New Zealand Winegrower June/July 2025

Sustainability

ISSUE 152 – JUNE/JULY 2025

Astrolabe wears many hats when it comes to authentic and sustainable wines, including Tōitu Carbon Zero certification, organic practices, and the restoration of a waterway with their Grovetown neighbours. Arabella Waghorn, here at The Farm, a BioGro certified vineyard at the heart of the family-owned company, says it’s natural to want to do better for the land and environment, the next generation and, of course, the wines. Photo Finn Scott-Kelly. Go to page 17.

Editorial Sophie Preece

From the CEO

Philip Gregan

The Profile Rosie Finn & Todd Stevens

Growing Legacy

Bladen Wines

Biosecurity Update

Xylella fastidiosa

Advocacy

Sustainability Report 2025

Thirty years after the launch of Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand, Aotearoa’s wine industry continues to stride towards a better future. The New Zealand Winegrowers Sustainability Report offers data-driven insights into key areas, including mitigating climate change, protecting waterways, and enhancing soil and plant health.

Organic & Biodynamic Conference

From cutting edge drones and laser bird scarers to horse-drawn ploughs and biodynamic preparations, organic winegrowers are embracing high tech and traditional practices to do the best for their soils, plants, people and planet.

Invivo Veritas

A brand known for its audacious innovations and celebrity connections, Invivo continues to colour outside the lines of traditional wine marketing, with ambitions to be “100% bullshit free”.

COVER PHOTO

EDITOR Sophie Preece

sophie@sophiepreece.co.nz

CORRESPONDENTS

North Island

Joelle Thomson

Emma Jenkins MW

South Island

Claire Finlayson

Stephanie McIntyre

Joanna Grigg

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Published by Rural News Group Ltd under authority of New Zealand Winegrowers Inc. Unless directly attributed, opinions expressed in the magazine are not necessarily those of Rural News Group and/or its directors or management, New Zealand Winegrowers Inc. or its constituent organisations. Published every second month. One free copy is mailed to every member of New Zealand Winegrowers Inc, New Zealand Society of Viticulture & Oenology and the New Zealand Vine Improvement Group, and to such other persons or organisations as directed by the owners, with provision for additional copies and other recipients to be on a subscription.

ISSN 1174-5223

From the Editor

Over the past 25 years growing wine, Jonathan Hamlet has seen “a massive evolution” in the care taken in vineyards. “From learning that dirt wasn’t dirt, it was a whole ecosystem beneath my feet, to Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand (SWNZ) becoming a world class vineyard standard.” The main thing the viticulturist (page 24) has learned in this evolution, “is that we always have to keep moving forward”.

This edition focuses in on the New Zealand Winegrowers Sustainability Report 2025, released as the industry celebrates 30 years of SWNZ. That benchmark programme’s great success is thanks in part to having such high industry buy-in, with 98% of all producing vineyard area certified by SWNZ, providing empirical data consumers can trust. But its global recognition is also due to the industry’s constant drive to move forward, do better and challenge the status quo, from the Roadmap to Net Zero 2050, decarbonising wine (page 16), to Project Raumatatiki (page 22), helping winegrowers better protect their waterways.

Beyond their SWNZ requirements, myriad wine companies are going above and beyond when it comes to the environment, with a dedication to soils, plants and planet. What I have loved in preparing this edition, is seeing how challenging the status quo sometimes means tapping into cutting edge technology, and other times looking back to traditional techniques. In Central Otago, Felton Road is using drones to spray, reducing emissions and compaction while enhancing precision (page 18). Meanwhile in Marlborough, Emma Rossignol is ploughing vineyards with her Clydesdale Duchess (see page 26) for exactly the same reasons. “Our understanding of soils and plants has come a long way, and there’s a need to embrace some of the new technologies,” says the committee co-chair of the Organic & Biodynamic Winegrowing Conference Nick Pett (page 24 ) of that juxtaposition in organic vineyards around the country. “Things don’t have to be done like they were 100 years ago, but there is a time and place to use these historical learnings too.” The conference embraces both, with sessions on biodynamic winegrowing and on counting earthworms using environmental DNA.

The meeting of traditional ways and a sustainable future are perfectly encapsulated by Matariki, emphasising the relationships between nature and people. Viticulturist Jeff Sinnott, a member of the Tuku Māori Winemakers Collective, looks at their relevance to our grape and wine community in this edition as well. Manaaki Whenua, Manaaki Tangata, Haere Whakamua; If we take care of the earth, and take care of the people, we will take care of the future.

Sophie Preece EDITOR

Stephanie McIntyre

Sommelier and wine communicator

Stephanie McIntyre attended a lunch with Graham Norton during vintage 2025, when the wine collaborator visited Marlborough. In this edition she explores Invivo’s exceptional celebrity credentials.

Go to page 29

Contributors

Jeff Sinnott

Viticulturist Jeff Sinnott (Ngāti Tūwharetoa, Ngāti Kahungunu ki Wairoa) spoke at Pinot Noir New Zealand 2025 about the place of Pinot in Aotearoa. With the stars of Matariki to rise in June, Jeff looks at their relevance to our grape and wine community.

Go to page 37

Emma Jenkins MW Millennials are increasingly turning to artisanal products in “a profound movement” reshaping consumer behaviour. Emma Jenkins MW wonders what that means for wine, “layered as it is with cultural, ethical, aesthetic and existential meanings.”

Go to page 40

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From the CEO

It’s time to have your say

PHILIP GREGAN

New Zealand Winegrowers is entering the final phases of a process to update its funding, governance and representation of members. The process will conclude later this year with member votes on final proposals, but for the moment we need feedback from members so we can decide which proposals to put to your vote.

Background

At the commencement of the current review process, we had a simple goal – ensuring the future New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) is fit for purpose. To achieve that we set up a board committee, drafted in three non-board members – Beth Forrest, Steve Smith MW and Lindsay Parkinson – and also involved two non-industry independents – Melissa Clark-Reynolds and Scott Champion. Last year, as a step in the process, nearly 100 of you attended industry workshops where we outlined the options for change. Now we’re at the point where we need your feedback. Many things will remain the same, but we are proposing some important changes, so we want to hear from you before developing the final proposals.

Levies

We’ve examined all aspects of the two levy system – on grape sales and wine sales – that funds Winegrowers. We’ve confirmed the current two levy system is the best option. Basing the levies on sales makes sense as that’s when the revenue is generated to pay the levies. We are not suggesting any changes to the grape levy – it looks good to us. But for the wine levy we are proposing changes. The issue with the wine levy is there are a large number of wineries who only pay a small amount of levy; offsetting that is the very small number of wineries who pay a large amount of levy. How do we get the balance right between these two extremes?

Our approach has been guided by principles of value and fairness. We believe Winegrowers delivers real value to all members through the programmes and services that we offer. A wine levy payment

of just $5 or $10 greatly underestimates that value. Fairness – in our view every litre should pay at least some levy, even if the total payment is significant.

What we are suggesting won’t impact the large number of wineries selling in the broad range between 15,000 and 18 million litres of wine each year. No change for them but, yes, changes for those selling less or more.

We are suggesting a minimum wine levy payment of $500 per year. Given the services that Winegrowers deliver, we consider that represents value for money. It will also mean small wineries pay once a year rather than the admin heavy, quarterly instalments.

For large wineries, we are proposing to remove the cap on levy payments. Replacing that will be a tiered levy system impacting sales above 18m litres. At the top tier, sales above 27m litres will pay a levy, whereas they don’t now, but it will be at just 10% of the core levy rate.

The proposed levy changes are not about generating more revenue for NZW, rather they are about value and fairness. Together we think these changes will bring better balance to the wine levy system.

The Board

NZW is governed by a board of 12, with 10 elected directors, and two appointed. The review concluded the board would be more efficient if it was smaller. We are following that advice and are proposing to reduce the board from 12 to nine members. To achieve that, the number of industry elected directors will need to reduce from 10 to six, with half elected (as is currently the case) by one member one vote, and half based on $1 of levy payment one vote. The review also recommended more independent directors. We suggest three independent directors on the board, rather than the current two.

This means the balance, in normal circumstances, between industry elected and independent directors will be six to three. An industry majority of course, but balanced with significant independent input. We are proposing one exception to

this. Remembering that we have two levies, we suggest, as a protection for levy payers, that at all times at least two levy payers from each of the two levies must be on the board.

So, if there aren’t two levy payers from each levy after an election, then the board must, in the first instance, use the appointed director slots to reach this level. Once that is done, they can move to appoint independent directors.

There are a couple of other changes we are proposing: First, to remove an obstacle for members standing for election, we want to lift the remuneration for directors to a market-based rate, rather than the industrygood rate we are currently paying. In part this cost will be offset by having a smaller board. Ultimately the remuneration for the board will continue to be approved each year by the membership at the Annual Members’ Meeting.

Finally, we suggest that we have one or two associate directors sit on the board. These roles wouldn’t have a vote, and would be reserved for young people in our industry wanting to learn about governance.

Representation

The proposal for a smaller board inevitably raises the question of how we continue to ensure the views of individual members are heard. Noting the proposal to require a minimum of two grape and two wine levy payers on the board at all times, we also want to better use our various committees as a vehicle for member engagement. So, our proposal is to reinforce the requirement for member representation in the Rules of each committee. This will help ensure that as issues arise, members are engaged on the matters of interest to them.

We are also having a look at the relationship between Winegrowers and the regional bodies, to ensure we are as coordinated and effective as possible, working together for members.

As noted, the above are just proposals at this stage. We need member feedback to ensure the proposals we submit for approval later in the year will meet your future needs. So make sure you have your say.

1 6 2 7 3 8 4 9 5 10

Jerome Wenzlick

Future Post sets “benchmark”

A company transforming waste plastics into valuable vineyard posts took top prize at the 2025 Port Marlborough Marlborough Environment Awards. “Future Post is an inspiring example of Kiwi innovation at its best,” the judging panel said when presenting the Supreme Award. “They’ve taken a pressing environmental issue – plastic waste – and turned it into a profitable, scalable solution that benefits multiple sectors, including agriculture, viticulture and infrastructure. Their dedication to continuous improvement, environmental responsibility and community engagement sets a new benchmark for sustainable enterprise in New Zealand.”

Read more on page 42

Interactive wine map

A new interactive Marlborough wine map represents a “quantum leap in communicating Marlborough’s diverse wine story”, says Sophie Parker Thomson MW. Sophie, who is Chair of Appellation Marlborough Wine (AMW), says the digital map, developed in partnership with Marlborough-based geospatial experts MapHQ, offers insights into the factors that define Marlborough wines. Users can explore distinct subregions through interactive layers of topography, rainfall, temperature, and soil composition, alongside photography and expert commentary from leading winemakers and viticulturists. “For the first time, we are offering a dynamic, visual exploration of how our distinctive subregions and microclimates stylistically contribute to our wines,” Sophie says. “It’s an indispensable resource for anyone seeking to deepen their understanding of what makes the Marlborough wine region, and the AMW certified wines produced here, so exceptional.” The Interactive Wine Map of Marlborough is an extension of the original Wine Map of Marlborough, created by the Marlborough Wine Map Collective. appellationmarlboroughwine.co.nz/map

Felton Road named top winery

Felton Road has been named The Real Review Winery of the Year New Zealand for the second year running. The Bannockburn winery continued refining its craft, “delivering an outstanding set of new releases last year as a result of meticulous attention to detail in their biodynamic vineyards, sympathetic, sensitive winemaking and a beautiful vintage”, says Stephen Wong MW, who led the expert tasting panel. Destiny Bay held onto its second-place position, followed by Te Whare Ra Wines. Te Whare Ra’s Anna and Jason Flowerday also won the inaugural Vigneron of the Year Award, recognising excellence in viticulture. The Rising Star of the Year award went to Simon Sharpe and Lauren Keenan of A Thousand Gods (see page 27), making natural wines from organic fruit grown in Marlborough’s Waihopai Valley.

Several of the winning wineries are organic producers. “As with many other regions of the world, we’re seeing rising representation of organic (and regenerative) farming in top New Zealand wines,” Stephen says. “In part, it is due to there being common philosophical underpinnings to choosing organic farming and pursuing top quality, so there is often a higher likelihood of one also being the other.” However, he has also noticed that top estates who previously farmed conventionally are increasingly adopting organic practices, “because of the incremental improvements they bring, allowing these producers to push quality just that little bit further, eking out a bit more expression and character.”

For more on organic winegrowing in New Zealand, go to 24

Vinarchy

Accolade Wines and Pernod Ricard Winemakers have come together to form a new global wine company, Vinarchy. The company has 11 wineries in Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, and Spain, including Stoneleigh, Brancott Estate, and Mud House in New Zealand. Vinarchy combines Vin (the French word for wine), with Archy (from the Ancient Greek word for leadership). Executive Chairman Ben Clarke says Vinarchy will bring scale and innovation to global winemaking: “The global wine industry faces serious structural challenges. Global wine consumption has been declining for years, driven by changing consumer preferences and a shift to lower-alcohol drinks. Vinarchy will be bold and imaginative in meeting these challenges.”

Jason and Anna Flowerday on the cover of Winegrower magazine, June/Juny 2023.

Photo Richard Briggs

Wild wine wins

Having Isabel Estate’s Wild Barrique Chardonnay 2022 named Wine of the Year at the London Wine Competition shows what Marlborough is capable of, says winemaker Jeremy McKenzie. “We all know that New Zealand produces globally acclaimed Sauvignon Blanc, but Chardonnay is probably the country’s best kept secret and Wild Barrique is certainly testament to that.” The London Wine Competition rewards wines based on quality, value and packaging, in recognition of three key factors that influence consumer buying decisions. Jeremy received the news amid harvest, while busy “banking” the 2025 Wild Barrique Chardonnay, “which we believe has the bones to be another top wine in the future”. He says the wine has performed incredibly with consumers and critics since its first vintage in 2016. “It’s one of those wines that continues to capture attention with its complexity, concentration and length.” The 2022 vintage was also awarded Champion Wine at the National Wine Awards of Aotearoa New Zealand in 2023, where Jeremy was named Winemaker of the Show.

Fairhall winery hits quarter century

Villa Maria’s Fairhall Winery in Marlborough celebrates its 25th anniversary this year, having been opened in 2000 by then-Prime Minister Helen Clark. It’s nearly 10 years since the 7.8 magnitude 2016 Kaikōura earthquake saw an 80-metre crane on-site for five months and a new tank shed built to house the tank repairs. With the onset of the Covid-19 pandemic, ‘Coachella’ was established at the winery, with a community of campervans onsite to accommodate the vintage crew, along with a temporary kitchen, laundry, showers and toilets. These days the site, which has hosted musical acts like Dave Dobbyn, Bic Runga and Fat Freddy’s Drop, can process just under 20 million litres. In 2021, Indevin purchased the Villa Maria brand, which celebrated its 60th anniversary in 2022.

Upcycle at Repost

After five years giving a new lease of life to vineyard posts, Marlborough-based company Repost is getting its own upcycle, in a joint venture with timber manufacturer OneForty One, which mills micronised copper azoleated (MCA) posts at its Kaituna Mill. The local collaboration means Repost can offer a trellis post lifecycle service – for every MCA trellis post they sell they will repurpose a copper chromium arsenate treated post from the purchaser, diverting broken posts from landfill to give them a second life as farm fence posts. It’s essentially a trade-in policy, says Repost cofounder Greg Coppell. “It’s not often that the most sustainable solution is also the most economic one.”

The Heirloom Series

The Ormond Nurseries ‘Heirloom Series’ is a collection of special genetic selections that have been carefully chosen and cultivated over decades by experienced viticulturists and winemakers in New Zealand. “It is a pretty special collection,” says Ormond Nurseries General Manager Marcus Wickham. In 2020 the company purchased Vineyard Plants Ltd, which was the original nursery for Villa Maria, including the original clones, varieties and rootstocks previously only available to Villa. “No land or equipment came with that purchase, only selections that were previously unavailable to the wider industry,” Marcus says. “Hand-selected by a very successful winemaking and viticulture team and proven over time, the ONL Heirloom series includes top performing clones that have been chosen for their unique flavour and qualities, vigour and performance.” The range includes Chardonnay ONL Monte, Chardonnay ONL Mendoza, and Sauvignon Blanc ONL 101. “We are adding to this series other Sauvignon Blanc clones and some new imports that we have identified, collected, and would like to share to the wider New Zealand wine industry.”

Repost cofounder Greg Coppell

Jeremy McKenzie

To have events added to our calendar contact sophie@sophiepreece.co.nz

Biosecurity Planning Workshops

4 June – 26 June

Workshops are being held around the country to share tools and knowledge winegrowers can use to develop a robust biosecurity plan tailored to their site. All Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand (SWNZ) vineyard members will need to have a biosecurity plan in place by 30 June 2026. Remaining workshops are on:

• 4 June, Northland

• 5 and 6 June, Auckland/Waikato

• 17 June, Wairarapa

• 24 June, Gisborne

• 26 June, Hawke’s Bay nzwine.com/members/sustainability/ biosecurity/swnz

Grape Days 2025

5 June – Central Otago

10 June – Marlborough

12 June – Hawke’s Bay nzwine.com/en/initiativesevents/ research/grapedays

The Roadmap to Net Zero is a key component of this year’s Grape Days, including case studies in emissions reductions and advice on calculating carbon. Other timely topics include genetic advancements in grapevines and the potential of genomics in the vineyard, as well as updates on the Next Generation Viticulture programme, and the use of UV-C light as an alternative to fungicides. Research into the measurement of soil moisture for irrigation management, and of the influence of vineyard management on mycorrhizae, will also be outlined this year.

The day-long Grape Days events are funded by the New Zealand Winegrowers levy and delivered by Bragato Research Institute, providing high-level overviews of research with a practical focus.

