautiful valley, the site offers cottages, campsites and basic amenities in a truly breathtaking locale. It’s also the basecamp for the Þakgil hike, which you can read about on the next page. K5

Directly across from Hótel Skaftafell is an unassuming gas station, grocery store and restaurant. Don’t be put off by its exterior; head to the buffet for a heaping plate of lamb, potatoes and salad that’ll rival the best restaurants in Reykjavík. They also offer a fish option, hamburgers, and fantastic French fries. O2

Just an hour drive from Reykjavík, the caves of Hella are a wonder to behold. Nobody knows for sure how old they are, but many historians date them back to the early/mid-9th century, when monks carved them out to use for worship. Now, after centuries, they are open to the public, with more currently being restored. G3

Best Road Trip

Best Hike

The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

South

There ain’t nothing like it!

Must-See Spot The South Coast Route 1

Fimmvörðuháls Skógar-Þórsmörk

Iceland’s south coast is the road trip dreams are made of, and there are countless things to experience and discover along the way. Waterfalls, lava fields, active volcanos, black beaches, glacier tongues, flood plains, natural bathing spots, wildlife, and all the local life of the lovely seaside villages… are just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to what Southern Iceland has to offer. Whether it’s your first time or your fiftieth, there’s always something new to discover. E2-S1

One of the more challenging day-hikes in Iceland, this 25km route is worth it for the diverse riches you’ll see along the way. The trail starts at the foot of Skógafoss, passing countless Highland waterfalls on the way to its 1,000m apex. You cross between the Eyjafjallajökull and Myrdalsjökull glaciers, passing the still-steaming site of the 2010 eruption. Finally, you’ll descend into the dreamy Þórsmörk valley, where you can camp, bathe, and catch a homeward bus. J5-4

Runners Up

Runners Up

Landmannalaugar Friðland að Fjallabaki, Highlands

Of all the deep nature of the South, the astounding Landmannalaugar is a true must-see. You could spend days hiking the trails, which wind around the geothermal area where hot steam pours from vividly coloured mountains. There are captivating lava fields, a bright green canyon, crater lakes, and lots more.

Only accessible in summer, buses arrive at the campsite daily; Don’t forget your swimming gear—there’s a brilliant geothermal bathing spot. Map square: J3 Runner Up

13

BEST OF ICELAND 2022

Runner Up

Jökulsárlón Vatnajökull National Park

Þórsmörk Þórsmörk, Highlands

Yeah, we know, you saw it in the Justin Bieber video—but there’s a reason this famous glacier lagoon has become a worldwide emblem of Iceland. There, glittering blue icebergs, calved by the Vatnajökull glacier, float around the frigid water. Take a boat trip—you won’t regret it—or simply sit and stare off into the blue. Q2

The Þórsmörk valley is surrounded by active volcanoes, glaciers, and the gnarled, ashen landscape they created. It’s a deeply immersive environment for camping and hiking amid a sprawling, stark and beautiful wilderness. Buses leave from Reykjavík daily in the summer or you could drive in a F-road safe vehicle. J4

Flúðir Flúðir region

Þakgil Sunnubraut 7, Vík

For an easy day trip, the Flúðir region is full of fun. Stop by the Kerið crater and Sólmheimar eco-village on the way there before lunch at the Friðheimar greenhouse café. Then, take a long soak at either the Secret Lagoon or Hrunalaug before grabbing a delicious dinner at Minilik Ethiopian restaurant. And for influencers, you’re just a stone’s throw away from Instagram’s famed Bubble Hotel. H2

The spectacular Þakgíl canyon lies a few kilometres inland from one of Iceland’s popular south coast tourist routes. Tackle the rocky trail and you’ll be rewarded with some amazing views across the black sand beaches of the coastline and a couple of caves to visit along the way. But even a walk around the canyon itself is quite amazing too, with massive moss-green walls reaching up to dizzying heights. K5

Friðland að Fjallabaki The Highlands

Laugavegur Landmannalagur to Þórsmörk

If you’re driving a 4x4 and it’s summertime, head to the one-off region of Friðland að Fjallabaki. It’s an unforgettable road trip into the Highlands where you’ll be treated to colourful cliffs and valleys and, of course, a host of lava and ash fields. J3

Stretching 54 km between Landmannalaugar and Þórsmörk valley, this trail is something of a rite of passage for Icelanders. One second you’re trudging through snow, the next you’re narrowly avoiding jets of steam and bubbling hot pools. J3-4

14

BEST OF ICELAND 2022

The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

Best Tour

Best Bathing Spot

Rib Safari Vestmannaeyjar

Laugarvatn Fontana Hverabraut 1, Laugarvatn

The Westman Islands is an intriguing archipelago, easily reachable from the mainland by ferry. However, only one island is inhabited; the others sit scattered around it, jutting up mysteriously from the fog and spray. A Rib Safari boat tour provides a closer look at some of the smaller islands, as well as offering a unique perspective on the coast of Heimaey, with its majestic puffin cliffs, echoing sea caves and dazzling rock formations. H5

Yes, you could say we are fan(tanas) of Laugarvatn Fontana. Located right on the Golden Circle—and on the shore of lake Laugarvatn—this fancy spa pool features several geothermal hot pools of varying temperature, and some fiercely hot steam rooms. There’s also a place where you can jump in the lake to cool off, if you’re a crazy person (or happen to be Finnish). And don’t worry—they have a geothermal bakery to top up your energy afterwards. G1

South

Don’t miss the Westman Islands Best Café

Runners Up

Skool Beans Klettsvegur, Vík

When you think of quality coffee, you probably don’t think of beans roasted in the back of an old American school bus. But Icelandic transplant Holly Keyser will prove you wrong with her delightful café Skool Beans. The bus-turned-coffee stand is a cosy place filled with the smell of quality joe (and some treats), along with a truly spectacular selection of tea for you Brits. And with a view of Vík’s jagged cliffs in the background, can you blame them? Holly also sells packets of coffee beans for you to enjoy at home—the perfect souvenir. K5 Runner Up

Runners Up

Glacier Hike Various locations and suppliers

Reykjadalur Hveragerði

You came to Iceland to see a glacier and the best way to get up close and personal with one is a guided ice hike. With an experienced glacier guide, a helmet and crampons provided, it’s safe to hike up a glacier tongue, taking in the deep blue hues and shining icefalls, and learning about glaciers’ features.

In the Reykjavík-adjacent town of Hveragerði you’ll find this famous route. It’s a gentle hike over a stunning mountain trail with a dreamy soak waiting for you at the end in the geothermal river that gushes down the Reykjadalur valley. Our recommendation?

Go early in the morning, or late at night.

It’s your best bet to beat the crowds. F2

The Highlands The Highlands… Duh

Secret Lagoon Hvammsvegur, Flúðir

There are many different trips available into the barren and beautiful Highlands, so you can choose whatever fits your schedule, from Jeep tours to hiking treks to helicopter rides. Amongst the most interesting spots is the mountain range Kerlingarfjöll, where you’ll find many hot springs and colourful minerals formed by geothermal activity.

While the “secret” of this popular outdoor bathing lagoon is out in recent times, there’s a reason the crowds keep coming.

First created in 1891 and kept as close as possible to its primal state, this naturally hot lagoon is a scenic wonder. There’s a mini geysir, and you can hear the bassy gurgling fumaroles. Can’t beat it. H2

Runner Up

Friðheimar Reykholt

Kaffi Krús Austurvegur 7, Selfoss

The wonderful Fríðheimar is a café experience like no other. Located inside a large tomato greenhouse, it’s a verdant haven where you can taste soups, pasta sauces and Bloody Marys that are as fresh as possible. There’s a bread buffet to fill up on, and basil plants on the table to garnish your delicious homegrown tomato soup. H1

A staple for the past decades, this is a cosy place that’s a great stop for a coffee or meal after a long day on the road. The wellthought-out menu has a great selection of meals, while the in-house bakers make sure to have some incredible varieties of cake every day. Seriously, these guys are the true Icelandic Cake Bosses. F2

Browse these tours and more at

gotravel.is

BEST OF ICELAND 2022

15

Best Shop

The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

South

Sweet Home Vík í Mýrdal...

Best Bar Joint Winners

Sveitabúðin Una Hvolsvöllur A spacious emporium packed with locally-made products, Una is probably Iceland’s best souvenir shop. You can pick up that authentic hand-knitted lopapeysa you’ve been dreaming of, and browse shelves and display cases teeming with interesting objects. Jewellery made from lava beads? Check. Rhubarb-infused salt from the Westfjords? Check. And don’t think twice—yes, you will be able to squeeze that cosy and pristine sheepskin rug into your case. Go for it. We support you. H4 Newcomer

Smiðjan Brewery Vík

Smiðjan is a welcoming brewpub with many beers on tap and an impressively extensive craft-beer bottle menu. The interior is crisp, but with a grungy edge, and you can see the brewing facilities through a glass wall at the back. They also have a solid bar food menu and are open till midnight. Don’t miss the wings— they’re a standout and the perfect end to a day spent exploring the South. K5 Gróðurhúsið Austurmörk 6, Hveragerði Gróðurhúsið—Hveragerði’s new hotel/restaurant/shopping centre—offers some of the best selections of Icelandic products in the country. From design giant Epal to suit specialists Herrafataverzlun Kormáks og Skjaldar, this place shows you can find luxury outside of the capital. F2 Runner Up

Ölverk Brewery Breiðamörk 2, 810 Hveragerði

Whether you’re dropping by for a quick pint of their house-brewed beer—made just metres from the tap—or you’re a beer nerd who wants the full tour of their steam-powered facilities, Ölverk is a fantastic haunt and a total boon for Hveragerði. The pizzas are great, so it’s an ideal lunch or dinner stop, too. Any designated driver has our respect—and pity. F2 Runner Up

Brothers Brewery Vestmannaeyjar Started by a couple of friends and their brothers in 2012, this small brewery pumps out a selection of great small-batch beers.

It’s a friendly, genial experience and they offer a tour for a great price. Afterwards, of course, you get to taste their wares. H5

Selfoss Centre Selfoss Selfoss just gets bigger year after year— it’s one of the fastest growing cities in the country. And with this influx of locals has come a new bustling historical downtown centre with restaurants, shops and more. Stop by for local art, fresh flowers, eco-friendly design, and, well, anything else you can imagine! F2

s ho

ev i p a r g p.

ne.is

Don't Hesitate!

Act Now!

16

BEST OF ICELAND 2022

Must-See Spot

Best Hike

The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

Reykjanes a.k.a. “Smokey Nose.” Promise!

Best Accommodation

Best Meal

The Retreat Hotel The Blue Lagoon

MOSS The Blue Lagoon

The Blue Lagoon is an Icelandic institution, but in recent years, they upped the game with the development of their luxury Retreat hotel, which also contains the Michelin-rated Moss restaurant. To call this place beautiful would be an understatement, it’s a stunning piece of design that is worth a trip in itself, with a selection of calming rooms of all sizes. Had a lottery win? Book the suite, which comes with a private “lava cove” lagoon. Map square: C3

Welcome to luxury. Moss—the Blue Lagoon’s Michelin Guide recommended eatery—is a destination spot for Icelandic foodies, and is worth the drive out for its take on upscale New Nordic fare. The restaurant relies on fresh, local ingredients and turns old-school Icelandic recipes into surprising delicacies. We definitely see a proper Star in its future and would also like to give a notable shout out to their stupendous wine selection. C3

Runners Up

Fagradalsfjall Grindavík

Þorbjörn Canyon Grindavík

The volcano in Fagradalsfjall was possibly one of the most beautiful natural displays in the world in the past year. The volcano spewed fire and lava for months, before finally petering out in the autumn (or so we think… keep an eye on the Met Office). But the young lava fields are no less spectacular and are still steaming, making a perfect backdrop for a crazy photo. Or just remind yourself that we are completely insignificant in the face of the natural world. C3

This 243m mountain is located between the Blue Lagoon and Grindavík. Despite the easy ascent, it offers impressive views of the surrounding lava fields, ocean, hills, and, of course, the Blue Lagoon. A narrow cleft scars its peak; you have to squeeze between the tall walls to descend the other side. Thrilling! The beautiful descent leads you through a small forest and to other paths, which you can wander on. An easy way to experience Reykjanes. C3

Runners Up

Runners Up

Runners Up

Hótel Berg Bakkavegur 17, Keflavík

Salthúsið Stamphólsvegur, Grindavík

This smart, modern hotel is located on the hill behind Keflavík harbour. While the town itself is not known for its beauty, this spot is as tranquil as you could wish for, with comfortable bedrooms, a relaxed sitting area, and a rooftop pool from which you can watch the sun sink into the sea.

Ah, that’s nice. C2

Grindavík’s “House of baccalao,” Salthúsið, is a spacious, wood-panelled restaurant that takes humble salted cod and places it front and centre on the menu.

