SAVANNAHGANS - THE International Savannah Cat Magazine SP2021

FROM THE OWNER/EDITOR'S DESK by: Debra Roberts

Welcome to the fifth edition of

SAVANNAHGANS® THE International Savannah Cat Magazine As the business's first anniversary approaches, I can't believe what a success this magazine has been in such a short time! With over 11,000 website views (magazine and blog post visits) by over 6,000 unique visitors, that's triple the January 2021 figures alone! I'm happy to know many breeders and experienced owners who've educated me on our wonderful breed over the past four years. I look forward to meeting many more while creating great content for the magazine and website!

My husband Jamison and I own four Savannahs. We've run the gamut of experiences, including a breeder scam, a fatal disease (FIP), and the discovery of a cure for it. On a happy note, our Luna (FIP Survivor), whom many people have followed since her diagnosis and treatment, turned FOUR in January! Go, Luna and all the other FIP kitties out there who are getting a chance at life thanks to the lifelong research of Dr. Niels Pedersen of UC Davis!

I aim to write and publish informative and entertaining content from Savannah enthusiasts and experts in a whimsical, electronic, FREE publication. I combine factual and heartwarming stories with health and safety education. Current and future owners can easily search our website using keywords to find tons of information and facts about our wonderful breed. The list of knowledgeable contributors sharing stories and experiences with our readers is steadily growing, so there's no lack of fabulous content to publish!

Savannahgans® e-magazine welcomes ALL cat lovers, regardless of breed, to enjoy our content.

Whether searching for safety, health, food, or DIY advice, you'll find it all in each quarterly issue and the blog at www.savannahgans.com. It's all FREE. Your support by donations, ads, and shopping through our affiliate links helps with operating expenses and is shared with the Savannah Care and Rescue Funds.

Follow us! We have Facebook, Instagram, Pinterest, YouTube, and Twitter pages!

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Owner, Editor, Writer, Designer, Marketing, and Social Media:

Debra Roberts, Savannah owner, R.N., and blogger

Illustrator, Graphic Designer and Art Director:

Jacqueline Luttrelle, Savannah owner and artist

Featured Writers:

Dreia Nickerson, Savannah owner Amanda Gerard, Savannah Breeder Laura Lawson, Savannah owner Gary Fulgram, Savannah breeder Jenny Biehunko, DVM; Resident ACVB, Veterinarian and Pet Behaviorist Jamison Roberts, Savannah owner Heather Jackson, Savannah breeder

Media Contributors:

Mandy Townend-Kolodziej, Savannah owner Carl Bain, Savannah owner Peri Hughes, Savannah owner

Featured DIY:

Laura Root, Savannah owner

Featured Artist:

Maria Harrison, owner of Mynwood Cat Jackets

Featured Breeder:

Patrick Kelley, breeder and owner of Fig Tree Felines

On the Cover:

F2 Snow "Niffler" of Lanna's Savannahs, owned by Jenny Biehunko, DVM; Resident ACVB, Veterinarian, and Pet Behaviorist

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7-year-old F5 Zombie of Kirembo Savannahs owned

by Kelly Ann Bennett

WHAT'S IN THE SPRING 2021 EDITION? Featured Stories

8 - 18

Health and Safety

20 - 34

Breeder Spotlight

35 - 40

Featured Artist

42 - 44

Product Review

47 - 55

Featured DIY

56 - 59

What the "F"

60

Rescue & Care Funds

61 - 62

Ask Auntie Vannah

64

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Savannah Heightz Savannahs www.savannahheightz.com SavannahHeightz@gmail.com

savannahheightz Located in Washington and Nevada, we're a small in-home TICA registered breeder specializing in producing unique purebred F1A, F2B, F3C, and F4 and F5 SBT Savannah kittens with a wild majestic look of their ancestors. Our cats are bred to develop the Savannah breed standard further, emphasizing large ears, triangular faces, long bodies, and legs with a majestically bold spotted pattern. Additional generations to come in future breeding.

We're expecting F1A and F4SBT litters in mid2021 and F1A, F3C, and F4SBT in fall 2021.

Left: Our breeders. Below: Some of our past kittens

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N I TA R E C N U AH N S ' N LIFE SA VA A T .

E T G A C

Turloc is owned by Mandy Townend-Kolodziej.

Tuloc decided he needed to destroy not one but TWO bags of kitty litter! At least it was CLEAN litter!

10-year-old F1 "Tuloc the Trouble Maker" of WildStreaks Savannahs, BC, Canada.

IN A WORLD FULL OF CHAOS, GROUND YOURSELF WITH THE BEAUTIFUL THINGS GOING ON IN YOUR LIFE--LIKE SAVANNAH CATS! Page 7

Creating Savannah Havens and Outdoor Enclosures By: Dreia Nickerson of Saltspring Island, BC, Canada, with assistance from Carl Bain of Copley, Ohio

I live with two Savannahs, three 1/2-year-old F7SBT Hank, and two 1/2-year-old F6 Willie Coyote. In his first year with Hank, he was only a kitten. He spent much time with me in the yard on a leash, which led to him desperately wanting to be out there at least six hours a day. He also had an enclosure, but seeing his familiar, beloved yard just out of reach constantly reminded him of where he would rather be. He wasn't happy, so I began researching alternatives that might allow them to be out there.

There are several types of professionally manufactured cat fencing. However, considering the size of the area I wanted to fence, a ready-made kit would be beyond my budget. And I was curious if the heavy plastic netting would be tough enough to withstand a determined raccoon. There are also do-it-yourself alternatives that are less expensive. The general design recommendation is a fence between 6' and 8' high, with brackets to support a 28" inward-angled overhang of flexible but rigid plastic netting. The mesh should be no larger than 1 cm, as anything a paw can get through can twist and result in serious injury. As many deciduous trees surround my yard, keeping a net overhang free of debris could be challenging.

There are a few reports of unusually agile cats that manage to get past this type of overhang, so I wanted something more durable and secure for my Savannahs.

On top, Carl built a 2-foot 45-degree angled overhang, but Cody learned how to escape over the fence within a few days. His veterinarian suggested installing a small animalcontrol the electric fence along the top. This system worked for seven years with no escapes.

Carl's since enlarged the enclosure to be approximately 86' x 55" x 26' and removed the overhang entirely.

In my search for a solution, a fence built by Carl Bain inspired me. Carl lives with four Savannahs. Camille and Cody are female and male F3s, Casey, a big F2B male, and Aspen, a silver F2 male. In 2013, Carl decided he wanted to find a way to allow them to play in an enclosed section of his yard, so he got a contractor to build him a sturdy 8-foot high wood fence frame, to which he added heavy galvanized wire fencing with 2 X4 inch mesh. His initial enclosure was approximately 26 x 26 feet.

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I built a fence using a mix of 8- and 10-foot metal T-bar fence posts ** with 5-foot long ⅜ inch rebar sections. The rebar is bent at the midpoint and bound with wire to the top of the metal posts, creating sufficient support for the doubled-up 4foot-wide rolls of two-inch mesh, 16-gauge galvanized wire fencing, and about 20" of the inwardly angled lip. In my situation, the lip is mainly to create a place for a second charged wire at the top of the fence edge, which can be easily kept clear of the abundant blackberries on the other side. My fence is 6 1⁄2 feet high, begins to angle inward but continues upward, and the edge of the overhang is about 7 1⁄2 feet off the ground. **(the building supply place didn't have all the 8foot T-bars I needed, so I had to use 10 foot) Carl set this up using three low-powered pulsating type electric fence wires held six inches out from the galvanized fencing with plastic insulators. One charged wire goes around the inner perimeter of the fence about seven feet up, and the other goes along the top. The third hot wire goes around the outer periphery of his fence, about seven feet up. The wire's charge is a low-powered, .05 joule, 2-mile electric fence charger. The metal fencing is in contact with the ground, which is necessary for the charged wires to work. Carl also keeps a five-mile charger and an electric fence tester to ensure everything works.

I decided to modify Carl's fence to fit my yard, which includes a small orchard, pond, access to my woodshed and garden, and some wild areas along the sides. This would require about 450 feet of fencing, plus the front of my house and woodshed. As my budget was limited, inexpensive and durable were more of a priority than pretty.

