NZToday - RV Travel Lifestyle Special Edition Best of South Island Walk and Cycle Trails

SPECIAL COLLECTORS’ EDITION NZTODAY BEST OF SOUTH ISLAND WALK & CYCLE TRAILS | QUEEN CHARLOTTE TRACK | LINK PATHWAY | LABYRINTH ROCKS GOLDEN BAY | GREAT TASTE TRAIL TASMAN | HAMMER SPRINGS ST JAMES | ALPS 2 OCEAN CYCLE TRAIL | ROXBURGH GORGE TRAIL OTAGO | CENTRAL OTAGO RAIL TRAIL | AROUND THE MOUNTAINS QUEENSTOWN | LAKE TO LAKE FIORDLAND | OLD GHOST ROAD BULLER | WILDERNESS TRAIL WEST COAST | PAPAROA TRACK | PIKE 29 MEMORIAL TRACK WEST COAST

NZTODAY & RV LIFESTYLE COLLECTION

Best of So ut h I s l a nd

Walk & Cycle Trails

MARLBOROUGH – Queen Charlotte Track, Link Pathway and Wairau Lagoon GOLDEN BAY – Coppermine Trail and Labyrinth Rock Park HAMMER SPRINGS ST JAMES CONSERVATION PARK MT COOK TO ŌAMARU – Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail OTAGO – Roxburgh Gorge Trail and Otago Central Rail Trail SOUTHLAND – Queenstown trails and Around the Mountains FIORDLAND – Twin Lakes trail and Routeburn Track BULLER – Old Ghost Road and Kawatiri River Trail WESTLAND – Wilderness Trail, Lake Kaniere and Brunner, Paparoa-Pike 29 Memorial Track

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NZTODAY & RV LIFESTYLE COLLECTION

South Island Best of

Walk & Cycle trails Following the Kawarau River in the Gibbston Valley Photo Queenstown Trail

NZTODAY & RV LIFESTYLE COLLECTION

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B e st of S outh Is lan d

Walk & Cycle Trails

16 26 22 90 96 10 100

109 120

116 42

84 56

64

70 78 50

Riding between the boulders of Skyline Ridge (credit Hage Photo)

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CONTENTS Marlborough 10 Queen Charlotte Track – breathtaking views from this historical trail, a must do in the Marlborough Sounds 16 Link Pathway – from Anakiwa to Picton following Queen Charlotte Sound 22 Wairau Lagoon Walkway – perfect for bird lovers, families and nature lovers Tasman – Golden Bay 26 Coppermine Trail – a cycle loop around Dun Mountain for grade 3-4 riders 30 Labyrinth Rock Park – walking trails, caves and waterfalls to explore Hanmer Springs Canterbury 36 St James Conservation Park – cycle and walking trails close to the famous spa and hot springs of Hanmer village Mackenzie – Mt Cook to Ōamaru 42 Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail – running from Aoraki/Mt Cook to Ōamaru, this is one of the longest and most spectacular rides in New Zealand Otago 50 Roxburgh Gorge Trail – a stunning ride along the gorge, with a 13km jet boat trip to finish off a perfect day 56 Otago Central Rail Trail – New Zealand’s oldest cycle trail, the trail everyone should have on their must-ride list Southland 64 Queenstown trails – from the heart of Lake Wakatipu to the vineyards of the Gibbston Valley 70 Around the Mountains – 180km of stunning scenery from Southland to North Otago Fiordland 78 Twin Lakes Trail – exploring Te Anau and Manapouri Lakes 84 Routeburn Track –from Glenorchy to Routeburn Flats, one of the nine Great Walks West Coast 90 Buller – Old Ghost Road, a challenge in the mountains that’s not for the faint-hearted 96 Kawatiri River Trail – perfect for its native bush, tidal estuaries, beach, historical relics and birdlife, and you’re never far from art and craft galleries or a café 100 Pike 29 Memorial and Paparoa track – a sneak peak at the development of the first Great Walk to be built in over 30 years 109 Greymouth – The Wilderness Trail is perfect for all and coastal-lakemountain views will astound as you walk or cycle along this trail 116 Lake Kaniere – an inland gem for walking, cycling or canoeing not far from Hokitika 120 Lake Brunner – a secluded piece of paradise for watching, walking, cycling or just simply bird watching

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NZTODAY & RV LIFESTYLE COLLECTION

South Island Best of

Walk & Cycle trails

Southern Stunners

W

e are very pleased to bring to you this collection of shared South Island adventures from the pages of NZTODAY and RV Lifestyle magazines, with our writers taking everyone on personal journeys down pathways and trails some of us will never tread on personally.

We hope that others will be so inspired by these stories that they will add these trails and areas to their ‘must-do’ lists. For many more these stories will bring back incredible memories – and encourage many others to get planning to create their own memories. I know that I have been personally inspired by older members of my family as I read their online posts talking about the many trails they have completed over the last few years. So many of our RV friends have embraced and, indeed, have gained a new lease on life by throwing their leg over the trusty bicycle; admittedly with the probable addition of some electric power in order to make it just as much fun as it is healthy.

The bicycle is having a major resurgence worldwide. Studies from around the world are raving about the health, environmental and community benefits that come from walking and cycling specifically, facts that simply can’t be argued with. It is heartening on so many levels that governments both national and local, in many countries, have appropriate strategies and plans based upon the findings of these studies reaching many years into the future.

Enjoy the journeys described. Many of them are Grade 1 or 2 and are suitable for most riders; others are for the more experienced, hardy riders. It is important to understand your level of ability and match it to the trails you plan to take on; there is a plethora of information available online and at tourism i-SITEs and DOC offices around the country, so there are few surprises out there if you do a little research. What our writers do for you though is paint a word picture, and if you use Gary Patterson’s Great Rides App there’s some excellent video footage as well. What you will learn from Gary in this issue is all about his journey as he aids in the charting and tramping out of the survey track for the first Great Walk to be built in over 30 years – this is the story of the Paparoa Track and Pike29 Memorial Track.

Every time I walk on a DOC track, bridge or trail I always wonder about its designer. I am constantly giving thanks (via a song and a prayer) to the people who built the swing bridge I’m on at the time, or walking on trails that give us such amazing access to what is seriously the most beautiful country in the world. If you’re one of those people, I say it here to you and to all the people involved with volunteering, or in the local Trusts that make so many of these trails a reaility, thanks – thanks from all of us and our readers.

Be inspired and enjoy.

Editor-Publisher

Cover photos: St James Cycle Trail - Photo Hurunui Tourism | Hooker Valley track - Photo Johan Lolos

ISSN 1176-3051

NZTODAY is published by RnR Publishing Ltd Ph: + 64 6 306 6030 PO Box 220, 28 Oxford Street, Martinborough, 5711, New Zealand

Editor Robyn Dallimore E: robyn@nztoday.co.nz Sub edit + proofing team Thiers Halliwell, Allan Walton Advertising Enquiries Bruce Mountain E: bruce@nztoday.co.nz M: 021 657 090 Office / Subscriptions Laura Atkinson E: subs@RnRPublishing.co.nz Design + Production Cameron Leggett - camleggettphoto.com Contributors Gary Patterson, Matt Winter, Justine Tyerman Image + Printing PMP Maxum Auckland

Bruce Mountain uses photographic equipment

Disclaimer RnR Publishing Ltd uses due care and diligence in the preparation of this magazine, but is not responsible or liable for any mistakes, misprints, omissions or typographical errors. RnR Publishing Ltd prints advertisements provided to the publisher, but gives no warranty and makes no representation to the truth, accuracy or sufficiency of any description, photograph or statement. RnR Publishing Ltd accepts no liability for any loss that may be suffered by any person who relies either wholly or in part upon any description, photograph or statement contained herein. Advertisers are advised that all advertising must conform to the ASA Codes of New Zealand Advertising; full details and codes book available from asa.co.nz. RnR Publishing Ltd reserves the right to refuse any advertisement for any reason.

The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher or editor. All material gathered in creating NZTODAY magazine is copyright 2019 RnR Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved in all media. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without the express written permission of the publisher.

Special Edition 2019

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NZTODAY & RV LIFESTYLE COLLECTION

South Island Best of

Walk & Cycle trails

Throw a leg over The bicycle has taken over the country, with the e-bike giving all age groups the opportunity to enjoy the great trails around the country Words Robyn Dallimore

Photo Gary Patterson

PEDAL YOUR WAY TO HEALTH, BOTH PHYSICAL AND MENTAL e’re lucky in New Zealand to have 13 national parks covering around 2,000,000 hectares of land, which to paraphrase the Te Ara: The Encyclopaedia of New Zealand website, were constituted to preserve in perpetuity for the benefit and enjoyment of the public, “areas of New Zealand that contain scenery of such distinctive quality, or natural features so beautiful or unique, that their preservation is in the national interest”.

As the publishers of two magazines that work hard on taking readers on journeys to all corners of our country, we’ve featured many of our most famous walking and cycling trails. I’ve followed developments with interest since 2009 when the National Cycleway Fund was established, watching the implementation, growth and development of the New Zealand Cycle Trails.

When Tourism Minister John Key announced a $50 million budget to get that project underway, he said the aim was to generate lasting economic, social and environmental benefits for New Zealand communities through the creation of a network of world-class cycling experiences.

“The New Zealand Cycle Trail will take you off the beaten track where you’ll get to meet the locals and learn about New Zealand’s culture and heritage while enjoying our iconic scenery,” he said at the time.

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Laws on what is a bicycle See this info from the NZTA website which lays out the rules.

Power-assisted Cycles (Declaration Not to be Motor Vehicles) Notice 2013 Pursuant to section 168A(2) of the Land Transport Act 1998, and pursuant to an authority delegated to me by the General Manager, Access & Use, of the NZ Transport Agency, I, Ian Baggott, Manager Technical Support Certification & MVR, declare power-assisted cycles (as defined below) fitted with electric auxiliary propulsion motor(s) that have a combined maximum power output not exceeding 300W not to be motor vehicles.

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NZ Transport Agency information: nzta.govt.nz

Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

The National Cycleway was one of the ideas that came out of the government’s 2009 Employment Summit following the global financial meltdown of 2008. The government committed $50 million to the project over a three-year period, with additional funding of $30 million coming from regional stakeholders, sponsorship, charitable trusts and grants. This funded the construction of the Great Rides, starting with the existing popular walking tracks in reserves and national parks around the country.

A 2016 study indicated that 75 per cent of New Zealanders say they would ride a bike if more of the network met their needs. New initiatives will see a push towards easing city congestion, reducing greenhouse gas emissions, improving community social and economic opportunities as well as benefiting our health.

The Government Policy Statement 2018 supports a 10-year plan that prioritises and supports investment in liveable cities, increasing transport options around cities with investment in walking, cycling and public transport options. This plan targets the extending of existing cycling networks, linking these to public transport hubs and developing linking tourism opportunities with Urban, Heartland and Great Rides corridors up and down the country.

Along with bike safety programmes in schools and in communities, improvements in safety and accessibility for all is working in tandem with the drive to get communities mobile, encouraging work places to offer bike parking and potential incentives.

In October 2016, an evaluation report was released with respect to the New Zealand Cycle Trail, and some very interesting facts and figures came out in that report, along with a range of specific recommendations to guide and assist all the parties involved. Recommendations included the need for dedicated personnel for marketing and promoting cycle trails, the involvement of local or central government in the governance and management of each trail, dedicated resources to maintain the cycle trails, and a national body to give leadership, direction, guidance and support moving forward.

In brief, the evaluation report showed that 1.3 million people used these trails, about 86 per cent of these users were domestic travellers while 14 per cent were international travellers. Cyclists spent just over

BICYCLES Hand-in-hand with the development of cycle trails has been the sale of bikes, be it road bikes, off-road or serious mountain bikes. And as we Kiwis are a very trendy lot, we’ve leapt onto the electric bike trend that has grown hugely throughout Europe over the last 10 years.

We do love our bicycles – between 1900 and 1950 here in New Zealand nearly 800,000 bikes were imported or manufactured. During the late 1930s there was one bike for every six people, but alas, by the 1950s as cars became cheaper and more available, bikes were gradually relegated to back sheds.

Today though, there’s such a variety of styles, shapes, heights and wheel sizes it can make your head spin. I had a great retro-style bike with hand- and back-pedal brake, and no gears – a great road cruiser but terrible for off-road. Rocky has an electric bike that goes on-road, and is okay on grade 1 trails.

But if we wanted to do some off-road grade two or higher trails, we would need mountain bikes with gears, great brakes (maybe disc) and possibly suspension forks.

The Urban and Heartland trails can be concrete, asphalt or hard ground, and the Great Rides can be hard ground grade 1 easy tracks to grade 5 extreme off-road tracks over boulders and jumps.

Getting a bicycle that will suit you and where you want to go is actually quite important. The size/height of the wheels needs to be right for your body, and the tread on the tyres needs to be appropriate for where you’ll use that bike as well.

And now of course, there’s the manual or electric factor to consider.

From my perspective as a motorhome owner and traveller, the number of 75 to 85-year-old people I meet on the road whose lives have been transformed by getting out and about on a power-assisted bike leads me to say “Go for it!”

Admittedly, the price tag can make your eyes water on some models; for around $2,000 to $2,500 you can get everything you need, but if you like the real fancy carbon fibre technology, then you can blow up to $8,000 – but then road cyclists can spend thousands as well, so it really is horses for courses.

My recommendation is that you pop into your local bike shop to get some advice, then try some different height and styled bikes. Some e-bikes have an accelerator system that potentially can put them into a moped category legally with NZTA, so do check that out.

The majority are power assist, so they help you as you pedal, but they also have a jump start to give you a push off at the lights. Talk about your individual use and needs and get the bike that is right for you.

NZ Transport Agency offers great advice on electric bikes. We quote them here along with a few personal notes. Here are some top tips to help make riding an e-bike fun and comfortable for everyone.

Getting used to your e-bike E-bikes are typically heavier than regular bikes which means they handle differently. Like any new bicycle it is best to get used to how the bike handles before heading out on the road. It’s best to start somewhere where you have a bit of space and can have a go at: • Adjusting the power settings • T esting how the bike responds when stopping and starting • T urning, balancing and negotiating obstacles with different levels of power assist Remember, if the motor is in the front wheel and the bike has a throttle, go gently when cornering. The NZ Transport Agency suggest buying an e-bike with a motor located in the middle or rear of the bike, rather than the front wheel, as these generally handle much more like non-powered bikes.

Editor’s note: It is important to understand the weight of your bike in relation to your car’s bike-rack weight rating. Make sure your bike rack can handle 60kg minimum for two bikes – talk with the bike retailer about this. The batteries are heavy, so if they are removable it is advisable to take them off and carry them inside the car. If you have a motorhome you should confirm the weight capacity that can be installed onto the body or chassis.

My electric bike has a rear-wheel motor, which was recommended for my body size when purchased – the sales person tested me out on various models for body height – arm length – leg length. Whereas the bike Bruce has just ordered is a middle-motor mount; this was recommended for him as he has a larger frame and weight ratio than me, so this setup will work for his body type. Size and weight can also be a factor for wattage and torque on the motors – see separate info box.

Don’t let friends just borrow your e-bike as they will likely crash it pretty quickly. Use the same rules as above about having space to learn how the bike works. My brand-new e-bike was ‘test driven’ by a local, slightly older gentleman at a vineyard on our first day out; he accelerated and went straight into the vines and scratched it up, because he didn’t expect and couldn’t handle the sudden burst of power.

NZ Transport Agency information: nzta.govt.nz

$37 million dollars regionally.

So today, we have 22 Great Rides with trails running for 2500km through our stunning countryside, and many of these rides travel through our national parks, adding another activity for visitors.

