Vantage Magazine April 2015

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contents Off to a good start

Scene

10 alice always

38 for king and country

Alice Temperley's eponymous brand marks 15 years in business with the launch of a lifestyle line

14 colour uncoded

90

Mark the 800th year of the Magna Carta's signing through a new exhibition at the British Library

41 STAGE RIGHT

Is it blue and black or white and gold? Why the optical illusion that divided the internet has thrust the science of colour into the limelight

Legendary critic David Thomson examines our perceptions of good and bad acting

45 WISHLIST

Meet Dutch designer Marcel Wanders on the eve of the opening of his latest project, the Kameha Grand Zurich Hotel

Pucci and Orlebar Brown collaborate on swimwear collection

48 geek chic

23 wishlist

Blossom scents from Jo Malone

46 STYLE UPDATE

Yoko London's show-stopping pearly whites

As Apple launches the iWatch this month, we look at the fashion industry's role in wearable tech

30 jewellery news

52 le freak c'est chic

Lauren Bacall's jewellery collection goes on sale and Tessa Packard launches 'Fat Free'

Get into the groove with tan and mustard toned accessories

66 water works

Test drive The Berkeley's Haybarn Spa and rooftop pool

Interiors 69 wishlist

Style

18 WANDERS OF THE WORLD

Collection

52

60 THE LIST

Nod to the 1970s with fringed edges, flowing silhouettes and vivacious colour palettes

60

Fromental's bespoke wallpaper

70 INTERIORS INSPIRATION

A Fornasetti coffee-table tome

72 a stylish life

Carly Madhvani opens her NW3 Interiors showroom to talk family life and timeless style

Health & Family 77 Wishlist Blue Almonds' Bunny Chair

78 NURSERY NEWS

Missoni's mini Margherita range comes to yoox.com

Food & Drink 87 wishlist

70

Pierre Marcolini in Marylebone

88 foodie favourites

18

Kobe beef at Engawa

90 seoul food At home with TV chef Judy Joo

10

Travel 95 WISHLIST Lakeside luxury by Yoo

98 lady of the manor

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48

Step back in time at Ireland’s sleepy Ballyfin Demesne

104 LIFE OF THAI

An exotic journey full of sun, sand and noodles


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From the editor

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here was quite a change of mood at Temperley London’s SS15 catwalk show as we witnessed the mainline fuse with the Alice by Temperley diffusion range for the first time. Glamorous gowns were replaced with loose-fitting trousers, billowing skirts and patterned kimonos. “I wanted the new Temperley London line to be about what women around me want,” the brand's eponymous founder Alice explains. “It’s much more of an effortless feel." As the great British label turns 15, and Alice marks her 40th birthday this summer, she talks to Olivia Sharpe about expanding into lifestyle and hitting milestones (p. 10). Whether it’s for his maverick creations or outlandish methods, Dutch designer Marcel Wanders has come to be known as the Lady Gaga of the interiors world. Rising to international fame in the mid-nineties for his iconic Knotted Chair, he has since won an array of industry awards, and is still recognised as one of the most exciting players in the field. “I don’t run behind trends, I run behind my ideas. I hope to be a leader and as a leader you have to be solo, you cannot follow,” he says. I get a rare interview on the eve of the opening of his latest project, the Kameha Grand Zurich Hotel (p. 18). With a rumbling stomach, Lauren Romano pays a visit to TV chef Judy Joo’s Marylebone apartment (and kitchen). With new restaurant Jinjuu opening to rave reviews (you haven’t lived until you’ve tried her Korean fried chicken) and a past life partying at the Playboy Mansion, we dare you not to fall in love with this inspirational go-getter (p. 90). Elsewhere, Ellen Millard tracks the rise of wearable technology, and what it means for the high-fashion industry (p. 48); and we look at the science behind colour therapy and explain why industry experts are giving it the green light (p. 14). Plus, we bring you three very different Easter holiday options: Ireland (p. 98), Hamburg (p. 101) and Thailand (p. 104). Whichever you choose, just don’t forget Kari Colmans your holiday reading… Editor Follow us on Twitter @VantageNW

Surf's Up, p. 46 Image courtesy of Orlebar Brown SS15, orlebarbrown.co.uk

Runwild Media Group Publishers of: Canary Wharf, The City Magazine The Kensington & Chelsea Magazine The Mayfair Magazine

APRIL 2015 issue 57

Editor Kari Colmans

Editorial Director Kate Harrison

Assistant Editor Lauren Romano Collection Editor Annabel Harrison

Production Alex Powell Hugo Wheatley Oscar Viney Alice Ford

Contributing Editors Richard Brown, Olivia Sharpe

General Manager Fiona Fenwick

Sub Editor Jasmine Phillips

Executive Director Sophie Roberts

Features Writer Ellen Millard

Client Relationship Director Friday Dalrymple

Senior Designer Daniel Poole

Managing Director Eren Ellwood

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RUNWILD MEDIA GROUP

6th Floor, One Canada Square Canary Wharf, London, E14 5AX rwmg.co.uk 020 7987 4320 Members of the Professional Publishers Association Runwild Media Ltd. cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited submissions, manuscripts and photographs. While every care is taken, prices and details are subject to change and Runwild Media Ltd. takes no responsibility for omissions or errors. We reserve the right to publish and edit any letters. All rights reserved. DISTRIBUTION Vantage magazine is distributed throughout Hampstead, Highgate, Primrose Hill, St John’s Wood, Maida Vale, Marylebone, Regent’s Park and the surrounding areas. For complete maps please visit our website.


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lice lways

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As Temperley London celebrates its 15th anniversary this year, Olivia Sharpe speaks to founder Alice Temperley MBE about the brand’s exciting move into lifestyle

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lice temperley has much to celebrate this year. Not only is it her company’s 15th anniversary but July also marks her 40th birthday, something which she has no qualms in telling me she is “terrified about”. Despite joking how she is “still waking up” when answering the phone at 10am on a Monday morning, Alice appears almost intimidatingly bright as a button as she launches straight into what her company has got planned for 2015. Business as usual, there is no time for small talk. There was quite a change of mood at Temperley London’s SS15 catwalk show as we witnessed the mainline fuse with the Alice by Temperley diffusion range for the first time. The newest collection, which the designer referred to as an “evolution at Temperley London”, came as quite a shock to the industry which had become used to the house’s consistent offering of evening dresses and pareddown classics. Instead the fresh, modern line saw glamorous gowns replaced with loose-fitting trousers, billowing skirts and shrimpemblazoned kimonos. Relaxed and understated, it was lauded by the press for its cleanness and precision. An evolution indeed.

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“People assume it’s all pretty and feminine but it’s no longer about that. Alice appears shrewder than ever as she explains the commercial reasons for having merged the two collections together. “I wanted the new Temperley London line to be about what women around me want,” she explains. “It’s much more of an effortless feel. We’ve all got demanding lives so we need a lot from our wardrobes and the SS15 collection gives you that.” Alice realised that the modern woman no longer wants to “totter around town in matching outfits” but is instead looking for “relaxed luxury” and so decided to combine the elegance and formality of Temperley London with the decidedly more casual Alice by Temperley line to create one, cohesive collection. Unlike the majority of high fashion houses, Alice has had the luxury of owning her company since launching it back in 2000 and this is no doubt why it has maintained such a strong identity throughout.

As young as 11, the tenacious young woman already seemed to be subconsciously establishing her brand’s vision. Reminiscing about how she was “absolutely obsessed with black-and-white movies” starring the likes of Ginger Rogers and Marlene Dietrich, she would “try to recreate their big pouffy dresses by cutting up mum’s fabrics” while growing up on a farm in rural Somerset. As a side venture, she also made jewellery which she sold to her parents’ cider house. A few years later, Alice moved to London and studied textiles at Central Saint Martins; while working as a waitress to support herself, she also made clothes on the side. It was at this time that she met her future business partner and husband Lars von Bennigsen. Together, they founded Temperley London, which today encompasses five standalone stores, two of which are based in London (Mayfair and Notting Hill), as

well as an online boutique. Starting off as just one collection, the brand slowly grew over the years into three separate lines: Temperley London, Temperley Bridal (launched in 2006, offering made-to-order and ready-to-wear styles) and finally Alice by Temperley, launched in 2010. The designer herself has become globally recognised for her profound influence on the industry, named one of Britain’s top 35 female business leaders in 2006 and named Designer of the Year at the Hollywood Style Awards in 2011. Her biggest achievement came also in this year when she was honoured with an MBE by Her Majesty the Queen. Alice admits to having changed a good deal over the years and this has no doubt been reflected in her brand. As well as being in love with whimsical evening dresses which hark back to a bygone era, she has always been unashamedly proud of her British heritage. She has


i n t e rv i e w

There’s nothing worse than a woman looking as though she’s trying too hard” reimagined tartan capes, lace bodies and Victorian blouses season after season, and has previously collaborated with quintessentially British brands such as Barbour and Twinings. As a result of this, Temperley London has amassed quite a British female cult following over the years, including Emma Watson, Keira Knightley and most notably, the Middleton sisters. The Duchess of Cambridge is often seen sporting Temperley designs and the slinky green number worn by Pippa Middleton was one of the mosttalked about things during the Royal Wedding (aside from her derrière, of course). However, Alice’s rural upbringing and romantic, ethereal style quickly led to the designer being branded with the ‘boho’ tag by the press, something which she tells me she used to loathe but now no longer has a problem with: “At first I hated it because it felt like I was being pigeonholed into West London when really, if anything, I’m West Country boho. But now I sort of love it,” she says, smiling. “It gives me the freedom to combine my clients’ love of travel with my own style at the same time.” I tentatively ask Alice whether her mellowed attitude has got anything to do with motherhood (her son, Fox, is six years-old). “The balancing act is the hardest thing to do as a mother,” she answers. “The company wants you, the business wants you but you also have to find time for yourself. My weekends are all about my boy and I try and get home from work as early as possible so I can give him as much time as he needs.” Alice and her family have lived in Notting Hill for several years and so she sees the area very much as her home: “I love the village atmosphere and how all the shop people seem to know each other,” she muses, fondly. “It feels very safe and it’s the sort of area that’s always changing but still maintaining its identity.” Although feminine in many ways, there has always been a masculine edge to the designer’s collections and this has increasingly become more pronounced. “There’s definitely a tomboy element,” she insists. “People assume it’s all pretty and feminine but it’s no longer about that. There’s nothing worse than a woman looking as though she’s trying too hard.” For Alice, it is very much all “about educating people about how the brand should be worn”, and it would appear as though the latest, unified collection aligns with her own

self-assured voice. “I love suits and the whole attitude of pairing a crisp white shirt with leather trousers,” she states, confidently. “Today, for instance, I’ve got on a three-piece suit which incorporates English fabrics but is Italian-made. I don’t want to make clothes that you can get anywhere; they need to have a point of difference.” Alice may now know exactly what she wants from her fashion house but, having started her business in 2000 shortly before the recession, she evidently had to learn how to move with the times in order to stay relevant. When she first started, she notes how most English designers were heading up French houses or working in America and not that many had their own collections. However, over the last decade, there has been an “explosion” of a new generation of “business-savvy designers”. This she largely puts down to the British Fashion Council (BFC) which was set up in 1983 with the aim of developing London’s position in the international fashion arena. “The British fashion industry is the most exciting place to be at the moment,” she comments. “You’ve got a whole new wave of designers coming through: your Erdems, your Katrantzous and your Peter Pilottos. All of these designers who are very much print trained and English focused and the BFC has supported them and put them in touch with suppliers, resulting in British fashion now becoming something that is viable and generates a huge amount of income. Consider how seriously France, Italy and America take the industry and now Britain has joined the ranks.” Always looking to the future, the next exciting step for Temperley London is to evolve into a British luxury lifestyle brand. While Alice remains firmly tight-lipped as to what exactly this will entail, she does hint that her five-year plan to extend Temperley’s current product categories will compare to what American brand emporium Ralph Lauren has achieved. “Over the next 15 years, I’d like Temperley to develop into a whole lifestyle brand, where you’ve got various other product categories apart from fashion. Not many English brands do the lifestyle thing and it’s a huge area to move into because old British style can be quite stuffy when it should be ethereal, romantic and beautiful.” For her A/W15 collection, the designer presented a few select accessories to go alongside the main fashion line, including loafers and soft bags, which were well-received. Never content with resting on her laurels, Alice and her team have just completed moving the bridal collection from the Notting Hill store to the Mayfair flagship boutique, meaning that the complete Temperley London collection is now housed on Colville Mews. She comments: “I am very excited to be re-launching the Colville Mews boutique into a place where you can pop in, have a cup of tea or a glass of wine – a much more Notting Hill way of shopping!” With this and so much more to come, there is clearly no slowing down for Alice Temperley. n

Temperley London, 2-10 Colville Mews, W11 temperleylondon.com

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colour uncoded Is it blue and black or white and gold? Lauren Romano discovers why the optical illusion that divided the internet has thrust the science of colour into the limelight


f e at u r e

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s Kim and Kanye disagreed over the colour of that dress – a debate that involved millions of internet users the world over and helped coin the hash tag #TheDress on countless copycat posts – the chromatic confusion saw everyone pitching their own theories. Even style bible Vogue threw in its two cents. While Dressgate dies down and we digest the science behind it – something about wavelengths, visual cortex and other words that evoke vague memories of physics classrooms and dusty GCSE revision books – the idea that colour can alter our vision and ultimately how we perceive the world around us is stirring curiosity. Scientific research into colour certainly isn’t something new, but once a dinner party topic to be discussed solely within white lab-coat wearing circles, it is now making ripples in the publishing world too.

Last month saw the release of a new colouring book for adults. The eagerly anticipated Colour Therapy: An Anti-Stress Colouring Book by Cindy Wilde, Laura-Kate Chapman and Richard Merritt is not the first foray into this most unlikely sounding of genres for Michael O’Mara Books. The independent publisher has been releasing adult jotters since 2012, and this latest title is the follow up to the The Art Therapy Book, which has been reprinted five times since its original publication in June 2014. Doodling is evidently having a moment. “Colouring has therapeutic benefits – it helps you switch off from the daily grind,” Colour Therapy’s co-illustrator Richard Merritt tells me. Arranged into seven sections, each double page concentrates on a different palette so readers can colour to soothe and suit their mood. “Colouring allows us to go back to a

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slower pace,” he adds. “If you put a piece of paper and a crayon in front of a child, they’ll start drawing, but I think as an adult you lose that spontaneity.” The book jacket lauds further plaudits on the merits of a colouring-in session, claiming that it can lower anxiety, help you sleep better and increase your attention span. And while this might sound like a tall order, the evidence supporting colour therapy is stacking up. Scientists argue that the right hue can have a profound impact on our mood and overall health. It was the ancient Egyptians who first used colour to heal. Papyrus scrolls from 1550 BC suggest that they built temples dedicated to the purpose, where the sick could be revitalised. They believed that the seven colours of the rainbow relate to the seven chakras, or energy centres, of the body. Today 21st century treatments range from coloured silks draped around a patient to high-tech beams aimed at key ‘colourpuncture points’. Lilian Verner-Bonds, president of the International Association of Colour, tells me that the pigments a client is drawn to will provide an insight into their health. “Every colour oscillates at a different rate and each part of the body responds to a particular colour,” she says. “When we feel stressed or ill we can use the appropriate shade to restore balance.” Beau Lotto, a neuroscientist at University College London explains in a recent article in The Telegraph that colour is a result of how the receptors in our eyes interpret wavelengths of electromagnetic radiation. He states that optical illusions, such as the aforementioned shade-shifting dress, can occur depending on what surrounds the object. Look at something under shadow and it’ll appear lighter than when it’s on a darker background, he says – in other words it’s a simple trick of perspective. Certain hues are more black and white. Ask people what the colour red represents and they’ll say it denotes anger, perhaps even desire, while blue is calming and clarifying. These culturally approved assumptions are true to a certain extent. Documented evidence confirms that red is rousing: red pills are more effective at perking you up than blue ones and paintings with burgundy brushstrokes are known to fetch higher prices at auction. Meanwhile sports teams that wear red have a better chance of winning than competitors dressed in other colours – ten per cent more according to a study conducted by the University of Münster. As for blue, however, it might be the colour of choice for sleeping tablets, but recent research has shown that supposedly serene blue light (emitted from tablets, laptops and smartphones) actually affects our sleeping patterns by supressing the sleep-inducing

hormone melatonin. In fact, because of the alertness it induces, certain bandwidths of blue light are increasingly harnessed in the treatment of Seasonal Affective Disorder. Pink, meanwhile, possesses more powerful characteristics than its associations with femininity suggest. Researcher Alexander Schauss documented the effects of exposure to the shade on inmates at a naval prison in Seattle in the seventies, coining his own specific bubblegum-esque ‘Baker-Miller’ pink in the process. He noted that 15 minutes in a cell painted this colour was sufficient to significantly reduce violent and aggressive behaviour, lower heart rate and even muscular strength. But aside from banishing phones from the bedroom so we can get 40 winks – and supporting football teams on the basis of their kit – how can we harness the power of colour day to day? In her book How Not to Wear Black Jules Standish champions injecting specific colours into our wardrobes to help improve our mood. “The media, fashion stores and designers everywhere would have us believe that black is the colour to be seen in if you want to look slimmer, chic and stylish. However,


f e at u r e

I saw so many people, particularly women, who had no idea just how ageing it was. Who wants to look a size slimmer but ten years older?” she says. As a personal style and colour consultant Jules matches clients with their perfect shades to help them look and feel their best. If you suffer from stress, for example, cool blues can stimulate the release of the calming hormone oxytocin; warm, bright colours can improve your mood; and red is a good bet for dieters as the shade is said to trigger the pituitary and adrenal glands, which can lead to increased metabolism. “We have all experienced days when people comment on how well we look in a specific colour, and yet other days we can feel completely invisible,” she tells me. To remedy this, Jules offers a range of colour analysis services that pay close attention to an individual’s skin tone. “Pigments that harmonise with the skin are the ones that make the complexion look even and minimise lines, giving it a youthful appearance, sometimes as transformational as a face lift,” she smiles. She encourages her clients to fill out personality questionnaires to determine “what colour season each

individual’s temperament aligns with”. It might sound a bit hippy-dippy, but Jules’ innate style and shade nous has been sought by everyone from celebs to female executives. Her message is clear; the power of colour shouldn’t be underestimated. Figuring out what your true colours are doesn’t necessarily mean an overnight transformation, but if you’re looking for an instant pick-me-up, a copy of Colour Therapy might help. “It provides escapism,” illustrator Richard Merritt muses. “In that moment when you’re sitting down with a piece of paper and some pens you almost go back to being a kid again.” And in an adult world where it is increasingly difficult to switch off, the opportunity to step back and appreciate the eye-opening possibilities of colour is surely a worthwhile way to spend an afternoon. Pass the crayons. n

Colour Therapy: An Anti-Stress Colouring Book by Cindy Wilde, Laura-Kate Chapman and Richard Merritt published by Michael O’Mara Books, £12.99 colourconsultancy.co.uk; hownottowearblack.co.uk

All images from The Colour Therapy Colouring Book (Michael O’Mara Books)

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wanders of the

world Dubbed the Lady Gaga of the interiors world, Dutch designer Marcel Wanders became known internationally in the mid-nineties for his iconic Knotted Chair. He has since won an array of industry awards, and with around 2,000 projects to his name is still recognised as one of the most exciting players in the field. Kari Colmans gets a rare interview on the eve of the opening of his latest project, the Kameha Grand Zurich hotel


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t’s 7:30am London time, 11:30pm US time, and two minutes into a phone call with Marcel Wanders, it appears that he doesn’t appreciate his work being described as baroque. I won’t write down his exact response to my décor-related question for fear of causing a spat between whoever wrote the marketing material and the man at the helm of this much-lauded opening, but let’s just say Wanders would be happy to provide the man or woman with some informative reading material next time. He thinks that just because we’re all so used to such “depressive minimalism”, that the slightest splash of unexpected colour or texture – a sequin wall here, a giant bell there – has us all, wrongly, crying Bernini. With 245 rooms, including six business suites and 11 individually themed boudoirs, every space in the new hotel carries the designer’s maverick signature, which you’d be hard-pressed to describe as anything but ‘Wanders’ in spirit. At the highest level of the property, you’ll find the majestic King Kameha Suite and a wacky Space Suite (designed by artist and adventurist Michael Najjar), complete with a floating bed and photos of the galaxy taken by the Hubble space telescope. Other suites include the Poker Face, decked out with a roulette table and poker cards; Watchmaker, which is designed in cooperation with a luxury watch brand; and the Workout, with its own in-room gym. Elsewhere, Swiss-inspired elements include Willy Wonka-esque chocolate walls, and then you get to the shisha lounge, which takes its look from East Asia. A cigar smoker’s hub sports traditional British Chesterfields and dark parquet flooring while one of Wanders’ favourite spaces, the Puregold Bar, boasts the aforementioned gold sequinned wall. His other favourite features are the giant bells, one of which greets guests at the hotel’s entrance, while the other hangs in the Japanese restaurant Yu Nijyo. And while nobody is claiming the interior specifications mimic the frescoes of St Peter’s Basilica or Palazzo Barberini, you can’t deny its unabashed, in-your-face extravagance. Which is why, presumably, his flamboyance is often misinterpreted – and how he’s landed the ‘Lady Gaga

of design’ appellation. His thoughts? “Lady Gaga has a lot of different sides,” he muses in a thick Dutch accent. “She will always be able to surprise us. She has an exciting way of looking at the world. She will never be boring. It’s been quoted a lot and that’s fine.” Among Wanders’ most famous creations is the Knotted Chair, made for Cappellini out of carbon fibres in 1996, and it came to embody the iconoclast’s aesthetic. As his first impression on the industry, it has stood the test of time. Other celebrated initiatives include Big Shadow, also made for Cappellini in 1998, which took the silhouette of a classic lampshade to create a fully illuminated beacon. And while Wanders has done much since, he has no problem with people referencing his breakthrough work two decades on. “I made this piece a long time ago, based on a philosophy which I created. I wrote a book on design which discussed areas that were not so present in the design sector of that day,” he says. “I started working and following them, and the first thing that came out of that was the Knotted Chair. I’m still working on this philosophy and building on it today. A lot of items have sprung from that and I’m happy that people recognise a piece which is so old. It’s important that an object can stand the test of time, and for us in the studio it’s very important, remarkable, and iconic.” Talk turns to a lecture Wanders gave to an audience of young designers on being honest with

“You have to make design a part of you, a visual expression. It’s beautiful, it gives you power and strength”


i n t e rv i e w Over page from left: Marcel Wanders, image courtesy of Marcel Wanders; Puregold Bar at Kameha Grand Zurich Hotel This page from top: Big Shadow, 1998, by Marcel Wanders; Bar seating area at Kameha Grand Zurich Hotel; Yu Nijyo at Kameha Grand Zurich Hotel; Knotted Chair, 1996, by Marcel Wanders

themselves when it comes to their work, which culminated in his streaking across the stage in a bid to embrace his personal fears. “You have to really trust what you believe and what you feel is right, and so I told them this,” he laughs. “That is the only way that you will reach a point where you do something [unique to you] that nobody else will do. You have to make design a part of you, a visual expression. It’s beautiful, it gives you power and strength, it also makes you feel alone and you have to understand and accept that.” Although Wanders’ methods aren’t exactly run-of-the-mill… “There was a power cut in New York at the time, which is where I was speaking, so I had a lot of time to think about my presentation; maybe more than was good. I was very nervous about my speech and it was important to me to do this well. I dreamt about it the night before and I really felt overexcited. I felt naked on stage as I was so nervous, so that’s what I told them.” The lecture began and with every new subject, Wanders removed a piece of clothing: first one shoe, then the other, and then his jacket. “Nothing happened at first and then at some point people started to notice the pattern, so I went behind a lectern and I put on my swimwear and I threw a towel around myself, which I wore to finish off the last of the 10 subjects.

