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AUTUMN / WINTER 1 7 / 1 8

I s s u e N O3

All the world’s a

stage

From bridal journeys and jewellery trends, to special timepieces and Christmas inspiration, experience the latest in luxury at David M Robinson

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JEWELLERY BRIDAL WATCHES dmr world

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14 quick news round-up the latest pieces wortH taking note of

The Cufflinks A pair of 18ct rose gold cross cufflinks from Patek Philippe’s Calatrava collection £4,000

The Watch The TAG Heuer Monaco, a timeless classic worn by Steve McQueen £1,850

The Earrings Georg Jensen’s mathematical Möbius earrings in sterling silver £295

Welcome

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Welcome to issue N O 3 of d’amour times

o here we are, with our third edition of D’Amour Times – doesn’t time fly? We’ve had great feedback on the previous two editions and we hope we can continue to give you a real insight into the world of fine jewellery and luxury watches at David M Robinson. The world of luxury retailing is changing quite dramatically and you’ll see from our website why so many people are using online sources for their research. As a creative company we understand our obligations to bring you what’s new in our world, even if the tools our goldsmiths use on a daily basis hardly ever change. It is estimated that about 10 per cent of luxury now ‘happens’ online, but from our perspective we see more and more people happily visiting our showrooms. What happens in store, the little moments of magic we see each day, is really what makes us tick (excuse the pun!). What we can do for our customers and what we want to do for them, knows no bounds. We even had a case recently where we arranged for the Vicar at the church in St Ann’s Square, Manchester, to come into the store and bless a couple’s wedding rings. We regularly see tears of joy and a lot of laughter and it goes without saying that as we get to know couples embarking on their bridal journey, the variety of the weddings taking place never ceases to amaze us. It remains our privilege to simply play our part. Before I sign off, I would just like to say a specific thank you to my team in St Ann’s Square. The terrible events that took place in May put a bright spotlight on our team as the famous square at the very heart of the city began to transform into a sea of flowers. The DMR team played a real part in making sure that the outpouring of love and emotion was as welcome inside our showroom as it was in the square. To the hundreds of our customers who popped in to share their thoughts, thank you.

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Contents

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JEWELLERY

BRIDAL

05 Trend Setter

11 Bespoke Commissions

A round up of the biggest trends of 2017, from birthstones to flowers 07 Party Pieces Stay sparkling over the festive season, with the best jewellery for any occasion 09 Lunar at 10 DMR celebrates the 10th anniversary of the exclusive Lunar collection

Behind the scenes with some of DMR’s latest unique designs 12 Engaging History Looking back in time over the long history of the engagement ring 13 A Gift for Groomsmen Treat your groomsmen to an unforgettable gift from Montblanc

WATCHES

dmr world

Lady Gaga and David Beckham are the faces of Tudor’s latest campaign 16 The Best of Times TAG Heuer pays tribute to Formula One legend Ayrton Senna

Our watchmaker on the benefits of DMR’s second-to-none facilities 19 After Sales: Julie Speechly The DMR secret behind after sales success? Keeping it personal

15 Born to Dare

19 After Sales: Mike Brooks

I look forward to seeing you in store soon.

on the coVER

Kind regards

Emerald-cut engagement ring, £74,000 Diamond set wedding band, £1,250

John robinson

Photography Jay Mawson styling Natalie Armin Location FiveFour Studios

managing director david m robinson

David M Robinson x Graham & Brown

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the renowned jeweller and wallpaper manufacturer collaborate on a new social media partnership

s two family-owned businesses in the northwest, it makes perfect sense that David M Robinson and Lancashirebased wallpaper manufacturer Graham & Brown have launched a social media collaboration. “We are continuing to develop our presence online and across social media,” says DMR managing director John Robinson. “ We understand that social media is a vital output for businesses in all industries in 2017. Partnerships such as this with Graham & Brown are a fantastic way increase our online identity.” Both companies have innovation and excellent

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manufacturing at the heart of their business, and a selection of DMR’s iconic collections of diamond jewellery have been photographed alongside a number of Graham & Brown’s new releases for 2017. It features DMR’s Lattice, Cleo, Whirlwind and Loop da Loop collections, alongside Graham & Brown’s Zen, Indigo, Aura, Wild Flower and Boheme Stripe. “The wallpapers chosen from our exclusive online collection elegantly complement the wonderful David M Robinson range,” says Alan Kemp, head of brand at Graham & Brown. Watch this space. ●

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TIMES

Clockwise from top left Lattice Cuff £12,500 Earrings £8,950 Bangle £7,900 Graham & Brown: ‘Aura’ Loop Da Loop Pendant £1,950 Ring £1,750 Graham & Brown: ‘Wild flower’ Whirlwind Pendant £5,250 Graham & Brown: ‘Boheme Stripe’ Cleo Ring £4,500 Cleo Bangle £9,650 Graham & Brown: ‘Zen’ Georg Jensen Savannah BANGLE £275 Torun BANGLE £275; Marcia bangle £450 Graham & Brown: ‘Indigo’ w w w. d av i d m r o b i n s o n . c o . u k

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JEWELLERY

Aquamarine ring £4,430 iniziale pendant £495

clover diamond pendant £895

Personal touch

Floral

motifs

meander diamond and sapphire bangle £5,750

Trend setter

clover diamond earrings £995

a look back at the top jewellery trends of 2017, from birthstones to flowers

surround double ellipse earrings £7,950

Drop

meander diamond drop earrings £3,450

infinity full diamond ring £4,750

Loop Da Loop New collection Loop Da Loop is crafted in 18ct rose gold. Its modern, asymmetrical shape has added glamour, with round brilliant-cut diamonds set within circle shapes. Standout pieces include a pendant and double band ring. “Loop Da Loop is the perfect collection to be styled up or down,” says David M Robinson’s buying manager Carleeann Taylor. “A versatile suite, it’s the perfect option for the coming season,” she adds. ●