Our key cities and towns have Urban Cycling Network tracks to entice residents to travel by bicycle, plus we have Heartland Rides connecting our Great Rides, and many smaller rural trails.

A health study has shown that being a walker puts you into a healthier category, but add in cycling and your survival rate really jumps up. The report lists savings of $12 million through reduced mortality risk and cost savings from treating diseases associated with physical inactivity.

Small communities too are benefiting from the cycleways through the growth of associated businesses providing food, hospitality, accommodation, bike hire and shuttle services, which was one of the objectives back in 2009. With this growth in new businesses, employment has increased, specifically in the hospitality sector, as these healthy walkers and cyclists seem to really enjoy eating, drinking and spending money in retail stores, aside from the obvious accommodation and rental motorhomes spending.

Darleen from Bikes and Barbers in Newmarket, here she is setting the handlebar angle for my arms Special Edition 2019

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Introduction Throw a leg over Go for a test ride of a couple of kilometres, including going up and down a hill or two if you can. Some shops will rent you a bike for a day or two so you can try it out.

My cruiser bike is no good to me except on nice flat roads, like the ones here in Martinborough – perfect. But off-road or on a track, it’s a pedalpower nightmare. Something had to be done.

I went to Bikes and Barbers of Newmarket in 2018 and got fitted for a new electric bike. I can now go off-road, up and down dale as much as I want to, with plenty of power to overtake the Rock. There’s room for a little person in a seat on the back as well as a few packages in the front basket area – I am set up and happy to hit the trails.

Photo Jason Blair

Definitions Cycle means: (a) A vehicle that has at least two wheels and that is designed primarily to be propelled by the muscular energy of the rider; and (b) Includes a power-assisted cycle.

Power-assisted cycle means a cycle to which is attached one or more auxiliary propulsion motors that have a combined maximum power output not exceeding 300W. Definition of Electric scooters or e-scooters An electric scooter is designed in the style of a traditional push scooter, with a footboard, two or three wheels, a long steering handle and an electric auxiliary propulsion motor. In order to meet the requirements for a low-powered vehicle, the wheels must not exceed 355mm and the motor must have a maximum power output not exceeding 300W. IMPORTANT – WATTAGE The maximum possible wattage stated of the electric motor is not necessarily the same as the maximum power output of the e-scooter. The rules say 300 watts is the maximum for a rail trail, but you can buy e-bikes with 500W or more motors that are legal and classed as a power assisted bike, here is the interpretation.

Maximum power output is determined by multiplying the battery voltage by the controller’s maximum amperage output. For example, a 600W motor and a 12V battery with a controller that has a maximum output of 21 amperes creates a maximum power output of 252W – so 252W is the relevant figure, even though the motor has a potential output of 600W. ED: So the 300W argument between companies and outlets selling bikes is complex, and unmeasurable in real terms for the lay person looking at a bike and its motorisation. For example the new e-bike ordered for Bruce will be 500W, but will produce less than 300W at the business end with all the factors in play, so ‘legally’ trail friendly.

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NZ Transport Agency information: nzta.govt.nz

Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

When out and about on your e-bike Safety on the roads When riding an e-bike you’ll probably be travelling at higher speeds than a regular bike. Extra caution should be taken at higher speeds. Ensure you scan well ahead, signal your movements and keep an eye out for cars turning in and out of driveways and side roads. Be aware that at intersections drivers might not expect you to start off at speed, so it’s important to be in a prominent road position and make eye contact with drivers that may turn across your path.

Power assist Because e-bikes are heavier, when taking off at an intersection or uphill, ensure that you have changed down to a low gear. Pedal assist usually kicks in on the second rotation of the pedals, so if you have it in a high/faster gear you’ll experience a surge in power and will take off quickly – make sure you allow for this. Use advanced stop boxes where possible to give you a head start.

Passing cyclists You might find yourself passing other cyclists on busy routes. When passing other cyclists make sure you pass safely.

Look behind you for traffic, and signal before pulling out. Allow sufficient space when passing and let the other people know you are passing by calling out, e.g. ‘on your right’ or by ringing your bell.

Shared paths Shared paths are for slower more relaxed travel. On a shared path you should put your e-bike in a low power setting and cycle at a speed consistent with other users so that it does not put others at risk or make them feel uncomfortable when you pass.

On the footpath the user must: • Operate the device in a careful and considerate manner • Operate the device at a speed that does not put other footpath users at risk • Give way to both pedestrians and drivers of mobility devices.

Getting the most out of your battery For long distances you can extend the battery range by using lower power settings and pedalling more.

From the nzta.govt.nz website NZ Transport Agency information: nzta.govt.nz

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Marlborough

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Queen Charlotte Track

Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

A Resounding Ride Chasing history on the Queen Charlotte Track Story Gary Patterson Photos Gary Patterson and as credited

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Marlborough

Queen Charlotte Track

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I

t’s nearly Christmas as I motor my way around the tight bends of Queen Charlotte Drive to the pretty port of Picton where my next adventure begins. The road straightens. I get a glimpse of Queen Charlotte Sound glistening in the sun, its long channel named by explorer Captain James Cook after the wife of British ruler King George III. Over the next couple of days I intend to travel from the start of Queen Charlotte Track (out near Cook Strait) to the inner reaches of the sound, a popular journey for a generation of trampers and now for a new breed of cycle explorers. It’s the last month of the year, and the first section of track is closed to summer riders giving hikers a reprieve from wheeled traffic during the peak season. I actually welcome this restriction, as it forces me into a multi-faceted journey of water taxi, walking and wheeling. So after purchasing a track pass I board a boat that cruises these sheltered waters, stopping briefly to drop off my bike partway along the track.

The boat docks at Ship Cove, the start of the track and also Captain Cook’s regular refuge. History here runs deep and is measured in fathoms.

Once off the jetty I spend some time at the monument to understand this place in history. As I stand on the pebbles of the cove, on the same ground as Cook’s men, the view I see is little changed from what Cook’s eyes must have seen nearly two-and-a-half centuries ago. The waters no longer moor tall ships, but it’s an incredible outpost and one that the famed explorer visited on five occasions, spending 100 days here to resupply during his global voyages. He described the place as a “very snug cove”, and I feel warm at the thought that this early navigator was once here. There are grand plans to celebrate the anniversary of his first landing 250 years ago in January 2020 – there is some track work taking place near the trailhead to get the site ship-shape in time for guests.

My mind snaps to the present – I have to make my own mark on history. Time to lift anchor and to plot my course through an ocean of forest; my navigation guided not by compass or stars but by circling satellites above helping me to make the Great Rides App. My first steps out of Cook’s Cove are upward and I delighted in gaining a better outlook over the snug cove. I continue through the coastal forest to

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Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

the first saddle; it’s now mid-morning and sweat drips off me in the building summer heat. This section of track is being rerouted to reduce the steep grades, and next time I come back after the celebrations this steep hill should be no sweat. As I walk, I like how the inlets are named after Cook’s vessels – I climb out of Resolution Bay and drop onto the flat track that circles Endeavour Inlet. I enjoy the sound of the waves that lap beside my tread and the rickety wooden jetties used to offload gear to holiday homes that are tucked away in the forest. Some walkers elect to stay at the various lodges I pass, but I seek my bike and tent dropped off by boat on the opposite shore at Camp Cove. After my circumnavigation of the bay I reach my gear and enjoy an ice cream at the resort. It’s time to consider my options. While camping here looks idyllic, surrounded as it is by forest only a stone’s throw from calm

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waters, I still have plenty of light and energy left for the day. I continue on.

So I leave the cove and warm up my riding legs, pointing my front tyre up towards the top of the peninsular ridgeline. With effort, eventually reach the saddle of this steeply serrated sliver of land that separates the Queen Charlotte and Pelorus Sounds.

The view up here is impressive, but as I pass Eatwells Lookout I am starting to fade. The journey to capture data for the app has been a demanding series of multi-day rides recently, and the track’s frequent hill climbs with a heavily laden bike are taking their toll. After a refreshing descent I am faced with an impossible-looking slope – in my poor state the hill looks more suited for funicular transport than riding up under my own power. I am beat. Reluctantly and slowly I push on up. If there was a low point of my ‘Great Year’ cycling all the 22 New Zealand Great Rides then this is it. Right here. But my dark thoughts don’t linger long as I crest the hill and arrive at the Bay of Many Coves campsite. Sweet relief!

I am greeted at the campsite shelter by a freshlooking German couple who are walking the entire country on Te Araroa. I’d like to stand and talk but I’m shattered with tiredness. There is no hiding my fatigue as I lean against my bike, and I am generously

4 offered a cuppa. As I drink I am quickly rehydrated and energised and soon we are in deep discussion.

Having headed south from Cape Reinga two months ago these hikers are roughly halfway through their expedition … and are they loving it! They tell me the route gives them a perfect way to explore the countryside and mountain terrain – often places most Kiwis never visit. Like Cook, these folks are on a journey of discovery of our southern land. I wish them well in the fading light, pitch my tent and bunk down.

1. The Sounds are a relaxing

place to unwind. Photo: Queen Charlotte Track Inc. 2. Ship Cove has changed little since Captain Cook’s days 3. Endeavour Inlet is trailside perfection 4. View from one of the lookouts on the trail 5. Rusty relics make for a memorable experience

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Marlborough

Queen Charlotte Track

Up with birdsong, I am renewed. A colourful sunrise beams shafts of light across the valleys to spotlight the many coves below. Feeling refreshed and in a better state of mind, I eat, pack up camp, log a waypoint and ride off towards the highest point along the track.

The trail is really starting to open up now and I am rewarded with views down to both Sounds from the ridge. I love the way the aspect of the track changes, flipping between each side of the ridge and altering the way I see light on the landscape and the many arms of the waterways. Just when the heat of the day peaks, the track dives into shadows of the cool forest that cloaks the hillside like a textured green fabric providing me with cover. Then the towering height of the ridge relents, my wheels pick up pace in a grand descent; it seems like the ridgeline is taking me for a ride, its backbone swiftly scooping down to take a sip from the saline waters. The rush of air past my helmet ceases as I reach Torea Saddle barely 100 metres above the tiny coastal settlement of Portage.

As a cartographer I love the name Portage – a place with meaning. The toponym is derived from a time when Māori carried canoes over the narrow saddle between the two Sounds, thus avoiding 100 kilometres of paddling. The saddle also features two war memorials remembering the 29 soldiers who did not return from the world wars. For a small community, the fall of this number of men must have been tough, no more so than for the grieving parents of the three Taylor brothers who

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Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

Update Box

6 never returned home. I take short detour down to Portage, and rest at Cowshed Bay camping area to dip my feet in the water and to have a late lunch.

Restored, I ride back to the saddle and continue in a south-west direction past Te Mahia saddle and down on an easier trail towards Anakiwa. Before you know it I reach Davies Bay campsite, which looks like one of the best on the track with its grassy lawns extending right down to the water’s edge. It looked like a perfect place for a dip. I grant myself another spell at this peaceful camp, the ebb of the tide like the receding amount of trail left before I return to civilisation. I could quite easily pitch my tent here and spend a day or two in recovery, a perfect place to relax and unwind from any of life’s pursuits, but

The trail has recently been realigned out of Ship Cove making for a gentler and a longer climb before dropping into Resolution Bay. This is a welcome improvement as it means the steep pinch of a climb at the northern start of the trail is now much easier. The Link Pathway that connects the end of the Queen Charlotte Track at Anakiwa to Picton and Havelock is expected to be all joined up by the end of summer.

my boat pick up awaits so I keep cycling.

The last couple of kilometres are a joy to ride and offer little glimpses of the upper Grove Arm and the settlement of Anakiwa – my journey’s end. I reach the cluster of homes and find shelter under a large tree to await the water taxi back to Picton. I save the GPS track data that records the 70 kilometres of joy and toil, and celebrate with a cool drink from the nearby shop. While sitting, sipping and talking to a local, I discover that where my journey finishes another trail begins. Had I known earlier that I could cycle back to Picton via the new Link Pathway I would have continued. The new purpose-built path is nearly finished

and links the various settlements in the area; the Trail Trust hopes to complete the missing links before the Cook anniversary celebrations commence. I will need to return to ride this new coastal trail that will connect the twin ports of Picton and Havelock.

The skipper departs and motors across the arm to complete the circuit. The sea spray keeps me awake and my weary mind wanders as my eyes follow the green slopes searching for the faint lines of the track I had pedalled hours earlier. I had enjoyed the ride, the people and the Marlborough Sounds by both boat, boot and bike. Despite my desire to camp, I passed a good range of accommodation along the way. Some people I met were shuttling their gear between lodges to reduce the burden of lugging it, while others I talked to opted for shorter day trips. I had found that this track explores heritage that is tucked away into the snug coves; it’s a ride on ridges as well as a coastal trail providing options for both comfort and challenge. For me, the Queen Charlotte Track is a resounding ride, a trail that snakes between the Sounds offering a journey of discovery of water, land, history and oneself. Like the legendary navigator who repeatedly returned to the Sounds, I too will plot my way back next time via the Great Rides App! This story featured in NZToday issue 84.

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6. The war memorial above Portage is a sobering sight 7. The bays in some inlets are mesmerising 8. The Sounds truly are a kiwi gem. Photo: Queen Charlotte Track Inc.

Statistics 72km Intermediate and Advanced Trail (Grade 3+4, still some Expert grade 5 parts) Official Links: www.qctrack.co.nz Great Rides App: Download the app free from the App Stores Special Edition 2019

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Marlborough

Link Pathway

Linking up the Queen’s Chain From Anakiwa to Picton alongside Queen Charlotte Sound Story Gary Patterson Photos Gary Patterson and as credited

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Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

I

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can still remember when I clicked on a video link and discovered the Link Pathway of the Marlborough Sounds. What I saw was cyclists whipping along a forest path following the turquoise coastal arms that wrap around headland points and seemingly endless bays. The drone footage of hikers and bikers looked surreal.

Their joy! Their journey! Theirs was a role that I so wished to be cast in … and I was in luck. It just so happened that the Great Rides App annual cycling pilgrimage crossed this path; to pass up on this new ride would be unforgivable to me, so in autumn I entered the location of Linkwater into my Garmin GPS unit and scouted out the trail.

In planning the trip, I decide to ride from Anakiwa to Picton, a journey all linked up now. Last time I rode the Queen Charlotte Track, the options to return to Picton were either by road or water taxi as the trail was still incomplete. Today I start my journey at Anakiwa, being the end of the Queen Charlotte Track, and will pedal all the way to Picton on a purpose-built cycle trail. Before I head off I flick on the GPS units, enter a waypoint and start making tracks in both a digital and physical sense. It’s hard not to enjoy this section of the Link Pathway. The easy course seamlessly wraps around the points and bays of the inner reaches of the Queen Charlotte Sound. My senses alive, I enjoy the sound of the lapping water, the saline smells and the view of the changing landscape. Soon the turquoise waters (just like the hues I remember from the video) over my left shoulder become brackish and brown as the reach of the Grove Arm ends and I meet up with Queen Charlotte Drive.

To the right and westward, the trail has yet to be linked to Havelock, so I turn left and head east to The Grove on the shore opposite Anakiwa.

Once a mill town named after an extensive grove of kahikatea that once stood here, today the hamlet is an idyllic collection of coastal baches.

I slow my pace to appreciate the arty animalised letterboxes along the route – as I enter the community a jersey cow box greets me, followed by a tuatara, a dog and a pigeon.

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Marlborough

Link Pathway

Then I spot my favourite, perched and seemingly floating above the road with googly eyes that watch me from the opposite bank, a fat red staring snapper. I wonder if the posties on their deliveries have their favoured ones too? Do they prefer to hook into a snapper than receive a nip from a poised terrier letterbox?