Scientific Research Conference

9 June

mrc.org.nz/nzwc-scientific-researchconference

The New Zealand Wine Centre 2025 Scientific Research Conference, to be held at the Wine Centre in Blenheim this winter, will explore cutting-edge wine and viticulture science from a range of New Zealand research providers. Dr Stewart Field, from Nelson Marlborough Institute of Technology, says the event is a chance to delve into developments from established scientists and emerging PhD and master’s students, and is fertile ground for building science partnerships.

Organic

& Biodynamic

Winegrowing Conference

16 -18 June

organicwineconference.com

The Organic & Biodynamic Winegrowing Conference will bring together industry experts from around New Zealand and across the globe to examine topics including climate change, water ecology, biodiversity, soil health, biodynamics and regenerative viticulture.

An Aotearoa tasting and an international tasting will punctuate the programme of insightful and informed presentations, as will the Matariki Organic Feast on 17 June, featuring special guest chef Kia Kanuta, named Auckland’s Outstanding Chef for 2024 at the Lewisham Awards. The kitchen is “a gift that keeps on giving”, says Kia, whose traumatic teenage years led him to his first kitchen gig, washing dishes at the Avondale RSA, where he found support from two head chefs. “The kitchen saved my life in so many ways. Feeding people is a love language for me, and a sense of belonging is what keeps me there.” Inspired by the stars of the Matariki constellation, the theme and dress code for the Feast is “A Touch of Sparkle”

Young Winemaker

National Final

26 August

nzwine.com/en/initiativesevents/ youngwinemaker

The Tonnellerie de Mercurey Young Winemaker of the Year Competition champions emerging young winemakers in the New Zealand wine industry. It is open to young people working in all roles, from winemakers and assistant winemakers to cellar hands, cellar managers and lab staff. They are tested across a wide range of skills and knowledge, including blending, laboratory tests, viticultural knowledge, tasting analysis and market knowledge.

Regional finals are on:

• 16 July, Marlborough

• 24 July, North Island

• 31 July, Central Otago

The winners of each local event competition will go on to compete in the National Final in Canterbury in August.

Young Viticulturist

National Final 27 August

nzwine.com/en/initiativesevents/ youngvit

The Young Viticulturist of the Year Competition tests competitors on a mix of practical and theoretical tasks, including pruning, netting, irrigation, machinery, pests and diseases, budgeting, nutrition, wine knowledge, irrigation, trellising and an interview, as well as the classic BioStart Hortisports race, a quiz round, and a speech at the awards dinner.

The regional events are on:

• 29 May, Marlborough

• 5 June, Hawke’s Bay

• 12 June, North Island Regional

• 26 June, South Island Regional

• 3 July, Central Otago

Winners from those competitions will go on to the National Final at Greystone in North Canterbury on 27 August, with the winner announced at the New Zealand Wine 2025 Celebration Dinner.

Wine Business Forum

28 August

nzwine.com/en/initiativesevents

The New Zealand Wine 2025 Wine Business Forum, to be held in Ōtautahi Christchurch, has a theme of Embracing Change and Sustaining Growth, offering attendees insights into the rapidly changing landscape of the global wine industry, with tips on how New Zealand’s industry can look to sustain future growth. The forum incorporates topics on sustainability and its importance to Wine Business, as the SWNZ programme celebrates 30 years since its

Natalie Wang, a highly awarded Hong Kong-based Chinese wine journalist, and founder of Vino Joy News, will join the forum speaking on the future of Asia’s wine markets. “I just learned that New Zealand wine exports to China have reached a milestone of AU$50 million,” says Natalie, after ProWine Hong Kong. “The surge is largely driven by younger consumers in China who are showing a growing preference for white wines over reds. As a new generation forms its drinking habits, this trend is likely to continue, fuelling growth for New Zealand wine in the Chinese market.”

New Zealand Wine 2025 28 August nzwine.com/en/initiativesevents

The New Zealand Wine 2025 Celebration Dinner, in Ōtautahi Christchurch after the Wine Business Forum, is a perfect opportunity to celebrate industry successes with friends, colleagues and stalwarts. Attendees will raise a glass to the New Zealand Winegrowers Fellows

Organic

Wine Week 15-21 September organicwinenz.com

Organic Wine Week celebrates organic wine, highlighting the quality and environmental benefits of organic wine production. The week features various activities, including wine tastings, special promotions and educational events to raise awareness about organic wines. It’s an opportunity

Unlock

the story behind the label

The Tantalus wine label, crafted by MCC Albany, is printed on a luxurious felt-textured stock with a beautiful matt gold finish.

Featuring two intricately designed keys in gold hot foil with debossed details, the label reflects the rich heritage and breathtaking landscapes that inspire Tantalus wines. This exquisite label invites discovery, celebrating tradition, artistry, and the enduring connection between people and place.

Talk to MCC New Zealand where every product is labelled with care.

The 2024 Wine Business Forum

Down to Earth, part of Organic Wine Week, will be held in Auckland and Sydney this year

Producer: Tantalus

Designer: Chris Ward & Shantala McNeish

Altogether Unique

Growing the reputation of New Zealand Wine

Charlotte Read

Impactful coverage continues to pop up from Pinot Noir New Zealand 2025, with pieces from international hosted guests at the event, who also spent time in our wine regions. You can find the stories at nzwine.com/ members/brand/visit/nz-wine-press-coverage. We are looking forward to welcoming more international guests as speakers at our Wine Business Forum on 28 August, at Te Pae in Ōtautahi Christchurch (nzwine.com/ en/initiativesevents/nzw25). Entitled ‘Embracing Change and Sustaining Growth’, the speaker programme includes wine-business analyst Rob McMillan, author of Silicon Valley Bank’s highly regarded annual State of the Wine Industry Report, and leading Chinese wine journalist Natalie Wang, the founder of Vino Joy News, among other insightful and inspiring international experts. The lineup will grow attendees’ understanding of the new market realities of exporting to the US and will offer insights into the strong potential for New Zealand wine in Asia. As we mark 30 years of Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand (SWNZ), we will also explore the importance of sustainability in wine business. The day provides an excellent opportunity to connect with peers, share knowledge and take away something actionable for your business. We look forward to seeing you there.

Charlotte Read is General Manager Brand at NZW

To amplify the milestone of 30 years of SWNZ, the NZW Canada team has been working with Michelle Bouffard on a communications campaign leading up to the Tasting Climate Change Conference in January 2026. This is a Canadian initiative but has broad international reach. The campaign kicked off with a dedicated Tasting Climate Change newsletter on Earth Day, entitled ‘A Toast to 30 Years of Sustainability’, which highlighted SWNZ’s progress and vision for the future. Additional storytelling is already in motion, including a featured article in Quench Magazine, exploring SWNZ’s Water pillar, and a piece in Le Devoir (Québec) that takes a closer look at New Zealand’s carbon emissions footprint and the Road Map to Carbon Zero.

In September 2025, we will launch a monthly interview series in the Tasting Climate Change newsletter. These features will spotlight New Zealand wineries taking bold action against climate change, from regenerative farming to energy efficiency and packaging innovation. Each piece will serve as both a celebration and a call to action, building anticipation for the global dialogue to come at the 2026 conference.

Japanese Sommelier Association Young Sommelier of The Year Competition

At the Japanese Sommelier Association Young Sommelier of the Year competition in Tokyo, Bungo Matsunaga, of Cellar Door Aoyama, presented a session inspired by his recent visit to New Zealand for Pinot Noir New Zealand 2025, including earning a coveted spot for Sommit. Organised by New Zealand Trade and Enterprise (NZTE), the event drew 23 young sommeliers and key media from Japan’s top wine publications. The curated

Noir selection was praised for its freshness and aromatic expression. Leading sommelier Miyuki Morimoto commended the high calibre of wines, noting it is rare for Japanese sommeliers to experience such a premium lineup in one sitting.

NZW Annual China Roadshow

On the back of strong export growth to China, with exports having reached an all-time high, exceeding the $50m threshold for the first time (March MAT $51.5m), we were especially excited to deliver our three-city roadshow in May. NZW returned to the tier one cities Guangzhou and Shanghai, and for the first time expanded our presence to the tier two city of Qingdao. We had 2,270 attendees across the three cities, allowing New Zealand wineries active in the China market, or seeking distribution, to showcase their wines to trade professionals in New Zealand’s primary markets there. Beyond wine, the event offers a broader brand New Zealand experience, to resonate with the audience at large. NZW partnered with other New Zealand exporters and Air New Zealand to enrich the experience and foster lasting awareness for both our country and its wines. The roadshow is structured into two primary segments: the Masterclass and the Trade Tasting. To promote enhanced market understanding, prior to the tasting, NZTE led the China outlook seminar for New Zealand wineries and their importers, which NZW members could also join live as a webinar.

Pinot

NZTE Trade Commissioner Kylie Archer with Bungo Matsunaga

Michelle Bouffard speaking at The Tasting Climate Change conference Tasting Climate Change

Organic & Biodynamic Winegrowing Conference

Loveblock Wine founder Erica Crawford is one of the organisers of the upcoming Organic & Biodynamic Winegrowing Conference, in Marlborough from 16-18 June. She says it is an important time to share space with “passionate likeminded people”.

This event is... a must do for organic practitioners, from vineyard through to sales and marketing. With so much information coming at us every minute of the day, it’s good to take time away to listen to passionate and experienced people, instead of a screen. I always drift out on a high, fuelled by inspiration.

Speaker highlights include… Joseph Brinkley from Bonterra Organic Estates in California. Bonterra is the biggest organic producer in the United States, and has been practising organics since 1987. They have lived though many farming and market cycles. Consumers are increasingly turning to ethical and intentionally grown and made products, and organics is clearly defined in a myriad of confusing certifications and accreditations. I also want to hear Dr Andre Leu and learn from his experience in biological agricultural systems. These are eroded with intensive farming around the world, in an effort to feed a growing population. And of course our own Jeremy Hyland and Mike Saunders.

New Zealand is… a small island and, as I see it, we Kiwis are abusing our beautiful little country. The very least we can do is to take care of the soil; soil is everything. And don’t get me started on plastic.

My route to organics was… gradual. A traumatic event forced me to look at my lifestyle, I gradually eliminated additives, then looked at skin care and house cleaning agents – a chemical bath! So when we started Loveblock, it was a logical step. I feel very privileged to be able to live my values in a commercial situation.

The future of organic winegrowing is… bright. Consumers are much more educated and aware of the effect of agrochemicals, not only on human health, but also the environment.

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Erica Crawford

Focus

Sustainability Stories

Sustainability is “business as usual” for New Zealand wine producers, after 30 years measuring and improving their environmental footprint. With the release of the New Zealand Winegrowers Sustainability Report 2025, SOPHIE PREECE checks in with winegrowers, suppliers and auditors on how and why we’re growing greener.

NZW Sustainability Report 2025

Thirty years after the launch of Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand, the wine industry’s dedication to protecting soils, waterways and climate is stronger than ever. “It runs throughout all that we do”, says New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) General Manager Sustainability Dr Edwin Massey. “Sustainability has become part of business as usual, and people are looking to innovate to really accelerate their progress.”

“Year by year, bit by bit, our world and our wine will be better for it.”

Dr Edwin Massey

The NZW Sustainability Report 2025 takes the pulse of the industry’s progress with sustainability goals of climate change, water, people, soil, waste, and plant protection, highlighting empirical data collected from Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand (SWNZ) members. It is also a “call to action” regarding the next steps they can take, Edwin says. “We do what we do because every little bit counts – taken together, many small changes can lead to rapid progress. Our efforts at continuous improvements are important now; and making further progress will be key to enhancing our reputation in the future.”

Climate change is the biggest long-term challenge facing the industry, the report says. “Our Roadmap to Net Zero 2050, released in 2024, highlights the need for change across five key areas of the value chain that will put us firmly on the path to a net zero future”. SWNZ members submit data on their greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions, with an individualised report provided to each member, giving comparative data over time. In addition, based on 2023/2024 data, 127 vineyards and 30 wineries reported measuring and managing GHG emissions for their vineyard through a verified certification programme, including 30 vineyards and 12 wineries in the Toitū Carbon Zero programme. “We can see from the data that more of our members

are implementing specific initiatives to minimise their carbon footprint,” Edwin says. “Once you start measuring your emissions, you can then make informed business decisions around future changes and investment.”

The industry also has a goal of being world leaders in water use and the protection of water quality, and the report shows that 100% of wineries and 92% of vineyards are optimising their water use through conservation and reduction. There are industry guidelines offering practical ways to mitigate the already low impact of viticulture on freshwater, and NZW has been working on the pilot of a digital tool to integrate with the SWNZ programme as much as possible when Freshwater Farm Plan regulations come into place, Edwin says. “This will minimise duplication, save time and costs for grape growers.”

The momentum for sustainability measures is driven by a culture of care developed over the past 30 years, as well as growing pressure for empirical evidence of authentic environmental initiatives. According to research by IWSR in key markets for New Zealand wine, regular wine drinkers among the Gen-Z and Millennial age cohorts show higher levels of engagement with sustainability, and more willingness to pay more for ecofriendly products. The trend for authentic and sustainable products has generally increased in importance for all the markets measured, with the association particularly strong in the United Kingdom, says NZW Intel and Insights expert Richard Lee (February 2025 Winegrower Magazine). “This suggests that efforts to promote respect for the environment and sustainability related to New Zealand wine have been successful.”

That means New Zealand wine’s sustainability momentum will need to be maintained, Edwin says. “To get that share

of throat in a market where alcohol, let alone wine, is being consumed less, we need to really touch base and ensure that our offering aligns with our consumers’ values. I think our efforts in sustainability are one way to really drive that home.” Sustainability is similarly important to young people looking to grow, make or market wine in New Zealand, he adds. “They want to be part of our industry because there’s an opportunity to make a difference.”

Sustainability is also a key focus for many industry suppliers, “because that’s what their customers – our members – want”, Edwin says. “I think there is a really strong understanding across our supply chain of the importance of sustainability, and particularly in the climate change space. We are seeing innovations all the time.”

As an example, the recent launch of the Marlborough Inland Port is a major step in growing efficiencies and reducing carbon in the movement of wine from Marlborough to Port Nelson. “That’s not our members directly, but services our members rely on.” Meanwhile, New Zealand produced glass has a 70% recycled content, “the highest percentage of recycled content in worldwide glass production”, he says.

Edwin emphasises that there’s no silver bullet across any of the target areas. “It’s about trying different approaches that ensure you are making sustainable decisions across your business as much as possible. And I think the report really highlights that we are taking those small steps and positive actions across the different focus areas,” he says. “Year by year, bit by bit, our world and our wine will be better for it.”

The NZW Sustainability Report shows that 2,267 hectares of land has been contributed for biodiversity protection, restoration, or enhancement, such as planting wetlands and native trees. Photo to left, Te Kano’s planting programme is inspired by a single resplendent kōwhai. Go to page 19

98% of all vineyard area in Aotearoa New Zealand is now certified as sustainable through the SWNZ programme. More than 90% of the wine produced in New Zealand is processed in SWNZ certified facilities.

NZW Sustainability Report 2025

Toitū tracking

New Zealand grape growers and winemakers continue to make progress in emission measurement, says Emily Dekker, Toitū Technical Team Lead for the primary sector. “Including for value chain analysis, for the opportunities of lower finance risks, better market access, and security.”

“Suppliers and service providers are being asked to provide supplier-specific emission factors for wineries to transition to a low carbon supply chain.”

Emily Dekker

Toitū Envirocare is a climate and environmental certification body. Emily says businesses are increasingly asked for carbon footprint data to meet either export requirements at port of entry, or from customers. “International retailers are seeking data to measure their own value chain and meet their legislated climate-related disclosures and consumer expectations.” Recent reports suggest that retailers’ Scope 3 (supplier) emissions are generally 92 times higher than their operational emissions, which is a higher proportion than any other sector, she says. “Suppliers and service providers are being asked to provide supplier-specific emission factors for wineries to transition to a low carbon supply chain.”

Consumer demand is also a key influence. “While cost of living is now the top concern for consumers, their interest and passion towards sustainability means they want to support brands that are outwardly doing what they can to reduce their impact on the

environment,” Emily says. “Even in markets where sustainability stories are not in demand at the moment, such as the United States, there is still a drive from consumers to feel connected to the brands they purchase, and the good that these brands stand for.”

Toitū has 30 clients within the wine

industry, ranging from large manufacturers to small grape growers or wineries. Emily says the focus on communicating to the end consumer has led to increasing interest in Toitū’s product footprint certification, “which allows businesses to have the certification mark included on the bottle”. toitu.co.nz

In 2023/2024, 127 vineyards and 30 wineries reported measuring and managing GHG emissions for their vineyard through a verified certification programme.

NZW Sustainability Report 2025

Visy’s smashing success with recycled glass

New Zealand’s only glass manufacturer hit a target of 70% recycled glass in May last year. It is the first country Visy works in to achieve that goal. “New Zealand wineries, and food and beverage businesses can now claim some of the most sustainable glass packaging in the world,” says Chief Executive Mark De Wit. “Thanks to New Zealand’s green electricity grid and Visy’s high recycled content.”

Visy manufactures more than 700 million glass bottles and jars in New Zealand each year, with an average of 70%

recycled glass. A Visy glass container with 70% recycled glass can be up to 30% less greenhouse gas intensive than one made from virgin materials.

Lightweighting is another key part of Visy’s sustainable designs, says National Sales Manager Ben Rea. “Reducing the weight of a glass bottle means using less

raw material and lowering greenhouse gas emissions in every unit.” Fifteen years ago, an average wine bottle weighed more than 560 grams, he says. “Today most Visy bottles made in New Zealand are likely to be under 420g and we have progressively moved towards 360g wine bottles.”