“So then I finished and I walked off stage with a big applause, and then someone else came on to thank me and to say that the lecture was over. I then ran to the other side of the stage while the light went on and off, so they were like ‘what’s happening?’ because they’d just had this blackout. And then a new slide popped up, and the slide said ‘rule number 11: always give more than people expect’, and then I ran on stage completely naked with a box of candy in my hand! I threw the candy while running, I threw the candy over the audience, I ran off and boom! All the lights went off. Completely dark in the room. And that was the speech. I did it once and I will never do it again, but it was a wonderful moment. People loved it, it was a cool speech. The subjects were interesting, people were engaged. People are visual, they want to see something, they want to hear something, they want to feel something. If you engage them in the conversation, if you don’t take yourself too seriously, if you really connect, people will notice and they will feel it.” For Wanders, there is nothing quite as boring as looking back, and he’s excited about what the future of technology will bring to the design industry. His philosophy is to be at the forefront of what is new and exciting. “I think about how technology and design have become brother and sister. If you think about ‘the internet of things’ and how technology has taught us more and more, there are such unique changes happening in so many areas. Together they create value for people and a whole versatile world of design. For some people it’s scary because they’re afraid of what they don’t know. I think it is the task of designers to make technology understandable, to give style to technology. I think there is great opportunity for ‘the internet of things’. I think it’s wonderful and something I’m really excited about.” When I ask what trends he’s particularly enamoured with, he seems offended that I’d think he’d know, or care. “I’m interested in changing the design of the scene my way. I don’t run behind trends, I run behind my ideas. I hope to be a leader and as a leader you have to be solo, you cannot follow. Trends are something that I have no interest in and no opinions on.” Splitting his time between Amsterdam, where he lives with his girlfriend and daughter, and globetrotting to keep up with various projects, he’s in London about three times a year, always staying in new hotels and dining at Hakkasan, which is his favourite restaurant in the capital. But of course he’s about to be spending a lot more time in Zurich. “Kameha is really in the middle of my heart and it’s been such a wonderful journey to make the hotel,” he says. “I think the teams have done such a great job. If you walk into any room you will see so many wonderful things. We tell our clients that we don’t design interiors, we design destinations. I hope you can find the right way to describe it.” So do I... n

Kameha Grand Zurich Hotel offers rates from £225 per room per night; +41 44 525 5000; zuerich@kameha.com; kamehagrandzuerich.com

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OUT OF THE SHELL If you hadn’t already worked it out, after seeing Lupita Nyong’o’s show-stealing custom-made Calvin Klein Oscars dress made entirely from a staggering 6,000 ivory pearls, you surely will have by now: this year, in the worlds of both fashion and fine jewellery, it’s all about pearls. It was little wonder, then, that the official jewellery sponsor to the 2015 BAFTAs was none other than Yoko London, one of the world’s leading luxury pearl jewellers since 1973. To mark this honour, the British company produced a series of show-stopping pieces, all of which highlight founder Michael Hakimian and his team’s commitment to using only the finest and rarest of these precious orbs, perfect in size, colour and lustre. Visit the Knightsbridge flagship to see the latest collections.

49 Beauchamp Place, SW3 yokolondon.com

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watch news The Collectors’ Chronograph

Defying Gravity

Until a century ago, all pocket chronographs had only one pushpiece, housed in the crown, which successively handled their start, stop and zero-reset functions. In 1915, Breitling became the first brand to offer a wrist chronograph, and, in doing so, became the first company to create a pushpiece independent of the crown that controlled the three chronograph operations. It chose to place the push piece at two o’clock, where it remains on nearly every chronograph to this day. To celebrate the invention, Breitling is introducing a limited series of its Transocean model; equipped with a brand new, two-tiered, double column-wheel calibre, the Transocean Chronograph 1915 will provide its 1,915 owners a handsome tribute to watchmaking history.

Introduced more than 200 years ago, as a mechanism designed to eliminate the effect of gravity on the regulating organ of a watch, the tourbillon remains one of the most complex components in watchmaking. Taking its complexity to new limits is Girard-Perregaux, which has developed a tourbillon with a regulating organ that rotates on three axes instead of the traditional one. It takes almost 160 hours for watchmakers to assemble the 317 components of the movement, which collectively weigh just 1.24g. Find it inside the recently launched white gold version of GP’s Tri-Axial Tourbillon.

Transocean Chronograph 1915 £6,790, Breitling breitling.com

White Gold Tri-Axial Tourbillon, POA, Girard-Perregaux girard-perregaux.com

one to watch Allun Michaels, store manager at Fraser Hart in Brent Cross, selects his watch of the month:

“The Zenith El Primero is one of the iconic chronographs, and this variant shows off the beating heart of the watch. Ticking at a scarcely believable 36,000 times per hour, the El Primero was the world’s first fully automatic chronograph. We particularly like it with the 1969 dial (pictured).” El Primero Chronograph, £6,300, Zenith Fraser Hart, Brent Cross, 020 8732 8459 BrentCross@fraserhart.co.uk @FHBrentCross

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The Art of Engraving Vacheron Constantin has updated its Métiers d’Art collection with two new timepieces equipped with beautiful, hand-engraved movements. The plates and bridges of the calibre 2260/1, which sits inside the Mecaniques Gravees 14-Day Tourbillon, feature acanthus leaf floral motifs lineengraved to a depth of 2/10ths of a millimetre – a fine example of art for art’s sake.

Mecaniques Gravees 14-Day Tourbillon, £272,050, Vacheron Constantin vacheron-constantin.com


Trident_ redefined.

THE NEW

TRIDENT

C60 TRIDENT GMT 600 – Swiss made dual time watch with automatic mechanical movement, graduated rotatable ceramic (ZrO2) bezel, arrow-headed 24 hour hand and water resistance to 60 bar/600m. Available in 38mm and 42mm case sizes, three dial/bezel combinations and four strap styles.

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ENGlIsh hEaRT

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16/03/2015 10:03


Reaching for the

STARS

As zenith notches up its 150th anniversary, Robin Swithinbank looks back at the iconic swiss watchmaker’s highs and lows

Above: Academy Georges Favre-Jacot, ÂŁ56,400


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uch is made of a watch company’s ability to make a watch movement ‘in-house’. Verticalisation, to use an industrial and far less romantic term, carries a kudos you won’t find attached to the outsourcing alternative, as if a watch built using a third-party case and movement is somehow inferior to one with a mechanical heart made under the same roof as the case, dial, hands and so on. Forgetting the debate this provokes for now (you can find arguments for both sides), what is less equivocal is that the roots of the theory lie in a decision made by a man named Georges Favre-Jacot some 150 years ago. Favre-Jacot believed making a watch more accurate, more precise and more reliable was only possible if all the skills required were brought onto the same premises, and if the processes involved were industrialised. With Rolex at the apex of brands trumpeting this approach today, that hardly sounds a revolutionary idea – but at the time, no one else in Switzerland was doing it. In 1865, Favre-Jacot founded a watchmaking company in the town of Le Locle in the Swiss Jura, and began turning his vision into a reality. He must have been some fellow – he was only 22 at the time, and within 10 years he was giving work to a third of the town’s working people. By the turn of the century, his company was producing 100,000 timepieces a year. At around the same time, Favre-Jacot gave his company a name, choosing an allegorical word that would associate it with the highest point in the firmament – he called it Zenith. To use today’s parlance, Zenith is still a manufacture brand. Bar a brief period last year when it flirted with the idea of outsourcing movements to a specialist manufacturer (the Pilot Montre d’Aéronef

Stamping tools

Academy Hurricane Grand Voyage II, £240,600

Type 20 Extra Special is one of a handful of Zenith watches with a Sellita movement), Zenith makes all of its own movements, on the same site in Le Locle where Favre-Jacot set up a century and a half ago. Very recent history has been good to Zenith. During the Noughties – if we must – Zenith was consumed by the bigger-is-better vortex, and rather lost its way. A change of management in 2009 brought an inventory clear-out, since then we’ve been spoiled with watches such as the Captain; all manner of models fuelled by the iconic El Primero calibre; and the pretty-and-smart Star ladies’ watch. Annual production had dropped to around 8,000 movements by the end of the last decade. Now it’s north of 45,000, with demand said to be outsourcing supply. But Zenith hasn’t always had it its own way. After more than a century of success – the company has 2,333 prizes for chronometry, more than any other watch brand – the nadir came in the 1970s. In 1972, Zenith had been sold to the Chicago-based Zenith Radio Corporation, a US electronics giant, which determined the Swiss company would make nothing but quartz watches (as was the prevailing trend at the time), and in 1975 ordered a depleted, demoralised workforce – 850 of 1,000 Zenith staff had been laid off – to bin all tools and parts associated with mechanicals. That would have meant consigning Zenith’s greatest gift to watchmaking – the El Primero – to the history books. Originally introduced in 1969, El Primero was supposed to be the world’s first automatic chronograph calibre. It was conceived in 1962 and due for delivery in the brand’s centenary year, but Zenith’s ambitions

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led to numerous delays. It wanted its flagship calibre to beat at 10 times a second, or 36,000 vibrations per second, making it the most accurate chronograph in the world. That aspiration also made it the most complex chronograph in the world, and development was constantly held up, so that when it finally launched it was no longer ‘el primero’, pipped at the post by the Calibre 11 automatic chronograph, a joint venture by Heuer, Breitling and the now defunct Buhren. Calibre 11 did not have the El Primero’s racing heart, but despite its superiority, only six years later Zenith’s masterpiece appeared destined for the scrapheap, jettisoned by its American namesake. Into the picture, though, came a group of Zenith employees, led by a man named Charles Vermot. Between them, they hid tools, parts and ébauches (unfinished movements), mothballing them in the hope that one day they might be needed again.

In 1999, Zenith was bought by LVMH and in the years since it has thrived They were. By the late 1970s, Zenith was in trouble. The model adopted by its American owners hadn’t foreseen the advance of the Japanese electronic giants, and they put Zenith up for sale. It was bought in 1978 by a Swiss consortium and limped on for a few years, before luck played its hand. In the early 1980s, fellow Swiss watch brand Ebel approached Zenith with a request to revive the El Primero in its own collection. Vermot got wind of this, and revealed his covert operation of almost a decade previously. In 1984, as the green shoots of recovery were beginning to appear in the traditional watch

Glimpse of some of the 2,333 chronometry prizes and awards won by Zenith since 1865

El Primero Chronomaster Power Reserve Tribute to Charles Vermot, £7,000

Academy CC Hurricane Grand Voyage II, £56,400


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industry, El Primero was brought back into production. It’s been in production ever since, is still the world’s most accurate series-produced chronograph, and is now a collectors’ favourite. Last year, Zenith launched a limited edition Charles Vermot version of the El Primero Chronomaster in tribute to the man who saved its most prized possession. These days, El Primero accounts for the lion’s share of Zenith’s annual output, but it splits a little of the limelight with sister calibre Elite, an ultra-thin automatic launched in 1994. In the early 1990s, it was becoming clear that quartz watches that ticked and beeped were disposable and rather inelegant compared to the delicate micro-engineering and natural longevity of a mechanical watch, and Zenith’s addition to the canon of credible calibres was deliberately timed. Today, it enjoys a reputation as one of the calibres that helped revive the Swiss watch industry, an

accolade it shares with El Primero. In 1999, Zenith was bought by LVMH and in the years since it has thrived. Sister brands TAG Heuer, Bulgari and Dior all use Zenith movements, as did Rolex through the 1990s in its iconic Daytona chronograph. Quality signifiers all. For its 150th anniversary year, Zenith has launched a number of spectacular pieces. One of the headliners is the Zenith Academy: Georges Favre-Jacot, a watch limited to 150 pieces with a fusée and chain mechanism, designed to deliver the watch’s 50-hour power reserve evenly, or at ‘constant force’. Another is the Academy: Christophe Colomb Hurricane Grand Voyage II, which features a ‘selfregulating gravity control module’ and a mesmerising hand-engraved and hand-painted case back. Columbus may have long-since sailed his last voyage, but Zenith’s adventure continues. n

Zenith workshops, early 1900s

Original El Primero Calibre

Back of the Academy Hurricane Grand Voyage II, £240,600

Portrait of Georges Favre-Jacot (1843-1917) founder of Zenith

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jewellerynews Jewels of the Sea Fabergé recently re-hatched its one-of-a-kind egg object in the form of a new Pearl Egg in celebration of the jeweller’s forthcoming centenary. Created in collaboration with the Al-Fardan family, one of the industry’s most well-regarded pearl collectors, the egg’s design has been inspired by the precious gemstones’ formation in the oyster; it features a crafted mother-ofpearl exterior which carefully opens up through the use of a built-in mechanism to reveal its treasure – a unique 12.17-carat grey pearl sourced from the Arabian Gulf. A total of 139 white pearls (handselected by company chairman Hussain Ibrahim Al-Fardan from his private collection), adorn the outside, along with 3,305 diamonds and carved rock crystal. The piece is accompanied by a necklace of white pearls, diamonds and mother-of- pearl, finished with a 19.44-carat white pearl drop.

Pearl Egg, POA; faberge.com

Cutting Edge One of the most anticipated auctions taking place at Bonhams New York on 31 March and 1 April will see a selection of late Hollywood actress Lauren Bacall’s jewellery collection comprising more than 30 pieces, go on sale as part of an extensive 700-lot auction of her estate. Susan Abeles, Bonhams’ head of jewellery in the United States, comments:

“The pieces offered are timeless, understated and classic in design and represent the sophistication and glamour of a true Hollywood legend. As a result, we’re anticipating great interest in the March auction” Clockwise from top: Lot 725, sapphire and 22-karat gold earrings, Darlene de Sedle; Lot 711, 14-karat yellow gold long chain, Tiffany & Co; Lot 739, Amethyst, turquoise and diamond ring, Jean Schlumberger for Tiffany & Co.

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Penny for your Thoughts After being given an exclusive sneak-preview of Tessa Packard’s latest fine jewellery collection, Fat Free, back in January, we have been craving to see the finished results and only now has our curiosity been satisfied. The irresistible spring range sees a playful new side to the designer who was inspired by the quintessential English penny sweet to create her fourth line. With mouth-watering pieces including a gummy bear necklace, fried egg earrings, a waffle heart bracelet and an ice-cream ring, it’s almost good enough to eat. However, be warned: each piece, crafted in 18-carat white or yellow gold and incorporating precious diamonds and gemstones, will be sure to cost you a pretty penny.

Fat Free collection, available from 19 March tessapackard.com

Winging it Those of you who regularly frequent Loulou’s members’ club will already be familiar with the charms of Shepherd Market and its surrounding streets but may be unaware of another one of its gems: Guy & Max. The unassuming jewellery boutique, founded by two brothers, is a contemporary treasure trove of unique fine jewellery pieces made in-house using 3D printing technology alongside traditional techniques. One of the latest collections to catch our eye is Phoenix: inspired by the concept of movement within a bird’s wing, the innovative structural design (invented by Max), enables the metal wings to move freely as if in flight.

Phoenix pendant, £2,000; 8 Shepherd Street, W1J; guyandmax.com


An auction of Vintage & Modern Wrist Watches

Monday 20th April at 10am A selection of wrist watches previously sold at auction.

Fellows Auctioneers www.fellows.co.uk Saleroom & Head Office 19 Augusta Street | Birmingham | B18 6JA | 0121 212 2131 London Office | 2nd Floor |3 Queen Street | W1J 5PA | 020 7127 4198


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Pearl

jam

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There’s no disputing that pearls are in vogue. Look away from your grandmother’s jewellery box and towards these daring new designs

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1 Cages diamond earrings, £3,500, Melanie Georgacopoulos, melaniegeorgacopoulos.com 2 Coralline circle pendant, from £720, Ornella Iannuzzi, ornella-iannuzzi.com 3 18-karat white and rose gold pearl necklace, POA, Yoko London, yokolondon.com 4 Faux pearl and Swarovski crystal necklace, £615, Ben-Amun, net-a-porter.com 5 18-karat white gold cuff with South Sea pearls and diamonds, POA, Yoko London, as before 6 Tribal earrings, £380, Dior, dior.com 7 Monsieur Dior ring, £370, Dior, as before 8 18-carat yellow gold classic Baroque pearl drop earrings, £295, Annoushka, annoushka.com 9 Coralline Reef ring, from £300, Ornella Iannuzzi, as before 10 Duet pendant, £585, Melanie Georgacopoulos, as before 11 Sterling silver, diamond and pearl earrings, £3,400, Amrapali, 55 Beauchamp Place, SW3 12 Silver sapphire and pearl Mitra ring, £325, LeiVanKash, leivankash.com 13 Silver vermeil and pearl Rose ring, £240, LeiVanKash, as before 14 18-karat black gold, South Sea pearls and diamond earrings, POA, Yoko London, as before 15 18-carat white gold, black and white diamond tassel earrings with cultured pearls, £16,800, Shaun Leane, Selfridges Wonder Room, 020 7318 3603 16 Perle au Trésor shoulder brooch, POA, Boucheron, boucheron.com 17 Mise en Dior necklace, £2,350, Dior, as before

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C E L E B R AT I N G 3 0 Y E A R S

Aurora Inspire romance with this 0.86ct Fancy Intense Australian Argyle Pink Diamond Ring, reflecting the warm, vibrant and fiery hues of its extraordinary and ancient origins. A highly prized, rare and collectable jewel.

To receive the beautiful Calleija brochure, please contact us The Royal Arcade Old Bond Street London london@calleija.com +44 (0)20 7499 8490

The Westin Martin Place Sydney sydney@calleija.com.au +61 (0)2 9233 6661 calleija.com

Marina Mirage Main Beach Gold Coast mirage@calleija.com.au +61 (0)7 5528 3666


Original, limited-edition Art Deco posters by leading artists

Limited to editions of 280, our Art Deco-inspired posters have been printed on 100% cotton fine art paper using traditional techniques. They are signed, hand-numbered and bear our embossed stamp of authenticity. Each poster is approximately 97 x 65 cms (38 x 26 inches). Price: ÂŁ395 each inc. VAT, unframed

Pullman Editions Ltd 94 Pimlico Road Chelsea London SW1W 8PL www.pullmaneditions.com Tel: +44 (0)20 7730 0547 Email: georgina@pullmaneditions.com

Our central London gallery

All images and text copyright Š Pullman Editions Ltd. 2014

View and buy online at w w w.pullmaneditions.com Pullman Ed Canary Wharf.indd 1

20/06/2014 14:19


scene

wish list

The Ad Man The era-defining illustrations of one of New York’s original Mad Men, McCauley ‘Mac’ Conner, will be on show at the House of Illustration from this month. Conner was at the creative helm of countless campaigns that defined American’s golden age of advertising and Mac Conner: A New York Life brings together more than 70 of his original works that graced billboards and clocked up column inches from the 1940s to 1960s. Produced in the publishing epicentre of Manhattan, the hand-painted illustrations will be displayed alongside preliminary designs, advertising tear sheets from major clients such as Ford and United Airlines as well as letters between editors and art directors. Don Draper eat your heart out.

