SAVANNAHGANS - THE International Savannah Cat Magazine SP2022
Spring Spring 2022 2022
Welcome to the NINTH edition of SAVANNAHGANS® - THE International Savannah Cat Magazine
Happy Spring! This ninth issue kicks off our THIRD year of publishing! I can't believe we're going strong and how much we've grown, with more on the SAVAGENDA!
My husband Jamison and I own four Savannahs We've run the gamut of experiences, including a breeder scam, a fatal disease (FIP), and the discovery of a cure! We're delighted for all the FIP kitties who now get a chance at life thanks to the lifelong research of Dr. Niels Pedersen of UC Davis! Our Luna (FIP Survivor), whom many have followed since her diagnosis and treatment in 2017, turned FIVE in January and is nearly FIVE years cured this July!
By now, you likely know SAVANNAHGANS® earned the support of our first corporate sponsor, Dr. Elsey's--and they are sponsoring us again for 2022! Please click on Dr. Elsey's banner at the top of our website to take the litter quiz, print coupons, or read up on their blog! Sponsors are vital to support our growth--which is indeed happening! Sponsors, ads articles, media contributors, and the new breeder directory also support our development! Thank you to everyone who advertises with us and helps to keep this e-magazine free to readers everywhere! Many Savannah owners are unaware the magazine exists, so let's spread the word by posting and sharing the different content so many contribute
SAVANNAHGANS® publishes informative and entertaining content from Savannah enthusiasts and experts in a whimsical, electronic, FREE publication We combine factual, heart-warming stories with health and safety education The list of knowledgeable contributors sharing stories and experiences with our readers is steadily growing, so there's no lack of great content to publish! Current and future owners can easily search our website to find great information and facts about our wonderful breed.
Savannahgans® welcomes ALL cat lovers to enjoy our content. Whether you're searching for a great product, health advice, feeding tips, or an excellent DIY project, FREE in each quarterly issue and at www.savannahgans.com. We share all donations and revenue generated through our affiliate links with the Savannah Care and Rescue Funds. We also launched our "Friends of SAVANNAHGANS®" program, so check that out! Please visit our Amazon, Etsy, and other links when shopping for your household needs Follow us on Facebook and Instagram!
EDITOR'S DESK
What's New and Acknowledgements
FELINE BEHAVIOR BASICS AND RESOURCES
By: Jenny Beard Biehunko, DVM
BREEDER DIRECTORY
By: Debra Roberts of SAVANNAHGANS®
BREEDER INTERVIEW
By: Debra Roberts with Makala Johanson of Savannah Heightz
INTERVIEW WITH CAT CARTOONIST SCOTT METZGER
By: Debra Roberts of SAVANNAHGANS® with Scott Metzger
INBREEDING VS. LINEBREEDING EXPLAINED
By: Jennifer Michalcik of Enchanted Savannahs
DIY FLOATING WALL SHELVES
By: Laura Root, Savannah Owner and DIY Expert
SAVANNAH CAT RESCUE AND CARE FUND
Explanation of both organizations and How You Can Help
On the Cover: F1 Savannah girl "Havana" is owned by Victoria Rafanelli of Las Vegas, Nevada and Playa del Ray, California. Havana was bred by "Sweetwater Savannahs" and is three years old
S P R I N G 2 0 2 2
7-year-old F5 Zombie of "Kirembo Savannahs" --owned by
Kelly Ann Bennett
Feline Behavior Basics and What That Means For Us As Their Caretakers
Written by: Dr. Jenny Beard Biehunko DVM, Resident ACVB
Realistic Expectations: Why "cats gotta cat ...
All species have certain innate behaviors. This means they're born with the "wiring" for these behaviors and are part of who that individual is. Often, these are actions that our pets' feral or wild counterparts must perform to survive and thrive, stay safe from predators, eat, or reproduce. Though perfectly natural behaviors for a kitty, sometimes they may be unwanted or considered a nuisance to us humans--such as clawing objects in our home, or behaviors our cats have a hard time expressing in the limited environments we provide for them. Also, these behaviors are not changeable because our cats have strong biological and emotional wiring driving these needs. They tend to be unresponsive to behavior modification attempts like punishment or behavior medications. They are part of who your kitty is. If not given appropriate outlets for these species' specific needs, our cats can express them in ways we don't like; they may also result in chronic stress, resulting in behavioral or medical problems For instance, we know a strong link exists between issues like lower urinary tract disease and chronic stress associated with an environment lacking these enrichment opportunities
So, what makes a cat a cat?
A. Social Structure
--Contrary to what many people think, cats can be social Unlike other species such as dogs and horses, cats don't rely on a herd or pack to hunt or survive Feral cats can adapt to social and asocial living very well, and "how sociable" depends on the food sources You'll often see cat colonies with many cats living together in areas with an ample food supply If food isn't so abundant, cats may exist singly Cats also have an individual preference for how social they wish to be
--Cat colonies consist of a linear matriarchal society meaning most colonies consist of related females and their young offspring. Occasionally, these girls will let unrelated males join the group, but not often, and even then, the acceptance is gradual. The upshot of this is that cats tend to be very territorial and defensive towards other unfamiliar cats. It isn't normal feline behavior to readily accept a strange cat into their home. We often ask our cats to live in mixed groups (male and female, different ages, unrelated), which is unnatural for them.
What this means for us: Never immediately introduce a new kitten or cat to existing cats in the home. A new kitty needs to have his room with his resources. The introduction process needs to be gradual.
Cats most likely to get along are related cats or cats introduced to each other at a young and similar age
Also, in feral situations, any cat being aggressed toward can and will leave the colony, as it is in most cats’ nature to avoid conflict This instinct is thwarted when we bring them into a closed home environment
What this means for us: We must provide ample escape routes, vertical space, and hiding areas This allows cats who might have conflict to get away from one another It also increases square footage so cats have more “real estate” for individual territories.
B. Cats are Solitary Hunters
The primary food source for a feral cat is a small rodent A mouse makes for a small meal, not one big enough to be shared For cats, hunting and eating is a solitary activity When she is hunting, a cat will use claw marking, rubbing and urine marking to announce her claim to her territory and to keep other cats away.
What this means for us is that cats don’t tend to share resources well. Unlike in species like horses and people, eating is a solitary activity for cats and is not socially facilitated. Each cat in a household needs a separate core resource area where she has her food, water, resting areas, scratching areas, and litter box. Each cat needs ample opportunities for social marking, as well (see below)
C. Social Spacing
One sign of social bonding in kitties is that bonded individuals spend time in close contact or spacing However, even bonded pairs don’t tend to spend as much of their day cuddling or directly touching as other species, like dogs and humans Even cats who are very bonded to others need much individual space Studies are very clear that, although indoor living is much safer for cats, cats kept indoors in multi cat households are likelier to show behavior or medical issues related to stress. These issues could include things like inappropriate elimination or marking behavior, aggression, urinary medical issues like blockage or cystitis, or gastrointestinal issues.
What this means for us: Creating areas in our homes for social spacing is critical (vertical space, hiding areas, etc). I have listed resources on creating cat friendly spaces below.
D. Allogrooming
Bonded cats spend time grooming and licking each other This action strengthens their bond and co-mingles their scents, creating an "us" smell that identifies each cat as part of the family These sessions are relatively short and concentrated over the body's head and neck, not the flanks, bellies, or extremities.
