I COOK IN COLOR by Asha Gomez and Martha Hall Foose - sample spreads

CONTENTS Introduction: A World of Bright Flavors from My Kitchen . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 CHA P T E R ONE :

Colorful Drinks to Sip and Savor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 CHA P T E R T WO:

Bright Salads . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 CHA P T E R T HR E E :

Luscious Soups and Comforting Stews . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 CHA P T E R F OU R :

Vivid Vegetables and Rice Dishes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67 CHA P T E R F I V E :

Splendid Seafood . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87 CHA P T E R SI X:

Poultry Dishes from Near and Far . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113 CHA P T E R SE V E N:

Well-Seasoned Pork, Goat, and Lamb Dishes . . . . . . . . 133 CHA P T E R E I GHT:

Beef and Venison Dishes from Around the World . . . . . 153 CHA P T E R NI NE :

Gorgeous Desserts and Sweets . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167 Acknowledgments . .

Metric Conversions . .

Recipes by Category .

Index . . . . . . . . . .

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INTRODUCTION

A World of Bright Flavors from My Kitchen There’s a big, colorful world out there, and I intend to share as much of it as I can with my lanky, long-haired teenage son, Ethan. I call this mission, “Walking the World with Ethan,” hashtagging it and all. We might not make it to all our dream destinations, but that doesn’t mean we won’t sample their cuisine. Sometimes we just take a flavorful voyage from the comfort of our home kitchen.

Ethan and I live in the wildly cosmopolitan, categorically Southern city of Atlanta. It has been my home for 20 years. I came to these United States from India when I was a young teenager, and I’ve spent more of my life as an American than not. Yet some folks, at their first glance of me in an apron, make a hasty judgment that my kitchen must smell of curry all the time. Well, a couple of nights a week, they may be right, but on the whole, my kitchen smells of whatever inspires me. Those inspirations could be tastes that linger in my mind when I’m fresh from a trip abroad.

They might come from a gleaming flash of color that caught my eye at one of this city’s worldly farmers’ markets. I find inspiration from the varied people we meet, and the colors they surround themselves in, like the bright-colored saris of the fisherwomen in Kerala; the embroidered skirts and scarves of the Peruvian women at the market, selling an astounding variety of potatoes, ranging from purple to orange; and the elderly women selling artichokes and wearing floral-embossed clogs at the outdoor market in Rome. Or Ethan might get curious about a country or region from his schoolwork, and soon we are both gung-ho to see what they favor on the plate. I guess what I’m saying is this: I cook a lot like the folks I surround myself with—an eclectic mix.

There is no mistaking the power of color to draw us in. When my son was young, like most kids, he started with the basic kindergarten pack of fat crayons, featuring Roy G. Biv’s rainbow of colors. But as Ethan has grown and we talk about the world and explore the myriad of colors that can be mixed and mingled, we now go for the deluxe Crayola box with a sharpener on the back, giving us a much broader palette from which to draw.

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My childhood in Kerala was awash in brilliant colors, like the ombre shades of blue out across the Arabian Sea, the vermillion and mahogany shades of ground chilies, and verdant tea estates in the mountains rolling in green and umber. All are parts of my technicolored nostalgia. In my mind’s eye my mother’s kitchen always has a slight turmeric-gold cast. The sight of sugar baby watermelons, with their vibrant pink hearts exposed, immediately takes me to a long, sultry Georgia summer. The color of fresh white cream propels me into visions of fluffy desserts. What the eyes make welcome to the heart inspires me to swing my pantry doors wide open and engage my soul in my cooking.

Sights inspire me, but aren’t my only guiding forces. If I were blindfolded, my sense of smell would lead me like a thieving cartoon character drawn to a pie cooling on a windowsill. My sense of taste might make me shudder, make my shoulders rise, and make my lips pucker when I bite down on bitter melon. We are all guided by a world of influences that sway our tastes from one day to the next. Interests are sometimes fleeting or long-held.

And for our health’s sake, we eat a wide variety of brightly colored foods, because it’s one of the best and easiest ways to make sure we get the nutrition we need. So, my advice is this: Trust your eyes. If a food has an attractive color, chances are it’s beneficial for you. Many of the colorful herbs and spices used throughout this book have health-giving properties, too. Reading the spice primer from my first book, My Two Souths: Blending the Flavors of India into a Southern Kitchen, might come in handy when purchasing many of the ingredients used in these pages. Some elements called for in these recipes might not be familiar to some folks. Well, we live in a wondrous time where almost any ingredient imaginable can be found online and arrive on your doorstep in a day or two. I’ve offered substitutions for many ingredients, but encourage you to search out components that will lend authentic flavor to these dishes.

