ScreenWear
GLOBAL
Issue 1 | December 2020
WHY GO DIGITAL? A look at all the reasons why you should try AR lenses
STYLE POSES From laid back poses to posing in pairs
VINTAGE DIGITAL Classic fashion spreads get a digital makeover
ScreenWear
GLOBAL
CONTENTS
DECEMBER 2020 FASHION & STYLE Laid Back Luxury: Be Stylish, Be Horizontal 34 Opera Night: Styling Tips 74 Perfect Pairings: Digital-Analogue Style Synergies 76 Party Hardy: Just Find a Baroque Mansion and Go Nuts 94 Digital Vintage: Vintage Fashion Shoots Get a Makeover 109 ARTICLES Why Fashion Lenses? 30 4 Common Digital Garment Mistakes And How You Can Avoid Them 5 Steps Anyone Can Follow
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How to Explain Fashion Lenses to Your Boss
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SPECIAL FEATURES Private Lives of Digital Garments: “I Feel Violated”
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All About FeiFei : Contortionist/Supermodel Escapes to the Gallery 124
Editor's Note This issue celebrates the new energies of digital couture layered onto magazine images we love.
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The fashion industry is already in crisis. Overproduction, labour exploitation, carbon emissions, growing landill piles of low quality fast fashion, garments bought on impulse and never worn, lack of diversity, gutting the soul out of pure craftsmanship, true aesthetic creation and respect for the environment and who we are. And now a global pandemic. Isn’t it amazing this digital revolution how you can just get online and wear a piece of clothing without having to go to all the hassle of putting your arms and legs through tubes like regular clothing. There is so much great reading and imagery in this issue, so let’s you, like me, get utterly inspired and be moved to tears and joy and maybe experience a bit of irritation in between. Together. ROSANNA LI Editor-in-Chief SCREENWEAR MAGAZINE | 15
www.screenwear.com.au
ScreenWear Editor-in-chief Rosanna Li
Creative Director Executive Producer Photo Director Production Director Senior Editor Design Editor Design Director Digital Director Fashion Director Advertising Director Senior Editorial Assistant Editorial Assistant Art Director Deputy Photo Editor Photo Assistant Senior Designer Junior Designers Researchers Staff Writers Contributing Writer Contributing Photographer Contributing Illustrator
Rosanna Li Rosanna Li Rosanna Li Rosanna Li Rosanna Li Rosanna Li Rosanna Li Rosanna Li Rosanna Li Rosanna Li Rosanna Li Rosanna Li Rosanna Li Rosanna Li Rosanna Li Rosanna Li Rosanna Li, Rosanna Li Rosanna Li, Rosanna Li Rosanna Li, Rosanna Li Rosanna Li Rosanna Li Rosanna Li
EDITORIAL OFFICE Rosanna's house, Melbourne, Australia +61 4886662226 | info@screenwear.com.au Screenwear is published by Blurb Publishing Group Blurb Printer Location Australia | www.blurb.com www.screenwear.com.au
THE STYLE SECTION
www.screenwear.com.au | 18
BYTE ME GLOBAL
ANALYSIS
WHY FASHION LENSES ? BY ROSANNA LI Our online identities are growing more
Luxury fashion labels are catching on to digital
important. Across all age groups, people are
lenses: Burberry, Iris van Herpen, Gucci‌ have
becoming more active online, often with
recently commissioned digital artists to create face
numerous accounts eg. Facebook, Instagram,
lenses that complement their garment collections
TikTok, Twitter, LinkdIn, Tumblr, personal websites. Augmented reality lenses, wearing clothes through a screen seems faddish, but there might be more to it.
when projected onto models’ faces. Social media lenses are popular whether we love or hate them and will most likely be a last part of our screen landscape. They can add a new visceral dimension to our sterile screen experience.
The fashion industry wastes a lot of natural resources. Nuff said. AR lenses expand fashion experiences without needing all that fabric.