63% of wineries are using lightweight glass bottles as one of their methods of packaging.

NZW Sustainability Report 2025

WineWorks is a certified Toitū Carbon Zero business, and has reduced its greenhouse gas emissions by 51% since 2020. The current objectives are focussed on working with Scope 3 suppliers to reduce emissions across the supply chain, says Chief Executive Peter Crowe.

Astrolabe quietly carbon cutting

Astrolabe walks the talk when it comes to authentic and sustainable wines, including Tōitu Carbon Zero certification, organic and regenerative practices on its grower blocks, BioGro certification at the family’s home vineyard, and a river restoration project with neighbouring winegrowers.

“We are trying to make the best quality wine we can because if you are not making something you really stand behind, it’s all a waste of carbon.” Arabella Waghorn

They’re less keen to talk that walk, admits winemaker Arabella Waghorn, daughter of Astrolabe founders Simon Waghorn and Jane Forrest Waghorn, preferring to do rather than discuss their sustainability measures. “We know there are people doing regen way better than us, there are people doing organics way better than us, there are people doing carbon zero better than us.” She’s also reluctant to cheer the carbon story until the certification accounts for upstream and downstream emissions, from growers to shipping. “End to end product certification is what I really want.”

Arabella and her sister Libby Levett bought into their parents’ company in 2018, and by the next year had taken Jane’s carbon reduction initiatives and run with them. “It feels like the most important issue of our time,” Arabella says. “And it’s really important to us.” The footprint of growing, fermenting, packaging and shipping wine means the industry needs to focus on reducing and offsetting emissions, while

Astrolabe is a founding sponsor of the Marlborough Book Festival, and Jane Forrest Waghorn is a regular interviewer for the annual programme. This July she will interview Damien Wilkins, winner of the Jann Medlicott Acorn Prize at the Ockham Book Awards. The festival, on from 18-20 July, pairs wonderful writing and delicious wines, thanks to longstanding support from Dog Point, Lawson’s Dry Hills and Cloudy Bay, as well as Astrolabe. marlboroughbookfest.co.nz

also delving into the potential to maximise carbon capture through vines, soils and plantings, she says.

The Covid-19 pandemic landed soon after they set their carbon neutral goal, which proved perfect timing, because difficult conversations around cutting international flights weren’t necessary with the whole country grounded. In the years since they have had to consider it more, knowing that one on hand visiting markets can be vital for small family companies with lean budgets. On the other, they’re costly for carbon and cash, and she has come across customers, “especially younger ones”, uneasy to see companies fly across the world for a tradeshow.

They also introduced electric vehicles, reduced waste, lightweighted glass, cut back tractor use, and trialled an electric bike in the vineyard. Some of the changes were tiny, akin to adjustments you’d make around your home to be more efficient, she says. “I don’t want to be out there claiming we’re changing the world, but those small things are what we all need to do.” WineWorks, which is also certified carbon neutral with Toitū, bottles and stores the wines, and the Waghorns are increasingly working with suppliers that are certified or seeking certification. They offset the emissions they can’t kick by buying carbon credits.

Astrolabe partners with 10 grower families, each with different soils, meso climates and management techniques, “based on their own personal philosophy”, including regenerative viticulture, biodynamics and organics, as well as herbicide free sites. They all live on their vineyards, and many have native planting programmes on their property.

At their home vineyard, The Farm, the Waghorn family is working on the restoration of the Opaoa Loop with neighbours Jules Taylor and Stephen Dempster, viticulturist for both Astrolabe

and Jules Taylor Wines. That’ s meant ridding the waterway of willows and other pest trees, then planting along the edge, while also running pest trapping programmes. Stephen says the previous owners of his vineyard started planted the likes of kahikatea and tōtara 20 years ago. Now, with the clearing, planting and trapping, they’re seeing kahikatea growing from seed dropped by established trees, he says, excited to watch the change in tree and bird life. Jane’s next plan is to plant a microforest, linking the creek site to The Farm.

The myriad projects all take time, money and passion, and in some cases they’re “fumbling through”, says Arabella – “trying to do our best.” And the main focus, of course, is the wine. “We are trying to make the best quality wine we can, because if you are not making something you really stand behind, it’s all a waste of carbon.”

Simon Waghorn working on the waterway restoration of the Opaoa Loop, neighbouring their home vineyard, The Farm.

Jane Forrest Waghorn of Astrolabe. Photo Jim Tannock

The sky is the limit at Felton Road

Felton Road Wines is using an electric drone sprayer to apply organic fungicides and monitor crops, cutting emissions and transforming management. Using their new P100 Pro XAG drone instead of a standard tractor, the Bannockburn vineyard has reduced reliance on diesel by 80%, says owner Nigel Greening. “Farming is tough – hot, cold, physically demanding. But technology like this makes it more attractive and sustainable. The drone runs fully electric. We charge it using our solar PV, which saves on energy costs and diesel use.”

Felton Road Wines received $20,000 co-funding for the drone through the EECA(Energy Efficiency and Conservation Authority) Technology Demonstration Fund. EECA General Manager Delivery and Partnerships, Richard Briggs, says it is great to see how innovative technology can help wineries improve efficiency and reduce energy use in their operations. “It’s a practical step toward more economic vineyard management and gives them tools that can adapt as their needs evolve.”

Nigel says the efficiency gains have been significant. The drone sprays 50-60% faster than traditional methods, covering a hectare in just 20 minutes – including after rain, when tractors need to wait for dry ground. It has a 50-litre capacity and, even with pauses for battery swaps and tank refills, consistently outpaces ground-based equipment, he says. Advanced features like terrain-following radar, adjustable nozzles, and programmable mapping optimise coverage while minimising chemical use, while infrared sensors can map crop stress and nutrient needs. Nigel says the winery is already seeing comparable results in disease

control versus traditional tractors, especially for mildew management.

As well as efficiency gains, the drone improves health and safety, avoiding the risk of tractors tipping on the steep terrain and fatigue-related accidents, while also reducing operators’ chemical exposure. Using a drone also mitigates soil compaction, preserving the ecosystem and cover crops.

The transition wasn’t without challenges – particularly around learning to operate the drone efficiently – but the team quickly adapted, benefiting from improved efficiency and biodiversity outcomes. In the future they plan to use the drone to distribute compost pellets.

Nigel says drones are more than a tool for Felton Road; they’re a glimpse of the

vineyard’s future. “The drone is one of those tools in our toolkit that we’re going to be exploring and playing with. It only does as good a job as we can teach it to do. The great thing with any piece of technology is it frees up humans and gives them time to use their strengths.”

EECA and Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand have developed a Wine Decarbonisation Programme to help wine companies reduce emissions through “clean and clever” energy use. As part of the programme, EECA has a selection of free tools, resources and case studies for the wine sector. To see those, and to watch the Felton Road drone in action, to go: eeca.govt.nz/ co-funding-and-support/products/winedecarbonisation-pathway.

56% of vineyards are implementing specific initiatives to minimise their carbon footprint.

NZW Sustainability Report 2025

A planting dream at Te Kano

An ancient kōwhai atop a craggy hill face has inspired a decade-long planting programme at Northburn Vineyard in Central Otago.

The vision is that one day people will one day look up from the edge of Lake Dunstan and see a cloak of flowering kōwhai across the schist face of the hillside and know it must be Te Kano, says estate operations manager Mark Naismith.

That’s no easy task, with the exposed and arid hillside a tough start for small trees, many of which are grown from locally sourced seed – some of it from “old man kōwhai” – and raised in propagation beds on the property. They’re clearing more than 50 hectares of invasive plant species on the 102ha property, which has 40ha of vines, in an ongoing battle to suppress the likes of rosehip. The challenges are exacerbated by pressure from pigs, deer and rabbits, and they use rabbit and deer fencing, as well as a specialist to shoot rabbits.

There are 5,000 to 6,000 trees already established, including 900 kōwhai, along with good performers like Cromwell

WINE TESTING

broom, Hall’s tōtara, ribbonwood, cabbage tree and flax. The Te Kano nursery has more than 1,500 plants growing, with 500 of them ready for plant this winter, with plans to target sheltered pockets, Mark says. It’s hard work, with plenty of failures, but driving up off the main road, he is

“immediately struck” by the corridors of green, with native bird life starting to build as well. “Imagine, in 10 years’ time we could walk into this property on a typical 35-degree Central Otago summer day, and have a selection of cool green places to seek a bit of refuge.”

2,267 hectares of land has been contributed for biodiversity protection, restoration, or enhancement, such as planting wetlands and native trees.

NZW Sustainability Report 2025

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Te Kano’s Northburn vineyard

Blenheim

Wellington

Nelson

Carbon cutting with IWCA

The further companies go on the carbon reduction journey, the steeper the climb, says Yealands Sustainability Manager Andree Piddington. Yealands was certified as Toitū Carbon Zero from the winery’s 2008 inception, and in 2020 became a member of International Wineries for Climate Action (IWCA), an association of 48 wine producing companies across 12 countries, committed to becoming net zero by 2050 across Scopes 1, 2, and 3, without the use of external offsets.

“We have to work with them to try and reduce their emission profiles, which in turn reduces ours.”

Andree Piddington

Dropping its offsetting purchases meant moving Yealands’ Toitū certification from Carbon Zero to Carbon Reduce. Since 2022 it has earmarked funds previously used for carbon credits for initiatives to reduce emissions, and on biodiversity plantings on site, which can be used for ‘insetting’. The company, which is one of eight Gold members of the IWCA, has an interim goal of emissions reductions by 2030, which meets the requirements of the United Nations Race to Zero.

With efficiencies gained through lightweighted glass, bottling a portion of wine offshore, and using both a winery and

Marlborough Lines solar array (see sidebox) to reduce fossil fuel use in the winery, they are now working with the likes of freight forwarders and glass suppliers to reduce their downstream and upstream emissions.

“We have to work with them to try and reduce their emission profiles, which in turn reduces ours,” says Andree, who recently joined the IWCA board. As suppliers and transport operators become more aware of the need for third party certified emissions reductions, that process is becoming easier. “When we first started out, it wasn’t quite like that. There’s a lot more common awareness and common goals there… it will be slow, but you’ve just got to take one step at

a time and one bite of the bloody elephant.” Felton Road, with Silver membership, is the only other New Zealand wine company in IWCA, and Andree hopes more will get on board, seeing the value of belonging to a programme with a unified vision, shared insights and experiences in reducing emissions, and knowledge on what international markets are seeking from sustainable producers. It is also a global recognised certification, based on the ISO 14,064 , she says. “Market barriers are only becoming tougher, and a lot of our customers are now recognising IWCA as a rigorous certification.” iwcawine.org

68% of wineries are implementing specific initiatives to minimise their carbon footprint.

NZW Sustainability Report 2025

Farming sunshine on Marlborough vineyards

Having solar farms in the midst of Marlborough’s wine industry could be an in-situ solution to decarbonisation.

Marlborough Lines has launched SolarFlex Commercial and is talking to several wine companies and one grape grower about the possibility of repurposing paddocks or vineyards into solar arrays between the Waihopai River and Cloudy Bay area, says Marlborough Lines Business Development Manager Mark Unwin. Each project requires a minimum of 2 hectares of flat land, but with many Marlborough vineyards due for redevelopment, some operators could see the solar array and grazing as a better investment than grapes for certain parcels of land, Mark says.

Solar photo-voltaic generation could provide a power source for a winery’s immediate needs, reducing a company’s Scope 2 emissions, while also preparing for the electrification of tractors, sprayers, water pumps and other vineyard operations, he says. Alternatively, Marlborough Lines can lease the land and sell the power back to the network, in which case wine companies can still offset some emissions through Renewable Energy Certificates (RECs), which track the generation of electricity from renewable sources like wind, solar or hydro.

“There’s a nice meeting of Marlborough Lines as a community asset, the high sunshine hours in Marlborough, and industry.”

The arrays would be installed and maintained by Marlborough Lines, which sells the power to the winery or the network. Yealands worked with Marlborough Lines on the 4,000-kilowatt Seaview Solar Farm, which has been producing power since 2024. Sustainability Manager Andree Piddington says the power supply supplements Yealands’ own rooftop array. “It means that we are buying local RECs and are not only able to use them against the winery, but also vineyard electricity. It means our Scope 2 emissions are zero in relation to power.” marlboroughlines.co.nz/energymarlborough

Waste not want not – Rose Family Estate

A state-of-the-art wastewater treatment system, inhouse upcycling of perlite and lees waste, and the spreading of grape marc and biosolids to vineyards, are just handful of the innovations rolled out at Rose Family Estate in recent years.

And every success and learning has been shared with Marlborough’s wider winemaking community, through open days and one-on-one discussions, says Chief Winemaker Nick Entwistle, who is also on Marlborough’s Circular Wine Group. “We don’t see it as a competitive advantage. If we help everybody up to reach the levels we aspire to, then the whole of the industry will be better off.”

Social responsibility is one of the pillars of Rose Family Estate’s sustainability policy, and that includes the betterment of the local community, says Nick, who entered the company in this year’s Port Marlborough – Marlborough Environment Awards, as another way of sharing insights.

Company founders Phil and Chris Rose were pioneers in the region’s wine industry, and “the second generation has that thirst

to find their pioneering opportunity”, Nick says. Leading environmental initiatives and innovations is part of that, including as one of the first companies to be certified as carbon neutral, from 2006 to 2012. The Rose family have long been committed to planting riparian areas on their vineyards, most recently on a new block near the Grovetown Lagoon, and were early adopters of green spreading of grape marc in the vineyard daily during vintage. They recently purchased equipment that selects grapes during machine harvesting, leaving stems, leaves and canes in the vineyard, thereby reducing their marc production.

In the 2024 harvest the winery diverted 50,000 litres of fermentation lees away from the landfill, by pumping perlite and lees waste into geobags – permeable plastic bags – that sit in a bund where the liquid drains. The liquid goes through the

81% of wineries have waste reduction initiatives.

NZW Sustainability Report 2025

wastewater treatment system and the dry residue is spread to the vineyard floor of specific blocks, returning 3.75 tonnes of potassium to the soil annually.

Meanwhile biosolids from wastewater settling tanks, which were historically sent to council oxidation ponds, are also separated from wastewater using geobags, with the solids combined with grape marc and returned to the vineyard, with fluid going through the treatment system before being applied to a 4-hectare effluent distribution field, diverting 130,000 litres of biosolids from the oxidation ponds each year.

Judges in the awards applauded the company ethos of continuous improvement, the ability to recognise a problem, then commit to tackling it, and “the desire to share knowledge as well as learn from others”.

Project Raumatatiki

As rain bucketed down on their Marlborough vineyard in May, Bridget Ennals and Steve Pellett pulled on gumboots and coats for a stroll around the vines. The ‘walk-in-the-rain vineyard survey’ – checking for runoff and potential contamination – is part of Project Raumatatiki, a digital tool being developed to integrate with Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand when the revised Freshwater Farm Plan regulations come into place. Bridget is project coordinator for Project Raumatatiki, and Stanley Estates is one of the 38 vineyards around the country involved in the pilot since March. Steve, who completed the plan, says he identified several risks on their vineyard, including grazing stock, waterways on the block and boundary, and the use of fertiliser. But there weren’t any surprises for the grower, who knows the 12-hectare estate rain and shine, and already mitigates those risks through permanent and grazing fencing, along with judicious timing for fertiliser. He says much of Project Raumatatiki’s freshwater guidance should be common sense for growers who know their land. “With good viticultural farming practice, one would be doing those things already… You just have to think about how you do things to meet the requirements.”

Bridget says the digital tool starts by gathering a short history of the vineyard,

Wriggle room

A new earthworm soil test is offering insights into the biological health of New Zealand vineyards.

In 2024 Hill Labs introduced New Zealand’s first earthworm environmental DNA (eDNA) soil test, using quantitative PCR to measure tiny traces of genetic material left behind as earthworms move through the soil. The molecular technology measures the abundance of the shallow-burrowing Aporrectodea caliginosa, which makes up 70-80% of the total earthworm population of New Zealand soils.

Erin McIlmurray, Hill Labs’ Market Sector Manager, Agriculture, says earthworms need healthy soil conditions to thrive, so are an important indicator of soil health. “Often referred to as the ecological engineers of soil, earthworms contribute to the aeration and cycling of nutrients in soil, as well as helping create good soil structure and breaking down

including any riparian plantings or fencing already in place. It then moves into mapping the vineyard, infrastructure and waterways, and any cultural or community sites, including special plants and spaces significant to tangata whenua or the wider community. Then come more in-depth questions about potential risks, such as nitrogen, sediment, phosphorous, and pathogens from stock grazing the vineyard, and an assessment of the risk level as low, medium or high. Stage four requires actions to mitigate the risks, with guidance given on the likes of stock management and fencing, which needs to be set back from any waterway, and also on riparian planting, such as gossamer

organic matter.”

The eDNA test was developed for pastoral soils, in collaboration with Dr Nicole Schon, an AgResearch senior scientist and leading earthworm specialist, who provided “invaluable background and guidance”, Erin says. The research team believe it has equal application in viticulture and horticulture, with calibration work underway to relate the eDNA levels to earthworm numbers in the deeper soil core used in viticulture.

Winegrowers collect soil samples as they would for a soil fertility test, with the optimum time during winter to mid spring, when earthworms are more active, and ideally the same time each year, to enable comparisons.

The test complements a visual soil

grass to contain sediment. It also explains why spraying the edge of waterways increases the risk of runoff, Bridget says. Growers can also tap into existing industry guidelines for insights. Some blocks will have very few risks that require additional mitigation, Bridget says. “It might be that you are already doing everything. But all growers will need to consider their obligations under the Freshwater Farm Plan regulations when they are released later this year.”