All in all, I Cook in Color is about “cognizant cooking,” being aware of, and welcoming the vivid, color-filled world into your kitchen. Conversing around countertops, making friends at the market, dreaming around dessert, and exploring all the bounty that surrounds us—these are the elements that can make your world not just colorful but wildly flavorful as well.

—Asha Gomez 2

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CHAPTER ONE:

colorful drinks

to sip and savor Virgin Fresh Tomato Watermelon Mary . . . 6

Ruby Red Beet Juice: The “Mommy Boost” . . . 16

Morning Sunshine . . . 7

Dreamy Spiced Hot Chocolate . . . 18

All-Day Herb Water . . . 8 Rosemary Lemonade . . . 10 Emerald Potion . . . 11 Golden Haldi Dood: Turmeric Milk with Honey . . . 13 Mango Yogurt Madness . . . 14 Fig and Cashew Milk Shake . . . 15

Assam Tea Time . . . 19 Pretty in Pink Rose Milk . . . 21 Cold Georgia Peach Sweetie . . . 22 Clove Negroni Cocktail . . . 23

Pretty in Pink Rose Milk As a kid growing up in India, there was no chocolate milk or strawberry milk, but there was always rose milk. And, boy, did I love it. One way my mother could get me to drink milk was by adding sweet rooh afza. The bright red syrup, flavored with rose essence and other botanicals, turns milk a lovely, princessy, shade of pink, which I found especially appealing when I was little. My mother also added sabja, which are sweet basil seeds, to boost the nutritional aspects of this blushing beverage. The tiny black seeds add a good bit of calcium, magnesium, and iron.

Rooh afza means “refresher of the soul” and this drink is truly a delight.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

NOTE

You can find rooh afza and basil seeds at most Indian or South Asian grocery stores, or you can buy both online.

4 cups chilled whole milk 6 tablespoons rooh afza syrup 4 teaspoons basil seeds, soaked in ¼ cup water for a few minutes until plump

Pour the milk into a glass pitcher and mix in the rooh afza syrup. Add the basil seeds and serve over ice or chill in the refrigerator until you’re ready to serve it.

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colorful drinks

to sip and sa v or

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Sourdough Panzanella Salad Adoro il Cibo Italiano! I love Italian food! I find myself traveling to Italy often and seeking out Italian restaurants when I travel here in the United States. It is also one of the cuisines I cook most often in my home.

When traveling in Tuscany, I fell in love with the saltless, crisp crusty bread found throughout the region. I’m not much of a bread baker, but you’ll often find me at local Atlanta bakeries picking up fresh sourdough bread. It’s just Ethan and me at home most school nights, and there’s always leftover bread. So creating this salad ensures that none of it goes to waste. Day-old bread makes this salad that much more delicious.

MAKES 6 SERVINGS

½ cup olive oil, plus 2 tablespoons 3 cups of crusty sourdough bread, cut into 1-inch pieces 4 garlic cloves, finely chopped 4 tablespoons champagne vinegar 2 teaspoons honey 2 teaspoons Dijon mustard 2 ounces anchovies in oil, finely chopped 1 teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper ½ teaspoon kosher salt

1 medium red onion, thinly sliced 2 tablespoons brine-packed capers

¼ cup torn fresh basil leaves

Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat and add 2 tablespoons of olive oil to the pan. Add the bread to the pan and get the bread slightly toasty, cooking and stirring occasionally about 5 minutes. Remove from the pan and set aside. In a small bowl, add ½ cup of olive oil, garlic, champagne vinegar, honey, mustard, anchovies, black pepper, and salt, and whisk together to make the dressing.

In a large bowl, add the bread, tomatoes, peppers, onions, and capers, and toss with the dressing. Let the salad sit in the dressing at room temperature for 30 minutes before serving. Garnish with basil leaves and serve at room temperature.

1 pound ripe tomatoes, cut into 1-inch pieces 3 red bell peppers, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces

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bright salads

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Gooseberry and Watermelon Gazpacho This salad evolved from having a large, juicy, sweet watermelon in my kitchen one hot summer afternoon. I made myself watermelon ginger juice and, after quenching my thirst with a tall glass of it, I had just a little left over. Next thing you know, that juice found its way into a soup with gooseberries and watercress I had picked up at the farmers’ market that morning.