Infinity

earrings

symbols

tourmaline moonstone earrings £3,750

infinity earrings £3,050

From top: Loop Da Loop ring £1,750; Loop Da Loop pendant £1,950

whirlwind

THREE of the best gifts that will always be well received

One of two new collections this season whirlwind is whimsical and romantic. buy the whole suite, or mix and match with other collections

ruby and diamond eternity ring £3,750

whirlwind earrings £2,250 whirlwind ring £2,450

thames cufflinks £125

whirlwind bangle £5,250 Georg Jensen moonlight grapes earrings £160

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@ D av i d _ MR o b i n s o n

whirlwind earrings £2,850

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whirlwind pendant £5,250

he Whirlwind collection features a curved pattern framing a single round brilliant-cut diamond set at the centre, with pavé diamonds along the curve. Managing director John Robinson says, “Introducing our clients to the newest exclusive collections is something that always excites us. As designers at heart, the story and inspirations behind our collections are important to us, and we look forward to clients making their own memories with these precious pieces.” Romantic and delicate, the Whirlwind collection is discreet enough for daily use, while remaining luxurious. It is available across rings, earrings, necklaces and bracelets. ●

“as designers at heart, the story and inspirations behind our collections are important to us, and we look forward to clients making their own memories with these precious pieces”

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Whirlwind Collection Whirlwind drop earrings £2,850 Whirlwind ring £2,450 Whirlwind pendant £5,250 whirldwind bangle £5,250 WHIRLWIND STUD EARRINGS £2,250


party pieces

Georg Jensen archive neck ring £1,700

JEWELLERY

Allanah Diamond Ring £10,950

A bit of bling

stay sparkling during the festive season: david m robinson has the best party jewellery for all your celebratory occasions. adorn your wrists, neck and ears

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Georg Jensen askill bangle £1,800

ribbon diamond bangle £9,750

aria earrings £200

50 years...

of Georg Jensen x Vivianna

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david m robinson has worked with georg jensen for a long time, and is thrilled to celebrate the brand’s 50-year-long collaboration with renowned swedish silversmith vivianna torun bÜlow-hÜbe

his year, Danish jeweller Georg Jensen celebrates 50 years of collaborating with Swedish silversmith Vivianna Torun Bülow-Hübe. Her famed designs have been exhibited around the world, and one of her standout Georg Jensen collections, and a popular one at DMR, is Savannah. Pairing sterling silver and yellow gold with citrine, quartz and blue topaz; bangles, earrings and rings are delicate yet bold. The aesthetic is classic, with an on-trend, clean, Scandi design. Smokey quartz is believed to possess protective powers, so what are you waiting for? Complete a matching stone set with a drop pendant, or embrace the rainbow with one of each. ●

earrings 18ct rose gold with smokey quartz; 18ct yellow gold with citrine, each £650

his party season, go bold. Nothing looks better with a little black dress than a touch of sparkle, and don’t be afraid to mix your metals. Many designers are choosing to work with rose, yellow and white gold, so they no longer clash, but complement. Take your hair and outfit into account when picking pieces: a ponytail allows for chandelier earrings, an exposed décolleté for a statement necklace, and sleeveless means you can stack up the bangles. A cocktail ring adds glamour, and is sure to get complimented. If in doubt, you can always come into your local DMR and talk us through the type of festive event you’re attending. We’re always happy to help you pick something appropriate and classic, so you can wear it not just this Christmas, but for years to come. Shine on. ●

Q&A with... carleeann taylor david m robinson’s new buying manager talks inspiration and favourite pieces of jewellery

What is your personal favourite item of jewellery? One piece has recently been reset by the workshop. Originally set in a heavier platinum mount, we made the decision to reset this 3.50ct emerald-cut diamond in a more open setting, allowing maximum access for light, which provides sparkle. It’d certainly be my dream engagement ring! What piece are you most excited about? Although we’re releasing new collections for autumn/winter, my own favourite piece is actually a new addition to our most popular collection. Recently designed in-house, our new Hopscotch statement drop earrings are the perfect accompaniment to your seasonal styles. pendants 18ct yellow gold with citrine; rose gold with smokey quartz, each £1,650

Describe the David M Robinson team... We’re fortunate to have expert teams who have been ready and willing to pass on their knowledge to me. Within our head office, we have individuals who’ve been working alongside Mr Robinson since the very beginning. Describe an average day... No two days are the same. Since I started in June, I have been fortunate to experience so much, from meetings with our directors and designers, to days in the studio shooting our latest campaigns. All of these will eventually come together to provide a basis for the next year at David M Robinson. ●

bangles 18ct yellow gold with citrine; 18ct rose gold with smokey quartz, each £1,750

rings 18ct yellow gold with citrine; rose gold with smokey quartz, each £1,100

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@ D av i d _ MR o b i n s o n

hopscotch earrings £14,950

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Cloud Nine Collection CLOUD NINE LARGE PENDANT £1,250 CLOUD NINE SMALL PENDANT £950 cloud nine slim diamOnd ring £995