With a down-to-earth atmosphere and a menu that prides itself on Icelandic recipes and ingredients—especially, of course, fresh local seafood. C3

Reykjanesviti & Gunnuhver Reykjanesbær, Route 425

Lambafellsgjá Eldborg

Less quaint but more powerful, the allegedly haunted Gunnuhver hot spot sends a torrent of steam jetting into the sky. Nearby, you’ll get a chance to straddle the tectonic divide. The Reykjanesviti lighthouse area has a Great Auk sculpture looking out to sea, marking the spot where the last one was reportedly hunted. B3

The opening to Lambafellsgjá is at ground level—the same as the rest of the endless lava fields shaping the scenery. But once in the canyon, the pure height of the lava rock walls dwarfs you into breathlessness. Once you’ve found the way in, jaw dropping cliffs rising above you, framing a narrow path through the hazy gorge. C2

Budget Option

Lighthouse Inn Garður

Röstin Restaurant Garður

Seltún Highway 42

Keilir Reykjanesbær, Route 41

As far as location goes, the Lighthouse Inn is winning. Perched right on the toe of Reykjanes, it’s a clean, warm and welcoming hostel that’s a stone’s throw from Garður’s twin lighthouses. On a clear day, you can see all the way to Snæfellsnes. B2

What a view! Look out at the ocean as you eat from this charming locale, which is the place to be on a beautiful day. Röstin offers basic fare, with the fish soup and fish & chips being particularly delicious. If you’re lucky, you might get some whale spotting for free. B2 B

Reykjanes is one of the youngest areas of Iceland and a hotbed of geothermal activity. Enter Seltún, a collection of bubbling hot springs, boiling mud and steaming sulphur vents. The surrounding land is a full rainbow spectrum of colours, from ironrich reds to surreal blues and greys. D2

If you want to climb an impressive mountain and have one of the greatest views of all time over the Reykjanes peninsula, you want to visit Keilir. The mountain looks like a picture-perfect volcano from a storybook and from the top you get a view over the surrounding lava fields. C2

Best Tour

Best Café

17

Best Museum

The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

Best Bathing Spot

The Blue Lagoon Retreat Lagoon Norðurljósavegur 9, Grindavík

Viking World Víkingabraut 1, Njarðvík

Inside The Volcano Þríhnúkagígur Volcano

Bryggjan Café Miðgarður 2, Grindavík

As if the Blue Lagoon wasn’t luxurious enough, there’s also the Blue Lagoon Retreat Spa—a more private version of the popular attraction. Mineral pools are meant to be savoured, so experiencing the rich silica waters of the Blue Lagoon away from the crowds is an unparalleled experience. It’s a splurge, yes, but if you’re looking for a high-end swimming experience, this is the way to go. Get a spa treatment for the ultimate day out. Map square: C3

There are a lot of Viking-themed stops around Iceland, but nowhere else will you find a full longboat replica. Viking World in Njarðvík allows you to set foot on the Íslendingur, a longboat built in 1996 and modelled after the famous Gokstad vessel—a close-to-complete Viking ship that was excavated in Norway way back in 1882. You’ll also find a Smithsonian-produced exhibition spanning the key events of the whole Viking saga. C2

Þríhnúkagígur is a geological oddity. After the volcano erupted, the magma simply disappeared as though someone had pulled out the plug, leaving a uniquely preserved cavity, ready to be explored by you.

This tour takes you down into the dormant volcano, allowing you to roam the cavern’s rock-strewn paths, marvel at the shadowy lava tubes and jewel-toned mineral deposits daubed on the walls. E2

This Grindavík café (that has signs all over the city so you can’t possibly miss it) serves up potentially the best lobster soup in the country—no hyperbole—that’s so flavourful one bite will leave you spinning. By the way, you Icelanders are in for a treat because this place is the brainchild of none other than the legendary TV chef Siggi Hall.

Bryggjan is a place with heart and some serious local-core. Their lamb soup ain’t nothing to scoff at either. C3

Runners Up

Runners Up

Runners Up

Runners Up

The Blue Lagoon Norðurljósavegur 9, Grindavík

Museum of Rock ‘n’ Roll Hjallavegur 2, Keflavík

ATV Adventure Grindavík

Hjá Höllu Víkurbraut 62, Grindavík

Iceland’s iconic geothermal lagoon is extremely popular—and deservedly so. Sliding into the milky water in the midst of a gnarly lunar landscape is an experience like no other. The water coats your skin in silica; slather on a mineral mask too for an extra-rejuvenating spa experience. C3

Icelandic music aficionados can have an informative and fun time at “Rokksafn”.

The museum attempts to trace the history of Icelandic music, from the 1800s to the present day, via memorabilia, interactive exhibits, and, of course, displays about Iceland’s biggest musical exports. C2

Straddling a roaring ATV and zooming into the wilderness might not be the most tranquil method, but it quickly gets you into the thick of nature. Reach impressive spots faster than by hiking, and crawl over black sand beaches road-trippers can only gaze at longingly through the windscreen. C3

Hjá Höllu really is a no-brainer when it comes to good food. Seasonal menu?

Check. Locally sourced ingredients? Double check. Rip-roaringly delicious? Triple check. This unassuming restaurant is run with a great deal of care and love that translates straight to the plate. C3

Grindavík Pool Austurvegi 1, Grindavík

Suðurnes Science & Learning Centre Garðvegi 1, Sandgerði

Reykjanes Ring Tour Various tour providers

Kaffi Duus Duusgata 10, Keflavík

There are many Reykjanes tours on offer that will reveal the peninsula’s sights and secrets in an easy day-trip. Whether it’s a bargain bus ride around the basics, or a tailored private tour that goes further afield, the decision is yours—and you’ll have fun either way.

Kaffi Duus in Keflavík is a great two-in-one: not only can you have a hearty piece of fish looking out over the water, but you can pop into the adjoined Duus Museum. With a display about the town’s seafaring history, it has plenty of varied and interesting exhibits. C2

With naturally heated geothermal water swirling through the outdoor pool, and two hot pots, one of which has a jet massage, you’ll come away refreshed at the Grindavík Pool—especially if you dare for a plunge in the cold pot on the way out. Isn’t that invigorating? C3

For anyone interested in wildlife and natural sciences, the Suðurnes Science and Learning Centre could prove to be a mecca.

As well as being an active research institute, they host several exhibitions and a taxidermied specimen collection. B2

18

USEFUL INFO

The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

Grapevine on the West:

gpv.is/west

Our articles, info and guides for West Iceland and the Westfjords Tourist Information:

West Iceland Marketing Office www.west.is info@westiceland.is Tel: +354 462 3300

Tour: Langjökull Ice Tunnel

Museum: Bjarnarhöfn

Swim: Lýsuhólslaug

Langjökull Bjarnarhöfn, Stykkishólmur Info: intotheglacier.is Tel: +354 438 1581

Near Búðir, Snæfellsbær Tel: +354 433 9917

The Langjökull Ice Tunnel is the perfect jaunt if you’re traveling with kids, and particularly those that are partial to a certain song about the cold not bothering you anyway. While adults will be amazed by standing on top of the vast Langjökull glacier, the tykes could easily amuse themselves for hours moseying around the ice tunnel, which is complete with multiple chambers and a chapel. Map square: H13

It’s easy being green. So stop by Lýsuhólslaug, a.k.a. the Green Lagoon, to become acquainted with your new favourite colour. Organic and chemical free, the pool is—as its name implies—green, caused by algae naturally found in the water called Chlorella. Chlorella is full of silica and iron, so if you suffer from things like psoriasis, eczema, and acne, the Green Lagoon might become your magic pill. C12

Iceland is known for its bizarrely specific museums, but Bjarnarhöfn’s Shark Museum is easily one of the most charming. The space is packed to the brim with shark hunting boats, shark info sheets, shark skeletons, shark stomach contents, and stuffed sharks.

If that’s not enough, just up the hill is a drafty shack where shark meat hangs down right in front of your eyes. (Leave your vegan friends at home for this one.) C11

Emergency services

Tel: 112 (national helpline)

Weather report

en.vedur.is Recorded info: +354 902 0600

HOW TO GET THERE By car:

Road conditions www.road.is Tel: 1777 (Summer hours: 08:00-16:00 / Winter: 06:30-22:00)

By ferry:

From Stykkishólmur Ferry to Flatey and Brjánslækur Schedule & Info: www.seatours.is

By bus:

National Bus Network www.bus.is Tel: +354 540 2700

SAFETY NOTE

Eat: Geirabakarí Kaffihús

Visit: Víðgelmir—The Cave

Church: Hellnarkirkja

Þjóðvegur, Borgarnes Tel: +354 437 1920

Deildartunguhver, Snæfellsnes Info: thecave.is

Hellnar, Snæfellsnes Info: west.is

Borgarnes is oft used by many as but a gas station stop on the journey North, but if you need a road trip pick-meup, there’s none better than a pastry from the town’s famed Geirabakari.

Despite its humble interior, many (including some Grapevine employees) claim they’ve got the best wares in the country. Also, they don’t charge extra for their fantastic views. (Bonus fact: Geirabakarí served as the set for “Papa John’s” in ‘The Secret Life Of Walter Mitty’.) E13

Deep in the erie landscape of Borgarfjörður lies a cave named Víðgelmir, which roughly translates as “worm,” but a better translation might be “serpent.” It’s over 1.5km long and, in places, over 15m high. The cave is gated to preserve the features inside, so if you want to experience it, you’ll have to take a tour from the nearby visitor centre. There, listen to your expert guide, who can fill you in on the formation of the cave and its many snakey geological features. G12

With a year-round population of fewer than ten people, it’s difficult to say actually how many people use Hellnar’s church. It’s a somewhat spooky building—the type of smalltown church you usually see in horror movies. That said, the strangeness of it only adds to its beauty. Inside, you’ll be met by a bright blue ceiling and chandelier. Make sure to take a stroll around the lumpy cemetery before you sit in the bright red pews. B12

The summer “high season” in Iceland ends on September 1st.

Please check vedur.is/en for weather and road.is for driving conditions in the late summer.

Some roads close completely when weather is poor. Additional travel alerts can be found at safetravel.is.

OPENING HOURS Opening hours may vary outside of the summer season, so be sure to check ahead.

Browse Grapevine recommended tours from this region at

gotravel.is

19

C

B

D

E

F

G

H

J/

I

1

BEST OF ICELAND:

The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

A

2

West

Tucked between bustling Reykjavík and the desolate Westfjords, the West of Iceland is a relatively unexplored playground for the curious traveller. Don’t let the fact that fewer visitors venture here put you off: if you take the time to escape the Golden Circle or South Coast crowds, you’ll find West Iceland to be full of absolute gems. From the frigid expanse of Langjökull to the otherworldly beacon that is Snæfellsjökull, from the lush serenity of Hvalfjörður to the stark and shapeshifting lava formations of the Snæfellsnes peninsula, from the peaks of mountains to the depths of the lava caves, it’s a region rich in culture, history and excitement.

Mini-Iceland in Iceland?

Can’t get more convienent than that!

3

4

HORNBJARG A Ð A LV Í K

5

HORNSTRANDIR

HESTEYRI JÖKULFIRÐIR

DRANGASKÖRÐ

Hnífsdalur

65

Flateyri

Súðavík

Þingeyri

60

SELÁRDALUR HRAFNSEYRI

F

T

60

O

D

R

GJÖGUR

S

Djúpavík

B A L A FJ Ö L L

B R E I ÐAV Í K

612

HNJÓTUR

61 711

60

Varmahlíð

S K Á L E YJ A R

1 Hvammstangi

60

F756

35

Laugarbakki

1 FE

10

59 Borðeyri LL

SS

TR

ÖN

Stykkishólmur

F752

590

D

Búðardalur

F578

F734

35

A R N A R V AT N S H E I Ð I

576

Rif

LAU

55

Grundarfjörður

54

56

L J Ó S U FJ Ö L L

1

60

54 574

D J Ú PA LÓ N S S .

11

54

54

Ólafsvík

1

752

Flatey

Hellissandur

9

751

1

Reykhólar

S V E F N E YJ A R

H Ó L A R Í H J A LTA D A L

1

HVÍTSERKUR

V A Ð A L FJ Ö L L

Brjánslækur

8

Blönduós

645

62

75

DRANGSNES

60 FLÓKALUNDUR

612

744

Sauðárkrókur

Hólmavík

BJARKALUNDUR

L ÁT R A B J A R G

Skagaströnd

61 608

Tálknafjörður 63

76

82

SVA R FA ÐA R DA

643

E Patreksfjörður

Ólafs

Hofsós

W

Bíldudalur

7

76

745

745

82

643

S

KETILDALUR

76

TRÉKYLLISVÍK

635

J

76

N O R Ð U R FJ Ö R Ð U R

61

61

Siglufjörður

KROSSNES

Æðey

Ísafjörður

624

60

6

SNÆFELLSSTRÖND

Bolungarvík Suðureyri

H V E R AV E L L I R

F578

Arnarstapi Hellnar

ELDBORG

LÓNDRANGAR

SURTSHELLIR

54

HÚSAFELL

Reykholt

518

54 HJÖRSEY

F347

Hvítárvatn

550

ÞJÓR

13

Borgarnes 52

KALDIDALUR

F508

1

Kjalarnes

Reykjavík

41

G LY M U R

48

36

Þingvallavatn

Mosfellsbær

36 N E S J AV E L L I R

HEIÐMÖRK

Hvítá

35

365

F26

GULLFOSS

GEYSIR ÚTHLÍÐ

ÞINGVELLIR

GLJÚFRASTEINN

Kópavogur Hafnarfjörður

F338

52

41

1

14

F338

UXAHRYGGIR

1

Akranes

Garður

35 KJÖLUR

HRAUNFOSSAR

1

12

37

Þórisvatn

Laugavatn 37

35

Laugarás

F26

Reykholt

Þjórsá

S K Á L H O LT

Flúðir

32

STÖNG

F208

Veiðiv

20 The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

From Reykjavík: 170 kilometres

How to get there: Highway 54

Car provided by: gocarrental.is

Ghosts On The Wind

in 1848 without the support of the spiritual fathers”).

The eerie beauty of Snæfellsnes Words: Andie Sophia Fontaine Photos: Art Bicnick Snæfellsnes is often touted as “Iceland in miniature,” and not for nothing—in a single day’s drive north from Reykjavík, you can experience heaths, beaches, lava fields, mountains and glaciers. It’s easy to forget, however, just how special this place is when you’re shouldering your way through throngs of tourists or desperately searching for a place to put down your tent that’s far enough away from your neighbours.

Which is what made our recent journey along the southern coast of Snæfellsnes so special. It was a weekend, on a beautiful sunny day, but there was hardly another soul to be seen apart from the people who actually live there. So my wife, Ada, and our trusty photographer, Art, and I were all able to absorb the eerie beauty of this region.

The spiritual fathers Our first stop was Búðir. Like many places in Iceland, especially on the southern coast of Snæfellsnes, this place was once a bustling fishing hub under both Icelandic and later Danish

control. Today, in lieu of fishing, there is the gorgeous Hótel Búðir, a church with a curious history, and many beautiful paths through the surrounding lava fields, some of which extended down to the sea.

