CONTENTS INTRODUCTION HISTORY OF VIETNAM
Origins Territorial Expansion French Invasion Colonial Rule and Resistance Reactions to the Communst Party Post-war Development Time-line
HISTORY OF HO CHI MINH CITY Development of Saigon Development of Ho Chi Minh City Visual Comparison of Ho Chi Minh City then and now
SOCIAL FACTORS AND CULTURAL DEVELOPMENT Language Social Factors Arts Architecture Religion Enetrainment Cuisine Fashion
APPENDIX I - DEVELOPMENT OF HO CHI MINH CITY APPENDIX II - PERSONAL REFLECTIONS REFERENCES
2014, Â INTERNATIONAL Â VISIT Â TO Â HO Â CHI Â MINH Â CITY, Â VIETNAM
. The  history  of  international  visits  started  in  1990,  these  visits  are  part  of  the  final  year  on  B The  history  of  international  visits  started  in  1990,  these  visits  are  part  of  the  final  year  on  BA  (Hons)  Ar- chitecture  (International)  course  at  the  University  of  Huddersfield.  Over  the  past  years  students  have  visited  many  exciting  world  cultures  and  places  where  they  are  able  to  gain  invaluable  experience  through  first  hand  research  over  a  period  of  three  to  four  weeks  in  understanding  of  unfamiliar  Cul- tures,  Context,  Place,  Architecture,  and  the  built  environments.  This  year  the  visit  was  set  for  Vietnam  based  in  Ho  Chi  Minh  City,  which  has  seen  a  dramatic  development  over  the  past  decade  and  is  con tinuing  to  develop  at  an  amazing  pace  with  limited  impact  of  the  recent  world’s  financial  troubles.  With  this  change  primarily  driven  via  western  model  of  urban  planning  /  Architecture,  many  aspects  of  the  traditional  Vietnamese  life  style,  culture  and  environmental  demands  are  facing  new  challenges  and  for  cities  in  similar  built  environments.  Having  engaged  in  in  a  detailed  urban  study  over  period  of  four  weeks,  Ho  Chi  Minh  City  presents  an  ideal  location  to  consider  how  the  future  of  our  diverse  cultures  and  places  should  be  enhanced  and  celebrated. This  study  looks  in  detail  and  aims  to  explore  and  understand  the  key  factors  which  inform  our  place  making  in  how  and  why  the  existing  built  environment  and  supporting  urban  structures  are  organised  in  the  manner  they  are  for  a  given  context.  The  structure  of  the  report  is  based  on  study  of  four  key  areas,  which  are;;  Historical  and  Cultural  developments Development  of  Urban  Patterns  and  Landscape Architectural  Developments  and  Typologies Trade  Economy  and  Industry  Materials,  Environmental  and  Climatic  consideration Following  the  urban  analysis  each  student  is  asked  to  consider  a  major  design  proposal  in  the  defined  study  areas  to  support  and  enhance  the  existing  development  of  place  making.  These  design  propos- als  are  often  a  response  based  on  the  detailed  understanding  of  the  place  through  the  urban  study  and  how  any  new  proposals  may  impact  the  identity  of  the  existing  place.  The  completed  study  provides  a  very  valuable  source  of  information  for  the  students  to  consider  when  developing  their  design  propos- als  with  an  in-Âdepth  understanding  of  culture,  context  and  place. Vijay  Taheem.  (Year  3  Leader). With:  Jon  Bush,  Hilary  Chadwick  and  Dr  Yun  Gao.
INTRODUCTION This study of Ho Chi Minh City is a detailed urban analysis of the part of the city around Ben Thanh Market. The aim of the study is to investigate and explore the local culture, context and place based around the themes defined by the project brief. Upon completion, the books will inform how any future developments may be considered in response to the information gained through compiling them. The following volumes offer a vast research on Vietnam, and more specifically on Ho Chi Minh City. The The information included is mostly based on the experience of living in Vietnam’s economic capital for almost a month. This was an opportunity to interact with the local people, their culture and way of life and thus attain a deeper understanding of their tradition in architecture and planning. The The first books will focus on details about the unusual history of Vietnam and its biggest city. The multiple wars and occupations, the country has been involved in are extremely clear to read in its traditions in its culture, from the food and festivals to the language and all arts, and what was most obvious to us – in the tradition in architecture. The study rests mostly on experience, especially in its second part, which talks about culture. However, the rest is based on what the Vietnamese had to say and show about their turbulent past in the various monuments and museums, as well as on information, gathered from trans- lated local literature. The other three volumes reveal the city with its architectural characteristic. Each of them is an urban study, based in a different area, all of which are situated in the most central and tourist-friendly District One. Despite being close to each other, every area has its specifics and landmarks and is in a way unique from the rest. They are all focused on their own field as it follows: Area One is focused on food, with its stalls, vendors, restaurants and little shops, as well as with its immediate vicinity of the Ben Thanh Market, the source of all fresh ingredients. Area Two’s most important branch is the clothing- industry, as the site offers multiple tailor ateliers and clothes shops. The last and largest area is also fo- cused in the field of manufacturing but of furniture. The three books offer detailed information on every aspect that have influenced the architectural development of the city. All this is conveyed through maps, drawings and diagrams, pictures and panoramas. The studies are a visual representation of a vast re- search based mostly on observation of the local’s habits and way of life, on their typical architecture, with its common styles, materials, methods and structures, as well as on information derived from Vietnam ese students of architecture, who were helpful enough to show us the city and “explain” it through their perception. All three study areas gravitate around the Ben Thanh Market, one of the most cultural places in the city. It has been majorly influential to the urban studies, as it is a blend of all aspects of Vietnam and its pecu- liar lifestyle;; a miniature version of the city: bursting with colour, noise and people at any time and any place. Those books are just an attempt to represent and explain the vibrance of Ho Chi Minh City, with its complicated traditions, the hidden order of chaos and people’s silent friendliness. They are a slightly confused and eager to explore Western view on the ultimate multi-cultured place, where Buddhist monks have Vietnamese iced coffee in French bakeries.
