Moscow In Your Pocket Aug/Sep 2014 by Russia In Your Pocket

Maps Events Restaurants CafĂŠs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Moscow August - September 2014

Sergiev Posad More than 10 years in Russia!

inyourpocket.com NÂ°34

Simplicity, Spirituality and stunning sights!

Moscow theatre life Theatres for one and all. Take yourself to new theatric heights.

Contents E S S E N TI A L C I TY G U I D E S

Foreword

In the News

Arrival & Getting Around

Public transport

City Basics

Language

Culture & Events 10 Concerts and exhibitions Sport news Gogol House

10 16 18

Pushkinskaya Embankment, Gorky Park Pier

Where to stay 55

Interview with concierge 19 Shopping Moscow Theatre life 19 Raketa Watches Sergiev Posad 24 Russian souvenirs Kaluga 54

Features

Where to eat Russian summer menu Interview with the chef Summer terraces Restaurants outside the city

32 33 36 40 42

Nightlife

Dance and drink the night away

What to see The Kremlin River cruises Modern art centres Gorky Park

48 48 49 51 52

ul. Pokrovka 27 www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Business

56 58 58 59 61

Expat & Lifestyle 63 The Expat Experience

Maps & Index Metro map City map Street index

67 68 72

St. Petersburg

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every day 10:00 - 21:00 August - September 2014

Foreword

In the News

Every day in Moscow is a surprise, you never know how it’s going to end. That’s exactly what makes this city so unique. There are so many things to do whilst it’s still warm, where do we even begin? You can spend your days lounging in parks, dining out late on romantic summer terraces, cycling or segwaing along the Moskva river banks or eating icecream or shashlyks. Despite what anyone tells you, summer will always be the best time to enjoy the capital. “Follow the Moskva down to Gorky Park, listening to the wind of change...” sang the Scorpions in 1990. Almost 25 years on, the winds of change have definitely arrived to Gorky Park, making it one of Moscow’s most spectacular summer spots. Check out our special feature on page 25-26 and find out just about everything that’s possible in this amazing place. Regular readers may notice that our guide has put on a little weight. Well, we’ve added eight delightful pages dedicated to Sergiev Posad, a beautiful, small town located only an hour and a half from Moscow. When the heat really starts to rise in August, for many the weekends are made for getting out of the city and Sergiev Posad is the perfect destination. The ensemble of the famous Holy Trinity St. Sergiev Lavra is one of the most visually striking monasteries in Russia and one that holds great importance for Russian history. Nonetheless, if you decide to stay in town, you need to make the most of your time! Almost everybody in the Moscow In Your Pocket team is in love with the theatre, so we decided to add one more special feature on theatres in Moscow (see pages 19-23). Theatre plays such a huge role in Russian culture and if you spend some time in Moscow you’ll soon find out why! Ksenia Elzes, Russia In Your Pocket.

E S S E N TI A L

Moscow In Your Pocket C I TY G U I D E S founded and published by OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket. Russia, 196084 St. Petersburg, Ul. Tsvetochnaya 25A. tel: +7 (812) 448 88 65, fax: +7 (812) 448 88 64, russia@inyourpocket.com, russia.inyourpocket.com Publisher Bonnie van der Velde, bonnie@inyourpocket.com General director Tanya Skvortsova, tanya@inyourpocket.com Director Sales&Strategy Jerke Verschoor, jerke@inyourpocket.com Managing Editor Ksenia Elzes, ksenia@inyourpocket.com Researcher Wabke Waaijer, research.mos@inyourpocket.com Design Malvina Markina, design.russia@inyourpocket.com Contributors Andy Potts, Maria Stambler, Chris Jones, Ankur Shah Sales Manager Natalia Murgo, natalya@inyourpocket.com Customer Service Manager Tanya Kharitonova, sales.russia@inyourpocket.com Copyright notice Text and photos copyright OOO Krasnaya Shapka 2003-2014. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket. Editor’s note The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. We welcome all readers‘ comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.

Cover story

© OOO Krasnaya Shapka/In Your Pocket © Maps: J.J. van der Molen, www.jobvandermolen.nl Published 6 times per year with supplements, No 34, 01.08.2014, 60 000 copies. For children aged 16 years and over.

On the cover you can see stunning churches of the Trinity Lavra of St. Sergius in Sergiev Posad. Check out our special feature on pages 24-31.

About IYP We have come a long way in the 22 years since we published the first In Your Pocket guide - to Vilnius in Lithuania - so much so that we are today the largest publisher of locally-produced city guides in the world.

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4 Moscow In Your Pocket

GEORGIA

The recent publication of a guide to the islands of the Dutch Caribbean - our first in the Western Hemisphere - has taken the number of guides published each year by In Your Pocket to well over five million, spread across more than 100 cities on three continents. And there is more to come: make sure you keep up with all that’s new at In Your Pocket by liking us on Facebook (facebook.com/inyourpocket) or following us on Twitter (twitter.com/ inyourpocket). moscow.inyourpocket.com

Maestro Pletnev

shop in the museum

This year’s RNO Festival presents three sides of the work of Mikhail Pletnev – pianist, conductor and composer. Pletnev has been one of the big names of Russian classical music for decades, first shooting to fame as a performer before taking up the baton and becoming the principal conductor of the Russian National Orchestra. Meanwhile his skills as a composer are less well-known, but will be showcased in a jazz-themed evening on Sep. 8 when Pletnev’s Viola Concerto and his Jazz Suite are on the program alongside Gershwin’s Rhapsody in Blue. Other highlights of the festival include concert performances of two operas, Rossini’s Tancredi and Rimsky-Korsakov’s May Night, while Pletnev also plays Mozart on September 6 and conducts a Verdi Gala to end the festival on September 28. All the concerts will be held in the Tchaikovsky Concert Hall. www.russiannationalorchestra.org

Are you always at the lookout for these Soviet souvenirs, but want to make sure you find the right ones, then this is your place. Rare items from back when the country was hidden behind an Iron Curtain are on sale here, including stamps, postcards and posters with the popular Soviet – we can do it – slogans. Next to the fun items, such as fridge magnets, tea spoons and calendars, there is a large collection with scientific literature about Russian history and on the museum of Contemporary Russian History too, with which it shares the entrance by the way. If you are a professional collector, make sure to have a look at their extensive online shop!QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 16 95, www.philatelist.ru.

Happy birthday, Moscow The first weekend of September is when Moscow celebrates its City Day, commemorating the foundation of the city by Yury Dolgoruky in 1147. Many of the squares downtown are transformed into performance venues or markets, while the parks also host a range of activities to suit all ages. Oddly, though, the official date of the city’s foundation is April 4. Why is the current celebration in September? Well, when the city marked its 800th birthday in 1947, Stalin decided to hold the official celebrations on Sep. 7. The festivities back then including laying the foundation stones for the ‘Seven Sisiters’, the grand Stalinist skyscrapers that still dominate Moscow’s skyline. The tradition has stuck, and since 1986 it’s been an annual event.

School starts The start of September brings regiments of immaculately dressed youngsters clutching bunches of flowers – it can only mean the start of the school year. September 1 is Russia’s ‘Day of Knowledge’, as the old school bell rings once more to welcome the new intake of 7-year-olds to the magical – and occasionally alarming – world of formal education. It’s a day for perfect school uniforms and presents for the teacher while tearful parents proudly wave their kids off on one of the first great milestones of life. Мoсква В Твоем Кармане Учредитель и издатель ООО «Красная Шапка» Адрес редакции и издателя: Россия, 196084 Санкт-Петербург Ул. Цветочная д. 25, лит. А. тел. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65 факс: + 7(812) 448 88 64 Главный редактор Бонни ван дер Велде Цена свободная. Для детей старше 16 лет.

Отпечатано ООО “Келла Принт”, 191024, Санкт-Петербург, ул. Тележная, д. 17. Заказ No26829 Свидетельство о регистрации средства массовой информации Пи No. 2-6849 от 17.10.03 выдано Северо-Западным региональным управлением комитета РФ по печати. Тираж 60 000 экз. No34. 01.08.2014

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60 years of Leningradsky One of Moscow’s most prestigious hotels, the Hilton Leningradsky, celebrates its 60th birthday in October. It is in one of the Stalinist ‘Seven Sisters’, conveniently close to the Leningradsky, Yaroslavsky and Kazansky rail stations, and has long been known as one of the best places to stay in the city. Although it is the smallest of the seven skyscrapers that sprung up after the war, it is the most distinctive, eschewing the classical forms of its siblings and combining elements of the gothic and the baroque as well as ancient Russian features. In 2008 it became the first Hilton hotel in Russia, and was carefully renovated to its original glory to offer guests a chance to be part of a living museum of a bygone age.

Reserve a Table Have you ever wished you could reserve a table at popular Moscow restaurants more easily and conveniently? Moscow In Your Pocket and company Leclick have made the perfect solution for you. You can now make restaurant reservations direct from our website. Click on the blue “Reserve a table” button when you open up a restaurant page for Moscow In Your Pocket and quickly fill out the form. It only takes a few seconds to click a couple of buttons and send the reservation through. The booking system will then reserve the table for you (if available) and send you confirmation of the reservation via an SMS text message in English! August - September 2014

Arriving & Getting Around Moscow is famous for its red walls, its snowy winters and its excellent public transport system. Although it is home to over 12 million people, Moscow’s public transportation has been hailed as being amongst the best and most efficient in the world. Whether it is bus, tram, underground, trolley bus, marshrutka (fixed route minibuses) or train, the prices are cheap, the journey is brief and despite the severe weather that hits Moscow, virtually always on time and in service. And if public transport is not for you, simply stick out your arm and you will have a choice of 3 or 4 taxis within seconds. You will never find yourself without a method of getting from A to B in Moscow!

Aeroexpress Trains The most reliable way of travelling to and from airports in Moscow is by Aeroexpress. Aeroexpress trains run between Belorussky Rail Terminal and Sheremetyevo (SVO) airport, Kievsky Rail Terminal and Vnukovo (VKO) airport, and Paveletsky Rail Terminal and Domodedovo (DME) airport. Each rail terminal is connected via the metro circle line. It takes 35 – 45 minutes to get to the airports from the centre of Moscow. Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroexpress ticket counters or at automatic machines in the rail terminals, through the websites of partner airlines, travel agencies, and via air ticket agencies, either in Moscow, or indeed almost any other region of Russia. A list of sales outlets can be found on the company’s website, where you can also buy an electronic ticket: www. aeroexpress.ru. Download their free mobile app and you will be able to purchase Aeroexpress tickets using your smartphone with no need to print out the ticket: the turnstiles at the airport are able to read the ticket’s QR-code directly from your smartphone/tablet screen. If you are a Master Card PayPass or VISA PayWave holder, you can easily pay for the fare directly at the turnstiles Aeroexpress. The Aeroexpress hotline is (+7) 800 700 33 77 (calls from within Russia are free).

6 Moscow In Your Pocket

Arriving & Getting Around Arriving by plane Moscow’s three main airports are Sheremetyevo located in the north, Domodedovo in the south east and Vnukovo in the south west. The Aeroexpress train is by the far the fastest and most reliable way to get in to the city centre, dropping passengers off at the metro circle line in just 35 - 45 minutes. Night time arrivals (the Aeroexpress is closed between 00:30 and 05:00) will be at the mercy of taxi drivers so it is advisable to pre-book a taxi or transfer, to save yourself being ripped off by the touts. Remember that when taking a taxi from the airport to the centre that 1,800 2,000Rbl is a standard fare, do not let the taxi touts intimidate you with talk of 4,000Rbl rides. Around 1,800Rbl is reasonable. If you withdraw cash in the airport, be aware that ATM’s often dispense 1,000Rbl notes. As taxi drivers can not be depended on to have change, if you want to avoid giving them a hefty tip, try to obtain some change in the terminal beforehand.

Arriving by train Arriving in Russia by rail is a great experience whether you are coming from east or west, Moscow’s many train stations are always bustling with travelers about to embark on long journeys.Those arriving very early in the morning to the stations around Komsomolskaya ploschad (Leningradsky, Kazansky and Yaroslavsky - usually hubs for travel from central Siberia, the Urals and St. Petersburg) would be advised to get a taxi rather than wait for the metro to open as the area can be rather dangerous at night. Belorussky Station Trains go from here to Berlin, Warsaw, Minsk, Vilnius and Kaliningrad. This station sends trains to Sheremetyevo Airport via the Aeroexpress train.QA-1, Tverskaya Zastava pl. 7, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 251 60 93, www. belorusskiy.railclient.ru. Kazansky Station Gateway to the East, trains run to Kazan, Tashkent, Samara, Ulan-Ude and beyond.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl. 2, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 499 266 31 81, www. kazanskiy.railclient.ru. Kievsky Station As well as to Kiev, trains leave to Odessa, Budapest, Bucharest and Kishenev. This station sends trains to Vnukovo Airport via the Aeroexpress train.QА-4, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala 1, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 499 240 04 15, www. kievskiy.railclient.ru. Kursky Station Local trains depart from the right hand side of the station. QE-2/3, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 29, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 266 53 10, www.kursky-vokzal.ru. Leningradsky Station Hub for trains going north to Helsinki, Tallinn and St. Petersburg.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl, 3, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 495 262 91 43, www.leningradskiy.railclient.ru. moscow.inyourpocket.com

Paveletsky Station This station sends trains to Domodedovo Airport via the Aeroexpress train.QD-5, Paveletskaya pl. 1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 235 05 22, www.paveleckiy.railclient.ru. Rizhsky Station You’ll come here if you are heading to Riga or elsewhere in Latvia.QD-5, Rizhskaya pl. 1, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 631 15 88, www.rijskiy.railclient.ru. Yaroslavsky Station The starting point for Trans-Siberian adventures, trains go to Beijing, Ulan Bator and Siberian destinations such as Irkutsk on Lake Baikal and Russia’s most easterly destination Vladivostok.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl. 5, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 800 775 00 00.

Public Transport The quickest method of public transport in Moscow is the metro. With no more than 3 minutes passing between each train, passengers barely get a chance to marvel at the beautiful architecture inside many stations. Buying a ticket is very easy, either a single from the automatic machine, or multiple rides from the ticket office. Tickets cost 40Rbl, although buying in bulk is cheaper (11 for 300Rbl). On the more modern trains, there is an electonicr sign in each carrige, announcing which station the train is approaching. However in the older carriages, it is simply a voice over, which can be difficult to hear in rush hour, so for those who aren’t familiar with Moscow’s many stations, it is best to count the number of stops you need to go. Trams, buses and trolleybuses all use the same tickets as the metro. tramlines run all over the city and are very easy to navigate, though perhaps slightly less punctual than the metro. Buses and trolleybuses are also very straightforward, with the routes and destinations displayed in the windows and an electronic, scrolling banner with the name of the next stop inside, Last but not least: marshrutkas. A marshrutka may take some getting used to for a new comer to Moscow. What can look like slightly dodgy minibuses are actually a legitimate form of transport with fixed routes. Passengers can ask the driver to stop by shouting “ostanovite pazhalsta!” anywhere along the route to let them out. The average cost is 30Rbl - be sure to have some small change on you when taking a marshrutka as a driver will not take kindly to a 1000Rbl note!

Car Rental Avis Russia Car Rental AVIS has offices in Sheremetyevo and Domodedovo airports, as well as at Leningradsky Railway station and on 4-y Dobryninsky per. 8, office 122 (near metro station Oktyabrskaya).Qtel. (+7) 495 988 62 16, www.avisrussia.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Hertz Hertz has 11 rental locations in Moscow, including an outlet at Sheremetyevo-1,2, Vnukovo and Domodedovo airports operating from 09:00 - 21:00. It’s possible to collect a car outside of these hours, it incurs additional charges. Qtel. (+7) 495 775 83 33, www.hertz.ru. A www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Taxis Taxis in Moscow can be relatively cheap compared to other Western capitals. If you phone a legitimate taxi company, you’ll be quoted an exact price for the journey. Angel Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 956 08 00, www.angel-taxi.com English-speaking operators and drivers in Moscow’s premier 24/7 taxi dispatching per-km service with over 1300 drivers in Moscow. New Moscow Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 780 67 80, www.newmoscowtaxi.ru New Yellow Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 940 88 88, www.nyt.ru TaxiEscort, tel. (+7) 495 622 20 20, www.taxiescort.ru Taxi Shanson, tel. (+7) 495 225 31 31, www.tshanson.ru XXL taxi, tel. (+7) 495 995 82 94, www.xxltaxi.ru It’s also accepted practice to hail down random cars and negotiate even cheaper prices for rides across the city. To indicate you’re looking for a lift, stick out your arm - palm down. To foreigners, the practice may seem unsafe and it is advisable to take caution by traveling with a companion and generally trusting your instinct. Mostly, drivers are notorious for overcharging foreigners. A journey within the city centre should cost between 250-500Rbl. Always agree to a price in advance (‘Skolko?’) and if the driver refuses, slam the door and move on to the next Lada.

Odin bilet - One ticket Dva bileta - Two tickets August - September 2014

City Basics

Language Be on guard!

useful phrases

Avoid attracting unwanted attention by not speaking loudly in your mother tongue, or walking the streets if you have been drinking. If you are of African, Arab, or Asian descent or have dark skin exercise caution, particularly at night.

Basic frases No/Yes Hello Goodbye Thank you Sorry/excuse me Please I don't understand I don't speak Russian Do you speak English? Help! I need some help I don't want

Moscow Tourist Helpline (English) (+7) 800 220 00 02.

Registration Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24 hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you. If you don’t get registered on time, you can expect serious problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while officials interrogate you.

Money The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a rouble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. It’s illegal to pay in dollars or euros. Find ATMs at most metro stations, banks and large hotels.

Foreigner Prices The ‘foreigner price’ is a hangover from the good old days of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and museums, foreigners are required to pay two to five times more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the ‘real price.’ If you have a document (propusk), which says you work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price.

Climate Moscow is usually baking in August and many locals head away to their country homes to escape the heat of the city, so make sure you stay hydrated and give yourself some time under the shade of a tree in the park. September is usually a lovely warm and sunny month and often ends in an Indian summer. Don’t forget your sunglasses!

Customs For most travellers leaving Russia you will just need to go to the GREEN (nothing to declare) channel and you do NOT need to complete the ‘Customs and Currency Declaration Statement’ upon arrival or departure (unless you are carrying thousands of dollars in cash with you). Any art works, icons etc that are over 100 years old cannot be taken out of the country. If you are in doubt about antiques you have bought get an ‘expert’s report,’ either from the Rosokhrankultura (Kitaigorodsky pr. 7, bldg. 2, tel. (+7) 495 660 77 30) or an accredited shop. Travelling to most countries you can legally take 200 cigarettes and 2 litres of hard alcohol out with you. To some countries such as Estonia, the allowance is less.

Mobile Phones You can use your mobile phone from home if your provider has a roaming agreement with a Russian mobile company. To avoid roaming charges, you can get a Russian SIM card. You’ll need to bring your passport to the store to register your new sim card.

Alcohol The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka. The Poles may also claim that they invented it, but what is certain is that the Russians - and in particular the scientist Mendeleev - are the ones who perfected the recipe. Vodka is cheap and there are literally hundreds of brands to choose from. The most traditional way to drink it is straight as a shot, followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the most popular alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovietskoye shampanskoye (Soviet champagne) is the national party drink. Take note that you cannot buy alcohol in shops that is above 0,5% between 22:00 and 11:00.

Temparature, oC Rainfall, mm

Post

Rain (max) Highest recorded temperature (oC)

8 Moscow In Your Pocket

Average temperature (oC) Lowest recorded temperature (oC)

Only believe half the stories you hear about Russia’s post system. Mail may get detoured, but usually not lost. If you need to get something in or out of the country in a hurry, consider a courier service. A letter to Europe or Australia takes around three weeks. In addition to these offices below, you can also buy stamps from any post office in Moscow and drop them into any dark blue post box around the city. moscow.inyourpocket.com

pocket dictionary: Pervoklassnik Everyone remembers their first day at school, and for Russian Pervoklassniki (first-graders) it’s always a big event. All across the city, anxious seven-year-olds are marched to the shkola (school), typically clutching tsvety (flowers) or similar podarky (presents) for the uchitel (teacher). Once in class, it’s time to meet your odnoklassniki (schoolmates, and also the name of one of Russia’s most popular online social networks), and being a school career hopefully filled with znaniya (knowledge), druzhba (friendship) and uspekh (success).

alphabet А Б В Г Д Е Ё Ж

A B V G D E YO ZH

З И Й К Л М Н О

Z I Y K L M N O

П Р С Т У Ф Х Ц

P R S T U F KH TS

Ч Ш Щ Ы Э Ю Я Ъ, Ь

CH SH SHCH Y E YU YA no sound

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Net/da Zdrastvuite Dasvidaniya Spasibo Izvinite Pazhalusta Ya ne panimayu Ya ne gavaryu pa-russky Vy gavaritye pa-anglisky? Pomogitye! Mne nuzhna pomoshch Ya ne khachu Mnye (ne) I (don't) like it nravitsa May I? Mozhno? Do you have...? U vas est…? I don't know Ya ne znayu How much is it? Skolko stoit? It's expensive! Eta dorogo! Bolshoy/ Large/small malenky Khorosho/ Good/bad plokho It hurts! Bolno! Today Sevodnya Tomorrow Zaftra Could you write Zapishite it down? pazhalusta Toilets Tualet Ostanavite Stop here please pazhalusta When? At what Kogda? Vo time? skolko? What time is it? Katory chas? Who? Kto? How do you say Kak skazat eto that in Russian? pa-russky? No problem Bez problem Of course Koneshno Happy Holidays! S Praznikom! Password Parol

Нет/Да Здравствуйте До свидания Спасибо Извините Пожалуйста Я не понимаю Я не говорю по-русски Вы говорите по-английски? Помогите! Мне нужна помошь Я не хочу Мне (не) нравится Можно? У вас есть...? Я не знаю Сколько стоит? Это дорого! Большой/ маленкий Хорошо/ плохо Больно! Сегодня Завтра Запишите, пожалуйста Туалет Остановите, пожалуйста Когда? Во сколько? Который час? Кто? Как сказать это по-русски? Без проблем Конечно С праздником! Пароль

August - September 2014

Culture & Events

Culture & Events Moscow can be considered as the birthplace of Tchaikovsky, Tolstoy, Stanislavsky, Chekhov, Bulgakov and co. – they all took their inspiration from this magical and majestic place. Live music from local and international performers is another big part of the cultural landscape of the city and on a lighter note, contemporary Moscow also sees the running of high heeled road races, honey festivals, air-guitar competitions and other curious events.

concert halls and clubs Arena Moscow QLeningradsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 940 67 55, www.arenagroup.ru. Crocus City Hall QMKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.crocus-hall.ru. Luzhniki Stadium QLuzhniki 24, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 02 62, www.luzhniki.ru. Moscow Conservatory, the Great Hall QB-3, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 13/6, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 94 01, www.mosconsv.ru. Moscow Philarmonic Society QB-1, Ul. Tverskaya 31/4, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 04 00, www.meloman.ru. SK Olimpisky QС-1, Olimpisky pr. 16, MPr. Mira, tel. (+7) 495 786 33 33, www.olimpik.ru. Stadium Live QLeningradsky pr. 80, bldg. 17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 540 55 40, www.stadium-live.ru. State Kremlin Palace QC-3, Ul. Vozdvizhenka 1, MBiblioteka im. Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 628 52 32, gkd-kremlin.ru.

theatres Bolshoi Theatre QC-2, Teatralnaya pl. 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 499 455 55 55, www.bolshoi.ru. Helikon-Opera QB-3, Ul. Novy Arbat 11, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 65 84, www.helikon.ru. Maly Theatre QС-2, Teatralny proezd 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 624 40 46, www.maly.ru. UK Mayakovsky Theatre QB-3, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 19/13, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 46 58, www.mayakovsky.ru. Moon Theatre QD-5, Ul. Malaya Ordynka 31, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 13 17, www.lunatheatre.ru. Moscow English Theatre Qwww.moscowenglishtheatre.com. Different performance venues, check the website for details. Sovremennik Theatre QE-2, Chistoprudny bul. 19А,, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 621 64 73, www.sovremennik.ru. 10 Moscow In Your Pocket

Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko Moscow Music Theatre QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 17, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 723 73 25, www.stanmus.ru. Taganka Theatre QE-4, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 76/21, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 12 17, www.taganka.theatre.ru. Vakhtangov Theatre QB-3, Ul. Arbat 26, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 241 16 79, www.vakhtangov.ru.

04.08 Monday 20:00 The Matrixx After close to two decades of hit-making with Agata Kristy, Gleb Samoilov reached a career crossroads - creatively, personally and politically. While his brother and bandmate Vadim earned a reputation for cozying up to Russia’s authorities, Gleb preferred a more critical view of contemporary Russia, and upped to form a new band of his own, The Matrixx. The provocative glam-rockers have managed to annoy almost everyone at some point, while still assembling a new generation of fans who are largely distinct from the old Agata Kristy fanbase. Samoilov is celebrating his birthday with an acoustic show in the intimate surroundings of 16 Tons, a chance to recall his creative talent as much as his flair for controversy.QA-2, 16 Tonn, Ul. Presnensky Val 6, bldg. 1, MUlitsa 1905 goda, tel. (+7) 499 253 15 50, www.thematrixx.ru. Tickets 1,500 - 3,500Rbl.

August events 02.08 Saturday - 03.08 Sunday 15:00 Time to Tango The sultry rhythms of the tango, filled with mystery, have long since outgrown their Buenos Aires origins and become a global phenomenon. The dance has become part of big city life, its beat echoing through the people who throng the great metropolises of the world. And while Russia and Argentina may seem at first glance to have little in common, the great Latin dance was also a huge hit here in Soviet times when musicians like Pyotr Leshchenko gave it a distinctly Russian accent of its own. Local stars and international experts combine for a ‘Weekend - Tango Style’ at Tsaritsyno on August 2-3. The event includes performances, workshops with experienced teachers, a flashmob and a literary and musical program exploring the history and passion behind this legendary move. Tickets for concerts in the palace’s concert halls cost 500r; outdoor performances are free of charge.QTsaritsyno, Dolskaya ul. 1, MOrekhovo, tel. (+7) 495 321 63 66, www. tsaritsyno-museum.ru. 02.08 from 15:00 - 22:00, 03.08 from 14:00 till 19:10. Tickets 150 - 1,000Rbl for concerts inside the palace. Concerts in the open air are free.

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20.08 Wednesday 20:00 The Glitch Mob The Glitch Mob stands at the forefront of LA’s EDM scene, but unlike many of the boffins of this subculture, the band is determined to produce live shows that live up to the standards of traditional rock gigs. Back on tour after a three-year break, and promoting this year’s release, ‘Love Death Immortality’, this slimmed-down mob - now a trio instead of a five-piece - continues to bridge the gap between computerized sound and a proper stage show. The music ranges widely across a bunch of styles while the on-stage action takes the band well beyond the usual confines of knob-twiddling beneath an Apple-generated animated backdrop. If you don’t believe a laptop has a role to play at a gig, The Glitch Mob might just change your mind.QGlavclub, ul. Ordzhonikidze 11, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 230 10 30, www.theglitchmob. com. Tickets 1,500 - 3,500Rbl.

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September events 06.09 Saturday 20:00 Apollo Brown/Ugly Heroes Detroit might be notoriously bankrupt just now, but the Motor City’s creative life keeps on trucking. The strains of Motown have long been replaced with dance and hiphop, but the city still churns out more than its share of interesting performers. This double bill at Glavclub showcases the work of Apollo Brown, a renowned musical activist who continues Detroit’s line of experimental hip-hop acts with his omnivorous style. He’s giving a solo set and also joining his trio Ugly Heroes, a group noted for playing music by and for regular guys.QGlavclub, ul. Ordzhonikidze 11, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 230 10 30, www. apollobrown.bandcamp.com. Tickets 1,000 - 3,000Rbl. 17.09 Wednesday 21:00 Kap Bambino France enjoys an enviable reputation in electronic music, and Kap Bambino is one of the most highly rated acts on that scene since the start of the century. The combination of Orion Bouvier’s electronica and Caroline Martial’s distinctive vocals puts them among the biggest names on the festival circuit right across Europe. Both artists have other projects as well as this, so Kap Bambino isn’t one of the most prolific names around - the most recent trip to the recording studio was back in 2012, delivering the well-received ‘Devotion’ but their energetic live shows have kept them in the public eye.QA-2, 16 Tonn, Ul. Presnensky Val 6, bldg. 1, MUlitsa 1905 goda, tel. (+7) 499 253 15 50, www.kap-bambino. com. Tickets 2,000 - 3,000Rbl.

