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16 regulars


10. Editor’s letter

24. Art news

12. Five minutes with... Jewellery designer Shaun Leane on fashion and his friendship with the late Alexander McQueen 14. Couture culture

25. Prize lots

16. Spotlight: Haute heroes A round-up of three new tomes celebrating influential men in the world of couture 20. Profile: Bruce Russell Hannah Lemon finds out just why “every bride needs a Bruce”

26. Interview: Meryl Streep The star of The Post discusses her life at home and in Hollywood

collection 32. Jewellery news 33. Objects of desire Top picks of precious vessels 34. Carbon copy Dissecting the pros and cons of synthetic diamonds 40. Where watches are made Richard Brown goes behind the scenes at Blancpain


65. Style him 66. Fine and dandy Mark Francis Vandelli shares his sartorial secrets

85. Travel news 86. Suite dreams: Blakes London

70. Beauty news 88. City break: Milan 71. Gym review: Frame


90. Weird and wonderful Be surprised and delighted by Japan’s diverse culture

73. Interiors news

high life

96. Back in time Original fashion influencer Beau Brummell

76. Food & drink news


77. Restaurant review: The Wigmore

97. Property news

78. Edible ensembles A new book from Rizzoli turns food into fashion 82. Fresh perspective Entrepreneur Camilla Fayed on clean-eating

44. Style her 48. Fashion shoot


58. Material world Can luxury be grown in labs, asks Lauren Romano



HUGO BOSS UK LTD. Phone +44 (0)20 7554 5700

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S18SR_BBW-RHP_BBC013xBBW003.indd 1

14.02.18 14:15


From the MARCH 2018

Editor Hannah Lemon


Associate Editor Camilla Apcar


Assistant Editors Marianne Dick Ellen Millard Contributing Editor Lauren Romano



A trio of new tomes has been released celebrating the trajectory of three significant male leads in the world of couture: Paolo Roversi, Olivier Theyskens and Loris Azzaro WORDS: MARIANNE DICK

“I always say that the DESIGNER is the COMPOSER of the music, and the PHOTOGRAPHER plays the instrument”

Paolo Roversi

Dior Images: Paolo Roversi, by Paolo Roversi, text by Emanuele Coccia. Published 27 February by Rizzoli, £95,

A new publication from Rizzoli documents the Italian photographer’s partnership with Dior, and includes handwritten notes from the man himself to models, magazine editors and the house’s creative directors through the years. All three volumes contain his rarely seen interpretations of the fashion house’s cutting-edge creations. Roversi is known for his mastery of the labour intensive Polaroid process. It enabled him to move away from the realism of snapping silhouettes and strip down a tableau to its essence – a technique he describes as capturing “a kind of absence”.

– Paolo Roversi


Jewellery Editor Mhairi Graham Watch Editor Richard Brown Art Editor Laddawan Juhong Production Manager Alice Ford Production Jamie Steele Hugo Wheatley General Manager Fiona Smith Executive Director Sophie Roberts Commercial Director Andrew Turner Managing Director Eren Ellwood

Proudly published by


6th Floor, One Canada Square, Canary Wharf, London, E14 5AX 020 7987 4320

Runwild Media Ltd. cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited submissions, manuscripts and photographs. While every care is taken, prices and details are subject to change and Runwild Media Ltd. takes no responsibility for omissions or errors. We reserve the right to publish and edit any letters. All rights reserved.

“Get all the beauty of a sparkly diamond without the cost to the environment” - Alan Frampton, Cred Jewellery (p.34)

Fashion changes as frequently as the seasons, and sometimes beyond recognition. Designers, photographers and models work their magic to conjure up new trends before you can even say ‘London Fashion Week’. This month, we turn the pages of a selection of beautiful new books that celebrate three such influential talents who single-handedly shaped the evolution of couture (p.16). It’s comforting to know that there’s also a new generation shaking up the industry. Scientists have been diligently rattling test tubes to grow new materials that will reduce the impact consumers have on the globe (p.58). So, too, for jewellery: exciting advances in technology have moved diamonds from mines to laboratories (p.34). But just as you think style has turned serious, we turn to socialite Mark Francis Vandelli for some dapper dressing tips (p.66). His cardinal rule? “Never overdo it.”

Hannah Lemon Editor

On the


the mayfair magazine: A delicate confection of pale gray lace and pale pink roses cascading from waist to floor by Pierre Balmain, 1953 image ©Gleb Derujinsky (P.14); marylebone & fitzrovia magazine: Jacket, £595; trousers; £195; jumper, £295; all Gieves & Hawkes, 1 Savile Row, W1S, (P.65)

Also published by

R u n w i ld M ed i a G r o u p A website. A mindset. A lifestyle.

Members of the Professional Publishers Association


@t hemay fa i rmaga z i n e @ lu x u r y lo n d o n o ffi c i al

@ may fa i rmaga z i n e @t heo ffi c i alll


From the MARCH 2018

Editor Hannah Lemon


Associate Editor Camilla Apcar


Assistant Editors Marianne Dick Ellen Millard Contributing Editor Lauren Romano



A trio of new tomes has been released celebrating the trajectory of three significant male leads in the world of couture: Paolo Roversi, Olivier Theyskens and Loris Azzaro WORDS: MARIANNE DICK

“I always say that the DESIGNER is the COMPOSER of the music, and the PHOTOGRAPHER plays the instrument”

Paolo Roversi

Dior Images: Paolo Roversi, by Paolo Roversi, text by Emanuele Coccia. Published 27 February by Rizzoli, £95,

A new publication from Rizzoli documents the Italian photographer’s partnership with Dior, and includes handwritten notes from the man himself to models, magazine editors and the house’s creative directors through the years. All three volumes contain his rarely seen interpretations of the fashion house’s cutting-edge creations. Roversi is known for his mastery of the labour intensive Polaroid process. It enabled him to move away from the realism of snapping silhouettes and strip down a tableau to its essence – a technique he describes as capturing “a kind of absence”.

– Paolo Roversi


Jewellery Editor Mhairi Graham Watch Editor Richard Brown Art Editor Laddawan Juhong Production Manager Alice Ford Production Jamie Steele Hugo Wheatley General Manager Fiona Smith Executive Director Sophie Roberts Commercial Director Andrew Turner Managing Director Eren Ellwood

Proudly published by


6th Floor, One Canada Square, Canary Wharf, London, E14 5AX 020 7987 4320

Runwild Media Ltd. cannot accept responsibility for unsolicited submissions, manuscripts and photographs. While every care is taken, prices and details are subject to change and Runwild Media Ltd. takes no responsibility for omissions or errors. We reserve the right to publish and edit any letters. All rights reserved.

“Get all the beauty of a sparkly diamond without the cost to the environment” - Alan Frampton, Cred Jewellery (p.34)

Fashion changes as frequently as the seasons, and sometimes beyond recognition. Designers, photographers and models work their magic to conjure up new trends before you can even say ‘London Fashion Week’. This month, we turn the pages of a selection of beautiful new books that celebrate three such influential talents who single-handedly shaped the evolution of couture (p.16). It’s comforting to know, too, that there’s a new generation shaking up the industry. Scientists have been diligently rattling test tubes to grow new materials that will reduce the impact consumers have on the globe (p.58). So, too, for jewellery: exciting advances in technology have moved diamonds from mines to laboratories (p.34). But just as you think style has turned serious, we turn to socialite Mark Francis Vandelli for some dapper dressing tips (p.66). His cardinal rule? “Never overdo it.”

Hannah Lemon Editor

On the


the mayfair magazine: A delicate confection of pale gray lace and pale pink roses cascading from waist to floor by Pierre Balmain, 1953 image ©Gleb Derujinsky (P.14); marylebone & fitzrovia magazine: Jacket, £595; trousers; £195; jumper, £295; all Gieves & Hawkes, 1 Savile Row, W1S, (P.65)

Also published by

R u n w i ld M ed i a G r o u p A website. A mindset. A lifestyle.

Members of the Professional Publishers Association


@t hemay fa i rmaga z i n e @ lu x u r y lo n d o n o ffi c i al

@ may fa i rmaga z i n e @t heo ffi c i alll

28852 Creed Love In White_A4_MayfairMag.indd 1

14/02/2018 10:12


In search of something creative, when I was 15 I left my highly academic school to do a foundation course in jewellery design and manufacture.

Hatton Garden was such a hub of energy leather jackets and boots, and Thom Browne suits because they fit me perfectly.

when I started my apprenticeship there. I was just turning 16, and worked for stores such as Garrard, Asprey and Mappin & Webb.

I’ve been looking for a rucksack forever. They

My favourite thing to design is earrings. Not to accessorise, but to frame the face. Ultimately, jewellery should complement you, not own you.

I worked with Alexander McQueen for nearly 20 years. We met when we were 22 and were the best of friends until the day he died. He approached me in 1994 to work on his show. By day I would be making tiaras, by night I’d be making skeleton corsets in aluminium or silver.

I have two loves in menswear. McQueen,

five minutes with...

Shaun Leane The jewellery designer reflects on starting out in Hatton Garden and his friendship with Alexander McQueen as told to: camilla apcar

especially their casual Clockwise from main image: shaun leane, image credit: NICKY EMMERSON; Coiled Corset by Shaun Leane for Alexander McQueen, image credit: Chris Moore; charbonnel et walker truffles; colony grill at the beaumont; asprey on bond street

normally don’t look good on me. In a moment of serendipity I went to Smythson to buy a wallet and there were some beautiful navy blue deerskin rucksacks. I can fit everything in it and I don’t look like a Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle.

If my house caught fire, the first thing I would grab is my cat, Jasmine, who is 11. She’s a delicate little Burmese and can’t run fast.

I couldn’t live without my headphones and my music. They help me through the day. I love all sorts, except German techno. At the moment I’m into Aretha Franklin.

Good chocolate is my guilty pleasure. I have to walk past Charbonnel et Walker quickly, otherwise I spend an absolute fortune. They do amazing salted caramel truffles.

My favourite restaurant in Mayfair is The Beaumont’s Colony Grill Room. I go there all the time for the Cajun swordfish or New York shrimp cocktail. The ice cream sundaes are especially fun for business meetings – you can see everybody turning into children again.






image CREDIT: Johan Persson

A chance meeting, passion, romance and tragedy: Carey Mulligan wows in Dennis Kelly’s new one-woman play, Girls & Boys.


Bear witness to Dame Vivienne Westwood’s journey from Derbyshire grammar school girl to climate change activist in a new film about the fiery fashionista’s life and career.

cover image ©Patrick Demarchelier/ Art+Commerce

Westwood: Punk, Icon, Activist is in selected cinemas from 23 March

royal dress



forget me not

Mother’s Day is almost upon us (put 11 March in your diary), so now’s the time to pre-order florist Hayford & Rhodes’ gift set: Prestat truffles, Warner Edwards rhubarb gin and a Miller Harris candle presented on a whimsical bed of flora and fauna. £150, The Eden Gift Set,


Fancy a Louis XV heel? Or a Marie Antoinette wig? Read Fashion and Versailles to find out how the French palace has moulded modern style. £50, published by Flammarion,


Until 17 March, Royal Court Theatre, SW1W,


picnic party Buy tickets now for St James’s Conservation Trust’s Summer Garden Party: an evening of food, fashion and flair. From £50, 6-9pm, 28 June, St James’s Square,



Michelin-starred restaurants and local eateries come together for the Marylebone Food Festival. Expect al fresco dining, tasting menus and everything in-between. 8-18 March,















Right: Monaco Dress, S/S 1959 Haute Couture collection, Longue line by Yves Saint Laurent, image ©Paolo Roversi; Below: Junon dress, A/W 1949 Haute Couture collection , Milieu du SiÈcle line by Christian Dior, Stylist Grace Coddington, image ©Paolo Roversi

Haute heroes A trio of new tomes has been released celebrating the trajectory of three significant male leads in the world of couture: Paolo Roversi, Olivier Theyskens and Loris Azzaro w o rd s : M a r i a n n e d i c k

Paolo Roversi

Dior Images: Paolo Roversi, by Paolo Roversi, text by Emanuele Coccia. Published 27 February by Rizzoli, £95,

A new publication from Rizzoli documents the Italian photographer’s partnership with Dior, and includes handwritten notes from the man himself to models, magazine editors and the house’s creative directors through the years. All three volumes contain his rarely seen interpretations of the fashion house’s cutting-edge creations. Roversi is known for his mastery of the labour intensive Polaroid process. It enabled him to move away from the realism of snapping silhouettes and strip down a tableau to its essence – a technique he describes as capturing “a kind of absence”.

spotlight Kimoja ensemble, S/S 1997 Haute Couture collection by John Galliano, W Magazine, April 1997, image ©Paolo Roversi

“I always say that the designer is the composer of the music, and the photographer plays the instrument” – Paolo Roversi


“I am motivated by what is accessible, as I am by the idea that what is inaccessible is a dream” – Olivier Theyskens

Rochas by Olivier Theyskens, S/S05, image credit: Diego Uchitel

Olivier Theyskens To coincide with an exhibition on the Beligum-born fashion designer at the ModeMuseum (MoMu) in Antwerp, She Walks in Beauty documents the purity of Theyskens’ approach, which has occasionally been overshadowed by the industry’s ruthless approach to commerce. Two decades in fashion has seen Theyskens ousted from his contract as creative director at Nina Ricci in 2009 – to which Anna Wintour voiced her disgust in an issue of American Vogue – before launching his own label. He continues to chamption a romantic and often gothic aesthetic, supported by international icons such as Stella Tennant, Madonna and Daphne Guinness.

Olivier Theyskens: She Walks in Beauty, by Kaat Debo, Elisa De Wyngaert, Vanessa Friedman, Lydia Kamitsis and Wim Mertens. Published by Rizzoli Electa, £45,


Loris Azzaro The late couturier founded his fashion house in Paris in 1967, and his sparkling, disco-ready designs provided high-octane dresses for the heady Studio 54 era. His inspiration began with his wife and muse, Michelle Azzaro, whom he would envisage wearing his pieces; before his figure-hugging silhouettes and daring cut-outs graced the likes of Sophia Loren, Raquel Welch and Nicole Kidman. As well as interviews with the people who knew the designer best, Azzaro: Fifty Years of Glitter includes an indulgent selection of images by photographers, such as Helmut Newton and Guy Bourdin.

Azzaro: Fifty Years of Glitter, by Serge Gleizes. Published 27 February by Abrams, ÂŁ40,

image ŠFilipe Da Rocha


The greatest showman on earth You know when you’re onto a winner when your event planner breeds butterflies just for a wedding ceremony. Bruce Russell does nothing by halves words: Hannah Lemon


very bride needs a Bruce,” reads one testimonial about the event and wedding planning company By Bruce Russell. While I agree, I’d like to amend that to “everybody needs a Bruce”. When we meet at The Ritz London’s decadent private dining room in the William Kent House, just five minutes of his soothing Canadian tones has me at ease. The grand table running the length of the room is laden with bluebells in an eclectic selection of glass vases and jars set out by florist Kitten Grayson, highlighting the flecks of cerulean in the intricate Italian Renaissance paintings on the ceiling. Wispy curls of ink calligraphy from Lamplighter London act as place names, while the ornate Whitehouse Crockery adds the final touch – and to think this is just for a photo shoot. Russell enters the room and moves one table an inch to the left. “I told you he’d notice,” remarks Maddie Barton, with a knowing smile. His second-in-command knows exactly what an exemplary perfectionist he is. Russell’s attention to detail has been honed through 15 years in hospitality. Working within sales, marketing, PR and events for various hotel groups in Canada, New York and London, it embedded a comprehensive understanding not only of what people expect in the luxury industry but also of complicated logistics.

