Denim Twirl Jumper and Embellished Jeans eBook by mamas*little*treasures

You can make this, too!

Twirl Jumper and Embellished Jeans

by Mamas*Little*Treasures

This fun and funky little set is really quite simple to make . . . but you will need an adventurous spirit to be able to start cutting up perfectly good bibs and jeans! When I first create a set using bibs or jeans, I always start with “vintage” denim. That’s because, if I make a big mess of things, I don’t want to ruin a beautiful, brand-new pair of jeans. That’s way too expensive for me! Then, once I figure out what I want to do, and get it just right, THEN I will work with new garments.

So, the first step is to take a trip to your local thrift shop where everything there is “vintage.” I always look for the high-quality jeans and bibs, like Old Navy or Gap, even Levis will work, especially when you are just experimenting. Buy several pair just in case you need to start over again, of if you get an amazing inspiration to create something totally new and different!

When you are ready, let’s get started!

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If you want to do a design similar to this one is shades of blue and brown, you can just use some of the designs in the fabrics to make your appliquĂŠs, and finish it off with some cute buttons. If you want to be a bit more adventurous, you could try the snow man appliquĂŠ pattern that is included with this pattern. Either way, this is a fun set for any season!

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Getting Started

Go ahead and start cutting! Start about 2� down from the belt loops (or waist band if there are no loops) and cut all the way around.

The front and back will now be totally separate pieces, connected only by the snaps or buttons.

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You will need to decide if you want background fabric for your appliquĂŠ. You may want to just keep the denim background on the bibs if the front has nothing on it.

Because my bibs had a pocket on the front, I had to remove the pocket and Velcro first. This can be a time-consuming task, but it is worth the time and effort to remove all the stitches carefully, and clean up all loose threads.

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Un-snap the front from the back, and press each piece really well . . . it will make the applique process so much easier if you have a smooth, flat “canvas” to create your work of art!

For the “Snow Daze” set, I found this cute snow people fabric online from Moda. I just love the bright, non-traditional winter colors! And it was the fabric that gave me the inspiration and vision for this set. Each of the little snow people on the fabric have their own “personality” and it was 5

then a simple matter to interpret my little snow girls based on the characters on the fabric.

The first decision you will need to make after your fabric choice, is which one of the fabrics you want for your bib background. I would recommend that you choose either a solid or a very subtle tone-on-tone, or even a small polka dot or gingham would work, too. I chose the turquoise tone-on-tone fabric for a simple background for my little snow girl.

Measure the width and height of the front of the bib. Cut your fabric to cover the bib. Since all bibs are shaped and sized differently, cut a piece of fabric approximately the same size as your bib and then trim to the size and shape that you prefer. Or, again, if you are going to appliquĂŠ designs from your fabric on the bib, you will skip this step.

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Be sure to measure from side to side, to be sure it is centered.

You will want to plan the complete design before beginning the appliquÊ process, so that you are sure you like what you see! I usually play around with various ideas before I settle on the one that I like – so just relax and have fun!

Using the enclosed pattern, or making up your own as you go, cut out and lay all pieces on the bib bodice until you have a design that you like. If you choose to make your own, I recommend that you use any household item for a pattern that creates the shape you are looking for. I used a jar lid for the snow girl face and bottom. (You may want to add iron 7

on stabilizer before you cut the pieces, but I prefer to do that in a later step).

If you want to make you own design, use any of the features on your fabric as a pattern.

You could make a variety of types of hats, scarves, jackets, mittens, noses, arms, or other embellishments!

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You might want a little snow man with a clown hat or a top hat . . . mittens or not, button eyes, embroidered eyes, or none at all!

A sweater, a coat, a dress . . . bows, buttons, flowers, hearts -use your imagination, and just have fun!

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So, you can see, any combination of fabrics will work, even if you don’t have fabric that has snow boys and girls on it!

After you make the circles for the snow girl or boy face, use the enclosed patterns (or design your own) to make the hat, scarf, mittens, nose, and jacket. Then search through your button box, or your ribbon stash, and decide what you might want to use for eyes, or other embellishments such as buttons on the hat, scarf, or jacket.