JEWELLERY

lunar necklace £1,950

Lunar Yellow Gold Anniversary Diamond Bangle, and white gold anniversary diamond bangle, each £7,450

lunar earrings £2,950

lunar:

lunar ring £4,750

The tenth anniversary David M robinson celebrates ten years of an exclusive icon. we’re still loving the lunar collection

t was Yves Saint Laurent who said, “Fashion fades, style is eternal.” The best things do last forever, and can be revitalised and reincarnated in so many different ways, they always seem fresh and exciting. This is particularly true of David M Robinson’s Lunar collection, now celebrating its decade in existence. Ten years ago, DMR released an icon, and 2017 marks its anniversary. Since its inception, the Lunar collection has been one of DMR’s most popular suites of diamond jewellery, and one that is “truly at the heart of our iconic Yellow Box collections”, says managing director John Robinson. Designed in-house by DMR, and sold exclusively through DMR showrooms, the collection showcases delicate pieces, where diamonds are elegantly bezel-set

following asymmetrical strands of 18ct gold. You can wear one Lunar piece alone as a standout item, mix and match Lunar with other collections, or opt for the whole suite: it’s delicate and subtle enough not to look garish. To celebrate the 10 year anniversary, DMR is adding two new exclusive diamond bangles to the collection. Produced in 18ct yellow and white gold and set with 1.80cts of diamond, the curved shape of the existing bangle has been altered to add a refined feel. A single row of pavé set diamonds has been added to the piece, adding an extra touch of sparkle to the wearer’s wrist. ● “the lunar suite is truly at the heart of our iconic yellow box collections” – managing director John Robinson

Q&A with...

Emma McCulloch Senior Sales Ambassador Emma is based in the Liverpool One showroom and has taken time out of her busy day to answer questions on a growing jewellery trend...

Have you noticed a trend for young women buying jewellery for themselves? Yes. Young women are keen to buy the pieces they want. We no longer feel that jewellery has to be an occasional purchase, or all purchased as gifts. It’s part of our modern outlook, I guess. We like it, we buy it! We’ve seen it pop up over the last three years or so, and social media definitely plays a big part in this. Image platforms like Instagram and Pinterest show us just what we can have, how to create the look and who can help us do it. Do women come in alone or with someone? We see a lot of girly shopping days. People

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david m robinson bangles from £2,950

trust their mum’s opinions, so sometimes it’s wise to bring her along. Plus, on the odd occasion someone does come in alone, you can be sure that pictures are being taken and fired off straight away! What pieces do young women tend to buy for themselves? Mixing styles is something we’re seeing more of. A mix of metals, stacked alongside their mother’s pearls – things that keep your style cool and fresh. It’s that mix of old and new. Simplicity speaks volumes, sometimes simple diamond bangles teamed with a silver linked bracelet can create the perfect eclectic mix of everyday style. Why are women buying jewellery for themselves? Just because. We all live for the moment, a world where what we want, we have! The simplicity of the items clients are buying makes them timeless purchases,

but not for an occasion. It’s like the little black dress – it’ll never lose its appeal. My advice would be choose what you want, go with what you love. Don’t overthink the decision, if you love it, then you have to have it. What jewellery trends do you think will be popular in 2018? 2018 is going to be a bold year for jewellery,

with pops of colour and a mix of exciting styles. The stacking of mixed bangles and chains, as well as pendants, will be a big part of our everyday style. We’ve seen from the catwalk this year that bold colours and statement drop earrings are on the up. Big earrings can change any outfit, adding an eclectic versatility to any ensemble. ●

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Above: Hopscotch Collection hopscotch ring £6,450 hopscotch drop earrings £14,950 HOPSCOTCH PENDANT £2,250 hopscotch bangle £7,950 Clockwise from top right fine station necklets white gold and rose gold £4,550 emerald cut engagement ring £74,000 and FINE PAVE WEDDING BAND £1,250 emerald cut engagement ring £74,000 OVAL CUT ENGAGEMENT RING £9,750


trend

thin bands

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pear-cut halo ring £3,500

In recent months, an increasing number of grooms and brides-to-be have opted for a thin band for their engagement ring. Not only is it versatile, working alongside any wedding ring style, but its delicate appearance is elegant, contemporary and will elongate the finger

Marquise-Cut Halo Ring £10,500

full diamond-set eternity ring £2,250

“With a choice as personal as an engagement ring, we are aware that clients are conducting their own research on styles that are available, and trends play a role in that” emerald-cut ring as seen on cover

emerald-cut ring from £74,000

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Interview with...

nicky owens on bespoke commissions when it comes to designing a bespoke engagement ring, repairs manager nicky owens pulls out all the stops

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hen a good friend and DMR customer approached Nicky Owens, repairs manager, to design a bespoke ring for his fututre wife, Nicky was excited. They had met up on occasions all over the world and he had often seen some of the special commissions Nicky had worked on. “He got in touch early this year to look at designing and making an engagement ring,” says Nicky. “We managed to finally meet in our Manchester branch to discuss some ideas and get some designs down on paper.” DMR’s Bespoke department specialises in creating handcrafted, one-off pieces of jewellery and embraces the chance to work one-on-one with clients throughout the creative process in order to create a unique and personal item. While Nicky hadn’t met his partner before – as the couple both live in Austin, USA – she had the £POA opportunity to see many family photos and discuss his partner and her career as a flamenco dancer and teacher. With such a lively and exciting job, it was only right to design a ring to match. “We started discussing using a coloured stone as the centre point of the ring, and agreed on a natural fancy yellow diamond,” Nicky explains. “The next step was for me to come up with a design and get in a selection of stones for him to view.” Natural coloured diamonds, such as the yellow diamond chosen, are extremely rare. The yellow

developed the way we select our bridal pieces,” DMR’s buying manager Carleeann Taylor explains. “With a choice as personal as an engagement ring, we are aware that clients are conducting their own research on styles that are available, and trends play a role in that.” Pavé-set diamond bands, which is an elegant style of diamond setting that sees stones set delicately alongside each other, has proven particularly popular, reducing the visibility of heavy metal settings. While they may incorporate many diamonds, such bands can appear visually uncluttered on the finger. “At DMR, we have launched our own selection of engagement rings, with fine pavé-set diamond shoulders. Elegant shoulders do not detract from the significant centre stone, but add an extra sparkle to your special piece,” says Carleann. “The delicacy of the style makes them perfect to sit alongside diamondset wedding bands, which will extend the classic look along the finger.” Despite the smaller surface area, thin bands can be finished beautifully to accent every woman’s personal style and the variety of different metals, gemstones and finer details can ensure your ring is unique. Although a petite engagement band would work beside a thin or thick wedding band, David M Robinson has seen an elevated interest in thinner bands for diamond-set wedding rings and eternity rings, too. ●

