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Around runtvattern.se

Cycle around Lake Vättern – at a leisurely pace Renata Chlumska shares her tips on the nearby adventures Trout safari at Hjoån river

The kind wilderness of Tiveden Paragliding by Lake Vättern Lake Vättern and the weather






Facts about Lake Vättern Area: 1,912 km2 Length: 135 km Width: 31 km Greatest depth: 128 m Vättern is Sweden’s second largest lake, and Europe’s seventh largest. The name Vättern simply means water. The greatest inflows are the River Forsviksån from Lakes Unden and Viken, along with the River Huskvarnaån. The outlet is the River Motala Ström. Vättern is a rift formation. On the eastern side, there is Omberg, a raised geological formation, in this case an outcrop of the primary rock, which is a remnant of the mountain massif which sank through displacement along a geological fault. There are almost 30 species of fish in Lake Vättern, including grayling, smelt, char, European whitefish and Vättern salmon, which, funnily enough, is not a salmon but a trout. During the summer, Vättern fish can be seen at the Vättern-Akvariet aquarium in Motala.


Around Lake Vättern 2020 Cycle around Lake Vättern – at a leisurely pace Are you tempted by the thought of cycling around Lake Vättern – but discouraged by the thought of doing it in just one day, or even a night? Design your own race and cycle around the lake at a leisurely pace for a whole week.... Pages 4–7

The kind wilderness of Tiveden Tiveden oozes exciting wilderness, rough terrain, and great distances. Nowadays, however, there is also a Tiveden for the adventurer who wants powerful nature experiences without having to work too hard... Pages 8–9

Renata Chlumska shares her tips on nearby adventures She has crossed 12,800 kilometres around the United States, climbed several of the world’s highest mountains, and is currently planning her first trip to space. – But adventure can also be found here at home, around the corner... Pages 10–11

Lake Vättern and the weather Joel Mellin is the returnee who left life as a television meteorologist to start a crispbread bakery and shop... Pages 16–17

Presentation of the places around Lake Vättern: Askersund 18–19 Motala 22–23 Mjölby-Skänninge 26–27 Vadstena 30–31 Ödeshög 34–35 Gränna/Visingsö 38–39 Jönköping/Huskvarna 46–47 Habo 50–51 Tidaholm 54–55 Hjo 56–57 Karlsborg 60–61

On the shores of Lake Vättern, things remain the same We live in a strange time right now, with many and major changes to our normal lives. The term “staycation” – spending your vacation at home – is the key mantra for the summer of 2020. I love life by Lake Vättern, every day, all year round. Well, almost every day. And just like many others, I want to share that feeling. Growing up by Lake Vättern is great. Excursions to the Rosenlund sandbanks in Jönköping and the nature reserve of Girabäcken in Gränna were part of my childhood. So, I want to welcome you to our paradise on earth, with clean water, boating, fishing, and wonderful beaches. Our charming shops, lovely restaurants, and great museums are open as usual, but with a few new procedures. Our nature reserves are filling up with people taking the opportunity to experience hiking, camping, cooking in nature, or just enjoying a simple picnic together. We get to experience new, wonderful meetings with people, although we stick to the advice and instructions provided by the authorities. I want to thank all my wonderful staff and our loyal as well as new advertisers who make the publishing of Runt Vättern 2020 a reality, despite the current situation. I also want to thank editorial and all the municipalities and tourism companies that contribute with texts and photos that make our magazine such a great read. If you prefer reading on your tablet or computer, the magazine is available as pdf on our website runtvattern.se, under the “Tidningen” tab. The summer of 2020 will be different. Take advantage of the good that comes from that and treasure all the beautiful scenery around us. Enjoy life outdoors – around, on, and in Lake Vättern. I hope you and your loved ones have a wonderful summer! Eva Sandegren

Eva, summer 19 64


NOTE! When the corona pandemic hit earlier this year, this magazine was already in production. This may therefore affect the information in the magazine about different events, opening hours, etc. So please check the websites of each municipal, business, or organisation for up-to-date information.

Production: Runt Vättern Media AB Skarpavägen 2, 563 32 Gränna · Tel 070-673 80 48 info@runtvattern.se · www.runtvattern.se Printing: Mittmedia Print 2020 Layout: 0390 Communications Editing and advertising: Eva Sandegren Cover photo: © Eva Sandegren Print run: 70 000 ex Publisher: Eva Sandegren

Follow Runt Vättern on Facebook and Instagram: facebook/vattern.se · #runtvattern




Nice and slow – cycle around Lake Vättern at your own pace Text and photo: Johanna Svensson

Are you tempted by the thought of cycling around Lake Vättern – but discouraged by the thought of doing it in just one day, or even a night? Design your own race and cycle around the lake at a leisurely pace for a whole week. It's worth it.

Every year, thousands of cyclists do it. They train for months, meticulously preparing, and then, when the day arrives, they hop on their bike in a packed square in Motala, where, in clusters of 60– 70 cyclists, they are finally sent off. They then keep at it for half a day or so. Since the first edition of the world's largest cycling race in 1966, as many as 647,744 people have lined up to cycle around Lake Vättern. That, if nothing else, testifies to the fact that the experience of getting around Sweden's second largest lake by bicycle is something truly special. Even if you are one of those who think “no way” when someone mentions Lake Vättern and bicycle in the same sentence, you can probably still appre-

ciate the idea of filling up your bicycle basket with coffee, sandwiches, and freshly baked cinnamon buns from a lovely café and rolling down scenic country roads, bringing out the picnic blanket by one of the many lookout points along the lake and just enjoying your surroundings. Because that's also a fantastic way to get around the third largest lake in the EU. The “Runt Vättern” cycling route measures 420 kilometres and takes you through the grand Ecopark Omberg in the east, Tiveden National Park in the north, Hökensås Ridge in the west, and old quaint towns like Hjo, Vadstena, and Karlsborg. You cycle through ten municipalities, all of which offer worthwhile experiences. There are plenty of accommodation options along the “Runt Vättern” route, including hotels, campsites, and wind shelters, so you can easily pick where to stay the night, taking both experience and budget into account. The same goes for the food. If you're dreaming of a proper shrimp sandwich while cycling, you should try Kroatorpet in Huskvarna or Vete & Råg in Hjo. If you’re yearning for a three-course dinner, Idas brygga in Karlsborg and Turisthotellet on Mount Omberg are hard to beat. If ice cream is your cup of tea, head for 31:ans Glass & Kök in Hästholmen or any of the three ice cream huts in the heart of Askersund. None of these places will disappoint you. There are many top-class restaurants and cafés around Lake Vättern, which can be a nice change from the nine depots along the Vätternrundan Race that serve salty pickles, energy drinks, and plain buns (although the mashed potatoes and meatballs in Jönköping is a popular classic). If you have already cycled the Vätternrundan route, there is plenty of new things to discover, es-

AROUND VÄTTERN pecially since most of the Runt Vättern route takes you a completely different way than Vätternrundan. The Runt Vättern cycling route breathes love and care, offering its travellers many wonderful spots not accessible to the Vätternrundan cyclist. If, for example, you manage to pass through Ecopark Omberg as the sun sets on the other side of Lake Vättern, you're guaranteed a memorable moment. 13 kilometres of one-way old asphalt road along Lake Vättern is an unbeatable experience. Mount Omberg also offers plenty of great wind shelters, so if you truly want to become one with

nature, falling asleep and waking up to the sounds of Lake Vättern, this is your chance. Built by the Swedish Cycling Society at the end of the 1990’s, the Runt Vättern route was inaugurated in 2002. The route is maintained yearly to make sure it continues to be attractive to its visitors. While there are many signs showing the way, a cycling map of the route is still highly recommended. You can use it in combination with the blue square road signs “Runt Vättern” to easily take some detours and then reconnect to the route wherever you want. A good map will also come in handy if you need to shorten your trip. In several places, the route departs from Lake Vättern in order to ensure safe roads, but if you're an experienced cyclist not cycling with children, you can certainly make the trip shorter than the suggested 420 km. The Runt Vättern route mainly follows smaller low-traffic asphalt roads, but about a quarter of it is on gravel roads. On the Norstedt cycling map (page 21 for northern Lake Vättern and page 14 for southern Lake Vättern), you can easily see which stretches are asphalt roads and which are gravel roads. If you want to cycle around the lake on a race bike with narrow tyres, these pages are helpful for planning alternative routes. You can choose to connect to the route and start your cycling holiday wherever you want. One suggestion would be to cycle counter-clockwise, just in case you happen to fall in love with the experience and want to do it again. And if you were to reevaluate your “no way”-feeling about the Vätternrundan Race, at least you’ll get to see other things when taking on Lake Vättern along with 20,000 other people – going clock-wise. ➜

Facts: The Runt Vättern cycling route • Distance: 420 km • Cities along the route: Jönköping, Huskvarna, Gränna, Ödeshög, Vadstena, Motala, Askersund, Karlsborg, Forsvik, Hjo, and Habo.




Facts: Accommodation and food along the cycling route JÖNKÖPING Accommodation: At Scandic Hotel Elmia, you're more than welcome to keep your two-wheeler in your room. Villa Björkhagen Camp Site offers incredible views of Lake Vättern. Don’t miss out on a walk along Rosenlund’s mighty sandbanks. From here, you can enjoy both sunrise and sunset. Food / Café: Wallentins Konditori is located near the route by Lake Vättern's southwestern bend and offers a wide selection of treats and lighter lunch dishes. Supermarket: The route runs along Lake Vättern as it goes through Jönköping and not directly by any shops, but if you cross the road by the city centre pier, you’ll have plenty of options.

HUSKVARNA Accommodation: Stadshotellet in Huskvarna. Charming rooms, all furnished in different styles. The hotel also has a popular restaurant. Food / Café: The quaint Konditori Kroatorpet a few hundred metres north of the route. Serves food, including today's special, a lovely salad buffet, and a large selection of pastries for your coffee. Supermarket: The route does not pass through central Huskvarna, but the city centre is just a few hundred metres south of it, with several supermarkets to choose from.

GRÄNNA Accommodation: Grenna Hotell in central Gränna, with a long history in a beautiful setting. Gränna Camping, just by Gränna harbour. Food / Café: The town centre café with well-preserved 50’s charm. In addition to several options along Gränna main street, there are restaurants in the harbour. Supermarket: The route passes two supermarkets, both with generous opening hours. Ferry to Visingsö Island: Take the ferry to Visingsö and discover the flat island by bike. The cycling route around Visingsö is 25 km and goes through one of Sweden's largest oak forests and through a region with exciting history. The ferry runs several times daily during the summer months. No need to pre-book for cyclists.

ÖDESHÖG The route goes through central Ödeshög, passing the pharmacy, ICA grocery store, and pizzerias.

HÄSTHOLMEN 31:ans Glass och Kök: Popular ice cream café among cyclists (a few hundred metres west of the route). Paddling in Lake Vättern: Experience Lake Vättern up close with a kayak tour from Hästholmen. Paddle to Omberg's caves for a Lake Vättern experience out of the ordinary. You can rent kayaks and canoes from VätternEvent, among others.

OMBERG Accommodation: Ombergs Turisthotell is renowned for its beautiful location, good food, and nice rooms. If you only want to eat, advance booking is required.

Stocklycke Hostel is located in the heart of Ecopark Omberg. Sleep outdoors in wind shelters. The grand and beautiful Ecopark Omberg offers plenty of wind shelters, usually equipped with firewood. Food / Café: Café Stocklycke Vandrarhem. Hike: Even if you may want to save your strength for cycling, a hike up to Omberg's highest peak is well worth the trip. At 261 metres above sea level and 174 metres above Lake Vättern, Hjässan offers panoramic views of the plains of Östergötland. From Ombergs Turisthotell, the walk is about 20 minutes one-way.

VADSTENA Accommodation: Klosterhotellet has a spa and offers the option of dining in the monks’ old sleeping quarters. Vadstena Camping is located just northeast of Vadstena. Food / Café: Gamla Konditoriet is a charming café serving pastries and food. Pilgrimscentrum in Vadstena has been described as coming home to someone's kitchen. Supermarket: The route goes through central Vadstena and passes several supermarkets.


TIVEDEN NATIONAL PARK Accommodation: The route passes Stenkällegårdens Camping, which, in addition to cabins and a camp site, has a small shop that sells snacks and lighter dishes. Open all year round. Stigmansgårdens Logi och Café, one kilometre from the route, has cabins and a B&B and serves breakfast, home baked goods, and lighter dishes. There is also plenty of wind shelters in the enchanting national park.

KARLSBORG Accommodation: Kanalhotellet is situated right by Göta Canal and Karlsborg Fortress. The route passes Karlsborgs Camping. Food / Café: Restaurant Skomakarn´s serves a popular breakfast buffet and pre-packed meals for cyclists. Idas Brygga offers both food and accommodation in a lovely setting.

FORSVIK Forsviks Café och Mat has an outdoor terrace right by the Göta Canal. Here you can also check into the hotel, which used to be both a bank and a butcher's shop.

Accommodation: Hotell Nostalgi in Motala harbour. Take the opportunity to visit the Motala Motor Museum while you're here.


Z-parkens Camping is located by Varamobaden, the Nordic Region's largest lake swim area, with several kilometres of sandy beaches.

Hjo Camping is located 600 metres north of the town centre, on Lake Vättern.

Food / Café: After cycling along Göta Canal (so lovely!), you’ll find several dining options in Motala harbour, such as Restaurang Wetternmagasinet. Supermarket: There is a supermarket on the square in Motala, a few hundred metres from the harbour and route. Mast Climbing: If you love heights and new challenges, you should make an extra stop in Motala. Here you can get a guided tour up in one of Motala's most famous radio masts, 120 metres above ground level. Advance booking required.

ÖVRALID The cycling route passes Verner von Heidenstam's home by less than two kilometres. Take a guided tour and enjoy a shrimp sandwich that you can buy at Farfarsstugan.

ZINKGRUVAN A small mill town east of Askersund with Sweden’s southernmost underground mine still in operation. Take a tour 200 metres underground at Knalla Mine. Advance booking required.

ASKERSUND Accommodation: Hotell Norra Vättern by the harbour is a charming hotel with a spa. Food / Café: The route passes Verket and the town square with Sveas Tutingen, an 18th century café. Café Garvaregården & B&B has a lovely courtyard with a quaint café.

Accommodation: Hotell Bellevue by the harbour.

Food / Café: Guldkanten is a newly opened café close to the harbour. Vete & Råg on the town square makes delicious sourdough sandwiches. Supermarket: Several options in central Hjo, which also has a pharmacy. Boat to Visingsö Island: The Trafik Steamer runs from Hjo to Visingsö Island every Sunday during the summer months. The timetable can be found at sstrafik.se. Advance booking required via Hjo Tourist Information.

GATE The bison farm in Gate is located just under two kilometres from the route. Go on a bison safari and see the impressive animals up close. If you're in the mood for a unique overnight stay, you can book the farm tipi.

HÖKENSÅS The beautiful Hökensås nature reserve is popular for both fishing and hiking. Accommodation: Stay at Hökensås Camping & Stugby. Fishing gear and boats are available for rent at Hökensås Sportfiske, located in the same area.

HABO Food / Café: Landhs Konditori serves great salads and sourdough pizzas, among other things. Supermarket: The square in Habo offers several options for replenishing your food supplies.


Top tips for your cycling holiday! Moa Wall Kubilius from the Province of Värmland has done three long distance cycling tours across Europe and is quite the expert in how to enjoy your cycling holiday. When her son, Benjamin, was born almost four years ago, she thought “why not”? He can come. By now, they have been on three cycling holidays in Sweden. Here she shares her best tips for a successful cycling holiday with children: • Dare to try! I was really nervous before our first cycling holiday, thinking that Benjamin would get tired of the child bike trailer, but he was happy almost the entire time. There is a lot to look at. • Lower your ambitions. Cycling with a child is completely different from cycling alone or with other adults. Don’t plan ahead for how far you will cycle but take the days as they come. Make many stops throughout the day. Swim, enjoy a snack, and stop at playgrounds. • Bring a tent. The right of public access in Sweden is fantastic and being able to decide where to stop for the night instead of feeling the stress of having to reach a hotel or hostel is a great freedom. Also, living in a tent with your child is very cosy. • Carefully go through your packing! Every extra kilo can be painful on the road. Try an electric bike if you want; being on a cycling holiday shouldn’t be hard – it should be fun! Would you consider cycling the Around Lake Vättern route? – Absolutely, it looks beautiful. We may even do that this summer. But with an electric bike. For more inspiration and valuable tips, follow Moa at Instagram; @expedition_lycka




The kind wilderness of Tiveden Text and photo: Josefine Gustafsson

Vitsand on Lake Stora Trehörningen is a gem. Swim, pull up you canoe, or use it as a starting point for your hiking excursions.

Tiveden oozes exciting wilderness, rough terrain, and great distances. Nowadays, however, there is also a Tiveden for the adventurer who wants powerful nature experiences without having to work too hard. A late summer weekend in the late 90’s, a friend and I went to Tiveden to experience the “wilderness”. The tent, sleeping bags, camping stove, and food were all packed as we took off. It didn't occur to us that we could procure food on site. At the time, Tiveden was kind of a secret place for those of us who weren’t locals or wilderness geeks. I remember that we didn’t really know how to access the area or where to go. We sort of just wandered around – and not particularly far, since our backpacks were heavy. It was beautiful though. I've carried the experience of the lovely wild pine forest, the big boulders, and the dark, magical ponds with me ever since. I've thought about returning to Tiveden many times, but it always felt like too big of a project. This, of course, just goes to show how lazy I am. However, last summer, I finally did it. Not just once but twice. A lot has happened with the national park since the 90's, and yet, nothing has changed. The difference is that it is now impressively easy to find compared to before. In 2017, the Swedish Environmental Protection Agency made a serious effort to make

the national park visitor-friendly. Clearly marked entrances with interesting information boards, a manned nature centre by the main entrance, and clearly marked trails of various length and difficulty. Focus has been on making the park accessible, building fire pits, and providing adequate parking by the entrances. A number of accommodations and eateries have also been established.

The trip here is worthwhile If you’re coming from the south, be sure to stop at Hökensås by one of the lakes surrounded by sandy pine moors, enjoy home-made ice cream in the wooden town of Hjo, and squeeze in a visit to the well-preserved museum at the Forsvik Mill in the Göta Canal town of Forsvik. Located by the canal is the shop and Infopoint Kanalbutiken 5 knop that will provide you with the only map you'll need to explore Tiveden National Park.