Seven years on from starting his own company, Russell has organised every type of wedding, intimate dinner and private party. “My first wedding was festival-themed with a marquee in the back garden,” he says. “It was for a friend of a friend, at her parents’ house. I was thrown into it and learnt a lot.” Nuptial highlights since then are many, he tells me. “It’s about creating something personal for every couple. I never want anyone to look at an image of a wedding and say, ‘that’s a Bruce Russell wedding’. It’s not about that, it’s about the couple.” Most couples who get engaged spend about one to two years planning. For Russell it can be as little as three months, even if it’s a celebration in his favoured destination, Marrakech. But that doesn’t put a limit on what he can conjure out of his magician’s hat: a sushi ice bar; Roman guards with bespoke outfits; fire throwers; or local Moroccan dancers. His brides wear dresses by Bruce Oldfield,



Elie Saab and Peter Langner. Cakes are baked by GC Couture and flowers arranged by Nikki Tibbles. Russell’s little black events book is bulging with every high-profile, high-end contact you could imagine. Has he gone so far as having doves fly in? “Live animals are never a good idea,” laughs Russell. “Although we did orchestrate the release of white butterflies. They had to be bred for the event and then there was the date, timing and heat to think about. It’s difficult when these little things aren’t necessarily under your control. Like working with children – they might not walk down the aisle as slow as you want them to, they might just run.” Russell’s inspiration rarely comes from wedding magazines. “I look at everything from an interiors perspective,” he explains. “I went to Maison&Objet in Paris this year and everything was velvet and fringe. I then thought, ‘how can I incorporate that?’ It’s about what the guests can touch, feel, look at and smell.” Most of all, it’s theatrical. “It’s like directing. I’m a theatre producer in that sense, bringing actors and pieces together.”

“It’s like directing. I’m a theatre producer in that sense, bringing actors and pieces together”

Russell walked down the aisle for his own ceremony almost seven years ago. A simple get-together for around 90 of his nearest and dearest in a stately home called Botleys Mansion in Chertsey, Surrey. “It was like we were entertaining at home. It was a very sunny June afternoon. Everyone was outside enjoying the countryside, Pimm’s and canapés. Then we went inside for dinner, dancing and a photo booth. We had family stay over at the venue where we drank port and ate cheese until three o’clock. It was a proper English house party.” An expensive house party? I venture. “Yes, but worth every penny.” Home for Russell and his husband is Rowledge, a little village also in Surrey, where he spends time cooking and catching up on various Netflix crime series. “We live very close to the Four Seasons Hotel Hampshire, so that’s where I go to swim and clear my head.” Although there hardly seems to be a moment in the day for him to relax. Another project in the pipeline is a reality TV show due to air in the spring on RTÉ2, an Irish entertainment channel. The show is about two event planners (hint: one of them is Russell), who present a couple with two weddings each: one at home and the other abroad. The couple have to choose which wedding to go with. My guess is that Russell comes out on top. One question I’m dying to ask, inevitably, is how would he plan Prince Harry’s upcoming nuptials? “As soon as they got engaged my first reaction was a destination wedding,” says Russell. “I’m sure they have to follow protocol, but you can still make it very personal. The royal family has come a long way since Charles and Diana’s wedding.” It should really be a Bruce Russell wedding in Morocco, I offer. “Yes it should,” Russell replies. “I have a Marrakech wedding in May so we could just tag it on at the end of that.”


At BADA 2018, a showcase of objects celebrating the antique dealers’ association’s centenary will be displayed inside living spaces designed by Joanna Wood and Paolo Moschino. 14-20 March, Duke of York Square, SW3,

Rosie Sanders, Sue’s Rose, 2017, image Courtesy of Jonathan Cooper, ©Rosie Sanders

coming into bloom



A visit to Hauser & Wirth over the next couple of months comes up trumps, with two simultaneous exhibitions: one offering a contemporary take on still life; the other, mixed media collages that build on vintage photographs. Matthew Day Jackson: Still Life and the Reclining Nude; Lorna Simpson: Unanswerable, both 1 March – 28 April, 23 Savile Row, W1S,

Double booked Have I seen you before?

The first posthumous exhibition of Elaine Sturtevant’s work celebrates her as a master of making reproductions with a twist.

clockwise from top left: Lorna Simpson, Ice 4, 2017, image credit: James Wang, ©Lorna Simpson, courtesy of the artist and Hauser & Wirth; Matthew Day Jackson, Bouquet of Flowers in a Vase, 2017; Flowers In a Wooden Vessel, 2017, both ©Matthew Day Jackson, Courtesy of the artist and Hauser & Wirth; Gerald Laing, Lincoln Convertible, 1964, image ©The Estate of Gerald Laing; Óscar DOMINGUEZ, Paysage cosmique, 1938-1939, image Courtesy of Olivier Malingue Gallery; Sturtevant, Lichtenstein Girl with Hair Ribbon, 1966-1967, image credit: Max, Courtesy of Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac, ©Estate Sturtevant, Paris

Connect the dots

Scrutinise consumerism, mass media, the Ben-Day newspaper printing dot – and the Pop art it inspired.

Sturtevant: Vice Versa, 23 February – 31 March, Galerie Thaddaeus Ropac, 37 Dover Street, W1S,

Source and Stimulus: Polke, Lichtenstein, Laing, 6 March – 21 April, Lévy Gorvy, 22 Old Bond Street, W1S,

rooted interest For those whose appreciation of Surrealism goes beyond Salvador Dalí and misshapen clocks, a show that delves deep into the movement’s origins, agenda and cultural impact is always welcome news. Surrealism: A Conversation, 2 March – 12 May, Olivier Malingue, 143 New Bond Street, W1S,



£297,000 Est i m at e : £ 8 0 , 0 0 0 - £ 1 0 0 , 0 0 0

‘The Victory Jack’ from HMS Victory, the Battle of Trafalgar

Sold: ‘The Victory Jack’ from HMS Victory, The Battle of Trafalgar, c.1801-1805, c.860 x 920mm, 17 January, Sotheby’s, Image courtesy of Sotheby’s,

“The flag has a wonderful story. It was used as part of the great ceremonial funeral of Nelson after his death at the battle. Pieces of it were broken up and kept by the loyal sailors who had lost their very, very deeply loved commander.” – Dr Gabriel Heaton, Specialist for books and manuscripts at Sotheby’s London


lots Upcoming Estimate : £30, 000 - £50,000

The Dressing Room, Dame Laura Knight


Lithuanian-born Manya Igel began life in London as a refugee of the Second World War. By the 80s she had become a well-known art dealer, rubbing shoulders with artists such as Dame Laura Knight, the first female Royal Academician – one of whose works is coming up for sale from Igel’s collection at Bonhams. Paintings from the collection of the late Manya Igel, 13 March,

Est i m at e : £ 1 2 , 0 0 0 , 0 0 0 - £ 1 8 , 0 0 0 , 0 0 0

Sleeping Nude, Pablo Picasso, 1932

Upcoming: Dame Laura Knight, The Dressing Room, oil on canvas, 64 x 76cm, Image ©Bonhams,; Pablo Picasso, Sleeping Nude, 1932, Oil and charcoal on canvas, 130.2 x 161.9cm, Image courtesy of Phillips,

The evening sale on 20 March at Phillips is predicted to be a record-breaker for the auction house, with a range of lots that includes a sculpture by Henri Matisse, a piece by Mark Bradford from the collection of tennis star John McEnroe and this portrait of Picasso’s mistress and muse, Marie-Thérèse Walter. The drawing stayed in the artist’s own collection until he died. It was produced in 1932 – a prolific year when Picasso produced some of his best loved work, and which the Tate Modern will put in the spotlight in an exhibition that opens on the same day as the sale. 20th Century & Contemporary art evening sale, 8 March,



Meryl interview


In an era when women’s rights are at the forefront of every industry, respected actors like Meryl Streep have an increasingly important role to play – both on the silver screen and off words: KAREN ANNE OVERTON


eryl Streep has a long and distinguished history playing remarkable women. From Julia Child in Julie & Julia to Margaret Thatcher in The Iron Lady, Streep displays an unrelenting passion for her craft in one compelling performance after another. According to the woman in question however, opportunities for such roles have come about partly by chance. “I’ve been fortunate to have been at the right place at the right time,” Streep, 68, begins, with typical understatement. “Early in my career I had the chance to play many pioneering women’s roles at a moment in Hollywood when those films were very popular and I’ve been able to carry that on” – she was celebrated for her portrayal of a Polish refugee in Sophie’s Choice and author Isak Dinesen in Out of Africa. Streep’s modesty, regal bearing and – at times – foreboding presence have made her one of the greatest proponents of female empowerment on the silver screen: a statement that can be underpinned by 20 previous Oscar nominations

(of which she won three), as well as a nomination for her role in the recent political drama The Post. In the richly acclaimed press room biopic, she portrays Katharine Graham, the owner and publisher of The Washington Post, who in 1971 made the difficult decision to publish The Pentagon Papers: a classified government study exposing lies about American involvement in the Vietnam War. Yet her character wasn’t the typical imposing Streepian powerhouse. Graham was a wealthy Washington D.C. socialite who was obliged to take charge of her family-owned newspaper after the suicide of her husband. Streep seamlessly captures Graham’s hesitant, nonconfrontational nature while showing how she gradually rose to the challenge, giving her executive editor (Tom Hanks) the go-ahead to publish the secret documents. In doing so, she defies pressure from her all-male board of directors and legal threats from a Nixon administration that her newspaper would later help bring down during the Watergate scandal.



“Early in her life she was not the confident Katharine Graham, the woman that people came to know as the first female head of a Fortune 500 company,” Streep says. “She was someone very unsure of herself. She was the product of a time when women weren’t expected to do much outside the realm of good child-rearing and housekeeping. “But look at how far we have come. At that time, she was in a unique position as a woman. Since then we’ve gone on to see so many more women take up countless positions in corporations and in government.” Similarly, Streep has become a fervent champion of women’s rights and a leader of the equal pay movement in Hollywood, albeit not a role she initially intended to undertake. But whether on a film set or speaking in public, Streep takes on a sense of authority and mission. She traces this assertiveness to the influence of her mother and grandmother. “My mother was someone I looked up to and loved very much. She had a dynamic personality and a positive, enthusiastic outlook on life that I


often wished I could have had when I was a teenager or in my 20s,” says Streep. “She told me she always believed in me and that I could achieve anything I set my mind to… that there are no limits. She gave me the idea that women can be anything if we really want it and work hard for it.” In the late 70s through to the 80s, Streep made her name as one of Hollywood’s most accomplished and versatile actresses, leading films such as Kramer vs. Kramer and A Cry in the Dark. She rose to fame for her accents and stunning character portrayals in particular, but in the 90s switched to comedies such as Postcards from the Edge and Death Becomes Her – “at that point in my life they suited my own personality more, I think”. Streep began to withdraw from Hollywood towards the turn of the millennium, preferring to dedicate herself to her husband, sculptor Don Gummer, and their four children. Now, members of the brood have flown the nest and forged careers for themselves, unsurprisingly, in the arts: Mamie, 34, co-starred with Streep in Ricki and the Flash; Grace, 31, has appeared in films including Margin Call and Frances Ha; Henry, 38, is a musician; and her youngest daughter Louisa, 26, works as a model. Over the course of nearly two decades, Streep and her family lived on a sprawling property in Connecticut where she could remain relatively anonymous and removed from the world of celebrity. She spent her days organising lunches with other mothers and participating in school events. “It was one of the happiest times in my life, my oasis.


I took so much pleasure from watching over my children, being as much of a confidante as possible, and enjoying everything that came with helping them grow into independent young people.” Recent years have seen a slew of box office hits and striking character studies, from The Devil Wears Prada in 2006 and Mamma Mia! in 2008, to an Oscar-winning portrayal of Margaret Thatcher in The Iron Lady in 2011. “It’s fascinating to be able to probe the life of another person and take yourself on a journey,” Streep says. “You’re trying to get at the truth and are feeling inspired by their lives… by their hopes and dreams. I always found that acting gave me so much confidence when I was starting out because as a young woman I often felt very

“My mother gave me the idea that women can be anything if we really want it”

misunderstood – I worried about the kind of impression people had of me.” The role of women in film, especially those starting out, is an issue that has dominated our news pages since October last year, when The New York Times broke a story detailing allegations of sexual harassment against Harvey Weinstein. As the story continues to unfold, the Golden Globes in January saw actors wear black to show support for victims of sexual harassment and gender inequality in all industries. “The black dress movement is only the very start. Already we are seeing other versions of this rebellion, and that’s good and positive. Fashion can be utilised positively in much the same way as it can lead people to draw quick, careless and hurtful conclusions. There is so much power in that.” Streep continues: “I think the older you get, the more attention builds for women in terms of what they wear and what they do. The scrutiny

can be intense. And yet, looking good for me is much like acting – it has always been a great form of therapy, and we need to recognise this again and stop judging so casually.” Asked if she has the energy to continue investing her time and creativity in the film industry, the reply is definitive. “Of course – how can I not? The more I try to understand the women I’m playing, the more I understand something about myself. “I feel very proud to have been able to work in films where the women I’m portraying are very central to the story. We need to make more films that present women’s lives as authentically as possible, and tell more women’s stories, and this is a real point of investment for me going forward.” Streep might once have been in the ‘right place at the right time’, but at this crucial time she’s undoubtedly the right person, too. The Post is in cinemas now


Fine antique and vintage jewels Services include: › Custom design › Repairs › Valuations › Remodelling of old jewellery › Signet rings and seal engraving › Hire of jewellery.

