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The passion of glass Each IVV object is made by hand. It’s the master glassmaker that bymolding the object gives its character. The manual treatment infuses the form with lightness and energy that only artisan passion can achieve. The difference catches the eye, small details create a peculiarity, a distinctive mark telling its unique personality.
The passion of glass Each IVV object is made by hand. It’s the master glassmaker that by molding the object gives its character. The manual treatment infuses the form with lightness and energy that only artisan passion can achieve. The difference catches the eye, small details create a peculiarity, a distinctive mark telling its unique personality.
www.ivvnet.it
www.ivvnet.it
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MILANO
UNICA CHINA
OCTOBER 21-22-23-24 Shanghai 2013
The Pavilion of Italian Textiles and Accessories at Intertextile Shanghai Apparel Fabrics Shanghai New International Expo Centre 2345 Long Yang Road Pudong Area, Shanghai 201204, China
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02.03
International Talent Support, Trieste, Italy
CONTENTS MAST HEAD
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BRAND NEWS
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RTW | corporate initiatives • Made in Marche
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RTW | Business of Fashion • News & snippets
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ART AND DESIGN • St. Mortiz Art Masters 2013 • Barbed Floss: The Guild Art Gallery
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RTW | Fashion Shows & Trade Fairs • ITS 2013, International Talent Support • ITS Trend Report • Milano Unica • Pitti Immagine Uomo • Who’s Next Prêt A Porter Paris
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RTW | Haute Couture A/W 2013-14 • PCJ Couture Week A/W 2013-14 • India Bridal Fashion Week A/W 2013-14 • Paris Couture Week A/W 2013-14
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RTW | Fashion Forecasts A/W 2014–15 • SpinExpo A/W 2014-15 • Interfiliere A/W 2014-15 • Texworld A/W 2014-15 • Munich Fabric Start A/W 2014-15
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SUBSCRIPTIONS INFO
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Cover Photo Credit: Sandeep Das Manish Arora, PCJ Delhi Couture Week A/W 13-14
Understanding the Business of Fashion... RTW offers Creative & Business information on fashion brands that are making their mark round the world...
RTW BEST of READY TO WEAR
S/S 2013 A/W 2013-14
EMBROIDERIES MATERIALS SURFACES PATTERNS SILHOUETTES STYLING
+ 1500 STYLES
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RTW
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The Woolmark Company Alexander Wang, new Ambassador for The Woolmark Company
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eading fashion designer Alexander Wang has been photographed by world-renowned photographer Annie Leibovitz as part of The Woolmark Company’s Merino Wool. No Finer Feeling global fibre advocacy campaign. Wang will include Merino wool pieces in his namesake brand’s Fall/Winter 2013 collection and champion the benefits of Merino wool as a luxury fibre. The advertisements are part of a bigger branding campaign to position Merino wool as the fiber of choice for the world’s leading designers and brands. For the two season partnership, select pieces of Wang’s Fall/Winter 2013 and Fall/Winter 2014 collections will include Merino wool and carry the Woolmark logo, which guarantees the fibre content and performance of the garment. “I have used Merino wool since I first started designing, so collaborating with Woolmark was a natural fit for me,” said Alexander Wang. “Wool has strong environmental credentials, and it feels modern, and relevant.” “We are thrilled to be collaborating with celebrated designer Alexander Wang whose modern sensibility and innovative designs exhibit the beauty of Merino wool,” says Stuart McCullough, CEO of Australian Wool Innovation, parent company of The Woolmark Company. “His ability to think differently embodies our ethos of exploring the boundless potential and versatility of wool in fashion designers’ creations.” The campaign epresents a collaboration between The Woolmark Company and the world’s premium apparel
brands. The global campaign addresses a new, younger generation of discerning shoppers. It establishes Merino as the fibre of choice for fine, contemporary fashion, and creates an expectation of the luxurious tactile experience of wearing Merino, sourced in Australia from the world-famous Merino sheep breed.
Mast Head RTW Volume Two, Number three, 02.03 ISSN Number 2229-6530
Editor & Publisher Annou Iyer Graphic Design Head Fabian Daly Advertising & Marketing Santosh Mandal E: advertise@rtwmag.com Contributing Photographers Pomy Issar, India Latiff Napolean Johari, UK Matthias Koeppel, Europe RTW Web Amit Rana Abhay Pal Chauhan
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RTW|Brand News Arrow New York
Arrow New York’s latest men’s collection focuses on formal wear getting fashionable, sharp and modern, with slim fitted shirts, stylised collar and cuffs detailing. The monochrome themed ensembles are in accent colours of blue, green and tomato red. The collection also boasts of the ‘Dressed-up casual’ look inspired by Soho, with its range of mercerised polos with button down collars and double pockets along with round neck tees with NY graphics. The women’s collection is inspired by the chic dressing style of New York, in bright corals and soothing Blues and Black and white monochrome ensembles in structured cuts. The collection is available in all the major cities and towns across India.
Brand News|RTW Amrapali Jewels
Amrapali Jewels recently launched a capsule collection of traditional south Indian heritage jewellery which features a range of beautiful and intricate gold as well as bridal jewellery. The collection features an exquisite range of gold earrings, danglers encrusted with rubies and emeralds, the traditional Ashta Laxmi gold belt carrying the 8 avatars of Goddess Lakshmi, to the traditional gold Mango Mala interspersed with rubies and emeralds, as well as the traditional Coin Necklace and Jade Billai.
UCB F/W 2013
United Colors of Benetton’s new Fall-Winter 2013 product campaign features the colourful vibes of six young international icons shot by the renowned fashion photographer Mikael Jansson. The campaign centres on music and features the ‘good vibrations’ of six young talents who represent the best of today’s up and coming fashion and music icons. Sky Ferreira - an ice-blonde pop legend,Theophilus London - the Trinidad-born Brooklyn-raised rapper, British model Lily McMenamy, 22 year old American model Chloe Norgaard, famed for her signature technicolour hair and psychedelic look, 20 year old British, Louis Simonon, the son of punk rock band The Clash’s bassist, Paul Simonon, and finally, South Korean-born 23 year old model Soo Joo Park is 23 years old, who as a child and teen played both piano and flute before deciding to concentrate on completing her piano studies.
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RTW|Brand News
Bally
Bally’s recently launched Men’s collection ‘Tour de Bally’ has been inspired from cycling in all its styles and captures the speed, ease and freedom of riding a bike to office, into the hills at weekends or taking a cycle tour with friends. A selection of ready to wear pieces, this collection has three categories: The City Biker, for businessmen who prefer to cycle around their city than take a flashy limo, features lightweight suede pieces, and penny loafers. The Cross Country collection is more sporty with all season sneakers, gym bags and duffels. While the Racer collection’s focus is a biker jacket, inspired by a vintage one from the archives. Structured with asymmetrical zips and a streamlined drape, the jacket is made with lightweight water resistant suede, and pairs nicely with their racing shoe, in “Saddle Soft” leather.
Bluestone.com
BlueStone.com is an India based online jewellery brand and its new diamond jewellery designs combine current international trends with traditional Indian ethnic style. The collection is created with diamonds and coloured stones set in gold and offers the choicest of coloured stones including ruby, emerald and pink sapphire. The collection includes earrings, pendants, rings and an entire new range of bangles and takes inspiration from various forms of Celtic, flowers and Jali patterns.
Brand News|RTW THE CANALI NAWAB COLLECTION As a tribute to the Indian culture, Canali’s latest Nawab range is totally inspired by the rich, sophisticated history of the Maharajas era. The Classic Black Nawab Suit is in mohair wool with well constructed shoulders, lined with a central placket, front pockets with flaps, a watch pocket and five varnished buttons. The trousers are modern, minimal and without pleats or turn-ups. The Velvet Nawab Jacket produced with 100% cotton velvet and silver metallic buttons adds an extra luxurious and distinguished touch to this royal collection. The Cashmere Nawab Jacket further adds to the experience of royal dressing.
FABERGÉ EMOTION RINGS
Dior VIII
A new variation on the day wardrobe in the Dior VIII collection, the white ceramic 38mm automatic model is adorned with a new pink sapphire-set dial. This model is equipped with an automatic movement, embellished with an oscillating weight lacquered in pink, and matching the shade of the stones on the dial. As elaborate on the inside as on the outside, this new timepiece is inspired by Christian Dior ’s taste for colour.
Fabergé adds to its best-seller Emotion collection, with rings in new vivid colour combinations: emerald, pink diamond, purple sapphire, turquoise, Paraiba tourmaline and multi-coloured gemstones, available from September 2013 in Fabergé boutiques. The organic shape of the ring, a contemporar y Fabergé signature, echoes the Russian affinity with the fluidity of the natural world, inspired particularly by Russia’s great rivers and mountain streams. Pushing the boundaries of design and craftsmanship, these rings share Fauvism’s freedom of form and comprise abstract compositions of creative pavé work in intense blocks of colour-rich precious and semi-precious gemstones, with each ring featuring over 300 gems.
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RTW|Brand News Daniel Wood Italian Furniture + HOME DECOR & CRYSTAL RANGE Daniel Wood brings to you exceptionally sophisticated Italian design in the Furniture as well as Home Decor & Crystal segment... For the Furniture range, Daniel Wood has set up its manufacturing unit in India and is now looking for local collaborations with Indian furniture retailers, architects, interior designers, hotels and housing project developers. The brand is looking at providing total furniture solutions to the B2B segment of the Interiors market in India. Daniel Wood’s latest luxurious designer Sofas are available in India, made in strong wood frames, solid springs, luxurious fabrics and leathers and high grade steel legs and fittings. Comfortable, valuable, functional and available in different colours, the brand offers prime materials, superior craftsmanship, infinite attention to details and exceptionally sophisticated Italian design. The price tag starts from: INR 2,00,000 onwards. www.danielwood.it
Brand News|RTW
Daniel Wood Home Decor & Crystal segment Daniel Wood presents handcrafted blown glass and crystal objects which provide a new sense of style to the home and table. Every item has its own unique personality as they are all made by hand and offers people a feeling of artistic choicest goods. The price tag starts from INR 5000 onwards. For more information, please email: info@danielwood.it
FAN DI FENDI POUR HOMME ACQUA
Fan di FENDI Pour Homme Acqua has been developed by Franรงois Demachy, Director of Olfactory Development at LVMH Fragrances, in collaboration with the perfumers Delphine LebeauKrowiak and Benoist Lapouza. This new olfactory creation boosts the fresh Italian notes in the Fan di FENDI Pour Homme Eau de Toilette. The bottle is graphic and an instantly recognizable block of glass, in masculine contrasting dark grey and horizon blue colours. With freedom of an Italian escapade, the fragrance is fresh, aromatic, energizing and chic.
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RTW|Brand News ITA Collection’s Jewel Series
ITA Collection’s Jewel Series is an award-winning luxury handbag/ accessory line made in New York and launched by sisters/partners Bita and Rouzita Vahhabaghai. Within a year of their launch, ITA Collection has been awarded and recognized by the fashion industry with the prestigious 2012 InStyle Magazine and Independent Handbag Designer Award and the recent 2013 Miami International Fashion Week Handbag Designer Award. Garnering an international following with sales in the US, Canada, South America, Europe, Asia and the Middle East, the designer sisters have combined their backgrounds in graphic design and architecture with this product range. Inspired by architectural form and handcrafted by artisans, the ITA Collection 2013 includes beautiful graphic patterns, exotic skins and stunning Swarovski Crystal fabrics that shimmer like jewels. The Collection is currently in 3 Saks Fifth Avenue locations including Beverly Hills, Bal Harbour and Miami. From F/W 2013 onwards, the brand will be available at Harvey Nichols Istanbul.
L’Oreal Professional Hair care Range
The new Mythic Oil range from L’Oreal Professionnel is a part of the brand’s salon services, Mythic Magic Rituals. The three magic rituals are Mythic Magic Shine for fine to normal hair, Mythic Repair Magic for dry damaged hair and Mythic Smooth magic for thick unruly hair. With unique combination of products, the range comes with the power of essential oils at home with Mythic Oil Nourishing shampoo, Nourishing masque and Rich Oil. The Mythic Magic Rituals are available at all leading L’Oreal Professionnel salons across India.
Brand News|RTW Lakme by Sabyasachi
Raising the curtains to the style statement of the season, Lakmé along with Sabyasachi Mukherjee, grand finale designer for Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/ Festive 2013, recently unveiled Lakmé’s new collection Lakmé Absolute Royal. This limitededition collection pays tribute to the regal era of queens and will transcend to silhouettes at the Sabyasachi showcase on 27th August 2013 at the grand finale of LFW WF 2013. Inspired by royalty, Lakmé Absolute Royal includes a glamorous limited edition range of Absolute Crème lip colours, Absolute Royal Nail Colours and Absolute Shine Line Eyeliners perfect for the festive season.
Tribute to Princess Grace de Monaco
The new Montblanc Collection Princesse Grace de Monaco is interpreted in the two designs - the contemporary Pétales Entrelacés motif and the classical Pétales de Rose motif in pink and white gold with diamonds. The Petits Pétales Entrelacés motif features miniature petals that interlock to form of a floral chain and the spectacular new Tourbillon motif where unfolding interlaced petals create a stylistic flower. The Pétales Entrelacés motif is rendered in warm pink gold, with or without diamonds pavé. This striking theme, based on interlocking openwork petals, offer rich interpretations, giving rise to the new Petits Pétales and Tourbillon motifs. Ideal love tokens, Petits Pétales feature miniature petals that interlock to form a floral “chain” on band rings, bangles and hoop earrings, or a dainty charm on ear studs, chain necklaces and bracelets. Demonstrating the virtuosity of Montblanc’s master jewellers, the spectacular Tourbillon motif, meanwhile, whips up an exuberant whirlwind of rose petals on bold statement pieces, in particular rings and hoop earrings in plain or diamond-paved pink gold. The collection is available at all Montblanc boutiques while price is available on request.
MontBlanc Patron of Art
With its Patron of Art Limited Edition Writing Instrument, Montblanc pays tribute to Leonardo da Vinci’s patron Ludovico Sforza - Duke of Milan. This limited edition is available in 888 edition (limited to 888 pieces worldwide) and 4810 edition (limited to 4810 pieces worldwide). The 888 edition is manufactured in shiny blue lacquer and is adorned with solid gold fittings. The blue lacquer of the writing instrument is decorated with ornaments inspired by the ceiling frescos at Sala delle Asse in the Sforza Castle in Milan that were created by Leonardo. While the 4810 edition has references to Ludovico Sforza, who was given the sobriquet “il Moro” (the moor) due to his unusually dark complexion, forged alliances with Naples, Venice and France to ensure the security of Milan and his own power. His legendar y black armour is symbolised on the Limited Edition 4810 by the gleaming black lacquer with 925 sterling silver inlays. The Montblanc Patron of Art Edition 2013: Ludovico Sforza is now available in our Montblanc Boutiques worldwide.
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RTW|Brand News Montblanc’s Meisterstück Selection for Men
This season Montblanc offers its patrons a capsule collection of double gusset briefcases, sleek document case, neat zippered portfolios and small leather goods assortment such as smartphone and tablet cases alongside classic items like wallets, notebooks and business card holders. The brand’s high-end Meisterstück Selection men’s leather goods line with new colours and new leather skin, epitomizes the flawless craftsmanship and elegantly restrained design for which Montblanc is renowned. The Meisterstück Selection line has, until now, been available in a single finish, alligatorprinted calfskin in cognac colour; however the latest range includes elegant flannel, warm cognac, rich burgundy and classic navy. These enhanced options are designed to appeal to the contemporary, cosmopolitan businessman who wants to bring a touch of personal flair to his professional accessories.
Popley Eternal
Mumbai based jewellery house, Popley Eternal’s latest emerald collection is innovative, trendy and contemporary. This assortment offers earrings, bracelets, bangles, rings and necklaces studded with stunning emeralds and diamonds. The peacock inspired and designed necklace and earrings is a medley of Columbian emeralds with Belgium cut vvs1 diamonds, while the elegant bracelet bangle is set in 18kt gold and is studded with emeralds, marquise and round diamonds. Another necklace from the collection is delicately set with assorted shapes of Round, Marquise and Pear shaped Diamonds. The prominent feature of this necklace are the squared shaped emeralds that would make heads turn around. The prices are available on request.
Brand News|RTW
Raisons, New Delhi
Raisons is a luxurious fashion house based in New Delhi, offering handcrafted products such as saris, suit coordinates, fabrics, pashminas, stoles scarves and shawls. The product range also offers evening wear as well as wedding woven sarees. With their forte being hand embroideries, Raisons has been offering creative ensembles in unique weaves made by some of the best weavers, artisans and craftsmen. The latest offering by this couture house is a collection of hand woven silk Chanderi sarees. The collection includes contemporary design patterns intricately woven with resham borders dipped in golden blush. The borders have been highlighted with hues of vivid colours such as parrot green and palpable purple giving it a chic and alluring appeal. Starting from INR 15,000 onwards, the collection is available at Raisons Stores -E-4, South-Extension 2, New Delhi as well as UG-11, Grand Mall, M.G Road, Gurgaon.
PRADA CANDY L’EAU
Prada recently unveiled Candy L’Eau, the new fragrance of Candy, which is now available in all the Prada stores and in department stores and perfume shops globally. A new, fresher and more joyful version of the fragrance keeps all the sophisticated features of the original perfume. Launched in the form of movie, the French actress Léa Seydoux is Candy as the leading character, and has been directed by Wes Anderson and Roman Coppola. The two US directors have created a real tale in three episodes that, through their vision, encompasses Candy’s intense, exciting life. The three episodes were revealed on Prada.com and were screened in a select circuit of cinemas in Italy, France, United Kingdom and Germany.
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RTW|Brand News Revlon
The latest for the finger tips, Revlon Nail Art offers 30 shades with innumerable possibilities. The Nail Art collection offers three different styles with which to mix, match and paint. The Neon collection allows you to brighten your neon with a white base coat for a pop of shocking colour; the Moon Candy collection lets you discover nails with 3D, iridescent top coats over deep base colours for a multi-dimensional, cosmic look. The Expressionist collection taps into the artist in all of us with a palette of 10 colour combinations. Revlon ColorStay is priced at INR 650, while the Nail Art collection is priced at INR 300 and are available across India.
Revlon introduces new ColorStay Ultimate Suede Lipstick, which is aims to be a one-step, ultra comfortable lipstick that would last all day. The Lipstick contains a lip ingredient complex of Shea butter, Vitamin E and Aloe that provides moisture to lips for a hydrated look. The lipstick also provides hours of food-proof wear with even application for full, creamy colour coverage. With 18 shades to choose from, this new lipstick range caters to offer a perfect mix of fashion and function.
SS Homme
SS Homme, the Bespoke Menswear recently launched its boutique store in Bandra, Mumbai. A brainchild of co-founders Sarah Sheikh and Sandeep Gonsalves, the SS Homme store is chic in stark black and white hues, with soft shades of grey; while the artifacts and displays highlight the aesthetics. The interiors are done by the interior designer Desiree Gonsalves. With its USP being bespoke, the store focuses on the high degree of “customization�, and involvement of the customer along with the designer. The store also houses high end international fabrics and accessories for its clients. Located at Deccan Court, S.V Road, Bandra West, Mumbai, SS Homme is making a mark in Indian menswear sector.
Brand News|RTW Voylla.com
Voylla.com, the online store for designer jewellery and accessories, introduces the new ‘Tribal’ Collection that is attractive, colourful and beautifully contemporary. The brand was founded in 2012 by two ex-Amazonian Vishwas Shringi and Raj Uparkar and caters to women who like trendy, easy to maintain sophisticated jewellery and accessories. The diamond range starts from INR 820 and sterling silver range starts from INR 700 while the accessories start from INR 500.
Zaveri & co.
Zaveri & Co. a well known brand, in the jeweller y industr y, this season offers a wide array of blue sapphire Jeweller y. The new collection brings in an inspirational feel to fashion with its spectacular line of vibrant blue sapphire earrings and neckpieces assembled with yellow and white gold. Blue Sapphire Set is beautifully placed on white gold and studded with round diamonds and baguettes, with blue sapphire dangling at the base as a drop of water. The other featured eloquent set of blue sapphire is studded with blue sapphires, diamonds and pear shaped diamonds placed beautifully on yellow gold. The collection is available at the brand’s jeweller y house located at Swagat, C.G Road, Ahmedabad. www.zaveriandco.com
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RTW Magazine presents…
Fashion & Design Residency in Italy Duration: 1 month RTW Foundation is preparing itself for its first Fashion & Design Residency Program. This 1st annual Residency program will take place in Italy in the beginning of 2014 The upcoming Residency Program 2013 has been developed around an intensive time spent within the fashion districts of Italy and will culminate with visiting some of the top Italian brands & design houses as well as interactions with various Italian fashion houses and fashion/design institutions The residency program will be rewarded to 1 emerging talent from India with, adjudged and selected on the basis of an evaluation by selected Jury members. Visit the rtwmag.com / Residency page to have access to more information
Procedure to Apply Using our Trends featured in RTW’s current magazine, the students will send in: 3 Concept notes + Mood Board of their proposed collection for Fashion / Design residency program, along with a Cover letter & Curriculum Vitae. Samples of previous works. RTW will cover the cost of travel and will be able to provide a suitable accommodation. The residency is scheduled to last four weeks through the beginning of 2014. Chosen applicants will undergo an intense schedule interacting with fashion industry in Italy. The deadline to receive all applications is November 15, 2013. Chosen candidates will be informed by January 15, 2014.
RTW Fashion Incubator is a not-for-profit organization & the RTW Resident Program is RTW’s premier membership program. *Residency based on compliance as per the Government Permissions & Visa Authorities
For more information, please visit www.rtwmag.com
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Made in
Marche
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Defined as the “New Tuscany”, the Region of Marche is fast developing as a competitive Design Hub in the world market... By Annou Iyer, Editor, RTW Mag
Made in Marche Italy’s Hidden Design Treasure
Corporate Initiatives|RTW Regione Marche Special
RTW decided to visit this relatively unknown region, where Italy’s finest craftsman meticulously transform ideas into world’s finest fashion, leather and luxury products…
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n central Italy on the Adriatic coast, the Marche region is striking for the rich variety of its main characteristics: environment and landscape, history and tradition, art and culture, expertise and knowledge. The Marche region is characterized by an economic structure strongly based on the manufacturing industry, with a high industrialization rate as with the more advanced regions of Italy. Synonymous by a strong entrepreneurial spirit that originates in the ancient family traditions of Le Marche’s cluster manufacturers, the region runs on an unusual model, whose success is based on a vast and widespread network of small family run enterprises. The so called ‘Marche Region model’ has been often indicated as a model from which one could draw important policy lessons. Particularly how its art and design territories which have practically no chance to compete for ‘global development’, by attracting foreign direct investment, may want to try to promote ‘endogenous development’.
Some brands whose products are manufactured by small and micro enterprises in Le Marche • EMPORIO ARMANI • TOD’s • CARLO PIGNATELLI • ROBERTO CAVALLI • JIL SANDER • GIANFRANCO FERRÈ • DOLCE & GABBANA • CANALI
• VERSACE • FURLA • LARDINI • GILMAR • FAY • MAXMARA • FORNARINA
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Fierce Independence of Italian Regionalism Representing “Made in Italy ” in its true sense, the Marche region offers a range of skills and expertise in sectors such as hides, leather, footwear, accessories; textile and clothing; wood and furniture; mechanics; food production: shipbuilding; rubber and plastic; and tourism. Probably this is the only place in the world where one can see leading brands and established companies found side by side with small production firms, manufacturers and craftsmen. What is most refreshing here is the strength of community and the vitality that matches its heritage. The region’s companies have been operating in various highly specialised sectors. The typical regional excellences from Marche are fashion, furniture and agricultural sectors.
40% of Marche’s workforce is employed in the textile, garment, footwear, minerals and metal, mechanics and furniture industries. Over 25% of the region’s exports come from the Footwear and garments 25% while furniture represents 5%. In addition, there are various productions belonging to the ancient handicraft tradition, well known in the world through product image economic profile which is also a vehicle for the culture of the territor y: musical instruments, gold smiths, textile manufacturing, hat production, production of high-end paper and other artisan products. At the same time, the Marche region has also developed new high technology sectors in the territor y, which offer innovative products and services such as: domotics (both for Ambient
Assisted Living and eco-sustainability), advanced telecommunications, multimedia animation, educational toys, pharmaceuticals, and biotechnology. Together these products contribute to develop around the world the image of “Made in Marche”. Our visit to Regione Marche included meetings with Mr. Orsetti Raimondo, Director of International Affairs, Culture & Tourism and visits to several factories, Leather, Footwear & Accessories Marche is known for its leather craftsmanship and artisans, producing 90% of all Italy ’s shoes. Many are hidden in the hill-top towns (in the centre of Marche near Fermo), family run businesses quietly making beautiful leather items for the big designer names. The region is one of
Corporate Initiatives|RTW Productive clusters localization
PU
AN
MC
Mechanics
FM
Multisector Hide, leather, footwear Wood and furniture
AP
Textile, clothing
Source: IPI - Institute for Industrial Promotion the leading regions for the number of companies in the leather and footwear sector. Boasting of the biggest network, in terms of number of companies and workers employed, of satellite leather and footwear industries in Italy, the Region has over 5,000 enterprises based on handcraftsmanship and its main export markets are: European Union, Russian Federation, North America and Far East. Fashion Manufacturing is predominant in the sector, while textile is identified with knitwear. In terms of distribution throughout the territor y, companies which produce garments and clothing, specialized in high fashion items, are located mainly in the provinces of Ancona and Macerata, whereas in the provinces of
Ascoli Piceno and Fermo there is a concentration of small businesses involved in the production of hats. In the province of Pesaro-Urbino there are numerous companies involved in the production and treatment of casual clothing. The knitwear and stockings district is spread around the province of Macerata and in the area of Urbino, where there is a significant presence of the wool industr y (spinning, winding). In 2011 the main export markets were Russia, Germany (+10% with respect to 2010) and France (+17%), followed by Denmark and Romania (+14.8%). Wood and Furniture The wood and furniture industr y holds a prominent position in the manufacturing sector. Located principally in the province of PersaroUrbino, the wood and furniture
district boasts relevant sites also in the provinces of Ancona, Macerata and Ascoli Piceno. The presence of high-tech industries for the production of machines used for wood carving, has contributed to the sector development. The group of kitchen furniture producers is the most copious and important and has gained the lead role for the whole sector. The production of living room and bedroom furniture, armchairs and sofas, office furniture, bar and shop interiors, wicker furniture, and glass and cr ystal fittings is remarkable as well. In 2011, the main export markets were France, Russia (+19.5% with respect to 2010) and Germany. Other markets with registered a significant growth were: Switzerland (+ 13,9%), United States (+26,1%) and The Netherlands (+45,1%).