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I've never seen my Savannahs jump with their front paws more than 5-6 feet off the ground. However, more agile Savannahs may require a higher fence.

The fence is securely attached to logs or salvaged lumber along the lower edge. The outer perimeter is reinforced with large rocks to discourage anything burrowing in.

I have a sizable multi-stemmed maple tree in my yard that's about 60 feet tall. I wrapped the trunk in metal sheeting, which was then topped by netting, as I want to avoid my Savannahs climbing tall trees, which Hank aspires to.

Plastic insulators attached to the T-bar fence posts hold the charged wires about six inches from the fencing. Because my fence doesn't have a wood frame's stability, I installed additional insulators to ensure the charged wire stays at the correct 6-inch distance from the fencing. I'm adding charged wire along the edge of the overhang, but this is to keep raccoons out when the walnuts ripen. As far as I've seen, my Savannahs have never tried to climb the fence. But the lowpower electric fence is an added reinforcement.

I've encountered some people who disagree with using even low-powered electric fencing to keep cats contained. However, this is a visible boundary. Cats quickly learn to avoid it, and the situation isn't much different from cats learning not to try catching bees.

My Savannahs have had daytime indoor /outdoor access to the yard for almost a year, and there have not been any escapes.

They always seem happy to come in at supper time and ready to sleep through the night. However, like most things, this system's not entirely risk-free!

I also built a small 8' x 5' enclosed, roofed, double-gated entryway in front of my main gate to provide space to bring in a wheelbarrow, guests, or my bicycle without the worry of cats slipping out.

Along the inner perimeter, about 4 feet up, a 16-gauge galvanized wire connects to a very low-powered, lowimpedance, pulsating, .07 joule electric fence charger.

I have yet to discuss all the details of safely setting up an electric fence in this article. If you need more clarification on what you're doing, please seek advice from someone qualified to install electric fences!

The charger must be very low-powered and the type that pulsates. The stronger continuous charged type electric fence wires can be harmful.

Your local fire department may require the electric fence to be off in dry areas at certain times of the year. It gets very dry here in the summer, and our local fire department didn't think such a low-powered pulsing electric fence would be a hazard, but regulations may vary.

Always check with local regulators to make sure you can comply with local safety requirements!

Cats who go outside or have opportunities to catch mice need regular flea and tick prevention and internal parasite control prescribed by a veterinarian. It's also essential to ensure no neighbors are putting out rodent poison, as poisoned mice can be lethal if eaten by a cat.

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A cat with a heart condition could be harmed by a lowpowered electric fence wire or become injured by becoming tangled in an inadequately supported fence.

I work from home and am always here to monitor things.

However, I'd not be comfortable leaving my cats out if I was away for more than a quick walk down the road.

Different areas have different environmental hazards, so always consult with a local vet to ensure no poisoned plants, snakes, lizards, or birds of prey are likely to cause adult cats' problems in the daytime. Cats or kittens under six pounds can be vulnerable to birds of prey in most areas and shouldn't be outside without protective roofing.

Carl also provided the valuable tip that cats should always be brought in an hour before dusk, as otherwise, they become challenging to round up.

Before releasing them, I spent about a month in the yard with Willie and Hank, wearing bright-colored walking jackets attached to leashes. I followed them, closely supervising them and the dragging leashes to see if they'd go over the fence or find some other mischief! When I could trust them to stay put, I made them wear trackers for the first couple of months in case the fence didn't work.

The general concept easily adapts to various situations and lifestyles. The cat-proof fence is working well for us, and my Savannahs seem much happier and healthier, especially Hank, who was desperate to be in the yard! He's become a lot more relaxed, playful, and affectionate. Willie was happy enough with just the enclosures and was getting tubby and trimmed down. Everything flows much better now that they can hang out in the orchard and freely participate in my indoor/outdoor lifestyle.

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NitroKatzsavannahs.com NitroKatzSavannahs@gmail.com Facebook.com/NitroKatzSavannahs Located in Connecticut

Small home-based TICA-registered hobby breeder of guaranteed healthy, happy, stunning, and prespoiled Savannah kittens! Currently focusing on producing the highest quality F2B, F3C, and F4SBT kittens. Additional generations soon. Please send us an email for additional information.

Rebecca Cleveland 425.443.5675 VolbarreSavannahs@gmail.com

Clawson's Ranch Home to Clawson Savannahs Raising quality Savannahs Located in Nevada.

www.Clawsonsranch.com

"Lovelee Savannah" is a TICA Registered Cattery located near Palm Springs, CA. Our cattery proudly follows the TICA Code of Ethics and is an upstanding member of the Savannah Cat Association. Our focus is producing lovely, healthy, and loving TICA Registered F3 and SBT Generation Savannah kittens. Our kittens are extremely affectionate, well socialized, and comfortable around you and your family.

*F3 Kittens Available Born 3/17/2021

Kobi’s Escape and Capture Story Written by: Laura Lawson Kobi's Owner

On January 21, 2021, it was 47 degrees here in the Kansas City, MO, area.

I was at work, and my husband was at home. My husband entered the house from the garage, leaving the door open, as he often does. Kobi, our two-year-old F1 Savannah, ran out the door into the backyard. My husband followed him and ran back into the garage to get back in the house. But the entrance to the house was now closed. Kobi ran back out of the garage, and the pursuit continued. My husband followed him across our backyard into the neighbor's yard, and Kobi ran in front of the neighbor's house. When my husband reached the neighbor's front yard, he'd lost sight of Kobi.

We live in a rural area with 1,000 acres of woods surrounding us, including four acres of woods on our property.

During my break, I called my husband that day, which I never do, to give him some news we'd been waiting for, and he sounded out of breath. I asked what was going on, and he told me Kobi had gotten outside, and he couldn't find him. My panic set in! He told me he'd walked 9 miles calling him and using his favorite toy to get him to come out from wherever he was hiding. I immediately said I needed to leave to find my baby. I got home at about 3:45 and searched for Kobi until dark (about 5:30 pm). I went to bed, heartbroken with the knowledge he was out there terrified, having never before been outside. Kobi's microchipped and wasn't wearing a collar. That night, I posted on every social media site I could think of and registered him with every lost pet registry. We left the garage door open enough for him to get in and put clothes that smelled like home on all sides of the house.

January 22, 2021 - I printed Paw Boost fliers and took them to my three neighbors on our street and three neighbors down another street. We also set traps with his favorite food (shrimp) and covered the traps with familiar blankets from inside the house. I also threw a tshirt I'd worn all day on the front porch—NO KOBI. January 23, 2021 - I enlisted a friend with a thermal imaging camera to help look in the woods, around the neighbor's houses, and under everything imaginable.

There were no sightings. We did have over 1,000 shares on social media, but still NO KOBI. It was approximately 50 hours of him missing, and I'm heartbroken.

January 24, 2021 – NO KOBI January 25, 2021 – 87 hours missing, and temperatures are dropping into the teens in the Kansas City area.

People suggested someone may have taken Kobi in, but I know better because he'd NEVER come to anyone.

Strangers raised money for a reward and also set traps in their yards. The love for this boy and the help was overwhelming. It started raining, and everything I'd put outside with our scent got wet. I feared we'd lose the smell. I contacted a pet detective/trapper, paid a consultation fee, and discussed bringing her dogs if necessary. She assured us an indoor-only cat wouldn't typically go more than 1500 feet from their home. She suggested spraying the trees with nasty mackerel juice for four houses in all directions leading to our home. I made big bright posters to keep the fact that he's missing fresh in everyone's minds. We also put up trail cameras to notify our phones of movement near the traps.

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January 26, 2021 – Still nothing. There are no sightings and no notifications from the cameras.

January 27, 2021 – There are no sightings or notifications from the cameras.

January 28, 2021 – We had no notifications from the cameras. The phone went off at 2:30 am, causing us to jump out of bed quickly to check, but the cameras weren't there. I was a total disaster and a crying mess at this point. I couldn't focus on life. I just wanted my baby home.