Find information on the pilot, including industry guidelines, the walk-in-therain-survey and explanatory webinars, at nzwine.com/members/sustainability/ SWNZ/fwfp/

assessment (VSA), Erin says. “VSAs can be labour intensive and require specialist knowledge. This test provides an easier alternative and another tool in the toolbox for monitoring soil health. The fact that it can be performed on the same sample that is taken for assessing soil fertility is a definite benefit.”

Hill Labs founder and executive director Dr Roger Hill, who has played a large role in developing the test, says it is just the beginning. “We’re dedicated to exploring the full potential of this technology across different crops and farming methods to support New Zealand’s farmers and growers.”

Our Land and Water provided funding for the initial stages of development of the eDNA test.

Hill Labs scientist Dr Sara Loeffen is one of the speakers at the Organic & Biodynamic Winegrowing Conference in Blenheim from 16-18 June, where she will be sharing research on eDNA and measuring earthworm density. organicwineconference.com

Steve Pellett takes a walk in the rain at Stanley Estates

Organic & Biodynamic Winegrowing Conference

SOPHIE PREECE

From electric drones to horse-drawn ploughs, organic winegrowers are embracing the highest tech and the oldest practices. “Our understanding of soils and plants has come a long way, and there’s a need to embrace some of the new technologies,” says viticulturist Nick Pett of this juxtaposition in vineyards around the country. “Things don’t have to be done like they were 100 years ago, but there is a time and place to use these historical learnings too.”

Such open and curious mindedness is what Nick – committee chair of the Organic & Biodynamic Winegrowing Conference on in Blenheim from 16-18 June – loves about winegrowing. After several years at organic and biodynamic producer Seresin Estate, Nick now works at Yealands, where new technology like solar panels (page 20) fits naturally alongside old-school practices, including hand ploughing one of its organic blocks this growing season.

The three-day technical conference includes expert speakers on climate change,

Deep Down a labour of love

SOPHIE PREECE

Deep Down wines deliver a “special story” from unique vineyards, says winemaker Clive Dougall, whose bespoke Marlborough wine label pays homage to organic and biodynamic fruit from exceptional sites. By making wines organically, with natural yeast and low or no additions “to smudge the story”, he stays true to the voice of those unique vineyards, says Clive, who is chair of Organic Winegrowers New Zealand. “My head and heart both say that if you can make better and more authentic wines without the use of toxic chemicals why wouldn’t you?”

The genesis of Deep Down is a London wine shop, where Clive – British-born and raised – had his first job on leaving school, and “fell in love with all there was to know about wine”. One day a winemaker came in to thank him for selling so much of his wine. “We

water ecology, biodiversity, soil health and regenerative viticulture. And it taps into the traditional and the new, from Jeremy Hyland talking biodynamics at The Wrekin, to Hill Labs scientist Dr Sara Loeffen discussing environmental DNA to measure earthworm populations (page 22). Nick’s science degree saw him extracting DNA from soils, but he can’t see himself

giving up his typical spring earthworm count. “There’s something so tangible to be able to dig up a piece of earth and count them, rather than put it in a box and send it away.” It’s likely he’ll combine the visual and eDNA assessments, using very old and very news ways to check in on soil biology. “I think there’s a place for both.” organicwineconference.com

16% of New Zealand’s wineries hold organic certification, “including many of our world-renowned producers.

NZW Sustainability Report 2025

got chatting about winemaking and something just went off in my head”, Clive says. “I knew I wanted to be a winemaker”.

Inspired by the “right of passage” of the Australian and New Zealand travellers he’d met on their ‘overseas experience’, he decided to emulate their journey and head to Australia for his first vintage, then study winemaking in Adelaide. Before he left, he met his partner Mel, a “lovely Kiwi” who was soon to return home, so adjusted his plans for love. After a harvest in the Barossa, where he was “hooked” by winery work, Clive moved to New Zealand, taking on post graduate winemaking studies at Lincoln University.

Clive began to make a name for himself as a winemaker at Seresin Estate in Marlborough, where he grew his interest in organic vineyards and low intervention wines. He was there for 12 years before

he and business partner Peter Lorimer established Deep Down in 2019, producing small lots of Marlborough Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc from special sites in the region.

“Deep Down are very lucky to buy some of the best grapes in Marlborough,” he says, using Chardonnay from The Wrekin as an example. The vines are planted on a clay hillside at the certified organic and biodynamic vineyard in Marlborough’s Southern Valleys, with viticulturist Jeremy Hyland taking great care of the vines, fruit, soils and indigenous yeasts of the block. Jeremy is one of the speakers at the Organic & Biodynamic Winegrowing Conference in Blenheim from 16-18 June. “I haven’t met another viticulturist who has such a connection to their site”, Clive says. “It’s a magical and very special place, tended by passionate people.”

Nick Pett and Jess Barnes launched their wine brand Marathon Downs five years ago, with native yeast and ultra-minimal intervention. In spring 2024 the couple planted their own small vineyard on Jess’s multigenerational family farm in the Awatere Valley, namesake for their brand, using organic practices.

A 1,000-year care package at Craggy Range

There’s no one single recipe for careful winegrowing, said Craggy Range viticulturist Jonathan Hamlet. “But it is actually ok to cherry pick all the things that work.”

At Te Muna vineyard in Wairarapa, that’s meant an organic conversion enhanced by biodynamic practices, regenerative viticulture, soft pruning, native plantings and new technologies, with positive outcomes for the soils, vines, wines and biodiversity. It’s also meeting the changing demands of markets, Jonathan told attendees at Pinot Noir New Zealand 2025, speaking during a day devoted to Kaikiakitanga, Caring for our Place.

In 25 years of winegrowing there’s been “a massive evolution” in the care taken in vineyards, he said. “From learning that dirt wasn’t dirt, it was a whole ecosystem beneath my feet, to Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand becoming a world class vineyard standard.”

Vineyard organics and biodynamics (“the icing on the cake”) has dominated his thinking for a long time. “But in recent years, we have had to think to the bigger future,” Jonathan said. “What is our footprint and how do we make that global difference? The main things I have learned in this evolution is that we always have to keep moving forward and we always have to challenge the status quo.”

Jonathan explained the care plan for Craggy Range’s Te Muna Estate Pinot Noir vineyard, with 54 blocks over 53-hectares –each one farmed and vinified individually.

Those blocks run over a series of terraces, with soils that include ancient loess from the winds, alluvial from the river, and layers of ash from volcanic eruptions. It’s a “bloody hard place to grow”, with a fairly typical growing season serving up a dozen frosts, including one in January in the 2024 harvest. Winds are another danger watch, and in Jonathan’s first year on Te Muna Road, 15ha of Pinot Noir flowers were blown off the vines in one night. “It can also be extremely dry,” he explained to attendees at the conference.

But for all its challenges, the land is beloved, including for its ability to grow Pinot Noir, and converting it to organics is a “fantastic fit”, Jonathan said. He and Craggy Range winemaker Ben Tombs “truly believe” that growing the fruit naturally, without

synthetic inputs, is the best opportunity to make wines that express the “amazing site”. Meanwhile, market gatekeepers are asking for their wines to be organic and biodynamic. “Really, the boomers are not going to live forever; this aligns with the values of our future customers.”

The owners of Craggy Range, the Peabody family, formed a trust under which Te Muna cannot be sold outside the family for 1,000 years. That shows a determination to get things right, and gives the team the time and space to cherry pick the best options for the land and wines, Jonathan said.

The biggest fundamental change at Te Muna has been under vine mowing, with no cultivation of the soil. With ample winter and spring moisture, the vines do well with some competition, and the soil structure has vastly improved. There are no problem weeds, “and winter grazing is a great tidy up”. Meanwhile, a regenerative programme includes mixed species planting of cereals, legumes, herbs and flowers, designed to improve soil structure and organic matter, as well as water holding capacity and biodiversity, while also adding to biocontrol.

In terms of care for the vines, the most positive change has been soft pruning, with more respect for the vine, creating structure to improve vigour and resilience, Jonathan said.

The results of this buffet of recipes include less trimming, more open canopies, and more dappled light into the fruit zone and, to date, good yields. The fruit has thicker skins, improving tannic properties, and slower sugar accumulation, with better aromatics. While picking at lower brix, there is better physiological ripeness, Jonathan said. The company will lean into new technologies and innovations as it expands its plantings, with automation and precision agriculture allowing them to continue to farm the area better, and with less impact. Subsurface irrigation is already a “must have” in new blocks, and is being retrofitted in existing ones.

Genetics are also in the mix, and Craggy Range is honing on massal selection to exploit the epigenetics of their vines. “We are 25 years young, but we know our vines are adapting to our environment, and we have the chance to amplify our expression of the site.”

Craggy Range vineyard cadet Annika Salenjus was the 2024 Wairarapa Young Viticulturist of the Year, taking the title for the second year running. Photographer Richard Brimer took this shot of Annika in the 2025 vintage.

One-horsepower solution

David Herd broke boundaries when he planted Marlborough’s first vineyard in 1892, surrounded by sheep and crops.

More than 130 years later, Emma Rossignol and her Clydesdale Duchess ploughed the same tiny block, with its heritage Petit Grain Muscat, mānuka posts, and original tōtara strainers, in a quiet echo of yesteryear. “You can hear the working of the soil,” says Auntsfield Estate viticulturist Ben Cowley of the machine-free hush of Duchess and Emma walking up the rows, cutting through under vine weeds like a knife through butter.

“You can hear the working of the soil.”

Ben Cowley

Emma, who launched her business Terroir & Us last year, learned to cultivate vineyards with a horse in her homeland of France, where growers are increasingly interested in the practice for its lack of emissions, lack of soil compaction, and precise and shallow slicing of weeds, using ancient techniques to meet contemporary sustainability measures.

She worked the 2025 vintage for Auntsfield, and ran an open day there in May, showing growers and viticulturists this one-horsepower Duchess solution, with her hooves the size of side plates. “The job is very detailed and very accurate and very, very good,” says Ben. “And it just makes so much sense on that block.”

The ploughing marries two of Auntsfield’s preoccupations – heritage and sustainability – and he plans to contract Emma to work in the same vines in the future, and on other

organic blocks that would benefit from the Duchess touch.

Auntsfield has just under 15 hectares of organics, including this tiny 0.2ha block, and released its first BioGro certified Sauvignon Blanc last year, finding good interest in a market where new products can be hard to find a home for. “In these times when things are a bit harder, it really shows you how important it is to have a strong brand with strong brand ideals,” Ben says. “Part of that is environmental credentials

and philosophies, which are always really important for consumers and can really set you apart.” Being a single vineyard producer, and having organics and sustainability as abiding principles, are important. And so is Auntsfield’s heritage, which the Cowley family have protected and celebrated since buying the estate in the late 1990s. “Having Emma and Dutchess here, working the vines like David Herd did 130 years ago, feels like the last step in the revival of this historic vineyard,” Ben says.

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Emma Rossignol and Duchess tending the rows David Herd and his Clydesdales worked 133 years ago.

Photo Gabriel Bertogg

A Thousand Gods

I like to think that when Simon Sharpe and Lauren Keenan heard they’d been named The Real Review Rising Star of the Year, they cried out “miladiou!”

This Occitan expression from the south of France is the inspiration for the winemaking couple’s bespoke label A Thousand Gods, a tiny project fuelled by learnings from Cahors, organic fruit from the Waihopai Valley, a garage winery in Rolleston, and a conviction for making natural wines without faults.

Lauren, Australian, and Simon, BritishKiwi, were travelling the world doing vintages when they became increasingly

“We were hoping to make a wine that stood up to what we were used to. When we got here, we realised the potential was massive.”

Simon Sharpe

throwing stuff against the wall and seeing if it stuck,” Lauren says. “It was an incredibly steep learning curve.” Their success has stemmed from seeing the magic and mistakes made by others, Simon adds. “You have to come in with really strong rigour.”

Their A Thousand Gods plan was born in France six years ago, when they decided to move back to New Zealand, so their young son could be closer to his grandparents. That meant finding organic fruit from afar for the 2019 vintage, with only a few distant contacts to call on in New Zealand. One of them was Sam Weaver, founder of Churton, who they knew was doing something different in his family’s Marlborough vineyard, with close plantings, organic certification and biodynamic practices. But it wasn’t until Simon flew down for vintage that he realised how exceptional the fruit

was. “It was serendipity”, he says. “We were hoping to make a wine that stood up to what we were used to. When we got here, we realised the potential was massive.”

Six years on, they are balancing parenting and day jobs with A Thousand Gods, based in a small winery beneath their Rolleston apartment, and getting plenty of attention from the likes of Viva Magazine (New Zealand’s Best New Winery 2023; Top 10 Most Exciting Wineries of New Zealand 2024) and now The Real Review.

Natural wines can be a hard sell in the relatively conservative wine culture of New Zealand, which makes the couple even more determined to ensure every wine is clean and fault free. But, having seen the routes to failure, and to success, they have learnt to mitigate the added risks in making wine without sulphur. “It’s just a different

Simon Sharpe and Lauren Keenan

Invivo Veritas

Taking

a path less trodden

STEPHANIE MCINTYRE

Invivo is a story of audacious innovations and partnerships, from a branded airplane and stadium blending to enduring celebrity connections.

The wine brand was founded in 2008 by marketer Tim Lightbourne and winemaker Rob Cameron, old school friends living in the United Kingdom, who saw a gap in the market for delicious and unpretentious wine from their homeland, “100% bullshit free”.

“There is nowhere better on the planet that makes wine, that tastes like it does, than Marlborough. We don’t celebrate that enough. We don’t tell that story enough.”

Rob Cameron

Seventeen years on, with celebrity heavyweights Graham Norton and Sarah Jessica Parker in their corner, Tim and Rob’s enthusiasm for New Zealand wine, in particular Sauvignon Blanc, remains steadfast. “You cannot deny that Marlborough is the Champagne of Sauvignon Blanc,” says Rob. “There is nowhere better on the planet that makes wine, that tastes like it does, than Marlborough. We don’t celebrate that enough. We don’t tell that story enough.”

In the beginning, they followed a traditional path, but wine trade shows didn’t work for Invivo. “We were just doing what everyone else was doing,” Tim says. “We quickly realised that our strength was in relationship building, collaborations and partnerships.” Invivo moved away from “hosted tastings at countless retailers” and instead got involved in the music and arts scene, aligning with innovators and thought leaders.

The approach was simple: “To connect with people and make great wine”. It seems fitting therefore, that Invivo chose crowdfunding to expand its business. The

only New Zealand wine company to use this approach to raising funds, Invivo became the largest crowdfunded company in the Southern Hemisphere. In its first foray, 20% of the company was made public, with a $2 million investment by 439 new shareholders. Today, Invivo has more than 800 shareholders accumulated through three crowdfunding campaigns.

‘Going public’ turned Tim and Rob’s vision of having more direct control of their company into a reality. They promptly secured vineyard lease agreements and purchased a winemaking facility in Waikato’s Te Kauwhata, moving in in 2016. “Our winery was once home to Romeo Bragato, where he was based and did his research,” Rob says. “We love that Invivo now resides where Romeo wrote the blueprint for grape growing in New Zealand.” When Invivo moved into their new ‘old’ facility, there was capacity for fermenting about 180,000 litres of wine. The company has since expanded production closer to 3.5 million litres, and now manages its own bottling and packaging on site.

They haven’t been immune to the challenges of the wine industry, say Invivo’s founders. “The last couple of years have been difficult, but we’ve continued to look at things through a different lens and have

worked hard to leverage our partnerships.”

That different lens has seen them fly “Cloud Wine”, the Invivo Air experience, protest port closures, and launch the He Devil non fungible tokens, among myriad other attention-grabbing concepts.

Comedian Graham Norton and actress Sarah Jessica Parker entered the fray in 2014 and 2019 respectively, as unique wine partners in the production of their eponymous wines. Covid made collaborative winemaking tricky, but Invivo was no stranger to creative marketing and Kiwi ingenuity. Blending sessions were held for all the 2021 wines with the aid of video conferencing – Graham taking the assemblage process to another level on the big screen at Auckland’s Eden Park stadium. Celebrity alignments come in all shapes and sizes, but Invivo’s approach appears to have strengthened their brand authentically.

“It’s long known that the UK consumer palate is different to the US consumer,” says Rob. “This is the beauty of our partnerships and the blending we do with Graham and SJ.”

Within its portfolio, Invivo crafts three Marlborough Sauvignon Blancs: Invivo, Graham Norton and Invivo X, SJP. “We love the fact that we have Graham and SJ to steer the blending process,” says Rob.

Graham Norton was awarded the title of Official Marlborough Grape Ambassador on his visit to the region during the 2025 harvest. “It’s incredible to think that what began as a small, limited-edition run of GN New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc has grown into a global brand,” the talk show celebrity and writer said on his visit. “Now, here we are harvesting grapes in Marlborough for our twelfth vintage! I don’t just put my name to the wines –I’m involved in the process, which makes being here in this stunning region for harvest all the more special.”

Photo left, Graham with Invivo founders Tim Lightbourne and Rob Cameron

Tim Lightbourne and winemaker Rob Cameron with Cloud Wine

“I produce base wines that will hopefully lend themselves to their styles. Graham doesn’t want a tropical fruit bomb. He wants freshness and crispness.”

The UK consumer remains nostalgic for their first experience with Kiwi Sauvignon, he says. “It’s that zinginess, racy lime green that they relate to still.” Sarah Jessica Parker, on the other hand, was more familiar with Chardonnay than Sauvignon Blanc at the time of meeting Tim and Rob. This prompted an alternative approach to Invivo X, SJP. “It’s completely different with SJ,” says Rob. “Sauvignon is very versatile, so we talked about taking some aspects of Chardonnay and adding them to Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. We started off with that basic premise, that we would be more on the tropical side, it’d be a little softer and really textural, and we do use oak in there as well.”