50 Burlington Arcade, London W1J 0QH Tel: +44 (0) 207 493 2008 Find us on:

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24/01/2018 15:33

Golden Anniversary Pomellato continues its 50th anniversary celebrations with a new tome that explores the jeweller’s vibrant design history through the lens of influential fashion photographers, including Helmut Newton and Peter Lindbergh. Pomellato: Since 1967, by Sheila Weller and Giusi Ferré, published by Rizzoli, £57.95,

image Credit: Alberto Zanetti, courtesy of Cabana Magazine and Pomellato

Bella &


Bella Hadid has landed her first major jewellery campaign, shot by Sølve Sundsbø. The Bulgari brand ambassador models the iconic B.Zero1 collection of pendant necklaces and rings, updated with new styles in white and rose gold. Hadid comments: “The collection represents a woman who is strong, confident, responsible and smart.” From £1,660,


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Satta Matturi’s second collection of swinging chandelier earrings, studded with vivid gemstones and diamonds, is inspired by intricate batik fabric and lace patterns. The London-based West African jeweller previously honed her skills at De Beers before debuting her eponymous brand last year. POA,

Crystal clear

Master glassmaker and jeweller Lalique marks 130 years with a celebration of its greatest hits. Among them, the Art Deco crystal Cabochon ring, created in 1931 and lauded for its smooth, spherical simplicity. Select from a rainbow of colours, including a new powder pink and sunshine yellow. £109,

ANIMAL magic

Egyptian jeweller Azza Fahmy is known for refashioning cultural and historical motifs into contemporary jewellery with international appeal. The designer’s first UK boutique opens this month in Burlington Arcade, debuting an exotic collection of glittering serpent heads and striking, sculptural designs. From £300,

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image credit: diamond foundry


Carbon COPY Would you wear a diamond grown in a laboratory? We investigate the future of Silicon Valley’s sparklers W o r d s : R a c h a e l Tay l o r


s you wiggle your finger, it dances and sparkles in the light, throwing out rainbow hues that make you gasp and coo. But what if I told you that the diamond you are admiring came not from beneath the Earth’s surface, but a pristine lab in Silicon Valley? Would it change how you feel about it? This is a question worth considering as science now gives us the option of buying diamonds created by humans. In labs across the world, from Germany to China, men and women in white coats are recreating the exact same conditions that turned carbon into diamonds all those millions of years ago. And it’s working. Not be confused with cubic zirconia or rhinestones, lab-grown diamonds are real and have the same optical and gemological properties as mined diamonds. Even trained gemmologists sometimes can’t tell the difference. As the mecca for emerging tech, Silicon Valley has been one of the first places to really invest in the creation of lab-grown diamonds. The company leading the pack – or at least attracting the most famous investors, including Leonardo DiCaprio – is Diamond Foundry. With slick marketing that focuses on the ethical advantages of lab-grown stones (no mining, no exploitation, a clear supply chain), it is trying to change the way we feel about diamonds. “If you ask people abstractly whether they would buy a synthetic diamond, people tend to be disinclined,” admits Diamond


Foundry’s chief executive Martin Roscheisen. “But that’s like asking someone in 1990 whether they would buy an electric car, at a time when the only electric cars in existence were golf carts. When people see our diamonds in a store and understand their cultivation, there is zero resistance. Cultivated diamonds are simply a better product all around. It’s like organic food – it’s better food.” For those in the coffee queue with a thumbprint at the ready to buy their organic decaf soya latte using Apple Pay, this probably seems like a no-brainer. But for the romantics among us, the story that has been told for generations about diamonds forming slowly beneath the surface of

the Earth over millions of years is less easily unravelled. To start with, says Roscheisen, that story is false: “It takes two full weeks of continuous operation to create a [Diamond Foundry] diamond, which is 100 times slower than Earth itself forms them. Diamonds in earth form within two to three hours.” While the discovery of diamonds might take millions of years, the process starts with intense heat and enormous pressure 100 miles below the surface of the Earth, and when an eruption shoots the material upwards, cooling it rapidly, it is in this moment that diamonds as we know them are formed. These are the same conditions now being replicated above ground to create the 100,000 carats of lab-grown diamonds that Diamond Foundry is producing every year. Then, of course, there is the grimier side of the romantic mining story that jewellers don’t want you to think about


If you ask a dealer where your exact stone has come from, it is unlikely they could tell you with full certainty

when you’re selecting an engagement ring. While a very low percentage of diamonds are from conflict areas – it is estimated to be about one per cent – that does not mean that the 99 per cent of diamonds guaranteed by industry watchdog, the Kimberley Process, are ethically and environmentally sourced. The gemstone industry has a real problem with traceability, and while strides are being made – actor Salma Hayek recently auctioned off a 4.11ct emerald for charity mothers2mothers at her London home, donated by Fabergé and laser inscribed with a reference number, allowing its journey from a Gemfields mine in Zambia to be traced – if you ask a dealer where your exact stone has come from, it is unlikely they could tell you with full certainty. In a glass-fronted boutique within Soho’s fashionable Ham Yard Hotel, there is a jeweller, Anabela Chan, who

Synthetic stones

some feathers e l f f to ru Top right: image courtesy of Diamond Foundry; All other images courtesy of Anabela Chan


can guarantee you that every one of the diamonds and brightly coloured gemstones you’ll see within her chic golden displays are genuine and ethically sourced. That’s because every last one of them – from rich purple amethysts and fuchsia sapphires to canary yellow diamonds, and even black opal – was grown in a lab. “I trained as a fine jeweller in a very traditional way, but when I was in my second year I met a friend who was in footwear design but whose family were in the gemstone business, so I asked her why she was doing footwear,” says Chan, whose designs have all the hallmarks of Bond Street but not the exorbitant price tags. “She said, ‘If you’ve seen what I’ve seen and know what I know, you wouldn’t want to be a part of that industry either’. It was a life-changing moment.” While a very small minority of Chan’s clients do come to her because of the lab-grown angle, most fall in love with the designs first and discover the origin of the stones – and, pleasantly, the prices – second. “When you look at stones, you


“A lot of customers like the fact that they are getting more diamond for their money” Above: Syanyonja collection, courtesy of Cred; All other images courtesy of Diamond Foundry

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can see how beautiful they are,” says Chan, whose clients will mix her pieces into collections dominated by pricier, mined gems. “There’s no difference optically, and value-wise I think we are creating pieces that people enjoy wearing rather than keeping in the safe. Clients feel comfortable to travel with them and flamboyant, colourful, dramatic pieces can be enjoyed by a younger demographic as they can now afford them.” Ethics aside, the lower price of lab-grown diamonds is a major draw. At ethical jeweller Cred, which has an appointment-only boutique in Clerkenwell, all its fairtrade gold engagement rings are offered with either ethically sourced diamonds mined in Canada or Namibia, or lab-grown diamonds. Swapping the stone from mined to lab-grown can save you up to 30 per cent. “Some customers still want the allure of a natural stone, the romance,” says Cred owner Alan Frampton, whose biggest lab-grown diamond sale to date was a 1ct oval cut. “However, a lot of customers like the fact that they are getting more diamond for their money with a lab-grown, and love that they get all the beauty of a sparkly diamond without the cost to the environment, safe in the knowledge that no-one has been harmed in the process.” Last year, Atelier Swarovski – from the family of the same name that made its fortune from faux sparkle – launched its own collection of fine jewellery that set its trademark crystals next to lab-grown diamonds. American Horror Story actor Emma Roberts wore some of the pieces on the red carpet at the 2017 Oscars, marking a watershed moment for lab-grown diamonds being taken seriously. The question that remains is whether lab-grown diamonds will hold their value, as their mined predecessors have done. Will they follow the tech path and drop in price as increased production boosts supply? Or will they mimic cultured pearls, which took the place of natural pearls in the 1920s? Though prices initially plummeted, cultured pearls, once considered pretenders, are now highly sought-after luxuries. And good news for anyone with a mined diamond in their possession: the price of natural pearls skyrocketed even further.


The Montblanc pavilion at SIHH 2018

Inside SIHH: Fashion Week for Watches The first horological outing of 2018 reveals an industry in optimistic spirits – even if reissues and reinventions remain the order of the day Words: Richard Brown


ewind to this time last year and the mechanical watch industry was a ship in troubled waters. A perfect storm of global socio-economic suckerpunches had pummelled the sector into recession. In 2015, for the first time since 2009, Swiss watch exports had shrunk. Shipments fell a further 10 per cent in 2016. Thirteen of the 15 largest markets were in decline. Industry captains either abandoned their ships or were forced to walk the plank. Crews were culled. It was horologic Armageddon. Or so it seemed. What a difference 12 months make. After some major internal shakedowns, CEO swaps and strategic product realignment, brands are already reaping the rewards of redirecting their attentions to grassroots collections. Annual exports grew by 2.7 per cent in 2017, almost breaking the CHF 20 billion (£15 billion) mark (the industry peaked at CHF 22.2 billion in 2014). So, what’s the forecast for 2018? As the first major trade show of the year, January’s Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, or SIHH, serves as a good barometer for the state of the industry at large.

Attended by 35 mostly premium brands belonging chiefly to the Richemont group, a significant slice of the show is dedicated to haute horology – that highfalutin, high-fashion end of watchmaking – yet among the tourbillions and supercomplications there are enough timepieces destined for the real world to make the show relevant to real people. What did we learn from the 2018 instalment? An all-round sense of optimism suggests that it’s back to business as usual: Richard Mille did what it does best, launching a £828,500 carbon fibre, scratch-resistant timepiece with Argentinian polo player Pablo Mac Donough; Piaget invited Ryan Reynolds to its tikithemed pavilion to talk about the updated Altiplano collection; while IWC once again hosted a gala evening attended by Cate Blanchett, Bradley Cooper and Adriana Lima. Amid the champagne receptions and celebrity roll calls, a swathe of significant timepieces made their debuts. Some were as expensive as houses, but many others limbo-ed their way into that price point we call, for want of a better word, the ‘affordable’ watch segment. Watch crisis? What watch crisis?


Six of the best Mark Toulson, head of watch buying at Watches of Switzerland, selects his standout watches from SIHH 2018


Cartier Santos, from £5,500


“The return of an icon – the Santos is regarded as the first proper wristwatch for men. Originally produced in 1904, it has now been brought bang up to date with anti-magnetic parts in the movement and the option to easily change from the metal bracelet to a strap via Cartier’s QuickSwitch system, giving the watch a totally different look.”


Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph, £8,800


“This 42mm chronograph is one of 17 new models in JaegerLeCoultre’s Polaris collection. All are gentlemen’s sports watches, but I love this particular model for its deep blue dial and brown leather strap – a colour combination that works really well. The dial is exquisite and being a two dial chronograph it looks beautifully balanced.”


IWC Portofino HandWound Moon Phase, £11,250 “Marking 150 years of watch manufacturing, this model is one of the celebration watches limited to a production run of only 350 examples. The 45mm steel case houses a manually wound eight-day power reserve movement that also includes a moon phase function. The hands are blued steel and look really cool against the crisp white lacquered dial that is a feature of the Jubilee Collection.”

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Camouflage, £26,100 “The Royal Oak Offshore turns 25 this year and Audemars Piguet has produced a new colourway that surprised everyone. At 44mm, it’s a big watch with an even bigger personality. The beige dial is subtle but the orange chronograph hands really pop out against the brown sub dials. Then there’s the green ceramic bezel, green pushers and the amazing camouflage rubber strap to consider. Perfect for any reconnaissance missions you have in mind.”

A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin, £17,900


“Perfectly sized at 39mm, the white gold case presents a beguiling aventurine dial. Also known as copper blue, the silver base dial is coated with copper blue glass that holds flecks of copper dioxide, which creates a unique shimmery effect. It’s stunning, in a very sophisticated way.”

Officine Panerai Luminor Due, £5,500

“Still with the proper Luminor look but a more slimmed down case, this 42mm timepiece is eminently wearable for any occasion. You get an in-house manufactured three-day power reserve movement with a lovely anthracite dial that contrasts beautifully with the beige leather strap.”

Watches 1, 2, 3, 5 and 6 are available at Watches of Switzerland Regent Street. Watch 4 is available at Watches of Switzerland Canary Wharf,




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Fit for a princess The Meghan Markle effect meant all eyes were on Ralph & Russo’s S/S18 couture show – and like the royal engagement portraits, it didn’t disappoint. Each look was a vision of romance – abundant with Asian influences, Swarovski crystals and billows of ostrich feathers. By appointment only, 40 Park Street, W1K,


Ulyana Sergeenko’s S/S18 couture collection wouldn’t look out of place in Lewis Carroll’s Wonderland or at the court of Marie Antoinette. The Kazakhstani designer has reimagined the ornate tea sets that were present throughout her traditional Soviet upbringing: dresses are sculpted into silhouettes reminiscent of cups and saucers, adorned with patterns often painted on porcelain. Now, where’s the cake? POA,

Storm in a teacup

bagS OF

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A pair of peepers from Parisian eyewear brand Izipizi will brighten your outlook in more ways than one... £33,

Spring update

Pop into Fenwick of Bond Street and discover two bright new additions: King & Tuckfield and Stine Goya. The latter celebrates its 10th anniversary this year; browse its whimsical prints and bold tailoring in an in-store pop-up shop until mid-April.

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What happened when Gigi Hadid and Kate Moss met on set for the first time? We find out in Stuart Weitzman’s latest spring/summer campaign



ow old were you when you first started modelling? “18 months old maybe,” says Gigi Hadid to the camera. “I was 14,” replies Kate Moss. In the short behind-the-scenes clip for the Stuart Weitzman S/S18 campaign, you can tell these years of experience have paid off. Both women appear confident, feminine and alluring. Three words, incidentally, that Australian male model Jordan Barrett, who joins them (sans shoes), uses to describe the Stuart Weitzman woman. Their debut appearance together coincides with the 25th anniversary of the Stuart Weitzman 5050 stretch boot. It’s a design that stands at the helm of everything that the brand is known for: a seamless blend of fashion and function. The combination of half microstretch and half leather/suede was th created in 1993 and has not only been coveted by Hollywood A-listers the world over, but also developed into a variety of half and half combinations in different heel heights. The popular Reserve with a 1¾-inch block heel is one such version. Worn by Kate Moss in the campaign (pictured left), it can be snapped up online or in store in black nappa or black suede. The choice doesn’t stop there. Each vignette of the campaign sees the style sirens showcase other new shoes and heels, from the tough motorcycle Expert boots to the crystal fringed Irises loafers and the square-toed fringe Nudist sandals. It’s not the first time Hadid has modelled for the brand. She’s made numerous appearances: controversially posing naked with Lily Aldridge and Joan Smalls for S/S16, releasing the Gigi Boot later that year and sporting a dramatic pixie haircut for A/W17. But when asked on the set of this year’s shoot what her most memorable supermodel moment is, she replies: “I guess shooting with Kate today is pretty awesome.” We couldn’t agree more.

Kate Moss and Gigi Hadid’s debut appearance together coincides with the 25 anniversary of the the 5050 stretch boot


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Blouse, POA, RED Valentino,; Trousers, ÂŁ680, Roberto Cavalli,; Coat, POA, Agnona,; Earrings, ÂŁ165, Maria Black,

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Photographer Alexander Beer S t y l i s t Gra h am C r u z a t A & R C r e a t i v e

THIS PAGE Shirt, £565, Stella McCartney,; Vest, £415, Dsquared2,; Skirt, POA, Valentino,; Boots, £650, Jimmy Choo,; Cuff, £135, Cornelia Webb,; Ring, £150 and pendant, £105, both Allison Bryan,; Earrings, £1,800, Noor Fares, OPPOSITE PAGE Blouse, £470, Emilio de la Morena,; vest, £495, Missoni,; Trousers, £575, Vilshenko,; Bag, £1,295, Christian Louboutin,; Shoes, POA, Aquazzura,; Earrings, £142, Maria Black,

THIS PAGE Jumper, £1,154 and sleeveless jacket, £1,877, both Antonio Berardi,; Earrings, £6,600, Noor Fares,; Bracelet, POA, Shamballa Jewels, OPPOSITE PAGE Blouse, £165, lisou,; Jumper, £685, Missoni,; Dress, POA, Agnona,; Sandals, £550, Giuseppe Zanotti,; Ring, £126, Cornelia Webb,; Earrings, £275, Kalmar,

THIS PAGE Bodysuit, POA, Valentino,; Sleeveless jumper, £175, Pringle of Scotland,; Skirt, £1,020, Missoni,; Earrings, £2,880, Noor Fares, OPPOSITE PAGE Top, £450, Dsquared2,; Cardigan, £275, Pringle of Scotland,; Skirt, £1,450, Dior,; Sandals, £825, Christian Louboutin,; Earrings, £300, Missoni,; Sunglasses, £580, Dita,

Model Johanna Feldmeier at Marilyn Agency Paris Hair and make-up Sophie Higginson, using Oribe and MAC location Palazzo Avino,

New vision

The womenswear department at Harrods has had a stylish overhaul, starting with the new Advanced International Designer Room



ver since Harrods opened its doors in 1905 it has been the first stop on many a style pilgrimage. Whether you’re searching for wardrobe staples – a Bella Freud knit or a pair of well-cut J Brand jeans, perhaps – or looking to invest in a design classic such as a Chanel 2.55 handbag or a Max Mara camel coat, there is certainly no shortage of luxury brands housed under its historic roof. But the famous emporium is not one to sit on its laurels. Rather, the department store is continually looking to the future. Following the unveiling of its Art Deco-inspired bakery and coffee shop (the first phase in a ‘taste revolution’ that will see the food hall entirely revamped for the first time in 30 years), Harrods is having a makeover elsewhere. Up on the first floor, the womenswear department has been dressed to impress. For those with an afternoon to spare, a loop of the floor is in order, starting with the Superbrands hall and its parade of beautiful boutiques, ticking off everything from Louis Vuitton and Saint Laurent to Dior and Dolce & Gabbana as you go. Next, follow the marble corridor to the Designer Collections, before ending in the newly opened Advanced International Designer Room. Conceived by David Collins Studio, contemporary and classical design touches collide in the space, which is home to a cherry-picked selection of both established and emerging brands. The alabaster and ivory colour scheme, complemented by illuminated onyx, Venetian terrazzo floors and pleated pistachio velvet in the fitting rooms, provides a suitably stylish backdrop for a curated selection of designs. Along the back wall, harlequin prints from Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini and fiery red, flamingo-inspired Johanna Ortiz frocks hang alongside varsity and sporty separates from Off-White and Acne leather jackets. The complete brand list, which features 16 labels, including the likes of Vetements, Moschino and Erdem, was carefully chosen by the buying team, which also has a number of exclusive collections lined up. “We are pleased to reveal the Advanced International Designer Room, the latest addition to womenswear at Harrods, designed in partnership with David Collins Studio,” comments Maria Milano, general merchandising manager of womenswear. “Hosting an exceptional mix of the most exciting and fastest growing brands in fashion today, including Off-White, Palm Angels and Adaptation, alongside established labels such as Isabel Marant and Acne, the room brings the most cohesive contemporary edit to our customers, allowing them to shop the latest trends in the most luxurious environment.”