Enter with or without a guide Choose whichever entrance you want. The Vitsand entrance is wonderful on a sunny summer day. That way, you can end your hike with a dip in the clear lake of Stora Trehörningen and soak up the sun on the sandy beach. If you come here during the low season, the parking by the main entrance is not as packed. Take your time to discover the exhibition on the Tiveden National Park and choose between the

various hiking trails. The long trail to Stora Trollkyrkan Church or Tjäderskogen Forest, or the shorter one to the Stenkälla boulders. Choose the Örsjönäs entrance if you want organised activities at the Tiveden Activity and Adventure Centre. There are several guides to guide you through different experiences. David Tverling at Naturguide Tiveden focuses on showing animals and natural environments. Lovisa Larsson at Traceless in Tiveden gives art walks, introduces you to Tiveden in a wooden canoe, and shows you outdoor cooking.


Lake Vättern's Archipelago

The good life Be sure to try the excellent coffee at Tiveds Kafferosteri and Café in the quaint village of Sannerud. The hostel in Tivedstorp offers comfortable accommodation. The hostel is rather like a small farming village in the forest and is owned by a village company that wants to develop the area. Here you’ll get all the help you need for a wonderful stay. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served in the old coffee house. You can borrow mountain bikes and book different types of guided tours.

After a day in the national park, you can look forward to a lovely after-hike evening at Luripompa in Sannerud. Luripompa is a big city gem in the middle of the countryside. An extraordinary food truck with high ambitions when it comes to locally produced food, drinks, and a pleasant atmosphere. Locals as well as tourists gather here in the evenings to feast on burgers that are out of this world and drink beer from microbreweries or locally made soft drinks. The owners also run Tived's Country Store that sells everything you may need, including their own delicacies.

As a new day dawns, vast views of the northern Lake Vättern archipelago await. That is, if you’re somewhat used to kayaking. Kayaks are easily booked at Vätternkajak.se. You pick them up using a code in Olshammar or Granvik. Try it out with a guide or paddle on your own. Either way, you’re guaranteed a wonderful experience among pine-covered islands and bare rocks surrounded by mineral-green water. And if, before you head home, you've heard the wolf howl, seen the moose digest, or the sea eagle soar above you, well, that's just a bonus. In Tiveden, you find kind wilderness with experiences to suit all ages and preferences. ■■

The main building of the hostel in Tivedstorp.

Eat well and relax at Luripompa in Tived.

Wonderful kayaking in Lake Vättern's Archipelago.




Sweden's leading female adventurer:

“Discover what’s around the corner” Text: Johanna Svensson

Renata Chlumska Seven Summits – Aconcagua, 2014. Photo: Pablo Betancourt.

She has crossed 12,800 kilometres around the United States, climbed several of the world’s highest mountains, and is currently planning her first trip to space.

kayaked from Florida up the Atlantic Coast to the Canadian border, where she cycled back to Seattle. Her expedition took 439 days. – Lake Vättern was indispensable before that expedition. It allowed me to train for tough conditions, which are common over there. It was great preparation for the rough waves of the Pacific Ocean, she says.

– But adventure can also be found here at home, around the corner, says Renata Chlumska, Jönköping.

Do you have any hidden gems around Lake Vättern?

For over 25 years, she has lived near Lake Vättern, enjoying access to all that is has to offer in the form of recreational activities. – I grew up by the sea, so it's important for me to live near the water and the sense of freedom that comes with that. After Renata's kayaking expedition 2005–2006, Outside Magazine named her one of the world’s top 25 female adventurers. At the time, Renata had just finished her expedition across what is known as “the lower 48 states”; that is, the entire United States minus Alaska and Hawaii. She started in Seattle in the northwest corner of the United States, kayaked down the Pacific Coast to San Diego, cycled to the east coast with her kayak in tow,

– My family enjoys hanging out by the canoe club in Jönköping, in both summer and winter. The lake offers great skating, among other things. Northern Lake Vättern by Askersund, with its archipelago, is also lovely. As is Medevi. There are many beautiful spots. The special situation this winter and spring, caused by the corona pandemic, has meant big changes for Renata, professionally speaking. She works as a lecturer, and all events have been cancelled or postponed indefinitely. – I have always been mentally prepared for the fact that things can change. This too will change, and jobs will start coming in again. It’s important not to panic but to focus on that which you can do something about, she says. Among other things, this is precisely what Renata lectures on – facing and overcoming your fears.


She recommends a backpack, something to drink, and a pair of comfortable shoes. Then just step outside. – Discover what’s around the corner! You don’t have to go far.

Do you have a favourite hiking trail around Lake Vättern? – The John Bauer Trail. I've hiked that trail so many times. She usually starts the 50-km route in Gränna just to feel like she’s walking home, toward Jönköping, south along Lake Vättern. She brings a tent or sleeps in one of the wind shelters along the trail. – The Bauer Trail is perfect for beginners. Tiveden is also beautiful. You don’t need to go to the mountains to hike, she says. ■

Around America Adventure, Day 1, Seattle. Photo: Kaj Bune.

Facts: Renata Chlumska Title: Adventurer, lecturer, future astronaut Lives: In Jönköping (or “base camp”, as she calls it) Born: 1973 in Malmö. Her family is originally from the Czech Republic and Renata has dual citizenship. Sample achievements: In 1999, Renata became the first Swedish and Czech woman to climb Mount Everest. In 2014, she also became the first Swedish and Czech woman to conquer the “Seven Summits” – climbing the highest peaks on every continent. By kayak and bicycle, she has circumnavigated 48 of the 50 states in America. Her next adventure: “I'm waiting to experience weightlessness in space”

Space, the Swedish National Museum of Science and Technology. Photo: FredrikFoto Blomqvist. Vackert väder över Visingsö. Joel Mellin.

She used to have stage fright and was terrified of speaking in front of a crowd. Today, she does it for a living. – Fear is about an emotion, and we can learn to manage it. That way, we can also understand what triggers us. She sees it as a choice, where we can choose to either spend a certain amount of energy – for the rest our lives – running away from the uncomfortable, or to spend a greater amount of energy – for a shorter period of time – getting through it. – It may be difficult for a time but then it turns around and you feel free, and the anxiety created by the fear goes away. Renata herself used to be afraid of insects and bugs but she has learned to live with them, largely thanks to all those nights in a tent during her US expedition 15 years ago. – I've had cockroaches turning up here and there. I used to find it terrifying. Now I'm not bothered by it.

Discover nature close-by While the coronavirus certainly has led to significant and stressful changes for people, Renata welcomes the enormous increase in recreational activities and people's desire to be out in nature. – It's great. Nature is our biggest venue. It’s never closed, she says.


Around America Adventure, Rio Grande. Photo: Christer Rugestål.



The royal castle on Näs Text: Mårten Fredriksson

The history around Lake Vättern is not just local history but the history of all of Sweden. During the 12th and 13th centuries, Visingsö Island was a central location in the process of uniting the kingdom, and the emerging nation’s first royal castle was built on the island. The castle came to be the king’s castle during centuries of power struggle over who would rule the kingdom that would eventually become Sweden. Today, it's difficult to imagine that Visingsö was once the site of power struggles and brutal killings. A beautiful place, where lush fields and meadows extend towards Lake Vättern, and where cattle leisurely graze the pastures. For most of us, Visingsö Island is something we see in the corner of our eye when driving down Highway E4. But what many don’t know is that for hundreds of years, Visingsö Island was a central location and a hub in the kingdom that would emerge as Sweden became a state. In the middle of the 12th century, Sweden looked nothing like it does today. Powerful institutions served as the authorities of the time and were essential to people's lives. Noble families were local institutions of power controlling large land areas. They built local churches to confirm their power and to show that they were legitimised by God. At the same time, the most powerful families donated land areas and estates to monastic orders. The monasteries were international conglomerates presenting knowledge completely unique at the time.

They were the knowledge banks of the time, and essential to the noble family claiming to be the leading family, and who, by continental example, wished to call themselves “Rex” over a kingdom; in other words, a king with absolute power, embodying God and becoming the deputy of God. Controlling the church and the monasteries was the way to control land and people. Owning the souls of men meant unlimited power. Therefore, becoming king by the grace of God, or “Rex Dei Gratia”, was what the leaders of the most powerful families sought.

So, what does Visingsö have to do with all this – this peripheral island in the middle of southern Lake Vättern? Visingsö Island provided the perfect and most strategic location if wanting to control that which a king must control in order to call himself Rex Dei Gratia. In the second half of the 12th century, mainly two families were competing for absolute power. The House of Eric, based in the Province of Västergötland, and the House of Sverker, based in the Province of Östergötland. In their respective



Näs Castle Ruins on Visingsö Island. Photo Johanna Hallbäck.

province, they had family estates and controlled subordinate families and churches. This is also where they had donated land and estates to the Cistercian monasteries of Varnhem and Alvastra, with the House of Eric being Varnhem's protector and the House of Sverker being Alvastra's protector. Controlling Visingsö Island would put them in the most strategic place for controlling the most important communication route between the two provinces in the east-west direction, while also controlling the major routes in the north-south direction. Visingsö Island thus became the strategic key for locking in power in the emerging Sweden. The island was easy to defend, as any intruder could be quickly spotted. You also had natural control of all trade linking the Götaland provinces with those in Småland, as well as the rich trade in the north, in the Province of Närke. Lake Vättern became the most strategic communication centre for trade and control of the flows from the provinces of Mälarland and Norrland, as well as the trade with the powerful Danish kingdom in the south, where the two dominant families both had family ties and close connections. But the history of Visingsö Island dates back even farther, and burial sites from the Iron Age and the Viking Age reveal an early local centre of power. Before the construction of Näs Castle, noble family estates and even a “husaby” were found here. A husaby was a royal estate and one of the many placed visited by the king in the early non-permanent government system. The husaby was controlled by a “fogde” (governor), which tells us that

Visingsö Island had an early tax and warehouse function for the king. As the power struggle intensified, however, the importance of controlling a permanent institution representing the central power became clear. The construction of the castle on Visingsö's southernmost tip likely started in the mid12th century, and probably by Sverker the Elder, who had already enabled the establishment of the monastery in Alvastra. In 1156, after having some form of kingship since the 1130's, Sverker the Elder is assassinated on his way to Christmas Mass at the southern foot of Mount Omberg. Sverker's death gives the other family the opportunity to seize power, and Eric IX, better known as “Eric the Holy” becomes king. During a visit to Uppsala Cathedral in 1160, Eric too is assassinated, and in 1161, Sverker the Elder's son, Charles VII, assumes royal power. Charles goes under the Swedish name of Karl Sverkersson and has his permanent base at Näs Castle on Visingsö Island. Most likely, the construction of the royal castle on Visingsö commences during Sverker's reign and is established during Charles' reign. Either way, starting with Charles, Visingsö Island becomes the nation’s permanent centre of power. Charles VII is eventually assassinated as well – at Näs Castle. The assassination is carried out by Eric the Holy's son, Knut, who manages to access the island and kill King Charles in an ambush. This episode is a central part of Swedish author Jan Guillou's story in his first book about the knight templar Arn. Although a work of fiction about a

fictional person, Jan uses the historical figures and events to build a credible plot. In the continuing story of the establishment of the State of Sweden, Visingsö Island remains the key centre of power up until the middle of the 13th century. Around 1250, a new location is established, which will gradually take over Visingsö's role as the national centre, namely Stockholm. The fact that Näs and Visingsö Island eventually become obsolete is a natural part of the development and expansion of Sweden. In the mid-13th century, the kingdom expands eastward, and Finland becomes part of Sweden. Sweden as a country is a fact, and holding the expanding kingdom together from an island in Lake Vättern becomes increasingly impractical. From the beginning of the 14th century, Visingsö Island is thus completely replaced by Stockholm. When we look out over Lake Vättern today, we see Visingsö Island as a beautiful jewel between the western and eastern shores of the lake. We highly recommend that you take the ferry from Gränna out to this historic treasure of an island. In addition to all the beautiful places to visit and all the cosy cafés and crafts shops to discover, going down to the southern tip of the island and gazing out over Lake Vättern's mighty surface is well worth the trip. What you see is not just a unique inland sea in an incredibly beautiful setting but the first chapter of Sweden’s history, one that is worth both reading and telling. The book lies open before you and with that in mind, you can simply sit down and enjoy one of Lake Vättern's many glittering gems. ■



Sustainable growth on the countryside Text: Josefine Gustafsson

Sandra Levingsson between her two sisters. Photo Emma Ivarsson.

They may live on separate sides of Lake Vättern, but they do agree on one thing: – Doing what you love takes courage, but it's worth it! Living your dream is an old expression. Two individuals who really live their dream are Sandra Levingsson, one of three sisters running Flättinge gårdscafé on the east side of Lake Vättern, and Lovisa Larsson, who runs the guiding company Traceless in Tiveden. Both are under 30 but they already have several years of experience running a business on the countryside. When I meet Sandra, I instantly feel that she has a special kind of focus. We sit down with our coffee cups and start talking about the history of the popular farm café in Flättinge, located between Gränna and Huskvarna. – We are the fourth generation on the farm. This is our way of taking it over, Sandra says. She grew up on the farm outside of Ölmstad. Now she’s back after studying service management tourism in Helsingborg in southern Sweden. She believes running her own company before starting her studies was to her advantage. The sisters were 16, 18, and 20 when they started the company in 2014. Sandra's role at the farm café is to manage the staff during summer and help with service. When she talks about the future of the café, it involves the development of course activities. Courses in baking, making candied fruit, and preparing marmalade, where you take the results with you home. They also want others to be able to rent space now that they have a new bakery. One organisation that already does is Eldrimner, the national resource centre for food artisans.

Nature guide Lovisa Larsson by Lake Vättern. Photo Erik Stormark.

AROUND VÄTTERN The sisters also want to develop their own vegetable plot. The rest of the family has studied organic farming on open land at Orsa Folk High School. In terms of sustainability, Sandra says that every purchase is carefully considered. Their two coffee suppliers are the nearby Gårdsrosteriet in Vistakulle and Rutsuka kafferosteri in Gothenburg. They selected them because the founder is from Kongo and knows the farms where the beans are grown and because part of the profits goes back into women's clinics in Kongo.

“Carving your own spoon and then using it to eat your soup that has been prepared outdoors is a wonderful experience” A little while later, I'm listening to nature guide Lovisa's story, admiring her courage and drive as she pours her heart and soul into fully implementing her sustainable ideas. Lovisa lives in Tiveden and runs a small guiding company, teaching tourists to paddle in beautiful wooden canoes and to cook in the forest.

Lovisa moved to Tiveden in 2014. She was born in Askersund, which is not far away. Lovisa chose to study folk music, outdoor life, crafts, and leadership at Sjövik Folk High School outside Avesta in Dalarna County. After her studies, she completed a project that involved living in a tipi for 4.5 years, where she also organised concerts and courses. This was nearby the hostel in Tivedstorp. In 2016, she started guiding tourists around the national park. When Lovisa is not giving guided tours, she works to protect the forest “as a way of giving back” and writes for the magazine Väglöst, among other things. In the future, she would like her tours to include the participants making crafts. – Carving your own spoon and then using it to eat your soup that has been prepared outdoors is a wonderful experience, says Lovisa. She also offers guided art walks to highlight the biodiversity and the state of the Swedish forest. – On the first evening, two women learned the difference between spruce and pine, and another woman learned all the species I pointed out during the hike, Lovisa says, adding that she really loves spreading knowledge about nature while also being able to enjoy nature herself. When it comes to sustainable tourism, Lovisa believes that it's partly about providing activities to help people get out in nature without a bunch of equipment, and partly about maintaining presence in the location where she operates. She is in continuous dialogue with the landowner and views that as part of creating social sustainability on site. ■

Sandra's and Lovisa's best tips for starting your own business on the countryside: 1. Choose something that you're really passionate about – enthusiasm is contagious 2. Get help with your finances 3. Find collaborators nearby – people with whom you can exchange ideas are crucial 4. Be active on social media. There are many great applications for making your own website. 5. Don’t be afraid to get another job on the side. If you have a dream – go for it! You're more likely to regret what you didn't do. Dare to try – at least you know you did. If it doesn't work out, stop doing it. Smålands Turism offers frequent course sessions and plenty of assistance.

Flättinge Gårdscafé. Photo Emma Ivarsson.




Lake Vättern and the weather Text: Josefine Gustafsson

Joel Mellin is the returnee who left life as a television meteorologist to start a crispbread bakery and a shop with climate-smart foods in Gränna.

Meteorologist and crispbread baker Joel Mellin in Gränna. Photo Kai Rehn.

I meet Joel Mellin in the cosy little organic shop Mellins as a delivery of spelt flour is being unloaded. Joel tells me that he switches between lecturing on climate, health, and the environment and running the crispbread bakery and the shop. We have barely sat down before the weather facts start pouring out. Everyone who lives here knows that the weather conditions around Lake Vättern are special. – Much of the climate around the lake is governed by the fact that Lake Vättern is like an inland sea. This means that the lake cools down slowly in the autumn and heats up slowly in the spring. The result is long, nice, warm late summer evenings and a somewhat chilly wait for the summer, Joel says. – It's kind of like living on the west or east coast. Joel then explains that the weather is often beauti-

ful in May–June when the air over the lake is cold. The air does not rise as quickly over the lake as it does over land. As a result, less clouds are formed. That's why Hästholmen and Visingsö are sunnier than, for example, Värnamo, which is in the middle of the Province of Småland. In late summer – September and October – Lake Vättern acts as a source of heat instead. Around Lake Vättern, we thus have local weather characterised by rapid changes. The biggest difference in weather between the east and west sides of Lake Vättern is that it rains more on the west side. The eastern slopes, Östra Vätterbranterna, with Gränna, Vistakulle, and Huskvarna, have a peculiar climate, as they are wedged between the mountain and the lake. The sun warms the mountain side, providing a buffer effect overnight. This effect is also noticeable in the spring, as fog is formed when the air is cooled by the lake instead. The fog often stays for a long time, and it gets cold. – One example was a day in May when it was foggy and 10 degrees Celsius in Gränna but clear and 26 degrees in Vadstena, he says. He goes on to say that a typical cloud spectacle over Lake Vättern occurs when warm air from the lake rises and creates a lot of clouds that give off the so-called “Vättern snow”. This happens when we have very cold winds in the late autumn or winter, and it only



Beautiful weather over Visingsö Island. Photo Joel Mellin.

happens on lakes like Lake Vättern. It won’t snow over nearby towns like Nässjö or Tranås. After a while, we start talking about the changes in climate that meteorologists have long noted. – Globally, the temperature has risen with about 1 degree Celsius in 100 years. The fact that it has become increasingly warm here as well can be noticed by the fewer days of snow, Joel says. The last time you could drive a car on the ice on Lake Vättern was in the 80’s. Joel is himself a passionate skier and loves the snow. His recommendation is to really take the opportunity when we do have snow and ice, since that will happen less often. Other than that, we’ll have to prepare for extreme weather, like the dry summer of 2018. When Joel goes around giving lectures, his clear message is that “business as usual is not an option”. By that, he means that whether we like it or not, we will have to adapt to major changes in the climate. An example of how Joel himself has started to adapt to the climate is his choice to sell organic flour from cereals that can withstand a more extreme climate. Spelt, for example, was able to better cope with the 2018 summer drought thanks to its deep roots. Before leaving the shop, I buy a pack of Extraknäcke crispbread. Then I head out into the Gränna evening, cooled down by Lake Vättern and the mountain. ■

Typical weather on Lake Vättern with clouds that divide. Photo Joel Mellin.