20.09 Saturday 20:00 Il Divo Russia loves its opera, and Russian audiences have taken the virtuoso voices of Il Divo to their hearts. The quartet’s combination of movie-star good looks and angelic voices has made them a massive hit, and their regular tours to these parts attract sell-out crowds. The latest visit is in support of the group’s sixth studio album, ‘A Musical Affair’, a release that sees the boys swap the opera house for Broadway. Popular hits from shows like ‘Phantom of the Opera’, ‘West Side Story’ and ‘Les Miserables’ get the inimitable Divo treatment in a show that’s sure to hit the high notes at Crocus.QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.ildivo. com. Tickets 2,000 - 25,000Rbl. August - September 2014

Culture & Events German Language festival 13.09 Saturday - 14.09 Sunday 12:00 Sprechen Sie Deutch? A year-long festival of German language and literature starts in Moscow in September with a weekend festival at Hermitage Gardens. The highlight of the opening event is a set from top German pop star CRO, dubbed the ‘future of German rap’ and famous for performing in a panda mask. That’s part of a strong emphasis on contemporary street culture, but there’s also a range of theatre performances, lectures and discussions and film screenings dedicated to the German language and culture. The event kicks off on Sep. 13 with a mass German lesson led by an as yet un-named Russian TV presenter and runs throughout the weekend.QC-1, Hermitage Garden, Ul. Karetny Ryad 3, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 935 21 01, www. mosgorsad.ru. Open 12:00 - 22:00.

21.09 Sunday 20:00 Kravts Russian rap isn’t an oxymoron. While it took sometime for this style to catch on over here, the genre has grown in prominence over the last decade or so and today the local hiphop scene stretches from the unlikely Orthodox raps of Komba Bakkh to the increasingly mainstream work of guys like Noize MC. Kravtz, born Pavel Kravtsov, is part of the new wave of Russian rappers, earning a big reputation with his 2009 debut release ‘Puff Naughty’. He reached new prominence earlier this year with the launch of his fourth album and a big gig at Glavklub to celebrate. While it may be hard going for non-Russian speakers, his latest show is a good chance to catch up on one of the fastest-growing trends in Moscow.QGlavclub, ul. Ordzhonikidze 11, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 230 10 30, www.kravz.ru. Tickets 800 - 3,000Rbl. 12 Moscow In Your Pocket

Culture & Events 24.09 Wednesday 20:00 Ray Wilson Genesis Classic Ray Wilson shot to fame as vocalist with prog rock legends Genesis, stepping up to replace Phil Collins in 1996 and helping to create the band’s final album, ‘Calling all stations’. Since then Genesis has taken an extended break, but Wilson has continued to keep the music alive by creating the Genesis Classic program, an orchestral show built around the greatest hits of his erstwhile colleagues. The idea was a hit and Wilson has been taking around Europe’s top concert halls ever since. QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.genesisklassik.com/. Tickets 1,800 - 10,000Rbl. 26.09 Friday 20:00 Elizium Elizium are among the veterans of the Russian punk-rock scene, although over the course of almost two decades their music has absorbed other styles, from SKA to metal. The band’s leader, Dmitry Kuznetsov, describes the sound as ‘cosmos rock’ and is taking it out on the road again this fall to promote the soon-to-be-released seventh studio album. With a dedicated local fanbase and international admirers from their stints supporting the likes of NOFX, Mad Caddies and Die Artze, Elizium remains one of the more enduring voices of the local alt-rock scene.QGlavclub, ul. Ordzhonikidze 11, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 230 10 30, www.elysiumband.ru. Tickets 800 - 3,200Rbl. 27.09 Saturday 21:00 Zhanna Aguzarova If Alla Pugacheva represents the official face of Russian and Soviet pop music, Zhanna Aguzarova is her demon twin sister. The two have enjoyed long, often overlapping careers, but while Alla is the darling of light entertainment, Zhanna is the wild, unpredictable star. After all, this is a woman who claims to be in contact with Martians, who has plotted her own outrageous course from band to band, caring little for the vagaries of popular opinion or the needs of the state’s cultural apparatus. And she remains massively popular, from her work with Bravo to the early solo releases pieced together in the USSR’s short-lived rock laboratory, right through to her present-day status as the grand diva of Russian rock.QRay Just Arena, Leningradsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 665 99 99, www. jannaaguzarova.ru. Tickets 1,200 - 5,000Rbl. moscow.inyourpocket.com

Exhibitions through 09.11 Sunday The birth of a masterpiece Moscow’s celebrated Tretyakov Gallery dips into its collection of graphics to show art lovers how some of the great masterpieces of Russian art came into being. Focusing on several great works, including Briullov’s ‘Last Days of Pompeii’, Surikov’s ‘Boyarina Morozova’, Vrubel’s muchreworked ‘Demon Downcast’ and Serov’s ‘Rape of Europa’, the exhibition presents about 200 studies, sketches and preparatory works. These show us how these works grew and developed from initial ideas to finished work of art, presenting the individual quirks and their rich individual characters.QC-4, Tretyakov Gallery, Lavrushinsky per. 10, hall 49-54, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www.tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 250 - 400Rbl.

through 26.10 Sunday The art of travelling Sketches from around Europe are on display at the Institute of Russian Realist Art as part of an engaging exhibition of work by Anatoly Kokorin. Despite the difficulties of travel during the Soviet era, Kokorin was able to explore much of Europe - and captured his impressions in a series of elegant sketches. His works, whether they plunge into the crowds on the London Underground or soar above the tiled roofs of Tallinn, are far more than tourist snaps: Kokorin had a knack of identifying the pulse of a city’s life rather than merely reproducing familiar views of famous sights. The exhibition also includes examples of Kokorin’s illustrations for children’s books, including his interpretations of the fairy tales of Hans Christian Andersen.QInstitute of Russian Realist Art, Novospassky Dvor Business Centre, bldg. 31, Derbenevskaya nab. 7, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 276 12 12, www.rusrealart.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 -150Rbl. Family tickets 200 - 350Rbl.

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through 07.09 Sunday The name’s Bond... One of Britain’s most popular exports is celebrated in a special show at Moscow’s Multimedia Art Museum. Although the famous secret agent James Bond spends much of his on-screen doing battle with Russian bad guys, the immaculately tailored 007 remains as big a hit here as anywhere else in the world. That’s why fans have been flocking to this show since it was first opened in London in 2012, tying together Bond’s 50th anniversary and the Olympic Games. Two years on and both Olympics and Bond have moved to Russia - and brought a vast array of the super-spy’s gadgets. Visitors can see the Aston Martin used in Bond’s screen debut in ‘Dr. No’, Oddjob’s razor-sharp bowler hat and a whole host of the famous gizmos that have featured throughout the world’s longest-running movie franchise.QB-4, MAMM (Multimedia Art Museum Moscow), Ul. Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 11 00, www. mamm-mdf.ru. Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 400Rbl. August - September 2014

Culture & Events Cirque Éloize 10.10 Friday - 12.10 Sunday Cirque Éloize Visits from the world-famous Cirque de Soleil are eagerly awaiting - notwithstanding Russia’s own mastery of the Big Top, the international troupe from Canada never fails to deliver a show-stopping event in its own right. In 2014, meanwhile, audiences are being treated to a new spectacle. Cirque Éloize, a spin-off founded in 1994, has long earned a great reputation for pushing the boundaries of circus art and has already thrilled Moscow audiences with its ‘Rain’ show. This time we get Cirque Éloize iD, a modern-day Romeo & Juliet from the heart of the urban jungle. A cutting-edge contemporary soundtrack and a dazzling stage show bring together a fresh new take on an eternal love story. Combining the grace of ballet with the breathtaking showmanship of a top acrobat, the production is set to wow audiences in Russia just as it has in dozens of cities around the world. October brings just five Moscow dates - book early!QCrocus City Hall, MKAD 65-66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 499 550 00 55, www.cirque-eloize.com. Tickets 1,600 - 3,800Rbl.

through 19.10 Sunday The Flemish masters Moscow’s art lovers have a rare chance to see one of the greatest works of the Flemish masters in person at the latest blockbuster show at the Pushkin Museum. Rubens’ ‘Mars and the Rhea Silvia’ forms the centerpiece of this fall’s visiting exhibition from Liechtenstein’s Princely Collection. Rubens’ depiction of the Roman God of War seducing the virginal priestess of Vesta is one of his most famous works, and here it is presented along with several preliminary sketches and a tapestry that was inspired by the finished painting. The exhibition has 55 paintings from the 17th century and also features other masterpieces of the Flemish school, including works by Anthony van Dyke, Jacob Jordaens and members of the Brueghel family.QC-3, The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts, Ul. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 95 20, www.arts-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Thu 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300 - 500Rbl. 14 Moscow In Your Pocket

Culture & Events through 28.09 Sunday Dressing up dolly Before we had glossy magazines to show off the hottest fashions, the humble doll often served as a guide to what to wear. From the 18th century when dolls first became fashionable through to the early 20th century when the fashion magazines first emerged, creating a wardrobe for these toys was a vital means of showing off the new looks for different ages. These miniature models had outfits that were precision tailored and full of detail, showing off the latest trends in everything from coats and dresses to underwear. An on-going exhibition at the Tsaritsyno highlights the skills of dolls’ dressmakers from around Europe, showing off the finished products as well as the tools of the trade.QTsaritsyno, Dolskaya ul. 1, MOrekhovo, tel. (+7) 495 321 63 66, www.tsaritsyno-museum.ru. Tue - Fri 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun and holidays 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 30 - 300Rbl. 05.09 Friday - 30.11 Sunday Treasures from the south The ancient Samatians, a nomadic tribe which wandered from the Volga to the Danube - used their exquisite gold as a means of communicating with the gods. That’s why their prize ornaments and weapons were often buried with their chiefs, leaving a breathtaking legacy of beautiful works of art dating back to the fifth century BC. This collection was assembled by the Museum of Astrakhan during the late 20th century after extensive excavations of burial mounds in the region. Works include many items in the ‘animal style’ also seen among the neighboring Scythian tribes: deer, panthers, horses and sheep are intertwined in staggering detail. The show runs Sep. 5 to Nov 30 at the Museum of Decorative Arts.QC-1, All-Russian Decorative Art Museum, Delegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609 01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 20 - 200Rbl.

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23.08 Saturday 14:00 LEtchik festival Kitajski Letchik, a hot’n’sticky basement bar, is one of Moscow’s oldest and best-loved clubs. To celebrate its 15th birthday, it’s staging a festival of some of the most popular bands to squeeze onto its cozy stage - and braving the open air for a change. Anticipating a big crowd, and recognizing that the venue is a little too compact for a fullon fest, the action is switching to this summer’s hottest hipster spot, Muzeon. The acts lined up read like a roll-call of the great and good of the Russian underground scene, with a few international guests and the promise of at least one big name making its Russian debut. Music includes the upbeat, afro-tinged Markscheider Kunst, the latest project from Armenian art-rockers Deti Picasso, the smoky-hued ‘alko-jazz’ of Billy’s Band and many more. There’s also a drama master class for kids and two marching bands to keep the dancefloor moving - literally, from one of the park to the other. Rumor has it that Zhao Da, the legendary ‘Chinese Pilot’ after whom the club was named, will also be putting in an appearance and posing for photos in his plane. All this, and free to get in.QB-5, Muzeon Park, Krymsky Val 10, MOktyabrskaya, tel. +7 (495) 624 56 11, www.jao-da.ru/. Entrance free.

interview with alex paperny Tell us about yourself Alex! How are you connected with the festival? I’m connected with the festival through the cafe club “Kitajski Letchik Dzhao Da”. I’m actually one of the founders of the club. So what is unique about this festival? What makes this festival distinct is that it is organised in the honour of the 15th anniversary of our unique club. This is a club that a long, long time ago we decided not bother with any kinds of formats and instead always organised concerts and festivals with music which we actually liked, in terms of both genre and direction. We were free to the greatest extent, and did as we wanted. Is there anything in Moscow that you would say you cannot find in other great worldly cities? Of course. Everything is unique, even twins don’t look like each other! For example one can be a wonderful person, and the other, so-so... When we opened the club, we really wanted to have real pancakes from Brittany; we tried them in France and really wanted them. The kind they sell on every corner in Paris, thick and fat pancakes with different fillings, so delicious. But we couldn’t find the recipe for them anywhere, so we began to create our own pancakes. At last, after a lot of suffering, we came up with our own recipe. And even 15 years later they’re still cheered in our cafe club! They’re very delicious, and you’ll find nobody has such pancakes. That’s exactly it we wanted to replicate Brittany Pancakes and suddenly we stumbled on a great discovery in the art of pancakes! www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

August - September 2014

Culture & Events

Countryside estate Arkhangelskoe Exhibition

Exhibition

Moscow’s aristocracy and the art of France

Moscow marathon Running has become an increasingly popular activity in Moscow, aided by the transformation of the city’s parks and open spaces in recent years. Capitalizing on that, the Moscow Marathon returns for the second year running on Sep. 21, putting runners from all over the world to the ultimate test on its 26-mile course. It took just three hours to fill the 1,500 places in the big race. For those who aren’t quite up to the full distance, there’s a 10km run on the same day. The main course starts and finishes at the Luzhniki Sports Complex and takes in the Moskva City business park, Tverskaya Ulitsa and the Kremlin Walls on its round trip through the capital. The September race is the culmination of a summer of warm-up events, and the last of those is scheduled for August 17 when a ‘Musical half-marathon’ boogies along the riverbanks around Luzhniki to the sound of DJs and live bands along the route.

All change on the ice The approach of the fall means hockey is back on Moscow’s sporting agenda – and it’s all change for the city’s KHL contenders. Dynamo and CSKA both go into action with new head coaches, but for rather different reasons. At Dynamo, play-off champion in 2012 and 2013 as well as regular season champion last time out, continuity is the watchword. Oleg Znarok has moved to coach Russia’s national team, beginning with a resounding triumph in May’s World Championship in Minsk, but his long-serving assistant Harijs Vitolins remains to lead the Blue-and-Whites. Znarok himself will continue to serve as a consultant with Dynamo when his international duties permit. Latvainborn Vitolins is also set to work alongside Znarok for the national team, and already boasts the unusual distinction of being the first foreigner to coach the team: with Znarok suspended for the championship final in Minsk, Vitolins stepped up as interim head coach and steered the team to a 5-2 victory over Finland. For CSKA, meanwhile, a disappointing season under John Torchetti has seen the Army Men end their experiment with a North American coach. Under Torchetti the team finished seventh in the Western Conference and was swept in the first round of the play-offs by SKA St. Petersburg. Dmitry 16 Moscow In Your Pocket

Classical French art from the 18th and 19th centuries

Kvartalnov is the new man behind the bench, swapping Sibir for CSKA. In Novosibirsk Kvartalnov was noted for his willingness to give young players a chance, and for his ability to get the most out of a roster that never had big names or a big budget. At CSKA he will have more cash to play with as Rosneft continues to pump petrodollars into a project that aims to restore the once invincible Red Army to its former glories. Fans will get a first look at the new coaches in late August at the Mayor of Moscow Cup (Aug 28-31). Dynamo and CSKA face off against Moscow Region’s Vityaz Podolsk and Atlant Mytishchi in this four-team warm-up tournament. The KHL season starts on September 4, and fixtures can be found at en.khl.ru/calendar.

The World Cup hangover After a summer of World Cup excitement, the Russian Premier League starts again on Aug. 1. It’s a big event for Moscow fans this season thanks to the return of Torpedo Moscow to the top division after eight years. The triple Soviet champion has suffered hard times in recent years, but booked its place in the top flight with a play-off success against Samara’s Krylya Sovietov. Torpedo begins its season with a tough test, though, traveling to Arena Khimki to play defending champion CSKA on Aug. 1. Other games to look out for include Dynamo vs Spartak on Aug 9 or 10, the first CSKA vs Spartak super-derby on Aug 16 or 17 and Lokomotiv’s home game against likely title contender Zenit St. Petersburg on Aug 30 or 31. CSKA will represent Moscow in the Champions League this season, and begins its group stage campaign on Sep. 17 (fixtures to be confirmed). There’s also international action, with Russia beginning its Euro 2016 Qualifying campaign on Sep. 8. After a disappointing World Cup which has put the decision to award coach Fabio Capello a contract through to the end of the 2018 tournament, which Russia will host, a strong performance is needed to reassure disappointed fans. At least the opening opponent, Liechtenstein, should guarantee a win – but whether it’s Capello or a new coach on the bench, Russia will expect an impressive display. The game is likely to be played at Spartak’s new Otkrytiye Arena, but at the time of writing this is yet to be confirmed. By Andy Potts moscow.inyourpocket.com

This sprawling 18th Century countryside estate once belonged to the exceptionally rich Prince Yusupov and is a wonderful monument of Russian culture from the end of the XVIII to the beginning of the XIX century. The buildings around the estate are perfect representatives of neoclassical architecture with sweeping terraces and ionic-pillared arcades. The gardens and terraces are bedecked with architectural décor and marble sculptures, the Caprice miniature palace, the Temple to Catherine II and pavilions. On the Eastern part you will find the Church of Archangel Michael, the Holy Gate as well as other striking constructions. Visitors can cast their eyes upon a splendid collection of paintings, drawings, sculptures and pieces of applied art. Works of such brilliant painters as Giovanni Battista Tiepolo, Antoon van Dyck, François Boucher, Robert Hue, Pietro Antonio Rotari - just to name a few – are a pure delight for any art aficionado. But perhaps the most prized possession of the estate is its superb collection of rare books, which consists of more than 16,000 volumes of Russian and Western European pieces of the XVI-XIX centuries. Spring or summer, winter or autumn – Arkhangelskoe is breathtaking in any season. On a sunny winter day it‘s a romantic setting for that quintessential Russian troika (sleigh) ride through

the fresh crispy snow. But you don’t have to worry about getting cold as there’s plenty of stalls selling hot drinks and food. In the summer, the blooming formal gardens offer excellent views towards the surrounding countryside and are dotted with neo-classical sculptures and hidden summer pavilions perfect for any amorous getaway. The forested area leading to the small river is where Pushkin, Gertsen and Karamzin once enjoyed going for a lazy stroll. Just like back in the olden days of Russian emperors and nobility, now, once again, music can be heard all throughout the estate. Classical music concerts “Autumn Divertimento in Arkhangelskoe” are held here and the arrival of summer means that it’s time for the open air jazz music festival Usadba Jazz. It may not be the easiest place to get to but if you’re in Moscow and you’ve seen all there is to see in the or are tired of the overcrowded city parks, Arkhangelskoe Museum Estate is definitely worth a visit! Getting there: buses 549, 541 run from the Tushinskaya metro station to the Arkhangelskoye stop, minibuses 151 runs to the Sanatorium stop; bus 524 or minibus 24 run to the Sanatorium stop. Admission park 150Rbl, exhibition 150Rbl, with excursion 200Rbl. Exhibition open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last Wed of the month. Park always open.

+7 495 797 54 09, +7 495 363 13 75 www.arhangelskoe.su

Features

Culture & Events Gogol House Nikitskiy Boulevard 7A, in the very center of Moscow near the Arbat Square, with its stone arcades and balconies may seem like your average 18th century merchant mansion but there is a lot more to it than meets the eye. This house has a very rich history dating back to the early 17th century and had belonged to families of boyars, courtiers, royal councilors, government officials, army generals and even the members of the Tolstoy family. However, the most famous resident to have ever inhabited this manor was none other than Nikolai Vasilievich Gogol, one of the most preeminent figures of the natural school of Russian literary realism and author of such classics as “The Nose”, “Viy”, “The Overcoat”, “The Government Inspector” and, of course, “Dead Souls”. Welcome to the Gogol House Memorial Museum Science Library! Although he had only spent the last four years of his life here, this is the place where the writer worked on the second volume of Dead Souls. Here, he burnt the manuscripts of the poem. And in this very house, on February 21, «Дом Гоголя» — государственное учреждение культуры многофункционального типа объединяющее типа, Gogol House мемориальный музей писателя, научную библиотеку, исследовательский центр и выставочный зал. зал Первый и единственный вmuseum России мемориальный музей Н.В. Memorial and science Гоголя расположен в историческом зданииlibrary старинной городской усадьбы XVIII – XIX вв. вв в самом центре Москвы, на Никитском бульваре. В этом особняке провёл писатель последние годы своей жизни: здесь он работал над вторым томом поэмы «Мёртвые души», души» духовной прозой, готовил к изданию собрание сочинений и перед кончиной сжёг почти все свои бумаги. Во дворе усадьбы установлен памятник Гоголю работы Н.А. Н А Андреева, Андреева созданный скульптором к 100 летию со д дня р рождения д писателя и имеющий щ свою непростую, очень интересную и драматическую историю Экспозиция историю. Экспозиция, в которой гармонично сочетаютсочетают ся традиционные музейные приёмы и использование современных аудиовизуальных и мультимедийных средств, включает в себя шесть залов, объединенных темой «Гоголь — загадка третьего тысячелетия. ЖизненЖизнен ный и творческий р путь у писателя». Коллекция ц музея у насчитывает несколько тысяч экспонатов: книги, предметы еты дворянского быта, гравюры, ли литографии

Moscow, Nikitsky bul. 7a, +7 (495) 690-58-81 www.domgogolya.ru 18 Moscow In Your Pocket

1852 the writer died. The Gogol House is the only place in Moscow that keeps these momentous memories alive by combining a research library of over 250 000 volumes, a research centre, an exhibition hall and a memorial museum. The museum itself is located on the first floor, which Gogol occupied, and is broken up into several rooms. Gogol’s cabinet was a special room where he could enjoy some peace and quiet while he put his words down on paper.

The living room is almost an exact replica of the one where the author entertained his guests. The “Government Inspector” room tells visitors about Russian theater of the 1830s and 1840s, as well as Gogol’s Theater and plays based on his works. The Room of Remembrance is where Gogol stayed when he began feeling ill in 1852 because it was warmer than the other rooms. Although special attention is given to the works of N.V. Gogol and other material regarding his life, visitors also have access to a large selection of books dedicated to psychology, art, philosophy, literary studies and theology. The library also has a hall devoted specifically to music, where anyone from professionals to novices can examine literature relating to music and even use the electric piano with special headphones to better hear how they sound. The Gogol House also hosts a number of events, ranging from literary readings to plays and concerts dedicated to Gogol’s and other prominent Russian authors’ works.

Moscow Theater Life To say that Moscow has a rich and multivarious theater life would be a huge understatement. Theater in Russia dates all the way back to pagan shows with dramatic recitations of fables, tales and proverbs, and singing and dances, performed by skomorokhi, or traveling minstrels. Moscow’s first theater opened its doors in 1672 at the court of Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich. Though lagging behind the opening of London’s first public playhouse by almost 100 years, Moscow made up the difference quickly, becoming one of the centers of theatrical life by the 19th century. This is when the Maly (Small) Theatre was founded (1824) and the Bolshoi (Big) Theatre replaced the Peter’s Theatre in 1825. The turn of the 20th century marked an outburst of theatrical activities and a search for new styles. What marked the biggest change in Moscow theater was the foundation of the Moscow Art Theatre of Konstantin Stanislavsky and Vladimir Nemirovich-Danchenko in 1898. In fact, Russian drama theater as we know it today is in many ways rooted in the school of those genius stage directors. Today, the Russian capital has over 150 theaters of all sizes and styles! Not only classical but also non-repertory theaters present a wealthy palette of classical and avant-garde plays, unique acting and unexpected stage designs. The so-called “open showcases” combining the best traditions of repertory theater with experimental settings by youthful creative teams have become a new direction to take note of. So which ones should be on everyone’s to-do list whether just visiting Moscow or settling down in the capital for good? If you’re new to Russia and your knowledge of the Russian language is rusty to say the least - good news! A bit over a year ago Royal Shakespeare Company alum Jonathan Bex realized he had little hope of acting in any of the city’s many theaters. Instead of despairing, however, he came up with a creative solution: he started the first ever theater company that would offer exclusively Englishlanguage productions to Moscow’s audiences. Moscow English Theater brings professional actors from Britain to stage contemporary British and American drama in Moscow. Past productions include Willy Russell’s popular play “Educating Rita”, Joe Penhall’s “Blue/Orange”, Alan Ayckbourn “Relatively Speaking”, Anthony Shaffer’s “Sleuth” and “2013 - A Space Oddity”, a co-production with Company Gavin Robertson.

The famous Verdi opera, Aida, comes to the Stanislavsky Theatre on 12th, 13th and 14th September 2014. This version is staged by the German theatre director, Peter Stein, well renowned in Russia not least for his popular directions at the Chekhov festivals, and will be repeated at Milan’s La Scala in a year’s time. Despite often being performed as large scale performances across the globe, with full choruses, ballet and occasionally even live animals, Stein, in his first Russian opera experience, focuses on the main theme of human relationships at the very heart of the tale. The opera’s first performance, in Cairo in 1870, ran from seven in the evening to three in the morning due to the passionate audience’s rapturous ovations after every scene. For this staging, Stein has brought his own creative team from Germany, although the full cast and musician’s are the theatre’s own. As part of the international contemporary dance festival, Danceinversion, the American ballet performs for five nights at the Stanislavsky Theatre. On 19th and 20th September, Aszure Barton & Artists will perform ‘Awáa’, meaning ‘mother’ in the native language of north-western Canada, and explores the very essence of existence, the concept of gender and what it is to live in a human body. The piece, conceived from a dream of Aszure’s, was premiered in 2012, and is performed by six men and one woman. On the 3rd, 4th and 5th of October, Shen Wei Dance Arts will perform a contemporary twist on The Rite of Spring. Acclaimed by the Washington times as “one of the great artists of our time”, and recognised for his creative role in the Opening Ceremony of the 2008 Beijing Olympics, Shen Wei has received many awards and worked with many dance companies worldwide. Since its founding in 2000, Shen Wei Dance Arts is well respected for its genre spanning performances which succeed in drawing together different cultures, and has appeared in 138 cities in 29 countries across 5 continents. Stanislavsky and NemirovichDanchenko Moscow Music Theatre QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 17, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 28 35, stanmus.ru.

QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 7A, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 92 56, www.domgogolya.ru. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 14:00 21:00, Sat and Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue and last day of the month. Admission 20 - 100Rbl. moscow.inyourpocket.com

Stanislavsky’s premieres

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August - September 2014

Features Kostroma

Bored of Russian history museums with lots of dry and non-compelling texts? Looking for history that would be fun and accessible to the whole family? If yes, make sure to check out the National Show of Russia “Kostroma”! For 10 years now this annual summer spectacle has been transcending space and time to show viewers from all parts of Russia and beyond the vastness of this incredible multi-cultural country. Politicians, artists, cultural figures, royalty, children and their parents, young and old have all been witness to historical events of the Russian nation that unfold on the stage of the Big Concert Hall “Kosmos”. Here, scenes from our astounding history and stories of our greatest heroes and epochs come alive through dance. Through brilliant stage performances we are shown the beginning of Christianity in Russia, the Tsarist epoch and pre-revolutionary Russia, the flight of the first man into space and the famous Russian ballet. A variety of landscapes are covered, ranging from the Caucaus mountains to Asian steppes, the Northern Ocean to the Black Sea, the beautiful Volga river to the mighty Yenisei. As the scenery changes, so do the people along with their traditions and culture. Over 50 artists perform various numbers, among them “Tatar Spring”, “Legends of the North”, “The Rhythm of the Caucuses”, “The River Volga Flows”, “Yokhor” and “Tsam” – all with astounding accuracy and adherence to the traditions and the way of life of the numerous cultures embodied in the Russian Federation. Very special attention is also given to the decorations to ensure that all elements are as close to reality as possible. More than 300 costumes were designed by Elena Piatrovskaya and are extremely fascinating with how true they remain to the national style. All the amulets, Mongolian masks, drums and Tatar tambourines were hand-made by the masters of the cultures and traditions from regions near and far, such as Chukotka, the Tuva Republic, Dagestan and Tatarstan. Vladimir Kornev, a famous composer, wrote the music for many of the numbers and the musical arrangement for the 80 musicians of the orchestra was created by Vladimir Ryabtsev, a People’s Artist of the Russian Federation.