As I ride by I wonder whether the joy of comic characters will be lost in this electronic age, where aerial mail will return not as pigeon post but as parcel drones whirring down from the sky(?) – questions that are posted in the depths of my mind; whimsical ponderings triggered by an unusual find.

2 On leaving the village I pass a collection of boatsheds, each one a different colour, with rusty ramps that disappear into the shallows. At this point, I am riding through the coastal forest as the trail takes me right beside the tide line.

So close in fact, that the shimmering light on the water dazzles me until the path rises and curves away and the water becomes just an occasional twinkle through the canopy. This gentle gravel track takes me on a journey nz that twists around headlands, and each time it does it offers me a new bay to explore. This is coastal riding at itsnz best. The last prominent point offers a glimpse of the half-circle shape of Momorangi Bay. The first thing I discover is how this Department of Conservation camping spot goes right down to the water’s edge. While quiet today, I suspect it’s a popular and traditional Kiwi holiday site at other times of the year, being TM

a scenic and idyllic spot with services. I think that next time I visit will be with our caravan in tow. How much better it would be to stay on the trail than in more urban confines? Had it been a summer’s day I would be in for a swim, but today I head inland to climb the hills behind the bay. The brief ascent of the hill is worth the climb as I am rewarded by one of the most scenic views of the inner Queen Charlotte Sound. At a lookout, I stop for a moment and drink it all in. Far below me through the vegetation is Queen Charlotte Drive snaking along the coastline; there are homes tucked into the scrub, and the telltale criss-cross patterns of boat wakes highlight activities on the water. For my terrestrial pursuit, it’s time to return to the saddle and descend into Ngakuta Bay. TM

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If I thought Momorangi Bay was semicircular then Ngakuta is almost a fully enclosed cove; a sheltered spot for a scattering of boats that are moored just offshore. Then … surprise! At the bay the trail suddenly peters out onto the golden sands and the pathway for a hundred metres or so is just the beach, a delightful experience. I hug the shoreline by the incoming tide, my tread pattern wobbling left for the tide to consume. I love the raw sense of nature I feel as I leave the formed trail and mingle with the grit. It’s even more invigorating when the sand gets too soft to ride and I remove my shoes to leave both foot and tyre prints behind. There is something primeval about this simple act and I celebrate it – it is now part of my rich journey. If the promotional video film crew was present I think I would have been captured at this moment, just for a split second – no lush flowing-haired handsome model, just a middle-aged biker, but so alive in the moment. As I move off the beach I enjoy the green space of the bay’s coastal reserves and boardwalks before I head inland to encounter a steep and grunty climb. Fortunately, the grade eases quickly when I reach the benched face of a 150-year-old bridle track. The Link Pathway uses this old pack track on much of its course. During the construction of the pathway, many trail-building relics and dry-stone walls were discovered which all add value to the ride. The bridle trail that gently traverses the hillside now forms the backbone of this new linking path.

A long yet gentle climb lifts me to the trail’s high point which gives me some relief as it’s mostly downhill to Picton from here. A few miles beyond the top I reach a small side trail on a hairpin corner, and I am intrigued enough that I follow this rough track, whatever it might hold. A short walk leads me to some ruins covered in scrub. I later learn that this was the Wedge Point WW2 signal station that was recently rediscovered by trail designers. There were once several blocks of offices, barracks and telecommunication buildings – most were removed after the war and what remains of the complex was reclaimed by forest. I soon come across the concrete foundation of the signal station, like an Incan temple hidden for ages.

Maybe I have watched too many Indiana Jones movies? These ‘Incan temples’ seem to be all through the New Zealand I inhabit. The station was once a wartime outpost ready to identify and report ships as they navigated these sheltered waters; today the station has lost its views to the trees and appears forgotten in time. From an elevated spot on a now overcast day my mind fails to picture how the station looked back in its heyday, as it’s no longer a barren ridgeline lookout. The trees are on the march. I return to the main trail with more unanswered questions, but I feel at ease with a touch of enlightenment.

The pathway plunges downhill, lined with umbrellalike ponga fronds offering shelter from the pre-frontal drizzle. I keep my eyes on the freshly laid yet slick trail, but eventually I look up to see orderly timber stacks awaiting export at the Shakespeare Bay port

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4 terminal. Picton is just around the corner. I can see a Cook Strait ferry coming into port. My bike is picking up the pace and it’s hard to guess who will dock first. I fly down the last metres of the pathway and hit the asphalt, taking care to avoid traffic waiting to float to Wellington. I reach the promenade and glance across to see the ship already shifting cargo – it seems there is no mucking around for these moving bridges of the strait.

After my adventure, I take the opportunity to meet up with the trail manager in Havelock, back at the opposite end of the pathway. Seated outside at a waterfront café I look to the horizon to see another stretch of the pathway’s bridle track descending to the fishing village. Linking cycle trails between communities is the Link Pathway Trust’s vision and they are quickly achieving that goal. From our discussions, it seems they have ambitious dreams.

In the future, they hope to link Blenheim, Pelorus

1. Time to log a ride then

take a break (credit Link Pathway Trust) 2. Enjoying the elevated views from the pathway over the Marlborough Sounds (credit Link Pathway Trust) 3. The golden sands of the path on the beach 4. Climbing high above the Queen Charlotte Sound

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Link Pathway

Trail update

The trail is making steady progress with joining up the Linkwater flats to the already completed Havelock trail section. The trail connection is expected to be complete by the end of this summer.

Once the trail is connected the trail trust will construct the Havelock foreshore extension path and boardwalks into town.

The next stage once the trail has reached Havelock is planning for the extension of the Link Pathway to Pelorus Bridge.

5 Bridge and Nelson. With most of the trail between Picton/Havelock/ Anakiwa built, they are on track to reach their target completion date of the January 15, 2020 to coincide with the 250th anniversary of Captain Cook arriving in the Marlborough Sounds.

With the high quality of trail they are building, the scenic beauty of the landscape it passes through and the rich history of the pathway, hitting their target date will be an outstanding achievement. Once the word gets out to both hikers and bikers I can see many visitors extending their trip on the Queen Charlotte Track. Imagine leaving Picton by boat to reach the start of the Queen Charlotte Track at Ship Cove, the outer extremity of the Sound, and returning some days later entirely by walking or wheeling, on a grand circuit. Even better, finish the track and ride to Nelson on a cycle trail before cycling Tasman’s Great Taste

Trail, all without ever being on the main road! I can’t wait to ride the remaining (still incomplete) path and to join the Trust at the joint celebrations of the anniversary of Cook’s arrival and the completion of the Link Pathway in 2020. This is a clear vision that I think will set off a cycling chain reaction of visitors flocking to a linking pathway that connects the top of the South. Take action! Be part of the pathway, cast yourself in the role … I know I did!

This story featured in NZToday issue 85.

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5. Quaint boatsheds of The Grove 6. Evening light on the Sounds

Statistics

42km Easy to Intermediate Trail (Grade 2–3) Official Links: facebook.com/The-Link-Pathway-365588383523911 Great Rides App: Download the app free from the App Stores 20

Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

Marlborough

Wither Hills, Riverlands

WAIRAU LAGOONS WALKWAY

Marlborough’s Wairau Lagoons Walkway provides a delightful insight into the habitat the lagoons create and the birdlife they sustain. The walk is virtually flat so it’s ideal for kids and the not-so-agile Story + Photos Matt Winter

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Royal spoonbills in breeding plumage on the oxidation pond island

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Marlborough

Wither Hills, Riverlands

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he Wairau Lagoons cover an area of 2400 hectares of wetland and salt marshes, on the Pacific coast just to the east of Blenheim.

The lagoons formed over thousands of years behind an eight kilometre-long boulder bank created from gravel and stones washed up the coast by sea currents. Water from the surrounding hills gathers behind the boulder bank and combines with the tide coming in and out, to create perfect living conditions for plants and animals between the high and low water marks.

The resulting birdlife in the area is prolific, with around 90 species being recorded, making it a fantastic place to see a large variety of endemic, native and introduced birds.

From archaeological sites on the boulder bank, the area is recognised as the earliest-known site of human occupation in New Zealand. Because of the abundance of bird and fish life, early Māori were drawn there to hunt for food – many of the lagoon’s channels were physically made or 2 extended to help trap moulting birds or eels. The White Bluffs at the southern end of the lagoons dominate the view to the south, and were known historically as the dividing line between Ngāi Tahu and tribes to the north.

THE WALK The Wairau lagoons walkway carpark is situated at the very end of Hardings Road, which leaves SH1, five kilometres south of central Blenheim. A Department of Conservation sign just inside the swinging gate entrance lets you know that the walk will take approximately three hours to complete along the loop-style track. But it’s not a hard three hours because the track is completely flat all the way, and my GPS track log informed me it’s 7.8km long.

Initially the track takes you along a couple of hundred metres of gravelled path. At the end of this path, just before it pops over a stopbank, there’s a short well-worn track to the right that takes you over a wire fence and up onto another small bank. From on top, you’ll be looking over the oxidation ponds, including an island out in the middle. This island is a popular and safe haven for quite a few species of birds that use the spot for resting, loafing and breeding.

If you’re lucky, you might get to see one or several glossy ibis. These

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very colourful and odd-looking waders are rare vagrant visitors from Australia. The first individual turned up a few years ago followed by a couple of birds a few seasons later. Two years ago, three fledgling ibis were observed on the island, making it the first site in New Zealand where glossy ibis have successfully bred.

Royal spoonbills gather at this site too and also breed on the island. There can be anywhere from a handful of these large, very elegant white birds to a couple of dozen at any one time. Other birds that frequent the island are swans, mallard and grey duck, grey teal, paradise duck, blackbacked gulls, red-billed gulls, New Zealand scaup, shoveler duck and Canada geese.

Back on the main track, continue along it for 350 metres to an intersection: from here you can choose to go left or right, both options will bring you back to that same point. The right-hand path skirts along the shoreline of the upper lagoon and past Budges and Moerepo Islands, to the lagoons’ main channel. Along the way are several smaller channels and shallow ponds close to the track that are worth ‘poking your nose into’ for a chance to see other bird species such as pied stilts.

Once alongside the main channel, keep your eye out for several species of shags resting on the many driftwood logs, along with gulls feeding out on the mud flats. On several occasions at this part of the walk, I’ve seen bar-tailed godwits, the tiny wrybill (the only bird in the world with a laterally-curved bill), pied stilts, black-fronted terns and white-faced heron.

An hour and 45 minutes from the signposted intersection sees you at the rusting hulk of the SS Waverley, built in 1883 primarily as a cargo ship but which could also cater for 42 passengers. In 1928, after 45 years of service, she was towed from Wellington by the SS Wairau to the mouth of the Wairau River, where she was to be sunk to form a breakwater. However, before the actual scuttling took place, she was swept up the channel in a flood to where she now lies. Interestingly, the NZ Army used her for target practice.

On the bank right alongside Waverley is a picnic table which provides an ideal stopping point for a bite to eat with grand views of Mt Robertson and other lower lying hills around Port Underwood to the north.

After a restful bite to eat and perhaps a drink of tea from your

Wairau Lagoons Walkway at a Glance

There’s a carpark situated at the end of Hardings Road that leaves SH1, 5km south of Blenheim.

Grade: flat, easy.

Time: 3 hours return.

Distance: 7.8km Birdlife to see glossy ibis, wrybill, bar tailed godwit, royal spoonbill, banded dotterel, black fronted terns, fernbird, white heron, whitefaced heron, kingfisher, pied stilt, grey teal, NZ scaup, harrier hawk, canada goose, among many other common varieties.

3 Thermos, the circuit track swings back towards the south and will eventually take you to the intersection where you veered off a couple of hours earlier. According to the DOC sign, this section of the walk takes an hour-and-a-quarter, although in reality it’s a tad quicker than that.

Being slightly inland, there’s not a lot to see on this last section. The path winds its way through lengthy grassy sections, over a few small boardwalk bridges, through low salt marsh plants and briefly alongside a channel of water.

For this reason I’d suggest taking the left option at the earlier intersection, which kind of avoids a not-so-exciting last hour.

If you’re in Marlborough and have a spare half-day, this walk is essentially an easy stroll over flat ground, and an ideal opportunity for some exercise and fresh air. The bird life in the area is diverse and quite abundant, with the added bonus of the chance of seeing a few rare and very interesting species.

This story featured in RV Lifestyle issue 64.

1. The first boardwalk near the start of the track

2. The tiny wrybill - only bird in the world with a laterally curved bill

3. View from the Waverley picnic

table looking north to Mt Robertson

4. A rare vagrant visitor to our

shores from Australia - a glossy ibis

Tips • A bird book and pair of binoculars would be useful additions to your equipment.

• There’s no fresh water so carry some with you, particularly on the hot, dry days that characterise Marlborough’s summer.

• A lack of shade trees means the walk is very exposed to sun, wind and rain.

• Open fires aren’t permitted and only portable stoves should be used for cooking.

• The ground underfoot can be damp after rain so be prepared for the possibility of wet feet

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Tasman

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Coppermine Trail

Dun in a Day Geology lessons while tackling the Coppermine Trail that loops around Dun Mountain Story Gary Patterson Photos Gary Patterson and as credited

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Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

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un in a day? Well, this is a welcome change from the multi-day mountain-bike rides I had undertaken to collect data for the Great Rides App. Not only is it a day trip; the Coppermine Trail is a glorious loop! Few of the 22 NZ Great Rides are single-day cycling trips and most of the trails are either lineal or network layouts.

So, after arriving in Nelson, I was really looking forward to the simplicity of riding the only Great Ride that is both a loop and day trip.

Simplicity though, does not mean easy-peasy.

While it is simple to pedal out of central Nelson, the 17-kilometre hillclimb rising 900 vertical metres above Tasman Bay is a challenge that will keep me busy for the next few hours. My climb is made easier with heritage seemingly pulling me up the benched track, much like wagons were drawn up by horses that once worked this line. I say ‘line’ because the

4 trail formation is on NZ’s first railway line, built in 1862. Horse-drawn empty wagons were pulled up the mountain to the mineral belt above, which is where I am heading. In some places my tyres bobble over a railway sleeper or two – the last remnants of the 20,000 timbers that once supported the nowdisappeared iron tracks.

The former railway line unlocked mineral resources on the mountain top. As I swing around a corner I find myself running parallel with a modern, flashlooking fence line that locks out predators. This is the tall boundary fence of the Brook Waimarama Sanctuary, a community-based initiative that creates a pest-free wildlife reserve near the heart of Nelson.

At times the trail runs right beside the 14-kilometre predator-proof fence that protects all sort of native wildlife. I enjoy peering into the sanctuary as I climb through the forest high above the city. The forest here

1. The open tops are worth the climb 2. The open tops are worth the climb 3. Windy Point is aptly named 4. There are some amazing groundcover plant communities 5. Squeezing through the railway cutting

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Coppermine Trail

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is dense, lush and massive, giving the trail a real sense of remoteness despite being on the fringe of the town belt. The trail explores the dark recesses of the hillside where I ford small creeks before continuing up, up, up into the clouds.

I pass a few historic points, including the sites of former railway houses now reclaimed by the forest, before reaching an aptly named Windy Point. Crikey! Make sure your helmet is strapped on tight here, folks. This is where the trail breaks out of the forest and I am exposed to the full power of the natural elements of both geology and meteorology. The elevated view stretches out west over Tasman Bay. No longer protected by the forest, my body sways in the gale as the wind forces its way through the bend at Windy Point. Geology bares its pale orange face too, as I have reached the Dun Mountain Ophiolite Belt. Ophiolite (‘Ophio’ is Greek for snake, while ‘lite’ means rock) is formed deep in the earth’s mantle and has slithered its way to the surface via powerful tectonic forces. The same mineral belt sequence is found in Fiordland 700 kilometres south – the Nelson region having been displaced that far northward over geological time by the carving nature of the Alpine Fault shearing the earth apart. The land up here is almost devoid of vegetation, the iron and magnesium in the rock making the soils poisonous for most plant communities. The landscape makes interesting riding, offering a low-altitude sub-alpine experience as I ride towards Coppermine Saddle.