2020 Highlights Subject to changes and cancellations.

JUNE 25 June – 26 July Emil in Lönneberga, Lerbäck Theatre

JULY 6–9 10–12 11

Children’s Week 10 Years Swedish Golf Cup H60 in Åmmeberg Car & Bike Meet

AUGUST 8–9 26

National Dog Show Antiques Market in Askersund

SEPTEMBER 5–6 5 5 19 26

Matresan (A Journey of Food), local food artisans in Örebro County Run of Mine Claes Malmberg with band – CountrymusicComedy Berglund, Harryson & Wells – The Original on Tour Larz Kristerz – In Concert

OCTOBER 2–4 3 4 10 22 25

Ekoloppet (The Eco Race) and Askersund Outdoor Festival Lakeside Pride with Rickard Söderberg 123 Schtunk Klara Zimmergren – It’s All Gonna be Alright Mamma ljuger (Mommy is Lying) – Comedy Performance MAMMA MIA Hits – Johan Stengård and Askersund Men's Chorus

NOVEMBER 12 13 21 29

The 1974 ABBA Tribute Show, Sjöängen Voodoo from Värmland Johnny Cash Roadshow – THE MAN IN BLACK, Sjöängen Advent Concert with Askersund Men's Chorus


Emil’s Christmas – The Swedish Chamber Orchestra and Lerbäck Theatre

For more events, please visit www.visitaskersund.se/evenemang

Photo Pavel Koubek.

Askersund – being here just feels good! Creativity permeates the air at art and music events. Nature beckons with relaxation and activities, and culture can be seen along beach promenades and in museums. The interest in old cars and antiquities at exhibitions and markets is contagious. Taste sensations await just around the corner – as do rest and comfort in unique accommodations. Make yourself at home! Creativity seems to have wings in Askersund. The television series Tjuv & Polis (Thieves & Cops) was filmed in Askersund and shown on SVT1 during the autumn of 2019. Ten local thieves stealing 5 million kronor, which they then try to keep away from the long arm of the law. The town, the countryside, and the beautiful archipelago provided the backdrop for the series, and you can walk in the footsteps of the celebrities or sit down on the lovely Kungsbryggan jetty at Stjernsund, the scene of the thrilling resolution. Be sure to stop by the hairdresser, Elin, one of thieves, and ask what she thought about the ending, or meet our mischievous toy retailer, Johan, who was very much involved.



Askersund Tourism & Events Agency Summertime visiting address: Askersund Harbour Phone: +46 583-810 88 www.visitaskersund.se info@visitaskersund.se Follow us on FB och Instagram

Johan Högberg in his shop. Photo Lea Rausch.

Another celebrity is Emil in Lönneberga, who showcases his shenanigans on the open-air stage of Lerbäck Theatre in this summer’s wonderful family performance. And on Askersund’s new harbour stage, free entertainment accompanies social summer evenings. Don’t forget to visit the Sjöängen Cultural Centre! A fantastic spring and autumn programme features non-stop celebrities in concerts, theatre, and performances. Having fun here is easy!

Add colour to your day Are you interested in arts and culture? Then come join us! This spring’s Art Tour is a great kick-off for all the art events, and the art galleries of Askersund feature fine exhibitions all year round. An exhibition by Folke Dahlberg lines the promenade, and at Olshammarsgården, you can enjoy the imprints of poet Werner von Heidenstam. Creating the unique, skilled craftspeople, like goldsmiths, damask weavers, and potters, gather during Konst i Kvarteret (Neighbourhood Art), and just around the corner, cultural history beckons with guided tours and exhibitions at beautiful Stjernsund Castle and Knalla Mine. Join the guided tour 200 metres underground and hear the fascinating stories of the miners.



The great food Quality, care, and dedication – these are the main ingredients with which we are spoiled by our food artisans. Taste the delights of the somewhat remote Krogensomintefinns or sit down and enjoy a beer tasting at Askersund Brewery. Maybe some fragrant cheese from French-inspired Madame Nature, or why not a chocolate treat at Venus Choklad? At Karintorp, you can pick and choose from the most delicious tomatoes. The taste sensations are plentiful and in keeping with the seasons. An ice cream or a fish platter in the harbour are unbeatable summer classics, and the bakers and restaurateurs at our cosy cafés and restaurants, both in and around town, prepare their food with the utmost care. Matresan (A Journey of Foods) is the main event of the autumn. Visit our talented food producers and growers – taste, smell, and feel their lovely products and listen to them talk about their passion for food! Take a moment and enjoy. Welcome to Askersund!

Rönne Kapell. Photo Sebastian Broberg.

ors ambassad t is r u o t e Th

Photo Lars-Ivar Jansson.

Delicacies from France, Italy and England. Table cloths and ceramics from Provence.

Great food, no stress Name: Bengt Wennerfeldt Age: 63 Lives: In Sköllersta, south of Örebro Family: Wife and grown children Works: Runs the Klockaregården Kök & Servering in Askersund Unexpected special interest: Loves being a know-it-all. Works on the house when time permits. Klockargården Kök & Servering is located on a farm that could be mistaken for a mini zoo. Set in beautiful nature, the restaurant is surrounded by goats, sheep, chickens, rabbits, and beehives. The place has been run by Norra Vätterbygden's local folklore society since 1930. If you want to come by a different mode of transport, you can take the mini train that runs from the harbour along the promenade up to the farm. Bengt Wennerfeldt, professional chef for 30 years, took over Klockaregården a year ago. – Being served good food should be an experience. A meal should leave you feeling that life is good! The best guests are those who take their time. Families who let their kids experience the food without stress, says Bengt. He enjoys connecting with the guests and talking about the food. Last summer, he did some outdoor cooking, and he plans on doing so this summer as well. In the kitchen, anything from traditional Swedish home cooking to fancy feasts are prepared. Bengt particularly likes to cater to the children. Among other things, he organises a “children’s week”, serving only a kids’ menu. Although, all dishes are available in adult servings as well, he says.

Norströmsg. 1 Hamnmagasinet, Askersund Opening hours at www.madamenature.se · Telephone 0046 70 231 99 59


STOCKSH A M M A R kitchen design and interiors

Design products of the season in one of the country’s prettiest shops. – Café – Stockshammar Gård 2 km south of Askersund




Resting wrecks Source: Vätternbåtar by Harry Karlsson

Shipwrecks often have a dramaturgical allure. Stories from the past of exciting journeys with miserable endings. And those are indeed the stories of some of the shipwrecks hiding beneath the surface of Lake Vättern. But not all of them. One of the said stories is that of the last voyage of the “Råbockarna” (the Roebucks) on the first Sunday of Advent in 1871. The four Roebucks and a sloop were on their way home from Jönköping when they were surprised by a snowstorm from the north and sudden icing as they reached the Röcknen Islands. Three of the boats sank while the other two managed to find protection from the winds and anchor. The crew made it ashore. Wet and cold, they found their way to a cabin on the island of Stora Röcknen. Even today, there are traces of the shipwrecked Roebucks, although they are difficult to spot. Much easier to detect are the vessels that were lowered intentionally in some of the protected, shallow bays. The boats on Lake Vättern were often owned by the village associations along the shores. Transporting various goods between the Lake Vättern ports provided additional income. When times got worse for the seafarers, they therefore chose to lower the vessels to preserve them in anticipation of better times. That way, the wood was protected from drying out and leaking. When times got better, they salvaged the vessels and fixed them up. During the first half of the 20th century, several vessels were lowered that never regained a useful condition. You can still see them from the surface in various bays along the northern shores of Lake Vättern. A great place for spotting shipwrecks are the islands off the Medevi jetty. Several shipwrecks, including the sail barge Vålberg and the yacht Tora, can be found here. By the islands farther out, there are even more shipwrecks to look for. If you continue north to Hämplingsviken Bay, you’ll find two sloops. On the shore is a commemorative sign telling the story of the vessels. There are also some shipwrecks a bit deeper down but seeing those require diving knowledge. Best known is probably the Krüger yacht that sank near Orrholmen Islet in Röcknesundet. Another exciting story is that of the steamer Byälven, which sank during a storm outside Fjuk in Motala Bay. The ship was loaded with slaked lime, and when the water penetrated the cargo, the ship exploded. ■■



AROUND VÄTTERN olshammarsgården Verner von Heidenstams birthplace

Welcome to Stjernsunds Castle, Askersund Guided tours Giftshop · Café Open daily May 15th – Aug 31st (castle) May 1st – Aug 31st (café) Closed June 21th More information Castle +46 58310004 · Café +46 58312688 www.vitterhetsakad.se

Klockargården Askersund

* Café, Restaurant, Hotel * Shows of St. Bridget’s Church and Verner von Heidenstam memorial room * Open all year round Located at the northern Vättern archipelago adjacent to Olshammars Marina +46 583 504 30, +46 70 300 02 47 www.olshammarsgarden.com www.aspabatklubb.se

Warmly Welcome!

Verket Restaurant & Bowling – a taste of Askersund! Askersund’s only roof terrace!

Proud suppliers of tasty food to Askersund’s inhabitants and their visitors. Klockargardenmat.se info@klockargardenmat.se

Lilla Bergsgatan 6, Askersund · +46 (0)583-70 30 10 www.bowlingverket.se

+46 (0)73-811 13 80

COSY SMALL TOWN SHOPPING! Stroll around and visit shops, cafés and restaurants in our quaint wooden town. Personal service & free parking.




2020 Highlights Subject to changes and cancellations.

JULY 19 June – 26 July 5, 12, 19, 26 6 7 July – 7 August 14–18 23–25

Photo Konaboard. Afternoon and evening concerts with Medevi Brunnsorkester Motala Bay Islands with M/S Kung Sverker Övralid Day Guided tour on and along Göta Canal every Tuesday and Thursday Motala Folk Race Festival Motala City Festival

AUGUST 8 8 15–16 15 29

Boat Day Diggiloo Concert Medevi Mässa, an Adventure and Recreation Fair Arts and Crafts Market in Old Motala Verkstad Motala Canal Swim

SEPTEMBER 5 5–6 5–6 19

Husbyfjöl Market Östgötadagarna Days Industrial Heritage Guided Tour at Skönnarboleden trail Nya Broloppet Race


An evening with Tommy Körberg

For more events, please visit www.motala.se

Motala. The seaside city of Östergötland! Why not stay in Motala for more than 24 hours? Welcome to Motala – the seaside city of Östergötland. The proximity to water is part of everyday life here. In addition to Lake Vättern, which embraces central Motala, we have been blessed with 170 lakes covering over one hectare. Add to that the fact that Göta Canal runs through our municipality, with a beautiful 3-km stretch through the city from Motala Harbour, Göta Canal's largest marina, to Borenshult's locks. Borenshult's locks connect the canal with Lake Boren, where the height difference between lake and canal is about 15 metres, making the five-lock flight the canal's steepest and a popular tourist attraction. The presence of Göta Canal is especially evident in the little lakeside town of Borensberg, which is the next natural stop when crossing Lake Boren by boat. Borensberg is a lovely town with picturesque views, like that of a canal boat gliding past the historic Göta Hotell. You can rent bicycles in both

Motala Besöksservice (Tourism Service) Phone: +46 141-101 205 upplev@motala.se www.motala.se

Photo Pia Axelsson.

Borensberg and Motala harbours. The canal bank is excellent for cycling. From Borensberg, you can cycle 20 km along the canal to Berg's locks without meeting any cars. Or you can choose a shorter bike ride, maybe one that includes a swim. Unless you have already been to Varamobaden swim area, it is a definite must. With its 2 km of sandy beach, Varamobaden is the largest inland swim area in the Nordic Region. The shallow, crystal-clear waters and the fine-grain sand make it perfect for beach and water activities. Lake Vättern has also given rise to our biggest event, Vätternrundan, which has put Motala on the map as a cycling city. Maybe you have already participated in one of the races during the Cycling Week in June? Make sure to discover more of Motala, whether by bicycle or by other means. Motala Municipality offers nature that is both varied and accessible. At naturkartan.se/motala, you’ll find many sites with a map and descriptions. We also have several legs of the 1,400-km Östgötaleden Trail in our municipality. One of the routes runs between Medevi and Västanvik and with its beautiful views of Lake Vättern and its varied nature of rocks, forest, and footbridges, it is truly like soothing balm for the soul. Don't miss out on Medevi Brunn, a real gem found at the start of the trail. This is the oldest spa in the Nordic Region, a piece of unique cultural heritage in wonderful scenery. Come and experience Motala!



Photo Pia Axelsson.

Photo Ulf Johansson.

Photo Petter Blomberg for Vätterrundan.

Photo Petter Blomberg for Vätterrundan.

Photo Pia Axelsson.

s adsösraedronra b a m s a s t a is b r u m TTuhreisttoa

Fruit and berry products · CAFÉ FARM SHOP & RESTAURANT

Övralid – the ultimate Lake Vättern view

Visit Brunneby Musteri for a flavourful experience.

Name: P-G Andersson Age: 52

Farm Shop opening hours: Mon-fri 9-18, sat 10-16, sun 11-16. Brunneby Musteri, Borensberg

Lives: In Motala, sometimes stays at Övralid Family: Wife, three children, one of which still lives at home Works: As a programme director at the Hotel and Tourism Programme in Motala, as a curator at Övralid Unexpected special interest: Speedway and ice hockey. Listens to Electronic Body Music and Black and Trash Metal.


You may run into a happy man dressed in 30's clothing on your evening tour of Övralid. If you do, you can be sure it’s P-G Andersson. – Being a guide is a lot of fun. I don't rattle off a bunch of facts, I try to bring the stories to life with voices and body language. After a guided tour, I want the visitor to feel that Verner von Heidenstam was an exciting and fun person, P-G says enthusiastically. For 12 years now, he has also been in charge of the Hotel and Tourism Programme at the upper secondary school in Motala. – During the programme, we make several trips, the first of which is around Lake Vättern with two overnight stays. Each pupil gets to guide the others around an object or a site, and everyone really enjoys the trip! As mentioned before, he spends the summers curating at Övralid, and he really loves the area. – I like it here on the border between forest and plains. In ten minutes, you reach the flat plains of Östergötland, and ten minutes the other way will take you into the forest. We have Göta Canal, Stone Age settlements, and a Nobel Prize winner in literature. Especially foreign tourists are impressed by that. And then you have the views of Lake Vättern! I've stood on the steps in every season, fascinated by the view. And if you walk into the forest for five minutes, you’re completely alone.

You can buy a combination ticket for the museum

and the aquarium

Sweden's most popular motor museum! A fantastic vehicle history collected in Motala harbor! A unique collection of cars, MC, engines, vehicles and gadgets. Radio, TV and Foto museum. Fully stocked souvenir shop.

2020 is the Motala Motor Museum's 25th Anniversary! www.hotellnostalgi.se


Platensgatan 2, Hamnen, 591 35 Motala, +46 141 564 00



Motala Motormuseum, Hamnen, Motala, +46 141 588 88



Lake Vättern's health better now than 100 years ago! Text: Josefine Gustafsson

– The beauty of Lake Vättern is magical – the most unique lake there is, Friederike Ermold, a limnologist at the lake conservation society Vätternvårdsförbundet, exclaims. Friederike is the limnologist who grew up in Dresden, obtained her PhD in Uppsala, had children, and moved down to Lake Vättern. She calls herself a climate change nerd. She explains that the temperature in Lake Vättern has increased by two degrees Celsius in the last 30 years. The same goes for similar lakes in other places around the world. But Lake Vättern will remain cold at a depth of 30–40 metres. – Lake Vättern is unique for its long turnover rate of 60 years. 300,000 people get their drinking water from here, and Lake Vättern is doing well today compared to the last hundred years. Up until the mid-20th century, there were big problems with eutrophication and certain environmental toxins. Private individuals, fishing associations, municipalities, authorities, and the EU have joined forces to solve the problems. That’s how Vätternvårdsförbundet, a non-profit organisation since 1957, operates. Their members include all the municipalities, county administrative boards, and regions around the lake, fishing associations, agriculture and forestry, industries, and the military.

– Our primary job is to coordinate the environmental monitoring of the entire Lake Vättern. We collaborate with various universities and experts. A good data base is important to be able to track changes over time, Friederike says, and goes on describing the future challenges.

Climate change People often think that it's getting too hot for the animals, but it's more about the entire system being affected. Typical cold-water species may be pushed out by more heat-tolerant species. Along the shores, where, for example, the char has their spawning areas, the roe develops too quickly. This causes the fry to starve to death as the food doesn't arrive in time.

Alien species There are 15 alien species in Lake Vättern, most of which are found only locally, not affecting the lake itself. However, some invasive species are knocking on the door, like the zebra mussel, the New Zealand mud snail, and the round goby. They could really change Lake Vättern as an ecosystem by driving out other, native species. It's therefore important to keep an eye out for unwanted species when moving your boat or equipment between other bodies of water and Lake Vättern. The signal crayfish was released into Lake Vättern in the 60's. Salmon is another fish not native to Lake Vättern. It does not reproduce there; instead, salmon smolts are released into the lake every year.