Features Next, of course, is the iconic Bolshoi Theater which is literally translated as the “Big Theater”. Not only does it stage truly breathtaking ballet and opera performances, but the building, designed by architect Joseph Bové, is an impressive sight in itself which attracts tourists and locals alike to marvel at its architectural splendor. Although the Bolshoi was officially opened on 20 October 1856, on Tsar Alexander II’s coronation day, it traces its history back to 28 March (17 according to the old style) 1776 when Catherine II granted the prosecutor, Prince Pyotr Urusov, the “privilege” of “maintaining” theatre performances of all kinds, including masquerades, balls and other forms of entertainment. By now, the Bolshoi Ballet and Bolshoi Opera are amongst the oldest and most renowned ballet and opera companies in the world as well as being by far the world’s biggest ballet company, having more than 200 dancers. The theater underwent reconstruction which lasted from l July 2005 to 28 October 2011, as a result of which, many lost features of the historic building were reinstated and, at the same time, it has joined the ranks of most technically equipped theater buildings in the world.

Making the Art Nouveau building on Taganka Square its home, the Taganka Theater is most famous for the controversies in its repertoire and leadership as well the incredible talents that performed there at the beginning. Founded in 1964 by Yuri Lyubimov, the theatre rose to popularity in Moscow with Vladimir Vysotsky and Alla Demidova as the leading actors. However its repertoire was so daring and controversial that it got into deep trouble with Soviet authorities, who banned many of Lyubimov’s productions. By 1984 the director was stripped of his Soviet citizenship and exiled to the West. Nowadays it’s a favorite among Russian intelligentsia for its attempts to create principally new non-standard performances. The Bolshoi’s little relative is the Maly Theater, or the very aptly named “Small Theater”. Established in 1806 right next door to the Bolshoi, the Maly traces its history to the Moscow University drama company, established in 1756. Already in the 19th century, the Maly was universally recognized in Russia as the leading dramatic theatre of the century. In modern days it’s a traditional drama theatre that produces classical heritage plays.

Bird of Happiness

Russia’s cultural traditions of the past and present are embodied in the sounds of nature and see its scenery. Our ancestors listened to the singing of the birds, the rustle of the leaves, the gusts of wind and the crunch of fresh snow. They also marveled at the colorful sunsets, the whiteness of the first snow, the rich green tones of grass in the spring and the rays of the summer sun. All of these sights and sounds they captured in music and lyrics. This dialogue with nature and our surroundings is where the “Russian national song” found its beginning. Nadezhda Babkina, a true People’s Artist of Russia, would like to invite you on a musical adventure into the vibrant world of human emotions with her show “The Bird of Happiness”, for it is this bird, according to Russian folklore, that we are constantly chasing throughout our lives, which are so full of losses and gains, moments that captivate us or brief seconds of bitter separation. Thanks to the most modern show technologies, you will get to travel throughout Russia’s vast landscapes – from the harsh winters, to the golden autumns, from the summer fields to the intoxicating aromas of the blooming springs. Ice sculptures, hundreds of authentic costumes, unique choreography and the singing of the “Russkaya Pesnya” group will this journey into the world of genuine human emotions truly unforgettable. And of course, staying true to real Russian traditions, guests are greeted with bread and salt, Russian national food will be abundant, national dress will be presented, national arts and crafts will be on display – all this will really get guests to dive into Russia’s rich culture and Russians’ mysterious soul. The show will take place daily (apart from Mondays) from July 12th - August 31st, 19.30, in the Theater of Musical Folklore “Russian Song”.

Q BKZ “Kosmos”, pr. Mira 150, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 234 63 73, www.nationalrussianshow.ru. The show takes place every day from the 15th of August until the 15th of September (except Thursdays). 20 Moscow In Your Pocket

The first “international” theater in Moscow was the theater “At Nikitsky” thanks to performances of world-famous actors such as Sarah Bernardt, Eleonare Duse and Ernst von Possart. Today this is yet another one of the must-visit theaters now known as the Mayakovsky Theater. The theater remains one of the capital’s favorite ones and its actors are among the most famous in all of Russia. The Mayakovsky theatre stages classical pieces from literary masters such as Gogol, Dostoevsky and Chekhov.

For contact information on theatres check page 10 moscow.inyourpocket.com

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Q Musical Folklore Theater “Russkaya Pesnya”, Sadovaya-Chernogryazskaya ul. 5/9, bldg. 2, MKrasnye Vorota, tel (+7) 926 221 72 84, www.folkteatr.ru. Tickets available at the theater, online or by phone. August - September 2014

Features

THEATRE LUNY Celebrating 110 years since the birth of the illustrious surrealist artist, Salvador Dali, the play ‘Dali and the Spanish Queen of Kazan’ has been running at the Theatre Luny in Moscow since November 2013. The Russian artist Sergey Prokhanov has created an exciting fusion of bright colours, video installations and music in his thought provoking play about the life and work of the Spanish father of surrealism and his lover and muse, Elena Ivanovna Diakonova, or simply Gala. Inspired by the artist’s eccentric and extravagant life, the director seeks to present the wild mind and dreams of the man in the most creative and inventive way possible.

Theatre experience Ankur Shah talking about “Doznanie” (Inquest) at Theatre Praktika. Priding itself upon sharp political and social focus, both in Russia and beyond, Theatre Praktika has to be one of Moscow’s quirkiest venues. Gathering outside the venue you’ll find the most eclectic mix of people, which really reflects the diversity of ideas this theatre company has to offer. The title of the play, Doznanie, has a subtle meaning lying somewhere in between inquiry and investigation. The director sought to explore the notion of justice in the world, examining different perceptions of the concept and whether or not it can truly exist. In all honesty, entertaining such philosophical ideas is complex enough in English, let alone Russian, nonetheless the play had me completely captivated. Its charm definitely lay in its subjectivity; I find it hard to imagine two people walked out of the theatre deriving the same conclusions, and that’s a very exciting prospect. Watching a play in a foreign language for the first time also proved to be a very fascinating if not surreal experience. The whole nature of the experience is dramatically altered - passive listening is no longer an option, making it all the more challenging but conversely rewarding. You’re forced to rely more on your intuition and instincts, and you quickly become more attuned to the atmosphere. Whilst I’d be lying if I said I understood every word, this didn’t undermine the experience in the slightest, and it’s one I’d highly recommend to anyone, regardless of your level of Russian. 22 Moscow In Your Pocket

Established in the post-Stalin years which sought to destroy the cult of personality, the Sovremennik Theater (translating into “Contemporary Theater”) was the first theater founded by a free creative group of like-minded talents who were able to prove themselves as a wholesome and worthy artistic collective. Among the founders, all of whom graduated from Moscow Art Theatre School-Studio, were such respected actors as Oleg Yefremov, Galina Volchek, Igor Kvasha, Liliya Tolmachyova, Yevgeniy Yevstigneyev and Oleg Tabakov. Like any theater it’s seen ups and downs throughout its relatively long history but no matter what, its fans always showed support and enthusiasm for what it does and this is why today it’s as strong as ever. Paris has a Sun Theater, Prague has a Night Theater, Japan has a Fog Theater and Moscow has a Moon Theater (Theatre Luny). From its romantic beginnings in a small basement in 1992, the Luny Theater now occupies a gorgeous mansion in central Moscow and regularly tours not only Russia, but also countries like the USA, Israel, Germany, Holland, Bulgaria, Mexico and others. The brilliant Sergey Prokhanov founded the theater and remains its art director until this very day. Most plays are also written by him and stand out for their poetry, unique directing style and refined musical accompaniment. Prolific modern Russian actors like Chulpan Khamatova, Irina Metlitskaya, Anatoliy Romashin and many others have at least once appeared on the Luny’s stage. Although quite young by theater standards in Moscow, Praktika has come to be known as a charming little place that feels more like a gathering of close friends (thanks to its simple interior and small capacity) rather than a full theater experience. The plays staged there are often daring and controversial so it appeals more to the younger crowd of theater-goers on an intellectual, emotional and spiritual search. A new generation of playwrights and and directors has been using this space since 2005 to explore topics like personality and power, ethnos and urbanism, war and religion, ethics and immoralism.

You can buy tickets for many theatre events at www.kassir.ru, www.bileter.ru, www.ticketland.ru and www.ponominalu.ru moscow.inyourpocket.com

A true genius of theater art, Konstantin Stanislavsky, made an innovative contribution to modern European and American realistic acting which has remained at the core of mainstream western performance training for much of the last century. For this reason, the world famous Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko Moscow Music Theatre is most certainly worth a visit. Today the company’s repertoire includes operas (Betrothal in a Monastery, Bizet’s Carmen, Onegin, La Bohème, La forza del destino, La traviata, Madama Butterfly, Pique Dame, The Tale of Tsar Saltan and Tosca among many others) and ballet (traditional Russian repertoire and experimental works such as John Neumeier’s water ballet The Little Mermaid). Theatre Sovremennik

Theatre experience Chris Jones talking about “Igraem Shillera” (Playing Schiller) at Theatre Sovremennik. We all know how beautiful and enchanting classical opera is. Verdi’s most performed “La Traviata” contains all the elements we’re used to getting to feed our operatic addiction: a beautiful, consumptive, fallen-woman heroine, grand Parisian party scenes, the travails of love, a troubled father and a deathbed scene. Bizet’s “Carmen”, a long but action-filled tale with infectious music about the Gypsy dancer at the cigarette factory who breaks hearts and meets her doom outside the bullring is the perfect formula for an opera. But if you know the classics inside and out and are looking for a new take on your favorite art form, then the Moscowbased Helikon-Opera company is worth a visit or two. Specializing in unconventional productions, the company was founded by Dmitry Bertman and gave its first performance, Stravinsky’s Mavra, on April 10, 1990 and nowadays it gives 200 performances a year, primarily in Moscow but also abroad.

So in this review we’ve managed to cover only 11 of the 150+ theaters currently bringing smiles, tears, joy and laughter to Muscovites and guests of the capital. Once you cover this list of “essentials”, you will surely find out about all the smaller and more niche outlets and companies that have duly brought Moscow the title of one of the world’s theater capitals. Happy viewings! www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Everything about this play is, as the theatre’s name promises (‘Contemporary Theatre’), in every way contemporary, surreal and above all certainly memorable. The play is an adaptation of Friedrich Schiller’s famous ‘Mary Stuart’, documenting the dramatic last days of Mary, Queen of Scots, during the reign of Queen Elizabeth. The plot follows roughly the same trajectory, with a number of twists eventually leading to Queen Elizabeth’s signing of the imprisoned Mary’s death warrant. The stage established a sombre tone from the outset, where a gloomy set was decorated only with a collection of chairs, a pile of hay and hanging buckets from the roof, one of which was the enormous centrepiece suspended ominously stage left. An almost constant droning foreboding music and drifting wisps of smoke did more than enough to keep your eyes glued to the engrossing spectacle which gradually unfolded over two hours. Despite the language barrier it was almost impossible to drift off as scenes constantly reached carefully played out stunning climaxes, where sand, seeds, hay and water were thrown across the stage in a captivating descent into surrealism. The characters themselves were invariably clad in dark robes, each individually betraying their own insanity to the audience; indeed Mary makes her stage entrance by descending from a chandelier. The two heroes, Queen Elizabeth and Mary, gave fascinating performances, both portraying a seemingly all-consuming unhinged insecurity building throughout the play. August - September 2014

Features The cradle of Russian Orthodox Christianity and one of the most beautiful towns in the Russian nation, the city of Sergiev Posad was founded by the venerable Sergey Radonezhsky in 1337. This year is special because it marks the 700th birthday of the city’s founding father. A reformer of monarchism in Russia, and a religious and political figure, St. Sergius of Radonezh, as he is also known, is highly honored by the Russian Orthodox Church and is considered the patron saint of Russia. From childhood he seemed destined for holiness and as a young man Sergius set off to live his life as an ascetic monk in the forests outside Moscow. He was soon joined by others inspired by his pious lifestyle and eventually a monastery began to grow around the small wooden church that Sergius had built. This small church is now one of the holiest places in all of Russia - the stunning Holy Trinity St. Sergius Lavra – around which the town of Sergiev Posad grew and became a city in its own right. Sergiev Posad’s greatest sight is its stunning monastery, although there are also one or two other worthwhile museums dotted around which show off the region’s strong artistic history and especially the legacy of toy making of folk crafts.

HOlY TRINITY st. sergius lavra

Sergiev Posad One of the holiest places in all of Russia the stunning Holy Trinity St. Sergius Lavra and the surrounding town of Sergiev Posad has been a place of pilgrimage for Russian Orthodox believers for centuries. Just one and a half hours by train from Moscow it makes a perfect day trip or relaxing weekend away from the city.

Considered to be the most important monastery in Russia and the spiritual centre of the Russian Orthodox Church, the St. Sergius Lavra is often nicknamed the ‘Russian Vatican’. Busloads of Russian pilgrims arrive here every day to visit the relics of its founder the revered 14th Century Saint Sergius of Radonezh, to drink water from the holy spring and to admire the medieval icons and exquisite beauty of the monastery’s many colourful churches and ecclesiastic buildings. As it is considered to be a particularly holy place visitors are asked to respect the sanctity of the area. Men should wear trousers and remove their hats, while preferable clothing for women is a conservative skirt or dress and a headscarf. Entrance to the monastery is free. You should only pay if you would like to make a video or take photographs. Entrance to the Sacristy Museum costs extra.

Tourist Centre of St. Sergiev Lavra The Tourist Centre of St. Sergiev Lavra offers tours of the whole town and information about all its sites, providing guides in English, German, French, Greek, Italian, Dutch, Spanish, and Armenian, and even offering to meet tourists in Moscow and take them to Sergiev Posad and back again. All the churches and main attractions will be covered in just one excursion, which can be booked at the Tourist Centre.QTel. (+7) 496 540 57 21 and (+7) 910 471 01 70, www.stsl.ru. Open 08:00 – 18:00. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Trinity Cathedral (Troitsky sobor) Constructed in the 1420s (making it older than all the churches of Moscow’s Kremlin) the golden domed white church is the Trinity Cathedral, the last resting place of St. Sergius. The faithful can be seen queuing up here, sometimes for hours, to kiss the silver and glass shrine of the revered saint. The small cathedral is also filled with tourists craning their necks to admire the wonderful iconostasis partly painted by 15th Century celebrated icon master Andrei Rublev. Assumption Cathedral (Uspensky sobor) The large blue domed cathedral at the centre of the monastery is the Assumption cathedral built at the behest of Ivan the Terrible in 1585 to celebrate the defeat of the Tatars in Kazan. It is much more spacious than the candle lit Trinity Cathedral and is illuminated by some of the largest chandeliers in Russia. The tombs of the medieval noble Trubetskoy and Golitsyn families are found to the right of the entrance, while the tombs of the disgraced Godunov family are found outside the cathedral walls. It was in this cathedral that the young Peter the Great hid from the Streltsy rebels who had set out to murder him when he was a young teenager. The paintings and icons in the cathedral are original, dating from 1684. Refectory church of St. Sergius This church, situated in the southern part of the complex, is immediately remarkable due to its brightly coloured geometrically painted pattern, precisely sculptured white columns and gold dome, making it appear almost like a royal palace. The construction was started in 1686 by the Alekseyevich brothers John V and Peter I with the blessing of the patriarch Joachim, and finished in 1692 on the day of the 300th anniversary of the finding of relics on the site. The architecture is in the Naryshkinsky baroque design – a Russian version of the fashionable European style at the time. The majority of the current paintings adorning the cathedral’s interior were completed during the reign of Catherine Great, though subject to much change over the course of the 19th century. The church is the biggest of the whole monastery enclosure, accommodating 300-400 people. August - September 2014

Features

Features Chapel at the Well and the Holy Spring The monastery’s holy spring is sheltered by an elaborately decorated pavilion while the wedding cake pink chapel in front of it houses the holy well where believers come to stock up on the holy water. The spring is said to have appeared after 1644 when the monastery was under siege by the Poles and is said to have immediately started miraculously curing monks of ailments such as blindness and poor hearing.

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The Sacristy (Riznitsa) The monastery’s sacristy has a valuable museum filled with icons, precious ecclesiastical items such as jewel covered staffs, hats, chalices and necklaces and illustrated copies of the gospels made by medieval monks. On the first floor you can find icons painted by Rublev and Ushakov, while upstairs the final exhibit has portraits of Russian nobility including Catherine the Great, yet more precious jewellery and some impressive old English carriages.QPr. Krasnoy Armii 144, tel. (+7) 496 540 53 42, www.musobl.divo.ru.

Museums and places of interest MAP LEGEND 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Trinity Cathedral (Troitsky sobor) Assumption Cathedral (Uspensky sobor) Holy Spirit Church Refectory church of St. Sergius The Gateway Church of John the Baptist’s Nativity Chapel at the Well and the Holy Spring Bell Tower St. Spring of Savva Storozhevsky Konny Dvor

The Gateway Church of John the Baptist’s Nativity Instantly recognisable by its five gleaming gold domes, this church was built with the funding of the distinguished Stroganov family, and shows the typical Stroganov architecture with much attention to detail and use of classical baroque style. The church was built on the site of an older church of St. Sergiev, built in 1513 when the walls of the monastery were still wooden. The church’s geometrical style bears some resemblance to the Refectory church, with its octagonal windows and simple cube shape, surrounded on all sides by a gallery, and the complex multi faced domes have a distinctly baroque style. Its lower portion functions as the arched western gate to the monastery, and also provides access to two staircases leading up to the gallery surrounding the main cube shaped part of the building. 26 Moscow In Your Pocket

Bell Tower The Belfry of Sergiev Posad, built from 1741 to 1768 and standing at 88m tall, is unquestionably the centrepiece of Cathedral square. This five tiered bell tower emanates elegance, harmony and beauty and really epitomises the Russian architecture of the 18th century. It’s dominating height unites the nearby architecture, and if its appearance is hard enough to ignore one simply cannot miss the ringing of the bells. The Belfry housed a unique collection of bells that were unfortunately damaged or destroyed in 1930; 25 bells were broken, including the largest in Russia, the socalled Tsar bell. Consequently in 2004 the bells were recast in a Baltic factory in St. Petersburg, the largest of which weighs a staggering 72-tonnes, making it the largest in the world at the time. Tsarist Halls The so-called Tsarist halls or palaces are large two-storey buildings located in the North of the Monastery. Built in the late 17th century, the intention was to reflect the best qualities of the main monastery in Moscow. A stunning stucco decoration is preserved in the western part of the buildings, made in 1745-1748, portraying the battle of Peter I, with allegorical scenes and emblems. Since 1814 the palace has also become home to the Moscow Theological Academy. In the eastern part of the buildings, the academic temple, built in honour of the Protection of the Mother of God, was expanded significantly in 1982. With a decor of white stone and polychrome tiles, this is one of Moscow’s best baroque buildings, beautiful both on the outside and inside. moscow.inyourpocket.com

Sergiev Posad State History and Art Museum Reserve (Konny Dvor) After a Soviet decree, the Sergiev Posad State History and Art Museum-Reserve was opened on 20th April 1920. The collection of Old Russian art forming the main part of the museum became a significant and important part of Russian spiritual and cultural history, and was fortunately never censored, despite strong pressure from the anti-religious feeling in the 1930s. The first exhibition in 1920 focused on the history of local art, and indeed it was decided that this would form the beginning of the permanent History and Art Museum, and, as a result, the museum acquired the collection of the Moscow Museum of Handicrafts. During the Second World War, the majority of the museum’s artefacts were sent to safety behind the Urals, and, despite the turbulent period, the museum still received a strong number of visitors. After the war, the monastery resumed activity and cathedrals opened once again for services, and the restoration works continued. In the following years, there was a nationwide effort to discover more about folk art, and to display more contemporary applied and decorative art. The town was declared a tourist centre and part of the Golden Ring of towns in Russia in 1969, and a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site in 1993. QAptekarsky per. 2, tel. (+7) 496 540 53 26 and (+7) 496 540 53 50, www.musobl.divo.ru.

SergY radonezhsky The founder of the monastery, Sergy Radonezhsky, played a huge role in the socio-political and religious life of Russian people in the 14th and 15th centuries. He had over seventy students, who founded over fifty monasteries across all of Rus, ten of which are objects of Russian cultural heritage today. Thus was established the whole monastic school which would affect the future of the country’s culture. Sergy Radonezhsky also exercised a great spiritual authority and reconciled the Russian princes to each other, thus preventing civil war and unifying the Russian principalities into one state. In 1380 the Moscow prince Dmitry Donskoy came to Sergy at the monastery and requested a blessing on his battle against Tatar Mongol oppressors. This was the first victory for Russian troops over the oppressors and marked the beginning of liberation from the domination of the Tatars. During the troubled period from 16081610 the monastery withstood the siege of foreign interventionists and became once again the centre of political life of the country. Hence, in 1613, Tsar Mikhail Romanov went to Moscow to be crowned. At the monastery, Pyotr I twice survived attempts on his life from rebellion and musketeers of Princess Sofia in 1685. In the 19th century, the monastery became elected as a Patriarch of Moscow and all of Rus. St. Saava of Storzhev Spring By following the road skirting around the monastery to the right of the entrance for a few hundred metres you will reach the spring of St. Saava of Storzhev. St. Saava was one of the first disciples of St. Sergius and helped run the monastery after Sergius died. Like his leader St. Saava was an ascetic and prayed intensively. It is said that during one of his long praying sessions this spring appeared from the hill. Though considered religiously holy, due to local drainage the spring does not look immaculate. However, many people still come here to dunk themselves in the water and pray at the tiny wooden church next to it during their pilgrimage to Sergiev Posad.QUl. Suvorova/Reka Konchura. Blinnaya Gora (Pancake Hill) This is the photo op spot. If you decide to walk to the town centre from the train station you will pass here. In the summer there are sometimes shashlik and beer stands up here and in the evenings it is a favourite makeout point for the town’s youngsters.QSergievskaya ul. 1/ Voznesenskaya ul. 21.

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August - September 2014

Features

Features where to eat Sergiev Posad is most popular with religious pilgrims and in and around the monastery are numerous trapeznaya (canteens or refectories) catering to Orthodox tastes. Generally you can get a simple meal in these places for less than 300Rbl. Elsewhere there are restaurants catering for the tourist trade, almost all of which serve Russian cuisine and one or two slightly trendier restaurants and cafes aimed at the town’s younger less pious generation.

getting there Local trains (elektrichki) to Sergiev Posad leave regularly (every 20 - 45 minutes) from Yaroslavsky train station. The journey takes about 1 hour 20 minutes, or around 1 hour if you take an express train. Alternatively there are regular buses (no. 388) which leave from metro station VDNKh. We recommend travelling by train to avoid traffic jams. To get to the Lavra from the train (and bus) station: exit the train station cross over onto Kooperativnaya ul. Walk along this street until you see a big Matryoshka and at this set of traffic lights turn right onto Prospekt Krasnoy Army. Continue along this road for around 20 minutes and you will find the Lavra ahead of you on your left. Alternatively, there are one or two left turns off this road earlier on, taking you on a greener, more beautiful path to the Lavra, but be wary sign posts may only be written in Russian. There is also another way: from the station exit turn left and go straight on along Sergievskaya ul., leading to an observation platform which is a great place for photos with a beautiful backdrop of the monastery. The places near Sergiev Posad, however, are better accessible by car or taxi. Museum of Toys The Sergiev Posad region is where the first Russian dolls (martioshkas) were made and for decades they have continued to be manufactured at the town’s small factory. This museum focuses on toys in general with late 19th Century European and Japanese dolls displayed as well as Russian toys from over the last century. If you are only interested in seeing matrioshkas and other traditional Russian favourites you may be better off heading to the Konny Dvor museum, which costs a fraction of the price and has an equally nice - if not superior, selection of finely crafted Russian wooden and ceramic dolls and figurines.QPr. Krasnoy Armii 123, tel. (+7) 496 540 41 01. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Closed last Friday of the month. Admission 100 300Rbl. Guided tours up to 15 people 400-600Rbl per group. 28 Moscow In Your Pocket

Gostevaya Izba This is a restaurant that strives for authenticity, and even novelty, with its monastic surroundings. The building is long and low ceilinged with traditional dark wooden beams, carved benches and stained glass windows, where even the staff dressed as from the Middle Ages mean the whole place betrays nothing of the 21st century. The atmosphere is laid back and rural, and the menu offers hearty but sophisticated traditional Russian food prepared according to ancient monastic recipes and wine produced in the Lavra only a stone’s throw away. Here you can also try unique herbal teas. The rough purity of the place is in keeping with the serenity of the whole town, and will help you to forget the busy vibrant Moscow life.QStaraya Gostinitsa Lavry, Aptekarsky per. 1, tel. (+7) 496 541 43 43. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €.

Voznesenskaya Trapeznaya Trapeznaya restaurant is hidden inside Voznenskaya Hotel, a mere stone’s throw away from the Lavra. This buffet-styled restaurant serves hearty portions of those Russian homemade classics, so prepare yourself for salads, soups and starch galore - all served with a generous portion of meat of course! With juices, hot tea, coffee and fresh monastery bread, this kind of dining takes you back to basics. The simple food and modest price range reflects the religious nature of Sergiev Posad; this is a place where the emphasis is on monasteries, not materialism! Located less than 200 metres from the Lavra it couldn’t be any more convenient. QVoznesenskaya ul. 1, tel. (+7) 496 549 90 94. €.

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Trapeznaya Palata If this large dining hall isn’t booked out for a tour group, it makes a good value and atmospheric place to eat. Set in a 19th Century frescoed refectory close to the monastery, they serve Russian food according to the old recipes, and are especially good at pies and pastries - which you can wash down with drinks made by the monastery.QPr. Krasnoy Armii 133, tel. (+7) 496 549 90 49. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Russky Dvorik You can see Russky Dvorik being advertised everywhere - it is the premium restaurant in Sergiev Posad. And if you have money to splash out on a posher and more extravagant version of the same Russian food available all over town - well, why not? The theme here is full on - traditional costumes, music and heavy carved wood furniture and of course samovars. Everything is well presented and comes in huge portions and they also have good weekday lunch deals. Watch out for the tour groups at midday.QPr. Krasnoy Armii 134/2, tel. (+7) 496 540 51 14, www.russkydvorik-restaurant.ru. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00. €€. PTAEW

Hotels in Sergiev Posad Staraya Gostinitsa Lavry They say cleanliness is next to godliness and at the monastery’s own hotel (literally steps from the main monastery entrance), they certainly follow that principle - it is head to toe immaculate. The freshly renovated rooms of this original 19th Century pilgrim’s hotel are spacious enough and have power showers and doubleglazing. Don’t be surprised to see a lot of priests staying here and an icon in every room. Strictly no smoking or drinking. Guests are expected to behave conservatively and be respectful of Orthodox beliefs. Backpackers can get a bed in one of the quads if they are lucky for around 1,000Rbl.QPr. Krasnoy Armii 133, tel. (+7) 496 549 90 00, www.lavrahotel.ru. (Room prices start at 2,500Rbl).