BRIDAL

our engagement ring is one of the few pieces of jewellery you certainly wouldn’t want to go out of style. Not only should you fall in love with it immediately, but you should love it just as much in 10 or 20 years’ time – so following a trend for such an important piece might seem risky. However, the latest trend of thin engagaement ring bands is one that will remain a classic for the long haul. The trend gained interest when several A-list celebrities, including Natalie Portman, Beyoncé and Blake Lively, were seen sporting a thin engagement ring band. Consquently, AW17 has seen an noticeable increase in the number of fine jewellery designers embracing the trend in their bridal collections. “Whilst bridal collections aren’t always trenddriven, changes in the world around us have

“Cushion cuts work really well with Trilliant-cut shoulder stones, and in this case, it really enhanced the yellow diamond” diamond gets its colour due to the existence of nitrogen molecules which absorb blue light and fancy yellow diamonds in particular are known for their very clear yellow hue. Once ideas had been discussed, Nicky produced some design sketches and went back and forth with the client until he was completely happy with it. “We wanted to make the engagement ring elegant and fine as his partner is very petite,” Nicky says. “My client had never seen a cushion cut before and he absolutely loved it. Cushion cuts work really well with trilliant-cut shoulder stones, and in this case, it really enhanced the yellow diamond. My client then opted for an 18ct yellow gold for the band to create the stunning engagement ring. “Once the design had been signed off, it was sent to our highly skilled master goldsmiths to make the ring using the highest quality materials and the expertly selected yellow diamond.” With a wedding on the way, Nicky was also happy to report that the couple have already started discussing a wedding band to sit snug beside it in the future. ●

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TIMES emerald cut halo ring from £6,325

round brilliant cut diamond ring in platinum from £34,000

round brilliantcut halo ring from £5,750

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oval cut halo ring from £7,950

Engaging history

round brilliant cut ‘twist’ diamond ring in plATINUM from £14,950

looking back in time to discover the history of the engagement ring

iving or receiving an engagement ring has been a time-honoured tradition for as long as anyone can remember. And like so many special customs, the gifting of an engagement ring originated in Ancient Egypt. At the time, men wore rings to represent their wealth, so presenting a ring to their wife symbolised the joining of two riches.The circular shape was said to represent an eternal cycle and its placement on the fourth finger of the left hand is attributed to a vein that is believed to lead straight to the heart. The use of the ring lost a little of its romance when it came to the Romans, however, as some say that the groom would present the bride a gold ring to wear during the marriage ceremony and during special occasions, then an iron ring to wear at home, to signify her agreement to his ownership of her. The method of expressing commitment has changed several times throughout the centuries and across cultures, but in the 11th century, the

church sanctified the importance of rings. Fastforward to the mid-16th century and it became officially included within the wedding ceremony, marking a crucial moment. Diamonds on engagement rings came into fashion sometime in between, with one of the first recorded uses of a diamond ring in 1477 when Archduke Maximilian of Austria proposed to Mary of Burgundy with a ring set with thin, flat pieces of diamonds in the shape of an ‘M’. It was only kings and queens who began to wear precious stones on their rings, and diamonds were only worn by the social elite. As time went by, more affordable options became available and by the 1930s, the diamond engagement ring became a popular symbol to mark the promise of eternal love. By the late 1940s, it had become a permanent fixture, especially once, in 1949, Carol Channing introduced the world to one of the most iconic catchphrases via Broadway, with ‘Diamonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend’. ●

marquise-cut diamond ring from £9,950

Round Brilliant Cut Halo Diamond Ring from £3,750

emerald-cut ring from £4,750 princess-cut diamond halo ring from £7,950

Make a

statement

Oval Cut Diamond Ring from £4,950

Hopscotch drop earrings £14,950

embrace the big, the bold and the beautiful on your special day with statement earrings

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earing statement earrings on your wedding day is a trend that has taken over the bridal scene in recent months, with brides everywhere embellishing their ears with bold, drop-down diamonds to complete their look. “Having developed over time from a more catwalk inspired eclipse trend, we are observing an earrings evolution of statement accessories, £9,750 within jewellery collections,” DMR’s buying manager Carleeann Taylor says. “It has recently transitioned from a more fashionfocused trend, to one that fine jewellery designers, like ourselves, have been more willing to invest in. This really demonstrates a willingness to break boundaries when it comes to diamond jewellery. And this year sees us developing this exciting trend into

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our own bridal looks, perfect for the modern bride.” With several stunning options at DMR, it won’t be difficult to choose a pair that works for a contemporary bride, Carleeann explains: “If we look at two of our new additions for this year, both our ‘Hopscotch’ statement earrings and our ‘Eclipse’ chandelier drops, fit perfectly within this emerging trend. From the more linear, geometric design of Hopscotch, which remains our most popular collection, to the elegant, graceful style of Eclipse, both provide the modern bride with that timeless silhouette that is expected for her wedding day.” ●

love lines The new Love Lines AW17 collection features two eye-catching diamond rings, available in 18ct white, yellow and rose gold. The two new designs, which will be in stores from November 2017, were created in-house by David Robinson and managing director John Robinson and are exclusive to DMR. While one of the rings is horizontal with two elegant rows of pavé-set diamonds running parallel across the finger, the other is designed vertically with two strands of diamonds secured together by single, round, brilliant-cut diamonds. “The striking nature of the new Love Lines rings demonstrates what DMR does best – design iconic diamond jewellery, with lasting and timeless appeal,” says buying manager Carleeann Taylor. ●

love lines ring from £1,850

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heritage rouge & noir tropic special edition £655