Environmental toxins Several environmental toxins can be detected in Lake Vättern, but generally only in low levels. The slow-growing char, which are at the top of the food chain, have been found to contain elevated levels of, for example, dioxin, PCB, and PFOS. However, the levels of old toxins have dropped substantially since the ban in the 70's. The recommendation is not to eat char or common whitefish too often. Children and women of childbearing age should not eat these fish more than twice a year. A microplastics survey was conducted in 2017 together with Örebro University. Only very little is found in Lake Vättern, but the measurement method is new, and studies are ongoing, which means that we don't presently know if and how microplastics affect life in the lake. – But there is much more microplastics in bottled water than in Lake Vättern, Friederike says. Many people are wondering whether there will be mining activities in Norra Kärr. – It is an ongoing matter and it will probably take several years before any environmental review becomes relevant. There is no evidence yet as to how a mine would affect Lake Vättern. Therefore, I have nothing to say about it right now. Vätternvårdsförbundet is definitely monitoring the matter, but we can't go on our gut feeling – we need factual evidence, Friederike is sure to note. You can read more in Vätternvårdsförbundet's reports on the website: www.vattern.org ■■


Experience the steepest locks on the canal

Book now +46 70-626 02 49 Booking and information



Cruise on the Göta Canal

Daily from mid May to mid September With M/S Kung Sverker you will experience a guided tour along the most beautiful part of the canal and the steepest locks on the canal. During the journey, which takes 5 hours, we will pass 12 locks. Motala 10.30 => Borensberg 12.30 Borensberg 13.10 => Motala 15.30 Roundtrip SEK 500, single trip SEK 450:-, children 6-12 y half price. Lunch SEK 200, (main course, softdrink, coffee & dessert)

Restaurant with full rights www.kungsverker.se Only pre-booking

Swedish national poet and Nobel laureate Verner von Heidenstams last home, 1925-1940.

Open: 6/6 – 9/8 and weekends in August Adults 60:-, age 12-15 30:Book and museum shop Serving in “Farfarstugan” Hiking trails around the area +46 (0)141-22 00 36 www.ovralid.se +46 (0)141-22 05 56 www.farfarstugan.se

Photo: Friederike Ermold.

“We don’t sell boats, we sell a boating life.” • We perform every kind of work when it comes to boats, and handle boats up to about 25 tons • We have our own service workshop, with knowledgeable boat builders and engine mechanics • Sales of new and used boats and engines constitute a significant part of our business, as well as our very well-stocked accessory store • Our sales staff will help you with the right products, making your boating life both trouble-free and expedient

Welcome to the William family with staff!

Friederike Ermold from Vätternvårdsförbundet takes a water sample.

AB Motala Båtvarv · Fabriksgatan 26, Motala · +46 141-381800 · www.motalaboat.se Opening hours: mon-fri 9AM-6PM, lunch 1PM-2PM, sat 9AM-1PM



2020 Highlights Subject to changes and cancellations.

MAY 1–25 11 16 16

Spring Walk with Art, Skänninge Guided tour by the Istidsspåret (Ice Age Track), Lake Skogssjön, Mjölby V75 Horse Race, Mantorptravet Guided Nature and Culture Tour, Kulladag V. Harg

JUNE 3 11–14 17 24 26

Music at Gästis, Mjölby Gatebil, Mantorp Park Music at Gästis, Mjölby Music at Gästis, Mjölby Broarnas dag (Bridge Day), Mjölby

JULY 1 23–26

Music at Gästis Mantorp Drag Revival, Mantorp Park


Birger Jarl och Ingrid Ylva utanför Bjälbo kyrka.

Celebrating is fun! This year, we have many reasons to celebrate! The city of Mjölby turns 100 years. The Bjälbo Family’s grand church tower turns 800. Skänninge’s beautiful town hall celebrates 250 years. The world-famous opera singer Jenny Lind was born 200 years ago. And the slapstick comedian, Skånska Lasse, would have turned 140! It all began 800 years ago. The year is 1220. Ingrid Ylva is sitting in her newly built tower in Bjälbo. She can still smell the whitewashed plaster. Ingrid is thinking about how it is now 10 years since the death of her beloved husband Magnus Minnessköld. After his death, she took command of the Bjälbo Family estate. The tower is homely, with many rooms on the different floors. It's also safe, in a time when you don’t know what might happen. Feuding families as well as the Danish army may show up, in which case the thick walls will come in handy. The church is located at the highest point in Bjälbo, giving people a new silhouette to admire. Ingrid is also immensely proud of her children. In addition to being trained in knighthood, her sons, Karl and

Bengt, are also drawn to priesthood, perhaps becoming bishops, in line with the family tradition. Her youngest son, Birger, was only a new-born when his father died. He has been trained at the best knight schools and he excels in Latin – she has made sure of that herself. Ingrid Ylva has gone down in history as one of the strongest women in Sweden during the Middle Ages. Her two oldest sons became knights and bishops at the Diocese of Linköping. Her youngest son, Birger, became an earl and the king's right-hand man. Two of Birger's sons later became kings of Sweden. Even to this day, you can climb up the church tower in Bjälbo and sense the tide of history!

5–6 8 12 14–16 21–24 23

Skänninge Market Öjebro Day Music at Gästis, Mjölby Mjölby Art Tour Mantorp Classic Festival, Mantorp Park Anniversary Golf Competition, Mjölby Golf Club


Car Boot Sale, Mjölby Birger Jarl Day, Skänninge

OCTOBER 1–3 Grande Finale, Mantorp Park 17 Food Fair, Countryside and Hospitality Day For more information on events and guided tours: www.visitostergotland.se/mjolby TOURIST


Tourism Office in Mjölby Municipality Stora torget 2, Skänninge Phone: +46 142-850 03 turistbyran@mjolby.se www.mjolby.se



Skånska Lasse A man named Theodor Larsson arrives in Mjölby to support himself as a furniture maker. He walks around coming up with funny rhymes about current events and putting music to them. People start calling him Skånska Lasse, as his dialect reveals his descent. They like his clever lyrics and catchy tunes. Slapstick comedian Skånska Lasse was born in 1880 – 140 years ago. Among the songs he wrote in the 1920’s are “Johan på Snippen” and “Elektricitetsvisan”. He lived the rest of his life in Mjölby and, today, his home is a museum, and a sculpture preserves him memory. His 140-year celebration takes place throughout the year!

Mjölby 100 years

The town hall and the basket weaver Let's move on to Skänninge. The year is 1770. In the town square, the “basket weaver” is selling her works at the Skänninge Market. Today, she's here to admire the town's pompous brand-new Town Hall. Anticipation permeates the air as Mayor Johan Trolle appears on the steps in his most stately clothes, picked out especially for the occasion. The Mayor points out that a city that has been held in such high regard in history needs a town hall worthy of its reputation! They have therefore hired architect Carl Fredrik Adelcrantz, who has also designed famous building in the royal capital. The town hall, which celebrates 250 years this year, houses Skänninge Town Museum and Skänninge Folklore Society “S:ta Ingrids Gille”. So, who was that basket weaver? Well, you can find out by taking a “mystery walk” in Skänninge, during which you get clever clues to help you figure out who she was while learning more about the town. You can also take a guided tour or walk around on your own!

Now for the celebratory highlight of the year! The big birthday of Mjölby – 100 years in 2020! Let's go back to 31 December 1919. Full of anticipation, people have gathered outside the Centralskolan School in Mjölby, waiting for the clock to strike 12. The bells sound atmospherically over the brand-new city, and Governor Eric Trolle expresses the government's congratulations and welcomes the new city. Lars is standing among the audience, experiencing the grand moment. He thinks back at his ancestors who have lived in the city for hundreds of years. He has been told that one of his ancestors was a miller and that there have been mills by the rippling waters of Svartån River since the 11th century. However, a tumultuous event almost 250 years ago came to change his family's miller heritage. Do you want to know more about the Miller Mystery? Then take a mystery walk in Mjölby! Lots will be happening in this 100-year old city throughout the year, including circus performances, concerts, and various theme weeks.

assadors b m a t is r u The to

Architectural conservation in Väderstad Name: Peter Lind Family: Domestic partner Håkan Zetterqvist, who sometimes helps out in the shop Age: 50 Works: Owner of Väderstad Byggnadsvårdsbutik Lives: In Rinna near Väderstad Unexpected special interest: Gardening Peter Lind opened his well-stocked architectural conservation shop three years ago in the lively town of Väderstad, located a few minutes from highway E4.

Jenny and Adolf Fredrik The world-famous opera singer Jenny Lind would have turned 200 years this year. So, how come we write about her here in Mjölby? Well, the nationally well-known composer Adolf Fredrik Lindblad, born in Skänninge, played a big part in Jenny's education and success. Not only did he compose the music for her, he also let her live in the Lindblad family's home for a period of time. It turns out that this period of time, when Jenny and Adolf Fredrik lived, was an eventful and beautiful time. You can experience it during the Lindblad Day in Skänninge on 30 May 2020. Obviously, you’ll get to meet Jenny Lind, Adolf Fredrik Lindblad, and several other personalities from this time as they walk the city streets.

The shop is housed in the yellow warehouse next to the delicatessen Magasinet Kråkan and the well-known confectionary Väderstad Centralkonditori. His strong interest in architectural conservation and his close connections with Gysinge Architectural Conservation led Peter to start looking for a location for his own shop. – I had always thought of opening a shop like this. We had a holiday home in Sundsvall and were thinking of starting something up there, but my partner is from Norrköping and we had family and friends here in the area. The proximity to highway E4 and Vadstena was also a deciding factor. I love the Province of Östergötland, and we are right on the border to the Småland highlands, with the plains on one side and the forest on the other, Peter says. Today, the shop has over 100 suppliers. Peter strives to have Swedishmade and preferably local products, such as the beautiful wood basket from Linnefors. The shop sells everything from used furniture, doors, gates, and stove parts to egg tempera and linseed oil paint. – We happily offer our customers coffee since they often need some time when choosing a colour, Peter says kindly.



Pilgrimage by Lake Vättern Text: Ingeli Aalto

The Pilgrim Centre is an ecumenical centre run by the Church of Sweden in the Diocese of Linköping. In recent years, they have seen an increasing demand for pilgrimages. Two pilgrim developers have been hired specifically to develop the various routes and facilitate those who come from afar.

We serve organic, plant-based and incredibly tasty food in Sweden’s most cozy railway station in Sya, outside Mjölby, just off the E4. Mjölbyvägen 8, Mjölby • www.opennewdoors.se


Välkommen Välkommen

Här kan ni ströva runt i vår vackra trädgård, fylld av perenner, träd och buskar. Härstroll hittararound du trädgårdsgungor, exklusivagarden, krukor och m.m. trees and Here you can in our beautiful full stenbänkar of perennials, har garden allt du behöver förexclusive att skapa en vacker shrubs.You willVifind swings, pots andträdgård! stone benches etc.

In our relaxing and cozy restaurant offer from our green pea lax med I vår avkopplande och mysiga restaurang erbjuder vi we allt från våreverything Östgötska grön ärstsoppa till varmrökt soup topotatissallad. warm smoked homemade vår hemlagade Läckra salmon smörgåsarwith och our en rad fina bakverk.potato Hos oss salad. finner Delicious du även interiör och sandwiches and En a variety of fine Youborta, will vialso finddigthings fordet interior närodlade produkter. grönskande miljöpastries. är inte långt hjälper att finna i din vardag! and locally grown products.

www.albacken.net Vetagatan 22 595 50 Mjölby 0142 - 109 91

Öppettider mån-fre 10-18 lör 10-16 sön 12-18

The pilgrimage destination is the Vadstena Abbey Church, which was erected according to the vision of Saint Birgitta and which made her famous around the world. Saint Birgitta is the first saint in the Nordic Region and the patron saint of Sweden and Europe. – Everyone talks about Santiago de Compostela, but we have our own routes, Eva Hagström says. Many visitors, especially from Germany and Denmark, marvel at our beautiful nature – at how clean and pristine it is. – Since these pilgrimages have become so popular, it’s important to explain the original meaning of pilgrimage, says Emanuel Eriksson. – In addition to practical information about routes, accommodations, and dining options, we also want to make the inner pilgrimage more accessible, the focus of which is Jesus and stories from the Bible. How can they be highlighted and made relevant to our time? The pilgrim deacon Ewa Lund has worked here since the start in 2002. She had her first profound pilgrimage experience in 1998, and since then she has walked several major routes around Europe. 230 km was her longest, although the length is not what matters. – It is the inner journey. The first thing I learned was to let go and just be. That's when I felt that “I want to keep working with this”. – To our aid, we have seven guiding keywords. A lot is about courage – to dare to live. And to put life in motion – we are created to be in constant motion. – My favourite thing about my job is meeting all the people and the unexpected experiences. Even the difficult situations and the obstacles along the way turn into experiences that help you grow. 28 people from all over the country as well as from Denmark are participating in this Birgitta Pilgrimage. They have walked 60 km in four days. The last stop before their final destination is the 12th century


Örberga Church, one of the oldest limestone churches in the country. – There is a lot of cultural history along the way, says Göran Rydh, a Pilgrim Centre volunteer and an experienced pilgrim. His last walk was between Portugal and Spain, about 600 km. – I started pilgrimaging five years ago and it changed me completely. Today, I live simpler and figure out what I really need, not what I desire. I've received answers to many questions through signs along the way. I have become more tolerant, improved the relationship with most people I encounter, and stopped judging. It has also helped me in my work with addicts. Göran has no church background himself, but he feels carried by faith and trusts in that power. – Faith is not something you can touch or define. It grows in interaction with others, learning from and helping each other through our differences.

Everyone is welcome, but you do need clothes and shoes suitable for hiking. There are trails of various lengths adapted to each and everyone, even those in a wheelchair, like Sonny Persson. He makes the pilgrimage with his two personal assistants for the fifth time and recommends others with disabilities to dare to try as well.

– Putting one foot in front of the other is not as easy as it sounds – whether you're in a wheelchair or not. But with God's help, anything is possible, and if I can do it, so can others who are in my situation. Farmer Siv Erlandsson makes the pilgrimage for the first time. – After a long period of stress, I was completely exhausted and lost in life. This was the best thing I could do – just walk in silence to heal myself, cleanse, and let go – in communion with others. Now I'm slowly returning. As a farmer, it can be difficult to get away, but this is definitively something she wants to continue doing. Ylva Wegler agrees. – What I like here is the openness and the freedom. You can choose whether you want to participate in the Christian sermons offered. – In my profession, I work with helping others search inward. For me, faith is about strengthening each and everyone's own faith that makes them strong. Faith is different for everyone and this gives me an opportunity to fill up on that which I teach. Upon arrival, the church bells ring as the sweaty pilgrims are greeted with water outside the Abbey Church. An evening meal awaits them in the greenery beneath the walnut trees. They eat while sharing their experiences – which can be overwhelming. A lot is processed and may come up during a pilgrimage, when you have time to turn inwards.

Facts: The Vadstena Pilgrim Centre • Open to everyone with daily mass and prayers. A place for rest, reflection, and new encounters. • Organises retreats with accommodation and pilgrimages throughout the year. • You’ll find information about various routes to Vadstena with suitable stops at historically significant churches and abbeys. • You can order guided group pilgrimages, walk on your own, or sign up for organised pilgrimages. • The centre is run by employees and pilgrim hosts (volunteers) during the summer. • On their website, pilgrimscentrum.se, you can find more info as well as a pilgrimage guide for purchase or download. • Seven keywords on your pilgrimage; Freedom, Simplicity, Silence, Worry-free, Slowness, Spirituality, Sharing.

– The last day and the goodbyes are usually an emotional experience, Ewa Lund says. ■

Pilgrimages around Lake Vättern The Franciskusleden route Byarum – Jönköping – Alvastra - Vadstena Divided into different legs, totalling 151 km, via Jönköping and Huskvarna along the eastern side of Lake Vättern, past Gränna and Alvastra Abbey on the border to the Province of Östergötland. Ends in Vadstena. The route has a rich history. Both pilgrims and drifters used to walk here, and kings made their traditional journey “Eriksgata” to Vadstena on horseback.

The Birgittaleden route Goes from Söderköping to Vadstena, approx. 85 km. Along the way, you can find food and accommodation in Linköping, Berg, Borensberg, Motala, and Vadstena. A guidebook is available for purchase at the Linköping Cathedral and at the Vadstena Pilgrim Centre and for download at www.pilgrimscentrum.se

The Klosterleden route

Alvastra – Vadstena Approx. 40 km. Walk over Omberg, the sacred mountain of Östergötland, with views of Lake Vättern. Visit the Convent of the Sacred Heart, continue to the Vadstena Abbey Church. Overnight in one of STF's hostels in Stocklycke, Borghamn, and Vadstena, or at the Vadstena Pilgrim Centre. You can buy a guidebook at the Pilgrim Centre or download it at their website.


The Marialeden route Starts in Ecopark Omberg, approx. 11 km. A day excursion through the forests of Omberg, to Borgham by Lake Vättern, with an option to visit the Daughters of Mary at the Convent of the Sacred Heart. The Marialeden information brochure is available for download.

The Pilgrimsrundan route 95 km on a bicycle path around the bird lake Tåkern.

The Katarinaleden route From the Province of Närke to Vadstena, more info at www.pilgrimnarke.se

Kungslena – Gudhem 22–24 km. Get your pilgrimage stamps at Kungslena Church or at the Gudhem Church, dating back to the end of the 11th century. In 1250, Queen Katarina made a large donation to the Gudhem Nunnery, where she is also buried. The Gudhem Abbey was a nunnery between the 1100’s and 1529.

Hjo – Kungslena 44 km from Hjo on the shores of Lake Vättern to the small medieval village of Kungslena with its church, Lena Castle, and Kungsgården Manor. Pilgrimage stamps are available at Hjo Church, Norra Fågelås Church, Klämmesbo Mission House, Fröjered Church, Hömb Church, and Kungslena Church. Start by Hjo Harbour and Hjo Church and continue to Norra Fågelås Medieval Church, 5 km. Then through the Almnäs Estate, dating back to the Middle Ages and mentioned in 1226 as a monastic estate under Alvastra.



2020 Highlights Subject to changes and cancellations.


Experience creative history. Welcome to Vadstena! In Vadstena, you’ll find yourself amidst history – among castles, courtyards, abbeys, and medieval buildings. The picturesque and quaint town centre with cobbled streets and old preserved wooden houses is charming, authentic, and vibrant. A stroll through town will take you through centuries of history and architecture, but also past cosy shops and delightful dining venues. Vadstena shopping is unique and personal, whether you're into fashion, interior design, antiquities, crafts, or architectural conservation. For the history buff, we recommend the local guided tours and the many museums.