Dancing in front of your laptop at a Zoom party just feels wrong. Unless you are super-extroverted, somehow we need another layer, a digital filter or
COVID 19 and Pandemic lockdowns have left us
lens that is a part of us but also performs for us and
questioning the importance of fashion. No doubt
lets us retain our position as the viewer, even when
this is a temporary thing, with transport disruptions
we are being viewed. Just like IRL garments,
to the supply chain being reinstated at some point
providing a bit of modesty and making us feel less
in the future, but in the retail shutdowns of the high
like we are under a microscope.
street, many have gone online to buy clothes or simply bought less.
We humans hunger for tangible material experiences. IRL Clothing can give us softness,
Questioning our incessant fast fashion addiction has
patterns, things we can feel on our skin.Obviously a
been good. At the same time, fashion is arguably a
digital garment will not keep you warm. But maybe
deep part of our material culture and enriches us so
there is a place for them to help fill our infinite
we still need it. Digital garments might be a way we
fashion needs on a finite planet.
can still enjoy fashion at higher rates of consumption sustainably.
FASHION
Get Horizontal Laid back luxury is daydreaming into free space, where your mind wanders deliciously from moment to moment.
FOUR DIGITAL GARMENT MISTAKES TO AVOID
Screenwear examined the best techniques for getting the most out of an augmented reality garment experience. There are four main pitfalls to avoid.
Screenwear|
Words Rosanna Li Photography Rosanna Li
Too Close for Comfort
Body in a Ball
If you are constantly seeing the message “Look for Body”, or nothing seems to be happening, chances are you are standing too close to the camera and it can’t find you! Step back and relax! Your full body should be comfortably in view of the camera, before it will map the digital garment onto you. Remember, heads, shoulders, knees and toes!
While head-in-hands, broody, crouching-against-a-wall poses can be evocative and poignant, the camera simply does not see a body at all, and in its desperate attempt to map a garment, may end up projecting mini forms in random places like your neck or shoulder. Avoid like a Department Store Boxing Day Sale mosh pit.
Single Pose Your side view is cute. But remember to vary it up with front poses, swirl-arounds, and even throw in some backview hair flicks, so that the digital garment is not stuck in one configuration.
THE STYLE SECTION
“In photography there is a reality so subtle that it becomes more real than reality.”
Shadow Dancer Bright, well lit areas work best for digital garments which are themselves made of light emitting phosphor pixels and don’t reflect sunlight like IRL surfaces. So don’t have your face in the shadows wearing this kind of garment or you will be eclipsed.
ALFRED STIEGLITZ
www.screenwear.com.au | 45
THE PRIVATE LIVES OF
DIGITAL GARMENTS By Rosanna Li Photographs by Rosanna Li
No-one could blame a digital garment for feeling over it every now and then. Just recently, an unsuspecting powder blue chiffon digital gown with fuschia embroidery, forest meadow pumps and wildlife embellishments got completely swamped when, in the space of 24 hours, it was prompted to perform 50K times, without compensation, adjusting to different body types, body movements, tracking, tracking, tracking... Sounds unbelievable? Data don’t lie... Always on call, 24/7 globally, wherever there is internet connection, serving the insatiable appetites of social media fashionistas, wanting faster and faster fashion “bytes”. Find Body, Track, Repeat. Although international institutions are in place to identify and prevent human forced labour, it appears digital
garments do not yet have a voice, no institutional setup that recognizes the hours of unpaid labour in the emerging digital fashion system. To complicate matters further, the work of a digital garment is of an extremely sensitive, intimate nature. In an anonymous interview with a digital garment, we shall call him Larry, we learnt that digital garments must attach themselves constantly to ankles, knees, hips, necks, elbows, wrists, shoulders, some even having to go as far as noses, ears and eyes. With constant paparazzi-like attention being shared on social media to widespread intense human gaze, it is no surprise that feeling violated is an occupational hazard.