What this means for us: We must remember that our cat may not be as comfortable with as much body contact or cuddling as we might be, and she may find how we interact with her to be threatening or rude. Watching for signs like tail twitching, airplane ears, or simply leaning or moving away is essential, meaning the kitty has had enough petting. Be sure to honor this by stopping. Otherwise, petting-induced aggression may occur. It's also important to note that many cats find it annoying, threatening, or rude to be touched and petted in areas other than their head or neck, especially by unfamiliar people. They might also find direct or intense staring to be a threat
A word about "belly rubs": Although some cats tolerate or even enjoy belly rubs, most cats don't. A cat who trusts a beloved human often offers an exposed belly when relaxed to indicate trust. However, it's usually NOT the invitation for a belly rub as we may interpret it, and we might get a bite or bunny kick instead A threatened or playfully over-stimulated cat may also roll over to free up all four sets of claws to defend himself
In addition to scent, cats use other chemical signals, called "pheromones," to communicate These chemicals are speciesspecific, meaning we humans cannot detect or interpret their presence Pheromones are deposited when, for instance, your kitty rubs his chin on you or when he scratches the couch Pheromones are present in urine and feces as well Cats use a specialized organ located on the roof of their mouths to detect and process this information, so you may see your cat "gaping" or opening her mouth to bring a whiff of these chemicals into contact with this area
What this means for us: Smell is essential to your kitty His friends will smell like "home" to him, and cats he doesn't affiliate with will smell foreign. This is also why cats who typically get along may hiss at each other when one has returned home after time away (such as a vet visit) because the returning cat no longer smells like "family." We can use smells and pheromones to our advantage by scent exchange in our cat introductions (see below).
Feliway is a synthetic analog of marking pheromones isolated from feline chin glands. Feliway Multicat is a synthetic analog of a calming pheromone isolated from nursing queens. Both come in a plug-in diffuser form to help stressful situations like inter-cat aggression or inappropriate marking Scent exchange and Feliway spray can help reestablish the bond when one cat has left and returned home
E. Marking
Clawing and marking are essential behaviors for your kitty. Cats rely heavily on their marking behavior to communicate. Using the scent glands in their paw pads, anal glands, and chin area, cats deposit their scent, communicate their presence, claim territory, and leave "calling cards." These cards contain information about their sex and age to other cats and establish a colony scent. Marking also explains why cats rub against us, one another, and the objects around them. It's also why they have an innate need to scratch and claw objects as it serves to groom their nails and leave their mark.
What this means for us: Cats leave scent marks to feel safe and secure. We can provide appropriate outlets for this by installing rubbing combs and providing plenty of scratching surfaces of various heights, textures, and materials in multiple locations Cats like to scratch after eating and resting, so providing opportunities in those areas is wise Cats should also have scratching surfaces placed vertically to stretch upwards to scratch Studies show that cats tend to leave urine or feces marks in response to stress Therefore, if your cat is urinating on vertical surfaces, she's not acting spitefully It means something in your cat's environment needs to change
F. Cats Are Not Dependent On Group Living For Survival
Cats can be social, but they aren't dependent on others to survive like many species. They haven't developed as elaborate a communication repertoire to maintain social bonds as more social species possess. When there's conflict, it's in a cat's nature to avoid the source instead of staying and appeasing it. Cats are not as equipped to "work out" conflict as species such as dogs The body language of conflict in cats is also much more subtle, and it's often difficult for humans to read or even see
What this means for us: When we keep cats in a multi-cat, indoor environment, the ability of individuals in conflict to avoid each other is limited or thwarted When a cat avoids another or reacts defensively, lacking social space can drive the kitty to more offensive behavior
Often, the only sign of conflict between cats in a household is "time-sharing," where they make sure never to be in the same place at once, or that one or more cats spend much time hiding. As oblivious humans, we may not see that there's inter-cat conflict until it erupts into aggression. We may also not see the subtle signs that one cat blocks another from a needed resource until one of our cats begins to lose weight, eliminates outside his litter box, or stops grooming himself. We may not attribute the above to inter-cat aggression, so the underlying issue isn't addressed.
Cats perceive discipline (which, by definition, involves something scary, aversive, or painful) as a threat to us Their instinct is to avoid that at all costs Like their other kitty relationships, threatening behavior from us will likely harm or break their bond with us Studies show that even one bad introduction makes it more likely that cats won't bond, as they cannot "make up" or diffuse conflict like some other species, and is why fallout from punishment is common with cats
G. Cats Are Obligate Hunters
Cats have an innate need to express all hunting behaviors (stalking, smelling, tracking, pouncing, climbing, dissecting, etc.). Play behavior in cats is nothing more than "practice hunting." It is a cat's number one job, and they LOVE it. Never forget. you're sharing your home with a top-tier predator, even if she's not allowed to express predator behaviors. Dogs, for instance, have had much more time to evolve toward domestication away from their wild ancestors' wolfy behaviors. Cats are only partially domesticated. Their behavior closely aligns with their wild cat ancestors. So--you have a tiny panther in your home!
Cats in the wild eat 10-20 small rodents daily, and at least half of their hunting attempts are unsuccessful Much of their time budget for the day naturally involves hunting-related behaviors It's also why your kitty's body and mind can't adapt to gorging on large dry kibble meals and sleeping all day Cats are crepuscular, which means they're most active during the dusk and dawn times of the day Young cats spend more time hunting than older cats
What this means for us: Lack of an outlet for hunting-related behaviors can lead to inappropriate play/aggression, redirected aggression, chronic stress behaviors, and pica (eating inappropriate objects), and is why dry cat food in a bowl leads to obesity Kibble contains many inappropriate calories, leading to a lack of exercise and other health issues We must provide our kitties with simulated hunting opportunities, food, puzzles, and lure toys. Cats need an environment where they can run, pounce, and climb.
Providing plenty of play before bed is vital with kitties. Their crepuscular nature is why some cats, especially young ones, are so active at dusk and dawn and why many wake their owners up for food. You can also pack a food toy and use a bowl-type, timed dispenser to give the kitty a hunting opportunity while you sleep.
Provide toys that express different behaviors related to hunting (lure toys, food puzzles, squeaky toys, etc ), and rotate them frequently Remember, cats love to hunt It feels good Therefore, interacting with toys that allow them to "hunt" establishes a strong bond and good emotional associations between you and your kitty These activities can also be used as part of a behavior modification protocol to change your kitty's bad associations with good ones (see below)
H. Cats Are Also Prey
Although cats are predators, they are also small animals that fall prey to other predators. Cats are solitary hunters and often face threats alone. Cats may be more suspicious of novel things and situations, are hyper-vigilant, and easily startled. Compared to us, cats have more "real estate" in their brains devoted to sensory processing and emotional associations and less decision-making and deep thinking The part of your cat's brain that senses and associations with threats is called the limbic system; if your cat is frightened or highly aroused, this area will activate, causing a significant release of adrenaline and a "flight or fight" response Simultaneously, the prefrontal cortex, which is the part of the brain associated with conscious learning and reasoning, will be much less active Once in this state of "over threshold" arousal, cats tend to be very difficult, or impossible, to redirect or calm, and they tend to take much more time to return to a normal mental state than animals like dogs
What this means for us: Our home environments limit a kitty's escape opportunities Again, we need to be sure our kitties have escape outlets and no areas where they can become trapped Adequate space is especially true for litter boxes and resting places Cats of higher status often defend both resources and can be places where subordinate cats feel vulnerable We must ensure each cat has plenty of safe and comfy areas to rest and hide.
Cats tend to feel safer in high places, where they can survey their realm. The more elevated areas we can provide with cat shelving, trees, etc., the safer our cats feel.