Invivo Sauvignon Blanc is the result of Rob’s global winemaking experience, having worked in Moldova, Cyprus, Bulgaria and Hungary through to France, Spain and Italy. “It’s our style,” says Rob. “It is very textural, lots of lees stirring, super tropical, really aromatic.” There are clear differences in the three wines, Tim says. “That’s the beauty of Sauvignon Blanc – it expresses itself in so

many ways.”

There is still much enthusiasm and opportunity for New Zealand wine, he adds. “We were in Dallas recently, visiting a buyer. It’s winter in Dallas only four days of the year – Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is perfect for this place. They were excited for our wine, excited to see more of it come in. New Zealand is under-indexing in the state of Texas.”

“Look around your backyard [Marlborough],” Rob says. “You live in a monoculture for a reason, because people want it.” He recalls “being in awe” when visiting the region as a young winemaker. “It was like meeting your childhood heroes; meeting the winemakers and tasting their wines. And there was so much passion, and innovation, and excitement. And we’ve lost a bit of that. We need to get it back.” Wine

Better Biology Better Wine

Winemaker a Living Cultural Treasure

Pioneering Marlborough photographer and winemaker Kevin Judd has been named the 2025 Marlborough Living Cultural Treasure. Kevin has forged concurrent careers in wine and photography for the past 40 years, with the two passions frequently overlapping thanks to extraordinary images that capture the grapes, vines, vineyards and wine landscapes the winemaker is so familiar with.

Kevin was born in England and grew up in Australia, where he studied winemaking at Roseworthy College and first made wine at Reynella in South Australia. He moved to New Zealand in 1983 and joined Selaks Wines, before becoming founding winemaker at Cloudy Bay, where he stayed for 25 vintages. In 2009 he established his own label, Greywacke. Alongside his stellar winemaking career, Kevin developed a parallel reputation in photography, and for more than three decades his evocative images have appeared in countless publications worldwide, including The Colour of Wine (1999), and The Landscape of New Zealand Wine (2009).

He says his interest in photography has evolved during his years in Marlborough, “initially focusing on the spectacular vineyard landscapes and more recently on the stunning natural beauty of Marlborough’s mountains, the dramatic coastal terrain and the precious bird life that inhabits it”. Kevin and his wife Kimberley live in the Omaka Valley, overlooking the picturesque vineyards that provide inspiration for both his passions.

IT WOULD BE STINK IF THESE GOT INTO NEW ZEALAND

The brown marmorated stink bug is a pest that infests homes, ruins gardens, stinks when crushed, and is almost impossible to get rid of. It could also destroy our fruit and vegetable industries. It’s not in New Zealand yet, and we want to keep it that way. So if you see one, don’t kill it. Catch it, take a photo, and call us on 0800 80 99 66.

For more information (including how to identify the bug) visit biosecurity.govt.nz/stinkbug

Photo by Kevin Judd

Moutere Magic

Evolving legacy at Neudorf

EMMA JENKINS MW

Nestled in the verdant hills of Upper Moutere, is one of New Zealand’s pioneering wineries. Founded in 1978 by Tim and Judy Finn, Neudorf Vineyards has long helped define what great Nelson wine looks like, gaining particular attention for its worldclass Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. These days, a new generation is carrying the torch forward, gently evolving the estate without losing sight of the foundations Neudorf was built on: authenticity, and deep respect for people and place.

“From the start, Dad was drawn to the idea of dry farming, and clay made that possible. He was an early believer in climate change, so soil resilience mattered.”

Rosie Finn

Tim and Judy started out as a research scientist and budding journalist respectively, but wine soon called. Working in the Waikato as an animal behaviouralist for Ruakura Agricultural Research Centre, in the burgeoning field of dairy, Tim was increasingly interested in research being carried out in soil science and wine at the nearby Te Kauwhata Viticultural Research Station, and managed to convince Judy that wine might be their future.

Moving to Nelson in 1976, their search led them to the Moutere Hills, an area characterised by plenty of sunshine and deep clay gravel soils, where they bought an ex-commune called ‘Farmagusta’. Tim milled a couple of big macrocarpa trees to create a winery from a 120-year-old stable on the property, built a grafting machine and they got planting. Recognising the potential of the local terroir, they planted a spread of varieties to determine which would thrive best. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Riesling and Pinot Gris emerged as as the consistent performers, and these remain the backbone of Neudorf today.

The early days were marked by challenges, Judy says. “Four mortgages and three jobs

each. The old house had electricity in two rooms, an outside long drop, an inefficient wood stove and no hot water.” There was also the need to understand the nuances of viticulture in an uncharted region, the Seifrieds being their only fellow vignerons for quite some time. The Finns’ dedication paid off, and by the early 1990s, Neudorf was making its mark with wines of impressive quality and character.

In 2016, Rosie Finn, Tim and Judy’s daughter, returned to Neudorf having lived in London after graduating from her design and photography studies. “Honestly, what brought me back was Brexit,” she laughs. “I was living a great life in London, right in the thick of the wine world, but couldn’t extend my visa. The plan was to come home for a summer, maybe head to Auckland after that… But once I was back in the business, I was hooked.” Her preparation? “Minimal – just a one-way ticket from London to Upper Moutere.” Eight years on, she and Winemaker and General Manager Todd Stevens have firmly taken the reins of Neudorf, allowing Tim and Judy to step back into roles as sounding boards and strategic oversight, giving them more time in their gardens and kitchen.

Todd, who moved to Neudorf in 2012, after seven years in Central Otago at Quartz Reef and Felton Road, brings a wealth of experience and a hands-off winemaking approach to the cellar. “I’ve been lucky to learn from Rudi [Bauer], Blair [Walter], and Tim - it’s given me a solid foundation in what Neudorf is about,” he says. “But time in the seat matters, too. You start to read the sites and the seasons more intuitively.”

Rosie and Todd have become a formidable duo. “Hopefully I bring a bit of energy and a fresh set of eyes,” Rosie says. “I’m really

proud of what Tim and Jude built, so I try to respect that legacy. I probably bring some extra sass, and I’m handy on the backend of the website or when the phones go down – the token millennial.” Todd is like “an overachieving, intelligent big brother I’m always trying to keep up with,” she says. “He’s humble, strategic, brilliant with business, and has a cunningly great sense of humour. He’s obviously a great winemaker and a vital part of the fabric here, and I’m so grateful Tim and Jude offered him the job.” Todd is quick to credit Rosie’s influence. “She has an ease in the way she connects with people and the market… she reads the room well. As a result, she’s a fantastic brand ambassador – she understands the intrinsic drivers of Neudorf. Her youthful approach has kept us current too, which is very important. She’s had an amazing impact on the brand since she has come into the business.”

Together, they’ve made key structural decisions, including a significant reshaping of the wine range. “That was one of the big early moves Todd and I made,” Rosie says. “I’m really proud of how it’s shaped up. It gives clarity, honours our single vineyards, and reflects each wine’s nuance. It feels settled. Hopefully it holds for the long haul.”

Neudorf’s winemaking philosophy remains one of minimal intervention, but with a pragmatic mindset. “We farm organically, use wild ferments, natural malo if it happens, and we don’t fine,” says Todd. “But we’ll lend a hand when the season calls for it. The amphorae have been a great addition, and we’ll expand that. We’re always up for thoughtful experimentation.”

Sustainability has long been at the heart of Neudorf’s approach. “We committed fully to organics in 2014 and were certified

across all estate vineyards by 2016,” says Todd. “Our viticulturist, Stefan Brockley – a staunch organic grower – is now shifting focus toward regenerative practices like cover cropping, biochar, composting, and low/no-till. We’re working with the soil, not against it.”

Carbon mapping is another area of focus. “We started measuring in 2019 with Ekos, then transitioned to the IWCA (International Wineries for Climate Action) tool in-house. It’s not audited, so we don’t make carbon claims, but it informs decisions, like moving to lightweight bottles and investing in solar. We’re also researching drone spraying – still early days there.”

The 20 hectares of vineyards are split across Home Block and Rosie’s Block. “Rosie’s sits higher (80m versus 50m) and has sandier loam soils, while Home Block has more clay,” explains Todd. “Winemaking is consistent across both, so the site speaks. Home Block tends to have a beautiful complex power to it; Rosie’s has an elegant balletic quality.”

Rosie adds, “There’s a quiet power that clay gives, and we see that in both sites.” Dry farming is reserved for older vines;

newer blocks are irrigated as needed. Some of Neudorf’s original 1978 Chardonnay vines are among the oldest in the South Island, lending gravitas and complexity to the wines.

Chardonnay makes up about 45% of the vineyard area, Pinot Noir 30%, with the remainder in aromatic whites. Albariño, a relatively new addition, is quickly becoming a fan (and winemaker) favourite. “We have 1.25ha of Albariño… it’s still small, but demand’s growing, and we’d like to plant more,” Todd says. Any other varieties planned? “Nothing official yet, though the

team is quietly hunting for the ‘next red’ that suits our soils and climate.”

Rosie reflects on her parents’ original vision: “From the start, Dad was drawn to the idea of dry farming, and clay made that possible. He was an early believer in climate change, so soil resilience mattered. Tim and Jude weren’t from Nelson originally; they just fell for the soils and never left.”

More than four decades in, Neudorf remains one of New Zealand’s benchmark producers, happily evolving with the next generation whose feet are firmly grounded in the soil that started it all.

Todd Stevens and Rosie Finn

Growing Legacy

Thirty-six years after Dave and Chris Macdonald followed a vineyard dream to Marlborough, and 28 years after they named a wine label for their children Blair and Deni, the family is devoted to Bladen, says DENI HOPKINS.

Mum and Dad bought their bony, empty patch of dirt on Conders Bend Road back in 1989, when my big brother was just 18 months old – still in nappies and already supervising. True-blue Wellingtonians, they were like many 30-somethings in the 1980s – dreaming big, armed with nothing but a wine-fuelled vision, stubborn optimism and a questionable understanding of rural living.

What happened between then and my grand entrance? A lot of blisters and a heroic amount of hope – not to mention the occasional heated debate over whether to plant Pinot Noir or stick with something “less temperamental”. But by the time the long, golden evenings of January 1993 rolled around, so did I, four years before the first Bladen bottling in 1997, and five years before the cellar door opened in 1998.

The road I grew up on was once a grazing platter for childhood imagination; pine forests to get lost in, sweet stone fruit

orchards for snacking, garlic fields that doubled as race tracks, and just enough farm animals to keep things interesting (but thankfully, given our name, not so many that our ragtag crew of pigs, hens and turkeys turned us into the local chapter of Old MacDonald’s Farm). I remember our eruptions of laughter when we would chat to the turkeys and the entire flock would gobble back at us.

“What’s a family business without a few unexpected plot twists?”

Deni Hopkins

Of course, the chaos was only heightened by Dad’s complete lack of ‘farm-safe’ awareness out in the vineyard – usually right before Mum and my slightly more sensible (read: terrified) big brother Blair would jump in to tell us off for being silly. And all the while, we watched as the region slowly stitched itself into a patchwork quilt of vineyards, row by row, bottle by bottle. I think when you don’t just grow up around an industry, but grow up with it – side by side as it takes shape – it can be hard to truly see its magic. The wonder becomes woven into the everyday. Blair and I didn’t watch from the sidelines as Mum and Dad found their place in the wine world – we lived it, almost without noticing. From the kitchen counter over

breakfast before school, we’d listen as their plans were made over coffee. The dining table, which doubled as a desk, would need to be strategically cleared of accounts before we set it for dinner at the end of financial year. And the home office would quietly come back to life with the soft tapping of keys after we’d been tucked into bed, as the dream kept growing.

Growing up like this meant we were front row for it all – not just the joy of the great days, but the tension of the hard ones too. We saw the quiet pride that came with a good vintage, the laughter shared over a successful harvest, and the clinking of glasses when things went right. But we also felt the weight of the late frosts, the long dry summers, the sleepless nights before bank meetings or big decisions. The stress didn’t always knock – sometimes it just slipped in with the evening breeze. But even in those moments of uncertainty, there was a strange kind of comfort in watching our parents navigate it all with grit, grace and more than a few deep breaths.

Eventually Blair and I each reached our first major life choice – should we get involved in the family business, or boldly forge our own paths? Naturally, and in our own time, we both did what every parent dreams of... we went and studied the arts. Blair ventured into music and I headed into photography – two famously stable and highly lucrative career choices, obviously. But hey, creativity runs in the family and while we might have started off in different

Blair Macdonald and Deni Hopkins

directions, it turns out that growing up among vines, late-night spreadsheets and harvest dust has a way of sticking with you, whether you plan for it or not.

For Blair, somewhere between too many sunshine hours lost to windowless studio sessions and falling head over heels for his dream girl, the call back to the soils of Marlborough grew louder. The idea of creating something lasting – of building their own wee family, rooted in the same land that raised us – started to feel less like a detour and more like coming home.

I came back for a wedding in early 2020, after spending most of my 20s based in Dubai, photographing portraits across the Middle East. Then a global pandemic kept me here far longer than planned. Strangely, it was during that extended stay that the things I rolled my eyes at as a teenager became the very things I realised I’d been yearning for. Isn’t it wicked how age makes us so... boring? Although, to be fair, falling for a handsome Marlborough man may have had something to do with it too.

Blair had joined Mum and Dad in 2018, with discussions of how to take Bladen into its next chapter. Just as they started to find their groove, that sweet spot of synergy,

along came me and our wee mate Covid, all in one go. Naturally, that meant tossing the new plan out the window and starting all over again, because what’s a family business without a few unexpected plot twists?

Let me tell you, it’s weird entering an industry you grew up in. So many familiar faces, so much that hasn’t changed; and yet somehow, absolutely nothing feels the same. There’s this strange balancing act of trying to find your independence while making every decision with a family business at its core. And don’t even get me started on the daily dance: do I say, ‘I’ll talk to Mum and Dad’ or go with the more professional, ‘Let me run that by the boss’? Now, five years

down the track, we’ve definitely found our rhythm. There’s a strong understanding and a solid dynamic, mainly because we very quickly learned that we’re best when we stick to our own lanes.

It wasn’t all smooth sailing, of course. Like any family business, there were plenty of growing pains – miscommunications, crossed wires, the occasional sibling eye-roll and more than a few passionate debates over everything from pruning styles to email fonts. But beneath it all was a shared love for what we were building together and a deep respect for the parts each of us play. Mum and Dad are still proudly at the helm. But every day we’re encouraged

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Dave Macdonald does laundry on the new vineyard

and supported to take Bladen in our own direction - even when it stretches their comfort zones.

Big brother B? He loves and cares for the vineyard like it’s part of the family –because it is. His eldest son, Pat, lovingly calls it “Dad’s garden” (though I do like to remind him it’s Aunty Awesome’s garden too). And honestly, there’s something truly magical about watching Blair and Sarah’s beautiful, wild sons run through a place that was once just a dream for Mum and Dad in their early 30s. If that’s not the definition of heritage, I don’t know what is.

As I write this, 36 years on from when Mum and Dad arrived in Marlborough, our 2025 vintage wines are tucked away soundly in the winery. It may be a vintage that enters a very different market, as the world continues to shift and reshape. But if there’s one thing we can count on, it’s that change always brings a fresh creative breeze with it.

Maybe it’s the fact I’m writing this at almost 4 o’clock in the morning while my husband George sleeps beside me... or that I’m 40 weeks pregnant and have already

bravery and boldness of our parents. And

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Blair Macdonald had a young start in viticulture at Bladen

WINE MAK I NG SOLU TION S

Haere Mai Matariki

With the stars of Matariki to rise in June, JEFF SINNOTT, a member of the Tuku Māori Winemakers Collective, looks at their relevance to our grape and wine community.

Matariki is the celebration of the Māori new year. Māori observed the seasonal rhythm using a lunar calendar by observing different celestial bodies as they traversed the sky. Located in the broader constellation of Taurus, Matariki was known to the ancient Greeks as Pleiades, to the Japanese as Subaru, and in ancient Sanskrit as Krttikā – which literally means to cut or bisect the year. So you could say that conceptually Matariki is as old as human civilisation itself.

Each of these cultures, and many besides, observed that the cluster rising on the horizon marked a distinct change in the seasons. In the southern hemisphere, and to Māori in particular, it represents the beginning of a new year, a time for whānau, hapū and iwi to reflect and give thanks for the bounties of the previous harvest season. It is also a time to say farewell to members of the community that have passed since Matariki last rose. Today we give thanks as we assemble in groups at dawn, give karakia, waiata and hautapu, where we offer food from each of the earthly realms to serve as sustenance for our tipuna as they journey back to Matariki and their place among the stars.

The constellation itself is made up of nine stars each representing a different role in

our environment.

Waitī watches over our freshwater environments – our awa (rivers), roto (lakes), kūkūwai (wetlands), and waipuna (springs), to name just a few. Waitī is relevant to New Zealand’s wine industry, and our work with Project RaumatatikiFreshwater Farm Planning for Viticulture. Waitā surveys our vast oceans and the variety of life in these waters. Waitā is relevant to us in our efforts to promote biodiversity in our taio (environment).

Waipuna-ā-rangi welcomes the winter sky waters in all their forms, including ua (rain), ua nganga (hail) and hukarere (snow). She sees how these waters contribute to the healthy cycle of our earth. Waipuna-ā-rangi encourages us to reflect about climate change, and guides us on our path towards Net Zero by 2050.