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Camerino, Macerata
Ancona
Monte San Bartolo, Pesaro-Urbino
Torre di Palme, Fermo
Offida, Ascoli Piceno
Corporate Initiatives|RTW
Fano, Pesaro-Urbino
Ascoli Piceno
Cingoli, Macerata
Loreto, Ancona
Porto San Giorgio, Fermo
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RTW|Corporate Initiatives Our visit to Regione Marche included visits to some to the best companies of this region such as Fiam, Scavolini, Loriblu, Orlandi, Silvio Lattanzi & Tombolini, which are international market leaders in their subsectors. We also met with Mr. Gian Mario Spacca, President, Regione Marche as well as Mr. Orsetti Raimondo, Director of International Affairs, Culture & Tourism, Regione Marche. The President, Mr. Gian Mario Spacca gave us an insight on what makes this region special... Interview by Annou Iyer
RTW: Q&A Regione Marche attracts visitors and buyers from all over the world. What are the promotional activities and plans you have put in place to promote Regione Marche to target visitor countries? The Marche stands for multiplicity, even when we talk about tourism. Therefore, the Region has fully increased the value of its extraordinary beauty and the many opportunities for the tourist offered by the territory. This is why the regional tourism strategy aims at promoting the different kinds of tourism that The Marche can boast - Sea, food and wine, spas, culture, mountains, meditation, sports, religion, historic villages. In order to face the challenge of the global market even in the tourism sector, The Marche came out from the logics of fragmented supply by territory, to favour the “product” offer, real networks of the same tourist proposal. The Marche abandoned the logics of local offer and presented the market with a single brand, The Marche Brand, the only one which is able to create the critical mass, which is necessary to assert itself at an international level. The Marche has been acting like this for a long time and this strategy is rewarding: The Marche is now out of the shadow, is ‘in fashion’, this is how international magazines and newspapers recognize this region. Therefore, The Marche is going on running across this way, integrating every single tourism product one with each other and enhancing its peculiarity at the same time. The Marche’s sea with its 16 blue flags, the most beautiful villages in Italy, the cellars and the finest wines, excellent cuisine as well as fashion; The Marche with a hundred theaters, the most prestigious opera seasons, religious and spiritual paths along the “rolling hills,” as American people like to call them. They defined the region one of heavens on earth where to live. The territory can offer its best in every season: the exploitation of accommodation facilities in low seasons is therefore an important point of our strategy. Qualitative growth, development of the presence of The Marche in the international
market especially favouring the areas with greater added value, increasing use of the web: these are the guidelines we are focusing on.
What is your strategic orientation for 2013 as far as emerging markets are concerned? We want to continue along the way with firm belief we have been going through for many years. The Region has indeed adopted a very determined action of strategic alliances with regional and provincial governments of all the BRIC countries. With India, China, Russia, Brazil, and, recently, the United Arab Emirates, The Marche has formed “alliances” with economic and institutional regions and provinces, started partnerships and strategic projects. The Marche Authorities had to build the basis to open these countries to the enterprises from The Marche Region. If the Made in Marche is so appreciated and recognized in these areas of the world, it is also thanks to the constant action of the Region, which let the territory be acknowledged as a reliable and appreciable partner.
What are the key emerging markets for Regione Marche? All the so-called BRIC countries which now, for The Marche, are no longer emerging countries, but are the real protagonists of the world economy. Strongly developing countries despite the international crisis, where new high income brackets are emerging. Strategic areas for The Marche’s companies, which on the contrary, in traditional markets (Italian and European) have to face many difficulties due to the economic crisis that particularly affects our continent. By contrast, the growth these countries underwent in recent years, and the strength they showed up against the heavy international crisis that hit all the more developed economies, makes them the ideal partners for The Marche, a manufacturing industry. What’s more, the most manufacturing region in Italy in relation to population. And it is not by chance that the exports of The Marche towards these realities grew by 10% in 2012.
Regione Marche’s unique creative offerings have caught the attention of international fashion brands and investors, especially Chinese visitors & investors. How do you see its influence in Regione Marche? The recent crisis that threatened all the economies of the world, taught us that you can continue to grow only by working together, putting together the best of our virtues and our best productions of qualified projects, respectful of citizens and of the environment we live in. This is what we did with the Far East. The internationalization has always been one of the priorities of Marche’s government. It is only with the opening abroad, particularly in countries with high growth rates, that it is possible to deal with the severe economic crisis that we are still living, and aim to re-launch looking at the future with confidence. So far, the path followed by The Marche was mainly that of the promotion of business and of the economic production system abroad, through an action of support and technical assistance on the fastest growing markets which are not always easy to deal with. Now the strategy is finalized, with the strengthening of investments attraction in The Marche. Among the actions the Region is undertaking in this direction, it may be recalled the establishment of a register of professionals (planners, management engineers, architects, etc.) specialized in technical and commercial access to potential investors, in particular in support of preparatory activities for foreign investment inflows. According to the requirements defined by the Region, these can be identified and officially accredited professionals who are able to support the start-up of projects to be set up in The Marche. A “Fund for the promotion of productive investment and employment in the territory” will be set aside, with a budget equal to € 1.5 million, for the provision of
Corporate Initiatives|RTW
vouchers, with a public coverage of up to 50%, to admitted professionals. The Marche is receiving increased attention from foreign investors who consider Marche’s businesses and territory as a reliable and concrete partner. And this is the way, we want to go on with greater and greater conviction.
Moreover, which are those factors that are attracting Chinese visitors & investors? And, what are those motivating features of Regione Marche’s industry, which can pull attention of global investors? The areas of interest for Chinese investors are mainly fashion, clothing and footwear representing the pride of Made in Italy, but also the mechanical, marine, logistics systems, the service sector such as health. The Marche is a region rich in knowledge, home of world famous brands with a strong appeal, boasting experience and know-how in many areas. China has huge financial resources and is looking for new “outlets”. From this land, Chinese investment in The Marche have been created. Suffice it to recall the case of the Benelli, taken over in 2005 by the Chinese group Qinjiang, which has survived the crisis thanks to the opening of the market to foreign investors in accordance with The Marche style. Another striking example is the recent acquisition of shares of the Ferretti Group by Weichai Group, from Shandong. This is the largest Chinese investment ever made in Europe. An investment that has allowed the re-launch of the shipyards and the resilience of employment. The trust that over the years has developed between this province in China and The Marche Region, I believe has contributed
to the achievement of this important result, recently confirmed by the launch of the largest yacht ever built in Ancona, the 80 meters Chopi Chopi designed to the family of the Lebanese Prime Minister. And then, I was saying, fashion, especially shoes. The interest of the Chinese market to the Marche’s products was proven by the success of The Micam Show in Shanghai: the important footwear exhibition, which has landed for the first time abroad, had as protagonists the entrepreneurs from The Marche who have confirmed their appeal in China. I mentioned then the services: just recently a Chinese delegation visited some of our hospitals, such as the company Marche Nord in Pesaro. One area on which we want to open our horizons more and more internationally. Top design, quality and originality of the product and intelligent interpretation of the factor of greater competitiveness are now offered to businesses in international markets: these are the strengths of the Made in Marche that is gaining much attention from foreign investors.
How trading with Regione Marche can be rewarding globally for exporting and importing countries? Product quality, research, reliability, combined with the history and tradition of manufacturing in The Marche, ancient yet always focused on the future. The countries with which historically the region has trade relations and on which the export is stronger, better ask or demand that the products are not only regional, but that they are actually made in The Marche. A guarantee that our companies, in all sectors, are able to offer.
We are confident that the relationships and institutional partnerships, as I said, the Region has started with provinces and regions in countries such as India, China and Russia, have contributed to the recognition of The Marche as reliable system. Our export is therefore constantly growing even with a crisis like the one that our country is still experiencing.
Which are the major export and import countries for Regione Marche companies? Why? In terms of absolute value, the 27 European countries are the largest recipients of exports from The Marche, yet the BRIC countries immediately follow. And it is especially on the percentage growth in the last few year that the Far East, as well as North America and the United Arab Emirates, mark the best performance for The Marche’s products. For the former, the growth in 2012 was 10% compared to the previous year, for Canada, the United States and the UAE, the growth was 38 +% in both cases. This trend follows the geography of institutional relations I spoke earlier about. Relations have grown year after year and passed not only through more traditional forms of agreements of the program, but even by the most innovative ones. I think of the cultural projects that The Marche has realized in Canada, the United States, China, Argentina, with exhibits from the strong emotional appeal for the public. Another reason for the success of the products of The Marche in these countries, is the growth - I think especially in the BRIC - of the high quality customers, who are more and more demanding and appreciate the quality and research that are the hallmarks of Made in Marche.
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Regione Marche Special
Fiam
Recently celebrating its 40th Anniversary, my visit to Fiam Italia Headquarters and their Museum of Glass left me fascinated by the founder, Vittorio Livi’s lifelong commitment to art, design and creation…
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ased in Pesaro, in Marche Region, Fiam Italia is one of the most inspiring brands in the design world. Fiam Italia is not just a Glass manufacturing company. The idiosyncrasy of its huge body of work lies in its specialization of developing curved glass in different features that truly serves craftsmanship and artwork. The company was established in 1973, and since then, Vittorio Livi, an Italian designer with boundless passion has created challenging projects for the enterprise. Curved glass being the main FIAM Italia furnishings’ feature: unique pieces of furniture have been created over decades to give a
special touch to the space. Furnishings have been realized with special techniques by specialized craftsman and master benders who possess the know-how in the field of curved glass manufacturing. “Glass would become a unique star in the world of fine design, being used to produce items of furniture which would be astonishingly solid yet beautifully transparent; design items which would rise above the age of their production, untouched by the passing years, spaces and fashions.” Vittorio Livi, Founder, Fiam Italia Vittorio Livi
Ghost
Shell
Caadre
Toki
Fiam’s Design Classics For the past two decades, Vittorio Livi has invited famous Italians as well as world renown designers to cooperate and create several interesting works, such as Philippe Starck, Enzo Mari, Massimo Morozzi or even Ron Arad to produce an eclectic collection that includes tables, chairs, storage, and complements. One of the masterpieces of FIAM is the ‘Ghost’ chair which was designed by Cini Boeri and Tomu Katayanagi in 1987. It consists of a spacious, comfortable, elegant, streamlined armchair made from a 12 meter single piece of molded glass that looks both massive and ethereal, playing the dematerialized qualities of glass off the broad lines of the seat and back. This famous design was another opportunity for Fiam to dream up one of its ultra innovative production techniques that can support a huge weight.
While “Ghost” of Boeri and Katayanagi makes use of a single sheet of glass, ‘Shell’ stunningly blends form and function and explores the unique qualities of glass. The work, designed by Danny Lane is created by pieces of curved glass held together by stainless steel tubes. The exquisite ‘Caadre’ mirror, a simple rectangular design made entirely out of glass has been created by world famous Philippe Starck for Fiam Italia. The distinctive feature of this mirror is its size and curved glass frame, a unique Fiam Italia skill. The frame is made of a 6-mm thick glass with a metallic paint finish. Two Japanese designers, Setsu and Shinobu Ito who are based in Milan have produced a table top named ‘Toki’ from a curving 10 mm-glass that can support weight and provide practical space.
The Process State-of- the-art technologies developed by Fiam Italia are applied at particular stages of the process to ensure that the material is as resistant as possible. Fiam’s philosophy is to combine modern methods perfectly with the individual skills of its expert glass makers to make each piece unique. Today, the Fiam collection have reached its fifth generation of glass bending plants, with the master craftsmen now assisted by technologies and materials that allow designers the flexibility to create pieces that would have previously been impossible to realize. Even though Fiam Italia’s 40th Anniversary has recently passed, they continue to develop their technique as well as their product. Their philosophy signifies the material’s principal properties of purity and strength and most importantly its property of renewing itself with changing times.
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Regione Marche Special
Fiam
We spoke to Vittorio Livi to understand what makes Fiam such a sought after brand, which is also now available in India... RTW: Q&A What are the challenges you have faced over the last many years in the glass industry? How do you cope with the emerging economical pressures of the industry? Fiam celebrates 40 years in business this year, and this experience has enabled it to overcome the difficulties facing it during the last few years of economic downturn; its cultural and financial soundness have protected it from the market’s problems and from economic difficulties. Product innovation to stimulate the market, the rationalisation of company costs and the high business standards of our distributors; all these have helped us to keep our company in line with the market’s needs.
What is the future of the glass industry? Can glass items replace wooden furniture in the long run? Glass is the modern age’s most interesting material, because it is environment-friendly and infinitely recyclable. Since it is transparent, it does not visually occupy space and it enhances the effect of the other furnishings by highlighting the whole of its interior design context. It fits attractively into any style, whether modern, antique or contemporary, it is resistant to weather, it gains in value over time and its durability is unlimited. We have a collection called “myths for everyday use” because our products can be used for a variety of purposes and are there when you need them. Naturally, although glass has now been with us for 7,000 years there is still a lot we need to find out about it, so research is a major investment area for us, and so is design. It is only with these characteristics that glass will have a great future. All the companies which have not given due weight to this aspect but have only focused on price have gone out of
business or are heading that way. Our customers expect quality, innovation, design and culture: they want to feel secure in their purchase and to show off objects of value.
How the designers associated with Fiam Italia contributed in the growth of your brand? How do you ensure to make use of their creative vision? Since we have created a profession that did not previously exist, we have been forced to continually invent equipment and technologies that would enable us to put our designers’ many imaginative ideas into practice; we have never set technical limits, and have given them full opportunity to express their talent. This in turn has stimulated us to push back the boundaries of our know-how. Our laboratory and research centre are constantly under pressure, and sometimes it has taken us years of research and experimentation to develop products that initially appeared impossible. There is no point to our company unless it is stimulated by great design professionals to grow through research and quality, by producing prestige objects.
How did you manage to bridge the gap between the quality of your products and making it commercial viable at the same time? One of our company ’s tasks has always been to transform the ideas of the top international designers, who interpret the main design currents of our age, into reality (this is why it has received the Compasso d’Oro Career award). Although it has been a long process, because it has required us to build up trust, we have succeeded in conquering a market niche amongst people in search of products that are not only functional but also convey emotion. Every piece expresses the
artistic signature of its master designer, but we give just as much importance to the work of the master glass-maker in the furnace, where he shapes glass to his will at a temperature around 700°C, impressing on it all the love and passion that go into its making. In the furnace, every product is marked not only with the logo but also with a number that indicates the date, the master glass-maker who made it and the piece number, making it truly unique. Connoisseurs know that only pieces with these markings are guaranteed as genuine Fiam creations.
How do you come up with new designs? After market research, and after identification of a number of pointers to coming trends, we assess the trends we consider most interesting and the needs of our catalogue, after which we look for the designers best suited to that particular brief.
Any set priorities in the creation process? How do you ensure that the creative process of the product is not compromised with the customer’s demand? Our research laboratory and the workshop that produces the prototypes are always on the boil, partly because not all the prototypes we produce are subsequently put into production. Generally, the designer and the laboratory meet 4/5 times to ensure that the technical difficulties do not override the design’s stylistic identity, and to look for the best solutions in terms of costs; in the end, our technical staff always draw on their experience to solve the problems, preferably with original solutions.
Corporate Initiatives|RTW Regione Marche Special
Orlandi Celebrating sartorial craft, Valentino Orlandi is a historic Le Marche leather goods brand, with over 30 years of history, which manufactures bags in the highest tradition of the Marche…
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rlandi leather bags are synonymous with good quality and taste. Set in Corridonia, in the Province of Macerata in the Italian region Marche, Valentino Orlandi is a leading brand in producing and distributing “Made in Italy” bags. Founded in 1974 by Valentino Orlandi himself, the brand always had a character of the founder’s elegance and good taste with its usage of high quality material and contemporary design. ‘‘A point of reference of Marche leather district, the company covers a factory area of 5000 sq meter and from here precious creations are sent all over the world to represent one of best expressions of Made in Italy.’’
The Process of Creation The brand’s original and exquisite materials are processed and handled by internal master craftsmen, who along with Valentino Orlandi, select all the materials, colours and luxurious hardware in order to offer the right product addressed to its clientele. The products are guaranteed by the years of experience, modern product technologies, and use of rare leathers and by professionalism of the in house experienced artisans. Today, Valentino Orlandi guides the company with his wide Adelaide in charge of manufacturing process and with his daughters Cristina and Francesca in charge of sales department.
Valentino Orlandi
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Regione Marche Special
Loriblu
An Italian footwear company famous for their glitzy, bejewelled sandals that are popular among Russian and Middle Eastern high flyers, celebrities and anyone wanting their feet to be remembered…
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uring our visit to Loriblu’s factor y & Showroom in Marche, we met Mrs. Annaria Pilotti who manages, together with her husband, Graziano Cuccù, the running of the company. Loriblu is a well- established and historic firm, born in the 70’s, characterized by a continuous positive trend: it is a leader in the luxur y range footwear market. Graziano Cuccù established Loriblu in the early 70’s and he continues to create all the collections himself. His wife, Annarita Pilotti is involved with Graziano in the running of the company.
“In Graziano Cuccu’s words, the founder of Loriblu, “I would like to have been an archaeologist, I was enamoured of the beautiful things. I am in love with beautiful things that could be handmade.” This Italian shoemaking brand believes in the beauty of simplicity and expresses entirely, the solidity of a tight-knit team and of a staff formed by highly qualified and skilled professional figures and craftsmen. The brand redefines contemporary approach to glamour, sensuality and style, while retaining the highest quality and comfort. It’s use of out-of-the-ordinary and unexpected design combinations make its each shoe a perfectly crafted work of art.
Mrs. Annaria Pilotti and Graziano Cuccù
Style Quotient The Mignon (an extremely feminine shoe that develops from simple little woven stripes of leather) became his first successful style, followed by the Jewel Sandal in the’80’s and ‘90’sthat constitutes a Loriblu must-have to this day. In the last few years, the Loriblu brand has remarkably widened thanks to a thorough stylistic research and product innovation in the field of luxury footwear, while firmly maintaining the Marche-based shoemaking tradition. Leather twisted together exclusively by
skilled hands, Swarovski encrusted sky high heels and risqué thigh length boots made with buttery Leathers and Suedes are its Luxury style statements that have been introduced in its several monobrand shops in Italy and abroad. “Made in Italy are not just words, It’s the history, tradition and culture of our country, and the craft of so many men and women who work to create things of true beauty.” Annarita Pilotti
Internationalization Loriblu has today managed to make its mark internationally and in emerging markets and continues to grow into an international company with its product diversification with its ranges in bags, jewel line, fragrances for women, besides footwear. The brand is present at Roma, Milano, Parigi, Mosca, San Pietroburgo, Dubai, Doha, Khabarovsk, Grodno and most recently, Paris. It’s next stage of development will begin with its mono brand store openings in Brazil, China and South Africa.
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Regione MarcheUomo Special Pitti Immagine
Silvano Lattanzi I visited the noted Italian shoemaker during my trip to Marche and I found out why from Milan to New York City, Silvano Lattanzi is celebrated as the world’s leading custom footwear maker…
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ootwear maker Silvano Lattanzi prides himself on meticulous workmanship, crafting each pair of shoes by hand from the most luxurious materials. His “Shoe Laboratory” or the Head Quarters are beautifully located in Sant’Elpidio a Mare, a town and commune in the province of Fermo, in the Marche region of Italy. Here, the customers can choose among 400 leathers, differing heel styles, lining, stitching, and even eyelets, for shoes to be elaborately made by hand with the utmost skill. His company, Zintala was started in 1971 by Silvano Lattanzi himself, who hailed
Silvano Lattanzi
from a family of shoemakers. Since then till now, the company has fitted some of the most elite feet around the globe including the American Presidents such as Ronald Reagan and Barack Obama to celebrities such as Uma Thurman and many more. The brand has footwear aficionados enjoying the quality of his bespoke shoes all across the globe. “I’ve always believed that beauty is everywhere in the world and my visualization of the world that I had, as a part of my vision helped me cross the borders.”
The indigenous Process From the moment the skin is chosen, there are over 300 operations to make a pair of Silvano Lattanzi shoes. It takes 30 to 33 hours and seven to 14 days to complete, depending on the humidity of the season. Of course, the Made to measure orders take much more time and is more complex. Silvano Lattanzi on his beginnings & his success I had to start the tradition about 40 years ago, when Marche was an agricultural region and very poor. So when I started my company, I had to change that impression about the region. I knew that I had to grow out of Marche and reach to New York, London, Paris and even Mumbai. In terms of internationalization, I have politically stayed away from the
influence of China and Russia and have followed England, America and India’s ethos. That’s why I am very happy to have you here from India. So to be famous in the 70s and being the best in the world, I think that became my biggest advantage. I’ve always believed that beauty is everywhere in the world and my visualization of the world that I had, as a part of my vision helped me cross the borders. I always say that anyone who knows how to manufacture leather, can do anything in fashion, because leather is a very rigorous and demanding material, the processing of which requires arm strength and accuracy in your fingers through which leather is sewn with the help of a small needle. That’s why at that time, and in the following years, those characters who had acquired
great skills and good taste in making bags and suitcases found it natural to include the design of fabrics and tailored clothes with results that soon overtook French haute couture. What my company represents and what my finished products represent is a ethical role, rather than commercial one: the role to preserve some ancient rules of processing of leather, while respecting the environment around me and the memory of those who were our masters . Today, his 34 and 32 year old sons are taking forward the legacy, right from Sant’Elpidio a Mare in Marche, where it had all started. The brand has boutiques in Rome, Milan, St. Moritz, Porto Cervo, New York, Beijing, Shanghai and Hangzhou and soon. Mumbai is his next stop !
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Regione Marche Special
Scavolini Scavolini from Montelabbate, province of Pesaro, Marche region in Italy is one of the most important industry of Marche that has been offering best kitchen furnishings for more than 50 years in the home market...
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s a leading designer and manufacturer of exclusive classic and modern Italian kitchen cabinetry with an equally exclusive reputation, Scavolini has impressively large figures, with a growing success at the international level. From a small workshop, this family run company has grown to major industrial status in Kitchens, Living, bathrooms, Tables and Chairs. We met with Vittorio Renzi, general manager of the company, to know more on the Group’s growth and development plans and their future markets of interests…
Mr. Vittorio Renzi CEO of Scavolini Spa. Please share with us the history of Scavolini Initially a small workshop, Scavolini launched its business in Pesaro in 1961 with a small range of fitted kitchens, which immediately prove very popular. This was the start of the great adventure of the brothers Valter and Elvino Scavolini who, encouraged by their initial success, expanded their premises and made innovations that helped their business to grow quickly. From 1970 to 1979, in order to expand its output, Scavolini consolidated its distribution network and reinforced its sales network, adopting more and more leading-edge
technologies, and started to work with specialist designers for the first time. The aim was to come up with the best solutions and offer the best services. The company’s turnover and visibility increased and in 1975, it launched its first nation-wide advertising campaign. In 1984, Scavolini won the leading position on the domestic market and became Italy’s most important kitchen brand, and till date, we’ve managed to hold the position very well. Scavolini turned 50 years old in 2011 and today, the company has an Italian distribution network of more than 1,000 carefully selected outlets.
Can you give us an insight on your Foreign Markets? From the year 2000 onwards, Scavolini has been focussed on strengthening its international exports. We have a broad distribution network overseas that allows us to be present in more than 60 countries with over 300 sales points. We are working world wide and the United States is the most important market for us: in 2010 our American branch, Scavolini Usa, inaugurated the Scavolini Soho Gallery, the biggest kitchen showroom in Manhattan, with a surface area of 900 m2 over two levels. We have an increasingly strong presence in emerging countries including Africa and Far East where we are opening several stores, and we are a partner in major residential projects.
Will Scavolini ever consider manufacturing in China or India? Scavolini in away defines itself as the kitchen most loved by Italians. We’ve always stood for “Made in Italy”, and our production being carried out in our country with many suppliers located close to us. Hence we have created a great supply network for ourselves in the local area. This is really a strategic choice and has always been one of our strengths. We prefer to remain in Italy not only because we are deeply rooted in our country, but also because we are convinced that by staying here we are able to control the quality of our products and production processes better, providing greater assurance to our customers. Though our focus is now on developing
emerging markets, we will never change our manufacturing base to other countries. Will Scavolini ever consider manufacturing in China or India? The Scavolini Soho Gallery is situated in the artistic heart of NYC. The location is a prestigious building from the IXX century, in 1872. For more than twenty-five years, the space belonged to Nancy Hoffman Gallery, one of the most important art galleries of New York. As a tribute to such a glorious past, we have decided to maintain the architectural style unchanged and define its showroom as “Gallery”. The area of over 10,000 square feet, on two levels, not only is an exhibition of kitchens, but most of all a place that conjugates art and Italian design.
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Pitti Immagine Regione MarcheUomo Special
Tombolini Based out of a small town called Urbisaglia, in the Marche region, Tombolini company originated in 1964 from a high level of expertise and technique and an original creative eye...
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he collections of the company have been classic Italian with its usage of very high quality materials selected from the best textile manufacturers and a passion for Made in Italy. These are the main principles that inspired Eugenio Tombolini in the 50s, when he opened a shop selling hand-tailored men’s suits. And these are the same
values that now motivate his daughter, Fiorella Tombolini, who shared with us the history of the company and its internationalization‌ Today, Tombolini Industrie S.r.l. is run by his daughter Fiorella Tombolini who, together with the management team, is strengthening and expanding the business.