AUGUST–SEPTEMBER 31 Jul – 1 Aug After-Beach Festival 4 & 15 Aug Concerts in the Abbey Church 15 Aug Charity Concert at the Castle 29 Aug Borghamn Day 29 Aug Vadstena Triathlon 5–6 Sep Östgötadagarna Days 11–13 Sep Vadstena Art Tour 14–19 Sep Pride Week 26 Sep Autumn Market and Museum Day For a complete event calendar, please visit


Culture and creativity But Vadstena is so much more than just history. Enthusiasts organize events, activities, and experiences with the town's beautiful surroundings as a stage and source of inspiration. Studios and galleries crowd the town centre and open up for exciting encounters. The creativity is expressed through a strong and proud tradition of expert craftsmanship. While Vadstena lace enjoys a special position, glass, wrought-iron, and other crafts are produced here as well. At the castle, a rock concert is as natural as an opera performance. Recurring summer events include productions by Shakespearefabriken and Vadstena-Akademien, but also Medieval Days, triathlons, and markets. A stay in Vadstena Municipality often leads to personal growth, creativity, and inspiration – for spectators and practitioners alike.

Wednesdays Nostalgia Evening 19 June Midsummer Celebrations in the Park 26 June Stora Knyppeldagen (Great Pillow Lace Day) 4 July – 8 Aug Theatre performances by Shakespearefabriken 3–4 July Sommarknäppen City Festival 4–5 Juyl Medieval Days at the Castle 29 June – 2 Aug Pilgrim Summer 11 Jul Concert with Uggla, Miss Li & Petter at the Castle 18 Jul Tomas Ledin in Concert at the Castle 18–19 July Crafts Fair in the Park

Nature is varied and very close by, with the birdrich Lake Tåkern, the lovely fertile Östgöta Plains, and, of course, Lake Vättern. You’ll find food made with locally grown ingredients and you can visit market gardens and farm shops. Vadstena's beautiful gardens and proud cultivation tradition are widely recognised. Lake Vättern invites you to go swimming, fishing, kayaking, and boating. The plains are bicycle-friendly with winding roads between churches and rolling cornfields. Vätterviksbadet swim area is shallow and perfect for children, with a bicycle path from the centre of town. The welcoming marina at Vadstena Castle is popular with those boating on Lake Vättern and Göta Canal.

Recommended links: www.destinero.com/user/1985 info.vadstena.se/kreativa-historier www.sveaskog.se/upplev-skogen/besoksomraden/ ekopark-omberg TOURIST


Vadstena InfoCenter Storgatan 28 Tel: +46 (0)143-315 70 info@vadstena.se


At the foot of the mythical Mount Omberg, Borghamn offers a moment's rest on your pilgrimage to Vadstena. In Borghamn, Limestone quarrying and fishing have been the main sources of livelihood for almost a thousand years. On Mount Omberg, you can find ancient castles from the Migration Period. The impressive scenery on the mountain offers wonderful cycling and hiking adventures with spectacular views of Lake Vättern. The Östgötaleden Trail, also known as the Pilgrim Trail, crosses the mountain and guides you via Borghamn to Vadstena. For centuries, people have come to Vadstena in search of recreation and inspiration. Vadstena Abbey Church is one of the world’s pilgrimage destinations. The church presents the story of Saint Birgitta, and many music events are organised here. The Pilgrim Centre in the historic abbey upholds the tradition and is open to everyone. Others find what they're looking for on their own, through yoga, or in the spa. It is especially peaceful here in the spring and autumn, with lots of room for recreation. This is a place to feel good. Vadstena has always been a town to marvel at, to visit, to return to, to enjoy, and to stay in. Vadstena doesn't have just one story – it has many. And we make them together. Welcome to Vadstena!


t amba The touris

120 years of fashion Name: Gilla Eke-Göransson Age: 61 år Lives: in Vadstena Family: Five grown children Works: Runs the shop Strandbergs Mode in Vadstena Unexpected special interest: Passion for horses – To me, fashion is culture, the way we live, and a reflection of society, Gilla Eke-Göransson explains. She grew up in Vadstena and is the 4th generation of women to run the fashion shop Strandbergs Mode in Vadstena since its opening in 1897. For 20 years, she commuted all the way from southern Skåne before returning to her hometown. – I am very interested in colours and design, but meeting people and the personal aspect are equally important, Gilla says. The shop features unique, handpicked items from international brands. 80% of customers come from other places. She can have customers from Brazil, Norway, and Gränna in the shop all at the same time. They used to have branches, but these days, customers from all over Scandinavia return here every year, Gilla says. – Many people today associate shopping with an experience. Vadstena is a unique commercial town in a medieval setting. This is a place you travel to all year round for its culture, nature, and sights. It's the whole package. The local tourism is also very important. Mothers and daughters come from Linköping to spa and stay at the abbey hotel. – I love this small town in that it’s so great in all that it offers. As an example of the town’s unique offering, Gilla mentions Vadstena-Akademien, which comprises young musicians training in opera, classical, and contemporary music. They perform at the castle or in the old theatre.

Borghamn Strand Hotel / Hostel / Café

Borghamnsvägen 1, 592 93 Borghamn Tel 013-81000 • info@borghamn.com • www.borghamn.com








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The region around Lake Vättern is not only home to Sweden's oldest golf course, it also likely offers the most varied range of courses you can find in such a defined area, from beachside courses on rolling plains and courses in beautiful castle settings to hilly and exciting forest courses.



1. Brevikens Golf Club 2. Askersunds Golf Club 3. Motala Golf Club 4. Vadstena Golf Clubb 5. Ombergs Golf 6. Östad Golf 7. Mjölby Golf Club 8. Visingsö Golf Club 9. Gränna Golf Club 10. Wiredaholms Golf Course 11. Tranås Golf Club 12. Hooks Golf Club 13. A6 Golf Club 14. Jönköpings Golf Club 15. Skinnarebo G & CC 16. Sand GC 17. Ryfors Golf Club 18. Hökensås Golf Club



10 17 9


14 15

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Welcome to Gränna Golf Club! We offer you a nice, well-managed and technically interesting forest/park course, built in the castle environment around Västanå Castle dating back to the 17th century. Book your start time via Sweetspot or call us!

+46 390-100 30 www.grannagk.se




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Gouache- & watercolour painting Courses of expressions in color and shape of large formats

Ylva Sagers Ateljé

Storgatan 29, Vadstena +46 739 983 003 sagerylva@gmail.com · www.facebook.com/ylva.sager www.kurser.se

Skänningegatan 1, Vadstena +46(0)143-131 70 restauranghornet.se


�odsteno \{onstrunä0


TRY THE PILGRIMAGE WITH SLEEP OVER Wed-Thu during July / Aug. 500: - incl. simple lodging, food and pilgrim certificate.



va d stena konstrun d a.se


Daily guided tours For more information and opening hours:



Kings Knights Pilgrims Nuns and Saint Birgitta








• Folkuniversitet.et




11-1 3 september 2020





Stora Torget | strandbergsmode.se | strandbergsmode@gmail.com | +46 143100 14



The tides of history in scenic Ödeshög 2020 Highlights For a complete event calendar, please visit www.odeshog.se/turism Stay updated on all the fun events: www.odeshog.se

Visit Ödeshög @visitodeshog



Ödeshögs Tourist information Tel: +46 (0)144-351 67 tourism@odeshog.se www.odeshog.se

In the town of Ödeshög, history is brought to life in a very real way. Here you can find the Alvastra Abbey Ruins, with remains of the Cistercian monastery founded in 1143. The abbey was in use up until the Reformation in the 16th century. Another exciting historical site is Rökstenen from the 9th century. It stands next to Rök Church. On the stone is the world's longest runic writing. If you want some insight into the Viking Age, there are several guided tours to choose from. In addition, there are three ancient castles to visit on Mount Omberg.

Hike on the mighty Mount Omberg

Ellen Key’s Strand

The wooded Mount Omberg offers grand views of Lake Vättern and dramatic slopes. Take the time to hike here – on your own or with a guide. Several hiking trails of varied nature and difficulty wind their ways near Ödeshög and Mount Omberg. In 2019, one of these trails was selected as a Signature Trail. A signature trail is a trail nationally rated for its high quality. The 87-km signature trail runs on Mount Omberg between Boxholm and Stocklycke. If you want some extra excitement, you can try zip-lining or paddle boarding on the mountain.

Ellen Key was a central figure in Swedish cultural life in the late 19th century and early 20th century. She was a diligent debater and author. During peak season, tours of Ellen Key's home, “Strand”, located at the foot of Mount Omberg, are offered every weekday except Mondays. If you work up an appetite on your Omberg visit, good food can be found at Stocklycke Hostel or the well-known Ombergs Turisthotell. Ombergs Turisthotell, by the way, has been rated by the White Guide. You can also try one of the cafés in the quaint town centre of Ödeshög. The town centre offers a wide variety of small-scale shops, including anything everything from a fish shop, a toy store, a hardware store and second-hand store to bicycles, car service, and car accessories. Don’t forget to try the locally made chocolate at Narr konfektyr!

Lake Tåkern for birds and kids The bird lake Tåkern and Naturum Tåkern are popular destinations during all seasons. Naturum, with its spectacular architecture, offers exhibitions, information on animals and plants in the area, and


much more. The little ones can walk the Princess Estelle’s fairy-tale trail. The trail goes through the forest and along the shores of Lake Tåkern. There is also a nature playground for kids of all ages. Lake Tåkern has several bird towers as well as suitable spots for observing the many bird species that pass through here during the year. Lake Tåkern is considered an internationally valuable bird lake, with a rich bird life and an exciting flora on the meadows around the lake.

Rent a kayak in Hästholmen Harbour In the harbour community of Hästholmen, you can go swimming, diving, and kayaking. You can find slots for mooring your own boat, RV parking, and, last but not least, award-winning ice cream. You’ll also find the Tourism Office here. Ödeshög has a great deal to offer – whether you're looking to exercise, hike, go on excursions, or just relax. Take the opportunity to really enjoy the silence on Mount Omberg, in the Holaved Forests, or during a forest swim at the unique Urnatur accommodations.

s adsösraedronra b a m s a s t a is b r u m TTuhreisttoa

New restaurateurs in Hästholmen Harbour Name: Anders Lindholm

Family: Brother, sister, and mum Age: 60 år

Works: Owns, along with Peder, Vätternskutan, the harbour restaurant in Hästholmen Lives: in Hästholmen, originally from Vadstena Unexpected special interest: Sailing

This year, you can visit the brand-new restaurant Vätternskutan in the beautiful Hästholmen Harbour. The establishment is run by Anders Lindholm and Peder Ejneberg, experienced restaurateurs from Vadstena. – This is a place to dine, have coffee, or enjoy a glass of wine or a beer in peace and quiet. It is primarily a summer restaurant, although we will be open during winter if there is sufficient interest. We focus on Swedish cooking and will be serving dishes like beef cheek and char, Anders says. Vätternskutan will also house Ödeshög Tourism Office. Hästholmen has a marina for those who arrive by boat. There is also RV parking here. If you want to stay the night, there are three small cabins available for rent. You can spend the day hiking on Mount Omberg and enjoy a barbecue in the evening. The nature experience is powerful here in the bay. – Lake Vättern is just a stone's throw from here, and Mount Omberg is right across the bay. If you climb the steps on the mountain to the lighthouse, you can enjoy a beautiful sunset after your dinner, Anders says encouragingly.

Anders and Peder, owners of restaurant Vätternskutan, Hästholmen.




Paragliding by Lake Vättern Text: Eva Mac Lachlan

Eva has just taken off from Brunstorp, Huskvarna. Photo: Ulf Mårtensson

I'm standing at Mount Brunstorpsberget's lookout point with its steep slope start, looking out over my homeland. Lake Vättern lies in front of me like a blue sea. The leaves of the trees are just starting to sprout, painting the entire slope in different shades of green. In recent years, this place has come to have a special pull. Not a day goes by without me checking the weather forecast to see if it’s flyable up here. Today it looks promising. My expectations are high. The treetops begin to move, and I can feel the wind on my cheeks as I get my hair out of my face. I place my lime green paraglider wing on the grass, buckle into my harness, and perform my safety checks. I pull up the wing that fills with air.

The lines stretch out, I do a quick check to confirm that everything looks ok before I turn around. I take a couple of steps and ease off the ground, flying out over the slope. The wind carries me higher and higher. An indescribable feeling comes on. I'm flying! This powerful experience is just as strong every time, no matter how many hundreds of times I've done it. I am free, all other thoughts disappear. This is mindfulness at its best. The Östra Vätterbranterna slopes have become popular with paragliders in the last five years, attracting pilots from all over Sweden. Brunstorp in Huskvarna, Brahehus, and Kleven in Uppgränna are fantastic spots when the winds are coming in from the west. These are the most popular places, although we do fly from Elmia and Omberg as well. Ålleberg, the plateau outside Falköping, is another great place for paragliding and gliding.

On several occasions, paragliders have taken off from there and, with the help of thermics and the right winds, been able to cross Lake Vättern and land in Gränna. There are about 1,400 paragliders in Sweden. To start doing this sport, you must complete a course and obtain a licence, which you can do in several places around the country. If you want to try it, you can do a tandem flight, flying with another pilot using the same wing. ■■


Fiskboden in Ödeshög Locally fished from nearby lakes!

• • • •

Pike-perch Perch Pike Redding

• • • •

Trout Crayfish Pike paté Smoked fish

• • • •

Salmon pudding Eat-ready dishes Take away And much more!

Fresh fish subject to availability and season.

Welcome to our fishmarket at Torget Stora torget 4, Ödeshög. Open: Call 076-8270361, or see FB Gallery Omkultur shows and sells local products. Here you will find art and crafts.

• exhibition and film Ulf flying at Brunstorp and the Strand Farm. Photo: Eva Mac Lachlan

• bird watching tower • guided nature tours • activities for kids • nature trails

Facts about paragliding The equipment, which you can carry on your back and easily bring on your trip, consists of a wing with a wingspan of 20–30 m2, a harness, and an emergency wing. The equipment weighs about 10 kilos and costs between SEK 15,000 and 40,000. Paragliding is a spectator-friendly sport, attracting many visitors to our paragliding locations. Feel free to visit our lovely take-off points when the southwest to northwest wind is just right. You’ll also find lovely hiking trails near the paragliding spots and a cosy café on Kleven. More information can be found here:

www.paragliding.se/omskarmflygning villflyga.nu flyg.ulfm.se/sv/vattern

Opening hours, bookings and program:

naturumtakern.se 0144-535155 naturum.takern@lansstyrelsen.se




2020 Highlights

Gränna and Visingsö Island – the idyllic and the gem! On the south-eastern shore of Lake Vättern, the town of Gränna is a typical Swedish idyllic community, with beautiful old wooden houses, well-kept gardens, and cobbled streets. From the harbour, ferries depart frequently for Visingsö Island – the gem of Lake Vättern! Both Gränna and Visingsö offer beautiful views, castles, cobblestones, charming wooden houses, castle ruins, trails, and oak forests. And not least, a fascinating history. Wherever you set foot, you find yourself amidst history. You can come here to enjoy the tranquillity, nature, and atmosphere, but you can also choose from a wide selection of culture, activities, and adventures. Every year, during a weekend in August, Visingsö is transported back in time to its heyday. Experience medieval jousting with knights, jesters, and a market with both food and clothing inspired by the era. In mid-August, it's also time for the Bluegrass Festival in Gränna. Enjoy a unique music festival of lovely folk music mixed with country in a beautiful setting. If you visit Gränna a little earlier this summer, you may even catch the music event, the Diggiloo Tour, when it comes to town.

is well suited for all outdoor people. On Visingsö, you can take a tour with “remmalag”, the popular horse-drawn carriages that have transported people around the beautiful island for over 100 years. The ride is at a leisurely pace, allowing you to enjoy both scents and nature.

Nature experiences

Exciting history

For nature enthusiasts and botanists, this region is a paradise, with nature reserves, amazing views, and one of Sweden's largest oak forests. The gorgeous nature is rich in unique plant and animal species, several of which are rare or even endangered. With hiking trails and charming country roads for cycling, both in Gränna and on Visingsö, this area

Whether you are on Visingsö or in Gränna, you’ll find plenty of remnants from past periods of glory. In Gränna, you can visit the Grenna Museum, which highlights the polar history with, for example, the exhibit on S A Andrée’s famous polar expedition. Several castle ruins and towers in the county bear witness to former periods of great power. In Näs,

Every year, Gränna and Visingsö Island offer many wonderful events, everything from markets and art tours to concerts and jousting. 2020 is a different year for all of us, not least for all the events, several of which have been postponed. Organisers are doing their best to come up with alternate solutions. For up-to-date information on all events, please visit Jkpg.com Scan the QR code to access the page:

Cycle along lush forests on beautiful Visingsö Island.

What would you like to experience? Jkpg.com TOURIST


Tourist information tel +46 (0)771-211 300 info@destinationjonkoping.se jkpg.com



In Gränna, peppermint candy sticks are made all year round.

The harbour in Gränna.

The oak forest on Visingsö Island.

The ruin in Näs.

You can easily cross the entire Visingsö Island by bicycle.

on Visingsö’s southern tip, lies the ruin of Sweden's first royal castle from the 12th century. The Visingsborg Castle Ruin, located in Visingsö Harbour, is another relic from the count era of the 16th and 17th centuries. Yet another popular remnant from the same period is Brahehus, beautifully situated at the top of northern Gränna with amazing views of the town and the water. Röttle Village, just south of Gränna, is Count Per Brahe's industrial village from the 17th century. Here you can visit the Rasmus Mill and see how they used to grind flour back in the day.

Local delicacies Peppermint candy sticks! Most people in Sweden associate Gränna with “polkagrisar”, the red-and-white striped candy. Production started in Gränna in the 1850’s by the poor widow Amalia Erikson. Ever since, peppermint candy sticks have been made here, and every year, new, exciting flavours and shapes of this highly popular souvenir are introduced. Today, there are numerous shops in Gränna where you can watch the production process. In some, you can even try making your own candy sticks. But Gränna and Visingsö are so much more than just sweet peppermint candies. You’ll find several local delicacies in the form of home-made must, tea, chocolate, and more. Recently, the popular crispbread Gränna Knäcket has taken the market by storm. In the small shop on Brahegatan in central Gränna, you can botanise among all the goodies and even see how they are made. And if you'd like to try making your own hard bread, you're welcome to book an appointment for that.

Enjoy the view from the top of Kumlaby Church.

ors ambassad t is r u o t e Th Tempelgården – unique accommodation and organic café Name: Catrin Leo and Lars Hansson Age: 58 and 68

Lives: In Olle Krantz old home in Säby, in northern Visingsö.

Works: Run Tempelgården with 7 rental cabins, a café, and a ceramics workshop.

Unexpected special interest: Lars has taken up golf at the nearby 9-hole course.