1 April – 28 June 2 Granary Square, N1C Illustration for Strictly Respectable in Redbook, August 1953 © Mac Conner. Courtesy of the artist

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local

Untitled, 2014, oil on canvas

update

Building blocks English painter Edward Coyle unveils his latest creations on canvas following a year-long residency at BERLONI. Drawing inspiration from 3D modelling software, Coyle’s renderings of edifices and structures in various stages of completion offer a disorientating sense of perspective. The shape-shifting compositions reveal a succession of viewpoints that look simultaneously temporary yet constant.

Until 9 May, 63 Margaret Street, W1W Monotype 27, 2014 by Bruce McLean, courtesy of CCA Galleries Š Bruce McLean

hay there

Prints charming

British artist Hayden Kays has had his work snapped up by everyone from Chris Martin to One Direction heartthrob Harry Styles. Now his unique blend of pop meets street art is showcased at The Cob Gallery in an exhibition entitled The Top Ten. Expect a range of quirky prints bearing pithy statements.

2-11 April, 205 Royal College Street, NW1

London Original Print Fair returns to the main galleries at the Royal Academy of Arts for its 30th installment with a plethora of prints of all shapes, sizes and styles. Creations by 20th-century greats Picasso, Bacon and Freud will be shown alongside handiwork by Grayson Perry and Tracey Emin in the line-up of works offered by 50 specialist exhibitors. As well as a range of prints to suit all pockets, the fair also offers first-timers the chance to learn about the practice of printmaking and how to build their very own collection. Above, left to right: Look Into My Love and Those Who Suffer Love

23-26 April, Burlington House, W1J


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Happy families From the playwright whose debut Jumpy went from the Royal Court to the West End and then earned international acclaim, April De Angelis’s latest drama, After Electra arrives at the Tricycle Theatre. The black comedy centres on family life and comes to a climax at an 81st birthday party when secrets and shared history threaten to thwart the celebratory mood. To find out more about the inspiration for the play, a post-show Q&A is scheduled for Tuesday 14 April so you can put your questions to the team behind the much-anticipated production.

7 April – 2 May, 7.30pm (midweek matinees 2pm), 269 Kilburn High Road, NW6

Rowing Coach on Holiday by Rennie Pilgrem, original giclee edition

Undiscovered talent

Painting pioneer

The rising art stars of tomorrow are given their chance to shine in the spotlight at The Other Art Fair, which celebrates its fourth year with a move to a new Bloomsbury location. With 22,000 sq ft to fill, the artist-driven fair hopes to build on last year’s successful event, when 130 unrepresented creatives from around the world had their work showcased. The selection panel – made up of judges such as renowned artist Gavin Turk and Dr Stephanie Buck, curator of drawing at The Courtauld Gallery – has had a record 700 applicants for the 160 places, encompassing sculpture, photography and prints.

Entry by Tommy Clarke, c-type print, edition of 100

23-26 April, Victoria House Southampton Row, WC1B

hop to it

Above: Miss Nelly O’Brien, by Sir Joshua Reynolds c.1762-1764 © The Wallace Collection Right: Sir Joshua Reynolds, by Sir Joshua Reynolds, c. 1747-1749 © National Portrait Gallery

During his heyday as a celebrated portrait artist, Joshua Reynolds captured a who’s who of 18th-century society figures and celebrities. His towering reputation credits him with helping to establish a distinctive British school of painting. This spring, however, The Wallace Collection has decided to explore an often overlooked aspect of Reynolds’ work. The result of a four-year research project, Joshua Reynolds: Experiments in Paint will document the artist’s thirst for innovation and his experimental approach, from his pioneering use of pigments to his composition experiments.

Until 7 June, Manchester Square, W1U y National Trust / Chris Lace

The Easter bunny has been busy scattering clues around the walled garden at Fenton House in time for the bank holiday weekend. The 17thcentury National Trust property has teamed up with Cadbury to create an Eggsplorers Easter Egg Trail. From the fragrant rose bush patch to the orchard of the former merchant’s house, no nook has been left unturned and families will need to put on their thinking caps and keep their eyes peeled for signs that will lead them to a chocolatey prize.

3-6 April, 11am-4.30pm, Fenton House, NW3, normal admission charges apply, each trail costs £3

National Trust / Chris Lacey

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A

for king

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Ask people what they know about King John and they will probably mention Magna Carta. Mark the 800th year of the great charter’s signing through a new exhibition at the British Library, writes Jack Watkins

few years ago a kindly publisher reluctantly agreed to my suggestion that I write a biography of King John. I’ve always been fascinated by misfits and outsiders, the underappreciated and the unloved, and you can’t get more unloved than this 13th century monarch. I still possess one of my most thumbed childhood history books, in which his picture is captioned with the solemnly unequivocal statement: The Worst English King. But for me he also scores highly on the pathos front. “King John was not a good man – he had his little ways / And sometimes no one spoke to him for days and days and days,” went AA Milne’s verse King John’s Christmas. This was the lonely monarch who stayed in every afternoon – “but no one came to tea” – and who was so friendless that the only Christmas cards lining his mantle were the ones he’d had to write to himself. Apparently, top of his present wish list seems to have been a big red rubber ball. How could I not warm to such a man? In the middle of the 20th century, medieval historians had come up with the idea that John’s reign might not have been such a bad thing after all. Meanwhile, John himself seemed to have potential as a “bit of a character”. He’d been the favourite son of Henry II, unarguably one of our greatest kings, loved countryside pursuits, fine clothes and jewellery, and possessed an acerbic wit. Unusually for the time, he had little truck with conventional displays of religious piety, though this didn’t stop him becoming friends with Bishop Hugh of Lincoln – the man who kick-started the inspiring redesign of one of our finest Gothic cathedrals, Lincoln cathedral – to the extent that he acted as a pallbearer at his funeral. However, my biographical research stalled, modern research has rebounded back against him, and he is once more regarded as a failure. John was so incompetent and essentially unlikeable that I knew I could never swing potential readers behind him. While still a prince, his father had sent him to Ireland to govern, but at his first meeting with the Irish barons he’d laughed at their fusty appearances, leaning


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forward on his throne to tweak their long, flowing beards, which had for some time been out of fashion back in England. This was clearly, for a representative of the English crown, Not The Thing To Do. But even if you read it as typically cheekyJohn behavior, the original rebel without a cause, other details of his life suggest he was indeed an incorrigibly bad man. Beginning his reign in 1199 as arguably the most powerful ruler in Europe, with the income from his estates in France greater than those of the French monarch, by 1214, he had completely squandered his position through a mixture of political and military incompetence. A serial adulterer, he managed to get himself excommunicated by the pope, and there were even rumours that he’d strangled his nephew Arthur of Brittany with his own hands, to strengthen his hold on the crown. Ask people what they know about John and, at best, they will probably mention Magna Carta, though they’ll follow that up with a question on what the phrase means. They will most likely stumble in much the same way prime minister David Cameron did when quizzed about it by David Letterman on American TV in 2012. In fact, it means “great charter” and the 800th year of its signing “in 1215, on an island in the Thames,” as Mr Cameron correctly asserted, is being celebrated this year with an exhibition at the British Library. The institution is the custodian of two original Magna Carta manuscripts, and will be exploring its medieval origins and what it has come to mean over subsequent centuries. An extract from the Melrose Chronicle, reckoned to be the earliest independent account of what happened at

Runnymede, refers to a “new state of things begun in England; such a strange affair as had never before been heard; for the body wishes to rule the head, and the people desired to be masters over the king.” The document took on greater symbolic importance over subsequent centuries. Seventeenth century lawyers invoked its significance as a bastion of liberty in the struggle against Charles I in the English Civil War. The USA traces the lineage of their written constitution back to Magna Carta. Thomas Jefferson’s handwritten text of the American Declaration of Independence from the Crown will be on display in the exhibition, as will a memo written by a Whitehall civil servant in 1947, detailing a decision by officials not to endorse a plan for a special Magna Carta Day in the Commonwealth countries, for fear it might have inspired “uncritical enthusiasm” for the document among “ill-disposed colonial politicians” in their struggle to gain more freedom for their peoples. Slippery old John would have understood the thinking behind that. He really only signed the charter as a way to get the barons off his back and buy himself more time. You can still visit the hallowed watermeadows by the Thames where the deed was done today, Runnymede being a site in the care of the National Trust. Its setting of hollowed-out hawthorns and venerable oaks, and Langham Pond, with its waving fronds of purple loosestrife

and water lilies, make for a mellow ramble in the warmer months. It’s a popular site with Americans, lured by the slightly dodgy notion that the cause of civil liberty started here all those years ago. For John, though, it didn’t stem the decline of his reign. Pretty soon he’d face anarchy in the realm, and spend his last months on the move, desperately trying to stamp out rebellions which were springing up everywhere. In the summer of 1216, with the south east now in the hands of Prince Louis of France, John was crossing the Wash to deal with him when a rising tide swept away his baggage train and, with it, the contents of his treasury. Demoralised and sick with dysentery, he retreated to Newark Castle and there, with a storm howling round the battlements, he died one gloomy night in October. John was called many things in his life, but lucky wasn’t one of them. n

Magna Carta, Law, Liberty, Legacy is at the British Library until 1 September Opposite page: First known portrait of King John by an unknown artist, 1620 © National Portrait Gallery; Baron Geoffrey de Mandeville, Earl of Essex and Gloucester, by James Sherwood Westmacott, 1847 © Palace of Westminster Collection, photography by Joseph Turp This page, clockwise from top left: Miniature of the poisoning of King John, from a verse chronicle (England, 13th century) British Library; Booklet for the Runnymede Pageant, 1934 © Egham Museum; Seal matrix of Robert fitz Walter c. 1235 © British Museum

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3kg Scented Candle From The Emperor Collection

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scene

Man of the West (1958)

stage right

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Jack Watkins speaks to legendary critic David Thomson and asks how, and why, our perceptions of good and bad acting have evolved over time

f you’ve ever watched films with anything more than a passing interest you will surely have come across the work of critic and historian David Thomson. Incapable of writing a dull line, his A Biographical Dictionary of Film is required reading, even if his views on “greats” such as Alfred Hitchcock, John Ford and Humphrey Bogart, can sometimes prove maddeningly deflating. His latest book falls within the Yale University Press’s Why X Matters series, in which distinguished authorities within their respective fields argue for the relevance of an important idea. The discursive approach suits Thomson’s style, and you have to say the question of “Why Acting Matters” is, as Hitchcock would have put it, something of a MacGuffin; a device that gives him an excuse for his musings, but whose answer is not the main point of interest. What the book really offers is a fascinating look at how ideas about acting have evolved down

David Thomson, photography by Michael Lionstar

the years, and the way in which each age has convinced itself that its own generation of actors surpass in their naturalness and skill anything which preceded it. There seems to be a built-in perishability to the reputations of actors as their eras pass out of view. Richard Burbage may have been the first man to play Henry V on stage, probably delivering its initial public performance at London’s Globe Theatre, when Shakespeare himself may have played the part of the Chorus. Burbage seems to have played most of the other great Shakespearean parts too. “Plainly,” writes Thomson, “Burbage was a star.” But who remembers him now? The same might be said of David Garrick, or Edmund Kean. There’s a historical reverence for their names, but their performances might as well never have existed for all we can tell of them. Of course, this is not really surprising. All these figures performed before

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Wild River (1960)

Wild River (1960)

Man of the West (1958)

photography or moving pictures were invented. There’s no record for us to judge how good they were. But what about those who will live forever on tape or digital image? While the constraints of silent film forced performers to overplay or “signal” emotion in a way which usually creates a barrier when we watch their work now, the talking picture effectively introduced the art of modern acting. Yet still people snigger when they watch old films, and it’s a kneejerk reaction from those brought up on, say, Kenneth Branagh’s Henry V to mock Sir Laurence Olivier’s performance in his earlier film of 1944 as hammy. I recently had the chance to put a few questions to David on his new book, and asked him why we judge acting in old films so harshly, yet happily pass over “dated” aspects of venerable paintings, novels and music. “I think movies, made to be a sensation for a moment or a weekend, can date very fast,” he replied. “Whereas old plays do not suffer in the same way. I think we feel the hamminess in old movies because we’ve always used the screen as a kind of secret education in how to behave. And that newness shifts all the time. Educated young people these days talk to one another in very different ways from kids in, say, 1960. It’s not that one way is “better” than the others. But we are crazy to be up-to-date and cool.” Olivier was regarded as bringing a new naturalism to Shakespeare, favourably compared to his great contemporary Sir John Gielgud, who tended to sing the lines (thus offering a fascinating insight into the


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Man of the West (1958)

Boomerang! (1947)

way the Bard’s plays were delivered by the Victorians). But Olivier viewed cinema as inferior to theatre, as did most leading British actors of his period, with the honorable exception of Charles Laughton, and so it was the naturalism of American actors who marked the next transitional step towards a more modern style. Cue Marlon Brando and the Method, you might think. But while David devotes many pages to an insightful comparison of the approaches of Olivier and Brando, and the contribution of that great American director Elia Kazan (Boomerang, A Streetcar named Desire, On the Waterfront, East of Eden, Wild River), his early master in the art of naturalism is actually Gary Cooper. He writes of Cooper’s “poetic resonance,” and of his “tiny, almost instinctive gestures and smothered glances” in Frank Capra’s Meet John Doe (1941), in which his timing is, indeed, mesmeric. Would David place Cooper among the greatest of actors? “He is a great screen actor, or reactive presence. He tends to be very quiet in a way that only sound pictures permitted. They [as opposed to the silent movies] made us realise actors could do much less, and so a potential inwardness became available. Cooper began in silent pictures and he was certainly one of the first and best to take advantage of sound. There were others, like James Cagney and Spencer Tracy. I find Cooper the most appealing because in his very presence he embodied beauty and shyness, thoughtfulness and silence, assurance but with anxiety creeping in. I find that his films have not dated.” I put it to him that, especially in the UK, the tendency

has been to dismiss such actors for simply developing a recognizable screen persona and sticking to it, whereas British actors have constantly sought variation. “Well, you’re touching on a basic Anglo-American conflict,” he responds. “In America that movie culture of inwardness led to a cult on consistent star personality. That approach relied on people staying the same, and I think it’s true many of them would have been lost onstage, John Wayne, for example. They needed that close-up gaze.” It’s hard to imagine a world without film now, of course. “For some of us, on some days,” as David writes, “we spend more time with acted figures than with real people.” The act of gazing at faces on a screen is all-pervasive. David reckons he watches “all, or parts of” between 12 and 15 movies a week, including “most of the worthwhile new films”, preferably in theatres. Given a free month, though, he’d return to two old masters, Luis Buñuel and Ernst Lubitsch, “because I know they are great, but I feel that I have been taking them for granted.” Among the old Hollywood stars, he fears the work of Joel McCrea, William Holden (his passage on him in Why Acting Matters is typically insightful) and Carole Lombard is fading into obscurity. “In ten more years, I think they could be largely forgotten. But I must tell you, a few years ago I met a film student at a party. He seemed bright, very interested in, and interesting on, many valuable modern directors. But he had not heard of Gary Cooper.” n

Why Acting Matters by David Thomson, £16.99 published by Yale University Press, yalebooks.co.uk

 NEED TO KNOW  Man of the West is, in David Thomson’s opinion, Gary Cooper’s “final masterpiece.” Directed by Anthony Mann, the master director of the “psychological Western,” this cult film is released on Blu-ray and DVD this month in the meticulously produced Masters of Cinema series. Director Elia Kazan was responsible for some of the most powerful moments in big screen history. Two of his classics, Boomerang (1947), starring Dana Andrews and Lee J Cobb, and Wild River (1960), starring Montgomery Clift and Lee Remick, have also just been released in the same series. eurekavideo.co.uk

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www.my-perfect-t.com


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wish list

BLOSSOM HILL No matter how long the winter, spring is sure to follow, so the old proverb goes. And there to tickle our senses with the most nostalgic scents of the season is Jo Malone, with its new limited edition collection of three blossom-based colognes. Choose Sakura Cherry Blossom with its red lid and matching velvet bow for a delicate hint of blossom blended with rose and bergamot; Exotic Osmanthus Blossom for peachier notes (marked with a green top); and Plum Blossom with its corresponding splash of purple packaging.

ÂŁ86 for 100ml, jomalone.co.uk

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STYLE Update SOFT AS CASHMERE Scottish cashmere brand Barrie Knitwear has renewed its collaboration with actress Lily Collins. Photographed by none other than Karl Lagerfeld himself, Collins poses in Barrie’s second ready-to-wear collection for its SS15 campaign. The edit offers premium cashmere crafted into chic summer dresses, kimonos and tops in vibrant prints, pastel colours and Navajo-inspired designs.

From £380, 47 Burlington Arcade, W1J barrie.com

in the bag One problem with socialising on a week night straight from work is having to cram your life’s possessions (gym kit, notebook... rollers) into your bag to ensure you're prepped for all outcomes. Luckily for us, the clever people at Olive Cooper have come up with an ingenious solution. Handmade by craftsmen in the UK, Olive Cooper’s designs detach to make two separate handbags, ideal for a day to night transformation. Available in leather and suede, the bags come in a range of designs and colours including berry and silver. Founded by young entrepreneur Olivia Martyn just last year in September 2014, we think this newbie has bags of potential.

From £290, olivecooper.com

SURF’S UP Print maestro Emilio Pucci has teamed up with Orlebar Brown to create a 20-piece capsule collection of swim shorts and rash guards decorated with Pucci’s signature prints. Featuring geometric designs taken from the fashion brand’s archives, the collaboration includes Orlebar Brown’s classic Bulldog and Setter swim shorts for men, as well as Whippet shorts for women. The shorts are made from Italian cotton poplin that has been treated with Teflon to produce a water repellent seal. Dive in.

From £195, orlebarbrown.com


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CHARMED, I'm sure Chip forks, whistles and pencils are usually items you’re more likely to find at the bottom of a park bin than on a Liberty London scarf, but this season sees the launch of Liberty’s new collaboration with Sophie Hulme – a range of silk neckwear adorned with the most unlikely of objects. “A chip fork can hold so much meaning, so many memories,” says Hulme. “This is where we found our inspiration.” Taking reference from vintage 1970s scarves, choose from six designs on backgrounds of fuchsia, navy and burgundy.

join the mcq For its SS15 campaign McQ has collaborated with artist Ophelia Finke after commissioning her to take part in one of its 'Instagram Takeovers’. Shot by Laurence Ellis and featuring model Sunniva Stordahl, the Carrara installation references people working as archaeologists, doctors, surgeons and explorers. Ophelia comments: “The McQ team approach their work in a similar way to me, focusing on interesting printing methods and fabrics, bringing materials and concepts together in unexpected ways.”

alexandermcqueen.com

IF THE SHOE FITS

From £190, liberty.co.uk

to the point Luxury shoemakers Bionda Castana is launching a bespoke, custom-made design service that was, until recently, by invitation only. Now available to all, the process allows you to select a pattern, fabric and colour from Bionda Castana’s archives to decorate your own pair of shoes. There are a range of styles to choose from including the brand’s signature geometric evening court, Lana, and the Norma monk shoe. The stunning footwear is all handmade a few miles from Lake Como in Italy, and delivered within four weeks, along with the original sketches and a hand written note from the designers.

From £395, biondacastana.com

Laura Bailey is a contributing editor at Vogue, a model, a journalist, a member of the British Fashion Council and now a shoe designer – is there anything she can’t do? Apparently not. The 33-year-old style icon has teamed up with LK Bennett to create a retro-modern collection of shoes and a clutch bag, launching later this month. Inspired by holidays to the Amalfi Coast and screen stars from the fifties and sixties, Bailey’s collection is a mix of vibrant colours and geometric prints. The pieces will strike a chord with vintage and contemporary lovers alike, featuring kitten heels, stilettos and cross-over flats.