Dott. Fiorella Tombolini with son, Silvio Calvigioni
The History In 1933, Eugenio Tombolini was born in Urbisaglia, Macerata. He grew up in an environment where the typical agricultural activities were yielding to a developing textile industry that was fostered both by tradition and modernity. In the 50s, Eugenio Tombolini began his apprenticeship with a tailor where he acquired the art of cutting and sewing, putting to the test his own special qualities as an innovative entrepreneur. In 1964, he opened his own tailor’s shop. The business flourished entering an important stage as he began to produce his own line of high qualità menswear. In the 70s and 80s the dream of a generation began to take shape in a small area of the Marche demonstrating that wealth and community life could live hand in hand. The New markets Tombolini has been focussing on
the new markets such as China and South America, in particular Brazil and Argentina. The company already has a showroom in Buenos Aires, foreseeing the good growth prospects for the future, in spite of a certain political instability. The same is happening with Russia, where the brand has established a partnership with other high quality brands. Continuing with strength and conviction in its strategic international development plan, in the year 2012, Tombolini partnered with the prestigious Baoxiniao Group of Santangelo brand, with whom the brand has opened its third boutique in China. After Wenzhou and Hangzhou in 2011, the brand’s new store came up in Beijing. For all its new markets, the company plans to produce specific “country plans” with dedicated collections and targeted distribution, as it believes in
offering an individualized approach that is based on varying tastes. Tombolini Women’s Division The women’s fashion division, which was launched in 2002, where the brand has introduced the same level of meticulousness and quality that it applies in men’s fashion, especially with regards the choice of materials. The brand has been focusing on classicstyle suits for business women. The Zero Gravity Line Collection Tombolini’s new creations have a lightness in its suits and jackets that are made with a new technique and with fabrics of especially lightweight. The main concept of Zero Gravity is based on its soft silks and wools that make the finished garment light and comfortable to be determined, as the maximum achievable.
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RTW: Q&A
Vicunha Europe Vicunha Textil, the Brazilian denim manufacturer, recently disclosed its denim trends for S/S 2015... According to the company, the trend will be a success because it unites classic and contemporary in pieces that became essential for men and women. The brand features very light indigos and twills, perfect for shirt making. In 2013, the giant produced 16 million meters of denim per month for the world market in five of its own factories, which were sold with three-day service in its own branches and warehouses in America, Europe and Asia. The company’s broad range serves 4,500 customers worldwide. An additional one million meters of denim per year is produced through the “boutique business,” with additionally developed product lines and leased, speciallymonitored production lines in Turkey (100,000 meters), Pakistan (600,000 meters) and China (300,000 meters). We ask some seasonal questions for Thomas Dislich, Director Vicunha Europe. What is the present situation of the denim market? We have a clear feeling that in the fashion sense the demand for denim is revitalized. Economically speaking it is very positive to note that the panic period is over, and that is very important because it allows for better planning. However, times will remain difficult, unemployment and general recession in Europe will continue to provide an environment where the vertical chains gain market share by selling much product for not much money. What are the main markets VICUNHA is working best with right now? We work best with the large-volume vertical operators all across Europe. Why? Because of our very large scale we have excellent unit costs, and at the same time we have invested heavily into finishing. So we are selling about 17 Million metres per month in a great variety of articles and finishes. We have a great advantage of programming
our production autonomously. So we do not have to wait for orders to produce. What are the segments of products and brands VICUNHA is mostly focusing on? (menswear, womenswear, streetwear, vertical chains, premium brands, etc)We have a stronger focus on ladies, specifically on power and super power stretch. I would say 60% ladieswear and 40% menswear, as aforementioned mainly through vertical chains. What trade shows are you presently exhibiting? What are most useful ones for your business? We have a global policy of using self-owned show-rooms to produce the best direct link to our customers. One of them is in our European Head office in Swiss Gland near Geneva. We are also based all over the world with show-rooms. Over and above that we step up our customer visits. Distribution, constant travelling and permanent contact
with customers have become much more important. We will not be participating in European trade shows in 2013. Instead of this Business is now increasingly shifting to Asia. However, we have been preparing for this already for a long time, the very best structures are in place and this is also where we operate our most important strategy: 3 days service! From our hub in Colombo we can serve direct many European markets producing locally. Because Vicunha is working onsite with European brands’ manufacturing facilities. So the expansion to the Asian market flows automatically back to European business. This international mobility is clearly one of the South American denim figurehead’s biggest strengths. What main trends characterize Vicunha’s Autumn/Winter 2014/2015 fabric collections? I think it will remain important to offer good value for money and an excellent service. Quick reaction is king in these uncertain times.
Business of Fashion|RTW
Are there any new treatments, finishing, fiber mix, product property or function you will launch for the upcoming A/W 2014-15 seasons? For menswear, real denims are back in demand! Emphasized masculine looks as opposed to the dandies of previous seasons! In focus here is dark, 100% indigo dyed denim, for instance denim that is washable from dark to light. Also key here are dark-grey over-dyes. Washes need not look overly clean: we are using neither the term rinse wash nor “totally destroyed” but instead “dirty”. Black denim that perform as a lightweight broad-lined twill, are significant. Heavier denim versions between 12oz and 14oz are also seeing a boom. These are joined by trendy items with a slightly burled finish that are celebrating a special comeback for winter. Japanese looks are also key. For the women, denim continues its “make up” look and loves “dressing up”. Super stretch remains a key highlight! For the luxury segment, we have fabrics like Solara – for instance in black-
black with twisted or combed yarns. Light coatings make for optimum wear comfort and relaxed freedom of movement. Dark over-dyes are just as essential. These are joined by “everything that shines and glitters” – like plain denims with metallic colours and finishes or ones in combination with prints. Add to this new jacquard denims. We also have a product called Duo Colour that is covered before dyeing with a new style resin coating which means trousers can then be dyed in two colours in one sole washing process. There are shiny metallic or matt surfaces to choose from. We also offer special effects that can be achieved for dyed twills thanks to an additional coating using stone-washing. Our range, ECO D is an authentic, warpyarn dyed, coloured jeans line with a white weft thread, here the weave is made of 30% polyester gained from recycled plastic bottles. This means for every metre of ECO D there are three fewer plastic bottles on this earth! Furthermore, the dye was reduced with degradable glucose using a process developed in-house
so as to meet stricter environmental requirements. And even in the dying process itself it has been possible to reduce normal water consumption by 80%. What is revolutionary here is that 70% of the small and still remaining amount of water can then also be recycled. Technical innovation in its purest form!
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Denim: Product Innovations
Denim Trends S/S 2015
DENIM REBOOT is VICUNHA’s general seasonal theme for Spring/Summer 2015. It’s also the name of this group of highlights, which includes the most fashionable items.
Gradient The Gradient line is striking thanks to its distinctive cross hedging and very lightweight 10-oz weight. It's ideal for vintage effects in inner linings, as well as for distressed jeans and the used look. Blaine Blaine is eye catching with its 11.5-oz weight, conspicuous cross structures and stronger ring slubs in a beautiful indigo. American vintage with iconic James Dean allure! Also perfect for dark dyeing! Jordan This cool, unusual green-cast vintage look in an authentic 12-oz weight counts on relaxed texture and open weave cross hedging. It’s indispensable for the collections of international jeans brands. Tango Tango is oriented towards Japanese denim, in 12-oz and a summery dark blue. Strong irregular threads with ring effects and heritageinspired slubs catch the eye.
Sendai II This is the resurrection of a VICUNHA classic, one of the big favorites from 10 years ago. The 11-oz heritage line is experiencing a brilliant comeback through the use of new technologies, and gives commercial trends just the right twist. Kiroshi Comfortable stretch for men and women is essential. Especially this robust 12-oz line with strong textures in special dark blue indigo. Core Lines The 100% cotton CORE LINES are strong all-round items made for function, with dense textures, and – depending on the wash – a more unobtrusive look. A quieter alternative or the ideal complement to the DENIM REBOOT trend highlights. Summit A sturdy 12-oz classic. This beautiful dark blue 100% indigo is winning fans in Asia, Europe and America.
Ridge With a weight of 11.8-oz, this all-round item is suitable for all washes and product lines. Ridge is especially beloved and purchased in large amounts by the major international verticals. Jackson The 12.75-oz Jackson features close-ups and fine interpretations with fashionable cross hedging. Its wearing comfort makes it an excellent choice for comfortable yet fashionable styles geared towards middle-aged customers. Marvin The 11.5-oz Martin is great for authentic, robust, non-elastic boyfriend jeans, equally beloved by fashionable girls and stylish male teenagers. Core Stretch/Moove Super stretch and power stretch are still essential components. In women's denim, body-hugging sexiness without tightness is essential for both boutique and
Business of Fashion|RTW
mainstream businesses! VICUNHA has developed high degrees of silkiness through satin weaves and the use of fluid twisted threads. Andaluz In a light 8.4-oz weight, specially combed and twisted threads yarns charm with a fine, silky feel. Polyester blends make for excellent recovery, in order to ensure perfect fit over the long term.
Colby Super summer y in a lightweight 8.5-oz, the indigo-blue Colby offers dyeing options that are almost unlimited. Comfort and high stretch-recover y are additional factors.
Duffy Black Black This 8.5-oz satin weave shines with black polyester in weft and warp. Silky, bulky threads provide an extra luxurious sense of wellbeing without any feeling of heaviness.
Danusa Danusa is ver y elastic 9.5-oz and has proven itself internationally as an authentic denim look for the "right jeans," in America, Asia or Europe.
Caprice This 9.8-oz light cotton satin luxuriates in poetic shades of silky soft blue denim in summer colours.
Nicky Nicki is also "real denim" in the area of comfort stretch. Its 9.5oz weight also lends itself to
commercial sales for several washes and style variations. Ready to Dye This cleanly produced BCI cotton is in the pure character and natural white colour of VICUNHA's undyed, clean "ready to dye" items. This "politically correct cotton" meets international standards for environmental protection as well as social responsibility. Lines include 100% cotton varieties as well as spandex blends – sometimes up to 50% on selected comfort variations. Weights range from 230-300 grams per square meter.
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New Horizons
Exclusive Arrow Store opens in Mumbai
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ith the powerful integration of visual identity, quality, fashion and style, Arrow’s standalone store has been opened at the heart of Mumbai at Linking Road. The 4000 sq ft store, occupies two floors of a modern structure that has the interior featuring a subtle blend of contemporary style and mid-century elements. Contemporary furniture, wall panels and framed photographs heighten the sense of a kind of homely hospitality. The store concept is divided into 2 broad sections. The Arrow Formals & Arrow Sport section in the basement is designed for the sophisticated and matured customer with refined taste and seeks exclusivity. The Arrow New York section has a collection for both men and women appealing to the young audience. The store staircase feature the brand’s heritage ads displayed on the walls.The store front is created with a huge façade with the brand symbol ‘A’ prominently displayed on the top panel of the window. The Formal section has a classic and rich design with wooden panelling. The ‘White Shirt Bar’ displays the brand’s range of white shirts. The Arrow New York section has been done in black and white which is modern and edgy, with minimal props giving it a contemporary feel. A Lounge area has been created in the basement, maintaining the sophisticated look of the section. Address: Arrow Store, Shop No 3, Anand Villa, Next to Arya Samaj, Linking road, Santa Cruz, Mumbai. Tel: 022 26611712
Business of Fashion|RTW New Appointments
Yves Saint Laurent
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ering, parent company of Parisian fashion brand Yves Saint Laurent, has announced that Francesca Bellettini will take the reins as the brand’s new chief executive, effective September 1st. Bellettini comes to Yves Saint Laurent from Italian leather goods and ready-to-wear brand Bottega Veneta, also owned by Kering, where she oversaw merchandising, visual display and communications.
Ebay India
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bay India has appointed new managing director, Latif Nathani. He comes with 22 years of experience including a 15 year career at Microsoft and Symantec. He has also served as the CEO of a product strategy consulting firm, led a consumer incubator for Microsoft India (including equity investments in mobile payments), headed Global Product Marketing for Symantec’s Norton business, and cofounded eMemories.com.
H&M collaborates with Isabel Marant
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&M is proud to announce its Autumn / Winter 2013 collaboration with Parisian designer Isabel Marant. With her effortless style, Isabel Marant has created a widely influential and successful take on Paris chic. Mixing urban attitude, boho elegance and rock ‘n’ roll spirit, she delivers a genuine French allure. For H&M, Isabel Marant will create a wardrobe of musthave pieces inspired by her signature style. Available from November 14, 2013, in around 250 stores worldwide and online, the collection will feature clothing and accessories for women and teenagers. Isabel will also, for the first time, create a collection for men.
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Fashion E-commerce
Bombay Shirt Company
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ounded by Akshay & Alex, Bombay Shirt Company is a one of a kind bespoke E-platform that allows customers to call the brand’s tailor home, get measured and design the shirt of their choice, in their own way, thereby offering its customers a personalized shopping experience. Conceived and based in the heart of Bombay, the Bombay Shirt Company has managed to combine bespoke quality tailoring with a large selection of fabrics and pairing contemporary designs with classic cuts for both men and women. The brand also has unique inter face options for both online and offline mediums. For the net savvy, the website hosts an instructional Web Measurement video that takes one through a brief demystification of measuring one’s self, allows instant webcam measurements. For offline measure, the brand has a travelling pop up feature at key spots across the city where the customers can visit to try out the samples, give measurements, feel the fabric and personalize their shirt on the spot. One of its unique feature is the customization option of the customer’s personal stamp and monogram. The brand’s Traveling Tailors visit the customers with fabric swatches, measurements and customization.
New Entry
Dessange Paris opens in Mumbai
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essange Paris, the international salon and spa opened its gates in Mumbai with two signature salon located at Kemps Corner and Bandra. The salon interiors boast of white walls contrasting with soft shades of champagne, large spaces, fine materials such as taffetas, hardwood and marble, buttonpadded sofas and stylish stairs leading to its treatment rooms. The salons in India offer the brand’s product ranges, with hair care, make-up, face and body care formulas.
Business of Fashion|RTW Fashion Acquisitions
Eurovet & Première Vision sign agreement for Acquisition of ‘Fashion’ Shows from Eurovet
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remière Vision S.A., a leading worldwide organiser of trade shows for the fashion industry, and Eurovet SAS, a leading worldwide organiser of trade shows for the lingerie-swimwear sector, have just signed an agreement which will lead to the acquisition by Première Vision of the Eurovet “fashion” shows. This action comprises the fashion manufacturing shows Fatex, Zoom by Fatex, and “Made in France” by Fatex, as well as Tissu Premier and Collections, shows dedicated to fabrics and products positioned around the short term and updating. This represents a group of 8 shows per year, organised in both Paris and Lille (France). Serving textile professionals, Première Vision and Eurovet, particularly due to their respective ownership structures, believe this action will strengthen the sector by making it possible to develop the full potential of the shows involved, which can thus more fully benefit from existing
synergies within Première Vision’s portfolio of trade fairs. With this acquisition, Première Vision brings its portfolio of fashion trade shows from 24 to 32 operations per year in 6 countries, rounding off its existing businesses in yarns and fibres (Expofil), fabrics (Première Vision), textile designs (Indigo) and accessories (Modamont) by an entry in the downstream sector, a business with the potential to provide additional service at its international events. The shows that are being purchased will continue to be run by their current teams, and brought into PV Manufacturing, under the direct management of the Première Vision board of directors. The next shows will take place as scheduled from 17-19 September 2013 at the Parc des Expositions de Paris-Nord Villepinte for Zoom by Fatex, and on 27 and 28 November 2013 at the Lille Grand Palais for Tissu Premier and Collections.
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Corporate Initiatives
INVISTA announces 13 semi-finalists in the LYCRA Future Designers at the WGSN Global Fashion Awards 2013 Indian design talent to be showcased at the global level Shortlist includes one designer from India…
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YCRA brand owner Invista has now announced the 13 semi finalists for LYCRA Future Designers Award which is a part of the WGSN Global Fashion Awards ceremony. As part of the shortlist, one Indian designer Himani Harish, has also been included. Other shortlisted candidates in this year’s edition of LYCRA Future Designers include candidates from seven different countries: Hanna Lucatelli from Brazil; Han Zhongshu, Chow Bohan and Shixuan Zhao, from China; Alejandra Perdomo and Daniela Larrea from Colombia; Alison Vincent, Eva Lai, Irina Lazova and Lucy Gardner from UK; Silvia Silvia from Singapore; and Patty Clariza, from the United States. This year in its 5th edition, the event will offer one outstanding student or graduate designer the chance to work with its expert mentors at Invista and overall consultancy, as well
as will receive fabrics with LYCRA fibre and a package to help with the development of a collection to help kickstart their careers. Denise Sakuma, INVISTA Apparel Global Director of Brand and Communications, said that , “the WGSN Global Fashion Awards offers the perfect international platform for INVISTA to celebrate young up and coming design from across the globe with shortlisted candidates entering from countries such as UK, Colombia, Brazil, India, China, Singapore and the United States,”. The LYCRA Future Designers 2012 was awarded to Shireeka Devlin who graduated from the London College of Fashion last year. This year, the winner will be announced at a star-studded, exclusive gala event at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London on 30th October.
Market: India India Market Focus:
S.Oliver’s India Strategy
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.Oliver, the German fashion and lifestyle company, has restructured its collaborative arrangements in April 2012 to partner with Design Pod for its business in India. Over the last year, the partners have completed far-reaching structural changes within the business and will expand to over 30 point of sales in 2013 in order to raise the brand´s share in the Indian market. The company also plans to introduce the S.Oliver Junior line in October 2013, as part of the expansion plans that will enhance its product portfolio and position S.Oliver as a brand for the whole family. The company will be investing 20 million euros towards its goal of 200 point of sales, of which 2 million euros will be invested into the 30 point of sales that are slated to be open by the end of 2013 itself.
Fashion: Key Events
Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week, S/S 2014
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he Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI) has announced the dates for the 22nd edition of Asia’s biggest fashion trade event, the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2014 (WIFW SS 2014). The fashion gala is scheduled to take place from October 9 to 13, 2013 in New Delhi. The FDCI, the apex body of fashion designers in the country, provides an exclusive platform for idea exchange and trend forecasting for the forthcoming season through this event. Each season of the WIFW promises five days of magnificent creativity, original ideation and spectacular showcasing. With each season witnessing an increase in interest and participation from established and up-coming designers, buyers and affiliates, the WIFW is growing in stature. Announcing the dates for the WIFW SS 2014, Sunil Sethi, President, FDCI said, “We are very excited to announce the dates of the WIFW Spring/Summer 2014. WIFW is a great platform for both leading and up-coming designers to showcase their exquisite collections to domestic and international buyers, media, and fashion connoisseurs. After a very successful Autumn/Winter edition this year, we are looking forward to an even more successful edition of Spring/Summer.” Atul Chand, Divisional Chief Executive, ITC’s Lifestyle Retailing Business Division added, “The Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week is India’s most celebrated and illustrious fashion event. The participation by the Indian fashion fraternity and recognition by the global fashion industry has strengthened this platform over the years amplifying the business of fashion.”
Manish Arora
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Fashion: Key Events
29th World Fashion Convention Shanghai
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he World Fashion Convention, organized by International Apparel Federation (IAF), was held from 23 to 27 September 2013 in Shanghai. The co-organizer of the event was CCCT, the China Chamber of Commerce for Import and Export of Clothing and Textiles. The CCCT has 16,000 members and represents the interests of textile industry and its members and promotes the sustainable development of China’s textile and clothing trade. IAF offered its delegates at this year’s World Fashion Convention, the opportunity to take part in a matchmaking programme to meet potential Chinese business partners. Matchmaking opportunities were offered for both potential producers and with potential buyers/distributors. This year’s convention theme was “How to create value in the global fashion supply chain”. In two days, different speakers from international well known brands touched upon the convention theme. Focus was on Branding and on Marketing in China. Sourcing, Supply chain strategies and innovation featured as well. A strong matchmaking program was available with privileged access for delegates and the convention saw top speakers from different continents and from brands, manufacturers and suppliers, sharing their vision on the industry. The Convention covered both branding and the supply chain, making it unique in the global fashion industry and adding value for executives needing to understand both as well as the connection between them.
Branding & Supply Chain, Key Issues at the Convention Brand Building, an important aspect of apparel will be discussed at the convention. Today, the industry is becoming more successful at reaping the rewards from the very fast rise of the internet sales channel. This is adding to brand value and it is bringing brands closer to the consumer. The challenge is to use this knowledge in the supply chain, to
bring production in line with demand. Brands selling across the world are tweaking their offer to individual markets. While the brand is the same, sometimes the marketing and the product range is slightly different in different markets. – making the US, the European, the Indian, Chinese and Latin American markets differ from one another. With these key issues for discussion, the 29th World Fashion Convention Shanghai will let us hear how successful fashion and other consumer brands manage global marketing with a local touch.
Fashion: Key Events
India Bridal Fashion Week to debut in London next year
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fter hosting in Delhi and Mumbai this year, India Bridal Fashion Week (IBFW) is all set to make an international foray to present the Indian bridal ideas to international audience and to cater to non-resident Indian (NRI) buyers. The event organizer Aamby Valley has selected London to make its international debut next year, while continuing the Mumbai and Delhi editions. After being successfully hosted in Mumbai for the past three years, IBFW was organized in Delhi for the first time this year. Talking to media about IBFW’s international foray, Vijay Singh, MD of Fashion One International, said he believes that Indian fashion will gather good value in foreign markets, especially in London, where there is good market for Indian fashion. India’s top designers including JJ Valaya, Tarun Tahilani, Raghavendra Rathore, Shantanu Nikhil, Falguni and Shane Peacock, Rohit Bal, Suneet Varma, Ashima Leena, Meera Muzaffar Ali, Adarsh Gill, Jyotsana Tiwari and Rina Dhaka showcased the best in luxury fashion – couture and bridal wear -- during the Delhi edition from July 23-28, and then again in Mumbai edition slated to be held in October this year. However, Bollywood’s favourite designer Manish Malhotra would be showing his creations only in Mumbai.
Rohit Bal Popular Bollywood actress Jacqueline Fernandez, who has been named as the brand ambassador for this year’s events, would also be seen walking the ramp at both the Delhi and Mumbai editions. Along with the IBFW, a bridal expo ‘The Bridal Luxury Couture Exposition’ was also held in Delhi featuring 65 designers and creative wedding planners who interacted directly with the customers.
Fashion Initiatives
Krishna Mehta brings the ethereal Manipuri weaving craft to life at Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2013
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ith an attempt to revive the traditional handloom weaving skill in the state, an indispensable aspect of the socio-economic life in Manipur, reputed fashion designer Krishna Mehta collaborated with the Manipur Department of Commerce & Industries for her show at Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2013. The event took place between 23rd-27th August 2013 in Mumbai. The designer showcased a distinctive fusion line that has was especially crafted by weavers in Imphal, the capital city of Manipur, under Krishna’s expert guidance over several months. These garments were in line with the current design trends but seamlessly integrated the ethereal identity of Manipur handloom. Popular for tribal weaves on Loin Loom and cotton and silk saris, Manipur Handloom has rarely been used so comprehensively by any designer in the past. Influences from Myanmar and Bangladesh were also be evident on these garments as Manipur sits comfortably on their borders. These especially crafted clothes have been designed and made from Manipur handloom products and were showcased during Indian Textile Day at Lakmé Fashion Week. The Manipur Handloom industry comprises of 4.62
lakh handloom workers* of which almost 100% weavers are women and a large number of weavers are self-earners. In a thriving ecosystem such as this, the local industry is sure to get immense socio-economic boost through this exclusive association with Lakmé Fashion Week. A state with a thriving handloom industry, Manipur has a legacy of unrivalled craftsmanship that will be beautifully brought to life on one of India’s premier fashion weeks.
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Fashion Acclaim
The Woolmark Prize chooses its five finalists: Rahul
Mishra is the Chosen one from India
Rahul Mishra was announced as the winner of the India and Middle East selection for the 2013/14 International Woolmark Prize...
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ahul Mishra was announced as the winner of the India and Middle East selection for the 2013/14 International Woolmark Prize. Rahul Mishra is known for his contribution to Indian handlooms, is continuously working on empowering and employing the Indian Craft Community through his sustainable design interventions. The brand’s philosophy revolves around integrating the rich heritage of Indian craft with the constantly varying pulse of global fashion. Mishra became the first non-European designer to win the prestigious scholarship at the Istituto Marangoni, Milan, and in 2009 he featured in the list of the top 20 young Indians who would shape India’s future for VISION-INDIA 2020. Rahul won a cash prize of Australian dollars 50,000 to stage a fashion show at an international fashion week of his choice. He will also represent the region at the International Woolmark Prize global final where he will compete with other young designers for a cash prize of A$100,000 and the opportunity to commercialise their business through a series of international retailer partners aligned to the award. The competition draws on the best talent from across the globe and finals will be held at Milan Fashion week in February 2014. An expert jury chose Mishra from a group of designers from India, Pakistan and the Middle East. The judges were the President of the Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI), Sunil Sethi, Australian fashion icon and founder of Australian Fashion Week, Simon Lock, Global Strategic Adviser of Woolmark Australia, Peter Ackroyd, Indian fashion designer, Manish Arora, and Founder and Editor of The Business of Fashion, Imran Amed. The Australian Wool Industry has funded many designer support programs dating back to the illustrious International Wool Secretariat design award of the 1950s. It was at the 1954 awards that two young, unknown women’s wear designers, Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent, stepped up onto a stage to accept their
respective fashion design prizes. Lagerfeld, then 21, was the winner of the coat category. Saint Laurent, at a mere 18 years old, won the award for dress design, judged by a panel which included Hubert de Givenchy and Pierre Balmain. Besides Rahul Mishra from India, the remaining four finalists who will compete for the 2013/14 International Woolmark Prize have also been announced. fiXXed from Asia, Christopher Esber from Australia, Sibling from Europe and the USA’s Altuzarra will each present a minicapsule collection to a panel of judges in February 2013, at an awards ceremony held on the Milan Fashion Week schedule. The prize offers not only showing on the Milan Fashion Week schedule but also having a mini-capsule collection made commercially available in some of the world’s leading retailers. The eventual winner will not only collect a $100,000 cash prize but will have the opportunity to be stocked in the most important retailers of the world including Harvey Nichols – London, Saks Fifth Avenue - NY, 10 Corso Como – Milan, Joyce – China, David Jones – Sydney and My Theresa – Germany and online.