A gift for groomsmen THREE of the best the montblanc heritage 1962 city bags

thank your groomsmen with a gift they’ll treasure courtesy of montblanc. whether it is a speciality pen from the brand’s new heritage collection, a dapper bracelet or a contemporary and practical briefcase

Q&A with... HANNAH WILLIAMS

...on bridal jewellery shopping

MontBlanc 1926 Heritage Briefcase £1,200 montblanc steel grey leather bracelet £170 MontBlanc 1926 Heritage Document Case £1,030

MontBlanc 1926 Heritage portfolio £600

Bespoke

cufflinks repairs manager nicky owens and cad specialist james atkinson worked together on a pair of bicycle-inspired cufflinks unlike any other

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fter working with DMR’s repairs manager, Nicky Owens, on a bespoke engagement ring, wedding rings and wedding gifts, one client came back for help on his next bespoke item: cufflinks for the big day. “He wanted something really special,” explains Nicky. “And after speaking with him, we came up with a design based on the things that mean something to both him and his partner.” The client sent over images of special cycling shoes he also had commissioned, and this sparked the initial idea. Nicky

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BESPOKE CUFFLINKS £POA

montblanc steel brown leather bracelet £215

took the brief to James Atkinson, a computer aided designer (CAD), who uses state-of-the-art technology to create three dimensional design images. They took the clients’ two key aspects, bicycles and swallows, and together they came up with an idea. “We started by thinking of ideas for each aspect seperately, but then we thought, why not combine the two together?” says James. “We ended up designing bicycle seats with swallows engraved onto them. “The great thing about creating a CAD design is that the client is given a realistic image of what the final product will look like. And we can easily make any amendements or adjustments to the design.” The talented goldsmiths take the finished image and using a mixture of machine and skilled hands, create the final product with all its unqiue finishes. ●

BRIDAL

Hannah Williams, Assistant Manager from the Manchester showroom talks wedding bands, mixing metals and ‘wedd-fitt’

What aspects do you first need to consider before you buy a wedding ring? It’s important to have an idea of how you want that band to look with your engagement ring and to imagine them as a set. Most ladies are used to buying a piece of jewellery to be worn in isolation. However, a wedding ring is a unique purchase in that it will be worn against an engagement ring and it is often the style and design of the latter that ultimately influences the choice of the band. It’s also important to consider lifestyle and occupation. How do you pick a wedding band that works with your engagement ring? We always encourage our clients to try on several different designs, even if it’s a style that they never would have considered. The styles will be led by the design of the engagement ring. Most of our engagement rings are ‘wedd-fit’ meaning that a wedding ring will sit flush against them and in this instance most wedding band styles will suit. If you have a sentimental ring, we are very fortunate to have our Goldsmiths workshop on site, who can create a bespoke shaped wedding band too. I always say that the diamond in the engagement ring should remain the focal point, and any diamonds in the wedding band should only enhance their engagement ring. If the diamonds are too large in the wedding band it can end up distracting the eye from the ring which their fiancé specially picked for them. What would you advise when it comes to choosing between matching your engagement and wedding ring metals, as opposed to a unique combination? I would always advise to match the metals. From a practical point of view, two metals of the same chemical and physical composition will wear much better and last longer than two different types of metal. For instance, a platinum engagement ring should be coupled with a platinum wedding ring, or an 18ct white gold engagement ring with an 18ct white gold wedding band. Whilst aesthetically pleasing, it’s not advisable to mix platinum and white gold when they are being worn as a set, because platinum is so much harder than gold, the white gold will wear at a much quicker rate. It will require more frequent re-rhodium plating over the lifetime of the ring, at a higher cost to the client. ●

“After speaking with him, we came up with a design based on the things that mean something to both him and his partner”

@ D av i d _ MR o b i n s o n

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TIMES

Clockwise from far left IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar £34,950 Patek Philippe 5320G £63,370 Omega Speedmaster Chronograph Moonphase £7,520 Panerai PAM561 £5,000 Cartier Drive de Cartier Moonphase £6,600 Rolex Cellini Time £11,200 Watches shot against the Philip Armstrong ‘Weston’ collection

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@ d m r _ ST Y LE


Born to DARE POP CULTURE AND WATCHES COLLIDE AS TUDOR ANNOUNCES David Beckham and Lady Gaga as ITS LATEST ambassadors

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s part of its ‘Born to Dare’ campaign, Tudor has revealed David Beckham and Lady Gaga as its new ambassadors. The high-profile footballer-turned-model and charismatic queen of pop were selected, the brand says, for their ambition, work ethic and continued commitment to pushing boundaries. The fact that they have more than 65 million Instagram followers between them probably didn’t hurt, either. Established in 1946 by Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf, Tudor made a name for itself by providing sportier and more affordable versions of watches from its more celebrated sister brand. Tudor bowed out of the UK market in 2003, only to return with a slew of new timepieces in 2014. The brand has spent the ensuing years cultivating an army of cult enthusiasts. Beckham and Gaga join the brand following the launch of several new timepieces at this year’s Baselworld. In the campaign shots already released, Beckham sports Tudor’s new Black Bay Chronograph and Black Bay Steel and Gold (S&G), while Gaga wears the Heritage Black Bay Burgundy, an automatic three-hander available with a steel bracelet and complimentary fabric strap. ●