I enjoy the openness of the trail that winds along rocky faces towards the saddle. Upon reaching the high point I get off my own saddle to appreciate this north-facing viewing window. Straight ahead I peer down into the Maitai Valley where I can see the bike trail descend; to

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my left I can see a faint line in the hillside that once led to the mining area, and to my right is Dun Mountain (1129m) cloaked in a veil of cloud. Dun Mountain was named by early residents as a result of the hillside’s ‘dunn’ colour – an Old English term for dingy brown. In 1859 German–Austrian geologist Ferdinand von Hochstetter was employed by the government to map the geology of our country. He discovered that Dun Mountain was made up of dense igneous rock of olivine and chromite which he called dunite – a name now applied to all rocks of this type around the world. His discoveries and mapping resulted in von Hochstetter becoming known as the father of NZ geology. Today he has a mountain, an endemic frog, snails and takahē named after him.

Interestingly, quite recently the mining of dunite to spread over land to advance its weathering, has been considered as a potential method of capturing some of the growing global carbon dioxide levels in our air.

The former railway terminated at the saddle where I stand. Remarkably the line was built in one year by 200 men yielding picks and shovels … yet closed only four years later when the chromite was exhausted.

The word chromite is taken from Greek ‘chroma’ meaning colour, and at the time chromite was used for dye pigments; today we know it as the source for the thin shiny metallic coating on machinery called chrome plating. Turning to look back down the gradients I had just climbed, it would have made a thrilling gravity-powered ride for the brakemen on the descending ore-filled wagons. It took two-and-a-quarter hours to ride the wagons to Nelson – brakemen taking a shorter time could be dismissed. It is interesting to note that the trail has seen bike riders on its surface longer than it saw the ride of ore-filled wagons for which it was constructed. At least the line’s legacy continues.

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Not keen on staying a moment longer with the air at the saddle starting to cool, I hop back on my bike and drop into the Maitai Valley.

This section of trail is a grade harder than what I have experienced on the climb. I love the tight, twisty and technical descent. What an amazing job the trail builders have done over the years to create this cycle trail. Fabulous! While the former railway line provided a relatively good benched track to Coppermine Saddle (with a number of hikea-bike spots on the open tops) it was not until early 2000 that pioneer mountain bikers started weekend works to cut a rough track down off the tops into the Maitai Valley. Their efforts were later supported by local bike clubs and Council who upgraded the track significantly to make it fully rideable. In 2011, the trail opened as the third Great Ride of the NZ Cycle Trail.

The descent is thrilling. It does not take long to reach the bushline where the trail starts to straighten up, and where my bike seems to have a life of its own picking up pace and jostling me in the saddle like riding an unbroken horse. The trees become a blur as I crank up a gear to enter cycling hyper-drive; my eyes start to water. These are tears of joy! I pass a junction to a limestone cave. Had I detoured I may have seen one of the rarest miniature snails (1.7mm by 1.2mm) in the world, endemic to only one small pond in the cave. However, my steed has other plans; I continue to hang on tight and frantically freewheel to the valley floor on one of NZ’s longest mountain-bike descents. It’s good fun.

Then, suddenly, the gradient eases as I reach the Maitai River and follow its flowing course downstream to the Maitai Dam. Once I pass the dam that provides the city’s water supply, urbanity starts to assemble with the occasional dwelling appearing in this scenic forested valley.

I pass a sign to Tantragee Saddle, a shortcut on the loop, but I continue on, enjoying the trail beside the sweeping river bends. From here the ride is gentle, and I cycle carefree into Nelson past swimming holes before turning a bend to complete the ride. I stop to check my GPS

Trail update

The trail is now known as the Coppermine Trail. The trail trust has had work done to secure a large slip site, overseeing an upgrade to improve the surface and also planning to make the descent from Coppermine Saddle into the Maitai Valley somewhat easier than in the past. units, save the data and note that the loop took me several hours.

As I rest at the trailhead and I scroll through my trip photos, I reflect on the memories I had just collected on this trail.

The Coppermine Trail is a complete day ride. Normally ridden in the direction I travelled, the anticlockwise loop has a gentler climb on the track of the former railway line. I enjoyed starting near the coast, leaving the city for the wild, and climbing the benched track of the former railway line that is steeped in history to reach the sub-alpine tops, before the descent to complete the loop. While an advanced grade trail, this has to be one of the easier rides in the country to go from sea level to the sub-alpine tops and is now my favourite day ride. What Dun had done for me is to leave a permanent grin on my face to carry me though my multi-day rides ahead. In my view, Dun equals fun and I will return to enjoy Dun in a day!

This story featured in NZToday issue 86.

6. The predator-proof fencing of the Brook Waimarama Sanctuary 7. Dun Mountain (1129m) cloaked in cloud 8. Riding into the clouds 9. One of the well-built bridges on the descent

Statistics

43km Advanced Trail Intermediate/Advanced (Grade 3-4) Official Links: www.heartofbiking.org.nz/coppermine-trail Great Rides App: Download the app free from the App Stores Special Edition 2019

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Tasman

Golden Bay - Labyrinth Rocks Park

A CAVE, A WATERFALL AND A LABYRINTH Golden Bay is probably best known for its golden sand beaches and Abel Tasman National Park. While the park possesses some of the country’s most beautiful and picturesque coastline walks, there are other lesspublicised short walks that offer very interesting and unique insights into the bay’s geology and geography. There is also a fantastic ‘rock labyrinth’ that the kids will have a whole lot of fun exploring.

Story + Photos Matt Winter

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here is a neat story behind how the Labyrinth Rocks Park became what it is today. Many years ago the late Dave Whittaker, a former geologist and mining engineer, realised the uniqueness of the area and leased the land off the local council. With a lot of hard work and dedication, he opened up the dozens of passageways creating an attraction for locals and tourists alike. Due to ill health, Mr Whittaker was eventually no longer able to maintain the 2ha of park and it had to be closed down.

He always had a dream that someone else would carry on the work, and the local community soon came forward to form what is now called ‘Friends of the Labyrinth’. This group of volunteers is continuing on with Dave’s dream. With assistance from local businesses as well as financial support from the council, the labyrinth can be cleaned of encroaching weeds, trails are maintained and drains cleared while, most importantly, the park is kept open for everyone to enjoy.

The Labyrinth Rocks Park is situated just 3.3km from Takaka on the road to Pohara beach.

As the name suggests, this superb little walk features a maze of fascinating paths and trails that twist and turn through a series of natural limestone rock corridors. Lush native bush, nikau palms and ferns grow around the paths and rock formations that help in creating an otherworldly atmosphere. The 3km of pathways within the park can be explored thoroughly in about an hour with the aid of a map of the trails that can be picked up at the entrance.

Rawhiti Cave

From Takaka, drive along Abel Tasman Drive for 4.5km.

Turn right onto Glenview Road for 400 metres, then left onto Packard Road. Continue for 2.5km. Track to carpark signposted on left just before bridge.

Grade: Easy Time: 1–1.5 hours return Distance: 3km Birdlife to see: weka, fantail, grey warbler, bellbird, tūī, tomtit, wood pigeon Tips: Keep your eye out for wild goats Footwear with a good tread if walking after rain Experiment with different angles and perspectives when photographing the cave, for good even exposures

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Tasman

Golden Bay - Labyrinth Rocks Park

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Labyrinth Rocks Park From Takaka, head north on Abel Tasman Drive for 2.5km.

Turn onto Scott Road. Labyrinth entrance 700 metres.

Grade: Easy Time: 1 hour return Distance: 3km of labyrinth trails within 2ha Tips Grab a map of the labyrinth trails at the entrance kiosk.

Make a game of it for the kids by having them search for dozens of hidden figurines.

But don’t worry if you don’t have a map – there is no real risk of getting lost.

This wee walk is definitely one for the kids! I’m not sure whether it was Mr Whittaker that initiated the practice or just an accumulation left by visitors over time, but the nooks, crannies, crevices, cracks, recesses and shelves throughout the labyrinth contain dozens and dozens of small figurines which surprise and delight children at every turn – heck, I’m an adult and even I loved searching for the hidden surprises around each corner. Most figurines are only a couple of inches in size and range from tiny plastic animals and toys to dangling ‘things’ in the branches of trees.

Keyna & Tanzania . Madagascar . Namibia . Fiji Colombia . Kyrgyzstan . Cambodia . China & Tibet

,Golden Bay

www.escapeadventuresnz.com Ph: 03 545 1789 32

Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

1. There is a wooden viewing

platform situated in the heart of the cave directly below hundreds of stalactites hanging from the roof 2. Entrance to the Labyrinth Rocks Park 3. One of the many interconnecting paths of the Labyrinth 4. Just a few examples of the hidden ‘treasures’ found within the labyrinth 5. Stalactites on the roof of Rawhiti cave 6. The grand old billy goat I photographed on the way to Rawhiti cave 7. Stream-side bush track leading to Rawhiti cave

6 RAWHITI CAVE

A leisurely half-hour walk up an easy stream-side bush track followed by a steep (but relatively easy) climb, culminates in a spectacular ‘phytokarst’ cave. Phytokast is a natural process in which plants and calcium work together to form stalactites and stalagmites. The stalactites at the entrance to Rawhiti cave are covered with mosses and algae that are constantly having calcium carbonate deposited on them, with the plants slowly being incorporated into the stalactites. As plants respond to light, the mosses and algae grow faster on the sunny side which in turn makes the stalactites grow out towards the cave entrance. The significant thing about this particular cave is the sheer number of stalactites, not seen in most other caves.

The Rawhiti cave walk is another of Golden Bay’s little-publicised short walks, and like the labyrinth it is very handy to the Takaka township.

A 9km drive along Abel Tasman Drive and Packard Road brings you

to a spacious carpark accessed through a private farm. (Ensure any gates are shut behind you.)

The well-marked and -maintained track enters the very steep-sided Dry River valley and meanders alongside bush river terraces. Being a keen wildlife photographer and hunter, I am always on the lookout for wild animals so I was stoked to see a group of wild goats not far off the trail.

A quick but stealthy stalk with my camera netted some great photos of the large billy and his harem of nannies and juveniles. Hoof prints and other signs along the track suggested there is a healthy population in the valley, so keep your eye out.

After half an hour of very easy travel, the track suddenly veers right and begins a steep and constant climb for another 30 minutes. Although steep, the track is well built with plenty of good foot and hand holds. A wee word of caution however – the under-foot conditions can become slippery immediately after rain but do dry out reasonably quickly.

As suddenly as it begins, the steep climb abruptly levels off 50 metres before the main objective of the trip – Rawhiti cave. On my first trip to the cave I was quite taken aback by how impressive it was ‘in the flesh’, so to speak. On my second trip I was no less in awe. It really is remarkable what nature can achieve.

There is a stepped pathway leading down into the cave entrance and a solid wooden (hand railed) viewing platform situated in the heart of the cave. It has been positioned directly below hundreds of stalactites hanging from the roof – quite an eerie feeling but also quite safe. (See opening image.)

There are several information boards at the cave telling the geological and human history of the cave. (Back in the early 1900s, the Baird family, who owned the cave at the time, operated guided cave tours.)

Photographing the cave can be challenging due to the contrasting light conditions. Try many different angles and perspectives to get the most even lighting across your image, thus avoiding nasty bright white areas and/or dark areas with no detail.

WAINUI FALLS

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To reach Wainui Falls entails a slightly longer drive from Takaka.

However, don’t let this put you off, as the 20km drive is worth doing in itself. The stunning Pohara, Tata and Ligar Bay beaches are all there to be enjoyed along the way. Once over the hill and into Wainui Bay proper, the turn off to the start of the track is on the right and 700 metres before the road starts climbing over to Totaranui – if you reach the gravel, you have gone too far. Keep your eye out for the ‘Wainui Falls’ signpost.

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Tasman

Wainui Falls

Golden Bay - Labyrinth Rocks Park

From Takaka, follow Abel Tasman Drive for 20km. Turn right onto short gravel laneway to reach carpark. (Turn off here is 700 metres before Abel Tasman Drive turns to gravel.)

Grade: Easy Time: 1.5 hours return Distance: 3.4km Birdlife to see weka, pīwakawaka (fantail), riroriro (grey warbler), korimako (bellbird), tūī, miromiro (tomtit), kererū (wood pigeon), wading birds such as poaka (pied stilt),tōrea (oystercatcher), kōtuku (heron) and tara teoteo (tern) on the Wainui Bay tidal estuary Tips • T ake a light rain jacket for waterfall spray • T ry some long exposures of 1–2 seconds to create a ‘silky’ effect of water •B e careful on the rocks around the falls – they are very slippery.

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Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

From the carpark (with a toilet) the track follows a farm laneway for a short distance then veers right and enters the bush alongside the bank of the Wainui river. It meanders in and out of the native bush offering a variety of views of the river and surrounding lush native bush. About halfway up to the falls, the track goes through a beautiful glade of nikau palms while elsewhere there are some spectacular examples of very large old rimu trees beside the track. Many of these ancient giants have other plants such as kiekie and rata growing on and around them.

About 1.3km from the start, the track comes to a bridge across the main Wainui river. It is a suspension-type bridge which was built in 2015, replacing the old cable and wire swing bridge. The old swing bridge was a ‘one at a time’ affair that used to cause delaying bottlenecks in the peak summer tourist season. The new suspension model can take up to 10 people at a time and is very well built. Looking downstream from the bridge reveals huge piles of logs and debris stacked against the large granite boulders in the river bed, all brought down from previous floods. It is quite sobering thinking about the power of nature and the resulting forces involved to move that amount of material.

Once over the bridge you should be able to hear the roar of the falls themselves, although, remarkably, you are still a couple of hundred metres away. The track sidles alongside the river, across a solid wooden boardwalk that negotiates a tricky rock section, then in no time at all the falls come into view.

The falls are 20 metres in height falling as one main flow into a large and deep pool. Depending on wind direction and the amount of water in the river, a fair amount of fine spray wafts around. A bit like a fine rain drizzle, it is fine enough to not be a bother but unknowingly, it gets you wet. I would suggest throwing a light rain jacket in your day pack even on sunny days.

All spectacular waterfalls are worth photographing and this one is no exception. However, due to the nature of the surrounding area, where the track is, and the sometimes far-reaching spray, this can be a challenge. It is difficult to get an unobstructed shot of the whole falls from the end of the track and viewing area, but you can get down into the riverbed below and shoot up to it. This also enables you to get some cool foreground features such as rocks and logs in the frame. (Just a mention here of the very slippery rocks which can trip you up very easily.) If you have a tripod (or put your camera on a rock) try some long exposures of one to a few seconds to create that lovely silky effect of the falling water.

This story featured in RV Lifestyle issue 71.

8. View looking upstream to the Wainui Falls track suspension bridge 9. Wainui Falls

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A MIDDLE EARTH EXPERIENCE

Golden Bay Museum Te Waka Huia o Mohua

During your visit get acquainted with the fascinating story of Golden Bay Mohua, or research your family history with assistance from staff.