Tempelgården Café and Ceramics is housed in the round house built by Visingsö artist Olle Krantz (1906–1999) from the casting mould for the harbour pier. Enjoy shrimp sandwiches, ice cream, and the finest pastries. Catrin and Lars, who run the business, moved here in 2017. Catrin used to work in preventive health care. She is also a ceramicist, while Lars is a former computer programmer as well as a skilled craftsman.

– We want to offer the tranquil atmosphere found here on the farm. It's nice and quiet with lake views in three directions. Guests are welcome to rent bicycles. We open on 25 May and close after the harvest festival on 14 September, Catrin says. She also recommends guests to book a day of “make your own ceramics”, offered during June and August. – Another new treat is that you can book transport by the horse-drawn carriage known as “remmalag” from the harbour to Tempelgården, Lars says and adds that they have been selected as an Infopoint.

The name “Tempelgården” comes from the tempel-like structure that Katherine Tingley had built by the harbour for a peace conference on Visingsö Island in 1913. It was to be used for an art exhibition, featuring great artists such as Carl Milles, Kristina Gyllenkrona, and Carl Larsson. In the 50’s, Olle Krantz bought the building and, today, you can see his art here, as well as everywhere in the garden. The cabins that Olle brought here from different parts of the island are now available for rent.



From dark to bright The shop STEN on Visingsö Island is housed in an old 40's stone building that used to be a combined smithy and hardware store. After the death of former owner, Rune Gustafsson, the premise was bought by Marie Bergman, her partner Mikael Brunell and daughter Amanda. Many islanders probably wanted it to continue as it was, but the new owners had other plans. Instead, they began a major renovation project, turning the black, dirty, and oily into white, bright, and pristine! After a lot of hard work, on both the inside and outside, the shop now breathes new life with a lovely mix of fashion and interior design, as well as yarn, linseed oil, plants, and some edible goodies. – Just when the shop opened, an old man came in and stood there looking around for a long time, both thumbs hooked under his suspenders. Finally he said to us “Rune should have seen this”, and he shed a tear, Marie says, as a tear rolls down her own cheek. Today, they have run the shop STEN here on the island for four summers and customers are starting to know them, returning again and again. – We are incredibly happy to have ended up on this very spot, on lovely Visingsö Island. Surrounded by beautiful nature and unique tranquillity, we feel relaxed even when we go a hundred miles an hour, Marie says. She has been in this business for over 30 years and Amanda was practically born into it. – We really share our passion for this! We love creating, and sharing this interest makes it even more fun, Amanda says. Marie adds: – We are always on the lookout for new, unique, and cool things for the shop, and we try to find carefully selected goodies from many suppliers to create a wonderful feel. They are passionate about the aesthetic and, according to themselves, their style is bright, simple, timeless, calm, and harmonious. White, natural, grey, brown, and black are dominating colours. Their style of clothing is also rather simple and timeless. Lots of natural fabrics, like linen and cotton. The shop normally opens for the season after midsummer and opening hours usually vary depending on weather conditions. You’ll find their opening hours and lots of other things on their Instagram: @stenvisingso. You can also see how they decorate their own home at @enkeltoljust.






Inside the old smithy.




NOSTA16t museet F;;,,, r/ig Jou<, gäJura, � r/ig 1JllJ;ah,,...

120 m2 exhibilion on Visinl!sö with 50th .:entury apartment, .:ale, old vehit:les, radios, BP-eas station, and more. 1708-241688








Brahegatan 43 0390-123 08 www.grannaknacke.se

Catering and restaurant with outdoor serving Complete rights Öpen during summer all days 11-18 – Some days open in the evening for barbecue.

Brahegatan 43

0390-100 57 www.fiket.se

Flower shop & garden market in a unique environment We like sustainable fashion and design!

See all info at hannaskok.se

Hanna´s KöK Catering · Mat & Fest

Ödeshögsvägen 36, Gränna hannaskok.se

Own production of Swedish design. Shop without middle hands at good prices. We like sustainable fashion! Here you will also find beautiful jewelry.

www.ebeplant.se Skiftesvägen 6, Gränna

Welcome to visit us in Grevskapet Gränna-Visingsö! – There’s an app for that! In the app you will find everything that is going on and you get full overview over accommodation, cafes, restaurants, shops, museums and other activities. Of course you will also find events like concerts, festivals, markets and the like. As an added bonus great deals of different types will show up in your phone depending on where you are! Welcome to Grevskapet Gränna-Visingsö!

Open 2020

may – august: mon - fri 11-18, sat - sun 11-16 The rest of the year: wed - fri 11-18, sat - sun 11-16 Our clothes are also for sale at Brunneby Gårdsbutik in Borensberg, 20 km west of Linköping.






At home in Hanna's kitchen Text: Josefine Gustafsson

Hanna Sundqvist is a mother of six with a passion for food and people. So, what could be better than to open a restaurant and invite guests to the child-friendly garden in Gränna? – I love to make other people feel good and I love to cook, Hanna says enthusiastically.

The garden café opened last summer, but she has run her own business since 2016. Hanna's kök offers catering all year round. The licensed restaurant and garden café are open during summer and host occasional Friday barbeques with a troubadour. Camping guests can ride their bicycles here. You can also book a breakfast buffet or a full evening with your friends. – The demand when I was out catering became so great that it led me to opening a restaurant here at home. The garden and the swings make it child-friendly, allowing parents to sit down and relax. It was Hanna’s husband who first came up with the idea. He had a garage that she could take over. Next to it is a large terrace that seats 24 people. In the small restaurant, Hanna sometimes have bridal couples. Many people want to hire her to help plan confirmations, graduations, and weddings.

How do you find the time? – I'm used to having lots of people around. I used to work at Grennaskola Boarding School, where things were hectic all the time. I'm also very flexible and open to most things. My husband gets involved and helps with the barbequing in the summer. Her youngest, born in 2017, usually joins her at work and there’s always someone around to look after her. The older daughters also help with the serving, she says, before rushing to pick up from day-care. ■ Garden café at Hanna’s place.


The clinic in Gränna Medical massage therapy, classic Swedish massage Book a treatment +46-(0)735-34 45 97 Daniel Winneräng Brahegatan 44, Gränna

Summer hours: 10 AM to 8 PM all days from June 29 to July 26! Food, cheese and charcuterie, many local and organic products 10 year Anniversary 2020!


3D0-70% iscount!

We have a little bit of everything, stuff that fits most! Traditional hardware store where you will find a little of everything, from fishing licenses, recreational and household goods to paint, tools and electric equipment.


Summer openings: Weekdays 10-18. Sat 10-18. Sun 10-16. Regular openings: Weekdays 10-18 | Sat 10-14 | Brahegatan 41, Gränna

Follow us on Facebook

Clearance at the backyard, new & used stuff – 50% off! Welcome in for a great BARGAIN!

Brahegatan 53, Gränna Tel +46 (0)390-100 43

for Bunn and Kvarnsjöarna



Welcome to Getingaryds Camping & Cabins Playground Miniature golf | Fishing Boats | Bikes

9 km north of Gränna along the tourist road between Gränna and Ödeshög. Phone +46 390-210 15, +46 70-723 31 72

www.getingarydscamping.se info@getingarydscamping.se




Photo: roomofkarma.se


GRÄNNA HARBOUR +46 708 14 01 18 grannarokeri.se

Brahegatan 45, Gränna · +46 (0)390-650220 · webshop: www.polkaprinsen.se

Invest in yourself Courses Guidance Healing Tarot cards Haunted houses Pet communication FB Linda Hörinder Medium +46 (0)70-356 13 97

We are fully certified mediums.

We make our candy sticks just as Amalia did – by hand and with love. Our shop has something for everyone. Welcome in!



Fresh barbeque • Fresh saladbar Manual delicatessen • Our own delicious shrimp sandwich


6-23 FB Medium Tina Sjunnesson +46 (0)70-374 00 77


You find us in Ascendenten 22, Brahegatan 42, Gränna at Kulturgården, next to Grenna Museum. Welcome to book us!

Creative workshop in Gränna

Welcome to our churches

GRÄNNA VISINGSÖ Brahegatan 24, Gränna Tel +46 390-561 30

Make your own paper by hand – with fresh flowers, grass and herbs or white acid-free sheets for watercolours Book family, friends or your colleagues at work Call +46 (0)70-673 80 48 or e-mail: sandegren.eva@gmail.com


GRÄNNA KYRKA Brahegatan, Gränna.



Wisingsborg, Visingsö.

Information and opening hours:


open Always ers! p for cam

e Welcom t! by boa



45 45

Match museum that stands out

Explore the history of Gränna


Free entrance

He is here now. New exhibition on polar history and S A Andrée’s North Pole Expedition.

Nov–Feb Dec–Jan

JUNE – AUG Mon– Fri 10–17 Sat–Sun 10–15 +46 36-10 38 90 www.grennamuseum.se

SEP–MAY Thue–Sun 11–15 Mon closed


May-September May-September Weekdays: Weekdays: 10-17 10-17 Weekends: Weekends: 12-16 12-16

October-April October-April Weekdays: Weekdays: 10-15 10-15 Weekends: Weekends: 12-16 12-16

Moose singing and snow falling in a magical setting John Bauer’s artwork in a playful exhibition Free entry jonkopingslansmuseum.se

036-14 6114 • www.husqvarnamuseum.se +46 61 www.husqvarnamuseum.se +46 (0)36 (0)36 1462 61 62 62 www.husqvarnamuseum.se



2020 Highlights Jönköping is a true event city, hosting anything from the Ironman 70.3, bicycle races, and marathons to DreamHack, concerts, and jousting. 2020 is a different year for all of us, not least in terms of all the events, several of which have been postponed. Organisers are doing their best to come up with alternate solutions. For up-to-date information on all events, please visit Jkpg.com Scan the QR code to access the page:

Welcome to Jönköping and Huskvarna! Jönköping is beautifully situated along the southern shore of Lake Vättern. Here you can enjoy city pulse, beach life, and nature. Jönköping's city centre features cosy alleys and canals that open up to three lakes. The old mill town of Huskvarna, east of Jönköping, offers a wealth of cultural treasures to discover.


What would you like to experience? Jkpg.com

Central Jönköping has a wide selection of shops and lovely restaurants. The pier is one of Jönköping's watering holes, providing a place for food, socialising, or just an ice cream in the sun on what may be Sweden’s longest park bench. From the pier, the beach promenade, a path of several kilometres of sandy beaches, stretches along the crystal-clear waters of Lake Vättern. In central Jönköping, on the north-eastern shore of Lake Munksjön, is the Atollen. Here you’ll find restaurants, cafés, and shops, and during sum-



Tourist information tel +46 (0)771-211 300 info@destinationjonkoping.se jkpg.com

Jönköping city.

mer, there are numerous activities on and around the lake. Some of the water-front events this summer include Ironman 70.3, Jönköping Open Water, Jönköping City Race, and Jönköping Marathon. If you want to experience the area by bicycle, there are plenty of lovely country roads to discover. If you’re looking for something a little more challenging, there are several MTB trails in the municipality. And if you want shopping, you’ll find various cosy shops in the city, or why not head to Asecs, a shopping centre conveniently located along the E4 with about 80 shops, open seven days a week, all year round. Lately, Jönköping has been recognised as a Mecca for sushi. So, if you're in the mood for healthy and delicious food with Asian influences, you’ve come to the right place. In addition to sushi, there are plenty of high-quality restaurants with different cuisine. Jönköping offers many beautiful views. If you want a great view of the city, there are several lookout points to choose from. Some of them include the peak of Mount Taberg in Taberg, Vattenledningsparken, Jönköping City Park, or Utsikten in Huskvarna. The perfect destination to go with a tasty picnic basket and good company.



Huskvarna The district of Huskvarna has developed around its world-famous industry. Today, visitors come to, for example, Husqvarna Museum, where products such as rifles, motorcycles, stoves, and sewing machines are on display, along with many other products made in the factory for 325 years. Right next door is Smedbyn, with its charming red cabins housing handicraft studios, cafés, and galleries. Every summer, several great artists come to perform in Huskvarna Folkets Park. In addition to popular concerts, the park also hosts the traditional Car and MC Meets every Wednesday.

Culture The unique Match Museum is located in the area where the match factory was once the main building. The museum tells the story of an industry that once upon a time was vital to the city. You’ll also find galleries, various craftspeople, and restaurants here. The Jönköping County Museum is located just a short distance away. At this art and cultural-historical museum, you can visit, among other things, John Bauer's magical fairy tale world. The exhibition “Följa John” (Swedish expression for “Simon Says”) invites both young and old to explore the great picture treasure of John Bauer. Higher up, and with an amazing view of Jönköping, is the City Park. You’ll find restaurants and coffee shops, as well as scenic hiking trails along animal enclosures. The park also includes Fröjden, a popular outdoor dance venue, an open-air museum, Jönköping’s largest playground, and a unique bird museum. There is a lot more to say about Jönköping and its surroundings – but how about it exploring it in person instead? Welcome!

Romantic Hotel Hostel Yoga Phone +46 36 14 88 70, www.hhv.se Odengatan 10, Huskvarna

rudenstams gårdsbutik & kafé

in our farm store you will find selected products from our local suppliers and the café is filled with cakes made of apples from our farm. lunch is served daily. welcome!

Open: Mon-Fri 10.00-18.00, Sat 10.00-15.00. www.rudenstam.se

The Bauer forest at Vista kulle.

Fruit farm north of Huskvarna.

Food and “fika” in our cosy cottage with a fantastic lakeview over Vättern! Open every day



rs mbassado a t is r u o t The

New in old Huskvarna Name: Christer Alzén

Family: Wife and three children Age: 50 år

Works: A baker and pastry chef, owner of the Landhs confectionaries Lives: in Habo, raised in Huskvarna

Unexpected special interest: Quizzes Kroatorpet has long been a destination for both locals and tourists. Christer Alzén, current owner of the café, has himself strong summer memories from here. Since the 18th century, Kroatorpet has served as a hub in the area. It was initially run as an inn by a mythical woman. In recent years, it has been converted into a cosy café, open all year round. – For a period back in the day, we played a lot of tennis, and we always rented the courts from Kroatorpet, Christer says with nostalgia in his voice. The building is owned by the highly active Huskvarna folklore society. The society runs both the popular Husqvarna Museum and Kruthuset, located right next to Kroatorpet. Kruthuset dates back to 1771, and since 1949, the building is home to Huskvarna City Museum. Many of the visitors stay for coffee or just to enjoy the view of Lake Vättern. – Huskvarna and the entire area here are recognised as an UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. The area offers unique nature for exploring, and other exciting projects are underway. In connection with the construction of 900 flats, the industrial area will be removed, and a new park will be created up by Norrängen. – Jönköping has become a wonderful summer city! I especially love the summers when you can swim in Lake Vättern. There is almost a “riviera” feel to the beaches of Lake Vättern, Christer says longingly.

Heated pools – always 27oC








We support development in and around Vättern. www.leadervattern.se

technical experiment planetarium show electric cars

upptech.se Address: Västra Holmgatan 34 A 553 23 Jönköping Tfn 036-10 60 77 Jönköping Science Center

EvaS Kultur & Reklam Mediabyrå Sales, project management, education & events

sandegren.eva@gmail.com +46 706 738 048

THE BIRD MUSEUM Stadsparken Jönköping

Free entry. Opening hours: May, June and August: Saturdays and Sundays 10 –17 July: Every day 10 –17


Learn more about Lake Vättern at vattern.org




Photo Mari Widetoft.

A taste of Habo!

2020 Highlights Subject to changes and cancellations.

There are many ways to experience something and one of them is through our five senses. Well, the sense of taste is probably what most of us associate with something we enjoy doing when on holiday – tasting our way through a destination. If you're interested in tasting your way through Habo this summer, we can recommend several lovely stops, from international flavours to the locally produced. In central Habo, you’ll find Landhs konditori, where the goodies are lined up and combined with afternoon tea, cake buffets, and delicious lunches. If you want something you can take home and enjoy later, you can swing by Ica Supermarket and buy our own beer, the Haboöl, which is a light lager with a distinct taste of hops. An oasis for those seeking tranquillity and a healthy lunch, Lustfyllt is located by Munkaskog along the shore of Lake Vättern. Enjoy your meal in the spacious, bright rooms that were once a barnyard, or outside on the shore of Lake Vättern, where the old slurry pit has been converted into a beautiful terrace. Surrounded by pastures, Kivarps Gårdsmejeri is a dairy farm just outside the town centre. Here you can enjoy a tasty grilled goat cheese sandwich or maybe some cheesecake and visit with the grazing goats. In a scenic setting, Holmenstugan offers anything from sandwiches to full dinners. Habo is surrounded by a varied landscape, great for both crops

JUNI 19 23 Jun – 9 Aug 27–28

Midsummer Celebrations in Drottningstorp Roadside Church 11 am to 6 pm Habo Honda Cup

SEPTEMBER 5 13 26 Sep – 4 Oct

Photo Mari Widetoft.

Crayfish Saturday – for the whole family Allmoge Sunday, Habo Church Art Festival at Spinnet


Trout Day


Christmas Market in Habo TOURIST


Tourist information Biblioteket (The Library) Jönköpingsvägen 2, Habo Tel +46 (0)36-442 81 11 turistinfo@habokommun.se www.upplev.habokommun.se

Photo Mari Widetoft.

HABO and livestock farming. The result is a wide range of locally produced ingredients and delicacies, including Söderlind's organic tomatoes.

Hiking Another way to experience is to hike through a place or an area. Quietly wandering underneath great tree crowns, watching rippling water and spawning fish, or filling your basket with mushrooms in the autumn. Habo has several hiking trails to choose from, either deep in the forest or with views of Lake Vättern. You can pick up your hiking trail map at the tourism agency, located in the library. In central Habo, you’ll find Hökensås Nature Reserve. Trout spawn here in the autumn, while


grayling spawn in the spring. The reserve was established to preserve and promote the environment surrounding the river Hökesån. Did you know that almost all trout found in Lake Vättern were hatched in one of the rivers or streams that flow into the lake? The reserve is surrounded by numerous trails for you to experience the environment on your own. However, we recommend wearing proper shoes and maybe even boots on your hike!

Art To experience can also be to create, or to enjoy what someone else has created. Kerstins Keramik is located on the slopes down towards Lake Vättern, in Munkaskog. You can visit the shop, but you also create your own tableware under the supervision of Kerstin herself. The art festival, Konstfesten, takes place at Spinnet during week 40, when the autumn colours are at their most beautiful. The old spinning factory is transformed into an art gallery, showcasing local works of art and crafts.

Photo Pia Lindberg.