At about 12:30 pm, we received a phone call from the neighbor who lives two houses over, saying she'd spotted Kobi on her deck! Once again, I was at the office and told them I was going home. We were talking in the neighbor's front yard when their son said Kobi was lying on the back porch inside a wagon. We went to the back of the house, and there he was! MY BOY! I talked to him briefly as I had his toy and some fish, hoping he'd come to me. He had a blank look in his eyes as if in shock. I heard this is "survival mode," as an indoor-only kitty who gets outside doesn't recognize anyone or anything as they don't recognize their surroundings. They're trying to survive in an environment they've never seen. Kobi and I have an incredible bond, and I felt so heartbroken when he didn't seem to recognize me. I didn't want to grab at him for fear he'd bolt.

I talked to him for a bit, and then he went to the front of the house and disappeared again. Once again, I still didn't have my boy! The neighbors agreed to let us move our traps and cameras to their homes, so we did that night.

January 29, 2021—We'd heard nothing from the neighbors about seeing Kobi again. I wanted to camp out there since I knew where he was hiding. Around 9:30 p.m. that evening, the phone alerted me to movement. The picture I received was of Kobi halfway in the trap. The following image I received was of the trap door closed. I called the neighbors and had them check, and sure enough, my boy was in the trap! I was so excited and in tears.

We picked Kobi up and brought him home. Within 30 seconds of entering the house and exiting the trap, he was headbutting and purring!

A big thanks to Lisa from The Feline Finders in Little Rock, AR. She was amazing!

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Kobi Caught on the Camera Entering the Trap

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Feline Pyometra: Symptoms, Causes, and Treatment The word "Pyometra" derives from the Latin "Pyo," meaning pus, and "metra," meaning uterus. Feline Pyometra is an abscessed, pus-filled, infected uterus. Toxins and bacteria leak across the uterine walls and into the bloodstream, causing lifethreatening toxic effects. Without treatment, death is inevitable.

What are the precursors to Pyometra?

Pyometra is a serious issue and can be a life-threatening condition that requires quick and aggressive treatment. Feline Pyometra happens from many different things, with E. coli and Staph infections being the leading causes. Pyometra is a secondary infection due to hormonal changes in an un-spayed cat's reproductive tract. Following a "heat" cycle (feline estrus), the progesterone levels can remain elevated for several weeks.

With each heat cycle, the uterine lining engorges in preparation for pregnancy. Hormonal changes can activate infection during this time. With each estrus cycle, the possibility of a cyst can form. If the cyst does form, it becomes fluid-filled. Eventually, some tissue engorgement becomes excessive or persistent (a condition called "cystic endometrial hyperplasia"). This lush glandular tissue is ripe for infection.

The uterine cyst will start secreting fluids. These fluids create an ideal environment for bacteria to habituate and grow.

Another side effect of the high progesterone levels is preventing the uterine walls from contracting and expelling the fluids and bacteria. During estrus, the cervix opens, and bacteria are allowed to enter. Bacteria ascend from the vagina, and the uterus becomes infected, getting trapped as the cervix closes and is ultimately pus-filled. The warm and wet environment is perfect for the growth of the bacteria. E-coli and streptococcus are part of the normal bacteria in the vagina and are a frequent cause of bacterial Pyometra.

By: Gary Fulgham 25-year Savannah breeder

Estrus, WBCs cannot enter the uterus. This regular occurrence allows the male's sperm to enter the female's productive tract without harm or death from the WBCs. It's this combination that leads to the development of Pyometra.

What are the symptoms of Pyometra?

Unfortunately, there aren't always symptoms, but fortunately, Pyometra is not nearly as common as one might think.

Classically, the patient is a younger female cat. Usually, a cat has just finished a heat cycle in the previous 1-2 months. She may develop a poor appetite and vomit or drink an excessive amount of water.

In the more usual "open Pyometra," the cervix is open, and the purulent uterine contents can drip out; thus, a smelly vaginal discharge is usually apparent. A female with open Pyometra is much easier to treat because the cervix is already open.

There's also a form of feline Pyometra called a "closed Pyometra," meaning the cervix is closed. There's no vaginal discharge in these cases, and the clinical presentation is more difficult to diagnose. These cats also tend to be sicker than those with open Pyometra due to the retention of toxic uterine contents. Lab work shows a pattern typical of a widespread infection, often helpful in narrowing down the diagnosis.

Radiographs may show a gigantic, distended uterus--though sometimes this isn't obvious, and an ultrasound is needed to confirm the diagnosis.

Another factor that contributes to Pyometra is white blood cells (WBC). While WBCs naturally fight bacteria, during The illustrations of both a normal uterus and Pyometra filled uterus

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Pyometra can be caused by a secondary systemic bacterial infection, post-copulation, cystic endometrial hyperplasia, estrogen (to treat vaginitis), post-partum metritis, or spontaneously.

If a person decides to treat Pyometra with prostaglandins and the treatment is successful, the cat "must" be bred on the very next heat cycle. If not bred, the likelihood of a recurrence is very high.

Treating a female with Pyometra with prostaglandins.

Is there an alternative to surgery?

Antibiotics alone WILL NOT cure Pyometra. Treatment or spaying is the only two treatments. In the late 1980s, another treatment protocol became available that might spare a valuable animal's reproductive capacity. Here, particular hormones called "prostaglandins" are given as injections to cause the uterus to contract and expel its contents. The primary prostaglandin used is (Lutalyse®), which causes cramping—a week of hospitalization is necessary for this treatment. Lutalyse® isn't advised for "closed" Pyometra because the "prostaglandins" can cause the cervix to open.

The risks of using a hormone to force the uterus to contract can also cause it to explode, killing the female. I've successfully treated a Maine Coon, and a Savannah Cat with closed Pyometra, and both went on to have successful litters.

Here are some vital statistics that you should know about this form of prostaglandin treatment: •. The success rate for treating open-cervix Pyometra is 7590% • The success rate for treating closed-cervix Pyometra is 2530%

First and foremost, please do not try to treat at home. A veterinarian MUST be involved. An ultrasound to diagnose and two or three ultrasounds during treatment are essential.

Treating Pyometra can be pretty expensive.

A patient is injected with prostaglandin twice daily. This injection forces the uterus to contract, squeezing out the pus.

The treatment requires the use of two antibiotics together, Baytril and Clavamox. After three days of treatment, another ultrasound is necessary to determine if the pus-filled uterus is getting smaller. If so, the therapy continues, with another ultrasound towards the end of treatment. Some cats may require ten days of treatment.

Once the prostaglandin treatment is finished, antibiotic therapy will continue for two more weeks with the Baytril and Clavamox, followed by two more weeks with the Clavamox alone, equaling one month of treatment.

I kept mine on Amoxicillin with the veterinarian until we bred them again. With the Maine Coon, it was only three weeks later when she came into heat. The Savannah cat was nearly two months old.

What's likely to happen if I do nothing?

• The rate of recurrence of the disease is 50-75%

The chance of successful treatment without surgery or prostaglandin treatment is meager. The toxic effects of the bacteria will be fatal without quick treatment. If the cervix is closed, it's also possible for the uterus to rupture, spilling the infection into the abdominal cavity, which is also deadly.

• The chances of subsequent successful breeding are 5075% PROS: There's a possibility of a future pregnancy for the patient (though often there's too much uterine scarring).

Avoid surgery with concurrent problems that pose an additional anesthetic risk. If a female cat lacks significant genetic value, it's best to spay.

This article is by Gary Fulgham and may not be copied, reproduced, or reprinted without written authorization.

CONS: 1.) Feline Pyometra can reoccur. 2.) There's a possibility of uterine rupture with contractions. A ruptured uterus would cause peritonitis and escalate the life-threatening nature of the disease.

Disclaimer: Any medical advice given here is strictly the author's opinion and not intended as advice. It's not intended to diagnose or offer treatment for an individual animal. Always consult a qualified veterinarian for any medical condition.

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Have Savannah Will Travel by: Dr. Jenny Biehunko, DVM; Resident ACVB Dr. Jenny Biehunko has practiced general medicine with a special interest in behavior for 17 years. Jenny has completed over 1200 hours of continuing education in veterinary behavior, learning theory, and training. In 2015, she was accepted as a Resident in the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists and is on track to receive her specialty as a Board Certified Veterinary Behaviorist. She's a member of the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior, the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants, and the Pet Professional Guild. Dr. Jenny is owned by three dogs, five Arabian horses, and five cats, including two Savannah Cats, Niffler (F2) and Kneazle (F3)

I have a confession: I’m a massive Harry Potter geek. (Well, I guess that isn’t a very well-kept secret since I named my two Savannahs after creatures from the Harry Potter Universe, “Niffler” and “Kneazle.”

