Black Sheep March 06 by Rustyn Mesdag

FREE

Black Volume 1 • Issue 4 • March 2006 • blacksheepchile@gmail.com • cover image by Diego Araya C.

The

Puerto

Sheep

Natales

Organizer

The longest trek in the world

Torres del Paine

Questions & Answers

The big Patagonian Enviromental Issue ACCOMMODATION RESTAURANTS GUIDES CULTURE MAPS TRAVEL

ADVENTURE

RECYCLE THIS PAPER - PASS IT ON!

Welcome to Puerto Natales, Patagonia de Chile

NOTES

Contents Letter from the Editor Rustyn’s Soapbox

Travellers Q&A’s

Who is ENVIU?

First aid Longest trek in the world

6 7

Patagonia Five Maté, maté man Garbage beaches Letters My Environment

8 9 10 11 12 13

Everyone’s in the same boat What’s up with these guys?

Who’s up for a walk?

Leave No Trace Puerto. Bories Patagonia Foundation Getting the ball rolling

Volunteer in Patagonia

Shorts

Live, work and play in TdP Who loves short shorts?

Road Scholar

Street names from the past

Kooch

Classifieds

Climbing permits

City map

Climbing in Torres del Paine?

Published by Southern Cross Ltda. Black Sheep • The Puerto Natales Organizer Puerto Natales, Patagonia, Chile blacksheepchile@gmail.com ph +56•61•412239 Production Editor • Design: Rustyn ‘Matthias’ Mesdag Business Director • Advertising Manager: Pilar Irribarra Staff Reporter • Photographer • Distribution: Hermann Klassen Assistant Editor • Sarah Rutter The Black Sheep is an independently and locally owned rag, inspired by life in Puerto Natales, Chile. The eyes and ears of Patagonia. A big, warm, woolly thanks go out to all the black sheep and the bear who helped make this paper possible.

____________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________ ____________________________________________________________________

Letter from the editor by Rustyn Mesdag Politics. Not my strong suit. Never has been. I have the basics down

and I have a couple of chosen causes that I believe in, but for the most part, I stay out of those dinner conversations. Politics comes up a lot

living in a place with so many nationalities and I just keep my mouth

shut. I’ve had my days of thinking that I knew what was going on, but I

know now that I don’t. You put an Israeli, a German, a South African, an American and Brazilian at

a table with some beer, and start talking politics....it can get heated. Politics seems to bring out some bizarre traits in people. So I’m not going to use this small space of newsprint and pretend to have

some kind of insight or words of political wisdom. I would make

a very real point, and someone would have a very real reason why I was full of very real shit. Aaaahhhh... the wonders of perceived reality.

But, I just witnessed something that I thought was amazing.

A woman running for and winning the presidency. Not just any

woman mind you, but a single mom, agnostic, socialist, educated doctor, child of a dictatorship -woman pesident! Hey now, don’t

disregard my amazment - coming from the land of the Bush (ass) this is a big deal. Back in the States they always fed us full of

this “...anyone can be president” shite. (I think Abe Lincoln was the last US president that wasn’t given a credit check before entering the election.) Seeing the

process here was great. The day of the final election, I saw people

celebrating. I have never seen a celebration after an election.

People were gathering, yelling, honking their horns, waving flags, I had a good day that day. I felt great. It gave me the same feeling I used to get as a kid when I still acually believed there was a

Cover photo by Diego Araya C.

chance I could be president. It gave me some hope. I’m sure there are countless viewpoints of the election and of a woman presi-

www.wildpatagonia.cl

dent. Being in charge of such a macho-man driven country cant be easy. I’m not going pretend to know all the angles.

l blacksheepchile@gmail.com

I’ll tell you this though, That day was a day I will never forget. It

felt historical. I’m sure that there are other travelers out there, who also witnessed this, and feel

the same way. We are all lucky to have seen it. We have officially seen the mold break before our eyes. Here’s to the Chile’s newest Black Sheep!

Torres del Paine travellers ‘Q&A’s

How far is it to the park from here? From Natales, by bus, it takes about 2 - 2.5 hrs.

What time do the buses leave in the morning? Most of the buses pick-up between 7 - 8am.

Can the buses to the park pick me up from my hostel? Some do, it depends if your hostel is friendly with the bus company.

How can I book a refugio? You need to get in contact with Vertice, Pathgone, Fantastico Sur and/or Andescape.

How much does camping cost in the park? Camping costs 3.500 pesos per person, not per tent, at the privately run sites. The CONAF sites are free.

So, I pay an entrance fee AND pay to camp? Yep, and don’t forget your bus ticket, mini shuttle or catamaran, as well - all in Pesos only.

Which campsites are free? Los Guardas, Italiano, Británico, Japones, Camp Las Torres, Los Perros, Paso, Zappata, Pingo and Las Carretas.

At what time do the stores open in the morning? Don’t count on the stores being open before 9:30am, even then…

What about mid day? Between 12 and 3 you might as well nap, too.

Where can I buy food for the park? There are three bigger supermarkets in town, the Magno located one block south from the Santiago Santander bank. The Don Bosco and Super Mix are both on the main streets of Baquedano and Bulnes.

How do I contact the park’s Search and Rescue if something happens? There is no official Search and Rescue in the park, but any of the CONAF Ranger stations will help you.

What are the winters like around here? Calm, blue, clear, freezing and beautiful.

How cold does it get in the park at night? In the summer, not freezing, but it can still get close sometimes.

Can I rent a tent and matress at the refugios?

Yes, but you cant take them with you as you trek. This means that you can´t camp at any of the free campsites.´

Is there a bus that goes to Calfate directly from Torres del Paine?

Yes, it picks up at 5pm at Laguna Amarga. Call Onas for that transfer. It costs 35.000 from the park and from Pto. Natales it costs 10.000. What’s the weather going to be like

for the next few days? Ha ha! We put this one in just for fun! .... No, really, what’s the weather going to be like? I need to know what to pack! Plan for everything. The weather changes constantly.

Your Park Map Dont forget...

How much does the catamaran to Pehoe cost in the park? The Catamaran costs 10.000 pesos per person, one way, 18.000 round trip. Is there food sold in the park? You can buy hot meals in the refugios. As far as buying camp food, you can find some staples at the bigger refugios, but its cheaper to buy all your food in town. Can I cook in the refugios? In the nicer, bigger refugios you can usually find a gas stove to use, but no real kitchen facilities. Why do all the girls here wear those uniform mini skirts to school in such a cold and windy place? Another big mystery, but we are pretty sure it was a man’s idea. Are there any flights going in or out of that airstrip outside of town? They say it’s possible, but we’ve never seen it happen. How much do the taxis cost? From 6am to 1am it’s 800 pesos. From 1am to 6am it’s 1.000 pesos. (Within city limits). How long does the trekking season last? Roughly from October to April, but it’s growing more every year. The truth is that it’s beautiful here all the time, the park is great in winter. Are there backpackers here in the winter? Not many in June, July and August... yet.

right over us this time of year. It can and will cause you problems after a multi day trek in the park. The UV rays come through the clouds too, so don’t go light on the sun goop. Where can I buy white gas? The pharmacies carry clean white gas. You can start finding them in some of the outdoor and building material stores too. What’s up with all the military guys walking around town? There is a military base located right outside of town. Why do I get given a piece of paper every time I buy something? It´s the law, no joke. What’s up with all the dogs? Half of them are street dogs, half of them are owned but run free anyway. Together they make more street dogs. It’s a circle of life thing...

Your park map that you recieve at the entrance contains alot of useful information. On the map itself you will find average trekking times from camp to camp, as well as the bus roads. On the backside of the map you will find a great elevation gain grid, distances in kilometers and a rating system. The reverse side of the map also has sunrise and sunset times and info on flora and fauna. ...but oh yeah, it’s all in spanish. Not yet. The Patagonia Foundation is getting the ball rolling though. They will recycle your batteries. Do I have to worry about making a reservation for the bus on my way back from TdP? No. There is almost always room, and they never leave anyone behind. They always work it out for you. ...and all the buses and all the boats meet up with each other perfectly, crazy I know. Is it true that they are RAISING the enterance fee to the park?

Do I need to tie up my food in the park?

We don’t know, but that seems to be the rumor.

Not really. But mice and/or a fox might get into your vestabule. It’s best to sleep with food in the tent, with you.

my toilet paper down the toilet? Do I really

What’s up with me not being able to flush have to throw it in the waste basket!?

Can you drink the water in the park? You bet! Best water in the world. Just make sure it’s fresh run off, no lake water or anything down stream from a camp or refugio.

It depends on where you are. Sometimes its fine

When do the bars start hopping? If you’re really going to go out, and do it up right, don’t worry about starting until midnight... and don’t plan on coming home until breakfast.

Is there anything fun to do here in town? The best free-day advice for Natales is go for a walk. Down the beach, hike on Dorotea, go visit the cemetery on the top of the hill, rent a bike… that sort of thing. Don’t forget your camera.

from yester-year just cant handle it.

Are the times on the trail maps accurate? The times are pretty good on the CONAF map, depending on your physical condition. Some of the books seem to be a bit off though.

Why do I seem to understand LESS Spanish in Chile than anywhere else? Chileans down here talk really fast and with a lot of slang.

Do I get a map when I enter the park? Yes, but a basic one. You can buy a nicer wall map in town.

Why is there so much garbage on the beach? That is a very good question.

Do I need sunscreen in the park? Absolutely! The hole in the ozone wobbles

Is there a place to recycle my glass, plastic, or cardboard?

What time is sunrise and sunset? It changes, of course, but the map you receive when you enter the park has some of that info on the back.

28 february 2006

to flush it, but if it says not to, DONT! A bit gross and bizarre, I know, but the pipes

A free english information session is held everyday at Erratic Rock. Come grab a cup of coffee or tea and find out about the park, transportation, equipment, food, buses, boats and programs.

Who is Enviu?

Sustainability, buzzword or reality?by Marnix Doorn

Allow us to introduce ourselves; we are Enviu, The Environment and You!

The environmental organisation for young people between the ages of 21 and 35 (and of course for older people who are young at heart!). It’s time for a fresh face on the environmental scene. We are young and entrepreneurial and approach environmental issues from a professional point of view. This means that we are open and transparent, we dare to take risks and have our own vision on how to involve (younger) people in sustainability issues. Make the environment part of the self-interest of people In our vision, sustainability is an essential part of our existence and you don’t need to be stuck in the sixties and live off your own home-grown vegetables to realise that and actively do something about it. Our core vision is that everyone is dependent on the environment: our health, food and economies are tightly linked to it. This is why we develop ways to put the environment in the sustainable self-interest of people to be sure that not only we can live on this planet, and enjoy it, but also enable future generations to do so. Enviu in the world Enviu works in the Netherlands and Patagonia. We focus on solutions for existing environmental problems and we are working in areas that receive relatively little international attention. In Patagonia we work on sustainable development projects in National Park Torres del Paine, Puerto Natales, and Puerto Williams. Our input: business and social-economical knowledge and experience Many biologists in the field often lack this ‘gamma’-science knowledge and experience. This is why we are supporting the local (environmental) organisations to develop that knowledge and to build up and utilise local expertise regarding sustainable forestry, fisheries and tourism. If you want to know more about us, check out our web-site www.enviu.org.