San Marino A pleasant little pizzeria with bright walls, black and white tiled floors, potted plants and not an ounce of Russian kitsch in sight. The menu offers good quality large and crispy pizzas and Belgian waffles for dessert. Also great if just in search of a coffee - San Marino is one of the few places around with a real espresso machine. Round the corner and down the stairs their ‘art café’ has jazz music nights and a café bar atmosphere with some Asian dishes added to the pizzeria menu.QPr. Krasnoy Armii 138/2, tel. (+7) 916 990 60 54. Open 11:00 - 24:00. €. PTNGW Stary Botsman Decked out in full maritime theme, complete with waiters in sailor gear and a parrot on the bar, Stary Botsman is a boozy bar with a food menu solely created to soak up the alcohol. Choose from lackluster Russian standard salads and soups and meat in various styles such as ‘French’ and ‘Milanese’. If you can’t be without Russian women showing off on the dance floor, then you’re in luck - the bar also has loud Europop and a pole.QPr. Krasnoy Armii 146, tel. (+7) 496 540 36 92. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 02:00. €. PNW www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Posadsky Hotel There’s no disguising the gloomy modern exterior of this building, although inside more work has been done to try to add soul to the large open spaces and give the feel of a business hotel. Rooms are beige but benefit from mod cons like flat screen TVs and power showers. The restaurant has lunch discounts for guests and there’s an internet café in the courtyard out back.QPr. Krasnoy Armii 171, tel. (+7) 800 333 72 82, www.hotel-sposad. ru. 42 rooms (Room prices start at 3,200Rbl). Extra bed 1,050Rbl. August - September 2014

Features suburbs Apart from the Holy Trinity St. Sergius Lavra there are many other fascinating places in and around Sergiev Posad.

Another remarkable monastery just east of the Lavra is the Chernigovsky Skete (www.skit-chernigovsky. ru), unique in central Russia for hand-dug monk cells and prayer caves. Featuring the pseudo-Russian red-brick style, the Chernigovsky skete is a small complex on the northern shores of the Skitsky (Korbushinsky) pond with the Chernigovsky cathedral in the center, a holy spring in the caves underneath and a huge belfry above the gate. It was founded in 1847 and quickly blossomed into a top Orthodox monastery under Elder Barnabas of Gethsamene until it was shut down in 1922 after the Bolshevik revolution and used as a prison, nursing home and boarding school. Only in 1990 was it returned to the Lavra and has been going through a lengthy restoration process. It is quickly regaining its status and attracting pilgrims from all over the country and beyond – to bow to Elder Barnabas’ relics and 2 miraculous Chernigovskaya icon copies. Many also come here for the everyday unction sacrament with anointing. T he Spaso -Vifansk y monastery is just on the outskirts of Sergiev Posad and is relatively young compared to many other Orthodox churches. Construction began in 1783 on archbishop Platon’s order and lasted five years. The name comes from Bethany, a town in the New Testament, where Jesus miraculously resurrected Lazarus four days after his burial. Life at the monastery was calm until it met the same fate as many churches after the October Revolution of 1917 and in 1925 it was shut down and used for other purposes, many of its features being destroyed in the process. After the collapse of the Soviet Union the restoration process began and it now functions as a monastery for men. Although still not fully restored, parts of the monastery are open to the public. 30 Moscow In Your Pocket

Features Located on the scenic Pazhe river in the village of Khotkovo, the Pokrovsky Monastery is a must-visit cultural heritage sight with a rich history. It was first mentioned in 1308 making it one of the oldest monasteries in Russia, though the exact date of its founding is not known. Its most famous inhabitants were Kirill and Maria, the parents of Sergius of Radonezh. Here they died and here they are buried, their graves considered to be a very holy place. Like many other religious places, it was shut down in 1922 and reopened only in 1989 in dire need of restoration. Life in the monastery is very active: aside from the ongoing restoration process, there are daily services delivered here, the nuns go about various tasks like icon painting, sewing, baking and maintaining the territory. The monastery also serves as an orphanage and school for girls. On the weekends children are free to attend Sunday school and visitors can make use of the monastery’s library, well-stocked with a wide selection of books and scripts.

“Gremyachii Istochnik”, or the “Rattling/Thundering Spring”, is a famous 25 meter tall cascade of springs running from the walls of the cliff. It is considered to be a holy sight because, as the legend has it, it came to life after St. Sergius said a prayer on his way from Troitsa to Kirzhach. Today, the spring attracts hundreds of pilgrims every day who wish to take in the holiness of the water, which many believe to possess healing powers. Special baths and bridges allow visitors to bathe in the holy water and a chapel at the top of the spring makes prayer possible. The number of pilgrims usually peaks on January 19th, the day of the Baptism of Jesus according to the Gregorian calendar. On this day, Russian Orthodox believers are plunged into a blessed section of frozen water three times in remembrance of Jesus’ baptism in the river Jordan by John the Baptist. It is also believed that being submerged into the water on this day will cleanse the body’s sins and ensure a healthy year. Gremyachii Istochnik is located not far from Sergiev Posad but it is easiest to get there by car as there is no direct public transport taking visitors there.

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The tiny village of Radonezh, just 15 kilometers from Sergiev Posad, is closely linked to St. Sergius who was settled there by Ivan Kalita and eventually founded the Trinity Monastery to the north of of the town. Today, the remnants of Radonezh are located on an elevated cape, rounded by a curve of the Pazha River. The main attraction is the monument to St. Sergius opened in front of the local church in 1988. Designed by Vyacheslav Klykov, it was the first public statue to be erected in the Soviet Union without permission from the authorities. Though the population of the village numbered just 5 people in 2010, there is still a beautiful church to be found there. The Tserkov’ Preobrazhenia (Church of Transfiguration) was built between the years of 1836 and 1842.

Regarded more as an important historical and cultural sight rather than a religious one, the Alexandrovsky Kremlin is a beautiful Russian fortress and the Tsar’s residence. It was founded and prospered in the turbulent 16th century – the time of the reign of the first Russian tsar Ivan the 4th, also known as Ivan the Terrible. It was the period when the lands of Russia were united and formed the single state, when the foundations of absolute monarchy were laid down, when Russia established itself as the largest European power. This was the place where the Tsar received foreign diplomats and where his wedding ceremonies took place, making it the major political and cultural center of medieval Russia. The tsar left the fortress in 1581 never to return. The Assumption (Uspensky) nunnery was opened on its territory in the second half of the 17th century. Nowadays, it is considered to be relatively well-preserved: a considerable part of fascinating palaces and temples of the Alexandrov kremlin built by eminent Russian and Italian architects in the 16th century has remained to our time. The palace’s museum gives visitors an excellent opportunity to enjoy an exciting journey into Russia’s Middle Ages, reflected in 18 museum exhibitions.

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The Abramtsevo estate was originally owned by the well-known mid-19th Century author and devout Orthodox slavophile Sergei Asakov. The estate was bought in 1870 by the wealthy patron of the arts Savva Mamontov, whose influence established a colony of Russian Realist artists, actors and theatre directors. Directly behind the Abramtsevo railway station you should follow a path over a stream heading into the woods for a kilometer. After crossing a second stream near the main road you should walk up towards the estate where to the left is the Galeriya Hotel and to the right is the museum. The wooden manor house shows both the Mamontov’s art nouveau and the traditional Asakov styles, which can only be viewed as part of hourly excursions. Next door is the fairytale ceramic studio cottage, now the Museum of Folk Art. The traditional bathhouse is filled with Russian art nouveau furniture carved with folk-inspired designs featuring the owl symbol of the colony. Opposite stands the little ‘Hut on Chicken Legs’ built in honour of fairytale witch Baba Yega. The stone church, with its modern icons and floral decoration, is considered to be the first art nouveau Russian Orthodox church. The red roofed house exhibits the work of the children’s illustrators, the Palenovs.

SHOPPING The first Russian dolls were made in the Sergiev Posad and to this day the town still has a factory which produced high quality matrioshki. For certified quality try the Khudozhestvine izdeliya i igrushki shop at Pr. Krasny Armii 136 (also known just as the Martioshka shop). They sell great quality Russian dolls in traditional designs, as well wooden figures, dolls and wooden items for the home hand-painted in traditional designs for very reasonable prices. In the back of the store with the artist’s paints, papers and brushes you can find plain wooden dolls that you can paint yourself. Other souvenirs and dolls can be found in the market on the main square outside the monastery and over the road in the Vernissage market near the Russky Dvorik hotel. In the monastery’s bell tower you can also buy local souvenirs. For those looking for icons and other religious goods, this monastery might one of the best places in the whole country. August - September 2014

Where to eat

Where to eat Cafe Pushkin This aristocratic restaurant is extremely famous and popular with local business men and passing tourists. Diplomats, bankers and Moscow’s rich and famous now frequent it, but it used to be known as the city’s only upper class restaurant where you could eat European standard food and talk freely without being disturbed by the roaming ears of KGB men. The Russian and French cuisine recalls Tsarist times and on the first floor there is a sophisticated 24-hour café and a restaurant called the Library Room, which has a splendid view of Tverskoy Bulvar.QB-2, Tverskoy bul. 26a, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 739 00 33, www.cafe-pushkin.ru. The first floor open 24hrs, the second floor 12:00 - 23:30. €€€€. PAVGW Within the same Moscow city block you can find both good and bad service, five-star fine dining and hot dog snack vans. Muscovites love going out, so most restaurants tend to fill up quickly. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to book in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph into bars and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet. Tipping is one Western tradition that Russians are making their own. Tip for good service only - around ten percent is considered fair. Our price guide is based on the average price of a main course: € - 0 - 400Rbl €€ 400 - 800Rbl €€€ 800 - 1,200Rbl €€€€ 1,200Rbl plus

Russian and Ukrainian Cafe Chekhov Sitting next to the Chekhov theatre, the interior here has been inspired by the great playwright’s era. The dining room is decorated in beautiful bright white with art nouveau cornices, stained glass lamps and even the waitresses wear Edwardian costume. Chekhov boasts to serve ‘new Russian cuisine’, although in our book there’s nothing Russian about pasta and ruccola. Their version of borsch with apples in it is however a welcome innovation. Service can be frustratingly slow at times so don’t be shy with the staff. QKamergersky per. 3, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 06 16, www.cafe-chekhov.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAGSW

SYMBOL key P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

E Live music

S Take away

T Child-friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

G Non-smoking areas

L Guarded parking

V Home delivery

W Wifi

32 Moscow In Your Pocket

Mari Vanna Bookings for this popular restaurant are essential as the idea is that you are eating as if at a friend’s house and what kind of guest would turn up unexpected? With a reservation safely made the door to the flat will be unlocked for you and you’ll be invited in to dine on traditional Russian home food such as borsch, pelemeni and pirogi in a cute little place designed to look like an old (but unbroken) Russian flat. The food itself is not mindblowing, just plain good and filling but the service and homely atmosphere, complete with toys and crayons for the kids and the odd family pet trotting around certainly make it a memorable experience.QB-2, Spiridonievsky per. 10a, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 65 00, www.marivanna.ru. Open 09:00 until last guest. €€. PAVGSW Oblomov Named after the fat, lazy gourmant who was the hero of Goncharnov’s novel by the same name, this romantic restaurant is styled like a posh Russian country house with various sitting rooms with fireplaces, verandas and portrait-filled dining halls. The staff also wear traditional dress and greet you in old Russian. The Russian food on offer is beautifully presented, lovingly made and comes in huge portions. We were particularly impressed with the salads which were a step above the usual pickles with mayonaise and the little pies which taste just like babushka makes them.QD-5, 1-y Monetchikovsky per. 5, MDobryninskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 68 28, www.restsindikat.com/ restaurants/oblomov/?lang=1. Open 12:00 - 05:00. €€€. PAEGSW ShchiSliva Only a short walk away from the Kremlin, although not swamped with tourists, this light friendly café deserves a lot of credit for serving Russian food with a modern and healthy twist. The light, minimal decoration with traditional samovars gives the place an airy feel, and a whole page of menu is devoted to different tea infusions offering different remedies.QС-4, Ul. Volkhonka 9, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 499 393 39 61, www.volhonka9.ru/. Open 08:00 - 24:00. €. PTAGSW moscow.inyourpocket.com

Asian and Indian Maharaja Genuine Indian hospitality. From the moment you reach the door, you’ll receive service worthy of a Maharaja in this wellestablished Indian restaurant, which is popular with the local Indian community. The menu is huge and has all the favourites such as Madras, Rogan josh and tikka masala and believe us their curries are the real deal. If you want spice, you’ll get spice - the vindaloo will have even the hardest nuts crying into their naan breads. Worth every penny.QD-3, Starosadsky per. 1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 621 98 44, www. maharaja.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PAGW Tan It can be hard to find a really good Chinese restaurant, not just in Moscow, but in many cities. However Tan, just off Triumphalnaya Square, defies this. The menu boasts a huge range of choice of high quality traditional Chinese, Japanese and Vietnamese dishes, more modern adaptations and as a vast selection of teas. The service is impeccable, the decor is oriental but comfortable, and the sophisticated yet relaxed atmosphere is enhanced by the house pianist. This is the perfect venue to go to with a group of friends, either after work, on the weekend or to celebrate a special occasion and sample as many of the dishes as possible.QB-1, Oruzheiny per. 13, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 787 51 88, www.restorantan.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PAGSW Tibet Himalaya The Tibet Himalayan is no secret to the expat community as the long-standing venue for the Tuesday night “Curry Club.” What’s more, it offers a Buddha bellyfilling, valuefor-money business lunch that even the Dalai Lama himself would approve of! Though far from the Himalayan mountains tops, this colourful basement restaurant brings a note of tranquillity to the bustling metropolis. A different menu each weekday with soup, bread, a choice of starter and main course (often yak meat), rice, dessert, and a drink to wash it down. Vegetarian and fish options are available, too. A rare opportunity to try Kalmyk specialities a la carte. Also at pr. Mira 79 (metro Rizhskaya).QC-2, Shopping centre Nikolskaya Plaza, ul. Nikolskaya 10, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 287 20 21, www.tibethimalaya.ru. Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAEGSW U-Me U-Me means “dream” in Japanese. Sitting in pan-Asian furniture with kabuki characters on the walls, you soon realise that this is no ordinary restaurant. Japanese rice as it should be, typical side dishes, fresh ingredients, authentic flavours. If it’s good enough to keep the Japanese in Moscow satisfied, it’s good enough for me. Their extensive business lunch menu, including takeaway bento boxes, is matched by the wide selection of sashimi and sushi. Reservations essential in the evenings and weekends; they even deliver.QE-2, Ul. Pokrovka 38A, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 621 78 40, www.u-me.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAVGS www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Russian summer menu

The typical Russian menu may usually be full of hearty warm soups, pies and dumplings to help one get through the bitterly cold winter months, but come summer some special warm weather dishes also make their way on to the Russian menu. Drinks. Typical homemade summer drinks include kvass and mors. Kvass is a very specific eastern European drink that only ever usually appears in summer. Made from fermented rye bread, this soft drink has a very distinct taste that is kind of like beer but not and yes, you can really taste the bread in there too. As summer is berry season mors, a bitter berry drink served very cold is also very popular in summer as are other sweeter berry juice based drinks known as kompot, which can be made from practically any berry that you may find. Soups. Russian cuisine revolves around soups and many of the classic Russian soups such as borsch may often turn up cold. Borsch even has a special sour tasting brother called Shavelyevy soup which is made from sorrel (shavel) which usually grows in June/July. Ukha or fish soup is a popular warm soup in summer as like elsewhere many Russians like to spend a summer’s day fishing on the country’s lakes or river. The ultimate classic Russian summer soup though is okroshka. Okroshka usually consists of different boiled vegetables such as carrots or potatoes, fresh cucumbers and heaps of dill, parsley and spring onions. Different meats or boiled eggs are also often added and then the whole thing is topped off with plenty of kvass or sometimes even kefir (a kind of natural sour milk). It is as it sounds, quite an acquired taste… The main course. Salads are universally popular year round in Russia, seeing as they are one of the simplest staples of Russian cuisine, but come summer the real powerhouse of the Russian table is the shashlik (shish kebab). Marinated in different herbs and spices and then grilled over an open fire, the smell of sizzling shashlik is the sign that summer has truly arrived. As the dish actually originates from the south it is often accompanied with Caucasian sauces such as adzhika (a kind of spicy ketchup) as well as raw onions and a handful of zelen (green herbs such as parsley and dill). In Russian style a piece of rye bread is also a popular accompaniment. As it is technically their national dish, Caucasian restaurants usually serve up the best shashliks. August - September 2014

Where to eat Beer Restaurants KoZlOvica Keep an eye to the sky to spot this traditional Czech pub from the street. In this medieval hall with carved wooden furniture, you will find no nonsense wholesome Czech food, including the famous beer sausages, accompanied by top quality authentic Czech beer served at the optimum temperature of 10-12 degrees, at which the locals say it releases its true flavour. Also at ul. Sretenka 4 (metro Turgenevskaya) and sh. Entuziastov 12/2 (metro Aviamotornaya). QD-4, Pyatnitskaya ul. 29, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 28 23, www.kozlovica. ru/moscow. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PASW Pilsner Already seeing almost three million people through its doors since its founding in 2005, the Pilzner chain has sold a staggering 3,000 tons of local Czech beer. Head chef, Robert Masopust, brings traditional meat heavy Czech cuisine straight from Prague, where classic beer sausages dominate the menu, although a fine choice of other specialties and large salads are on offer as well. Also at Pokrovka 15/16 (Kitay Gorod), 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 1 (metro Mayakovskaya), ul. Presnensky Val 4/29 (metro Ulitsa 1905 goda) and ul. Bol. Polyanka 44/2 (metro Polyanka). QD-5, Ozerkovskaya nab. 56, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 86 33, www.pilsner.ru/about_restaurants/ paveletskaya. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PAGSW

Cafes and Bakeries Jeffrey’s Coffee In Jeffrey’s you pay for the time you are at this American coffee bar. Their professional barista prepares great drinks and during the day you can sit and relax and perhaps get a little work done. In the evening this bar becomes jazzy, with live music and a homey atmosphere. You can buy a guest card for 350 rubles and spend the whole day enjoying coffee, tea, cold drinks, sweets and snacks. What generosity in Moscow these days!QD-2, Ul. Maroseyka 15, MKitay Gorod, tel. +7 495 623 87 77, www. jeffreyscoffee.ru. Open 8:30 - 23.00, Thu 8:30 - 24.00, Fri 8:30 - 6:00, Sat 10:00 - 6:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. €. PAGW

Where to eat Khleb and Co This chic Parisian patisserie makes for an effortlessly stylish environment to enjoy a quick coffee, and the heaps of carefully baked goods seek to underline the cultural importance of bread in Russia as in France. All sorts of breads and pastries, both French and Russian style, will fill a corner as you pop in to or from work. Also at ul. Tverskaya Yamskaya 12/14 (metro Mayakovskaya), Chistoprudny bul. 12/4 (metro Chistye Prudy) and ul. Ostozhenka 3 (metro Kropotkinskaya). QB-2, Malaya Bronnaya 21/13, bldg. 2, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 86 94, www.eatout.ru/ cafe/hleb.html. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 08:00 - 22:00. €€. PAG Madame Boulanger This quaint little French-style bakery and cake shop sells all manner of fresh baked breads and savoury snacks such as quiches, sandwiches, salads and pies. On the sweet side there’s plenty to tickle your fancy with the classic French éclairs, handmade chocolates, macaroons and of course obvious favourites croissants. If you choose to eat in you’ll have the extra delight of dining from gorgeous mismatched antique fine china crockery and admire the charming interior, or opt to sit out on the summer terrace with views of the boulevard, and musicians are welcome to serenade the other guests on their piano. Drinks are also available to go; cakes and other tasty treats can be made to order and delivered to your door.QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 12, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 19 01, www.madameboulanger.ru. Open 08:00 - 22:00. €. PASW

Caucasian Khachapuri An inexpensive little Georgian café with a minimalist interior that shuns the usual plastic grapes and kitschy music in favour of bright New York loft style surroundings. The khachapuri (cheese bread) after which it is named, is quite OK and in our book any place that will serve you Georgian cheese bread with an egg on top for breakfast will always get a big thumbs up. The shashlik (shish kebabs) comes accompanied by plenty of greens and onions and is washed down nicely with homemade fruit drinks.The tables are all cramped together giving the place a noisy diner feeling, complimented by a particularly eclectic clientele. Also at Ukrainsky bul. 7 (metro Kievskaya).QB-2, Bol. Gnezdnikovsky per.10, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 66 56, www.hacha.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Sat, Sun 11:00 23:00. €. PAVEGSW Noev Kovcheg The rich traditional Armenian décor, low lighting, and even a pond of tropical fish just inside the entrance define Noev Kovcheg as a destination of Moscow’s finest. Appropriately named, the venue was in fact opened on the 17th of the 7th month – the day when Noah’s ark ran aground on Mount Ararat in the bible story and the hulking building looming on the hill immediately

34 Moscow In Your Pocket

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puts you in mind of an ark, feeling mysteriously Tardis like with its many interlinking chambers and floors. The food explores all of Armenian cuisine, with many classic shish kebab dishes from fresh meat delivered daily. A classy bar will provide you with fine wines.QD-3, Maly Ivanovsky per. 9, MKitai Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 917 07 17, www.noevkovcheg.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PAVGSW Sakhli Sakhli is a class act with a menu developed from old Georgian family recipes, a very warm and inviting country home style interior, complimented by a quiet summer terrace. Of particular note are the excellent lobio kakhetinsky (kidney beans with onions and spices), the irresistible cheese khinkali (giant cheese filled dumplings) and the grilled meats. A mix of cold phakhli (a kind of thick Georgian dip) featuring aubergines, spinach and sweet peppers is great for groups, while the desserts are nicely displayed to help you make up your mind about how to finish up an excellent meal.QС-1, Bol. Karetny per. 6, bldg.1, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 699 91 71, www.sahli.ru/en. Open 12:00 - 23:00. €€. PAEGSW Suliko on Patriarshie Suliko is a place to eat and eat very well. Famous in Moscow for its khinkali, the giant meat-filled dumplings here do not disappoint. With the perfect blend of herbs and spices, they are rightly said to be some of the best outside of Georgia. Service is low key but spotless and a word of warning; order carefully, in traditional style, the portions here are really big.QB-2, Ermolaevsky per. 7, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 41 89, www. suliko.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:30, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:30. €€. PAGSW

European Brix If it is fine wine you seek, look no further. There are few better bars where you can sip a good wine in good company than at Brix 2. Whilst the bar’s chic character may match its classy customers - neither reflect its modest prices. With wines so well-selected and well-priced, what’s the catch? We still haven’t found one!QB-2, Maly Kozykhinsky pereulok 10/1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 925 95 94, www.brix-bar.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. PANW Cafe Tchaikovsky A sprawling café and restaurant understandably popular with theatre and classical music enthusiasts as it is located right in the centre of Moscow theatre land and literally underneath the Moscow Conservatory. Dark lighting, leather and mahogany furniture and elegantly dressed waiters create a pleasantly grand atmosphere although a bit more classical music on the stereo would perhaps better suit the surroundings. Regardless the menu is packed with well-made Russian classics and a wide selection of pizza, pasta, grilled fish and the like meaning there’s something www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

for everyone. Tchaikovsky also has an extensive selection of great cakes, pastries and other desserts to sample if you decide just to pop in for a coffee and a snack.QB-1, Triumfalnaya pl. 4/31, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 91 14, novikovgroup.ru/restaurants/chaykovskiy/. Open 10:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAGSW Coin Despite its name, this former printhouse offers a very reasonably priced varied menu of fantastic European food and boasts a drinks menu for any occasion. Owner Alexander Shikin has plans to introduce concerts and exhibitions to this vast, stylishly renovated industrial space where there are already multiple screens for sports viewing. Be sure to check the restaurant’s Facebook page for updates. QD-5, Pyatnitskaya ul. 71/5, bldg. 2, MDobryninskaya, tel. (+7) 495 227 67 80, www.coin-hall.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PAGW Food Embassy Everything about Food Embassy screams hip. From their trendy music indoors to the Miami vibe outdoors, you’ll only find the coolest cats here. As appearances go their décor is faultless, and this is mirrored by their presentation of food, which too was perfect. Though there's a clear emphasis on quality over quantity, you won’t hear any complaints from us about that! QD-1, Prospekt Mira 26, bldg. 8, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 256 04 03, www.foodembassy.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAEGW August - September 2014

Where to eat Interview with the chef Please tell us something about yourself. My name is Robert Masopust, I’m 42 years old, born in Prague, and I graduated from the Prague Institute of Service. I’ve worked in the restaurant of the luxury hotel ‘Ambassador Golden Goose’, then in the restaurant, ‘Golden Pear’ and further in the network project of restaurants, ‘Ambiente’, as a chef. In 2002 I was invited to work as a chef in one of the Pilzner restaurants in the Cezch Republic and from this in August 2005 I received an invitation to Moscow, for the opening of the restaurant ‘Pilsner. Czech Brewery’ in Mayakovke. Whilst I was originallly only appointed for 3 months, it’s turned out that I’ve stayed on since then here. What makes Moscow a special place for you? Moscow for me, above all, involves much more creative work. Here we get the chance to change the menu every season, as well as the special offers - this has great scope for creativity. We have a very friendly team, and therefore perhaps for me Moscow has become a second home. Although there is not a lot of time for myself, I still manage to play hockey. Hockey has really brought us and the guests closer together. We have a wonderful tradition in our restaurant we hold an annual hockey tournament, called the “Pilsner Cup”. The tournament consists of guests of the restaurant who love this sport. In the final, we along with the winning team go to Prague to play with an amateur Czech team. Last year we played with an amateur team who turned out to be from the city Pilsner!

Where to eat Hediard Hediard is the equivalent of Willy Wonka’s Chocolate factory for French cuisine. The shop downstairs is packed with all kinds of foodie delights from beautifully decorated cakes and handmade chocolates, to Camemberts and bries, to all kinds of pates and chutnies. The cafe upstairs is delightfully sophisticated, if not a little small. However what it lacks in seating space, it certainly makes up for with a menu over 44 pages long! For those with a sweet tooth, head straight to the patisserie/ dessert section where you will be faced with the virtually impossible task of choosing between freshly made macaroons,eclairs, tarts and many more culinary delights.QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 23, bldg. 1, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 32 88, www. hediard.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. €€. PAGSW Lucien Opening the menu you are met by classic French, Russian and Jewish inspired cuisine. Don’t miss out on the signature Olivier salad with smoked fish for starters and then follow it up with quail, duck confit, sturgeon, veal, beef tenderloin or a classic Stroganoff… the mouthwatering list goes on. All the mains are matched with exquisite garnishes depending on the dish such as warm beetroot-apple pie or Russian pancakes stuffed with porcini mushrooms. If you are in a large group try out the Samovar option - tea from a real Russian samovar with all the traditional accompaniments.QC-1, Ul. Gilyarovskogo 65, bldg. 1, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 997 76 65, www.lucienrest.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PASW

Why should people visit Pilsner? Pilsner is a restaurant with an atmosphere of true Cezch brewery. It’s always fun here, there’s a lot of company and very many foreigners. For Muscovites, it most of all offers the possibility to try Czech cuisine and to have a chat with friends over a glass of Czech beer.