HISTORY OF VIETNAM
HISTORY OF VIETNAM Origins In In his book “Vietnam – a long history” (2013) Nguyen Khac Ven states that the people of Vietnam de- scend from the Mongolic nomads and Indonesian travellers. They livied in a territory, known as the Red River Valley, which is now part of South China and North Vietnam. They are believed to be among the first East Asians to practice agriculture. The nation was founded in 2879 B.C. by Hung Vuong - the first ruler of what was the first independent Vietnamese state. It then became a vassal state of China between 111B.C. and the 15th century.
Chinese Invasion and the Ly Dynasty During this period, the Chinese tried to integrate Vietnam culturally and politically by introducing Chi- nese as the official written language. Chinese art, architecture and music were imposed as well. This happened during the rule of the Lý dynasty - the first great Vietnamese dynasty, which ruled for more than 200 years. The dynasty dates back to 1009, when Lý Thái Tổ overthrew the Early Lê dynasty, and lasted until 1225, when the 8-year-old queen Lý Chiêu Hoàng was forced to abdicate the throne in favour of her husband, Trần Cảnh. The Ly dynasty was the first Vietnamese dynasty to retain their reign for more than just several decades, which allowed them to secure and expand territory. During the Lý's reign, the official name of Vietnam became Đại Việt. The increasing Chinese influence introduced Confu- cianism, which had great impact on the cultural and educational development of Đại Việt. The first University in Vietnam, Temple of Literature in Hanoi, was opened for commoners, who did not belong to nobel families, in 1070. The country prospered during the Ly dynasty reign. They developed a system, based on rule of law, rather than arbitary principles. They chose the Đại La Citadel (Hanoi) as the capital. People liked them because they gained their power through their economic strength, and not by military pressure, like prior dynasties. At the Battle of Bạch Đằng River (938 A.D.), near Hạ Long Bay in northern Vietnam, the Vietnamese forces defeated the Chinese invaders. This put an end to the alien imperial domination.
Fig.1, Bach Dang Victory
Fig.2, Temple of Literature, Hanoi
Fig. 3, Pair of Nghe, late Le dynasty, 16th–17th century, Glazed stoneware
Fig. 4, Ewer, Late 15th century Stoneware painted with underglaze cobalt blue
Fig.5 Large Basin, Ly dynasty, 12th–14th century Glazed stoneware
HISTORY OF VIETNAM Terriotrial Expansions and Western Invasions Vietnamese influence spread gradually and indirectly in Angkor, which was the head of the Khmer Empire in the 13th century. The Khmer Empire, present-day Cambodia, was a powerful Khmer-Hin- du-Buddhist empire in South-East Asia.
Fig.6, Territorial Organisation of South-East Asia, 12th Century
It was not until the early 19th century that Vietnam exercised direct control. In 1813, Nak Ong Chan gained the Cambodian throne with the help of Vietnam, and under his rule Cambodia became a pro- tectorate. Following his death in 1834, Vietnam colonised Cambodia. It was governed under a Viet- namese administration and claimed a Vietnamese province. The trend of Vietnamese dominance continued during the French colonization, under which Cambodia was forced to cede many of its southern territories (present-day Saigon and the Mekong Delta) to the Vietnamese. Later, the Khmer justified their infiltrations into Vietnam as an attempt to regain the territories, which Cambodia lost during previous centuries. Meanwhile, the tension between Vietnam and the the kingdom of Champa, on the South was growing.The Cham kingdom was located in what is today’s central and southern Vietnam, in the time-frame between approximately the 7th century to 1832, when it was conquered and annexed by Vietnam. The Vietnamese troops gradually managed to push their opponents to the South until they finally capture the capital destroy the kingdom. After this victory, Vietnaese troops kept marching South, gradually approaching the flatlands of the Mekong delta which they occupied at the end of the 17th century. Vietnam kept some of the Chinese traditions long after their independence. The Chinese, however, had not abandoned their ambition to rule the Red River delta. Under the rule of the Ly dynasty, Viet- nam became a strong force in South-East Asia and managed to resist all their efforts to get reincorpo- rated in the Chinese empire, which suffered another defeat. French Intervention European powers started arriving in South-East Asia in the 17th centurey, in pursuit of wealth and Christian converts. The Portuguese were first to infiltrate the area in 1615. However, Vietnam's inde- pendence, was gradually eroded by the French. In 1887, after a series of military conquests (between 1859 and 1885), the entire country officially became part of French Indochina. The conquerers laid the foundation of their influence in the three main areas in which the country was then divided – Tonkin (North), Annam (Central region) and Cochin-China (South). Under the French ruling, Chinese writing was replaced by a system of characters, based on the Latin alphabet. Another, intrusion imposed by was the French was the embezzling of land and turning it into property of feudal lords. The Nguyen dynasty, which was the last ruling family of Vietnam. It was in power between 1802 to 1945 and was hostile to the Roman Catholic missionaries and their Vietnamese converts. They were persecuted and during the 1830s a few were executed. Both religious and commercial, as well as military pressure forced Emperor Napoleon III to approve the launching of a naval expedition in 1858 in order to force acceptance of the French protectorate. In 1862, Hue agreed to cede several provinc- es in the Mekong delta to France. In the 1880s, the French launched an attack on the North. After severe defeats, Vietnam accepted a French protectorate over the remaining territory of the country. Vietnam was first unified and a single generalship was created in 1887. The first link between the North and the South was also established - a rail and a road line between the two parts.
Fig. 7, Vietnamese Colonies of the Second French Colonial Empire
Panorama of Sai Gon center and Sai Gon river in1955
Fig. 8, Map of Asia, 1747
Fig.9, French Indochina.Vietnam divided into three regions: Tonkin, Anam and Cochin China. 1886.