Business of Fashion|RTW
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T Prada’s “The Great Fashion Initiatives
Gatsby” Exhibition
Costumes designed by Miuccia Prada and Catherine Martin for Baz Luhrmann’s ‘The Great Gatsby’, on display in Tokyo...
he travelling exhibition of selected costumes designed by Miuccia Prada and costume designer Catherine Martin for Baz Luhrmann’s film adaptation of The Great Gatsby was on display June 14 – 30, 2013 at the Prada Epicenter in Tokyo Aoyama. The exhibition opening coincided with the Japanese première of the movie. The exhibition - titled Catherine Martin and Miuccia Prada Dress Gatsby - was curated by New York studio 2x4 and included women’s gowns, dresses, hats, shoes and jewelry as well as sketches, production stills, backstage footage and film trailers. The show reflected the unique characteristics of each location. In Tokyo, the display and mannequins were designed to fit into the unique interior of the Herzog & de Meuron-designed interior. The display included full scale, full body portraits of many of the actresses in costume and character sketches drawn from Catherine Martin’s extensive research.
Business of Fashion|RTW Art Initiatives
Curate: Qatar Museums Authority and Fondazione Prada global curating prize open for entry
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urate, a global competition organized by Qatar Museums Authority and Fondazione Prada to find new curating talent is accepting entries online on www.curateaward.org until 31 December 2013. Curate opens up and challenges people’s ideas of what an exhibition can be. It will provide one winner with the unprecedented opportunity to curate the exhibition of their dreams. A world-renowned Jury will judge ideas on their creativity and social significance, rewarding those with a contemporary and culturally relevant point of view. They will be looking for an exemplary exhibition that is both far-sighted and critical to the future. Participation in the competition is not limited to aspiring or established curators, but is open to
anyone with a great concept for creative expression, with the emphasis on encouraging young people to compete, whether as individuals or as collaborative groups. Twenty finalists will be selected by the Jury, and will be showcased on the Curate website. The winner will be announced in Spring 2014. The Jury is: Her Excellency Sheikha Al Mayassa bint Hamad Al-Thani, Chairperson, Qatar Museums Authority; Miuccia Prada, President, Fondazione Prada; Rem Koolhaas, architect, urban theorist, OMA/AMO founder; Nadine Labaki, Lebanese film-maker and actress; Nawal El Moutawakel, the first woman from a Muslim majority Country to win an Olympic gold medal; and Hans Ulrich Obrist, co-director, Serpentine Gallery, London.
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Design: Key Events
Maison & Objet Asia The MAISON&OBJET concept finds a home in Singapore…
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AISON&OBJET is one of today’s largest international gatherings of decor and design professionals. With its unique positioning as a springboard, the show replicates itself internationally in the introduction of MAISON&OBJET ASIA 10-13 March 2014. This new annual event for professionals, held in conjunction with other major events in the furnishings field and showcased in Singapore’s prestigious Marina Bay Sands Resort, is a first step in the show’s international development strategy targeting markets with high growth potential.
The choice of Singapore An important reason for the choice of Singapore as a venue was the free-trade agreement signed in December 2012 between the European Union and the Government of Singapore. Ranked as one of the world’s ten most fashionable destinations, Singapore is a business platform centrally located in the ASEAN free-trade area, which encompasses 600 million inhabitants and has seen uninterrupted growth of over 5.5 % annually since 2003. Regarded as Southeast Asia’s capital of home fashion, Singapore is a creative centre and a gateway to new urban consumers. More than 150 exhibitors representing the product families and decor concepts found at MAISON&OBJET PARIS will come together to embody this level of quality and attract an audience of top-notch prescribers and distributors. Selected on the basis of range quality, brand awareness, regional sales presence and stand staging, these participants will display in the Asian setting of Marina Bay Center, as its convention/exhibition hub.
New Openings
H&M to open their largest store in New York’s Herald Square
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wedish retailing giant H&M will open in Herald Square in New York City, right in front of Macy’s in Autumn 2014. With approximately 63000 sq ft., the The four-floor store will offer more than any other location including women’s, men’s, sport, maternity, plus sizes, accessories, cosmetics, children’s and home. The expansion comes on the heels of several other aggressive moves in the U.S. this year. It was announced in March that the chain would be opening 10 new stores in Honolulu, Washington, Chicago and New Orleans. The newest location at Herald Center will however become the world largest H&M location stealing the title from the 57,000-square-foot Fifth Avenue and 48th street store. H & M also plans to open another store in Times Square by the end of the year. The retailer said that the three new stores in Manhattan will occupy a total of 900 employees.
Design: Key Events
Paris Design Week Offering free exhibitions and festive evenings throughout Paris, this 100% international design event for the general public was held from 9 to 15 September for French and international professionals attending Maison & Objet…
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rom Design to Interior architecture, Paris Design Week is a true showcase for the new French and international design scene. Nearly 100 talented designers, editors, design schools and institutions presented their creations through exhibits and events. The event proved the vitality of the design sector by promoting ultra-dynamic avantgarde designers. Revealing new talents, the event continues to make a difference as this ambition is passed on by the birth of the Fédération Française de Design at the Carrousel du Louvre, and by the wealth of partnering events, such as Révélations at the Grand Palais, the window displays dedicated to design at Lafayette Maison or even the Lost In Paris exhibition at Le Lieu du Design. These special events highlight the link between design and arts and crafts, decoration and fashion. The event also reminds us that design impacts everything and everyone and that in Paris,
more than anywhere else, it takes on the colours of the art of living. In the city and its inner suburbs, 236 participants in 150 venues opened their doors to illustrate this impact. Institutions, studios, workshops, galleries, stores, markets, hotels and restaurants outlined even creativity journeys that show the involvement of design in our daily life.
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St. Moritz Art Masters 2013
ST. MORITZ ART MASTERS was staged in the
Engadin for the 6th time from 23 August to 1 September 2013, This year’s country focus was on China…
Kerim Seiler
For the past six years in late summer ST. MORITZ ART MASTERS has transformed the entire Upper Engadin for ten days into an international meeting point for art and art enthusiasts. The event traditionally unites the most diverse platforms: every year galleries, institutions, curated special exhibitions, artist talks and workshops are the cornerstones of the art and culture festival…
De-Maofication Conceived by Monty Shadow and curated by Reiner Opoku, The ST. MORITZ ART MASTERS took place for the 6th time, for ten days, as a prestigious art festival against the backdrop of the worldwide unique scenery of St. Moritz and the Engadin. Hosting a calendar of over 30 events including exhibitions, screenings and talks with the major names in photography, time and again the Engadin has attracted, inspired and entranced photographers, artists, writers, and filmmakers. The event has been taking up this tradition and has been standing for a combination of strong local ties and international exchange.
Focus on China
The 6th edition of the St. Moritz Art Masters put special emphasis on the people’s Republic of China. Some might criticize that it is almost too late for such a focus, since the great boom of contemporary art from China is already a thing of the past. The easily bored caravan of global art tourists has since moved on. To Poland, Brazil, India or whatever the next “flavour of the week” might be. As per the organizers, this was precisely why it was the right time to finally take a serious look at the art scene of this enormous country, which has remained an enigma for most Western art enthusiasts. Far removed from all the clichés and
Art & Design|RTW
Lead image St. Moritz Art Masters 2013
Kool (Snowy Owl)
Liu Wei preconceptions that actually date back to the Cultural Revolution and the period immediately following, the sensitively and intelligently curated group exhibitions and carefully selected solo presentations and special projects by emerging artists and internationally acclaimed art personalities from China offer exciting insights into a faraway world, which many of us thought we already knew.
A Dialogue with International Photography One of the most eagerly awaited events was Emotional Stories, curated by Amedeo M. Turello, demonstrating on how photography has become a narration of
daily life moments and the depiction of emotions. The exhibition also hosted the works by Lui Heung Shing (born in 1951), the photojournalist winner of the Pulitzer Prize who stood out for documenting the Chinese development from the Cultural Revolution up to now, and drew a comparison between his vision and the works of undeniable masters of international photography such as Patrick Demarchelier, Bruno Ehrs, Hans Georg Esch, Mimmo Jodice, Peter Lindbergh, Steve McCurry, Joel Meyerowitz and Paolo Solari Bozzi. Another event was the exhibition dedicated to the work of Chen Fuli, a fashion photographer born in 1916 in
the Guangdong province who sought, throughout his life, to combine the aesthetics of the century-old Chinese painting with photography, an inclination that can be seen in his depictions of Hong Kong. A workshop was held on 30th and 31st of August, where one could see the artists at work, delving into the topics concerning portray, pictorial and fashion photography. The participants had an opportunity to engage directly with Amedeo M. Turello and other acclaimed photographers. The focus was on widening the perspectives with regard to the camera and use it as a tool to incubate real life, aesthetics and emotions.
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Fang Lijun
Liu Heung Shing
Wang Haichuan
Artists from China
From new talents living and working in the tradition-steeped academy city of Chongqing in Sichuan Province in the southwest of China and award-winning artists such as Ai Weiwei, Fang Lijun and the photojournalist Liu Heung Shing to the imaginative, painting-inspired photoworks of Chen Fuli – visitors to SAM 2013 were granted a multifaceted and unadulterated view of contemporary art and the rapidly changing society in the new China of today and tomorrow. The event’s comprehensive art programme that focused on China; is briefly mentioned below. The renowned collector and pioneer of the Chinese art scene, Dr Uli Sigg, curated
the exhibition with works by the artists NI Youyu, XUE Feng, LI Zhenwei, LIU Wie and LI Xi, showing recent positions from his worldfamous collection. St.Moritz Art Masters also presented two “heavyweights” of contemporary Chinese art: Ai Weiwei, the artist and activist, and the painter Fang Lijun. In addition, works by the Chinese painter and sculptor Shao Fan and photographs by the artist Chen Fuli were also on show. The oeuvre of the latter took a poetical look at the cultural heritage of his country. Also young Chinese artists from the Sichuan Province presented in co-operation with the Swiss art network, Artalliance and Organhaus Art Space, an independent organisation of artists in Chongqing. This group of artists
Patrick Demarchelier Gemma Ward
Patrick Demarchelier provided a unique perspective on a decentralised view far from the centres of political and economic power in China. The photography exhibition of the Chinese Pulitzer prize-winner Liu Heung Shing explored the journalistic development of photography in China from the Cultural Revolution to the present day. It was complemented by works of international stars of photography such as Patrick Demarchelier and Peter Lindbergh. What made this year’s edition of ST. MORITZ ART MASTERS special was the building of bridges between East and West and the combination of an international outlook and local roots. Workshops with artists, talks and discussions introduced visitors to China with its rich cultural
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LIST OF ARTISTS
Jan Fabre
Shaolin Monks Training diversity and enabled them to approach and engage with artistic trends and developments. ST. MORITZ ART MASTERS was staged in unusual places as well as in institutions, galleries and hotels. A number of other artistic contributions reflected an international outlook and local rootedness. The legendary multi-media-artist Robert Wilson from USA, transformed the interior of the French Church with his eerie Snowy Owl video installation, and the painter and sculptor Donald Baechler. The Belgian Biennale participant, Jan Fabre, the sculptor, Hubert Kiecol from Cologne, the Swiss artist, Olaf Breuning, and the French artist, Sébastien de Ganay,
made a strong impact with their works. Visitors also encountered text sculptures, works in concrete, steel or bronze on their walks through St. Moritz, Zuoz and Sils. The socalled WALK OF ART linked around 30 sites in and around St. Moritz this year. A further highlight of this year’s festival was the contribution of the German Biennale artist, Tobias Rehberger, who has created the lead image for ST. MORITZ ART MASTERS 2013. In his image, Rehberger explores the boundaries and transitions between art and design. The motif for the festival is an abstract interpretation of the Corvatsch mountain range, contrasting in its almost naive representation the beauty of the mountains with their elemental power.
1. Jungjin Lee, Andrea Robbi Museum 2. Rune Guneriussen, Hotel Waldhaus 3. Donald Baechler, Badrutt’s Palace Hotel 4. Olaf Breuning, Pedestrain Zone & Church San Luzi Garden 5. Kerim Seiler, Crystal Hotel 6. Ai Weiwei, Protestant Church 7. Sigg Collection – Liu Wei, Ni Youyu, Li Xi, Li Zhenwei, Gym 8. Fang Lijun, Badrutt’s Palace Hotel 9. Shao Fan, Palace Galerie 10. Shi Jinsong, Galerie Chirstophe Graber 11. Zhou Tiehai, Galerie Karsten Greve 12. Gallery Artists. Galerie Andrea Caratsch 13. Sebastien De Ganay, Kulm Hotel, Chesa al Parc 14. Kueng Gaputo, Schlossereiwerkstatt 14.1 Rolf Sachs, Schlossereiwerkstatt 14.2 Sebastien De Ganay, Schlossereiwerkstatt 15. Piero del Bondio, Château Papillon des Artes 16. Su-Mei Tse, Posthaus St. Moritz 17. Tchan Fau-li (Chen Fuli) Emotional Stories, Hotel Suvretta House 18. Jan Fabre, Engadiner Museum 19. Robert Wilson, French Church 20. Paul THek, French Church 21. Photo Exhibition – Emotional Stories, Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains 21.1 Patrick Demarchelier, Emotional Stories, Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains 21.2 Bruni Ehrs - Emotional Stories, Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains 21.3 Joel Meyerowitz - Emotional Stories, Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains 21.4 Hans-Georg Esch - Emotional Stories, Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains 21.5 Mimmo Jodice - Emotional Stories, Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains 21.6 Paolo Solari Bozzi - Emotional Stories, Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains 21.7 Evgenia Arbugaeva - Emotional Stories, Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains 21.8 Gregor Schlierenzauer - Emotional Stories, Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains 22. Liu Heung Shing - Emotional Stories, Kempinski Grand Hotel des Bains 23. L’arte al cinema, Chesa Colani 24. A Collective from Sichuan , Chesa Planta 25. Hubert Kiecol, St. Moritz 26. David Cerny, Zuoz 27. Claudia Losi, Galerie Monica de Cardenas 28. Nicolas Party, Hotel Castell 29. Enzo Cucchi, Villa Flor 30. Imi Knoebel, Galerie von Bartha 31. Peter Vann, Galerie Peter Vann 32. Middle, Fundaziun Not Vital 33. Fundaziun Nairs, Nairs 34. Arte Hotel Bregaglia, Hotel Bregaglia 35. Tobias Rehberger, Lead Image 36. Steve McCurry – Emotional Stories, Hotel Nira Alpina
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The Guild Art Gallery
Barbed Floss:
The Guild Art Gallery, Mumbai turned its spotlight on Bangladesh with a group show featuring new works by five artists from the country.
Leap Across Time
Curated by Veeranganakumari Solanki, the exhibition, titled “Barbed Floss” included works by Tayeba Begum Lipi, Mahbubur Rahman, Promotesh Das Pulak, Molla Sagar and Anisuzzaman Sohel….
Pulak Das The exhibition opened on 31 July and will be open until 30 September 2013 and marked the first time of these artists showing together under this conceptual framework in Mumbai. According to Veerangana Solanki, the exhibition is a narration on the issues of borders, exchange, displacement and relationships with regard to the geopolitics at play between neighbouring countries. In her curatorial note, Solanki mentions that, “Borders on land are made up of barbed wire fencing and high walls, extreme military security, extreme emotional
insecurity. The word floss behaves as a thorough cleanser with a fine thread, which removes, cleanses and frees blockages. ‘Barbed Floss’ conjures the anti-thesis of these two aspects, contradicting and creating new notions associated with these two terms. The border between India and Bangladesh has a 3,406 km. barbed wire fence that was recently completed to prevent immigration. These borders between countries are implied by and to people where issues of understanding, conversation and
Art & Design|RTW
Tayeba Begum Lipi
Mahbubur Rahman Pocket migration are discussed in view of relationships, nature, exchange and employment. The river water changes territory, and the waters drift through undisputed; raw elements pass in and out while the barbed winds floss the skies overhead. The works in this exhibition are homage to the resonating hollow cry beyond politics, beyond countries, beyond continents; across borders and over wires into freedom, peace and harmony to floss homes, families, oceans, fields, land and skies‌�
The Artists
Tayeba Begum Lipi, 44 yrs old, completed her MFA from the Institute of Fine Arts at the University of Dhaka. She has exhibited her works widely in Bangladesh as well as internationally in several renowned institutes. Her works are held in the collection of well-known collections internationally, including the Guggenheim Museum. Lipi is a trustee and co-founder of the Britto Arts Trust. She has also curated exhibitions and was the commissioner of the Bangladesh Pavilion at the 54th Venice Biennale. She has participated in many residencies around the world and has also participated and conducted a number of workshops.
Molla Sagar She currently lives and works in Dhaka. Mahbubur Rahman, 44 yrs old, completed his MFA in Drawing and Painting from the Institute of Fine Arts at the University of Dhaka. His works and performances have been widely exhibited in solo exhibitions and group shows in Bangladesh as well as internationally in several renowned museums and institutes; as well as at the Bangladesh pavilion at the 54th Venice Biennale. His works are held in the collection of well-known collections internationally, including the Fukuoka Museum, Japan. He is a co-founder and trustee of the Britto Arts Trust and has participated and conducted many workshops as well as curated exhibitions. Rahman is one of the curators for the 2014 Dhaka Art Summit. He currently lives and works in Dhaka. Promotesh Das Pulak, 33 yrs old, completed his BFA and MFA from the Faculty of Fine Arts at the University of Dhaka in Bangladesh. He is a member of the Britto Arts trust and has exhibited his work in several shows in Dhaka as well as internationally. Pulak was also represented at the Bangladesh Pavilion at the 54th Venice Biennale; and has participated in several art workshops. Pulak lives and works in Dhaka. Molla Sagar, 35 yrs old, an artist and documentary film maker and cinematographer, who works with the mediums of video, photography and new-media. He has exhibited his works in solo and group shows internationally and his films have been screened at several international festivals and exhibitions. Molla Sagar currently lives and works in Dhaka. Anisuzzaman Sohel, 40 yrs old, completed his BFA from the Faculty of Fine Arts at the University of Dhaka. His works have been exhibited widely in Dhaka and he has been a part of several group shows internationally, including Britto, Kunstvlaai in Amsterdam (2012). He has participated in several workshops and is currently based and working in Dhaka. The Guild Art Gallery is located at 02/32, Kamal Mansion, 2nd floor, Arthur Bunder Road, Colaba, Mumbai, India.
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Trieste, Italy
International Talent Support The design competition conceived and developed by the EVE agency, launched the new ITS 2013 edition, presented by OTB. On 12 & 13 July 2013, the final event of the design international contest in the fields of fashion, accessories and jewellery, devoted to scouting and supporting young creative talents from all over the world, was held in Trieste‌
The ITS 2013 Location
The 2013 Edition With the communication concept of ITS 2013 rooted in science, the ITS family hosted a selection among the most cosmopolitan ever.
to assess the results of the ITS research, with the long time companions DIESEL, YKK and SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS and together with the new entries SWATCH, EYES ON TALENTS and YOOX.COM.
Directors and representatives of prestigious schools, fashion insiders, alongside with magazines and newspapers from 12 countries were in Trieste
The finalists of the three areas, ITS FASHION, ITS ACCESSORIES and ITS JEWELRY submitted 30 projects, 10 for each competition area, to an authoritative judging panel. The ITS 2013 Fashion Show Backstage
The ITS 2013 Trophy
Transparent Projection Wall by Heliv
JURY MEMBERS AND PRIZES ITS FASHION – Main Partner Diesel:
ITS ACCESSORIES – Main Partner YKK
The finalists of ITS FASHION were examined by:
• Elisabetta Barracchia (Vogue Accessori / Vogue Gioiello),
• Imran Amed (Business of Fashion, a key blog for trendsetters),
• Antonella Bertagnin (Coordinator of the Trend Selection Fashion Committee – LineaPelle), Sara De Tullio (Head of Trend & Design dept. of Alcantara),
• Lapo Cianchi (communication, special projects and international relation Director, Pitti Immagine), • Laurent Cotta (in charge of contemporary design at the Musée Galliera in Paris), • Floriane de Saint Pierre (Founder & Head of FSPSA and influential head-hunter), • Deanna Ferretti (Maglificio Miss Deanna – Modateca),
• Barbara Franchin (ITS Director & Project Supervisor), • Marco Grandi (Sales Manager of YKK Italia), • Kei Kagami (Designer & YKK Consultant),
• Nicola Formichetti (Diesel’s Artistic Director),
• Valentina Maggi (Director of Design Practice at Floriane de Saint Pierre et Associés), Yasuhiro Mihara (Footwear Designer for Puma),
• Barbara Franchin (ITS Director & Project Supervisor)
• Ana Rajcevic (winner of Accessories Collection of the Year in 2012),
• Harold Koda (Curator-in-Charge of the Costume Institute at the Metropolitan Museum - New York),
• Isabella Zegrini (Christian Dior Haute Couture Accessories)
• Sara Maino (Senior Editor Vogue Italia / Vogue.it), • Ivana Omazic (Maison Martin Margiela) • Anna Orsini (Strategic Consultant at British Fashion Council),
ITS JEWELRY - Main Partner SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS • Carlo Giordanetti (Creative Director of SWATCH),
• Alessandra Rossi (Commercial Director Multi-Brand - YOOX Group),
• Mawi Keivom (from the brand Mawi),
• Renzo Rosso (President of OTB, backing the ITS project since its debut),
• Shourouk Rhaiem (from the brand Shourouk),
• Carla Sozzani (Galleria Carla Sozzani / 10 Corso Como),
• Yassen Samouilov & Livia Stoianova (On Aura Tout Vu),
• Marie Schuller (Head of Fashion Film at SHOWStudio),
• Ute Schumacher (Vice President Trend & Design Center Head Office SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS).
• Ichiro Suzuki (winner of Fashion Collection of The Year in 2012).
The ITS 2013 Fashion Show moment
RTW|Fashion Shows & Trade Fairs
Han Chul Lee collection ITS 2013
Ichiro Suzuki delivers the award to Hanchul Lee
THE WINNERS ITS FASHION
ITS ACCESSORIES
• FASHION COLLECTION OF THE YEAR - Han Chul Lee, South Korean, Royal College of Art
• ACCESSORIES COLLECTION OF THE YEAR - Leonard Kahlcke, German, London College of Fashion
• DIESEL AWARD - Xiao Li, Chinese, Royal College of Art • FASHION SPECIAL PRIZE Tomohiro Sato, Japanese, Coconogacco • YOOX.COM AWARD - Nelly Hoffmann, French, Ecole de la Chambre Syndacale de la Couture Parisienne • VOGUE TALENTS AWARD - Han Chul Lee, South Korean, Royal College of Art
• YKK AWARD - Percy Lau, Chinese, Central St. Martins College of Art and Design • EYES ON TALENTS - Cat Potter, British, Cordwainers at London College of Fashion • VOGUE TALENTS AWARD Youngwon Kim, South Korean, London College of Fashion
ITS JEWELRY
• MODATECA AWARD Tomohiro Sato, Japanese, Coconogacco
• SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS JEWELRY AWARD - Lili Colley, British, London College of Fashion
• BUSINESS OF FASHION AWARD - Felix Chabluk Smith, British, Royal College of Art
• SWATCH AWARD - Milko Boyarov, Bulgarian, National Art Academy Sofia Keren Yaar collection ITS2013
Photo Credit: Daniele Braida, Gianmaria Gava, Giovanni Giannoni, Giuliano Koren, ITS 2013
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ITS Trends Report 2013 We have been researching creativity and we always have two objectives on our mind: on the one hand our attention focuses on spotting the new generation, on the other we aim at detecting any signal arriving from the world of creativity... We do our best to read between the lines and like gold miners we look for every single speck of gold. The result we wish to achieve is a snap-shot free from the structures of conventional thinking, able to capture universal and transversal feelings tracing, if possible and if present, a common will and desire. A connecting thread that goes from Argentina to Zimbabwe passing through Australia, Belarus, China and joining Indonesia to Alaska, Japan to Iceland, South Africa to Malaysia. Thus different cultural realities that convey and rework the same message by giving their own personal interpretation are mixed together, without necessarily losing their identity. In a globalised world the message is clear: the same interrogatives seem to be puzzling creatives all over the world. Each one of them gives their own personal answer. Sometimes the reactions from people both physically and culturally far apart can be shockingly close.
ITS 2013 Accessories Finalist VAIBHAV SINGH FROM INDIA Ornaments of a Warrior Vaibhav Singh’s accessories collection for ITS 2013 is inspired by the world of wars, warriors and weapons; taking inputs from the different parts of the world where a huge variety of weapons were used during the medieval period. Used as a concept, Vaibhav offers some innovative
prototypes.
What follows is not intended to be an exhaustive analysis of the trends we have observed... We do not want to appear neither dogmatic nor conceited since neither feature belongs to us. We definitely write down more than what we analyse in detail and it is always our own personal point of view, partial by definition and perhaps even naive. But it surely is a point of view based on a twenty-year experience, always willing to listen to other opinions. Furthermore we would like to underline that the images we used were not chosen on the basis of an evaluation of merit, but because they clearly visualise the trends we have detected. Many other collections referred to the same trends, though not presenting images that could be used in this report.
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ITS TREND REPORT: Colours
Dr. Takahiro Ueno
Dr. Yun Chin Hsu
Dr. Takahiro Ueno
Red
Vaibhav Singh
With an etymology that goes back to the sanskrit Rudhira for blood, red is the most visible colour in our spectrum and has been used by man for millennia. Together with black, it was the first colour used by prehistoric man in primordial art since it was easily obtained in nature from rocks, soil, plants and from crushing specific berries. It carries along a huge variety of symbolisms: energy (it obviously refers to the sun), extraversion and will, strong passionate nature and belief in one’s self. Love, sexuality and sensuality but also anger, embarrassment and danger. We have seen it used transversally without distinction in fashion, accessories and jewelry collections, often as the only colour.