As such, I spend an inordinate amount of time traveling to meet my “Potterhead Squad” at Universal Studios Orlando and visiting our beloved Wizarding World. Kneazle, my F3 girl, is our “Squad” mascot; no trip is complete without her. In her two years of life, she’s traveled with me on at least 20 trips to Orlando and elsewhere and has become an expert traveler.

So, for this month’s article, we decided to share tips on how to plan adventures with your kitty, hopeful that regular travel will resume as the COVID vaccine becomes readily available.

Before we start, however, a COVID caveat:

Kneazle, repping her Hogwarts House, Slytherin.

It looks like our feline friends are susceptible to contracting COVID19. So far, the virus is self-limiting in cats and usually causes only mild to moderate symptoms. However, there’s currently no vaccine available for kitties, and social distancing is as crucial for them as for us. Don’t let others handle or hold your kitty; maintain six feet for them.

If possible, avoid commercial flights with your cat (for now), and choose hotels you trust to maintain proper COVID protocol. For instance, the Lowe’s hotels at Universal don’t offer housekeeping services during your stay and let the rooms remain vacant for 24 hours before housekeeping enters to clean between clients. They also require all guests to wear masks anywhere on the property and must have their temperature taken daily.

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Kneazle, getting her Halloween Horror Nights on.

TIPS FOR STRESS-FREE KITTY TRAVEL Before Leaving Home —Create a “home away from home.” Choose a comfy carrier weeks before your trip. Leave it out in your home so the kitty can investigate. Start offering super high-value toys and treats inside the carrier and a soft, inviting blanket to ensure a carrier is a happy place that smells and feels like home, providing a haven on your trip.

For cats under 15 pounds, I love the Sleepy Pod. You can unzip the top and remove it, creating a kitty bed cats love to nap in at home. When you’re ready to travel, zip the top, and the kitty has a safe travel bed that belts into your car seat. https://sleepypod.com/ A second option Kneazle and I love is the HPZ Luxury 3-in-1 Pet Rover Deluxe Pet Stroller. This sturdy and heavy-duty carriage has a large, roomy carrier compartment that holds pets up to 50 pounds. It snaps in and out of the stroller and becomes a separate carrier or car seat that buckles securely into the car. Kneazle loves wheeling around the beautiful grounds of the Hard Rock Hotel in this Cadillac of strollers, and I love not having to carry all 15 pounds of her! The stroller also gives Kneazle a comfortable, happy "room" to experience outdoor adventures.

Ask what documentation they require, as each is different.

Most will require proof of a rabies vaccine and a Health Certificate from your vet. The length of time a Health Certificate is valid varies significantly between companies, so be sure to call ahead.

NEVER try to sneak your kitty into a non-pet-friendly hotel.

Not only is it against the policy, but you must be very transparent with the front desk if you have a kitty in the room.

Ensuring the hotel you book is specifically "cat-friendly." Many hotels advertise as "pet-friendly" when, in fact, they only allow dogs. I always request "no housekeeping" and make sure this is on record to ensure no one enters the room while I'm gone. Should I need the room cleaned, I call the front desk to schedule service for when Kneazle and I are exploring.

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Plan a Trip to the Vet

—Trash bags for used food cans and dirty litter

Be sure your kitty is healthy and up-to-date on vaccines, and obtain any needed documentation for your trip. Ask your vet about anti-anxiety medication, such as gabapentin, to have on board if your kitty should need it (and be sure to get enough to do a "trial run" before you leave to see how the kitty reacts).

Ask about anti-emetic medications, like "Cerenia," if your pet gets motion sick in the car or plane. Be sure to stock up on any other medication your pet takes so you have plenty for your trip.

Have the receptionist print out essential medical history records, especially if the kitty has ongoing medical conditions.

Finally, ask your vet for recommendations about vet and emergency clinics in the city you're traveling to if you have an issue.

—A small broom and dustpan —Spot cleaner, in case of any accidents; Anti Icky Poo is my favorite.

Anti Icky Poo —A Travel No-spill Bowl —Bottled water because cats are often suspicious of water that tastes different than their normal water. I use bottled water in Kneazle’s bowl for a week before we leave, so her water tastes like “home.”

—Travel thermos, for offering water on the go Good2Go Stainless Dog Drinking Water Bottle

How and What to Pack I use these convenient bags to pack in; they come with travel bowls that collapse and pack flat and soft food containers.

—Feliway® spray and diffuser. These pheromone sprays and diffusers make any new environment seem home to your kitty.

Feliway Spray and Diffuser

Mobile Dog Gear Weekender Bag I usually pack two bags: a small one for the car or airplane and a larger one for the hotel. I always include the following: —Her regular food and many favorite treats keep her happy and comfortable as we travel. Churu Purée is her most adored food. Should anything make her concerned, a quick taste of this will make it all better!

—A blanket that smells like home —Litter box and litter: a collapsible litter box with lightweight litter works well for smaller cats. For larger cats, I use disposable boxes that come with litter in them.

Disposable Litter and Tray Pet Comments Travel Litter Box

Churu Puree —Health certificate and documentation

—A few of her favorite toys —First Aid kit

—Puzzle/food toys to keep her occupied while I'm gone.

Preventive Vet First Aid

Puzzle/food toys —A bed also serves as a "hidey-hole," where she feels safe.

Her favorite is the Cat Cave wool felt dome that packs flat to save space.

Cat Cave Dome

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—Harness, collar, and ID: Kneazle is happy and comfortable in her walking jacket. If your pet is not, I highly suggest acclimatizing her to one. Here's a link to the process for that.

Kneazle wears her walking jacket with a leash that clips her in whenever we're out in her stroller.

Train Your Cat to Walk on a Leash Before each trip, I go to my local pet store, where I print out two I.D. tags with the information for where I'll be staying and my cell number. I attach one to her walking jacket and one to a safety/quick-release collar, which she wears in the room when I leave her--just if the worst should happen and she was to get out.

—I also use this pet tracker attached to her safety collar.

—Our plane gets very hot in the summer and cold in the winter before takeoff, so I invested in this portable air conditioning unit to keep Kneazle cool:

Pet Tracker

Traveling to Your Destination Kneazle and I are lucky in that her daddy has a small plane. So, we travel in the car or with Daddy on the plane.

Be sure to lock all windows in the car, as you don't want Kitty stepping on any controls and rolling them down when she's in it.

—I set up spill-proof bowls with food and water, a litter box, and a "hidey-hole" car seat in the car or plane.

Cordless Fan And this portable, USB-powered, heated blanket for warmth.

Heated Pet Blanket —Be sure the kitty is confined in her carrier at each stop before opening doors.

Setting Up the Hotel Room For a Home Away From Home

—Keep kitty confined in her carrier or buckled into her car seat; I generally let Kneazle out, walk around, visit the litter box, and check out her food and water bowls for a few minutes every two —I always check in and set Kneazle up in the room before anything else. hours.

—If your kitty gets travel sick or anxious, be sure to give her anti-nausea/anti-anxiety medication at least two hours before getting into the vehicle to leave.

—Temperature regulation: cats are highly temperaturesensitive; they get cold and hot very quickly and can't regulate body temperature like humans.

Please ensure the front desk has your cell number on file if they need to contact you while you're away.

—I spray the room with Feliway® and plug in a diffuser.

I arrange her hiding areas, toys, and feeding station and place her litter box away from food, water, and the bed. Leaving the hotel room closet open can also offer the kitty an additional hiding area.

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Kneazle loves looking out the hotel windows, as she always hopes a lizard friend will show up to play. I put a comfy chair or her bed in front of a window to give her a happy perch for her viewing pleasure.

—If the hotel is prepared for a remote camera, these can provide a way for you to check on your pet while you are away.

Pet Cubes When these cameras are active in your hotel room, they allow you to view your pet while away, and specific models will also let you toss a treat remotely. They allow me to look in on Kneazle without leaving the parks. If she’s asleep somewhere, she’ll quickly come out when she hears the noise associated with a treat.