Nowadays, the terms “sustainability” and “sustainable development” have almost become buzzwords. The terms are heard in many different contexts and organisations. From multi-national companies to Non Governmental Organisations, from Greenpeace to the World Bank, everyone is talking about sustainable development. However, who invented the concept of “sustainable development”, what is it, and what does it look like in practice? The concept became fashionable after the publication of a report by the World Commission for Economic Development in 1987. Irrespective of which vision individuals or organisations use as a guideline, the bottom line of sustainability consists of the capacity of ecological systems to maintain their productive capacity in the long-term, so the economic and social systems can continue to subsist. The ecological dimension of sustainable development takes the view that the carrying capacity of the earth and its ecosystems should be respected and the vital functions, including the provision of natural resources such as oxygen and water, should be preserved. From the ecological perspective, the resilience of ecological systems is important. An ecosystem is a dynamic, complex system of communities of plants, animals, micro organisms and the non-living environment, which constitute a functional unity. The economic dimension of sustainable development consists of production, employment and consumption for the satisfaction of needs and the material standard of living of mankind. Economic activity must effectively and efficiently meet the needs of the individual and society (SFSO, 2001). The economic framework must enable and stimulate personal initiatives; self interest must be put to service of the common interest and the welfare of the present and future generations. The social dimension of sustainable development refers to humans and the social systems in which they interact. Justice, livelihood, well-being, health, social solidarity and cultural identity are important notions and starting-points in this matter. Reducing the negative impacts of economic activities upon nature does not necessarily mean that the quality of life improves for everybody. It may imply that the rich get richer and the poor get poorer (Robinson, 2004). Co-operation, equal opportunities and possibilities (i.e., access to opportunities) and an equitable distribution of wealth are important conditions for a sustainable social system. However, individuals’ own initiative remains the key driver for change (Enviu, 2005).

15 blacksheepchile@gmail.com

When we suppose that man is involved in a continuous quest for an increasing level of wealth, the mutual relationship between the three dimensions of sustainable development is of vital importance. In the process of generating wealth, four forms of capital are combined: production capital, human capital, social/organisational capital and ecological capital. When the total capital stock is not maintained or improved in quantity or quality, then we have to face the risk that the flow of goods will dry up eventually (Ekins, 1992). This means that a non-sustainable situation has been created.

When the total stock of capital goods is at least maintained or, better still, improved, then the importance of sustainable development of natural resources becomes clear. The importance of the ecological capital stock is very high when it is not possible to replace it for another form of capital. Ekins et al. (2003) mention that we can speak of “Critical Natural Capital” when a) the function of nature cannot be replaced by another function of welfare creation, b) the loss of this particular function of nature is irreversible, or c) there is a situation of excessive losses that cannot be reversed in a sound economical way, for example when fish stocks fall below the critical minimum.

One possible way of incorporating the effect of resource depletion in the system of social welfare over time consists of introducing virtual rents (shadow prices) from negative investments in natural resources; this approach is used in the field of resource economics. (For more information, see among others Hanley & Spash (1993)). This approach is often applied – but not limited – to real stocks of natural resources, like oil and timber. However, services from natural resources can be added as intangible flows, affecting individual welfare by means of virtual consumption (e.g., enjoying the view of the Torres del Paine, appreciating the existence of the woodpecker). This leads to a classification of products with a direct use-value, services with a direct use-value, products and services with an indirect use-value and non-use values.

Although frowned upon by some for philosophical reasons, economists and others have been working on methods that include such values in calculations regarding environmental ‘costs and benefits’. Today, a large variety of valuation methods are available for the estimation of the contribution of nature to the

Fish farming in Patagonia Economic dimension

The ever-increasing amount of tourists creates a market that offers the fishermen an alternative source of income. Tourism will be an alternative, sustainable source of income for the fishermen and there will be a spin-off effect to other entrepreneurs (hotels, restaurants and shops).

well-being of people, though in fact not all are applicable in every situation. By using these methods the value of natural resources and the environment, for which no formal market is available, demand functions are derived from a hypothetical market. However, this remains an abstract, theoretical approach to sustainable development. So is there a more concrete example? From theory to practice: Sendero de los Alacalufes (Alacalufes Trail) A group of artesian fishermen, whose livelihoods are suffering from the overexploitation of fish resources in the Puerto Natales area, decided to take action. Working alongside their existing living, they are planning to develop a new activity of guiding tourists in the National Reserve Alacalufes, where tourists will be informed extensively about flora, fauna and the cultural background (the Alacalufes were an Indian tribe that used this trail to transfer their canoes from one canal to another. Cave paintings can be found on the way). The region is already visited by a large number of tourists, who visit the near-by Torres del Paine National Park, but do not have many activities available in their remaining time in the area. By organising additional tours in the area, the fishermen hope to encourage tourists to stay longer with all the positive impacts as a multiplier effect for the local economy.

Social dimension: The local fishermen have initiated the process, they have shown themselves to be entrepreneurs by starting up the project, and their aim is to involve more local people if the initiative becomes a success. The expected improvement in their economic position should be incentive for others to start up a similar project. In case this happens on a large scale, it is important to pay attention to social impacts of this transition in this small community. This is only a small example of people trying to develop in a more sustainable way of living. Of course, it is not that easy and there is a long way to go to bring sustainable development in practice, which is likely to be a long slow process.

The salmon industry is not

well received in many parts of the world, because it is associated with contamination.

Puerto Natales is no exception. In Seno Ultima Esperanza and Eber-

hard fjord are a few salmon farms.

They have been a presence here for a long time and probably they

will be operating for many more years. In many ways salmon farms

are bad for the natural cycle of life.

The kind of food used and the def-

ecation from the fish farms contaminate the bottom of the seas and lakes, destroying portions

of the local ecosystem. In the sea, tides and water circulation help to keep things “normal”. This is not the case in the lakes.

If you take the new road towards the Cueva del Milodon, you will see a Salmon farm in

Laguna Sofia. Laguna Sofía is a stagnant body of water, so even in this hidden corner of the world, this salmon farming is having the same effect here.

This specific farm has a very old concession given to the owners. It is specific for the handling

of young fish that are taken there for a few weeks as part of the process that finally will take them to live in salt water.

In the rest of the country this kind of fish farms are not aloud and now pertinent authorities will decide to renew the concession or not. Patagonia is still one of the purest destinations in the world, so let’s make an effort and keep it that way for the future generations.

The information was derived from the positioning paper of the Enviu foundation, edited for Black Sheep by Marnix Doorn and Sarah Rutter of Enviu foundation in Chile.

This case clearly exemplifies the three dimensions of sustainable development:

Ecological dimension

By continuing the current rate of fishing, the stock will quickly become depleted, which will result in higher unemployment. In case the collective decision of decreasing the total catch turns out to be impossible, then diversification seems a good alternative. The alternative will however have to deal with any negative environmental effects. The fishermen cooperate with a foundation that will take care of an environmental impact analysis wherein possible alternatives about the structuring of activities are assessed, the impact that the proposed enterprise has on the environment is investigated and a method for structurally monitoring that impact is set up. March 2006

Para solicitar su aviso publicitario llame al fono 412239

Bulnes 285 ph (56-61) 411263 (56-61)411129 ex. 148 e-mail museonat23mail.cl

Mon - Fri 8:00 - 19:00 Sat 10:00-13:00 / 15:00 – 20:00 Entrance $500 CLP (National Visitor) $1000 CLP (International Visitor) Children up to 12 years old free of charge

Bookings for Hosterias, Lodges, Shuttles, Navegation to Torres del Paine and more... pathagone@entelchile.net Eberhard 595 • ph 56 61 413291

Ouch! That hurts!

by Sarah Rutter

Three days or more of serious trekking can

take its toll on any body not accustomed to

such endurance, so it’s likely that you’ll leave the Park with an aching muscle or two at the least. And unfortunately, there’s always a

The nautical route to Torres del Paine

chance of more serious injury. Here are some tips on reducing that possibility and what to do if you’re not so lucky...

How can I avoid getting injured in the Park?

The most common injury of walkers in the Park is pulled or strained muscles, so the best advice

is to be aware of your fitness level and your lim-

its and don’t try to do too much. Stretching well at the end of a day of walking and first thing in

the morning should help loosen taut muscles and

reduce the risk of strains. Blisters are a common complaint too, so make sure you have the right footwear. Taping the areas of your feet prone to

friction injuries with zinc oxide or fabric surgical tape before you start can also help to avoid

blisters developing in the first place. Insect bites can be bothersome as well.

Take a small first aid kit with you containing at

the minimum, pain killers/ anti-inflammatories, plasters/ blister treatment (Second Skin is ideal

for friction injuries on your feet), insect repellent and anti-histamine cream.

What if I don’t have the treatment I need with me?

Every Park ranger station has a first aid kit and

can deal with minor injuries such as cuts, blisters and strains. Whilst the Park rangers have first

aid training, they are not allowed to administer medicines, so they cannot perform miracles. De-

pending on the severity of the injury, you may have to consider modifying or abandoning your trek rather than carry

on and risk exacerbating the problem. And if someone is seriously injured?

The first thing you should do is report the incident, through whatever means available, to a Park ranger or any of the concessions within the

Park. Every Park ranger station and concession

has a radio and will alert CONAF Administration, who will implement the necessary measures depending on the sector and terrain you

will be provided to anyone in difficulties, as long as you are in an authorised area of the Park (ie

on a marked pathway or recognised public area), so keep

to the permitted routes at all times unless you have specific permission (available for climbers only).

Wherever possible, the Park rangers will get you

out of the mountain area to a point from where

transport can be arranged to Puerto Natales or Punta Arenas if necessary. Very often guides or others in the Park work with the Park rangers to

help people in difficulties. If you need an ambulance or other special transport out of the Park, you will need to pay for this yourself.

Remember that it may take some time for help

to arrive, as the Park is large and many areas can only be reached on foot or by horse.

What about helicopter assistance?