From £195, lkbennett.com

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W

hen Angela Ahrendts joined Burberry as the CEO back in 2006, she was faced with the challenge of resurrecting a dwindling fashion house, whose iconic beige, red and black checked design had lost its luxury credentials. The print had been churned out on cheap knock-offs the world over, losing its prestige and becoming synonymous with obvious and garish fashion victims. The first thing Ahrendts did was limit the number of products carrying the design to 10 per cent, minimising the possibility of counterfeits. During her time as CEO, Burberry’s value rose from £2 billion to more than £7 billion; her influence over the brand was monumental, turning Burberry back into an iconic luxury fashion house that the likes of Emma Watson, Cara Delevingne and Kate Moss are clamouring to front. In 2014, Ahrendts left Burberry to join Apple as the senior vice president for retail and online stores. Rumour had it she was joining them at a revolutionary

time for technology, as the brand was making steps towards its first ever attempt at wearable technology. Former Yves Saint Laurent CEO Paul Deneve and Nike’s former director of design Ben Shaffer soon joined her, bringing the number of unlikely Apple candidates to a solid three. Apple’s sudden interest in successful business leaders with a fashion background fuelled the fire around iWatch gossip, and sure enough on 9 September 2014, they confirmed that the rumours were true, unveiling its first ‘wearable’. The Apple Watch is scheduled to launch this month, a product that has triggered a wave of anticipation that, so far, no other wearable gadget has matched. It’s believed that the company has pre-ordered more than five million units of the smartwatch in time for its release; a bold move when compared to the initial Android Wear sales of less than a million. While the concept of wearable technology has been around for some time (who could forget the 1980s calculator watch?), the trend has only started

As the Apple Watch launches this month, Ellen Millard looks at fashion’s role in the rise of wearable technology

geek chic


style

to gain reverence in recent years thanks to the increased availability of cheaper microchips and other small parts. It’s predicted that 2015 will be the year wearables truly take off, with a deluge of brands ready to jump on the bandwagon. Existing products have generated mixed reviews; although some have been blessed with the sartorial seal of approval, others have been criticised for lacking a certain je ne sais quoi (we’re looking at you, Google Glass). While it’s no secret that aesthetic has long been integral to the success of consumer tech products (let’s not forget, a Blackberry could do everything an iPhone could, but it was the sleek Apple design that saw a surge in the demand for smartphones) there aren’t many people who would happily strap an iPhone 6 to their arm, an issue that was likely on the minds of the tech giant when it hired its new team of fashion connoisseurs. The first sign that a merger between fashion and technology was on the horizon was the creation of Beats by Dre. Incorporating a love of design and music, Beats Electronics created a product that quickly found itself looped around the necks of teenagers, becoming as much of a fashion statement as it was a provider of crisp audio. Indeed, Marc Jacobs deemed the headphones so stylish that he incorporated them into his SS15 show last September, encouraging guests to wear them throughout. When crafting Burberry’s comeback, Ahrendts recognised that individuality was key, and it’s a strategy that she’s taken over to Apple. Others have been quick to catch on: “When women wear accessories, wearable tech included, we want them to enhance our look and our style,” says Ashlyn Bird, co-founder of Ear-O-Smart, a smart earring that monitors heart rate, calories and

Left: Apple Watch and Apple Watch Sport, apple.com Right: Rainbow Winters Thunderstorm sound-reactive dress, rainbowwinters.com

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activity, due to launch later this year. “The bottom line is that everyone wants to look and feel their best in what they wear and wearable technology is a rapidly growing market that seems to be a natural progression to fuse fashion and technology.” While wearables still have a way to go in the style stakes, 2014 saw the beginning of the trend of fashion-tech collaborations. In June, Google Glass brushed off its reputation as chunky face furniture in favour of a makeover courtesy of Diane Von Furstenburg. The designer launched her Made For Glass collection, which included sunglasses more likely found on a beach in St Tropez than in Silicon Valley. FitBit collaborated with Tory Burch to create a range of chic jewellery that doubled up as activity monitors, while Opening Ceremony joined Intel to produce MICA, a smart cuff with a discreet touch-screen display surrounded by precious gems and Ayers snakeskin. Ralph Lauren embraced the trend by way of smart apparel: the Polo Tech shirt debuted at the US Open Tennis Champions last August, boasting biosensing fibres that transmit data (such as the wearer’s

“Google Glass, Galaxy Gear and Puls were met with a Mean Girls-style rejection” heart rate, breathing levels and activity) to an app on a smartphone or tablet. Meanwhile, Alexander Wang incorporated heat sensitive fabrics into his AW14 show to create a collection that changed colour when exposed to varying temperatures. Luxury stores and publications got on board with the trend, too – Opening Ceremony’s MICA bracelets were available at Barneys New York, while DVF’s Made For Glass collection was sold exclusively by luxury e-tailer Net-A-Porter, which will also welcome smart ring designer Kovert later this year. During Paris fashion week, visitors to high-end boutique Colette gawped at the Apple Watch on display for the first time. One month later, it made its Vogue cover debut in China, and more recently it graced 12 pages of American Vogue. This year, the trend continues, with the number of designers creating wearables steadily increasing. Rebecca Minkoff and Case-Mate’s phone-charging bracelets were released in February; Swatch is planning a new smartwatch to rival Apple, Samsung and Google; and Michael Kors has announced that it will also be designing a wearable, although the brand is remaining schtum on what form it will take. But it’s not just the household names that are getting involved. Behind the bigger brands is an army of start-ups ready to leap on board.


style

Ringly, which will debut its range of smart cocktail rings this spring, has raised a whopping $5.1 billion in investment funding. The chic goldplated jewellery, which features precious and semiprecious stones, notifies wearers when they receive a message via their smartphone or tablet. The aim was to create a product that allows people to stay connected with those they’re apart from, without affecting the time spent with the people they’re with. And, of course, design was high on the list of priorities. “Ultimately, Ringly is about fashion. It is our belief that wearables should be designed to fit both your life and your style,” says Christina Mercando, founder and CEO of Ringly. “I’m not against the term ‘wearables’; it’s an important growing category and perhaps that is where we fit in the world of tech. But we’re also a piece of jewellery that stands on its own.” “Aesthetics are really important for consumer uptake,” adds Amy Winters, founder of smartclothing company Rainbow Winters, whose designs

Left from top: Ringly, from $195, ringly.com; Colour-changing Petal dress and Mondrain coat, Rainbow Winters, rainbowwinters.com This page, clockwise from top left: Tory Burch for FitBit fitness tracker, from £155, fitbit.com; MICA by Opening Ceremony and Intel; Smart jewellery from Ringly, ringly.com; Apple Watch Edition, 18-carat gold with black sport band, apple.com

include three interactive dresses: motion-sensitive, sound-reactive and water-reactive. “The wearable tech market is quite a crowded space at the moment, and to me a lot of the products seem to look the same. Aesthetic design combined with compelling user experience will be key for a product’s success.” One problem at the moment, she says, is that wearable technology is still in its early stages of conception. Once designers have mastered the required balance of form and function, wearables will easily become a part of our daily lives. “Eventually, as the technology, functionality, user experience and aesthetics become more sophisticated, we will begin to see everyday life application,” Ashlyn Bird adds. “As wearable technology becomes more fashionable, more functional, more convenient and more accessible, it will inevitably be worn by more people, more frequently and for longer durations.” As Vantage goes to print, the world waits with bated breath for the Apple Watch. Will it be a game changer for technology, or a fashion faux pas? Early reviews suggest the former, but in the unpredictable world of fashion there’s everything to play for. Previous launches of Google Glass, Samsung’s Galaxy Gear and Puls were met with a Mean Girls-style rejection, while MICA, Tory Burch for FitBit and Rebecca Minkoff for Case-Mate were welcomed with open arms. And what did the success stories have in common? A team of fashion-smart designers. If there’s one thing we can be sure of, it’s that the sartorial maestros behind wearable tech hold the key to its reception. With more and more companies taking note of the importance of style, what does the future hold for wearable technology? “The future of wearables is simple – more stylish, more inconspicuous, more accurate, more convenient and more accessible,” says Bird. “Technology will no longer be an add-on to our everyday lives, but become a seamless integrated part of it, that helps us stay connected, be more effective, more efficient and more aware of ourselves. I can’t wait for the day to see wearable technology make it down the catwalk.” n

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Silk headscarf, £310, Hermès, 155 New Bond Street, W1S; Jumper, £550, Bally, 45-46 New Bond Street, W1S; Trousers, £430, Stella McCartney, 30 Bruton Street, W1J; Ring, £180, CARAT*, caratlondon.com


Le Freak

C’est

chic Nod to the 1970s this season with fringed edges, flowing silhouettes and vivacious colour palettes

Photography / phillip waterman stylist / jess stebbings


Dress, £1,100, Mulberry, 50 New Bond Street, W1S; Bracelet, £4,100, ring, £4,000, and earrings, £3,325, all Chanel Fine Jewellery, 26 Old Bond Street, W1S


Dress, £595, Mother of Pearl, The Shop at Bluebird, 350 King's Road, SW3; Fedora, £165, Rag & Bone, net-a-porter.com; Diamond bracelet, £41,987, Shamballa Jewels, Harrods Fine Jewellery Room, 87-135 Brompton Road, SW1X


Jumpsuit, £165, Tommy Hilfiger, 63-65 Brompton Road, SW3; Bag, £1,695, Jimmy Choo, 27 New Bond Street, W1S; Ring, £217, CARAT*, as before; Earrings, £190, Eddie Borgo, harveynichols.com; Shoes, £1,595, Jimmy Choo, as before


Dress, £195, Aquascutum, 24 Great Marlborough Street, W1F; Bag, £1,950, Loewe, 125 Mount Street, W1K; Earrings, £165, Amishi, 45 Maddox Street, W1S; Rings, £194 each, both CARAT*, as before


Dress, £445, and boots, £435, both Max Mara, 21 Old Bond Street, W1S; Ring, £4,000, Chanel Fine Jewellery, as before


Jacket, £2,450, skirt, £850, belt, £455 and shoes, £415, all Ralph Lauren Collection, 1 New Bond Street, W1S Clutch bag, £425, Wilbur & Gussie, wilburandgussie.com HAIR & make-up: Lou Box @ S MANAGEMENT using Chanel SS15, Chanel Body Excellence and Redken Hair MODEL: Melissa Bell @ Select Models Shot on location at: Hotel Hospes Palacio de los Patos, Granada, hospes.com British Airways currently flies from London City to Granada twice a week, with three flights a week in the summer, and is the only airline operating to the Spanish city from the UK, ba.com/londoncity


happy days Photography / ian walsh

styling / Vanissa Antonious


style

Mélodie Chromatique silk scarf, £310, Hermès, hermes.com; 18ct yellow gold black rhodium diamond bangle, £7,600, Venyx, doverstreetmarket.com; Leather bag, £750, Jimmy Choo, jimmychoo.com; Patchwork clutch bag, POA, Prada, prada.com; Fringe bag, £950, Miu Miu, mytheresa.com; 18ct yellow gold wing earring set with brown diamonds and fossilised mammoth ivory, £4,400, Noor Fares, doverstreetmarket.com; Open toe platform mule, £840, Salvatore Ferragamo, ferragamo.com


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BEauty April 1. Jewellery designer Bao Bao Wan has collaborated with MAC to create a nine-piece make-up collection in metallic golds and jewel tones, which echo her own designs. The range includes jewel-blue nail polish (Kashmir Blue) and bright orange lipstick (Forbidden Sunrise), but our favourite is the Veluxe Pearl Fusion Shadow palette, consisting of five sparkling shades.

£33, MAC, maccosmetics.com 2. Laura Mercier has expanded her Silk Crème range to include a moisturising foundation that soothes skin while giving it a luminous finish. Offering 12 hours of coverage, the foundation evens skin tone and helps hide imperfections. Former make-up artist Laura Mercier designed her latest foundation with a photo-ready finish in mind: The Photo Edition collection is ideal for video, photography and special events. The collection comes in 12 shades, and is available from 9 April.

£35, Laura Mercier, lauramercier.com

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3. Burberry Kisses, the latest lipstick collection from the fashion house, boasts a customisable colour formula allowing users to lightly apply their chosen shade to create a sheer look, or build it up to make a bolder statement. Choose from 28 hues inspired by Burberry’s ready-to-wear edit, including Military Red. Presented in a sleek silver case etched with Burberry’s iconic check print, it’s the product on everyone’s lips.

£25, Burberry, burberry.com 4. On a high from the success of its Dual-Intensity range, NARS has released another addition to the collection: NARS Duel-Intensity Blush. Available in six palettes, the formula can be applied dry for a bold statement, or wet to achieve a watercolour effect. Each palette comes with two complimenting colours, which can be used together or alone. Try Frenzy (orange and pink-gold) or Jubilation (gold and nude-peach).

£30, NARS, exclusive to Liberty, liberty.co.uk 5. Clinique’s Chubby Sticks for lips, eyes and cheeks went down a storm when they were first introduced, and we’re predicting the same will happen with these new duo contour and highlighting pens. Simply draw a line with the highlighter crayon above your cheekbone, and below with the contouring pen, then blend.

£19, Clinique, clinique.com


THE WORLD’S FIRST IN-STORE DNA TEST FOR PERSONALISED SKINCARE GENEU use their award winning in-store DNA test to analyse your skin’s DNA and discover precisely what it needs. Experience GENEU and leave the flagship store with bespoke anti-ageing skincare, uniquely recommended to ensure your skin receives the suitable active ingredients and concentrations in order to promote healthy looking skin. Learn more on our YouTube channel: ‘GENEU Beauty’ 65 NEW BOND STREET, LONDON

020 7499 7161

GENEU.COM


beauty Update kiss and tell Chanel has given its iconic Rouge Coco lipstick collection a spring makeover. Launching this month, the fashion house is offering 29 new shades with an updated hydrating formula. The lipsticks come in a range of colours including reds, nudes and plums, all named after close friends of Coco Chanel herself. Keira Knightley fronts the campaign, looking suitably pouty in a Chanel ensemble.

£26, chanel.com

GIRL POWER SHINE BRIGHT A brand often at the forefront of innovative skincare, Estée Lauder has raised the bar once more. Its latest line, Crescent White, has a formula that reduces the appearance of dark spots and pigmentation which can be caused by prolonged exposure to the elements and the skin’s own day/night cycle. First targeted exclusively to the Asian market, the skin brightening products are now available in the UK. The cleanser, toner and moisturiser will help to reduce discolouration, leaving skin radiating with a youthful glow.

From £30 esteelauder.co.uk

Launched two years ago to promote confidence in women, Bobbi Brown’s Pretty Powerful campaign has evolved into a philanthropic project that works to empower women and girls of all ages by supporting educational and career training programmes. Since its inception there have been two iterations of the campaign, and this month sees the launch of its third wave, for which Bobbi Brown is re-introducing its Pretty Powerful pot rouge for cheeks and lips, along with a limited edition shade of pink, Pretty Powerful II. Money from the sales of the shade will be donated to Smart Works, a UK charity that provides out-of-work women on low incomes with professional clothes, styling advice and interview training.

£19, bobbibrown.co.uk


style

taking the cake Nothing beats a traditional afternoon tea, except perhaps one that’s served in London’s oldest horticultural institution. Have your cake and eat it this month at Clifton Nurseries, which has partnered with Penhaligon’s to celebrate the launch of Ostara, the latest fragrance from the perfume house. Created by Bertrand Duchaufour, Ostara is inspired by the smell of daffodils, a flower synonymous with spring. To mark the occasion, the Quince Tree Café located within Clifton Nurseries is serving afternoon tea with an Ostara twist – expect finger sandwiches with saffron and beetroot, lemon éclairs and honeycomb cheesecakes.

£39, 1-29 March, Clifton Nurseries, 5A Clifton Villas, W9 penhaligons.com

LACE UP If you’re a fan of YSL’s Touche Éclat (and let’s face it, who isn’t?) then hot foot it to the nearest make-up counter to get your hands on a collector’s edition of the coveted concealer. The Rock Lace version of YSL’s bestselling product sees the traditional gold case get a redesign – a fishnet tights inspired bottle complete with a polka-dot print. Available in three different shades, banish dark circles and illuminate your visage at the click of a button.

£25, yslbeauty.co.uk

RITZ AND GLAMOUR The Ritz Salon has announced that luxury spa and skincare brand Elemis will now be the only line used at the hotel. Elemis, which uses natural ingredients, offers a range of treatments to guests, including an exclusive body and face wrap using its Frangipani Monoi range. The salon has recently undergone refurbishment, and has introduced two new treatment rooms and a manicure and pedicure space.

Treatments from £145, the Ritz Salon, theritzlondon.com

TIME FOR TEA Embrace the new season with Butter London’s latest collection, High Tea, which brings together a refreshing spring palette of pastels and bright colours, juxtaposed with rock chick eyeliners and cream eyeshadows in moodier shades. Our favourites include Cheers! yellow and Tiddly orange for nails and cheeks (pictured), and a new eye pencil in All Hail The Queen, an easy-to-blend bronze. For a good gift idea, purchase the fourpiece lacquer set of Green Fairy, Ruby Murray, High Tea and Tiddly for £25. Ideal for the tea party, or the after party.

From £14, butterlondon.co.uk

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WATER Works

Kari Colmans gets spring-ready with a mani-pedi and a glass of fizz by the Haybarn spa’s rooftop pool

Y

ou can’t help but feel a bit guilty scampering off on a Monday afternoon in March to sit by a pool and be totally indulged. The weather is unseasonably mild and sunny (a brief spurt that no doubt by the time this prints will be a long and distant memory), as if it knew that the Haybarn’s indoor/outdoor rooftop pool within the Berkeley Hotel was just dying to shrug off its winter rolltop and go commando. If you’ve ever been to a Bamfordbranded spa before, then you’ll recognise the instantly uplifting herby scents of basil, rosemary and fig leaf emanating from the candles that surround the spa’s white-washed, Cotswolds-chic entrance. Its shelves are interlaced with the familiar garden-green Bamford bottles and a handful of the brand’s selected cashmere

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sweaters and scarves, in varying shades of neutral, while the smiling therapists greet you like a long-lost friend. I’ve brought my mum along for the ride – she has kindly foregone a trip to Matches in place of a take-your-mother-to-work day – and we are both shown up to the aforementioned pool, flanked by pretty gardens on either side, for a spot of pre-treatment lunch.

The menu is concise, but there’s plenty of choice, with the quality as worthy as you’d expect from the Berkeley and its resident foodie heroes – a Devonshire crab salad for her, a naughtier chicken sandwich for me (with chips), and an exploding Burrata accompanied by multicoloured beetroot in the middle, just because. A range of smoothies and teas are also on offer, which we sample before having a dip in the pool; the sun has gone in, and the roof is closed (it can be manoeuvred either way in all of three minutes), but it doesn’t stop us enjoying the water and relaxing with a magazine or two. While we dry off, a slate board arrives dotted with truffles and strawberries, emblazoned with a welcome note written in coulis, and accompanied by two celebratory glasses of Champagne: the staff can’t do enough to check if we need top-ups, or anything else our hearts (or stomachs) could desire. From there we head back down to reception and the nail salon, which is nestled within the cashmere-lined folds of the shop. I had pre-booked a shellac mani-pedi for myself, which was relaxing from start to finish and offered a good range of colours to choose from, although having forgotten to organise the same for my mother, the staff were able to accommodate and squeeze her in at the same time on the chair right next to me. I suspect they’d had to switch quite a few things round, but you’d never know it. Other treatments include experiences by Bamford (a range of luxurious massages and exfoliations); Berkeley packages (from full day to three-week health and wellness programmes, including use of the gym); and Oskia facials. A truly unique spot for rooftop bathing and pampering in the heart of the capital, it doesn’t come much classier than this. n

Manicures and pedicures from £55 each, Wilton Place, SW1X the-berkeley.co.uk



Suppliers of quality bespoke doors and ironmongery to some of the UK’s finest homes. Showrooms: Esher, Surrey & Chelsea Harbour 01932 851 081 or 0207 376 7000 info@solidwoodendoors.com www.solidwoodendoors.com


interiors

wish list HITTING A WALL Bringing a hint of couture to wallcoverings, Fromental specialises in the most luxurious fabrics and wallpapers, handcrafted by specialist embroiderers and makers in London and China. Teeming with intricate patterns and compositions it’s not unheard of for a bespoke design to take up to 600 hours to stitch and paint. Those who aren’t a fan of the white cube look should pop along to the Kensal Rise branch for some inspiration. Showcasing the brand’s full spectrum of designs – from historic classicism to contemporary cool – there’s a plethora of 18th-century Chinoiserie and abstract 20th-century panoramas to feast your eyes on. Bare walls be gone.

Fromental, 326 Kensal Road, W10

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Interiors inspiration Flying the flag Luxury Living Group’s Knightsbridge flagship is now open for business. Artfully arranged across two floors, the concept store displays Italiandesigned furniture, home textiles and accessories from Trussardi Casa and Heritage as well as an entire floor dedicated to Bentley Home. The British motoring brand might be more widely recognised for designing cars not couches – but its foray into furniture doesn’t miss the mark. Expect carefully crafted, timeless pieces, honed in traditional materials such as briar root and marble.

luxurylivinggroup.com

Bentley Wellington four-seater sofa and Cliffden coffee tables, Bentley Home lifestyle collection 2015 © Luxury Living Group

The design maverick Piero Fornasetti, the man who had a knack for turning miscellaneous objects into works of art, is the subject of Patrick Mauriès latest book Fornasetti: Practical Madness. The coffee-table tome celebrates the renowned designer’s whimsical and decorative imagination through his paintings. Published to coincide with an exhibition of Fornasetti’s work at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, the pageturner details a number of designs for his renowned Themes and Variations collection, including his sought-after depictions of a famous operatic beauty.