Fashion Shows & Trade Fairs|RTW
Dr. Anabela Chan
Dr. Ichiro Suzuki Dr. Marie Cabirou
Blue
Mark Goldenberg
Equally noticeable is blue. It crosses human history much later as a dyeing for fabric. The first blue pigments were made using minerals like lapis lazuli. Import of this mineral was very expensive (most of lapis lazuli, for over 3,000 years, came from mines in Afghanistan) and therefore its use was exclusive to the rich and powerful. Blue was considered a protective colour for the dead in ancient Egypt. It was used as the colour for the objects that the dead would carry in the afterlife as well as to dye the mummification gauzes. In the 15th century blue experiences an explosion both as the colour of the working class outfit and for the nobles’ and emperors’ clothes. That was because indigo was imported from India, produced at a cheap price from a widespread bush in Asia. The armed forces (think of “navy blue”), working class, rulers...blue turns into a democratic colour. The strongest among “cold” colours it is a symbol of harmony, stability and balance.
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Niels Peeraer
Dr. Polina Yakobson
Jin Lee 2
Red and Blue Anabela Chan
We have often seen blue combined with red and no other interfering colour. We can certainly say there is a strong juxtaposition of the two.
Fashion Shows & Trade Fairs|RTW
12 Max
Dr. Han Chul Lee Kirsty Ward
Black White Grey
Emma Montague
Just as last year, we observed black and white which have not disappeared and are still among the designers’ preferences. It looks as if black against white, just as red and blue together, highlight an underlying trend we spotted in a great number of projects: the juxtaposition of extremes. We end our survey with a note on grey, spotted several times in the contestants’ projects. Historically it would recall the colour of untreated wool and for this reason it often symbolised the clothes of poor people or of friars (Franciscan friars in England were called “grey friars”). Neither cold nor warm, neither material nor spiritual, it is a colour without personality and thus adapts itself to any other colour. Since the Industrial Revolution it is also the colour of progress (not necessarily positive), of concrete in modern cities, of smoke from factory pipes. The absolute modern colour.
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Takahiro Ueno
Jin Lee
Takahiro Ueno
Floral and Mimetic
Jin-Lee
If we draw our attention to prints, we often noticed two main trends applied using the colours described above. The floral element first of all. Flowers and plants were largely featured both in contestants’ prints and inspiration moodboards. The reference to nature is obvious but is there again some kind of contrast to point out? Because once again it appeared to us that floral prints were used to recall a past age (the imperial courts’ brocades, romantic chivalry, biology catalogues from the 19th century) juxtaposed to modern shapes, as if to underline a duality among classicism and modernity. The other trend we noted in prints was the use of camo patterns. These were never abandoned by young designers though certainly stronger this year. It is an alternative camo pattern, not based on the classical green tones but happily influenced by this year’s colour palette.
Fashion Shows & Trade Fairs|RTW
Dr. Melissanthi Spei
Yong Kyun Andrea Cammarosano
Protection and Medieval
Vaibhav Singh
The need for protection appears to have influenced the shapes of the fashion contestants’ collections. Techno-sporty pads on the hips, modern armours inspired by Eastern and Western tradition. Wooden structures protecting the shoulders, tops that remind of iron-plated shirts of knights and samurais. A medieval influence on shapes also seems to be closely connected to the theme of protection. We have noticed typical armour shapes creating protective superstructures over the clothes as well as hoods and shawls reminding us of the same historical period. Moreover, medieval was also often juxtaposed to modernity, once again highlighting duality.
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Milko Boyarov
Yuanzi Wang Tomohiro Sato
Constriction and Covered Faces
Ana Rajcevic
Two strong and returning themes (we had already encountered them in the past during particular historical moments of war and instability) are constrictions and covered faces. Bondage techniques but also stylised fabric cages that block movements. Masks to transform faces and often to hide them entirely as if to underline the need to avoid seeing or be seen. Are we again facing an age in which young people do not want to choose among equally appealing extremes? Or is it again the fear of the future, of not wanting to think/see what will come, of being unable to move/decide?
Fashion Shows & Trade Fairs|RTW
Niran Avisar
Alice Knack Momoko Okusa
Post-Man
Shaun Samson
For quite some time we have been observing another phenomenon in constant evolution, gradually outlining a new kind of man, an androgyny which we could define as post-man. It’s a man that has taken a step forward in the direction of a sexual (and genetic, too) unification. This is not about feminizing man, this is more about an actual third sex that questions clothing standards as we know them. It starts from a simplified basic male body and opens up a new gender.
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Milan, Italy
Milano Unica: A confirmation on the importance for the Italian Fashion System
Mr. Silvio Albini, President of Milano Unica
Milano Unica, the Italian Textile Trade Show, with nearly 435 exhibitors, 75% of which are European, featuring textiles and accessories, is gearing up for its forthcoming Milano Unica China edition that will commence from 21 to 24 October 2013 in Shanghai… This specialized Italian textile trade show has proved to be an important event not just for sector operators but also for the entire fashion system, in Italy and worldwide. The inauguration of the XVII edition of the Italian Textile Trade Show, which include speeches by Mr. Silvio Albini, President of Milano Unica, Ms. Cristina Tajani, Milan City Councilwoman for Fashion and Design, Ms. Angela Missoni, Missoni’s Art Director, Mr. Claudio Marenzi, President of Sistema Moda Italia and Mr. Carlo Calenda, Deputy Minister of Economic Development, is attended by a host of representatives, administrators and stylists of prominent luxury apparel brands from
Italy and abroad, as well as many Fashion System operators. The Milan-based Italian and European high end textiles and accessories trade show is visited by more than 22,000 people, every edition. With a growth in the number of both visitors and companies over the years, the significant increases, in terms of both percentage and numbers, were registered by the following countries: Great Britain (+69%), Belgium (+31%), USA (+28%), the Russian Federation (+26%), Sweden (+25%), South Korea (+22%), France (+21%), China (+14%) and Japan (+4%). Important signals that the Italian textile sector is bouncing back, can be seen by
the presence of buyers from new markets, like China. If we look more closely at China, we find that 62.2% of Italian export of China is comprised of woollen fabrics, mainly worsteds. While, Italy imports 25.9% of fabrics from China. Combined export to China – Hong Kong is second only to Germany. Fully aware of the fact that the Chinese market, rich and complex and offering multiple opportunities, must be faced with a long-term outlook, Milano Unica in 2012, signed a memorandum of intent with Messe Frankfurt and CCPIT TEX, the Chinese association of textile and apparel
Fashion Shows & Trade Fairs|RTW Italian Textile Industry in 2013
Mr. Silvio Albini with Mr. Carlo Calenda, Deputy Minister of Economic Development
Mr. Claudio Marenzi, President of Sistema Moda Italia, SMI
The Italian textile industry (comprised of woollen, cotton, linen, silky and knitted fabrics) registered a turnover of nearly 8 billion euros in 2012. The woollen sector remains the primary division accounting for nearly 38.1% of sector turnover. Textiles in the Italian Textile-Fashion Production Chain (2012) (% of turnover)
Textile-Fashion Prod. Chain (84,4%) Weaving (15,6%)
Source: SMI
companies, for the organization of Milano Unica Cina, as part of the editions of Intertextile in Beijing (March) and Shanghai (October). The parties have committed themselves to extending this partnership until the Spring of 2015. The agreement was signed by the President of Milano Unica, Silvio Albini, the executive Vice President of CCPIT TEX, Xu Yingxin, and a member of the Executive Committee of Messe Frankfurt, Detlef Braun. As per Mr. Massimo Mosiello, General Director of Milano Unica, “The bottom line of a trade show undoubtedly consists
Linen fabrics (3,6%)
Silky fabrics (16,8%)
Cotton fabrics (23,8%)
Knitted fabrics (17,9%)
Woolen fabrics (38,1%)
of the numbers of visitors and their provenance, but an important role is also played by the overall results in terms of image and satisfaction on the part of the exhibitors. Milano Unica’s recent editions have shown us that, to paraphrase a great leader of a country that is strategic for us, such as China, to win you always have to take chances and innovate. The next edition of the European show, featuring the Spring/Summer 2015 collections, is scheduled for 11 to 13 February 2014, once again at the Portello fairgrounds of Fieramilanocity”.
The exports of textiles and apparels from Italy to the USA are also growing at 15% annual rate, according to the Italian Fashion System or Sistema Moda Italia (SMI). According to Sistema Moda Italia (SMI) President, Mr. Claudio Marenzi, “In 2012, the total value of exports of textiles and clothing from Italy to the US exceeded €1.6 billion, registering an increase of 15% compared to the previous year. Clothing accounted for 80% of the total value with €1.3 billion worth of exports.” Mr. Marenzi also said that, “In this socio-economic atmosphere full of challenges, the Milano Unica Textile Fair remains an essential appointment to help understand where the market is heading in 2013, not only on the domestic front (where demand is still weak) but abroad, where a return to the dynamism of past years seems to be more probable at this time.”
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Florence, Italy
Pitti Immagine Uomo Twice a year, flocks of stylish men descent upon Florence, Italy, for the defining menswear tradeshow. Created in 1972, Pitti Uomo is held in Florence twice a year. Today, this is the world’s most important platform for men’s clothing and accessory collections and for launching new products in men’s fashion.
The 59,000 square meters of exhibition space is filled with everything from suiting to streetwear, a buyer’s heaven for all things related to men’s fashion. What attendees wear at Pitti Uomo has become nearly as important as the clothes presented at the shows. Each year, the much-documented, biannual gathering draws menswear enthusiasts from all over the globe, from retailers and designers to editors and bloggers who turn the four-day-long trade show into something of a sartorial spectacle. As with previous years, Pitti Uomo’s June 2013 tradeshow launched new fashion projects, discovering new brands, and presented a range of special events… Pitti Uomo saw a very large Asian attendance showing that China, South Korea and Japan are taking men’s fashion very seriously. Dedicated to motorcycles and themed “Vroom Pitti Vroom”, The 84th edition of Pitti Immagine Uomo and the 12th edition of Pitti W ended with a positive note of buyer attendance figures confirming exhibited proposals. The organizers (Pitti Immagine) and promoters
(Centro di Firenze per la Moda Italiana) showed satisfaction with the broad and diverse selection of men’s fashion proposals, reserving particular attention for innovation and research. The exhibitors’ list was made of the well established Italian brands, an increasingly qualified group of foreign companies committed to research, up-and-coming new brands, young designers, new artisans and a selection of
the most original interpreters of urban and sporty styles – for both the clothing and accessories. With 1043 brands at Pitti Uomo plus 64 women’s collections showcasing at Pitti Immagine W, the June 2013 edition also saw competitions for new talents; the Guest Nation Turkey project; the Pitti Italics presentations by MSGM, Aquazzura and Stella Jean; and Damir Doma and Kolor runway shows.
Fashion Shows & Trade Fairs|RTW
(L) Mr. Carlo Calenda, Deputy Minister of Economic Development with Mr. Rafaello Napoleone, CEO Pitti Immagine (R) offering the Pitti Immagine Uomo Award 2013 to Yasuto Kamoshita, Founder & Creative Director, Camoshita United Arrows (Centre)
KOLOR, GUEST DESIGNER at PITTI UOMO 84
Mr. Carlo Calenda, Deputy Minister of Economic Development with Mr. Gaetano Marzotta, Chairman, Pitti Immagine & Mr. Matteo Renzi, Mayor of Florence (L to R)
Kolor, the Japanese brand created by designer Junichi Abe in 2004, was the menswear guest at Pitti Immagine Uomo 84. Junichi Abe presented his new S/S 2014 for men at a special event. Kolor’s collection was classic with a distinctive fluidity and lightness. It offered a maturity to the collection that was more structured and looked at the men’s wardrobe with intelligence, precision and a touch of humour.
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Damir Doma, Women’s Wear Guest at Pitti W Damir Doma, the eponymous brand founded by the young - in his early thirties - Paris-based designer who was born in Croatia and raised in Germany, was the women’s wear guest at Pitti W no. 12. Damir Doma showcased his Resort Collection in Florence along with a site specific project created especially for Pitti W.
MSGM, AQUAZZURA and STELLA JEAN: the PITTI ITALICS at this edition Pitti Italics is the Fondazione Pitti Discovery program that promotes and supports the new generations of fashion designers and the most interesting brands that design and manufacture in Italy and show great promise for the international markets. This edition’s Pitti Italics were MSGM by Massimo Giorgetti for men’s fashions, Aquazzura by Edgardo Osorio for women’s accessories, and Stella Jean with her men’s collection. The Italian-Haitian designer Stella Jean made her debut with her first menswear collection, STELLA JEAN HOMME. The collection was created under the banner of the “Wax & Stripes Philosophy”, with traditionally European striped shirts and the fabrics made in Burkina Faso, highlighting a strong cultural interlacing of the stylistic elements of far-off peoples and western traditions, for a mutual exchange of moods and identities.
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Turkey the Guest Nation at Pitti Uomo 84 + Pitti W 12 For the past several seasons, Fondazione Pitti Discovery has been turning the spotlights on the new stars on the international creative and economic scene In co-operation with ITKIB Istanbul Textile and Apparel Exporter Associations, the guest nation at this edition of Pitti Uomo and Pitti W was Turkey, which has been one of the most interesting players in fashion research today, one of the countries that is able to combine a strong and qualified industrial system with a wide culture in contemporary design, especially among the younger generation. Pitti Uomo venue had a dedicated area hosting collections by a select group of Turkish designers such as Niyazi Erdoğan, Hatice Gökçe, Emre Erdemoğlu, Zeynep Tosun, Aslı Filinta, Elif Cığızoğlu and Deniz Kaprol featuring with accesories by RUMISU – along with the other Turkish labels participating in Pitti Uomo - LTB, Avva, Hatem Sayki, Kigili and Ramsey. The main theme of the Guest Nation area was “Gentlemen of Istanbul: 7 Gentlemen from 7 designers from the city on 7 hills“ which took its actual concept and its inspiration from the deep rooted clothing culture of the Turkish Gentlemen, based on Istanbul‘s prominent districts, with different characteristic of cultural textures with modern designs prepared with today’s technology and the S/S 2014 trends. The Turkish designers selected to be part of the Guest Nation Project were offered the opportunity to present their designs in over 100 countries, through yoox.com’s strong international presence.
Buyers The number of foreign buyers traveling to Florence from over one hundred countries rose by 4.6% compared to the June 2012 edition, and the final total exceeded 7,700. The number of Italian buyers was around the same as for last June, with approximately 10,400 buyers representing almost 5,000 sales outlets. The total number of visitors reached 30,000. The ranking of foreign markets was led by Germany (904 buyers) and Japan (867), both of which maintained the levels recorded in 2012. There was strong growth from Russia, the United States, China, South Korea, Turkey and Hong Kong. There were significant increases from South East Asia and, in particular, Singapore, Taiwan, Malaysia and Thailand as well as Central Asia (Kazakhstan, Azerbaijan and others) and the Middle East (the United Arab Emirates and Saudi Arabia). The number of Indian buyers also rose. In Europe, France kept to previous levels whilst there were slight drops for the United Kingdom and Spain. However, a strong recovery could be seen in the buyer figures for Switzerland, Belgium, Portugal, Northern Europe (particularly Denmark and Norway) and even Greece. There were also excellent results for Eastern Europe: the Ukraine, Poland, the Czech Republic and Romania. With regard to other continents, the news was good for Brazil, Mexico, Colombia, Australia and Morocco. The top 20 foreign markets included: Germany (904 buyer), Japan (867), Spain (534), Great Britain (526), China (497), Turkey (482), France (392), The Netherlands (345), South Korea (300), Switzerland (279), Russia (265), United States (261), Belgium (244), Austria (169).
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Pitti Uomo Trends S/S 2014 Classico : The new gentleman’s travels take him into the World of naturals… The Classico man’s wardrobe for S/S 2014 draws its inspiration precisely from travel, discovering an itinerary that winds through Nature and her several elements. Clothing and accessories present colours and textures with new work on shapes and materials. Noble fibres look raw but are soft to the touch; the evident weaves guarantee an elegance that oozes comfort.
Silhouettes & Fabrics
Super-lightweight, unstructured and slim-fit suits and jackets are made of cotton, natural blends such as cotton-and-linen and fabrics specially treated to look old. Silk bourette, linens, cottons blended with silk shantung all come in dusty and neutral shades. The bush jacket is back with a totally revisited look: in coated linen and piece-dyed for more sheen, without losing that wrinkled look. Rainwear opts for special dyes, processes and experiments that combine cotton and polyurethane with a totally new dynamic.
Focus
The main accessories are leather-and-canvas bags, attaché case in hand and incredibly comfortable moccasins. The Vest makes a major comeback, worn with super-soft linen suit in natural tones, piqué polo or very fine poplin shirt and knitted regimental striped tie. The classic, informal, unstructured blue jacket is reformed in two-colour checks, Liberty of London or geometric prints to wear with slimfit slacks and shorts in rustic tones that recall burlap bags.
Accessories
The metro gentleman’s new needs are the inspiration for the business and travel collections that change the rules. Messenger bags, document cases and utility-like shopping bags designed for the true urban traveller. Functional items made in natural materials, or worn leather with traditional Italian saddlery. Fine, handcrafted leather bags in basic shapes, or curved lines with bold bands of colour. Practical compartments, inside and out, make these bags the ideal everyday and workday companion, keeping everything handy.
Informale : Multifunctional sportswear in the city… This trend offers a wardrobe with three key concepts: mobility, functionality and lightweight. Linear items made of innovative materials – rubberized effects, strictly super-light and waterproof – come with unusual functions: not only can they “folded away” thanks to inside zippers, they take the philosophy of double face to the extreme, or they can be totally transformed. Parkas that become sleeping bags, hooded sweatshirts that fold into mini-travel bags, jumpsuits or garment bags that turn into backpacks. Reversibles that are truly different inside and out – in the materials, colours and fit: the new mantra is multi-function. The summer look abounds with versatile parkas, sailing jackets and trench coats that work equally well during an evening thunderstorm or zipping through town on a scooter. Even the windbreaker jackets, with all their sailing and tech-sport features are so sophisticated and contemporary looking that they’re perfect for city wear.
Silhouettes & Fabrics
The double face travel jacket that’s as light as a silk scarf; reversible cotton and nylon jackets with prints on the “inside”; appliquéd (metal etc.) linen and nylon blend jackets; contrasting, multicolour nylon biker jackets. The materials seem to be begging to be transformed by vintage and destroyed treatments and eccentric details on denims and knits.
Focus
The season’s iconic item, for the fashionconscious dandy is the coloured, unstructured t-shirt with photo-prints mixed with barely there watercolour effects. Prints are everywhere, in geometric patterns and exotic flowers that explode with colour. The enormous palette inspires fantastic combinations: bluette and acid yellow; coral and aqua green in technicolour effects. And for casual outfits, it’s Bermudas, colour blocked pullovers and t-shirts with Pop Art accents.
Accessories
Sneakers, inspired by the 1990s, reinterpret the grunge look and its icons in a refreshed and sometimes ironic key. Vintage looks in laminated and plastic tech materials with ultra-light soles. Fine quality leathers take on a sportier look with openwork inserts and prints, and celebrate summer with bright colours: yellow, red and bluette – alongside of the classic whites, taupes, grays and blues.
RTW|Fashion Shows & Trade Fairs
Avant-Garde: A Safari Mood per Cosmopolitan Flâneurs Highlighting the adventurous spirit, this trend sees urban sensitivities coming together with the lure of exotic flora and fauna. The look mixes military and street styles: the fitted, sculpted proportions of sartorial linen jackets will go with oversized, used-looking sweatshirts, while sauvage details pop up on feather-light linen and cotton jersey t-shirts, while crewneck sweaters, cardigans and vests are decked out in bright colours taken from Nature’s own palette.
Silhouettes & Fabrics
Easy-to-wear clothes are designed for springtime and summer evenings: lightweight and functional to tie around the waist or to toss into the suitcase at the last minute…just to be prepared for anything and any occasion. The embodiment of the modern flâneur, this is a wardrobe that offers experiments in tech and natural materials, with touches of artistry and an extraordinary workmanship: handpainted camouflage effects, vintage and dusty touches.
Focus
A slim, sculpted silhouette for shirts and fitted blazers with hand-knit details, and matching leather jackets and slacks. The floral trend generates delicate ton-sur-ton prints on ultra lightweight nylon jackets and shirt-jackets, the new must-haves for leisurewear. Cardigans become the contemporary dandy’s uniform in the finest materials: délavé cashmere, makò cotton, linen-silk blends; micro-patterned shirts and Bermudas for a deconstructed look; and super-light gauze and vintage scarves.
Accessories
Exotic colours and ethnic-inspired materials present a new look for travel: roomy bags in leather, canvas and wood combinations in extremely clean lines for the city or the beach. Here’s a world of accessories that combine minimal, timeless styles with no-compromise quality. Total handcrafting, top quality materials – like Italian vacchetta and 100% pure cotton canvas, and a minimal use of metal fittings are the highlights. The favourite items are the timeless messenger and totes, briefcases and attaché cases, the rucksack and the clutch.
Photo Credit: Enrico Labriola, Claudio Bonoldi Studio, G. Giannoni, Sweet Seventeen, F. Guazzelli, Pitti Immagine Uomo No. 84
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Fashion Shows & Trade Fairs|RTW Paris, France
Who’s Next Prêt a Porter Paris A Resolutely International Session
Who’s Next Prêt-à-Porter Paris hosted its Spring/Summer 2014 collections in the Parc des Expositions, at Porte de Versailles from July 6th to Tuesday 9th July , 2013. These dates also resulted in Who’s Next Prêt-à-Porter Paris remaining the first international event to introduce the spring/summer 2014 womenswear collections…
T
he event finished this summer season after welcoming 44,502 visitors. Resolutely turned towards the international side of things, the trade show recorded an increase in European visitors who, despite the economic crisis, travelled en masse to Paris, with France remaining a safe bet in their eyes. The participating exhibitors opt for WHO’S NEXT PRÊT-A-PORTER PARIS as it is the only international women’s fashion trade show where they can meet the both the majority of far-flung exporters and also top-quality buyers.
The three foreign countries the most represented, Italy, Germany and Belgium, boasted a large increase of around 10%. Concerning exports further afield, the Middle East showed the largest increase with +18.1% compared with June 2012, with 678 visitors. Japanese visitors, in 4th place with 1,532 visitors, became more and more numerous since the organisation of the trade show at the beginning of the season (900 visitors in September 2011). The 6% increase in foreign visitors compared with September 2011 was a testament in support of moving the dates to July.
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Business
From a business point of view, the labels that played their cards right are those who have used the trade show strategically in relation to exports. Savoir-faire and quality also paid off, as buyers were on the hunt for reliable products with high added value. Exhibitors also noted the presence of numerous new boutiques.
Womens Ready To Wear
This phenomenon was primarily felt in the womenswear areas who welcomed a large number of new clients, most notably Italian, British and Russian. The reselection of labels in the PRIVATE area was celebrated unanimously. Numerous exhibitors agreed in saying that this session was the best since the purchasing of the PRET-A-PORTER PARIS show in 2011. The same enthusiasm was shown towards the new layout in FAME, with the stands all at an angle, which was very much appreciated and allowed buyers to discover new designers.
Urbanwear
Regarding MR & MRS BROWN, the feedback was equally mixed. The labels deplored the lack of mobilisation of French visitors retained in their boutiques after a disappointing period of sales in summer. Aside from the business aspect, the exhibitors in this area were disappointed that buyers didn’t use the trade show as a platform for discovering new options, inspiration and information. However, they developed their contacts in relation to exporting and have noted orders.
Accessories
In the PREMIERE CLASSE, WHO’S NEXT ACCESSORIES and MR & MRS BROWN ACCESSORIES areas, the new distribution of the labels on the map, the product categorisation, the readability and the coherence of the selection were welcomed by all. Big accounts and major international boutiques were present. Established exhibitors worked well, but it
was more difficult for new exhibitors, with buyers remaining a bit unadventurous. Two things were evident: labels who had prepared for the trade show in advance noted great results. Additionally, the increasingly high-end positioning of the selection drew in the interest of buyers. On the shoe side of things, trainers, accessible fashion products, boasted excellent figures.
Results
Though the economic assessment of the show was variable from label to label, on the whole, participants (both visitors and exhibitors) agreed that the climate was positive, fuelled by the energy of the events organised outside the halls. The catwalk show which took the central walkway by storm twice a day, with plenty of sombreros, decibels, colours and low-riders, in line with the season’s Mexican theme, also clearly left a mark on participants’ spirits.
Images courtesy Who’s Next Prêt-à-Porter Paris
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Show Report
BEST OF
HAUTE COUTURE PCJ DELHI COUTURE A/W 2013-14
Contributing Photographer: Pomy Issar
Manish Malhotra
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RTW|PCJ Delhi Couture A/W 2013-14
PCJ Delhi Couture A/W 2013-14|RTW
ANAMIKA KHANNA • The designer presents a modern take on traditional silhouettes with fitted jackets, waistcoats, and capelets paired with voluminous Gharara pants as well as the draped Dhoti silhouette, in transition as Jodhpur style trousers and skirts • The intricate embroideries highlight the colour palette in muted shades of cream, gray, gold, black with the occasional use of red and purple • Anamika’s modern bride adorn the gold Mohawk hair accessory that is suggestive of the designer’s vision of a strong, modern woman.