CONAF can arrange helicopter assistance if it

is considered necessary and appropriate. Every sector of the Park has a designated helicopter landing area. However, the availability of

helicopter assistance depends largely on the

weather conditions within the Park. If the wind is too strong, the cloud too thick or the rain too heavy, a helicopter cannot be deployed. Again, it may take a few hours for assistance to arrive depending on the conditions and where the

injured person is. If a helicopter is deployed,

the injured person will need to cover this cost.

are in and the nature of the incident. Assistance

12 13 blacksheepchile@gmail.com

Sendero de Chile

Cabo Froward

by M.Pilar Irribarra B

The longest trek in the world.

by I.M. Juarez

This is the end.

Sendero de Chile: Ruta Patrimonial Milodon

The Strait of Magellan, the channel,

The “Sendero de Chile”is a huge project which aims to link Chilean people and foreigners with the natural, cultural, ethnic, and scenic variety of our country. By the year 2010 it will be the longest trail in the world, with an extension over 8.500 kilometers. This path will link the plateau and the most barren desert of the world; central valleys and its cities, parks, woods, lakes and volcanoes in southern Chile; austral glaciers and the vast expanse of the Patagonia pampas, and finally, our main island ecosystems, with paths in isla de Pascua in Archipielago de Juan Fernández and Isla Grande de Chiloé. Currently, sendero de Chile has 35 walks that form this amazing route with more than 1.200 kilometers along the country. Each journey is linked to unique geographical conditions, but specially linked to very particular and unique natural and tourist attractions. At the Magallanes region, 3 trails exists: “Isla Navarino in Cabo de Hornos”, “Reserva Nacional de Magallanes” and “Ruta Patrimonial Milodon” (few kms from Puerto Natales). Ruta Patrimonial Milodón. This trail begins 20 kms to the north of the Milodon cave, in the “Nuevo camino al Parque Nacional Torres Del Paine” or Lago Porteño way. The trail is 60 cms wide and 42 kms in lenth. and begins at the foot of the Cerro Tenerife hill. It is an easy walk and while you are walking, you can enjoy the magnificent landscape of the the Paine Grande Massif and the three lakes near: The Porteño, The Maravilla and The Toro; besides it is also possible to see the Tyndall and Grey Glaciers and part of the Campo de Hielo Patagónico Sur. Finally, the journey ends at the Serrano river, next to the Torres del Paine National Park. Walking the whole path takes about 3 or 4 days, so you can camp at Rio Ventisquero, El Salto and Rio Serrano. The environmental characteristics in this path are a feature of the patagonia climate, with a wide variety of native vegetation like lengas, coigues, ñirres, maitenes, ciruelillos, and calafates. You can also see different kind of birds and other animals like condor, eagles, parrots, foxes, bobcats, etc. The trail “Ruta Patrimonial Milodon” is in an improvement phase at present so its infrastructure is still basic. The trail is accessible from its starting point to the end in Rio Serrano, from where you can visit the Torres del Paine National Park or make a descent by zodiac through the Rio Serrano, visit Balmaceda and Serrano glacier and continue by boat to Puerto Natales.

scene of countless shipwrecks, the oldest cem-

HOW TO ARRIVE:

liable map is next to impossible. Trails are only

etery in Patagonia, historical bays and bizarre stories of buried treasure. The bottom of Africa and the bottom of Austra-

Cabo departure dates 2006 Cabo Froward programs leave every Sunday from Puerto Natales and return to Punta Arenas on Fridays.

lia are easy to find. They’re just spots on a map

Feb 8 Feb 13 Feb 20 Feb 27 March 6 March 13 March 20 April 2

that you drive your car to, get out, take a photo next to the sign and drive off. Not the case for the bottom point of South America. This journey is only for those ready to get completely away from the masses and willing to put themselves in a place where the words ‘self reliance’ cannot be taken lightly. Be prepared for an agonizingly rough trail, relentless wind and two neck-high river crossings carrying your pack over your head. There is no going back, mi amigo. Our trek began where the dirt road ends. Old deep forest of nothofagus: huge coigues that seems never before seen or touched.

Maximum 6 participants per departure date. Experience and good physical fitness is essential. Must be able to carry full and loaded pack and walk on and in difficult terrain, including rivers at minimum of 1.5 meters deep. Optional zodiac return from tip or trek up Mt. Tarn is subject to additional fees. Programs

The views were incredible, not only the Strait itself, but the mountains surrounding it. Mt. Sarmiento is impressive, reaching more than 7000 feet after rising out of the sea. And then there is the Darwin Range, part of Alberto de Agostini National Park. There is a good chance of being saturated at least once a day. The hike covers sand, rainforest and rock, plus two large river crossings and multiple small ones. The trail is not always clearly marked. Finding a re-

starting at 125.000 clp. Contact Erratic Rock +56·61·410355 info@erraticrock.com

From Puerto Natales, you can go by private car or taxi, because there is no regular bus service this

marked by the few that try their luck reaching

Contact them the day before plan to leave.

be a section of the Sendero de Chile project,

Paine National Park administration at 13.00 hrs. and at 18.15 hrs.

ries that span the length of Chile, eliminating the need to cross into Argentina. This project is

way. We recommend Hoffman radio-taxi, phone: 411022 or Milodon radio-taxi, phone: 410426.

the bottom of the continent. . This is what will

To come back to Puerto Natales it is possible to take the regular bus which leaves the Torres del

which aims to create roads and paths and fer-

This project is coordinated by CONAMA (Comisión Nacional de medio Ambiente) and

expected to be completed in 2010.

port this initiative (Ministerio de Bienes Nacionales, Ministerio de Defensa, Ministerio de Obras

The final goal is to reach the crucifix that overlooks the end of the American continent. The

SERNATUR,(Servicio nacional de Turismo) together with the different public services that supPublicas, besides CONAF, FOSIS and INDAP).

view from the lookout provides a true sense of history. At that moment you realize where in the

world you are. This trek is not for everyone. There is no help, or contact with the world for days

in any direction. The weather can be equally beautiful and unforgiving. This completely self supported trip can be called nothing less then extreme trekking.

erratic rock

Hanging off the edge of the world

Adventu r e s i n P a t a g o n i a www.erraticrock.com ph +56 61 410355

More then just a hostel.

01 by Noah Mesdag

March 2006

The Patagonia Five by el oso de oregon to look for and where to look for them.

Most of us are familiar with Africa’s

famous “big five”: the buffalo, elephant, rhinoceros, lion and leopard. However, few are familiar with the Patagonian Five (probably because I just came up with it to get published). Though they are not as big or dangerous as their counterparts in Africa, the P5 prove to be just as unique and even harder to observe (except for the guanacos!). A lot of luck is needed to observe all of the five in the park. Hopefully, the descriptions that follow will help trekkers in Torres del Paine find them or be aware of what

GUANACO: A South American cameloid relative of the llama and the alpaca. Sleek and strong, with brownish-white bodies and long necks. They are found in the steppe areas of Laguna Amarga, Laguna Azul, on the drive from the entrance to Lago Pehoe, and Laguna Verde. Guanacos feed on grasses, lichen, and shrubs. They breed once a year and give birth to their “chulengos” between November and February. HUEMUL: The Huemul or Andean deer is a small, compact deer, measuring on average just 1.5 meters in length. They can be found on the road between the Administration and Hostería Grey, near Western Bomelsies, around Lago Grey, and along the Pingo tram. The Huemul is on the brink of extinction, due to man’s encroachment on its habitat and forest fires. However, they are now strictly protected. They are very shy and very difficult to observe.

PUMA: The largest of Patagonia’s predators, pumas are closely related to the North American mountain lion. Pumas thrive in a variety of habitats both inside and outside of the park, from steppe to dense forest. The puma’s only enemy is man, and although they are protected by law, they are still hunted by ranchers. Trekkers will be lucky to see more than a track.

faces and soars over the entire park. The black “fingers” at the tips of the 2.5-meter wings, plus its bright white collar, are the trademarks of this symbol of Chile. They produce only one chick every other year.

photos by Louis Rutter

ÑANDU: Also known as the Rhea, the ñandu is a member of the ostrich family. They are found on the main entrance drive to the park, and along the road toward Laguna Verde. There is no visual difference between male and female ñandus. The Hareem of females lay all their eggs in one nest and the male sits on the eggs and watches over the 30 to 40 “charitas” (chicks). They are noted for their speed and zig-zag escape patterns. CONDOR: The condor is the largest member of the Vultrine family. It nests on high cliff

BIG FOOT Since 1999 running your adventure

www.bigfootpatagonia.com BORIES 206.PUERTO NATALES info@bigfootpatagonia.com

ice hike on glacier grey / kayaking / trekking trips / ice & rock climbing seminars / mountaineering / expeditions made by Big Foot

get more friends together for special discounts for groups! Ask in our offices or in our mountain hut in Grey

blacksheepchile@gmail.com

Maté, maté man In Patagonia, the mate tradition is more than just an excuse to enjoy a hot infusion of herbs. Sitting around the teapot or the fire to prepare and drink mate is a friendly act which has survived for centuries to become one of the most recognized customs of the Patagonian people. The first records of the use of mate date back to the 17th century. In his book “Short History of the Spanish Conquest”, Spaniard Ruíz Díaz de Guzmán describes how the Indians carry small leather pouches containing a grinder and toasted mate herbs. They chew the herbs, or mix them with water in a calabash and drink using their teeth as filter. The Spanish conquerors noticed that mate leaves gave natives a “special force” to improve performance of their daily activities. The rest is history... Now, in most countries of South America, and especially in Patagonia, you can find yerba mate in almost every warehouse and supermarket. But it is one thing to buy it, and another thing to use it correctly. In Patagonia preparing a good mate is considered an art, so don’t expect to get it right first time. Here are the principles of mate. Fill your mate pot with mate herb up to 2/3 of its capacity, taking care

by Hermann Klassen

that the thinner powder stays in the surface and the big leaves and sticks stay at the bottom. Now move all the content to one side of the mate pot. Gently pour small warm amounts of water – never boiling- careful that the liquid doesn’t impact yerba with force. Allow a moment for the yerba to absorb the water, repeat. Place the straw, or bombilla, in the area of the mate pot that stays free of herb. Start filling the pot with thin spouts of water, moving the infusion as little as possible. Only now is it ready for being slowly sipped. Keep adding small amounts of water when necessary. If you prefer sweet mate, add one teaspoon of sugar in the side where the bombilla is. Never mix it with the rest of the herb.

am interested in you. Mate with lemon: I don’t want to see you. Mate with burn sugar: I’m thinking of you. Mate with Milk: friends with a lot of respect. Mate with Coffee: I forgive your fault. Blocked Mate: Don’t come back. Very hot Mate: I love you, I’m waiting for your words. Foamy Mate: Mutual love. Mate with Honey: Marriage. Mate with Cedron: I agree.

estancia or a puesto, you can be sure that they will invite you with a mate or coffee. If it’s coffee, you can assume that you are not very welcome. Drink it fast and say goodbye. In the other hand, if you are invited with a mate, get ready for good conversation full of the magic and unique histories from the people of the end of the world.