Scandinavia An icon amongst Moscow’s expat scene, Scandinavia has been providing smiley service for almost twenty years now. This restaurant offers a simple menu of Swedish goodies such as gravadlax, baltic herring and meatballs. Not everything is from the north, as their bar menu also has a hefty and popular burger. The central location and calm international atmosphere means there are more than a few suits and ties dropping in after work and especially on Fridays service can get slow.QB-2, Maly Palashevsky per. 7 (enter from Tverskaya ul.19 ), MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 56 30, www.scandinavia.ru. Open 12:00 24:00. €€. PTAGSW

Funky Lab Popcorn with hot chilli sauce might sound like a strange combo, but not at Funky Lab. What’s really in a name? This restaurant serves food in a funky way, with a lot of attention being placed on how it is presented to you. Don’t be surprised when you pick out a dish here just because of the way it looks. But the best thing about Funky is that while presenting it all in a beautiful and funny way, the food is just plain good, with a relaxed atmosphere, friendly service and with very reasonable prices in a down-toearth location.QC-4, Ul. Bolshaya Polyanka 7/10, bldg 1, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 951 06 07, www.funkylabbar.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 02:00, Sat 14:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. €€. PAGSW

Yornik Meaning something like joker in Russian, the general design and atmosphere goes against the name and is wonderfully calming, rather than wise-cracking and outlandish. Art deco design features on the tables and walls give Yornik an eye-catching and elegant 1930s New York hotel bar look and service remains discreet but professional making it a great place for private business discussions or intimate meetings. The menu takes a new approach to Russian staple ingredients resulting in new creations such as risotto made from buckwheat as well as some classics. QA-1, Bol. Gruzinskaya ul. 69, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 789 92 50, www.ernik.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€€. PTAGSW

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International Dandy cafe There’s a place in central Moscow where you can go for breakfast, lunch, dinner, cocktails, dancing and then brunch, so basically you never have to even leave! Dandy cafe on Novy Arbat is a favorite among hipsters, expats, businessmen and trendy cosmopolites alike. So why has this place established itself as one of the hippest and most popular places in the capital to hang out, feast, drink and dance? The food and drinks are superb yet prices don’t pinch, the low-key ambience allows guests to unwind, relax and be themselves and fun events take place almost on a nightly basis.QA-3, Ul. Novy Arbat 28, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 05 38, www.dandytimes. ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PAEGSW Delicatessen In Moscow it’s often the impossible to find places that turn out to be the best and Delicatessen definitely falls into this category of hidden treasure. Go in to the courtyard of building 20 (where the coffee shop is), veer left and you will find a colourful entrance way announcing ‘thank you for finding us’. Down in this bustling basement with its gorgeous antique bar, enthusiastic foodies dig into an array of the chef’s favourite things.QC-1, Sadovaya-Karetnaya ul. 20, bldg. 2, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 699 39 52, www.newdeli.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Sun. €€. PAEGSW Deti Raika It’s hard to miss this place just off the Arbat and close to the conservatory and theatres. The colourful exterior with a terrace outside is inviting to many musicians, actors and journalists who make this their favourite hangout. Deti Raiki or Children of Paradise is a French film directed in 1945 and the owner’s favourite film. The varied menu offers anything from pizzas to steak, sandwiches, salads as well as some tasty fish dishes. With live music in the weekends, ranging from jazz to lounge and even French chansons this place comes recommended.QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 25, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 19 42, www.detirayka.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PAEW Funny Cabany Funny Cabany is the perfect place for carnivores to congregate. The lively atmosphere and a deceptively simple yet modest, vintage interior decor compliments the extensive barbecue and grill menu, which features everything from homemade sausages and burgers, to deliciously tender steaks. A delicious fish menu is also available for the non meat eaters. Add friendly, welcoming staff, very generous portion sizes and if you’re lucky, a visit from the resident micropig, Funny Alexandrovich, Funny Cabany is not a restaurant to miss out on. In the summer their large rooftop terrace is a great addition, with 2 bars, a grill, barbecue parties, brunches and lots of parties.QB-1, Ul. Mal. Dmitrovka 5, bldg. 9, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 220 25 02, www.funnycabany.ru. Open Ma - Thu 12:00 - 24:00, Fri and Sat until last guest. €€. PAGW www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Quality cuisine and culture

Open 12:00 - 24:00 Pyatnitskaya ul. 71/5, bldg. 2, (+7) 495 227 67 80

Sounds like a BARgain Open 12:00 - 24:00 Maly Kozykhinsky pereulok 10/1, (+7) 495 925 95 94 Jerome&Patricе Those of you who have had the pleasure to enjoy dinning at one of the Ginza Project’s numerous restaurants will be pleased to discover yet another restaurant to treat your taste buds. Jerome&Patrice takes a new look at authentic French provincial cooking. The head chefs Jerome Coustillas and Patrice Terejoles have taken care to preserve French traditions while taking the best out of modern trends in international cuisine. The restaurant has also tried to keep up with modern demands for healthy eating and natural food.QD-3, Slavyanskaya pl. 2, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 784 69 69, www.ginzaproject.ru/ MOSCOW/Restaurants/jerome-partice. Open 12:00 24:00. €€€. PAGSW Kon-Tiki If you are looking for a bite to eat and a bit of fun, look no further than Kon-Tiki and it’s island grill. Guests are surrounded by typical Hawaiian wooden carvings and an impressive aquarium that runs the length of the wall - this is truly Hawaii in Moscow. During the weekend the restaurant is always buzzing with the music and energy from Caribbean and Latino themed parties. The authentic Hawaiian style cocktails are moderately priced, so forget your worries and enjoy the rhythm of a salsa or rumba, whilst sipping on the Aztec Surfboard or Ginger Mango Punch, delicious!QC-2, Ul. Rozhdestvenka 5/7, bldg. 2, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 767 87 20, www. kontiki-cafe.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PAEGSW August - September 2014

Where to eat SUMMER terraces

Summer is finally here and what a wonderful time it is to be living it up on the city’s many summer terraces and beer gardens. In Moscow you’ve a whole range of places that you can perch up at and enjoy the sun. From May until September Moscow is filled with al fresco drinking and dining options - from the cafes lined up along Moscow’s main walking streets Stary Arbat and Kamergersky pereulok, to the open roofs and balconies of old factories and swanky high rise shopping centres and on into the secluded gardens and courtyards of the city’s back streets. Moscow In Your Pocket picks out some of the best places to eat and drink in the open air: Art Clumba QArt Clumba na Yauze, Nizhnaya Syromyatnicheskaya 5/7, bldg. 10, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 499 678 02 25, www.artclumba.ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Dacha na Pokrovke QЕ-3, Pokrovsky bul.18/15 bldg. 2 (entrance on Podkolokolny per.), MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 499 764 99 95, www.dacha-napokrovke.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PAESW Deti Raika QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 25, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 19 42, www.detirayka.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. €€. PAEW Gogol QC-2, Stoleshnikov per. 11, bldg. 1, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 514 09 44, www.gogolclubs.ru. Open 12:00 - 05:00. Fri, Sat 24hrs. €. PAESW Le Pain Quotidien QC-2, Kamergersky per. 5/6, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 989 45 60, www.lpq.ru. Open 07:00 - 00:00, Sat, Sun 08:00 - 00:00. €. PASW Madame Boulanger QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 12, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 19 01, www.madame-boulanger.ru. Open 08:00 - 22:00. €. PASW €€. PASW Scandinavia QB-2, Mal. Palashevsky per. 7, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 56 30, www.scandinavia.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00. €€. PASW Sky Lounge QLeninsky pr. 32a, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 781 57 75, www.skylounge.ru. Open 13:00 until last guest. €€€. PASW 40 Moscow In Your Pocket

Where to eat Neskuchny Sad This restaurant is in a truly stunning location-set atop a renovated barge at Frunzenskaya Naberezhnaya opposite Gorky Park, the rooftop veranda has views of the parks on the other side of the river and down to the Kremlin. Neskuchny Sad serves classic dishes as well as Italian cuisine, with large pizzas. The cocktail menu is artisan and extensive – we tried the Lychee Martini and the Mango and Rosemary Cointreau Fizz. The restaurant is gaining in popularity with a smart clientele, so do book ahead.QB-5, Frunzenskaya nab. 18D, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 363 64 64, www.nesad.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. €€€. PAESW Sky Lounge Fantastic! This restaurant is worth visiting just to experience the view alone. Perched up on the 22nd floor you can gaze over the whole of Moscow and admire the iconic seven sisters skyscrapers spreading out into the distance. Sky Lounge really has the monopoly on the one-of-a-kind panorama. The menu meets up to the general experience by being filled with well-crafted dishes covering a wide range of cuisines expertly. Many of the dishes are truly delightful and the portions are more generous than you will see almost anywhere else. QLeninsky pr. 32a, 22nd floor, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 781 57 75, www.skylounge.ru. Open 13:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat 13:00 - 01:00. €€€. PGSW Town House A welcoming interior, an unpretentious European chic and a menu that borrows something from cuisines of every continent make this restaurant a must for hotel guests and locals alike. The head chef has a special knack for everything grilled so a steak or grilled fish/seafood simply cannot be missed! The warm octopus salad is the most delightful starter for any meal. An après lunch or dinner coffee/tea can be best enjoyed in the bar area with its dimmed down lights, extra comfortable arm chairs and a growing library in the upstairs area, which is also suitable for cocktail receptions and other events ranging from book readings to jazz band performances.QD-6, Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya Hotel, ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.mercure. com. Open 06:00 - 23:00. €€€. PTASW

MoMo Named as an amalgamation of mozzarella and Montasia in Northern Italy, Momo proudly promises the best of Italian food, offering many meat and fish dishes alongside the classic pizza and pasta, and a selection of French and Italian vintage wines. Its business class clientele are spread across three main rooms, the largest of which resembles a summer conservatory complete with cushioned wicker chairs.QD-5, Pyatnitskaya ul. 66, bldg. 2, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 953 95 20, www.momorest.ru. Open 11:00 - 24:00. €€. PTAGSW Palazzo Ducale Pallazo Ducale is about as close as you may ever come to dining in a palace, the kind of majestic, luxurious setting that perhaps only royalty are accustomed to. Though the price is well above average the restaurant has a legitimate case to suggest it merely reflects its quality. The restaurant is renowned for its table service in both breakfast room and main restaurant, both meeting the highest expectations. QB-2, Tverskoy bul. 3, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 978 71 73, www.palazzodukale.ru. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. €€€€. PTAEGSW Tarantino Looking for an unpretentious place where it’s all about the food and a down-to-earth atmosphere? Tarantino restaurant offers just that: Italian and American cuisine at its best with a spectacular view over the glitzy Novy Arbat Street but without the extortionate prices characteristic of other Moscow eateries. The portions are generous, the interior is homey which makes for a very pleasant and low key meal with friends or family. And especially for mozzarella lovers there’s an extensive “mozzarella bar” where you can choose what you’d like on your plate or in a doggy bag. Menu specialties: grilled meat and seafood and a wide assortment of traditional Italian pizzas and pastas.QB-3, Ul. Novy Arbat 15, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 764 35 35, www.tarantinorest.ru. Open 12:00 - 00:00, Fri and Sat 12:00 - 05:00. €€. PAW

Italian

Porto Maltese This restaurant adds a touch of maritime derring-do to the slightly formal surroundings. The décor has a strong sea-faring flavor, matching a menu which offers more than 20 different types of fish and seafood - all of which are regularly flown in direct from the Med. The ‘buzare’ fish soup is regarded as classic warmer, while exotic offerings include swordfish and skate wings as well as all the usual fishy favorites. Porto Maltese offers a welcome change of direction in a city where fish so often means sushi. Also at Bol. Spasskaya ul. 8, bldg. 1A (metro Sukharevskaya), ul. Pravdy 21 (metro Belorusskaya) and Leninsky pr. 11.QBusiness center Monarch, Leningradsky pr. 31, bldg. 1, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 232 04 85, www.portomaltese. ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. €€. PALGSW

Steak Houses Butchery Bar and Grill A leather bound menu offering platters to share, steaks and other cuts of meat all cooked to tender perfection leaves you in no doubt as to the restaurant’s culinary focus. The shadowy interior with minimalist decoration has the feeling of a sophisticated living room, albeit one complete with a large bar, and indeed the customers here seem to happily relax as if at home.QBaumanskaya ul. 54, bldg. 1, MBaumanskaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 06 05, www.rmcom. ru/page-butchery. Open 06:30 - 4:00. €€. PAGW GOODBEEF This steak cafe is a great choice for those who want their meat fast and red. There’s no messing about here, you simply go to the counter and choose a rib-eye, sirloin or fillet mingon and some garnishes, tell them how you want it made up and it arrives at your table within minutes. With fussy service and overstyled interiors not part of the game here, the prices are low, but as the concept is from down under, you can be sure the meat is a healthy slab of Australian goodness. The business lunch is particularly good value for money.QD-2, Bol. Cherkassky per.15-17, bldg.1, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 220 13 20, www.goodbeef.ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PAEGSW Polo club The refined and sophisticated Polo Club’s defining dish is its outrageously delicious slow roasted prime beef fillet. It needs to be ordered a day in advance, as to reach its most incredible tenderness it is achingly slowly roasted for 12 hours. If you can’t think that far ahead the Angus, Prime and Kobe steaks on offer are also outstanding. Make sure you save some appetite for the starters too. The menu has been completely revamped, taking on Asian influences which manifest themselves in dishes such as an authentic (and very spicy!) tom yam soup and a mouthwatering Asian salmon teriyaki.QC-2, Marriott Royal Aurora, ul. Petrovka 11, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 10 24, www.marriottmoscowroyalaurora. com. Open 18:00 - 24:00. €€€. PASW

Mamma Giovanna This low ceilinged, darkly lit restaurant perhaps doesn’t make the best of its excellent canal views, but what it lacks in vistas it makes up for with its menu and darkly intimate atmosphere. The crispy pizzas here are particularly delectable and fortunately the place is laidback enough that you can go to town on them with your hands. The mains such as the excellent grilled tuna are also worth plumping for and will certainly be filling, although desserts are markedly dull in comparison.QC-4, Kadashevskaya hotel, Kadashevskaya nab. 26, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 87 20, www.mamma-giovanna.ru. Open 07:30 - 23:00. €€. PTAGSW moscow.inyourpocket.com

Seafood

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August - September 2014

Where to eat

Where to eat Fish Point Gone are the days when man would go out into the nature to get his food himself…or are they? Fish Point, located in the Zolotoi Fazan fishing complex about 10km northwest of Moscow’s city edges, offers guests a chance to get their hands on some fishing rods and try their luck at catching roughly 15 different types of freshwater fish. From its spacious and country style terrace, the restaurant overlooks the lovely Lipka river and the luscious forest surrounding it. Fresher fish is probably impossible to come by anywhere in the Moscow area and the chefs have their own unique way of preparing all sorts of delicacies from various seas and lakes. QNovorizhskoe Shosse, 29km, MVolokolamskaya, tel. (+7) 495 220 36 65, www.fishpointrest. ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Getting there: from the metro take marshrutka 209 or 151. €€. PAW

Every foreigner coming to Moscow will almost always have the following stereotype: Russia is the coldest country in the world, where winter lasts for four to five months throughout the larger part of its territory. And true as it may be, the stereotype forgets to mention how beautiful, blooming and hot our summers can be! Typically, our summers don’t last more than three months so when it finally arrives we just love to do everything outdoors: cyclists, rollers and skateboarders cut through the city streets, a huge number of cafes set up their own summer terraces on the streets and locals spend time walking along the river, which is one of the best places to marvel at the beautiful sunset. Many Muscovites respond to the summer heat by spending as much time out of the city as possible, either on holiday or at the dacha. Not everyone is lucky enough to have a dacha, however. So we’ve decided to compile a little list of really cool and cooling restaurants outside the city, in the nature, to make the most of your Russian summer experience. Ermak A tranquil setting in the beautiful Russian nature, a lively little stream flowing from the lush forest, traditional Russian huts and wells reminding us of the olden days and a serene river providing a nice fresh breeze…sounds like a place far far away, doesn’t it? Well, it’s not! Welcome to Ermak restaurant, located just a short distance away from Moscow’s Krylatskoe metro station. The interior has an authentic medieval Russian feel to it while the summer veranda - under the soft shade of the trees - overlooks the river and the gently rolling hills. The menu is full of hearty Russian delicacies such as soups, pies, pickled vegetables, pelmeni and meats/fish prepared over hot burning coal. QUl. Nizhnie Mnevniki 41/1, MKrylatskoe, tel. (+7) 499 728 20 03, www.restoran-ermak.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. Getting there: from the metro go to the bus station (5 min) and take bus 271. €€€€. PAW 42 Moscow In Your Pocket

Florentini Country Café Authentic Italian food, a peaceful forest setting and a lovely summer veranda - what more could you wish for on a scenic summer day? Thankfully, Florentini has all this! Located just outside Moscow’s main ring road to the south, Florentini has that relaxing atmosphere that you sometimes desperately need after the hustle bustle of the city. And make sure to arrive very hungry because the pizza is authentic, the risottos and pasta plentiful, the meats and fish simply to die for, the salads fresh and the desserts scrumptious!QKaluzhkoe Shosse, Dubrovka, Sosnovaya ul. 3B, MTeply Stan, tel. (+7) 495 225 36 86, www. florentinicafe.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. Getting there: from the metro take marshrutka 398 or 531 to Dubrovka. PAW Shorehouse Perhaps it’s not quite the marina of Monaco, but ShoreHouse restaurant by the yacht club at Crocus City is the only place just within Moscow’s city limits that can come close. During the summer months this restaurant/poolside terrace is the ideal place to catch some sun, take a dip in the pool with you refreshing drink of choice, enjoy the view of yachts gently rocking on the waves, feel the fresh breeze from the river and, of course, savor some fantastic dishes ranging from fresh seafood to sushi, and from traditional Russian dishes to Central Asian specialties. This is also an ideal place for all kinds of events, corporate or private.QCrocus City Mall, MKAD 65 - 66 Km, MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 495 727 26 78, www.sh-crocus.ru/ru/ restaurant. Open 12:00 - 02:00. €€€. PALW

Bogdarnya Do you need a break from constant meetings, traffic, calls, emails, car alarms going off, drilling and everything else that big city life entails? Are you tired of all the GMO and chemical-pumped produce that all the supermarkets seem to be selling? If your answer is yes, why not get back to nature, breathe some fresh country air and try a taste of agritourism! Interested? Then a great place to do this is at the Bogdarnya Agricultural and Touristic Complex.

This 400-hectare riverside property is located in the picturesque countryside and forest about 120 kilometres east of Moscow (in Vladimir region, near the town Petushki), providing the chance to experience life on a real, working farm that supplies meat to its own farm shop in Moscow. Here you can learn all about meat production from paddock to plate, watch cheese making, milk the cows, pet the goats, feed Boris the boar and engage yourself in other forms of educational “agritainment”. Bogdarnya also provides a wide range of recreational activities, including horse riding, quad biking, fishing, canoeing, hiking, paintball and more.

Bogdarnya also has two stables mostly with Russian breeds of horses including Vyatki, Donchaki, Orlov trotters and Vladimir Heavy Draft which were all used on the track in former times either for riding or harness work. Visitors can enjoy any type of equestrian activity from short 30 minute rides for beginners with a trainer to longer three hour rides, as well as coach rides, sledge rides. The facility can also support classical equestrian sport with three parade fields. The complex also hosts children’s camps, career guidance programs for school students, plus corporate events, training and seminars. Russian holidays are celebrated in fairytale folksy fashion with traditional costumes, music, dancing and much good old-fashioned merriment. On a more romantic note, one can also arrange a ride in the forest using one of their horse drawn carriages, or sleighs in winter and have a picnic around a fire with samovar, gluxvin and shashlik. A 22-room onsite hotel is soon to reopen in a recently renovated and extended building on the property. The complex was founded by an Englishman, John Kopiski, and his Russian wife Nina. The Kopiskis are devoted Orthodox Christians with a mission to promote a healthy lifestyle, so a visit to Bogdarnya is an entirely wholesome retreat that benefits both body and soul! QVladimir Oblast, Petushki, Krutovo Village 22B (121km from Moscow), tel. (+7) 903 961 58 80, www. bogdarnya.ru. Getting there: take a train from Kursky railway station to Petushki. From Petushki take a taxi to Bogdarnya.

The Bogdarnya “Vladimir Track” festival is a traditional village celebration with sleigh rides in winter and coach rides in summer. The festival is dedicated to Russia’s main road the Vladimir (or Siberian) Track. moscow.inyourpocket.com

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August - September 2014

Nightlife

Nightlife Moscow never sleeps. And it has everything going under those burning neon signs. Whether you are after an elite nightclub with a pyrotechnic show and a face control policy to shake fear into the hearts of grown adults, a dingy dive or a comfortable English style pub where you can hole up til the wee hours of the morning, you’ll not be disappointed.

Alternative and live music B2 Club One of Moscow’s biggest live music clubs, B2 offers live jazz, latino, rock and ska music and more. With five floors holding seven bars, a courtyard and a capacity of 2000 people it’s quite possible that you will hear every kind of music imaginable in just one night. Students and older locals alike flock to the place to hear some of Russia’s best and newest bands play at low prices. As well as rock concerts and football screenings, there’s karaoke, billiards, sushi, a cinema and a summer courtyard - a veritable one stop shop for a busy night out.QB-2, Bol. Sadovaya ul. 8/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 99 18, www. b2club.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. PEGW Cult Club This is one for the cool kids who are into their funk and deep soul music and can keep dancing to it until the sun rises. At first glance it seems like a small underground place, but there is in fact a whole other huge café/restaurant area hidden round the back which really fills up when a popular

DJ is playing - the place can get pretty sweaty and the aircon works marginally better back there. The music here hovers around the funk, jazz, reggae, ska genres and you can regularly catch local break-dancers having a battle here.QE-3, Yauzkaya ul. 5, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 917 57 06, www.cultmoscow.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. PENW KitaJski LEtchik DZHao Da Dzhao Da is a bizarre fusion of restaurant, bar and club, attracting a younger and older crowd in equally large numbers. With live music and drinks flowing, you’ll inevitably stumble across a drunk chat or even a Russian toast; it all adds to the atmosphere. Their salty snacks really hit the spot so don’t worry about that hunger craving after a few drinks, they have the perfect cure!QD-3, Lubyansky proezd 25, bldg.1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 56 11, msk.jao-da.ru. Open 11:00 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 08:00. PAEW Krisis Zhanra Krizis Zhanra is a longtime favorite in the centre that never ceases to get old - or popular! Known for its popular lunch specials, Krizis Zhanra is also an excellent selection for dinner, before it then turns into a nightclub (could be best described as a hipster disco) starting at about 22.00. This is where the “crisis of genre” comes in: this place changes its format multiple times throughout the day. It is absurdly affordable for its location. On the recent night that we went, we were luckily able to get a table and were treated to service and food that usually costs a whole lot more in a location like this. The soups, steaks and seafood dishes our table enjoyed were all of great value and the alcohol selection was fairly priced. When feeling unsure about what you want to enjoy this is a safe bet: just make sure to come early or book a table in advance.QE-2, Ul. Pokrovka 16/16, bldg.1, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 623 25 94, www.kriziszhanra.ru. Open 11:30 - 05:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 05:00. PENW Masterskaya Masterskaya is a hippy inhabited ex-banya that looks part Viennese coffee house and part bohemian artist’s studio. There’s live concerts most evenings and dancing later on, while during the day dreadlocked student types sit and ponder the eccentric bric-a-brac cluttering the tiled room from their seclusion of their laptops. On the ground floor you will also find their sister establishment Lady Jane which serves excellent international food early in the evenings and incredibly loud house music later on. To find it go down the alley between Neglinaya ul. and ul. Rozhdestvenka and head up to the first floor.QС-2, Teatralny proezd 3, bldg. 3, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 625 68 36, www.mstrsk.ru. Open 12:00 - 06:00. PAEW

Dva Mohito pazhalusta! – Two Mojitos please! 44 Moscow In Your Pocket

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Bars Bar Strelka The main headquarters of Moscow’s hipster parade, this bar attached to the Strelka Design Institute has become a bit more inclusive of regular folk in jeans and suits since it first opened but is still notorious for the entrance lineup where they suss out how hip your outfit is before letting you in. The music is usually a decent house/lounge/electro mix from popular DJs and the design is very aesthetically pleasing as well as comfortable. The small dance floor fills or completely empties depending on the weekend DJs. In the summer the delightful roof terrace with an incredible view is the place to see and be seen at any hour of the day or night and is a lovely place to relax with a drink and a plate of their delicious nibbles.QC-4, Red October Chocolate Factory, Bersenevskaya nab.14, bldg.5, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 771 74 16, www.barstrelka. com. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 03:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. PTALEGW Darling, I’ll call you later Half way between pub and bar this curiously named drinking den is a good place for those with a big crowd of friends who actually want to chat with each other. Music is background indie-rock stuff, bar snacks are plenty, there are a few TVs for those needing to keep up with the sport and plenty of large tables. Yet more encouraging is the chance to bring in board games or cards to play with your mates. By mixing a more upscale drinks menu with a downbeat interior and vibe it draws in both wealthier students and professionals alike.QB-1, 2-ya Tverskaya -Yamskaya ul.10, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 926 520 77 80, www.darlingbars.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PAEGW Kvartira 44 The main draw of this branch of the popular french style cafe/bar is the large atmospheric courtyard terrace, which is surrounded by the ruins of an old building, that in usual Russian style is slowly being rebuilt with cheap bricks. When out in the yard, service can get a bit slow, and there’s no piano, but despite that it’s still one of the nicest terraces in the area. Inside there is more of a warm and cosy glow, perfect for snuggling up in.QC-4, Ul. Mal.Yakimanka 24/8, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 499 238 82 34, www.kv44.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. PAEW MyBar This is not another ‘elitny’ hangout with generic Moscow cocktails and pounding music. My Bar’s philosophy is to create a welcoming venue for friendly people who are looking for a relaxed hangout and down-to-earth staff. MyBar is well and truly a dive bar; especially popular with expats and local office workers looking for a post-work drink and some fun, it offers a refreshingly laid-back alternative to Moscow’s glamour dominated nightlife scene. The music selection varies vastly, but is usually a good mix of golden oldies, with some great pop and rock classics to dance to at the weekwww.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

end. Thursdays are live music nights with free concerts from rock and blues bands. The happy hours, charismatic owner and relaxed opening hours (stay as long as you like!) have made it a hit with both locals and stars such as the Crazy Horse cabaret, and Wes Borland of Limp Bizkit fame with his band Black Light Burns.QC-2, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 3, bldg. 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 916 583 52 79, www.mybar.su. Open 18:00 until 06:00. PAEG The Hudson Bar This smart American bar brings some much needed attention to the after work drinks crowd of the big money White Square business centre. The expat owner has thankfully held back from hiking up the prices and trying to instill some elitism and instead has created a bar that’s great for those arriving alone to perch at the long bar or with a gang to colonise one of the booths - regardless of their budget and dress code. This ‘democratic’ approach spurs great results. A myriad of sports channels and happy hour deals are yet more bonuses, although unfortunately for inexplicable reasons the sports channels sadly don’t always work. QA-1, Ul. Butyrsky Val 10, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 212 04 54, www.hudsonbar.ru. Open 12:00 until last guest, Fri and Sat 12:00 - 06:00. PAEGW

To read about even more clubs and bars in St. Peterburg check out our website st-petersburg.inyourpocket.com August - September 2014

Nightlife

Nightlife Tiki-Bar In Maori mythology, Tiki was the first man, and in Moscow Tiki is the very first real Hawaiian themed bar. The inspiration for the hip interior, complete with palm trees, rotan furniture, masks and of course boats, has been taken directly from the popular Tiki bars, which originated in the Americas at the beginning of the 20th century. For those who want a true taste of Hawaii, there are over 100 choices of rum as well as an exotic choice of cocktails - definitely a tropical menu! Tiki is a good party place, especially for those who love to dance, hosting many Latin American themed parties along with masterclasses in Latin American, Brazilian and salsa dancing.QA-2, Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul. 3a, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 767 87 02, www.tiki-bar.ru. Open 24hrs. €€. PEGW

Clubs Club Garage One of Moscow’s longest-running clubs (open since 1998), Garage packs in the crowds for its legendary Wednesday / Sunday R’nB nights, and Friday / Saturday after parties. Open 24 hours with a full bar, restaurant and hookah menu, Garage has something going on at all hours. The crowd tends to be young and Russian, but the friendly atmosphere and relaxed “face control” makes it a fun night out for those who don’t want to deal with the attitude of Moscow’s glamour clubs. Summer terrace is open from the end of April until October.QС-4, Brodnikov per. 8, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 499 238 70 75, www.garageclub.ru. Open 24hrs. PAEW Club Roxbury In this newly-opened Moscow outpost of the mega-successful Los Angeles chain, you’ll be amazed by the luxury and scope, unlike any gentleman’s club in Europe! Guests sink into the comfortable sofas surrounded by the most beautiful girls in Moscow in this classy environment. International DJ’s, amazing costumes, arial acrobatics, and sensory overdrive.QUl. Butyrsky Val 5, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 532 79 52, www.clubroxbury.ru. Open 22:00 07:00. PAW Gogol Club From the stage under the circus tent out the front, the cosy Parisian style restaurant and the beer kiosk that wouldn’t be out of place at an outdoor festival of rock, Gogol is a great place for any amount of time, be it long or short, day or night. Bouncers keep everything sane and there are plenty of quiet nooks to escape to if things get too hectic near the dancefloor. The music is bohemian European stuff you probably won’t remember the next day but you’ll enjoy it while you’re here.QC-2, Stoleshnikov per. 11, bldg.1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 514 09 44, www.gogolclubs.ru. Open , Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PAEW 46 Moscow In Your Pocket

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Icon Club The extravagant and glamorous Icon club, opened in September 2013, can accommodate 2000 over its main dance floor, separate bar and dance floor, VIP areas and a roof terrace with superb views of Moscow at dawn. Though men will have to pay to enter, it is worth it for top DJs taking their lead from the most recent trends in Ibiza, Berlin and New York. QC-4, Bolotnaya nab. 9, MKropotkinskaya, (+7) 495 364 09 09, www.iconclub.ru. Open Fri and Sat 23:00 - 06:30. PAEGW Propaganda A cafe club with a backstage look, Propaganda has a chilled out vibe that is popular with everyone. Service is attentive and swift so for better or worse you’re never long without a tipple. The food is reasonably priced portionwise and the lounge-house sounds put everyone into their comfort zone. Of an evening, different djs sets kick in. Also one of the oldest clubs around in Moscow, they’ve already notched up 11 years and still invite foreign djs regularly and host gay evenings on Sunday nights.QD-2, Bol. Zlatoustinsky per. 7, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 57 32, www.propagandamoscow.com. Open 11:30 - 06:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 06:00. PENW

Cocktail Bars Dream Bar The name Dream Bar may create an image of a very chic, strictly face controlled cocktail bar, however the reality is close to a cosy, jolly pub, despite billing themselves as a cocktail bar, a pint seems to be an equally popular poison of choice. A popular hangout at the end of the day for the after-work crowd, the atmosphere is relaxed and the music ambient and mellow. However all this changes come the weekend, when the loud pumping dance music, indicates it’s time to take off the ties and let your hair down.QD-2, Myasnitskaya ul. 17, bldg.1, MChistye prudy, tel. (+7) 495 621 77 68, www.dreambar.ru. Open 24hrs. PAW Secret Bar Who would guess that a discreet door down an alley of one of Moscow’s fanciest shopping streets hides one of Moscow’s most popular cocktail bars? They would be even more surprised by the democratic door policy and cheap prices! These factors may help explain why Secret Bar (hence the name) is packed with a hip and fun-loving crowd on the weekends, and those looking to savour a well-crafted cocktail or hookah during the weeknights. On the busy nights it can take a while to get a drink, but the cocktails are worth the wait, and with these prices, you can order a few at a time!QC-2, Stoleshnikov per. 6, bldg. 3 (down alley behind Jean Jacques), MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 921 07 50, www.secretbar.ru. Open 18:00 - 06:00. PAEW

Tyomnoe – Dark Svetloe – Light (for beer) www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

August - September 2014

What to see

What to see NEXT TO RED SQUARE Alexandrovsky Gardens The gardens in front of the Kremlin walls are an excellent to take a stroll and get down to some serious people watching as well as admire the sheer scale and immense size of the Kremlin walls and towers. The biggest essential sight of the gardens is the tomb of the unknown soldier near to the entrance to Red Square. A high-kicking guard change ceremony takes place here every hour in front of the eternal flame.QC-2, Alexandrovsky sad, MAlexandrovsky Sad.