If our cat gets super scared, it's very tempting to restrain and cuddle her, but this isn't comforting. Her instinct is to get away; securing her will escalate the situation and lead to lashing out in defense
We can learn to watch our cats for more subtle signs that they're upset so we can redirect or decelerate a situation before the cat gets over the threshold We can also teach behaviors that help our cats focus and calm down to learn new, positive associations with things that upset them
I. Cats are Very Attached to Their Home Environment
Their home environment is where they feel safe and where their resources reside Being in their safe territory is even more critical to cat survival than bonded individuals Most cats are so uncomfortable with being taken away from home It's also why, no matter how connected they are to us, our presence alone may not provide enough comfort to override their fear and vulnerability when moved from their familiar environment Habituating your kitty to her carrier ahead of time is very important
What this means for us: When we take the kitty away from home, providing calming pheromones and a familiar scent is beneficial This way, it becomes an extension of the home and is not associated just with a trip away
J. Cats Are Not Community Latrine Animals
Litter box usage and behavior are innate (most cats do it naturally and don't have to learn it) Feral cats tend to eliminate alone in open areas not currently claimed by other cats and bury their urine and feces to avoid attracting predators It's not natural for cats to pee and poop in group areas or enter covered or enclosed spaces
Marking behavior differs from elimination behavior because it involves small amounts of concentrated urine sprayed onto vertical surfaces Higher status cats may "covet" the litter box area and defend it as a resource, not wanting other cats to use it Cats are also physically incapacitated and may be vulnerable to attack when they urinate and defecate, so they may be reluctant to use a covered box or one that isn't easily escapable
This means that Litterboxes should be larger than most commercially available boxes and uncovered. They should be in multiple locations and open areas with at least two escape routes. Watch for subtle signs of one cat "Bogarting" the box, like stare-downs or physically lying/blocking routes to access the area. Scoop the boxes at least 2-3 times a day and more if you have more than two cats. Studies show that a population of more than three cats correlates with a much higher chance of elimination issues So, these precautions are even more critical if you choose to have a multi-cat household
K. Genetic Tendencies and Early Learning
Genetics determine much of your cat's personality For instance, the cat's level of fear or the enjoyment of human interaction correlates with the parent's fearfulness and friendliness Cats also have a "socialization window," a sensitive period of their kittenhood This window begins as soon as the kitten is born and closes sooner than their puppy counterparts' corresponding period. They are very open to learning associations with new things and interacting with other cats. Although cats can learn new associations later in life, different learning processes exist. It can be challenging for your kitty to "unlearn" any negative associations made as young kittens, particularly those associated with fear or pain.
Sterilite 60qt Clear View Underbed Storage Bin with Latch, Purple
Blacklight for urine spotting
Food-Dispensing Toys:
Doc and Phoebe's Indoor Hunting Cat Feeding System
www DocandPhoebe com
Catit Senses Digger Interactive
CEESC Cat Tumbler
Trixie 5 in-1 Cat Activity Center
Food Puzzles For Cats
Trixie T x 2 Automatic Food Dispenser
Treat N Train
Training:
How to Clicker Train a Cat (article)
Foundation Behaviors Are Going to the Cats (article)
Learning Theory (how cats learn article):
How Cats Learn - Biscuit Quest Part One: Classical Conditioning (video)
Positive Reinforcement Training (video)
How to Use Positive Reinforcement for Good Cat Behavior (article)
Churu Treats for Reward
Yi Camera Nanny Pet Cat Cam
Why Punishment Should Be Avoided (article)
The Fallout from the Use of Aversives
Environmental Enrichment Toys:
Da Bird
Catit Senses 2 0
Cat Dancer
KITTYBELLES
Melon Madness Interactive Toy
Outward Hound (Cat section)
Cat Amazing
Cat Furniture:
Shelving to increase vertical space and provide exercise, resting, and hiding areas)
(Etsy has many vendors who specialize in this):
Urban Feline
Rsh Pets
CatsPlayCatFurniture
Catastrophic Creations
Pinterest has great ideas and design
IKEA Hacker Cat Section
Feline Enrichment Facebook page
ZiggyDoo FerrisCatWheel
Websites and Books:
Decoding Your Cat (book)
American College of Veterinary Behaviorists (website)
Translating Feline Body Language (website)
The Body Language of Feline Anxiety (article)
Dr Jenny Biehunko received her Bachelor of Science Degree in Biology from Furman University and is a 1998 graduate of The University of Georgia College of Veterinary Medicine She has practiced general medicine with a special interest in behavior for 17 years and has completed over 1200 hours of continuing education in veterinary behavior, learning theory, and training. In 2015, she was accepted as a Resident in the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists and was on track to receive her specialty as a Board Certified Veterinary Behaviorist Dr Biehunko has performed numerous presentations and seminars on various aspects of veterinary behavior, served as an expert legal consultant, and taught behavior courses at both Tuskegee and Auburn Colleges of Veterinary Medicine She is currently a member of the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior, the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants, and the Pet Professional Guild
Jenny is owned by three dogs, five Arabian horses, and five cats, including three Savannah Cats
REPUTABLE BREEDER DIRECTORY
SORTABLE AND SEARCHABLE BY STATE AND COUNTRY WHEN YOU VISIT ONLINE
This page represents how our online Breeder Directory appears to site visitors looking for their next Savannah. When a logo is selected, visitors can read the breeder's bio, health guarantee, view their social media profiles, and contact by phone or email Breeders have the option to add and update their available kittens to their profiles,
One of the best features of our directory is the viewer's ability to search and sort breeders by geographical location or keyword search.
**For fairness to all breeders in the directory, each page click randomizes the listing order.
Savannah Heightz
An In-Depth Interview with Savannah Cat Breeder Makala Johanson of
Savannah Heightz
How'd you come up with your cattery name, "Savannah Heightz"?
As a breeder, I want to improve Savannah's genetics and quality to higher standards than our pet Savannahs at the time Besides acknowledging Savannahs as our specialized breed in our cattery, I wanted to incorporate another catchy word that still signified some of our purpose for breeding and a personal acknowledgment of our breed This intention is where I got the "Heights" idea but with a spelling twist to "Savannah Heightz."
Where's your cattery located? I understand you have TWO Locations!
We are in two locations, yes! Our initial home is in the Pacific Northwest, Arlington, Washington, and our second home is in the Northeast area of Fernley, Nevada We've just completed a custom home in Nevada, where we'll eventually transition permanently In the meantime, we maintain both residences as we're firmly rooted in the PNW All our breeding felines travel with us as we spend our year divided in each location
Please tell us a bit about yourself, your background, your family, your occupation(s), and how you got started with Savannah breeding.
I was born and raised in the Pacific Northwest but have always loved traveling and perused moving to a warm, dryer climate I've been married to my wonderful husband for twelve years, and we share two young daughters, ages six and ten I was an only child until I was ten years old During the first ten years of my life, I grew up on a 283-acre farm located in Darrington, WA We raised horses, cattle, pigs, and chickens and bred Australian shepherds for farming and German Rottweilers for protection I have always had a love and passion for animals I came from a family background in the logging, farming, veterinary, and medical industry With logging family members, we always had wildlife orphans coming home for rehabilitation to be released when recovered My aunt was an exotic veterinary technician who led my love for exotic cats I went to work with her to work with lions, tigers, and many other exotic animals I went to college for Veterinary Assisting, where I first fell in love with the Savannah breed before having kids and finding my passion in pediatric health care rather than the heartbreak of veterinary care.
I purchased my first pet, Savannah, in 2011. In 2015 I knew I wanted to breed savannahs and better the genetics and quality seen locally. Shortly after, I started breeding and didn't see the genetic pool I'd hoped for. Hence, I began researching Serval ownership and breeding F1 Savannahs to introduce new genetics and lines within the Savannah breed I work full-time from home, triaging patients as an NCMA, using my radiology and phlebotomy licenses while running my cattery Working from home allows for 24/7 care of my cats and birthing mammas We never expect any queen ever to give birth alone
Is your family involved with your cattery work? If so, how?
It is all-hands-on-deck daily in our family, aside from my attributions. I can thank my children for their assistance in socializing and playing with each cat and kitten's daily and routine chores. The kids also provide nightly snuggles with those that like to snuggle. I have my husband to thank for engineering every idea or expectation I have for our ever-growing cattery Our cats would not have all the luxury enclosures, toys, and enrichments without his creations
What's your typical daily routine at your cattery from morning to evening?
The daily routine within our cattery begins with cleaning and feeding each cat/kitten, followed by open playtime and socialization, which our children help tremendously. Feeding twice daily is essential to ensure everyone has fresh food and water. To maintain a clean and healthy environment, we use elevated food and water dishes, Litter Robots®, and large highwalled cat boxes for the cats who can't use the Litter Robots, aka our Serval. Running a cattery and caring for our animals is a 24/7 job Taking any vacations means hiring help while we're gone
What's the best part about breeding?
One of the best and most rewarding parts of having a cattery is seeing the improvements in each litter of healthy kittens, our research and purchase investments coming together, and the extraordinary changes each pairing brings to our cattery and the Savannah genetics pool. Not only watching the quality of each litter of kittens improve but building relationships with customers that become lifelong friendships.
What's the worst/most challenging part about breeding?