The womenswear department has been dressed to impress From top: Bleached Denim Jacket, £525, OFF- WHITE; Track Jacket, £340, palm angels; Ariana Floral Gown, £1,399, Vilshenko Exclusive; Plaid Cut-Out Blouse, £1,150, Rosie Assoulin

87-135 Brompton Road, SW1X,


Material world The fashion industry has a dirty secret: it’s responsible for 10 per cent of all global carbon emissions and a quarter of all chemicals produced in the world. But could scientists’ lab-grown materials help this unsustainable sector clean up its act? W o r d s : L A U R E N RO M A N O


mid rows of conical flasks, measuring cylinders and test tubes, a team of scientists carefully wield pipettes and pore over specimens in vacuum-sealed containers. They are on the edge of a breakthrough – one that could change the face of fashion as we know it. Settings such as these could soon be the nerve centre of the textile and fashion industries. In laboratories across the globe, biologists, chemists and technicians are harnessing DNA to replicate and manufacture the natural materials we need to make our clothes. It couldn’t have come at a better time. Fashion has been getting its hands grubby for a while now. The sector is the second largest polluter after the oil industry. Speaking of which, almost 70 million barrels of the stuff are used to make polyester – the most commonly used clothing fibre – each year. And it’s not just synthetic fibres that are to blame. WWF estimates that cotton growing accounts for 24 per cent of all insecticides and 11 per cent of all pesticides used globally; and if our love of leather continues at the current rate, some 430 million cows would need to be slaughtered annually to keep up with demand by 2025. This is where the scientists come in. In New Jersey, biofabrication company Modern Meadow is designing, growing and assembling collagen in such a way that the end product is something that not only looks and feels like leather, genetically speaking, it is leather – only better. The material, known as Zoa, can be engineered with a very specific set of structural and aesthetic criteria, something that is impossible with traditional leather. And this formula can be applied to all animal skins. So if, for example, you want the strength of kangaroo with the look of crocodile, then a bit of genome sequencing here and there and: voilà, your very own animal-free leather hybrid.







So far, so Jurassic Park, but it’s just the beginning. Science’s very own Lord Attenborough is Modern Meadow founder Andras Forgacs, who first pioneered bioprinting of human tissue for medical use in 2007 with his biotech business Organovo. “Biology has undergone a huge revolution,” he explained in an interview with The Business of Fashion. “It’s gone from being this artisanal industry to being able to put things together like Lego blocks – being able to not just read DNA, but edit and write DNA in larger and larger chunks.” What’s more, by combining design, biology and engineering, it has been possible to create materials that are both high-performance and less harmful to the planet. “Our technology enables designers to explore materials in exciting new ways, enabling never-seen-before functionality, aesthetics and performance possibilities,” adds Modern Meadow’s chief creative officer Suzanne Lee. This potential for both style and substance has been well-received in the luxury fashion sector. Stella McCartney has always been a pioneer in the ethical and animal-free fashion domain. Last year the designer collaborated with Californian biotech company Bolt Threads, whose scientists have created a protein-based polymer from yeast, sugar and DNA that can be spun into high quality silk. “Partnering with Bolt Threads is so exciting because it feels like everything is finally coming together and the dots are being connected between fashion, sustainability and tech innovation,” McCartney writes on her recently launched World of Sustainability platform, which documents the practices that her label champions. This ranges from sourcing and developing non-leather alternatives and using recycled materials (the Adidas by Stella McCartney collection was made of 100 per cent recycled polyester, a first for both brands) in its designs, to investing in innovative technologies to create new fabrics. But will this strand of biotechnology have much of an impact outside the luxury echelons of the market? Will lab-grown silk be making its debut on the high street anytime soon? Forgacs admits it might take some time to filter down. “Luxury brands are really important because they tend to be the ones most focused on quality and creating things that are truly differentiated in terms of design and performance,” he said to The Business of Fashion. “Plus, the margins are high, so they can underwrite innovation.” Innovation is certainly at the forefront of the minds of the moguls at Kering, the conglomerate that owns brands such as Gucci, Balenciaga and Alexander McQueen – and a stake in Stella McCartney. Last year it outlined an agenda to reduce its environmental impact by 40 per cent by 2025. Progress so far has been positive: Kering was named as the top sustainable textile, apparel and luxury goods corporation, according to rankings released by the Corporate

Knights Global 100 index, published at the World Economic Forum in January. Kering is also encouraging innovation among emerging fashion designers through the Kering Award for Sustainable Fashion programme in partnership with the London College of Fashion (LCF). “We have seen everything from post-carbon material using algae, microbial printing to cellulosic fibres made from apple waste,” says Renée Cuoco, education and sustainability projects manager at the Centre for Sustainable Fashion at LCF. “There is some incredible innovation happening around the development of alternative materials, especially in the field of biofabrication, which will play a part in creating more sustainable and localised production systems.” The Centre for Sustainable Fashion has been challenging the industry to do better for the past decade and is marking its 10th anniversary by collaborating on a number of projects, including Fashioned from Nature, an exhibition tracing the relationship between fashion and the natural world since 1660, which opens at the Victoria and Albert Museum in April. Among the 300 objects on display will be the Calvin Klein dress Emma Watson wore to the Met Gala as part of Eco-Age’s Green Carpet Challenge. It was woven from Newlife, a yarn made from recycled plastic bottles that requires 94 per cent less water and 60 per cent less energy than ordinary polyester. Meanwhile, fibre recycling is an integral part of the ethos at Eileen Fisher, which promotes its Renew program at its King’s Road and Marylebone High Street stores. The program enables customers to bring in clothes “in any condition to be either cleaned and resold or used as design materials for completely new garments”, explains Inka Apter, the brand’s facilitating manager for fabric development. “To date we have taken back 900,000 Eileen Fisher garments from customers.” Some of these outfits might end up as Refibra Tencel, a fibre made from pre-consumer textile waste and wood chips, developed with Austrian manufacturer Lenzing. “We are also working with an innovative mill in Spain that develops new fabrics using mechanically recycled fibres from our take-back program,” adds Apter. “There is such value in our materials, and we strive to extend the life of our garments.” But is it enough to develop more sustainably produced materials or do we need to be looking into other initiatives too? LCF’s Cuoco has this word of warning: “Even the technological advancements we have witnessed over the past decade have been negated by continued growth in consumption and production, which only seems to be getting faster,” she says. “Every day we use more resources to feed our insatiable fashion appetite, and every day we come closer towards irreversible and dangerous levels of climate change. Alongside new technology we need a greater shift – we need to find a way to slow down and consume less.”


Ahead of the

Curve Marina Rinaldi has advocated different body types and positive ways of expressing style since 1980. The brand remains firmly at the forefront of fashion – especially now supermodel and role model Ashley Graham is launching her first collaborative collection



he name Achille Maramotti might be the first that springs to fashion minds when the Max Mara group is mentioned. However, brands under its umbrella – such as Sportmax, Marella and Marina Rinaldi – might never have existed had it not been for two important and ambitious women in the Italian founder and fashion designer’s life. Maramotti’s mother was a couturier who ran a tailoring and pattern-cutting school in their home city of Reggio Emilia in northern Italy. It was also here that his great-grandmother, a seamstress called Marina Rinaldi, ran and owned an atelier in the 1850s. The Marina Rinaldi label was born in 1980 and was the first to make clothes for women who were a European size 46 (UK size 18) and above, introducing new ways of communicating to an audience that was previously considered ‘plus size’. Its aim was to enhance, flatter and celebrate their voluptuous figures. It refused to scrimp on style, producing – and continuing to produce – clothing that is versatile and contemporary. Sound familiar? This attitude was at the heart of American model Ashley Graham’s career long before she was first asked by Marina Rinaldi to appear in its spring 2017 campaign. “In the past, curvy silhouettes were mostly associated with a certain age,” says Lynne Webber, managing director of Marina Rinaldi, “but now we are surrounded by curvy young women and girls who are passionate about fashion, want to follow current fashion trends and are proud of their bodies. “This has led us to widen our ranges, adding younger lines and capsule collections in order to reach this new target of consumers.” The synergy between the label and Graham has been so successful that they have collaborated to produce the capsule Denim Collection, developed using new denim jersey and super stretch denim materials. The range includes jeans, jackets, tops and skirts in a spectrum of blues, from classic indigo to washed-out pale, plus staple black and white pieces. Graham has added her own touch as well: her

Marina Rinaldi’s aim is to celebrate voluptuous figures

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autograph is printed on the buttons and leather waistband labels. While Marina Rinaldi and Graham have both raised awareness, started conversations about the lack of diversity in fashion and motivated change, perhaps the real breakthrough will be when people cease to refer to ‘plus-size’ and instead it becomes a new norm. The motto that supports Graham’s partnership with the brand states that ‘women are the future’. It’s an inspiring statement for all women, regardless of size, but we’ve only got to where we are now thanks to those in the past – like Maramotti’s mother and his greatgrandmother Marina Rinaldi.

Marina Rinaldi invites you to celebrate a unique evening of fashion and accessories centred around the new capsule Denim Collection, created in collaboration with American model Ashley Graham. Explore the finest luxury Italian fabrics in store, as well as a fashion show, champagne, canapés, gift bags and a tombola. 6.30-8.30pm, 6 March, Marina Rinaldi, 5 Albemarle Street, W1S To attend, email:



@luxurylondonofficial 

@luxurylondonofficial 



Gieves & Hawkes’ new line of smart and casualwear panders to the British sporting season, with tailoring in lightweight worsted weaves and neutral linens, and fine knits in fitting shades of bottle green, racing red and yellow. Complete the look with a pair of white trainers and a glass of Pimm’s (or two). From £95,

A good


n the sidelines o r a Lightw e eight suits to w

ON the case You’ll have no bother spotting this MCM suitcase on the luggage carousel. Inspired by German textile designer Gunta Stölzl’s graphic prints, the Gunta M Stripe Visetos Cabin Trolley features a repetitive ‘M’ motif in cobalt and grey hues. £1,375,

Foot loose

Water works Expanding her menswear line that launched in 2016, Stella McCartney’s new swimwear collection includes tailored trunks in myriad prints and loose linen shirts – plus poolside accessories such as silk scarves and drawstring canvas bags. From £145,

Add a spring to your step this season with Harrys of London’s new Tom trainers, available in a range of ice cream shades. £325,


Fine& interview


Do you know a shawl from a shahtoosh or a jabot pin from a tie pin? Neither did we until we met Mark Francis Vandelli, the distinguished authority on men’s style Words: Hannah Lemon


ark Francis Vandelli is a name that often has people rolling their eyes. He was made famous by Made in Chelsea, the Channel 4 socialite ‘drama’ full of It people with names like Binky, Toff and Habbs, hailing from South Kensington and Knightsbridge. One of the programme’s most memorable characters has been Mr Vandelli himself, who replaces personal gossip with witty repartee: “Do you know what I find ghastly? People who jog in public”, or “I don’t have any resolutions whatsoever. How could I possibly improve upon myself?” With this in mind it’s hard not to imagine Vandelli strutting around ballrooms in bespoke suits and turning his nose up at any canapé with a toothpick in it. But when I was introduced to him at an awards ceremony, it became evident that half of this dandyish persona is a tongue-in-cheek exaggeration for the Made in Chelsea producers. Weeks later, when I phone him, he’s bunged up with cold but ever charming. I can tell certain comments are delivered entirely for a reaction; an embellishment of the character he has created. When I ask him how he’s bearing up, he replies: “Colds – they’re just so common.” I titter down the phone and spend the next half an hour listening to his rolling ‘Rs’ and accentuated ‘ohs’ as he talks about his foray into fashion. His mother, Russian model Diane Vandelli, was a muse of Yves Saint Laurent “at a turning point in London in the 70s when everything was changing and people were quite rebellious”. Although Vandelli remarks that for someone who spent her life in couture, she cares very little about it now. In fact it is his father, Italian industrialist Marzio Vandelli, who seems to have passed on the mantle of debonair dressing.



Vandelli’s abundant vocabulary has me Googling phrases (a shahtoosh, for your information, is a shawl), but despite the big words, he is unexpectedly self-depreciating. “Never overdo it. I should know, I’ve done it many times,” he says. With a capsule collection for Hawes & Curtis under his crocodile belt, various television shows with his “best friend” Viscountess Emma Weymouth of Longleat, as well as endless public appearances and private party invitations, there’s not a moment that a hair or handkerchief is out of place.

How would you describe your style? As curated and timeless and, I suppose, elegant; but that’s not really for me to say.

What’s your favourite item of clothing? An era that shaped my understanding of menswear was when Tom Ford was at Gucci – a fundamental epoch for fashion. I still wear those pieces a lot.

How has your family influenced what you wear? My father was a bon viveur, a flâneur and a gambler. At my age, he was in black tie most nights. As a result he’s left me an inordinate number of smoking jackets and a vast archive of eveningwear. It harks back to a bygone era of glamour and sophistication: two things that have unfortunately become increasingly rare.

What would you never leave the house without? A watch and pocket square. They must complement an outfit and provide a subtle indication of taste. I seldom wear a modern watch. It’s terrible when you realise there’s someone wearing the same model.

watches in the 20s and 30s, which were recently reproduced in their Collection Privée. I collect those too, but you know what I really love that no one wears? Graff watches, they’re fabulous for the evening.

Any other accessories? Actually, I have to say – almost at any time of year – a shahtoosh goes down very well.