Tudor HERITAGE BLACK BAY £2,630

Tudor HERITAGE BLACK BAY s&g £3,580

Established in 1946 by Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf, Tudor made a name for itself by providing sportier and more affordable versions of watches from its more celebrated sister brand

AN ICONIC TIMEPIECE IS RESIZED AND RECEIVES A MECHANICAL AND MATERIAL UPDGRADE

patek philippe 5205r-010 £36,720

The sky at night A relic from an age when the moon played a major role in man’s existence, the moonphase indicator is perhaps the most visually romantic of all watch complications, displaying the current phase of the moon in the night’s sky via a disc decorated with stars and two moons. During the first days of each lunation, the leading moon becomes visible as a crescent on the left of the aperture. Halfway through the lunation, the moon appears full. It then wanes as it disappears behind the terminator on the right of the aperture. As the moon vanishes, the second moon on the disc appears on the left. As well as featuring a moonphase indicator, Patek Philippe’s supremely elegant 5205R-010 is a ‘triple window’ annual calendar, displaying the day, date and month in separate windows arranged between 10 and 2 o’clock. The watch’s 40mm case and bezel are made of from 18ct rose gold, as are its hands and hour markers. An exhibition case-back reveals an in-house selfwinding movement. The watch arrives on a black alligator strap and 18ct rose gold buckle. ●

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WATCHES

Rolex reimagines the Datejust

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hen it was launched in 1945, the Datejust, the first self-winding waterproof chronometer to display the date in a window at 3 o’clock, consolidated into one timepiece all the major innovations Rolex had contributed to modern watchmaking. Earlier this year, Rolex announced a steel version of its new-generation Datejust 41, as well as a version in ‘Rolesor’, a material combining 904L steel with 18ct white gold. Like the yellow Rolesor and Everose Rolesor versions introduced in 2016, the new Datejust 41 watches are equipped with a redesigned 41mm case and the new Rolex calibre 3235, which holds 14 patents. In 2015, Rolex announced that all of its watches would henceforth be accurate to -2/+2 seconds per day – more than twice the precision required of Switzerland’s official chronometer testing body; setting a new industry leading level of chronometric performance for mechanical watches. In addition, thanks to new barrel architecture and increased escapement efficiency, the Datejust 41’s calibre 3235 movement offers a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. The watch is waterproof to a depth of 100 metres and available on an either an Oyster or Jubilee bracelet. Dial options include dark rhodium, white, blue, and silver, in addition to black with diamonds, and white mother-of-pearl with diamonds. ●

rolex datejust 41 from £6,900

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Return of the Railmaster omega releases a 60th Anniversary tribute to one of its most celebrated timepieces

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ebuting in 1957, the original Railmaster arrived in a year that would come to define Omega as a brand. Launched alongside the Speedmaster and Seamaster 300, the Railmaster was part of a trilogy of watches that would each go on to become an iconic timepiece. While the Speedmaster was built for racing drivers, and the Seamaster 300 for deepsea divers, the Railmaster, capable of withstanding strong magnetic forces, was intended for innovators working close to electrical fields. Sixty years later, Omega pays tribute to these three mechanical masterpieces by releasing special 60th Anniversary editions of each model. The updated Railmaster retains its predecessor’s unpretentious style, but now incorporates Omega’s Master Chronometer 8806 movement, a calibre that can withstand up to

15,000 gauss of magnetism and comes with a certification from METAS, which only Omega calibres hold. The new watch is cased in brushed and polished stainless steel and features a black dial with vintage indexes slightly deepened to allow the addition of SuperLumiNova. A stainless steel bracelet has been updated for strength and features a retrostyle OMEGA logo on the clasp. The steel, selfwinding timepiece measures 38mm, has a 55 hour power reserve and is water resistant to 6o metres. omega Just 3,557 pieces will railmaster be produced. £5,040

New Da Vinci takes centre stage IWC Schaffhausen’s Da Vinci range has a new lead actor, in the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph

c IWC DA VINCI PERPETUAL CALENDAR CHRONOGRAPH £34,950

reated in 1969, the first timepiece in the Da Vinci range, the Da Vinci Quartz Electronic, broke ground as the first watch to be equipped with a Swiss-made quartz movement. In 1985, IWC introduced the mechanical Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar, which quickly became the halo piece of the collection. Five decades of Da Vinci means that the new timepiece has the backing of a huge amount of chronograph development. It contains the 89630 Calibre, part of the 89000 Calibre movement family, and its flyback function allows you to reset the chronograph with one pusher without the need to stop and reset the counter. The perpetual calendar, originally developed by former chief designer Kurt Klaus, is mechanically programmed for 577.5 years – the moonphase display will diverge by just one day from the actual phase of the moon within that time. This year marked a return to the Perpetual Calendar’s round face, with striking Arabic numerals adding clarity. ●

the best of times

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TAG Heuer pays tribute to Ayrton Senna

hey say that Formula One stars are born and raised on the streets of Monaco. No driver has managed more wins on the sport’s most celebrated circuit than Ayrton Senna. On the way to winning his three world championships – in 1988, 1990 and 1991 – Senna achieved 65 pole positions and 41 Grand Prix victories, six of which he realised on the principality’s streets – five of which, astonishingly, arrived back-to-back between 1989 and 1993. This year marks the 30th anniversary of Senna’s first Monaco win, on 31 May 1987. To commemorate the milestone, TAG Heuer invited the racing driver’s niece, Bianca Senna, to the inauguration of its new Monaco boutique. During the event, the brand unveiled the new, limited-edition Senna collection.