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PCJ Delhi Couture A/W 2013-14|RTW
ANJU MODI • Titled as Draupadi, Anju Modi draws inspiration from this mythological princess from Mahabharata • The collection unveils celebratory colours like crimsons, caramels, tamarinds, golds • Transitory shades of Ash Grey, Indigo Blue, Brutal Maroon that ultimately culminate with subtle, delicate shades of faune, blush and ivory • Lush layers of delicate embroideries, brocades, Chanderi, silks, Benarasi weaves, velvets, Khadi and all things royal and regal make this couture collection an absolute delight for the forthcoming festive / bridal season in India
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PCJ Delhi Couture A/W 2013-14|RTW
GAURAV GUPTA • Inspired by the luminescent Light and light fall, Gaurav Gupta’s collection shines in precious fabrics and rich clothes • Delicately embroidered Saris, Lehengas and Sari gowns • The colours remain iridescent in the families of moon grey, ecru, dust gold, Egyptian teal and pop neon’ • Ancient Indian embroidery techniques and materials like Saadi, Pitta, Zari, Nakshee and multi dimensional surface ornamentation used on organza and lace flowers • Fabrics are lace, jersey, georgette and soft mesh
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RTW|PCJ Delhi Couture A/W 2013-14
PCJ Delhi Couture A/W 2013-14|RTW
MANISH ARORA • Besides the typical Indian design elements, motifs and prints juxtaposed on bold and bright colours, the collection highlights inspiration taken from temple architecture and Indian street art added in kitsch grandeur • The Indian craftsmanship also reflects the contemporary spirit, skilful construction and bold accessories in neon brights • A true mix of modern fabrication and endless embroidery materials and techniques, the silhouettes ranged from Lehengas to dresses, saris and blouses in all variations
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PCJ Delhi Couture A/W 2013-14|RTW
MANISH MALHOTRA • Collection inspired by the Victorian/ Colonial India, an era of princely states and elite class of Maharajas and Maharanis • Recreating the historical time of aristocracy, the ramp was turned into Town Hall with subdued lights, huge palatial chandeliers, floral décor and candles • The silhouettes for women are vintage in floor length Anarkalis, Lehengas and gowns in dark hues of silks and velvets with crystal encrusted necklines • The leg of mutton sleeves on blouses are the highlight of the collection
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PCJ Delhi Couture A/W 2013-14|RTW
Monisha Jaisingh • A traditional Indian range of Lehengas and bridal wear, in addition to the designer’s signature collection of stylish minis and beaded gowns • Inspired by childhood dreams of a romantic fairytale, the line-up includes silhouettes, softly sculpted silks, luxurious velvet and fitted French lace • Beaded bodices paired with ‘prince’ Sherwanis; leggings and jewels bring out the old world glamour, with a touch of bohemian beauty • The collection also includes evening wear, lingerie inspired gowns representing strong, sexy and quintessentially feminine
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Couture Fashion Week S/S 2013-14 | Show Report|RTW
RITU BERI • Inspiration from the extravagance and opulence of the Punjabi weddings • Influenced by Renaissance era, with a very generous use of Elizabethan, Georgian and Victorian styles • Voluminous pleats, multi tiers, layers, ruffles, falls and flares sashay down the runway • The collection include Ballroom gowns, fish cut as well as Kalidar Lehengas, jackets, Patiala salwars and Choga like jackets • Silks, velvets, laces, nets, satins, shimmery materials and brocades are used in abundance, while Cancan is used in good measure to give volume to the outfits.
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PCJ Delhi Couture A/W 2013-14|RTW
SABYASACHI • The collection showcases the 1920s grandeur of the British India with vintage fabrics that are chosen for the collection – khadi from West Bengal, veil tulle from France, velvet, nets, laces and India’s heritage embroideries such as Aari tari and Tara, applique, Zardosi, Tilla work, mirror work and oldfashioned crewel embroidery • The silhouettes match the Flapper 20s with hand embroidered Churidaars with Dupattas created using tulle fabric, elegant saris, printed Ghararas teamed with flapper waistcoat, heavily embellished Lehenga paired with Khadi blouse • Extensive use of Indian embroideries and techniques
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PCJ Delhi Couture A/W 2013-14|RTW
Satya Paul • Satya Paul presented its first Demi Couture collection with a capsule of 25 pieces as an introduction to the ‘Satya Paul Couture’ label. • The collection explores an interesting combination of experimental silhouettes with textile fabrications, bursts of colour, sheer textures and patch worked prints • Prints are delicate renderings of florals x-rayed and skill fully engineered and transferred on fabrics via various techniques; the botanical patterns are patch-worked, embellished, cut out and recreated as lace along with other textile fabrications • The silhouettes are a modern spin to exquisite classics
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PCJ Delhi Couture A/W 2013-14|RTW
VARUN BAHL • Besides using the traditional red, Varun also introduces the concept of using winter pastels like pale blue, dust pink, powdered moss and luminous tones like ochre and fuchsia • He experiments with silhouettes, and brings Anarkalis as a day wear option • Recurring bird motifs, floral prints and floral embroidery weave their way through this collection of Sari gowns, Lehengas and Anarkalis. • The collection also has a spectacular range of evening/bridal wear • There is a lot of peplum on display which Varun teams with Sarees to create an edgy and structured look
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Show Report
BEST OF
HAUTE COUTURE INDIA BRIDAL FASHION WEEK 2013-14
Contributing Photographer: Pomy Issar
Rohit Bal
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RTW|India Bridal Fashion Week 2013-14
India Bridal Fashion Week 2013-14|RTW
ADARSH GILL • Titled Evolution, Adarsh Gill’s luxurious collection is an ode to the contemporary Indian woman • Plenty of embellished silver work in geometrical patterns on short dresses, fitted evening gowns and halter blouses that are teamed with black saris • Intricate embroideries and ornate embellishments seen on Anarkalis, Sarees, Kurtas and dresses
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RTW|India Bridal Fashion Week 2013-14
India Bridal Fashion Week 2013-14|RTW
ASHIMA & LEENA SINGH • The designers showcased a traditional yet contemporary range, focusing on Mughal influenced styles and putting a spin on the wrap around Dhoti • Dhotis were paired with short Kurtas and sheer jackets with intricate Zardosi detailing. The sarees were also draped in Dhoti style • The embroideries entailed Gotapatti, the Pietra-dura motifs and intricate Zardosi work characterized the aristocratic collection • The models adorned bridal wear in intricate Zari work, shimmery fabrics heavy jewellery for hair accessories
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RTW|India Bridal Fashion Week 2013-14
India Bridal Fashion Week 2013-14|RTW
JJ VALAYA • The show titled, ‘The Maharaja of Madrid’ depicts the return of an Indian Maharaja and his daughter from a voyage to Spain • The Spanish influence comes in the form of colours especially red, black and turquoise, the use of lace and floral motifs as well as the inclusion of gowns and matador style bolero jackets • The intricate detail and immaculate craftsmanship of the pieces is very apparent with the rich jacquard embroidery that predominates many ensembles
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RTW|India Bridal Fashion Week 2013-14
India Bridal Fashion Week 2013-14|RTW
JYOTSNA TIWARI • The designer presents classic silhouettes amalgamated with international trends with the incorporation of fine tailoring • Minimal embroidery and embellishments; the ensembles are mainly set in silk with variety of cuts and mix-match • Shades of fuschia, neon blue, orange among other bright colours • The clothes have sharp cuts, heavy work and light fabrics
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RTW|India Bridal Fashion Week 2013-14
India Bridal Fashion Week 2013-14|RTW
Meera & MUZAFFAR ALI • Integrating traditional crafted weaves with embroideries such as Chikan, Kamdani and Zardozi, the inspiration comes from the dynastic culture of the region of Awadh and the elegance and craftsmanship of Kotwara culture • The textures, colours and fabrics are lighter, softer and more delicate • The palette ranges from white to soft pastels to deeper hues as well as black • There is an inclusion of mandarin collars on Saree blouses and jackets, palazzo pants, and use of raw silk
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RTW|India Bridal Fashion Week 2013-14
India Bridal Fashion Week 2013-14|RTW
RAGHUVENDRA RATHORE • The collection draws inspiration from traditional silhouettes from across Asia, putting focus on redefining structure and fitting to achieve a sophisticated look • Poncho-like tops in digital print, frilled gowns, velvet shrugs, and long robe like embroidered jackets are some of the eye-catching details that are seen in his womenswear collection • The designer also presented a bolero Bandhgala and a Sari Bandhgala, which is inspired from his trademark Jodhpuri Bandhgala jackets that are a part of his men’s collection
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RTW|India Bridal Fashion Week 2013-14
India Bridal Fashion Week 2013-14|RTW
RINA DHAKA • The collection uses generous doses of Phulkari and Appliqué work while the silhouettes become smooth and precise, adding structure to the free flowing • Titled Free Spirited Bride the line-up incorporates Patchwork, Gota work and traditional Kamdani • Neutral shades are beautifully paired with brighter hues to give a stark contrast in the outfits • There are flared pants, voluminous, high collared multicoloured tops, shimmering net Shararas, short Anarkalis teamed with patch work Churidaars
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RTW|India Bridal Fashion Week 2013-14
India Bridal Fashion Week 2013-14|RTW
ROHIT BAL
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RTW|India Bridal Fashion Week 2013-14
India Bridal Fashion Week 2013-14|RTW
ROHIT BAL • The collection titled ‘The Mulmul Masquerade’ has a mix of Victorian grandeur and flamboyant Indian traditional elements • From the simplicity of muslin to extreme grandeur of rich velvets, the collection is inspired by the rich craftsmanship of both the periods. • From antique gold Kasab Kashmiri embroidery on muslin to Shibori on Chanderi and voiles, Rohit Bal’s collection combines high fashion with high aristocracy • The rich jewel tone of velvet, combined with ivory muslin creates an imagery of bridal luxury.
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RTW|India Bridal Fashion Week 2013-14
India Bridal Fashion Week 2013-14|RTW
SHANTANU & NIKHIL • The collection “To Die For” defines the decadent renaissance period in its most contemporary form • An ode to the woman of today, the silhouettes capture Indian culture and is fused with the modern western sensibilities • Lots of gowns, lace, satin, gold and metallic colours on display with a generous dose of the Baroque Trend • The ethnic bridal wear for women has glittering array of Lehengas, Cholis and Dupattas in tulle, French chantilly lace, silk, satin and brocade
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RTW|India Bridal Fashion Week 2013-14
India Bridal Fashion Week 2013-14|RTW
SUNEET VARMA • The collection The Golden bracelet takes a leaf from the clothing and lifestyle of Pompeii and has three subthemes of Romance, Longing and Wedding. • Romance collection showcases jewel toned, rich velvets with gold metallic prints and intricate gold work; • Longing is made up of long silhouettes, like tiered skirts and jackets, in blues and ivory with baroque pearls • The Wedding consists of floral appliqué saris and long dresses, metal crafted corset, Anarkalis, Lehengas and Saris in cutwork in peaches and soft pinks
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RTW|India Bridal Fashion Week 2013-14
India Bridal Fashion Week 2013-14|RTW
TARUN TAHiLIANI
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RTW|India Bridal Fashion Week 2013-14
India Bridal Fashion Week 2013-14|RTW
TARUN TAHILIANI • The collection, ‘Marriage, Mystic and Magic’ features traditional Indian as well as contemporary silhouettes • Traditional browns and reds with gold motifs, paisley and floral designs besides the shades of pink, beige, off white and the time honoured combination of green and maroon • A wide range of panelled kurtas with opals, pearls and other Swarovski crystals, Saris with antique gold and silver work, Gota work, Chikankari and Bandhani indulgences • Tulle and silk is used for the Lehengas and Cholis in gorgeous embroideries in bridal colours
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Show Report
BEST OF
HAUTE COUTURE PARIS FASHION WEEK A/W 2013-14
StĂŠphane Rolland
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Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week A/W 2013-14|RTW
Alexandre Vauthier • The daywear experiments with fluid yet sheer silhouettes, such as high waisted silk harem trousers paired with a loose, tie-up top • The evening wear is short and sexy in skin-coloured bustier jumpsuits built upon exquisite draping, ultra short miniskirts paired with oversized varsity jackets, and body hugging dresses exploring the edge of asymmetry • The colours are darkest black and midnight blue, while the fabrics are silk, mesh, Swarovski crystals, delicate laces. • The Accessories feature Louboutin stilleto heels with a golden cuff and a matching necklace
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Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week A/W 2013-14|RTW
Alexis Mabille • With references taken from floral décor, the collection showcases organic, voluptuous outfits exploring the artinclined references • The silhouettes are modern with figure hugging daywear in silk négligé tops, touches of brocade • Ample ruffles and tulle appliqués, intricate draping, contrasted by bold, curvaceous volumes such as giant sleeves and hoods • The colours are black, white, powder pink, ivory, taupe, blue, aquamarine, bronze, topaz, and red while the fabrics used are wool twill, satin, organza, lace, ostrich feathers, brocade and crêpe
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Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week A/W 2013-14|RTW
Atelier Versace • Focus on cuts, draping, deep necklines and exposed shoulders in precious materials like mink and crocodile and garments that enhance the silhouette, and expose the body • The evening wear have panelled cocktail dresses, in the knit and mink cropped tops worn with long mermaid skirts and in the silk mini-dresses that expose delicately embroidered lingerie-like bodices • The embellishments and the materials used are intricate trimmings, eyelets and hooks, sequins, Swarovski, leather, crocodile, mink, silk, cady, crystals, lace and tulle, knits and chiffon
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RTW|Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week A/W 2013-14
Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week A/W 2013-14|RTW
Chanel • The collection continues to retain a classic and reassuring feel as Karl Lagerfeld keeps his palette at a hushed tone with pale seafoam, blushy beiges, and deep raspberry against a majority of graphic black, white, and grey • The core silhouettes are cropped skirts worn on top of ankle-length, narrow skirts, and extra wide belts worn with thigh-high boots • The materials used are tweed, wool, cashmere, silk, tulle, sequins, cady, crystals, faille, satin, chiffon, velvet, suede, organdie, metallic threads and jet beads in a mosaic patterns
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RTW|Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week A/W 2013-14
Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week A/W 2013-14|RTW
Elie Saab • Offering glamour, and sparkle, the eveningwear focused collection features an array of full-length gowns covered with sequins • The colour palette focuses on jewel toned hues as well with a procession of red, emerald-green, amber and sapphire blue • The silhouettes highlight waist accentuating shapes while gowns are draped in heavy chiffons that feature intricate decorations • Other materials used are silk, tulle, sequins, caddy, crystals, faille, satin, muslin with embellishments such as tinted jet beads and metallic threads
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RTW|Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week A/W 2013-14
Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week A/W 2013-14|RTW
Giorgio Armani Privé • A number of high shine fabrics are used on nude tones to underscore the sensual and feminine nature of the designer’s streamlined collection • The skilfully embroidered eveningwear pieces include a number of sheer panelled floor length gowns that bring a younger edge to the collection • The crinoline is embellished with crystals, hidden by tulle and organdie and becomes one with the body revealing a sophisticated nude look • The fabrics used are ribbon crinoline, organdie, tulle, lace, crystals, faille, satin, chiffon, python, pearls, swan feathers, feathers and organdie
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RTW|Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week A/W 2013-14
Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week A/W 2013-14|RTW
Jean Paul Gaultier • The collection features a range of big cat inspired looks for show • Body-hugging silhouettes are covered in spotted fur patterns and leopard print stockings • Inspired by the movie, “The Clowns” by Italian director Federico Fellini as well as David Bowie’s “Ashes to Ashes” music video, the circus influence can be seen in bright, circular patterns found on dresses, cone-shaped hats and over-exaggerated trouser proportions • Attention to craftsmanship is evident by the impeccable embroidery and shapes presented
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RTW|Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week A/W 2013-14
Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week A/W 2013-14|RTW
Maison Martin Margeila • The collection highlights MMM’s new partnership with Swarovski on a groundbreaking new material: Crystalacite, which fuses crystal with white resin without the use of glue. • Experimental exploration through a mix of materials; crystals are formed into clusters on cuffs, which clamp down the ornate robes and adorn the solid brown riding boots • Heavy colour block leather separates, more like draped latex • The materials used are wool, cashmere, cotton, latex, tulle, sequins, caddy, crystals, chiffon, organdie, marble and denim
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Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week A/W 2013-14|RTW
Stéphane Rolland • Clean lines, draped silhouettes, and twisted layers, tube pants worn under ball gowns • The cuts are rigorous, assertive and strict, but voluptuous and well balanced at the same time • Sheathed and wrapped, the figures are minimal and sensuous • Highlights are ultra-graphic pleated collars and plastrons, made out of traditionally glazed white silk faille, applied on the chest to create a sculptural effect • Materials used are Silk Satins, vinyl for scales, frosted chiffon, tulle mosaics, ostrich feathers and metal appliqués
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RTW|Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week A/W 2013-14
Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week A/W 2013-14|RTW
Valentino • Highlight of the collection is its ornate embroideries and luxe fabrics • Italian references range from coral branches to early Renaissance Madonnas • Rich and ornate contrasts with earthy creations made from menswear fabrics with occasional sexy, lingerieinspired pieces • Neo-Baroque lace or jacquards, fur-trims and crystal beaded swirl patterns, silk, tweed, satin, chevron, herringbone, cashmere, tulle, river pearls, lace, mink, astrakhan, rhinestone, sequins, sable, black coral, feathers and gold thread
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RTW|Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week A/W 2013-14
Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week A/W 2013-14|RTW
Zuhair Murad • Collection inspired by the woods with decorated gowns and suits • Designs range from modern, luxurious and fairly conservative to sexy and revealing • Vines, branches and tree trunks stretch as embroideries with sequins and beading on gowns • Complex embellishments, sequins and occasional baroque inspiration merge between delicate elements and luxurious • High slits, revealing necklines, bold sheer touches, luxurious details • Colours are lavishing gold, silver, champagne, blue or white
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FASHION FORECASTS AUTUMN / WINTER 2014-15
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RTW|Fashion Forecasts | A/W 2014-2015
humanity
Interactions interactions
Our basic, almost primal, culture, gender, race and bloodline that we start with determines who we are. Our relationships and As the new season arrives, there is a desire we feel for people to join togetherinteractions and with others allow S P i n e Xwhat P O t m they are feeling and where they want to go, taking us topart, build on this and and create communicate about autumn winteR 2014/15 a better humanity, where our how people can connect and become part of a whole. This evolves into our direction connections allow for harmony, for A/W 2014-15, taking this desire to interact more and have it flow into all aspects of our empowered strength through TM me for our trends at sPiNeXPO , evolutions became a very powerful message that determination and commitment. creativity starting with colour and yarn...
n intensity for all that visited. it raised many questions, and created a new energy emained long after the spring/summer show passed.
powerful of these reactions has been the desire we feel for people to join together municate about what they are feeling and where they want to go, taking part, and le can connect and become part of a whole.
ed into our direction for Autumn winter 2014/15, taking this desire to interact have it flow into all aspects of our creativity starting with colour and yarn.
volutions we continue to explore colour tonally. we feel colour should be used like a to express ourselves. colour is naturally linked to our deep emotions and how we se of the world, something we all see differently.
spirituality
s perception of colour develops uniquely based on their own influences of language, y, history, climate, age and culture. Today as we interact more around the world avel and the internet a new language is being created, a visual language that has ation in colour and fabric because we can communicate visually with no need for n.
no longer directed by others or themes. it has become an individual choice based on nal interactions. At sPiNeXPOTM we have assembled new levels of colour that we feel g a direction with softer, richer hues, bathed in a positive glow of warmer tones and hem to evolutions in yarns.
perceive a colour is dependent on the colours it interacts with, a lesson we should ll aspects of our lives to make us more successful, balanced and harmonious. These ifestyle aspects and influences and how they interact have been explored in eight ur levels, but how these levels and yarns are perceived and can interact together is .
A native spirit of oranges and wild reds flow through earth-toned rusts, coppers and browns.
Humanity Our basic, almost primal, culture, gender, race and bloodline that we start with determines who we are. Our relationships and interactions with others allow us to build on this and create a better humanity, where our connections allow for harmony,empowered strength through determination and commitment. One happy social exchange can lift the human spirit. spiritual 18-1425 TPX 18-1142 TPX 19-1726 TPX development enhances our basic leATHer brOwN cOrdOvAN humanity by flowingMAHOGANY through social channels and human connections. As we continue to engage socially, both physically and virtually, we learn from each other how to develop a stronger sense of our own spirit and enlightenment that continues this cycle and flow.
Hairy surfaces, textures, irregular effects, Hairymarls surfaces,and textures, mélanges, thick witheffects, thinmarls and irregular and matt contrasting withthick shine mélanges, with thin and create the basis the yarns. mattfor contrasting with shine create the basis for the yarns.
A native spirit of oranges and wild reds flow through earthtoned rusts, coppers and browns.
survival
18-1449 TPX keTcHuP
19-1557 TPX cHilli PePPer
18-1454 TPX red clAY
Highlighting yellows hint at greens and softer hues, moving towards uplifting tones of warm winter sun. Highlighting yellows hint at greens and softer hues, moving fabrics glow and hold a subtle towards upliftingsheen; tones warm opaqueoftranslucency winter sun. and solid metallised surfaces
orward to developing exciting and dynamic new interactions with you for Autumn/ 014/15…
Spirituality
One happy social exchange can lift the human spirit. Spiritual development enhances our basic humanity by flowing through social channels and human connections. As we continue to engage socially, both physically and virtually, we learn from each other how to develop a stronger sense of our own spirit and enlightenment that continues this cycle and flow. 18-0830 TPX buTTerNuT
16-0639 TPX GOldeN Olive
15-0850 TPX ceYlON YellOw
colou earth inspir bronz indus
Yarns extre matt surfa luxur comp
are reflective and glossy, Fabrics glow and a subtle fluidhold and drapey. sheen; opaque translucency and solid metallised surfaces are reflective and glossy, fluid and drapey.
14-0846 TPX YOlk YellOw
14-0760 TPX 12-0720 TPX cYber YellOw MellOw YellOw
from rural in a p we h to ad in a c envir the c and o physi abilit rema and b
19-0915 TPX cOffee beAN
18-1048 TPX MONks rObe
17-1320 TPX TANNiN
14-4206 TPX PeArl blue
17-4111 ciTAdel
One happy social exchange can lift the human spirit. spiritual development enhances our basic humanity by flowing through social channels and human connections. As we continue to engage socially, both physically and virtually, we learn from each other how to develop a stronger sense of our own spirit and enlightenment that continues this cycle and flow.
Fashion Forecasts | A/W 2014-2015|RTW
Survival From surviving in the wild, rural outdoors to urban survival in a post-industrial world, we have long embraced how to adapt ourselves to survive in a constantly changing environment. In today’s world the challenges are different and often virtual instead of physical, but our need and ability to adapt to changes remains our key strength and basic instinct.
Highlighting yellows hint at greens and softer hues, moving towards uplifting tones of warm winter sun. fabrics glow and hold a subtle sheen; opaque translucency and solid metallised surfaces are reflective and glossy, fluid and drapey.
16-0639 TPX GOldeN Olive
15-0850 TPX ceYlON YellOw
14-0846 TPX YOlk YellOw
14-0760 TPX 12-0720 TPX cYber YellOw MellOw YellOw
19-0915 TPX cOffee beAN
beauty
Beauty Pure survival is never enough to satisfy our needs. We need romance and beauty to enhance our lives, bringing us a better quality beyond simply existing. From the pure natural beauty of our skin and hair, to the way we adorn ourselves, and our surroundings, we hold a developed aesthetic as our constant goal.
from surviving in the wild, rural outdoors to urban survival in a post-industrial world, we have long embraced how 175 to adapt ourselves to survive in a constantly changing environment. in today’s world the challenges are different and often virtual instead of physical, but our need and Colours range from warm, ability to adapt to changes earthy browns, with tones remains our key strength inspired by fur,and camel and basic instinct.
Pure survival is never enough to satisfy our needs. we need romance and beauty to enhance our lives, bringing us a better quality beyond simply existing. from the pure natural beauty of our skin and hair, to the way we adorn ourselves, and our surroundings, we hold a developed aesthetic are as our Warm, yellowed neutrals constant goal.
tinted with browns, pinks and a hint of purple that all reflect on warm, yellowed neutrals are a purity of winter tinted white. with browns, pinks and a hint of purple that all reflect
Fabrics reflect onaasense of skin purity of winter white. and translucency, peached reflect a or sensefine of skin finishes, subtly fabrics brushed and translucency, peached surfaces, delicate and refined finishes, and subtly brushed allowing for drape fluidor fine surfaces, delicate and refined flow. allowing for drape and fluid flow.
18-1048 TPX MONks rObe
17-1320 TPX TANNiN
bronze through to powerful industrial and colours stormy rangegreys. from warm, earthy browns, with tones
inspiredlooks by fur, camel Yarns reveal furry andand bronzehair, throughbronzed, to powerful extreme surface and stormy greys. matt metallicsindustrial and bonded surfaces. Brushing, felting, Yarns reveal furry looks and luxuriously dense and intensely extreme surface hair, bronzed, compact aspects are key.
matt metallics and bonded surfaces. brushing, felting, luxuriously dense and intensely compact aspects are key.
14-4206 TPX PeArl blue
17-4111 TPX ciTAdel
19-4010 TPX TOTAl ecliPse
interactions S P i n e X P O tm autumn winteR 2014/15
As a theme for our trends at sPiNeXPOTM, evolutions became a very powerful mess created an intensity for all that visited. it raised many questions, and created a new that has remained long after the spring/summer show passed.
The most powerful of these reactions has been the desire we feel for people to join and communicate about what they are feeling and where they want to go, taking p how people can connect and become part of a whole.
This evolved into our direction for Autumn winter 2014/15, taking this desire to more and have it flow into all aspects of our creativity starting with colour and yarn.
As with evolutions we continue to explore colour tonally. we feel colour should be us language to express ourselves. colour is naturally linked to our deep emotions and make sense of the world, something we all see differently.
everyone’s perception of colour develops uniquely based on their own influences of la nationality, history, climate, age and culture. Today as we interact more around th through travel and the internet a new language is being created, a visual language its foundation in colour and fabric because we can communicate visually with no translation. 17-2601 TPX ZiNc
18-1314 TPX AcOrN
16-1522 TPX rOse dAwN
14-1311 TPX eveNiNG sANd
12-1404 TPX PiNk TiNT
11-0602 TPX sNOw wHiTe
colour is no longer directed by others or themes. it has become an individual choice b our personal interactions. At sPiNeXPOTM we have assembled new levels of colour tha are taking a direction with softer, richer hues, bathed in a positive glow of warmer to matched them to evolutions in yarns.
How we perceive a colour is dependent on the colours it interacts with, a lesson w apply to all aspects of our lives to make us more successful, balanced and harmoniou different lifestyle aspects and influences and how they interact have been explored new colour levels, but how these levels and yarns are perceived and can interact to up to you.
we look forward to developing exciting and dynamic new interactions with you for A winter 2014/15…
W york vilion ly 2013
rituals 176
RTW|Fashion Forecasts | A/W 2014-2015
Rituals As our time honored stories, myths, beliefs and rituals are seen by the next generationthey are mixed up and combined in a modern melting pot of old and new, East meets West, blurring all boundaries, creating new traditions of rituals for life today in a multicultural world.