73 Commercial Street, Takaka | Admission by donation Open Monday to Saturday 10am-4pm | Closed Sunday and public holidays 03 525 6268 | info@goldenbaymuseum.org.nz | goldenbaymuseum.org.nz

Main road, Takaka Hill, SH 60, Motueka (towards Golden Bay)

ph: +64 3 528 8093 | email: ngaruacaves@gmail.com www.gentlecycling.co.nz

Freephone: 0800 932 453

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Special Edition 2019

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Canterbury

Hanmer Springs

BIG SKY COUNTRY Justine Tyerman gets giddy in the St James Conservation Area …

Story + Photos Justine Tyerman

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Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

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3 1. Justine on the St James Cycle Trail with a massive scree slope in the background 2. A signpost on the way to Hanmer Springs 3. Justine e-biking in the Hanmer Forest 4. The Waiau River

bridge south of Hanmer Springs. Photo: Hurunui Tourism

n our early 60s, in that heady zone between children and grandchildren, we’ve lately developed irresponsible nomadic tendencies that worry our adult daughters.

It’s a classic case of role reversal – we get texts from Sophie and Bridget urging us to be careful and report in at the end of the day. They are working hard on their careers in Sydney and London; we are working hard on leisure in ‘God’s own’ …

Chris and I love nothing better than to wander around the countryside in a comfy self-contained motorhome with a couple of e-bikes on the back, going wherever the spirit wills and the weather looks most settled during this Clayton’s kind of summer.

With no fixed itinerary or agenda, the only focus of the day is to find a picturesque place to park overnight and a scenic biking trail that, for the first time in my life thanks to the wonderful invention of the e-bike, can include hills. It’s not hard to meet all those criteria in Aotearoa.

On our most recent escapade, we picked up a JUCY motorhome and two Kiwi-designed SmartMotion e-bikes in Christchurch and set off for Hanmer Springs with a couple of mates who had driven all the way from Gisborne, towing a flash Australian camper trailer with their e-bikes on the top. As Dave and Libby drove out the gate, their adult sons evidently shook their heads in disbelief muttering something about a ‘late-life crisis on wheels!’

At first the prospect of biking with experts terrified me, but thanks to our zippy machines with their five-level power function and handy throttle when an extra boost was required, I was never far behind. It made me feel so good to be part of the A team rather than being the solo member of team Z, the one lagging miles behind who always kept others waiting.

To begin with, we explored a myriad of shady forest trails close to the Hanmer Springs township, ranging from easy to expert, which kept our crew of mixed-ability riders more than happy.

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Canterbury

Hanmer Springs

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Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

5 When Chris and Dave wanted to do daring things, they went further afield to check out a section of the 64km St James Cycle Trail, from the homestead to Scotties Hut and Charlies Saddle, while we took it easy browsing the shops and cafés. Having worked up a moderate appetite after a morning of pedalling, Libby and I made short work of a tasty smashed avocado, feta and bacon on ciabatta at The Roasted Bean café.

The men came back raving about the spectacular landscape of the St James Conservation Area and

insisted we go with them the next day to cycle a less terrifying version of their ride. Our circuit from the St James homestead, up the beautiful Clarence River Valley to Peters Pass, and back via Peters Valley, was stunning. And they were right about the landscape. My head was on a constant swivel and my eyes strained to take in the massive scope of the terrain with its 360-degree panoramas, unlimited vistas that stretched to far horizons, and scree slopes encompassing whole mountain sides.

Big sky country.

5. Chris and his SmartMotion e-bike in Peter’s Valley

6. The St James Cycle Trail takes

riders through a magnificent landscape of mountains, lakes and rivers. Photo: Hurunui Tourism 7-8. Stone chimneys are all that remain of an old homestead

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Smart Urban Helmet Helmetphone BH51M Neo Canterbury

Hanmer Springs

In contrast to Central Otago where the mountains enclose and tower over you, the St James gave me a giddy sense of space and freedom from boundaries that made me feel like I might float away. Not a good place for agoraphobics, I decided!

We met a ‘real McCoy’ mountain biker who was setting off to ride the entire loop of the St James The World’s The World’s Cycle Trail in an afternoon with muscle-power alone.

FirstFirst Smart Smart & Safe & Safe Cycling Cycling Helmet Helmet Very impressive, I thought … but I couldn’t understand his desire to rush such a beautiful experience. One day – when I’ve mastered the technical aspects – I’d love to ride the whole trail, but to do justice to the landscape I would tarry awhile, staying at the DOC huts en route and allowing my 7 senses time to absorb this wondrous place.

Jacks Pass–Jollies Pass is another iconic ride.

Accessible from the township, the hardest part of the 25km ride is the sustained hill climb up Jacks Pass, but a breeze on an e-bike.

Our muscles did not have too much to complain about afterwards but we soaked them in the famous Hanmer hot springs anyway. The thermal waters have been attracting visitors for over 125 years and the modern complex boasts 15 open-air thermal pools of varying temperatures set among landscaped gardens with picnic areas, a spa and licensed café.

Biking is a substantial income-earner for the district. Hurunui Tourism marketing manager Shane Adcock says 41 per cent of visitors to Hanmer Springs undertake some sort of mountain biking activity.

“Based on estimates of visitors to Hanmer Springs, the number 8 of visits from bikers annually is around 270,600,” says Shane.

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9 “The Hurunui District is fortunate to have a number of excellent biking tracks for all levels of ability,” he says.

“Hanmer Springs has over 50km of tracks that run throughout the heritage forest and logging forests. These are easily accessible from the village. North of Hanmer Springs, the St James Conservation Area provides a long and challenging ride for experienced riders – the reward being a magical high-country experience with spectacular scenery.”

But there are myriad other attractions and activities as well.

“Any trip to Hanmer should include the iconic thermal pools and spa. There are also excellent outdoor adventures on the Waiau River (jet boating and rafting) and on the land (quad biking and horse trekking).

“In addition, the Waipara Valley has a number of award-winning wineries, many of which have cellar doors. A great way to explore them is by pedal-power on the Hurunui Vineyard Bike Trail.”

This story featured in RV Lifestyle issue 65.

9. The scenery on the St James

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Cycle Trail is spectacular.

Photo: Hurunui Tourism 10. A visit to Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools and Spa after a long day in the saddle is bliss.

Photo: Hurunui Tourism

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Mackenzie

Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail

A Great Ride

Finding Fabulous Gary revisits the trail where he once got lost – a misadventure that inspired him to come up with his Great Rides app Story + Photos Gary Patterson

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Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

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Mackenzie

Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail

I

s it possible for a cartographer to get lost? Well, this was the predicament I found myself in four years ago on a disused part of the Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail with a small group of friends.

I’d say I was more disoriented than lost but this point would be vigorously debated by my bruised-bummed friends. You see at Twizel I had decided that we should deviate from the official trail for the more remote access route to the hydroelectric storage lakes. As it turned out, this was a mistake, for as we headed further away from the comfort of the official trail we encountered water-filled potholes that could have been mistaken for the nearby reservoirs, and round, fist-sized boulders that played havoc with our tyres. Our distance from the main trail grew longer and longer in inverse proportion to my wife’s patience which was very, very short. I was off-track in so many ways. The last climb over a moraine wall and back down to the main trail at Lake Ōhau was a relief and I vowed never to repeat the experience. That evening, over a comforting meal to soothe body and mind, I came up with a solution to the day’s mishap: I could use my trail mapping skills to build a free mobile app to help those on the NZ Cycle Trails make happier decisions. This was the birthing moment of the Great Rides App. Less than a year later our group returns, ready to right the wrongs of the past. This is the first ride to capture data for the Great Rides App, and at this point it feels more like a full-time adventure than a business venture. We look at the paper maps and can see why most riders choose the downhill direction from source to sea. It’s a no brainer! The official trailhead at the foothills of Aoraki/Mt Cook looks inviting with its flowing downhill trail through to the tussock flats of the Tasman Valley, and with Mt Cook airport providing a short flight with bikes across the river. The trail then weaves along the riverside before picking up a

2 1. Riding along Lake Pūkākī is fabulous 2. This trail literally is Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail!

3. Crossing Pūkākī Flats in the open surrounds of the Mackenzie Basin

4. Riding the canals is magic on a calm day

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Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

cycleventuresnz

rural roadside to Lake Pūkākī. However, we opt to start on the grassy, green banks of the lower reaches of the lake.

I assemble the GPS units on my handlebars and take in the view. Northward is sheer beauty with a backdrop of mountains cradling the lake, its reflective surface drawing my eye to the magnificent white peak of Aoraki. Here the glacier meltwaters of the main divide become our trail companion accompanying us downstream over the next few days. Our mapping party consists of two couples, avid riders keen to explore the trail and avoid 3 the mishap of our previous Alps 2 Ocean journey. We have several cameras between us to document our trail time and to build the photographic journey for the Great Rides App. With the GPSs recording, we head off on some of the most scenic lakeside cycle trails in the country. It is a crisp spring morning, the lake is calm, and its waters so turquoise from the suspended glacier rock-flour sediment that it appears unreal. We ride slowly to savour every moment as the trail curves along the foreshore, every sweep offering a different perspective of this majestic landscape.

If the rest of the NZ Great Rides are anything like the start of this first ride, then we were in for the ride of a lifetime building this app!

After several kilometres of cycling, the lake terminates at a dam wall.

It is a mind-boggling thought that this cycle trail passes canals and rivers that interconnect seven large lakes to generate electricity at the eight hydroelectric stations that make up the Waitaki power scheme. It’s so BIG! The scheme generates sufficient electricity to power a million homes! One day we will succumb to the temptation of an e-bike and

plug into the scheme to recharge our batteries between trail sections. I bet there is no e-bike riding club large enough to drain this scheme. We power on too, using solely human output to keep our wheels turning over the expanse of Twizel’s Pūkākī Flats. Soon our energy levels fall to critically low levels and we ride into the village square for a lunch of waffle fries and burgers. After recharging our tummies we head off, and unlike the previous year’s debacle we stay on the official trail that leads smoothly beside the canals to the control gates of Lake Ōhau.

Bliss! Here, beside the lake, we ride the loveliest of trail sections. Its tight and intimate path hugs the native scrub and is never far from the water that tempts us in for a swim at each shingle bay we pass. It is too cold for me but the others pussy-foot in and shiver out refreshed. This section of the track is a highlight and a rider’s delight.

Soon we are at the base of the Ōhau ski-field access road. We click down to low gears and start the gentle but long 11km climb to the

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Mackenzie

Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail Tarnbrae summit. Being the first trip in ages, my climbing fitness could be better and I puff my way up a few hundred vertical metres to the 700m contour line. As the last member of our group reaches the top we have a celebratory dance, take long gulps from our water bottles and admire the elevated views above Lake Ōhau and the Mackenzie Basin. While the views are outstanding, we don’t linger as there is still a spring chill in the air. Just a few metres on, the thrill of the downhill is just a switchback away so we point our wheels downwards and let gravity do the work for us. The descent is sweet and effortless as our wheels pick up pace until we reach the flatter grassland below, then there are just a couple of rocky fords to negotiate before we reach the historic Quailburn woodshed. It is here we stop for the day to pitch our tents, explore the relics and have a restful night’s sleep.

Next morning sees us head south past the turnoff to the badland formations of the Clay Cliffs, over the Ahuriri River and into the gliding

5

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On the Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail Dinner, bed and breakfast or stop for coffee or lunch and enjoy our cyclists platter on the deck.

Bookings: Lake Ohau Lodge Email: reservations@ohau.co.nz ph. +64 3 438 9885 | WWW.OHAU.CO.NZ 46

Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

magnet of Ōmarama. As the rest of my cycling companions are rather big Bruce Springsteen fans there are numerous versions of his song Badlands being sung into the wind over this section of the trail.

From Ōmarama, we pedal eastward for the rest of the ride. Cresting the Chain Hills we are reunited with the waters of the Waitaki scheme. The ride here is gorgeous with willows wisping in the wind, rustic iron-clad barns, and a trail so well-tailored it’s as if Mother Nature herself had threaded it through the countryside. There’s a variety of terrain and associated scenery on the Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail (in a distance easily achieved on a bicycle) that other places can’t begin to even dream of. I love this country. Reaching the rest area at Sailors Cutting, we delight in finding an unexpected mobile coffee van. A refreshing beverage and a chat with the vendor soon sees us underway to Otematata – the next settlement. Here the trail overlooks wetlands full of waterfowl as it arcs around the hillside until the massive earth bund of the Benmore Dam rises before us. Biking up one hundred vertical metres beside the dam is a challenge but the views are well worth it. Riding atop the dam wall we take in the lapping waters that are almost out of place in the arid landscape. Below us are the dam’s infrastructure of pylons, spillways and six massive concrete pipes – so big that they could easily transport trucks through to the turbines. We continue following the willowlined lake, past picturesque camping spots that beg us to return and follow the flow of Waitaki River seaward until twilight.

7 Set up for the day by a good night’s sleep in Kurow, we continue on to Duntroon, a hamlet that truly embraces its heritage with a restored blacksmith’s shop and town gaols. They are cool. There are also limestone statues, a fossil centre, a cave and ancient rock drawings that can be seen from the trail. As the trail climbs through farmland, nature’s massive rock art dominates. Was that the shape of a giant goat watching us sweat up the hill? Another is more like a camel, right down to its caramel-coloured coat. Then, as we reach Elephant Rocks, the outcrops multiply and become more grandiose. Here we park up our bikes and walk between the limestone shapes as each blob morphs into a figure in one’s imagination.

For me the outcrops pop out of the pasture like cream townhouses built on a greenfield site quickly erected but yet to be landscaped. There are no small lumps, just individual monoliths sprouting from the earth.

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5. Edging along the shores of Lake Ohau

6. Delighted to reach the trail’s highest point

7. Light conditions are epic on silhouetted landforms

8. The willows are a real pleasant part of the ride

9. The Otematata wetlands are so calm and scenic

10. Catching a cuppa at

Sailors Cutting 11. Benmore dam is such a massive structure

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Mackenzie

Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail

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We ride on and enter the Narnia chasm; a realm that eats up the trail like it’s coming to a dead-end, yet on into its bowels we explore before being spat out via a series of switchbacks that release us from this film site.

The environment changes before us yet again as we ride out of the inland aridness and into the coastal murk. We see small glimpses through the clag of limestone outcrops, deep rolling valleys and carpets of lush green pasture. Before we know it we reach a dark tunnel. Its building blocks are the same limestone that we have seen at the elephant rock monoliths. The former Rakis railway tunnel is our first taste of a rail trail and our portal eastward to the ocean. One last climb and we see the blue hue of the Pacific Ocean; our bikes seem to not need our driving power as we drop into the outskirts of Ōamaru. As the trail passes right through one of the oldest public gardens in the country, we see proof

that spring has sprung. Gardens of flowers are in full bloom. We take a moment to stop and admire the ponds, the weeping trees that are laden down with flowers, and families enjoying the warmth of the new season.

In our last trail moments, we take in the Victorian quarter of town with its magnificent limestone facades, fascinating arty stores, steampunk HQ and the Whitestone City heritage hub. Finally we reach the walk-in picture frame of the Alps 2 Ocean Cycle Trail. Like others before us we mount its stage and pose for a shot. Like the riders who leave from the base of Aoraki/Mt Cook more than 300 kilometres back, we too have wide smiles. With our mission of mapping the very trail which once had me … uh hmm … ‘disoriented’ completed, the ghosts of the past have been put to rest and I stand in the frame focused on my next cycling and mapping adventure.