If you are lucky enough to make contact with the baqueanos at an Erratic Rock & Bigfoot present

BigRock Outdoor Festival Music, Crafts, Games, Food - Wind or Rain or Shine

The Language of Mate: Because the people who work in Patagonian estancias are accustomed to long periods of solitude whilst tending to their animals, they are often people of few words. Over time, they have created a kind of secret language, communicated by the sensations mate produce.

Black

Sheep

Sweet Mate: friendship, you are welcome. Mate with cinnamon: I

For Bookings call 56-61-414168 Puerto Natales, Chile www.weskar.cl / contacto@weskar.cl

A day of free and friendly outdoor games and competitions! All welcome, all day, wind, rain or shine. All day baby soccer Bike race Foot race Big Rock throw Rope pull Sled Races Mini tri-atholon ...and more SIGN-UPS DAY OF FESTIVAL ONLY

End of March, 2006 Soccer Field - Puerto Natales 25 March 2006

Located behind the Crafts Plaza - See map on reverse

Buses

Report: Daniel Bruhin W. y Pía Urbina

Approximate travel times from Puerto Natales (allow for border crossings and tour connections within park) El Calafate 5 hrs TDP L. Amarga Punta Arenas 3 hrs TDP Pudeto Ushuaia 15 hrs TDP Admin

QUEREMOS UNA MEJOR CONCIENCIA EN EL CUIDADO DE NUESTRAS PLAYAS. 2 hrs 30 3 hrs 15 3 hrs 45

Natales - Torres del Paine

Torres del Paine - Natales

Andescape Ph 412877

(Laguna Amarga)

7.15 14.30

(Pudeto) (Administration) Gomez Ph 415700

7.15 14.30

(Laguna Amarga) (Pudeto) (Administration)

JB Ph 412824

7.30 14.30

(Laguna Amarga) (Pudeto) (Administration)

15.00 19.45 14.00 19.00 13.00 18.15 15.00 19.45 14.00 19.00 13.00 18.15 15.00 20.00 14.00 19.00 13.00 18.30

Natales - Punta Arenas

Punta Arenas - Natales

Bus Fernandez Ph 411111

Bus Fernandez

Bus Pacheco Ph 414513 Bus Sur Ph 411859

7.15 9.00 13.00 14.30 18.30 20.00 10.00 18.00 7.00 8.30 15.00 19.00

Bus Pacheco Bus Sur

9.00 13.00 14.30 17.00 18.30 20.00 14.00 18.30 9.00 13.00 15.00 19.00

Natales - El Calafate

Natales - Ushuaia (direct)

Cootra Ph 412785

Bus Sur (tues, fri) Ph 411859

8.30

7.00

Trekking - Horseback Riding - Birdwatching - Photo Safari - Whale Watching - Kayaking

14 14 blacksheepchile@gmail.com

A la salida sur de Puerto Natales, camino a Dumestre, está la hermosa costanera natural que invita a pasear por la playa disfrutando una agradable vista del mar, de las montañas circundantes y de la observación de todo tipo de aves. Sin embargo, desde que empezamos a caminar por la playa, nos hemos encontrado con todo tipo de desechos sólidos domiciliarios como camas, lavadoras, cocinas, etc., neumáticos, sacos de basuras, partes de vehículos así como también restos de pescados y centollas que botaron o una pesquera o pescadores, ¡y hasta un perro muerto! Es una verdadera pena que personas de muy poca conciencia ecológica en nuestra

sus padres también aprendan sobre el tema del medio ambiente. Proponemos también, para evitar situaciones similares en el futuro, que el municipio debería organizar un día al mes o unas cuatro veces al año por lo menos, la recolección de escombros de toda la ciudad de Puerto Natales, para evitar que los vecinos vayan a botarlos en cualquier parte. Estas fechas claves deberían estar muy bien publicitadas a todos los habitantes, por ejemplo en las boletas de luz, agua y gas y por la televisión regional y radios locales. También exigimos que cualquier persona

ciudad boten todo tipo de desperdicios en esta hermosa playa y también a orillas del camino, que podría ser un atractivo turístico más de nuestra zona. Es por esta razón, que queremos dar a conocer a la población local y a las autoridades, nuestra preocupación para que se organice una limpieza general de toda la playa mencionada y a la vez de recorrer otras hacía el norte y al sur de Natales para verificar el estado de cada una. Nos gustaría dar soluciones, como por ejemplo: organizar de parte del Municipio la limpieza general de la playa con la colaboración de escolares de enseñanza básica y media, con voluntarios jóvenes y adultos o militares, dando a cada participante los implementos necesarios junto a un camión municipal que se lleve todos los escombros y basuras al vertedero municipal. Esto sería una buena enseñanza para los alumnos, que a su vez contarán su experiencia en casa, para que

que sorprenda a alguien depositando basura o escombros en una playa o en otro lugar no autorizado, denuncie el infractor a las autoridades pertinentes anotando la patente del vehículo o de crear un fono denuncia en el municipio para este tipo de casos. Ojalá que las penas para esta infracción sean también más elevadas en el futuro. Nos gustaría una ciudad limpia para todos los habitantes de Puerto Natales y también para nuestros visitantes. Nuestra constitución nos garantiza un medio ambiente libre de contaminación. Entonces, queremos a una Municipalidad que cumpla con sus obligaciones y también a unos conciudadanos más concientes de su entorno natural.

Torres del Paine fire Still a heated issue -by Max Salas Last season, the negligence of one camper us-

of wind didn’t help; it only gave the impres-

ing a stove started a huge environmental catas-

sion that the fire was going out. However, all

trophe in the Torres del Paine National Park.

of us who love our homeland and have been

Since it was declared to be a Reserve of the

here for some years knew better. The follow-

Biosphere by the United Nations Educational,

ing Monday evening, the wind returned. On

Scientific and Cultural Organization in 1978,

Monday, 56 hours after the fire was declared,

the Chilean Torres del Paine National Park has

the local authorities finally performed the first

suffered several environmental disasters, but

aircraft flyover, and had a proper assessment

two fires in particular caused more irreparable

of the real situation. Of course, the conclusion

damage than anything else. One was a colos-

was pretty obvious by that time. Now, some

sal fire that in 1985 converted incredible old

explanations are being given for the lack of

beech forests into ash-

technical

es. Those forests will

and profes-

never be back to the way they were.

AquaNativa Kayaking

56 • 61 • 412239 info@aquaterrapatagonia.com

ity for Chile to react strongly to emergencies exists, the problem lies in its priorities. The

In less than 48 hours, 300 fully-equipped sional firesoldiers were deployed to Haiti

Chilean government has to understand that

ployment

has to be a national priority. If Chile wants

The other disaster is the fire that started on February 17, 2005. It burned unique meadows, valleys, and woods that are

fighting de-

to control the fire, but the main reason is that there are no resources for it.

the essence of the Patagonian wildlife and

It is incredible to hear this argument, consid-

landscape. The fire began on a Thursday after-

ering the fact that it was only two years ago

noon. During the first 48 hours, the firefighting

that the Chilean government was showing the

consisted of sending in two dozen teenagers,

whole world this country’s preparedness and

armed only with shovels, and without any lo-

high degree of coordination and mobiliza-

gistic assistance. Miraculously, in those first

tion when, in less than 48 hours, 300 fully-

three days, there was no wind (an occur-

equipped soldiers were deployed to Haiti. The

rence that is very uncommon at that time of

deployment included vehicles, portable hos-

the year). The lack of wind could have been

pitals, food, water treatment plants, ammuni-

a key element to controlling the damage, but

tions, and much more. Equipment was sent

as there was no serious and sophisticated

to the other side of the world to contribute to

firefighting methods being used, the lack

the humanitarian cause. Although the capac-

the environmental cause is not only a topic to talk about in the international forums; it to been taken seriously by the international community, it has to show, with proof, that its priorities are in the right place. Clearly, the lack of reaction time shows that for the Chilean government, the protection of the environment is not yet an issue. Its resources need to be spent usefully, and not in useless environmental bureaucracy, in which endless amounts of money can be spent. This has to be changed by us, the people. The Chilean voters and taxpayers, together with the

You vs.

Nature The next generation of adventure is here.

international public opinion, have to put their priorities straight.

03 March 2006

Inspiring change by S. Betty ETNONATURAL PARK PATAGONIA

The new Patagonian Etnonatural Park recently opened to the public. Its main attraction is the sculptural representation of the indigenous Magellan peoples set against beautiful natural scenes. The trail through the park takes around 30 to 45 minutes and consists of nine displays in which you can see depictions of the first inhabitants of these lands: The Kaweskar, Yamanas, Aonikenk and Selknam. In additon, there is a small cave inside the park, which was once used as a refuge by hunters. On its walls you can see cave paintings of simple shapes but with great symbolic meaning and power. Many of these are geometrical outlines, animal tracks, human hands, lines, anthropomorphic and animal figures. Along the path, you can feel the secrets of the spirits in the air, and among the ancient trees of the wooded areas images of the steppe hunters of Tierra del Fuego come to mind, nomadic peoples and the austral rivers. The Etnonatural Park is outside of Puerto Natales near the Milodon cave at Km 23. The park is open everyday during the week and costs $3.000 per person.