As our time honored stories, myths, beliefs and rituals are seen by the next generation they are mixed up and combined in a modern melting pot of old and new, east meets west, blurring all boundaries, creating new traditions of rituals for life today in a multicultural Velvety, denseworld. pile yarns
that have a silky sheen are contrastedintense by smooth, colours flow from saturated sacred hues of superfine luxury. Brushed burgundy and berries to opulent softness hints at feathery and purples fabrics and new violet hues. furry surfaces and with ultimate depth.
velvety, dense pile yarns that have a silky sheen are contrasted by smooth, superfine luxury. brushed softness hints at feathery and furry surfaces and fabrics with ultimate depth.
Intense colours flow from saturated sacred hues of burgundy and berries to opulent purples and new violet hues.
emotions Emotions
TM
spinexpotm shanghai shanghai World expo 3-4-5 september 2013
How we feel and react to our experiences past and present are what creates our personal www.spinexpo.com growth. Today it is essential to connect with our emotions in order to express ourselves as individuals in a world where we are organized so much as a collective.
14-3905 TPX lAveNdAr blue
18-3820 TPX TwiliGHT PurPle
17-3612 TPX OrcHid MisT
16-3520 TPX AfricAN viOleT
origins
19-2630 TPX wild AsTOr
19-2033 TPX ANeMONe
How we feel and react to our experiences past and present are what creates our personal growth. Today it is essential to connect with our emotions in order to express ourselves as individuals in a world where we are organized so much as a collective.
Translucent skin tones and veiled Yarns have a round warm pinks arelook, contrasted by a fiery handles and frothy vibrancysurfaces. of almost red, all tones Colour effects such as printing subtly tinted by yellow. and dip dyeing continue but have a roundtake look, warm more subtly andYarns surfaces on a silky sheen.handles and frothy surfaces. colour effects such as printing and dip dyeing continue but more subtly and surfaces take on a silky sheen.
Translucent skin tones and veiled pinks are contrasted by a fiery vibrancy of almost red, all tones subtly tinted by yellow.
13-2803 TPX PAle lilAc
16-1712 TPX POliGNAc
17-1753 TPX GerANiuM
17-1929 TPX rAPTure rOse
16-1723 TPX cONfeTTi
15-1821 TPX flAMiNGO PiNk
19-0414 TPX fOresT NiGHT
18-0312 TPX 17-0330 TPX deeP licHeN GreeN TurTle GreeN
15-0531 TPX sweeT PeA
15-6
emotions
origins How we feel and react to our experiences past and present are what creates our personal growth. Today it is essential to connect with our emotions in order to express ourselves as individuals in a world where we are organized so much as a collective.
Our roots are deeply intertwined with nature and its natural life cycle. we have always been grounded and humbled by our eco system, but now we are also governed by its power. As it influences and affects changes in the world, our lives must adapt Rich mĂŠlanges and multiirrevocably to environmental ended marls, tweeds and and climate forces.
Fashion Forecasts | A/W 2014-2015|RTW
Origins Our roots are deeply intertwined with nature and its natural life cycle. We have always been grounded and humbled by our eco system, but now we are also governed by its power. As it influences and affects changes in the world, our lives must adapt irrevocably to environmental and climate forces.
Translucent skin tones and veiled pinks are contrasted by a fiery vibrancy of almost red, all tones subtly tinted by yellow. Yarns have a round look, warm handles and frothy surfaces. colour effects such as printing and dip dyeing continue but more subtly and surfaces take on a silky sheen.
colour flecks are among the yarns. Fabrics deep areforest luxuriously greens and bio soft, along with highly matter tones arebrushed contrasted by fresh vibrant reflecting surfaces and interest inhues varying new growth from more surface textures. consistently fertile origins.
rich mĂŠlanges and multi-ended marls, tweeds and colour flecks are among the yarns. fabrics are luxuriously soft, along with highly brushed surfaces and interest in varying surface textures.
Deep forest greens and bio matter tones are contrasted by fresh vibrant hues reflecting new growth from more consistently fertile origins.
16-1712 TPX POliGNAc
17-1753 TPX GerANiuM
17-1929 TPX rAPTure rOse
16-1723 TPX cONfeTTi
15-1821 TPX flAMiNGO PiNk
dreams
Dreams Though we are rooted in and understand our origins, our dreams allow us to go further without boundaries, generating an optimism of blue sky thinking, reaching to the stars and beyond. Our dreams create a new life, even a new world, where we can be liberated from the mundane and enjoy more fantasy.
Though we are rooted in and understand our origins, our dreams allow us to go further without boundaries, generating an optimism of blue sky thinking, reaching to the stars and beyond. Our dreams create a new life, even a new world, where we can be liberated The opulence continues with from the mundane and enjoy more fabrics contrasting luxuriously fantasy.
sheer knits with dense and velvety textures. Fabrics Tranquil light blues reflect take on a glossy sheen and against more intensely silky drape thatsaturated emanate oceanic tones that are excellence and richextravagance. and opulent like midnight skies and dark inky hues. The opulence continues with fabrics contrasting luxuriously sheer knits with dense and velvety textures. fabrics take on a glossy sheen and silky drape that emanate excellence and extravagance.
Tranquil light blues reflect against more intensely saturated oceanic tones that are rich and opulent like midnight skies and dark inky hues.
15-4309 TPX sTerliNG blue
19-0414 TPX fOresT NiGHT
16-4525 TPX MAui blue
18-4535 TPX blue jewel
19-4826 TPX drAGONflY
19-4234 TPX iNk blue
19-4057 TPX True blue
18-0312 TPX 17-0330 TPX deeP licHeN GreeN TurTle GreeN
15-0531 TPX sweeT PeA
15-6120 TPX MiNG
16-5825 TPX GuMdrOP GreeN
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Evolution From small delicacies, graceful details, delightful surprises to … all things pretty. In a word … beauty. This is perhaps the major aspiration of our times. It is much more than just a craving to be part of the daily ‘scene’, rather a desire for pleasure, for those extra attentions that ‘make the difference’ and which enrich our lives. For instance, there is the fantastic success of the new Victoria’s Secret flagship store in London, a major shopping experience in a precious and enchanting setting. Then there is the growing craze for refined table linen to embellish our homes. And in a completely different direction there is the phenomenon of the erotic bestseller “Fifty Shades of Grey”! For lingerie this is the chance to profit from the desire for excitement. After all, lingerie is the very incarnation of paying attention to yourself … the most accessible of routes to pleasure. In short, this is the moment for Bodyfashion professionals to profit from … beauty.
Silence The pastels take off again thanks to nuances which are perfectly tuned to floating lines and featherweights.
Oxidised Bronze, rust and brown tones for the artisanal effects and innovative animal designs.
Sumptuous Dark and sombre shades and lighter accents for today’s casual glamour.
Playful A burst of bright, tonic colours with echoes from the past for new mixtures.
Fashion Forecasts | A/W 2014-2015|RTW
Silence An extraordinary meeting of elements which injects the newness in the revival of pastel shades. The general feeling of seductive beauty without ostentation is expressed in a fairy tale mood taking forward the highlights of last season’s celestial themes. Nature’s perpetual movements are captured in ephemeral still lifes. Everything is light and airy and in total contrast with the Urban themes which dominate outerwear trends.This is lingerie at its most intimate. The apotheosis of technical wizardry.
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Oxidized The brown, copper and rust family develops strongly in combination with amazing surface & yarn treatments. It is part of the ongoing fascination of artisanal and crafted elements and a counterbalance of the technical invasion in our lifestyles. This section is not without difficulty because it calls for reflection and forward thinking on how to use and merchandise these colours. The danger of ‘heaviness’ needs to be avoided even when an element of roughness is introduced. Combinations with metallic or shiny accents and tonal multi-colour add movement and delicacy. This is also a major direction for novelty animal designs.
Fashion Forecasts | A/W 2014-2015|RTW
Sumptuous Like Giorgio Armani, we also believe that casual glamour is what mature women like best. Garments that are easy to wear but decorated with amazing, refined ornaments. Our inspiration moves from vintange to historical richness. Our starting point is Venice with its melting pot of Gothic, Renaissance and oriental elements. In this most exotic part of the colour card, we imagine ourselves in a palazzo at the Grand Canal, surrounded by the leftovers of decadence: velvet, brocades, mosaics. Imagine…a night sky without light pollution, voluptuous, dark, mysterious.
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Playful The spirit of mixology, the art and science of mixing drinks and cocktails. A big trend at the moment is to invent new tastes that coincide with the growing longing for discoveries and experiences. The mix is a bit of classic plus something from other eras or cultures. In this theme we mix different worlds of taste and in the growing presence of colour we see the importance of other continents and especially Brazil. Another element of discovery is New Vintage which already makes furore on the menswear catwalks where a touch of dandyism is mixed with casualness and lots of unusual colours. A chance to treat Playful ideas with a big dose of super chic.
Fashion Forecasts | A/W 2014-2015|RTW
Alive
Life is immortal. It escapes the fingers of fate. Its forms change, adapt, slide, embrace and reject, and still persist. Thanatos, pervasive shadow of our future, stands, but Eros has already seeped through. Seeds of life grow where we no longer expect them. An existential
lichen hovers over our darkest projections and the future digs deep to its flesh and its origins to redefine itself. This labyrinthic present follows the thread of its instinct. A response from the innate sense of survival. Life is stronger than hope, this is the meaning of creation.
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Amniotic Instinct
Faced with a future crushed by questions, the echo of our roots sounds like a response. With fetal instinct, we dive into the reassuring cocoon of our forgotten origins. Hurrying the cycle of life along, returning as a new beginning. Atavistic momentum, a response to the original cry muffled by millions of years. A water wall as a protection from sensory overload. A pause, a silence. Peace and quiet in an imperative thrill. A padded universe for senses finally soothed. Introverted assertion of one’s ego in view of global expansion.
DREAMLIKE DREAMLIKE PROJECTION PROJECTION
Subaquatic gleam Lueur subaquatique Subaquatic gleam Lueur subaquatique Cerulean modesty Pudeur céruléenne Cerulean modesty Pudeur céruléenne Cyanophyta Cyanophyta Cyanophyta Cyanophyta Lagoonal area Aire lagunaire Lagoonal area Aire lagunaire Cellular blao Blao cellulaire Cellular blao Blao cellulaire Spectral foam Écume spectrale Spectral foam Écume spectrale Misty ashes Cendres embrumées Misty ashes Cendres embrumées Plasmatic shadow Ombre plasmatique Plasmatic shadow Ombre plasmatique Abyssal essence Essence abyssale Abyssal essence Essence abyssale
PROJECTION ONIRIQUE PROJECTION ONIRIQUE 10 Sulfur mist Brume de sulfure 10 Sulfur mist Brume de sulfure 11 Absurd green Vert absurde 11 Absurd green Vert absurde 12 Strange arsenolite Étrange arsénite 12 Strange arsenolite Étrange arsénite 13 Poisonous dragée Dragée empoisonnée 13 Poisonous dragée Dragée empoisonnée 14 Fanatic smalt Smalt exalté 14 Fanatic smalt Smalt exalté 15 Tender spectrum Spectre tendre 15 Tender spectrum Spectre tendre 16 Shaded indiga Fard à fossette 16 Shaded indiga Fard à fossette 17 Delectable complexion Carnation déléctable 17 Delectable complexion Carnation déléctable 18 Immortal nectar Nectar immortel 18 Immortal nectar Nectar immortel
Feeling & Materials ANIMIST
PROCESS Aspects ANIMIST PROCESS
PANTONE PANTONE COATED COATED
1 1 2 2 3 3 4 4 5 5 6 6 7 7 8 8 9 9
PANTONE PANTONE TCX TCX
AMNIOTIC AMNIOTIC INSTINCT INSTINCT AMNIOTIQUE INSTINCT INSTINCT AMNIOTIQUE
PANTONE PANTONE TPX TPX
colour colour ranges/gammes ranges/gammes de de couleurs couleurs
AUTUMN AUTUMN WINTER WINTER 2014 2014 2015 2015
Fashion Forecasts | A/W 2014-2015|RTW
12-4305 TPX 12-4305 TPX 12-4607 TPX 12-4607 TPX 19-4826 TPX 19-4826 TPX 17-4730 TPX 17-4730 TPX 15-4415 TPX 15-4415 TPX 13-4303 TPX 13-4303 TPX 17-5102 TPX 17-5102 TPX 19-2312 TPX 19-2312 TPX 19-4305 TPX 19-4305 TPX
12-4305 TCX 12-4305 TCX 12-4607 TCX 12-4607 TCX 19-4826 TCX 19-4826 TCX 17-4730 TCX 17-4730 TCX 15-4415 TCX 15-4415 TCX 13-4303 TCX 13-4303 TCX 17-5102 TCX 17-5102 TCX 19-2312 TCX 19-2312 TCX 19-4305 TCX 19-4305 TCX
7541C 7541C 7457C 7457C 5473C 5473C 632C 632C 549C 549C 427C 427C 423C 423C 5195C 5195C 426C 426C
185
SUBAQUATIC GLEAM
11-0620 TPX 11-0620 TCX 600C 11-0620 TPX 11-0620 TCX 600C 18-4432 TPX 18-4432 TCX 7706C 18-4432 TPX 18-4432 TCX 7706C 16-4610 TPX 16-4610 TCX 549C 16-4610 TPX 16-4610 TCX 549C 14-4908 TPX 14-4908 TCX 622C 14-4908 TPX 14-4908 TCX 622C CERULEAN MODESTY 19-4245 TPX 19-4245 TCX 2945C 19-4245 TPX 19-4245 TCX 2945C 13-1405 TPX 13-1405 TCX 7604C 13-1405 TPX 13-1405 TCX 7604C 17-1718 TPX 17-1718 TCX 5005C 17-1718 TPX 17-1718 TCX 5005C 18-1635 TPX 18-1635 TCX 696C 18-1635 TPX 18-1635 TCX 696C 17-1656 TPX 17-1656 TCX 178C 17-1656 TPX CYANOPHYTA 17-1656 TCX 178C
Fibers
PROCESSUS ANIMISTE PROCESSUS ANIMISTE 19 Rocky bone-structure Ossature rocailleuse Water Respectful 19 Rocky bone-structure Ossature rocailleuse 20 Limestone skeleton Squelette calcaire 20 Limestone skeleton Squelette calcaire Precious Slightly tinted21 Wooden pulp Pulpe de bois 21 Wooden pulp Pulpe de bois Delicate Watered 22 Ebony armor Armure d’ébène 22 Ebony armor Armure d’ébène Natural lichen Lichen blanchi Degraded 23 Whitewashed 23 Whitewashed lichen Lichen blanchi 24 Opaline eggshell Coquille opaline Micro-thin Faded 24 Opaline eggshell Coquille opaline 25 Fertile pollenUltra-Length Pollen fertile Deep tinted 25 Fertile pollen Pollen fertile 26 Macro Cobalt Macro-Cobalt Eco Friendly Blue shaded 26 Macro Cobalt Macro-Cobalt 27 Hatching Hematite Hématite éclose Light water Shaded 27 Hatching Hematite like Hématite éclose
Floating Experience Vaporous Evanescent Diaphanous Translucent Alive Shimmered gleam Like water reflection Under water Reflected Water tie & dyed ICONIC Transparent Wet Shaded ICONIC OUTCOME ISSUE ICONIQUE Oily ISSUE ICONIQUE Deep OUTCOME 28 Heroic blood Sang héroïque Heroic blood Sang héroïque Refined Dark opacity28 29 Scarlet sap Sève écarlate 29 Scarlet sap Sève écarlate Brutal Strong materiality 30 Alabaster breath Souffle d’albâtre 30 Alabaster breath Souffle d’albâtre Strong & delicate 31 Protective zenith Zénith protecteur 31 32 32 33 33 34 34 35 35 36 36
Protective zenith Zénith protecteur Celestial body Corps céleste Celestial body Corps céleste Dark firmament Firmament obscur Dark firmament Firmament obscur China shell Cuirasse de porcelaine China shell Cuirasse de porcelaine Ashen standard Étendard cendré Ashen standard Étendard cendré Extreme balance Reliquat extrême Extreme balance Reliquat extrême
17-1501 TPX 17-1501 TCX 17-1501 TPXLAGOONAL 17-1501 TCX AREA 12-0404 TPX 12-0404 TCX 12-0404 TPX 12-0404 TCX 14-1036 TPX 14-1036 TCX 14-1036 TPX 14-1036 TCX 19-4205 TPX 19-4205 TCX 19-4205 TPX 19-4205 TCX 12-5203 TPX 12-5203 TCX 12-5203 TPXCELLULAR 12-5203 BLAO TCX 14-4809 TPX 14-4809 TCX 14-4809 TPX 14-4809 TCX 13-0850 TPX 13-0850 TCX 13-0850 TPX 13-0850 TCX 18-4244 TPX 18-4244 TCX 18-4244 TPX 18-4244 TCX 14-3904 TPX 14-3904 TCX 14-3904 TPX 14-3904 TCX
SPECTRAL FOAM
422C 422C 7527C 7527C 7509C 7509C Black 3C Black 3C 7541C 7541C 7464C 7464C 122C 122C 300C 300C 5305C 5305C
19-1557 TPX 19-1557 TCX 201C 19-1557 TPX 19-1557 TCX 201C 19-1663 TPX 19-1663 TCX 193C 19-1663 TPX MISTY 19-1663 TCX 193C ASHES 12-4306 TPX 12-4306 TCX 7541C 12-4306 TPX 12-4306 TCX 7541C 16-4530 TPX 16-4530 TCX 298C 16-4530 TPX 16-4530 TCX 298C 15-4105 TPX 15-4105 TCX 644C 15-4105 TPX 15-4105 TCX 644C 19-3810 TPX 19-3810 TCX 533C 19-3810 TPX 19-3810 TCX 533C PLASMATIC 11-1404 TPX 11-1404SHADOW TCX 7604C 11-1404 TPX 11-1404 TCX 7604C 14-4002 TPX 14-4002 TCX 434C 14-4002 TPX 14-4002 TCX 434C 18-5203 TPX 18-5203 TCX Cool Gray 10C 18-5203 TPX 18-5203 TCX Cool Gray 10C
ABYSSAL ESSENCE
PANTONE® and other Pantone LLC trademarks are the property of Pantone LLC. PANTONE Colors may not match PANTONE-identified standards. PANTONE® and other Pantone LLC trademarks are the property of Pantone PANTONE may not match PANTONE-identified standards. Consult current PANTONE FASHION+HOME publications for accurate color.LLC. Pantone LLC isColors a wholly-owned subsidiary of X-rite, Incorporated. Consult current PANTONE FASHION+HOME publications for accurate color. Pantone LLC is a wholly-owned subsidiary of X-rite, Incorporated. ©Pantone LLC,2011. All rights reserved.
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Dreamlike Projection
More than humility, facing his own responsibility, man has developed a shameful identity. Concealing himself, hiding and even transforming. In an animist reversed momentum, man materializes to become more discreet. After protecting our body through amniotic instinct, our psychic identity also regains its fetal safety in the imaginary matrix. A fantasized projection of one’s self, to continue existing beyond an abandoned reality. A utopia of one’s self that does not wait to come to life to become real.
PANTONE TPX
PANTONE TCX
PANTONE COATED
12-4305 TPX 12-4607 TPX 19-4826 TPX 17-4730 TPX 15-4415 TPX 13-4303 TPX 17-5102 TPX 19-2312 TPX 19-4305 TPX
12-4305 TCX 12-4607 TCX 19-4826 TCX 17-4730 TCX 15-4415 TCX 13-4303 TCX 17-5102 TCX 19-2312 TCX 19-4305 TCX
7541C 7457C 5473C 632C 549C 427C 423C 5195C 426C
Subaquatic gleam Lueur subaquatique Cerulean modesty Pudeur céruléenne Cyanophyta Cyanophyta Lagoonal area Aire lagunaire Cellular blao Blao cellulaire Spectral foam Écume spectrale Misty ashes Cendres embrumées Plasmatic shadow Ombre plasmatique Abyssal essence Essence abyssale
DREAMLIKE AMNIOTIC PROJECTION PROJECTION ONIRIQUE INSTINCT INSTINCT AMNIOTIQUE 10 1 11 2 12 3 13 4 14 5 15 6 16 7 17 8 18 9
Sulfur mist Brume de sulfure Subaquatic gleam Lueur subaquatique Absurd green Vert absurde Cerulean modesty Pudeur céruléenne Strange arsenolite Étrange arsénite Cyanophyta Cyanophyta Poisonous dragée Dragée empoisonnée Lagoonal area Aire lagunaire Fanatic smalt Smalt exalté Cellular blao Blao cellulaire Tender spectrum Spectre tendre Spectral foam Écume spectrale Shaded indiga Fard à fossette Misty ashes Cendres embrumées Delectable complexion Carnation déléctable Plasmatic shadow Ombre plasmatique Immortal nectar Nectar immortel Abyssal essence Essence abyssale
ANIMIST DREAMLIKE PROCESSUS ANIMISTE PROCESS PROJECTION PROJECTION ONIRIQUE 19 10 20 11 21 12 22 13 23 14 24 15 25 16 26 17 27 18
Rocky bone-structure Ossature rocailleuse Sulfur mist Brume de sulfure Limestone skeleton Squelette calcaire Absurd green Vert absurde Wooden pulp Pulpe de bois Strange arsenolite Étrange arsénite Ebony armor Armure d’ébène Poisonous dragée Dragée empoisonnée Whitewashed lichen Lichen blanchi Fanatic smalt Smalt exalté Opaline eggshell Coquille opaline Tender spectrum Spectre tendre Fertile pollen Pollen fertile Shaded indiga Fard à fossette Macro Cobalt Macro-Cobalt Delectable complexion Carnation déléctable Hatching Hematite Hématite éclose Immortal nectar Nectar immortel
Feeling & Materials
11-0620 TPX 12-4305 TPX 18-4432 TPX 12-4607 TPX 16-4610 TPX 19-4826 TPX 14-4908 TPX 17-4730 TPX 19-4245 TPX 15-4415 TPX 13-1405 TPX 13-4303 TPX 17-1718 TPX 17-5102 TPX 18-1635 TPX 19-2312 TPX 17-1656 TPX 19-4305 TPX
11-0620 TCX 12-4305 TCX 18-4432 TCX 12-4607 TCX 16-4610 TCX 19-4826 TCX 14-4908 TCX 17-4730 TCX 19-4245 TCX 15-4415 TCX 13-1405 TCX 13-4303 TCX 17-1718 TCX 17-5102 TCX 18-1635 TCX 19-2312 TCX 17-1656 TCX 19-4305 TCX
600C 7541C 7706C 7457C 549C 5473C 622C 632C 2945C 549C 7604C 427C 5005C 423C 696C 5195C 178C 426C
187
SULFUR MIST
17-1501 TPX 17-1501 TCX 422C 11-0620 TPX 11-0620 TCX 600C 12-0404 TPX 12-0404 TCX 7527C 18-4432 TPX 18-4432 TCX 7706C 14-1036 TPX 14-1036 TCX 7509C 16-4610 TPX 16-4610 TCX 549C 19-4205 TPX 19-4205 TCX Black 3C 14-4908 TPX 14-4908 TCX 622C ABSURD GREEN 12-5203 TPX 12-5203 TCX 7541C 19-4245 TPX 19-4245 TCX 2945C 14-4809 TPX 14-4809 TCX 7464C 13-1405 TPX 13-1405 TCX 7604C 13-0850 TPX 13-0850 TCX 122C 17-1718 TPX 17-1718 TCX 5005C 18-4244 TPX 18-4244 TCX 300C 18-1635 TPX 18-1635 TCX 696C STRANGE ARSENOLITE 14-3904 TPX 14-3904 TCX 5305C 17-1656 TPX 17-1656 TCX 178C
ICONIC ANIMIST
ISSUE ICONIQUE Aspects OUTCOME Fibers ANIMISTE PROCESS PROCESSUS 28 Heroic blood Sang héroïque
Powdery Envelopment Romantically dusty Dramatically used Strong tinted Faded colorama Poetic morphism Neo fairy-tailored Opposite association Evanescent materiality Translucent colours ICONIC OUTCOME Reassuring feeling Skin coloured Skin touch Epidermic feeling Strange happy feeling Powdered surfaces
64
PANTONE COATED
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
PANTONE TCX
colour ranges/gammes colour ranges/gammes de couleurs de couleurs
AUTUMN WINTER 2014 2015
AUTUMN WINTER 2014 2015
AMNIOTIC INSTINCT INSTINCT AMNIOTIQUE
PANTONE TPX
Fashion Forecasts | A/W 2014-2015|RTW
19 Rocky bone-structure Ossature rocailleuse Strange 29 Feeling Scarlet sap Sève écarlate Limestone skeleton Squelette calcaire Strong20 30technicity Alabaster breath Souffle d’albâtre 21 Wooden pulp Pulpe de bois Surprising nature zenith Zénith protecteur 31 Protective 22 Ebony armor Armure d’ébène 32 Celestial body Corps céleste Surnatural aspect 23 Whitewashed lichen Lichen blanchi 33 crafted Dark firmament Firmament obscur Techno 24 Opaline eggshell Coquille opaline 34 China shell Cuirasse de porcelaine Colour 25 block-mixed Fertile pollen Pollen fertile 35 Ashen standard Étendard cendré Degraded 26 Macro Cobalt Macro-Cobalt 36 Extreme balance Reliquat extrême Mix of27 nature Hatching Hematite Hématite éclose
19-1557POISONOUS TPX 19-1557 TCX 201C DRAGÉE 17-1501 TPX 17-1501 TCX 422C 19-1663 TPX 19-1663 TCX 193C 12-0404 TPX 12-0404 TCX 7527C 12-4306 TPX 12-4306 TCX 7541C 14-1036 TPX 14-1036 TCX 7509C 16-4530 TPX 16-4530 TCX 298C 19-4205 TPX 19-4205 TCX Black 3C 15-4105 TPX 15-4105 TCX 644C 12-5203 TPX 12-5203 TCX 7541C FANATIC SMALT 19-3810 TPX 19-3810 TCX 533C 14-4809 TPX 14-4809 TCX 7464C 11-1404 TPX 11-1404 TCX 7604C 13-0850 TPX 13-0850 TCX 122C 14-4002 TPX 14-4002 TCX 434C 18-4244 TPX 18-4244 TCX 300C 18-5203 TPX 18-5203 TCX Cool Gray 10C 14-3904 TPX 14-3904 TCX 5305C
TENDER SPECTRUM
ISSUE ICONIQUE 28
Heroic blood Sang héroïque
19-1557 TPX
19-1557 TCX
201C
16-4530 TCX 15-4105 TCX
298C 644C
SHADED INDIGA 29 Scarlet sap Sève écarlate 19-1663 TPX 19-1663 TCX 193C PANTONE® and other Pantone LLC trademarks are the property of Pantone LLC. PANTONE Colors may not match PANTONE-identified standards. 30 Alabaster breath Souffle d’albâtre 12-4306 TPX 12-4306 TCXIncorporated. 7541C Consult current PANTONE FASHION+HOME publications for accurate color. Pantone LLC is a wholly-owned subsidiary of X-rite, ©Pantone LLC,2011. All rights reserved.