Tupu-ā-nuku has a special interest in our edible plants. In watching the preparations for their growth and harvest, she has come to understand the importance of healthy soil. Tupu-ā-nuku encourages us to consider more carefully what we are putting into Papatūānuku (the earth), and in what quantities. You could consider Tupu-ā-Nuku as the guardian of grapes and vineyards.

Tupu-ā-rangi has long looked out for the ngahere (forests), our native wildlife – manu (birds and bats), mokomoko (lizards), and ngārara (bugs). Tupu-ā-rangi encourages us to take action to help to preserve our forest environment by exercising the principles of biosecurity.

Ururangi is close friends with te whānau puhi (the wind family), including Hauraro (the north wind), Tonga (the south wind), Hauāuru (the west wind) and Marangai (the east wind). Ururangi provides us with our most powerful tool in plant protection – air flow.

Pōhutukawa holds tight to our memories of treasured people who have passed on. She encourages us to take time to remember them, and to acknowledge their impact on our lives – especially those who have passed in the last year.

Hiwai-i-te-rangi is a wishing star, who helps us to recognise our hopes, dreams and aspirations for the coming year. She encourages us to hold firm to our goals, and seek out opportunities to see them realised. We could all do with the guidance of Hiwaii-te-rangi in the current geopolitical climate. Matariki is the mother of them all. She loves to gather the people together, and to connect them with our environment. She encourages us to do the same, as often as possible.

So maybe this year, as we celebrate Matariki and all it represents, take the time to reflect on the deeper meaning of our role in this community and how we can work together to create a more more sustainable, respectful and meaningful year ahead.

The Matariki public holiday is based on the winter rising of the Matariki cluster in the early morning sky during the Tangaroa period of the lunar month of June. In 2025 the Tangaroa period is June 19-22 and the public holiday is Friday 20 June.

Waitī watches over our freshwater environments. Photo Grove Mill

Changing Climate

A taste of the future

SOPHIE PREECE

A high-resolution vineyard view of ecoclimatic indicators, and how they impact wine quality, can turn “climate insights into strategy”, says climate risk specialist Pete Taylor. “Whether you’re a grower, winemaker, or industry leader, understanding the future is key to staying ahead.”

By day Pete Taylor works in the finance industry, developing climate risk models across myriad sectors. But a passion for wine has him homing in on viticulture in his business Auxein, launched this year to help the wine industry move to a “sustainable and resilient future”.

Alongside climate risk and carbon management consultancy, Pete has developed vineyard specific models and datasets related to climate for every vineyard in New Zealand, with a modelled climate projection out to 2100. “These datasets include vineyard-specific attributes to ensure results are tailored to the producer.” Earlier this year, he completed a free pilot study for North Canterbury Winegrowers, highlighting projected shifts in climate indices, with growing season warmth increasing and frost risk declining. “The data suggests significantly earlier flowering, veraison, and harvest dates, changing how grapes ripen, will impact quality in many ways.”

Matt Barbour, Chair of North Canterbury Winegrowers, says the report will be “extremely valuable” for anyone in the winegrowing business, “and for those looking to invest in the future”. It has the potential to influence varieties planted and growth stages over the growing season, Matt says. “The more information you can supply the better, as his model works with so many variables it is mind blowing.”

In 2023 and 2024 Pete studied for his master’s degree in wine and viticulture at Lincoln University, where his research project, supervised by Dr Amber Parker, looked at the impacts of climate on Pinot Noir wine quality, at a single vineyard scale. Previous studies modelled the impact of climate, including temperature, on wine

quality. “However, these approaches are limited to regional resolution, with a single climate dataset applied to all vineyards.”

They built a climate record for Pinot Noir vineyards for the 2015 to 2022 vintages, then used the record to simulate phenological timing of flowering, veraison, and ripening, and to determine the influence of frosts, hot days, stress days, and diurnal temperature range on Pinot Noir quality. “Both an increasing incidence of hot days and increasing diurnal temperature ranges between both flowering and veraison and veraison to ripening were positively and significantly related to Pinot Noir quality,” Pete says. The research and modelling approach is being scaled up to include temperature, precipitation, global radiation, and other climatic variables, with

outputs including a full climate history and (modelled) projected climate for every single vineyard block in New Zealand, “with endless potential applications”, he adds. The research will be published later this year.

Amber says the work is exciting for researchers and industry as it interfaces different types of dataset (climate, GIS, wine scores) and models (phenology, climate projections) to generate a deeper understanding of future climate risks for Pinot Noir at the single vineyard level. “The approach and platform that Peter has established could easily be extended to other varieties and vineyard. It also has the potential for constant refinement as models and data continue to develop and improve.”

Impacts of changing rainfall

Dr Amber Parker has used an ecoclimatic indicator approach to plan for changing rainfall levels in New Zealand’s key winegrowing regions, as a result of climate change. The work looks at rainfall between phenological stages, with key cultivar-regional combinations – Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, Central Otago Pinot Noir and Hawke’s Bay Merlot. For all combinations, precipitation increased between budburst and flowering. Flowering to veraision and veraison to target sugar concentration saw projected decreases in rainfall, but the magnitude varied by region-variety combination, with the greatest increases and decreases projected for Central Otago Pinot Noir, Amber says. “The work has highlighted the need to go beyond calendar projections for future climate scenarios, through using ecoclimatic indicator approaches.” Amber will present the findings at GiESCO (Group of International Experts for Cooperation on Vitivinicultural Systems) in Germany in July.

Amber and fellow researchers received funding through the Ministry of Business, Innovation and Employment’s Deep South National Science Challenge project, ‘Climate, water and wine’.

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Mastering Wine

Emma Jenkins’ MW Musings

An article caught my eye recently, claiming that millennials are increasingly turning to handmade, artisanal products. It argued this wasn’t just a fleeting fad, but “a profound movement that is reshaping consumer behaviour and values.” The piece was largely speculative, but as anyone watching declining global wine consumption knows, crystal ball-gazing millennial and their generational neighbours Gen Z’s behaviour is an extremely popular pastime.

So why are handmade objects so appealing? In a world increasingly shaped by automation, efficiency, and mass production, their value might seem nostalgic or even obsolete. But handmade items represent intentionality – the use of skill, attention and time. They resist mass manufacturing’s disposable culture, and remind us that objects can be valued for their stories as much as their functions. There can be a moral and ethical dimension – an alternative to the cheap labour and environmental harm too often linked to factory lines and global supply chains. Aesthetically, handmade things bear the mark of their makers, slight imperfections and variations valued as character, not flaws. At a deeper level, making things by hand is a reminder of a slower pace of life and more intentional use of time. Of course, not every toothbrush or traffic cone needs the human touch, and handmade items tend to command premiums that not everyone can or wants to pay. But philosophically, they matter because they reconnect us to ourselves, to others, and to the world.

This seems like a promising avenue for wine, layered as it is with cultural, ethical, aesthetic and existential meanings. Wine is a process as much as it is a product. Transforming grapes into wine is not just a series of mechanical steps, it’s about choices, instincts and care. When done with intention, it justifies why we can say things like, “wine is more than just a drink”, with straight faces.

Wine can (should) carry the mark of its maker. Within the same vineyard, two winemakers can produce dramatically different expressions, depending on their philosophy and decisions. Mass produced, or so-called ‘industrial’ wine, is often

criticised for stripping out identity and sense of place in pursuit of consistency, efficiency and scale. From an ethical and sustainability standpoint, such wines are less likely to emerge from vineyards prioritising biodiversity, regenerative farming or longterm ecological and social stewardship. It’s harder for consumers to make lasting relationships with producer or place. By contrast, ‘handmade’ wines are more likely to promote reflective engagement with what’s in the glass, and invite mindfulness –drinking perhaps less, but certainly better.

New Zealand wine is well-positioned to benefit from this growing appreciation for the handmade. Our inherently small-scale production, strong sustainability platform and relationship with the land means many producers already align with the values this new generation of consumer deeply values. Telling stories that convey the intersection

of place and person, nature and culture, time and intention should be central to how we communicate, with the caveat that this must be always be grounded in authenticity.

Of course, many people, millennial or not, just want wine that tastes good, is affordable, and gets the job done. That’s totally valid. Life is busy, and sometimes we just want something to drink, without having to think too deeply about how it was made or by whom. Yet people still respond to the handmade, even if only unconsciously. They remember the bottle from the tiny winery they visited on holiday, or the one they shared on a special occasion. They might not talk about a tasting note, but they remember how a wine feels, and the difference between something made, and something manufactured. Once that connection is made, it’s hard to forget. The seed has been planted.

Vinous white wine report

Masters of Wine Steve Smith, of Pyramid Valley, and Sophie Parker-Thomson, of Blank Canvas wines, say the latest Vinous white wine report by Master of Wine Rebecca Gibb highlights the exceptional quality emerging from New Zealand’s single-vineyard whites. “It’s incredibly rewarding to see the commitment to quality and site expression of the producers recognised in Rebecca’s report,” says Steve. “It’s also worth mentioning that nine of the top twelve wines are members of the New Zealand Fine Wine Story group – a collective created to increase the global recognition of New Zealand as a producer of some of the finest wines in the world.” Eleven of the top 12 wines hailed from the South Island. Sophie says the growing recognition for New Zealand’s fine whites reflects a “very exciting evolution for our industry”. The recognition further establishes New Zealand’s growing global reputation for producing wines of distinct character, authenticity, and world-class quality, “and signals a bright future for the country’s fine white wine movement”.

Albariño Brothers

EMMA JENKINS MW

A collaboration between three friends is helping propel one of New Zealand’s most promising alternative varieties further into the limelight. Launched in 2024, Albariño Brothers is a collaboration between Ollie Powrie, Shaye Bird and Ant Saunders, whose careers span viticulture, winemaking, sales, production and export expertise. They all love the native Galician variety that’s settled so well into New Zealand’s wine landscape.

A moderate climate, proximity to the sea and regular rainfall make Albariño feel quite at home in New Zealand, and its hardiness – notably its resilience to damp conditions – appeals to winemakers managing ever-more unpredictable weather patterns. Just 75 hectares are currently planted across the winegrowing regions, predominantly in Gisborne, Hawke’s Bay and Marlborough, but it’s enjoyed steady growth since the first commercial bottling in 2011. Albariño’s zesty bright aromatics,

crisp, dry, slightly briny palate and affinity for seafood give it a familiar feel for local wine lovers looking to branch out into something new.

“The concept was to champion the variety as much as possible, and help build its story,” explains Ollie, noting that despite its relatively short history in New Zealand, both makers and drinkers seem to have come to grips with Albariño quickly. “It’s immediately delicious, with lots of freshness but also carries a nice texture. This seems to give it broad appeal.”

Ollie’s interest in the variety was sparked when he was working for Villa Maria, which planted the first Albariño in Hawke’s Bay, and via renowned Gisborne growers

Doug and Delwyn Bell, who were the first to plant it in Australasia. Albariño Brothers’ three wines include a wild ferment Hawke’s Bay iteration, and two Gisborne wines, one of which is sourced from Doug Bell’s original plantings. They’ve doubled production between the inaugural vintage and 2025, and have a sparkling Hawke’s Bay version in the bottle, due for release later this year.

With wines well received in both retail and the on-trade, Ollie is heartened that website sales include people ordering a mix of the three wines, exploring what the grape can offer. “The dream was that people would pour a glass and love it, and so far, that’s come to fruition.”

The Albariño Brothers

Sustainability Update

Demonstrating our commitment to the future through climate change mitigation

Dr Edwin Massey

Sustainability Report highlights industry progress

The New Zealand Winegrowers Sustainability Report 2025 takes the pulse of the industry’s progress with sustainability. Released in April, three years on from the inaugural report in 2022, it highlights the positive actions members are taking to leave our industry, our world and our wine in a better place. This report has been crucial for highlighting our commitment to sustainability across a range of key export markets. The media release accompanying the report was picked up in influential publications in Australia, Canada and the United States. All these publications particularly focused on the increased efforts our members were making to respond to challenges such as protecting freshwater resources and climate change. The interest in these key markets highlights the growing trend identified by recent International Wine and Spirits Research, that younger consumers in key markets are increasingly influenced by producers’ commitments to sustainability.

Future Post sets “benchmark”

A company transforming waste plastics into valuable vineyard posts took top prize at the 2025 Port Marlborough –Marlborough Environment Awards. “Future Post is an inspiring example of Kiwi innovation at its best,” the judging panel said when presenting the Supreme Award. “They’ve taken a pressing environmental issue – plastic waste – and turned it into a profitable, scalable solution that benefits multiple sectors, including agriculture, viticulture and infrastructure. Their dedication to continuous improvement, environmental responsibility and community engagement sets a new benchmark for sustainable

Overall, the report is a great way to tell our sustainability story internationally and to promote our members’ sustainability actions as a key part of the Altogether Unique New Zealand Wine brand. It was pertinent to release the report this year, as we celebrate 30 years of our Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand (SWNZ) certification programme. SWNZ lives at the heart of our sustainability story, and the robust empirical data gathered from SWNZ members is fundamental to ensuring the validity and transparency of our sustainability claims. Our data enables these claims to be made at a national industry level. This is what makes our industry unique in the world; we can show continuous improvement at a national level and demonstrate the extent of the work our members put in to protect the people and places that make our famous wines.

The report illustrates the key role research has in accelerating progress towards our sustainability goals. It details some of the exciting research underway at Bragato Research Institute across focus areas such as climate change, soil, and plant protection. Ultimately, this

enterprise in New Zealand.”

Future Post was founded by fencing contractor Jerome Wenzlick seven years ago, and started working with vineyards more than five years ago. These days it runs two large-scale recycling factories in Waiuku and Blenheim, processing more than 4,500 tonnes of plastic waste annually into UV-stabilised fence posts, vineyard posts, railway sleepers and other landscaping materials.

The BioGro certified posts come with a lifetime guarantee and have shown no signs of degradation, even under extreme stress testing. Offcuts and any product that fails quality control are reprocessed, so almost no plastic goes to waste. The judges were particularly impressed with the company’s collaboration with wine industry leaders, such as Saint Clair Family Estate, to help them trial and

research will help improve the resilience and efficiency of vineyard operations, enhancing sustainability.

The report also emphasises that every little bit counts. In essence, it is a call to action regarding the next steps our members can take on their sustainability journey. Whether that’s completing our walk-in-the-rain survey to better understand how water flows through the vineyard, engaging with EECA (Energy Efficiency & Conservation Authority) on how to conduct an energy efficiency audit, or developing a vineyard biosecurity plan to reduce the risk of an incursion of a new pest or disease. Getting started is the first step.

Overall, our commitment to sustainability remains a key differentiator for New Zealand wine and is central to its premium brand proposition. This report highlights the ongoing efforts by grape growers and winemakers across the industry in putting sustainability first. Have a read, ask some questions, start a curious conversation, and plan what the next steps are for your business.

Dr Edwin Massey is NZW General Manager Sustainability

promote the posts. Jerome says it can take a lot of time to change mindsets, but a handful of early adopters in the wine industry have had the posts in the ground for five years now, proving that they don’t break or “melt in a puddle”, as some of the more sceptical feared initially.

Future Post is exploring further innovations, including calculating its carbon footprint, improving worker safety protocols, and enhancing environmental safeguards at processing sites. There is also growing international interest in the products, with exports already reaching Australia, the Pacific Islands, and the United States. As well as winning the Supreme Award, co-sponsored by Marlborough Research Centre and Plant & Food Research, Future Post won the Wine Industry Category Award, sponsored by Wine Marlborough.

SOPHIE PREECE

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Wine Weather

What’s been going on?

JAMES MORRISON

After record breaking cold for some regions at the start of 2025 (I’m looking at you Wairarapa), there has been a steady improvement in temperatures across the country through March, and then recordbreaking warmth for many parts of New Zealand during April. From highest ever daily maximum averages to warmest ever daytime maximums, as well as unusually mild overnight temperatures, April certainly delivered. There was also the presence of high humidity and plenty of rain for some, but this did occur mainly during the second half of the month and overlapped into May, when coastal parts of Canterbury recorded some of the highest 24- and 48-hour rainfall totals, with weather records going back well into the 19th century. A weak La Niña has now ended and it looks increasingly likely that a neutral Southern Oscillation Index (SOI) will remain for the remainder of the year. There will still be fluctuations within this and other climate drivers such as the

Madden-Julian Oscillation can increase the chances of rain bearing systems from the tropics affecting New Zealand. The Southern Annular Mode may also have some influence and a positive SAM during early winter is likely to weaken the influence of our traditional westerlies. This increases the chance of rain and milder northerly winds, especially over the North Island and possibly the upper South Island.

A short history of weather stations across New Zealand:

Late autumn to early winter is generally a great time to get into all of the maintenance of the equipment we use to monitor our environment. Weather stations require

cleaning, surrounding grass needs to be cut, as well as upgrades to electronics and a general examination off all of the sensors to ensure that they are collecting quality data. Since the mid-1990s there has been a marked increase in the move away from collecting weather data manually to the fully digital machine that we now employ to gather our daily readings. However, prior to the mid1990s, and going back into the early 1800s, the job of reading and recording weather instruments was a human one. Mercury thermometers were used to measure current and maximum temperatures. A thermometer using alcohol was used for minimum temperatures because the mercury could become less viscous as the temperature fell,

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and if cold enough it could become a solid. Barographs measured air pressure and rain gauges were read and emptied at 9am, no matter what the weather.

Early Europeans to our shores brought weather instruments and many started keeping personal weather records. A more formalised system developed and by the 1860s there were weather stations keeping a track of our weather in several cities and towns. A search through historical climate data shows that there are at least a couple of those sites still active today, in Napier at Nelson Park and in Christchurch at the Botanical Gardens. The network of weather stations grew rapidly and were often maintained by workers at airports, hospitals, schools, forestry sites and research centres. Sometimes the original location of a weather station becomes unsuitable. In Hastings, the location of the weather station has moved at least four times, often because of nearby urban development. Many of these records

provides vital decision-making information for primary industries.