The church, Búðarkirkja, although locked tight when we visited, is indeed worth a look. Painted a stark, jet black and adjacent to a graveyard that must look pretty scary in the light of the moon, the location of this church was determined in 1701 by literally firing an arrow into the air and seeing where it landed. Although it was decommissioned by the colonising Danes in 1816, a guy named Guðmundur fought to get it reinstated—albeit to no avail, and he never lived to see Búðarkirkja open its doors again. However, his wife, Steinunn, took up the cause, and the church was reinstated in 1847. Nonetheless, she had little financial help from the church authorities to complete the restoration, and today, the heavy metal ring on the front door is still inscribed “kirkjan er endurreist ár 1848 án styrks þeirra andlegu feðra” (“this church was resurrected

Half ogre, half man, all fun Our next stop was Arnarstapi, a quaint seaside village just west of Búðir. Here, you begin to see some of the mysticism associated with Snæfellsnes in general, as you can’t help but notice the imposing sculpture standing by the shore. This anthropomorphic pile of stones, sculpted by Ragnar Kjartansson, represents Bárður Snæfellsás.

Bárður is in many ways the spirit of Snæfellsnes. This character, reportedly half human and half ogre, has his very own saga, Bárðar saga Snæfellsáss, which recounts his adventures. His life events culminate in his wife being set adrift on an iceberg by his son, getting in a horrible fight with him, and then Bárður making the totally understandable decision to make his new home in the icecap atop Snæfellsjökull. From

West there, he became known to locals as the “guardian spirit” of Snæfell—an appellation he carries to this day, as he is described as such on the sculpture.

Today you’d be hard pressed to witness a fist fight between two halftrolls, but in lieu of that, Arnarstapi boasts a cute little tourist cottage village, and the surrounding area is something to behold. There are numerous hiking trails through the surrounding lava fields, and down at the shore there are some truly breathtaking cliffs, replete with basalt formations twisted into impossible spirals.

The nearby ravine of Rauðfeldsgjá is especially worth a look.

The café by the cliffs Just a bit farther west is Hellnar, probably the second-most metal place name in Iceland (after Dimmuborgir, of course). This is another former fishing and farming village that has since turned to tourism, as the many

“Snæfellsnes has been here long, long before we were born, and it will continue to be here.”

UNWIND AT KRAUMA

sit and stare at the waves (provided the sea birds don’t harass you). Just overtop, there are seemingly endless trails through moss-covered lava fields that you could spend all day exploring.

For the truly adventurous, farther east across an extensive meadow stands a statue of the Virgin Mary over a natural pool. An inscription at the foot of the statue informs the visitor that the Virgin Mary appeared on this spot in the

year 1230, Bishop Guðmundur Arason asked her to bless the water at this spot, and the statue was put in place in 1989.

Snæfellsnes stays Soon it was time to return home.

The day had been brilliantly sunny, though cold, and I was pleased to have shown my wife a little bit of one of my favourite regions of Iceland. As we headed east by car, I thought about other places in Snæfellsnes I wanted to show her—Ólafsvík, Grundarfjörður, Stykkishólmur, the mountain passes, beaches and lava fields. It made me feel impatient, in a hurry to bring her back to this magical region again.

But as we took the turnoff that connects again to Route 1, dropping almost immediately into Borgarnes, I recalled a bit of advice I heard years ago: Iceland isn’t going anywhere.

Snæfellsnes has been here long, long before we were born, and it will continue to be here for centuries or millennia to come. Likewise, neither my wife nor I are leaving Iceland any time soon.

Snæfellsnes is always waiting for you to pay a visit and it is always happy to see you again.

Krauma Nature Baths

Bar & Restaurant

Snug in the western village of Reykholt lies Europe's largest and most active hot spring, Deildartunguhver. Supplying water to all six of our nature baths, this geothermal powerhouse is the staple of our retreat and right in our backyard. Soak in our mineral rich waters this holiday season and witness the tranquility of Krauma

Icelandic ingredients are the foundation of our culinary craft at Krauma Restaurant & Bar and all our food is locally sourced from farms and greenhouses that harness energy from the hot spring Deildartunguhver making your dining experience at Krauma purely Icelandic.

KRAUMA NATURE BATHS @kraumageothermal kraumageothermal

+354 5556066 // krauma.is Deildartunghver, 320 Reykholt

21

believe when you take in its beauty, which, on a clear day, you can see all the way from Reykjavík.

I was very keen on showing my wife the little café tucked into a steep hill overlooking the sea but, as was unfortunately expected, it was closed.

Not to worry, though: just a stone’s throw away is a basalt cave that has been tunneled through by water and wind, and it is a truly magical place to

The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

newly-built cabins attest. Looming overhead just north of the location, is the distinct snow-covered peak of Snæfellsjökull.

It is often pointed out that this mountain marked the entrance to the center of the earth in the eponymous Jules Verne novel, but it is also considered in New Age circles to be one of the planet’s “power centres,” imbued with potent energy. This is certainly easy to

22

BEST OF ICELAND 2022

Best Restaurant

Best Café

The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

West

Go West (NOT CLICKBAIT) Best Accommodation Sjávarpakkhúsið Hafnargata 2, Stykksihólmur

Gilbakki Kaffihús Gilbakki, Hellissandur

Separating the Westfjords and Snæfellsnes sits Breiðafjörður, a picturesque bay teeming with life. Once fish-packing house-now-restaurant Sjávarpakkhúsið makes excellent use of this strategic position. The restaurant works closely with local purveyors to put forth only the best of the bay—delicious bowls of blue mussels, a classic, to fresh shucked scallops and a variety of seafood. We recommend making reservations as demand is high. D11

Don’t pass through Hellissandur without dropping in on your grandma. Okay, so maybe not your actual grandma—but we imagine she’d be right at home in this comfortable café. If you’re looking for a cosy piece of cake, look no further. For the full experience, stop there on a sunny day, so you can sip your coffee while enjoying the view of the glacier, framed by antique lace curtains. How’s that for an aesthetic? B12

Runner Up

Runners Up

Hótel Búðir Búðir, Snæfellsnes

If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. Hotel Búðir is our favourite westerly bolthole once more. Whether you use it as a base to explore the picturesque surroundings, with views of the majestic Snæfellsjökull one way and the sea the other, or plant yourself in the handsomely appointed lounge taking in the sights through Búðir’s antique telescope, you can’t go wrong with this Icelandic institution.

Protip: visit during the winter for the chance to see jaw-dropping Northern Lights. Map square: B12 Runner Up

Budget Option

Hótel Húsafell Stórarjóður, Húsafell

Freezer Hostel Hafnargata 16, Rif

Another classy standout in the West, Hótel Húsafell is bound to impress. Along with a beautiful building, breathtaking scenery, and stylish interior, there’s also a swimming pool and an excellent restaurant and bar serving up toothsome tasting menus and dangerously good cocktails. Make sure to take advantage of the hot pots. G13

Need an affordable place to stay in Hellissandur? Freezer Hostel. Looking for some local performance art? Freezer Hostel.

What about some exciting street art? You guessed it: Freezer Hostel. Located on the cusp of the Snæfellsjökull National Park, it’s a lively crash pad with a fun social calendar throughout the summer. B11

Viðvik Viðvík, Hellissandur

Fjöruhúsið Hellnar, Snæfellsnes

Would you be surprised if we told you that just outside of Hellissandur is a warm, cosy cabin that elevates food in the countryside to a detour worth taking experience?

Reminiscent of the capital’s cooking, Viðvik dishes delectable sushi, heartwarming bowls of fish soup and perfectly cooked seafood, that are both a delight to your sight as well as palate. Afterwards, take a walk and see the spectacular street art of this small town. A12

When the sun is out and the clouds are hiding, there is no better view in the country than from the patio of this iconic seaside spot. Facing the Baðstofa rock formation and soundtracked by the calls of nesting birds and the swell of the tide, Fjöruhúsið is a tiny old-timey café that serves up great coffee, cakes, waffles, and seafood soup.

Cuddle up with a blanket and treat on the terrace and watch the sunset. Now, aren’t you relaxed? B12

Bjargarsteinn Mathús Sólvellir 15, Grundarfjörður

Café Kaja Stillholt 23, Akranes

Bjargarsteinn is a small town eatery in Grundarfjörður that looks out toward photogenic Kirkjufell, and it’s worth finding.

The menu is a mix of traditional foods (think dried shark skewers, fish soup, skyr) and bold twists. C12

The only certified organic cafe on the island, Kaja is a treasure. With fish soup, falafel salad, avocado toast, cakes, coffee and more on the menu, it’s all you could ask for in the Western outpost of Akranes.

Plus, there’s an organic market. E14

Best Tour

Best Road Trip

The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

West Go West, young man Best Hike Viking Sushi Stykkishólmur, seatours.is

Snæfellsnes Snæfellsnes

Viking Sushi gives you a two for one deal: a gorgeous cruise among the Breiðafjörður bay and a taste of the freshest seafood around. Right in front of your very eyes, scallops, clams, and sea urchins are plucked from the seafloor and served to you on a giant trough on the bow of the boat. It’s a unique experience your brain won’t soon forget, and a delicious culinary one your tongue won’t either. D11

Forget the Golden Circle, Snæfellsnes is where it’s at. Oft referred to as “Iceland in miniature,” this peninsula has it all: mesmerizing lava formations, bird cliffs, seals, picturesque old churches, twisted remnants of a shipwreck, a shark museum, street art—and the cherry on top is Snæfellsjökull glacier. You can do it on a day trip from Reykjavík, but a more leisurely drive is preferable. A12-D11

Runners Up

Runners Up

Glymur

Botnsdalur valley, Hvalfjörður If you want a hike to brag about, try Glymur. Iceland’s second-tallest waterfall, Glymur plummets an impressive 198 metres, and it is a real gem of the oft-overlooked (or bypassed entirely) Hvalfjörður. Be warned, though—it’s no stroll in the park. The hike is a four-hour round trip on uneven terrain. Sturdy hiking boots and a decent level of physical fitness are required, but the payoff is breathtaking. Be prepared for a rather intense river crossing, and make sure to go wade past the waterfall and take the reverse side for your descent. Map square: F14 Runner Up

23

BEST OF ICELAND 2022

Runner Up

Arnarstapi to Hellnar Snæfellsnes

Eldborg Snæfellsnes

If you need to stretch your legs on a Snæfellsnes road trip, this is a no-brainer.

It’s an easy coastal walk that takes around 50 minutes (one way); in exchange for your minimal effort, you’ll see crashing waves, lively bird cliffs, lush valleys and possibly a playful seal or two. B12

Located at the heel of Snæfellsnes, the peninsula north of Reykjavík, this spatter cone crater stands 60 metres above the serrated lava fields. It’s a short, steep hike to the summit that rewards you with a striking view of the coast, and the Snæfellsjökull glacier. F12

Book these recommended tours and more at

gotravel.is

Snæfellsjökull Snæfellsnes National Park

Borgarfjörður Borgarnes-Húsafell

The Snæfellsjökull glacier is a staggering 1,446m high, crowning the tip of Snæfellsnes. Many would be happy just gazing up at its icy form—but then you’d be missing out! There are a couple of ways to summit: 3-5 hour tours will deliver you to the highest accessible point in a snowcat; longer tours allow you to conquer the glacier on foot. B12

Away from the crowds around the coast is the quiet fjord and inland countryside area of Húsafell. Turning left just before Borgarnes will take you on a trail of curiosities, including the powerful Deildartunguhver, the historical town of the Reykhólt, the Hraunfossar waterfalls, the gourmet restaurant at Hotel Húsafell, and, eventually, the foothills of the Langjökull glacier. E13

Háafell Goat Farm Borgarnes

Hvalfjörður Hvalfjörður-Akranes

The Icelandic goat stood on the brink of extinction until one woman, Jóhanna Bergmann Þorvaldsdóttir, made it her mission to save them. Today her goat farm of Háafell in Borgarbyggð is thriving: go there to buy milk, cheese and meat. Oh, and you can play with the very goat that the dragon Drogon snatches in season four of “Game of Thrones”. (Don’t worry, the goat lived to tell the tale.) . G13

A question we often get is: “I’ve a car and a free day—where should I go?” Obvious answers are Snæfellsnes and the south coast, but a less-travelled road is Hvalfjörður. This picturesque fjörd is packed with interesting spots and mysteries. There’s a creepy roped-off whaling station, an abandoned mine, the Glýmur waterfall hike, the remains of a British WWII base, and loads more to discover. E14-F14

24

BEST OF ICELAND 2022

Best Museum

Must-See Spot

The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

West

Go West, life is peaceful there Best Bathing Spot The Library of Water Bókhlöðustigur 17, Stykkishólmur

Flatey Breiðafjörður

Vatnasafn—or The Library of Water—is an eye-opening museum. Made by Roni Horn, the main room is a display of glass cylinders filled with meltwater from Iceland’s glaciers. It’s fascinating how the colour of each sample is unique, and sobering to think that more than one of these samples comes from a glacier that no longer exists.

Eventually, as the glaciers keep melting, the samples in the museum could be all that’s left of Iceland’s mighty ice giants.

Have a blast, art people. D11

You know that quintessential summer feeling of time slowing down? The smell of the season—grass, wildflowers, sea spray— floats on the breeze and there’s nothing on your agenda but to breathe it in. That’s Flatey. Drive to Stykkishólmur—a gem of the West in itself—and catch the ferry out onto Breiðafjörður to spend a day among Flatey island’s colourful houses and undeniable charm. Said one panellist: “There’s just something about Flatey that is indescribable.” A10

Runner Up

Runner Up

Krauma

Deildartunguhver, Reykholt Asking for an Icelander’s favourite bathing spot is sensitive business, but this year, Krauma was the unanimous choice for the best of the West. A stark and stylish place featuring steam rooms and hot pots powered by the sulphurous water of Deildartunguhver, it’s the perfect spot for an afternoon stop. While other designer pools can feel a little pretentious or overdone, there’s something about Krauma that’s just so inviting. The design is gorgeous; the water is clean; and there’s always ample space in the pool. Map square: B12 Runner Up

Runner Up

Guðlaug Langisandur, Akranes

Húsafell Canyon Baths Húsafell

These beachside hot pots are an impressive piece of design that were quick to become a crowd favourite when they were built in 2018. There’s nothing better than to soak your muscles in one of the geothermally heated pools while you look across the bay toward all the suckers in Reykjavík that aren’t in Guðlaug. H13

Ah, Húsafell. These hidden hot tubs are made for romance. Just a short hike away from the hotel, they are a collection of delightful stone monuments with perfect temperatures for your enjoyment. Húsafell has got food, they’ve got beds, and they’ve got some of the best tubs in the country.