The Kremlin The street plan of central Moscow forms an impressively ordered pattern of concentric circles, clearly marking the city’s development outwards over the centuries. In the middle of this great Catherine wheel is the Kremlin, the fortified hill which formed the heart of the ancient city, and which to this day houses the political HQ of the planet’s largest nation. Within the world-famous red walls nestles a collection of buildings of various architectural styles, ranging from ancient Russian ecclesiastical, through Romanov imperial classicism, to 1960s Soviet modernism. While much is out of bounds to tourists, being part of the Government and Presidential estate, there are easily enough treasures open to the public to make the citadel an essential conquest. Unlike Napoleon, who stayed here after his forces took Moscow in 1812, you will need a ticket to enter. There are a number of ticket booths, the most important being located in Alexandrovsky Sad (on the west side of the Kremlin), which in itself is a great people watching place. Having bought your tickets, leave any large bags in the cloakroom located near the ticket office, under the gate. A ‘Kremlin Territory’ ticket gets you into the site itself, along with all of the cathedrals and the more ancient buildings. To visit the Kremlin Armoury (where all the sparkly diamonds, jewels and so on are stored) you must buy a separate - and considerably more expensive - ticket, which will have an entrance time on it. This ticket can only be purchased before you enter the Kremlin. Note that some buildings - in particular the Patriarch’s Palace - sometimes host special exhibitions, entrance for which you must pay extra. The tickets for special exhibitions can usually be bought at the entrance to the buildings in which they are held, although it is advisable to check before you enter the Kremlin. 48 Moscow In Your Pocket

Inside the Kremlin Cathedral of the Archangel Michael. A relative youngster on the Kremlin church scene, this cathedral was erected in 1505 and holds the tombs of Russian rulers from Ivan I to Tsar Ivan V. It also has more of an Italian renaissance feel to it with its Corinthian gables and turrets and white stonework. Annunciation Cathedral. This imposing cathedral, where Russia’s Tsars were christened and married, was built by Pskov architects in 1482. The frescoes inside are considered to be some of the most valuable in Moscow given that prominent artists of the time including Andrey Rublyev (also buried here), Theophanes the Greek and Prokhor of Gorodetz all worked on them. Church of the Deposition of the Robes. Taking its name from an ancient festival where the Virgin’s robes are transferred from Palestine to Constantinople (now Istanbul), this is a more modest cathedral nestled in a corner. Built in 1484 - 1485 by artists from Pskov, this church notably has stained glass windows. Along with some fine icons, inside you can also find wooden sculptures from the 15th century. Cathedral of the Assumption. The grandfather of all the Kremlin churches, the Assumption Cathedral is the oldest and the biggest. Built in 1475 by Italian architect Aristotle Fiorovanti, this is where Ivan the Terrible was crowned Emperor in 1547 before becoming a stable for Napoleon’s horses in 1812. Their soldiers made off with the chandeliers now hanging overhead, some weighing over 5 tonnes. The cossacks brought them back after they caught up with the light-fingered Frenchmen. In 1918 the last Easter service was held here. Services resumed in 1990. moscow.inyourpocket.com

Kremlin Armoury You need a separate ticket for the Armoury, the 19th Century museum purpose-built to house the nation’s gob-smacking collection of gold, silver, arms and imperial clothes and carriages. Highlights of the collection are the giant Orlov diamond and the infamous and rarely glimpsed Faberge eggs. To prevent overcrowding, Armoury tickets can only be used after the time printed on them. They do not give access to the rest of the Kremlin. QС-2, MAlexandrovsky Sad, tel. (+7) 495 697 03 49, www.kreml.ru. Open 10:00 - 17:00 Closed Thu. The Armoury Chamber has seances at 10.00, 12.00, 14.30, 16.30. Admission 200 - 700Rbl. Tickets can be purchased an hour before the seance at the Kremlin ticket office in Alexandrovsky sad. Lenin Mausoleum On display in various incarnations of his mausoleum since 1924, this is where the waxy, bald and embalmed body of the founder of the Communist Party is. Visiting here is a no-nonsense event with guards posted at each corner to prod you forward should you halt at any stage during the viewing. No bags. No cameras. They’ll search your pockets to make sure you don’t sneak anything. Leave bags in the storage lockers before going through the metal detectors, he may be dead but you can’t mess with him.QC-2, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 623 55 27, www.lenin.ru. Open 10:00 13:00. Closed Mon, Fri. Entrance is free. St. Basil’s Cathedral (Pokrovsky Sobor) Standing magnificent at the head of Red Square is St. Basil’s Cathedral. Russia’s most recognisable building was built in 1561 to celebrate Ivan the Terrible’s crucial defeat of the Khan of Kazan, a victory which secured Moscow’s position as the region’s dominant city. While the view from outside is spectacular and rightly famed, it is certainly also worth a visit inside. Visitors used to the vast open spaces of Western European cathedrals will be shocked to find a stone warren of small, intimate chapels, each decorated with countless icons and engravings and soaring in one direction only: upwards, to the height of the onion domes above. Russia’s history is all about a country being simultaneously tugged towards the west and the east. A visit inside St Basil’s gives an invaluable lesson on the importance and undoubted attractions of the latter.QC-2, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 698 33 04, www. saintbasil.ru. Open 11:00 - 16:00. Admission 250Rbl. www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

RIVER CRUISES Flotilla Radisson Royal Moscow A cruise along the Moscow-River is one of the best ways to see the city from its very centre, with unparalleled views of the sites on both banks. Casting off, we leave behind the Moscow International Business centre. Beside the pier is the Ukraina Hotel, the second tallest of Stalin’s ‘Seven Sisters’. Across the river is the ‘other White House’, the house of the Russian government. A few minutes’ sailing takes us to the Novodevichy Convent. Under its walls, Tolstoy’s Kitty and Levin of Anna Karenina met whilst skating, in reality, its cemetery houses the graves of Chekhov and Yeltsin and many others. Its pink and white baroque walls are faced by the thickening forest of the opposite bank, leading into Sparrow Hills park. The silhouette of a hammer and sickle peeks out above the treetops, a glimpse of the gargantuan structure of Moscow State University, the world’s tallest educational building and the ‘big sister’ of the seven. Passing Luzhniki Stadium, we reach the green banks of fashionable Gorky Park. At the diversion of the river into the Vodootvodny Canal stands the controversial statue to Peter the Great marking three hundred years of the Russian navy. Its creator, Georgian sculptor Zurab Tsereteli, also headed the reconstruction of the Church of Christ the Saviour opposite. Looking at its imposing domes, it’s hard to believe that this was once a gigantic outdoor pool. On Bolotny Island, towering over the rainbow-coloured arches and golden domes of the St Nicholas church, is the House on the Embankment, built to house the Soviet elite. From the river we’ve got perfect views of the Kremlin and the churches huddled inside it as we arrive at the heart of Moscow and perhaps Russia itself. Even after half a millennia St Basil’s idiosyncratic domes are still breathtaking; legend has it that its architects were blinded to stop them making something so beautiful ever again. QA-2, Taras Shevchenko nab., Hotel Ukraina pier, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 55 55, www.radissoncruise.ru. It is advisable to book tickets well in advance (tickets can also be bought online). Boats leave every day between 13:00 - 21:00. Boats are sometimes hired out for private parties so check the departure times in advance. Boats are sometimes hired out for private parties so check the departure times in advance. Tickets for adults 900Rbl, children 650Rbl, first class 2,000Rbl. AUKW

August - September 2014

What to see Churches and Monasteries Cathedral of Christ the Saviour This is what a new Russian Orthodox church ought to look like. It is so immense you’ll be wondering how many blocks of dynamite the Soviets needed to get rid of the thing the first time around. That was in 1931. This newly restored example came into being from 1994 until 2000 and is a shiny beacon for the Russian Orthodox Church at home and a close replica of the original 19th Century cathedral built in honour of the victory over Napoleon. The sprawling cathedral houses a museum on the history of the site where you can see pictures of the giant swimming pool the Soviets built here and the huge Lenin topped skyscraper they had originally planned for. During excursions (minimum 10 people) you can see the cathedral, museum and the view from the collonade. QB-3, Ul. Volkhonka 15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 28 47, www.xxc.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Mon 13:00 - 18:00. Admission free. Guided tours in English for groups for up to 10 people 6,000Rbl (prebooking required call (+7) 495 637 28 47). Novodevichy Monastery Monastery or convent, this place occupies a very specific place in Russian history. On the grounds surrounded by the Kremlinesque walls, which were built to act as a fortress, are four cathedrals including the majestic four-onion globes of Smolensky Cathedral which dates back to 1524. It was at Novodevichy that Peter the Great imprisoned his sister Sophia and executed her supporters from the Streltsy rebellion. Today it is a magnificent and peaceful cloister with an impressive icon collection. Be sure to look at the fascinating nearby cemetery too while you are here and take a stroll around the picturesque pond beyond the walls.QNovodevichy proezd 1, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 499 246 85 26. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Admission 250Rbl. Vysoko-Petrovsky Monastery Founded in the 1380s, in the same century as Moscow itself, this early medieval monastery was part of the original fortifications of the city. Today, the several churches inside have marvellous paintings and icons inside yet the exterior is really quite rundown. Today there is a friendly colony of cats, fed by the monastery faithful.QС-2, Ul. Petrovka 28/2, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 624 17 78, www.obitelpetrova.ru. Open 08:30 - 20:00. Admission free. 50 Moscow In Your Pocket

What to see Museums All-Russian Decorative Art Museum Hidden in a courtyard, this museum maintains more than 200 000 pieces of decorative and folk art from all over Russia. There are several beautifully decorated tea sets, plates and figurines - the porcelain from the post-revolutionary Soviet period is especially interesting. Also featured are some traditional Russian clothes, toys, intricate wood baskets, embroidery and linens. The wood figurine carvings are diverse and mind-blowingly detailed. The museum also displays interiors and antique furniture taken from the apartments of the old Russian nobility in the 18th to 20th centuries. Various workshops for children and excursions in English are also available. QC-1, Delegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609 01 46, www. vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue and last Mon of the month. Admission 20 - 200Rbl. Great Patriotic War Museum 1941-1945 Dedicated to the Great Patriotic War or World War II as it is known in the west, this museum opened in 1995 on the 50th anniversary of the Great Victory. The museum houses a set of evocative battle dioramas on the ground floor, with excellent explanations of the scenes in English. Immediately as you enter, you see the Commanders Hall and Grand Staircase leading up to the Hall of Glory, a solemn memorial space. Further along there is the exhibition hall with exhibits about the different battles and parties involved.QUl. Bratyev Fonchenko 10, MPark Pobedy, tel. (+7) 499 142 41 85, www. poklonnayagora.ru. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon, last Thu of the month. Admission 100Rbl. Institute of Russian Realist Art If you are a fan of realist art and haven’t yet exhausted your interest with a visit to the Tretyakov Gallery, then it is well worth making the trek down here to see Russia’s single largest private collection of realist art. Located in a former cotton print factory the massive collection spreads over four floors. There are great examples of the huge scale classic Soviet realism of Stalin’s time featuring works by masters of the genre such as Deneika and Serov, collections inspired by Cubism as well as new themes of despair, poverty and decay brought up by perestroika and the fall of communism. QNovospassky Dvor Business Centre, Derbenevskaya nab. 31, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 276 12 12, www. rusrealart.ru/en. Open 11:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 150Rbl, Family tickets 200 - 350Rbl. moscow.inyourpocket.com

The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts Opened to the public in 1912, this museum was primarily intended as an educational facility. Coming from the fashion of that time, it houses a lot of the world’s art in the form of plaster casts. It also has works by the Old Masters and representatives of various European schools of painting. In 1924 the museum saw the first addition of a picture gallery, to be followed in 1948 by the addition of many works from the 19th century. It’s a manageable museum, but be sure to know which section you are heading. Two buildings sit side by side - the first grandiose structure houses the old plastery cast bit, the impressionists are held in a separate wing for which there is a separate admission charge. The temperamental audio guides provide the only English available. Watch out for long queues at the weekends when locals pour in to admire the latest exhibitions.QC-3, Ul. Volkhonka 12, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 95 20, www.arts-museum.ru. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Thu 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300 - 400Rbl. Admission may vary according to the exhibition. Tretyakov Gallery For visitors anxious to uncover the mysteries of the famous ‘Russian soul’, the Tretyakov Gallery is the place to start. Founded in 1856 by influential merchant and collector Pavel Tretyakov and presented as a gift to the city in 1892, it is the world’s number one museum of Russian art. Ranging from exquisite and mysterious 12th century icons to the politically charged and prescient canvases of Russia’s favourite realist master, Ilya Repin, the collection is a rich and revealing insight into the history and attitudes of this long suffering yet inspired people. All pictures are labeled in English. Be sure to make use of the A3-size laminated information sheets found throughout the museum; there is always at least one English version hidden amongst the Russian ones. The gallery does not include the museum’s 20th Century collection, which is kept at a separate site a kilometre away.QC-4, Lavrushinsky per. 10, MTretyakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 13 62, www. tretyakovgallery.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu, Fri 10:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 360Rbl. English audio guide 250Rbl.

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Modern art centres Moscow Multimedia Art Museum This new contemporary space focuses exclusively on photography and video art and regularly hosts great exhibitions many of which make particularly good use of the cleverly designed video exhibition rooms. The central hallway and stairwell is one of a kind for Moscow with its clean white lines and staircases, vaguely reminiscent of New York’s Guggenheim or the MOMA. QB-4, Ul. Ostozhenka 16, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 11 00, www.mamm-mdf.ru/en. Open 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 300Rbl. Moscow Museum of Modern Art Based in three locations, this building is the main hub of the MMOMA and its great garden of witty sculptures by Tsereteli offers an impressive introduction to the contemporary Moscow art scene on the way in. The museum’s aim is to preserve Russia’s avant-garde tradition and they are constantly adding to their collection of Malevichs, Filonovs and the like. Moving closer to the present day the permanent collection also carries much non-conformist art from the late Soviet period, as well as new stars of the Russian art scene. QC-2, Ul. Petrovka 25, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 694 28 90, www.mmoma.ru. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed third Mon of the month. Admission from 150Rbl. Winzavod A hub of contemporary galleries and other artistic inspirations on an industrial factory lot that used to be a wine factory. There are over ten galleries with exhibitions varying from Russian photography to American and British works. There are also artists studios, an alternative clothes shop and an excellent cafe. The location and industrial surroundings gives the feeling of being on the movie studio back lot.Q4-y Siromyatnichesky per.1, bldg.6, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 917 46 46, www.winzavod.ru. Open 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. State Central Museum of Contemporary Russian History Start early in the day with this one. There’s a whole century of the most turbulent, convoluted, well documented history to be seen and absorbed. Housed in a 1780s mansion and former premises of the Moscow English Club, this grand dame was also the former Museum of Revolution. Now that history has moved on, so has the museum, covering all aspects of Russia’s recent history. English texts are sporadically situated in the rooms to make more of the experience. Don’t linger too much in the Revolutionary phase or you’ll be too tired by the time the Space Race starts, and Perestroika and the great music section dedicated to Russia’s answer to the Beatles.QB2, Tverskaya ul. 21, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699 67 24, www.sovr.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 21.00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 70 - 250Rbl. August - September 2014

What to see

Gorky Park In November 2011, when the last of the 100 rotting rollercoasters were demolished, alas Moscow finally cured itself of its Soviet hangover. What remained was 2,000 square kilometres of pure potential, and in a mere matter of months Gorky Park was transformed beyond belief. With the residue from an era bygone removed, space was created for something truly spectacular, but what was the final result? Well, the 20,000 visitors during the week and the staggering 100,000 at the weekend, suggest Gorky Park has quickly become Moscow’s hottest hangout. No exaggeration intended, to cover every possible activity in the park we would have to dedicate this entire magazine, so instead as always, we have tried to pick out the absolutely must-do’s, so that you can get the most out of your time at Gorky Park. Just to give you a geographical idea, the park runs parallel with Moscow river, encompassing the area Leninsky Gory. It is easily accessible by a number of different metro stations including Park Kultury, Oktyabryskaya, Leninsky Prospekt and Vorobyevy Gory. Ideally one would suggest entering from Park Kultury metro; from here you will find an impressive gate through which to enter, reminiscent of Berlin’s Brandenburg gate. Unfortunately the gate is currently undergoing restoration for the first time in its history, so it is not the sight it might be. This in mind the most convenient access is from Oktyabryskaya metro. After exiting the station turn left onto Ulitsa Krimsky Val and follow it for a few hundred metres; the park entrance will be on your left.

What to see

Leninsky Avenue. Set in a summer house with a spacious veranda makes it an ideal location to wish away a summer’s day. 2. If it’s something traditional you’re after, consider trying Pelman cafe, serving Russian boiled dumplings filled with meat, fish or various vegetables. You can watch before you as the dumplings are prepared by hand. Of course if you’re not quite ready to embrace this conventional Russian dish, you can find a compromise with the Japanese gyoza or Chinese dim sums here! 3. If you only have time for a quick bite keep your eyes peeled for Wokker. Cooking classic Chinese dishes in a matter of minutes, all from their sizzling woks, this is about as close as you’ll come to healthy fast food, all made with the freshest oriental ingredients. 4. If dining in a beautiful setting is your main concern, we’d recommend eating at Lebednoe Ozero, or Swan Lake. Cafe by day, bar and club by night, Lebednoe Ozero sits beautifully on the edge of a picturesque lake, serving Thai and European food. You’ll often find large parties here, running on early into the morning, and better still, they serve food right the way until 06.00! 5. If you’re really after the Russian experience, keep an eye out for one of the five stalls selling corn on the cob; this is one of the most popular Russian snacks. Another local ‘must-eat’ is ice cream - these snow white kiosks are near impossible to miss. Each sells 8 different flavours of icecream, all hoping to nostalgically bring you back to your childhood.

Food Spending a day in Gorky Park, in whatever manner, you are more than likely to work up an appetite! Passing endless mouth-wateringly good restaurants and cafes, and with 33 and still counting, the real problem you’ll face is which to choose! We’ve picked out our favourite food spots, depending on what you’re craving. Of course this is just the tip of the iceberg, so don’t be afraid to wonder into somewhere off the beaten track - you never know what gem you might stumble on to. 1. If it’s a caffein fix you’re yearning for, look no further than Le Pain Quotidien, or in Russian, Khleb Nasushchny. This cafe is conveniently located by the park entrance from 52 Moscow In Your Pocket

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Sport The fitness fanatics amongst you will find yourselves at home at Gorky Park. From racket sports to dance masterclasses, we cannot emphasise enough that there is truly something for everyone here. You can play recreationally with friends and family, or if you want to improve your game it’s possible hire a trainer. Again, we’ve tried to give you an insight into what is available, but the sheer range of possibilities is staggeringly impressive, leaving absolutely nothing to be desired. 1. If dancing is your thing, there is an eclectic variety of classes available, open to people of all ages and abilities. Running practically every day, you can try your hand at anything from Zumba to the tango, or hip hop to ballroom dancing! Both in specialist indoor venues and outdoor in the fresh summer air, this is a wonderful opportunity to meet people, improve your moves and keep fit after all that lovely food! 2. The joggers amongst you can find training sessions on weekdays at 20.00 and 12.00 on weekends, gathering from Punshkinskaya embankment. Of course if you wish to run on your own there are a number of beautiful paths designed for joggers with water fountains at regular intervals. Particularly for men who are missing that intense body workout, Workout 24 in Neskuchni gardens will let you push yourself to the limit! Lastly there’s also the Reebok Crossfit Dropbox, which runs free activities in its state of the art training system; each session is different ensuring that fitness never gets boring!

3. Of course, if conventional sports are more up your street, Gorky Park has everything from soccer pitches to tennis courts and anything in between. There’s also the pingpong club Moscow, which with 40 tables makes a stunning sight reminiscent of traditional Chinese Parks. Furthermore if you fancy some sand between your toes, head to the beach sports centre where any kind of beach court can be hired out. 4. They say you’re never too old to be young, but this sporting activity is still one we’re not daring enough to try. You must’ve already noticed the young Russian hipsters, jeans rolled up and cigarettes in hand, skateboarding freely (and inconveniently, we add) along footpaths. Well Gorky Park has a number of arenas for skateboarding, which if you’re not willing to risk trying makes a great spectator sport! www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Gorky Park also allows its visitors to rent a variety of services, largely related either to sport or modes of transport. The modes of transport are a fantastic idea if you intend on spending the whole day here - whilst they may appear to be nothing more than quirky novelties, they prove to be very pragmatic indeed. First and foremost, we’d recommend renting a bicycle. This will cost you 350Rbl for the first hour and 200Rbl per hour thereafter (plus a deposit also). If you’re feeling a little more adventurous definitely try out roller blading! These are 200Rbl for the first hour and 100Rbl per hour thereafter, but don’t forget to hire some protective gear too! Another fun activity would be hiring out a pedal boat, costing around 350Rbl plus a deposit, although we should warn you that there is almost always a long queue for this one! It’s highly recommendable to bring cash with you to Gorky Park as some of the activities may not be payable by card.

Parks and Gardens State Museum-Estate Arkhangelskoe The aristocratic estate to the north-west of the capital was home to the Yusupov family, and Prince Nikolai was one of the most enthusiastic collectors of French art. His legacy includes a collection of more than 100 works from the late 18th and early 19th centuries. Frequent trips to the salons of Paris saw him become the first man to introduce the works of Horace Vernet and Marguerite Gérard to Russian audiences. Those works form the centrepiece of the Arkhangelskoye show, which includes 50 prime cuts from Yusupov’s galleries. The exhibition runs until March 8, 2015.QGETTING THERE: From MTushinskaya, MRizhskaya, MDmitrovskaya. 5 km Ilinskoe Shosse, Krasnogorsky District. Tel. (+7) 498 653 86 60, www.arhangelskoe.su. Admission park 150Rbl, exhibition 150Rbl, with excursion 200Rbl. Exhibition open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Tue and last Wed of the month. Park always open. Tsaritsyno Commissioned by Catherine the Great as an out of town palace in 1775, Tsaritsyno is the poor cousin of the Moscow estates and palaces. Early construction didn’t meet with the Empress’s approval and by 1795, after dismissing the main architect, the complex was already lying in ruins. Over the ensuing years it became a fashionable country estate and a particular favourite place for locals to enjoy picnics amongst the ruins. Since the 1980s the estate has been undergoing renovations and the gothic style palace at its heart is now looking brighter and more elaborately decorated than at possibly any other time during its history. The huge gardens, meadows and woods surrounding the palace are a tranquil and nature-filled retreat.QDolskaya ul. 1, MOrekhovo, tel. (+7) 495 321 63 66, www.tsaritsyno-museum.ru. Park open 06:00 - 24:00. Museums 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun and holidays 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission park free. Museums 30 - 300Rbl. UK August - September 2014

What to see

KALuGA Kaluga is a great daytrip option from Moscow. A relatively old city for Russia, Kaluga offers much to space enthusiasts, but it also is wonderful city to take in old Orthodox architecture, quaint side streets and cool cafes. Kaluga was founded in 1371 as a buffer zone for Russia’s southwestern borders. Ivan the Terrible dropped in when Russian passed through on their way to fight the Tatars. During the War of 1812 Kaluga acted as a supply center for Russian forces arriving from the south. During his initial retreat from Moscow, Napoleon initially went towards Kaluga, but the French army was eventually forced to flee towards Smolensk along a route that had been devastated by invading troops upon their arrival. Over the years Kaluga acted as a nearby place of exile for prominent and troublesome political prisoners that the Tsars wanted to keep an eye on. Such honoured “guests” included the last Khan of Crimea, Khan Shahin Girai; the Kyrgyz sultan Arigazi-Abdul-Aziz; the last imam of the Caucasus, Imam Shamil; and the Georgian Princess Thecla. Kaluga’s most famous resident is undoubtedly Konstantin Tsiolkovsky (1857-1935). Today Tsiolkovksy is widely recognized as one of the preeminent thinkers in the fields of rocketry and astronautics, although for most of his life he lived in a log cabin and taught at a provincial school.

where to stay Hilton Garden Inn Kaluga This new hotel is situated just 10 minuted away from the historic downtown centre of Kaluga. Ideal for both business and social events there is a 24-hour business centre, holding up to 230 guests, and a restaurant/bar for up to 80 people. There are also 2 meeting rooms available to be used, along with a complimentary fitness centre with modern equipment. With a wide variety of rooms ranging from standard to suite, all rooms are equipped with internet access, a large ergonomic desk and a flatscreen TV, allowing you to relax but stay productive in the comfort of your own room. Kaluga hotel will soon be joining the Hilton group and is currently accepting bookings from the 1st of September 2014 and onwards.QUl. SaltykovaShchedrina 74/3, tel. (+7) 4842 500 700, www.hgi. com. 134 rooms (Room prices start at 2,500Rbl). 54 Moscow In Your Pocket

Where to stay SIGHTS Kaluga is a dedicated space town and most sights revolve around Tsiolkovsky and Yuri Gagarin (1934-1968), the first man in space. Everyone’s first stop should be to the Tsiolkovsky State Museum оf the History оf Cosmonautics, which opened in 1967, six years after Gagarin himself laid the first stone. The first hall is dedicated to Tsiolkovsky’s ideas and the second one offers an extension collection of space shuttle models. There is a planetarium and a park filled with rockets outside of the museum near the river. (ul. Akademika Koroleva 2, www.gmik.ru). Neaby is the Tsiolkovsky Memorial House where the great thinker had his residence for nearly three decades until his death in 1935 (ul. Tsiolkovskogo 79). There are many statues dedicated to space travel in Kaluga with the most prominent probably being the imposing one dedicated to Kaluga’s 600th anniversary located at the intersection of ul. Gagarina and the Oka River. It shows Gagarin peering down at earth below and is the main image featured on Kaluga souvenirs. The Kosmodamianovsky Church is worth a look as it’s a good example of old Kaluga architecture (Ul. Suvorova 177/16). Teatralnaya ul. is a pedestrian street that spreads out from the Drama Theater. A good place to find souvenirs, there are also many small cafes and restaurants on this street including Slastena, a good place for coffee, salads and sandwiches at Teatralnaya ul. 9. Just behind it in the same building is Tsiolkovsky loft space, which features a large “time café,” where customers pay for time, but receive free coffee, cookies and tea. They frequently host film screenings, language exchanges and seminars (www.loftt.ru). Two of the most popular bars in Kaluga are Pub Overtime (ul. Glagoleva 3, 3rd floor, www.facebook.com/ overtimepub.ru) and Bar Mazhor (ul. Kirova 50, www. barmajor.ru). Both bars often host live rock music concerts and serve pub food.