The worst part is everything that can go wrong in a cattery: premature babies viruses brought home from the grocery store or a routine vet visit unforeseen need for C-sections loss of a litter of kittens due to medical emergencies such as aspiration pneumonia occurring at birth
Breeding isn't all rainbows and butterflies. Many people don't realize the expenses breeders encounter to produce healthy, quality kittens. Those who breed for all the right reasons can quickly lose more money than they make.
Do you recommend people try breeding Savannahs? Why/Why not?
I believe you should only be breeding Savannahs with intentions of genetic testing, breeding line investigation, and research. Setting aside reserve funds for emergencies and having on-hand equipment in case emergencies happen to save and care for
cats/kittens in emergency or critical care needs. When people say, "I just want to have one litter" or "I want to make that kind of money," because they see Savannahs are expensive, you're not in it for the right reasons. They haven't researched how expensive operating a safe, healthy, ethical cattery is.
Do you have a breeder mentor(s) you wish to acknowledge?
Honestly, I have the entire Savannah community to thank for much of the information I've learned and read about their experiences. I have several Savannah breeders to thank for the info and ideas. Many, in general, pass messages and advice. East Tenessee Savannahs, GettaSavannah, Rainier Savannahs, Seattle Savannah for incredible cat apparel, Wyldthingz for an F7 SBT stud who created a fantastic foundation in my breeding program, and F2 Silver Queen. I'm sure I'm missing multiple other breeders. I've also spoken with or participated in discussions within the Savannahgans® Magazine talks.
What's the best tip or advice you ' ve received from another breeder?
The best advice I received from other breeders was to treat your studs like kings, as they're the foundation of your cattery The health and well-being of your cats are a priority over quantity. Always follow the ethics of quality over quantity. Trust your gut when it comes to screening families if something stands out to you as a red flag, there's a reason. It's not worth risking a kitten's life for money, period! Always have large areas of space for your Savannahs. Unhappy cats don't breed well, and multiple quarantine areas for new arrivals.
What's the biggest weakness of the Savannah breed?
One of the weaknesses is the lack of in-depth testing Some breeders don't complete it routinely as well as many Savannahs look like Bengals with rosettes and don't follow the Savannah breed standards There's a lack of genetic variation as the breed is still early in development, leading to many inconsistencies in how Savannahs look from breeder to breeder. Although both breeds are fantastic in their ways, they don't need crossing at this point.
What's the biggest strength of the Savannah breed?
The Savannah breed is a solid, tight community intending to produce genetically healthier cats than similar breeds and attempts not to repeat some things that go wrong genetically in other breeds.
What's the most important thing a breeder does?
One of the most important things a breeder needs to be aware of is to be clean and cautious. Be open-minded to learning There's so much to learn, and no one knows it all. Never overcrowd your cattery. Socialize when kittens are born and expose them to as many safe things as possible to allow cats/kittens to acclimate into new homes. Always put your animal's health and well-being first.
What should new breeders know that you ' ve learned from breeding?
Breeding is a full-time job Spend much time researching the different genetic tests out there Be prepared for breeding emergencies, and be emotionally and mentally ready for the unexpected with kittens or a litter. Starting a breeding program is a time-consuming and costly investment with no guarantee. If you ever do, it'll take many years to recover your startup expenses. Continue to purify our bloodlines with only Savannah to Savannah breeding an African Serval to Savannah breeding.
Do you feed your Savannahs a raw diet and recommend raw feeding to your families?
I feed raw to our African Serval and those in our category who will also eat it I do not recommend Raw feed to most pet owners as it can be easily misused and undereducated, causing health problems in kittens Our savannahs eat kibble, and lactating moms get other wet food while pregnant and nursing.
If
not raw feeding or supplementing, what food brands/types do you recommend and why?
We cater diets to each cat's needs and preferences I've chosen to use Northwest Naturals Raw Food with our cattery dynamics We utilize Vitamins, Taste of The Wild kibble, Solid Gold Indigo Moon, KMR Milk supplement, and First Mate wet foods
Do you have a favorite Savannah Cat website or cattery?
Yes, I do have several websites and cattery pages I utilize I reference customers via my website to many sites such as Savannah Cat Association, Savannahgans® Magazine, UC Davis Genetic Lab Testing Sites, and hybridlaws com. I enjoy the layout and info provided to customers on several cattery pages, such as Bastet Exotics, Getta Savannah, and Wyldthingz
Do you breed any other breed of cat or animal besides Savannahs?
I haven't bred any breed of a cat other than Savannahs, but I grew up around several species of exotic animals, bobcats, and large feline species. I've bred equine and canine breeds.
What do you think about the phasing out of F1, F2, and F3 Savannahs?
It's honestly devastating The Savannah breed is excellent, with tremendous growth It's currently a healthy breed, and they make great pets Removing F1-F3 generations will significantly reduce the gene pool and cause inbreeding, bringing unhealthy genetic issues. Doing this does not further help the development and growth of the breed.
What can you tell us about owning and breeding with Servals?
Yes, I do own a serval! Since he was five weeks old, we have hand-raised our Serval from a local breeder in Redmond, OR Tahfari requires an immense amount of time and socialization continuously He needs a much different environment, enclosure space, enrichments, and diet than the Savannah breed He still sleeps with us and plays with our children and our dog He loves going on car rides and meeting new people in our home He is delightful and a total gentleman with all our Queens. We raised him with the litter of one of our F4 kittens when we brought him to our home to our cattery. And yes, that was intentional planning on our part. Tahfari has the utmost respect for our F3 Queen Keeta as she raised him and put him in his place, teaching him how to be a respectful gentleman towards everyone. We can even have him with our F7 stud under supervision, and everyone coexists with a healthy relationship.
Tahfari will always be an African serval, though, not a Savannah He'll tell you when he's done and has reached his limits We see this in his everyday behaviors We can cuddle with him, go on walks, car rides, sleep, take baths, showers, and play with him. He's created a trusting bond with everyone in our family through extensive socialization and desensitization training as a kitten. He's even great when we go for veterinary checkups. He loves to meet new potential families who pick up their new kittens; or those interested in becoming a breeder. We watch him extremely close as he is infatuated with anything silicone, fleece, and destructible dog toys.
What special/unique traits and characteristics are specific to SBTs and F1s?
One of the most appreciated characteristics/ traits we hear from our families is how loving, loyal, adaptable, and social our kittens are We often hear that we must have sold them a dog in a cat's body How exotic and Serval-like our Savannah kittens/cats' traits are. I explained to pet owners that SBT Savannahs are more of your cuddly domestic cat versus the F1 through F3, tend to be like a medium to large dog, and are not always guaranteed to be a fan of being cuddled, picked up, held, and packed around. Although many times there are exceptions to that. Early generation savannahs. Such as the F1 will be very devoted, like a dog, to one person. However, the later generations removed you are from the F1, the more likely they will bond with more than one family member in the home. I also told buyers that savannahs vary in size, and that there is no guarantee. One generation can be larger than the other and vice versa. But no matter the size, savannahs do great with smaller cats and non-aggressive dogs They are high-energy and curious cats They will never be couch potatoes; as I explain to them, Savannahs never outgrow the kitten stage
What should a potential buyer of a higher-generation Savannah know upfront about owning one?
Potential buyers should know that higher-generation Savannahs require more space, one-on-one time, and continuous socialization. They require more items in the house to keep them mentally challenged. Or they become bored and can be destructive. They need to understand that they are very loyal to their person but do not always enjoy the company of strangers. Savannahs, in general, are large commitments, but early-generation savannahs are even more of a commitment as they don't rehome easily.
What's your position/opinion on the term HPF1?
HP F1 is a very controversial title I believe the term HP should only explain an African serval to an F1 Savannah pairing Breeders should not attempt to put a specific genetic percentage of African Serval next to the HP F1 kitten as there's no legitimate test to test this amount. I explain this to buyers in the sense of if they have siblings who share the same parents. Each sibling carries different genetic factors and isn't the same as another simply because they have the same parents. Each sibling takes other genetic pieces from each parent and ancestry. You get exotic serval-like kittens when you pair the F1 Savannah with an African Serval. But with that, you can also get more serval traits that don't always make the best pets due to uncertain personalities as they mature. That can negatively impact the longevity of Savannah's life within its new home. Inconsistent litter box habits can lead to rehoming and lack of bonding once they hit maturity of about two years old. F2 and later generation mothers tend to make better tempered and predictable pets and have better chances of bad litterbox habits.