Fornasetti: Practical Madness by Patrick Mauriès, £50, published on 6 April by Thames & Hudson, thamesandhudson.com


interiors

Bisazza limited edition Collane (inset) and Fontana designs by Emilio Pucci

Night on the tiles

Coasting along Ralph Lauren has spanned the globe for inspiration for its new spring lines. The Porte de Riviera collection (pictured) is a lesson in nautical chic, with striped textiles, dark mahogany and white lacquered furniture. The Corral Canyon range meanwhile spans rustic, sun-faded leather, weathered teak and tribal-inspired textiles, so you can recreate a sunny oasis in your sitting room.

1 New Bond Street, W1S

Geometric patterns and kaleidoscopic colours might not be the first design references that spring to mind when you’re contemplating tiling your bathroom floor. But, ever ahead of the curve, the mosaic masters at Bisazza have engineered an eye-catching collection inspired by the Emilio Pucci fashion archives. Interpreting a selection of the fashion house’s signature prints, the bright tile collection includes two computer generated patterns as well as three limited edition panels – Collane, Fontana and Vivara – made entirely by hand using traditional tessellation techniques.

bisazza.com

All kitted out Interior designer and hotelier Kit Kemp has several strings to her bow. Rather than take a break following the recent launch of Ham Yard Hotel (the ninth offering in the Firmdale Hotels’ portfolio), she has collaborated with Anthropology to create an exclusive home decor edit. The whimsical 14-piece Folkthread collection has hints of embroidery, collage and natural fibres woven into its selection of soft furnishings.

158 Regent Street, W1B

The natural elements Organic materials form the starting point of award-winning interior designer Katharine Pooley’s latest homeware range, which incorporates contemporary lines, monochromatic shades and a scattering of semi-precious stone. Silver trinket boxes inlaid with onyx and rawedged agate bookends sit alongside crystal vases, decanters and candlesticks.

katharinepooley.com Folkthread cubist side table, £348 and armchair, £898

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Carly Madhvani opens her appointment-only, at-home showroom NW3 Interiors to talk familylife, local clients and timeless style. Interview by Kari Colmans


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M

y kids and I get up at 7:20am and we start the day with a smoothie: banana, strawberry, yoghurt and chia seeds. I’m quite into that at the moment. I’m obsessed with my Nutribullet Pro right now, which is amazing. Me, my daughter Skyla, 10, and son Kiva, 7, are out the door by 8:00am and we walk the ten minutes up Fitzjohn’s Avenue to Devonshire House School, unless the weather is terrible. It’s co-ed, which is really useful; just different buildings. I can then be home by 8:15am. I either start my day working, or if I’ve got time, I’ll exercise before I go to a meeting. I practice Muay Thai, the Thai kick-boxing martial arts, so often I’ll go to my fighting club. It’s intense, prolonged exercise, but I quite like that. I do that three times a week with circuit or hit training twice a week too. Often I will go running with friends or my husband Manish up to Primrose Hill or Regent’s Park. Home by 10am, I then run through emails and start thinking about my clients and where I’m at with various projects. I just try and cover all my bases every day: where am I going, making sure that people are looked after. Being

a working mum, I also integrate that with stuff for the family; booking holidays and maintaining the house as it is also the showroom for NW3 Interiors, a personalised interior design and procurement service. Right now we are getting the porch done, as well as a new hallway, so I’m managing builders, ordering bespoke furniture calling the decorators and getting quotes. The main two reasons for having my showroom where I live is that I wanted my clients to see how well furniture lasts when you buy timeless pieces, and how it looks in a family home. I also didn’t want the burden of having a separate retail space, because with my husband away working most of the week, and the kids to look after, I didn’t need the expense or pressure. In the glass room, which is my main showroom area, the back wall is huge. I could have painted it or hung art up, but I mixed the two and chose to go with Fromental, an exquisite, handmade luxury wallpaper maker. I chose the colours that I wanted in a style that I love which is the outdoors; so there are trees, birds and butterflies, all hand-painted and mixed with silk and thread. It’s a cool and bespoke way of having art that you love, in the colours that you want. I discovered the copper chair when I was with a friend at a photoshoot at Champneys. Copper is supposed to have healing properties from ancient times and I love

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the colour. I already had flecks of copper in the legs of my sofa and in the thread of the wallpaper. I found the chair online and contacted the company, Myburgh Designs, and we got one in. It’s in five hotels across the UK, including Lime Wood hotel and Babington House, but it’s not been seen in a residential home until now. It brought something to Hampstead that had not been seen before. My main sofa is Knoll; it’s Alpaca fabric in ivory with copper legs. What’s special about it is the fact that you can have different fabrics on the frame to the cushions, which can be a nice contrast. Some of my clients are doing red on the outside with cream cushions. Alternatively, I’ve just done black with black for a customer, which looked quite cool too. In the kitchen I’ve got a beautiful Tulip table, which is 12 years old. I bought it before I had the kids. It’s so practical. Knoll sold the highest number of Tulip tables ever in the UK in January this year. It’s pure white marble which was the most expensive marble at the time. It’s one of not many stones that keep going up in price. They’re still so popular, and part of the reason is that you can fit your legs underneath it. And the oval shape just suits a bay window, which many of the houses in this area have. It comes in 21 different top types now, so it’s just a really good one to show. I delivered one just like this to Melanie Sykes this morning, who is a really great local client of mine.

I am working on a number of projects right now: one is turning a Victorian terraced house into a New York industrial-style loft. The client wants the kitchen, hallway and lounge to all have a kind of ‘through’ scheme. She has three kids, and one’s a baby, so we looked at lamb’s wool rugs on statement chairs to add loads of texture; we’ve got a feathered central pendent light to add texture as well, because she’s got plain painted walls. In the kitchen we’re putting copper lights and a bespoke table; all industrial. We have chosen chairs that are stackable and they can be used indoors and outdoors, so that was a big tick for her. I also did a beautiful couple of pieces for Jessica Pirès, wife of Robert Pirès, who is a huge Arsenal football club legend. She’s a really nice local mum and client and she’s introduced me to other people. She bought a classic Le Corbusier LC4 Chaise lounge and a Vauni fire – a bioethonal fire. My client base is almost exclusively local families who appreciate design and want something that’s going to last a long time. They don’t want to have to think about the delivery and the ordering. They want to get one sofa from one company, a dining table from another brand, a rug from another, a lamp from somewhere else, and I can put it all together, and then be there on the day of delivery and instalment, making sure everything’s exactly as it should be. I sort out the fit, the layout, the specifications, and the fabrics.


interiors

Pots by Takeshi Yasuda, courtesy of Sylvester Fine Art and Goldmark Gallery

Before starting NW3 Interiors, I worked at Spacecraft International, who is Knoll’s biggest dealer, for 12 years. I did time in every department from marketing to sales so I understand how all the pieces are put together from start to finish. So that’s where my experience came from, and I can now understand all of that process because I have done it on such a huge scale. As well as Knoll, I also have great relationships with Vitra, Cassina, Fritz Hansen, Vauni, Fromental, Flos, The Rug Company and B&B Italia, to name just a few. I have also just been shortlisted for a Design and Architecture award, which is so exciting. Balancing interior design with running a house is difficult but I employ people to help. It’s hard to physically look after a home that has to be showroom standard. Even though people know that it’s your home, they’re not expecting to come here and for it to be a mess. It’s all about time management, getting people on board as much as possible, and just being aware and not booking in too many things at once even though it’s tempting. I just have to keep it real and then it’s OK: perfect really, and so convenient. As well as running NW3, I collect the children at around 4:00pm around three times a week, and then I stop work. We’ll play Scrabble or chess or Monopoly. Two nights a week they both play football. And the other two days that I don’t collect them they come back and do their homework, play, or have friends

over. I always order my groceries from Ocado; I never go to a supermarket anymore, I don’t have the time. I also get Abel and Cole or Hello Fresh, who deliver amazing fresh food in just the right quantities with a recipe. I try and be as healthy as I can, but it’s always wholesome, oragnic food. That’s so important. I love the atmosphere around north-west London. Sure, the period homes are great, and of course the open spaces. But I just love the vibe of the people; they’re so fun and creative and hard-working. Where I used to live, they just didn’t seem to get me. I think they found me to be too full on. Whereas around here everyone’s full on, so if you’re crazy busy, running from here to there, that’s standard, because everybody’s got a mad schedule. That brings with it a certain character. If I had to describe my brand in a few words, firstly I would say that it’s luxurious. Another word would be useful, but I don’t think that sounds very glamorous. But we are useful because there are people around here who are too busy to think about their home. If you live in this area, you’ve got to be busy; people are working, they’ve got high-pressured jobs, and for somebody else to take away that practicality of ordering, to think for them, to educate them, to help them focus. That’s useful. And it’s a luxury. n

10 Lyndhurst Gardens, NW3 nw3interiorsltd.com

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The Emilia

Classic, Elegant & Sophisticated

www.icandyworld.com


fa m i ly

wish list

formative ears Not many shops can boast royal fans, but when Kate and Wills are your neighbours a regal sighting is all the more likely. Knightsbridge-based Blue Almonds was rumoured to be Kate’s port of call for Prince George’s Moses basket – which will no doubt be whipped out again for the second arrival this month (and it’s not hard to see why). The luxury children’s boutique started out as a bespoke nursery furniture store, and now offers a vast range of interiors and clothing for little ones, like this made-to-order Bunny Chair – a cream leather-bound armchair with novelty rabbit ears.

£4,000, bluealmonds.co.uk

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nurserynews FLOWER POWER Cashmere connoisseur Cashmirino has launched its collection for SS15, featuring Liberty of London prints. The brand, which was established in 2000, uses the finest cashmeres, cottons and linens to create clothes for children that are as comfortable as they are stylish. The latest range, which caters for babies, children and juniors, includes linen and cotton separates in spring pastels and shades of blue, as well as summer dresses with hand-stitched embroidery and Liberty's signature floral motifs.

From £57, cashmirino.com

hot dog For a canine-friendly weekend that your kids will love, head down to the Cabbages and Frocks market in Marylebone, which is once again hosting its Dog Day Afternoon on 25 April. The event includes a Good Boy Dog School and a performance from Britain’s Got Talent’s favourite pooches. For the competitive amongst you, enter your dog into the canine competition, which includes a range of categories such as best dog trick, a lookalike contest between pets and their owners and a best newcomer prize for the cutest puppy. There will also be a range of stalls selling dog accessories and trinkets, like this personalised Yorkshire terrier map (pictured).

25 April, St Marylebone Parish Church grounds, Marylebone High Street, W1U

CURIOUSER AND CURIOUSER “What is the use of a book without pictures or conversations?” said Alice, way back in 1865 when Lewis Carroll’s Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland was released for the first time. Taking her advice on board, a new edition of the book will be published in April to celebrate its 150th anniversary, complete with the original John Tenniel illustrations and an introduction by Dame Vivienne Westwood. The fashion designer has also created a cover for the tome, which features a bold harlequin print, a design synonymous with her eponymous brand. Westwood has long been a fan of Alice, so much so that her AW11 show was inspired by the novel. The anniversary edition will also include end notes designed by Westwood and the sequel, Through the Looking Glass.

£15, waterstones.com


fa m i ly

LITTLE MISSONI

DINNER WINNER Cute wallpaper designer Ana-moly has expanded its range of charming animal prints to include a collection of children’s tableware. Featuring robin, donkey and fish designs on bright backgrounds, the ceramic collection is dishwasher and oven friendly. All designs are available on a two-handled mug and bowl made out of durable earthenware clay, so strong there’s no need to worry about those lunch-time tantrums. All Ana-moly products are British sourced and made with lead-free glazes.

From £16, ana-moly.co.uk

sea life Inspired by all things aquatic, cult Swedish brand Mini Rodini’s latest collection See You Later Alligator is bound to make waves. Offering swimwear and separates, the collection comes in bold prints with an ocean theme, featuring crocodiles, merpeople, seagulls and dolphins, to name a few. What’s more, the collection is all for a good cause: the clothes are made from recycled PET bottles and other plastic waste, a known pollutant of sea waters and a high risk for marine mammals.

As heiress to one of the biggest fashion houses in the world, it would be safe to presume that Margherita Maccapani Missoni has a natural flair for design. Ready to show off her talent, Margherita is launching a selftitled collection of childrenswear this month, exclusive to Yoox.com. Featuring printed summer dresses, skirts and tops, ‘Margherita’ is designed for infants aged 0-2 and girls up to the age of seven. The debut collection sports fish prints, sailor stripes and floral patterns in spring colours of pink, blue and green.

From £16, yoox.com

From £15, minirodini.com

IF THE GLASS SLIPPER FITS To coincide with the release of the feature-film, Disney fans will have the chance to embrace their inner Cinderella this month by visiting the Bibbidi Bobbidi Boutique at Harrods. Hosted by their very own Fairy Godmother-in-Training who will teach the inner qualities needed to become Cinderella – from her courage and kindness to her sense of humour and generosity – your little ones will transform on the outside to either the princess at the ball (pictured) or at her wedding, with all the regal trimmings.

£300-£500, harrods.com/Disney

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health&fitness

health & fitness

SNEAKER peek Sometimes catwalk trends can be hard to make work in our everyday lives, but outfit-defining trainers we can get on board with. Thanks to the Adidas Stan Smith and Nike Roshe Run, keeping fit in style is back on the sartorial menu, and we couldn’t be happier (or comfier). Embracing the trend is Harvey Nichols, which has created a space on the third floor of its Knightsbridge store dedicated entirely to trainers. The Sneaker Concept features

120 styles by 20 designers including Rick Owens, Acne and Y-3, as well as a range of styles exclusive to Harvey Nichols. Alongside this, Harvey Nichols has collaborated with Filling Pieces and Opening Ceremony to create two co-branded capsule collections.

From £60, 109-125 Knightsbridge, SW1X harveynichols.com

SINK OR SWIM

HEART OF THE MATTER If you’re searching for a local fitness class that will burn calories but not time, look no further than Heartcore. The Pilates and circuit-training studio based on Hampstead High Street offers a range of classes to suit all fitness levels, including a reformer-based dynamic Pilate’s class that condenses an intense workout into 55 minutes. The lesson helps burn calories rapidly, leading to a toned and sculpted physique. Other classes include CycleCore, KettleCore (Pilates with the addition of a kettle ball) and private training.

From £27 for a single class 50 Hampstead High Street, NW3

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Net-A-Sporter, the active branch of the luxury e-tailer, welcomes new swimwear range Ward Whillas this month. The collection features reversible swimsuits and bikini separates in navy blues, dark greens and grid prints. The styles are made with compression fabric to sculpt a sleeker silhouette as well as quick drying Italian fabrics with UV protection and resistance to chlorine and body lotions.

From £290, net-a-porter.com


Every 2 minutes

someone in the UK is diagnosed with cancer.

early diagnosis and treatment has led to a major increase in survival rates. our team of highly experienced consultants and oncologists will support you at every stage of your journey.

Call our team today www.thewellingtonhospital.com

020 7483 5000


Y R D O O T B C E O H D T David Marshall’s elite Bodydoctor training programme promises spectacular body transformations in record time. Mother of three Kate Harrison puts her body in his hands

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et fit, lose fat, call the doc. If you do that, I will change your life forever,” says personal trainer David Marshall. With a who’s who of high-profile clients ranging from England footballers (Frank Lampard went on to set the record for consecutive football games after his sessions with Marshall) to actors, models and TV presenters passing through his studios, Marshall has complete faith in his abilities to make people fit while still enjoying the process. The man behind numerous major celebrity transformations from Lily Allen to Sophie Dahl has been transforming bodies – and lives – for over 20 years. Better known as the Bodydoctor, Marshall is an intriguing character; with a self-confessed weakness for bacon sandwiches he’s more likely to chant blessings as you finish your final reps than bark orders bootcamp style. “You only look good when you feel good, and you only feel good when you’re healthy. That only happens when you restore your body to optimum health – and put your body back into

balance. The aesthetic is a by-product,” Marshall says with conviction. “You need to have fun doing it, or you look for excuses to quit, and you need to enjoy life at the same time.” Also on his client list are the three male leads in Sky’s mega-series Game of Thrones: Kit Harington, Alfie Allen and Richard Madden. Apparently, they requested the ‘Body Doc’ regime specifically, in order to bare all for the series. Having had three children back to back and suffering muscle damage from pregnancy, I was dubious to say the least that Marshall’s celebrity transformations could prove effective on someone who has participated in absolutely no form of exercise in over five years. Glancing around his Mayfair and Belgravia studios (I split my training between the two) the Bodydoctor quickly assures me otherwise. “Pregnancy is the ultimate example of the body being out of balance,” he tells me. The studios are predictably kitted out with every fitness machine you could possibly imagine – and a fair few you couldn’t. The first thing I notice is the space afforded each client: the Belgravia studio is spread over 3,500sq ft, but there are never more than two trainers


health&fitness

working at one time. It feels like my own oasis. The philosophy is ‘everything you need, and nothing you don’t, available for you.’ My personal favourite is a contraption fondly named the ‘spaceship’. A novel take on the StairMaster, it will elicit a derrière that is “out of this world,” so Marshall informs me. A cliché perhaps, but anything close to rivalling Pippa Middleton and I certainly wouldn’t be one to complain. Down to business, and we begin with a session to measure my body fat in inches and to assess my fitness boundaries and starting level, moving on to cover all the exercises I would be doing in great detail. The idea is to break down each movement into individual components of posture, breathing, timing and core awareness to ‘pre-programme’ my muscles over an unfamiliar range of movements. Unfamiliar is an understatement. Together with nutritional advice to enhance results, it’s understandable why the Bodydoctor has been described as fitness teaching rather than training. The philosophy is rather clean cut; train to a level where the body accepts exercise. Ultimately, practicing each exercise with correct posture and core awareness gears your body towards maximising your energy expenditure in minimal time. Once learned, the exercises are hard to forget. Inevitably, with three children, some sessions are missed, so I’m given homework to do on my own to keep the rhythm going. Over the six-week programme (completing three sessions per week) a varied regime is implemented, along with my nutritional guide. Far from my fears of liquid diets and kissing steak dinners goodbye, the

guide focuses on an increase in natural produce and consuming more protein than I ever imagined. Marshall’s programme is based on resistance training, cardio work and kettlebells, but the exercises are very similar to pilates, with the emphasis on long, lean muscles over a full range of movements, everything emanating from the core. It feels like yoga with weights. I spend a lot of time on Marshall’s favourite, the GTS, a machine that uses a glideboard to replicate every kind of lunge and resistance exercise conceivable. Each exercise works from the tummy out. The increase in protein suddenly becomes clear; muscle requires protein. “You create lean muscle, you raise your metabolism, you burn fat and lose weight. Simple,” he chants happily. Yes, simple... Three weeks in and the results are showing much faster than expected. I can actually identify different muscle groups within my physique and areas I had frankly given up hope of tightening begin to show tone. The prospect of a sleeveless LBD no longer terrifies me, and I’m actually enjoying my sessions. By the end of the programme I have gone down two dress sizes, improved my overall shape and most amazingly of all, have more energy than I thought humanly possible with three children under five. Suffice it to say, I’m a convert. n

“Three weeks in and the results are much faster than expected”

For personal training or to sign up to the six-week fitness programme, contact David Marshall at Bodydoctor Fitness, 36 South Audley Street, 020 7499 9990, or 119 Eaton Square, Belgravia, 020 7235 2211 bodydoctor.com

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Bowel Cancer: The importance of early diagnosis Consultant General and Colorectal Surgeon, Mr Lee Dvorkin discusses the testing and treatments available for bowel cancer


health promotion

Bowel cancer develops from a malignant tumour situated anywhere in the large bowel (colon) or back passage (rectum). Bowel cancer is the fourth most common cancer in the UK, with over 41,000 new cases diagnosed each year. Bowel cancer is most common in the over 60s and is rare in people younger than 40 years old. Survival is improved if the cancer is discovered early, with a 93 per cent survival rate for early detection. However, if the cancer has spread to other parts of the body, very few people survive five years from diagnosis. The majority of cases develop from pre-cancerous polyps (tiny growths in the bowel) which, if left untreated, can develop into cancer. What are the common symptoms of bowel cancer? The symptoms of bowel cancer are variable and can include: • Diarrhoea or loose stools for over three weeks • Blood in a stool • Weight loss Some patients are diagnosed through the • Tiredness and breathlessness (this can NHS Bowel Cancer Screening Programme, occurs in those cancers which bleed, which is offered to everyone aged 60-69 Mr Lee Dvorkin MD, FRCS (Gen Surg) is a causing anaemia) years old (75 years in some areas). Every two Colorectal Surgeon dealing with benign and years, patients are asked to send a stool malignant bowel diseases. He is an expert in If you are suffering from any of these sample to the laboratory and if blood is symptoms, it is very important you see a detected, a colonoscopy is offered to see if keyhole surgery and spends a lot of time bowel specialist for further investigation. there are early signs of cancer. Bowel cancer teaching and training other surgeons. screening reduces the risk of dying from His other areas of practice include Who is most at risk of bowel cancer? bowel cancer by 16 per cent, emphasising the gallstone surgery and hernias. The biggest single risk factor is age. More than importance of participating. eight out of 10 bowel cancers are diagnosed in people aged 60 or over. The chance of getting bowel How do you treat bowel cancer? cancer also goes up if there is a strong family history, i.e. The best treatment for bowel cancer is an operation having several relatives with bowel cancer, especially if they are to remove the cancer and its surrounding lymph glands. These particularly young. operations are performed by keyhole surgery, with around less than a weeks stay in hospital. For cancer in the rectum, radiotherapy is Other factors thought to increase risk include smoking, obesity and sometimes used to shrink down the tumour, before surgery. eating excessive red meat, animal fat and sugar. A reduced risk has been found in those who exercise and eat more fibre and pulses. There Often, surgery is all the treatment that is needed, but if the cancer are also some medical conditions that increase the risk of bowel cancer involves the lymph glands, chemotherapy is recommended, which and these include: ulcerative colitis, Crohn’s disease and diabetes. can last for six months. Surgery can also be used to remove certain cancers that have spread to the liver or lungs, although this is not How is bowel cancer detected? always possible. The two most common investigations to diagnose bowel cancer are a colonoscopy (a camera examination of the large bowel) and a CT scan. Source: Cancer Research UK

meet the specialist

GeneHealth UK at The Wellington Hospital From March, GeneHealth UK will be holding regular clinics at the Platinum Medical Centre, St John’s Wood. The genetics counsellors offer private genetic tests for a range of cancers, including bowel, breast, prostate and ovarian. Although cancer is not often inherited, in some families there may be an increased risk due to a genetic fault (mutation).