How about ties? I’ll wear a tie in the office, at a wedding or a funeral. I don’t particularly approve of ties in the evening – it’s not ‘me’. But what I truly detest is the loosened tie, circa midnight, with shirt buttons undone. That’s when you know a man’s given up.

Would you ever wear a pre-tied bow tie? I should really say I’d never do such a thing. For velvet, though, I make an exception. Tying one’s own can prove quite disastrous: they can become a gigantic, cravat-like error hovering above one’s shirt.

What’s the most sentimental piece that you own? My jewellery. Mostly family pieces, many of which I’m gradually converting into cufflinks, shirt studs, jabot pins and so on. I also collect Art Deco jewellery, mostly Cartier and Lacloche Frères that I buy at auction. Unfortunately, jewellery is also very easy to lose – a wonderful diamond and sapphire panther of mine went for a walk a little while ago and never came back...

Do you have any favourite brands? Gérald Genta was a genius who designed some of the most iconic watches for Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet in the 70s. Cartier was already creating timeless

“Elegance never goes out of fashion”

“One should never clash with the artwork”

“Don’t be fooled. I prefer receiving awards to presenting them”


“There’s nothing as demoralising as feeling underdressed” What do you dislike about current trends for men? There’s nothing worse than men having the hem of their trousers so high that you see their ankles. It looks totally uncivilised. A man’s best friend is a great tailor because they’ll always make him look his best, whatever the occasion.

Are there any colours that you like to avoid?

the demise of spontaneity. You have to think twice before wearing the velvet blazer, with the evening trousers, with the full length mink, with diamond stud buttons, with the jabot pin in your bow tie, with a patent shoe... sometimes you just have to pare it down.

How would you decribe true luxury? Finding something that no one else has: a cobbler in Portofino who makes beautiful suede loafers that are so soft you can roll them up. Designers and manufacturers who still produce unique pieces using artisanal methods – those are the chicest luxuries.

What do you wear when you’re relaxing?

Mustard. I avoid mustard at all costs. I find it absolutely abominable. There is nothing that could ever please me about such a colour.

I don’t understand the need to have a different wardrobe for occasions in which no one can see you. I was brought up to dress on my own the way I would at a dinner party. After all, you never know who’s looking...

Who is your favourite tailor?

Best piece of advice?

I adore Neapolitan tailoring. It’s really the birthplace of great menswear and a constant inspiration for my own collections. If your blazers are handmade in Naples you can throw them into a suitcase, pull them out and be sure they’ll look as though they’ve just been pressed.

Appropriacy. To dress in a manner befitting your figure, age (unfortunately), complexion – if you must – and lifestyle. That said, there’s nothing as demoralising as feeling underdressed. As long as one’s selective when accepting invitations, it’s really very difficult to overdress. And if that’s the case, it may just be a sign that one needs better friends.

What has been your biggest fashion faux pas? Overdoing it – wearing the whole look from the fashion show. It denotes a total lack of originality and

“When your parents are your inspiration. Capri, summer 1980”

“Neptune’s back in the office”

“Like father, like son. St Tropez, 1979” “Minimalist? This is positively Spartan”

“Walking is such a chore” LU X URY LONDON.CO.UK | 069



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Fenty Beauty’s new line of matte lipsticks is not for the faint-hearted. From the electric pink Candy Venom to the verdant Midnight Wasabi (yes, really), each of the 14 shades is bolder than the next, and boasts a formidable staying power that lasts all day. £16,



Stick it



In her NEW book Transform, make-up artist extraordinaire Toni Malt shows off her skills using unorthodox tools such as stencils, Swarovski crystals and temporary tattoos, to create 60 different looks on one rather patient model. £38,

ty au


Face Value

Image credit: Sylvio Kuehn

French fancy Lancôme’s limited edition Blush Bomb sets harbour a sweet surprise: shaped like macarons, these miniature compacts comprise a creamy blush and complementing blender. Use them together for a rosy glow. From £35,

True blue The latest launch from Chanel is the Blue Serum Eye, a lightweight formula that melts into the skin, reducing the appearance of dark circles and lines. From £57,

health & beauty

gym review

Frame WORDS: Marianne Dick


he word gymnasium is derived from the ancient Greek term ‘gymnos’, which means naked: an apt way to describe how I often feel in such an establishment – exposed and self-conscious. I think it’s fair to say I have a bit of a phobia of exercising in public. I also have an aversion to Lycra-clad gym enthusiasts on social media, so one look at the Move Your Frame Instagram feed instils in me a sense of dread in the run-up to my first class at the new Fitzrovia outpost. It could be dread, or it could be the early-morning grogginess I only usually endure if I have a very early flight to catch. Some people must be mad, I think to myself as I haul my sleep-deprived body out of bed before 6am. The mad people I have to blame for such an ungodly awakening (Frame’s classes start at 6:30am on weekdays, and a little later on weekends) are Pip Black and Joan Murphy, who opened the first Frame studio in Shoreditch in 2009, basing their brand on the simple idea that working out shouldn’t be a chore. One hugely attractive feature of Frame is that it is commitment-free: an online booking platform allows you to choose and pay for one-off classes, whenever you fancy, in just a few clicks. As I trundle down Goodge Street in the dull, dark drizzle and turn the corner onto Berners Street, home of the new studio, I feel like I’m in some sort of advert where the screen fills with colour as the protagonist’s luck changes. Frame is fronted with an unabashedly bright graphic print and reminds me of nightclubs I might once have left at such an hour. The basement foyer has a shopping area, a smoothie station and mellow lighting – I could be in some sort of trendy concept store. The branch is the largest out of a total of six, with five spaces including a 12-bed room dedicated to Reformer

Pilates: a popular class that uses tables with straps and springs to increase resistance. Light shafts let in natural light to some of the studio spaces, while others are decorated with disco balls to spice up 80s aerobics and music video workouts. This is definitely my kind of exercise. The changing facilities are vast but divided into smaller sections for privacy; there are hair tools, Bumble and Bumble products in the showers and even selfie-friendly mirrors if the mood takes you. I try a barre class (a strengthening hybrid of ballet, aerobics and pilates), and find out that it’s quite different from the relatively painless ‘good toes, naughty toes’ routines that I was taught as a youngster, but despite the hard work I find the experience to be anxiety-free and – dare I say it – enjoyable. Feeling a satisfying burn, I leave Frame in full-colour advert mode, with a well-deserved smoothie in hand and a resolution to cancel my stagnant gym membership and top up a Frame card each month for the same amount. A couple of weeks on, I’m quite sure that it wasn’t just all the endorphins. 25-33 Berners Street, Fitzrovia, W1T,


float on

Voyages Voyages, Jean-Paul Gaultier’s latest fabric and wallpaper collection for Lelievre, looks to all corners of the world for inspiration, from Kyoto’s cloud-like cherry blossom to the glass roof of the Grand Palais in Paris. From £68,


great dane

Putting the fun into functional, Danish design company Brdr. Krüger presents Hans Bølling’s multi-purpose 1963 tray in an assortment of slightly surreal scenarios and hip colours.

Wall of


MARTYN LAWRENCE BULLARD is usually affiliated with Los Angeles A-listers, however the interior designer has returned to his British roots to collaborate with Cole & Son. Don’t be fooled by the modest aesthetic – he hints at his extensive travels with motifs of Hollywood palms and the Hanging Gardens of Babylon. From £90,


all rosy The powder pink obsession appears to be continuing well into 2018, with special releases from the likes of Anglepoise and Bella Freud. Treat yourself to a spring update, or make a loved one blush. Candle, £48, Bella Freud,; lamp, £95,

URBAN LEGEND Born in scenic New Zealand, Christopher Hall’s collections are often inspired by unusual and beautiful locations. His latest, Somata, draws on mythology (he spent time in Athens in his twenties). The skeletal Pelops table might not be to everyone’s taste, but we love the Triton cabinet’s shimmering stained glass scales. From £4,200,


beauty spots Discover Vietnam’s cultural history on a personalised tour by car or Vespa – to the villages, homes and workshops of the local artists whose creations adorn The Anam beach resort. From $77,

Mai Loc, The Water flower

Mothers. Even when they’re wrong, they’re right. Sunday 11th March

Enjoy the style of our First Floor Dining Rooms this Mothering Sunday with a complimentary glass of Billecart-Salmon NV Champagne for all mothers. 020 7730 0070

The Thomas Cubitt

The Orange

The Grazing Goat

The Alfred Tennyson

The Coach Makers Arms






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new to town

h a ngout

It has been more than 10 years since Prince Harry was first papped at Mahiki, where he was likely quaffing fresh fruit cocktails at the Tiki-themed bar. While he may have dropped the party scene now, the club shows no signs of slowing down. In fact, quite the opposite. At the end of last year the brand opened a second London spot in Knightsbridge (there are others in Manchester, Dubai, Sardinia and Marbella). Its signature treasure chest is still a hit, brought through the crowd with flame-throwing sparklers – inside, a mix of rum, lime, peach liqueur and fizz – for a flamboyant £160. There’s also the equally ostentatious Ocean Sweeper: a boatful of strong and fruity shots for £400. There’s certainly no holding back on a night out here. From 6pm it’s cocktails and dinner: loaded platters of sashimi, gyoza, chilli squid, sticky pork ribs, chicken sliders and seared scallops. Then from 10pm until 3am the night becomes a hedonistic, tropical trip of DJs, dancing and exotic flavours. Make it a private party by reserving a table, the private beach room or perhaps the whole place, if you have 300 friends to share it with. 1 Dover Street, W1S and 2a Kensington High Street, W8,

thai at GR E Y H OUN D c af É 3 7 B e r ne rs s tr e e t, W 1T, gr e yh ou ndc afe . u k

j apane s e at k a z u 6 4 C h ar l otte Str e e t, W 1 T, k azu r e stau r ants. c o m

H E ALTH Y FAR E AT P OP I N A 8 3 Du k e Str e e t, W 1K , m ayfai r . popi na. c o. uk

food & drink restaurant review




rowing up in Wiltshire, my family outings on grey Saturdays involved long walks across farmland and the reward of a pint and some chips in The Ship, The Bear, The Greyhound or The Wheatsheaf. Each with its own unique clientele, from the five-pints-a-day Henrys to the schooner-of-sherry Janes, I became quickly accustomed to the reliability, predictability and thus the comfort of the Great British pub. It’s a mighty shame, then, that on moving to London, it took a while to hunt out the right haunt. Six years later, I have only one on my list of regulars. Now, two. The newest addition is The Wigmore, launched under the umbrella of The Langham London hotel last year. Quietly waiting on the side of the road where Regent Street turns into Langham Place, it has been designed as a ‘pub’ for the affluent city dweller. Walk through the heavy curtain by the front door and it’s as if you’ve entered a private club. Another masterpiece from Martin Brudnizki Design Studio: the walls are painted in a rich green, the same shade as the famous Truman-tiled watering holes of old, and geometric parquet flooring is reflected in retro mirrors, but really all attention is diverted to the bar in the middle, where bartenders shake, stir and serve drinks. There’s the essence of ‘pub’, but no landlord in sight. My guest and I are guided to one of the snugs hidden away from the brown bar stools and high marble-topped tables in the main room, to settle into comfy armchairs. Bookshelves piled high with leather-bound volumes and paintings of dogs and fields almost make me feel like I’m back in Wiltshire, until I’m given the menu. Under the eye of Michel Roux Jr., old classics are artfully reimagined. Scotch eggs come as prickly crusted urchins, with a gooey yolk that is spiked with masala and settled on a bed of dahl

FROM TOP: PORK PIE, image ©paul judd photography; THE MAIN ROOM; THE SNUG; SCOTCH EGGS, image ©paul judd photography

relish. Buttered crumpets are mouthfuls of soft, sweet bread topped with generous dollops of white crab meat and garnished with seaweed. It’s the bleak midwinter outside, and while my guest orders a festive pie of turkey with all the trimmings, I take in the mussels soaked in cider with sprinkles of smoky ham. Ordering a plate of bread with an unhealthy spread of butter is essential to mopping up the consoling, juicy remains. Of course, to finish a traditional meal one has to go for a traditional dessert, no matter how much your belt buckle is pressing into your stomach. The rice pudding is a successful choice – it arrives with a seasonal twist of cinnamon flavouring and a crisp crème brûlée-style top. To wash it down, those in favour of craft beer will have a wild time choosing from the house ‘Saison’ or alternatives from local breweries. This time, however, we are swayed by the almost scientific concoctions of gin and tonic, which are served in glass goblets and topped with sprigs of rosemary, curls of orange zest or quarts of grapefruit. These days I might be seen swapping an Aspall and pork scratchings for a botanical Tanqueray and seasoned seafood, but the reward after a long walk is just as sweet as it always was. 15 Langham Place, W1B,


d b E i le e n s e m b l e s Food is


into fine fashion by artist

Gretchen RÖehrs in a new book from Rizzoli. We ask London’s finest chefs and

bartenders their favourite ways to give these simple ingredients a

contemporary twist

food & drink

Jason Atherton, chef “I think the best way to cook Sweetcorn is on a barbecue. The smokiness provided by the flames gives a good contrast to the natural sweetness. It makes a great side dish with a squeeze of lime, a scattering of cheese and fresh chilli.”

Theo Randall, chef “Lobster linguine is one of the most delicious dishes – and extremely popular at Theo Randall at the InterContinental. We buy live Dorset blue lobsters and steam them, remove the meat and cut the tails with the shell on. They’re gently cooked with fresh red chilli, parsley and garlic. The linguine is very al dente and we finish it off with some lobster stock and fresh tomato tossed together. Add some spicy green olive oil and it’s something you really have to try.”


Martin Hudak, senior bartender at the Savoy’s American Bar “Coffee can be so much fun to give different dimensions and textures – and coffee cocktails can be more exciting then just regular espresso martinis. We infuse tonic water with ground coffee and roasted coffee nuts to give it a distinctly different flavour, which becomes part of the Kentish Cob cocktail – a blend with Bacardi rum, sweet vermouth and fermented plantain syrup.”

Tom Aikens, chef “Curly kale is one of my favourite vegetables. I love it simply shredded into a salad, or added to risotto right at the end to give a lift of freshness. It’s also great deep-fried and seasoned with chilli salt, or you can brush the leaves with cashew nut cream and slowly dry them out in a cool oven at about 70°C.”

food & drink

Ben Tish, culinary director, The Stafford London “I’m a big mushroom fan and at this time of year I use the more meaty, chestnut mushrooms, cooking them with just-in-season wild garlic leaf and butter, served on some grilled sourdough with an egg yolk and grated aged pecorino.”

Pepijn Vanden Abeele, bar manager, Sketch “I like to work with all different types of lemons and limes, as each has a very distinct character. One of my favourites at the moment is yuzu: it has great acidity as well as a very round flavour with notes of grapefruit and mandarin that helps gel different ingredients together. It’s an excellent alternative to lime in margaritas or daiquiris.”

Chris Galvin, chef E d ibl e E ns e mbl es , Gretchen RÖehr s, £18.95

“Pasta conjures up so many ideas and often plays an important role, like in a goat’s cheese ravioli with slow-cooked Pyrenees lamb shoulder and sweet pepper stew.”



perspective Once the Harrods heiress and a fashion entrepreneur, Camilla Fayed turned her back on it all to open cleaneating restaurant Farmacy words: Hannah Lemon


hen Farmacy launched in April 2016 it was dubbed a ‘veggan’ restaurant; an arcane term for the wholesome, Lululemon-wearing yummy mummies of Notting Hill to bandy about while they took up the trend of plant-based diets but resented giving up eggs. It was the seedling of Camilla Fayed, the 33-year-old daughter of business mogul Mohammed Al-Fayed and his second wife, Finnish socialite Heini Wathén. When I ask if Fayed is still ‘veggan’, she subtly dodges the answer with the nimbleness of a mum avoiding E numbers. “Myself and the Farmacy team are not interested in categorising people by dining choice,” she says. “For us it’s about caring what goes into the body. Is it fresh, chemical-free, healthy and good for you? Will it make you feel great after eating it? People from all walks of life, cultures and of all ages come to our restaurant.”