It’s important to note that you’ll need a password from the hotel and their permission to set these up. Call your hotel ahead to see if this is possible.

It’s helpful to take an overnight trip or two (close to home) with your kitty to see how she does before jumping into a more extended, distant vacation.

Here’s to happy traveling!

However, other cats may be intimidated by unfamiliar sights and people. For those cats, close the blinds and offer perches away from the windows.

Look around the room for potential dangers—block access to any heating or cooling vents your kitty could access. Unplug and put away any cords that might be chewed, and remove any potentially dangerous items the kitty might eat (put those coffee samples away in a drawer). Many toiletries can be hazardous if ingested, so put those away, as well.

Before Leaving Be sure to leave ample time to chill in the room with your kitty before leaving her alone; overnight is preferable.

—Give any anti-anxiety medication at least two hours before leaving.

—Leaving the T.V. on in the room can help block any scary ambient/hallway noise.

—I always stuff a couple of food toys with very high-value items for Kneazle to snack on while I’m away

Kneazle and I were exhausted and happy after a day at Universal.

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Salem's Pride F2 Kittens Available For a Deposit DOB 3/12/21. Kittens will be ready at 12-14 weeks. We have (3) females and (2) males.

All pet kittens are spayed or neutered, microchipped, harness-trained, vetted, and vaccinated. FeLV and FIV tested negative, genetically tested, TICA registered, and oneyear health guaranteed per contract.

Salem's Pride is a small in-home cattery outside Ann Arbor, MI. We pay strict attention to TICA show standards and healthy, wellsocialized, Serval-looking Savannah kittens.

We're proud to focus on breeding kittens raised underfoot.

You may call or email Lynda Ryskamp at 248.675.7398. lyndaryp@gmail.com. https://www.salemspridesavannahs.com

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Use promo code "Sv Lover" for 20% off each item you order!

In-stock gold pieces are marked 40% off (no additional discount on gold closeouts)

Cat-Safe Houseplant Review: Beautiful, But Deadly Easter Flowers for Cats and Great Alternatives

Deadly/Toxic Spring Flowers

Safe Alternatives For Spring Flowers

Daffodil

Rose

Tulip

Sunflower

Hyacinth

Zinnia

Iris

Gerber Daisy

Lilly

Snapdragon

Amaryllis

Petunia

Azaela

Orchid

Gladiolus

African Violet

Hydrangea

Chrysan themum

Breeder Spotlight An interview with FIG TREE FELINE'S Patrick Kelley

Savannah Breeding with Patrick Kelley of Fig Tree Felines How'd you come up with your cattery name of "Fig Tree Felines"?

Besides Savannahs, I have an interest in growing fruit trees! One of my favorites is the fig tree. My sister Cappy suggested "Fig Tree Felines" because she saw how I posted pictures of my figs and how I nurtured them like my cats. I live in the Philippines, and Mediterranean figs are challenging to grow. Every fruit is quite precious if you're lucky enough to get one. I liked the different sounds of the name, so that became my new cattery name.

Please tell us about yourself, your background, family, and occupation?

I live in the Philippines with my daughter Colleen, who's seven years old. I grew up in a family of five kids, the second oldest. My Dad was a heart surgeon, and my mother was a housewife. I have always loved animals. As a kid, I had chickens and ducks, and we always had a family cat and dog. I was fascinated with wild animals and daydreamed of being a zookeeper and an actor.

Now, at 58 years old, I have an online business running pet-related websites, hosting and maintaining several cattery sites, and BengalBreed.com. Most importantly, I own and maintain SavannahCat.com, the first website where people can learn about the Savannah Cat breed. I started this site over 25 years ago.

I started with Savannahs in the early 1990s after visiting a lady in Tarzana, CA, Jan Giacinto, a breeder of Bengal cats. While at her home, I caught a glimpse of her Serval cat. I'd never before seen a cat like this. It was huge in comparison to Bengal cats. I asked Jan if anyone had ever created a hybrid of a cat like the Serval, and she said she'd heard of someone--but they weren't worth anything--and brought my attention back to her Bengals. But it was too late. I'd already figured out how a Serval/domestic cross would become the next cat breed.

I tracked down the two women involved in this rare Serval/domestic cross, Suzie Mustacio of Alabama and Judee Frank of Pennsylvania. Both women thought the cross was exciting but needed to discover the worthiness of becoming a new breed.

My background wasn't with cats--other than reading about domestic, wild, and hybrid cats at the library. I was obsessed and read everything I could get my hands on, but I needed to be an expert. I was sure this breed (which Suzie Mustacio had already coined as the "Savannah") would be a big hit. Suzie had come to own "Savannah," the F1 Judee Frank had bred, as Judy wasn't interested in pursuing the Serval/domestic cross.

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At first, not many people believed in it, but Suzie Mustacio did. She bred her F1, Savannah, to a Turkish Angora, Albert. They had some kittens, but all died young for unknown reasons. One female survived, an F2 named Kitty, which Suzie gave to me. This wasn't much to start a whole breed with, so from there, I set out looking for other cat breeders who wanted to join me in the Savannah breed.

What's the best part about breeding?

The best part of breeding cats is the kittens. The second best part is calling up your really close cat friends, getting all the news about what’s going on in their lives with the breed, and exchanging ideas.

Do you recommend people try breeding Savannahs? Why/Why not?

There are so many breeders! I recommend that people enjoy their Savannah pets and leave the hard work and expense to the breed. It's challenging to break even financially for a new (and most) Savannah breeder, and it's tough to establish a name for themselves. It takes years and years to accomplish both of these things.

What's the best tip or advice you've received from another breeder?

It's hard to say because everything I know is from other breeders. The best advice for all cat owners is to keep up with their cats' vaccinations and be very careful when introducing a new cat to their home or cattery. FIP, Feline Leukemia, and other viruses are real and devastating. I can't stress how important it is to keep your cats protected from them.

What's the biggest strength of the Savannah breed?

If a person or family is looking for a cat who loves to interact with them, with cat toys, and go on trips with them or a leash, this is the cat for you. The Savannah is a very healthy breed, and if fed the proper diet, it will live a long and active life.

What's the most important thing a breeder does?

The most important thing a breeder does is be a spokesman for the breed. The Savannah breed attracts curiosity, so be prepared to answer any questions.

Do you feed your Savannahs a raw diet and do you recommend raw feeding?

I feed raw and my favorite kibble, a local one called "Special Cat" (a reasonably new premium dry cat food manufactured exclusively for the Philippine market), which uses rabbit and minimal additives. We have access to many farm-raised quail where I live, and the cats lovIt'sem. It's close to the size and makeup of an animal a cat their size would hunt in the wild, and my cats love them.

Do you own a Serval? What generations do you breed and how many litters per year on average?

I have servals, but they are getting old and are no longer used in my breeding program. I currently breed F5 SBT kittens. I usually have one or two litters per year.

Do you have a favorite Savannah Cat website?

Yes! SavannahCat.com. We just added videos on the first page, and of course, there are many breeders from all over the world to visit and correspond with.

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Do you or have you bred any other type of cat or animal?

Besides Savannahs, I've bred some other species of animals, including chickens, pigeons, rabbits, and dairy goats.

What else would you like the Savannah world to know about you and your cattery?

It’s really a good time for people looking for a pet Savannah. Please take your time and research the breed and the breeders you're interested in purchasing a cat from. You're choosing a cat that'll be with you for 18 years approximately, so it's a big commitment.

I wish this new magazine well, and I look forward to watching it grow, evolve, and find its niche in this marvelous breed I've been with so long.

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WWW.MYNWOODCATJACKETS.COM Email Address: mynwood@btinternet.com

Contact number: 01445731134

Featured Artist

Maria Harrison of Mynwood Custom Cat Harnesses

Who We Are and Our History?

My name is Maria Harrison. I am the designer and seamstress of the original cat jacket/harness, and I have a wealth of knowledge about my jackets and cats. I work alongside my husband, Dale, with a bit of help from our daughter, Jorgia.

We're from Yorkshire, living in the Scottish Highlands.

We lived in Yorkshire, had holidays in Scotland, and dreamed of living here one day. After an adventure in our motorhome to visit the Highlands, we fell in love with the area and decided to make our dreams come true. In July 2019, after selling our home in Yorkshire, we made the 8 ½ hour journey with all our animals to start our new life here. We're a formidable team and work very hard together.