Genetic testing on a blood or saliva sample analyses 12 genes associated with bowel cancer. If a genetic alteration is identified, relatives can have genetic testing to determine their own risk. Usually children and siblings will have a 50 per cent chance of having the same genetic alteration.

For more information or to make an appointment please visit www.genehealthuk.com or telephone 0800 331 7177

For further information or if you would like to arrange an appointment at The Wellington Hospital, please contact the Enquiry Helpline on 020 7483 5000 or visit thewellingtonhospital.com

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More than just a name, Snow Lepoard vodka was created to help save this beautiful creature from extinction. 15% of profits from the brand are given directly to Snow Leopard conservation projects. Award winning Snow Leopard vodka is the first luxury vodka to be made from the Spelt grain, which provides a unique and distinct, nutty fresh taste. Available from Selfridges, Hedonism Drinks and Fortnum and Mason

www.snowleopardvodka.co.uk


food&drink

wish list

Choux fit First there was Parisian ‘pastry shop of dreams’ La pâtisserie des Rêves to coax those with a sweet tooth to Marylebone High Street. And now, following in its sugary footsteps, comes Pierre Marcolini, a pioneer in the art of Haute Chocolaterie from Brussels, set to open its first UK outpost in Marylebone this month. Expect a very chic and minimal interior where the truffles do the talking from the bespoke chocolate counter, as well as a macaroon carousel, sweetie bar, tasting area and ‘chocothèque’ library. In addition to chocolates, you will also find a range of freshly made éclairs in fruity flavours, financier cakes made from faro almonds, and shortbread bursting with the tastes of coffee, lemon and caramel. Aside from building a reputation for his sweet treats, Pierre Marcolini adheres to strict ethical standards, sourcing his ‘grand cru’ cocoa directly from independent producers in Brazil, Cuba, Ecuador, Ghana, Madagascar and Vietnam.

37 Marylebone High Street, W1U

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Foodie favourites UP IN ARMS One of our favourite local pubs, The Truscott Arms in Maida Vale, added another string to its bow last month by snaring the Sustainable Pub of the Year gong from the Sustainable Restaurant Association, headed by Raymond Blanc. “These awards are for me as important as Michelin Stars,” Blanc says. “They represent what everybody who is passionate about food should regard as the perfect ingredients.” Pay a visit this month to sample head chef Aidan McGee’s new spring menu, which features Cornish crab with radishes and borage; veal sweetbreads with lavender honey; halibut with smoked clams and cider sauce; and egg custard tarts with perry sorbet. Pub grub this ain’t.

55 Shirland Road, W9

domino effect Marking 150 years as a London landmark, The Club at Café Royal has launched a series of international guest chef collaborations which will see the kitchen of its newly launched Domino Room play host to some of the world’s greatest taste-makers. Avant-garde Spanish chef Paco Roncero will be kicking off the proceedings with a menu of squid risotto and curry oils and ‘mango egg’, which will be served until 11 April.

founders keepers Laughing in the face of last year’s micro-restaurant trend is Percy & Founders, a new 200 cover restaurant and bar scheduled to open in Fitzrovia this month. Executive chef Diego Cardoso earned his stripes in some of the world’s most creative kitchens, including his most recent position as head chef at Angela Hartnett’s Murano, and will be serving simple British and European food from breakfast through to lunch, dinner and evening cocktails.

1 Pearson Square, Fitzroy Place, W1

68 Regent Street, W1B Photography by Nicholas Kay

THE WORLD IS YOUR OYSTER Now that you’ve finally got in at Chiltern Firehouse, they’re taking the hype back outside to its paparazzi-filled pavement with a seasonal oyster and Champagne cart. Set in the hotel’s courtyard, you can choose from three types of rock and native oysters, paired with the famous smoky Firehouse sauce or Ponzu. Champagne and ice cold vodka will be served by the glass while you huddle under a blanket: the outsider is the new insider.

Open Wednesday-Friday, 12noon-8.30pm and Saturday-Sunday, 11am-8.30pm until the end of April. 1 Chiltern Street, W1U


food&drink

Restaurant Review

Raising the steaks Lauren Romano discovers why Kobe beef is a cut above with a visit to Engawa Image courtesy of Daisuke Shima Nacása & Partners Inc

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ive or take a few, there are only 3,000 Kobe cattle raised every year. This prized beef, which was banned from import into the EU until last May, is the most costly of all cuts. The Beyoncé of the bovine world – if the rumours are to be believed – it’s not unknown for farmers to massage their herd, feed them beer and even brush their coats with saké to soften the distinctly fat-marbled brawn. Kobe takes provenance to a whole new level; reared in strict conditions in Hyogo Prefecture, only about 10 per cent of the meat produced by this elite herd of cows is exported each year. And as I tuck into an eight-course tasting dinner at Engawa, where menus are arranged around this delicacy, I reckon that I make a fair stab at working my way through the UK’s quota. Here, the meat is served in a number of ways – from raw to seared, teppanyaki style. I’d read up on its so called ‘melt in the mouth’ qualities with some scepticism, but it only takes one course for me to appreciate the unique taste sensation that knocks the socks off even the juiciest fillet steak. Tucked away in the Ham Yard Hotel complex, the elegant and bijoux (just 29 covers) restaurant is a week out of soft launch when I visit, but has already gathered a quiet confidence. Crossing the twinkly lit courtyard from the bar at the hotel, it seems ‘quiet’ is definitely

“The meat is served in a number of ways – from raw to seared” the operative word here. I spy a quintet of chefs manning the grill in the open kitchen in full view of the diners who have managed to obtain coveted front-row seats. Approaching it looks like the action is unfolding on mute, but even when I settle at my table it’s surprisingly peaceful. The unflappable chefs are a vision of calm, chopping away without so much as breaking into a sweat (Benihana this is not). The artfully constructed dishes have their undivided attention. Diners can choose from three, five or eight courses in the evening and a selection of bento boxes at lunchtime. I am swayed into the full eight courses by the charming manager Daniel Ashworth who formerly worked

at Nobu. It is by his persuasion too that I am reacquainted with saké after a long (and deliberate) hiatus, with a tasting set of three International Wine Challenge nominated brews – Myoukousan, Iso Jiman and Toko – and a refreshingly crisp Lemongrass Stinger saké cocktail, just to cover all bases. As the courses begin to arrive in quick succession, I’m grateful for the loose waistband on my trousers. Arriving spectacularly atop a block of ice, the dainty dish of Kobe beef yukhoe – finely chopped cubes of beef swimming in dashi stock and garnished with grated yam and peppery strands of spring onion julienne – is the best of the trio of appetisers, which also include a smooth chawan-mushi and kobe beef soup and a prawn and vegetable tempura ball. A sashimi selection follows, beautifully presented in an array of colourful ceramic bowls of varying shapes and sizes. It is with regret that I have to skewer a slippery scallop that eludes my (highly accomplished) chopstick skills, ruining the neat aesthetic in one fell swoop. The oriental pick ‘n’ mix becomes a bit overwhelming at this stage. For the main event we are asked to choose our preferred cut from two raw slabs presented with a flourish in a black box, and a plate of thinly sliced, rare-cooked steak promptly arrives. Defeated by the buttery Kobe, I am about to throw in my napkin when a sushi platter appears on a little wooden plinth, leaving a maki roll and various other slivers of fish hovering at mouth level. Eight courses really is, in my opinion, too much, especially given the richness of some of the dishes. For anyone who suffers from eyes bigger than belly syndrome, err on the side of caution with the five course option. Having said that, I still manage to find room in my ‘dessert stomach’ for the tofu cheesecake served with a green tea infused chocolate dipping sauce. It surprises me that the chefs haven’t thought up an inventive way to Kobify this end note, but then that really would be too much of a good thing. n

2 Ham Yard, W1

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SEOUL

FOOD Photography / rob cadman

With her first restaurant Jinjuu just opened in Soho, TV chef Judy Joo invites Lauren Romano into her Marylebone home to talk swapping the trading floor for the kitchen, partying at the Playboy Mansion and KFC (that’s Korean Fried Chicken)

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ome people impulse buy shoes, but bespoke appliances are more Judy Joo’s thing. Her credit card took a hit on a cooker. Correction: not just any cooker – a bespoke Molteni. “It’s the Ferrari of stoves,” she trills with her New Jersey accent, adding jokingly, “I could probably do 150 covers off this thing alone”. It’s a serious piece of equipment; an enormous expanse of stainless steel that occupies an entire wall of her open-plan kitchen. As well as the usual rows of gas rings there’s a wok hob complete with a cooling water pit that encircles it like a moat; the colossal pan that sits on top looks like it could stir fry a whole pig. To the left of that the solid top plate resembles the kind of cooking station you’d expect to find Adam Richman from Man v. Food propping up as he salivates over whichever morsel is being prepared for his next waistband-straining challenge.

Then again, a bog-standard hob would hardly be a match for Judy. The chef and TV personality is a household name in the States, where audiences tune in to watch her battle it out on the popular Iron Chef series. On this side of the Atlantic she has cooked alongside the likes of Jason Atherton, stepped up to the plate at Petrus, Maze and The Fat Duck and ran the kitchen at The Playboy Club, all of which held her in good stead for the launch of her first restaurant Jinjuu, which launched in January, bringing Korean-inspired flavours to Kingly Street, Soho. So as she dips into her pantry to pull out a smorgasboard of sesame seed pastes and fiery red chilli powder, it seems only fitting that she would have such a kitchen in her at-home arsenal. “I would never, ever buy this ever again,” she exclaims “It’s so over the top w*nky! We had to shut the street down to lift it in by crane, and then the floor had to be reinforced because it weighs a tonne. We’ve had commercial gas lines installed; I’ve got fire blankets and extinguishers to hand. The hood is ridiculously strong; it can suck the soul out of small kittens,” she deadpans with a mischievous glint. It’s been a busy few months. There’s a book deadline looming (“I’m finishing it today after you leave”) and a second series of Korean Food Made Simple for the Food Network to film, but despite her slightly manic gesticulations, Judy is collected and unfazed. Perched at the breakfast bar early on a Monday morning she is nothing short of radiant. Her dewy complexion shows little sign of make-up, save a sweep of kohl across her eyelids. Her ebony mane tumbles in loose waves over an elegant marine-toned shirt paired with black jeans and a sparkly pair of Brian Atwood courts. Even after


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Hair styling by George Kats

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an insistent protest that she can never totally relax in front of the camera, when the lens is pointed in her direction she is a complete natural, posing like a pro and diligently chopping spring onions until her eyes water. The plaster on her index finger, hiding a blunder with the knife, is the only hint that modelling isn’t actually part of her day job. Her Marylebone abode channels a New York loft vibe. Housed within a grand mansion block moments away from Bond Street, the Annabella Nassetti interior has a unexpected wow-factor. A winding, teak-floored corridor snakes past gleaming golden Buddha’s and a plethora of antique knick-knacks to the vast living quarters. Apart from the impressive kitchen which glints under a metallic halo, there’s plenty of impressive features to distract, including a glassfronted wine cabinet and a seating arrangement that would be a couch potato’s nirvana. Rather than your average three-piece suite, Judy’s couch is a cloud-like chaise-lounge that I’d hazard can accommodate 20 derrières quite comfortably. It’s the sort of seat where your feet don’t even hang off the front, let alone dangle a few feet from the floor. I can’t help but adopt a childlike stance as I nestle myself between the cushions. “I don’t take myself too seriously” Judy laughs as I imagine her diving onto it. Judy says it like it is. She is forthright and confides all with a warm, at-ease American familiarity. Her honesty is both refreshing and disarming. Had it always been her dream to open her own restaurant? “No, I wasn’t even really planning on staying in the UK after my divorce,” she admits – apparently her business partner talked her into it after eating her food at The Playboy Club. “There was a bit of serendipity involved I guess,” she shrugs. “I was hesitant at first because I know how much work is involved.” Born to Korean parents in New Jersey, Judy’s passion for cooking came from her mum. “She used to enslave my sister and me to help her in the kitchen. Cooking comes from the heart; it’s not rocket science. I went from banking to cooking; you’d be hard pressed to do the opposite,” she says, referring to her former life on the trading floors at Goldman Sachs and Morgan Stanley. “I miss the pay check sometimes,” she smiles, “but I don’t miss the fixed income derivatives.” Nowadays Judy spends her time trading recipes and is enjoying bringing her native cuisine to London’s culinary melting pot. Before we get onto the ins and outs of the menu at Jinjuu, however, there is something that Judy is keen to get straight: Korean food is not like Thai food. I only mention it because a certain well-known food critic happened to compare Judy’s wings to the ones at the Smoking Goat, which riled her so much she sent an email listing all the factual inaccuracies to the deputy editor

of the national newspaper. “It’s absurd to presume Asia is one country!” she protests, exasperated. “It’s like comparing a Japanese Ramen to a Vietnamese Pho.” Fired up now, she’s on a roll: “She said she was missing the zing of citrus and fish sauce and that’s not what Korean food is about at all. We don’t even grow citrus in Korea!” That’s me told. So if there’s no lime, lemongrass or coconut, what can diners hope to expect? “Our neighbours are China and Japan, so just get away from south-east Asia full stop,” she explains. “It’s the opposite side of the equator.” Korean food is grounded in fermentation and its chefs are often dubbed the masters of barbecue for their big, bold, vibrant flavours. Jinjuu is a blend of all these influences, with some American and Mexican hints thrown in. “It’s not about fine dining whatsoever,” says Judy. “It’s a very relaxed affair. I like to think that it’s the type of place where you can

“Only work with good people who inspire you. Life’s too short to surround yourself with people who are negative and stagnant”


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eat every day; it’s food that hugs you back.” Judy is borderline evangelical about her whole Korean fried chicken. Not peckish enough to order an entire bird, I nevertheless savoured every mouthful of the crisp, crunchy batter coating the juicy wings when I visited Jinjuu a week later. Working in the kitchen does have its similarities to the trading floor and Judy admits that it’s often a male driven, testosterone arena and a highly pressured environment. “But as a chef you’re not unwinding a billion dollar trade that could implode the economy,” she concedes. “The repercussions end in the dining room – if somebody’s garnish isn’t absolutely perfect, I mean, it’s OK.” After quitting the financial sector for the culinary one, Judy credits many of the chefs she has worked with for getting her to where she is now. A chance meeting with Gordon Ramsay led to a job that took her across several kitchens in his portfolio. “Simone Zanoni was my head chef – him and Jason Atherton are the most inspirational people that I’ve ever worked for. Simone was a kitchen porter and he worked his way all the way up to the top [he’s now the executive chef at the Trianon at Versailles]. It just shows you how hard work and perseverance can get you anywhere you want.” When it comes to life lessons, Judy is characteristically straight talking: “Only work with good people who inspire you. Life’s too short to surround yourself with people who are negative and stagnant. I hate this Mean Girls attitude. Women should celebrate each other. It’s hard enough to be a second class citizen in so many different workplaces as it is. I make a big effort to celebrate women.” Does she think we’ll see more women in charge of kitchens in the future? “It’s one of those things,” she admits. “I’d love to say yes, but it’s a difficult industry. I think things are getting better though. I have a few women in my kitchen, which makes me really happy. They’re unsociable hours, but I have female friends who are partners in corporate law firms, working even longer days, and they can make it happen.” As a champion of women, taking up a role as executive chef at The Playboy Club was not without its hesitations for Judy – “I asked a lot of questions first” – but she insists that it was an eye-opening experience that taught her not to judge. “What right do I have to look down on someone who is a bunny? Not everybody wants to be a doctor; I think you should let everyone carve their own path in life.” She is very clear on the fact that she disagrees with the objectification of women, however she points the finger of blame at society as a whole. “There are so many culprits; music videos are like soft porn these days. I was flickering through a magazine and there was this perfume ad and the woman was naked. Playboy isn’t even that racy anymore. The bunny suits are 1970s swimming costumes – most people wear fewer clothes on the beach.” Did she go to the mansion, I ask innocently? You bet. “I ended up meeting the Playboy corporate team wearing just a thong, bra and garter – it was hysterical!” she roars with laughter.

As the giggles die down she flips to a more serious stance. Her self-confessed greatest achievement is her work with Slow Food USA where she helped set up a schools’ project called Harvest Time in Harlem. The inspiration for the initiative came after Judy took up a position as a maths tutor at a Harlem school and noticed that lots of the kids were overweight. “At the beginning of the project the children couldn’t identify corn on the cob and they thought honey came from bears,” she tells me. A series of cooking classes and after school sessions lasted for eight years and now a farmers’ market has been put in place. “By the end of it so many of the children told me that they wanted to be chefs. We took them to a farm and they were fighting over the carrots they had picked out of the ground,” she beams, but then suddenly looks thoughtful and a little jaded. As she kicks back out of her heels and sinks into the sofa, I ask her what she plans to cook later as she’s having a night off from Jinjuu. “Instant ramen noodles,” she blurts out. “A big, spicy pot – it’s the ultimate comfort food, there’s nothing quite like it.” I’m glad that the bespoke Molteni cooker isn’t going to waste. n

Jinjuu, 15 Kingly Street, W1B jinjuu.com

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not just a hotel,

a way of life

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YOO TIME There is little doubt that the Cotswolds constitute a sizeable jewel in the crown of the English countryside. Set amongst scenic forests and six tranquil lakes near the town of Lechlade, The Lakes by Yoo is a development of lakeside homes available for purchase or holiday rentals, which places the urbane luxury of city living within the picturesque centre of a country landscape. Cosy log fires and quilted sofas sit adjacent to large flat-screen televisions and all other manner of technological wizardry – but this is hardly surprising with Kelly Hoppen and Jade Jagger in charge of interiors. Indulge in the newly built spa on site, available to use whether you’re buying or holidaying, having been recently reinvigerated by famous local spa brand Bamford (we insist you try the 75-minute Signature Glow Facial treatment by OSKIA). A weekend in the country has never looked this good.

thelakesbyyoo.com

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TRAVEL in style HOT SPOT in April

Granada, Spain Soak up the Moorish heritage and captivating architecture in this vibrant Andalucían city Clinging to the shadows of the Sierra Nevada peaks, Granada is defined by its Moorish legacy. Get lost in the labyrinthine old quarter – the whitewashed Albaicín – or explore the turrets and towers of the renowned 11th-century Alhambra fortress before turning your attention to the lively local tapas bars and flamenco haunts as the sun goes down. And if that all gets too much, escape to the foothills to explore the Sierra Nevada National Park, or catch the tail end of the ski season and hit the slopes at the Sierra Nevada Ski Station. Given the historic surroundings, the Hotel Hospes Palacio de los Patos – a beautifully restored 19th-century palace – is an apt place to lay down your head. A seamless and stylish collision of old and new, a contemporary wing has recently been added to the original edifice, which now houses 40 rooms. A quiet sanctuary a stone’s throw from the popular Granada Cathedral, guests can unwind at the Bodyna Spa with a Turkish bath and tuck into the Andalucían cuisine on offer at Los Patos restaurant.

British Airways currently flies from London City to Granada twice a week, with three flights a week in the summer. Fares available to book on ba.com/londoncity; hospes.com


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A certain kudos Sightseeing fatigue is a common holiday conundrum, but anyone who has ever experienced a pang of guilt for vetoing crowded museums for the sun lounger will like the sound of Kudos Life Experiences. The company creates bespoke trips to Greece that avoid the usual tourist traps. For an authentic snapshot of the country’s 3,000-year old civilisation, take a helicopter tour of its most remote landmarks, attend a traditional Greek tragedy play performed in an amphitheatre, or meet the local fishermen and catch and cook your own dinner straight from the Aegean sea. Step away from the guidebook.

kudoslifeexperiences.com

winter GASTRO winners GETAWAYS SHORT HAUL

Great Scot The Balmoral in Edinburgh has upped the stakes even further at its Michelinstarred restaurant – the aptly named Number One – with an elegant new refurbishment. Rich red lacquered walls, dove grey banquettes and oak flooring are complemented by a redesign of the menu by head chef Brian Grigor. Opt for the four-course Scottish Experience Menu for a taste of Balvenie smoked salmon, hand-dived Dingwall scallops and Orkney beef fillet.