It all began when Fayed decided to turn vegetarian after the birth of her daughter Luna (now eight), and then plant-based after the arrival of her son Numair (five). “I had heard that a plant-based diet could lead to increased energy levels, improved digestion and radiant skin. Since I’ve begun following a plant-based diet, I feel much more energised.” Farmacy says it focuses just as much on creating a fun atmosphere as it does serving nutritious dishes. “Our mission is to help raise consciousness around food,” says Fayed, “and promote plant-based, organic eating and drinking, while having fun.” In the Westbourne Grove destination, cocktails at the standalone bar seem almost good for you. Espresso martinis are served with organic coffee liqueur and the Clean Cosmo seems to tick off one of your five a day with cranberry, lime juice and a twist of orange (vodka too, obviously). The wine list is labelled by the efficiency of the

food & drink

vineyards, from certified organic and biodynamic to practising organic and minimum interference. As for nonalcoholic drinks, it’s a finer science than kale and spinach in a green juice. Syringe shots provide a quick-fire boost: O.M.G. is laced with flaxseed oil, grapefruit and organic CBD powder (a derivative of cannabis but completely non-psychoactive and apparently good for the immune system). Meanwhile, the Antidote injection with charcoal and raw coconut water is ideal for absorbing the toxins of a hangover. The theme here, evidently, is that food can be nature’s own medicine. The menu offers ‘be good to yourself’ equivalents to nachos, pizza and bread and butter pudding. Burgers, for example, are made of black bean and mushroom, served in sourdough vegan buns. Dessert is probiotic spirulina ‘yoghurt’ served with chia seeds, almonds and bee pollen. “Our Nice Cream Brownie Sundae is in fact one of our best sellers,” remarks Fayed. With a father who once owned Harrods and Fulham FC, the drive to succeed seems innate. “I have always admired my father’s strong work ethic and this has resonated with me, inspiring me to follow my dreams and never give up.” True to her word, this year sees the expansion of the Farmacy brand with the release of her first cookbook and plans for other sites across London and perhaps abroad. Originally, it was catwalks that had her attention: Fayed owned a stake in fashion label Issa, the brand that provided the Duchess of Cambridge with that blue dress for her engagement. Which brands does she like to keep an eye on these days? “I admire how Stella

macro bowl

“Our mission is to help raise consciousness around food, while having fun”

farmacy burger

McCartney prioritises sustainability and commits to operating a responsible business that respects nature, FARMACy SYRINGE SHOTS animals and people.” Perhaps the leap from fashion to food isn’t that far – it’s the social responsibility that keeps her ticking. Not a bad ethic to pass onto the next generation of Fayeds. Farmacy Kitchen is published in June, available to pre-order now,




St James’s Summer Garden Party THURSDAY 28TH JUNE 2018 FROM 6PM TO 9PM IN ST JAMES’S SQUARE SW1Y 4LE

A wonderful evening for residents and businesses and their guests at a private party in support of the St James’s Conservation Trust. v FOOD & DRINKS from Café Murano, Chutney Mary, Wiltons, Barbacoa, Aquavit, The Ritz London, Fortnum & Mason, 67 Pall Mall, The Stafford Hotel, The Royal Automobile Club and more v MUSIC listen and dance to two bands v CASINO The Ritz Club v CHAMPAGNE Pimms, wines, cocktails, non-alcoholic drinks too v ST JAMES’S CRAFTS tailors, shoemakers, perfumiers, hatters v FABULOUS RAFFLE PRIZES TICKETS £60 EACH OR £50 FOR MORE THAN 10 - DRINKS, FOOD & ENTERTAINMENT INCLUDED

To attend the Party and for more details visit or email OUR SPONSORS

travel Smooth rides The top chauffeurs and car concierges in town


Taking the

starr luxury cars This Mayfair company uses algorithms and smart technology to deliver its superior service. It also offers supercars such as Ferraris, Aston Martins and BMWs for short-term leases, chauffeuring and self-drive hire.

Thai Road

lime wood

A taste of Koh Samui’s Kamalaya wellness sanctuary and holistic spa – plus its founders, mentors and culinary director – will be transported to Lime Wood hotel in the New Forest for a pair of three-day retreats in May. Mindfulness and stress management talks will be accompanied by yoga sessions, forest walks, cooking classes and, of course, treatments. 20-22 May and 23-25 May, from £1,835 per person, two nights all inclusive,

Hackett & Hackett Expect a liveried chauffeur on hand, whether for shopping, airport transfers or simply a trip to the theatre – with a fleet that ranges from saloons to SUVs or a 52-seat coach.

ai r l f h s ni n Find i F sophistication,

– and SodaStre


Hotel st. george

In March comes a new Helsinki city sanctuary, in a restored 19th-century building. A Nordic spa, 148 rooms, bakery and bar will surround a winter courtyard garden.

EG Chauffeurs It’s not just complimentary newspapers, WiFi and water here. Think discerning drivers with at least five years’ experience and no car more than six years old; personalised sightseeing tours across the country; and a promise of punctuality.

From ¤250 per night, bed and breakfast,


suite dreams

Blakes London words: HANNAH LEMON


oland Gardens is the epitome of affluent London – a quiet street with row upon row of grand Victorian redbrick houses. This might be why Anouska Hempel picked this quiet precinct of South Kensington for her boutique hotel, Blakes London, in 1978. The 70s actress and It girl turned interior designer and hotelier now has an extensive portfolio to her name that includes residences abroad in Beirut, Lisbon and Istanbul, as well as London – The Franklin in Chelsea opened at the end of 2016. However, Blakes stands a cut above the others in its reputation as Hempel’s first foray into hospitality. As soon as you walk into the moody lobby with its dark mahogany and charcoal palette and dim lighting, you can recognise her signature sultry caress. It nurtures an ambience that’s obviously popular with the locals (the restaurant seems filled with them). When I am shown to a quiet corner table, the Japanese-Italian menu proves just as seductive as the interiors. Maldon Rock Oysters send the meal off to a heady start; the miniature bottle of Tabasco providing just the right kick. The soft shell crab starter dissolves on the tongue while chargrilled octopus offers a meatier bite. I order the lobster pasta but am slightly overwhelmed by the size of the plate so swap it with my guest’s leaner dish of venison. For dessert, we’re tempted by the ice cream bucket, but read the small print just in time to discover that it serves four – a gluttonous step too far perhaps. Instead, the gluten-free mango mousse slides down with ease. For those who want to continue drinking into the night, there is Blakes Below, a basement bar


oozing Hempel’s provocative flair. It’s for an exclusive crowd of hotel guests and friends of Blakes, open from Wednesday to Saturday. DJs run the show until it closes at midnight. However, with such quirky design throughout the rest of the hotel, it seems a waste not to return to one of the suites for a nightcap. Rooms are small but that has not held Hempel back. There’s chic Parisian; regal Dorian Gray; a whitewash of pristine linen in the Corfu room; or the theatrical Cardinal suite in vibrant crimson laced with gold that, despite its name, seems to encourage all manner of sins. However, I am led to the discreet private residence. The whole place – four suites – can be rented complete with its own front door; or else rooms can be booked individually with access via a courtyard. The traditional mortice key that

I can’t help but think these bedrooms are designed for a certain type of rendezvous replaces the usual hotel key card makes the Red Striped suite feel like a private bedroom in someone else’s house, which I guess it is. A red bed in the centre of the room is flanked by heavy curtains concealing a private balcony and – as warning to any shy bathers out there – a bath that is entirely exposed. Although the stripy red and white walls fail to charm in the same way as the high glamour of the other suites, I can’t help but think all of the rooms are designed for a certain type of rendezvous. Especially, when, on opening the bedside table drawer, I find a condom wrapped in a black velvet drawstring bag. These discoveries aside, it’s equally alluring for those staying on their own. After a light breakfast of fruit salad in the restaurant the next morning, I spend the remaining few hours before checkout soaking languidly in the tub. Although Blakes stands alongside the more conservative regal residences of

the Royal Borough, the inhabitants tend to be quite different. The hotel claims to provide ‘a home for the free spirit’ and encourages a ‘lust for hedonistic abandon’; a place for ‘lovebirds’ as well as the person who feels the need ‘to wear shades for dinner at midnight’. There’s a truth to bear in mind that nobody knows what happens behind closed doors, least of all at Blakes. From £336 per night, 33 Roland Gardens, SW7,




efore visiting one of the ‘big four’ fashion capitals of the world, Milan, I consulted friends and family about what not to miss. Some spoke ardently of its fast-paced social scene, others less so about the harsh industrial architecture. Armed with a smattering of inside information (most importantly, that an early evening aperitivo is accompanied by complimentary canapés), when I arrived at Milan’s palatial central train station in the slightly weathered north of the city, I was curious as to which side of the fence I would fall. My interest piqued when we weaved across the lanes of the wide boulevards that took us from the station to the city centre (Milanese traffic will almost certainly raise your heart rate), and I peered up at gracefully aged and overgrown buildings. I could sense that Milan was alive, in flux, and that I was going to enjoy it. The start of Milan’s economic prosperity is usually pinpointed to 1906, when it celebrated the completion of the Simplon tunnel to Switzerland by presenting its first World Expo on the theme of transport. It has hosted biannual fashion weeks since 1958 and the seminal furniture and design fair, Salone del Mobile, since 1961. With a population that is the second largest in Italy after Rome, Milan was also coined the country’s ‘moral capital’ in 2015 by its President of the National Anti-Corruption Authority, Raffaele Cantone. He supported his statement by highlighting the development of Milan’s thriving new cultural attractions such as the Fondazione Prada and the World Expo, which the city hosted again in 2015, welcoming 22.2 million visitors. As I approached the centre, the view was dominated by the city’s beacon – the dramatic, gothic Duomo. The city’s sights can be mapped easily from here: the gilded, grandiose Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II; the Royal Palace, usually showing a historical exhibition that commands a queue through the courtyard; and the Scala theatre, rich in history, are all walkable. The Sforza Castle is a longer but simple walk from the Duomo, and it houses enough artefacts to keep you there all afternoon, including Michelangelo’s last incomplete work: the marble sculpture, Rondanini Pietà. Follow this with a stroll to the Indro Montanelli public gardens, a leisurely hour via the city’s golden block of designer shops. When I walked there mid-morning on a spring Saturday – a day of jubilantly blue skies – the streets were serenely quiet. I took shortcuts through hidden squares and side streets and felt like I was the only one ever to have stumbled upon them. Milan might not be decorated with ornate and ancient structures like Florence or Rome, but its upper hand lies in its dynamic character.

city break

Milan History and modernity collide in Italy’s most cosmopolitan city – one which often divides opinion WORDS: marianne dick

Starhotels rosa grand, above and right

Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, image credit: Georgios Tsichlis/

Marchesi 1824, Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, image credit: Naeblys/


Where to stay Since it’s easiest to start at the Duomo and work your way out, Starhotels Rosa Grand Milano boasts an unbeatable location just steps away from this prime spot – centrality lies at the heart of the family-owned hotel chain. As one of just 12 inimitable Starhotels Collezione properties, the Rosa Grand’s modern décor reflects its hip location while a spa and terrace – to lounge on in the warmer months – make it ideal for couples and families alike. The hotel is a Tardis though: guests are well-known to have rung reception in order to be rescued from the winding corridors. From £195 per room per night,

Where to eat image credit: Tatsiana Salayuova/

Pasticceria Marchesi is one of Milan’s proudest local businesses, having served divine confections since 1824. In 2014, the Prada Group acquired 80 per cent of the company and opened two more establishments in the city, one of which is located above the Prada shop in the Galleria Vittorio Milan cathedral, image credit: Boris Emanuele II. The Stroujko/ pistachio-clad interiors, complete with green velvet chairs and cherry wood tables, were designed by Roberto Baciocchi; picture perfect, it could be a set in a Wes Anderson film. I recommend ordering a hot chocolate – so thick you can almost stand a spoon up in it – and a selection of pastries, before sitting back and watching the world go by below.

Don’t miss

image credit: andrea delbo/

Leonardo da Vinci’s 15th-century wall painting of The Last Supper lies in the refectory of the Santa Maria delle Grazie church and Dominican convent, near the Sforza Castle. It was commissioned by the Duke of Milan, Ludovico Sforza, after da Vinci applied to him for employment with a letter that read in part: “in painting, I can do everything possible as well as any other, whosoever he may be”. The Last Supper has survived a bout of mould, numerous restorations and Second World War bombs, making it more than worth the mandatory advance booking. From €5,

suitcase essentials

1 Sun gl a ss e s , £ 1 2 5 , c u b i t t s . co . uk

2 J ack e t, £ 2 2 0 , f i o r ucci , h ar ro d s . co m

3 Note b ook , £ 2 4 . 9 5 , m o g l e a , l i b e r tyl o n d o n . co m

4 h ol d a l l , £ 6 7 5 , l u c afa l o n i . co m


tr ain e r s , £ 4 5 0 , g ucci se l fr i d g e s . co m



a n d

Singing buildings, conveyor-belt sushi, calming zen gardens and overwhelming views – be prepared to words: Hannah Lemon



t’s best to understand Japan in numbers: 6,852 islands, of which only 430 are inhabited, by a population of 127 million (nearly twice the population of the UK). Only then can you really begin to appreciate the intense evolution of fads, fashions and foods that have been crammed into every minute living space like a complex jigsaw puzzle. Talking robots walk alongside traditional geisha and high-speed trains whizz past paddy fields. While there is a charming shabbiness to some areas with telephone wires dangling from buildings, you’ll also bear witness to some of the most efficient ablution systems in the world; lavatories automatically wash, dry, flush and play music for tentative users. Each city simultaneously encompasses retro design and architecture, a fascinatingly rich cultural heritage as well as brash bars and neon lights. It’s a wondrous place of kitsch – lace doilies and net curtains decorate homes, and dogs wearing baby clothes are pushed along in prams. But there

WON DE R F U L be surprised, delighted and often confused by Japan is also a calming serenity to the breathtaking natural views and romantic wooden temples. Some say it’s a love or hate relationship, but with such a humble, gracious people you’ll be won over in an instant. It’s nigh-on impossible to fit all this into one trip, but a 10-day tour of Honshu, Japan’s biggest island, is a good place to start.


Namba dotonbori AREA IN OSAKA image credit: Mosay May/ shutterstock.COm

Day 1-2


There aren’t any non-stop flights from London to Osaka, but the best value for time seems to be Finnair, which flies from Heathrow to Helsinki in about three hours and then on to Kansai International Airport in nine and a half. Osaka is a great introduction to the mad metropolitan ways of Japan. Spend the evening walking down Shinsaibashi-suji, the main shopping street, and you’ll discover curious displays of plastic food advertising restaurant fare; pet shops with cutesy miniature cats and dogs; high-pitched jingles springing out of shops; and giant moving octopus tentacles and crab claws on the side of buildings. People-watching alone provides hours of entertainment. Okonomiyaki is the city’s pride and joy – a sort of pancake-style mishmash of batter, shrimp, pork and cabbage topped with a rich brown sauce. Pull up a chair – and a bottle of Kirin beer – with locals at Hozenji-yokocho yakizen restaurant and get front row seats at the small galley kitchen to watch the chefs sweat up a storm.