Colonial Rule and Resistance Anti-colonial forces soon began to emerge due to the poor economic conditions. Despite all the improvements that the French occupation brought to the transport and communication sectors, as well as, the commerce and manufacturing, it was of no advantage to the population. Peasants struggled under heavy taxes and high rents. In In 1930 the revolutionary Nguyễn Sinh Côn (Ho Chi Minh) formed an Indochinese Communist party demanding reform and independence. It was not until the 1940 when Japan placed Vietnam under military occupation that the Communists started gaining supporters. With local French administration being suppressed, the Communists organised the Vietminh Front (short for Viet Nam Doc Lap Dong Minh, or League for the Independence of Vietnam). When the Japanese surrendered to the Allies in August 1945, Vietminh declared the establishment of an independent republic in Hanoi. However, the French, were unwilling to approve the independence. In October, 1945 they drove the Vietminh and other nationalist groups out of the South and in December were 1946 a war broke out. Paris managed to establish a cooperative government on the South with Bao Dai, the former Annamite region empero. This part- nership was supported by Annam and Cochin-China but not from Vietminh. Bao Dai was declared emperor of all Vietnam in 1949. The Chinese revolution gave Ho Chi Minh and his followers an outside support for war resistance against French and Vietnamese troops. The South Vietnamese were armed by the United States were concerned about communist expansion in the area and Asia due to the domino effect, after being involved in the cold war with the Soviet Union and China,.
TIMELINE AND DETAILS
Cambodia, c AD 800-1100
Early kingdoms, AD 100-500
First records of the Vietnam destroys Vietnamese nation the Champa kingdom
17th Century
111 B.C. 2789 B.C.
Arrival of the first Europeans
15th Century
Vietnam becomes a vassal of China
Kingdoms in Indo-Vhina AD 1500
Napoleon lll launches a naval expedition
1830s 18th Century
The Vietnamese reach the Mekong delta
1858
Establishment of the Independent Republic in Hanoi
1940
1887
Persecution of Roman Catholic missionaries
Fig. 11, French prisoners leaving Dien Bien Phu battle, after being defeated by Vietminh.
Indocine Communist party is formed
Fig. 10, Map of the Southeast Asia;; Present-day Cambo- dia, Vietnam, Laos and China
1930
1945
France imposes influence The Japanese put Vietnam under military occupation on whole Vietnam
Fig.12
Cambodian piece agreement
Saigon surrenders;; the war ends
Bao Dai declared emperor Communists resume the war of all Vietnam
Vietnam Joins the World Trade Organization
Dece
April 30, 1975
1959
The war breaks out
1978
1963
June 1954
France agrees to end tha war Vietnam is separated
Fig.13, Phan Thi Kim Phuc runs from a scene where planes dropped napalm.
America gets involved
July 1995 1991
Vietnam invades Cambodia
Fig.14, South Vietnam police shoots a Viet Cong soldier. Saigon, 1968
January 2007
Full diplomatic relationship with America is restored
Fig.15, Self-immpolation of Thích Quảng Đức.
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Fig.19
Post-war Development Border clashes with Cambodia The The Cambodia border issue was left unresolved and in 1977 the conflict intensified. Border tension with the Communist government in Cambodia escalated rapidly after the fall of Saigon, and in early 1979 the Vietnamese invaded successfully and proceded to install a pro-Vietnamese government. A former Vietnamese ally, Beijing claimed that Chinese residents of Vietnam were prosecuted. This made them withdraw 800 technicians and cut off all aid. Within Vietnam, post-war economic and social problems were severe, and reconstruction proceeded Within slowly. As the war continued, 60,000 Vietnamese troops had entered Cambodia and ousted their communist leader Pol Pot and his pro-Chinese regime. In 1979, Vietnam was fighting on two fronts – defending its border from the Chinese invasion, and supporting its army in Cambodia, who were still fighting Pot’s guerrillas. The destruction of the country’s infrastructure during the years of fighting, combined with Hanoi’s The Marxist policies ruined the Vietnamese economy. This was under doi moi (economic renovation) due to their struggle for limited privatization. Vietnam didn’t start withdrawing its troops from Laos and Cambodia until 1988. However, a few years later, in October 1991 it supported the Cambodian peace agreement.
Fig.19, Areas impacted by U.S. ordnance (1964-1972)
Relationship with America Improves Vietnamese Ecnomy Reforms After the war America lifted its embargo, which was in effect since the beginning of their involvement After in the conflict. The full diplomatic relations between the two countries were completely restored in July 1995. The nation of Vietnam had to repay $146 million wartime debt to the U.S. incurred by South Vietnam, which forced the nation to eliminate bureaucrats and encourage foreign investments. Reforms Reforms were long unsupported by the ruling Communist party until the appointment of the progres- sive Nong Duc Manh as general secretary. The situation started changing: slowly and cautiously. The U.S. markets were opened to Vietnam’s goods and services in November 2001. This caused the cost rate of Vietnam’s goods to drop from 40% to only 4%. Furthermore, Vietnam opened its trade market to U.S. investments and foreign competition. In June 2005, Prime Minister Phan Van Khai became the first Vietnamese leader to visit the United States since the war. America is currently Vietnam’s biggest trading partner, annyally buying $7 billion in Vietnamese goods.
Fig.20, A sign in Cambodia
Vietnam became the 150th member of the World Trade Organization in January 2007, after waiting 12 years to join.
Fig.21, A Cambodian refugee with her child at the Ban Mai Rut refugee camp near Klong Yai, Thailand. 01 July 1979.
HISTORY OF HO CHI MINH CITY
Around the same time Chinese traders, who were driven out because of the Tây Són movement, also known as the Tay Son uprising, build a market near Saigon, which was known as Cho Lon – the Big Market. This movement is associated with a period of time between the rule of the Le Dynasty and the Nguyen Dynasty full of peasant rebellions and decentralized power. The Big Market became the major trading centre of the area where everything could be found. It became so attractive for people from all around the area that the space became insufficient. A merchant from a Chinese background called Quách Đàm bought land and constructed a new market from reinforced concrete where Cho Lon was moved and received its new name Quách called Đàm Market, currently known as Bình Tây Market. Another minority which could be found in Saigon was that of the Indians. They came from the Indian subcontinent and had roots in Bangladesh, India and Pakistan. They had their own culture and traditions, which they brought to Vietnam. Their main source of income, especially for the richer families, was the selling of cloth and silk, some of them also dealt with loans, others sold sweets, cakes, foreign alcoholic drinks, antiques and jewellery. Many of the Indians left after 1945 and returned to their homeland or went to other French colonies in Africa and Oceania. In 1859, according to Stewart (2012) in his book Vietnam, the French captured Gia Dinh District and called it the City of Saigon. The invadors were met In with fierce resistance from the Vietnamese. In order to defend themselves, the Europeans destroyed the second district citadel. There was some resis- tance from Vietnamese patriots even years after that happened. Saigon at the time was occupying present day District One and Cho Lon, which also fell under the rule of the French and was a separate town. It was in 1874 when France established dominance over the whole of South Vietnam and called it French Cochin China. Saigon became the capital of that territory from then on.