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(Please notice . . . the first time I created my design, I didn’t include the jacket or mittens that were in the final design. Sometimes these things “evolve” as you go, so don’t be afraid to get started and then add things later on!)

Once you have decided on your design (at least your “first” draft of a design!), it is time to begin assembly. First, you will need to stabilize your appliqué pieces. Now, you could iron on stabilizer before you begin to cut out your pieces, because it is easier to cut the stabilizer after it is ironed on

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– but I usually wait just because I don’t know for sure which fabrics I will want to use until I experiment.

After you have applied the stabilizer, you may also want to use fusible web to secure each piece before you stitch. Again, I usually don’t use fusible web just in case I decide at the last minute to move something!

I usually just pin my appliqué piece in place to secure it while I am stitching.

Then, using a satin stitch that is fairly wide and quite close, stitch all around the background piece, ending with two or three straight back stitches to tie off. On my machine, the setting is .30 length, 4.0 width.

Once you have the background in place, then you are ready to create your masterpiece! Assemble all the pieces for your design, and begin

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with the first layer. Each time you place a new piece, you will want to recreate the entire design, to make sure each piece is exactly where you want it.

Also, be sure to press thoroughly after each piece is appliquĂŠd in place. This makes for a much nicer finished project.

For the snow girl design, the first piece will be the white circle for the face. Be sure to check that the face piece is placed exactly where you want it, in relationship to the sides, the top and bottom, the hat, scarf, and nose – leaving room for the eyes!

Once you have it placed where you want it, either secured with fusible web or straight pins, use the satin stitch to attach it to the bib bodice, again ending with two or three straight back stitches to tie off.

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Continue with the second layer, which will be the hat and then the jacket /dress, and then the nose. Again, place the pieces exactly where you want them, secure with fusible web or straight pins, and using satin stitch, apply appliqué piece to bib bodice. For each of these pieces, you will want to find a beginning and ending point that is on a straight line (circles don’t count! Begin and end in a place that will eventually have another piece appliquéd on top, just in case it isn’t perfect!). Do not begin or end stitching on a tight curve, as it is much more difficult to make a smooth transition from the beginning to the end, and have an inconspicuous tie off with your two or three straight back stitches.

Applique the dress / jacket with a satin stitch, tie off at the top of the dress / jacket where the scarf will cover your ending stitches. Place the scarf on top of the dress /jacket and slightly on top of the snow girl’s face (you want to be sure to keep her warm!). Applique the scarf with the satin stitch, making sure to tie off on a relatively straight line instead of one of the curved edges.

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When you get to this point, you might want to experiment with a few other embellishments . . . . mittens, eyes, buttons. I first thought I would like the mittens together, on one side. It just felt “balanced” that way!

After I decided to add the jacket, I liked the mittens better on either side – and then I thought how fun it would be to add the mitten ribbons, and tie them at the top! I also first thought I would like the bow button on the hat, and later decided to use that bow button on the scarf on the snow girl on the jeans. So just experiment, play with your little work of art, and you’ll come up with something that is just absolutely perfect for you!

After you decide where you want all your embellishments, appliqué any remaining pieces such as the mittens (if you decide to use mitten ribbons, be sure to attach them under the mitten pieces before you appliqué the mittens in place). You might want to wait on adding the buttons until you are finished, as you might change your mind! I thought I was going to use the blue buttons for eyes, and later decided to embroider the eyes and eye lashes. I also discovered two tiny rhinestone buttons in

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my button box that were just perfect for a little bling on my snow girl’s dress! Tie up your mitten ribbons, and your little lady is ready to go!

When you are happy with the design on the front, then you are ready to design the back! This appliqué technique is so easy if you have fabric with cute designs like the snow boys and girls, that you can just cut out and appliqué wherever you want them.

I chose both boys and girls for the back of “Snow Daze,” and I would recommend that you select designs that provide a sense of symmetry, even if you like an asymmetrical look. For example, even though my snow people are not lined up straight across from each other, I have them facing each other . . . just a thought to create a finished look!

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Then, again, once you like the layout, go ahead and secure the designs with either fusible web or straight pins, and appliquĂŠ to the back of the bibs with a satin stitch, ending and tying off with two or three straight back stitches. Remember to start and end your satin stitch on a relatively straight line rather that on a tight curve.