What else would you like the Savannah world to know about you and your cattery?
Savannah Heightz Cattery is a small in-home cattery based out of Washington & Northern Nevada, specializing in producing unique purebred F1A, F2B, F3C, and SBT Savannah (F4-F8) kittens with a wild majestic look of their Serval ancestor We breed our cats with the intent to further develop the Savannah breed standard and genetic pool with a direct emphasis on large ears, long legs, and a majestically bold black spotted pattern. Our cats are not inbred or "line bred," Doing so wouldn't further develop the Savannah breed. We raise all our cats inside our home as a family with our daughters and various pets. Savannah Heightz cats have the luxury of a sizeable indoor-outdoor enclosure to freely move as they indulge in many toy enrichments to amuse their natural curiosity and wild side.
Follow our Savannahs at www.savannahheightz.com or on soci vannahheightz and https://www.instagram.com/savannahheightz.
Our kittens come with the following:
· TICA registered
· Copy of Contract
· Health Guarantee
· Microchipped
· Age-Appropriate Core Vaccinations
· Prophylactically Dewormed
· Prophylactically Flea Treated
· Veterinary Clearance (copy of exam Provided)
· Blanket OR Toy
· Sample Transitional Food (Depending on flight regulations)
· FIV/Felv Negative Parent Results
· Fecal Testing
· Respiratory Pan
· Parent's genetic
· Litter box trained
· Lifetime of advic
Be sure to read m
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An Interview with Cat Cartoonist Scott Metzger
Website: www.metzgercartoons.com
Facebook: ScottMetzgerCartoons
Instagram: @scottmetzgercartoons
Scott Metzger is a cartoonist from the San Francisco, CA, area. Scott's single-panel comics appear on greeting cards, magazines, and online. His work has been featured by Bored Panda, DeMilked, Country Living Magazine, Woman's World Magazine, Animal Planet's Jackson Galaxy and is shared online by millions of people. Anyone existing on social media and owning a cat (or ten) has read and shared the humorous cartoon work of Scott Metzger. We know cats are funny and entertaining, and Scott funnels their antics into hilarious cartoons.
Scott's first book of cat cartoons, Being Awesome Is Exhausting, was listed in Country Living Magazine's Best Pet Gifts for the Holidays for 2016. Scott's second book of cat cartoons, 50 Ways to Wake Your Human, was released on November 2, 2020.
How and when did you first become interested in becoming a cartoonist?
I started cartooning after I graduated from college I had always enjoyed drawing but didn't start drawing single-panel cartoons until after college Over the course of about 15 years, I made several efforts to get my work syndicated in newspapers (both my single-panel cartoons and a few comic strip ideas). Around 2009, I decided to stop pursuing newspaper syndication and began focusing solely on single-panel cartoons.
Was it cats that first inspired you to create cartoons or something else?
I've always loved cats, but they're not what inspired me to start cartooning I was inspired by the comic strips I read when I was a kid My favorites were Peanuts, The Far Side, Calvin and Hobbes, Bloom County, and Garfield There are many others I enjoyed, but those were the Big Five
Where do you get your ongoing inspiration for cartoon ideas?
My two cats provide regular inspiration for cartoon ideas Also, life, in general, inspires Often, I'll get an idea from something that happened to me or something I saw For example, my eight-year-old son recently returned from school, singing the "kissing in a tree" rhyme. A couple of hours later, my cat Max climbed a tree out front and had difficulty getting down (this happens pretty often). I put those two things together in this cartoon:
Do you write all the captions for your comics, or do you have writers who contribute or pitch ideas?
I write all the jokes/captions Every so often, people approach me with cartoon ideas I appreciate their interest, and sometimes the jokes are really funny, but I won't take their ideas For me, drawing comics is very personal Writing my jokes and drawing them is what makes cartooning fun and satisfying Years ago, I read an article about Gary Larson, and he described why he doesn't use other people's ideas or collaborate with others on cartoons He said, "It's like having someone else write in your diary " I love that line It's a great way to explain it
But one time, I made an exception. Ten years ago, Bob Williard, a friend of mine, came up to me when we dropped off our daughters at preschool. Bob said, "I've got a great idea for a cartoon!" We have very similar senses of humor, and when he explained his idea, it cracked me up. It was such a dad joke. I did a rough pencil sketch that night and showed it to him the next day. Here it is:
I ended up posting this sketch on my website just for fun I didn't sign it because I didn't think to sign it Someone saw it, posted it on Reddit, and it went viral Soon after, George Takei shared the sketch on his Facebook page It killed me that I didn't sign the drawing as it became shared a lot on social media Bob and I were amazed at how it took off I later drew a finished color version of this comic
Is cartooning your primary/only career?
No, I do have a day job I work for a nonprofit organization Luckily it's a job I enjoy
Did you attend college to learn/enhance your artistic ability, or does your talent come naturally?
I graduated from UC Davis and took many art classes there I've been drawing since I was a little kid, and it's always come naturally to me I admire artists who can draw in different styles That kind of talent amazes me That's not something I can do
Do you draw and write any other type of cartoon characters besides cats?
I drew a comic strip called "Tree" for several years about a dim-witted pine tree trying to make it in the human world I also like to draw dog cartoons and comics with other animals (raccoons, squirrels, etc ) I tried to get "Tree" syndicated in newspapers from about 2004 to 2009, but it didn't pan out Two syndicate editors liked the strip but deemed it "too weird" for mainstream syndication Here are a few samples of that strip:
Is there ever a time you experience a "cartoonist" block and can't develop new ideas?
Yes, unfortunately! When that happens, I know I need to get outside and walk or run Exercise clears my head and helps get the creative juices flowing It doesn't always work, but it often does
What's your technique for creating your cartoons? Rough sketch, computer software, etc. How long does it take, on average, to create a single cartoon?
I draw a rough pencil sketch, scan it into the computer, and color it with Adobe Illustrator using a Wacom tablet Drawing a cartoon takes 1-3 hours, depending on its details Most of my comics take about 60 to 90 minutes to complete
Do you do custom cartoon work that's only for specific people or organizations? (for example, if I wanted to purchase one Savannah Cat-related cartoon each quarter for my issues and website)
As a general rule, I don't do custom cartoon work I used to do freelance cartooning jobs years ago, but I realized that spending time drawing other people's ideas isn't fun for me I have zero interest in it I prefer to draw my comics and market them wherever I can
How should people properly/legally use your cartoons?
I respectfully ask those who have businesses to pay licensing fees to post my cartoons on their social pages or websites The fees are reasonable, similar to the cost of boosting a post Businesses are always welcome to share comics directly from my Facebook page onto theirs, free of charge
What's the best way folks can/should share your cartoons regarding copyright and credit when they come across them on social media?
Ideally, I like people to share directly from my page if they post on Facebook. Sometimes, a person might find my cartoon on some page, post it, and tag my page. That's fine, and I appreciate that. But if a business page regularly posts my comics as new posts, I'll contact them to discuss licensing.
What does it mean when someone asks to "license one or more of your cartoons"?
Licensing means a person or company pays a fee to be able to use my cartoons under specific, agreed-upon terms It's typically a straightforward process, especially when people want to use my comics for social media posts, newsletters, lectures, workshops, etc.
Do you have a favorite breed of
cat?
Not really, but I've always had short-haired cats.
What would you like to share about your family, interests, pets (names), or plans for your work?
I have a wife and two kids (a 13-year-old daughter and an 8-year-old son) My wife is a 5th-grade teacher and a talented artist with a great sense of humor I ask her for feedback on cartoons, and my kids also provide feedback We have two rescue cats-Max and Hannah Max is a 12-year-old tuxedo, and Hannah is a 17-year-old siamese-calico mix
I've done two books of cat comics - Being Awesome Is Exhausting and 50 Ways to Wake Your Human
As for plans for my work, I'm currently working on a book of dog comics I put a project on hold for a while for various reasons, but I plan to finish it by this summer It's long overdue
I also have greeting cards for sale with NobleWorks and PicturaUSA
Would you share with us your top 5 favorite cartoons of all time?
