THE PEOPLE
Moutere Magic
Evolving legacy at Neudorf EMMA JENKINS MW Nestled in the verdant hills of Upper Moutere, is one of New Zealand’s pioneering wineries. Founded in 1978 by Tim and Judy Finn, Neudorf Vineyards has long helped define what great Nelson wine looks like, gaining particular attention for its worldclass Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. These days, a new generation is carrying the torch forward, gently evolving the estate without losing sight of the foundations Neudorf was built on: authenticity, and deep respect for people and place.
“From the start, Dad was drawn to the idea of dry farming, and clay made that possible. He was an early believer in climate change, so soil resilience mattered.” Rosie Finn Tim and Judy started out as a research scientist and budding journalist respectively, but wine soon called. Working in the Waikato as an animal behaviouralist for Ruakura Agricultural Research Centre, in the burgeoning field of dairy, Tim was increasingly interested in research being carried out in soil science and wine at the nearby Te Kauwhata Viticultural Research Station, and managed to convince Judy that wine might be their future. Moving to Nelson in 1976, their search led them to the Moutere Hills, an area characterised by plenty of sunshine and deep clay gravel soils, where they bought an ex-commune called ‘Farmagusta’. Tim milled a couple of big macrocarpa trees to create a winery from a 120-year-old stable on the property, built a grafting machine and they got planting. Recognising the potential of the local terroir, they planted a spread of varieties to determine which would thrive best. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Riesling and Pinot Gris emerged as as the consistent performers, and these remain the backbone of Neudorf today. The early days were marked by challenges, Judy says. “Four mortgages and three jobs
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each. The old house had electricity in two rooms, an outside long drop, an inefficient wood stove and no hot water.” There was also the need to understand the nuances of viticulture in an uncharted region, the Seifrieds being their only fellow vignerons for quite some time. The Finns’ dedication paid off, and by the early 1990s, Neudorf was making its mark with wines of impressive quality and character. In 2016, Rosie Finn, Tim and Judy’s daughter, returned to Neudorf having lived in London after graduating from her design and photography studies. “Honestly, what brought me back was Brexit,” she laughs. “I was living a great life in London, right in the thick of the wine world, but couldn’t extend my visa. The plan was to come home for a summer, maybe head to Auckland after that… But once I was back in the business, I was hooked.” Her preparation? “Minimal – just a one-way ticket from London to Upper Moutere.” Eight years on, she and Winemaker and General Manager Todd Stevens have firmly taken the reins of Neudorf, allowing Tim and Judy to step back into roles as sounding boards and strategic oversight, giving them more time in their gardens and kitchen. Todd, who moved to Neudorf in 2012, after seven years in Central Otago at Quartz Reef and Felton Road, brings a wealth of experience and a hands-off winemaking approach to the cellar. “I’ve been lucky to learn from Rudi [Bauer], Blair [Walter], and Tim - it’s given me a solid foundation in what Neudorf is about,” he says. “But time in the seat matters, too. You start to read the sites and the seasons more intuitively.” Rosie and Todd have become a formidable duo. “Hopefully I bring a bit of energy and a fresh set of eyes,” Rosie says. “I’m really
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proud of what Tim and Jude built, so I try to respect that legacy. I probably bring some extra sass, and I’m handy on the backend of the website or when the phones go down – the token millennial.” Todd is like “an overachieving, intelligent big brother I’m always trying to keep up with,” she says. “He’s humble, strategic, brilliant with business, and has a cunningly great sense of humour. He’s obviously a great winemaker and a vital part of the fabric here, and I’m so grateful Tim and Jude offered him the job.” Todd is quick to credit Rosie’s influence. “She has an ease in the way she connects with people and the market… she reads the room well. As a result, she’s a fantastic brand ambassador – she understands the intrinsic drivers of Neudorf. Her youthful approach has kept us current too, which is very important. She’s had an amazing impact on the brand since she has come into the business.” Together, they’ve made key structural decisions, including a significant reshaping of the wine range. “That was one of the big early moves Todd and I made,” Rosie says. “I’m really proud of how it’s shaped up. It gives clarity, honours our single vineyards, and reflects each wine’s nuance. It feels settled. Hopefully it holds for the long haul.” Neudorf ’s winemaking philosophy remains one of minimal intervention, but with a pragmatic mindset. “We farm organically, use wild ferments, natural malo if it happens, and we don’t fine,” says Todd. “But we’ll lend a hand when the season calls for it. The amphorae have been a great addition, and we’ll expand that. We’re always up for thoughtful experimentation.” Sustainability has long been at the heart of Neudorf ’s approach. “We committed fully to organics in 2014 and were certified