If you’re here in Puerto Natales to visit the Torres del Paine National Park, you might be here just because it’s on the “must do” list of places to visit in South America. But it is more likely that you’re here to experience the natural beauty of the place – the breathtaking view of the Los Cuernos towering above the turquoise waters of Lake Nordenskjöld, the simple majesty of Las Torres viewed from the Lookout point Las Torres, the imposing presence of Paine Grande crowned by an impossibly white glacier. And if you have that appreciation for the natural world, then maybe to a greater or lesser extent you share a concern for its wellbeing. The Torres del Paine National Park, like all National Parks around the world, is an ambassador for our planet, a reminder of the untameable power and the raw beauty of nature; multi-faceted, simple yet at the same time impossibly complex and well beyond the ken of mankind. Parks such as this one also offer sanctuary to the natural world from the steady, unstoppable advance of man. Pause for a minute and compare this place with your own hometown. If you’re a city dweller, your thoughts may well be of paved streets, tall buildings, traffic jams, rush and bustle – a life a world away from the clear, pristine landscapes of this enchanted Park, but part of the same planet, a planet in need of the care and protection of every one of us. It is easy to look at the frightening pace of technological progress in the West and the newly awakening, insatiable appetite for development in the East, and throw our hands

The one that started it all ph. 240104 or 226239

Punta Arenas, Chile

LA REPIZZA BEER

PI ZZAS SA ND W I CH ES SA LADS PASTAS

10AM to 12AM Blanco Encalada 294 410361 blacksheepchile@gmail.com

up in resignation. What can we do? What impact can any one individual have? True, there are overwhelming forces at work which seriously threaten our natural world and over which we have little if any influence. But if the actions of each individual are combined with those of other individuals, they really can make a difference. This doesn’t mean changing your life – being conscious of the environmental impact of your day-to-day activities and making small changes to reduce that impact is a good place to start. Here are some ideas for while you’re travelling as well as for the longer term: 1…If the water supply is drinkable, refill your water bottle from the tap (or in the Park from any of the fast-flowing mountain streams), rather than buy new plastic bottles of mineral water each time. Plastics are derived from non-renewable resources, processed using extensive chemical treatments, so as well as being non- biodegradable, they are very environmentally-damaging to produce. Every plastic bottle you throw away is a waste of precious resources. 2…Dispose of used batteries responsibly. Discarded batteries, once they start to break down, leak metals and poisons which can enter watercourses and kill plants and wildlife. Even throwing your batteries in the bin means they end up in a landfill site or worse, disposed of offshore, and will have the same damaging effect there. Look for battery collection schemes, like the one run by Fundación Patagonia (www.fundacionpatagonia.cl) in Puerto Natales. 3…Avoid buying pre-packaged food in the supermarket, buy loose fruit, vegetables and meat to cut down on the packaging you consume. Packaging uses a lot of natural resources and generally goes straight into the bin once you get home. 4…Take your own bag to the supermarket so you don’t need to use the plastic bags provided. Plastic bags cannot be recycled and take hundreds of years to biodegrade, so every one you use is adding to the millions that exist already and are filling our landfill sites or worse, littering the countryside. And every one will still be here long after your lifetime.

And once you get back home… 1…Investigate insulating your home as efficiently as possible. This will not only save you money in reduced heating bills but means you will also use less of the planet’s resources. It’s worth checking to see if your government offers grants for home insulation and upgrades to boilers/ heating systems to help meet the emissions targets set by the Kyoto agreement and others. 2…Energy-saving light bulbs are a good step too, but admittedly rather ugly. You could always hide them with a funky lampshade… 3…Look into available sources of “green” energy for your home. The vast majority of household electricity-generation still uses scarce fossil fuels and generates harmful greenhouse gases. Other options include solar or wind power, which on a small, domestic scale can be very expensive. Alternatively in some countries “green” electricity providers, which generate some if not all of their power through renewable sources, are now entering the market. 4…Ideally the fewer resources you use the better, but obviously we all use some. So whatever you do use and throw out each week, try to recycle as much as possible, be it paper, glass, plastic, tin or any other material. Look for recycling services in your area, which will give you advice on how to incorporate recycling in your home. 5…Unfortunately one of the biggest culprits of environmental damage is travel, especially air travel. As most of us here are far from home and will need to take at least one flight to get back to family and friends, we’ll avoid the guilt trip here. One way to make amends is to join a “carbon neutralisation” or “carbonsink” scheme, in which you can pay for trees to be planted on your behalf to absorb carbon released into the environment as a result of your action. Have a look at www.futureforests.com or www.CO2.org for more information. There are many ways to live a more environmentally aware life; the aim here is to simply to provide a good starting point, or at least to get you thinking. So as you continue on to your next destination, may you take with you vivid memories of all you have experienced in this magical place and may they inspire you to care for our fragile planet, on whose well-being this Park, the natural world and our own future depend.

Leave No Trace

Local history -Pto. Bories

Leave No Trace is a program developed by the US Forest Service, the National Outdoors Leadership School (NOLS) and The Bureau of Land Management. It is designed to educate people on how to minimise their impact on the environment while camping.

and rest areas for trash or spilled foods.

This is an abbreviated version of the 7 principles, for more extensive information please visit www.nols.edu.

To wash yourself or your dishes, carry water

Pack out all trash, leftover food, and litter. Deposit solid human waste in catholes dug 6 to 8 inches deep at least 200 feet from water, camp and trails. Cover and disguise the cathole when finished. Pack out toilet paper and hygiene products. 200 feet away from streams or lakes and use small amounts of biodegradable soap. Scatter strained dishwater.

1. Plan Ahead and Prepare

4. Leave What you Find

Know the regulations and special concerns

Preserve the past, observe but do not touch

for the area you’ll visit.

cultural or historic structures and artifacts.

Prepare for extreme weather, hazards

Leave rocks, plants and other natural objects

and emergencies.

as you find them.

Schedule your trip to avoid times of high use.

Avoid introducing or transporting non-native species. Do not build structures, furniture, or dig trenches.

5. Minimize Campfire Impacts Campfires can cause lasting impacts to the backcountry. Use a lightweight stove for cooking and enjoy a candle lantern for light. Where fires are permitted, use established fire rings, fire pans or mound fires. Keep fires small. Only use sticks from

There is the place in Patagonia where hardworking colonists arrived from Europe at end of the nineteenth century and gave life to promising cattle industry. This began in 1877 when the first 300 sheep were introduced from the Falkland Islands, Pto. Bories. The visionary German colonist, Rodolfo Stubenrauch, began with the construction in 1905 when he established a talloshop. In the coming years, the biggest Patagonian company, “Sociedad Explotadora de Tierra del Fuego”, created in 1893, built the large factory called Frigorifico Bories. Here they proccessed thousands of sheep by the year 1915. These magnificent buildings, made of brick, remind us of the post-Victorian ages with its European style. It is easy to recognize the

the ground that can be broken by hand. Burn all wood and coals to ash, put out campVisit in small groups. Split larger parties into groups of 4 - 6.

fires completely, then scatter cool ashes.

Repackage food to minimize waste.

6. Respect Wildlife

Use a map and compass to eliminate use of rock

Observe wildlife from a distance.

cairns, flagging or marking paint.

Do not follow or approach them. Never feed animals.

2. Travel and Camp on Durable Surfaces Durable surfaces include established trails and campsites, rock, gravel, dry grasses or snow. Protect riparian areas by camping at least

Feeding wildlife damages their health, alters natural behaviours, and exposes them to predators and other dangers. Protect wildlife and your food by storing rations and trash securely.

200 feet away from lakes, streams, etc.

Control pets at all times, or leave them at home.

Good campsites are found, not made.

Avoid wildlife during sensitive times, mating,

Altering a site is not necessary. In popular areas Walk in single file in the middle of the trail, even when wet or muddy. Keep campsites small. Focus activity in areas

nesting, raising young, or in winter.

7. Be Considerate of Other Visitors Respect other visitors and protect the quality of their experience.

where vegetation is absent.

Be courteous, yield to other users on the trail.

In pristine areas

Step to the downhill side of the trail when

Disperse use to prevent the creation of campsites and trails. Avoid places where impacts are just beginning.

3. Dispose of Waste Properly Pack it in, pack it out. Inspect your campsite March 2006

encountering pack stock. Take breaks and camp away from trails

locomotive garage, the workshop, the old employees office, the big skin-building and the talloshop. Also you can see the weighing room, which is in front of the dock where the big ships arrived from Europe. They came to obtain the frozen products, which were exported mainly to England. The boiling room and machines room, symbolizes the energetic heart of the refrigeration industry and the tremendous progress achieved in the early years of the twentieth century. This museum is the silent reflection of the thousand of colonists who tirelessly worked and formed the future of these southern landscapes, specially Last Hope which by itself, grew and gave birth to the city Puerto Natales, in 1911.

05 Located 5 kilometers to the north of Puerto Natales in route to Torres del Paine National Park. Hours The museum is open October 1st to April 30th. Seven days a week from 10am to 8pm. Enterance 2.500. English assisted visit 3.500 per person. Historical Industrial Museum Pto. Bories ph & fax +56-61-414328 Patagonia, Chile

and other visitors. Let nature’s sounds prevail. Avoid loud voices and noises. Source http://www.nols.edu/lnt/principles.shtm

14 Getting the ball rolling by S. Betty There’s a slow but sure change underway in Puerto Natales; a growing consciousness of the impact of daily life on the environment and a movement towards reducing that impact. This is being led by local non-profit organisations such as Fundación Patagonia and AMA Torres del Paine. Fundación Patagonia’s mission involves developing collective, communityfocused action to protect and conserve the biodiversity and the natural environment of southern Patagonia, while AMA Torres del Paine’s primary objective is to protect the green spaces of the Torres del Paine National Park. One of the organisations’ ongoing projects is to bring recycling to the area, which is not only a worthwhile activity in itself but also helps to raise awareness among local people and visitors of the environment and our collective responsibility towards it. Fundación Patagonia is already running a battery collection scheme, addressing one major area of concern for environmentalists. As they start to decompose, discarded batteries leak corrosive chemicals, which poison the ground around them and any watercourses nearby. The Foundation collects batteries, which will be sealed in “packages” wrapped in a special plastic

coating. The packages will be inserted in cement blocks (reducing the volume of cement required), which will then be used in the construction projects such as Hotel Indigo, a new hotel on the Costanera of Puerto Natales. You can find Fundación Patagonia’s glass receptacles for used batteries in Puerto Natales at the Post Office, the offices of Big Foot, Antares, Cascada, Chile Nativo and 21 de Mayo, in local schools and colleges as well as in Cerro Castillo, Dorotea and in the Administration Centre, Hotel Explora and Lodge Paine Grande within the Torres del Paine National Park. Another emerging initiative supported by the Foundation is recycling of tin cans. A local entrepreneur, Don Juan, collects tins from restaurants, hotels and even private homes and sells them in Punta Arenas to a company that re-uses the metal. “Don Juan is keen to collect as many tins as possible. The issue is raising awareness of the service he provides among local businesses and homes and encouraging them to separate the tins from their general rubbish,” says Carolina Torres of Fundación Patagonia. Fundación Patagonia and AMA Torres del Paine are also working on a glass recycling initiative with COANIQUEM (Corporación Ayuda al Niño Quemado), a charitable organisation based in Punta Arenas, which works with children suffering from burns. COANIQUEM collects any kind of glass bottles and sells them on to Cristalerias Chile,

which reuses the glass to make new bottles. Cristalerias Chile pays COANIQUEM a higher price per bottle than it would to a normal company due to its charitable status. So not only is there less waste to dispose of in the environment, but a very good

recycling of plastic and paper”, says José Luis Oyarzún, one of the founders of the organisation. “There are receiving organisations in Puerto Montt, we have to work on the logistics of collecting and getting the materials to them.” One of

cause benefits from a significant source of additional income.

the Foundation´s future goals is to obtain containers to collect the bottles, tins, paper and plastic ready for shipping north. It also wants to find a lorry and fund workers to operate it, so that it can collect a different load on different days of the week initially

Glass recycling is already underway in Torres del Paine. Christian Morales of AMA Torres del Paine, which is funded by the Hostería Las Torres and Fantástico Sur businesses based in Torres del Paine, has already sent one shipment of glass bottles to COANIQUEM and is hoping to persuade other organisations within the Park to join the initiative. Projects such as these can only work with the cooperation and support of local people such as Don Ramón Gomez who has provided a plot of land where the bottles can be collected in sufficient quantity before being transported. Although in that lies another problem for the Magallanes area… Recycling is relatively common in Chile but tends to be concentrated in the areas from Puerto Montt northward. South of Puerto Montt the Ice Fields begin, cutting the Magallanes region off from the rest of the country. Many services and initiatives that are well established in the north are not considered viable south of the ice fields. Luckily, the Navimag sails from Puerto Natales to Puerto Montt regularly during the tourist season with cargo space to spare. Thanks to the cooperation of the Navimag, recycling projects such as COANIQUEM’s, can be made reality. Yet Fundación Patagonia does not want to stop there. “We still have to sort out

blacksheepchile@gmail.com

from restaurants, hotels and other businesses within Puerto Natales and ideally from the Torres del Paine National Park as well. If you would like to offer any support or a donation to help acquire the containers, contact Fundación Patagonia at Barros Arana 111, Puerto Natales (tel: +56 61 41 4611). Or tell your hotel or hostel owner about these initiatives and encourage them to join – Carolina would be delighted to provide details of how to get involved in the tin or glass recycling schemes. Ask for her at the Foundation. Being at the end of the world adds additional challenges to getting projects such as these off the ground. Your support can really help these valuable initiatives to become reality so that caring for the environment can become a part of everyday life in Puerto Natales in the future.