Here are five favorites I like these a lot, which also struck a chord with readers
Jennifer is a Savannah breeder at Enchanted Savannahs in New Mexico along with her husband, Brandon
Linebreeding vs. Inbreeding Explained
By: Jennifer Michalcik
There's no controlled environment in the wild where animals mate regardless of their familial match In the breeding world, breeders have the ultimate control
Linebreeding is a form of inbreeding that involves the selection of mates based on the relationship to a specific superior ancestor (www britannica com) Examples of linebreeding include mating between first or second cousins, uncle to a niece, aunt to a nephew, and sometimes halfbrother to half-sister (www lozfelizledger com July 1, 2021)
Linebreeding has occurred for many years, especially in the livestock industry. Many breeders use linebreeding to keep only the best features of the mother and father to pass them down to their offspring According to www.lonemountaincattle.com, linebreeding can produce more consistent and uniform offspring and eliminate certain flaws in the breed when appropriately done "Linebreeding is highly strategized inbreeding."
The most common form of linebreeding is between halfsiblings (half-brother and half-sister), whereas the two mothers are different. Despite the popularity of linebreeding, there are disadvantages.
Let's dive into the meaning of inbreeding and the risks that lie with it. Linebreeding can lower fertility, cause immune deficiencies, slow growth, and shorten lifespan "Inbreeding i
is the mating of very closely related animals," according to www.cfa.org.
"Inbreeding is the breeding of closely related cats, such as father to daughter, or mother to son."
To produce cats that meet the breed standard, many breeders will pair the related animals that share the desirable characteristics Over time, those characteristics become uniform, and the offspring of the inbred animals inherit the genes for those characteristics. ("Pros and Cons of Inbreeding" at messybeast com)
With inbreeding, it's important to understand that this practice can drastically decrease the genetic diversity of the offspring. Inbreeding can lead to smaller litter sizes, premature delivery, stillbirths, congenital abnormalities, increased risk of recessive gene disorders, and animals that don't grow to their full potential. When linebreeding or inbreeding, you must question, "What might be the outcome of the offspring, and will there be genetic defects later"?
According to RSPCA, linebreeding involves arranging matings so that one or more relatives occur more than once in a pedigree while avoiding close inbreeding Their position states: “As a general rule, matings should be arranged between parents that are as unrelated as possible and who are physically and behaviorally sound By mating unrelated parents, there's a significant reduction in the risk of the offspring suffering from an inherited disorder”.
"Many breeders apply the term "inbreeding" only to close inbreeding, even though linebreeding is a form of inbreeding and has the same effects."
*** Below are Actual Pedigrees from two different breeders The names have been simulated to ensure privacy***
Todd (Sire) bred with Sandy (Dam 1) and Nova (Dam 2)
Bella and Rocket are half-brother and half-sister bred for offspring
No other common family blood
O'Malley (Sire) bred with Star (Dam 1)
O'Malley (Sire) Bred with Daughter (Annemarie) for offspring
DIY Integrated Cat Bed End Table or Nightstand
by: Laura Root, Savannah Owner
This project was a real challenge to build, not because its premise was complicated, but because I wanted to create a quality piece of furniture and not “just” another cat bed. A few months before this build, our Publisher, Deb Roberts, sent a photo of a cute, elevated cat bed with the question “Next DIY?” and of course, I said “YES”!
I looked closely at the idea and developed a plan to build something that would work within our preferred décor style AND utilize several pieces of nice wood I had stashed away for such an occasion I also wanted a drawer (for TREATS!) and drew that into the plan After building this, I realized that what I had done was probably not what other people would want, so I drew up more simplified plans to present to all of our Savannaghans readers However, if anyone would like me to e-mail copies of the more complicated plans, please contact me at LLROOT@COX NET, and I will make them available to you!
I wanted a specific width and depth (we had leftover Quartzite from our master bath remodel and didn't want to waste a foot!) I'm referencing dimensions based on a 24" wide by 18" deep cabinet in this DIY The height is flexible; make sure the inside has enough room for your kitty to stand up and turn around (which is why mine is 24" tall) "Bun" Legs can be purchased from various sources, such as a Woodworker's Supply or a molding supply, or you can order from Etsy
Straightforward conical legs are usually found at your local building supply and cut to your preferred height
As with other projects, the wood you decide to use hinges on whether you want to paint or stain. The original design Deb sent to me appears built from either ¾" Baltic Birch or ¾" Birch plywood, given the edge grain shows and, if stained, provides a nice point of interest. I'm going to "build" this from ¾" Baltic Birch.
Materials List:
¾” Baltic Birch in the following dimensions:
Top and Bottom – 24” x 18”
Two sides – 18” wide x 18” tall (again, height is your preference)
Front and Back – 24” wide x 18” tall (same as sides)
Four purchased legs in your preferred style
Cabinet Screws, Pocket Hole Screws
Wood glue
Stain or Paint
Cutting and Sanding
EquipmentList:
CircularorTableSaw
JigsaworBandSaw
23gaugePinner/KregPocketHoleJig
OrbitalSander#150grit/SandPaper-#120grit
PowerHandDrill/Screwdriver
24”Clamps
Determine which two pieces will be the front and side for the opening Based on the size of your cat(s), determine the height of the opening and the desired shape (elliptical, square, round, etc ) I made the opening in ours 11" tall, with the rounded part scribed as part of a circle, so that when I laid the two pieces together flat, edge-to-edge, it appeared to be an elongated circle The front piece is straight for 10" before the circle connects The side piece is straight for about 7" I next measured 3" up from the bottom of these two pieces There's some solid wood at the bottom of the planned cut to provide structure as it's assembled and a bit of space to insert a towel or small padded bed inside (See line drawing plans)
Once you have drawn your cut lines, carefully cut just outside the lines with a jigsaw or band saw These cuts can then be sanded smooth by hand or with the orbital sander Baltic Birch is made from many layers of Birch, and exposed edges can look lovely when carefully sanded--even with a clear topcoat--as shown in the photo.
Next, take your Top and Bottom pieces. You can carefully sand the exposed edges smoothly, with a little round-over transition to the flat surface, or just sand and leave them square. Determine where you want to position your purchased legs and mark those places on the “bottom” of the Bottom. We’ll get back to those in a minute. Treat your Top piece as you did the Bottom, sanding the exposed edges into your preferred style.
For this project using the Baltic Birch, I’m just going to “butt” end the corners, joining them using glue and a pinner, or even better, pocket holes with screws (Kreg Jigs are super easy and very secure if you want to go that route, and they have great how-to videos on their website)
If you decide to use pocket holes and screws, make the pocket holes in the front and back of the two sides Include at least two pocket holes above the entrance and one pocket hole below the entrance The rule of thumb is at least one pocket hole every 5-6” Use clamps to keep the pieces secure as you insert the screws, ensuring your edges are flush
Assembly
Dry-fit your Front, Back, and necessary. Apply wood glue to both cor
If you choose to use the pin rner surface om the outside 23-gauge pins, at least 1-1/4" long, would be optimal for this application. Repeat for all corners. Allow the glue to set for at least 45 minutes.
On the "bottom" of the Bottom, make a line 3/8" from the edge on all four sides. On this line, you will want to drill pilot holes for your cabinet screws to attach the sides to the Bottom. At this time, also drill pilot holes for your attachment method of the purchased legs.
Placing the cabinet box upside down, apply wood glue to the Bottom of all four edges Allow the glue to set for at least 45 minutes Place the Bottom on the box, and insert cabinet screws to attach the Bottom to the box Attach the purchased legs as preferred
Turn the piece right side up Apply wood glue to the edges of the box, and within the ¾" edges of the Top Place the Top on the box and ensure it's properly aligned Use the pinner once again I recommend 23-gauge, 1-1/4" long pins
Paint the exterior, or apply a clear topcoat to all surfaces Insert a towel or small bed and let your kitty enjoy!!!