Tasting menus from £75; roccofortehotels.com

The Pearl of Asia With hammocks slung between coconut trees, sand the colour of sugar cubes and a turquoise-toned sea, Phu Quoc Island in Vietnam is the very picture of paradise. Its first luxury retreat, Salinda Resort and Spa opened at the beginning of the year with 121 luxury guest rooms and villas. All the activities on offer, from the water sports to the comprehensive spa menu have been devised to match the peaceful pace of island life.

Rooms from £254 per night; salindaresort.com

Hide and souk Tucked away from the hustle, bustle and ferocious bartering of the old maze-like Medina, the Mandarin Oriental’s Marrakech hotel is a tranquil anthesis to the chaos of the walled old town. Opening this month, the collection of 56 private-walled riads is set amid 20 hectares of landscaped olive groves. A further seven suites occupy the main building and come with their own rooftop pools and views of the Atlas Mountains. Get into the swing of things at Marrakech’s premium golf courses, to be found just a five-minute drive away, or relax on site at the palatial spa which boasts two traditional hammams.

LONG HAUL

Farm to fork Sustainable development is the name of the game at Belle Mont Farm. Situated among 400 acres of fertile organic farmland on the island of St Kitts, the farm grows almost all of the produce used in its restaurant and supports local suppliers to source the rest. Guests should look out for ‘pick me’ signs hanging from the ripest fruits, ready to be plucked and enjoyed as they lap up the Caribbean Sea views from their private wrap-around verandas or outdoor bathtub.

bellemontfarm.com

mandarinoriental.com/Marrakech

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lady

of the

manor

Lauren Romano steps back in time at Ireland’s sleepy Ballyfin Demesne, an hour’s drive from Dublin


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ulling up the sweeping mile-long gravel drive, the approach to Ballyfin Demesne in rural Co. Laois appears like a setting Austen may have imagined. Our mini-van feels anachronistic; a horse and carriage would be more apt. Skirting a glassy lake worthy of a Mr Darcy wet shirt moment, the country house looms into view, its stone portico dwarfing the men in waistcoats lined up on the steps waiting to greet us. In the early evening light the Regency mansion looks as though it has barely altered since it was built for Sir Charles Coote in the 1820s. Appearances can be deceptive, however. Re-opened in 2011, Ballyfin underwent a painstaking eight-year restoration to return the premises to its former glory. When Irish independence threatened to turf the British Cootes off their lavish estate, the family sold the house to the Patrician Brothers who ran a school there for much of the 20th century. The religious order couldn’t afford the enormous maintenance costs involved, and eventually the building started to crumble. “When the ceiling fell down in one room, the brothers closed the door and moved to the next,” Butler Lionel (a former pupil of the school) recalls as he ushers us into the imposing entrance hall, pausing in the shadow of a pair of 10,000-year-old antlers once belonging to a beast of an Irish elk. With only 15 rooms, a maximum of 29 guests have the sprawling 600-acre estate at their disposal at any one time. Rambling around the rugged terrain, dotted with ancient woodland, crumbling follies and an eerie medieval-style watchtower, I feel very much like the lady of the manor, complete with fetching Hunter wellies picked out from the fireside selection in the hallway. My practical choice of footwear comes in handy when the dependable Irish elements ink the sky with ominous clouds. Thankfully, at the first hint of rain, a horse and trap comes to the rescue and our steed in shining armour, Billy (Ballyfin’s very own version of Uber) trots our group, huddled in blankets, back to the great house. Once inside, the roaring fires in the magnificent state rooms are a welcoming sight. The palatial saloon becomes the natural gravitation point for my two-night stay, filled with enough curiosities for a lengthy game of I Spy. A curator spent years tracking down pieces of furniture that used to belong to the original house, so I’m told, including the task of sourcing the family portraits that hang above the cantilever staircase. Curled up in a regal-looking armchair with attentive but unintrusive staff on call with cups of tea, the setting is far from being as formal as it appeared on first sight. With a sumptuously furnished library and an ornate gold-leaf drawing room, I rarely bump into fellow guests other than in the dining room. The corridor leading to my state boudoir – the Westmeath Room – is similarly deserted, so much so that I chance the walk to the spa in nothing but my dressing gown. Overlooking the lake, the space is dominated by a beautifully carved four-poster bed which sits in the centre of the sunny yellow-and gold-toned interior. In the spacious bathroom portraits hang above the fireplace and the twin sinks, turning my

morning tooth-brushing into a succinct art history lesson. With so much to explore within the grounds, my stay passes by in a whirl of croquet, clay pigeon shooting, archery and horse riding. Guests can explore the grounds by golf buggy and tandem or, for those with the best balance, you can take a penny-farthing for a spin. All this activity drums up an appetite and the chefs at Ballyfin certainly step up to the plate. From elegant lunches in the light-filled conservatory (remember your sunglasses) to a five-course tasting dinner by candlelight, the menu incorporates seasonal produce, much of which is grown on the estate. On my first night I gorge on Irish Black Dexter steak tartar; Jerusalem artichoke soup with summer truffle shavings; Kilmore Quay line-caught halibut with native lobster; and pearl barley and local cheeses. Each course is expertly matched with wines, but for those who want to get better acquainted with the tipples on offer, a sommelier can guide you around the well-stocked cellar, home to vintages from 14 vineyards established by Irish exiles in the 18th century. If you’re struggling to decide what to wear for the occasion, do as me and the other guests did and raid Ballyfin’s collection of period costumes from the Lyric Opera Company, which you can don as you dine. I spent an hilarious hour riffling through the rails of blancmange-like frocks, petticoats, fans and bonnets, before vetoing my pencil skirt for a more regal look. Bidding farewell to Ballyfin is hard, but the blow is slightly cushioned by the fact that the estate is part of Relais & Châteaux’s Route du Bonheur. Anyone who wants to continue their journey around this part of Ireland in style should stop off at Marlfield House in Gorey, Co. Wexford. The family-run hotel is lovingly presided over by the Bowes, who have run this scaled down, cosier version of Ballyfin for more than three decades. There’s a similar abundance of blast-from-thepast charm to be enjoyed here, too. With 35 acres to explore, walkways weave through dense undergrowth to a courtyard area that has been transformed into a delightful farm-to-table bistro. As I walk off a delicious lunch of cod and home-grown samphire I discover that Marlfield House also has a lake, but sadly the only thing strutting around it is a resplendently plumed peacock and not a Gallic Colin Firth. n

 NEED TO KNOW  All-inclusive rates at Ballyfin Demesne start from €800 (Sunday-Thursday) and €915 (Friday-Saturday) per double room per night (1 October – 31 December excluding Christmas and New Year). In high season (June-August) double rooms start from €1,075. Marlfield House offers rooms on a B&B basis from €230 per room per night ballyfin.com; relaischateaux.com 00 800 2000 0002 For more information about Ireland, visit tourismireland.com, 0800 039 7000

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On the

Dock of the

bay

Jennifer Mason explores the cultural and culinary melting pot of Hamburg

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amburg is a place of contradictions. Each district appears to represent not only a different era in the city’s development, but also a distinct social climate. The Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten situated in the Binnenalster, is renowned for offering visitors access to the finer things in life. But travelling further out will allow those looking for a little more action to relive the early days of The Beatles in the trendy St Pauli quarter, home to numerous clubs, bars and the city’s seedier side, along the infamous Reeperbahn. Or, if you’re in search of real historical treasures, navigate your way to a hidden unnamed street ‘off the Krayenkamp’ near the beautiful St Michael’s Church in the Neustadt district. It’s the last 17th century courtyard remaining in the city and a well-preserved example of original (if crooked) architecture from the mid-1600s. In this way, Hamburg is the perfect city to get lost in – each district has a unique atmosphere and you’ll discover something unexpected around almost every corner. Driving from the classical architecture of the Binnenalster to the Speicherstadt or ‘warehouse district’ is another surprise. As a lass with a whole lot of Lancashire in her genes, I’m immediately struck by the similarities between this part of the city and the newly regenerated dock areas of Liverpool. The buildings have been restored thoughtfully – with original warehouse pulley systems still swinging from each roof – and there’s plenty to see and do here, with bars, museums and restaurants popping up like mushrooms in the old industrial quarter. For anyone with an interest in all things oceanrelated, the International Maritime Museum in the warehouse district is a must-see. Set over nine floors, the collection, collated by German businessman and enthusiast Peter Tamm and made up of more than 40,000 items, covers 3,000 years of maritime history – comprehensively. Our guide explains that taking the time to peruse the entire collection means packing

Doc Cheng’s restaurant

snacks for the journey – he recommends a full nine-hour experience to get the most from the museum. Thankfully for my feet, which are already feeling the effect of a day exploring the city, our tour is a whirlwind one, and soon we’re whisked away from tales of the high seas back to our hotel, accompanied by rumbling stomachs that are more than ready to dig into the culinary delights for which the establishment is famous. Dining at the Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten is a indulgent experience that your tastebuds will certainly thank you for. During our stay, we visited several of the restaurants and cafés under its more than 100 year-old roof and tried cuisines from around the world. Well worth a mention was the legendary Doc Cheng’s, an award-winning basement restaurant serving up European-Asian fusion cuisine against a vibrant Far Eastern and Western 1920s-themed backdrop. Although the food was delicious – unusual flavours married well with traditional classics – the best part of the experience (and indeed my entire trip) was the exquisitely balanced Tarragon Smash aperitif; gin muddled with passion fruit, lemon juice, bitter orange and a hint of tarragon. Fresh and fruity, the subtle hint of herb elevated this cocktail to something I would happily drink every day for the rest of my life – and I don’t even like gin usually. Of course, it would have been rude not to try its sister – the Basil Smash – which is very nearly just as good. The Haerlin Restaurant is where the majority of the culinary action is – although keen diners should be prepared to book months in advance to enjoy head chef Christoph Rüffers’ two-Michelin starred cuisine. We didn’t manage to sample the delights during our stay, but we were given a tour of the unique glass-walled dining room set up in the middle of the restaurant’s kitchen. Sit at the chef’s table and you can count on a fascinating dining experience for those who want to see the inner workings of a top-class kitchen – and grill the chef for details about his techniques. After dinner, if you’re the kind of person who likes a cigar with their nightcap, the Jahreszeiten Bar is the coolest place to visit. Set over two floors just off the hotel lobby, this

The Haerlin Restaurant is where the majority of the culinary action is

The Fairmont Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten


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Mad Men-esque bar oozes style and elegance, and is usually packed to the rafters with Hamburg’s elite – particularly at weekends. Of course, after a long day exploring all that the city has to offer, it’s essential to find a place to relax and unwind – and the Vier Jahreszeiten certainly has plenty of those. Whether you prefer to lounge in front of the fire with a cup of tea in the traditional Wohnhalle, enjoy a treatment at the newly-refurbished spa, curl up with a good book in the modern, Scandinavian-inspired ‘reading room’ relaxation area or catch some rays on the rooftop terrace, there really is something to suit all tastes – and that’s not even taking into consideration the plush, understated luxury of the bedrooms and suites. My favourite thing about the hotel is the seamless fashion in which the classic opulence of the original design has been integrated with the new, more modern refurbishment. Time and care has been taken to ensure no details are overlooked, and the results speak for themselves. Charming quirks, like the seat in the old-fashioned lifts, have been preserved to ensure that the hotel, like the city it calls home, remembers and protects the triumphs of its past as it focuses resolutely on its future. For a long weekend filled with history, good food and a lively atmosphere, all topped off with a little luxury, Hamburg is just the ticket. n

Single rooms from €220 (£175), double rooms from €270 (£215) per night; fairmont.com/vierjahreszeiten-hamburg

 LIVE LIKE A LOCAL  After a hard night of partying on the Reeperbahn, locals head to the Fischmarkt (yes, it’s exactly as it sounds) an historic auction hall at the Hamburg harbour. From 5am every Sunday the market is packed with a mix of locals, tourists and night owls who come to enjoy the live music, local beers and fresh produce straight off the boat. I’m told the pickled fish baguettes are a popular pre-emptive hangover cure. St Pauli Fischmarkt, Große Elbstraße 9 fischauktionshalle.com

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Sri Panwa

Life of

THAI From bustling cities to secluded beachside resorts, Gabrielle Lane explores different sides to one of the most popular south-east Asian destinations


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hailand has a reputation for being a destination you don’t have to plan for: according to almost any acquaintance you ask, life in southeast Asia involves eating mangoes by the side of the road, perusing street food markets and pitching up at beachfront cabins in little more than a kaftan. But I am simply not that kind of woman. And even after I visited for two weeks in December, I was not even close. If you’re going to visit Thailand, I think you should do it properly. With a selection of the finest properties and resorts in existence, Thailand lives up to its place on many a bucket list – juxtaposing local culture with high society; deserted beaches with glittering nightspots and serene spa treatments with decadent suppers. Far away from the throngs of youthful Full Moon revellers, the country is regaining its place as a luxury retreat. More than 4.2 million tourists visited during the first three months of 2015. Thailand is popular – but it can still be very exclusive, as I learn when I travel around the country, stopping off at bustling city hotels and idyllic beachside resorts along the way.

LEBUA AT STATE TOWER, BANGKOK The feeling of surrealism that I had when arriving in Bangkok at 11pm, is still as potent for me now as it was then. My friend and I were taken to our first hotel – Lebua at State Tower – by the hotel’s chauffeur-driven Mercedes. The night was warm but deceptively still; the roads uncharacteristically quiet as we peered out through tinted windows into the darkness, our journey sound-tracked by the saloon’s playlist of opera music. Within the hour we saw the city from 50-storeys high. Standing at 810 ft tall, Lebua occupies Bangkok’s second highest tower and its two-bedroom suites have colossal stone balconies on two sides. At night, the glistening lights of the surrounding skyscrapers bathe the Chao Phraya River in an eery bluish glow and the highway is transformed into a streak of gold. That first night we took so many pictures – never quite capturing how tall, how vast or how alive it felt – before we succumbed to tiredness, finding Bulgari toiletries in the en-suites as we readied ourselves to fall into

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Nakamanda Resort

Lebua at State Tower

higher and see the view – Lebua’s open-air rooftop bar Sirocco is quite literally on top of the world. Afterwards, completely invigorated by the cityscape, we jumped into a tuk-tuk to join the locals haggling at the Asiatique market downtown. But all too soon it was time to move on.

Two-bedroom luxury suite from $879 approx (£582) per night, lebua.com/statetower

ANANTARA PHUKET LAYAN, PHUKET A completely different side to Thailand can be found in the lush green countryside of the western coast of Phuket. Located in the Sirinat National Park, when we visited Anantara Phuket Layan Resort & Lebua at State Tower Spa our neighbours were baby elephants in an animal sanctuary on one side, and Beyoncé and Jay-Z on the other. It sums up the resort. Glamorous the enormous beds with the and restorative, this is a place of plumpest white pillows. lanterns and dark wood décor, Morning in Bangkok of drinks that change colour arrived with brilliant sunshine (butterfly pea flower turns warm and the rousing drum beats of water purple when you add lime) a street parade: step outside and of indulgent spa treatments. the hotel through a back exit I had a Thai massage here (opt for and you’re free in one of Asia’s medium strength) and the stresses most chaotic, schizophrenic and strains of London life were cities. The smell is of street food – stretched out of me. Afterwards, I lay spicy and citrusy – and to cross the by the outdoor spa pool for hours, checked roads you’ll dodge magenta taxis and on intermittently by the friendly staff. There are tuk-tuks. Reassuringly, you can always 47 villas at Anantara Phuket Layan, each with their own see the Lebua from the neighbouring streets and pool and decked outside space. As a result, the private beach retreat to its incongruously glossy rooms. and the adjacent pool are almost always deserted. Geared If you want to cool off, Lebua’s outdoor pool up as it is for promoting wellbeing, Anantara also offers the is on the 10th floor. As a guest of one of the suites, opportunity to kayak across the calm water of the bay and to refreshments are also available all day in the Tower Club undertake personal training sessions in its Muay-Thai boxing lounge which serves complimentary canapés, salads ring – almost always watched by the resort’s own family and petits fours. But supper at its Breeze restaurant of pet ducks. While most meals, including a breakfast of was by far the stand-out experience. It’s the world’s crumbles and compotes, eggs and the widest selection of fruit tallest alfresco restaurant (complete with tables set into imaginable, are served at all-day dining spot Sala Layan, it’s glass-walled recesses) and a private show. Course after at the resort’s authentic southeast Asian restaurant Dee Plee course of traditional Asian cuisine was bought to the that I’d recommended you visit to try regional specialities. table including crispy wasabi prawns and marinated My friend still talks about the Thai tapas topped with chilli duck, by a four-strong team of waiters in white robes. flakes, bay leaves and chutney, and the succulent lobster The accompanying China 20:20 cocktails were mixed served in a rich, spicy red curry sauce. in a chemistry set before our eyes – all billowing steam, bright colours and fresh flowers. I didn’t want to leave. In fact, the only thing that lured me away was the From £159 per room per night, opportunity to go for a glass of Champagne one floor phuket-layan.anantara.com


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and the pool area is lit entirely by candles. I think we grazed for three hours in total as plates of chargrilled seabass, fresh prawns and massaman-spiced beef dishes made their way to the table, interspersed with cocktails.

SLH offers rooms at Nakamanda Resort and Spa from £126 per night for a one-bedroom villa, slh.com/hotels/nakamanda-resort-and-spa

SRI PANWA, PHUKET

Anantara Phuket Layan

NAKAMANDA RESORT, KRABI For many people, the vision they have in their head of Thailand will be met by a stay at Nakamanda Resort & Spa, Krabi. A member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, the intimate, friendly hotel is set on a private beach where low tide occurs twice a day, giving you a view of the sweeping sandbank out to another deserted island. When the tide is in, your photos take on that turquoise, filter-free quality and Krabi becomes the perfect base from which to explore unspoilt and uninhabited islands. It is Hong Island that embodies the fantasy of unspoilt sugar-white beaches circa 1995, before the tourists arrived in abundance – and the best way to travel is by longboat, of course. Krabi is less commercialised than much of Thailand and as a result, stays here are peaceful, simple and uninterrupted – it pays to stock up on books and entertainment before you go and spend a few days enjoying fresh fruit purées, seafront swims and Balinese-inspired massages in the Naga Spa, with its fruit teas and custom oil blends. The 36 Sala Villas of the Nakamanda Resort are smart and low key, which will suit those looking for a more traditional experience, while two elevated private residences with sea views have dining rooms, a kitchen, a private pool and Jacuzzi, if you need more space. One of the most authentic experiences of our trip came courtesy of the Andaman Seafood Dinner that the resort hosts on Tuesdays and Fridays. Guests sit on cushions around sunken round tables in the Thai custom,

The swansong of our trip was a stay at Sri Panwa. Perched upon the southeastern tip of Phuket, it’s essentially a very exclusive private estate set in 40 acres. Being steep and leafy, it’s easiest to travel from the villas to its various amenities by tuk-tuk and in practice this makes Sri Panwa feel like a secret hideaway for an elusive billionaire. There are few places with more bells and whistles: the ocean-view pool villas have retractable glass walls offering elevated views of the gardens and Andaman Sea from the lounge area and master bedroom which also means you can jump directly from your bed into the infinity pool that wraps around the villa to three sides. Inside, there’s music and mood lighting, and a separate kitchen and dressing room, while outside there’s a Jacuzzi and two private sun decks – oh and you’ll have access to a butler too. Sri Panwa gives you a card when you arrive stating ‘welcome to your playground’ and it’s an accurate assurance. Baba Nest is an open-air, rooftop cocktail bar offering 360-degree views of the sea and islands; each night a lucky few perch on floor cushions in a boho-bourgeoisie fashion. Then there’s the laid-back home-style restaurant Baba Soul Food offering lots of naughty deep-fried Thai sharing plates and rich salty meat dishes. The pool club is a hive of activity, with delicious breakfasts (poached eggs, waffles with bacon and pancakes with syrup were our morning favourites) and water-mounted sun beds. But if you take a path down through the tropical foliage, you’ll end up at a discreet pool dotted with loungers, shrubs and butterflies. From here, a winding wooden walkway extends out onto a jetty into the ocean. Sri Panwa’s Cool Spa has picked up more than a few awards. Treatments such as gorgeous, coconut oilbased scrubs and massages are undertaken with outdoor showers, and there’s a rooftop infinity pool, ringed with more floor cushions to enjoy post-treatment. Fully relaxed, as our trip drew to a close, we witnessed an acrobatic fly-past from the neighbouring Thai air base. A memorable end to our holiday, it was one of the few things not arranged by our amazing hosts. n

From $800 (approx. £530) per night for a one-bedroom pool villa, sripanwa.com

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Property Listings See below for estate agents in your area

Arlington Residential 8 Wellington Road NW8 9SP 020 7722 3322 arlingtonresidential.co.uk

Hanover Residential 102 St John’s Wood Terrace NW8 6PL 020 7722 2223

Laurence Leigh 60 Queens Grove NW8 6ER 020 7483 0101 laurenceleigh.com

49 Welbeck Street W1G 9XN 020 8128 0675 hanover-residential.com

Aston Chase 69 / 71 Park Road NW1 6XU 020 7724 4724 astonchase.com

ian green residential 28 De Walden House Allitsen Road, NW8 020 7586 1000 iangreenresidential.com

Savills 7 Perrin’s Court NW3 1QS 020 7472 5000 15 St John’s Wood High Street NW8 7NG 020 3043 3600

Marsh & Parsons 35 Maida Vale W9 1TP 020 7368 4458 marshandparsons.co.uk

savills.co.uk

TK International 16-20 Heath Street NW3 6TE 020 7794 8700 t-k.co.uk

Parkheath 208 Haverstock Hill NW3 2AG 020 7431 1234

Globe Apartments 45 Chiltern Street London W1U 6LU 020 7034 3430 globeapt.com

Hamptons International 99 St John’s Wood Terrace NW8 6PL 020 7717 5319

Knight Frank 5-7 Wellington Place NW8 7PB 020 7586 2777

8a Canfield Gardens NW6 3BS 020 7625 4567

79-81 Heath Street NW3 6UG 020 7431 8686

192 West End Lane NW6 1SG 020 7794 7111

55 Baker Street W1U 8EW 020 3435 6440 knightfrank.co.uk

148 Kentish Town Road NW1 9QB 020 7485 0400 parkheath.com

21 Heath Street NW3 6TR 020 7717 5301 hamptons.co.uk

RUNWILD MEDIA GROUP

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If you would like to appear within the property pages of VANTAGE, contact Friday Dalrymple, property manager, on 020 7987 4320 or f.dalrymple@runwildgroup.co.uk


Vantage P R O P E RT Y

showcasing the

finest HOMES & PROPERTY from the best estate agents

Elegant & exclusive The latest prime properties

Image courtesy of Parkheath


The most exciting new development in the area for many years, a luxury gated apartment building at 50 St Edmund’s Terrace, London NW8, which sits proudly on the edge of Primrose Hill and Regent’s Park. The development consists of 36 highly specified apartments and 1 gatehouse, ranging from 1-4 bedrooms. Completion of the development is anticipated for early 2015 and you are able to acquire the apartments off plan now. GUIDE PRICE: £1,950,000 - £16,500,000

* All images displayed are computer generated

STUNNING LUXURY GATED DEVELOPMENT WITH 24 HOUR CONCIERGE, SECURE UNDERGROUND PARKING AND FULL STATE OF THE ART LEISURE FACILITIES INCLUDING 20M SWIMMING POOL AND STEAM ROOM

PRIMROSE HILL

Luxury development Savills New Homes 33 Margaret Street London W1G 0JD +44 (0) 20 7409 8756 newhomes@savills.com

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Blomfield road London W9

A much sought after and beautifully presented family home on a prestigious street in Little Venice, overlooking The Regent’s Canal. The house, which has been the subject of a major refurbishment programme, is maintained to an exceptional standard and has been interior designed throughout, creating a wonderful family home. The property offers excellent sized living accommodation, including a superb master bedroom suite with en suite dressing room and bathroom.