Stay: Swissôtel Nankai Osaka, located above Namba station, provides easy access to the city. It’s worth paying extra for access to the executive lounge. From £193, including service charge and breakfast,

Osaka is a great introduction to the mad metropolitan ways of Japan THE EXECUTIVE LOUNGE AT Swissôtel Nankai OsakA


Clockwise from left: a-bomb dome, image Credit: Navapon Plodprong; hiroshima, image credit: Tupungato; chains of paper cranes, image credit: picture partners, all IMAGES courtesy of shutterstockcom

diagnosed with leukemia 10 years after the explosion. You can also see the skeleton of a conference building that was at the centre of the destruction, a constant reminder of the atrocities.

Stay: Ana Crowne Plaza Hiroshima is designed more for business trips and meetings than indulgence, but is handily positioned for tourists. From ¥7,900 (approx. £53) room only,

Day 4

Day 2-3


Buy a rail pass online within 90 days of your trip to access the majority of lines across Japan (for more information visit The best part about the high-speed and systematically punctual trains is watching the efficient team of cleaners bow passengers off and then charge on board to change headrest covers and swivel seats around to face the correct direction of travel. From Osaka, in under two hours you’ll be walking the spacious streets of Hiroshima. Hardly any signs are written in English, so the best way to get around is with Google Maps. A commercial city, it’s not the prettiest of Japan’s attractions, but most people aren’t here for relaxation. The Hiroshima Peace Memorial details the effects of the atomic bomb that was dropped by the US at the end of the Second World War. Exhibits reveal the devastating aftermath of the blast which led to serious burns, radiation sickness and cancer. Groups of school children can be seen crafting reams of origami in rememberance of Sadako Sasaki, a little girl who attempted to make 1,000 paper cranes before her death, after she was


For some light relief from Hiroshima, take a day trip to Miyajima. Regarded as the ‘Island of Gods’, it is home to the World Heritage site of Itsukushima Shrine, best known for its floating orange gate. Hike or take the cable car up to Mount Misen and meander through the Virgin Forest watching out for the overly confident deer. An astounding vista over the azure Seto Inland Sea awaits you at the top. Among the many temples to see, be sure to stop at Yumi Katsura’s love sanctuary to pray for ‘magical encounters’ and ‘blissful marriages’. Tiny stone Jizo statues line the pathways that are decorated with hats and glasses by parents who have lost children. Back at the bottom, order a large plate of slimy oysters (they go for size over substance), followed by a much more rewarding momiji manjyu, a maple leaf-shaped pastry filled with sweet red bean paste.

Stay: Another night at Ana Crowne Plaza Hiroshima

Ana Crowne Plaza Hiroshima

TOP: a jizo statue, image CREDIT: Jerome LABOUYRIE; bOTTOM: Itsukushima Shrine, image cREDIT: Sean Pavone, both IMAGES courtesy of SHUTTERSTOCK.COM


eggs. Though you might want to save your appetite for a rooftop izakaya (a Japanese ‘pub’) by Shijo-dori bridge. Slurp through a kaiseki lunch of dainty dishes, including tempura and unidentifiable pickled vegetables, while you kneel on a tatami mat overlooking the river. Save the traditional Gion neighbourhood for nighttime when it is more lively and you might spot a geisha at dusk. Arashiyama is also a must-see: be transported to the countryside with the calming waters of the impressive Katsura River and nearby bamboo forest.

Stay: For a ryokan

Day 5-7

experience (a traditional Japanese inn with tatami floors and futon beds), check into Hoshinoya Kyoto. Staff pick you up by boat and take you to a secluded hotel built into the forest, complete with incense-making and menus from executive chef Ichiro Kubota of the Michelin-starred Umu restaurant back in London.


The Imperial capital for more than 1,000 years, this dignified city maintains its status as Japan’s cultural centre. Leafy suburbs make walking around temples a pleasure, although choosing which of the 1,600-plus to visit can be challenging. A walk – or short bus ride – between Ninna-ji, Ryoan-ji and Kinkaku-ji to the west provides a light introduction to the different types of temple, from a peaceful Buddhist residence, to stark white stone zen garden, to ornate Golden Pavilion. Further east, get wrapped up in a kimono and wooden clogs at the Nishijin Textile Centre, then take a long walk through the Imperial Palace gardens towards Kawaramachi station. The grid of streets is easy to navigate and you’ll stumble across a haven of trendy stores selling modern homeware alongside intricately painted Japanese pottery. Pass through Nishiki Market to see all manner of edible sea creatures, from giant sea cucumbers to octopus heads stuffed with boiled

From ¥81,000 per night (approx. £542), including tax and service charge, excluding meals,, FROM TOP: arashiyama bamboo forest; dining at hoshinoya kyoto; boat ride to hoshinoya kyoto, all images courtesy of hoshinoya kyoto; Suiran, a Luxury Collection Hotel, image CREDIT: RALF TOOTEN

On the other side of the river is Suiran, a Luxury Collection Hotel, for less fuss and easy access. Book a room with a private onsen – the perfect way to unwind after a long day of sightseeing. From ¥70,000 (approx. £468), room only, excluding tax and service charge,


Day 7-9



A visit to Japan is only complete when you’ve laid eyes on Mount Fuji, best done from one of the surrounding five lakes. Lake Kawaguchi is perhaps the most famous, although the attractions around the edge of the waters are a tad parochial. There’s the all-singing and dancing Music Forest, the dubious-sounding Monkey Theatre (literally theatre by monkeys), a quaint art museum and a selection of twee cafés. To really make the most of Fuji, pull on your hiking boots for a walk around the lake or up the sacred volcano – it last erupted in 1707. Ideally, coincide your trip with one of the many local festivals, whether that’s the Shibazakura Festival in April and May, which sees a vibrant blanket of bright pink phlox moss appear, or the Fireworks Festival in August.

Stay: Hoshinoyo Fuji is far and away the most

magical way to immerse yourself in the landscape. Canoeing, horse riding, wood cutting, forest walks, nature tours, camp fires spent toasting broadbeans and drinking rosé, silent films under the stars – all in the height of luxury. From ¥45,000 per night (approx. £300), including tax and service charge, excluding meals,

Day 9-10

Really, the colourful capital requires its own 10 days to explore


Where to begin? Really, the colourful capital requires its own 10 days for exploration. But when time is limited make sure you tick off the essentials: a trip up the Skytree observation tower to fully comprehend the startling expanse of buildings; karaoke; temples; a drink AMAN TOKYO in a tachinomi – a stand-up bar solely frequented by businessmen; dinner at a kaitenzushi, a conveyor-belt sushi restaurant where you order food on a screen and the arrival of plates is announced by a little celebratory tune – try the favoured Kappa Sushi chain for reliability. If all else fails, wandering the streets will provide amusement enough.

skytree, credit: captain hook/

Stay: Aman Tokyo never fails to deliver

understated opulence, with a nod to local culture and the added bonus of great views. From ¥90,000 room only (approx. £600), excluding tax and service charge,


regulars back in time

Beau Brummell W O R D S : C at h e r i n e R a g g e t t


he great 19th-century romantic poet Lord Byron said there were three great men of his age: himself, Napoleon and Beau Brummell. Even without knowing anything about the dandy Beau Brummell, his French nickname meaning ‘beautiful’ drops a heavy hint to his stylish reputation. Born George Bryan Brummell on 7 June 1778 in Downing Street, where his father worked as private secretary to Lord North, he arrived into a middle class family who longed for their son to be a gentleman. Brummell attended the top private educational institutions of Eton and the University of Oxford, but it was his friendship with the Prince Regent – later to become George IV – and brazen wit that catapulted him into high society, where he was to make his mark as a leading man of fashion. At the time, ruffs and elaborate trousers filled with decoration and colour were the popular fashion statement of choice. Brummell, however, reduced the palette to four colours: cream, white, navy and black, and streamlined clothes so that previously puffy trousers looked as though they had been painted on. His jackets were fitted to the waist and then cut away so as to make a penguin tail at the back. “To be elegant, one has not to be noticed,” said Brummell, a man who allegedly took five hours to get dressed. Friends, including George IV, would call at his house to witness this spectacle in action. It was a task that involved rebutting the trendy beards of the day



with daily shaving, choosing elaborate cravats, before finishing the look with boots that Brummell reportedly polished with champagne. The frivolities of the high life soon took its toll, and despite the generous inheritance he received from his parents of £30,000 (several million in today’s currency), he began to strike up heavy debts, largely at the Watier’s private members’ club in Mayfair, of which he was president. Brummell’s once tight rapport with the Prince Regent began to stretch (much like the latter’s waistline), and it reached breaking point when the Prince Regent ignored Brummell at a party. The snubbed gentleman responded by guffawing to a mutual acquaintance within earshot: “Alvanley, who is your fat friend?” Brummell was soon cut from society and fled to France for more than a decade to avoid debtors’ prison. His wayward actions soon caught up with him, however, and he was incarcerated for a few months before being rescued by friends in England. “Imagine a position more wretched than mine,” he declared. “They have put me with all the common people. I am surrounded by the greatest villains, and have nothing but prison fare.” Despite his release, Brummell died penniless in a French asylum on 30 March 1840, aged 61, of syphilis. His celebrity status as a Regency fashion icon might not rival the mainstream popularity of the likes of Cara Delevingne and David Gandy today, but his wit and fashion legacy certainly make Brummell hard to forget.

Image courtesy of rokstone

showcasing the finest homes & property from the best estate agents


demand Head-turning houses in London’s most glamorous postcodes

Market insight Welcome news Partner and head of Knight Frank Mayfair, Harvey Cyzer


Cabinet reshuffle in early January resulted in the appointment of the 16th housing minister in 20 years, and the third of Theresa May’s premiership. However, amid the revolving door of housing ministers, housing has also become a Cabinet post, with Savid Javid now heading a newly created Ministry for Housing, Communities and Local Government – something for which we at Knight Frank have been calling for in recent years. This is a welcome move, even if it is largely symbolic; as it underlines the government’s determination to address housing issues across the country, not least a lack of supply. Most notably, average prices in prime central London fell 0.7 per cent in 2017, the smallest annual decline since June 2016. On a local level, areas within prime central London including Mayfair continue to record a growth in price while activity levels also continue to rise – a further sign that the market is in recovery mode. 020 8166 7484,

one to watch South Street, £11.5m This elegant and newly refurbished three-bedroom apartment is situated on the second floor of a highly regarded period building, offering beautiful views over the tranquil Mount Street Gardens in central Mayfair. The property combines style and quality of the highest level and has been exquisitely designed with entertaining in mind, while benefiting from lift access and 24-hour porterage. South Street is referred to as one of Mayfair’s most sought-after addresses and is perfectly placed to enjoy the abundance of boutique shops and fine dining spots that this historic part of the capital has to offer.


The waiting game

chiltern place

Partner and head of Knight Frank Marylebone, Christian Lock-Necrews


onsidering that estate agents normally spend January concentrating on filling windows with new properties for sale, this year we have actually experienced a greater than predicted appetite to transact. Our local office concluded five exchanges totalling £18.5 million and agreed the sale of two properties, in addition to multiple bids on other homes. This isn’t to say we expect the market to suddenly take off like it did in 2006/2007 or 2012/2013. Indeed, buyers remain cautious; however there is no question that some are “calling the bottom” as they take advantage of a number of guide price adjustments that make a tangible difference. The best buyer in today’s market is the individual or family that has spent considerable time looking. Three or four years ago we may have registered a new customer who would then transact in a matter of days,

weeks or months; now we register buyers who may take six months or a year before they feel ready to make a decision. In reality, what all these buyers actually see during that time is a lack of dramatic price movement – the rapid decline they may have been waiting for hasn’t appeared. While some properties have had notable asking price adjustments, it’s highly likely that many buyers who have watched those properties in the background then end up being surprised to find themselves in a multiple bid scenario only to lose out on the home they’ve been waiting for. It’s also worth mentioning the recent stock market movements. For some investors this will make property more attractive. As a closing offer I would like to invite anyone interested in visiting one of our most recently completed prime developments, Chiltern Place, to get in touch. We’d be delighted to show you around. 020 3641 7938,


Gloucester Square, Hyde Park W2 A generously proportioned family house on an attractive garden square A generously proportioned family house located on and with access to one of London's finest garden squares situated close to Connaught Village and the open spaces of Hyde Park. 6 bedrooms, 4 bathrooms, drawing room, library, dining room, study, kitchen, cloakroom, terrace. EPC: C. Approximately 456.2 sq m (4,911 sq ft).   Freehold

Guide price: £7,950,000 020 3544 6140    


12 Gloucester Square - Mayfair Mag HP - April 2016

14/02/2018 18:02:31



Bathurst Street, Hyde Park W2 An incredible six bedroom home with magnificent Art Deco staircase This spacious family house is located moments from the pretty boutiques and restaurants of Connaught Village and the green spaces of Hyde Park. 6 bedrooms (2 en suite), 3 bathrooms, dressing room, double reception room, dining room, kitchen, utility room, patio, garden, 3 outdoor cellars. EPC: E. Approximately: 320.6 sq m (3,425 sq ft).    

Guide price: £5,250,000 020 3544 6140  


Mayfair magazine - March 2018

13/02/2018 12:37:20


This Spring, with Knight Frank Mayfair. Our understanding of the everchanging market enables us to price your property accurately, so you can rely on Knight Frank to get you moving. Call us today to arrange your free market appraisal. 020 8166 7484 Guide price: £2,250,000

Mount Street, Mayfair W1K A one bedroom lateral apartment located within a beautiful red brick building on one of Mayfair's most desirable streets. Bedroom, bathroom, reception/dining room, kitchen, balcony.  EPC: D. Approximately 65 sq m (700 sq ft). Office: 020 8166 7484



Guide price: £7,250,000

Grosvenor Hill, Mayfair W1K An elegant and beautifully lit three bedroom apartment, situated within an exclusive, newly built development. 3 bedrooms, 3 bathrooms, open plan reception/kitchen area, hallway, lift, concierge. EPC: C. Approximately 157.2 sq m (1,692 sq ft). Office: 020 8166 7484

Mayfair Mag Sales March page 1

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This Spring, with Knight Frank Mayfair.