Some dishes that have become favorites of mine come from just letting my creative juices flow.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

8 cups chilled seedless watermelon, cut into ½-inch cubes 2 teaspoons grated ginger 1 cup yellow gooseberries, cut in half 2 teaspoons coarsely ground black pepper 2 tablespoons honey Place 1½ cups of watermelon in each serving bowl. Blend 2 cups of watermelon, along with the ginger, in a blender. Divide the juice equally and pour it into the bowls. Evenly distribute the gooseberries into the bowls.

Sprinkle each bowl with the black pepper. Drizzle the honey over the mixture. Serve cold.

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NOTE

If you are having trouble finding gooseberries, seeded scuppernong or muscadine grapes are a good substitute for gooseberries. Rhubarb would work well, too.

CHAPTER FOUR:

vivid vegetables and rice dishes “Color Full” Roasted Vegetables . . . 68

Gorgonzola Three-Potato Gratin . . . 77

Three-Mushroom and Bok Choy Stir-Fry . . . 70

Seed-Crusted Whole Roasted Cauliflower . . . 79

Lime Leaf and Green Pea Risotto with Fennel . . . 72

Roasted Butternut Squash with Tomato-Ginger Gravy . . . 80

Grilled Meyer Lemon Chili Corn . . . 73

Persian Fesenjan Chickpeas with Spinach . . . 82

Dill and Red-Onion Rice . . . 74

Japanese Eggplant with Peanut Sauce . . . 85

Greek Briam . . . 76

Japanese Eggplant with Peanut Sauce I’m that person! The eggplant lover. I also love a satay sauce.

This sauce is a perfect balance of sweet, salt, heat, tartness, and nuttiness. This eggplant dish is a wonderful choice if you are trending flexitarian. Try the sauce with skewers of grilled vegetables, shrimp, or chicken. Heck, put it on just about anything that needs a little livening up.

½ cup unsalted peanuts (no skin)

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

1 teaspoon turmeric powder

1 tablespoon chopped lemongrass 1 tablespoon finely chopped galangal 2 garlic cloves 1 small shallot, peeled 1 tablespoon lime juice Zest of 1 lime 1 tablespoon light brown sugar 1 tablespoon fish sauce

1 teaspoon kosher salt 1⁄ 3

cup water

8 small Japanese eggplants, halved lengthwise 5 tablespoons vegetable oil, divided 1 teaspoon chili flakes

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Reserve a few peanuts, to make about a tablespoon of crushed peanuts for the garnish. Place the remaining peanuts, along with the lemongrass, galangal, garlic, shallots, lime juice and zest, brown sugar, fish sauce, turmeric, salt, and water in a food processor, and pulse to make a coarse paste. Transfer the sauce to a small pot and warm over low heat for 10 minutes.

Score the eggplants by cutting shallow crosshatching across the flesh. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a sheet pan with parchment paper. Place the eggplants on the pan. Drizzle 3 tablespoons of the oil and drizzle a few sprigs evenly over the eggplant. Place the pan in the oven and roast for 20 minutes.

Remove from the oven and set aside.

Heat a small skillet over medium heat with the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil.

Add the chili flakes to the oil and let them bloom for 30 seconds.

Pour the tempered chili oil over the eggplants and serve warm, along with the peanut sauce.

v i v id v egetables and rice dishes

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Passion Fruit, Lime, and Grapefruit Grouper Ceviche On a trip to Lima, Peru, I ate ceviche every day. I was there with CARE (Cooperative for Assistance and Relief Everywhere) meeting with local farmers who had participated in our programs there. My job was to listen to their stories firsthand so I could come back and lobby the United States Congress on CARE’s behalf and stress the importance of funding those programs.

I always assumed that ceviche meant that the fish was marinated in lime or lemon juice. I discovered that any sour, acidic agent makes an excellent ceviche. I have tried varieties made with bitter oranges, passion fruit, tiger’s milk, and tamarind—all eye-opening and delicious.

Search for finger hot chilies to add to this tropical ceviche. Serrano chilies make a suitable substitution.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

1⁄ 3

cup fresh lime juice

¼ cup fresh, ripe, passion fruit pulp 2 finger hot chilies, seeded and finely chopped 1 tablespoon cane syrup

10 cherry tomatoes, quartered

¼ cup finely diced sweet mango 2 small grapefruits, segmented

¼ cup fresh cilantro leaves ½ teaspoon coarsely ground black pepper In a medium bowl, make a marinade by mixing together the lime juice, passion fruit pulp, chilies, cane syrup, salt, and red pepper flakes. Toss the fish with the marinade and let it sit for at least 10 minutes, or up to 2 hours.