Fig.37, Saigon from above,date unknown
Fig.39, Post Office, date unknown
Fig.40, Post Office, Jan 2014
Fig.41, Saigon Notre Dame Cathedral, date unknown
Fig.42, Saigon Notre Dame Cathedral, Jan 2014
Fig.43, Hotel de Ville, date unknown
Fig.44, Ho Chi Minh City Hall, former Hotel de Ville, Jan 2014
Fig, 44, Municipal Theatre, date unknown
Fig. 45, Opera House, Jan 2014
SOCIAL FACTORS AND CULTURAL DEVELOPMENT
The origins of Vietnamese culture are derived The from a multitude of sources: In the South, the Indian and Hindu customs of traders have influenced the culture, and in particular the spicy cuisine, while in the North, Chinese traditions have played a largeer role in the forming of traditions. Over Over six decades of French colonialism has resulted in many examples of stately architecture, European style bakeries, and an inspired coffee culture. Numerous minority tribes have also influenced the culture with their ancient ways of living and through the trade of goods. The brutal war with America had devastating devastating impacts, and . Communist leadership also contributes greatly to Vietnamese culture. Fig. 46, A woman selling coconuts in Ho Chi Minh City
With its prime riverside location, and its growing population, Ho Chi Minh City is considered to be at the centre of culture in Vietnam.
LANGUAGE Language Name: Vietnamese Name in Language: tiếng Việt Language Family: Mon-Khmer No. Speakers: 85 million worldwide The The roots of the Vietnamese language lie in the Red River Delta region, and are involved with Indic and Malayo-Polynesian influences. When the Chinese took over during the 2nd Century BC, the Chinese language was used throughout Vietnam. However, the native language, written in chữ Nôm, was still used amongst the common people. In people. AD 939 the Vietnamese regained their independence and chữ Nôm became the main language. When the French occupied Saigon in 1859, French vocabulary became popular, and quốc ngữ, a Latin-based script was announced to be the written form of the language in 1910. Only a small amount of adaptations have been made since, combining variations from the North and South. The Vietnamese language is now spoken by approximately 85 million people, in Vietnam, by and in migrant communities in Australia, Europe, North America and Japan.
Fig.47, A typical Vietnamese street vendor
Fig. 49, Chinese influences are still evident everywhere in the city: from simple shop signs to religious writings in pagodas and temples. Jade Pagoda
SOCIAL FACTORS Generally, the Vietnamese people are kind-natured and enjoy a good joke. They are, however, proud and sometimes stubborn. Traditionally their lifestyle is centred around respect for family, tradition and the state. There are 54 different ethnic groups in Vietnam. There The Viet (Kinh) make up the majority, but approximately 8 million people, living mostly in tribes in the mountains, form the minority groups. Some of the tribes dress in elaborate costumes, made by techniques passed on through generations. The The population in Ho Chi Minh City is greater than in any other place in Vietnam, as many choose to migrate to there for a better education or to find work. According to the 2009 census, of the 47,682,326 employed members of the population, 3,676,206 of those live in Ho Chi Minh City, more than in Ha Noi. The The education level in Ho Chi Minh City is high, with 35% of the population enrolling at college and university. The only areas where this statistic is greater are Da Nang, and the capital, Ha Noi. . According to the 2009 census, 7.8% of people in According Vietnam have a disability, although more recent data suggests that disability affects more than 15% of the population. The majority of that percentage live in rural areas, which often means the level of eduction available is poor and career opportunities are therefore limited.
Data according to 2009 census
The The Vietnamese population is getting older at the highest rate ever, since the lifespan is increasing and the rate of both births and deaths has reduced. Family sizes are also lower than in previous decades which relates to the increased use of machinery and the fact that less people are required for some jobs, particularly in agriculture. This has allowed women to become more This successful in business. Extended families are important to the Vietnamese and they may come together to celebrate, or to support each other in troubled times. Generations of family members often live together under one roof. Fig. 50,
Fig. 51, A man rests in the shade on his motorbike
Fig.52, End of the school day in HCMC
Fig.53, Lunch time
Fig.54, Bikes are less and less popular.
Fig.55, It’s a tradition for a bride to take pictures in the city cntre in Fig.56, Men can often be seen playing odd boardgames or cards her wedding gown. on the pavement
Fig.57, Many people travelling from elswhere sleep on the streets
Fig.58, They are willing to take all kinds of jobs to make more money before New Year’s
Fig.59, Most of them sell from their bikes and mopeds
ENTERTAINMENT Music With influences from China, Korea, Mongolia and With Japan, as well as from many the happenings throughout history, traditional Vietnamese music has become unique and diverse. Many instruments and a range of genres were created to suit different purposes, from war and work, to celebrations. Traditional dances, sometimes involving involving props, such as the conical hat, are performed at ceremonies and festivals, and tend to vary between regions. Some traditional folk songs are sung a cappella, and many have been adapted by the Commnist Party in order to form marching songs. The contemporary music scene in Vietnam has grown since the war with America and features Pop, Pop Ballads, R&B, Rock and Hip Hop. Western music is also popular. Many Many venues in the cities offer live music, and a variety of genres can be found performing at restaurants and bars. In Ho Chi Minh City, dance music is played in most night clubs, with DJs from around the world.
Fig.63, Traditional Vietnamese musician figures
Theatre and Cinema Theatre Theatre was at one time strictly controlled by the communist rule but today the arts are much less suppressed. Many groups now perform for profit across the country at venues such as the Art Deco style, Saigon Opera House.
Fig.67, AO Show Saigon, dance and acrobatics representing Vietnamese culture
In recent times, a number of Vietnamese In film-makers have made a name for themselves internationally, but most of Vietnam’s earlier cinematography was based around propaganda. The war with America has inspired various plots of films in Vietnam and around the world.