Guide price: £2,495,000

Dunraven Street, Mayfair W1K A spacious one bedroom apartment situated on the first floor of a stunning period building offering views over the exclusive Green Street Gardens. Bedroom, bathroom, reception/dining room, kitchen, utility room, hallway. EPC: D. Approximately 80.5 sq m (867 sq ft). Office: 020 8166 7484

We pride ourselves on being your local agent with an international network. To speak with a member of your local Knight Frank team, please call us on 020 8166 7484 or drop by our office on Mount Street. 020 8166 7484  


Guide price: £10,950,000

Adams Row, Mayfair W1K An exceptional freehold townhouse in the heart of the Mayfair village. 4 bedrooms, 5 bathrooms, kitchen/reception room, dining room, a further reception room, gym, cinema, utility room, steam room, guest cloakroom, private double garage. EPC: E. Approximately 356.2 sq m (3,834 sq ft). Office: 020 8166 7484

Mayfair Mag Sales March page 2

13/02/2018 13:15:23

Upper Montagu Street, Marylebone W1 A bright and immaculately presented two bedroom apartment A spectacular, newly refurbished two bedroom apartment located within a beautiful, highly sought after period mansion block (with a daytime porter). Luxury master bedroom (with en suite shower room), second double bedroom, white marble bathroom, large reception room, separate contemporary fully fitted kitchen, 2 patios. EPC: D. Approximately 102.6 sq m (1,104 sq ft).   Leasehold: approximately 971 years remaining

Guide price: £1,350,000 020 3641 7938  


mandf 1

13/02/2018 12:18:41



Harley Street, Marylebone W1 Grade II listed duplex four bedroom apartment A rare opportunity to acquire this interior designed apartment, benefiting from lift access. Master bedroom (with en suite), 3 further bedrooms, family bathroom, shower room, large double aspect reception room, dining room/open plan fully fitted Bulthaup kitchen, separate guest cloakroom. EPC: C. Approximately 186.2 sq m (2,004 sq ft).   Leasehold: approximately 146 years remaining

Guide price: £3,950,000 020 3641 7938  


mandf 2

12/02/2018 11:02:46

Mansfield Street, Marylebone W1 Luxury two bedroom penthouse in exclusive mansion block A magnificent two bedroom penthouse apartment with a large a terrace providing rooftop views over the London skyline, situated in one of Marylebone's most desirable buildings (with lift access and 24 hour porter). Master bedroom (with en suite), second bedroom, shower room, spacious double reception room/dining room, separate kitchen. EPC: F. Approximately 111.48 sq m (1,200 sq ft). Leasehold: approximately 131 years remaining 

Guide price: £3,375,000

mandf 3 020 3641 7938  


13/02/2018 12:16:44

1 5 0 Y E A R S I N T H E M A K I NG

ow complete

APARTMENTS FROM £810,000* READY TO MOVE IN TODAY. *Price correct at time of going to press.

VI S I T O U R NEW S HOW APARTMENTS +44 (0)20 7205 2166 | Gasholders, 1 Lewis Cubitt Square, London N1C 4BY Photography by Tina Hillier, January 2018

A COLLECTION OF SEVEN LUXURY RESIDENCES LOCATED IN ST JAMES’S, LONDON Oceanic House presents the rare opportunity to purchase a unique apartment at the heart of London’s West End, in an exclusive new development steeped in history. The imposing former White Star Line headquarters - the booking office of the glamorous Titanic ocean liner - has been sensitively redeveloped to provide six apartments and one two-storey penthouse for private sale.

FIVE 2-3 BEDROOM APARTMENTS & THE PENTHOUSE AVAILABLE For more information please contact Joint Sole Agents:

Paul Finch +44 (0)20 7022 9831

Simon Fernandes +44 (0) 20 7318 4677

PORTMAN SQUARE MARYLEBONE W1 AN IMMACULATELY PRESENTED FIVE BEDROOM APARTMENT This recently refurbished lateral apartment offers c. 2,603 sqft of living accommodation. Benefitting from exceptional entertaining space with a spacious double reception room/dining room and fully fitted Poggenpohl kitchen/breakfast room. Located on the eastern side of Portman Square, Orchard Court is a 1930’s purpose built block with twenty-four hour uniformed porterage, a grand reception foyer and an arched approach. Accommodation: Entrance hall, double reception room, kitchen/breakfast room, master bedroom with ensuite bathroom, 4 further bedrooms, 3 ensuite shower rooms, guest shower room, guest cloakroom. Amenities: Lutron lighting, air conditioning throughout, lift, 24-hour porterage.

w w w. b eau ea u c h am a m p . co com m


Richard Douglas

£6,950 000


+44 (0)20 7593 8148

Joint Sole Agents

6 5 Wey mou t h St reet , Mary lebon e, Lon don , W1 G 8NU

MONTPELIER STREET KNIGHTSBRIDGE SW7 A BRIGHT AND MODERN TWO BEDROOM APARTMENT Filled with natural light, Montpelier Street benefits from wooden floors, an open plan reception/dining room and a bespoke fitted kitched. Located just minutes from the amenities of Knightsbridge and is a short walk to both Knightsbridge Underground Station (Piccadilly line) and Sloane Square Underground Station (District and Circle lines). Accommodation: Entrance hall, reception/dining room, kitchen, master bedroom with ensuite shower room, bedroom 2, guest bathroom. Amenities: Entry phone.

Francesca Fox


Furnished (Long Let)




+44 (0)20 7205 2598









Grosvenor Square, Mayfair The Grosvenor Square Apartments are located in desirable Mayfair, between the wonderful, green, open spaces of Hyde Park and the vibrant, cosmopolitan bustle of the West End. Luxury retailers are a five minute walk away as are many of London’s finest dining experiences.

Pegasi Management Company Limited 207 Sloane Street London SW1X 9QX E: | T: +44 (0)207 245 4500

Ad Copy: Kay & Co, 24-25 Albion Street, W2 / @kayandco1982 Buchanans, 5A Porchester Place, W2 / @ buchanans_cheese

Connaught Cellars, 8 Porchester Place, W2 / @connaughtcellars

The Broker The Cheesemaker The Fine Wine Retailer We know Hyde Park; from the cheesemonger on Porchester Place to the aromatic notes of the Connaught Cellars, and for 35 years we’ve helped its residents settle, move and grow their lives in this extraordinary area.

If you’re buying, selling or renting in Marylebone, Hyde Park, or Fitzrovia, talk to us. It’s what we do.

020 393 0 4871 K AYA N D C O.C O M

Inverness Terrace –


A luxurious two bedroom, raised ground and first floor apartment in Bayswater Apartments, a pair of meticulously refurbished stucco fronted grade II listed buildings. Bayswater Apartments offers a high specification finish with daytime concierge services.




Inverness Terrace –


This magnificent grade II listed, two bed, two bathroom apartment is situated on the lower ground floor of a wonderful period conversion. Benefiting from a private landscaped patio garden, key-secured direct lift access and guest cloakroom facilities, the accommodation includes a large private entrance hall, open plan reception room and contemporary kitchen. The ornate plasterwork and stunning sash windows complete this striking and light-filled reception space.



K AY & C O H Y D E PA R K & B AY S W AT E R 020 3930 4871 K AYA N D C O . C O M


Nottingham Place –


A stunning 4th and 5th floor maisonette set within a well kept period building that features a wonderful open plan reception space as well as two bedrooms and two bathrooms, that has been fully refurbished. Nottingham Place is situated nearby to Marylebone High Street only moments from Baker Street. EPC rating: C

£1,495,000 –


Hanway Place –


A two bedroom duplex apartment situated within a converted Victorian school house in the heart of the West End. The property is in good condition throughout and benefits from exposed brickwork, large windows and double height ceilings. Hanway Place is a quiet backwater running between Oxford Street and Tottenham Court Road, so ideally placed for the imminent arrival of Crossrail. The amenities of Fitzrovia, Soho and Covent Garden are all in the immediate vicinity. EPC rating: D

£1,450,000 –




£2,500 per week Furnished

3 Bedrooms I 3 Bathrooms I Sonos Sound System I Secluded Roof Terrace I Air Conditioning I Underfloor Heating I Quiet Location Outstanding newly refurbished mews house with a secluded roof terrace quietly located in this charming Mayfair cobbled mews close to Piccadilly. Stunning ground floor eat in kitchen/dining room + guest cloakroom lead from a glass panelled staircase to the reception room and three double bedrooms with fitted robes and tiled bathrooms/shower rooms on the upper floors FURTHER DETAILS FOR ALL LETTINGS CONTACT: +44 (0)20 3195 9595 48 Curzon Street, London, W1J 7UL


£3,250,000 Virtual Freehold

Dual Aspect Reception Room | Bespoke Kitchen | Large Master Suite | Roof Terrace A 3 bedroom maisonette with a bright south facing roof terrace. Located in the heart of Shepherd Market, this attractive property is set over 3 floors and has been finished in a contemporary style to an excellent specification.


£5,950,000 Share of Freehold

4 Bedrooms I Period Building I High Ceilings I Own Entrance I Swimming Pool I Communal Gardens Spanning 3,852 square feet, the property offers an exceptionally versatile entertaining space with three/four bedrooms, swimming pool and access to one of London’s coveted garden squares. FURTHER DETAILS FOR ALL SALES CONTACT: +44 (0)20 3879 8989 11 Curzon Street, London, W1J 5HJ



8 Elystan Street Chelsea London SW3 3NS T. +44 (0)20 3953 1000 E. contact@pastor–

48 Curzon Street Mayfair London W1J 7UL T. +44 (0)20 3195 9595 E. contact@pastor–

11 Curzon Street Mayfair London W1J 5HJ T. +44 (0)20 3879 8989 E. contact@pastor–


SHOW APARTMENT NOW OPEN 47 contemporary 1, 2 & 3 bedroom apartments in Pimlico, London.

- Excellent Zone 1 transport links from Victoria, Pimlico & Sloane Square

Prices from ÂŁ799,000

- High quality specifications and spacious interiors - Balconies or terraces*

Move in Q2 2018 Register your interest | 020 3319 3515

- Secure underground parking

SELLING AGENT *Terms and conditions apply. Balconies are plot specific, please speak to sales advisor. All information is correct at the time of going to press. CGI is indicative only.

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Mayfair Showroom 66 Grosvenor Street, London, W1K 3JL 28 offices in central London and over 60 across the capital

St James’s Place, SW1A £5,650,000

An elegant Grade II Listed townhouse which is presented in excellent condition throughout. This house is full of period features including original panelling and sash windows. There are three reception rooms, five bedrooms, five bathrooms and a patio terrace. Dexters Mayfair 020 7590 9590

Park Street, W1K £3,950,000

A spectacular two bedroom apartment located within this beautiful Georgian house. The property has a double reception room with an open plan kitchen, a terrace and two bathrooms. Further benefits include a spa, a wine cellar and air-conditioning, energy rating f. Dexters Mayfair 020 7590 9590

South Audley Street, W1K £6,000 per week

This five bedroom townhouse is located in the heart of Mayfair. The house is arranged across six floors and has three reception rooms, a separate kitchen and four bathrooms. The property has a private rear garden with a two-tier terrace, energy rating e. Dexters Mayfair 020 7590 9595

Hays Mews, W1J £1,950 per week

Located off Berkeley Square, this three bedroom mews apartment has been refurbished to a high standard throughout. Further benefits include a vaulted ceiling in the double reception room and access to the communal garden, energy rating e. Dexters Mayfair 020 7590 9595 Tenants fees apply: £180 per tenancy towards administration, £60 reference fee per tenant and £144 for a professional check in (All inc of VAT).

Hot properties Six postcodes and pads to keep an eye on this spring


Hyde Park Gardens, £15m “This truly exceptional Grade II-listed luxury apartment is located in a prime position overlooking Hyde Park and offers access to the beautiful award-winning private communal gardens.” – John White, associate and office head, Knight Frank Hyde Park,


South Audley Street, £6.9m “This particularly special property on a historic street has been impeccably designed to the highest of standards incorporating the latest technology with classic period features. It also offers rare views over the treetops of the renowned Mount Street gardens.” – Alastair Nicholson, partner, Knight Frank Mayfair


Bickenhall Mansions, £2.25m “A superb three-bedroom apartment, beautifully finished to combine period proportions with modern contemporary interiors.” – Ali Mathews, negotiator


4 Stafford Court, £995 per week “This two-bedroom, two-bathroom apartment mixes the essence of an edgy New York loft with a classic London theme – exposed red brick feature walls, moody wood-panelled bedrooms, quirky geometric prints and brass accents throughout.” – Jo Upton, property director

Charles Street, £9m


“This is a unique five-bedroom property – an incredible Georgian townhouse with masses of character and original features, including an adjoining mews house. It offers the incoming purchaser huge potential for renovation or adaptation, subject to planning permission.” – David Lee, head of sales

Mount Street, £2.25m


“This perfectly configured first-floor apartment in the heart of Mayfair is a rare find, boasting much in-demand high ceilings and original features. The building also benefits from a beautiful balcony where one can sit and overlook fashionable Mount Street.” – Becky Fatemi, managing director




Mansfield Street

London W1G

A stunning apartment comprising a grand double aspect reception room, two bedrooms, modern kitchen and bathroom. No.2 Mansfield Street is one of the finest historical mansion blocks within Marylebone. The block has a team of porters operating 24 hours a day to ensure an extremely well run and secure building, creating a private and luxurious atmosphere. It is ideally located for the boutique shops and restaurants of Marylebone High Street, the world renowned shopping of Oxford Street and the green open spaces of nearby Regent’s Park. EPC rating C

ÂŁ1,695,000 leasehold


020 7629 4513


Abels a thoroughbred amongst movers.

• UK Residential Removals • Worldwide Relocations • Weekly European Removals • Storage Services • Car Transportation & Storage • Office & Commercial Moving • Antiques, Fine Art Packing, Storing & Moving Telephone: 020 3468 9616 E-Mail:

Memb No: A001

Abels Rocking Horse ad 297x210mm.indd 3

FS 23942


29/11/2017 09:11

Welbeck Street, Marylebone W1


A beautifully refurbished mid-terrace townhouse located in the heart of Marylebone Village. This


substantial six bedroom family home measures approximately 4291 ft2 (399 m2) in total and is laid out

»»Six Bedrooms

over seven floors with the benefit of a passenger lift. The house benefits from planning permission

»»Passenger Lift

for a first floor roof terrace at the rear of the property, as well as boasting air conditioning and an integrated AV touch screen sound and lighting system throughout. The house offers extremely good value for prime Marylebone equating to only £1,456.54/ ft2.

»»Air Conditioning »»Planning Permission for a First Floor Roof Terrace »»Approximately 4291 ft2 (399 m2) »»Located in Prime Marylebone

Welbeck Street is conveniently located for the boutique shops and restaurants of Marylebone High Street and Mayfair as well as the world renowned shops of the West End. The transport links are excellent with nearby Bond Street and Marble Arch underground stations.

020 7580 2030 WWW.ROKSTONE.COM 5 Dorset Street, London, W1U 6QJ






Currently laid out with ten double bedrooms, mostly park-facing with en-suite bathrooms, and an additional two staff bedrooms, this family residence is truly a ‘villa in the sky’.

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£26,500,000 LONG LEASEHOLD

WETHERELL 102 Mount Street, London W1K 2TH T: 020 7529 5566 E:



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R ed Pr u ic c e t io n

South Audley Street

R ed Pr u ic c e t io n

G D ar u d pl e ex n


Mount Row

Green Street



Fa c

Be T d w r o o o m

in So g ut La h t er


THE ART OF Upper grosvenor Street

Upper Brook Street



bringing residential life back to mayfair

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t e c rr fe e r -t Pe -à ed pi

e on ic ti Pr uc ed R

Park Street

Park Lane



d e l ar ho Sh ee Fr

f o

h gs ig n H li ei C

North Audley Street

Chesterfield Gardens




MAYFAIR UNDER £5MILLION Whether you want modern, Art Deco or a blank canvas, Wetherell have the finest collection of Mayfair properties.

102 Mount Street, London W1K 2TH T: 020 7493 6935 E:

no-one knows mayfair better than wetherell


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+44 2072 872 692


The Mayfair Magazine March  

The Mayfair magazine celebrates the dynamism of the area and brings you the latest features, articles and reviews in the definitive guide fo...

The Mayfair Magazine March  

The Mayfair magazine celebrates the dynamism of the area and brings you the latest features, articles and reviews in the definitive guide fo...