Whether you are visiting Moscow for a night or a month, you want to be able to stay in a hotel which enables you to get the most out of your visit. We have a selection of hotels ranging from luxury five star hotels to boutique mini-hotels filled with charm. You can find out where these hotels are located and what market they cater for. The traveller who is looking to stretch their budget will appreciate the centrally located hostels and dormitories just as much as the high flying business executive who is looking for a quiet place to unwind after a hectic day of negotiations and cultural programmes.

5 stars Ararat Park Hyatt QC-2, Ul. Neglinnaya 4, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 783 12 34, www.moscow.park.hyatt.com. 206 rooms (Room prices start at 14,000Rbl). Crowne Plaza Moscow WTC QKrasnopresnenskaya nab. 12, MVystavochnaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 22 22, www.cpmow.ru. 724 rooms (Room prices start at 8,000Rbl). Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya QE-1, Kalanchevskaya ul. 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com. 273 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl). Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow QD-3, Ul. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 20 00, www.kempinski.com/moscow. 230 rooms (Room prices start at 16,000Rbl).

Hotel National QC-3, Mokhovaya ul. 15/1, bldg.1, MOkhotnyy Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 258 70 00, www.national.ru. 201 rooms (Room prices start at 15,200Rbl). Lotte Hotel Moscow QA-3, Novinsky bul. 8, bldg. 2, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 745 10 00, www.lottehotel.ru. 300 rooms (Room prices start at 15,000Rbl). Marriott Moscow Grand Hotel QB-1, Tverskaya ul. 26/1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 00 00, www.marriottmoscowgrand.com. 386 rooms (Room prices start at 15,000Rbl). Metropol QC-2, Teatralny proezd 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 499 501 78 00, www.metropol-moscow.ru. 388 rooms (Room prices start at 10,000Rbl). Nikol’skaya Moscow QC-2, Nikolskaya ul. 12, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 967 77 76, www.hotelnikolskaya.com. 211 rooms (Prices start at 16,000Rbl). Radisson Royal Hotel QA-3, Kutuzovsky pr. 2/1, bldg. 1, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 221 55 55, www.radisson.ru/royalhotel-moscow. 497 rooms (Room prices start at 11,000Rbl). Sheraton Moscow Sheremetyevo Airport Hotel QMezhdunarodnoye shosse 28B, bldg. 5, MPlanernaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 00 10, www.sheratonmoscowairport. com. 225 rooms (Room prices start at 7,434Rbl).

Getting there The easiest way to get to Kaluga from Moscow is probably by an elektrichka train from Kiev train station with about 6-7 per day. Alternatively you could book a ticket on any long-distance train heading towards the Ukrainian capital. Depending on the schedule, the journey will take between two and three hours from Moscow.

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August - September 2014

Where to stay Ask the Concierge Andrey Korystov, Chief Concierge at the Metropol Hotel Please tell us something about yourself. My name is Andrey Korystov and I am 37 years old. I am the chief concierge at the Metropol Hotel in Moscow as well the Vice President of the Russian branch of Les Clefs d’Or [the international organization of professional hotel concierges]. I was born in Algiers to a family of diplomats. Soon after I moved back home to Moscow, to a city which I love. As a child I did not even know that being a concierge existed as a career so when I finished high school I entered the Russian State University for the Humanities to study economics. In my student years I began my career at the Baltschug Kempinski as a porter, then as a bellhop and in the end I was appointed as night concierge. I fell in love with the profession! You worked in China, how did you end up there and what did you do? Yes, life is full of surprises! I was very content working in the hotel but then life gave me an opportunity: I got invited to China to help out with opening a nightclub for foreigners. Back in those days I was very active in the nightlife scene so it seemed like the perfect opportunity for me. At first I thought I’d stay in China for only a year but then I got so into the whole process that I ended up staying for five long years. What are the main differences between China & Russia? At first the difference between the Russian and Chinese cultures really stands out but then you begin getting used to these differences, you begin to understand that everything depends on the individual and his/her personal qualities. In the end it doesn’t matter if the person is Russian or Chinese. Did you pick up some Chinese while you were there? I learned some basic conversational things. But, unfortunately, due to lack of practice I have forgotten almost everything I know. However, with Chinese guests I can talk about very simple guests. I would like my son to start learning Chinese in school, aside from English, because I think this language will be very useful in the future.

Where to stay Why did you end up coming back to Russia and the hotel sphere? You won’t believe me when I say this but during my time in China I kept remembering the hotel, the vibrant life there and the daily unusual moments. And somehow I was absolutely certain that one day I would be back. And this happened. Upon my return to Moscow, I went to work as a concierge at the Sheraton Hotel, where I spent a wonderful 3 years. Then I took part in the opening of the Barvikha Hotel but as Chief Concierge. Thanks to my experience, one of the oldest grand hotels and a testament to wonderful hospitality, culture and history - the Metropol - took me under its wing. Tell us something about the Metropol Moscow hotel. It is quite remarkable how even after many reconstructions of the building, the Metropol restaurant managed to keep its original look and interior. Now it looks exactly as it did many many years ago in 1905. All our guests marvel at its splendor! What is your task within Les Clefs d’Or? Was it difficult to get into this organization? I am the Vice President of the Russian branch of Les Clefs d’Or. It was difficult getting into this organization, I was very nervous. But I really put my mind to it and everything worked out! What hidden gem in Moscow can you recommend our readers? In Moscow I really love getting away from the hustle and bustle in some park but without leaving the city center. The best example of such a place is the Hermitage Garden. In the summertime visitors can sit under a tree in the shade and listen to jazz, in the winters they can go ice-skating. What are your plans for the future? My plans for the future are to have a second child! And of course pay more attention to my family. Because of my exciting profession I barely have any free time. Sometimes we forget all about our loved ones! And lastly: the movie “Grand Budapest Hotel” - have you seen it? If yes, how well does it represent the reality of your profession? It’s a brilliant movie! The character of Monsieur Gustave is very colorful and charismatic - this is exactly how a real concierge should be! And, of course, the chapter about the “Secret Society of Crossed Keys” very succinctly demonstrates that one concierge will do whatever he can to help out his colleague in any situation. There’s a reason our motto is “In service through Friendship”!

4 stars Adagio Moscow Paveletskaya QD-6, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. 94 rooms (Room prices start at 5,100Rbl). AZIMUT Moscow Olympic Hotel QOlimpiysky pr. 18/1, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495 931 90 00, www.azimuthotels.com. 486 rooms (Room prices start at 5,500Rbl). Best Western Vega Hotel & Convention Center QIzmailovskoe shosse 71, bldg. 3V, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 495 956 05 06, www.hotel-vega.ru. 1000 rooms (Room prices start at 3,600Rbl). Courtyard by Marriott Moscow City Center Hotel QB-2, Voznesensky per. 7, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 981 33 00, www.courtyardmoscow.com. 218 rooms (Room prices start at 8,000Rbl). Holiday Inn Suschevsky QUl. Suschevsky Val 74, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 225 82 82, www.holidayinn.com. 312 rooms (Room prices start at 4,500Rbl). Marco Polo Presnja QB-2, Spiridonovsky per. 9, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 660 06 06, www.presnja.ru/eng. 70 rooms (Room prices start at 14,500Rbl). Marriott Moscow Tverskaya QB-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 34, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 30 00, www.marriottmoscowtverskaya. com. 162 rooms (Room prices start at 11,500Rbl). Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya QD-6, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.mercure.com. 149 rooms (Room prices start at 3,391Rbl). Novotel Moscow City Hotel QPresnenskaya nab. 2, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 664 89 89, www.novotel-moscow-city.com. 360 rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl). Radisson Blu Belorusskaya Hotel QA-1, Ul. 3-ego Yamskogo Polya 26, bldg. A, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 660 49 00, www.radissonblu. com/belorusskayahotel-moscow. 264 rooms (Room prices start at 6,200Rbl).

3 stars Azimut Moscow Tulskaya Hotel QVarshavskoye shosse 9, MTulskaya, tel. (+7) 495 987 22 22, www.azimuthotels.com. (Room prices start at 4,700Rbl). Ibis Moscow Centre Bakhrushina QD-6, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. 190 rooms (Room prices start at 3,990Rbl). Ibis Paveletskaya QUl. Shchipok 22, bldg.1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 661 85 00, www.ibis.com/ru. 147 rooms (Room prices start at 3,900Rbl).

56 Moscow In Your Pocket

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August - September 2014

Shopping

Shopping SPASEEBO At work, in the car, at home, on holiday, in the club, behind the wheel, in front of the computer - what is the one accessory that is a must for all these activities and occasions? Why, sunglasses of course! And where do we get them? Why, Spaseebo of course! Here you can choose from the largest range of shades: Russian wooden shades Woodsun, Woodwedo, Woodeez, as well as rare European brands like Alain Mikli, Triwa, Thierry Mugler, Oscar Magnuson and the classical Ray Bans and Vannis. Oh and lets not forget about the snazzy Matsudas from Japan. You can order them all online. Spaseebo’s show room is centrally located near Chistye Prudy metro station and is open from 10:00 until 20:00. Visa and Mastercard accepted.QD-2, Krivokolenny per. 12, bldg. 2, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 499 372 02 17, www.spaseebo.ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00. A

RAKETA WATCHES Raketa is not only the oldest factory in Russia, but also the only watch factory in the whole country. Additionally, it is one of the only watch factories in the world, the only others being Rolex and Swatch, that manufactures its own movements; including the hair spring and escapement. It was founded as a stone carving factory in 1721 by Peter the Great, producing items for the Russian royal family. After the outbreak of the Great Patriotic War of 1812, what had become the Petrodvorets watch factory was reorganised to supply the Russian army with equipment. The factory also provided the stones of Lenin’s Mausoleum, and the famous red stars which you can see on top of the Kremlin’s towers. The factory began producing watches in 1949 under the name Zvezda (star) and Pobeda (victory). In 1961, Yuri Gagarin made the first flight in history into outer space; the factory renamed the brand Raketa (rocket) to commemorate this. www.raketa.com. Podium Concept Stor QC-2,Ul.Kuznetsky most. 14, MKuznetsky most, tel. (+7) 495 926 15 35, www.podiumfashion.com. Open 12:00 – 23:00. TSUM Q4th Floor, C-2, Ul. Petrovka 2, MTeatralnaya, (+7) 495 933 73 00, www.tsum.ru. Open 10:00 – 22:00, Sun 11:00 – 22:00. Tsvetnoy Central Market Q4th Floor , C-1, Tsvetnoy bul. 15, MTsvetnoy bulvar, (+7) 495 737 77 73, www.tsvetnoy.com. Open 10:00 – 22:00, Sun 11:00 – 22:00. 58 Moscow In Your Pocket

Gifts and Souvenirs Art Lebedev You won’t find your usual Russian Matryoshka dolls here but rather new-age, byte-inspired ones. This small nook, situated just off Tverskaya ul., is full of trendy design gifts with a hint of the traditional thrown into the mix. QC-2, Galereya, Tverskaya ul. 9, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 772 96 84, www.store.artlebedev.ru/offline/psm/. Open 12:00 - 21:00. AW Dulyovsky farfor The shop of this porcelain factory has some really nice crockery in unique designs, tons of different great tea sets designs ranging from more conservative and traditional to 1960s inspired pieces and then a load of just downright wacky looking stuff. QShcherbakovskaya ul. 57/20, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 499 166 76 43, www.dulevo. ru. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. A Gallery Mikhailov For lovers of ancient fine Russian jewellery made with the tastes of Russia’s lavish old Orthodoxy in mind a visit to this shop is well worth the time. As well as intricate jewellery, Mikhailov also produces elaborate candlestick holders, decorative items and baroque Easter eggs in the finest traditions of Orthodox art.QС-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 16, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495 692 44 12, www. vmikhailov.ru. Open 11:00 - 21:00. A Prosto Tak They say their shop doesn’t sell only gifts, but by the look of things on offer, there seems not much else to do with these funny Soviet inspired ashtrays, passport covers and toilet roll holders than give them away to someone. They also have an interesting selection of T-shirts, badges and bags. QD-3, Ul. Zabelina 3/7, MKitay Gorod, tel. +7 499 755 75 29, www.vot-tak.com. Open 11:00 - 21:00. A Russian gifts This huge arts and crafts shopping centre has everything you could think of from traditional matryoshkas, khokhloma and samovars to beautiful rustic table cloths, exquisite jewellery from across Russia, ceramics and more. QUl. Zorge 9A bldg. 2, MPolezhaevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 984 71 54, www.russiangifts.ru. Open 09:30 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. ALK Shaltai - Boltay The name means Humpty Dumpty, but don’t let the quaint fairy tale title fool you. Located in the Novinsky Passazh, the shop features all manner of designer and handmade goodies for the modern sophisticate or contemporary rebel, including jewellery, clothing, magnets and more for just a bit of avant-garde flair in the home or on the body. QA-2, Novinsky bul. 31 (in shopping center Novinsky Passazh), MBarrikadnaya, tel. +7 (495) 768 78 50, www.shaltai-boltai.ru. Open 10:00 22:00. AL moscow.inyourpocket.com

Art salon on starosadsky

This small gift shop is a veritable Aladdin’s cave of semi-precious stones, minerals and amber handcrafted into unique jewellery, ornaments and decorative items by talented local craftsmen. If you are looking to take away an unique little piece of Russia, rather than another item from the usual tourist conveyor belt then look no further than these cabinets filled with items made from gleaming Russian malachite, agate, jasper, the purest Baltic amber and other lustrous precious stones. For something even more exotic they’re also selling fragments of the Sikhote-Alin meteorite that fell in Far Eastern Russia in 1947 and of the one that made the headlines in February 2013 in Chelyabinsk. In addition there’s a large selection of paintings to be found, hand-painted lacquer boxes, pottery, traditional scarves, Russian dolls and some exclusive majolica crafts created by two famous Russian artists Natalya Pavlova and Evgeny Shepelev. QD-3, Starosadsky per. 10, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 15 83, www.art-gemstones.ru. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.

Russian souvenirs Russia is full of beautiful souvenirs – and we are not just talking about Russian dolls and Lenin badges. If you are looking to take some extra special gifts home with you we recommend you consider buying some of the following: Platok A perfect present for any female friend or relative. These beautifully designed and colourful scarves can either spruce up the outfit of a young lady by being worn around the neck or serve to make your grandma look even cuter than usual by being worn around the head. Orenburgsky platok is another highly desirable type of scarf made from the down hair of goats. The real hand spun ones are very warm and yet also so delicate and silk-like that the whole scarf can be pulled through a woman’s wedding ring. Birch wood crafts The silver birch is the national tree of Russia, the further in to the countryside you get, the more you notice that the world’s largest country is covered in them. It then comes as no surprise that Russians have been experts at producing items carved out of the bark of their favourite tree. Birch wood combs are particularly popular as they are said to be very good for your hair. Khokhloma This traditional red, black and gold Russian design generally painted onto wooden household items dates back to the 18th Century. If you haven’t much space in your luggage pick up a spoon and sugar pot, or if you have space for more you can find almost anything with khokhloma on from tea trays to kitchen tables. Bosco sport (the company who dress the Russian Olympic team) also do a nice line in khokhloma inspired clothing.

Markets Danilovsky QUl. Mytnaya 74, tel. (+7) 958 17 25, www.danrinok.ru. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Dorogomilovsky QUl. Mozhaisky Val 10, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 499 249 55 53, www.tkdor.ru. Open 07:00 - 22:00. N Leningradsky Rynok QUl. Chasovaya 11, MAeroport, tel. (+7) 495 151 78 71. Open 07:00 - 20:00, Mon 07:00 - 18:00. N Vernisazh in Izmailovo QIzmailovskoye schosse 73zh, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7) 499 166 55 80, www.moscow-vernisage.com. Open 09:00 - 18:00.

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Vodka and Caviar They compliment each other as perfectly as beer and crisps or strawberries and cream. The better vodka brands come out under the Russky standart label although ladoga and berozka are also good. For something more kitsch look out for Kalashnikov or matrioshka vodka. Black beluga caviar is still one of the most expensive foods on the planet and a small jar can set you back more than $100 if you buy it in the market. Never buy caviar from street touts, more often than not it is fake and/or illegal. August - September 2014

Shopping DON GIULIO Salumeria Formaggeria Prodotti Italiani a Mosca This unusual little shop marks out its own Italian territory in the unfamiliar Moscow surroundings. The combination of the most traditional Moscow architecture in the centre of the city and the powerfully beating Italian heart inside makes this little shop a truly inimitable environment. A wide array of Italy’s finest authentic foodstuffs is on offer here, and the chef, Roberto Bruno, will be there to point you in the right direction of whatever taste of Italy you might desire. The owner himself, Giulio Zompi, will be happy to use his expertise of selling Italian wines to advise you on what to drink with your fresh assortment of Italian goods.QE-2, Ul. Pokrovka 27, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 926 666 33 70. Open 10:00 - 21:00.

Bookshops Bookhunter QD-4, Ul. Bol. Tatarskaya 7, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 786 25 69, www.bookhunter.ru. Open 09:00 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. A Bookshop Moskva (Tverskaya) QC-2, Ul. Tverskaya 8 bldg. 1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 64 83, www.moscowbooks.ru. Open 10:00 - 01:00. Business-Centre Bookbridge QD-4, Ul. Bol. Tatarskaya 7, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 786 25 70, www.bookbridge.ru. Open 09:21:00. Dom Inostrannoy Knigi (House of Foreign Books) QС-2, Kuznetsky Most 18/7, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7) 495 628 20 21, www.mdk-arbat.ru. Open 09:00 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A Molodaya Gvardia QС-4, Ul. Bol. Polyanka 28, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 780 33 70, www.bookmg.ru. Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 20:00. Respublika QA-1, Ul. 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya 10, MMayakovskaya, tel. +7 (495) 251 65 27, www.respublica.ru. Open 24hrs. AKW Torgovy Dom Biblio - Globus QD-2, Ul. Myasnitskaya 6/3, bldg. 1, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 781 19 00, www.biblio-globus.ru. Open 09:00 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. AW 60 Moscow In Your Pocket

Business directory Shopping Centres Evropeysky Shopping Centre QА-4, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala 2, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 921 34 44, www.europe-tc.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. AK GUM QС-3, Red Square, MPl. Revolutsy, tel. +7 495 788 43 43, www.gum.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK Metropolis shopping center QLeningradskoye shosse 16A bldg.4, MVoykovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 660 88 88, www.metropolis-center.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW Okhotny Ryad QС-3, Manezhnaya pl.1/2, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 737 84 49, www.ox-r.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AULKW Tsvetnoy Central Market QC-1, Tsvetnoy bul. 15, bldg. 1, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 737 77 73, www.tsvetnoy.com. Open 10:00 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. AKW

Supermarkets Azbuka Vkusa Qwww.azbukavkusa.ru. Bakhetle QА-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya, 21, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 781 73 80, www.bahetle.com. Open 24hrs. A Globus Gourmet QD-2, Ul. Pokrovka 2/1 bldg. 1, MKitay-gorod, tel. (+7) 495 662 66 03, www.globusgurme.ru. Open 24 hrs. PA Gum Gastronom №1 QC-3, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 788 43 43, www.gum.ru/shop/410. Open 24hrs. ALK Hediard QC-2, Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 23 bldg. 1, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 692 81 66, www.hediard.ru. Open 08:00 - 23:00. Indian Spices QUl. Miklukho-Maklaya 5, MUgo-Zapadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 434 66 29, www.indianspices.ru. Open 09:00 - 21:00. PN Sedmoy (7th) Continent QD-2, Ul. Bol. Lubyanka 12/1, MKuznetsky Most, tel. +(7) 495 411 60 85, www.7cont.ru. Open 24hrs. A Yeliseevsky QС-2, Ul. Tverskaya 14, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650 46 43, www.eliseevskiy.ru. Open 24hrs. Open 24hrs. A

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Accountants and Consultants Awara QB-2, Bol. Sadovaya ul. 10, off. 12, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 225 30 38, www.awaragroup.com. Bauke van der Meer Tax & Legal Services QC-5, Ul. Bol. Yakimanka 31/18, off. 203b, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 935 76 21, www.bvdmeer.nl. Deloitte QA-1, Lesnaya ul. 5b, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 787 06 00, www.deloitte.com. Ernst and Young QD-4, Sadovnicheskaya nab. 77, bldg. 1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 705 97 00, www.ey.com. KPMG QPresnenskaya nab. 10, complex Bashnya na naberejnoy, block C, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 44 77, www.kpmg.ru. LowLands QD-3, Khokhlovksy per. 13/1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 625 03 07, www.lowlands.ru. Mega-Intel Q1-y Shchipkovsky per. 4, MSerpukhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 737 00 22, www.mega-intell.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri 10:00 - 17:00. PricewaterhouseCoopers QA-1, Business Centre Belaya Ploschad, ul. Butyrsky val. 10, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 967 60 00, www.pwc.ru.

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SHR Consulting QE-4, Ul. Lva Tolstogo 23/7 bldg. 3, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 748 55 50, www.senatorcompany.com. The Lighthouse Group QMytnaya ul. 3, entr. 2, office 41, MOktyabrskaya, tel. (+7) 495 980 09 79, thelighthousegroup.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.

Business associations Association of European Businesses QB-1, Krasnoproletarskaya ul. 16, bldg. 3, entry 8, MNovoslobodskaya, tel. (+7) 495 234 27 64, info@ aebrus.ru, www.aebrus.ru. Finnish-Russian Chamber of Commerce QE-3, Pokrovsky bul. 4/17, bldg. 4b, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 917 90 37, www.svkk.ru. Hospitality Ideas and Trends Club QD/E-2, Ul. Pokrovka 9, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495 623 59 46, hit@club-hit.ru, www.club-hit.ru. Russian-German Chamber of Commerce QC-3, 1-y Kazachy per. 7, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 234 49 50, www.vdw.ru. The American Chamber of Commerce QB-1, Dolgorukovskaya ul. 7, 14th floor, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 21 41, www.amcham.ru. The Russo-British Chamber of Commerce QС-2, Tverskaya ul. 16, bldg.1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 21 60, www.rbcc.com.

August - September 2014

Business directory Should I stay or should I go? When you have spent some time in Russia, there is a good chance that you like it so much that you want to stay. For those who take the trouble of learning some Russian and build relationships here, Russia can be a very rewarding country and you may wonder how to spend more time here. Business visa typically allow you to spend only 90 days within half a year in Russia. A work visa allows you to live in Russia. If you have an employer who is ready to pay you at least 2 million roubles per year, you get a Highly Qualified Specialist work visa for three years at once within approximately a month, only an AIDS-test is required, personal income tax is paid at 13% and you only need to register if you spend more than 90 days in Russia without interruption. But do not expect a red carpet treatment: anti-abuse checks may cause delays. A regular work visa comes in two categories: without a quota or with a quota. Work permits without the need to acquire work permit quota in advance are only available for specific management positions. The procedure takes at least 3 months and involves providing legalized copies of diploma’s and extensive medical tests. Once the work visa, which is valid for one year only, has been issued, you need to get registered upon every arrival within 7 days.

Exhibition and conference centres All Russian Exhibition Centre (VVTs) QProspekt Mira 119, VVTs, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 544 34 00, www.vvcentre.ru. Central exhibition hall Manezh QC-3, Manezh, Manezhnaya pl. 1, MBiblioteka im. Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 645 92 77, www.russianmuseums. info/M419. Crocus Expo (International Exhibition Centre) Q65-66 km Moscow Ring Road (MKAD), MMyakinino, tel. (+7) 495 727 26 26, www.crocus-expo.ru. Expocentre QKrasnopresnenskaya nab.14, MVystavochnaya, tel. (+7) 499 795 37 99, www.expocentr.ru. Open 10:00 18:00. Gostiny Dvor QD-3, Ul. Ilyinka 4, MPloshchad Revolutsy, tel. (+7) 495 698 12 02, www.mosgd.ru/en. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Sokolniki Culture & Exhibition Centre (KVTS Sokolniki) Q5-y Luchevoy prosek 7, bldg. 1, MSokolniki, tel. (+7) 495 995 05 95, www.exposokol.ru. Open 9:00 - 18:00. World Trade Centre Moscow (WTC) QKrasnopresnenskaya nab. 12, MVystavochnaya, tel. (+7) 495 258 12 12, www.wtcmoscow.ru. 62 Moscow In Your Pocket

Expat & Lifestyle Finally, if you want to get hired for a non-management position with a salary less than 2 million roubles per year, your employer should have applied for a work permit quota before 1 May of the preceding year. Simply forget about this option. If you are or get married to a Russian citizen, you can apply for a residence permit. The procedure takes at least one and a half year and expect a lot of queue sitting (or standing). But you get the right to stay in Russia for five years and the freedom to take any job you want. Both with a work or residence permit, you are a foreigner and one violation of the registration rules or two simple administrative violations (parking tickets!) can result in a visa denial or even in deportation. Every year more than half a million foreigners get deported from Russia for violations of various kinds. There are a few simple rules nevertheless which should keep you out of trouble: religiously comply with your registration obligations, get a driver and, of course, no politics please. If you manage to get Russian citizenship, you are no longer considered a foreigner under Russian law. Nevertheless, dual citizens are a new category in Russia for whom quite harsh registration rules have been cooked up recently. So there is no straightforward best solution: welcome to Russia. Written in collaboration with BVDM Tax and Legal Services. For legal advice visit their website www. bvdmlaw.nl or call (+7) 495 935 76 21.

Lawyers and notaries TIM Services & TIM Advisers QShluzovaya nab. 8, bldg. 1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 989 18 17, www.timservices.ru.

Real Estate Eurohome Relocation Services BV QLogistic centre Zarechie, Odintsovskiy district, ul. Torgovaya 2, tel. (+ 7) 495 502 95 23, www.eurohomerelocation.com. Evans QВ-2, Maly Palashevsky per. 6, bldg.1, floor 4, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 232 67 03, www.evans.ru. Four Squares QD-2, Milyutinsky per. 18a, of. 37, MTurgenevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 55 72, www.foursquares.com.