Fig.68, Traditional Stilt Housing
Fig.69, Contemporary Architecture is influenced by French Colonial and Chinese fashions
Fig.70, A dragon dance performance at a New Year’s festival. Image courtesy Aleksandra Traykova
Fig.71, Fighting roosters kept in bamboo cages
RELIGION AND BELIEFS
Fig. 76,Buddhist
Fig. 77
Fig.78, BuddhistPagoda,
Fig.79, Praying girl. Image Courtesy Aleksandra Traykova
New  Year’s  Celebrations
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All these  religions  blend  and  mix  together  as  All  they  have  been  influenced  by  foreigners  and  arent  in  their  original  form.  Marks  of  all  of  them  can  be  noticed  in  the  everyday  life  of  the  Viet- namese  no  matter  of  their  religion.  Other  reli- gions,  like  christianity  and  islam  have  also  been  introdiced  and  made  their  contribution  to  the  blend.
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The  Vietnamese  New  Year  (Tet)  is  a  spiritual  cel- ebration.  It  is  noted  in  on  of  the  first  seven  days  of  the  Lunar  Calendar,  which  usually  falls  at  the  end  of  January  or  the  beginning  of  February.  It  is  the  biggest  vietnamese  festival  as  it  celebrates  purity  and  renewal.  Apricot  and  peach  flowers  and  buds  are  used  as  decoration  -  symbols  of  the  new  beginning.  Another  traditional  feature  f  the the  holiday  is  presenting  the  ancestors’  altar  with  fruits  and  flowers,  symbolizing  the  prayer  for  new  crops  and  the  five  elements:  metal,  water,  wood,  fire  and  earth. With  the  industrialisation  and  development  of  Vietnam,  as  well  as  the  bigger  focus  on  educa- tion,  more  and  more  Vietnamese  define  them- selves  as  atheists.  According  to  the  Global  Index  of  Religiosity  and  Atheism,  the  difference  be- tween  the  percentage  of  people  who  considered  themselves  religious  in  2005  was  23%  bigger  than  in  2012.
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VIETNAMESE CUISINE Food One can easily call Vietnamese cuisine one of“Asia’s greatest culinary” secrets. It is all about fresh One ingredients and balance of flavours. It is to Chinese food, particularly in the North. That is evident even in the use of chopsticks, typical for their rivals. Rather than having separate courses, the Vietnamese serve everything at once, usually placeing the dishes in the centre of the table. This way each person, takes food to eat over a small bowl, which is initially served empty. Some dishes, most often spring rolls are made on the table, so everyone can “mix and match” their own filling and therfore therfore are eaten with hands, rather than chopsitcs. Rice is served in a separate bowl and transfered to with a big metal spoon to everyone’s smaller bowl. Rice. Vietnam produces approximately 36 million tonnes of it each year, which ranks it in top ten produers of rice in the world. Therefore, it is a popular dish on its own, or as an ingredient for production of noodles and making of variety of desserts. The traditional dish, Pho, a noodle soup with beef, is often eaten for breakfast, lunch and dinner for a couple of reasons: Vietnamese use only fresh ingredients, so once it’s old the Pho will be unattractive for their taste, at the same time they cannot afford wasting food and last but not least it takes very long to cook so they make a lot of it at a time. Another Another typical feature for the Vietnamese cuisine is seafood. With a long coast and a network of rivers, fresh fish and shellfish are used in a variety of dishes. These are often spicy, garnished with fish sauce, which is usually found on the tables as it is as popular as salt and pepper. The “ketchup” of Vietnam is for cooking throughout the country, apart from some areas in the North where soy sauce is more common due to the Chinese influence. The The French influence on cuisine is obvious. One can easily find numeral bakeries around Ho Chi Minh, selling fresh croissants and various other pastries. Baguettes are also popular but are adapted to suit local ingredients. That unusual “fast-food” can be purchased from vendors, with Vietnamese style fillings. Whilst Whilst cuisine from almost anywhere in the world can be found in Ho Chi Minh City, traditional Vietnamese food is available on almost every street, and is often being prepared by vendors in the street. Those odd one-man restaurants add to the atmosphere of the place, with a wide selection for sale until the small hours.
Fig.80,Spring rolls with noodles,seafood and fresh vegetables
Fig. 81, Coconut sweets fresh from the coconut farm
Fig.83, A woman serving Pho on Le Thanh Ton
Fig. 84, Fresh frut is a major part of the traditional Vietnamese diet Fig. 85, “Curiouser and curiouser” bamboo rice
Fig.86,Tous Les Jours, a Korean-based bakery chain popular in Asia
Fig. 87, Vietnam offers variety of desserts, from western apple pie, to green-tea doughnuts
Fig. 82, Fresh fish for spring rolls
Fig. 88, The hot climate and the Chinese influence have contributed to a wide variety of ice creams an sorbets.
Fig. 89, Ice coffee
Fig. 90, Coconut milk is available everywhere
Fig. 91, Saigon beer
DRINKS Fresh coconuts can be purchased from vendors in the street and at most restaurants. They are served with a straw to drink the milk, and sometimes a spoon for the flesh. The The most common drink in Vietnam is Tea which tends to be consumed before and after a meal. Green tea is most popular but black tea can also be found in most cities. Iced tea is also a common beverage. The coffee culture was introduced to Vietnam in The the 19th Century by French colonists, and today the country is among the top exporters of coffee in the world. In Vietnam, hot coffee tends to be enjoyed in the morning, whereas iced coffee is preferred later in the day when it is hotter. A Vietnamese-style coffee tends to be made with condensed milk, rather than fresh milk or cream, condensed which balances its sweet flavour with the bitterness of the coffee. Cà phê Chồn, or ‘Weasel Coffee’, can also be found at most markets in Vietnam, including Ben Thanh market in Ho Chi Minh City. The coffee is said to be ‘smooth, mellow, and rather sweet’, and is popular with tourists. In Vietnam the wine selection tends to be fairly limited however there is a wide variety of regional and local beers. The European influence is evident in the style of many microbreweries, a number of which can be found in Ho Chi Minh City.