When you have the front and the back of the bibs designed just the way you want them, it is time to reconnect the two pieces. Put the front and the back pieces together, and re-snap them. Then stitch them together for a distance of about 2� on either side, directly below the snaps. Then serge the raw edge all the way around to make it easier to attach the skirt, which is the next step!

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You will be adding three tiers to the skirt, along with a ruffle, so you will want to adjust your tiers and ruffle based on the size you are making.

For the size 4T – 5/6 I used three tiers that were 5” each, with a 2 ½” ruffle.

If you are making a smaller size, measure the length you want, subtract 2” and then divide by three to determine the width of each tier. For instance, if your are making a size 2T and the length of skirt you need is 14”, then you would subtract 2” for the ruffle, and then divide the remaining 12” by three, leaving three tiers of 4” each. Decide which fabric you want for each tier and for the ruffle, and then cut the first tier the width of your fabric, which is usually 42” – 45”. Then it is time to gather it and stitch to the bodice.

There are a couple of different ways to do this . . . one way is to stitch the ends of the tier together and serge, and then run a long straight stitch all around the top. Then pull up the thread until you have the gathers the right tightness to fit on the bodice. If you have a ruffler foot, it is easy to set it on a long stitch so that each little pleat is approximately 12 stitches apart, and run your tier fabric through the ruffler to make wide gathers.

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If you use the ruffler foot, then you will not connect the ends of the strip of fabric yet. When you have the gathers made along the top of the first tier, pin the tier, wrong sides together, to the bib top, beginning close to the center back seam, and leaving the back of the tier open. After attaching the tier to the bib top, with an opening in the back of the tier of about 2� – 3�, you can bring the ends of the tier together, front to back, and stitch together. Serge the seam and press, and then finish attaching the tier to the bodice. Serge the entire seam between the first tier and the bib bodice. Usually I like to topstitch these kinds of seams, but it is very difficult on the jean fabric and will probably not look good, and you will be frustrated if you try!

Now that you have the first tier attached to the bodice, the next tiers and ruffle are easy! Tier two, of coordinating fabric, is made exactly the same as the first tier, but it is twice as long.

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Cut tier two the same width as tier one, but cut two lengths of fabric, for a total length of approximately 80” – 90”, and stitch them together at one end if you will be using the ruffler foot, or both ends if you will be hand-gathering.

Repeat the process for ruffling / gathering, attaching, and closing the back / side seam if using the ruffler foot. (On tier two, you may want your seams to begin and end on either side, to avoid having a seam directly in the middle of the front!) After you have attached tier two to tier one, serge and press the seam towards tier one and top stitch with thread to match tier ONE. Now you are ready for tier three, so get your third fabric ready to go!

Again, cut the third tier the same width as tier one and two, but this time cut three lengths of fabric, approximately 120” total (three strips 4” – 5” wide and approximately 40” long) and stitch them together at the ends.

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Be sure to close all end seams to make a continuous circle of fabric if you will be hand gathering, or leave the ends open if you will be using the ruffler foot.

Repeat the process for ruffling / gathering, attaching tiers together, and closing the back seam if using the ruffler foot. Serge and press seam toward tier two, and topstitch with thread to match tier TWO.

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And now we are ready for the ruffle! The same process is used for adding the ruffle, but I like to cut my ruffle TWICE as long as the circumference of the bottom of the skirt (so I can make a tight, full ruffle) and TWICE as wide as I want the finished ruffle to be. So, if the final circumference of the skirt is approximately 120”, then I will need a total of 240” for my ruffle. That would be six strips, cut approximately 4 ½” inches wide so that when I fold it in half, my finished ruffle will be approximately 2”, leaving room for seam allowances.

This is a good time to measure to be sure that your jumper will be the length you want it! You can adjust the length at this point by making a wider or narrower ruffle. Or if the whole thing is just too long, you can still take up each tier to shorten the garment in small increments at each tier seam. Otherwise, it is easier to adjust for length at the ruffle.