We're proud owners of a Bengal, Otis, and a Maine Coon, Barney, along with four dogs too! Twelve years ago, when we brought Otis home for the first time, we realized the many harnesses on the market weren't secure and, therefore, not feline escape-proof. Our cats were quickly escaping from them by simply 'reversing' out of them. We began developing our jacket design using our experiences and research. Over the years, our designs evolved using opinions and feedback from cat breeders and other owners.

We make the jackets to measure (bespoke) to suit your cat's measurements and requirements and use quality fabrics. They fasten securely around the neck and chest with long strips of Velcro®. All jackets are reversible with black cotton or another choice the customer can specify in the note section of the order.

The jackets are highly durable, triple-sewn for strength, hardwearing, and machine washable. They're easy and quick to put on and adjust to your cat. They have a secure, welded steel D-ring with extra reinforced stitching to attach your lead for walking. Be sure to check out our webpage about Lead Training and our video explaining how to put on the jacket.

The jackets are NOT designed to leave the cat outside unattended, attached to an object. Although we can't guarantee the jackets are escape-proof, we've worked to get them as close as possible. Ensuring a correct fit and completing the training before embarking outside is crucial.

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Our design fulfills the six main aims for success: Security Strength Practicality Design Comfort Customer Satisfaction

How’d the Name “Mynwood” Come About?

Our story and beginning started in 2003 when we moved into our first home in Yorkshire. The house was called ‘Mynwood’ and named after its previous owner, Minnie Woodhouse. We discovered after moving in that Minnie was a lovely elderly lady who was popular in the village. She’d lived in Mynwood all her married life with her husband, who sadly passed away a few years before her and before we bought the house.

As we moved into Mynwood, we discovered an old aerial photograph in the loft. It showed Minnie holding a cup of tea in the garden while looking up at the camera. We kept that picture as it felt like Minnie was watching over us in our new home-her old one.

In 2008, when I had my first Bengal kitten, Otis, I decided to start making jackets. Mynwood was the obvious name for the company. Minnie would continue to watch over all the cats as she had us in our home.

Do you have a talent you'd like to feature for a future edition? Pitch us your idea here!

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Clawson Ranch https://clawsonsranch.com/ We have F5, F6, and F7 kittens available! Please check out our website! Our kittens come with up-to-date vaccinations, vetted, health tested, microchipped, and a one-year health guarantee.

Clawson's Ranch is a small, family-run program located in northeastern Nevada. We're dedicated to producing high-quality, healthy, and strong Savannah kittens. All our cats are registered, and PRA and PK N/N. Our cattery's registered with TICA as ClawsonSavannah. Our dedication is to the well-being and happiness of the kittens we produce. We take pride in our socialization program to improve outgoing type kittens. We support those who enjoy outdoor exploration with their cats, including hiking and camping.

We only place kittens in homes that will provide the utmost care and love for their entire lives. We require approval with our pre-adoption questionnaire before placing a reservation.

Whiskers & Wicks Feline-Safe Candles As these candles are inspired by my passion for my feline companions and fosters, a portion of all proceeds is donated to felines in need in Ohio at Columbus Cares For Cats. You'll even receive a note regarding the feline the funding went to!

Our Wax: Made with high quality, all-natural 100% soy wax that is bio-degradable, eco-friendly, and sustainable. Free of paraffin, petroleum, beeswax products, and dyes.Our Scents: Created by blending therapeutic, non-diluted essential oils (diluted oils typically contain toxic chemicals). We do NOT mix any fragrances as these can be toxic to both humans and companion animals. Our Wax Melts come in biodegradable, compostable, unbleached sachets. *Please note: Any animal may have a different reaction to certain essential oils, so always burn candles in a space where your companions can leave (or enter!) the room depending on how it may be affecting them the time.

ORDER YOUR CANDLES HERE: https://tidd.ly/3ojf4Jf Cedarwood: Offers a soothing effect to reduce stress and has sedative qualities that can help promote sleep.

Lemongrass: Anti-inflammatory properties and can promotes awareness.

Rosemary: Opens up cognitive function (great for training your cat). It can assist with depression, mental fatigue, and forgetfulness as it can stimulate memory.

Frankincense: Eases mental and emotional distress, minimizes distractions, and improves concentration; encourages tranquility and confidence.

Choosing the Best Water Bowl For Your Cats Written by: Jamison Roberts, Savannah owner

Introduction It's a common trope that cats hate water, yet just like every other living being, they need it to survive. While cats on a wet diet get a large percentage of their hydration needs from their food, they still require fresh water.

The needs of those who provide the water need to be considered, primarily ease of use and ease of maintenance. You never want to find yourself in a situation where cleaning the water bowl is so much work that you say, "I'll do it tomorrow!"

If not most people, many sit out a simple bowl, put some water in it, and top it off as needed. That's one way to go, but if you have playful or ornery cats, you might find the bowl is often empty, upside down, or filled with filth like cat hair and litter.

The answer seems simple: Get one of those water-recirculating bowls. The water will last a long time and stay fresher, right? Not so fast.

What about the stability of the bowl so ornery cats can't knock it over?

How about an enclosed reservoir so stray hair, dirt, and cat litter do not foul the system?

Another consideration is a recirculation system that minimizes the water's surface area, thereby preventing the water bowl from being an air purifier that pulls dust out of the air as it runs.

Finally, the bowl is easy to clean and maintain. This point wasn't obvious to me at first, but after months of use, I grew to dread the weekly cleaning of the water bowl.

What Makes a Bad Cat Water Bowl?

The best way to answer the question “What makes a bad cat water bowl?” is to examine several bowls we've used and experienced their shortcomings. We'll take a close look at three examples currently in our possession.

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Example 1 – Typical recirculating water bowl with small reservoir and open bowl

This is a fairly standard recirculating water bowl. It features a small reservoir on top, which allows water to be gravityfed when needed, a fountain nozzle about three inches above the bowl, a small filter housing between the open bowl and the pump house, and finally, the bowl where the water resides.

The primary issue with this design is the open water bowl and the location of the filter. The filter merely protects the pump from debris; it serves no purpose in cleaning the cats' water! If a cat sticks their paws into the water, whatever is on its feet now floats around in the bowl. This is typically cat litter and cat hair.

As the water level goes down, the small reservoir on top will drain into the pump house and be circulated back into the dirty water. Another issue with such a large area of open water is that the air we breathe is dirty as well, and open water will collect that dust out of the air, further gumming up the works.

This situation isn't ideal for the cats when it comes to drinking and is not ideal for cleaning either. The bowl will eventually develop slime in the bottom and on the filter unless you clean it every other day.

The small reservoir isn't much help, as it's just a fraction of the overall water volume. In fact, our cats used it as something to knock off when they were in a playful mood.

Another minor issue is with recirculating bowls featuring a nozzle that's some distance above the water, and that's because they are noisier. Some people don't mind the sound of trickling water; however, I'm not one of those people!

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Example 2 – Simple stainless steel recirculating bowl

This recirculating bowl has a much simpler design and features only two stamped stainless steel pieces. It has an open water bowl design, and the fountain nozzle discharges along with the cover plate, which reduces the sound of trickling water.

As with the prior example, the biggest issue is the open water bowl, which causes the same cleanliness issues as explained in example 1.

In addition to that, although less evident from the picture, an equally big issue is the stability of the bowl. Perhaps for aesthetic reasons, the bowl's base is quite a bit smaller in diameter compared to the top of the bowl. This gives cats ample leverage to push down on one edge and spill the contents of their bowl all over your floor! I would quantify that as definitely not a good thing!

I like the simplicity of the design, with a half cover that merely sits on the bowl. There are no sharp corners to make cleaning difficult. However, the risk of spilling and constantly dirty water makes this a no-go for me.

The lack of an extra water reservoir isn't a big deal, as my experience has shown that recirculating bowls usually need to be cleaned before they're entirely out of water.

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Example 3 – Overly complex recirculating water bowl

This recirculating water bowl features a larger capacity than the previous two bowls. It has a big open bowl, an equally sized extra reservoir, and a third water-holding area in the filter house.