We're too excited to wait for the top and drawer to be added!
SAVANNAH CAT RESCUE
Founded in 2003, Savannah Cat Rescue (SVR) is a volunteer service (not brick and mortar) by Savannah breeders: Kristine Alessio and Brigitte Cowell Moyne, with a core group of volunteers across the United States and Canada The mission of SVR is to rescue Savannah Cats and provide education to the public about the Savannah Cat Breed
SVR cats come from various places, primarily breeders who've sold kittens to owners who are unprepared or unable to care for a Savannah Second, the breeder didn't assume responsibility when new owners needed help or decided to return the cat. A good breeder will always take back a cat they've bred, regardless of age or circumstances. Luckily, most Savannah breeders fall into this "good" category!
When owners first contact the SVR, they prefer to help them work through any problem(s) they may have Suppose a resolution is unsuccessful or the owner loses the patience or ability to deal with the situation In that case, SVR can take possession of the cat with the owner's agreement (a legal surrender form)
SVR identifies qualified foster homes and places rescued cats for evaluation until they are placed into permanent homes SVR will work with foster homes
If necessary, rehabilitate cats, have them vetted (vaccinated and spayed/neutered), and evaluate any special needs or requirements. SVR gives first preference to foster homes if their home is a good fit.
Adoption fees for each Rescue Savannah are usually $200, and donations also fund SCR.
Although the Savannah breed is young, it's growing fast, and the number of Savannah cats and catteries producing Savannahs is increasing SVR expects to see more Savannah cats in Rescue in the future, but this is NOT a reflection of a breed problem, merely a fact of feline life
We showcase available rescued Savannah cats on the SVR Facebook page or https://groups.io/g/SavannahCatRescue. SVR never knows when a cat will become available in any location Rescue Savannahs are typically adult cats of varying generations, ages, and genders and are rarely kittens All Savannahs available for adoption through SVR will be spayed or neutered and come from a foster or the current owner's home.
Check the Hybrid Law site to ensure Savannahs are legal where you live before inquiring about an available Savannah. SVR will NOT adopt to anyone living in an illegal area! If in doubt about your community's legality, homeowners association, city, county, state, or province, contact your local Animal Control officer Always ensure you're legally compliant with the number of pets you may own We do require landlord permission and proof to own a cat if you rent or lease your home.
Shared with permission from SVR. Please consider donating to the SVR here.
Savannah Cat Care Fund
Savannah Cat Care Fund (SVCCF) is an all-volunteer 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization that seeks to provide financial assistance throughout the United States to Savannah pet cat owners who cannot afford emergency care for their Savannah cats SVCCF financial assistance applies to all illnesses and injuries requiring immediate emergency or urgent care
The fund started because we were disheartened by the Savannah cats euthanized or surrendered when the owner(s) couldn't pay veterinary bills This fund has been years in the making, and as our breed grows, so do its needs
The Savannah Cat Rescue team needed an organization to help pet Savannahs BEFORE being surrendered or euthanized. A group evolved, and the idea came to fruition with many people's help The SVCCF works with Savannah Cat Rescue to save our precious Savannahs The SVCCF works with the community and anyone needing emergency funds to save or help their Savannah cat
The goals of the Savannah Cat Care Fund are:
To generate financial support for the organization's initiatives through outreach and fundraising, primarily focusing on providing financial assistance to Savannah pet cat owners experiencing financial hardship due to unanticipated emergency/urgent cat care expenses
To work with Savannah Rescue and help/save Savannah cats BEFORE they're surrendered or euthanized due to an owner's inability to provide emergency veterinary care.
To work with veterinarians on accepting pet insurance and allowing owners to pay only deductibles and copays;
To provide education and resources to Savannah owners as needed.
We define a Savannah cat as (a) a Savannah with TICA registration; or, (b) a Savannah rescued from SV Rescue with proof of such; or (c) a cat with no registration papers but deemed a Savannah by the SVCCF Board of Directors or their appointees; or, (d) a Savannah recognized and confirmed as such by the cat's breeder
FAQ - ASK AUNTIE VANNAH
Is there a subscription fee to read SAVANNAHGANS® Magazine?
The e-magazine and website are a labor of love from one Savannah lover to all others. However, many expenses exist, such as web hosting, insurance, illustrator/artist, marketing, etc. If you love the magazine and wish to support it, please consider becoming a "Friend of SAVANNAHGANS®" for $1 per month (similar to Patreon)
How
is
SAVANNAHGANS® Magazine available to read?
Click on "THE Magazine" in the menu and select the issue you wish to read It will open in full size with navigation arrows for page-turning.
There's so much great information here! How and when did this begin?
Debra Roberts (me) began this venture in February 2020 after experiencing a breeder scam and then a kitten with FIP There was much-needed work within the community to help and educate buyers like herself I published the first issue on June 15, 2020
I have a Savannah story or article I'd like to share/write. How can I get it published?
You can submit your story idea by clicking on the "About/Contact" tab in the website's menu All inquiries will receive a response within 48 hours
How
often is SAVANNAHGANS® e-Magazine published?
SAVANNAHGANS® publishes on the first day of each quarter: January, April, July, and October.
How can I purchase ad space for my business or cattery?
Click the "Contact" tab on the top of the home page to inquire about ads and the Breeder Directory.
Feline Behavior Basics: Learning Their Language (Part 1)
Written by: Dr Jenny Beard Biehunko DVM, Resident ACVB
We, humans, are very demonstrative critters Unlike humans, our kitties communicate mainly using their senses of smell, touch, and sight (body language) We use very "loud" body language, facial expressions, and language to communicate Dogs, too, tend to wear their hearts on their sleeve when using body language to communicate Cats, however, tend to be much more subtle in their communication Learning what our cats are saying to other non-humans and family members can be very important
Here's a brief discussion of feline body language, and I've provided resources for more detailed information below We need to know how our cat communicates to see whether they're happy, stressed, or in pain and catch early signs of conflict. A cat's body language behavior is either affiliative ("come closer") or antagonistic ("go away").
Affiliative Behaviors:
· Grooming, proximity, and cuddling.
· Flagpole (upright tail) infers a happy greeting.
· Bonded cats will often wrap around each other
· Cats will often give a slow, soft blink to indicate trust and affection
· Rubbing and head butting indicate trust and affection Antagonistic Behaviors:
Threat-signaling may include direct stares, body blocking, forward and stiff ears, hissing, growling, tail twitching, or lashing Stress and Fear:
Very fearful cats may show "Halloween cat" posture: standing sideways, arched back, bottle brush tail, fur standing up, ears pinned to head...essentially trying to make themselves look bigger (usually done if cornered).
Fearful cats may also try to appear small, curling into a ball with a tail tightly wrapped around their bodies.
· Ears to the side ("airplane ears") indicate varying levels of concern, stress, annoyance, or fear.
· The more fearful and aroused the cat, the farther back the ears. A highly aroused and fearful cat will have its ears pinned flat to a high head.
· Dilated eyes indicate high arousal.
Appeasement or Displacement Gestures:
A stressed, frustrated, or feeling threatened cat may show gestures that diffuse the situation or ask for space These include liplicking, gulping, sudden or prolonged self-grooming, looking away, moving away, turning the head away, and yawning If your cat is performing these behaviors, look for the source of conflict
Pain and Sickness:
Cats tend to hide signs of illness, and behavior changes may be the only early disease indicators
Cats in pain may hide, be less social, and stop grooming or eating
They may vocalize more
They may sleep more or less.
They may move away, flinch, or aggressively react when picked up, petted, or restrained.
Other signs of pain can include teeth grinding, lack of using the litter box, and purring.
ANY acute change in behavior warrants a trip to the vet.
Using Training to Teach a Common Language
Why is Training Important?
We can train cats to perform behaviors they associate with relaxation and focus and affiliate with positive emotions. We can use such behaviors to help our kitties form new and positive emotional associations. We can also use them to redirect our kitty from triggers for emotional arousal. For instance, if we see our kitty start to fixate on the housemate he sometimes chases, we can use a "come when called" cue or a hand target to redirect him.
