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October.07 w w w. p a t a g o n i a b l a c k s h e e p . c o m
Road scholar by Thomas S Daly
N a lg e n e B ot t l e s If you’re not sure what a Nalgene bottle is, just find yourself a Yank; they will probably have one. These Lexan bottles are quickly becoming industry standard for trekkers and climbers. They are bullet proof, won´t leak and are guaranteed for life. The little bottles are a must while trekking. The large mouth type makes for easier filling at a water source, and for harvesting snow in an alpine environment, but it’s a little more difficult to drink out of while walking. Here are a few good tricks... 1. While making your nightly boil for dinner on the trail, boil an extra liter to make your Nalgene a great hot water bottle for your sleeping bag. This will raise the average temperature of your bag, and will do wonders for sore trekking feet. Throw your wet socks or gloves down there with the hot water bottle and it will dry everything like an oven in your sleeping bag. 2. Want eggs on the trail? Break a few eggs into a Nalgene for omelettes on that first morning out. This is a mess-free way of creating a breakfast upgrade. 3. Using a large mouth Nalgene to carry and protect dry and powdered goods is another great use. Whether it’s oatmeal or powdered soup mix for the long haul, a Nalgene can give you a hard, waterproof case.
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Daily buses to Torres del Paine Navigation tour Glacier Balmeceda & Serrano Full day tours of Torres del Paine Calafate, Perito Moreno Orsono, Pto Montt, Santiago Private trips
Arturo Prat 258 local A Puerto Natales, Chile 061-412824 busesjb@hotmail.com
As you pass from street to street, be it in Puerto Natales or Punta Arenas, navigating with your trusty street-map, do you ever wonder why most of the street names are surnames and who these people actually are? Well, names of past Chilean Presidents have provided some, but as well as these guys they also honour people and places with great significance in their historic development. Here are a few principal street names from Puerto Natales. . . LADRILLEROS Juan Ladrilleros was a Spanish sailor who in 1557 was sent by the Spanish government to find a sea exit from the Magellan Straits, west to the Pacific. Due to lack of food, energy and the loss of many men he decided that the voyage into the body of water that surrounds Puerto Natales would be their last hope in reaching their goal; hence the name Ultima Esperanza (Last Hope). Incidentally the Spanish government kept this blunder a secret for over 300 years! O´HIGGINS The Liberator Bernardo O´Higgins together with Jose de San Martin crossed from Argentina with a Chile-Argentine army and finally drove out the Spanish. He restored Chile´s independence and became Chile´s first President in 1818. BLANCO ENCALADA The first Commander of the Chilean Navy, Manuel Blanco Encalada was born in Buenos Aires (1790), but later chose the land of his Chilean mother as his home. A great political figure who was President of the Republic for a mere two months in 1826.
BULNES Manuel Bulnes, His military victory over the Bolivian-Peruvian confederation in 1839, secured his personal victory of becoming President of the Republic (1841-1851). ARTURO PRATT A valiant naval captain who died at the Battle of Iquique (1879), when he boarded a Peruvian Ironclad ship (THE HUASCAR), accompanied by only one sergeant. ESMERALDA The name of Capt Arturo Pratt´s ship in the Battle of Iquique. TOMAS ROGERS Juan Tomas Rogers, an English Captain serving in the Chilean Navy, was the first visitor to arrive at Perito Moreno Glaciar. On arrival he named it Francisco Gomaz in honour of the expedition patron. Many years later the Argentineans renamed it in honour of Perito Francisco P. Moreno, an Argentine hydrographer. BAQUEDANO General Manuel Baquedano, defeated Peru at the Battle of Los Angeles (March 1880), captured Arica (May 1880), and later captured Lima (Jan 1881). CHORRILLOS The site of the first battle in the wave to take Lima, Peru (Jan 1881). BALMACEDA José Balmaceda, leader of a liberal anticlerical group prevented Argentina entering the war of the Pacific in 1878. As President of the Republic (1886-91), he introduced a wide reform program which led to civil war. He later fled to Argentina where he committed suicide.
What & Where is Cabo Froward? The Strait of Magellan, the channel, scene of countless shipwrecks, the oldest cemetery in Patagonia, historical bays and we have never seen anyone else on the trail. The bottom of Africa and the bottom of Australia are easy to find. They’re just spots on a map that you drive your car to, get out, take a photo next to the sign and drive off. Not the case for the bottom point of South America. This journey is only for those ready to get completely away from the masses and willing to put themselves in a place where the words ‘self reliance’ cannot be taken lightly. Be prepared for an agonizingly rough trail, relentless wind and two neck-high river crossings carrying your pack over your head. There is no going back, mi amigo. The trek begins where the dirt road ends. Old deep forests of Nothofagus: huge coigues that seem never before seen or touched. The views are incredible, not only the Strait itself, but the mountains surrounding it. Mt. Sarmiento is impressive, reaching more than 7,000 feet after rising out of the sea. And then there is the Darwin Range, part of Alberto de Agostini National Park. There is also a good chance of being saturated at least once a day. The hike covers sand, rainforest and rock, plus two large river crossings and multiple small ones.The
trail is not always clearly marked. Finding a reliable map is next to impossible. Trails are only marked by the few that try their luck reaching the bottom of the continent. This is what will be a section of the Sendero de Chile project, which aims to create roads and paths and ferries that span the length of Chile, eliminating the need to cross into Argentina. This project is expected to be completed in 2010. The final goal is to reach the crucifix that overlooks the end of the American continent. The view from the lookout provides a true sense of history. At that moment you realize where in the world you are. This trek is not for everyone. There is no help, or contact with the world for days in any direction.The weather can be equally beautiful and unforgiving. This completely self supported trip can be called nothing less then extreme trekking. The trek is only really possible January - March. Other times of the year you will possibly run into river problems. Deep winter makes for frozen conditions. This route boasts two large, cold, strip down and hold your pack over your head river crossings. If you have successfully trekked and camped the Torres del Paine ‘W’ circuit, then you might be ready for Cabo Froward. This trek is about the location itself, the bottom of the continent and the history. Very few trekkers have ever been to Cabo Froward.
EBERHARD Captain Hermann Eberhard was an explorer and first settler of the Province of Ultima Esperanza. He named the hill that overlooks Puerto Natales after his first daughter, DOROTEA; And from his second daughter Sofia, he named Lago SOFIA. In 1892 was it was actually one of his workers who discovered the famous Milodon Cave, where remains of prehistoric animals were found including sabertoothed tigres, camels, deer and of course the Milodon. Today the Eberhard family still live on their estancia at Puerto Consuelo. KRUGER Ricardo Kruger was a government official posted at Puerto Consuelo when the Argentinian warship (The Azopardo) arrived in 1896 to claim the area in the name of Argentina. Kruger declined to lower the Chilean flag and the Argentineans left without fuss. Due to this event the Chilean government populated Puerto Pratt as a warning station for future attempts by the Argentine navy. PILOTO PARDO Captain Luis Pardo was a sailor who risked his life, and those of his men to rescue the 22 castaways from the ENDURANCE (Shackleton Expedition 1915-16). His tugboat “The Yelcho”, had no double hull, no heating, no electric light and no radio. Despite the courageous acts of this man and his crew, Shackleton mentioned Pardo´s name only once in his 386 page book, in the preface! PEDRO MONTT Son of the President Manuel Montt Towers. He himself became President of the Republic between 1906-1910.