Fig.92, Globalisation. Even the Gods and Ancestors’ spirits seem to enjoy a bit of Coca Cola and Heineken before New Year’s.
Fig.93, Coconuts, Image Courtesy Lyubomira Popova
Western Influence and Food Chains Fig.94, Four-storey high Burger King
Fig. 95, Two-storey KFC
It It has been a struggle for food chains to find their way in Asia. Today, it is far from difficult to find a Starbucks in Ho Chi Minh. However, the western trends have been boycoted until recently and are still frowned upon mostly for political reasons. However, many locals are afraid they might loose Howeve their identity and what is even worse lose their small local business to big copanies like McDonald’s and KFC. The The well-known chain stores are mostly popular among tourists though, since they are among the few who can afford them which in a way justifies keeping them.
Fig. 96, Starbucks Opening
Furthermore, most chains have adapted their menues to the local cuisine, so one can have rice in Pizza Hutt and Green Tea Iced Latte.
Fig.97, Yet, no matter how big the global influence is, all signs of Western culture are still considered to be totems of something new and eccentric.
TRADITIONAL CLOTHING AND FASHION TRENDS
Royal regulations used to require men and women to wear a cos- Royal tume usually in a combination of white, black and brown. Yellow was worn only by the royality. Red, green and blue was dedicated to offi- cials. Unfortunately, due to different influences by foreign fashion, tradi- tional Vietnamese clothing have been changed or even lost. Currently the traditinal clothing is Ao dai, which first appeared in 1744. However, it has been changed multiple times until it shaped to its current look. It currently includes long, wide trousers and a knee- lenght gown which is buttoned at the side and is similar both for men and women. It is usually made out of silk, so it will keep the people from the sun but still be apropriate for the hot climate. Its coloring is determines by age, gender and the marital status. It is made indi vidually to every customer’s shape. so free movement wont be dis- rupted. Ao dai became extremely popular in the nineties as it became the custom clothing of female staff and students. The conical hats (Non La), worn by the locals seem to be one of the most iconic of pieces of traditional clothing. They originate from the northern and central parts of Vetnam where most of the material needed for them is grown and are associated with the rain-shielding goddess who was the first to wear one. There are more than 50 types of hats, according to the gender, age, wealth, religion, job title and so on. Depending on those characteristics, hats could be deco- rated rated with silk. First made in the 13th century, they were worn by men only up until the 20th century. Nowadays, the conical hats are still an everyday piece of clothing for most of the locals. To respond to the newer needs of the Vietnamese, some of the hats now include a facemask which is another local fashion.
Fig. 98
Facemasks have become a trend in Vietnam, mostly in women’s clothing. They contain a carbon filter to help clean the highly poluted air. Also, the facemasks are part of a tan-prevention “kit” which in- cludes their bike helmet or a cone hat, a jacket and elbow-length gloves. Those necessities have become so popular that have turned into fashion accessories and come in all types of colours, prints and decorations.
Fig. 99, Nowadays, cone hats are typical for the lower classes of society
Fig.100, Face Masks in different colors and patterns are sold at the market
Fig.101, Ao Dai
APPENDIX I - DEVELOPMENT OF HO CHI MINH CITY
Plan de la Ville de Saigon 1790
Plan de La Ville de Saigon 1873
Saigon  1881
Plan De Saigon 1898
Plan De La Ville De Saigon (Cochinchine) 1896
Saigon  1940
Saigon Third Edition 1946
Plan de Saigon 1947
Saigon  1954
Plan de Saigon-Cholon 1955
Map of Saigon 1961
Saigon, Vietnam 1963
Saigon Cholon 1966
Map of Saigon 1968
Map of Saigon 1984
APPENDIX II - PERSONAL REFLECTIONS
“One of the most exciting and different experi- ences for me was the celebrations leading up to the Chinese new year. The amount the city changed within such a short space of time to completely disappear again was miraculous. It was so fascinating just wondering round the festi- val areas and seeing the copious amounts of flowers. Another big thing for me in Vietnam was the food. I really enjoyed just trying anything dif- ferent that you wouldn’t be able to get back home, everything was so tasty however I would not recommend the deep fried scorpion. The trip really opened my eyes to other cultures and cus- toms and I feel I am better for it”
- Rachel Glover
“Cars and mopeds moving fast in every direction, confusing, detached. All seem to accelerate, igno- rant, horns sounding. Back on the pavement, crisscross movements around street vendors, puddles, empty bowls of noodles, vegetables and a chicken in a basket. Suddenly, a woman throws water from a bucket. “Madam, madam!”, another woman’s voice, faintly, in the distance. Haggling, woman the heat, a lost tourist, shakingly consulting a ripped map. Why, when the North Star of Saigon is right there, tall, proud, shining through polluted air? A statement. Then, looking down at this madness again, a hint of hope - quiet, from under a conical hat: a smile....”