We can also train cats to do something incompatible with another unwanted activity For instance, we can get a cat to go to a "station" like a cat tree instead of jumping on the counter while making dinner Here's a little terminology about how cats, and all species, learn, along with links to resources on the science of learning
Classical Conditioning means that learning occurs when a neutral stimulus (a sound, sight, or smell that previously didn't mean anything) comes to predict a specific response Making this association without conscious thought causes an involuntary and emotional response Your cat, therefore, has no control over his response The reaction can be negative (fear) or positive (happiness or calmness) but is always accompanied by a physiological response The individual has no control and is known as a Pavlovian response
Classical Conditioning occurs at the primitive, emotional level and can create powerful emotional reactions that are difficult to "unlearn." Associations made from fear or pain are powerful, and this form of learning overshadows all other states. An example of classical Conditioning is when your cat learns that the sound of a can opener means food is coming and starts to drool. Another example is when your cat becomes frightened at the sight of the carrier when you bring it out to take him to the vet.
Operant Conditioning is a form of learning that occurs when your cat makes a conscious decision to perform a behavior based on the consequence of his actions If we reward the behavior, he'll do it more He'll do it less if we punish him, thus what we usually think of as "training "
Reinforcement is anything applied (positive) or taken away (negative) to increase a behavior's occurrence An example of Positive Reinforcement is to give your cat a yummy treat if approaching on cue when you've called the cat's name Teaching your horse to pick up his foot by pinching his foot's skin and stopping once he picks it up is a Negative Reinforcement
Negative Reinforcement involves the application of something aversive It's impossible to experience operant conditioning alone. Some form of Classical Conditioning always comes with it. That is why HOW you train is even more important than
WHAT you train You want to create good emotional associations and avoid bad ones For this reason, we use positive reinforcement-based training and avoid Punishment (See the Resource section for an article on Punishment)
Positive Reinforcement Training is fun for cats and increases our bond with them Training gives your kitty an opportunity for mental stimulation and Enrichment.
Punishment, by definition, is anything you apply (positive) or remove (negative) to decrease a behavior. (Here, positive and negative don't mean "good" or "bad.") If you spray your cat with a water bottle to stop him from clawing, that's positive Punishment. If your cat is vocalizing for attention while you pet him and walk away to get him to stop, that's negative Punishment. For something to be a punishment, it needs to be aversive or scary enough to stop a behavior by definition.
Desensitization is the process of exposing your cat to a scary or upsetting thing at an intensity that doesn't scare him and then gradually increasing the intensity of that stimulus The most important part of this process is that the kitty never has a fearful response and remains under the threshold
Counterconditioning is changing your kitty's previous negative, fearful-conditioned emotional response from a stimulus to a positive one Pair the scary thing (at a level that isn't scary) with a positive emotional association stimulus, which means Counterconditioning and Desensitization are best when done together
Conditioned Reinforcer means to pair a neutral stimulus (a clicker) with a positive conditioned stimulus (food) until the neutral stimulus comes to predict the positive one. I use the word "yes."
Shaping teaches more complex behavior (settling on a mat) by rewarding successive approximations of the behavior. For instance, I might start rewarding my cat for simply looking at the mat. Then, I might wait for her to approach the mat. Then, I might ask for one foot on the mat, etc.
Luring is using a tool to elicit the desired behavior. For instance, I might use a toy or a treat to attract my cat toward the mat and reward that behavior
Training a Behavior:
Motivation is using something your kitty loves as a reward Motivation might be playing with a toy, scratching, grooming, or feeding a treat You may need to experiment with many different things, and the reward may need to change based on circumstances
If using food treats, use only a tiny piece or a puréed food in a syringe or tube (i e , Churu)
Pick a marker word as a Conditioned Reinforcer Say this word just as the cat performs the wanted behavior It should be one syllable (i.e., "Yes") and means, "that's the behavior we want, and a reward is coming"
Shaping" the goal behavior means we start with the slightest approximation of the behavior the kitty can give. We'll reward that behavior, and when the kitty is doing that fluently, we'll start asking for a higher criterion.
Don't punish or correct. Wait for the behavior and reward. If the kitty can't give the proper behavior, back up and ask for an easier one.
You can also "lure,"; meaning to use something like a toy or treat to lure the cat onto the target area or into the target behavior For instance, you could toss a treat onto the mat to initiate mat-settle behavior
Don't worry about using a name to cue the behavior until the cat is reforming the goal behavior at least 80 percent of the time Cats don't speak English
Special Kitty Considerations with Training:
Compared to humans, cats have more "real estate" in their brains devoted to sensory processing and emotional associations and less decision-making and deep thinking These reasons are why a kitty may be easily distracted by noise and movement Practice when calm and quiet, and hug each cat individually
1 Cats are far-sighted, so rewards and cues should be at least six inches away from your kitty's nose
2 Cats often need to investigate a treat before taking it, and they generally take a little while to eat it Use either tiny and easily chewed foods or a purée style treat (Churu)
3 Give the kitty time to groom herself after eating her treat
4 Kitties have a short attention span and are often easily frustrated Do short sessions (less than five minutes and keep it interesting by breaking the goal behavior into manageable steps Make sure you end the session on a good note
5.Cats sometimes take more time to process what we ask and offer a behavior than dogs.
Foundation Exercises:
1.Name recognition and recall.
2.Look.
3.Touch.
4 Go to a place and become an "on" and "off" switch (later)
5 Harness/walking jacket, (links in resources) Teaching Your Cat to Wear a Harness
6 Carrier habituation Sleepy Pod How to Habituate Your Cat to a Carrier
Introducing New Cats:
Create a "Catopia": A room that separates the new cat from the others The new kitty should have his own resources (food, water, enrichment, resting and hiding areas, toys, and litterbox) in an easily accessible and safe place (Note: The reintroduction process with housemate aggression cases involves the same basic approach However, it must be done more gradually and with guidance
Environmental Enrichment: (see the resource section)
Indirect lighting (no harsh overhead fluorescent lights).
Lots of vertical spaces with cat trees, shelving, etc.
Keep him feeling safe. Hiding places that don't allow other cats or strays to look in windows.
Pheromones plug-ins (Feliway or Multi-Cat)
Plenty of marking opportunities (scratching, rubbing, etc )
Plenty of play outlets, hunting, and mental stimulation (food dispensing toys, i e , small meals they work for) Hide them around the room and use the timed dispenser to distribute these treats
Make sure they aren't too complicated, and your cat enjoys them
You may need to experiment
Spend quality time interacting with kitty
Place a remote camera in the room to be sure kitty is happy when you aren't there (watch for stress-signaling vs normal behavior)
Be sure to add the same Enrichment to the rest of the house
Begin teaching basic foundation behaviors and administer medication, IF warranted, for reintroduction situations.
When There Are No Signs of Stress:
Begin scent swapping and bedding exchange Do this for seven days until there are no signs of stress, then allow the cats to "timeshare " Remove the resident cats and allow the new cat to explore the communal areas without them present
Don't allow other cats into the "Catopia" room
Do this for one week with no stress signs
Once the foundation behaviors are fluent and the other steps accomplished, create a barrier in the "Catopia" room doorway, where the cats can see each other but not touch (a screened door or stacked baby gates) Only open the door to give free access during supervised sessions
Start by having one person on each side of the barrier Hand-feed high-value treats to each cat or introduces a lure toy at a distance from the barrier where there's no fixating between cats The cats should essentially be ignoring each other Do short sessions, gradually getting closer and closer to the barrier until the cats are side by side It's easiest to work with one resident cat at a time. If one cat becomes fixated, redirect with a foundation behavior, lure toy or treat and end the session.
Once accomplished, start feeding meals across the barrier, at a distance, and work closer each session. Once all cats are comfortably eating meals next to the barrier, add one resident cat at a time to the sessions.
Once you accomplish this step, you can start to allow the new cat out with supervision (if reintroducing, you may want to use a harness first). Interrupt and redirect any fixating, threatening, or aroused body language.
Throughout all steps, it's advisable to use a black light to sweep the home in the dark to ensure no marking or inappropriate elimination