Recruitment Antal Russia QB-2, Tryokhprudny per. 9, bldg. 1B, off. 104, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 935 86 06, www.antalrussia.com. G-Nius Russia - Recruitment & Executive search QE-3, Khokhlovsky per. 13/1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 665 71 10, www.g-nius.ru. moscow.inyourpocket.com

Cultural & Educational Centres The foreign cultural and educational centres in Moscow are organising many activities for Russians and foreigners. Just check their websites for upcoming events. The epicentre is the VGBIL building in the city centre, near Taganskaya metro, the Library for Foreign Literature. Most of the international centres are located there. British Council QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 287 18 00, www.britishcouncil.org/russia. Open 13:00 - 14:00, 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Canadian Centre QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 2nd floor, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 37 52, www.studycanada.ca/russia. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Goethe Institute/DAAD QLeninsky pr. 95a, MProspekt Vernadskogo, tel. (+7) 495 936 24 57, www.goethe.de/ins/ru/mos/uun/oef/ deindex.htm. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Fri 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Institut Français QЕ-3, Ul. Vorontsovo Pole 16 bldg. 1, MChkalovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 916 37 78, www.institutfrancais.ru/fr/ russie. Open 09:30 - 20:00, Sat 09:30 - 17:00. Neso Russia QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 3rd floor, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 915 05 25, www.nesorussia.org. Open 14:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. The American Center in Moscow QЕ-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 495 926 45 54, www.amc.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:45, Sat 11:00 - 17:45. Closed Sun.

Moscow is one of the most popular and rewarding expat destinations. If you would like your expat group to be featured here, just drop us a line at research.mos@inyourpocket.com www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Expat Contacts AIESEC Qwww.aiesec-moscow.org. American Women’s Organisation Qwww.awomoscow.org. Australian and New Zealand Social Group (AUSKI) Qwww.gdaymoscow.com. British Women’s Club Qwww.bwcmoscow.org.uk. English Language Evenings (ELE) Qwww.ELEMoscow.net.

russian for expats Lapsha – Лапша In Russian it means ‘noodles’, and you can easily find this word on the menu of a restaurant. Then it’s up to you to see if you feel like trying the ‘Russian spaghetti’ or not. But if a Russian woman (or man!) tells you: “что ты мне лапшу на уши вешаешь?!” (literally, ‘stop hanging spaghetti on my ears!’), then it’s a whole different story. It means that you have overstepped your courting abilities, and that your date is reproaching you for fooling him/her with untruthful and exaggerated compliments. The origin of this expression is much disputed. An interesting explanation calls into question the Italians, who are as famous for their delicious spaghetti, as well as for their reputation of impenitent Don Juans. Liden & Denz

QA-1, Gruzinsky per. 3 bldg. 1, entr. 6, off. 181, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 499 254 49 91, www. lidenz.ru. Open 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sat, Sun. August - September 2014

Expat & Lifestyle The Expat Experience My name is Giulio Zompi. Forty-four years ago, my parents decided to call their second son Giulio, probably in Honor of the great Roman Emperor “Giulio Cesar”. They probably did not know, at that time, that in future, I would even do my personal Russian campaign, but unlike Mr. Cesar, I would establish my life in Russia. I have a young 50-50 (Italian-Russian) family and after 12 years in Russia, I can be proud of good spoken Russian and a good social position. My mission is to try my best to diffuse the Italian food and wine culture and create a small Italian corner in Moscow where my son Francesco could grow up in a real Italian atmosphere. My Italian shops named “Don Giulio” are the first Italian Salumeria and Formaggeria in Moscow where you can taste and buy the best cheeses, sliced meet, Italian gastronomy and selected wines in town, and at the same time, I represent some Italian wineries for all the CIS. Slowly the wine culture is diffusing in Russia. The consumption of wine was very poor until few years ago, because wine has been considered an exclusive drink. During the last few years, the population moved away from drinking the cheapest budget wines towards becoming more interested in better quality wines. At the same time, many people travel to Italy for wine tasting experience and, when they come back to Russia, they look for some wine they have tried before. I see big potential for the Russian market and believe that Russians will be more and more experienced in wine over the coming years and the market will move for the most part in the direction of quality wines. I do not have a preferred place in Moscow, because it is so big and varied that every day could give you new exciting emotions! Unfortunately I don’t have so much time to enjoy the city but … Living in Moscow is a unique experience: a multiethnic mega polis with many opportunities for life, business and free time. Architecture, atmosphere, people – a lot of different people and cultures. And of course everybody loves Italy.

Expat & Lifestyle Expat Football League Qwww.moscowfootball.com. EXPATinRUSSIA Qwww.expatinrussia.com. International Women’s Club Qwww.iwcmoscow.ru. InterNations Qwww.internations.org. Moscou Accueil (French Women’s Club) Qwww.site-moskva-accueil.org. Moscow Hash House Harriers Qwww.moscowh3.com. Moscow International Choir Qwww.moscow-international-choir.com. MosKultInfo (German-Language Community Newsletter) Qwww.moskultinfo.wordpress.com. Nederlandse Club Moskou (De Tulpen) Qwww.nlclubmoskou.nl/tulpen#!tulpen/cpub. Rotary Club Moscow International Qwww.rcmi.ru. SWEA (Swedish Women’s Educational Association) Qwww.swea.org/moskva.

International Schools Atlantic International School QFestivalnaya ul. 7a, MRechnoy Vokzal, tel. (+7) 499 745 62 61, www.atlanticschool.ru. Atlantic International School, Skolkovo QSkolkovo Park, MSlavyansky bulvar, tel. (+7) 968 651 72 82, www.atlanticschool.ru. British International School QBol. Akademicheskaya ul. 24 B, MVoykovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 987 44 86, www.bismoscow.com. Little Angels QNovocheremushkinskaya ul. 49, office 12, MProfsoyuznaya, tel. (+7) 495 332 16 03, www.littleangels.ru. Montessori School QStarovolynskaya ul. 12/3, MSlavyansky Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 721 50 04, www.mosmontessori.ru. A P’tit Cref QB-3, Bol. Afanasyevsky per. 41, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 20 06, www.ptitcref.com. The Anglo-American School of Moscow QBeregovaya ul. 1, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 231 44 88, www.aas.ru. The International School of Moscow QKrylatskaya ul. 12, bldg. 5, MKrylatskoe, tel. (+7) 499 922 44 00, www.internationalschool.ru.

The International Women’s Club of Moscow’s opening of the new season - the September General Meeting: Summer’s in full swing and with the month of August the big break is already nearing its end! For the IWC and their long-established, as well as potential new members, this means that a new season’s just around the corner waiting to start with many wonderful events. It’ll be officially opened by the September General Meeting which takes place on Thursday, September 18th from 10am until noon at the Czech Embassy. Besides some other highlights you’ll have the chance to be first to subscribe to their fabulous Interest Groups for the upcoming season. So make sure not to miss this opportunity and check their website www.iwcmoscow.ru or Facebook page www.facebook.com/IWCMoscow for more detailed information!

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InterNations is the biggest global networking site for expats of various nationalities and their family members with almost 200,000 members in 235 cities worldwide. By becoming a member you gain access to the online social network were you can connect with other expats, browse the various forums, leave tips for other expats and interact with people who may have the same interests. www.internations.org.

The English International School English day school for kids aged 3 all the way up to 18. They follow the English curriculum and offer IGCSEs and A-levels and preparation for studying in the UK. The main focus of the school is on languages, art, music, IT and sport. The school works hard towards organising engaging after-school activities too like drama clubs and school trips. There is also a second primary school (ages 3-12) located in west Moscow at Molodogvardeyskaya ul. 9, metro Kuntsevskaya and a third school (ages 3-11) located at ul. Lobachevskogo 14, metro Pr. Vernadskogo.QZeleny pr. 66a, MNovogireevo, tel. (+7) 495 301 21 04, www.englishedmoscow.com.

The English International School Moscow In September 2014 English International School opens its new and third campus EIS Moscow South-West at ulitsa Lobachevskogo, 14 (m. Pr.Vernadskogo). The school for children aged 3 to 11 will provide the same high quality British style education as our campuses, EIS Moscow West and EIS Moscow East. •The school is staffed by a highly qualified native English speaking team of teachers •Small classes: a personal approach for every pupil •Additional language support for those new to an English international school. •Top quality kindergarten •A truly international school with a friendly atmosphere •British owned, British managed and British staffed S: PRES pus STOcPow West cam s 7 clas os EIS M ening Year 014! p 2 o r is tembe in Sep ply now!

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internations

internationAL Women‘s club

+ 7 495 726 31 46 www.englishedmoscow.com

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August - September 2014

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Expat & Lifestyle russian Superstitions

Contrary to how it may first appear, Russians are generally much more emotional than Westerners, and sometimes make decisions that on the surface can appear quite irrational. Superstitions are a good example of this, and even fully grown men will adhere to most Russian superstitions – foreigners will be forgiven for any faux pas but it’s always useful to be aware some of the better known ones: - Russians believe that it’s bad luck to shake hands, kiss, or in fact pass anything through the threshold of a door. - If you leave home (or any building) and realize that you have forgotten something, it’s considered bad luck to return to fetch it. However, this can be atoned by looking in the mirror on the way out! - Empty bottles should be placed on the floor, not left on the table (in practice this tends to happen in the home as one would expect the waiter in a restaurant to clear the empties – although where the service is slow, you may see Russian guests doing this automatically). - Celebrating Birthdays – or in fact any holiday or anniversary in advance is considered bad luck. If someone’s Birthday falls on the weekend, colleagues at work would celebrate it on a Monday, definitely NOT on the Friday before! - If you step on someone’s foot by accident, you should let them step on your foot in return to avoid any future arguments - If someone sneezes whilst someone is telling you something, it is definitely true. - Whistling inside any building deprives you of money! - If a black cat crosses your path, this is in fact considered extremely unlucky! - If your nose itches then you will end up going out drinking heavily, but if your hand itches, you will come into money (if it’s your right hand, but will lend money if it’s your left)! - Sitting at the corner of the table means that you won’t get married (although this only applies to women, apparently)! - If you spill salt, you will have an argument with someone. In the workplace, Russians may be reluctant to forecast sales projections as they are worried that even mentioning it to someone before it is completed might jinx it (‘sglazit’), so you may find yourself having to ask more questions than you expected to get to the bottom of a project or sales that it still in the pipeline. Similarly woman may not announce that they are pregnant until several months into their pregnancy. Written in collaboration with Antal Russia/Luc Jones. For more information: www.antalrussia. com 66 Moscow In Your Pocket

Moscow Choral Synagogue

Religious Services Catholic Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception QA-1, Malaya Gruzinskaya ul. 27/13, MKrasnopresnenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 252 39 11, www.catedra.ru. Evangelical-Lutheran St. Peter-andPaul’s cathedral QD-3, Starosadsky per. 7/10 bldg.10, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 628 53 36, www.peter-paul.ru. Historical Moscow Mosque QD-4, Bol. Tatarskaya ul. 28 bldg. 1,2, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 84 48, www.manar.ru. Open 12:00 - 00:30. International Christian Fellowship QE-3, Nikoloyamskaya ul. 1, 3rd floor (Library of Foreign Languages), MTaganskaya, tel. (+7) 906 093 48 01, www.icfmoscow.org. Moscow Buddhist Centre QC-1, Petrovsky bul. 17/1, app.35 (entrance code 35k), MTrubnaya, tel. (+7) 495 609 03 80, www.mantra.ru/ en. Open 18:00 - 23:00. Moscow Choral Synagogue QD-3, Bol. Spasoglinishchevsky per. 10, MKitay Gorod, tel. +7 (495) 940-55-57, www.jewishcom.ru. Moscow Congregation for Progressive Judaism QVolochayevskaya ul. 14/1, MPloshad Ilyicha, tel. (+7) 495 632 57 98, www.meodom.ru. Moscow International Seventh-Day Adventist Church QNagatinskaya ul. 9, bldg. 3, MNagatinskaya, tel. (+7) 499 725 51 13, www.moscowchurch.ru. St. Andrew’s Anglican Church QB-2, Voznesensky per. 8, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 629 09 90, www.moscowanglican.org. St. Elisabethgemeinde QPr. Vernadskogo 103/139 bldg.3, MYugo-Zapadnaya, www.elisabethgemeinde-moskau.de. Synagogue na Bolshoy Bronnoy QB-2, Bol. Bronnaya ul. 6, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695 45 30, www.bronnaya.ru. moscow.inyourpocket.com

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moscow.inyourpocket.com

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70 Moscow In Your Pocket

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August - September 2014

St. Petersburg

Street register 1905 Goda ul. Akademika Sakharova pr. Alexandra Nevskogo ul. Alexandra Solzhenitsina ul. Apakova pr. Arbat ul. Armyansky per. Bakhrushina ul. Balchug ul. Bernikovskaya nab. Bersenevskaya nab. Bobrov per. Bogoyavlensky per. Bol. Afanasyevsky per. Bol. Balkansky per. Bol. Bronnaya ul. Bol. Dmitrovka ul. Bol. Dorogomilovskaya ul. Bol. Gruzinskaya ul. Bol. Karetny per. Bol. Kazenny per. Bol. Kharitonyevsky per. Bol. Kiselny per. Bol. Kislovsky per. Bol. Kozikhinsky per. Bol. Kozlovsky per. Bol. Levshinsky per. Bol. Lubyanka ul. Bol. Molchanovka ul. Bol. Nikitskaya ul. Bol. Ordynka ul. Bol. Palashevsky per. Bol. Patriarshy per. Bol. Polyanka ul. Bol. Sadovaya ul. Bol. Serpukhovskaya ul. Bol. Spasskaya ul. Bol. Staromonetny per. Bol. Strochenovsky per. Bol. Sukharevkaya pl. Bol. Sukharevsky per. Bol. Tatarskaya ul. Bol. Tatarsky per. Bol. Tishinsky per. Bol. Vlasyevsky per. Bol. Yakimanka ul. Bol. Znamensky per. Bolotnaya nab. Bolotnaya pl. Borodinskaya ul. (1ya) Borodinskaya ul. (2ya) Brestskaya ul. (1ya) Brestskaya ul. (2ya) Brodnikov per. Butikovsky per. Chayanova ul. Chistoprudny bul. Chisty per. Delegatskaya ul. Dobryninsky per. (1y) Dokuchaev per. Dolgorukovskaya ul. Dubininskaya ul. Durasovsky per. Durova ul. Ermolaevsky per. Eropkinsky per. Fadeeva ul. Filippovsky per. Furmanny per. Gagarinsky per. Gazetny per. Gilyarovskogo ul. Glazovsky per. Gogolevsky bul. Golikovsky per.

A-1/2 D-1/2 А/B-1 E-4 C-4 B-3 D-2 D-5 D-3/4 E-3 C-4 D-2 C/D-3 B-3/4 D-1 B-2 C-2 A-4 A-1/2 C-1 E-2 E-2 C/D-2 C-3 B-2 E-2 B-4 D-2 B-3 B/C-3 D-4/5 B-2 B-2 C-4/5 B-1/2 C/D-5 E-1 C-4 D-5 D-1 D-1 D-4/5 D-5 A-1 B-4 C-5 B-3/4 C-4 C-4 A-3/4 A-3 A/B-1 A/B-1 C-4/5 B-4 B-1 D/E-2 B-4 C-1 C-5 D-1 B-1 D-5 E-3 C-1 B-2 B-4 B-1 B-3 E-2 B-4 C-2/3 D-1 A/B-4 B-3/4 D-4

72 Moscow In Your Pocket

Golutvinsky per. (1y) Goncharnaya nab. Goncharnaya ul. Goncharny per. (2y) Gorokhovsky per. Granatny per. Grokholsky per. Gusyatnikov per. Ilinka ul. Ipatyevsky per. Kadashevskaya nab. Kadashevsky per. (1y) Kalanchevskaya ul. Kalashny per. Kazachy per. (1y) Kazachy per. (2y) Kazakova ul. Kazansky per. Kazarmeny per. Khilkov per. Khlebny per. Khokhlovsky per. Khvostov per. (1y) Kievskaya ul. Klimentovsky per. Kolpachny per. Kompozitorskaya ul. Komsomolskaya pl. Komsomolsky pr. Konyushkovskaya ul. Koptelsky per. (1y) Korobeynikov per. Korovy Val ul. Kosmodamianskaya nab. Kostyansky per. Kotelnicheskaya nab. Kotelnichesky per. (1y) Kozitsky per. Krasina ul. Krasnaya pl. (Red Square) Krasnaya presnya ul. Krasnopresnenskaya nab. Krasnoproletarskaya ul. Krasnoprudnaya ul. Kremlevskaya nab. Krivokolenny per. Kropotkinsky per. Krutitsky per. (3y) Krutitskaya nab. Krymskay nab. Krymsky proezd Krymsky Val. Kursovoy per. Kutuzovsky pr. Kuznetsky most ul. Lavrsky per. Lavrushinsky per. Leninsky pr. Leontievsky per. Lesnaya ul. Lubyansky proezd Lyalin per. Mal. Bronnaya ul. Mal. Dmitrovka ul. Mal. Gruzinskaya ul. Mal. Karetny per. Mal. Kozikhinsky per. Mal. Nikitskaya ul. Mal. Ordynka ul. Mal. Polyanka ul. Mal. Sukharevskaya pl. Mal. Yakimanka ul. Mal. Znamensky per. Manezhnaya pl. Manezhnaya ul. Marksistskaya ul.

C-4 E-4 E-4 E-4 E-2 B-2 D-1 D-2 C-3 D-3 C-4 C-4 E-1 B-3 C-5 C-5 E-2 C-5 E-3 B-4 B-3 D/E-3 C-5 A-4 D-4 D-2/3 A/B-3 E-1 F-6 A-2/3 D-1 B-4 C-5 D/E-4 D-1 D/E-4 D-4 C-2 A/B-1, B-2 C-3 A-2 A-3 B-1 E-1 C-3 D-2 B-4 E-5 E-5 B-5 B-5 B/C-5 B/C-4 A-3 C/D-2 C-1 C-4 F-6 B-2 A-1 D-2 E-2/3 B-2 B-1/2 A-2 C-1 B-2 B-2 D-4/5 C-5 D-1 C-4 B/C-3 C-3 C-3 E-4

Maronovsky per. Maroseyka ul. Mashkova ul. Merzlyakovsky per. Milyutinsky per. Miusskaya pl. Mohovaya ul. Molochny per. Monetchikovsky per. (2y) Monetchikovsky per. (3y) Monetchikovsky per. (5y) Monetchikovsky per. (6y) Moskvoretskaya nab. Myasnitskaya ul. Mytnaya ul. Neglinnaya ul. Nikitsky bul. Nikitsky per. Nikoloyamskaya ul. Nikolskaya ul. Nikolsky per. N. Krasnokholmskaya ul. N. Krasnoselskaya ul. Novaya Basmannaya ul. Novaya pl. Novinsky bul. Novokrymsky pr. Novokuznetskaya ul. Novokuznetsky per. (1y) Novokuznetsky per. (2y) Novoryazanskaya ul. Novy Arbat ul. Obydensky per. (2y) Okhotny ryad ul. Olimpiysky pr. Ostozhenka ul. Ovchinnikovskaya nab. Ozerkovskaya nab. Ozerkovsky per. Paveletskaya pl. Petrovka ul. Petrovsky bul. Petrovsky per. Pyzhevsky per. Pl. Nikitskie Vorota Plotnikov per. Plyushchikha ul. Podkolokolny per. Podsosensky per. Pogorelsky per. Pokrovka ul. Pokrovsky bul. Pomerantsev per. Posledny per. Potapovsky per. Povarskaya ul. Pozharsky per. Prechistenskaya nab. Prechistensky per. Presnensky val ul. Prospekt Mira Pushechnaya ul. Pushkinskaya nab. Pushkinskaya pl. Pyatnitskaya ul. Pevchesky per. Raushskaya nab. Romanov per. Rozhdestvenka ul. Rozhdestvensky bul. Runovsky per. Rybny per. Sadovaya-Karetnaya ul. Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul. Sadovaya-Spasskaya ul. Sadovaya-Triumfalnaya ul.

C-5 D-2/3 E-2 B-3 D-2 B-1 C-3 B-4 D-5 D-5 D-5 D-5 D-3 D-2 C-5 C-2 B-3 C-2/3 E-3/4 C-2/3 D-3 E-4/5 E-1 E-1 D-2 A-2/3 B-5 D-4/5 D-5 D-5 E-1 A/B-3 B-4 C-2/3 C-1 B-4/5 D-4 D-4 D-4 D-5 C-2 C-1/2 C-2 C-4 B-2 B-3 A-4 E-3 E-3 C-5 D/E-2 E-3 B-4 D-1 D-2 B-2/3 B-4 C-4 B-4 A-1/2 D-1 C/D-2 B-5 C-2 D-4 D-3 D-3 C-3 C-2 C/D-2 D-4 C-3 B/C-1 A/B-2 E-1/2 B-1

Sadovnicheskaya ul. Sadovnichesky proezd Samotyochnaya ul. Serebryanicheskaya nab. Shchepkina ul. Sivtsev Vrazhek per. Skatertny per. Smolensky bul. Smolenskaya ul. Sofiyskaya nab. Soymonovsky proezd Solyanka ul. Spasonalivkovsky p.(1y) Spiridonovka ul. Spiridonyevsky per. Sretenka ul. Sretensky bul. Stanislavskogo ul. Staraya pl. Starokonyushenny per. Staromonetny per. Starosadsky per. Stary Tolmachevsky per. Stoleshnikov per. Stolyarny per. Strastnoy bul. Sushchevskaya ul. Sytinsky per. Tarasa Shevchenko nab. Tatarskaya ul. Teatralny proezd Teterinsky per. Triumfalnaya pl. Trubnaya ul. Trubnikovsky per. Tryokhprudny per. Tsvetnoy bul. Tverskaya ul. Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. Tverskoy bul. Usacheva ul. Ustyinsky pr. Valovaya ul. Varsonofyevsky per. Varvarka ul. Vasilyevsky spusk pl. Vasilyevskaya ul. Vasnetsova per. V. Radishchevskaya ul. V. Syromyatnicheskaya ul. Volhonka ul. Vorontsovo pole Vorontsovskaya ul. Vozdvizhenka ul. Voznesensky per. Vspolny per. Yakimanskaya nab. Yakimansky proezd Yauzsky bul. Zemlyanoy Val ul. Zhitnaya ul. Zhukovskogo ul. Znamenka ul. Zoologicheskaya ul.

D-3/4 D-3 C-1 E-3 D-1 B-3 B-2/3 A-4 A-4 C-3 B-4 D-3 C-5 B-2 B-2 D-1 C-1 C-2 C-3 B-3/4 C-4 D-2/3 D-4 C-2 A-2 C-1/2 B-1 B-2 A-3 D-5 C-2 E-4 B-1 C-1 A/B-3 B-2 C-1 B-1/2 A/B-1 B -2 F-6 D-3/4 D-5 C/D-2 C-3 D-3 A/B-1 C-1 E-4 E-3 C-3/4 E-3 E-4/5 B/C-3 B-2 B-2 C-4 C-4 E-3 E-2/3/4

C-5 E-2 B/C-3 A-1/2

Abbreviations Ul. - Ulitsa Per. - Pereulok Pr. - Prospekt Pl. - Ploschad Bul. - Bulvar Nab. - Naberezhnaya Bol. - Bolshaya Mal. - Malaya

moscow.inyourpocket.com

Russia’s capital city Moscow may be buzzing with business and pleasure, but sometimes it’s worth escaping for a few days and a visit to St. Petersburg, Peter the Great’s Window on the West, is an ideal place to go if you are looking for a city easily navigated on foot and filled with history and beauty. Bursting with world class museums, stunning waterside panoramas, tranquil canals, beautiful neo-classical architecture and brimming with culture, there’s more than enough to enjoy at any time of year.

sightseeing Aleksander Nevsky Monastery QF-3, Nab. reky Monastyrky 1, MPl. Aleksandra Nevskogo, tel. (+7) 812 274 17 02, www.lavra.spb.ru. Open daily 06:00 - 20:00. Admission free. Church of the Saviour on the Spilt Blood QD-2, Nab. kan. Griboedova 2b, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 16 36, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Admission 50 - 250Rbl. Cruiser Avrora QE-1, PS, Petrogradskaya nab., MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 84 40. Open 11:00 - 17:15. Closed Mon, Fri. Admission 50 - 300Rbl. Kazan Cathedral QD-3, Kazanskaya pl. 2, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 314 46 63, www.kazansky-spb.ru. Open 09:00 - 20:00 Daily services 10:00 and 18:00. Admission free. Kunstkamera QC-2, Universitetskaya nab. 3, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 328 14 12, www.kunstkamera.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon and last Tue of the month. Admission 50 - 250Rbl. Peter and Paul Fortress QD-2, Petropavlovskaya krepost 3, MGorkovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 230 64 31, www.spbmuseum.ru. The fortress is open 08:30 - 21:00. Entrance to fortress is free. All inclusive ticket 370Rbl (ticket valid for all museums). www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket

Russian Museum QD-2, Inzhenernaya ul. 4, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 595 42 48, www.rusmuseum.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Mon 10:00 - 17:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue. Admission 150 - 350Rbl. All inclusive ticket 300 - 600Rbl. St. Isaac’s Cathedral QD-3, Isaakievskaya pl. 4, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 315 97 32, www.cathedral.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Wed. Colonnade open daily 11:00 - 17:00. Closed second Wed of the month. Admission Cathedral 50 - 250Rbl.

Luxury Trains If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the Northern Capital it is worth considering taking a private train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for St. Petersburg every night and offers a more hotel-like travel experience. After being shown to your cabin you will find your beds have already been made up with real duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages are spotless. Hot breakfast and coffee can be brought to your room in the morning and if at any moment during the trip you experience some problems you can call the train attendant from the comfort of your bed and they will come to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow truly fresh in the morning, it’s worth the money. Trains leave Leningradsky vokzal (metro Komsomolskaya) at 00:56 and arrive in St. Petersburg at 09:00. For reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online at www.megapolis-te.ru

August - September 2014

St. Petersburg HOTELS Angleterre Hotel QD-3, Mal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com. 193 rooms. hhhhh Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg QE-3, Nevsky pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 20 01, www.corinthia.com. 388 rooms. hhhhh Grand Hotel Europe QD-3, Mikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. 276 rooms. hhhhh Hotel Astoria QD-3, Bol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria.com. 188 rooms. hhhhh Kempinski Hotel Moika 22 QD-2, Nab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 91 11, www.kempinski.com/stpetersburg. 197 rooms. hhhhh Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge QC-2, Birzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 22 00, www.sokoshotels.com. 324 rooms. hhhhh Taleon Imperial Hotel QD-3, Nevsky pr. 15, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 324 99 11, www.taleonimperialhotel.com. 89 rooms. hhhhh W St. Petersburg QD-3, Voznesensky pr. 6, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 610 61 61, www.wstpetersburg.com. 137 rooms. hhhhh Crowne Plaza St. Petersburg - Ligovsky QE-3, Ligovsky pr. 61, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812 244 00 01, www.crowneplaza.com/ligovsky. 195 rooms. hhhh Novotel St. Petersburg Centre QE-3, Ul. Mayakovskogo 3A, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 335 11 88, www.accorhotels.com/5679. 233 rooms. hhhh AZIMUT Hotel Saint Petersburg QC-4, Lermontovsky pr. 43/1, MBaltiskaya, tel. (+7) 812 740 26 40, www.azimuthotels.com. 1037 rooms. hhh

getting there There are dozens of night trains travelling every day between Moscow and St. Petersburg, some of them modern and upscale like the Megapolis (see page 65), and others more suitable for those on a small budget. In addition there are also many super-fast trains (called the ‘Sapsan’) which make the journey in just over 4 hours and travel daily during the morning, afternoon and early evening. There are also of course frequent flight connections between Moscow’s main airports and St. Petersburg’s Pulkovo airport. 74 Moscow In Your Pocket

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