Have fun, lovers. G13

Eiríksstaðir Living Museum Haukadalur

Djúpalónssandur Off Highway 572

Eiríksstaðir is the farmstead of Erik the Red, the birthplace of Leifur Eriksson, a.k.a. Leif the Lucky, a.k.a. the first European in North America. See where the legend was born and learn about Icelandic farm life 1,000 years ago. One of the most historic sites in Iceland, it’s a must-visit for those interested in the old ways. F11

Only 15 minutes drive from Hellnar lies Djúpalónssandur, a notorious black pebble beach which is supposedly both haunted and the location of an elf church. It was the site of a shipwreck that took the lives of fourteen British sailors in 1948, and you’ll still come across rusted metal fragments of the destroyed boat dotting the rocks. B12

Borgarnes Museum Brákarbraut 4-6, Borgarnes

Hellissandur Murals Hellissandur

Safnahús Borgarfjarðar is one of the most locally-focused museums in the country.

Located inside a bright red house near the sea, the museum offers a new program every year focusing on local artists. Their permanent exhibition, ‘Children Throughout A Century’ is a standout. Don’t miss the IKEA furniture! E13

The minds behind the Freezer Hostel organised to decorate Hellissandur with a variety of colourful and distinctive murals in 2018 in collaboration with international street artists. Now they provide a fantastic and unexpected stop during a scenic road trip of Snæfellsnes. Street art? In a town of 500? We love to see it. A12

The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

25

26

USEFUL INFO

The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

Grapevine on the Westfjords:

gpv.is/westfjords Our articles, info and guides for West Iceland and the Westfjords Tourist Information:

West Iceland Marketing Office www.west.is info@westiceland.is Tel: +354 462 3300

Swim: Drangsnes Hot Tubs

Festival: Aldrei Fór Ég Suður

Drangsnes, Strandir Region

Ísafjörður Strandir, Route 643 Info: aldrei.is Info: djupavik.is

A small fishing village in the western fjords of the Westfjords, Drangsnes itself is an absolute hidden gem, but the jewel of their crown is no doubt a series of three hot pots located just steps away from the shoreline of the town. With an expansive view of the ocean, this quiet swimming locale is worth the trip—especially if the Northern Lights are on the menu.

If you’re lucky, you might even see some whales. If not, well you still had a nice soak. Map square: F8

Festival Aldrei Fór Ég Suður—literally “I never go south”—is a celebration of music, but also a showcase of Ísafjörður’s can-do spirit. Started as a labour of love amongst friends, the festival has maintained its DIY approach, with a lineup of both famous Icelandic acts as well as upand-coming artists taking the main stage, and did we mention it’s always free? So have a nice time—and hope for snow. C6

Place: Djúpavík

Djúpavík is a far-flung and breathtaking hamlet around a rough dirt track deep in the Westfjords—be sure to check ahead that the road is serviced because it's truly sketchy. A handful of houses and a rusting shipwreck stand nestled next to a huge, crumbling factory building that seems like a surreal vision in the depths of the Strandir coast. In the summer, don’t miss their special “Factory” exhibition. F7

Emergency services

Tel: 112 (national helpline)

Weather report

en.vedur.is Recorded info: +354 902 0600

HOW TO GET THERE By domestic airline: Isafjörður (IFJ) Domestic flights to and from Reykjavík.

Main airline operator: www.airiceland.is Tel: +354 570 3000 Other airports are at Bíldudalur and Gjögur, with flights to and from Reykjavík serviced by eagleair.is

By car:

Road conditions www.road.is Tel: 1777 (Summer hours: 08:00-16:00 / Winter: 06:30-22:00)

By ferry:

From Stykkishólmur Ferry to Flatey and Brjánslækur Schedule & Info: www.seatours.is

By bus:

Museum: Ósvör Maritime Museum Bolungarvík Tel: +354 892 5744

Ósvör is a replica of a 19th century Icelandic fishing station, complete with a crew hut, tools and equipment, a rowing boat, a fish preparation area and a drying hut on display.

The curator always dons a traditional fisherman’s outfit, so you get a true, immersive, oceanic experience. Not only is it a fun afternoon outing, but learning about the terribly harsh and difficult life fishermen had might just make you feel a little more grateful for the little luxuries you have—like frozen pizza and Candy Crush. C6

Hike: Hornbjarg Hornstrandir

The dream of hiking is alive and well in Hornstrandir—the uninhabited northernmost point of the Westfjords—and Hornbjarg is its Mecca.

Only accessible by a boat ride and five hour hike, it’s a series of lush, green cliffs that drop abruptly down into the harsh Arctic waves below, with nothing standing between you and the North Pole. Feel the sea air on your face as you scan the waves for whales, the rocks for birds, and the grass for (fingers crossed!) some foxes. While there are one-day long trips to Hornstrandir, we’d recomment indulging in a multi-day trek. E5

Museum: Museum of Witchcraft & Sorcery Hólmavík Info: galdrasyning.is

A weathered wooden structure with a turf roof, Hólmavík’s main tourist attraction may look underwhelming, but like its subject, it’s got some magic. The museum’s most famous acquisition is a replica of a pair of “necropants”: trousers made of human skin, which allegedly dispense gold from the crotch for those brave or psychotic enough to make a pair. If that tickles your occult bone, indulge your morbid side with a visit. (Don’t wear your skin pants though.) F8

National Bus Network www.bus.is Tel: +354 540 2700

SAFETY NOTE The summer “high season” in Iceland ends on September 1st.

Please check vedur.is/en for weather forecast and road.is for driving conditions in the late summer. Some roads close completely when weather is poor. Additional travel alerts can be found at safetravel.is.

OPENING HOURS Opening hours may vary outside of the summer season, so be sure to check ahead.

27

C

B

D

E

F

G

H

J/

I

1

Located entirely outside of the Ring Road’s famous loop, the Westfjords is a region that’s frequently skipped. But to miss it is to miss some of the most stunning locations in the country—or even the world. The roads are carved into an endless sequence of vast flat-topped mountains punctuated by tiny towns in narrow fjords, often with great pools and hot pots, cultural hubs, small museums and cosy dining options. At the northern edge lies the hikers’ paradise of Hornstrandir, only accessible by boat or on foot. To get away from the bustle of the tourist trail, the Westfjords is as good as it gets.

BEST OF ICELAND:

Westfjords

The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

A

2

3

Charming villages and raw nature in the wild Westfjords

4

HORNBJARG A Ð A LV Í K

5

HORNSTRANDIR

HESTEYRI JÖKULFIRÐIR

DRANGASKÖRÐ

Hnífsdalur

65

Flateyri

Súðavík

Þingeyri

60

SELÁRDALUR HRAFNSEYRI

F

T

60

O

D

R

GJÖGUR

S

Djúpavík

B A L A FJ Ö L L

B R E I ÐAV Í K

612

HNJÓTUR

61 711

60

Varmahlíð

S K Á L E YJ A R

1 Hvammstangi

60

F756

35

Laugarbakki

1 FE

10

59 Borðeyri LL

SS

TR

ÖN

Stykkishólmur

F752

590

D

Búðardalur

F578

F734

35

A R N A R V AT N S H E I Ð I

576

Rif

LAU

55

Grundarfjörður

54

56

L J Ó S U FJ Ö L L

1

60

54 574

D J Ú PA LÓ N S S .

11

54

54

Ólafsvík

1

752

Flatey

Hellissandur

9

751

1

Reykhólar

S V E F N E YJ A R

H Ó L A R Í H J A LTA D A L

1

HVÍTSERKUR

V A Ð A L FJ Ö L L

Brjánslækur

8

Blönduós

645

62

75

DRANGSNES

60 FLÓKALUNDUR

612

744

Sauðárkrókur

Hólmavík

BJARKALUNDUR

L ÁT R A B J A R G

Skagaströnd

61 608

Tálknafjörður 63

76

82

SVA R FA ÐA R DA

643

E Patreksfjörður

Ólafs

Hofsós

W

Bíldudalur

7

76

745

745

82

643

S

KETILDALUR

76

TRÉKYLLISVÍK

635

J

76

N O R Ð U R FJ Ö R Ð U R

61

61

Siglufjörður

KROSSNES

Æðey

Ísafjörður

624

60

6

SNÆFELLSSTRÖND

Bolungarvík Suðureyri

H V E R AV E L L I R

F578

Arnarstapi Hellnar

ELDBORG

LÓNDRANGAR

SURTSHELLIR

54

HÚSAFELL

Reykholt

518

54 HJÖRSEY

F347

Hvítárvatn

550

ÞJÓR

13

Borgarnes 52

KALDIDALUR

F508

1

Kjalarnes

Reykjavík

41

G LY M U R

48

36

Þingvallavatn

Mosfellsbær

36 N E S J AV E L L I R

HEIÐMÖRK

Hvítá

35

365

F26

GULLFOSS

GEYSIR ÚTHLÍÐ

ÞINGVELLIR

GLJÚFRASTEINN

Kópavogur Hafnarfjörður

F338

52

41

1

14

F338

UXAHRYGGIR

1

Akranes

Garður

35 KJÖLUR

HRAUNFOSSAR

1

12

37

Þórisvatn

Laugavatn 37

35

Laugarás

F26

Reykholt

Þjórsá

S K Á L H O LT

Flúðir

32

STÖNG

F208

Veiðiv

28 The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

“Unlike its more famous cousin Reynisfjara, Rauðisandur matured out of its emo phase.”

From Reykjavík: 440 kilometres

How to get there: Highway 60

Accomodation: breidavik.is Car provided by: gocarrental.is

Westfjords

It’s Pronounced Breiðavík Not Benidorm A tropical weekend getaway to the Westfjords Words: Poppy Askham Photos: Art Bicnick

Bienvenido to the Costa de Westfjords. Swap sandals for hiking boots, bikinis for anoraks, and ice-cold sangria for flasks of steaming coffee. And for the love of god, give up on any dreams of a sun tan.

Escape to the country Gazing out of the office window on a drizzly Monday morning, I watch as tourists in ridiculously oversized paca-macs flee to safety of the nearest cafe. It’s early August, a period I would usually spend passed out on a Spanish beach. Iceland, although beautiful, can’t quite live up to my normal summer excursions in regards to sunshine.

Throughout the week my vitamin D deprived brain is haunted by dreams of

golden sands and azure seas and so at 9:00 on a Saturday morning, I drag the Grapevine’s resident photo wizard Art Bicnick on the ultimate summer road trip: a 6-hour drive to the wild, wild Westfjords, a mere 440 kilometres away.

First stop on the itinerary? Ice cream.

In one of the most remote regions in an already sparsely populated country, Erpsstaðir is a rare culinary oasis.

Yes, it would’ve made more sense to enjoy an ice cream when we’d reached our coastal destination, but as I rapidly learn, in the Icelandic countryside, you get your food whenever you can. And when the ice cream is made onsite by a farmer named Einar using rhubarb, blueberries and meadowsweet from the surrounding hills, how can you re-

fuse?

The clue’s in the name Attempting not to spill ice cream in the car rental, we hit the road once more. Before long we reach a causeway across a moody blue fjord—we are now officially entering Iceland’s least-visited region, the Westfjords.

From here the broad highways of the south are replaced with increasingly windy, gravel-covered roads and the further we travel, the worse the weather gets. As we near our final destination, the scenery is all but obscured from view by an impossibly thick fog, until we turn a bend in the road and the clouds suddenly miraculously part to reveal Rauðisandur.

Unlike its more famous cousin Reynisfjara, Rauðisandur matured out of its emo phase. In a country famed for its black sands, Rauðisandur is, as the name would suggest, a copper-toned outlier. Thanks to a relatively thin layer of pulverised scallop shells, the beach’s colouring morphs depending on light conditions. Today, under a strip of weak sun peaking out between ominous clouds, the sands are a soft ochre, contrasting dramatically against the dark cliffs and deep turquoise Atlantic. After the highway’s unfalteringly drab colour palette of greys, greens, yellow and blacks, the idyllic scene almost seems artificial.

A zeal for seals Something about the Westfjords re-

G

Guillemots, razorbills, skuas and kittiwakes dive in and out of sight over the cliff top, gliding effortlessly through the air as if to mock our beleaguered struggle against the wind and rain. I squint down at the segregated bands in the cliff and the nesting birds, trying to take in the awesome sight and simultaneously prevent myself from being swept off the cliff top.

The sweet fishy odour of guano fills the air. It’s this natural fertiliser made up of years-worth of bird excrement that is responsible for the soft mossy grasslands that top the cliffs and give puffins the perfect habitat to hide from nosy tourists. And sure enough, the unofficial mascots of Iceland’s recent mass tourism boom are nowhere to be seen.

It’s just as we feared, the puffins had left the cliffs for a day’s fishing before

we had even stirred ourselves out of bed. Or so we thought.

Just as we resignedly turn back towards the car, we spot a flash of orange amongst the greys and blacks of the swooping gulls and fulmars. You guessed it, a puffin is triumphantly returning to its nest with a beak full of small silvery fish. And suddenly we see the nests strewn along the cliff edge and a handful of puffins peering good-humouredly out at us.

With the final item on our itinerary ticked off we return to the car, ready for the 6-hour drive home, beach fix sorted for another year.

Where the puffins at?

The moment we clamber back into

Get Grapevine Merch!

s i . e n i pevine.is* a r g . p apev shop r evine.is g . o sh p.grap ine.is shop.grapevine.is shop.grapevine.is shop.grapev sho Don't Hesitate!

Act Now!

* You only need to type the URL in once

29

the car, the rain resumes as if some good-tempered equally seal-loving God had held off the downpour on our behalf. The weather steadily deteriorates as we drive back over roads half-submerged in rusty-hued puddles towards our quite literal port in the storm: Hotel Breiðavík.