31 32
Protective zenith Zénith protecteur Celestial body Corps céleste
16-4530 TPX 15-4105 TPX
33 34
Dark firmament Firmament obscur China shell Cuirasse de porcelaine
19-3810 TPX 19-3810 TCX 533C DELECTABLE COMPLEXION 11-1404 TPX 11-1404 TCX 7604C
35 36
Ashen standard Étendard cendré Extreme balance Reliquat extrême
14-4002 TPX 18-5203 TPX
14-4002 TCX 18-5203 TCX
434C Cool Gray 10C
IMMORTAL NECTAR
PANTONE® and other Pantone LLC trademarks are the property of Pantone LLC. PANTONE Colors may not match PANTONE-identified standards. Consult current PANTONE FASHION+HOME publications for accurate color. Pantone LLC is a wholly-owned subsidiary of X-rite, Incorporated.
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Animist Process
The environment is unified. The last border, that of the living falls as well. Objects come alive. Like a vindictive restoration of balance the manufactured object returns to nature, recalls its origins. With a human less present in reality, what is lifeless feeds on the abandoned breath of life. An authentic cry, and what is essential becomes the main thing. Raw material no longer transforms, it expresses itself, rawly. And in essence, the pulse of Gaia can still be heard. Punctuating and drawing the new features of a living future.
Cyanophyta Cyanophyta Lagoonal area Aire lagunaire
19-4826 TPX 17-4730 TPX
19-4826 TCX 17-4730 TCX
5473C 632C
5 6
Cellular blao Blao cellulaire Spectral foam Écume spectrale
15-4415 TPX 13-4303 TPX
15-4415 TCX 13-4303 TCX
549C 427C
7 8 9
Misty ashes Cendres embrumées Plasmatic shadow Ombre plasmatique Abyssal essence Essence abyssale
19-2312 TPX 19-4305 TPX
19-2312 TCX 19-4305 TCX
5195C 426C
Fashion Forecasts | A/W 2014-2015 17-5102 TPX 17-5102 TCX |RTW 423C
11-0620 TPX 18-4432 TPX
11-0620 TCX 18-4432 TCX
600C 7706C
12 13 14
Strange arsenolite Étrange arsénite Poisonous dragée Dragée empoisonnée Fanatic smalt Smalt exalté
16-4610 TPX 14-4908 TPX 19-4245 TPX
16-4610 TCX 14-4908 TCX 19-4245 TCX
549C 622C 2945C
15 16
Tender spectrum Spectre tendre Shaded indiga Fard à fossette
13-1405 TPX 17-1718 TPX
13-1405 TCX 17-1718 TCX
7604C 5005C
17 18
Delectable complexion Carnation déléctable Immortal nectar Nectar immortel
18-1635 TPX 17-1656 TPX
18-1635 TCX 17-1656 TCX
696C 178C
17-1501 12-4305TPX TPX 12-0404 12-4607 TPX TPX
17-1501 TCX 12-4305 TCX 12-0404 12-4607TCX TCX
422C 7541C 7527C 7457C
1 19 2 20 21 3 22 4 23 5 24 6 25 7 26 8 27 9
Rocky bone-structure Ossature rocailleuse Subaquatic gleam Lueur subaquatique Limestone skeleton Squelette calcaire Cerulean modesty Pudeur céruléenne Wooden pulp Pulpe de bois Cyanophyta Cyanophyta Ebony armor Armure d’ébène Lagoonal area Aire lagunaire Whitewashed lichen Lichen blanchi Cellular blao Blao cellulaire Opaline eggshell Coquille opaline Spectral foam Écume spectrale Fertile pollen Pollen fertile Misty ashes Cendres embrumées Macro Cobalt Macro-Cobalt Plasmatic shadow Ombre plasmatique Hatching Hematite Hématite éclose Abyssal essence Essence abyssale
ISSUE ICONIQUE PROJECTION 28 ONIRIQUE Heroic blood Sang héroïque
1029 11 30 1231 1332 1433 1534 1635 1736
Sulfur mist de sulfure Scarlet sapBrume Sève écarlate Absurd green VertSouffle absurde Alabaster breath d’albâtre Strange arsenolite Étrange arsénite Protective zenith Zénith protecteur Poisonous dragée Dragée empoisonnée Celestial body Corps céleste Fanatic smalt Smalt exalté obscur Dark firmament Firmament Tender Spectre tendre Chinaspectrum shell Cuirasse de porcelaine Ashen standard Étendard cendré Shaded indiga Fard à fossette Extreme balance Reliquat extrême Delectable complexion Carnation déléctable
18
Immortal nectar Nectar immortel
Feeling & Materials Aspects ANIMIST PROCESS
64
14-1036 TCX 19-4826 TCX 19-4205 TCX 17-4730 TCX 12-5203 TCX 15-4415 TCX 14-4809 TCX 13-4303 TCX 13-0850 TCX 17-5102 TCX 18-4244 TCX 19-2312 TCX 14-3904 TCX 19-4305 TCX
7509C 5473C Black 3C 632C 7541C 549C 7464C 427C 122C 423C 300C 5195C 5305C 426C
ROCKY BONE-STRUCTURE
19-1557 TPX 11-0620 TPX TPX 19-1663 18-4432 TPX TPX 12-4306
19-1557 TCX 11-0620TCX TCX 19-1663 18-4432TCX TCX 12-4306
201C 600C 193C 7706C 7541C
16-4610 TPX 16-4610TCX TCX 549C 16-4530 TPX 16-4530 298C 14-4908 TPX 14-4908 TCX 622C 15-4105 TPX 15-4105 TCX 644C LIMESTONE SKELETON 19-4245TPX TPX 19-4245TCX TCX 2945C 19-3810 19-3810 533C 13-1405TPX TPX 11-1404 14-4002 TPX 17-1718 TPX 18-5203 18-1635 TPX
13-1405TCX TCX 11-1404 14-4002 17-1718 TCX TCX 18-5203 18-1635TCX TCX
WOODEN PULP 17-1656 TCX
7604C 7604C 434C 5005C Cool Gray 10C 696C
17-1656 TPX
178C
ARMOR 17-1501 TPXEBONY 17-1501 TCX
422C
Fibers
PROCESSUS ANIMISTE
Functional Organic design Skeletal Alveolar Honey combed Intertwined compressed Felted Multi coated Story telling fabrics Altered surfaces ICONIC Nature work OUTCOME Animal appearance Anthro-pomorphism Networking canvas Bones structured In development
14-1036 TPX 19-4826 TPX 19-4205 TPX 17-4730 TPX 12-5203 TPX 15-4415 TPX 14-4809 TPX 13-4303 TPX 13-0850 TPX 17-5102 TPX 18-4244 TPX 19-2312 TPX 14-3904 TPX 19-4305 TPX
PANTONE COATED
Sulfur mist Brume de sulfure Absurd green Vert absurde
PANTONE TCX
10 11
ANIMIST AMNIOTIC PROCESSUS ANIMISTE PROCESS INSTINCT INSTINCT AMNIOTIQUE
ICONIC DREAMLIKE OUTCOME PROJECTION
189
PROJECTION ONIRIQUE
PANTONE TPX
colour ranges/gammes de couleurs colour ranges/gammes de couleu
AUTUMN WINTER 2014 2015
AUTUMN WINTER 2014 2015
DREAMLIKE PROJECTION
3 4
19 Nature Rocky bone-structure Ossature rocailleuse Exalted Unveiled architecture Macro construction Ebony armor Armure d’ébène Micro22development 23 Whitewashed lichen Lichen blanchi Natural origins 24 Opaline eggshell Coquille opaline Eco friendly & 25 Fertile pollen Pollen fertile sustainability 26 Macro Cobalt Macro-Cobalt Recycled 27 Hatching Hematite Hématite éclose Cellulosic origins
PANTONE® and other Pantone LLC trademarks are the property of Pantone LLC. PANTONE Colors may not match PANTONE-identified standards. 20 Limestone skeleton Squelette calcaire 12-0404 TPX 12-0404 TCX 7527C Consult current PANTONE FASHION+HOME publications for accurate color. Pantone LLC is a wholly-owned subsidiary of X-rite, Incorporated. ©Pantone LLC,2011. All rights reserved. 21 Wooden pulp Pulpe de bois 14-1036 TPX 14-1036 TCX 7509C
19-4205 TPX 12-5203 TPX
19-4205 TCX 12-5203 TCX
Black 3C 7541C
14-4809 TPX 13-0850 TPX
14-4809 TCX 13-0850 TCX
7464C 122C
18-4244 TPX 14-3904 TPX
18-4244 TCX 14-3904 TCX
300C 5305C
WHITEWASHED LICHEN
OPALINE EGGSHELL
ISSUE ICONIQUE 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36
Heroic blood Sang héroïque Scarlet sap Sève écarlate Alabaster breath Souffle d’albâtre Protective zenith Zénith protecteur Celestial body Corps céleste Dark firmament Firmament obscur China shell Cuirasse de porcelaine Ashen standard Étendard cendré Extreme balance Reliquat extrême
19-1557 TPX 19-1557 TCX 19-1663 TPX 19-1663 TCX FERTILE POLLEN 12-4306 TPX 12-4306 TCX 16-4530 TPX 16-4530 TCX 15-4105 TPX 15-4105 TCX 19-3810 TPX 19-3810 TCX MACRO COBALT 11-1404 TPX 11-1404 TCX 14-4002 TPX 14-4002 TCX 18-5203 TPX 18-5203 TCX
201C 193C 7541C 298C 644C 533C 7604C 434C Cool Gray 10C
HATCHING HEMATITE
PANTONE® and other Pantone LLC trademarks are the property of Pantone LLC. PANTONE Colors may not match PANTONE-identified standards. Consult current PANTONE FASHION+HOME publications for accurate color. Pantone LLC is a wholly-owned subsidiary of X-rite, Incorporated.
190
RTW|Fashion Forecasts | A/W 2014-2015
Iconic Outcome
Turning back in order to better progress. Regaining reassuring origins, recalling the foundations to allow the growth of a healthier future. Repelling the failure of male chauvinists and no longer relying on the origins of the problem to be the solutions. The maternal woman regains power. Parent of humanity deprived of her throne. The curvaceous body is no longer an erotic object, but becomes a weapon. A symbol of combat, the breast no longer hides and now shows itself. The bra was burned for freedom, the breast shows itself seeking to dominate.
Sulfur mist Brume de sulfure Absurd green Vert absurde
11-0620 TPX 18-4432 TPX
11-0620 TCX 18-4432 TCX
600C 7706C
12 13 14
Strange arsenolite Étrange arsénite Poisonous dragée Dragée empoisonnée Fanatic smalt Smalt exalté
16-4610 TPX 14-4908 TPX 19-4245 TPX
16-4610 TCX 14-4908 TCX 19-4245 TCX
549C 622C 2945C
15 16
Tender spectrum Spectre tendre Shaded indiga Fard à fossette
13-1405 TPX 17-1718 TPX
13-1405 TCX 17-1718 TCX
7604C 5005C
17 18
Delectable complexion Carnation déléctable Immortal nectar Nectar immortel
18-1635 TPX 17-1656 TPX
18-1635 TCX 17-1656 TCX
696C 178C
Fashion Forecasts | A/W 2014-2015|RTW
17-1501 TPX
17-1501 TCX
422C
Limestone skeleton Squelette calcaire Wooden pulp Pulpe de bois Ebony armor Armure d’ébène
12-0404 TPX 14-1036 TPX 19-4205 TPX
12-0404 TCX 14-1036 TCX 19-4205 TCX
7527C 7509C Black 3C
23 24 25
Whitewashed lichen Lichen blanchi Opaline eggshell Coquille opaline Fertile pollen Pollen fertile
12-5203 TPX 14-4809 TPX 13-0850 TPX
12-5203 TCX 14-4809 TCX 13-0850 TCX
7541C 7464C 122C
26 27
Macro Cobalt Macro-Cobalt Hatching Hematite Hématite éclose
18-4244 TPX 14-3904 TPX
18-4244 TCX 14-3904 TCX
300C 5305C
colour ranges/gammes de couleurs
AUTUMN WINTER 2014 2015
OUTCOME
12-4305 TPX 12-4607 TPX 19-1663 TPX 19-4826 TPX 12-4306 TPX 17-4730 TPX 16-4530 TPX 15-4105 TPX 15-4415 TPX 19-3810 TPX 13-4303 TPX 11-1404 TPX 17-5102 TPX 14-4002 19-2312TPX TPX 18-5203 TPX 19-4305 TPX
12-4305 TCX 12-4607 19-1663 TCX TCX 19-4826 12-4306 TCXTCX 17-4730 16-4530 TCXTCX 15-4105 TCXTCX 15-4415 19-3810 TCX TCX 13-4303 11-1404 TCX TCX 17-5102 14-4002 TCXTCX 19-2312 18-5203 TCX 19-4305 TCX
7541C 7457C 193C 7541C5473C 298C632C 644C549C 533C427C 7604C 423C 434C5195C Cool Gray 10C 426C
ISSUE ICONIQUE
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
Subaquatic gleam Lueur subaquatique Heroic blood Sang héroïque 29Cerulean Scarletmodesty sap SèvePudeur écarlatecéruléenne Cyanophyta Cyanophyta 30 Alabaster breath Souffle d’albâtre areazenith AireZénith lagunaire 31Lagoonal Protective protecteur 32Cellular Celestial céleste blaobody BlaoCorps cellulaire 33Spectral Dark firmament Firmament obscur foam Écume spectrale 34Misty China shellCendres Cuirasseembrumées de porcelaine ashes 35Plasmatic Ashen standard cendré shadow Étendard Ombre plasmatique 36 Extreme balance Reliquat extrême Abyssal essence Essence abyssale
28
PROJECTION ONIRIQUE 10
Sulfur mist Brume de sulfure
19-1557 TPX
19-1557 TCX
PANTONE COATED
Rocky bone-structure Ossature rocailleuse
20 21 22
PANTONE TCX
19
AMNIOTIC ICONICINSTINCT AMNIOTIQUE INSTINCT
DREAMLIKE PROJECTION
191
PROCESSUS ANIMISTE
PANTONE TPX
colour ranges/gammes de
AUTUMN WINTER 2014 2015
ANIMIST PROCESS
10 11
201C
HEROIC BLOOD 11-0620 TPX
11-0620 TCX
600C
PANTONE® Pantonegreen LLC trademarks are the property of Pantone LLC. PANTONE18-4432 Colors may not match PANTONE-identified 11and other Absurd Vert absurde TPX 18-4432 TCXstandards.7706C Consult current PANTONE FASHION+HOME publications for accurate color. Pantone LLC is a wholly-owned subsidiary of X-rite, Incorporated. Strange arsenolite Étrange arsénite 16-4610 TPX 16-4610 TCX 549C ©Pantone12 LLC,2011. All rights reserved.
13 14 15 16 17 18
64
Poisonous dragée Dragée empoisonnée Fanatic smalt Smalt exalté Tender spectrum Spectre tendre Shaded indiga Fard à fossette Delectable complexion Carnation déléctable Immortal nectar Nectar immortel
Feeling & Materials ANIMIST
Aspects PROCESS
14-4908 TPXSCARLET 14-4908SAP TCX 19-4245 TPX 19-4245 TCX 13-1405 TPX 13-1405 TCX 17-1718 TPX 17-1718 TCX 18-1635 TPX 18-1635 TCX ALABASTER BREATH 17-1656 TPX 17-1656 TCX
622C 2945C 7604C 5005C 696C 178C
17-1501 TPX 17-1501 ZENITH TCX PROTECTIVE 12-0404 TPX 12-0404 TCX 14-1036 TPX 14-1036 TCX 19-4205 TPX 19-4205 TCX 12-5203 TPX 12-5203 TCX CELESTIAL BODY 14-4809 TPX 14-4809 TCX 13-0850 TPX 13-0850 TCX 18-4244 TPX 18-4244 TCX 14-3904 TPX 14-3904 TCX
422C 7527C 7509C Black 3C 7541C 7464C 122C 300C 5305C
201C
Fibers
PROCESSUS ANIMISTE
Deep Nature Skin aspect Skin touch Tatooed skin Feminin feeling Strong materiality Feathered Lightly revealed Organic origin Bloody native ICONIC Sky thankingOUTCOME Nature inspirating Folk warrior Traditional sign New military pattern Contemporary aesthetic Original spirit
19 Rocky bone-structure Ossature rocailleuse Delicate Touch 20 Limestone skeleton Squelette calcaire Sensual feeling 21 Wooden pulp Pulpe de bois Strong efficiency 22 Ebony armor Armure d’ébène Natural origin 23 Whitewashed lichen Lichen blanchi Eco friendly 24 Opaline eggshell Coquille opaline Raw and tough 25 Fertile pollen Pollen fertile Gentle & smooth 26 Macro Cobalt Macro-Cobalt Opposition of appearance 27 Hatching Hematite Hématite éclose Structured Multi twisted
DARK FIRMAMENT
ISSUE ICONIQUE 28
Heroic blood Sang héroïque
19-1557 TPX
29 30
Scarlet sap Sève écarlate Alabaster breath Souffle d’albâtre
19-1663 TPX CHINA 19-1663 TCX SHELL 12-4306 TPX 12-4306 TCX
19-1557 TCX
193C 7541C
31 32
Protective zenith Zénith protecteur Celestial body Corps céleste
16-4530 TPX 15-4105 TPX
298C 644C
33 34
Dark firmament Firmament obscur China shell Cuirasse de porcelaine
19-3810 TPX TCX ASHEN19-3810 STANDARD 11-1404 TPX 11-1404 TCX
533C 7604C
35 36
Ashen standard Étendard cendré Extreme balance Reliquat extrême
14-4002 TPX 18-5203 TPX
434C Cool Gray 10C
16-4530 TCX 15-4105 TCX
14-4002 TCX 18-5203 TCX
EXTreme BALANCE
PANTONE® and other Pantone LLC trademarks are the property of Pantone LLC. PANTONE Colors may not match PANTONE-identified standards. Consult current PANTONE FASHION+HOME publications for accurate color. Pantone LLC is a wholly-owned subsidiary of X-rite, Incorporated.
192
RTW|Fashion Forecasts | A/W 2014-2015
Awesome Awesemblage Mood
Extremes find common ground more than ever, from the simple and banal to the opulent and manic! Via their perfect realisation, non-curated and naïve mixinspirations become naturally wearable art pieces of handiwork. A montage of different materials, cuts, technologies, themes, layers, eras, vibes and feels reaches a higher level. The unifying element is a touch of obscurity that, nonetheless, needs no explanation. High-end manufacturing and finishing produce an innate, awesome beauty. Pop and Palais, Chrome and Lace, Craziness and Basics, Marble and Mohair, 19th century and High-Tech, Fun and Fiction, Vinyl and Moonwash, Digital and Felt, Extravagance and Boredom, Lambskin and Laser, Organic and Outerspace, Flash and Feeling, Fur and Punk – these are just a few of the combinations reflecting this year’s seasonal theme: AWESEMBLAGE.
Colours
The trend of combining Nature and Technology reveals itself through colours. Nuances reveal their natural and/or technical origins, as with grey-tones of stone and steel, clouds and concrete, or shimmering earth tones and khakis. A mixture of cinnamon and copper results in our main colour this year: Cuprum. Pastels turn down their intensity with a light haze of grey, looking as wintry as bleached-out frescoes. Strong, blooming reddish hues are experienced, from soft ‘La Vie en Rose’ tones to more intense variations, as well as purples, pinks, and dark, momentous burgundies. Powerful inspiration comes from the Scandinavian, northern hemisphere – with cool, arctic, icy greens and blues reaching fromemerald and petrol up to lapis lazuli. The naturally “high-tech” Aurora Borealis shines its trueNorthern Light. Metals are current in coppers and bronzes. Intense colours are less important, but are still strong in sportswear, equipment, patching, prints,motives, and for a touch of joie de vivre.
Fabrics
Adding to an already rich spectrum of fabrics – from super-light nylons to voluminous coats or finely spun laces to Baroque jacquards – comes now their mix. Cuddly wool shells get equipped with membranes and lace appliqués. Metalliccoatings get mixed with velvets and prints. Other important specifications are: lots of volume with little weight, typical menswear fabrics for womenswear, freemoving surfaces in uni-jacquards, padding motives, as well as many technical finishes for natural fabrics and knitwear. Small patterns in print or jacquards are highly fashionable for men, as are corduroy and fustagnos.
Cut+Styling
Here too extreme mixtures are of special importance, whether in the form of hightech, intarsia-style patching or mixed-style garment combos like glossy-chrome with washed-out cotton, macramé with techno-wraps, or biker jackets with pleated trousers. XXXL-size shirts and sweatshirts as dresses, wide shoulders combined with slim or corseted waists are all hyper-current. Short-coats in A- or O-line and doublebreasted coats are styled in 80’s oversize. For men, a departure from normal proportions is noticeable though more restrained. A sexy femininity is still at play with lots of stretch, cut-ins and –outs, lace variations, and countless possibilities to use transparency. The crowning glory of AWESEMBLAGE is for fashion victims, quite literally, the double-haircut, two styles at once.
Fashion Forecasts | A/W 2014-2015|RTW
Inner Landscape Calm – feeling, sensing, and emotions are given space. The Inner Landscape spreads out poetically, romantically, and reduced in us. The High-Tech and the Natural alternate in a play of tension and release. Scandinavian interior design forms the basis of this stylistic language, with clear lines and a touch of retro, realised with ultramodern techniques. Enveloping, oversize jackets and coats reflect generosity and modernity, underlined by round forms in solid materials and soft fabrics with corseted waists. Capes in myriad creative variations bundle together diverse elements such as coolness, playfulness, and elegance. 17-1223 TCX
12-1108 TCX
14-0615 TCX
14-1418 TCX
17-1610 TCX
12-0619 TCX
17-1022 TCX
17-4020 TCX
Inter Century A Marlene Dietrich chic resonates through all creative interpretations. A classic feel – musical, material, and stylistic – is the foundation as different eras mix together. Aristocratic looks from the 19th century are broken up and loose their stiff correctness through their mix with technical materials. Savile Row-style business suits in various masculine designs are combined hyper-exactly with couturelike patchworking. Old Couture is recalled by form experiments with too much width. Haute Casual reveals itself in men’s coats with the exaggerated width of the 80’s. They produce an adult Boyfriend Look for women and bring out the gender-crossing elegance of this theme. 12-4306 TCX
14-1210 TCX
19-4008 TCX NEW
14-1210 TCX
19-1334 TCX
18-1210 TCX New
19-1718 TCX
17-3911 TCX New
193
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RTW|Fashion Forecasts | A/W 2014-2015
Parallax Parallax results from a perspectival displacement, making phenomena and objects appear different than they actually are. Unfamiliar and altered points of view inspire new proportions, designs, and thoughts to form. Optical illusions, hybrid forms, and deformations are important elements for a futuristic design of the future. The space shuttle looks of Mister Spock or Superwoman serve as bodyhugging basic silhouettes. Ergonomic lines, functional or decorative, return for a stylish re-entry. Offset knit and jersey patterns get an especially renewed swing. These are combined with wide astronaut jackets, vests and coats, or more feminine V-line cuts. 14-0826 TCX
17-3925 TCX
18-1029 TCX NEW
19-3810 TCX
18-5418 TCX
18-1651 TCX
14-5002 TCX
18-0521 TCX
Pop´N Palais The extroverted rock star David Bowie is the inspiration for the Pop’n Palais theme. Relishing in a boundless, luxurious life: a hint of 70’s-era Rive Gauche with some elegant experimentation, a pinch of the rich, architectonic Baroque, a dash of kitsch and Pop from the 80’s and 90’s, and a shot of Russia with an excess of pomp – this is the recipe for a colourful joie de vivre. Narcissism makes a dramatic entrance and becomes a trend.
19-5226 TCX
18-1244 TCX
18-1663 TCX
17-2627 TCX
19-0915 TCX
16-0836 TCX
19-3952 TCX
19-2428 TCX
Fashion Forecasts | A/W 2014-2015|RTW
Happy@Tech
Kids & Fun
Although the pure, unaltered joy of childhood is often lost during the trip through adulthood, with a lot of humour we get back to those easygoing days. We make an effort and let ourselves be carried away by those beautiful and funny things in life to which we are literally drawn. Something like a Dickensian Spirit of Christmas brings along laughter, love, and joy, and away we go: With Get Lucky music in our ears we’re already in the midst of a childlike trip to a happy “I”. In snow-white forests, passing by a softly roaring winter’s beach with a stiff breeze, up into the treetops towards the gloriously shining sun or into dreams of Alice in Wonderland. Curiosity, fun, and lots of humour inspire our imagination. 17-1223 TCX
16-1363 TCX NEW 16-3915 TCX NEW
19-1532 TCX
17-1610 TCX
18-6330 TCX
19-1121 TCX
11-0601 TCX
Psy.Chic Punk
Denim/Bluezone
Design Punk rebels at our denim festival, combining bravery with anger in extreme looks that are aggressive in spirit and exaggerated in expression. Heavy, rocking biker elements like big zippers and perfecto-forms boogie along with dark heavy metal motives in unicolour, transparent, or macro-print. Slim‘n stretch remains a key silhouette. This is supplemented by a touch of couture-like oversize widths. In geometric or clear cut-throughs, patches are progressive. Glamour punk shows up with metallic and chrome surfaces. Various jean types are creatively mixed: raw with vintage, raw with raw, or used with used. 16-4703 TCX NEW
19-0810 TCX
16-1325 TCX
19-3926 TCX
18-0510 TCX
19-3940 TCX
19-5414 TCX
14-5002 TCX
195
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