As with the previous two bowls, this water bowl has all the same issues due to its open water bowl design, as well as some unique issues. The biggest issues of this bowl are the overly complex design and large capacity.

With a capacity as large as this, it's tempting to let the bowl “do its thing” for a week or even ten days at a time.

However, this causes the bowl to get extremely dirty and slimy. That's when the bowl's complexity becomes a problem; it's a real pain to clean!

The bowl breaks down into four main parts and a couple of smaller parts.

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Example 3 – Overly complex recirculating water bowl

Two parts are missing from this picture. One part is the charcoal filter, which slots into the filter housing, and a small plastic screen that sits in the slots between the pump house reservoir and the open bowl. The latter part was small enough that it fell into the garbage disposal when cleaning the bowl, only to be noticed when the disposal later made a terrible grinding noise, thus destroying the screen!

Let's start with the closed reservoir. It sounds like a great idea to have a bunch of clean water ready to be gravity-fed as needed into the bowl, and in fact, that's essentially why we bought this bowl initially. However, as I've touched on before, this leads to less frequent bowl cleanings, making it harder to clean when you have to.

And with the closed reservoir, that's terrible as the reservoir's opening is only about three inches in diameter.

That means most adults can't stick their hands into the container to clean it, and dishwashers are of limited use.

That leaves filling it with hot water and shaking it to clean it. That's not the end of the world, but not exactly the best way to clean things and a general pain in the butt to deal with.

The filter housing is just as challenging to clean but with the added issues of some very sharp and tight corners in the design process. There must be a better way to get into every corner, crack, or crevice of this thing. No, look how over-designed it is!

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Example 3 – Overly complex recirculating water bowl

Good luck getting the slime out of all the corners and angles of the filter housing!

The final issue with this particular design is that the filter housing can be displaced from the bowl without too much pressure. One of our cats was obsessed with taking the lid off the housing and pulling the filter out, and he often dislodged the filter housing, causing a mess of water and the bowl to stop functioning.

The Best Cat Water Bowl So far, I've spent many words explaining all the ways a water bowl can be bad now; let's discover a good water bowl!

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And here it is, the Eversweet Solo recirculating water bowl. It features the best design for keeping water clean, the most straightforward design for maintenance, and is as cat-proof as a bowl.

The first thing to point out is the closed water bowl system and reservoir. Almost all the water is inside the container, away from dust, debris, and curious cat paws. The fountainhead is just above the waterline, meaning minimal trickling noise.

The bowl comprises three simple pieces, all featuring soft curves and no tight spots. It is straightforward for adult hands to get into all pieces and clean them very quickly.

The best part of this bowl is the filter placement and how it fits into the recirculating process.

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1. The water is pumped up the center via the green arrow.

2. A slight depression collects water, and the overflow goes down the slots, as indicated by the red arrow.

3. The water flows through the filter before entering the reservoir again, ready to be pumped out.

The third point is so important. Water is constantly recirculated through the filter before being pumped. There's no large bowl for debris to collect in!

You can see all the bowl pieces in the final picture, with the filter being the white circle in the bottom right.

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In closing, this bowl is easy to clean, quiet, hard to knock over due to its low center of gravity, and has just the suitable capacity, so you don't have to fill it every day. But it also won't last for ten days, tempting you to let it ride and get extra filthy! All in all, we've not had any slime build-up, and cleaning this bowl takes less than two minutes, whereas the complex bowl I talked about takes 15 minutes to clean--and will still only be partially clean!

Purchase Your EVERSWEET SOLO Fountain Using This Link, and the 4% Commission Will Be Donated to "Savannah Cat Rescue and the Savannah Cat Care Fund."

Click Here to Purchase

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DIY: How to Make Your Own Cat Window Shelf by: Laura Root, Savannah Owner So, Your Cat Wants a Window Shelf?

Almost all cats love sitting in the window, looking at the birds, and getting some sunshine. However, in many of today's newer homes, windowsills are small to nonexistent, at 3.5 inches. Some of our cats can barely fit a single paw on that expanse!

When I began considering building a window shelf for my cats, the biggest consideration (literally) was Ascher, the F2. I determined the shelf's dimensions based on that aspect, plus the window I wanted to install it in. To help you with this part of the planning, I'll walk through the questions I must answer before putting a pencil to paper for the plan.

First, think about the obstacles in the window- latch, security, etc. Consider the windowsill depth to determine the depth of the support corbels vs. the overall depth of the shelf itself. Then, consider your chosen window and your cat's size and decide your shelf's maximum length. Use a stud finder to locate any wall studs into which you can attach the support corbels. It's best to have at least one screw sunk into a wall stud for sturdiness. You can also use screw holders if necessary. There's usually a horizontal "footer" stud along the bottom of the window, and your top anchor screws can go into this.

For example, I picked an 8' window with 24" sliding windows on each side. So, I had to consider the window hardware and ridges and route a small notch (rabit) to accommodate a portion of the frame in the back of the right side.

You'll want to think about what you want for the sides. I decided on 4.5" because of Ascher, but you might get away with 3" sides.

I also wanted this shelf to have a more "furniture" appearance than a bare pet store shelf. I chose to rout a decorative edge at the top, but it can be a simple, straight board with the top edges sanded round. If you want something more decorative but need access to a router, the home improvement stores have inexpensive wooden crowns and baseboard molding that works well.

The support columns are another aspect to consider before designing. They can be a simple triangle of wood cut to the correct size, or you can fancy them up with curves and routing.

Consider also the type of wood you want to use. If you're going to stain it, you'll want a nice-looking board for the sides and corbels (I used solid soft maple). You can save money for the base using good plywood (again, I used ¾" maple plywood). A nice, straight pine board will be sufficient if you want to paint the shelf. You can have it any way you wish: stain, paint, size, plain, fancy, etc.!

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Once I laid out the measurements necessary in my plan, I started cutting the components. To ensure a good fit between the bottom of the shelf and the front/sides, I made a ¾" wide, 3/8" deep rabit on the inside bottom edge of the front/sides.

Gluing and pinning will work fine if you don't have a router.

I used the router for the decorative edge I wanted on the top edge of the outside of the front/sides.

(Parts ready for assembly)

Next, I cut the plywood for the base, remembering that the back would fit right up against the window frame and not have a raised back. If you put a rabit in the front/sides, cut the width of the base ¾" shorter and cut the depth 3/8" shorter than the eventual outside dimensions to allow for a tight and secure fit.

Next, fabricate the support corbels and their backers.

Depending on your choices, simple or fancy, the corbels can be shaped with a band saw and sanded smooth, or use a decorative router bit. The backers are just 3-4" wide, and the height you chose for the corbels, plus an inch or two. The corbels are screwed to these backers from the BACK after staining or painting using 1 ½" screws to affix the corbels to the backers.

(Front view assembled)

Corbels cut

Corbel Backers

At this point, you can stain or paint the individual pieces (which is what I like to do) or assemble them and then stain or paint. I prefer to stain the individual pieces; that way, you don't have to deal with getting the stain or paint into tight inside corners.

Once the paint/stain cures, assembly begins! I mitered the corners of the front and sides to get a nice look; however, if you don't have access to a miter saw, these can be "butt" joints. If so, the front piece should go the entire shelf length, and the sides should be glued flat against the front. Could you make sure to sand smooth? Once glued, I used small pins to secure the joints and pin the base's front and sides.

Once the corbels have been glued and then screwed to the backers, it's time to take your project to the intended window!

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Corbels and Backers assembled

After determining where the studs (if any) are below the window sill, mark these with your Frog Tape. If there are no studs, space your corbels sufficiently apart to support the shelf (and cat!). I set mine about 4" from the outside edges of the window shelf. Mark these locations on the corresponding corbel backers and drill pilot holes for the anchor screws.

Get out your level! This part's vital as you'll want to ensure your windowsill's bottom and your corbels' top is LEVEL. Also, check to make certain that the corbels themselves are plumb and not cattywampus! (pun intended)

I placed one screw at the top on the outside of each of the actual corbels in each backer. I used a two ¼" screw, sunk into the aforementioned window "footer." I then placed another screw (2 ¼" is fine) into the other side (inside) at the bottom of the backer (these went into the screw holder--no stud). Drill the holes to accommodate the plastic screw holders and insert the holders. I found having another pair of hands very helpful with this step unless you are adept at using your knees as balancer/holders. Screw the corbels/backers to the wall.