Outlook for June and July: Gisborne/Hawke’s Bay

Temperature is likely to run above average along the upper east coast of the North Island through early winter and quite likely for all of winter. There are still likely to be cold changes at times as we would expect, but so far, a stronger westerly influence has seen most approaching cold snaps run out of energy as they spread north. Rainfall totals are likely to be near average also as there may still be a tendency for low pressure systems to develop north of the North Island.

Wairarapa

Temperatures are likely to run above average across Wairarapa and there may be a reduction in northwesterlies. Milder and more humid north to northeast winds may occur at times although this may not

Nelson

Temperatures are likely to continue to run above average through early winter. Rainfall totals may run near average but there may be periods of dry conditions. Frosts are likely on the back of any south/southwest changes that do spread north.

Marlborough/North Canterbury

Temperatures remain above average. Rainfall totals are expected to run near average. We have seen some convergence that can produce heavy and intense rainfall over the upper South Island over the past six weeks and this may occur again as colder southerly changes run into warmer air pulled south out of the subtropics by low pressure systems north of the North Island.

Central Otago

Temperatures are likely to remain above average through early winter, but there will be periods of increased frostiness and settled

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Biosecurity Update

Protecting the places that make our famous wines

Most Unwanted: Responding to xylella

fastidiosa

Labelled by the European Union as one of the most dangerous plant pathogens in the world, xylella fastidiosa has been slowly spreading around the world since the 1880’s, when it was first noticed causing serious disease in Californian grape crops (Pierce’s disease). An incursion of xylella, and an associated biosecurity response in New Zealand, would have significant consequences for many of our horticultural industries, and likely for many native plant species as well.

Xylella fastidiosa – what is it?

Xylella is a bacterium which colonises the xylem vessels of plants. As it multiplies, it blocks the xylem tissue, restricting movement of water around the plant. It is capable of killing even mature vines in a period of 1-3 years after infection. The bacterium is transmitted by xylemfeeding insects which vector the spread by taking up the bacteria when feeding from an infected host plant and passing it onto the next plant they feed on. At least one known vector, the meadow spittlebug philaenus spumarius, is widespread in New Zealand.

Xylella is most likely to enter the country on imported plant material, or via the accidental import of an exotic insect vector. New Zealand has strict quarantine measures and testing regimes in place for introductions of new plant material from offshore, and there are particular requirements that must be met for known xylella host species.

Planning for response

New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) helped to establish and still chairs the Xylella Action Group (XAG), a partnership between NZW, Ministry for Primary Industries (MPI), Summerfruit New Zealand, Citrus New Zealand, and New Zealand Plant Producers Incorporated, that undertakes readiness and response planning for xylella through the Government Industry Agreement. Recently the action group worked through the hypothetical scenario of a xylella incursion based in a small Hawke’s Bay vineyard, designed to test aspects of response plans and decision making, and highlight any gaps where further work needs to be done.

Response measures

Should xylella fastidiosa be detected in New Zealand, the first decision that will need to be made is whether a biosecurity response should occur. Delimitation will be undertaken to determine the likely spread of the pathogen and what kind of response

(eradication, containment, slow the spread or straight to long term management) is best suited. In our hypothetical scenario, eradication was deemed feasible as there was no detection of the pathogen outside of the Hawke’s Bay vineyard. Once eradication is decided upon, several response measures would be put into place:

- Restricting the movement of susceptible plant material on and off the affected property. Some types of material could not be moved at all (vines, pruning offcuts) while others (e.g., harvested fruit) would need to be permitted under certain conditions.

- A Notice of Direction directing the destruction of all of the host material on the affected property. In our scenario, this meant all the grapevines on the vineyard (~12,000) would need to be removed and destroyed.

- Setting up a controlled area around the detection site. This is a buffer area around the detection site where movement of susceptible host plants

Sophie Badland

is controlled (not allowed out of the area) to help prevent the spread of the unwanted organism.

- Control of insect vectors within the response zone would also occur.

Compensation

If MPI uses powers under the Biosecurity Act during a response, for example to direct the destruction of property, the owners can claim compensation for those losses. In our scenario, the grower would have been eligible to claim compensation for the vine destruction losses, and production losses, while replacement vines were sourced and grown to maturity, roughly estimated at around $320,000.

MPI uses a detailed framework to calculate compensation eligibility and takes into account any loss mitigation factors.

Learnings from the scenario

As a result of working through the scenario, the XAG has identified several short projects that can be undertaken to improve readiness for xylella fastidiosa, including:

- Improving the efficiency of the delimitation phase by developing a more rigorous statistical host material sampling plan.

- Determining the requirements for realtime response monitoring dashboards in advance.

- Considering how to respond to a detection of xylella in an insect vector (without a positive host plant detection).

- Development of proactive response communications to industry and the public for the event of a xylella incursion.

- Increasing the understanding of industry around eligibility for

The basics

• Xylella fastidiosa poses a biosecurity threat to the New Zealand wine industry.

• The bacterial pathogen is spread by spittlebugs and could seriously impact New Zealand’s wine, citrus, summerfruit and plant production sectors, as well as some native and

compensation and what is required to make a claim, and the understanding of MPI staff of industry processes, costs and seasonal patterns.

- Determining triggers to move from response to a long-term management scenario (or for deciding to go straight to management without an eradication attempt).

These will be incorpated into the future work programme of the action group, with another scenario exercise, this time in the field, also likely to be held next year.

Sophie Badland is NZW Biosecurity & Emergency Response Manager

amenity species.

• The Xylella Action Group is running a series of scenarios to test readiness and response plans for xylella fastidiosa.

• Anyone suspecting they are seeing symptoms of xylella in their vines should contact the Biosecurity New Zealand pest and disease hotline on 0800 80 99 66.

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On your behalf

Taking NZ wine to the world: Bringing the world to NZ wine

Advocacy on matters of vital importance to

the industry

Nicola Crennan

Engagement activities update

The Advocacy team has had a busy start to the year, with engagement activities with key stakeholders, to ensure decision-makers have up to date information on the wine industry and to discuss issues of importance to our members.

In February, New Zealand Winegrowers (NZW) hosted the Primary Production Select Committee in Blenheim, along with Stuart Smith, MP for Kaikōura. At their request, the itinerary focused on large-scale export businesses. With visits to Indevin, Delegat and WineWorks, as well as a tour of the Bragato Research Institute (BRI) research winery, NZW demonstrated the investment, technology, and commitment of the wine industry to operating on a scale to deliver the wine our international consumers want to purchase. NZW also provided a ‘state of the industry’ briefing at the meeting, which provided an overview of the industry and issues of importance to all members.

Advocacy has also been engaging on proposed legislation that could significantly impact the industry. The team prepared a submission on the Gene Technology Bill, followed by an oral submission to the Health Select Committee, as well as a written and oral submission on the Resource Management Act legislation as it relates to freshwater farm plans for industry associations.

There has been significant engagement with the Ministry of Foreign Affairs and Trade to understand the implications of new United States tariffs. The support and access we have to officials and other agencies has assisted Advocacy to ensure members have timely and relevant information in this fastchanging environment.

Immigration policy is of immense importance to our industry. In March NZW hosted a visit by the Immigration Engagement Partner to North Canterbury wineries, who shared their businesses’ reliance on international vintage workers. This visit was followed by an opportunity to present to the immigration policy officers about our industry and to answer their questions.

In April, Philip Gregan met with Minister Andrew Hoggard to share industry’s concerns with proposed energy labelling changes and to discuss support for a wine industry specific threshold for freshwater farm plans. Philip, together with some regional representatives and Board members, also met the Minister in Hawke’s Bay, canvassing a range of issues relevant to industry and the region.

The Ministry of Business, Innovation and Employment (MBIE) Immigration (Skills and Residence) Policy team released proposals for seasonal visas to replace the current Specific Purpose Work Visa. Advocacy drew on a cross section of members who have experience in using this visa, particularly for winery cellar hands, to develop NZW’s submission. Advocacy is also developing a submission for additional roles for the new National Occupation list, as this will replace ANZSCO as the list Immigration uses from the end of 2025, so please contact the team if you have suggestions for additional roles at advocacy@nzwine.com.

Other activities include submissions on changes to vocational education, a letter to the Minister of Customs to request a twoyear freeze to excise increases, a briefing to MBIE workforce and immigration officials

on the industry, and meetings with the Ministry of Health on domestic health policy, the health levy and preparations for the upcoming United Nations High Level Meeting on Non-Communicable Diseases.

Advocacy has also supported BRI’s engagement activities, including a visit to BRI’s space in Lincoln by Associate Minister for Agriculture Nicola Grigg, and a visit by Dr Shane Reti to the BRI office in Blenheim. BRI Chief Executive Juliet Ansell attended a meeting with the Prime Minister for local businesses when he spent the day in Marlborough in April.

In late May, Advocacy will host an officials’ briefing in Wellington, to share key updates and engage in discussion with senior officials who support the wine industry. We hope to restart hosting these briefings in wine regions soon.

Planning is well underway for a Parliamentary function in June to celebrate wine industry success and 30 years of Sustainable Winegrowing New Zealand. Hosted by Stuart Smith, MP for Kaikōura, it is an opportunity to celebrate the successes of the industry and to demonstrate the industry’s commitment to continuous improvement in sustainability practices. Nicola Crennan is NZW External Relations Manager

Planning is well underway for a Parliamentary function in June to celebrate 30 years of SWNZ. Photo Prophets Rock

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The range of destemmers in the EA and EA-S range offers flexibility and choice with options to suit your production requirements. The EA destemmers use variable speed drives for gentle movement, reducing mechanical treatment on the grapes. Equipped with powerful motors, these destemmers deliver exceptional results while preserving grape quality.

Le Cube Destemmer.

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The destemmer on Le Cube utilises gravity to move bunches down through a series of vibrating ribs to gently remove the grapes from the stems.

Mark Daniel’s updates on machinery and technology

Cropsy’s cutting-edge AI on the vineyard

A New Zealand startup is providing growers with vital information for daily operations and long-term vineyard management, using a unique and scalable AI vine scanner that gives a vine-specific view of disease, pruning, land productivity and yields. Forty Cropsy systems have been deployed throughout New Zealand, the United States and France, with more than 20 million vine scans conducted in the past 12 months.

One of Cropsy’s four co-founders, Leila Deljkovic, says the scanner covers extensive vineyard areas that scouting simply cannot. “The scanner mounts to any vehicle that drives through the vineyard regularly, so compared to boots-on-the-ground, Cropsy provides richer and fresher data for precision vineyard management at scale. Those decision-ready insights are delivered before your first coffee of the day.”

Cropsy uses its innovative AI scanning technology to pinpoint every vine –including missing or dead vines, mildew infection, bunch, cane, spur, and bud in real time, as the vehicle passes through the vineyard. In operation, Cropsy scanners can analyse up to 8,000 vines an hour, with the insights available in as little as 30 minutes, though typically by the next morning.

The result is a ‘digital twin’ of the vineyard, delivered using comprehensive reports, dashboards, maps, tables, or

Landini Rex 4

The Landini Rex 4 Series, recently released in New Zealand, is designed with vineyards in mind. The cabin-only machine is equipped with a four-cylinder, 2900cc engine, manufactured to a Tier 4 Final emission rating, by German specialist engine builders Deutz AG. Power outputs range from 75 to 112hp, via five steps. Starting with the Speed Four configuration, with four speeds and three ranges offering 12 forward and 12 reverse speeds, the addition of an optional creep-set pushes this out to 16F/16R, with a minimum speed of 280 metres/ hour. Moving up the options, the Power 4 version, adds Hi/Lo to offer 36F/12R, while the T-Tronic version adds robotised

printouts to share with in-field workers. Subsequent passes build a vine-by-vine history of the vineyard to inform how things are changing.

Cropsy’s latest commercial traction has proven key use cases in vineyards, particularly around labour availability challenges, by improving pruning quality and ensuring adherence to the pruning specifications with rapid feedback to workers. The data also helps to direct labour to the right spots for mildew management, escalating treatment before an outbreak forms.

The system also provides early warnings of mildew infections, allowing a targeted approach to treatment decisions, alongside providing inflorescence and cluster counts to improve yield forecasts, while also identifying underperforming or dying plants in the vineyard. It also allows precision replanting of new vines to replace failed plants.

Some of the most used features on the

Cropsy platform include mildew evidence photos, where growers can view proof of the scanner detections from their desktop, and block-level pruning statistics, which highlight over or under-pruned rows. The company also plans to develop support for new trellis and pruning styles to reach more growers around the world, and expects to release a much-anticipated grapevine trunk disease feature this spring.

In 2024, extensive, live in-vineyard demos took place across New Zealand and this year have been enthusiastically welcomed in the US market. Recently, Cropsy signed up its first service provider – Flowerday Contracting in Marlborough – which targets small and medium sized growers. The Marlborough Grape Growers Co-operative is using Cropsy across all its member growers, working with Flowerday Contracting to undertake the scanning. Coop growers all have their own access to the Cropsy platform for their blocks. cropsy.tech

shifting under load, that when fitted with Creep pushes the speeds available out to 48 forward and 16 reverse.

The rear linkage offers a capacity of up to 2700kg, complemented by either a double hydraulic pump system that provides 58 +38 l/min, or a triple pump set up which increases this to 30+58+36 l/min, through

four or six remote valves. For those looking for high flow rates, the system offers a very useable 54 l/min at only 1500 engine revs. At the business end of the tractor, 2 or 4 PTO speeds are available (540/1000 or 540/540E/1000/1000E) to cover all types of operations. norwood.co.nz

A Cropsy bud heat map

Current research projects

Research Supplement

A regular feature to inform and update the wine industry on research projects being undertaken for their benefit. Newly approved projects when available are briefly summarised. Ongoing projects have longer articles that describe progress and what has been achieved so far. When completed, each project report will be shared in full detail in the Research Library on nzwine.com.

Bragato Research Institute leads quality research and innovation that enables the New Zealand wine industry to thrive. It conducts research in-house and collaborates with research organisations throughout New Zealand. The main research provider for each project is listed below. Updates are provided on the highlighted projects in this supplement.

Vineyard innovation

Next Generation Viticulture Programme

Bragato Research Institute

Evaluation of the short-term impact of remedial surgery on grapevine trunk disease and vineyard sustainability

Linnaeus, SARDI, Sutton McCarthy

Central Otago Pinot Noir clonal trial

Bragato Research Institute, Otago Polytechnic, Riversun Nurseries

Elemental sulphur persistence on grapes and mitigation strategies

Lincoln University

Increasing financial sustainability of Chardonnay in Hawke’s Bay through long spur pruning to increase yield

Eastern Institute of Technology

Long spur pruning as an alternative for Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc

Bragato Research Institute

Highwire livestock integrated system

Lincoln University, Bragato Research Institute, Greystone Wines

Genetics for winegrowing

Sauvignon Blanc Grapevine Improvement Programme

Bragato Research Institute, Plant & Food Research, Lincoln University

National Vine Collection virus eradication

Bragato Research Institute

Rapid detection of fungicideresistance in grapevine powdery mildew in New Zealand

Bragato Research Institute

Graft-derived drought tolerance: identifying and functionally characterising graft-transmitted elements

Bragato Research Institute

RNAi viral relief

Bragato Research Institute

Winemaking

innovation

Exploring reductive aromas in Pinot Noir

University of Auckland

Precipitation of calcium tartrate and other compounds in wine University of Canterbury

Lab on a Chip: Developing diagnostic devices for the wine industry University of Canterbury

Prevention of quercetin instability in bottled wine

Indevin

Sustainable winegrowing

UV light in vineyards to reduce fungicide dependence

Bragato Research Institute, A Lighter Touch

Evaluating water use efficiency and drought tolerance of various rootstocks grafted to Sauvignon Blanc

Bragato Research Institute

Goldie Estate

Investigating alternative training systems to boost vineyard productivity – Vintage 2023 winemaking and sensory

Dr Paul Epee, Ngarita Warden, Dr Fang Gou, Bragato Research Institute

The main goal in vineyard management is to grow high-quality grapes that make great wine – and to do so in a way that makes financial sense. With production costs rising, grape growers are under pressure to find new and more efficient ways to manage their vineyards. But cost savings cannot come at the expense of wine quality.

To address this, Bragato Research Institute (BRI), the research arm of New Zealand Winegrowers, began looking into more cost-effective winegrowing systems. This work formed the pilot phase of the Next Generation Viticulture (NGV) programme.

The trial tested six alternative vine training systems on five different grape varieties across three Marlborough vineyards. The aim was to see whether these systems could increase or maintain yield while reducing vineyard management costs.

The first results, reported in previous issues of this magazine (Issues 149 and 150), compared these new systems to the traditional 3Cane training method (head-cane training) used for Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Some of the new systems produced more shoots and had bigger vine canopies, which captured more sunlight. This helped them produce more fruit and more vine growth, even though the grapes took slightly longer to ripen.

One standout system, the 6VCane (six vertical canes), consistently performed well. It carried more fruit well distributed over the canopy (Photo 1), flowers, and shoots of moderate vigour that self-terminated (Photo 2) by harvest time. Another

system, 2BudSpur, also performed well in some areas. The 6VCane vines had optimal budburst and grew a less dense canopy, even with double the number of shoots compared to the traditional 3Cane. It also produced twice the yield of the control vines.

Of course, none of this matters if wine quality is not maintained or improved. So, grapes from these trials were also made into wine at the BRI Research Winery, where their chemistry and sensory attributes were assessed. This article presents the winemaking and wine quality results for Sauvignon Blanc harvested in the lower Wairau (Rapaura, Blenheim) trial site.