Beaches and swimming

Photo Pia Lindberg.

We often associate experiences with activities, but maybe sometimes we should experience just being. Imagine a warm summer day on a beach; sand between your toes, crystal clear, albeit slightly cool, water hitting the shore. A fishing boat leaves the harbour, a few seagulls scream in the bright blue sky, and you look up at the horizon from your blanket. The western shore of Lake Vättern is dotted with bright, long, and inviting beaches for you to experience, not only on summer days but all year round. A stroll with someone you love, a picnic, a swim, or maybe just a moment's rest.

Photo Smålandsbilder.

Welcome to Habo!

assadors b m a t is r u The to

The country store that surprises Name: Daniel Thuresson

Family: Live-apart relationship, and dog Age: 42

Works: Runs Brandstorps Lanthandel & Café, located on road 195 at the Hökensås intersection Lives: in Brandstorp

Unexpected special interest: Flowers Daniel Thuresson was working in the hotel and restaurant industry in Jönköping when, by chance, he found the Brandstorp country store through an ad online. He was the first one there and decided to buy it on the spot, along with his partner P-O Wändal. – The country store is in a great location, and I always wanted something of my own. This is an authentic place with wonderful people, Daniel says. When you enter the café, you can tell that Daniel has lived out his passion for interior design. If you like nostalgia and 50–60's retro, you’ll love this little café that is connected to the store. Have an ice cream, listen to the jukebox, and experience a bit of time travel. – We always host a rockabilly party with a live band and barbeque in early July.

• Groceries • Delicacies • Nostalgic Café • Home decoration

• Gift items • Coffee/tea in bulk • Trailer rental • Q-star fuel

The unique store offers gift items, home decor, and a deli with local produce, including vegetables, meats, and cheeses from nearby Almnäs. Tourists often come in looking for Falk’s grave or asking for directions to the camp site. If they're looking for somewhere to swim, Daniel recommends beautiful Baskarpsand. Families with young children are recommended a visit to the bison farm and to the lovely summer town of Hjo. – Every day, people are surprised when they come into the store. They all look like they really expected something else. I wouldn't have wanted to run a grocery store in the city. Being in a smaller place, the feeling of unique, and the close contact with my customers – that's what I really like.

Open Mon-Fri 09-18, Sat-Sun 10-14 (to 16 during summer) Kyrkliden 2, Brandstorp · +46 (0)502-50007



Take the train to Lake Vättern Text & photo: Josefine Gustafsson

Through the train window you can see the shores of Lake Vättern as you head for Jönköping Station.

Is it even possible to get to Lake Vättern by train, you may wonder? Indeed it is. You can get all the way to Huskvarna, Jönköping, Bankeryd, Habo, and Motala by train – and access the lake from there. Sweden's fourth most beautiful train route runs along Lake Vättern. At least according to the 2018 poll among Swedish rail travellers and employees. The route we’re referring to goes from Tenhult via Huskvarna and Jönköping to Bankeryd. Here's the motivation: “The train journey offers spectacular views of Lake Vättern and the Huskvarna valley. For a while, the train also runs right along the shore, treating its travellers to a wonderful view of the open water and the long sandy beach in Jönköping. On clear days, you can even see Visingsö Island on the horizon.”

At the museum railway in Vadstena, you can take a tour onboard the old trains and even ride a draisine.

I’ve switched to the Vättertåg train in Nässjö and have travelled for about a half hour when the glorious, open landscape after Tenhult appears. Nearby, cows are grazing. A little farther away, I can see the leafy slopes. The train is now running through the southern part of the UNESCO Biosphere Reserve Östra Vätterbranterna. The Biosphere Reserve is known for its unique nature and for its residents’ commitment to sustainable development. Before long, the town of Huskvarna shows up. There’s Lake Vättern! From that moment on, I can't take my eyes off the big blue lake. I get off at Huskvarna Station, right next to Folkets Park. Huskvarna Folkets Park hosts a wide variety of concerts, car meets, and many other high-quality events. On a rainy day, you can take the bus down to the Huskvarna Fabriksmuseum. Here you get to travel in time, learning a history lesson you will not soon forget. Slottsvillan or the hostel in Huskvarna provides comfortable accommodation. The next day, you can take the bus to Gränna and the ferry to beautiful Visingsö Island. If, instead, you continue your journey from Huskvarna to Jönköping, you can get off at the railway station designed by Carl Nyrén. Lake Vättern is just 100 metres from the platform and you can walk out on the pier or turn straight into the city centre. If you want to enjoy northern Lake Vättern, you should go to Motala. Motala's railway station is of the old charming kind. Far from the “travel centres” of the 90’s. For those who want to experience a Mediterranean atmosphere on a sunny summer day, the Varamon Beach is perfect. The beach is impressively long, and you can walk along the promenade enjoying breath-taking views of Lake Vättern and its islands. If you want to get

out on the lake, you can rent a kayak through Vätterkajak. Take the bus to Medevi and walk down to the lake where you pick up your kayak using a code. Accommodation can be found at Hotell Nostalgi in the harbour of Motala, or at the Varamon Skogsborg Hostel. From Motala, you can also take a 20-minute bus ride to the town of Vadstena. Trains used to go here just like they did to Karlsborg on the other side of Lake Vättern. Today, you can find a railway museum by the old railway station across from Vadstena Castle. From here, you can ride a draisine out onto the Östgöta Plains to Fågelsta. The trip takes about three hours. Occasionally, you can also take a tour onboard the old trains. Every Wednesday, you can enjoy nostalgia evenings with music and coffee in one of the old railway cars. Train nerd or not, Vadstena is worth the visit! ■

The Motala station house still retains its old charm.



Train, bus, and ferry travel info: By train you can go directly to: Motala – via Hallsberg or via Mjölby-Skänninge Huskvarna – via Nässjö or Jönköping Jönköping – via Nässjö or Falköping Bankeryd – via Jönköping or Falköping Habo – via Jönköping or Falköping

By bus you can go to: Askersund via Hallsberg – approx. 40 mins with bus 704


30-70% lower pric e!

Vadstena via Motala – approx. 30 mins with bus 612 and 613, or via Mjölby approx. 40 mins with bus 661 Ödeshög via Mjölby – approx. 40 mins with bus 665, or via Jönköping approx. 1 h with Flixbuss Gränna via Jönköping – approx. 45 mins with bus 122, approx. 1 h with bus 101, or via Tranås approx. 1 h with bus 120 Hjo via Skövde – approx. 35 mins with bus 402 Karlsborg via Skövde – approx. 55 mins with bus 400 By ferry you can go to: Visingsö approx. 25 mins from Gränna via Tranås or Jönköping Train travel: sj.se Länstrafiken (regional bus): Länstrafiken Örebro – lanstrafiken.se Östgötatrafiken – ostgotatrafiken.se Jönköpings länstrafik – jlt.se Västtrafik – vasttrafik.se


Open in summer: Weekdays 10-18, Sat 10-18, Sun 10-16.

Ordinary opening times: Weekdays 10-18, Sat 10-14. Garverigatan 15, Mullsjö

Save Lake Vättern! The Swedish Armed Forces use our beautiful lake as a shooting range and plan to multiply their attacks with fighter aircrafts and artillery into the water. An enormous open pit mine ’Norra Kärr’, threatening our valuable drinking water, is now planned near the shores of Vättern at the town Gränna. Let drinking water and natural habitat go before exploitation! Support the work to save Vättern! Read more on our swedish website and become a supportive member!

Bankgiro: 196-7157 Swish: 123 694 80 87 facebook.com/RaddaVattern http://aktionraddavattern.se



Try your luck fishing in one of the lakes on Hökensås Ridge. Photo Kajsa Thorén.

2020 Highlights

Your adventure awaits. In Tidaholm.

Cars, music, food, sports events, crayfish fishing, and a Christmas market. Normally, many events and activities take place in Tidaholm throughout the year. However, due to the COVID-19 situation, several events have been cancelled or modified.

There is something special about the surroundings around Tidaholm. Here, in nature's own amusement park, you’ll find primeval forests, plateau mountains, meadows, streams, lakes, and ponds. Varied settings for hiking, fishing, adrenaline, and discovering. Tidaholm’s surroundings inspire and provide a source of energy and creativity. The beautiful River Tidan runs through town, combining beautiful nature with quaint urban scenery.

Please see our event calendar for up-to-date information.

In Tidaholm, nothing is far away. In just a short moment, you can go from the market in the Old Square to a cosy café, fishing waters, or why not activate yourself on Mount Hellidsberget or Hökensås Ridge? Tidaholm has many beautiful hiking trails. The Pilgrim Trail between Hjo and Kungslena offers hiking through a varied cultural landscape. It takes you from the idyllic small town of Hjo on the shore of Lake Vättern, over the barren Hökensås Ridge, through forests and open plains, and up to the small medieval village of Kungslena at the foot of Mount Varvsberget. Hökensås is a piece of wilderness of great nature value, deep forests, and soothing tranquillity. Hökensås Nature Reserve has lovely hiking trails and exercise tracks of varying distances. If you want more action, there is a 19-km MTB trail that


7 8

Crayfish Day Kräftival Festival and Kräftivalloppet Race


19 Family Day in the Old Square 25–27 Art Night DECEMBER


Christmas Market

Feel free to check out our event calendar: www.tidaholm.se/evenemang

Tidaholms Tourist information Tel: +46 (0)502-60 62 08 turistbyran@tidaholm.se www.tidaholm.se/turist

Bring the family on a hike in the forest. Photo Tobias Andersson.

will take you through the forests on wonderful soft surface. Every year loads of people interested in fishing come to Hökensås, which is a mecca for fishing enthusiasts and known as Sweden's best recreational fishing area. There are also about fifty lakes and ponds, 30 of which are excellent fishing waters. Trying out family fishing can be an exciting excursion. Great for the beginners as well as the experienced. Guided family fishing on Hökensås Ridge is organised every Tuesday and Thursday during summer. In Baltak, just south of Tidaholm, you can flyfish for rainbow trout in the rippling waters of the Tidan River. You're guaranteed a great fishing experience on this beautiful stretch of river, which is about 3 kilometres long.


Photo Kajsa Thorén.

Experience the tides of history at Kungslena Church. Photo Kajsa Thorén.

Charming town scenery It is around the River Tidan that the town of Tidaholm emerged, and small oases have formed along the flowing water. Stroll around town and enjoy beautiful architecture and a cosy city centre with shops, restaurants, and cafés. The two islands in the middle of town invite you to experience all kinds of things. Turbinhusön is an idyllic island near the shore with a well-preserved cultural environment. Enjoy a coffee in a 19th century setting. The outdoor terrace is beautifully positioned by the rippling waters of the River Tidan. Be sure to also visit the art gallery, the blacksmith homes, and the culture house. Here you’ll find exhibitions, crafts, and a shop. The Vulcanön Island is Tidaholm’s cultural centre, providing an arena for culture and arts. The Tidaholm Museum tells the story of Vulcan, the world's largest match factory around the turn of the last century, as well as the story of the mill and the car manufacturing. In the old premises of the match factory lies the lithographic workshop, which bears witness to the creativity that has thrived here for hundreds of years.

The River Tidan runs through Tidaholm. Photo Kajsa Thorén.

ors ambassad t is r u o t e Th

Be eco-inspired at historic Bossgården Farm Name: Jonas Ringqvist

Family: Wife Sanna and two children Age: 48

Works: Grows and sells organic vegetables, keeps animals, and gives courses in vegetable growing and subsistence farming Lives: in Östra Gerum, Tidaholm

Unexpected special interest: Historic maps Bossgården is one of the best preserved late 19th century farms in the Province of Västergötland. It is located in an old area dotted with medieval churches and small villages. Since 2003, Jonas Ringqvist and his wife Sanna have been running a farm here with sheep, beef cattle, chickens, and, above all, vegetable cultivation. They have as many as 50 different kinds of vegetables that they sell in the immediate area, including the REKO-ringen in Tidaholm. Households can also get home delivery or subscribe to vegetables and eggs, as the family, for six years now, has so-called community-supported agriculture. – I myself moved here for the farm. It is very special, situated in an open, rolling agricultural landscape which I think is incredibly beautiful, Jonas says emphatically. – We get study visits here. Among other things, you can book a harvest walk. You can pick your own corn and pumpkin in late summer and we recently opened a self-service shop on the farm. – If you want to stay the night, there is a great little hostel in Valstad called Valstad Café & Vandrarhem. Those who take our courses through Hjo Folk High School usually stay there, Jonas says. From there, they take bus 302 to get here. It runs between Tidaholm and Falköping, and you get off in Skörstorp. Then follow the signs to Bossgården.

Hökensås Sportfiske AB – Sweden’s leading sport fishing company – since 1957

• Lake fishing • River fishing • Rental lakes • Store • Guiding • Courses • Business events • Accommodation/ camping

www.hokensas.se fiska@hokensas.se +46 502 230 0502-230 00 00




2020 Highlights Subject to changes and cancellations.

JUNE 26–27 27

American Power Tour – American muscle cars visit Hjo Rock against Cancer in Hjo City Park


Photo Jesper Anhede.

Hjo – the little wooden town by Lake Vättern The wooden town of Hjo dates back 600 years. It is said to have been founded at the mouth of Hjoån River during the Middle Ages. The two monasteries, Alvastra and Varnhem, were established in the 12th century on either side of the lake. Traffic on the lake became busy and Hjo was a popular place for mooring, especially for monks travelling between the two monasteries. This enabled the trading of goods and services and, over time, a community emerged – Hjo. In 1413, Hjo became a town and its town charter was recorded in the tax book of Erik von Pomerania. The well-preserved wooden houses are largely found around the town square. Up until the latter part of the 19th century, this was the location of the most affluent district of Hjo – the town hall, workshops, and trade and craft farms. Inside the courtyards were outbuildings, cattle sheds and stables, and carriage houses through the buildings

enabled the transport of items from the street into the courtyard. The farther you came from the square, the lower and simpler the homes, with workers and fishermen living the farthest away. Today, you can still enjoy the beautiful gates around the square when walking along the main streets. Many of the outbuildings and stables still stand in the courtyards, although some have been converted into charming flats. Within the area of national interest for cultural heritage is also the listed city park. A map of the entire area is available at the Tourism Office.

Learn more about the history

Photo Jesper Anhede.

Curious to learn more about the history of the wooden town of Hjo? Then take a guided city walk this summer. Guided walks are offered several days a week and with several different themes. Approximate duration 1 hour 15 minutes. Please contact the Tourism Office for scheduled tours and booking. You can also take Hjo’s sightseeing train, “Lok-Hjo-Motivet”, and get a 20-minute guided tour through the wooden town. The tour provides

3 & 25 4 4 22-26

Steamboat Jazz on the Trafik steamer Hjo Harbour Day with visits from the village boats from Visingsö and guided tours aboard the Trafik Hjo-Draget – trolling competition on Lake Vättern Health Week – a week of health activities, lectures, and exercise

AUGUST 1 1 8–9 9 14

Steamer tour with live music – Tidaholm Band Brass Sextet Outdoor Cinema in Hjo City Park Accordion Festival – one of the largest in the Nordic Region Hökensås Runt – bicycle race with start and finish in Hjo Open Farm Almnäs Bruk – exciting experience for the whole family

AUTUMN 13–26 Sep Cultural heritage weeks with a closing Harvest Festival 26 Sep 18–20 Sep HJO Art Tour 13 Oct Autumn Trout Safari Premiere

CHRISTMAS 21 Nov 4–6 Dec

Hjo Christmas Market Fågelås Christmas Market at Almnäs

You’ll find all the events of the year at

www.visithjo.se TOURIST


VISIT HJO, Hjo Tourist information Bangatan 1B, 544 30 Hjo Tel +46 (0)503-352 55 visithjo@hjo.se www.visithjo.se Follow Visit Hjo on Facebook and Instagram #ilovehjo



a moment's rest when your legs have had enough but your curiosity still wants more.

A piece of design history in Hjo Estrid Ericson is one of the design icons of the 20th century and the founder of Firma Svenskt Tenn. She was born in the community of Öregrund on 16 September 1894. A year later, her family moved to Hjo and into a house on Hamngatan. This is where the family would later run their hotel, Hotell Royal. At the age of 19, Estrid graduates from secondary school. In the spring of 1924, at the young age of 30, she inherits a small amount of money from her father Adolf and this becomes the start-up capital for Firma Svenskt Tenn. She leaves Hjo and moves to Stockholm. Through her company and her ability to connect with the most renowned architects and artists of the time, Estrid contributed to laying the groundwork for modern Swedish design. You can learn more about Estrid and Firma Svenskt Tenn by visiting her exhibition at Kulturkvarteret. Admission is free. You can also visit Estrid’s memorial site along Hamngatan.

Photo Jesper Anhede.

Water, sauna, and swimming In Hjo, Lake Vättern is always close by, making it quick and easy to slip out for a refreshing dip on warm summer days. There are several swim areas, both in and around town. Gulkroksbadet in central Hjo offers free admission and you can always go for a swim on the south side along the beach promenade. If you want to go out on the lake, you can take a boat tour aboard the steamer Trafik or rent a SUP board and go out on your own. Or why not enjoy a moment of peace and quiet in the wood burning floating sauna?

Photo Jesper Anhede.

Photo Jesper Anhede.

bassadors m a t is r u o The t

The old spa resort of Hjo Name: Sara Johansson

Family: Husband, two children, and two dogs Age: 50

Works: Chief Operating Officer at an HVAC company, runs the soap factory Hjo Tvålfabrik & Butik AB Lives: in Hjo

Unexpected special interest: Loves taking trips out in nature with the motorhome In the late 19th century, Hjo was a hydropathic spa resort. The city park, with its old villas, served as the centre of the resort. Today, some of the villas are owned by the hotel and one of the villas is now Villa Eira Hostel.

Bisonfarmen i Gate 18 km south of the city of Hjo

Experience the farm & all the animals. Bison safari - Restaurant Farm shop -RV camping

Röda Stallet Bed & Breakfast Nice accommodation just south of Hjo 300 m from the lake Vättern. 11 rooms with shower / wc and direct exit to the patio. Röda Stallet B & B, Spakås, SE-544 94 Hjo Phone: +46 503 121 12 Mobile: +46 702 05 86 60 Email: rodastallet@gmail.com



Drawing inspiration from the old spa resort, Sara makes handmade organic soaps that she sells in her shop in Hjo. – I started the soap factory with a colleague 12 years ago. Mainly because I had long been making soap for my own use and my friend asked me if I would consider trying to sell it, Sara says. Since November, Sara is the sole owner of the shop, which also sells towels and other spa resort related products of high quality. The soaps are named after the beautiful wooden villas as well as other places with links to Hjo hydropathic spa resort. – There used to be a cold bath house where you could go and get bathed and scrubbed in Lake Vättern. The best thing about Hjo is that it's right by Lake Vättern, with its incredible crystal-clear waters. I love taking a walk along the lake, says Sara, who lives only 50 metres from the shore. – Hjo is a cute wooden town. It’s picturesque and the quaint town centre offers some unique shops. If you want to escape the harbour life, there is the Hjoån River valley in the city park with lovely trails, Sara says.