This property is situated between Warwick Avenue and Clifton Villas, with views over the Regent’s Canal. The nearest shops and amenities are on Clifton Road and the closest underground station is Warwick Avenue. Accommodation & Amenities Master bedroom with en suite dressing room and bathroom, 3 further bedrooms, family bathroom, reception room, dining room, kitchen/breakfast room, conservatory, garden. Approximately 308 sq m (3,315 sq ft). EPC: F.

Price on application

Freehold

St John’s Wood

joint Sole Agents

020 7586 2777


SALES | LETTINGS | NEW HOMES

6 9 – 7 1 PA R K R O A D | L O N D O N | N W 1 6 X U | T + 4 4 ( 0 ) 2 0 7 7 2 4 4 724 | A S T O NC H A S E .C OM


DEVOTED, TRUSTWORTHY, UNFAILINGLY LOYAL

The Labrador is often described as man’s best friend with good reason. The dog forges a strong bond with its owner and proves an intelligent, loyal and trustworthy companion, qualities that are shared by Aston Chase’s hard-working and highly knowledgeable team of property professionals. If you’re looking to buy, sell or let a residential property in Central or North West London, you’ll find we’re the perfect partner.


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ULSTER TERR ACE R E G E N T ’ S PA R K • LO N D O N N W 1

LOCATED WITHIN THE OUTER CIRCLE OF REGENT’S PARK A rare opportunity to acquire a first floor apartment comprising (261sq m/2,817sq ft) situated within this well regarded Nash Terrace. The apartment, which is presented in immaculate decorative condition throughout, features fourteen windows overlooking Regent’s Park and Park Square West Gardens and includes three intercommunicating reception rooms ideal for large scale entertaining. ACCOMMODATION & AMENITIES Principal Bedroom with En-Suite Bathroom / Second Bedroom with En-Suite Bathroom / Two Further Bedrooms / Family Bathroom / Three Reception Rooms / Fully Fitted Kitchen / Feature Light Well (Demised) / Allocated Underground Parking for Two Cars / Two Lock-Up Storage Rooms / Porterage / Entry Phone System / Lift Access / Key Fob to access Park Square West Private Gardens at £60 per annum

Ulster Terrace is located within walking distance to all the amenities of Marylebone High Street, as well as Great Portland Street and Baker Street Underground Stations (Hammersmith & City, Circle, Metropolitan, Jubilee and Bakerloo Lines).

LEASEHOLD 149 years GUIDE PRICE £8,500,000 SOLE AGENT

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Adamson Road NW3 ÂŁ1,500,000

A spacious garden apartment within a handsome semi-detached property positioned moments from Swiss Cottage Underground.

1330 sq ft/123 sq m 3 double bedrooms 25’ reception Private garden Share of freehold Contact Belsize Park Office 020 7431 1234

South Hampstead 020 7625 4567 nw6@parkheath.com

Belsize Park 020 7431 1234 nw3@parkheath.com

West Hampstead 020 7794 7111 192@parkheath.com

Kentish Town 020 7485 0400 kt@parkheath.com

Property Management 020 7722 6777 pm@parkheath.com

Head Office 020 7794 7111 headoffice@parkheath.com

www.parkheath.com


Belsize Park Gardens NW3 £4,315,000

An elegant and substantial garden maisonette within a stucco-fronted semi-detached villa on a prime Belsize road.

3000 sq ft/279 sq m 5 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms 30’ main reception 31’ kitchen/dining room Private garden Contact Belsize Park Office 020 7431 1234

South Hampstead 020 7625 4567 nw6@parkheath.com

Belsize Park 020 7431 1234 nw3@parkheath.com

West Hampstead 020 7794 7111 192@parkheath.com

Kentish Town 020 7485 0400 kt@parkheath.com

Property Management 020 7722 6777 pm@parkheath.com

Head Office 020 7794 7111 headoffice@parkheath.com

www.parkheath.com


THE FLAT FORMS PART OF 49 THE BISHOPS AVENUE, AN EXCEPTIONAL DEVELOPMENT OF JUST 14 FLATS SET IN GATED GROUNDS OF APPROXIMATELY 2 ACRES. THE BUILDING BENEFITS FROM 24HR CONCIERGE SECURITY AND COMMUNAL LEISURE FACILITIES THAT INCLUDE A 45 FT / 14M SWIMMING POOL, GYMNASIUM AND WELL-APPOINTED CHANGING ROOMS AND SHOWER ROOMS. MASTER BEDROOM SUITE CURRENTLY COMPRISING BEDROOM, DRESSING ROOM, BATHROOM AND TERRACE,

2 FURTHER BEDROOM SUITES, DOUBLE RECEPTION ROOM WITH TERRACE, KITCHEN/BREAKFAST ROOM, GUEST CLOAKROOM.

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KENWOOD LONDON N2 A SECOND FLOOR APARTMENT PROVIDING 2,702 SQ FT / 251 SQ M OF ACCOMMODATION WITH DIRECT LIFT ACCESS AND FEATURING AN IMPRESSIVE DOUBLE RECEPTION ROOM, 2 TERRACES, A LARGE STORE ROOM AND SECURE UNDERGROUND PARKING FOR 2 CARS.

990 YEAR LEASE

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JOINT AGENTS KNIGHT FRANK

GUIDE PRICE: £4,000,000

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Thorngate Road Maida Vale, W9 Stunning five bedroom Victorian house (2,181 sq ft / 203 sq m approx.) that has been completely refurbished to a high standard with a contemporary interior. The accommodation comprises of an impressive kitchen/ breakfast room with Corian and Cesar Stone quartz worktops, a beautiful double-aspect reception room with two fire places, five well-proportioned bedrooms (three with en-suites), private garden and roof terrace.

Sole Agent ÂŁ2,750,000 Freehold


Pavilion Apartments St John’s Wood, NW8 An exceptional seventh floor three bedroom three bathroom lateral apartment comprising 2,505 sq ft / 232 sq m, with stunning direct views into Lords Cricket Ground, situated in this prestigious modern purpose built block on St Johns Wood Road. The apartment provides spacious and contemporary accommodation including an impressive 33 ft double reception room, principal bedroom suite with walk in wardrobe and en-suite bathroom, stunning fully fitted kitchen/breakfast room with separate utility room, three good-sized balconies and two secure underground parking spaces.

Joint Sole Agent £5,499,950 Share of Freehold

West End Office

St Johns Wood Office

49 Welbeck Street, London, W1G 9XN

102 St John’s Wood Terrace, London NW8 6PL

enquiries@hanover-residential.com hanover-residential.com

info@hanover-residential.com hanover-residential.com

020 7486 9665

020 7722 2223


Regents Park

Chester Close North Regents Park, NW1 Situated within a private close opposite Regents Park, is this brand newly refurbished four bedroom house, with state of the art Crestron system, passenger lift (servicing the ground and first floors) and parking within the close available for two cars. The house offers air conditioning and underfloor heating throughout and has four bathrooms, three of which are en-suite. There is also a balcony located off the first floor bedroom.

Sole Agent ÂŁ3,000,000 Leasehold


North Gate St John’s Wood, NW8 A beautifully presented and substantial family apartment (3,384 sq ft / 314 sq m) offered in immaculate condition, with an impressive and flexible entertaining space featuring four generous reception rooms, four bedrooms, three bathrooms, kitchen/breakfast room, utility room and air conditioning. North Gate benefits from excellent 24 hour porterage, limited off street parking for two cars and communal gardens.

Joint Sole Agent £3,195,000 Leasehold

West End Office

St Johns Wood Office

49 Welbeck Street, London, W1G 9XN

102 St John’s Wood Terrace, London NW8 6PL

enquiries@hanover-residential.com hanover-residential.com

info@hanover-residential.com hanover-residential.com

020 7486 9665

020 7722 2223


West Heath Road Hampstead NW3 Prices £4,650,000 & £4,950,000 Share of Freehold | Sole Agent | EPC Ratings B A development of two luxury maisonettes with private garden, terraces and secure gated parking. Garden maisonette: 3,211 sq ft, four bedrooms each with en suite bathrooms, 46’ x 21’ reception room, Poggenpohl fitted kitchen/breakfast room, private west facing garden, secure gated parking. Upper maisonette: 2,971 sq ft, four bedrooms, four bathrooms, 28’ x 20’ reception room, Poggenpohl fitted kitchen/breakfast room, four roof terraces, private passenger lift to all floors, secure gated parking. Situated close to the open spaces of Hampstead Heath and Golders Hill Park, the development is located close to the shopping and transport facilities of Hampstead and the further amenities of the West End and City.

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RHP


Rosecroft Avenue Hampstead NW3 Price on Application Freehold | Sole Agent | EPC Rating E On the market for the first time in over forty years, a double fronted semi detached Edwardian freehold house of 4,471 sq ft presently arranged as two apartments. Set back from the road behind a driveway for one/two cars plus single garage and enjoying an elevated position on this renowned tree lined ‘Crofts’ road. The property can be reinstated to a single family house, to provide six bedrooms, four/five bathrooms, three reception rooms and a kitchen/breakfast room. In addition it should be possible to create a large lower ground floor level to provide further space subject to the usual planning consents. To the rear is a secluded lawned garden of approximately 65’ in depth.

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Out in front As Laurence Leigh Residential opens a new office in St John’s Wood, director Laurence Leigh tells us what this means for the brand and the growing Sales and Lettings departments


property

F

ounded in 2007, independent estate agency Laurence Leigh Residential has been flying under the radar for the last eight years, with an office discreetly positioned above the shops on St John’s Wood High Street. “My codirector Elias Raymond and I decided that following our successful past few years, it was the right time for us to put a name above a shop. It was a natural progression; the next step in the evolution of the Laurence Leigh Residential brand.” With the finishing touches currently being made to the new office at 60 Queens Grove, NW8, the directors at Laurence Leigh Residential were keen to “avoid the main drag” on St John’s Wood High Street. Having spent two years looking for the right location, they’re very excited about the company’s new site. “Queens Grove is well positioned on the East side of St John’s Wood. Being a boutique agency, the location fits in well with our brand which offers a more bespoke and personal service. When I tell the local residents where it is, they all seem to know the spot as it is situated next door to the very well-known St John’s Wood Orthodontic Clinic. We are delighted that our clients can now walk past the window and see us, and even more importantly, we can see our clients. Having a shop front presence also allows us to be more in touch with the local community.” As a company, we’ve always specialised in the sales, acquisitions and

lettings of some of the most exclusive and desirable properties in and around North-West and Central London, and our new office will allow for an expansion of these departments as we look forward to more team members to join our growing success. The lettings department has seen particularly strong growth over the last few months, with the “rise of the rental classes” in the face of the impending uncertainty that comes with the general election. When asked if landlords are increasing their rents to match the soaring market, Robert Sterling, the lettings department manager at Laurence Leigh Residential, is reassuring. “You can’t just hike up the rents overnight. It’s all about supply and demand; if more people want to rent then naturally the prices will increase. As for our sales department, we’ve sold a number of properties off market lately which is where we tend to do a lot of business, but as always, we could definitely do with higher stock levels to help satisfy our database of buyers!” Either way, whatever the election will bring, the main thing in this business, says Laurence, is listening to people, being personable and being honest. “You also have to have a very clear and up to date understanding of our ever changing and challenging property market, and be able to advise people accordingly. The exciting thing about this business is that no two transactions are the same. You almost have to be like a chameleon and be able to react to each individual situation, because they are all different. Selling and renting

property is a process. For most people it concerns the most important and usually biggest asset they have. We understand this and we genuinely care. We pride ourselves on achieving a very good balance between acting for our clients, and at the same time, building ongoing relationships with all of our purchasers and tenants. With most transactions, we are presented with unique challenges and we always work hard to find a successful solution. We understand that for all parties, dealing with their own property is an emotional process, so listening to everyone’s side and then trying to navigate the best path to resolving any issue is essential to getting the transaction across the finishing line.” With a new visual presence in St John’s Wood, they have never been in a better position to advise the local community on what makes the area such a special one in which to live and work. “St John’s Wood has always been a very sought after area. Obviously being very close to central London, for both work and social reasons, it is an attractive place for people to live if they want to be at the heart of all that London has to offer. Additionally, there are a number of very good schools in the area and this too has attracted people from all parts of the globe. London continues to be seen as one of the financial capitals of the world, and St John’s Wood and the surrounding areas continue to enjoy the benefits of this.” n

60 Queens Grove, NW8 6ER laurenceleigh.com; 020 7483 0101

Photography by Sarel Jansen

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www.laurenceleigh.com / 020 7483 0101


Hamilton Gardens, St Johns Wood, NW8 An immaculately presented Victorian house (2,070 sq ft/192 sq m) having undergone a complete programme of redevelopment and now offering a striking contemporary interior for modern day living. The house, which was architecturally designed by Threefold Architects, boasts a wonderful open planned living kitchen space on the ground floor with Dinesen oak flooring and concertina doors opening to a south facing patio garden. Hamilton Gardens is discreetly located approximately half a mile from The American School London, St John’s Wood High Street, and St John’s Wood Underground Station (Jubilee Line).

Freehold Asking Price £3,295,000

Sole Agent


LITTLE VENICE W9


AN IMMACULATE, WHITE STUCCO PERIOD HOUSE, COMPRISING 4,887 SQUARE FEET (454 SQUARE METRES). The property has been meticulously refurbished in recent years and the highest quality materials have been used to create this bright and spacious family residence. Light and exceptional volume are plentiful throughout the house and perfectly complement the original features, such as high ceilings, cornicing and sash windows. ACCOMMODATION Entrance Hall • Guest WC • Double Reception Room • Kitchen/Breakfast Room • TV Area • Double Reception Room • Study • Master Bedroom with En Suite • Bath and Shower Room with Dressing Area • Bedroom Two • Bedroom Three • Family Bathroom • Bedroom Four with En Suite Shower Room • Bedroom Five with En Suite Shower Room • Bedroom Six/Gym • Shower Room • South Facing Rear Patio Garden • Utility Room • Kitchenette • Terrace • Storage Vaults • Alarm System

PRICE ON APPLICATION

FREEHOLD

SOLE AGENT


Bermuda’s Luxury Real Estate Specialist Whether you are seeking a beach, boating or golf estate, historic home, private island or quality condominium, Sinclair Realty offers the finest cache of properties in Tucker’s Town and island-wide. As Bermuda’s exclusive affiliate of Christie’s International Real Estate, we look forward to providing you with the depth of expertise and excellence that is characteristic of everything Christie’s does.

Tel +1 441 296 0278 | estates@logic.bm | www.sinclairrealty.com

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WHY BUY BERMUDA? Geographic Convenience • London – less than 7 hours • New York – 2 hours • Toronto – 2.5 hours

Quality of Life • Britain’s oldest self-governing overseas territory • International financial centre • One of the world’s highest standards of living • Subtropical climate • Pink sand beaches & turquoise waters • Miles of world-class golf • No personal or corporate income tax or capital gains tax

Tel +1 441 296 0278 | estates@logic.bm | www.sinclairrealty.com

Fr / 2/6/15 11:18


GIVE YOUR FLAT A NEW LEASE OF LIFE FOR 2015 If you have owned your flat for 2 years or more you have the right to a 90 year lease extension, and the longer you leave it before you extend, the more it will cost you.

myleasehold have been helping residential leaseholders to extend their leases since 2004.

For more information and for a free consultation, call us on 020 7034 3435, e-mail vantage@myleasehold.co.uk or visit our website myleasehold.co.uk and use our FREE lease extension calculator.

45 Chiltern Street London W1U 6LU

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09/02/2015 14:07


property

Expanding

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Marsh & Parsons adds to its north-west London presence with a new Queen’s Park office

ith the prospect of bright, sunny days just around the corner, Marsh & Parsons is celebrating the approaching season by opening a new office in Queen’s Park this month. Adding to its existing network of 23 offices, this latest addition will be the second branch to be unveiled already this year, and with two more in the pipeline for 2015, the agency’s expansion plans show no sign of slowing down. The Salusbury Road office will act to strengthen the company’s already strong presence in Little Venice and North Kensington, creating a powerful and wide-reaching network in north-west London. Peter Rollings, Chief Executive at Marsh & Parsons, commented: “We are delighted to be opening in Queen’s Park, an area which is experiencing growing demand from people moving north-west from central London. The properties in the area perfectly fit our brand, and the additional branch will complement our existing offices, where we already have a strong database of buyers, sellers, landlords and tenants.” Rather than throw a party, Marsh & Parsons has

decided to mark the launch of the new office by offering homeowners in the area a special zero per cent sales fee for the first three months. In effect, this means that local residents stand to save a substantial amount of money when they sell their property. The offer will be valid for the first 100 sellers who instruct Marsh & Parsons and the property must be placed under offer within three months of the office opening. In order to qualify, properties must be located within a specific map boundary, details of which can be found on the Marsh & Parsons website. It might sound too good to be true, but this formula has been rolled out at other Marsh & Parsons offices before and achieved great success. The team hope it will be similarly popular in Queen’s Park and believe the strategy will help build a strong client database. It also gives anyone planning on selling their property through this new branch a great opportunity to take advantage of. Forget cake and balloons – this limited-time offer is a guaranteed way to put a spring in your step. n

91 Salusbury Road, NW6, 020 7624 4513, marshandparsons.co.uk

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Bryanston Court W1 £5,500,000 Situated within one of Marylebone’s most prestigious portered mansion blocks, this opulent apartment has undergone lavish refurbishment and has garaging and a maids flat. Share of Freehold. EPC=C

Marylebone: 020 7935 1775 sales.mar@marshandparsons.co.uk


Wilmot Place NW1 ÂŁ1,250,000 Located on a quiet residential street, this stunning two-bedroom penthouse with a balcony has been newly refurbished to an exceptional standard with style and elegance. Leasehold. EPC=B

Camden: 020 7244 2200 sales.cam@marshandparsons.co.uk


St Johns Wood Road, NW8 ÂŁ920,000 Situated within a beautiful period building, this exceptional two-bedroom apartment boasts a spacious reception room, plenty of natural light and charming period features. Leasehold. EPC=D

Little Venice: 020 7993 3050 sales.lve@marshandparsons.co.uk


Immaculate plot with south-facing patio Matching people and property in London for 150 years.



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