Statistics

310km, (Grade 2–3 Easy to Intermediate) Official Links: www.alps2ocean.com Great Rides App: Download the app free from the App Stores

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Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

15 12. The rock formations grow huge on the way to Elephant Rocks 13. Oamaru Gardens was a surprise and delight 14. Into and out of the bowels of the earth 15. Being framed in Oamaru at the end of the trail

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Central Otago

50

Roxburgh Gorge

Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

Gorging on Greatness Gary tackles the Roxburgh Gorge Trail, a ride that includes a 13km jet boat trip Story + Photos Gary Patterson or as credited

W

hich to choose: staring all day at a computer in order to keep the Great Rides App in shape, or steering my bike through a river gorge to keep myself in shape? Today I choose the latter, so leaving early morning from my home on the shores of moody Lake Wakatipu I head to the cycle trails of Central Otago. When I arrive I find there are a lot of trail choices; in fact, there are four NZ Great Rides all within an hour’s drive. Trail expansion too is in the pipeline and a $26 million, 120-kilometre building project will soon link the southern Great Rides into an unparalleled cycle trail network. My mind boggles at the thought of a continuous 500-kilometre-plus cycle trail network connecting more than 30 townships. The project to build a trail between the towns of Cromwell and Clyde is about to commence shortly, but today I kick off my ride at the twin bridges below downtown Alexandra.

The day could not be more perfect. For an area that experiences some of the hottest and coldest temperatures in the country, this morning is clear and mild. Already the sun’s rays give a glow to the poplars in full colour, their leaves drifting to earth while I prepare. I switch on the GPS units beside the gentle current of our country’s largest river; the Clutha River will be my companion today. It flows beneath the nearby historic stone bridge as well as the more modern span that I soon cross. I hit the trail – and it’s immediately great, from the views I can see ahead. Beyond my handlebars is a golden leaf litter that crackles under my tyres. The trail here is wide and firm with gravel hiding under the drifts of autumn’s fall. As I turn a corner the landscape tightens, the herb fields and dry rocky outcrops seem to pop up to meet me as I leave urbanity. I am not alone, as the occasional walker and wheeler join me heading downstream in the tightening river gorge.

The Roxburgh Gorge Trail is a playful cross-country ride in three acts.

The opening act is a 10-kilometre cycle into the gorge; at the midpoint, the second act begins in the form of a necessary jetboat connection to the final act, an 11-kilometre cycling climax to the Roxburgh Dam. If the opening scenes I’ve experienced so far, continue during the ride, I’m surely in for a cracker of a day. After riding for a few minutes I squeeze between the schist rock bluffs of the Narrows and cruise along the elevated river terrace that offers vistas of the turquoise waters. Time slips away and all too soon I reach the terminus of this section of trail at Doctors Point. Here we cyclists gather with excited anticipation, listening in the silence for the deep thrum of the jetboat. There are two pre-arranged boat operators who service the trail; Beaumont Jet and Clutha River Cruises. I choose to ‘cruise’ with owneroperator Laurence on an early afternoon pickup.

Entering the Roxburgh Gorge is near-perfection

Special Edition 2019

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Central Otago

Roxburgh Gorge

1 Loading the bikes on the rear boat rack takes little time, while all on board tighten lifejackets and find comfy seats. Getting onto the boat is easy-peasy using a dedicated jetty that extends out into the water.

Laurence seems to know all the secret riverside relics, and just as we leave he points out a stone shelter ruin tucked under the Doctors Point viewpoint. Remarkable! Three times I have visited this viewpoint without discovering the concealed hide.

In a moment, we go from cruising sedately to planing as the jetboat roars to life, lifting the hull higher in the water. Soon we are shooting past the precipitous schist walls of the gorge and the breeze awakens our senses.

A guided boat trip on the river highway of yesteryear is the best way to take in the early gold-mining tales, and as we head downstream we soon find that our driver is both a master navigator and narrator. We stop and view the flats at Fourteen Mile Creek, once a thriving tent camp for gold prospectors back in the day, today an abandoned terrace with little sign of the goldfield.

We continue downriver or should that be down-lake? The Roxburgh Dam was completed in the mid-1950s and was the first large-scale dam

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Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

in the country, doubling our electricity production as well as saving the south from further power shortages. The waters of the new lake rose at a rate of a metre per hour, drowning many of the gold-mining relics and creating the 30-kilometre-long lake that extends back towards Alexandra. We reach the site of Mrs Heron’s Cottage which was once on the banks of what the Māori called ‘Mata-au’ (surface current), but renamed ‘Molyneux’ by early European explorers, and in turn renamed by Scottish settlers as the Clutha River. Today, the expanse of water below the doorstep of this historic listed mud-mortar cottage is known as Lake Roxburgh.

The story behind this largely intact home is inspiring. Harriet Ann Heron (nee Buttress) was an English settler who arrived in Lyttelton with her husband in 1858. Unfortunately he died two years later in a surfboat accident at Timaru, and she then remarried to Henry Herbert Heron and settled in Dunedin. One day Mr Heron had arranged for a mob of sheep to be sent to the Lindis diggings, but when the Gabriels Gully gold rush was reported he diverted the sheep to Lawrence near this new goldfield, and the couple subsequently decided to settle there.

The Herons ran a successful butcher shop in Lawrence – it was more of a temporary structure made of calico – and one of her regular customers was Gabriel Read. After the discovery of gold in Dunstan, Mr Heron prospected near Long Valley (later renamed Roxburgh) where he was soon joined by his wife who travelled there alone without roads or bridged river crossings. They then relocated again to Fourteen Mile Beach to work a claim at what is now a jetboat stop. They lived there in a tent for three years, but when the gold diminished they moved downstream to the banks of our current jetboat stop. Here the couple built the cottage we are facing and operated a store and butchery. Mrs Heron is remembered as one of the few women who lived in the goldmining camps during the Otago gold rush. She passed away in 1931 at the age of 93 years, and was fittingly known as the ‘Grand old lady of Roxburgh’.

Our next and last stop on the 13-kilometre jetboat trip is Shingle Creek. Here we disembark and Laurence puts our bikes back on solid

3

4

ground. We bid farewell to Clutha River Cruises’ master storyteller. Before leaving I see there is a bach-like shelter tucked into scrub beside the lake. I investigate. I find some rough outdoor seating complete with an outdoor potbelly stove; inside the rough shack are old sofas that complete the bachelor pad. It’s a retreat of a kind, a casual hideout for mates to meet up after arriving by water or wheels. I leave this crib of comfort to the rough landscape. There’s no comfort as the curtain of the third act soon rises and so too does my bike as I enter a long climb. The rising gradient is made easier as it’s a wide and smooth trail surface, and the slope soon eases as it CO TTA E S of a dogleg corner aptly named extends into theGrecess Elbow Creek. w w w. c l u t h a g o l d c o t t a g e s . c o . n z After Relax I leaveafter thealeg of the dog, the lake reappears and I day on the trail in start my descent.

Here the views are just magnificent, and a quiet peaceful surrounding

Clutha Gold

for the first time I can see the rocky tops of the Knobby Range. On this stretch I can see the elbow of the lake that leads both north and east. Below I see the white-water wash from a speeding boat, the perfect pattern of the wake a contrast to the lumpy faces of the random rocky outcrops.

My eye follows the trail as it winds and disappears through elevated terraces and nooks; soon I am drawn into this terrain of the Hidden Valley and its sweeping bends. Next, I meet two sets of climbing switchbacks. The first is a warm-up of several wide corners followed by another set a few hundred metres beyond. While I’m not a fan of trails that appear like zigzag stitching on a hillside’s fabric, I love this second one.

Here, with greater effort, I press my feet hard into the pedals as I sing (well… puff anyway) the praises of the trail builders who conquered the giant bluff I’m ascending.

1. Riding down to

Roxburgh Dam is a delight

2. Doctors Point –

awaiting the drone and thrum of the jetboat 3. To cruise or to ride, or to do both?

4. The only way to connect with the trail (Clutha River Cruises)

Clutha Gold

Backpackers Paradise in

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Roxburgh

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Central Otago

Roxburgh Gorge

5 5. Negotiating the meanderings of both trail and river 6. This shelter seemed a perfect spot to hang out

6

Then after some wiggly downhill I reach the trailhead, just above the humming dam that formed the lake some decades ago. The view over the huge dam and river is towards the carpark of the Clutha Gold Trail – another NZ Cycle Trail … and equally epic.

As for me, I am done cycling for today. The Roxburgh Gorge Trail has been a brief respite before I return to the computer and continue updating the Great Rides App. The trail is not only a day-ride between two Great Rides and the shortest on the NZ Cycle Trail; it is also a standalone track that allows one to gorge on greatness as I have just done. It’s a trail hidden from the highway as it travels along the waterway. Unlike the

road above with its brief glimpses of the gorge, this route plunges into the river canyon and onto the waters. I enjoyed cruising the path of the prospectors and hearing the rich tales of days long gone. Cycling the trail is an honest cross-country ride but one gently aided by wide and stable paths. Boy, it was devoid of cyclists today! – only a few of us compared to the much larger numbers on the Otago Central Rail Trail just over a mile away. The Roxburgh Gorge is often overlooked and completely under-rated. One day soon, word of this striking trail will get out and a rush of riders will stake a claim for a ride that is as good as gold.

This story featured in RV Lifestyle issue 77.

Trail update

Construction of the Lake Dunstan Trail has now commenced and the build is divided into two stages. Stage one which is hoped to be open before Christmas will connect Pisa Moorings to Bannockburn via Cromwell. Stage two, expected to be open by the end of 2020 will connect Bannockburn to Clyde Dam via the rocky terrain on the opposite side of the lake from the Lake Dunstan highway.

This will be a stunning cycle trail of approximately 52 kilometres in length. For the Roxburgh Gorge Trail a new jetboat operator of Central Water Taxis now also connects riders between the two trail sections.

Statistics

21km + 13km jetboat trip.

Easy to Intermediate Trail (Grade 2–3) Official Links: www.cluthagold.co.nz Great Rides App: Download the app free from the App Stores 54

Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

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Central Otago

Otago Central Rail Trail

The beauty of the landscape is a real highlight of the trail (OCRTM and Tim Hawkins) 56

Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

The Granddaddy of Greatness The Otago Central Rail Trail is New Zealand’s oldest cycle trail and has achieved legendary status for many keen cyclists Story + Photos Gary Patterson or as credited

Special Edition 2019

57

Central Otago

Otago Central Rail Trail

1

A

sk any kiwi cyclist what they know about the Great Rides and they will inevitably refer to the Otago Central Rail Trail. It’s already legendary. As I prepared to travel to Central Otago I pondered the notion of whether this trail had earned its status simply due to being the first of the cycle trails, the granddaddy; or on its own merits by delivering unique charms that enhance the journey – I was about to find out!

Opening at the turn of the century, the trail is a generation older than most of the new kids on the block. The former railway line was transferred to the Department of Conservation (DOC) in the early 1990s, and the Otago Central Rail Trail Trust worked with DOC to transform the line to a cycle trail and manage it thereafter – about the time I was still getting to grips with my first mountain bike. The vision must have been a challenging concept at a time less ridden. I marvel at how those trustees could have possibly pulled off such a massive idea

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Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

without precedent.

Arriving at the Clyde trailhead early one morning I start my familiar routine of attaching and warming up the GPS units on my bike while I gather my gear for the ride. Every so often I would turn to watch the spectacle that surrounded me. The carpark was an emotional scene reminiscent of the heightened atmosphere of an airport, filled with laughter and the tears of separation and relief. There is a collection of bikes scattered around the area with riding gear orbiting it like satellites around each group. There is excited chattering in several tongues coupled with the spectrum of brightly coloured clothing; the sights and sounds stick with me. Never before have I seen such a colourful gathering and vibe at any trailhead.

And we’re off. Our varied pedal speeds soon separate us into clusters heading east along the railway straights to Alexandra and beyond. The dry landscape is broken only by schist outcrops, the railway cuttings at times revealing rich layered schist foliations. Before long we regroup at Chatto Creek, a quaint tavern that was once a Cobb & Co coach stopover. While others collect refreshments, I collect waypoints on the GPS, photos, and stories of yesteryear for the Great Rides App that I have developed.

Leaving the tavern and drinkers, I continue inland along the line to one of the most extreme climatic zones of any ‘Mainland’ towns. I make a small detour at Omakau to reach Ophir, where I’m richly rewarded with gold-mining history and the charm of commercial buildings dressed in schist facades. It feels like a Hollywood recreation of a mining town … except this is real. It would be easy to spend more time here for lunch, dinner or even overnighting but my sleeping bag and tent on the back of my silver steed are destined for Ranfurly – a long day ride for me, but normally ridden in two.

Further along the trail, just past lovely Lauder

I reach the Poolburn Gorge, often considered the highlight of the trail. It is definitely one of mine.

Climbing gently from the town is the curved viaduct over the willow-lined Manuherikia River – one of the longest viaducts on the trail and a graceful span to behold. Not long after this the trail enters the gorge, slowly winding up the hill to one of two long tunnels – the cold air in the darkness of the tunnel is a welcome respite from the furnace-like conditions outside. I’m not one for heat, but my wife is. She was lapping it up! After crossing a second viaduct high above the Ida Burn there is a blissful descent into Oturehua. Although I’m writing about ‘hills’, the thing to keep in mind is that trains don’t generally go up steep inclines, so biking the Otago Central Rail Trail is generally a mellow affair – at least with regard to gradients. Wind, snow and heat … well you take your chances there folks. There can be some real extremes here, and it is part of what makes the ride special. The land is forged by those forces, and somehow you just absorb it. Soak it in. Feel this land get under your skin, knowing it will call you back once you return home.

Oturehua is the home of the seemingly unchanged and nostalgic Gilchrist’s General Store – the oldest operating in the country. Entering the store is the closest I will ever get to being a time traveller, with the inside of the store being just like those from old cowboy movies. I grapple with pronunciation of this town’s name so much so that I am helped by some ‘Oh-Terry-Who-A’ locals.

Also on the edge of ‘Oh-Terry’ is Heritage NZ’s Hayes Engineering Works and Homestead – a must-do in my view. Even for the least mechanically minded,

3 the Hayes museum is a delight. A tour of the workshop is exceptional with working belts, bellows and tool boxes that give an insight to an entrepreneurial couple of the 1800s. The whole place whirs and whines, and belts flap and machines grind. Fantastic! It’s often open to the public, but not always running. Told here is the incredible story of pioneer Ernest who invented a range of ingenious tools to simplify his farm work.

Meanwhile his wife, Hannah, dressed in an anklelength skirt, took intrepid bicycle trips for multiple days at a time right throughout the wild Maniototo and Mackenzie selling the homemade tools – 100 years before the rail trail was even just rail!

1. The Poolburn Gorge is a delightful experience

2. The Gilchrist General Store

is like going back to yesteryear (OCRTM and James Jubb) 3. Visiting Golden Progress poppet head makes for an interesting detour off the trail 4. Ophir’s Red Bridge (Daniel O’Connell Bridge) is a worthy detour (OCRTM and Tim Hawkins)

4 Special Edition 2019

59

Central Otago

Otago Central Rail Trail

5

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www.bikeitnow.co.nz 60

Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

6 Not far away and just off the trail is the Golden Progress underground mine; a short walk takes us past tailings to the mine shaft. This is a great place to hop off the saddle for a stroll into the scrubby foothills, past a cute stone miner’s cottage before reaching the original large wooden structure of the poppet head. That’s the big frame thing above a mine shaft with a cable hoist that lowered and raised equipment and miners.

This poppet head is one of only two left in the country. The shaft here is 45 metres deep. I’ve waypointed this place into my GPS, so Great Rides App users can find their way here.

Back on the main trail I climb up to the highest point of the trail on Seagull Hill (618m). From here the trail is generally downhill passing Wedderburn to reach the Maniototo Plains – a section of trail that looks as if a cartographer has drawn a 15-kilometre straight line across the map. Wedderburn was made famous in Grahame Sydney’s painting of the railway station – looking so bleak you feel cold just looking at it. In fact it made Wedderburn SO famous that the good people of Wedderburn relocated the railway building back onto the rail trail. Halfway along the plains Ranfurly beckons, and my tired legs come to a halt. It’s been a long day of riding and recording, so much so that I’m too late to take on provisions in small-town New Zealand.