The next morning, after a hearty breakfast, we venture back out into the rain towards the final stop of our adventure: Látrabjarg, the westernmost point in Iceland and, if you forget the Azores (which we do), the westernmost point in the whole of Europe.

A small squat lighthouse perches on the cliff, modestly marking the landmark, as the Atlantic stretches out before us all the way to Greenland. But the real attraction here is the 14 kilometres of 440 metre-high cliffs, home to Iceland’s biggest seabird colony.

The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

leases my inner child (though admittedly she’s never far from the surface), so when I read the word “seals” on a wildlife information board, I let out an involuntary squeal. I now have one mission in life and I politely inform my ever-patient travelling companion Art that we cannot leave Rauðisandur until I have seen a seal. Yes, I’ve seen them swimming in the murky waters of Reykjavík’s harbour a hundred times, but this is different, I explain, becoming more impassioned by the minute.

Eventually he gives in and we set out across the sandbar towards the lair of the mighty mammals, some two kilometres away.

Around twenty minutes into the trek, another childhood emotion resurfaces: a deep-seated fear of being stranded at sea spawned from an ill-fated family picnic. “Did you check the tide times?” I ask trying to keep the panic out of my voice. Art shrugs and continues to stroll along at a painfully slow speed; he clearly has never had his sandwich cruelly snatched away by a rogue wave.

The only distraction from my sense of impending doom is a fun little game I like to call “Is it a seal or is it a rock?” On the 50th round, the answer is finally the former. One of the dark mounds suddenly flops off the neighbouring sandbar and into the rapidly rising waters.

Before us are around 50 seals, more than my inner 7-year-old can handle and by far outnumbering the number of people we have seen since our arrival in the Westfjords. Quest complete, we turn back, but though we may be finished examining them, the seals are not finished with us. We are escorted back to the safety of dry land by an inquisitive convey of glistening black heads bobbing in and out of the water.

30

BEST OF ICELAND 2022

Best Hike

Best Café

The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

Westfjords Breathe in, breathe out, babe Best Accommodation Hornstrandir Strandir

Litlibær Skötufjörður

This was an easy one, because really, there’s nothing like Hornstrandir. Lying at the northernmost point of the Westfjords, Hornstrandir is a deserted region that is inaccessible except via boat, or a dayslong hike. There are no roads, no hotels, no campsites—not even toilets. That said, you’ll be rewarded with an immersive expanse of Icelandic nature and perhaps even some Arctic foxes. We highly recommend doing a multi-day trek because with its sheer cliffs, wide valleys and abandoned villages, it feels like the end of the earth.

D5

At the tip of a fjord opening and just when you feel that nature is truly at the forefront, a small sign reads “welcome” on the side of the road and beckons you to stop your car, walk up to a café, and rejoin civilization. Inside a small turf house, a hospitable Icelandic family greets you and invites you to relax, let them pull up a chair, as they proudly present: your afternoon tea. Yes, this is Litlibær, where you can enjoy some cosy pastries, cakes, pies, and, most notably, waffles. After hours of driving through fjord upon fjord, these homemade delicacies will make your mouth water. D7

Runners Up

Runners Up

Heydalur Mjóifjörður, Ísafjörður

In a picturesque valley near Ísafjörður, Heydalur is more than just a place to sleep, boasting a guesthouse, campsite, restaurant, swimming pool, greenhouse, farm, and recreation centre. Working on an eco-friendly basis, the majority of the food that’s served is local, with eggs and vegetables from the farm and trout from the lake. It’s a perfect base for outdoor activities in the Westfjords, but you could easily spend all day relaxing there in their two indoor pools. And don’t miss the natural hot pot—it’s only accessible by walking across a cold, narrow glacial stream. But that just makes it all the more worthwhile, right? Map square: C6 Runner Up

AirBnb Option

Skor Hike Rauðasandur

Heimabyggð Aðalstræti 22b, Ísafjörður

Past the Westfjords’ red Rauðasandur beach, over a mountain called “The Saddle” and two very steep coves, is the old boat landing area Skor and the abandoned lighthouse of Skorarviti. The hike is precipitous and follows sheep trails, so take a guide; if you aren’t an experienced hiker, perhaps sit this one out. B9

Heimabyggð’s cosy, wooden interior breeds relaxation. They’ve got standout coffee, fresh sourdough bread, a great beer selection and a good general atmosphere, which they described as healthy and homey. Expect large portions, larger lattes and lots of laughter. This is a true gem of the Westfjords. C6

Hótel Djúpavík Djúpavík, Strandir

Flateyri Villa Flateyri

Kaldbakur Dýrafjörður

Simbahöllin Fjarðargata 5, Þingeyri

Frozen in time in the smallest village in Iceland, Hótel Djúpavík is more than just a hotel: it’s an experience. There’s an abandoned herring factory-turned-museum, a shipwreck, and the surrounding wilderness to keep you company. Sleep tight with the music of a nearby waterfall, ebbing tide, and Arctic birds. That’s peace, that is. F7

This house came highly recommended by our panel. The title on AirBnB is “Unique villa, a perfect spot in magical Westfjords,” which is not exactly the most pithy catchphrase, but we’ll take it! The roomy rental matches the quirks of an old-school Icelandic home with all the mod cons, in one of the most charming cities in Iceland. C7

Directly between Dýrafjörður and Arnarfjörður lies Kaldbakur, the highest point of the “Alps of the Westfjords.”

Unlike flat-topped, glacier-shaped mountains, this one is steep and pointy and, as such, it’s recommended that only those who are physically fit with good hiking gear attempt this hike. B7

Who says you can’t get Belgian-style waffles in the middle of nowhere? Certainly not Simbahöllin. This cafe is nested in the tiny fishing village of Þingeyri, and it’s a local favourite. Get some waffles and make sure to add some homemade jam to that. Pick up their cookbook (available in our shop!) so you can recreate their recipes at home. C7

Best Meal

The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

Joint Winners

31

Best Tour

Best Bathing Spot

Hellulaug Vatnsfjörður

One word: seals. Show up to this hidden—i.e. blink and you miss it—swimming hole early in the morning and you might be rewarded with some sleepy seals relaxing just metres away from you. And for those weirdos unimpressed with seals, there’s also some fantastic birdwatching surrounding this unknown gem, so expect to see eider ducks, arctic terns, golden plovers, and oystercatchers moseying around. Hellulaug is a relatively new hot pot, so it’s rarely crowded (and we hope it stays that way). There’s no entrance fee, but of course leaving some kronur in gratitude is always appreciated. Map square: C9

Vigur Island Ísafjörður

Tjöruhúsið Neðstakaupstað, 400 Ísafjörður

If you want something a little more chilled, a day trip to Vigur—or “Paradise Island,” as West Tours calls it—is the perfect way to see the natural beauty of the Westfjords.

This tiny island, smack in the middle of Ísafjarðardjúp, has more avian residents than humans—including everyone’s fav, puffins. Reachable via boat from Ísafjörður or by taking a kayak tour, it’s an afternoon trip full of birdwatching bliss. Make sure to pay attention to the shoreline, too—you might just see some sunbathing seals. D6

What else can you say? Once again, Tjöruhúsið takes gold. With communal tables, low wooden ceilings, warm lighting and a seemingly endless buffet, Tjöruhúsið offers an informal take on fine-dining in an 18th century fishing building. The fish comes straight from the harbour, so dishes change daily—it could be anything from crunchy gellur to wolffish in cream cheese sauce.

Book ahead, come hungry, and get ready to tell everyone you know about what is bound to be the best fish meal you had in Iceland, or, better yet, the world. C6

Runners Up

Runners Up

Svalvogar Jeep Tour Svalvogar Trail

FLAK Eyrargata, Patreksfjörður

The Svalvogar peninsula’s jagged shoreline provides the setting for one of the most extraordinary jeep tours you can find in the country. On this dirt trek, you’ll pass rugged cliffs, desolate beaches, incredible rock formations, and, of course, some truly spectacular birdlife. B7

FLAK is a crowd favourite—not only do they have fantastic fish soup, but they also put on a roster of amazing concerts and exhibitions that truly liven up this small charming coastal town. Make sure to stop by this cosy bar and feel like a real Westfjords local. B8

Pollurinn Tálknafjöður

Whale Watching Hólmavík

Einarshús Bolungarvík

A few kilometres outside of Tálknafjöður, this idyllic fjordside bathing spot offers an unforgettable, jaw-dropping view of the surrounding mountains. There are a couple of hot pots of different temperatures, and i.

It’s open 24/7, so feel free to arrive late to soak while the sun sets. B8

In Hólmavík, you can see a humpback no more than a stone’s throw from the town centre. The calm bay has smooth currents, so it’s a perfect place to see the giant marine mammals. Our panellists recommend Láki Tours. Hopefully you’ll get to see the famed animals breach. F8

All out Icelandic pizzas that are outrageously humongous, and a working man’s Icelandic lunch buffet everyday: that’s Einarshús in Bolungarvík. Bonus, it is in an old Icelandic timberhouse that has been carefully restored. C6

Krossneslaug Route 643, past Árneshreppur

Straight up the road from Djúpavík, this old-school bathing spot is quite literally where the road ends in the remote paradise of Strandir. Sandwiched between the mountains and the sea, it offers a wild and positively sublime pool experience. Hey—how often can you relax in a pool while staring out into the abyss of the North Atlantic Ocean? F7 Runner Up

32

BEST OF ICELAND 2022

Must-See Spot

Best Road Trip

The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

Westfjords Bird cliffs & hidden museums Best Museum Látrabjarg Route 612

Southern Westfjords Brjánslækur to Dynjandi

Sitting pretty on the westernmost point of Iceland, Látrabjarg could best be called the avian metropolis of Iceland. A lush green cliff that juts abruptly down more than 400 metres into the Atlantic, Látrabjarg is the perfect place to laze around and watch the puffins dance above your head. Birds in this location are particularly tame, and thus it’s a great location for photography, bird-watching or just a nice picnic. For a particularly great day, use it as an anchor point for a road trip along the southern coast. A9

The southern Westfjords contain some of the most breathtaking scenery in Iceland.

Start at Brjánslækur, where the ferry from Snæfellsnes comes in, and drive west on Highway 62 to the Rauðasandur red sand beach. Next, turn onto Highway 612 for the beautiful bird cliffs of Látrabjarg, before heading up to Patreksfjörður for a mosey around one of the most peaceful villages in the country. Take Route 63 to the Samúel Jónsson Museum, then cross Dynjandisheiði for a perfect finale at the incomparable Dynjandi waterfall. C9

Runners Up

Runners Up

Samúel Jónsson Brautarholt, Selárdalur, 465 Bíldudalur

Imagine this: You’re driving through one of the most isolated areas of Iceland on an unserviced 25 kilometre dirt track. Suddenly, you come upon a house surrounded by bizarre, brightly coloured, cartoonish sculptures. Well, welcome to the Samúel Jónsson Museum. Samúel was a self-taught artist and a hermit who used his pension money for plaster, which he used to make the memorable oddities that litter the yard surrounding his jaunty white and red house. To call this spot wonderfully surreal would be an understatement—it seems straight out of a Wes Anderson movie. B8 Runner Up

Dynjandi Just off Route 60

Súðavík To Þingeyri Súðavík To Þingeyri

Iceland—and particularly the Westfjords— is dripping with waterfalls, but Dynjandi is a show-stopper. Cascading down like a tiered wedding cake, it has an immense presence that must be seen. For the full experience, check out the view of Dynjandi from across the fjord before seeing it up-close. C8

Here’s your itinerary: Start with the arctic foxes in Súðavík, go to Ísafjörður for a snúður at the Old Bakery and lunch at Tjöruhúsið, head to Suðureyri for a soak at the pool, jaunt to Flateyri for a pint at Vagninn, and end with some coffee and waffles at Simbahöllin. Now that’s a day well-spent in Iceland. D7

Runner Up

Arctic Fox Centre Eyrardalur, Súðavík

Sea Monster Museum Dalbraut, Bíldudalur

South Westfjords Beaches Southern Westfjords

Strandir Route 643

Stopping at the Arctic Fox Centre is a magical afternoon for adults and kids alike.

Arctic foxes are, in fact, the only terrestrial mammal native to Iceland. Famously elusive, they’re also amongst the hardest to spot in the wild, so the centre is your best bet to get close to one. D7

There’s no better place to learn about Iceland’s supernatural sea creatures than the tiny coastal town of Bíldudalur. Indeed, Arnarfjörður is said to host many of them.

This museum is dedicated to studying this branch of folklore with a loving, anti-cynical touch. B8

The southern Westfjords area is famous for its beaches, including the yellow sand of Barðaströnd and the red sand of Rauðisandur. Both are off the beaten track, making them an ideal spot for tranquil strolls and wildlife spotting. Walk out to the sand and keep your eyes peeled for seals. A9-C9

“If you want remote, this is it,” said the panel of the Strandir road. “It’s only for confident drivers, but you’re treated to sheer cliffs with mist clinging to their tops, waterfalls, beaches, and total solitude for hours.”

Stop at the Djúpavík factory to see their latest exhibit, and finish at Krossneslaug. F7

The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

33

34 The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

A/

D

E

F

G

H

I

Looking to get away from the confines of the capital? North Iceland is a bucket list of must-see majesty. Akureyri, Iceland’s second-largest city and ‘the capital of the north’, provides a fantastic base from which to explore, while smaller towns in the region each have their own unique charm and character. In summer months, the North also provides a great access point to the Icelandic highlands with highlights of Hveravellir’s geothermal area and Askja caldera.

From the delights of the Diamond Circle to Hollywood-famous Húsavík and the volcanic fantasia of Lake Mývatn, and the glacial waterfall Dettifoss in between, the delights of North Iceland are not to be missed.