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Once you have determined the actual length of your ruffle, then begin the process of cutting, gathering / ruffling and attaching. If using the ruffler foot, set it for approximately 6 stitches between each pleat for a tighter, fuller ruffle than for each of the tiers.

Again, the only difference on the ruffle is that you will cut it TWICE as wide as the finished circumference of your jumper, fold it in half lengthwise and press, before you ruffle or gather it. This is rather a tedious process because of the length, but I think it is much easier than hemming, unless you can do a rolled hem on your machine.

Then, when you have your LONG ruffle all gathered / ruffled and ready to go, use the same technique that you used for attaching each tier.

Beginning in the back, attach the ruffle all around the bottom of tier three.

If it is hand-gathered, pull up gathering stitches to fit, stitch, and serge. If using the ruffler foot, leave approximately 2” – 3” open in the back. This seam you will close slightly differently than you did for each of the tiers.

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The reason for this is that the ruffle will be more likely to be seen from either side, as your little princess twirls and spins, and we want this seam to be completely enclosed.

Measure the length so that there will be an overlap of approximately 1� and cut off the excess. Open out one end, and press under as shown to make a finished edge.

Insert the other end of the ruffle into the folded end, pin and stitch closed. This will be topstitched, so be sure that the edges are even and that you catch both the front and the back when you stitch it closed.

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Now you can finish attaching the ruffle to tier three, serge the seam, and topstitch, making sure to use thread to match tier THREE and not the ruffle. After you topstitch and press, you now have your “Snow Daze” bib jumper! Be sure to check for any loose threads, especially around your appliqués, and tie them off and clip them to prevent unraveling or pulling out.

When you are happy with your “Snow Daze” jumper, it’s time to get the flared jeans going.

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Again, you will need to be brave and open up the outside leg seam of your jeans, but that’s not nearly as scarey as just whacking off the top from the bottom of the bibs! Remember, though, that’s the reason I always use “vintage” to start with, and I often prefer the “vintage” look (or “destroyed” or “deconstructed” or whatever the popular term is for jeans that are frayed, bleached, and generally trashed!). So, jump right in with those scissors, cut off the bottoms, and open up that side leg seam.

Open the outside leg seams to about 2”– 3” below the pocket opening. That will give you enough room to stitch the insert into the seam, and close it back up above the insert for a smooth transition. Remove all the loose threads and press each side of the opening so that you have a flat, smooth surface to work with.

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Now it’s time to start creating your design!

Remember, if you want to use designs from your fabric for your appliqués, that will work great! The following directions for the appliquéd snow man are exactly the same now matter what shapes or design you decide for your jeans.

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Use the same technique and process as for the appliqué on the bib bodice. Apply each layer of the appliqué with a satin stitch, ending on a relatively straight line (circles don’t count! I usually try to begin and end my circles where I know there will be another layer covering it in case it isn’t perfect).

Continue layers until you have completed the appliqué design of your choice. Press thoroughly after each layer is applied.

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After you finish your snow girl appliqué on one of the legs of the jeans, you can then plan your appliqué designs for the other leg and the back of the jeans.

Here you can really use your imagination! I like the look of patches, so I added a few square patches along with more of the small snow boys and girls. You could use a variety of appliqués here . . . hats and mittens would be cute, too! Or maybe another complete snow girl or boy.

Whatever you want to do, it’s your chance to be creative!

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Now it’s time to close up the sides with the inserts. Choose fabric from your collection, and cut two pieces of fabric approximately 8” wide by 16 – 18” long. Be sure you have enough length and width to completely cover the insert opening, with some left over for seam allowances. Using a washable marker, mark on your fabric the shape of the opening. Cut the triangle shape, leaving a 5/8” seam allowance.

Be sure to measure each side for length and width to be sure that they are both the same!

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Pin each side of the fabric triangle to the open side seams, meeting at the seam opening at the top. This seam will be closed above the fabric triangle if there is any remaining opening, so do not worry if it doesn’t meet exactly at the top.

After stitching the seam of the fabric triangle and the jeans, be sure to close any remaining gap in the leg seam between the top of the triangle and the pocket opening of the jeans.