I pitch my tent at the local campground, eat a Chelsea bun and turn in early – spending only a few minutes awake in the art deco capital of the south. Next morning, I return to the cartographer’s line shooting like an arrow across the Maniototo Plains.

The next notable feature on the trail is ‘blink-and-you’ll-miss-it’

Waipiata before reaching the upper Taieri Gorge – my friends have stayed in the Waipiata Pub on two previous rail trail trips and loved the welcoming environment and wholesome food. Meanwhile I get to the gorge which offers a visual transition both in geology and land cover. As I ride through rail cuttings, I see exposed volcanic basalt intrusions coupled with schist; the familiar dry brown landscape now revealing hints of green. The gorge is a welcome break from the plains, with a tunnel and viaducts … or is that bridges? Google tells me that all viaducts are bridges, and yet not all bridges are viaducts – I never got to the bottom of that.

When I pass an unassuming rail cutting past Hyde I’m dragged back to a sadder focus – a dark part of our country’s history. The Hyde railway disaster occurred in 1943 just prior to the then ‘King’s Birthday’ weekend. The tragedy occurred at Straws Cutting. Here in a curved slot cut through a hill, a steam train travelling at 112kph failed to negotiate a 48kph bend. The train derailed and the impact was massive. The engine ploughed on 60 metres from where it left the tracks, seven passenger carriages derailed, four of them concertinaed together with the second carriage somehow ending up in front of the engine.

The attending doctor described the scene as being like the result of a bomb blast. Twenty-one passengers perished. One surviving passenger unbelievably got thrown out one window, hit the bank and rebounded back in through another window! First to reach the horrific scene was a local farmer. This was his land. His son had boarded the train at Hyde just minutes before. Heartbreakingly his son was among the dead.

The train driver was found drunk and was later imprisoned for three years.

7

8 5. One of the several former railway tunnels that allow cyclists to cool off as they ride through them (OCRTM and Tim Hawkins) 6. The Wedderburn shed provides a welcome shelter on the Maniototo (OCRTM and James Jubb) 7. The magic of the former railway line, the schist outcrops and the legendary trail 8. It feels like the trains departed not long ago (OCRTM - Hannah Cameron Randall) Special Edition 2019

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Central Otago

Otago Central Rail Trail

9 After passing the rock cairn memorial near the point of the crash, the trail straightens soberly as it stretches towards Middlemarch, so named because the two nearby rivers are separated by a creek which formed a border or ‘march’ between them. At Middlemarch is a fascinating and sudden transition between the end of the cycle trail and the beginning of the still-operational train line to Dunedin. It caught me off guard.

The town has a real country feel about it with a few cycle operators and

cafés thrown into the traditional mix, showing the trail is bringing new opportunities to small towns in the region. I decide to treat myself to a large meat pie and salad after my meagre meal the night before. It’s really good. As I wait for my shuttle back, I reflect on my journey of the past two days, and revisit the question I posed right at the start.

Is the rail trail popular because of its status as the original Great Ride, or does it have greatness through its own merits? Having now

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Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

Statistics

152km, Easy Grade 1 Official Links: otagocentralrailtrail.co.nz/ Great Rides App: Download the app free from the App Stores ridden all of the 22 Great Rides I know that each trail brings something exceptional to the national cycle trails. The special qualities I discovered on this trail were the rich pioneering history across the prairie-like landscape, the romantic railway-era realism while crossing viaducts, and the big-sky vistas that come into view on exiting the tunnels. This trail bursts with greatness.

Trails, like people, become legendary not necessarily by being the best, but by venturing into uncharted areas, pushing the frontiers, and being so fresh that others will follow in their tyre tracks. In my eyes, thanks to the Trust’s vision, this grandfather of trails has shared its wisdom through the wrinkles of time to a new generation of Great Rides. Half of the NZ Great Rides that have followed since, have some portion utilising former railway corridors.

I suspect that were it not for construction of the original railway that opened over a hundred years ago, and this trail that followed after its closure, the NZ Great Rides as we know them may not have come to life. Life without the Great Rides wouldn’t have been so great, and riding greatness would have been measured by the muddiness of shared 4WD tracks we’d be riding instead – so thanks Otago Central Rail Trail. You’re the Granddaddy of Greatness!

This story featured in RV Lifestyle issue 71.

10 9. In parts the trail is a straight line on a map (OCRTM and Tim Hawkins) 10. The shelters scattered along the trail provide much appreciated refuge

(OCRTM and Tim Hawkins)

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63

Queenstown

Cycle Trail

QUEENSTOWN TRAIL A Great Ride – Wakatipu Way-Pointing Story + Photos Gary Patterson or as credited

A

fter riding around the globe finding the best trails to map, I returned home to the shores of Lake Wakatipu only to discover that the Adventure Capital (Queenstown) was about to open its own cycle network. While familiar with the area, I was eager to explore parts of the Wakatipu basin that were unreachable by road – uncharted paths in my mind leading to new adventures. Intrigued by the freshly laid gravels that wound around the contours of the basin, I was dead keen.

The initial challenge for riders is where to start. There is a mix of loops and branches on offer that take in many of varied sights, so deciding where to power up my GPS units was my first decision. Should I sample the three river systems and two lakes beside the trail, or indulge in the Arrowtown heritage and then the tasty treats tucked away in the Gibbston Valley? I decided to both sample and indulge!

I have ridden the existing lakeside trail from downtown Queenstown to Frankton many a time, so I elect to leave instead from the Jacks Point Clubhouse on the southern outskirts of town. Here in this swanky and rapidly mushrooming housing estate I enter my first waypoint, and steer my bike lake-ward. What I experience is a brilliant rolling traverse that skirts the elevated banks of the shimmering Lake Wakatipu – as the Adventure Capital draws closer, the presence of paragliders, jet boats and aeroplanes increases

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Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

the tempo. It’s exciting. I find my pace picking up.

I turn the corner onto Kelvin Heights Peninsula and I am rewarded by more grand views over the lake with the mountains framed by a 2.5-tonne schist rock sculpture called Thru Link To Peak by landscape artist Shane Wooldridge.

It was commissioned by the Queenstown Trails Trust in conjunction with the Lakes District Council. Nearby, a herd of corrugated iron goats (Kelvin Peninsula Goats

by Jeff Thomson) ‘graze’ above me, and a bit further on a giant Corten rusted-steel statue dwells quietly in the pine forest – it is Presence, one of two Mark Hill works here.

This part of the trail is becoming known unofficially as the ‘Sculpture Trail’ and it is a delight. While I could park up here with the goat herd to appreciate the vista, I urge my own steel steed onward.

Before I know it I am pedalling beside the sheltered Frankton Arm passing exclusive homes, and I arrive at Chargeabout Queenstown – an electric-bike rental and sales outfit owned by Campbell Read. Cam started this business five years ago while working in the area. He was blown away by the smashing trail network and outstanding landscape beauty, but he thought that the trails were a bit hilly for some and wanted to break down the barrier to allow folk to have a more enjoyable and comfortable experience of the trails, so he started Chargeabout.

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2 1. A winter wonderland of trail adventures (credit: Queenstown Trail) 2. Chargeabout’s fancy Moustache e-bikes to hire or purchase (credit: Chargeabout Queenstown)

3. Jacks Point – a remarkable start to my journey 4. Hanging out beside the Kawarau River in the Gibbston Valley (credit: Jim Pollard Goes Click)

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Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

Cam mentioned that during his start up “the e-bike revolution was underway with questions from customers about what an e-bike is and when could they rent one.” He added, “Business is booming, with our recharge points now dotted along the trail network so our riders don’t suffer battery anxiety. We are delighted when folk, after a day’s riding, comment that this was their favourite local experience, rating it higher than a chopper ride or throwing themselves off a bridge.”

I had never hopped on one of those newfangled e-bikes so Cam passes me one. It’s all gloss and gleam. I give it a shot. It takes next to no time for me to get used to the extra power from the pedal-assist mechanism, which gives the ride an intuitive feel to aid my effort. I like it. It feels a bit naughty – a little sneaky-trickster feeling. When my legs are older I will have my own, but for now I farewell Cam and hop on my battery-less beast to power off under my own steam.

After crossing the old Falls Dam bridge next to its flash replacement at the lake outlet, which is the Kawarau River, I find myself in Frankton – Queenstown’s burgeoning overflow of commercial growth that encircles the international airport. The Falls Dam bridge opened in 1926, built primarily as a dam to allow those seeking gold to stop the river flow and scoop up fortunes in gold from the reef below the dam. They stopped the river. Crowds looked on from the banks. Investors surged into the wet river bed to pick up the gold. But there was almost no gold to be found. Still it was great to have a bridge over the river … even though the road south to Kingston (where I live) wouldn’t be complete for a decade. Such is the call of gold.

I escape urbanism on the purpose-built trail to head downstream on the Twin Rivers Trail section, following the Kawarau River’s willowlined banks. A bend in the trail at the confluence with the Shotover River leads to the historic restored bridge towering over its waters.

This is a magnificent structure to ride, once used by horse and cart, and then motorcars and now only by the rubber tread of shoes and cycles. The wooden deck sounds good under my tyres. It also means riders completely avoid the highway bridge.

I take photos; it is hard not to at this beautiful spot, with views to Coronet peak to the north and the Remarkables to the south.

Keen to continue mapping, I point my silver steed downstream to meet up with the Kawarau at the confluence again, to follow its banks on an undulating trail to the Lake Hayes Estate subdivision. It’s a seemingly remote part of the network except for the occasional low-flying jet that squeezes down between hillsides, passing low overhead and providing drama to my ride. I choose to turn off the main route that follows the river 4 towards the Kawarau Gorge before it splits again to take one either to Arrowtown or to the Gibbston valley. The choices to be made here are easy … it’s all good and there’s no wrong choice! So I opt to pass through slowly maturing Lake Hayes Estate, following an urban cycleway, to connect with the Lake Hayes track around the ‘mirror lake’ as Lake Hayes proper is sometimes referred to. The track is a gem of a circuit around this picture-postcard scenery which surely stamps its mark with some of the best reflections in the country. If visited in autumn, the leaves’ seasonal colours combined with Arrowtown’s splendorous backdrop make it a memorable ride to soak up the last of the warmth before heading into winter.

After sweating my way up a steep river terrace, away from the shade of the willows lining the trail and back past the Shotover bridge, I stop. I tell myself to check my GPS and replace my batteries to continue recording, but really … I just like taking in these beautiful surrounds. Then I’m back in motion towards Arrowtown and beyond. Before reaching the

Arrow River I begin to climb Christine’s Hill, the steepest hill on the network. Now I wish I had one of Cam’s magic helpers. Yes I do! On reaching Millbrook Resort the ride becomes a pathway which gently follows the manicured curves of this pristine golfing estate – the trail shoots right through its richness into Arrowtown. As I pass Provisions of Arrowtown café and their famous sticky buns, I reflect on my last local trip where I parked at the bike rack and devoured their delights.

Today is a work trip so my legs keep working.

Riding out of town, the trail follows the banks of the Arrow River downstream, my tyres collecting leaf litter that makes a dry crunchy clatter.

The Arrow bridge section creates more memories, with its charming delivery of trail that follows the gentle brook before it transforms into raging rapids through deeply incised ravines. This trail was part of a vision of a national network of cycle trails, a vision that later became the Great Rides scattered up and down both islands. When I reach the first of the new suspension bridges I reflect on the trail opening by Prime Minister John Key – the cutting of the ribbon in 2012 was the beginning of our country’s most popular Great Ride. It led to my job creating the Great Rides App. Wow! Not long after crossing a span over the most precarious of drops, I hear the screams from the Kawarau River bridge. This is the welcoming holler of bungee. 3…2…1…. BUNGEE! Was that the ‘ka-ching’ of a cash register I heard on the breeze? The trail sneaks across the same old bridge where the bungee business originally started, and I pass behind nervous patrons awaiting their jump. It was challenging when I biked across: what do I look at? – the exposure out into the void below the bridge, the quivering bravado of a harnessed naked fellow waiting his turn, or the weaving throng of people on the bridge deciding if they could do it … or not? I couldn’t bear to jump. Forget doing it bare!

The bridge is a lovingly restored structure over the gorge that opens up into the Gibbston Valley – the final section of trail for my ride today.

Another new business that has a big focus in the Gibbston Valley is Fork and Pedal Tours. Owner and guide Kate Scrimshaw kicked off her business last season, giving riders a taste of the trail as well as helping

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Local experts specialising on the Queenstown Trail

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Queenstown

Cycle Trail

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7 6. Wakatipu basin offers a lifetime of scenic views (credit: Queenstown Trail)

7. The trailside sculptures add flair to the riding experience

them to sample the fine wineries of the valley. Kate mentioned the other day to me that her self-guided tour has become the most popular trip especially with honeymooners. She loves the way the trail gets riders off the highway and how it affords people of all ages, both local and from abroad, the chance to walk, jog, or bike through this landscape and the vineyards within the valley.

Near day’s end, with my last pedal strokes, I start thinking about the vision of Queenstown Trails Trust to realise and build this network.

New CEO of the Trust, Mark Williams, started his role about a year ago. He has a passion for riding, especially the local trails which now align with his working endeavours. When I talked to Mark recently about our local Great Ride, he recognised the amazing foundation his peers had laid out getting the trail off the ground (or should that be onto the ground?) and how well the trails are maturing. Plans are in place to increase the connections between local communities, and develop other riding choices to make this trail even more outstanding. Cool!

My reflections fade as the trail terminates near the Nevis Bluff – a formidable natural barrier where the Kawarau River cuts through the gorge to Cromwell, where I enter my last waypoint. A separate and exciting project, that is underway, hopes to link the Queenstown Trails right through to Cromwell at the other end of the Kawarau Gorge, and on to Clyde. My mind bubbles away plotting a grand adventure ahead. The thought of biking from my Kingston home on an epic fortnight-long trip that links 4–5 Great Rides to reach Dunedin 500 kilometres away, is almost unreal … but it’s becoming real. I enter my last Wakatipu waypoint in Gibbston, with thoughts of future waypoints to collect when trails become joined. The Great Rides will become unbelievably greater!

This story featured in RV Lifestyle issue 69.

Statistics

120km, grade Easy/Advance (Grades 2-4) Official Links: queenstowntrail.co.nz/ Great Rides App: Download the app free from the App Stores 68

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Coming Around the Mountains

1

The Around the Mountains cycle trail is a 180km, 3–5-day-trail that takes in some of New Zealand’s most beautiful and stunning scenery in Otago and Northern Southland.

It includes 56km of former railway line, 64km of new trail and 53km of wilderness. Gary leaves Queenstown and heads ‘Around the Mountains’ on his bike, an adventure like no other.

Story + Photos Gary Patterson or as credited

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Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

C

an there be a better start to a trail than farewelling the ‘Adventure Capital of the World’ and plying across a pristine lake on a 100-year-old steamship, with a backdrop of the most remarkable mountains? Well if there is, I want to find it! Leaving Queenstown (or should that be ‘Queenopolis’ given the recent population explosion?), you leave the bustle of business for simpler shores. The trip on the TSS Earnslaw is like the briefest of ocean journeys spiriting you away to a whole new land; and once you leave the steamship’s dark coal-smoke clouds 3 behind, a fresh new journey begins.

I have guided many cycle groups on this trail and have noticed how riders hop off the boat, full of anticipation of what lies ‘around the mountains’, fizzing in their excitement, much like I imagine how the first pioneers who arrived on these shores might have felt. I love the way that in less than an hour cyclists go from comfort to corrugations as they ride towards the Von Valley. I can still picture some of their smiles as they pedal lakeside with the hanging glaciers over their shoulder, while steady headwinds try to blow them backwards.