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Tag Heuer Carrera Heuer01 Senna Edition £4,900

Ayrton Senna for TAG Heuer

Tag Heuer Formula One, Senna Edition £1,350

Two 43mm Formula 1 quartz watches feature a brushed steel case treated with black PVD coating. Both models, one of which is a chronograph, sport a red lacquered small seconds hand, a date window at 3 o’clock and ‘TAG Heuer Formula 1’ inscribed at 6 o’clock. The models are all available with TAG Heuer’s S-shaped links bracelet, similar to the style worn by Senna during his Monaco victories. ●

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JEWELLERY BRIDAL WATCHES dmr world

LINK LADY #linkyourlives Bella Hadid, the new generation’s favourite, has everything going for her. She’s beautiful, vivacious, luminous and free-spirited. She glides through pressure so #DontCrackUnderPressure is the perfect motto for her. www.tagheuer.com @dmr_STYLE

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The Tank turns 100

Actress Yvonne Strahovski at the Emmy Awards 2017

Cartier celebrates the centenary of its game-changing rectangular timepiece with a series of elegant updates

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The Tank arrived in 1917, a decade after Louis Cartier had created the Santos, widely credited as the first men’s wristwatch (traditionally, gentlemen wore watches in the pocket of their waistcoat). The timepiece was modelled, so the story goes, on the treads and cockpits of the Renault tanks that Mr Cartier had witnessed during WWI. Cartier had ushered modern design into watchmaking. Eschewing the Art Nouveau style, the Tank helped pioneer the avant-garde aesthetic that came to be known as Art Deco. The original Tank morphed into three families: the Tank Louis Cartier, the Tank Américaine and the Tank Française – all have been updated for the model’s centenary. Worn by Mr Cartier himself, the Tank Louis Cartier sets the standard for all Tank watches. New for 2017, the Large men’s model is now available in 18ct pink gold, with a beaded crown set with a sapphire cabochon, silvered beaded dial and blued-steel sword-shaped hands. The Tank Française updated the legacy of the Tank with a chain-link bracelet. This year, a Small steel model joins the collection. Set with 24 brilliant-cut diamonds totalling 0.49 carats, the quartz timepiece is water resistant to 30 metres. For larger wrists, there’s also a 33mm x 25mm model, again delivered in steel and housing a quartz movement. ●

watch marque is lucky if it manages to dream up just one iconic timepiece. Within its enviable stable, Cartier has several: the Santos; the Ballon Bleu; the Panthère. Then there’s the Tank, arguably the most legendary of them all. Andy Warhol didn’t bother to wind his. “I really don’t wear it to tell the time,” he once said in an interview. Other owners include Gary Cooper, Yves Saint Laurent, Madonna and Princess Diana.

Actor Alexander Skarsgård at the Emmy Awards 2017

TANK LOUIS CARTier £10,000

TANK FRANçAISE £6,200

Time turner

Submersible 1950 Carbotech £14,500

Patek Philippe’s genre-defining dress watch turns 85

Marina 1950 Carbotech £10,000

Panerai Carbotech collection

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tradition and innovation collide at panerai, with the launch of two new Luminor timepieces made from sophisticated carbotech

arbotech, a composite material based on carbon fibre, has never been used in watchmaking before: you’re more likely to see it in performance car brakes. It’s created by compressing thin sheets of carbon fibre together under high pressure with a polymer, to make a super-strong and durable material. The mechanical properties are much higher than other materials regularly used in watchmaking, such as ceramics and titanium. Carbotech is lighter, much more resistant, hypoallergenic and won’t corrode. Panerai is the first watchmaker to use this ‘supermaterial’ in watches, launching the Luminor CARBOTECH IS Marina 1950 Carbotech 3 Days Automatic and Lighter AND much Luminor Submersible 1950 Carbotech 3 Days more resistant Automatic timepieces. The material might be cutting THAN ceramic edge, but Panerai has retained its classic styling. The and titanium. iT’S Luminor 1950 case was developed in the 1940s for hypoallergenic the commandos of the Italian Navy. Here, the studded and won’t bezel is inspired by a 1956 model designed for the corrode Egyptian Navy. The movement inside both watches was created by the watchmaker in-house. Both pieces are also water resistant to 30 bar (approx. 300 metres). In addition to the technical advantages, Carbotech has an uneven, matt black finish, dependent on the cutting and compressing of the material, meaning that each timepiece is guaranteed to be unique. ●

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In 1932, Patek Philippe produced its first Calatrava model, the Ref. 96, which took its name from the cross the brand uses as its emblem. Inspired by the minimalist principles of the Bauhaus, the watch’s round case reflected the circular form of its movement, while the clarity and legibility of its clear, pure dial has subsequently proved timeless. Indeed, it’s fair to say that Patek Philippe’s Calatrava defined what we expect from a dress watch. When it debuted last year, the ‘Night Blue’ 4897/300G-001 remained largely unchanged from its forebear of 85 years ago. However, this timepiece arrived with a guilloché dial, powdered gold hour markers and bezel set with 48 baguette diamonds. Inside a 33mm white gold case is a manually wound mechanical movement that provides for a 44-hour power reserve. The graceful timepiece is secured to a blue satin strap, complete with a prong buckle set with a further six baguette diamonds. ●

SPECS

Strap Material – Satin Water Resistance – Up to 30 Metres Dial Colour – Blue Dial Size – 33mm Glass Type – Sapphire Crystal Movement – Manual Case Material – White Gold ●

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Mike Brooks images © Scott Gobin photography

Q&A with... Julie Speechly

In the Liverpool One showroom Julie works in after sales, where things are kept personal – one reason why david m robinson is unique

Interview with...