2

3

J

BEST OF ICELAND:

North

4

Lakes, lava, hikes, herring and whales

5

6

7 Grímsey

ARG

870

Raufarhöfn

8

M E L R A K K A S L É T TA LANGANES

Kópasker

KROSSNES

Siglufjörður

76

N O R Ð U R FJ Ö R Ð U R

76

TRÉKYLLISVÍK GJÖGUR

Djúpavík 643

82

76

745

745

10

Húsavík

F839

Hrísey Grenivík Dalvík

85

H Ó L A R Í H J A LTA D A L

Blönduós

1

1

Akureyri

Laugar

Svalbarðseyri

1

711

12

1

919

1

85

917

1

1

752

MÖÐRUDALUR

A L D E YJ A R F O S S

Laugarbakki

Jökulsá á Fjöllum

Egilsstaði

907

Lagarfljó

HERÐUBREIÐARLINDIR

59 Borðeyri

F752

13

JÖKULSÁ Á BRÚ

923

931 F821

Búðardalur

F578

A R N A R V AT N S H E I Ð I

HALLORMS

F734

35

F26

VÍTI

54

LAUGAFELL

F881

F752

1 14

60

1

901

SAURBÆR

F756

35

F88

590

1

F26

Hvammstangi

60

G R Í M S S TA Ð I R

Mývatn

Skjálfandafljót

821

751

1

➊

F88

848

Varmahlíð

1

864

862

GOÐAFOSS

HRAFNAGIL

61 60

Vopnafjörður

Jökulsá á Fjöllum

91

75

DRANGSNES

HVÍTSERKUR

DETTIFOSS

1

Sauðárkrókur

11

JÖKULSÁRGLJÚFUR

VESTURDALUR 862

Skagaströnd

A L FJ Ö L L

864

835

744

645

GJÁSTYKKI F899

83

Hjalteyri

643

Bakkafjörður ÁSBYRGI

Hofsós

61

85

76

82

85

Þórshöfn

85

Ólafsfjörður

SVA R FA ÐA R DA LU R

B A L A FJ Ö L L

Hólmavík

85

TJ Ö R N E S

9

DRANGASKÖRÐ

08

s

C

B

1

F910

F894

F910

ASKJA

F910

F910

SPRENGISANDUR

SKRIÐUKLAUSTUR

923

Öskjuvatn

931 934

F903

F26 F902 F578

939

H V E R AV E L L I R F910

SURTSHELLIR

1

HRAUNFOSSAR 518

Reykholt

F909

NÝIDALUR

35

K V E R K FJ Ö L L

KJÖLUR HÚSAFELL

F347

ÞJÓRSÁRVER

VONARSKARÐ F26

550

Hvítárvatn LÓNSÖRÆFI

35

USEFUL INFO gpv.is/north

Our articles, info and guides for North Iceland Tourist Information:

Visit North Iceland

Visit: Dettifoss

Swim: Grettislaug

Vatnajökull National Park Info: vatnajokulsthjodgardur.is

End of Highway 748, Sauðarkrókur Info: northiceland.is

Experience the magnanimous power of Icelandic nature at the Diamond Circle’s most famous stop. Yes, even from the car park—a good 10-minute walk away—you can hear the thundering of Dettifoss, the most powerful waterfall in the whole of Europe.

There’s viewing platforms from both sides (if you have a 4x4, definitely go from the east) but regardless of which you chose, it’ll be breathtaking.

Yeah, you can’t beat North Iceland.

Map square: H10

Grettislaug, deep in Skagafjörður, is supposedly where outlaw viking Grettir bathed after he swam from Drangey island, 7.5km away. If you’re not a Saga nerd though, it’s also a cosy rock bathing pool 25 minutes off the main road in total secluded wilderness. Unusually empty in comparison to the crowded pools of the North, this is one of those places we love so much that we don’t even want to advertise so it doesn’t get too popular.

But we’re a kind magazine… so... C10

Hafnarstræti 91, 600 Akureyri northiceland.is info@northiceland.is Tel: +354 462 3300

Musuem: Akureyri Botanical Gardens

Emergency services

Tel: 112 (national helpline)

Weather report

Eyrarlandsvegur, Akureyri

One of the most northerly botanical gardens in the world, the Akureyri Botanical Garden is frequently ranked as one of Akureyri’s most popular attractions and with good reason. The garden stands starkly in contrast to the usual green and greys of Icelandic flora, exhibiting a dazzling variety of colours and flowers, diligently tended to by a dedicated team of locals. Enjoy a gentle stroll through the winding paths, and then indulge in a cake and coffee in the strikingly modern café. F11

en.vedur.is Recorded info: +354 902 0600

HOW TO GET THERE By domestic airline: Akureyri Airport (AEY) Domestic and international flights Eyjafjarðarbraut vestri, Akureyri Main airline operator: www.airiceland.is Tel: +354 570 3000 Other airlines: norlandair.is Tel: +354 424 4000 Húsavík Airport (HZK) Domestic flights to and from Reykjavík.

Main airline operator: www.eagleair.is Tel: +354 464 1300

By ferry:

kkafjörður

917

917

Island: Grímsey

Eat: Holtsel

Visit: Dimmuborgir

Info: akureyri.is/grimsey-en

Finnastaðavegur 601, Akureyri

Mývatn

While North Iceland is almost entirely subarctic, its northernmost point is bisected by the Arctic Circle. Grímsey sits 40km north off of Iceland’s mainland, the only opportunity to step foot into the Icelandic Arctic. With a human population less than one hundred people strong, the island’s abundant inhabitants are birds—esBakkagerði pecially auks and gulls. F8

Add a little pep to your step and pick up some damn good ice cream at dairy farm Holtsel. This place has been slinging sweet treats for over ten years, and it’s as farm-to-table as it gets. Make sure to try the skyr ice cream with wild Icelandic bilberries (they even make the skyr from scratch). Also pick up whatever meat or fish they might be selling. This place knows food. F11

Did you know that Finnish metal band Dimmu Borgir got their name from a spiky rock formation in Northern Iceland? Well, now you do. Conveniently located on the ring road, this spot is a great place for an afternoon stop, or to camp and hike. PS: It’s also a great place to take promo pictures for your debut black metal project.

Alternatively also really cute around Christmas. H11

94

1

National Bus Network www.bus.is Tel: +354 540 2700

SAFETY NOTE The “high season” in Iceland ends on September 1st. Please check vedur.is/en for weather forecasts and road.is for driving conditions in the late summer. Some roads close completely when weather is poor. Additional travel alerts can be found at safetravel.is.

Seyðisfjörður

93

1

➊ Mývatn Nature Baths

92 Neskaupsstaður

BRÚ

953 931

Eskifjörður

H A L L O R M S S TA Ð U R

Reyðarfjörður

92

RIÐUKLAUSTUR

RÆFI

By bus:

Local Delights Advertisement: North

Egilsstaðir

Lagarfljót

From Akureyri to Grímsey and Hrísey Schedule & Info: visitakureyri.is/en/transport/ ferries

96

931

Fáskrúðsfjörður 955

939

1

1

Djúpivogur PA P E Y

Stöðvarfjörður Breiðdalsvík

Jarðbaðshólar, Mývatn tel +354 464-4411 www.myvatnnaturebaths.is info@jardbodin.is

Begin with a relaxing dip in clouds of steam rising up from fissures deep into earth’s surface and end with a luxurious bath in a pool of geothermal water, drawn from depths of up to 2500 meters. Mý-

vatn Nature Baths are perfect for those who enjoy close contact with nature and want to relax their body and soul in the warm natural waters, overlooking the scenery of lake Mývatn and the volcanic crater of Hverfjall.

Opening Hours: Winter 10:00-22:00 Summer 09:00-24:00 It’s best to book in advance at mnb.is

The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

Grapevine on the North:

36 The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

Distance from Reykjavík: 292 km

How to get there: Route 1 North, then Route 74 Northeast, finally Route 744 East

Get Medieval With It

1238 Museum puts you (yes, you!) in the shoes of a Viking Words: Sam O’Donnell Photos: Art Bicnick Far in the northern reaches of Iceland, nestled in between Mount Tindastóll and Laxárdalsfjöll Mountain, in a town called Sauðárkrókur, lies a museum called 1238. Since its opening in 2019, 1238 seeks to immerse visitors in the experience of the Icelandic Civil War.

Clash of the clans From 1220-1252, Iceland was embroiled in a political feud between six families vying for power and influence.

The most famous of these clans were the Sturlungar, led by Snorri Sturluson and his nephew Sturla Sighvatsson; the Haukdælir, led by Gissur Þorvaldsson, and the Ásbirningar, led by Kolbeinn the Younger.

Snorri Sturluson was the chief of the Sturlungar clan, and a vassal for King Hákon of Norway from 1220 until his death in 1241. He was tasked with bringing Iceland under the sovereignty of Norway, but he did little to enforce the king’s will, which is what ultimately led to his downfall. Snor-

Info: 1238.is Car provided by: gocarrental.is

ri’s nephew, Sturla, was also a vassal to King Hákon, and although he was much more aggressive in his work for the king, Kolbeinn and Gissur sought to gain power for themselves, and thus joined forces to defeat the Sturlungar, ‘Game of Thrones’ style.

Time for war Exciting stuff. Upon entering the museum, I met Steinunn, who would be giving me the grand tour, which began at the “Selfie Centre,” where I garbed myself up in authentic Viking clothes and took a somewhat embarrassing amount of selfies. I must admit, the woolen tunic and cloak made me feel like a badass and I dreaded taking them off, so I set about the museum dressed as a Viking.

It was then time to learn, so I marched off to read the thrilling history of Iceland’s civil war on the walls of the museum, which detailed the history of the aforementioned clans and would also set the stage for the museum’s augmented reality (AR) experience,

North which details the battle of Flóabardagi that happened on the Bay of Húnaflói, and their virtual reality (VR) war experience, both of which allow you to engage in battle.

Where the past meets the future The AR station is a massive round table with a raised relief map of the Bay of Húnaflói, where Steinunn says I can experience the last naval battle of Iceland, “Flóabardagi” through an iPad Pro. This battle saw the people of the Westfjörds pitted against the people of the North. The primary weapons used in this battle were large, heavy stones. On the iPad, the viewer can take control of any ship and use it to hurl rocks at another ship. Since the results of the battle are inconclusive even to this day, any outcome is potentially accurate. I led the people of the Westfjörds to victory.

Following my military victory, I continue into a large room outfitted with display cases full of weapons and

armour. Steinunn tells me that even though all of the weapons are enclosed in glass, and replicated from the middle ages, the government of Iceland has the museum on a watchlist.

The arsenal is extraordinary. Swords, spears, axes, and suits of plate armour all look impressive as an ethereal soundtrack plays in the background.

Next, we moved on to the VR room, where, as Steinunn puts it, “the past meets the future.” I had to take all of my Viking gear off at this point; the VR set wouldn’t fit over it. Once Steinunn got me all suited up, it was time to begin the simulation. Steinunn explained to me that while several artefacts had been recovered from the site of the battle which I was about to experience, Sturla’s spear was never found.

My objective in the VR was to retrieve the spear.

have breakfast, however, we were interrupted by a scout. We’re under attack, he said. Kolbeinn and Gissur had staged an ambush. I picked up a shield and moved to my station, where several spears and a pile of heavy stones

sight. A cross to mark a grave stood in the distance, where a raven perched, and the same mountain in the simulation stood before me. I took a deep breath and closed my eyes, and I could have sworn I heard the din of a thousand voices, shouting their battle cries.

Valhalla waits The Oculus device went over my eyes, and the world turned black. Before I knew it, I woke up in the year 1238 on a beautiful summer day. A green mountain stood before me, rising high up into the sky. The birds were singing, the sun was shining, and it looked like it would be a lovely day. It didn’t take long for my fellow clan members to wake up and start the day by polishing their weapons. Today we were to go to battle in the name of Chief Sturla against Kolbeinn the Younger and Gissur Þorvaldsson.

Before we even got the chance to

The Reykjavík Grapevine has been travelling around Iceland for over 15 years. We’ve compiled the knowledge and experience accumulated over that time into a new booking engine at go.grapevine.is It offers a hand-picked selection of tours our travel writers have experienced and enjoyed, at an excellent price. Every booking made via Go Travel helps fund our journalism.

Use the promo code GRAPEVINEGO2022 for an extra 5% discount.

Browse the tours we’ve recommended at

gotravel.is

37

were ready for me to throw at the attackers.

Stone after stone, spear after spear, I fought valiantly for my chieftain, but our attackers were better prepared— probably because they ate breakfast.

Ultimately, Sturla was slain, and the battle was lost. There was a silver lining, though. Sturla’s spear stood upright in the ground in front of me. I grabbed it and stepped back through the portal into the real world.

Once the simulation had completed, Steinunn told me that I could still visit the site of this battle. So I did.

Kakalaskáli was entirely covered in snow, but it was still an awe-inspiring

The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

“Stone after stone, spear after spear, I fought valiantly for my chieftain, but our attackers were better prepared—probably because they ate breakfast.”

38

BEST OF ICELAND 2022

Best Meal

The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

North

Best Café Joint Winners!

Where the mountains sing…

Best Accommodation Rub23 Kaupvangsstræti 6, Akureyri Rub23 is a renowned seafood restaurant showcasing a large array of local catch and sushi. They’re also the North’s go-to for steak—whether it’s tenderloin beef or Atlantic Wolffish. Rub23 has a fancy-feeling interior with warm service, and you can order your preferred main ingredient with different spiced ‘rubs’ as the flavouring, for a bespoke dining experience. Try one of their “festivals” (a.k.a. tasting menus) for a true foodstravaganza. F11

Áshús Glaumbær, Varmahlíð In this precious historical site near the bay of Skagafjörður, rests the farm Glaumbær, where Þorfinnur and Guðríður, the parents of the first European born in North America, lived around the year 1007. Unsurprisingly, the cosy tea room here, Áshúsið, is about as Iceland as you can get. Their pancakes and jam are worth the stop; they taste just as good as grandma used to make them.