✌

Volunteer

❂

Live in Torres del Paine, learn Spanish and help the planet. Please contact Nuestros Senderos at:Email: albergue@lastorres.com Tel: (56)(61) 710 050 Address:Magallanes 960 2ndo piso interio

National Park Torres del Paine was declared a biosphere reserve by the UNESCO in 1978. The status confirms this area as a place where interaction between humans and nature is of special relevance in determining methods of conservation and sustainable development of natural areas. The land that surrounds Fantastico Sur placed in the center of the park, however, has had little if any conservation efforts. This land contains delicate ecosystems and the main trails that lead to valuable landmarks like the Cuernos and Torres. It is every body’s responsibility to take care of the National Park, Torres Del Paine and the neighboring land. This is why Fantastico Sur and Hostería Las Torres has created the program called ‘Our Trails’ designed to minimize the impact of travelers on the environment, while recovering damaged areas. Erosion has taken its toll. We need to recover areas, design appropriate trails to reduce impact, and increase environmental consciousness in visitors and locals. Donations: All contributions are used for materials and tools used in the reconstruction of trails and managing trash near the Hosteria Las Torres and Fantastico Sur. Your help is greatly appreciated. Volunteer program: In order to design paths, create protected areas, inform travelers and rebuild trails according to set standards much work is needed yet funds are limited. A select group of volunteers is being recruited to work for the conservation of one of the worlds greatest treasures. Opportunity Our Trails Exchange Program offers an in depth experience of the Patagonia’s people and land. Living next to the National Park will provide the opportunity to learn Spanish through everyday contact with local people. The lodges are the last bastion of civilization in the midst of the mountains, allowing a profound insight of what Torres del Paine is all about. Accommodations Three meals a day and lodging in one of the lodges is provided by Fantastico Sur Work and play 5 days a week will be destined to conservation efforts, the remaining days will be free time for the volunteers. On personal time, excursions can be organized to walk through the park using accommodation services of FS lodges free of charge. Dates and Duration 1 or 2 months: September and October or April and May are the months the Volunteer program is offered. These are wonderful months of spring and autumn that are ideal for working on paths because there is less transit.

Trekking - Horseback Riding - Birdwatching - Photo Safari - Whale Watching - Kayaking

The penguin connection. Call 221982

14 Downtown Punta Arenas · Magallanes 619 · www.aonikenk.com March 2006

16 Short, but sweet Foxy Foot Fetish? by Kate Newton I did not have three thousand pairs of shoes, I had one thousand and sixty. Imelda Marcos News recently arrived at the Black Sheep office concerning the mysterious disappearance of single shoes from areas of Torres del Paine. An Aussie trekker reported waking one morning to find a left shoe, and a left sandal missing from under the vestibule of his tent at Campamento Los Guardas. After searching and making enquiries, he discovered three other campers were missing a sole shoe. As a result of a theft at Refugio Grey, one German traveler on her first night in the park was committed to finishing the rest of her trek in sandals. So, is there a demand for used shoes on the Puerto Natales black market? Or perhaps we will see the missing collection on ebay

Pebre Chacaneitor

Team S. America

by Miguel Angel Chacana

by Gabriel Antonio Tapia For most people who visit each year, it is nice to walk around the streets of Puerto Natales. The pleasure of enjoying its beautiful landscapes and the services it provides to tourists is known throughout the world. Walking through the town you may have noticed a military presence: uniformed youngsters walking around alone or in groups, and riding in the back of large vehicles. Why they are here? Chile has a Military Service, obligatory for men and voluntary for women once they reach 18 years of age, and have no commitments such as work or study after finishing highschool. During a one year period, the youngsters recieve military training in order to become army reserves. Which means, they are not proper military soldiers, but civilians recruited and prepared to fight should a war begin suddenly. Military Service also provides study opportunities to those who wish to further their education, in a scholastic or professional capacity. For example, you can become qualified in mechanics or hotel management. Enabling recruits to work once they have finished their military training contibutes to the national development of Chile.

sometime soon? Maybe it is a fellow camper with a foot fetish… and space in their backpack? Apparently Conaf are aware of this occurrence, and believe the culprit to be local, four legged, furry, quick and very sly. We’ve nicknamed this foxy beast ‘Imelda’. Black Sheep recommends taking care of your podiatric possessions around Lago Grey, and should you happen to come across Imelda’s den, we would love to know about it.

The youngsters who take part in military training take the title of ‘soldado conscripto’ (conscript soldier), and live in units provided by the army that span the country. In Puerto Natales, we have the Regiment No. 5 Lanceros (Lancers). Some days of the week they are allowed out, on what is called ‘día de franco’ (going out day), and they can take a walk along the streets of this beautiful city to relax and spend time with their families and friends.

Paine Grande Mountain Lodge & Paine Grande Camping Alongside Lago Pehoe with great views of the Paine Mountains.

Lodge, camping, restaurant, cooking facilities, bar, hot showers.

www.

.cl

Perhaps during your stay in Chile you have noticed a piquant sauce served with your meals at restaurants. Try making it yourself with the following recipe: 1⁄2 kg. chili cream (red) 1 cup minced onion. 1 cup minced coriander. 1 spoonful fine minced garlic 1 spoonful red pepper (cut in little pieces) 1 spoonful green pepper (cut in little pieces) Salt, oregano, black pepper and powdered cumin to taste 3 spoonfuls marigold oil. wine vinegar Mix all the ingredients in bowl, adding wine vinegar till the sauce gets a soft slippery texture. Store in a plastic or glass container, in a cool, dry place or in the fridge. Use to spread on bread, sandwich, as a dip for vegetable crudites, all kinds of meat, fish, soups, cheese, and many other meals. WARNING: Avoid leaving the sauce within reach of children under 12, in case of accidentally eating, in this case just sip natural water and breathe normally.

Pisco Sour

by Marcela Suaza Each time you visit a different country, one question always comes to mind: “What’s the food like there?” In Chile, the food is not sophisticated, but it is delicious. There is a wide variety of meats, including lamb, pork, beef, fish, shellfish, and poultry. If you`re lucky enough, you`ll taste guanaco, ñandu, boar, or deer. Of course, you`ll find these dishes in non-traditional restaurants or at family houses or hostels. You`ll also find good, strong drinks. The Chileans have a pisco culture, which means they are very keen on making drinks based on pisco. Pisco Sour 3 parts pisco 1 part lemon juice Icing sugar 1 egg white Ice cubes. Blend the pisco and lemon juice. While blending, add icing sugar to taste, the egg white, and the ice cubes. In a minute, it will be ready to drink. In some families, it is almost a tradition to welcome guests with a toast of pisco sour, so go for it and enjoy!

blacksheepchile@gmail.com

Why the name Patagonia?

In the 16-century, when the Europeans start to explore the distant places in South America, they meet with a race of giant man. Hernando de Magallanes named the south of Chile and Argentina Patagonia in reference to the foots shod with leather moccasins of those giants. In June of 1520, when the fleet commanded by Magallanes anchor in the port of San Julián, in the coast of Argentina, a giant appears in the beach. Cristián Pigafetta, a member of the crew, writes later: “ This man was so tall that our head reach hardly to his waist”. The Magallanes crew achieves to capture two of these giants to take them to Europe, but they died during the trip. In 1578, the British explorer Francis Drake dock again in San Julián, starting a fight with “man really high”, 2.28 meters. During the skirmish he lost one of his man. Later. Other navigators make contact with the giants of the south of the world, contributing this way with the huge documentation about this unique race. Anthony Knyvet pass by the strait of Magellan in 1592, and inform that he not only see the giants, but also find and measure a group of dead bodies in Puerto Deseado, all of them between 3.10 and 3.60 meters. In 1568, Sebald de Weert, saw natives of more of 3 meters in the same region. Later the giants start to disappear. By 1670, a group of studious start to see all the things related with the patagonia giants with suspicion. Two french ships reactivate the controversy when inform that they have see groups of giants mixed with people of normal height in the beach of Bahía de la Posesión. By the same time, the British commodore John Byron, captain of the Dolphin, have a peaceful contact with a tribe of giants in 1764. After anchor in the Strait of Magellan, the crew of the Dolphin saw hundreds of indians. Very slowly, the commodore make contact with them. “One of them, that seems to be the boss, get close to me. He was of giant size and seems to embody the storys of monsters in human form. He carries over the shoulders the skin of a wild animal... I didn’t measure him, but in comparison to me, he was at least 2.50 meters. The woman’s where between 2.28 and 2.48 meters. In the XIX century, the patagones start to shrink. Charles Darwin in his book the voyage of the Beagle write: “During our first visit, in January, we talk in Cabo San Gregorio, with the suppose famous patagones giants. They give us a friendly reception. Their height seems to be more than it really is, because of their big guanaco cloaks, the long and wavy hair, and in general their whole aspect; the average height is 6 foots, 1.82 m, the woman’s are also tall. In general, they are the higher race we have meet during our trip”. We can conjecture that the giants where been mixing with normal people during the century’s, and gradually, generation behind generation, they begin to reduce their size. The British researcher Rupert T. Gould, offer the next in his book Enigmas: “The believers in a living race can still suppose that the man that Byron or Knyvet saw where members of a lost colossus race that still survive in the heart of Patagonia. No one can says that this is impossible in our days. Still most of the southern Chilean Patagonia stays almost inexplore . We must remember that between 1897 and 1898, the discovery in a cave in Ultima Esperanza of bones and hairs in incredible good conditions of an unknown animal, convulse the scientific world. It was named Milodon, and it lives where you are now just a thousand years ago. Who knows if the Patagonia giants are still running free in the deep forests of Patagonia?