- Ecaterina Stefanescu
“I think one of the biggest culture shocks for me was the lunar New Year, I’m so used to New Year in Britain just being an extension of Christmas that I didn’t realize how important it was to other cultures. I feel that the New Year celebrations changed a lot about how the city felt. The whole city seemed to become so much busier and more vibrant. I felt like there was an explosion of colour and activity just before the New Year, and then it completely died away overnight. This was odd as there had been such a build up towards the event.” - Emma Newport
“Vietnam's adventure took place on January 6, 2014. Every step we were taking in the country's sidewalks was witnessing the unique culture of Vietnam and it is for this reason that we were challenged to discover as many of the plethora sides of the country as we could. What attracted our attention most was the chaotic traffic in Viet- nam's roads since there are more than 100000 motorbikes moving across the country. The trip to Vietnam offered us the chance to visit a number of vital and of historical importance buildings. Some of these buildings were the Bitexco Financial tower;; the second tallest building in Vietnam and the War Museum. The War Museum visit was a shocking experience since we had the ability to understand the historical aspects of the war through both the pictures that were decorating the museum's walls and also the tunnels where vic- tims were hiding. Nonetheless, a different, fancy trip took place at the Mekong Delta where we trav- elled by small boats through the Delta River. Our trip ended with good traditional food and music. Vietnam's adventure lasted until January 31, 2014. It was a unique experience which we will never forget.” - Sonia Anastasiadou, Constantinos Nioulicos, George Christodoulou
|For me the most interesting part of the experi- ence was gaining an understanding of the lifestyle of the Vietnamese people. Some of the differ- ences were quite shocking and at times I felt a certain sadness. Despite this I found the atmo- sphere in Ho Chi Minh City to be vibrant and excit- ing. I enjoyed the bustling markets and the street food culture, and found the friendly, helpful atti- tudes of the locals inspiring.| - Charlotte Coy
“The hooting cars, the crazy roads, the inspi- ration of a generation that strives for commu- nity development, the fresh fruit, the incense clouds, the mystic culture and ancient history, simply food, and most of all the warm wel- come of the Vietnamese people... một kinh nghiệm đáng kinh ngạc! (an incredible experi ence).” - Rahul Hirani
"Saigon has invited us into a wonderful dis- covery journey of cultural experiences. The city with its unique patterns and townscape portraits a special architectural language, a vocabulary of contrasts and dualities created an experience, which has been amazing - a real discovery adventure." - Catalina Elena “Saigon (HCMC), Vietnam “Stepping out of the airport into the smog filled Saigon, also known as Ho Chi Mihn city, is a vi- Saigon, also known as Ho Chi Mihn cit humid air I wondered what Vietnam had to offer, brant place, which almost never sleeps. Exiting however after 25 packed days I have begun to re- the airport one can sense the energy which the spect and admire the cultural difference. The main city possess: from the people to the consistent street round Ho Chi Minh are hectic and the spa- movement of mopeds along the road which as a cial arrangement slightly clumsy with people foreigner would make you think twice before spread out onto the street and mopeds coming making an attempt to cross the road. It’s scary at from all directions. The spaces that capture the first but after a while you get used to it and it be- first but after a while you get used to it and it be heart of Vietnam are in the small back streets comes fun. There are lots of places to visit in where communities gather like in a typical Viet- Saigon: the zoo, various museums, and flam- namese village. While investigating one alleyway boyant shopping malls. All this offers other activ- we were invited into a woman's home where she ity besides shopping, as it is an artistic place. talked about the culture of the area showing just Everywhere you go you experience the richness how friendly and inviting the people of Vietnam of the architectural and artistic side of this city are.” Visit Vietnam, visit Saigon - you'd love it.” - Lucy Tindall
- Lowis-Jay
“Never silent and never asleep this city is full of movement, of light and of glee. We see the sparkle, the luxury, but there is also this great poverty. Like in my dreams, a cluster of cultures can be seen and all is colourful, all looks unique. New meets the old and compliments it, and even though the city presents this picture of complete chaos and noise, there is also this feeling of peace and poise.”
“Ho Chi Minh City is a city of contrasts and ex- tremes. From the moment we got out from the air- port we could observe a clash of cultures, espe- cially in the architecture of the city. There were big shopping centres, covered with colourful, flashy billboards of American companies next to grey communist blocks of flats. It seemed to be a total chaos, in traffic, in architectural response to the context, even in obeying the law but by the end of the trip I got to understand that the city created its own idea of order which kept everything working.”
- Aleksandra Traykova
- Laurentiu Popa
“My first impression of “My first impression of Vietnam over the first few days was a country surrounded by organized chaos, from the irregularity of the architectural style and typology, to the spider webs of cables to the unwritten traffic laws attempting to bring order to anarchy. But after being submerged in the heart of Saigon and being given the chance to experience the city for a month, I now see a rapidly developing country driven by a richly diverse culture and willing nation working hard in the knowledge of their his- tory but choosing to move forward and build a new future in despite.” - James Blundall
“After two days of adopting new strategies for crossing the road and eating, I was able to stand back and reflect upon my surroundings, meanwhile getting to grips with the prospect of studying such a diverse and seemingly hectic environment. How- ever, what had at first seemed frantic soon turned out simply to be an alternative way of life that an unaccustomed observer could easily misread as not being the organized chaos it in fact is.”
“The trip we took really made an impact on my view of South-East Asia. The cul- ture shock that struck me the first couple of days transformed into a desire to know and explore the vivid new world that Viet- nam offered. At the end we were willing to stay there permanently, engulfed in the culture.”
- Danny Higham
- Atanas Kunev
Wonder and marvel gripped me as I settled slowly into the city. From thousands of mopeds to culi- nary delights the city breaths with sensory excite- ment. Whilst the culture of security is lacking in the vast shopping market for pickpockets, locals welcomed me with passion and warmth. In fact, hostility thrives in a country whose scarred history would suggest otherwise. Yet like a phoenix rising from the ashes, the strength of the city's culture is unceasing. Flowers for new year's line every street, markets flourish with local produce and people smile with the knowledge that they live with an eye on the past and a mind on the future. - Mark Mayhew
“Even though the poverty is so high in the city, people can definitely transmit the feeling of happi- ness and love. The journey looked as a vision of a new world, a different one, full of flavor, joy, color, acknowledgement, wishes, teachings which made you feel various emotions that you haven’t experienced before.” - Elena Alexandra Ionescu