You know, your Icelandic grandma. D12

Runner Up

Deplar Farm 570 Fljót, Ólafsfjörður

Café Berlin Skipagata 4, Akureyri

Ólafsfjörður’s Deplar Farm is one of Iceland’s most luxurious hotels. A remote getaway hidden in one of Iceland’s least populated peninsulas, it’s the perfect basecamp for heli-skiing, whale watching, trekking or catching those elusive Northern Lights. The hotel has gained a worldwide reputation for a reason—if you’re looking for high-end travel that still feels rustic and in tune with your surroundings, you’ve found it. Oh, and did we mention they have their own geothermal spa? They do, and it’s wonderful. Map square: D10

Ok, it has café in its name, but our panel agreed that it’s more “restaurant” than “café”, and their hearty brunch offering is what clinched them the crown.. From the classic eggs and bacon to more Instagrammable options like poached eggs and avocado toast, this place has everything your heart (and stomach) might desire. F11

Runner Up

Akureyri Backpackers Hafnarstræti 98, Akureyri

A classic option, Icelandic Hotel Mývatn is the definition of a crowd pleaser. Smack dab in the middle of a number of attractions—from the Geothermal baths to Dimmuborgir—it’s the perfect stop during your Ring Road tour. H11

Akureyri Backpackers has clean, smart, minimal rooms, dorms for those on a budget, and residents have the choice of cooking in the kitchen or eating in the cosy café-bar. A star amongst hostels. F11

Until 2016, the tiny northern town of Siglufjörður would probably not be your #1 destination for artisanal chocolates. But then Frida Chocolate Coffeehouse opened and suddenly, unexpectedly, the winds of the Atlantic carried the scents of creamy, thick, piping hot chocolate out to the country and the Word was with God and the Word was Chocolate. D9 Runner Up

Budget Option

Icelandair Hotel Mývatn Reynihlíð, 660 Mývatn

Kaffi Fríða Túngata 40a, Siglufjörður

Daddi’s Pizza Vogar, Mývatn Need a quick bite? Daddi has you covered.

Located basically in the middle of nowhere—far away from Subway and other fast options—this local favourite serves up quick, delicious pizza. Get it after a day of hiking and enjoying the sites of Mývatn, and eat it in the car, of course. H11

Gísli, Eiríkur, Helgi Kaffihús Grundargata, Dalvík Café or museum? Bar or concert venue?

This cool stop is named after the historic and storied brothers Gísli, Eiríkur and Helgi.

The café is decorated with antique farm treasures and paintings of the brothers.

The Kaffihús’ delicious menu offers the best of North Iceland’s home-cooking.

E10

Best Bathing Spot

Best Hike

The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

North

…through the screams of seagulls Must-See Spot Geosea Sea Baths Vitaslóð 1, Húsavík

Tröllskagi Near Siglufjörður

GeoSea burst on the scene only five years ago and quickly became one of the most talked about and beloved pools in the country. Now, it’s won its first first prize as our top place to swim in the North. With views over the mountains surrounding Skjálfandi Bay—one of the best places to spot whales in Iceland—the serpentine architecture of this spa creates the perfect place to relax, soak, and look out into the horizon. G9

With the highest mountains in North Iceland (towering over 1400m), Tröllaskagi offers gorgeous views of the Arctic Ocean and a variety of hiking terrains. For an easy option, consider Svarfaðardalur Nature Reserve as your target destination. Time your hike on summer nights for when the sun reaches the surface of the sea. For more experienced hikers, Dýjafjallshnjúkur, Kvarnársdalshnjúkur and Heiðingja are the three tallest ones there—have fun. E9

Runners Up

Runners Up

Mývatn-Laxá Mývatn

This spectacular volcanic nature reserve, nominated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, has to be seen to be believed. Mývatn is the fourth-largest freshwater lake in Iceland, and easily the most otherworldly. You’ll find unusual geologic and volcanic features, including pseudocraters and lava pillars. Extremely rare and endangered moss balls known as marimo also inhabit the lakebed. Just so you know, Mývatn also sports Iceland’s only biting midges. While they’re way less bother than mosquitos, it’s best to come prepared with repellent so you can enjoy the stunning beauty of the area in peace. Map square: G11-H11 Runner Up

Runner Up

Aldeyjarfoss Sprengisandsleið, Highlands

Krafla Mývatn

Rather than a wide curtain of water—a common format for Icelandic falls—Aldeyjarfoss presents itself as a narrow powerful cascade, plunging into a deep pool at the bottom of a dramatic gorge. Weirdly left out of every “Best Waterfall In Iceland” list, it’s tucked away but a showstopper. G12

Just a few kilometres away from Lake Mývatn lies the Krafla caldera, one of the most active volcanic systems in Iceland. Right off the highway is the Víti explosion crater, and if you don’t stop there for a short hike, you’re an idiot. Yes, it’s a bit of a steep walk up, but you’d be dumb to skip it. H11

Book these recommended tours and more at

gotravel.is

39

BEST OF ICELAND 2022

Mývatn Nature Baths Jarðbaðshólar, Mývatn

Ásbyrgi East of Húsavík

The striking blue hue of Mývatn Nature Baths’ geothermal water invites calm just by looking at it. This lagoon is situated in the fragile lava ecosystem surrounding Lake Mývatn, and while the lagoon itself ranges in temperatures between 36°C to 40°C, the steam baths clock in at 50°C, with near-100% humidity. A true Icelandic bathing institution. H11

The monumental Ásbyrgi canyon is an unparalleled natural wonder. Shaped like a horseshoe, its vast vertical cliffs surround an area crisscrossed with hiking trails that take you through forests, past lakes, and up into the various chasms in the walls.

There’s an information centre and café at the entrance, and a camping site for those who want to spend a nice holiday. H10

Hauganes Hot Pots Hauganes

Kverkjöll Vatnajökull National Park

The Haugenes hot pots exemplify the word peaceful. Far away from the cares of the world, these beachside tubs look out at a peaceful fjord—and if you’re lucky, you might be graced with a breaching humpback. (And yes, this is the place with the kids pool that looks like a ship’s hull.) E10

An advanced pick for serious hikers, start your hike at the northeast corner of Vatnajökull. You’ll pass between two glacial tongues, famed for the constant volcanic activity below them, threatening eruption.

Along the way, visit wild mud pools and hot springs. As this route is deep in the Highlands, paths are only accessible from July to September. H15

40

BEST OF ICELAND 2022

Best Road Trip

Best Museum

The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

North A whale of a tale!

Best Tour Arctic Coastal Highway Highway 82 to 76 to Sauðarkrókur

1238 Museum Aðalgata 21, 550 Sauðárkrókur

Too long to be considered a single “road trip,” this truly epic drive takes the long way through North Iceland, past the fjords, cliffs and desolate fishing villages the Ring Road cuts out of the circuit. Journeying through long caves and jagged cliffs, it’s a lonely route—and one that will certainly spark some sort of introspective epiphany. Make sure to stop at Siglufjörður’s Café Fríða and the Hofsós pool for a pick-me-up though.

Don’t forget to blast some tunes.

Far in the northern reaches of Iceland in a town called Sauðárkrókur, lies the 1238 Museum. The museum seeks to immerse visitors in the experience of the Icelandic Civil War, which embroiled Iceland from 1220 to 1252. With Viking costumes to try on, smart tech exhibits, and a virtual reality war experience, it’s not only educational, it’s also interactive—literally allowing you to engage in battle yourself. Finally, you can win a war! C11

Runners Up

Runners Up

Whale Watching Various providers

Once again, whale watching in Eyjafjördur or Skjálfandi Bay is our pick for the best tour North Iceland has to offer. While nothing is guaranteed, it’s possible to spot humpback whales, blue whales, minke whales, dolphins, harbour porpoises and more cetacean life during a cruise on the Arctic Ocean. Seabirds, including puffins, Arctic terns and eider ducks may also be seen. Boat tours are available from Akureyri, Dalvík, Grenivík, Hauganes, Hjalteyri and the “whale capital” of Húsavík. You know, the one from that song with the lyrics, “where the whales can live ‘cause they’re gentle people…”

Runner Up

Runner Up

Askja & Holuhraun by Superjeep Various providers

River Rafting Skagafjörður

A trip to the Askja caldera and the Holuhraun lava field in the volcanic desert is a life-changing experience. Askja is a 50 km² volcanic crater filled with freshwater, forming the deepest lake in the country at 217 metres. Holuhraun is Iceland’s youngest lava field, still cooling! H14

There’s a few different rivers one can raft on in the North, with various levels of difficulty reaching Grade IV+, so it’s good for all levels of adrenaline junkies. Check out Viking Rafting and Bakkaflöt Rafting—those are the two most famous companies. The season lasts from June to August. D12

Book our recommended tours securely at

gotravel.is

Diamond Circle All around the north

The Herring Era Museum Snorragata 10, Siglufjörður

This powerhouse road trip features the best of the north. Visit Húsavík, famed for its whale-watching tours and Eurovision Museum. Continue to Ásbyrgi, canyon of the Norse gods. Take in the roaring power of Dettifoss, Europe’s most voluminous waterfall. Explore the volcanic region of Lake Mývatn. You won’t regret it!

Siglufjörður’s pride and joy, and unquestionably the best herring museum in the world, Síldarminjasafnið is an unexpected gem. Visitors are reliably overwhelmed by the bounty of artefacts and historical colour to be found at this museum dedicated to Siglufjörður’s glorious commercial fishing past. D9

Langanes Peninsula Northeast Iceland

Akureyri Art Museum Kaupvangsstræti 8-12, Akureyri

The northeastern-most point in Iceland, Langanes translates as “Long Peninsula.”

This remote region is perfect for watching puffins, gannets, and guillemots live their best seabird lives. You’ll even find a ghost town: Skálar! If you’re seeking “off the beaten path” as a hallmark of your road trip, Langanes is your answer. J8-9

This world-class art gallery features contemporary exhibitions by both local and international artists. There’s always something going on there, and their ambitiousness and drive must be applauded.

This summer, they’re presenting work by maverick Ragnar Kjartansson, Grapevine favourite Auður Lóa & more! F11

41 The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

5 star rated on TripAdvisor with over 6 ,000 reviews

42

A/

The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

ey

C

B

1

D

E

F

G

H

I

BEST OF ICELAND:

870

2

Raufarhöfn

East

M E L R A K K A S L É T TA LANGANES

3

Kópasker

85

4

Vast fjords, wild nature and remote towns in Iceland’s Eastfjords

85

Húsavík

F839

85

Þórshöfn

TJ Ö R N E S

85

Bakkafjörður ÁSBYRGI

GJÁSTYKKI

renivík

5

F899

83

864

JÖKULSÁRGLJÚFUR

VESTURDALUR

85 862 835

DETTIFOSS

1

ri

Vopnafjörður

Jökulsá á Fjöllum

6

917

Laugar

Svalbarðseyri

864

862

GOÐAFOSS

G R Í M S S TA Ð I R

F88

1

HRAFNAGIL

7

85

Mývatn

Bakkagerði

848

917

Skjálfandafljót

21

919

1

8

1

94

1

F26

MÖÐRUDALUR

A L D E YJ A R F O S S

1

901

SAURBÆR

Jökulsá á Fjöllum F88

9

Egilsstaðir

907

Lagarfljót

HERÐUBREIÐARLINDIR

Seyðisfjörður

93

1

92 Neskaupsstaður

JÖKULSÁ Á BRÚ

923

953 931

Eskifjörður

H A L L O R M S S TA Ð U R

Reyðarfjörður

F26

10

F881

VÍTI

F910

F894

F910

923

Öskjuvatn ASKJA

F910

F910

SPRENGISANDUR

96

931 934

Fáskrúðsfjörður 955

F903

F26 F902

11

F910

939

1

F909

NÝIDALUR K V E R K FJ Ö L L

VONARSKARÐ

1

Djúpivogur

12

PA P E Y

LÓNSÖRÆFI

The furthest region from the Icelandic capital, East Iceland is home to the stunning Eastfjords. One of the oldest areas of the country geographically, the scenery is char13 acterised by huge mountains sloping dramatically into the sea, swirling sea birds and tiny, tucked-away villages. Although journeying east takes time and effort, the traveller who ventures off of Route One in search of lesser-known spots will be greatly rewarded.

GRÍMSVÖTN Where else in the country can you find vibrant art communities, unique stone collections, and—most importantly–reindeer, all in the same area? All that, and the fact that East Iceland is often graced by far better weather than the rest of the country? Time to 14 pack your bags and head east.

F985

SUÐURSVEIT

D

U

R

1 ÍGAR

92

SKRIÐUKLAUSTUR

JÖKULSÁRLÓN

1 H VA L N E S

1 Höfn í Hornafirði

VESTRAHORN

Stöðvarfjörður Breiðdalsvík

Grapevine on the East:

gpv.is/east

Our articles, info and guides for East Iceland Tourist Information:

East Iceland Regional Information Centre

Hike: Atlavík

Festivals: Eistnaflug & LungA

Bar: Beljandi Brewery

Hallormsstaðarskógur Forest

Neskaupstaður & Seyðisfjörður Info: eisntaflug.is / lunga.is

Breiðdalsvík Info: facebook.com/beljandibrugghus

LungA is an arts festival in which the participants sign up for workshops and bring the event to life with their own performances, before a blowout party; Eistnaflug is a heavy music festival in Neskaupstaður, featuring all shades of rock, noise, metal, gothy shit, and more. Despite their differences, both are excellent examples of exciting artistic activity taking place far away from the capital city. I8 & I9

Once you get over the initial surprise of encountering a craft microbrewery in such a tiny town, it’s well worth sipping a pint (or four) of the various drafts cooked up by Beljandi Brewery.

Despite the building’s former history as a slaughterhouse, Beljandi’s amiable bartenders, pool table and book exchange library have transformed the space into a welcoming, unpretentious watering hole. I11

The Atlavík inlet in the Eastfjords is among the most beautiful places in Iceland. It’s a secluded wooded area with a small beach, and the option of renting a boat to sail on Lagarfljót— the lake that the Icelandic version of the Loch Ness Monster, Lagarfljótsormurinn, allegedly lives in. Being so far away from the sea, it’s sheltered from the wind, making it the perfect place to get away from it all and enjoy life.