Road scholar

As you pass from street to street, be it in Puerto Natales or Punta Arenas, navigating with your trusty street-map, do you ever wonder to yourself why most of the street names are surnames and who these people actually are? Well, names of past Chilean Presidents have provided some, but as well as these guys they also honour people and places with great significance in their historic development. Here are a few principal street names from Puerto Natales. . . LADRILLEROS Juan Ladrilleros was a Spanish sailor who in 1557 was sent by the Spanish government to find a sea exit from the Magellan Straits, west to the Pacific. Due to lack of food, energy and the loss of many men he decided that the voyage into the body of water that surrounds Puerto Natales would be their last hope in reaching their goal; hence the name Ultima Esperanza (Last Hope). Incidentally the Spanish government kept this blunder a secret for over 300 years! O´HIGGINS The Liberator Bernardo O´Higgins together with Jose de San Martin crossed from Argentina with a Chile-Argentine army and finally drove out the Spanish. He restored Chile´s independence and became Chile´s first President in 1818. BLANCO ENCALADA The first Commander of the Chilean Navy, Manuel Blanco Encalada was born in Buenos Aires (1790), but later chose the land of his Chilean mother as his home. A great political figure who was President of the Republic for a mere two months in 1826. BULNES Manuel Bulnes, His military victory over the Bolivian-Peruvian confederation in 1839, secured his personal victory of becoming President of the Republic (1841-1851). ARTURO PRATT A valiant naval captain who died at the Battle of Iquique (1879), when he boarded a Peruvian Ironclad ship (THE HUASCAR), accompanied by only one sergeant. ESMERALDA The name of Capt Arturo Pratt´s ship in the Battle of Iquique. TOMAS ROGERS Juan Tomas Rogers, an English Captain serving in the Chilean Navy, was the first visitor to arrive at Perito Moreno Glaciar. On arrival he named it Francisco Gomaz in honour of the expedition patron. Many years later the Argentineans renamed it in honour of Perito Francisco P. Moreno, an Argentine hydrographer. BAQUEDANO General Manuel Baquedano, defeated Peru at the Battle of Los Angeles (March 1880), captured Arica (May 1880), and later captured Lima (Jan 1881). CHORRILLOS The site of the first battle in the wave to take Lima, Peru (Jan 1881). BALMACEDA José Balmaceda, leader of a liberal anticlerical group prevented Argentina entering the war of the Pacific in 1878. As President of the Republic (1886-91), he introduced a wide reform program which led to civil war. He later March 2006

by Thomas S Daly fled to Argentina where suicide.

committed

EBERHARD Captain Hermann Eberhard was an explorer and first settler of the Province of Ultima Esperanza. He named the hill that overlooks Puerto Natales after his first daughter, DOROTEA; And from his second daughter Sofia, he named Lago SOFIA. In 1892 was it was actually one of his workers who discovered the famous Milodon Cave, where remains of prehistoric animals were found including saber-toothed tigres, camels, deer and of course the Milodon. Today the Eberhard family still live on their estancia at Puerto Consuelo. KRUGER Ricardo Kruger was a government official posted at Puerto Consuelo when the Argentinian warship (The Azopardo) arrived in 1896 to claim the area in the name of Argentina. Kruger declined to lower the Chilean flag and the Argentineans left without fuss. Due to this event the Chilean government populated Puerto Pratt as a warning station for future attempts by the Argentine navy. PILOTO PARDO Captain Luis Pardo was a sailor who risked his life, and those of his men to rescue the 22 castaways from the ENDURANCE (Shackleton Expedition 1915-16). His tugboat “The Yelcho”, had no double hull, no heating, no electric light and no radio. Despite the courageous acts of this man and his crew, Shackleton mentioned Pardo´s name only once in his 386 page book, in the preface! PEDRO MONTT Son of the President Manuel Montt Towers, and who himself became President of the Republic between 1906-1910.

Aquaterra Bulnes 299 Puerto Natales, Chile ph. +56-61-412239 www.aquaterrapatagonia.com - info@aquaterrapatagonia.com

Kooch; el creador de la Patagonia by V. Irribarra

Entre los más hermosos relatos pertenecientes a la cosmovisión del pueblo Aónikenk o Tehuelche (pueblo nómade, cazador y recolector que habitaba la región a la llegada de los Europeos junto con los kaweskar y yamanas de los canales australes y los Selk’nam de Tierra del Fuego), se encuentra el relato de la creación de la Patagonia por manos de Kooch, al cual se debería la existencia de sus inconfundibles elementos... el mar, la luz, el sol, el viento, las nubes y la vida sobre la tierra... este relato nos habla también de la cercana relación de este pueblo con la Patagonia vasta y diversa, dependiendo para su subsistencia de los recursos naturales, animales y vegetales aquí existentes. “...Dicen los antiguos que hace muchísimo tiempo no había tierra, ni mar, ni sol..... Solamente existía la densa y húmeda oscuridad de las tinieblas... En medio de ella vivía, eterno Kòoch. Nadie sabe por que, un día Kòoch, que siempre había estado “bastado a si mismo”, se sintió muy solo y se puso a llorar, lloro tantas lagrimas, durante tanto tiempo que con su llanto formo el mar, el inmenso océano donde la vista se pierde... Cuando Kòoch se dio cuenta de que el agua crecía y que estaba a punto de cubrirlo todo, dejo de llorar y suspiro. Y ese suspiro tan hondo fue el primer viento, que empezó a soplar constantemente, abriéndose paso entre la niebla y la oscuridad, así Kooch creo la luz...Algunos dicen que fue así, por los empujones del viento, que la niebla se disipo, otros creen que en la oscuridad, Kooch levanto el brazo y con su gesto hizo un enorme tajo en las tinieblas. Dicen también que el giro de su mano origino una chispa, y que esa chispa se convirtió en el sol, Xàleshen, como llamaban los tehuelches al gran astro, el cual se levanto sobre el mar e ilumino ese paisaje magnifico. A su vez, Xaleshen formo las nubes, que de allí en masa se pusieron a vagar, incansables, por el cielo matizando el agua con su sombra, pintándola con grandes manchones oscuros... Luego Kòoch se dedico a su obra maestra. Primero hizo surgir del agua una isla muy grande, y luego dispuso allí los animales, los pájaros, los insectos y los peces. Y el viento, el sol y las nubes encontraron tan hermosa la obra de Kòoch que se pusieron de acuerdo para hacerla perdurar: el sol iluminaba y calentaba la tierra, las nubes dejaban caer la lluvia bienhechora, el viento se moderaba para dejar crecer los pastos... la vida era dulce en la pacífica isla de Kòoch. Entonces el creador, satisfecho, se alejo cruzando el mar. A su paso hizo surgir otra tierra cercana y se marcho rumbo al horizonte, de donde nunca mas volvió...” Leyenda Popular del Pueblo Aónikenk Este relato mágico es una invitación de los antiguos para que durante tu estadía en la Patagonia contemples sus hermosos paisajes donde los diferentes elementos se entremezclan caprichosos para entregarnos colores, luces y formas siempre cambiantes...y tal vez la próxima ves que observes la pampa, el mar o las montañas australes recordaras que detrás de ellos esta la benevola mano de Kooch...

18 Classifieds - Puerto Natales, Patagonia de Chile Anuncia, vende, compra, permuta!

en avisos classificados “Black Sheep” Restaurantes, hostales, guias, internet y otros Tarifa Hasta 10 palabras $1000 10 - 20 palabras $2000 20 - 30 palabras $3000

Tia Izzi’s Pizza. Chicken, beef, or veg. $3000 / $4000. Izzi 410317 •

Invisible Fear

Patagonian Tours - Internet service, money exchange, photocopies, private transportation - Blanco Encalada 183 - ph. 413834 - www.patagonian.com - info@patagonian.com

Everyone who has gotten ready to set off on a trip has, before leaving, run through a checklist

Indian Adventure ph 412011 - Bulnes 469 - The best prices in Adventure programs, trekking, guided tours, rental equipment, bikes, transport, horses, kayaking. www.indianadventure.cl

Llámanos al 412239 o envía tus datos y avisos clasificados al email blacksheepchile@gmail.com

internet Cyberplay -Baquedano 480, ph 414229 • Internet - Bulnes 463 - ph 410697 - Open all year 10am-12pm

for sale REI Touring bike Novaro - 24 gears, Soft Ride shocks in handlebar & seat. Ready for touring with front & rear fully waterproof Ortlieb panniers, $600 US ... worldwidewilliams@yahoo.com Jeep Cherokee 1993 model, runs great. $2,000,000. Vero 411851 • Gaitors - climbing or trekking. Outdoor Research, new and used, alll sizes. 15.000 clp ph 410355 • Magellan GPS Sportmap $120.000 Ph. 09-4499075 • Samson Movistar cellphone with 20.000 of talk time ph. 411851 •

Local services Holistic Massage - Barros Arana 176 - ph. 413552 We clean sleeping bags, blankets. Large load $3000. Marcelina 411491 • Taxi Service. $800. Lucas 411491 • Radio taxis ‘El Milodon’ SA - ph. 410426 24 hour service in & out of Puerto Natales Spanish teacher, experienced ph 410317 • Comfort and relax. “Hot Stone Therapy”. $26.000 1 hour. Ph 412239 or 97613736. Bulnes 299 •

which we don’t generally pay much attention. At the moment of departure, we are bound intimately to our luggage. I have a friend who always reminds me that the most danger that we may face on a trip is related to our own experience” on our trip, and that it can become, in a way, our worst companion.

Kawashkar Hostel 414533 - Clean, Close and Hip • Dorm 6.000 or Crashpad 2.500 • Blanco Encalada 754 • Puerto Natales, Patagonia, Chile •

saying, “do this,” “don’t do this,” “this activity is a waste of time,” and “this place isn’t worth

VIP Backpacker, PUNTA ARENAS / DOWNTOWN, Aiken Hosel / for backpackers wanting the best quality offered / dorms with shared bathrooms, cooking facilities, central heating, internet, T.V. lounge (cable & dvd). Errazuriz #612, PH:222629.