Add the tomatoes, mango, grapefruit, and cilantro leaves. Sprinkle with black pepper. Transfer to a platter and serve.

1 teaspoon pink Himalayan salt 1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes 1 pound grouper, skin and bones removed, cut into 1-inch pieces

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splendid seafood

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CHAPTER SIX:

poultry dishes from near and far Crucian Curry Chicken . . . 114

Turkey Moussaka . . . 126

Chicken and Mushrooms in Coconut Gravy . . . 117

Duck Confit with Pan-Seared Georgia Peaches, Caramelized Onion–Tomato Jam, and Cauliflower Puree . . . 128

Turmeric Lemon Chicken . . . 118 Chicken and Andouille Sausage Perloo . . . 119 Singapore Noodles . . . 120 Pomegranate and Date Molasses Chicken in a Banana Leaf Packet . . . 123

Quail Ragù with Piccante Frantumato . . . 130

CHAPTER SEVEN:

well-seasoned pork, goat, and lamb dishes Lamb-Stuffed Eggplants . . . 134 Pigs and Apples . . . 136 Jamaican Jerk Pork Butt . . . 137 Pork Belly Sorpotel . . . 139 Garlic Black Pepper Pork . . . 141 Dry-Fry Pork Mince with Green Beans . . . 142 Wild Boar and Poke Salat Lasagna . . . 144

Goat Meatballs in Cashew and Roasted Red Pepper Curry . . . 146 Kachi Goat Pilaf . . . 149 Leg of Lamb with Za’atar and Dried Apricots . . . 151

CHAPTER EIGHT:

beef and venison dishes from around the world Braised Sambal Oelek Short Ribs . . . 154 Venison, Sage, and Turnip Shepherd’s Pie . . . 156 Spice-Rubbed Rib-Eye Steaks . . . 159 Braised Corned Beef Brisket with Grainy Mustard and Figs . . . 161

Caramelized Onion Beef Liver Alongside Besties Braised Red Cabbage . . . 162 Stewed Venison with Red Wine–Clove Reduction . . . 165

CHAPTER NINE:

gorgeous desserts and sweets Strawberry Chocolate Flake Pavlova . . . 168 Triple Coconut Delight . . . 171 Passion Fruit Key Lime Pie with Cardamom-Huckleberry Compote . . . 172 Kirschwasser and Mace Double-Crust Cherry Pie . . . 175 Tres Leches Cinnamon Jasmine Rice Pudding . . . 177 Golden Carrot Halwa . . . 178

Grandma Nisi’s Rose Pound Cake with Saffron-Poached Quince . . . 180 You-Pick Blueberry Cake . . . 183 Mango Cardamom Cake . . . 184 Sticky Pandan and Date-Toffee Pudding Cake . . . 187

Mango Cardamom Cake From late April until early June, the most coveted of mangoes, the Alphonso, take center stage in markets across India. The luxuriously buttery, canary-yellow fruits are my favorite variety. I am entirely gaga over them.

This stunningly simple-to-make cake gets a lustrous, Alphonso mango glaze with the shortcut of using canned mango puree, making it a delight all year round. Festooned with fresh pomegranate seeds, the cake is a glory to behold.

gorgeous desserts and sweets

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R E C I P E S B Y C AT E G O R Y SLOW-COOKING SUPPERS Yellow Split Pea Sambar with Turnips, Eggplant, and Butternut Squash . . . 50 Vidalia Onion Soup with Aged Gruyère . . . 64 Lime Leaf and Green Pea Risotto with Fennel . . . 72 Tender Squid with Curry Leaves and Fresh Grated Coconut . . . 107 Quail Ragù with Piccante Frantumato . . . 130 Jamaican Jerk Pork Butt . . . 137 Braised Sambal Oelek Short Ribs . . . 154 Stewed Venison with Red Wine–Clove Reduction . . . 165

CELEBRATION CENTERPIECES Nice Salmon Salad . . . 36 Clove-Infused Tomato Soup with Puffy Lids . . . 45 Seed-Crusted Whole Roasted Cauliflower . . . 79 Ginger-Scallion Steamed Branzino . . . 96 Fire-Roasted Mackerel . . . 98 Pomegranate and Date Molasses Chicken in a Banana Leaf Packet . . . 123 Duck Confit with Pan-Seared Georgia Peaches, Caramelized Onion–Tomato Jam, and Cauliflower Puree . . . 128 Lamb-Stuffed Eggplants . . . 134 Leg of Lamb with Za’atar and Dried Apricots . . . 151 Braised Corned Beef Brisket with Grainy Mustard and Figs . . . 161

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