Methodology

Vineyard description

The grapes were picked from a Sauvignon Blanc vineyard planted in the late 2000s, located in Rapaura (northwest of Blenheim). The scion was grafted on an unknown rootstock, with rows spaced 2.7 m

apart and vines 1.8 m apart. Four vine training systems were considered in this part of the trial: 3Cane, 6VCane, 2BudSpur, and Horizontal (Table 1). A detailed description of the site and the vine training treatments is presented the previous two articles of this series.

Fruit processing

The grapes were picked in three batches per training treatment. After weighing, they were destemmed, crushed, and treated with 80 mg/L of potassium metabisulfite or PMS. To simulate gondola and truck transport, the crushed grapes were cooled and gently mixed before being pressed separately under inert gas into 17-litre stainless steel tanks. Settling agents were added, and the juice was left to clarify for 48 hours at 7°C before racking off the solids. After racking, samples were tested for sugar (TSS), acidity (TA), pH, malic acid, and available nutrients for yeast (YAN).

Photo 1 Fruit distribution on the canopy of a 6VCane vine. The tape measure is graduated in decimeters.

Fermentation

The clarified juice was gradually warmed to 18°C, yeast was added, and fermentation monitored daily. Temperature was adjusted to enable a 1.5°Brix decrease per day. Most ferments took 12–14 days. The 6VCane wines fermented slightly faster, while 2BudSpur took about a day longer than the 3Cane control. Wines were cooled and stabilised by adding bentonite (to prevent haze) and cream of tartar (to prevent crystal formation), then filtered and bottled.

Filtration and bottling

The wines were analysed for alcohol, pH, acidity, sugar, and sulphur levels. Sulphur was adjusted, then the wine was filtered through several increasingly fine filters and bottled in 750 mL bottles between June and August 2023. Bottled wine was stored at 10°C.

Aroma analysis and sensory evaluation

After bottling, wine samples were sent to the lab to measure key aroma compounds. These included methoxypyrazines (which give green/ herbaceous aromas) and thiols (which add fruity, tropical notes). Compounds like 3-mercaptohexan1-ol (3MH) and 3-mercaptohexyl acetate (3MHA) are especially important in Sauvignon Blanc for flavours like passionfruit and grapefruit.

In September 2023, a tasting panel of 12 experienced Marlborough winemakers judged the wines on 21 different aroma and flavour traits relevant to Sauvignon Blanc. Wines were tasted blind, in a random order, and rated on a 10 cm line scale for each attribute (from 0 = not present to 10 = very strong).

Results

Pressed juice composition and fermentation

Three training treatments showed no significant differences between the pressed grape juice TSS, pH, and

TA (Table 1). However, Horizontal vines could not reach the target TSS of 20°Brix, despite being harvested in May. While titratable acidity (TA) remained similar, malic acid concentrations were highest in 3Cane, lower in 6VCane and 2BudSpur, and lowest in Horizontal. This indicated that malic acid degradation was more advanced in later-harvested treatments, mainly Horizontal. This trend could be due to prolonged ripening, increased respiration and high crop levels.

Yeast assimilable nitrogen (YAN) also exhibited significant variation, with the highest values on 3Cane juice and the second highest on 6VCane juice. These differences were critical, as low YAN influences fermentation

kinetics and final wine aroma potential. There was a clear trend for 3Cane and 6VCane to have a shorter fermentation, possibly due to their relatively high YAN (Table 1).

Wine chemical composition

The training system significantly affected the final wine composition, particularly alcohol, TA, malic acid, and volatile acidity (Table 2). The 3Cane treatment had the highest alcohol content, while the Horizontal had the lowest, reflecting the differences in fruit ripeness and sugar accumulation at harvest. The significant reduction in wine TA and malic acid on 6VCane, 2BudSpur, and Horizontal may indicate varying metabolic activity, possibly due to the extended hang time and high crop level.

Photo 2 Moderate vigour shoot on a 6VCane vine

Aroma compounds

Methoxypyrazines, the key contributors to herbaceous and green bell pepper aromas in wines, were highest in 3Cane wines and lowest in Horizontal (Table 3). This suggests that training systems are critical in regulating methoxypyrazine accumulation. 6VCane wines were highest in thiols. Volatile thiols contribute to fruity and tropical aromas in wine, particularly passionfruit and grapefruit notes. The significantly lower 3MHA and 4MMP concentrations in Horizontal wines suggest that this training system, coupled with the heavy crop level and prolonged hang time, might have impacted thiol retention or biosynthesis.

Wine sensory evaluation

3Cane and 6VCane were rated highest for aroma intensity, palate balance, and floral notes, suggesting a greater concentration of sensory compounds in these wines (Figure 1). 2BudSpur and Horizontal, while displaying moderate intensity in several characters, tended to score lower for aroma intensity and colour, potentially indicating lower fruit ripeness or differences in grape composition.

Acidity and bitterness were particularly pronounced in the 3Cane and 6VCane wines (Figure 1). These wines also showcase stronger herbaceous characteristics, indicative of higher methoxypyrazine levels (Table 3), commonly associated with vigorous canopies or earlier harvest dates. In contrast, the Horizontal and 2BudSpur appeared to yield wines with more muted acidity and bitterness, possibly due to a prolonged hang time (Table 1). The lower oxidation scores across all treatments suggested that the wines were well-managed postharvest, maintaining their freshness and preventing premature aging. The presence of tropical and citrus fruit notes, as well as warmth/ alcohol perception, varied across the

About the project

Inves&ga&ng alterna&ve training systems to boost vineyard produc&vity – Vintage 2023 winemaking and sensory

Dr Paul Epee, Ngarita Warden, Dr Fang Gou, Bragato Research Ins<tute

Next Generation Viticulture is a seven-year programme that is a partnership between the Ministry for Primary Industries, New Zealand Winegrowers, and seven wine business co-investors contributing cash and in-kind. Bragato Research Institute is contracted to deliver the programme. The programme’s vision is to increase vineyard productivity without compromising wine quality or the environment.

Table 1 Physicochemical analyses of pressed grape juice before fermentation

Table 1 Physicochemical analyses of pressed grape juice before fermenta<on Vine training systems*

Means sharing di;erent lowercase letters in a column are significantly di;erent with the Tukey

0.05.

at p

Means sharing different lowercase leVers in a column are significantly different with the Tukey test at p ≤ 0.05.

*These training systems are illustrated in a previous article of this series (Issue 149).

*These training systems are illustrated in a previous ar<cle of this series (issue 149).

Table 2 Wine basic physicochemical analyses

Means sharing di;erent lowercase letters in a

0.05.

Table 3 Methoxypyrazine and thiol analysis

IBMP: Isobutylmethoxypyrazine, IPMP: Isopropylmethoxypyrazine, SBMP: Sec-butylmethoxypyrazine, 3MH: 3-mercaptohexan-1-ol, 3MHA: 3-mercaptohexyl acetate, 4MMP: 4-mercapto-4-methylpentan-2one Means sharing di;erent lowercase letters in a column are significantly di;erent with the Tukey test at p ≤ 0.05.

treatments, with 3Cane and 6VCane showing a broader spectrum of fruit expression compared to Horizontal and 2BudSpur.

Conclusion

Of the seven training treatments trialled in the vineyard during the pilot phase of NGV, four were selected for winery fermentation, chemical analysis, and sensory evaluation. Among these, the 6VCane training system demonstrated strong potential, achieving more than double the yield of 3Cane, significantly outperforming 2BudSpur, yet falling slightly short of Horizontal. While 6VCane had a slightly lower TSS at harvest than 3Cane, it resulted in a moderate alcohol content in the final wine. Sensory evaluation highlighted its strong performance in aroma

intensity, complexity, and tropical fruit characteristics, aligning closely with 3Cane. Methoxypyrazine and thiol analysis further supported this, with 6VCane wines exhibiting the highest concentrations of 3MH and 4MMP – key compounds contributing to desirable tropical and citrus fruit aromas.

When considering the vegetative and reproductive growth performance and wine quality, 6VCane presented a well-balanced option. It delivered significantly more fruit, less dense canopy with moderate vigour shoots than 3Cane while maintaining good wine quality, with a strong aromatic profile, balanced acidity, and moderate alcohol. Although 3Cane wines received slightly higher overall ratings,

6VCane consistently outperformed 2BudSpur and Horizontal, making it a viable choice for producers seeking to improve yields without compromising essential flavour and quality attributes. The main tradeoff was its marginally lower TSS and alcohol compared to 3Cane, which

could influence the wine’s body and perceived intensity.

Overall, the 6VCane training system emerged as a promising alternative for vineyards aiming to enhance productivity while maintaining high wine quality. It significantly

surpassed Horizontal in terms of wine complexity and aromatic intensity while offering a substantial yield advantage over 3Cane, positioning it as an economically attractive option. While 3Cane remains a strong choice for premium winemaking due to its slightly superior sensory profile, 6VCane represents a practical and compelling strategy for addressing the economic challenges facing New Zealand vineyards.

Acknowledgement

We acknowledge the contribution of Dr Stuart Tustin, NGV Science Advisor, for the science review, and Louise Thomas for professionally editing this article.

About the project:

Next Generation Viticulture is a seven-year programme that is a partnership between the Ministry for Primary Industries, New Zealand Winegrowers, and seven wine business co-investors contributing cash and in-kind. Bragato Research Institute is contracted to deliver the programme. The programme’s vision is to increase vineyard productivity without compromising wine quality or the environment.

An update on the Marlborough long-spur pruning trial in season four

Yuichi Ando, Bragato Research Institute

In vineyards, the pursuit of more efficient growing systems is ongoing, often driven by advancements in machinery and the emergence of innovative technologies. However, long-term improvements typically require substantial upfront investment, and rising costs across all areas of vineyard operations have made implementation increasingly challenging. As a result, growers are placing greater focus on strategies that deliver immediate cost savings, to maintain profitability.

Winter pruning alone accounts for approximately 35% of total vineyard expenditure, so small improvements in this area can significantly impact financial outcomes. Since 2021, Bragato Research Institute (BRI) has been monitoring a two-cordon longspur pruning trial on Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, comparing it to the traditional four-cane VSP system in terms of vine performance, wine quality, and overall viability. This article provides an update on the trial’s progress and findings in the fourth season.

Yield in 2025

In the 2025 season, like many vineyards across the Marlborough region, two trial sites delivered outstanding yields in all treatments, approximately 50% higher than the average of previous years (Table 1). This exceptional yield was driven by increases in bunch numbers, bunch weight, berry numbers and berry mass. Nonetheless, the pattern of yield differences between treatments followed previous years. At the Marlborough Research Centre (MRC) trial site, there were no statistical

Figure 1 Wine sensory evaluation. Attributes followed by asterisks (*) are significantly different between training treatments with the ANOVA test at p ≤ 0.05

yield differences, but 4BS had a slightly lower yield than 4C and 5BS. In contrast, Rapaura 4BS consistently underperformed (for the fourth year in a row), showing significantly lower yields than 4C.

Yield component in 2025

At MRC, bunch numbers in 5BS were higher than 4C and 4BS, which followed the trend of the previous three seasons. There was no statistical difference in bunch weight between treatments, however, longspur vines tend to produce smaller bunches than 4C vines due to lower berry numbers, which is consistent over all trial years. Berry mass was not statistically different between treatments in each trial year. At the Rapaura site, the 4BS bunch number has consistently been lower when compared to 4C, partially explaining lower levels in the final yield every season. 4BS bunch weight was statistically lower than 4C due to fewer berry numbers.

Other parameters

Slight variations in juice composition (°Brix, pH, and TA) were a reflection of yield differences, i.e. higher yields resulted in lower TSS and pH, along with higher TA. There was no marked difference in Botrytis between treatments, with incidence of 10% for MRC and 7% for Rapaura, and severity less than 1% for both sites.

Site variations

The contrast in yield variation between the two sites for 4C and 4BS clearly demonstrates the financial implications, positioning long-spur as a viable option for MRC. However, for Rapaura, long-spur is only feasible if 5BS is implemented from the outset. This is due to the greater difference in bunch number and bunch weight between the two treatments at Rapaura compared to MRC (Table 2).

Findings

To provide insight into the composition of bunch number per vine and to address whether bud fruitfulness of long-spur improves

Table 1 Trial informa/on, yield of long-spur pruning and the compara/ve cane-pruning for four seasons and yield component of 2025 season. The numbers in the brackets in the 2025 yield represent the average yield in kg per vine of each treatment.

Table 1 Trial informa/on, yield of long-spur pruning and the compara/ve cane-pruning for four seasons and yield component of 2025 season. The numbers in the brackets in the 2025 yield represent the average yield in kg per vine of each treatment.

Vineyard MRC Rapaura Site loca/on Grovetown Rapaura Vine space & year

Vineyard MRC Rapaura Site loca/on Grovetown Rapaura Vines/ha & year

(2006)

Clone and rootstock

Yield component 2025

Yield component 2025

Juice composi/on 2025

Means followed by the same letter are not significantly different with the Tukey test at the 5% level, ns

not statistically significant.

Means followed by the same letter are not significantly different with the Tukey test at the 5% level, ns means not statistically significant.

Table 2. Historical data of bunch numbers and bunch weight of MRC and Rapaura. Varia/on (calculated as treatment 4BS deducted from 4C) shows the greater differences in both variable at Rapaura site each season.)

Table 2. Historical data of bunch numbers and bunch weight of MRC and Rapaura. Varia/on (calculated as treatment 4BS deducted from 4C) shows the greater differences in both variable at Rapaura site each season.)

with increasing cordon diameter, a bud fruitfulness assessment was conducted in the fourth season. This assessment revealed significant insights into bunch number composition based on pruning types (Figure 1). The results showed that the average bud fruitfulness in both long-spur treatments was consistently lower than cane pruned (4C) vines when compared with nodes 1-4 for each treatment. Assuming that bud initiation on shoots occurred under very similar climatic conditions in the previous season across treatments at the trial, the results suggest that the developed cordons in long-spur vines are unlikely to have contributed to improved bud fruitfulness. Lower bud

fruitfulness in long-spur vines results in fewer bunches developing from retained buds compared to canepruned vines. In fact, reviewing the bud fruitfulness assessment and total bunch number at harvest discovered that 20-30% of the total bunches in long-spur vines originated from noncount (water) shoots, compared to just 5-7% in 4C vines. An increase in water shoots from quiescent buds in spur pruning is well documented in other pruning experiments.

In this study, shoot thinning was not undertaken to simulate the most common vineyard management practices in the region. Under these conditions, fruit produced on

inflorescences

Bud fruitfulness along a cane - MRC

Bud fruitfulness along a cane - Rapaura

bud fruitfulness

non-count (water) shoots plays a significant role in maintaining yields in long spur vines, supporting their overall viability.

While an increased number of water

shoots is typically associated with a denser canopy and increases disease pressure, this study did not observe any notable increase in disease occurrence. However, this outcome

may vary depending on site-specific management practices and the number of buds and spurs laid where the long spur system is adopted. Another important consideration is

Figure 1. Bud fruitfulness along a cane for MRC and Rapaura. Each point represents the mean of replicates (n=6) and includes blind bud and double shoot factors.

Figure 1 Bud fruitfulness along a cane for MRC and Rapaura. Each point represents the mean of replicates (n=6) and includes blind bud and double shoot factors.

Bud fruitfulness of cane pruning (4C)

Node position

Figure 2. The comparison of bud fruitfulness of cane-pruned vines of MRC and Rapaura. Each point represents the mean of replicates (n=6) and includes blind bud and double shoot factors.

Figure 2 The comparison of bud fruitfulness of cane-pruned vines of MRC and Rapaura. Each point represents the mean of replicates (n=6) and includes blind bud and double shoot factors.

that a denser canopy can reduce light interception, which may negatively impact bud initiation, and therefore, future productivity.

Other significant observations indicated that, while the average bud fruitfulness along a cane was comparable between MRC (1.72) and Rapaura (1.69), the distribution varied significantly (Figure 2). At Rapaura, basal bud fruitfulness was relatively low (1.20 4BS and 1.22 5BS), with a sharp increase toward the mid and distal buds. Conversely, MRC exhibited a gradual increase towards the distal buds, resulting in minor differences between the basal and distal buds. This uneven pattern at Rapaura may help explain the significant differences in bunch numbers observed between 4BS (spur pruned) and 4C (cane pruned) at that site.

Understanding how bud fruitfulness is distributed along the cane can offer valuable insight into the potential

yield outcomes of a long spur system. For growers considering a transition to long spur pruning, conducting a bud fruitfulness assessment in existing cane pruned blocks may help determine both the suitability of adopting long spur and which long spur approach is best suited to the site.

Key takeaways

In 2025, all treatments at both sites had exceptionally high yields, driven by greater than average bunch numbers and bunch mass. However, the yield relationship between treatments remained consistent with previous years. Compared to four cane pruned vines, the long spur vines tended to have denser canopies, fewer bunch numbers from count buds, smaller bunch weight due to fewer berries, and less bunches per shoot, however in most cases this did not result in differences in overall yield between treatments. There was no differences in botrytis

pressure among treatments in 2025, aligning with patterns in previous years. Juice composition reflected the yield differences and did not raise any concerns about fruit quality. An assessment of bud fruitfulness indicated contrasting distribution along a cane between the two sites, with a notable difference in fruitfulness between nodes 1-4 and nodes 5-12. This variation may explain the underperformance of the long spur system at the Rapaura site.

About the project:

Long spur pruning as an alternative to cane pruning for Sauvignon Blanc in Marlborough is a research project led by Bragato Research Institute in collaboration with Mark Allen and Dr Stewart Field. It is funded by the New Zealand Winegrowers levy.

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