Leveling Corbels

Set your shelf onto the corbels (DO NOT attach them yet!).

From the bottom, mark your base where the corbels line up— drill pilot holes in the center of those marks. For instance, my shelf is 14" in-depth, the windowsill is 3," and the corbel depth is 9". I set my screw holes back about 5" from the front of the shelf to make sure I did not have a screw come through the bottom of the corbel. Now go ahead and put the screws through the bottom (from the TOP) into the corbels. Place two more screws through the bottom toward the back of the shelf into the windowsill. I used 2 1/4 "screws for these attachments.

Place your pet bed or mat into the window shelf and watch out! Your kitties will be racing to see who gets into it first!!!

Window Shelf explored!

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Equipment List:

Materials List:

Circular Saw or Table Saw

¾" Plywood rectangle for the base (my outside dimensions for the shelf were 14" deep x 24" wide)

Router and Decorative Bits

4 ½ "wide board for sides, front or crown/baseboard molding in a sufficient length (front plus two sides, plus some for mitering corners)

Miter Saw Band Saw

¾" Boards for Support Corbels equal to the depth and twice the height (for 2) I started with 8" x9" rectangles

Brad pinner if necessary Small level

Clamps

¾" Backers for the Support Corbels- these can be 3-4" wide and the height of your Corbels, plus a couple of inches. You can cut these from the board you get for the front and sides if you add 20" or so.

Wood glue

Stain or Paint, brushes

Mounting Screws, including screw holders, screwdriver, drill bit for pilot holes

Pet bed or mat for softening the bottom of the window shelf

Sander/Sandpaper

Frog Tape Measuring Tape

Assembled and installed

Line drawing plans

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What the "F"

Does SBT/BST Mean?

By: Heather Jackson

In a prior "What the F" article, we discussed the Filial system, which you can read here. This article takes it a step further. If the Filial system needs to be more precise, there are even more letters to learn! You can have an SBT-BST cat as well. Wait, what... isn't that a Palindrome? No, it's just a mouthful.

What does SBT Mean? Once a cat's parents, grandparents, and great-grandparents are ALL Savannahs, the result of those kittens is called "Stud Book Traditional" or SBT. This is the first generation considered a purebred Savannah and is the only classification for the Championship Competition with TICA. The earliest generation of SBTs achieved is F4 (but that doesn't mean ALL F4s are SBTs).

So, what does BST stand for? That's a "Brown (Black) Spotted Tabby." This means any brown-colored Savannah with a black (or dark brown) spotted pattern and a black tail tip is a BST. BST is the most common color for Savannahs, and a BST can range anywhere from a very warm-toned golden brown to a darker, cool-toned brown that almost looks gray.

Fun Fact: The Savannah Breed Standard permissible colors also include SST—silver (Black), Spotted Tabby, Black (aka Melanistic), and Black Smoke. Below are examples of warm BST versus Cool BST.

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SAVANNAH CAT RESCUE Founded in 2003, Savannah Cat Rescue (SVR) is a volunteer service (not brick and mortar) by Savannah breeders: Kristine Alessio and Brigitte Cowell Moyne with a core group of volunteers across the United States and Canada. The mission of SVR is to rescue Savannah Cats and provide education to the public about the Savannah Cat Breed.

SVR cats come from various places, the primary being breeders who’ve sold kittens to owners who are unprepared or unable to care for a Savannah. The second, the breeder didn't assume responsibility when new owners needed help or decided to return the cat. A good breeder will always take back a cat he/she has bred, no matter the age or circumstances.

Luckily, most Savannah breeders fall into this “good” category!

When owners first contact the SVR, they prefer to help them work through any problem(s) they may be having.

If a resolution is unsuccessful or the owner’s lost the patience or ability to deal with the problem, SCR can take possession of the cat with the owner’s agreement (a legal surrender form).

SVR identifies qualified foster homes and places rescued cats for evaluation until placed into a permanent home.

SCR will work with foster homes .

If necessary, to rehabilitate cats, have them vetted (vaccinated and spayed/neutered), and evaluate any special needs or requirements, SCR gives first preference to foster homes if their homes are a good fit.

Although the Savannah breed is young, it's growing fast, and the number of Savannah cats and catteries producing Savannahs is increasing. SCR expects to see more Savannah cats in Rescue in the future, but this is NOT a reflection of a breed problem; it is merely a fact of feline life.

Available rescued Savannah cats are showcased on the SCR Facebook page or https://groups.io/g/SavannahCatRescue. SCR never knows when a cat will become available in any location.

Rescue Savannahs are typically adult cats of varying generations, ages, and genders and are rarely kittens. All Savannahs available for adoption through SCR will be spayed or neutered and come from a foster or the current owner's home.

Please check the Hybrid Law site to ensure Savannahs are legal where you live before asking about an available Savannah. SCR will NOT adopt to anyone living in an illegal area! Please contact your local Animal Control officer if you need more clarification about your community's legality, homeowners association, city, county, state, or province. Always make suryou'rere in legal compliance with the number of pets you may own.

We require landlord permission and proof to own a cat if you rent or lease your home.

Adoption fees for each Rescue Savannah are usually $200, and donations also fund SCR.

Shared with permission from SVR. Please consider donating to the SVR here.

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Savannah Cat Care Fund

The Savannah Cat Care Fund (SVCCF) was established in 2019. SVCCF is an all-volunteer 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization providing financial assistance throughout the United States to Savannah cat owners who can't afford emergency care for their Savannah. SVCCF financial assistance applies to all illnesses and injuries requiring immediate emergency or urgent care.

The fund started to prevent Savannah cats from being euthanized or surrendered when owners couldn't pay the veterinary bills. This fund has been years in the making, and as our breed grows, so do its needs.

The Savannah Cat Rescue team (SCR) felt a need for an organization that could help pet Savannahs BEFORE being surrendered or euthanized. A group evolved, and the idea came to fruition with many people's help. The SVCCF works with Savannah Cat Rescue to save our precious Savannahs. The SCCF works with the community and anyone needing emergency funds to save or help their Savannah cat.

The goals of the Savannah Cat Care Fund are: To generate financial support for the organization's initiatives through outreach and fundraising, primarily focusing on providing financial assistance to Savannah pet cat owners experiencing financial hardship due to unanticipated emergency/urgent cat care expenses.

To work with Savannah Rescue and help/save Savannah cats BEFORE they are surrendered or euthanized due to an owner's inability to provide emergency veterinary care.

To work with veterinarians on accepting pet insurance and allowing owners to pay only deductibles and copays; To provide education and resources to Savannah owners as needed.

We define a Savannah cat as (a) a Savannah with TICA registration, (b) a Savannah rescued from SV Rescue with proof of such, or (c) a cat with no registration papers but deemed a Savannah by the SVCCF Board of Directors or their appointees; or, (d) a Savannah recognized and confirmed as such by the cat's breeder.

Written with permission by the SVCCF. Please consider donating to the SVCCF here.

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Order Your Ferris Cat Wheel G5 Here!

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Ask Auntie Vannah Ask anything Sa"Vannah" cat-related atwww.savannahgans.com and click the "contact" tab in the menu. We'll help you get answers to your questions and possibly share them in a future issue!

I have a great Savannah story, DIY project, or product review I'd like to share. How can I get it published here?

Submit your story ideas by visiting our website and clicking on the "contact" tab on the top menu.

How often is Savannahgans® e-Magazine published?

Issues are released on the first of each quarter: January, April, July, and October each year.

Is there a subscription fee to read Savannahgans® Magazine?

This is a labor of love from one Savannah lover to all others. However, there are expenses necessary to make this a legitimate and legal publication. Part of the proceeds from donations and affiliate income (Amazon, Ferris Cat Wheel, Litter-Robot, etc.) is donated to the Savannah Rescue and Savannah Cat Care Fund.

Are there other ways to read SAVANNAHGANS® coming in the future?

Research is underway to find viable publishing options for paper versions and e-readers.

The three 2020 issues may be combined into one and made available for purchase in the coming months as a trial option. Stay tuned!

Watch for the Summer issue when we feature everything you ever wanted to know about the African Serval!

Watercolor by Jacqueline Luttrelle