Explain your role within David M Robinson... My role involes repairing or arranging the repair of the watch brands we stock, predominantly Rolex repairs and services. We are happy to take in jewellery repairs from other sources as well as DMR pieces. We are extremely lucky in the Liverpool showroom as we have both our in-house watchmaker Mike, and Rupert, our goldsmith. Rupert focuses mainly on bespoke pieces and intricate jewellery repairs, while Tony and Dawn, who are mainly based in head office, look after the bulk of our jewellery after sales.

mike brooks In the Liverpool One showroom watchmaker mike plays a key role in the after sales department at david m robinson

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hen you buy something from David M Robinson, that is just the start of the journey, rather than the end. When things need altering, or are due a service, DMR is on hand to help you through that process, too. Watchmaker Mike Brooks is based in the Liverpool One showroom, which has a very busy after sales department, taking in approximately 400 repairs per month. “All watches we sell come with a guarantee from the manufacturer,” he says. “For watches repaired by myself, I always give a three-year guarantee. When a watch comes in for repairs, it is sometimes repaired in-house, and sometimes needs to go to the manufacturer,” he says. The facilities on-site are excellent, with all the necessary tools, so loved items

can be returned to the owner, typically, very quickly. As for how it’s divided between watch and jewellery repairs: “It’s pretty equal in numbers.” You can spend a lot of time with a customer throughout the after sales process. Sometimes people check in on the process, or drop by the showroom regularly, or go back and forth on what they want. This helps forge long-standing relationships. “Occasionally I stay in touch with a customer, offering advice or just sharing a common interest in all things horological,” Mike says. Case in point: “I have a client who bought his TAG Heuer automatic watch 20 years ago. Every 18 months he brings it in to be resealed and every five years he brings it in for a full service. That is unusual, and it’s very nice to be the only watchmaker he trusts with the upkeep of his timepiece, and to be involved with it since it was bought.” At DMR, service you can trust is crucial, and Mike is an example of that. Part of being dedicated to the job is staying in touch with customers and ensuring they remain happy, which is why after sales is key to the business. ●

Who is the typical DMR customer? Like every customer, every repair is different. It is important to make the customer feel very much part of the process, particularly in the case of a remodel, and again it reiterates how special and important jewellery is. As a general rule, the customer is always updated with information relating to the repair, the process of the necessary work and the expected timeline. How well do you know your customers? Loyalty is crucial. We have incredible loyalty from so many long-standing customers. People who purchased wedding bands more than 40 years ago are still customers today. Why do people return to David M Robinson? There is often sentimentality attached to buying a piece of jewellery, so we like to make a visit to the showroom a memorable and special occasion. What is your favourite thing about your job? I have been lucky enough to meet some incredible people who have now become friends. ●

Store information & contacts ALTRINCHAM

LIVERPOOL

LONDON

MANCHESTER

SOUTHPORT

14 Railway Street Altrincham WA14 2RE T: 0161 928 7487 altrincham@davidmrobinson.co.uk

4-6 South John Street Liverpool L1 8BJ T: 0151 708 1140 southjohn@davidmrobinson.co.uk

4 Jubilee Place Canary Wharf E14 5NY T: 020 7538 2332 london@davidmrobinson.co.uk

28 St. Ann’s Square Manchester M2 7JB T: 0161 834 0217 manchester@davidmrobinson.co.uk

447-449 Lord Street Southport PR9 0AQ T: 01704 534 971 southport@davidmrobinson.co.uk

OPENING HOURS:

OPENING HOURS:

OPENING HOURS:

OPENING HOURS:

OPENING HOURS:

Monday – Saturday: 10am – 5pm Sunday: Closed

t: +44 (0) 20 7987 4320 e: info@rwmgbespoke.co.uk www.rwmg.co.uk

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RWMG Bespoke Editorial Director: Richard Brown Senior Designer: Daniel Poole Project Manager: Adam Garwood RWMG Bespoke is part of Runwild Media Group Group Managing Director: Eren Ellwood

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Monday – Friday: 9am – 8pm Saturday: 10am – 7pm Sunday: 12pm – 6pm

Monday – Saturday: 10am – 5pm Sunday: 11am – 5pm

Monday – Saturday: 10am – 5pm Sunday: Closed

RWMG Bespoke is part of Runwild Media Group © COPYRIGHT 2017 DAVID M ROBINSON LIMITED. All material strictly copyright and all rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part without prior permission of RWMG Bespoke and/or David M Robinson is strictly forbidden. All content believed to be correct at time of going to press. For repair, servicing and valuations, please see our website for details. All prices are correct at time of going to press. Prices are subject to change without notice. E&OE. David M Robinson does not officially endorse any advertising material or editorials for third-party products included within this publication.

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RWMG Bespoke One Canada Square Canary Wharf London E14 5AX United Kingdom

Monday – Saturday: 10am – 5pm Sunday: 11am – 5pm

DATA PROTECTION STATEMENT David M Robinson respects the privacy of every individual who receives D’AMOUR magazine. Any information collected about you will be used to fulfil the delivery of the magazine, for readership profiling purposes and for further marketing of David M Robinson products and events. We do this by making appropriate use of the information. This information will not be disclosed to anyone outside of David M Robinson, its affiliated or associated companies, its agencies, dealers, partners or licensees. It will be treated in accordance with the relevant legal provisions concerning data protection and may initially be stored and processed inside or outside the European Union anywhere in the world. You have the right as an individual to find out what information we hold about you and make corrections if necessary; you also have the right to ask us to not use the information. We will make all practical efforts to respect your wishes.

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D'Amour Times - David M Robinson  

Jewellery & Watches - AUTUMN / WINTER 17/18 - Issue 3