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On the right side, press the seams toward the jeans, pressing the seam at the top of the triangle to one side. Measure for finished inseam length and trim to 2” less than desired finished length. Trim off any excess fabric at the bottom of the triangle, even with the bottom of the jeans, and serge all the way around.

After you determine the finished inseam length (less 2”), you will need to create the ruffle for the bottoms of the jeans. Use the same technique and process that you used for applying the ruffle to the jumper.

Cut two strips of fabric TWICE as long as the distance around the bottom of the jean legs, and approximately 4 ½” wide. If hand-gathering, stitch ends together to make a complete circle. Fold in half lengthwise and press. Stitch around the top edge with a long, running stitch, gather and pull up threads until the ruffle is the same length (distance around) as the bottom of the jeans legs. Pin the ruffle on, stitch, serge and top stitch if possible.

If using a ruffler foot, run the strips through the ruffler foot on a medium stitch length (6 stitches between pleats), leaving ends open. Pin ruffle on to the bottom of the jeans legs, and repeat the process for closing the ends with a finished seam. Trim excess fabric, open out one side of the ruffle, fold in approximately ½” and press. Insert the other (raw edge) end into the folded end, pin, and top stitch. Then finish closing up the seam, serge, and top stitch if possible.

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Front

Back

Now you have both the appliquĂŠd, twirl jumper and the flared jeans!

Next project is the tie sash and then the appliquĂŠd t-top!

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Making the tie sash is easy . . . just cut a strip of fabric the length of a width of fabric (usually around 42” – 45”) and approximately 4 ½” wide. (If you need a longer sash, just stitch two strips together lengthwise, right sides together. I have found that the 42” – 45” is just about right for a child’s size garment) Fold in half lengthwise, RIGHT sides together, and stitch from one end, creating a diagonal seam, going down one long side, and ending about 2” from the center of the length of the sash.

Begin stitching again down the length of the sash, approximately 2” beyond the center point of the length, leaving an opening to turn the sash right side out when you are finished stitching. End your stitching on the other end, creating a diagonal seam to close that end of the sash. Turn the sash right side out through opening in the center of the lengthwise seam, press, and top-stitch, turning the seam inside the sash to close the opening and top-stitching over the opening to close it. Press again and your sash is ready to wear either on the jeans or on the jumper!

Finally, it is time to appliqué on your little white turtleneck and finish your outfit. When appliquéing on t-tops or turtlenecks, I have found it easiest if I have a tight knit, not a top with ribs or other texture. Also, a heavy, high-quality knit is helpful when appliquéing. Use iron-on stabilizer on the back of the fabrics that you have chosen for your letters. Cut out the letter appliqués using the enclosed pattern or design your own letters.

Using an iron on stabilizer on the INSIDE of the top, place the letters in a design that you like on the outside. I like to do mine in a random positioning that makes sense to me! But if you like your letters straight across or up and down or diagonal . . . put them wherever you want them!

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Use fusible web or pins to hold each letter in place while stitching. Start with the first layer (which might NOT be the first letter of the word!) and apply each letter with a satin stitch in matching thread. For my placement, I chose to have the letter “O” as the bottom layer, stitched with orange thread, followed by the letter “N” stitched in purple, and finally the letters “S” and “W” stitched with turquoise thread. Again, this is a personal choice as to where and how you place your letters. Just be sure to start with the bottom layer and work up to the top layer.

After all your letters are appliquéd to the turtleneck, I would recommend that you trim off all excess iron-on stabilizer from the inside of the top. This can easily be done by pulling gently on the edges of the stabilizer and pull it away from the top up to the stitch lines. Then very carefully take a pair of small, sharp scissors and trim close to the stitch lines, removing all excess stabilizer from completely around the letters.

Now you have your complete twirl jumper and embellished jeans set, ready for any season of the year! So fun!

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“Snow Daze” by Mamas*Little*Treasures

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Snow Daze Applique Pattern

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Copyright 2007 by Nina Newton aka mamas*little*treasures All text and images contained herein are owned by and are copyright 2007 mamas*little*treasures. None of the contents of this pattern eBook may be reproduced or republished. This pattern is for the express and sole use of the customer for personal or home use, and may be used to create garments for the customer to sell on his or her own

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