“During my stay in HCMC, Vietnam I had a chance to spend some time with the local stu- dents of architecture from third and fifth year. Thanks to our Vietnamese friends we had chance to get to know many unknown for the normal visi- tor places. Engaging with their culture and tradi- tions was rather interesting. For instance, we went to visit a bamboo forest, an hour drive away from the city. I had the chance to meet the owner of the forest who happened to be a lovely lady, a botanical professor. She was classifying the con- struction type bamboo and we had the chance to learn about the future of bamboo as construction material. I am so grateful for my time in Vietnam. I will definitely go back again.” - Hjulia Nejdetova
Vietnam is a country of five senses: sight, smell, hearing, taste and touch. You get to see a dif- ferent view of the world;; the people affected by the war cooking and eating on the roads. You get to see extraordinary landscapes and an ar- chitectural contrast as the country is developing really fast. The people cooking on the streets, gave us the opportunity to explore the sense of smell as we got to smell each food as they were preparing it, and not only taste it. Adding to this, the first thing you will notice as you walk in the city is the noise of motorbikes’ horn;; hearing sense. - Rafaelia
”My experience in Ho Chi Minh City was amazing. At first, I was a bit disappointed by seeing how people live, work and eat. The poverty is really high even in the city so people are eating on the street, on the pavement or cooking on the ground not taking into account the high risk which they are exposed to. After a while I started to under- stand them, even the habit of eating on the street seems appropriate now .It was a way of gathering and communication. They were happy, even though some of them live from one day to another, even though they have no work or they sleep out- side because they don’t have a roof above their heads. There were a few teachings that we have to learn from them. The whole journey was a lesson and it gave me a new perspective over life.” - Daiana Andreea Ionescu “The journey revealed an exciting, completely new experience regarding architecture as well as life. As a whole, I could describe Ho Chi Minh as an organised congestion. The never ending traffic flow and crowded walkways are turning the city into an energetic place which is being kept alive by the constantly warm temperature throughout the yea the year. This feeling is maintained through the ar- chitecture as well – tall and narrow buildings close to the street enhance the perception over the bustle around. Despite the busy lifestyle, the Viet- namese people seem to be constantly happy and never tired. Even during the night time the streets, terraces and parks are full of people, leaving the impression of a city that never sleeps.” - Marian-Razvan Stancescu “Before arriving in Vietnam, being a country with en- tirely different culture and traditions, I expected a busy environment with a unique charm, climate and people’s way of life. The intense traffic and the atti- tude of the people were the first things that I en- countered in Ho Chi Minh. The authenticity of the surroundings and the culture was what gave this vastly developing metropolis its unique spirit - people eating on the street, taking a break on their motopeds or just recklessly crossing the road with their portable shops on the back of their rides. I got to know different people, food, architecture and at- mosphere. Eastern culture is very diverse and I think familiarizing myself with it dramatically broad ened my horizons and will be a massive inspiration for my future projects, work, attitude and life.” - Lubomira Popova
“I have visited HCMC several times over the past 10 years and every visit reveals something new – not only in terms of new buildings, but also in terms of new or fresh insights into the culture of this fascinating city and country. During our recent visit, in particular, I have become more aware of the fragile condition of much of the city’s French ‘heritage’ in terms of its built infrastructure and the incipient erosion of pe- destrian space at the expense of the ubiquitous motor scooter. The enthusiasm for ‘modern’ development is un- derstandable, but needs to be tempered with more understanding and respect for the past – even if that past is tainted by ‘colonial’ associa- tions.” - Jon Bush
“During four-week field trip to Ho Chi Minh city in Vietnam in January 2014, 43 students on the Ar- chitecture (International) BA (Hons) course and 12 MArch II students at the University of Hudder- sfield carried out urban study in this exciting city. The long history and diverse cultures in the city inspired us to challenge what we took for granted in a familiar context and to explore the similari- ties and differences in an interactive built envi- ronment. The trip has enriched our architectural language.” - Yun Gao
“I love this place;; the vibrancy, action, aliveness, colour, culinary delights, history, madness and the humour makes for a rich culture to embrace. I was lucky enough to visit Vietnam and Ho Chi Minh City many years ago, and 20 years on it is very "Same, Same, but Different!". Same are the busy chaotic streets, Different is the replace- ment of bicycles with motorbikes and scooters. In another 20 years I hope to see these being electric and the current air pollution issues a thing of the past. I also hope it remains "Same, Same, but Different!". - Hilary Chadwick
Image courtesy Cristian Tudose
In the end of this book, we would like to express our gratitude for the help and hospitality of the staff and fellow students from the Ho Chi Minh University of Architecture. Cảm ơn!
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Appendix I .List of Figures: Saigoneer (2013). Saigon 1881. Retrieved from http://saigoneer.com/saigon-infrastructure/1215-this-is-what-saigon-looked-like-in-1881 Rick Curia. (2012). Plan De Saigon 1898. Retrieved from http://www.flickr.com/photos/ricks_pic_picks/7006106960/sizes/l/ Manhhai. (2013). Plan De La Ville De Saigon (Cochinchine) 1896. Retrieved from http://www.flickr.com/photos/13476480@N07/7360832878/in/set- 72157638432452975 Manhhai. (2011). Saigon 1940. Retrieved from http://www.flickr.com/photos/13476480@N07/5835674560/in/set-72157638432452975 Manhhai. (2013). Saigon Third Edition 1946. Retrieved from http://www.flickr.com/photos/13476480@N07/11239224256/in/set-72157638432452975 Manhhai. (2010). Plan de Saigon 1947. Retrieved from http://www.flickr.com/photos/13476480@N07/4477406555/in/set-72157638432452975 Manhhai. (2009). Saigon 1954. Retrieved from http://www.flickr.com/photos/13476480@N07/4137994102/in/set-72157638432452975 Manhhai. (2013). Plan de Saigon-Cholon 1955. Retrieved from http://www.flickr.com/photos/13476480@N07/11299052123/in/set- 72157638432452975 Manhhai. (2013). Map of Saigon 1961. Retrieved from http://www.flickr.com/photos/13476480@N07/4829526826/ Manhhai. (2013). Saigon, Vietnam 1963. Retrieved from http://www.flickr.com/photos/13476480@N07/11308192376/in/set-72157638432452975 Manhhai. (2010). Saigon Cholon 1966. Retrieved from http://www.flickr.com/photos/13476480@N07/4748250044/in/set-72157625462709949 Manhhai. (2013). Map of Saigon 1968. Retrieved from http://www.flickr.com/photos/13476480@N07/11381975893/in/set-72157639067315323 Manhhai. (2013). Map of Saigon 1984. Retrieved from http://www.flickr.com/photos/13476480@N07/9257170715/in/set-72157638432452975 Hung, D. (2013) Saigon, traces of the old days. Vietnam: Lao Dong Publishing House. Hung, D. (2013) Saigon, traces of the old days. HCMC. (2014). Ho chi Minh City Vietnam. Retrieved from http://www.hcmc.com/streets/calmette
WORK HAS BEEN COMPILED BY: ALEKSANDRA TRAYKOVA CHARLOTTE COY LYUBOMIRA POPOVA RUZHA SIRMANOVA