SCREENWEAR
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“Everyone wants a byte out of you”
FASHION
Perfect Pals
Analog and digital garments synergize like BFFs
DECEMBER 2016
TECHNOLOGY
POSTMODERN PAINTING. Stella alternately paints in oil and watercolor
5 STEPS ANYONE CAN FOLLOW by Rosanna Li Photos by Rosanna Li
This kind of technology is not only super fun, but very easy to use.
Visit www.screenwear.com.au Order an outfit Send a photo of yourself and a 60 second video
“AR is a no-brainer”
Wait for your digitally styled results to be delivered via email.
- Virtual Showroom Company ORDRE Ceo, Simon Lock
Post yourself wearing the digital outfit to your social media accounts.
SCREENWEAR MAGAZINE |
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FASHION
Party Hardy
Just find a Baroque mansion and go nuts
FASHION
Digital Vintage Vintage fashion shoots get a digital makeover
all about feifei Noone can Bend It Like FeiFei. The enigmatic contortionist from CLO3D Avatar Library, now a rising supermodel, still finds time to steal moments at her favourite gallery.
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SCREENWEAR
Trend
DIGITAL ADVANTAGE
Analysis
We will never give up physical clothes because they keep us warm and provide modesty and fashion, but there are some advantages of digital garments.
PILLING
By Rosanna Li
Unless you are one of those OCD people that love scratching away for hours at a beloved but poor fabric quality white duffel coat from Zara with the pilling comb, you will know that when your sleeves start growing wild colonies of miniballs, it is time for some screenwear. A clean digital garment layer will not only add some energy to that duffel you never thought you’d see, but take the attention off that unsightly pilling.
COST Gucci, Dior, Lanvin, Chanel, that’s what dreams are made of. In stark contrast, $20 bills and some loose change, that’s what your wallet guts cry out. Ouch. I know, reality bytes, but this is where screenwear comes to your rescue. Quick wiggle of your fingers on the mobile and the next minute you are head to toe immersed in couture embellishment.
STAINS Everyone enjoys the odd Whopper and fries after a big night out. But extra ketchup in the heat of the moment is always a recipe for disaster. I’m talking dribbles, crusted blobs of smelly distraction. Stains are like lost souls that have gone astray, never to reach their mission in life, to reach your holy tastebuds. Okay sympathy points to you and your crusty blobs but now let’s address the style situation. Wouldn’t a nice digital layer of screenwear give everything a lift?
WWW.FRAMEMAG.COM | 20
boss
Explaining Screenwear to your
by Rosanna Li, Contributing Editor and Career Clothing Consultant
Timing is key: Pay attention to when your boss is clicking on websites like ASOS, and Net-aPorter during their down time so you can contact them during that time when you know they are also feeling blasé about their own IRL wardrobe. Admit (some of ) your fashion crimes: We all have a past. We’ve all done things we aren’t proud of but learned from. That perm. Allowing your underwear to show through your outfit, dirty and smelly clothes, unironed clothes that should definitely be ironed, heels you can’t walk in. Digital garments not only solve all of these problems but you can be known as someone who's digitally-savvy, ecoconscious, and downright forward-thinking. List the advantages to the company:
How you tell your boss you’re feeling blasé about your workplace dress code is a delicate matter, especially during a pandemic. You don’t want to come across as overly negative, but you also don’t want to sugarcoat your dissatisfaction, either. Covid lockdown online meetings have brought their own wardrobe challenges. Thankfully there’s no better time than working from home in lockdown to make your point about a digital work dress alternative.
Virtual meetings are a platform where you and your colleagues can shine. Let’s face it, when we’re communicating digitally, we need to dress for the occasion. Digitally. Automaticallyfit-to-any-body-type digital garments are therefore the key to greater productivity and morale boosting during COVID lockdown. No cleaning, pressing or any of those past fashion faux-pas. These days, a happy successful employee needs to be fit-for-screen.