Map square: G10

700 Egilsstaðir, Iceland www.east.is info@east.is Tel: +354 471 2320

Emergency services

Tel: 112 (national helpline)

Weather report

en.vedur.is Recorded info: +354 902 0600

HOW TO GET THERE By domestic airline: Egilsstaðir (EGS) Flights from Reykjavík.

Sunnudalsvegur, Egilsstaðir Main airline operator: www.airiceland.is Tel: +354 424 4020 Smaller airports Þórshöfn, from Akureyri with Norlandair (norlandair.is) Hornafjörður, from Reykjavík with Eagle Air (eagleair.is) Vopnafjörður, from Akureyri with Norlandair (norlandair.is)

By ferry

The Smyril Line Ferry travels between Seyðisfjörður and the Faroe Islands & Denmark once a week Schedule & Info: www.smyrilline.com

Swim: Selárdalslaug

Visit: The Arctic Henge

Visit: Tvísöngur

Selárdalur

Raufarhöfn

Seyðisfjörður

This old-fashioned swimming pool is a bit of a celebrity. Located on the banks of the salmon-rich Selár river, you can hear the roaring water as you do a couple of laps, soak in the hot pot, or relax on the sun deck. It’s a bit like a smart and well-kept Seljavallalaug if it hadn’t been allowed to crumble and deteriorate, and had its changing rooms soiled by weird pooping tourists who can’t wait for a toilet. F6

The far northeast is one of the most remote regions of Iceland. Carved off entirely by the Ring Road, the last village on Route 85 is Raufarhöfn, a tiny, far-flung settlement with a population of 194 people. It’s the home of the Arctic Henge, a large stone monument made of stacked basalt, and organised according to the ideas of local priest Kolbeinn Þorleifsson. It’s a strangely magnetic and improbable site in a truly wild region of the country. D2

Built in 2012 by German artist Lukas Kühne, this set of interconnected concrete domes acts as a natural amplifier, turning your voice into a fivetone harmony—the traditional sound of Icelandic music. The sculpture is located on a mountain side above Seyðisfjörður and is the perfect place to explore some musical madness.

Leave me alone, Mom! I’m working on my debut folk album! I8

By car:

Road conditions www.road.is Tel: 1777 (Summer hours: 08:00-16:00 / Winter: 06:30-22:00)

By bus:

National Bus Network www.bus.is Tel: + 354 540 2700

SAFETY NOTE The summer “high season” in Iceland ends on September 1st. Please check vedur.is/en for weather forecasts and road.is for driving conditions in the late summer. Some roads close completely when weather is poor.

Additional travel alerts can be found at safetravel.is.

OPENING HOURS Book our recommended tours with ease at

gotravel.is

Opening hours may vary outside of the summer season, so be sure to check ahead.

43 The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

USEFUL INFO

44

BEST OF ICELAND 2022

Best Accomodation

Best Tour

The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

East

Pro-tip: Try the food Best Meal

Atlavík Camping Ground Nordurgata 2, Seyðisfjörður

Reindeer Tours Breiddalsvík

There’s a lot of stunning campgrounds in East Iceland, but Atlavík is a true standout.

With solid amenities, it’s the perfect basecamp to explore Iceland’s biggest forest, characterised by gushing streams, tucked away cabins, views over Lake Lagarfljót, and the famously picturesque view and mild summer weather. Quiet-seeking travellers can listen to the rich birdlife and look out for the infamous Lagarfljót Worm.

Blissful. How better to experience the infamous rugged beauty of East Iceland’s nature than by living in it? G10

That’s right kids—they’re real. While you might see reindeer moseying around the wilderness during your road trips in the east, there’s nothing like a guided tour to their areas. A super jeep is a solid way to find these gorgeous animals, and if you know any photographers, don’t forget to take them along. Of course, these tours are not available all year long—reindeers spend their summers up in the mountains—so take advantage of this in the fall, winter and spring. And make sure not to bully any with a red nose. I11

Runners Up

Runners Up

Norð Austur Nordurgata 2, Seyðisfjörður

The crown of the East, Norð Austur’s sushi will lead you to rethink your existence and even the fact that atoms combined to make us at all. And when you taste that Pylsu Sushi, your brain will explode into distant galaxies. This place has literally left our food experts—plural—speechless. One of our best, Shruthi Basappa wrote in 2017: “Is Norð Austur worth the trip to Seyðisfjörður? Is it the best sushi in Iceland? A resounding ‘yes’ to both.” Map square: I8 Runner Up

Runner Up

Nielsen Tjarnarbraut, Egilsstaðir

Randulff’s Sjóhús Eskifjörður

Helmed by the previous head chef of Dill, Nielsen offers a constantly changing menu full of local produce and impossible imagination. This heart spot manages to both feel cosy and inviting while also distinctly high-end. We expect great things from you, Nielsen. H8

Located right on the ocean, this former fishing landing station now plays host to a delightful Icelandic restaurant that serves up traditional fare with delightful hospitality. Make sure to stay at the nearby Mjóeyri guesthouse for that true Icelandic experience. I9

Wilderness Centre Fljótsdalur

Oddsskarð Skiing Eskifjörður

Ever wondered how it would be to live like Icelanders of yore? Well, you can experience it at the Wilderness Centre. They offer authentic old-style accommodation that sends you back in time—whether you want to become a landowner, a farmer, or just an ordinary person. There’s a range of trips and activities on offer, and you’ll have access to a bath house with a sauna. F10

If you find yourself moseying around East Iceland in the winter, don’t miss a trip to the Oddsskarð Skiing Area. One of the best skiing areas in Iceland, this pass gives you a fantastic view of Reyðarfjörður and some lovely trails that cater to both advanced and beginner skiiers. Check online before you go—it’s only open if there is snow. That might be obvious, but... you know.... I9

Fosshotel Fáskrúðsfjörður Hafnargata 11-15, Fáskrúðsfjörður A beautiful, historic hotel in the old hospital in Fáskrúðsfjörður, which was originally built to service French fishermen. Their cultural impact remains in the small museum, and the more-than-decent wine list. I10

Sea Kayaking Seyðisfjörður Experience this gorgeous fjord from the ocean. A calming experience, rent a kayak and loop around this town—one of the artsiest in the country—to feel really connected with the fjord. Pick and nice day and you’re in for a real treat. I8

Nort e rn Lighth s

45 The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

HOW MUCH DO YOU KNOW ABOUT ICELAND? Arctic Circle

Questions: 1. What makes the Northern Lights?

2. Where did the first Icelanders come from?

3. How many Icelanders are there?

The A start rctic s her e

Arct Fox ic

ICELAND: the BIGGEST little Country on Earth is a unique and wonderful puzzle book where the puzzles are all about Iceland.

History, geology, politics, pop-culture – you name it! So pick up your copy today and become an expert on all things ICELAND!

ICELAND’S LARGEST BOOKSTORE

Midgard Serpent

Forlagið bookstore | Fiskislóð 39 | www.forlagid.is | Open weekdays 10-18 | Saturdays 11-17

46

BEST OF ICELAND 2022

Best Hike

Best Road Trip

The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

East

Never go to the Highlands in a Swift Best Bathing Spot Stórurð Borgarfjörður eystri

Borgarfjörður Eystri Borgarfjörður Eystri, Eastfjords

This hike, starting from Vatnsskarð, takes approximately 6 hours to complete. After a long trek up the valley, you come to a stunning maze of huge broken rocks that have tumbled down from Dyrfjöll, leaving a vast horseshoe-shaped cleft in the mountains above. The biggest reward, though, is Stórurð itself—gigantic boulders surrounded by unearthly turquoise water. Honestly, it’s not a good idea to go in winter, but put it on your list. I7

This drive is as scenic as it is pleasant. You start off driving towards the wide black beach of Sandur, curving right into the mountains; soon, you’re looking down across the East Iceland coastline from high above. You swoop down into an all-but abandoned valley, where there are a few interesting stops, before winding around a sheer scree slope on a dirt track, arriving at one of the cutest towns in Iceland as your reward. Check road.is in advance. I7

Easy Option

Runners Up

Vök Baths Lake Urriðavatn

Vök’s architecture is a discrete grass-roofed concrete structure, half-buried in the hill alongside Urriðavatn. In Icelandic history, the lake raised suspicion for housing a sea monster, since ice would not form in this location over the winter.

Nowadays, it’s understood the lack of ice is due to the lake’s geothermal hotspot. Vök capitalizes on this wellspring, offering an outdoor spa with multiple heated pools that stretch into the lake’s body. One can soak in 40-degree hot water with a hand lazily dipping into the 5-degree lake lapping the hotpot’s lip. Yes, the pools are floating. Where else can you find something like that?

Map square: G8

Hengifoss Near Egilsstaðir

Möðrudalsöræfi Route One, Eastfjords to North East

Located adjacent to a gorge near the Largarflót lake, Iceland’s second-tallest waterfall is a great day hike. The waterfall is known for its red clay layers, caused by volcanic ash ejected millions of years ago.

Along the way you’ll see the basalt column paradise of Litlanesfoss, another waterfall, and hey, isn’t two better than one? G9

Whatever the weather or the time of day or night, this area will always be enchantingly or hauntingly beautiful. “I drive this route regularly and it never gets boring,” said the panel. “Suddenly you’re in the Highlands— usually all by yourself—and you realise it’s just you and the trolls up there.” E8

Advanced Option Runner Up

Advanced Option

Runner Up

Mjóeyri Guesthouse Eskijfjörður

Laugarvalladalur Pool Laugarvalladalur Valley

This small hot tub is a true hidden gem.

Located at the local guesthouse, this pot— shaped like a boat—boasts a spectacular view out to the ocean in one of the most remote areas in the country. Stay there, spend your days searching for some reindeer, and enjoy a soak in the evening. I9

In what feels like the middle of nowhere, is this green oasis with a natural geothermal pool and stream. Not only can you sit in hot water and chill (not literally), you can even take a shower under the hot waterfall! It’s quite a challenge to get to, but so worth it. E10

Víknaslóðir Borgarfjörður Eystri to Seyðisfjörður

Öxi & Lagarfljót Route 939, Berufjörður to Lagarfljót

If you’re up for an ambitious five-day hike, this “trail of the inlets” has all the awe-inspiring scenery you could want. This epic hike winds its way around deserted coves, less-travelled valleys and abandoned fjords. Real talk: Unless you’re a very experienced hiker—we’re talking Himalayan— don’t do this in the winter. I7-I8

During the summer months, ascending the steep peaks of the Öxi pass from Berufjörður is breathtaking, adrenaline-inducing, and not for the faint of heart. Descending to Lagarfljót, you can use the remaining daylight to circle the lake or drive to the Kárahnjúkar dam, checking out the Laugarfell hot pot on the way. H10-11

Best Museum/Gallery

Best Café

The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022

East

Where the mountains slump into the sea Must-See Spot Skaftfell Austurvegur 42, Seyðisfjörður

Sænautasel Old Farm Road F907, near Sænautavatn

This far-flung cultural outpost maintains a year-round arts programme in a tiny eastern town, with a surprising and cutting-edge programme that relates to the town’s artistic history. It’s probably the best place in the East to see some contemporary art from both local and international artists. On the ground floor, there is also a café-bistro-bar with great pizzas, local beers and a small library. There’s an events programme with lectures and concerts in the summertime, too. I8

If you don’t stop at this turf house for some hot chocolate and waffles, you are missing out on one of the most interesting spots of the East. Tucked away in the middle of nowhere, cosy under it’s grassy roof, Sænautasel is made just like the Icelanders lived thousands of years ago—complete with sheep, chickens and more. Note: we’d take a 4x4 to get here. And a warning: You might want to build your own turf palace after visiting here. E9

Runners Up

Runners Up

Stuðlagil Jökuldalur

Stuðlagil, right next to the glacial river Jökulsá á Brú, is one of Iceland’s largest collections of basalt columns. A dizzying slope, interwoven with precarious foot trails and rope handholds, it’s an awe-inspiring locale and a dream for geologists. It’s hard to put the scale of this delightful canyon into words, but all we can say is go here. There’s two paths from the canyon—the Highlands road is particularly spectacular though. Wander above the basalt cliffs, but be careful not to stand too close to the water’s edge. Map square: F9Runner Up Runner Up

Runner Up

Mjóifjörður Mjóifjörður, Fjarðabyggð

Kárahnjúkar Dam The Highlands

One of the most remote fjords in the East, the drive to Mjóifjörður is an adventure in itself. Following the steep slopes down to a tiny village of about 20 inhabitants also provides you with astonishing views of the surrounding mountains and the beautiful Klifbrekkufossar waterfalls. I9

It’s not the most beautiful place in Iceland, but seeing the country’s largest and most notorious hydroelectric dam is an impressive and sobering experience. After driving across a dusty Highland desert, the hard lines of the dam appear from the wilderness like an alien spacecraft. E10

Book Best Of Iceland award-winning tours at

gotravel.is

47

BEST OF ICELAND 2022

Snæfellsstofa Skriðuklaustur, Egilsstaðir

Klausturkaffi Fljotsdalsvegur, Skriðuklaustur

This visitor centre located in the first BREEAM certified—meaning it’s sustainably built—building in Iceland offers a great exhibition about the Eastern part of the Vatnajökull National Park, and its fauna, flora and geological development. It’s a perfect place to spend a rainy day and organise your trip as the staff is always ready to give advice. H8

This curious little café worth a stop because of their outstanding cake buffet. You can eat as much of the delicious homemade cake and freshly fried kleinur as you please from the buffet table, and there are savoury delicacies on offer, too. The lunch buffet will fill you up for the rest of your road trip. F10

Petra’s Stone Collection Bustarfell, Hofsárdalur

Kaffi Lára Norðurgötu 3, Seyðisfjörður

Only in a small town will you find something like this. Petra’s Stone Collection is a museum dedicated to the life’s work of a late great local of Stöðvarfjörður whose hobby was collecting precious and pretty minerals from the area. On a summer’s day, it’s a blissful place to hang out. I11

The one. The only. This local café/bar is a beloved hotspot for Seyðisfjörður, and no trip to the town is complete without a stop here for a beer or coffee. Sit on the wooden benches outside and sunbathe. I8

48

The Reykjavík Grapevine Best of Iceland 2022