Trout safari at Hjoån River

Text och photo: Mårten Fredriksson

Great experiences around Lake Vättern are not only offered in the summertime. With autumn comes the unique opportunity to take part in an awesome nature experience. Just do what hundreds of other visitors do every autumn: put on some warm clothes and rubber boots, and head to Hjo for trout safari. As darkness falls from October to November, the great Lake Vättern trout migrate up the Hjoån River. This is the time to visit the Grebban Mill to partake in the spectacle. A string of outdoor candles guides the visitors into the mill, which accommodates about 25 people. The light from the tea candles that greets you inside provides a magical atmosphere as you sit

Grebban Mill.

down for a lecture and slideshow on the development and progress of the work with the river and the trout. The guides then take you a few hundred metres downstream and, during your walk back, you can watch the fish in full activity on the spawning beds. It is a powerful experience to see how fish that weigh up to 4–5 kilos stand in the water just a few feet in front of you, hesitating as they are caught in the spotlight of your flashlight. The most common reaction among visitors is surprise at how many trout there are to watch and how big they are. Fish that are almost impossible to observe during daytime are rather easy to spot during the dark hours of the day, and they often arouse great admiration and fascination. These are animals rarely seen, and most people are not even aware that they exist in such a small body of water as Hjoån River. After an hour's hike and observation, the group reassembles in the Grebban Mill for coffee

and a snack and for discussing any questions with the guides. It's important to point out that it is only during trout safaris that the use of flashlights is allowed for watching the fish, and only in the presence of the guides. The light is a stress factor for the fish, and it is of the utmost importance that they are not disturbed too much. The aim here is to inform the public about the existence and needs of the trout, not to stress the fish. The reserve regulations therefore state that Hjo Municipality only permits the trout guides to use flashlights during organised guided tours. The use of flashlights by the river is otherwise prohibited. Hjoån River is a unique example of a successful nature project where non-profit forces collaborate with the municipality. Dedicated people, having a dream of restoring a body of water that was in rather poor condition with a trout population that was about to disappear, were able get the municipality on board. With joint forces and with great financial contributions from, for example, the Swedish Society for Nature Conservation, they completed an environmental project that now serves as a model for many other trout projects in Sweden. All bookings are made through the municipal tourism office and all guided tours are provided by the local fishery conservation association. An exemplary way of working and making nature accessible to all citizens. All money raised by the association through trout safari visitor fees is fully reinvested in the continued efforts to develop the possibilities for trout survival. Hjoån River is therefore a wonderful destination when other summer activities have ended and you're seeking exciting experiences around Lake Vättern. ■



hand crafted products for body & soul! cold-stirred soaps, lipbalms, bathsalts, massagebars, beardbalms, soy wax candles... Natural & Organic

18 km south of Hjo, right next to Lake Vätterns shore is Hjällö Slott. A special oasis that offers both B & B and room for festivities. +46 503 210 90 · +46 706 426 540

hjalloslott.se .

Hamngatan 4, Hjo www.tvalfabriken.se



HJO – VISINGSÖ Dep. HJO 10.00 – arr. HJO 18.15 Sundays: 14.6, 28.6, 26.7, 2.8, 9.8 and 16.8 with JOUSTING at Visingsö, arriving at 19.00. Saturday 18.7 Visingsö Veteran’s Day.


Sat 4.7: Haarbour’s Day, 2 round trips. Dep. HJO 11.00. We will meet “Byabåtarna” from Visingsö, return 12.00. Dep 14.00, arr. 15.00. Fri 3.7: Dep. HJO 15.00, arrival HJO 16.00. “STEAM BOAT JAZZ” at night with DIXIE TALKS Dep. HJO 19.00, arrival 22.00 Sun 12.7: Dep. HJO 12.00 & 14:00, arr. 13.00 & 15.00 Sat 25.7: Music on board. Dep. HJO 15.00, arrival HJO 16.00. “STEAM BOAT JAZZ” at night with PEORIA JAZZBAND Dep. HJO 19.00, arrival 22.00

Sat 1.8: Dep. HJO 14.00, arrival 15.00, music by MÄSSINGSSEXTETTEN Dep. HJO 18.00, arr. 21.00

Sat 11.7: HJO – HÄSTHOLMEN HJO CRAFT’S FAIR Dep. HJO 9.00 – arr. HÄSTHOLMEN 10.30 Dep. HÄSTHOLMEN 11.15 – arr. HJO 12.45 Dep. HJO 17.00 – arr. HÄSTHOLMEN 18.30 Dep. HÄSTHOLMEN 18.45 – arr. HJO 20.15 ROUND TRIP dep. HJO 13.30, arr. HJO 14.30

Fri 17.7: HJO – VADSTENA Dep. HJO 9.30 – arr. VADSTENA 12.25 Dep. VADSTENA 16.00 – arr. HJO 18.55

CAFÉ & SOUVENIRS ON BOARD Only cash payment on board

www.sstrafik.se · Pre-bookings MUST be done at HJO Tourist Information. Phone +46 503-352 55 and visithjo@hjo.se

Facts about trout safari • Trout safaris are offered from mid-October to midNovember. More information can be found on Hjo's municipal website: www.hjo.se • For bookings, please call Hjo Tourism Office at +46 (0)503-352 55. Payments are made at the time of booking.

BIG STORE 3500m2

With almost everything for your home, from garbage bags to crystal glass. V e r y l o w p r i ce s

www.hemohobby.se Åsgatan 1, HJO

Family business founded in 1975



Foto Stefan Svensson.

2020 Highlights 2020 is a different year for all of us, not least in terms of all the events, several of which have been postponed. Organisers are doing their best to come up with alternate solutions. For up-to-date information on all events, please visit:



Discover Karlsborg, the golden gem by Lake Vättern! People associate Karlsborg with all sorts of different things. Some think of the proximity to water, others of the great food, and yet others of the magical forests of Tiveden. Most, however, probably think of the Karlsborg Fortress and the adventure that awaits inside the walls of the magnificent structure. Or they think of the town of Forsvik, with its mill and exciting history. Regardless of what you associate Karlsborg with, we want to invite you to discover more. And trust us, there is more! For those seeking pleasure above all, there are long sandy beaches, great culinary experiences, and relaxing boat tours. Adventurers will find kayaking, horseback riding, a high-altitude course, and hiking – among other things. And for water enthusiasts, Karlsborg is a paradise. In fact, it's difficult not to be close to the water here. Among Lake Vättern’s great offerings are the wonderful archipelago of Ombo Islands, Göta Canal with its fishing and boating, and the quiet little lakes in Tiveden that provide tranquillity amidst the wilderness.


Karlsborgs Turism AB Storgatan 65 (at Göta kanal) Tel +46 (0)505-173 50 info@karlsborgsturism.se www.karlsborgsturism.se

Photo Tuana.

Karlsborg Fortress offers exciting adventures for the whole family. Experience action-packed guided tours or learn more about the captivating history on the historic adventure tour. What is there to wait for? Come experience the summer in Karlsborg.

Karlsborg Fortress The construction of this magnificent structure was planned to take 10 years. In reality, it took 90, and when it was finally completed, it was already outdated. Karlsborg Fortress was intended to protect the royal family, the Riksdag, and the central bank gold reserve in the event of war. Today, it is a popular tourist destination that never ceases to fascinate its audience. However, Karlsborg Fortress is not only a tourist destination, it is also the workplace for, among others, the Swedish Armed Forces. In addition, the building houses several residential flats. Lining the square inside the fortress are shops, a café, and a restaurant. The grand Garrison Church, which occupies the second floor of the 678-metre “final defence” was to serve as the chamber for the parliament. Below the Garrison Church is the 2,200 m2 fortress museum. Here you can learn about the



history of the fortress and the surrounding area, as well as the military units once stationed here. We highly recommend taking a guided tour during your visit to the fortress. The different tours are packed with surprises and exciting elements. Follow the expert guides down the dark underground corridors that you'd never find on your own, where the gunpowder smoke is dense, where the cannons rumble, the ground trembles, and the rats hiss.

Forsvik Forsvik is truly an idyllic place. The combination of the glittering waters of Göta Canal and Lake Bottensjön, the old mill buildings, and the smell of coffee from the cafés in town provides a tourist destination with authentic charm. Visit the Forsvik Mill and learn about the industrial history or enjoy an ice cream while watching the boats pass through Göta Canal’s highest and oldest lock.


Tiveden In Tiveden, adventure awaits those seeking magically beautiful scenery, characterised by huge boulders, deep moss-covered valleys, and steep mountain ridges. Go hiking, cycling, or horseback riding between the many lakes and attractions. A visit to Tiveden can be just as adventurous as you want it to be.

Lake Vättern & Life on the lake In Karlsborg, you are never far from water. With lakes as far as the eye can see and 350 km of shoreline, there is a swim area for everyone. What do you prefer? Rocky cliffs, white sandy beaches, or shallow waters? Tiveden. Photo Pavel.


Karlsborg has something for everyone!

Djäknesundet. Photo Elvira Gustavsson.


adors assyou b m a t Now have only two pages is r u The to

of Around Vättern 2019 left. You will find yet more interesting reading and suggestions for destinations at www.runtvattern.se

Life in a tree stump Name: Christer Hoff

Family: Domestic partner, four grown children, and grandchildren Follow us on Facebook and Instagram Age: 58 Works: The family has run Karlsborg's camping since 2004. Occupation has since tripled. Lives: in Karlsborg

facebook/vattern.se #runtvattern

Unexpected special interest: Driving a motorbike, especially the beautiful 100 km stretch Askersund-Tiveden-Sannerud-Tived

The idea came from a guy who had been in the United States, where he had seen trees that were so big that people could live in them. Christer Hoff, owner of Karlsborg Camp Site, figured he could build a guest cabin similar to such a “tree stump house”. They now have two 35–40 m2 tree stump houses with shower, toilet, and kitchenette. A few can be found at Norrqvarn as well.

Stay in a goblins tree stump - An experience – The kids love staying in the stumps! It’s like moving into a fairy-tale world. We've put together some tree stump facts that you can read on the back offor our brochures, says enthusiastically. bothChrister young and old! – This is a magical place, with water everywhere! Karlsborg Municipality has 300and km offall beaches. Swim, sunbathe asleep to Several lovely hiking trails start from Granvik on the outskirts of Tiveden. It's almost a spiritual the sound of waves. Our goblins experience. Visit Tiveden and head up to Örsjönäs, rent a canoe, and barbecue. Or try the hightree stumps has the best location altitude course. Being in Tiveden is truly a special experience.

directly on the beach and are

The camp site he runs is a traditional one. You camp and spend time with your family. Guests can equipped with shower, toilet, rent kayaks and paddle on Lake Bottensjön, which is right by the camp site. YouTV. can kayak all the kitchenette and way to Forsvik. – Forsvik is a wonderful little village! Yes, there is certainly plenty to experience around Karlsborg apart from Karlsborg Fortress, which, of course, is a must, Christer says.

Phone +46 505 120 22 www.karlsborgscamping.se

Karlsborgs Fästningsmuseum The magnificent fortress museum tells the amazing story of fortress construction, the cavalry history, all units that used the fortress as an educational destination and civilian rural history. Each year, with new exhibitions on military and homeland history.

Open all year round. Welcome! More information:

+46 505 45 18 26, www.fastningsmuseet.se




Stay in a goblins tree stump - An experience for both young and old!


Swim, sunbathe and fall asleep to the sound of waves. Our goblins tree stumps has the best location directly on the beach and are equipped with shower, toilet, kitchenette and TV.




Now you have only two pages of Around Vättern 2020 left.

Forsviks Bruk is in a beautiful setting right next to the water, where you can experience 600 years of industrial history from many different viewpoints.



Phone +46 505 120 22 www.karlsborgscamping.se


For opening hours, activities and information:


You will find yet more interesting reading and suggestions for destinations at www.runtvattern.se

Follow us on Facebook and Instagram facebook/vattern.se #runtvattern

Forsviks bruk is a part of Region Västra Götaland. www.vgr.se/kulturutveckling








LA BELLE EPOQUE CAFE & STORE ANNO 1885 0505-173 50 info@karlsborg.se www.karlsborgsturism.se




Camping pitches round Vättern New camping pitches for motor caravans are being introduced in line with the very strong increase in interest in motor caravans and motorhomes. We don't claim that we can give a complete list of camping pitches round Vättern, but below we have a summary of what we have been able to find in catalogues and on various websites. We decided to limit ourselves to camping pitches which offer firstly, electricity and secondly also water, disposal facilities, showers and WC. Abbreviations used in the list SP: Ställplats [camping pitch] C: Camping with room for motorhomes RP: Halting place

KARLSBORG / TIVEDEN / VÄSTRA GÖTA KANAL Breviks Camping & Ställplats, Karlsborg Camp Skagern, Finnerödja Camping Tiveden, Tived Carlsborgs Segelsällskap, Karlsborg Forsviks sluss, Göta kanal, Forsvik Hajstorps Slusscafé & Vandrarhem, Töreboda Jonsboda Café & Camping, Töreboda Karlsborgs Camping, Karlsborg Lyrestad Gästhamn Göta kanal, Lyrestad Norrqvarn Hotell och Konferens, Lyrestad Revelbadets Camping, Laxå Stenkällegårdens Camping Tiveden, Karlsborg Strömsnäs Naturcamping, Forsvik

HJO Bisonfarmen i Gate Stellplatz, Hjo Hjo Camping, Hjo Hökensås Golfklubb, Hjo Stampens kvarn Stellplatz, Hjo

HABO / MULLSJÖ / TIDAHOLM Habo Camping & Stugby, Habo Ryfors Golfklubb, Mullsjö Camp Fjället ,Tidaholm Hökensås Camping & Stugby, Tidaholm Kyrkekvarn Sörgården, Sandhem Ljungbacken, Tidaholm Mullsjö Camping, Mullsjö Tidaholms Camping, Tidaholm Kohagens badplats, Sandhem

ASKERSUND Askersunds Citycamp & Gästhamn, Askersund Askersunds Ställplats Marinan, Askersund Aspa Båtklubb, Ställplats & Gästhamn, Olshammar Lönns Kurva, Zinkgruvan Askersunds Golfklubb, Åmmeberg Harge Bad & Camping, Hammar Husabergsuddes Camping, Askersunds Kommun Mariedamms Ställplats, Mariedamm Stora Hammarsundet, Trafikverkets Rastplats Tivedsporten Eco Camp, Askersund



MOTALA Borenshults slussområde, Motala SP DHR Motala, Vättersol Stugor och Camping, Motala C Furulid, Motala C Kaffeteriet vid Göta kanal, Borensberg SP Mallbodens Cafe och vandrarhem/ Motala Verkstad, Motala SP Småängens Camping, Tjällmo C STF Vandrarhem Glasbruket, Borensberg SP Strandbadets Camping, Borensberg C Södra Hamnen, Motala SP Z-Parkens Camping, Motala C

MJÖLBY / SKÄNNINGE Gripenbergs Gårdsbutik, Skänninge SP Väderkvarnsbacken, Skänninge SP Skogssjöbadens Camping, Mjölby C Östad golf, Väderstad SP Rastplats Albacken, Mjölby SP


VADSTENA Vadstena Camping, Vadstena C Vadstena Gästhamn och Ställplats, Vadstena SP Vadstena Golfklubb SP

ÖDESHÖG Hästholmens hamn SP Röks lanthandel, Rök Hejla SP Naturum, Tåkern SP Östgötaporten, Trafikverkets rastplats RP, SP

C SP C C SP SP C C SP JÖNKÖPING / HUSKVARNA Axamostrand Camping, Jönköping C Hyltena Nattcamp/Quickstop, Jönköping SP Lovsjöbadens Camping, Jönköping C Skinnarebo Hobby Caravan Golf, Jönköping SP Villa Björkhagen, Jönköping C RC Hotel, Jönköping SP

The number of pitches with service in the form of electricity, shower, WC, water and taps only increases and increases. The Stampens Kvarn Stellplatz is located along road 195 about 1.5 km outside Hjo. The Stampens Kvarn is a mill from the 17th century that has served as a restaurant and banquet hall for over ten years now.

GRÄNNA / VISINGSÖ Bauergården Gästgiveri & Konferens SP Getingaryds Familjecamping Gränna C Grenna Hamn Gränna SP Grännastrandens Familjecamping Gränna C Gyllene Uttern, Trafikverkets Rastplats RP, SP Svensgården, Visingsö SP Visingsö Ställplats SP Camping Vättersmålen, Gränna C Visingsö natur ställplats SP Näs ställplats, Visingsö SP

In Forsvik motorhomes are drawn to the pitch beneath the Göta Canal's oldest lock.



With the camp site as a base, you have experiences for a whole week within reach of one of the largest tourist regions.


Phone +46 143 127 30 info@vadstenacamping.se www.vadstenacamping.se

Train trips

Cosy pub


Mini golf

Choo-choo train ”Rödingen”. Children’s stages at the camp. Trips to Vadstena for city walks and visits to the Toy Museum. Shopping and evening tours.

Pub with à la carte menu. Full rights. Large screen TV. Open: 18:00 to 23:00. Please try our self-caught crayfish.

Service shop with long opening hours where we bake bread every morning.

Challenge your friends in miniature golf. Our beautiful 18-hole course is located right next to the beach and restaurant.

1. Reception and shop 2. Restaurant, pub, café and take-away food 3. Toilets, showers, dishwashing area, kitchen, lounge, TV, childrens playroom, relaxing room, family room, sauna and jacuzzi

4. Toilets, showers, baby changing area, dishwashing area, family room, laundrette, kitchen and dining room

7. Toilets, baby changing area, emptying point for motorcaravans, kitchen, dining room, showers and family room

5. Toilets for visitors to the swimming baths

8. Cottages

6. Storage

9. Chalets 10. Mini golf 11. Open-air dance floor 12. Dog bathing area 13. Toilets, showers, water and emptying point for campers ren hild for c d e t p ada ing Bath

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Around Vättern 2020  

Around Vättern 2020  

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