We move with big packs on our backs. We have images of National Geographic and prejudices of every kind in our minds, and we hear other voices from other visitors ringing in our ears, it, but this other place is.” With all of these warnings in our minds, we don’t allow ourselves to really connect with the reality of the place, preventing the experience

Hostal Dickson. Private and shared bathrooms. Bulnes 307, ph 411871 patagoniadickson@hotmail.com •

from touching and

Hostel Alma Gaucha - Clean, close and with breakfast ph 410043 •

respect and humility

Magallania Hostel ph. 414950 - Tomas Rogers 255 - Magallania@yahoo.com - accomadations with breakfast

Hostal Ganesha - Arturo Prat 367 - ph 08-7977466 ganesha_residencial@ hotmail.com - Double and triple rooms with shared bathroom & dorms. Breakfast included - Open all year - 24 hour reception.

Alondra Joyas - Lapislazuli, piedras de coleccion, meteoritos, minerales, joyas a pedido. Hecho a mano. Blanco Encalada 216 Fono 09-7102301

Wanted Entertainers, cratfs people, food vendors and vonenterrs - wanted for Big-Rock festival March 25th. Free perticipation. Conyact Erratic Rock @ 410355 We buy and trade climbing, trekking equipment, avalanche gear, snowshoes, crampons, sleeping bags, backpacks and cold weather gear. Contact Errratic Rock 410355 • Baquedano 719 •

Shops Alondra Jewerly - Lapislazuli, rare stones, meteorites, minerals, handmade jewlery & custom jewlery. Blanco Encalada 216 ph. 09-7102301

Please leave no trace blacksheepchile@gmail.com

borders. Despite our best efforts to remember everything, there exists an “invisible fear” to

Hostel for couples - All double rooms, private bath, breakfast in bed, cable tv, free bikes, kitchen facilities, rental discounts, english sppoken. 25.000clp Puerto Natales - 414317 for reservations

Hadas y duendes del bosque patagónico. Consultas y pedidos al 415285. Barros Arana 233 Pto. Natales •

Entertaining table games ...where you can play blackjack, karaoke, international bar, lots, dice, roulette, poker and more. In addition you can play a variety of slot machines without breaking the bank... Enjoy the Puerto Natales nightlife

those days, weeks or months in which we are away, especially once we have crossed foreign

expectations and what we “hope to find,” “hope to see,” “hope to make” and “hope to

clasificados en español

Bories 314 Ph +56 61 411834

either mentally or physically. We don’t want to forget anything that will be necessary during

Accommodation

Hostel Bulnes - Rooms with private bathrooms - Private parking - Cable TV - Heating - Breakfast - Tourism info. Manuel Bulnes 407 ph/fax 411307 www.hostalbulnes.com

by V. Irribarra

transforming us, with to those who are around us. This kills the chance to enrich ourselves with the experience of what we find in our steps. A destination is never just a place. It is a new way to see new things and to see the world. If we really want to cross the border, we must be aware of this fear and allow ourselves to be open, free, and flexible. In this way, maybe at the end of our journey, we can answer questions about our journey by saying that we walked in the town, stayed longer than we planned, played with children, spoke with older people, had coffee alone, spent hours sitting on a train thinking about how life goes by, found love, thought about settling down, and dreamed about coming back. In this way, we will have converted the “invisible fear” into visible experiences, real and unforgettable.

Torres del Paine climbing permits by Sarah Rutter As well as its stunning scenery and magical

that your climbing expedition runs as smoothly

aware of the bus times – if you’re planning

tated on the marked trails without charge, it

atmosphere, the Torres del Paine National Park

as possible, here’s what you need to do...

to climb Las Torres you’ll start from Laguna

does not have the resources to rescue those who

also offers some outstanding climbing oppor-

Amarga which is up to 2 hours from the Admi-

undertake dangerous sports off the marked trails

tunities and for any discerning climber it has

Get DIFROL approval. This is obligatory for

nistration Centre and the buses run just twice a

– you do that at your own risk

to be up there on the “one day” list of climbing

any non-national wishing to climb or mountai-

day, or you can hitch.

and expense.

expeditions.

neer in any frontier zone of Chile

At the Administration Centre, you will need to

(it does not include trekking or walking) and

provide the name of your Expedition (so if you

You will be given a copy of the CONAF permit,

The most popular climbs in the Park are the

you can obtain it even before you leave home.

don’t have a name already, think up something

which you need to take to the Ranger station

three granite peaks that make up the Torres del

DIFROL authorisation is free of charge.

impressive before you arrive!) and all the docu-

of the first sector in which you are planning

Paine – the Towers of Paine, ie Torre Norte at

Check the DIFROL website (www.difrol.cl)

mentation mentioned above.

to climb (if you’re heading first to the Torres,

2,600m, Torre Central (2,800m), and Torre Sur

for its conditions and recommendations.

(2,850m). Cerro Fortaleza at 2,688m presents a

Download the application form for your expe-

The insurance documents are vital - you will

Amarga Ranger station, if you are climbing Los

different challenge as the granite gives way to

dition from the DIFROL website. Once on the

not get your permit without them. The permit

Cuernos, Aleta de Tiburón or any of the central

sedimentary rock from around 2,000m. You can

Home Page, click on “Autorización de Expe-

is required for your own protection in the case

peaks, you’ll need to visit the Ranger station

also climb Los Cuernos – the Horns of Paine –

diciones” to get to the form. You can apply for

of an emergency – if you have an accident

at Pehoé). CONAF will nominate a Park ranger

the other best-known image of the Park, whose

DIFROL permission either directly to a regional

CONAF needs to know firstly where you are,

as the main contact for your expedition with

formation is similar to Cerro Fortaleza: Cuerno

government office in Chile or via

and also that you have the insurance cover in

whom you should stay in contact through

Norte (2,400m), Cuerno Principal (2,600m) and

the Chilean Consulate in your own country.

place to meet the costs of any rescue operation

the duration of your climbing, so that they can

needed. Whilst CONAF Park rangers will assist

monitor your safety and know when

anyone who is injured or otherwise incapaci-

you leave.

Cuerno Este (2,200m). In addition, the impressively formed Aleta de Tiburón (the Shark’s

If you arrive in Puerto Natales without DIFROL

Fin) at 1,717m presents another challenge.

permission, you’ll need to visit the Regional

you’ll have to present yourself at the Laguna

Government offices in town, which are Monte Almirante Nieto (2,640m) offers a

on C. Eberhard and C. Tomas Rogers. Telepho-

potentially less technical climb, if the weather

ne: 411423.

is good, though you still need some climbing experience to attempt it. In poor weather, the

Once in the area in which you want to climb,

climb is technically considerably more difficult.

you need to report to the Carabineros de Chile

ANGELIC A´S Res taurant 5 3 2 Eb e rh ard , p h 410365

(the National Police). For climbing in the Park, Paine Grande, which comprises Punta Barilo-

there are Carabineros either at Cerro Castillo

che, Cumbre Central, Cumbre Norte and Cum-

or at the Administration Centre, so that they

bre Principal, the highest peak in the Park at

can check your authorisation and that you are

3,050m, involves a combination of ice and rock

adequately equipped for your expedition.

climbing and is very susceptible to the vagaries of the Patagonian weather.

Then you will need CONAF permission, which is granted by the Park Administrator, so when

Depending on your level of skill and appetite

you leave for the Park, make sure you take

for a challenge, all the peaks in the park can

with you:

be climbed, so there is no danger of running

• Your DIFROL approval

out of options.

• The passport of every member of your group

Come and find a Medit e r ranean me nu 19 w it h e x ce lle nt se r v ice and a war m at mosp h e re

• Insurance policy details, including name and

For any climbing expeditions in the Park you

address of the insurer, policy number and a

need to fulfil all the necessary conditions set not

contact telephone number, of every member

only by CONAF (the Chilean National Forestry

of your group or for the expedition as a whole.

Corporation which administers the Park) but

• Details of your route(s) and intended timescale.

also by DIFROL (Dirrección de Fronteras y Limites del Estado), the national body which con-

To obtain permission from CONAF, you have

trols and monitors any scientific, climbing or

to visit the Administration Centre in the Park.

mountaineering expedition by foreigners along

The permit is free of charge and given willin-

Chile’s frontiers. Torres del Paine National Park

gly by CONAF, provided that you have all the

is right on the border with Argentina and so any

necessary documentation with you.

such expeditions in

Plan a trip to the Administration Centre into

the Park are monitored by DIFROL. To ensure

your timetable to avoid frustration, and be

March 2006

20 Puerto Natales Map and Phone Numbers Emergency

Navimag

Ambulance Fire Police Sea + Air Rescue Hospital P.Arenas Hospital P.Natales

131 132 133 137 205000 411582

Consulates Australia Canada Germany Netherlands South Africa United Kingdom

(02) 5503600 (02) 3629660 (02) 4632560 (02) 2236825 (02) 2312862 (02) 3704100

Regular Bus

Punto Arenas Puerto Montt Puerto Natales

244400 (65) 432300 411642

Andescape Bus Fernandez Bus Pacheco Bus Sur Cootra Gomez JB Zaahj

Airlines DAP Lan Chile

223340 6005262000

Sky Airlines

6006002828 Tourism

Airports Pucon Puerto Montt Punta Arenas Santiago

CONAF Museum Municipal Sernatur info

(45) 554800 (65) 294161 (61) 211731 (02) 6901752

Welcome to Puerto Natales $

li hi .P

10 20 14

25 19 12 15 29

27 05

Chorrillos

B. Zamora

Balmaceda

Galvarino

E. Ramirez

Baquedano

B. Encalada

Esmeralda

A. Prat

30 02

Magallanes

P. Montt

O’Higgins

C. Pinto

Ladrilleros

M. Bulnes

Valdivia

B. Zamora

Eberhard

g Oui tdo -Ro or Fest ck iva l

T. Rogers

Magallanes

B. Arana Bories

NAVIMAG

411438 411263 412125

Punta Arenas Rio Turbio, Argentine trekking Dorotea

Torres del Paine Cerro Castillo Milodon Cave Puerto Prat Puerto Bories

412877 411111 414513 411859 412785 415700 412824 412260

1.............................................erratic rock 2 .............................................Aquaterra 3 ..................................Express Rentacar 4 .....................................Patagoni Dulce 5 ..............................................La Repizza 6................................................Big Foot 7 ........................................Taller del Arbol 10...............................................El Living 11...................................Milodon Laundry 12 ............................................21 de Mayo 13 ............................................Worlds End 14 ........................................ Chile Nativo 15 ..................................................Nañdu 19 .............................................Angelicas 20 ...........................Emporio de la Pampa 22.................................Kawashkar 23.....................................Hostel Alcazar 24.............................................Casino 25....................................Mesita Grande 26................................Patagonia Hostel 27........................................Path@gone 28.....................................Errratic Rock II 29.........................................Municipality 30.........................................Museum 31.......................................Weskar Lodge 32.........................Puerto Bories Museum

Miraflores 22

Yungay blacksheepchile@gmail.com

23 28