Their joy persists on the trail between two farm stations, before heading inland, when stern faces contemplate the Von Hill appearing ahead .

Any cycle-tour leader knows that word-choice is critical for describing an ascent. It is something that they don’t teach you but you soon learn.

What is merely an undulation for some is a hill for others, and the same hill can be a mountain for yet others. The wrong term from me could mean no relief from the riders tormenting me about my description for the rest of the tour. Sometimes it is best to just point to the feature rather than describe it. So I just point. Arriving at the climb sees a few of us walk, some ride, while some do a bit of both; either way it is an achievement to rise 300 metres onto the barren plateau at the top and leave Otago behind. Now we’re in northern Southland. This plateau can be a harsh environment despite being a public road. In the Von Valley there is no thick scrub or building to offer shelter, no cellular service, and being up at 700 metres in the south it can be bone chilling at any time of the year.

The Von brings back fond memories of my spring data collection for the Great Rides App I have built. The Von was the place I trialled my equipment before venturing nationwide. The three GPS units attached to my bike became my trusty cycle log. The first tracking point I gathered in the Von quickly snowballed to five million at the end of my Great Year. That’s a lot of data! With the devices recording and my wife and I dressed for a snowstorm, we rode through this beautiful valley.

My gloved frozen digits soon became clumsy appendages, hopeless for entering waypoints of passing trail features on the GPS. The features we saw and recorded were something else. A tussock terrace hemmed in by craggy mountains was a delightful highlight; it’s no wonder the Tour Aotearoa cyclists who ride the length of the country rank this valley so highly. After crossing some chilling fords we reach the historic Bullock Creek Hut. It’s a privately owned musterers’ hut open to the public for day use only. It was built right back in the early pastoral days. I am fascinated at the use of beech tree branch framing inside the hut, the rough sawn cladding, and the views down the Von through its rustic six-pane window. Shepherds once wintered here to keep sheep below the snowline of the Eyre Mountains. Brrr! It would have been a scenic, remote and frigid existence for those pioneers.

We continue pedalling, extremities still numb from the cold, while my GPS units collect data plotting our tyre tracks as we ride to more lakes ahead.

If there was a jewel along this majestic trail it would have to be the Mavora Lakes. Just a few metres off the main trail and surrounded by a canopy of virgin rainforest, is another world much like that of Middle Earth – in fact there are several filming locations within a Hobbit’s hop of these two lakes. When you reach the first marked viewpoint on this side trail, a lake view opens up to South Mavora; the suspension bridge over the lake outlet seems unreal. The lake edges have no buildings, and to cross the lake is to enter a wilderness. Continuing further along the road to North Mavora brings us to the grassy terraces of a Department of Conservation basic campsite offering some of the most idyllic tenting options in the front country. We pitched our tent after our ride and took a forest walk – careful not to disturb hiding Hobbit’s – before hitting the sack. As morning broke, we headed outside where the sandflies were truly mean suckers. We were out of there lickety-split!

4 1. It’s no wonder Tour Aotearoa riders found the Von a real highlight 2. The graceful curves of this trail are a nice break from the straight railway lines 3. Mavora Lakes is a majestic gem and well worth a small detour (Credit – Around the Mountains Images) 4. The only traffic we found on the Von Special Edition 2019

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Southland

Otago Cycle Trail

5 5. On some sections the trail has rail 6. The second half of the trail

passes through scenic farmlands 7. Northern Southland offers the most scenic of spots (Credit – Around the Mountains Images)

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Back on the main trail the gravel road continues south before arcing eastward through farmland. Under normal weather conditions this is a welcome turn as the prevailing westerly wind will now push us along. Soon we reach the Centre Hill cattle-yards where we hop onto the purpose-built cycle trail. Here civilisation starts to reappear. The ‘Around the Mountains’ trail was one of seven quick-start projects of the overall NZ Cycle Trail project. This trail was proposed in two parts; however, the first stage, following the Oreti River of the Von, got tied up in Environment Court cases and sadly was later abandoned. As a result, the original second stage became the first and the purpose-built cycle trail starts near the cattle-yard. With a howling westerly at our backs we made good speed on this wide and flat trail – it was one of those days when a sail would have been useful. For a distance the trail playfully mimics the snaking bends of a freshwater spring-fed creek.

It is lovely riding.

We are not alone in benefiting from the breeze. Massive blades of wind farm turbines flash as they come into view, heralding our arrival at the back streets of Mossburn – the deer capital of New Zealand. Following the demise of a deer processing factory, the town is now supported by farming and the increasing tourist traffic flocking to Fiordland. At about the halfway point on the Around the Mountains trail, Mossburn is the first township of several along the way. Some people will stop and choose from a couple of places to eat and will stay here. Not us.

We continue east.

Next, we negotiate the Mossburn Slaloms, a series of power poles that weirdly and annoyingly ended up right in the middle of the trail, before we reach the junction to Lumsden. Lumsden was formerly known as ‘The Elbow’ as it is where the river turned 90 degrees, and was also known as ‘The Hub’ as it was at a railway crossroads. Today the rails

have become trails, and tourists have replaced trains at the former Lumsden railway station – a hectic gathering place each night where freedom campers come in to roost. The free overnight parking here is proving extremely popular with the punters, and while dividing the opinion of locals, there is no denying that it keeps the largest town on the trail full of life. We cycle north, passing The Elbow, coming around the Eyre Mountains, to head for the bottom of Lake Wakatipu.

Onwards we travel through blink-and-you’ve-missed-it Five Rivers and then over the Jollies hills before dropping into the Mataura catchment. The trail hops over a couple of creeks with the help of some suspension bridges before reaching the small township of Athol.

One of the highlights of Athol is a brand-spanking-new custom-built art gallery beside the trail. If you are after some local art for a lasting memory of your ride, then park your bike and peruse. Even if you don’t want to buy anything, have a look at the depth of talent on show in here. Wow! After appreciating the works we point our bikes in the direction of the ‘Golden Gates’, two towering and beautiful cycle trail suspension bridges over the Mataura River. These bridges are a sure-fire photo stop, a visual celebration of structural engineering.

The trail continues to follow the former railway line down a long straight into the settlement of Garston. Garston’s claim to fame: New Zealand’s most inland village. Recently it has had an upsurge of commercial activity providing a new place to eat and stay as well as two stores – one selling locally crafted art, jewellery and homewares, the other an eclectic mix of imported furniture and New Zealand honey …

6 odd, but in a small town one does what works. Garston seems to be on the up! As I sip a hot chocolate in the sun and look up to the skyline, I feel warmed in body and mind by memories formed in the hills above us. The prominent rock feature I’m looking at on top of the Slate Range is Welcome Rock, a place where I spent several seasons, both designing and building (by hand) a cycle trail, with landowner and good mate Tom. I can still remember those cold winter days, clearing snow to cut trail on these former gold miners’ water races. My thoughts return to the present as the Kiwi flag above us starts to flutter then flap; the afternoon anabatic wind will be our friend helping us home to Kingston.

7 Special Edition 2019

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Southland

Otago Cycle Trail

8

8. Kingston wharf is the end

of the line (Credit – Around the Mountains Images) 9. The Golden Gate suspension bridge is a real photo stopper (Credit – Around the Mountains Images)

We ride north, crossing the Mataura River twice and passing the former railway station of Fairlight. Perhaps you’ve seen it featured on a TV One promotional advert showing a ball rolling along its dilapidated platform. Just before Lake Wakatipu comes into view we pass Trotters homestead, the remains of stone walls the only remnant of the first European settlers’ home in the area. After saving a waypoint marking this historic ruin we head downhill, a fast

flowing trail through former glacier moraines and terminating at the quaint lakeside village of Kingston.

The wharf that extends out into the clear waters marks the finish of the trail that traverses around the mountains of southern Wakatipu. It is quite fitting that the end of the trail at the end of the Kingston railway branch is the site of the well-known and loved Kingston Flyer steam train. In 1911 the Flyer brought the TSS Earnslaw (where our adventure began) up to

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aroundthemountains aroundthemountainscycletrail

here from Dunedin in sections, to be reassembled, launched and used as a ferry before a road ever reached Queenstown. Heritage encircles our cycle journey.

By riding the Around the Mountains trail we have come around the Eyre Mountains – a series of rugged ranges separating the Von Valley from Kingston and Lake Wakatipu. The range was named after a New Zealand Lieutenant-Governor of both the lower North Island (New Ulster/Northern Island) and the South Island (New Munster/Middle Island) in the early settlement days. I prefer the Māori name for the ranges of ‘Taka Ra Haka’ which refers to the sun dancing along the mountain tops in the evenings. At our home in Kingston, we measure the advance of summer by the extent the sun skips over the ridgeline above our house – some days, the troughs between peaks bathe us in 10 minutes more sunbeams than the day prior. At journey’s end I reflected on the trail and the experiences it delivered. It’s a journey of

contrasts; fleeing from civilisation to the wild; riding on-road before going off-road; and from barren open expanses to forest-filled valleys.

I liked how we departed the lake before circling right back to its shores.

Yes, this trail is about leaving the bustle and being taken on a journey around the mountains, circling Taka Ra Haka – to a place where the sun frolics along the mountain tops.

This story featured in RV Lifestyle issue 72.

10. Fairlight station heralds the last stop before Kingston

Trail update

This trail now has several shelters and toilets within Von Valley, comforting for cyclists on the first day’s ride due to the elevated, exposed and quite remote aspects of the trail.

Statistics

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Fiordland

Lake 2 Lake

Southern Lake Linking Thanks to the Fiordland Trails Trust, it is now possible to ride around and explore the twin lakes of Te Anau and Manapouri Story Gary Patterson Photos Gary Patterson and as credited

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Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

F

iordland, a paradise packed with dramatic landscapes, and blessed with plentiful huts and hiking tracks including three Great Walks; yet surprisingly barren of cycle trails.

Wheels of change are in motion though. As a result of the incredible efforts of the Fiordland Trails Trust, the tread of my tyres can now easily explore the fringes of the Fiordland forest between the beautiful twin lakes of Te Anau and Manapouri.

Driving into Te Anau on the most perfect of mornings we park up and begin to consider our ride. While the Lake 2 Lake is a linear journey, there are a few ways to enjoy this trail; should we break it into sections, get a pick-up from a local shuttle provider at trail’s end, or do a loop and ride back using local roads? We decide to ride from Te Anau towards Manapouri before returning the way we had come. Sometimes I ponder how much easier it would be to already have these trails on the Great Rides App to aid in planning my trips – on the flip side it would mean I would not get to ride such incredible trails up and down the country to add them to the App I’ve been working on for the past few years. After these needless circular arguments, I attach my GPS units to my bike, strap on a packed lunch and, together with my wife, reach the trailhead beside the Te Anau Department of Conservation Visitor Centre.

Special Edition 2019

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Lake 2 Lake

1 I push play on the GPS units and we’re off to have fun in this stunning southern playground. The sun was starting to burn holes in the low cloud, revealing small patches of blue sky and the peaks of the Kepler Mountains that we were riding towards. Town behind us, adventure in front. This section of trail winds its way along the lake edge. The trail is wide and is shared with many hikers carrying heavy packs for their multi-day trip on the Kepler Track. We felt light and free. The flowing trail, with its sweeping bends through the shrub forest, soon opens up to a clearing where we make our first stop – Te Anau Bird Sanctuary.

We hop off our bikes right by the wildlife enclosures which are home to rare and endemic birdlife. The aviaries contain kea, kākā, morepork, and parakeets, while other native birds on the outside are busily fluttering around nectar feeders. The various species in this sanctuary are held in captivity because they have been hurt and are either on the mend or would no longer survive in the wild. Some are also part of captive

breeding programmes. This is a fabulous place to stop off on the ride and see birds that are tricky to see in the wild. I was captivated by the takahē enclosure with fluffy chicks being fed by foster parents. If you reach the sanctuary around mid-morning you may be lucky enough to watch the daily feeding by wildlife rangers. It’s great! I find it crazy that you can switch your attention from the enclosure towards the lake and see in the distance the Murchison Mountains where the last few remaining takahē were re-discovered in the late 1940s, before conservation efforts brought them back from the brink of extinction.

We leave the sanctuary behind, to make discoveries of our own along the trail as we ride towards the lake outlet.

A few kilometres along the shoreline we reach Lake Te Anau outlet, with control gates acting as a bridge over the Waiau River to provide access to the Kepler Track. I stop to take photos of the water flowing through the gates and note the expressions on trampers faces; as the

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2 eager enter, the weary return on foot from Fiordland National Park.

We do not cross this threshold as the park does not permit cyclists; instead we continue to follow the cycle trail on the Te Anau side of the Waiau River. We are not unhappy about being outside the park as our trail is wide, gentle and easy compared to that on the opposite bank.

Downstream we trace the clear waters of the Waiau through gloomy beech forest. The trail undulates a bit, just enough to work up a light sweat on the hills without tiring. At times we stop and appreciate the elevated views high above the snaking river. We discover as we ride that occasionally the river currents switch back on themselves, in some cases creating nearly impossible bows beside the trail like that at Horseshoe Bend, or the crazy twists at Balloon Loop, and forgotten river depressions that now form oxbow lakes. This is fascinating river hydrology that the trail explores. When we re-enter forest we are shaded from the midday sun and offered only glimpses of the river, while the open sections that skirt farmland offer expansive views of the mountains we are heading towards. I love the intermingling of land cover that this trail shares.

After passing Queens Reach, an open reserve for launching anglers’ boats, we climb back into the forest where the trail narrows a little and cuts into the bank aggressively to negotiate the steep terrain. Here the trail seems to intimately hug the trunks of giant trees on either side before widening as it reaches the river terrace. After passing by a placid

3 oxbow lake and climbing another river terrace, the trail descends to Rainbow Reach which is a second access point to the Kepler Track. At the Reach it’s worth hopping off the saddle for a break and walking across the suspension bridge over the Waiau River. Here the river is clear and wide, so clear in fact that with the sun on our backs I can see every submerged boulder for nearly a hundred metres downstream.

Beauty abounds.

After our blissful gazing we leave the Reach and continue riding south. I relish the feeling of wilderness as the trail winds under a canopy of trees. Then suddenly at Balloon Loop our heads turn and our mouths open so wide that we could have been mistaken for the rotating clown’s heads at amusement shows. We are in awe as the forest breaks just enough to let us catch a magnificent vista. Over time, the braided channels of pristine water have cut into the massive shingle cliffs downstream at Boulder Reach, and across the river is a band of forest with a backdrop of craggy mountains framed by a blue sky. We had found a perfect spot for lunch, to sit and eat crackers while taking in a cracker of a view.

At present, Balloon Loop is the temporary trailhead, and to link to the next section it is necessary to ride along the highway for four kilometres to Supply Bay Road. Currently the Fiordland National Park management plan does not permit bicycles – but it is under review. It is hoped that with management plan changes, the policy will allow cycling on designated formed tracks, which will in turn help the Trails Trust connect the gap between the Te Anau and Manapouri trails.

The next section of trail takes us through scrubland, with occasional glimpses of Lake Manapouri and its various headlands and islands. Abruptly the trail exits the scrub as we arrive at the lakeside village of Manapouri.

You know you have reached the trailhead when you see the hydroelectric turbine and the large rock that marks the height the lake would have reached, had the ‘Save the Manapouri’ campaign failed. There is an interesting plaque about the campaign which we stop and read.

1. Can the views of a morning ride start off any better?

2-3. Viewing the takahē enclosure is a real highlight on the trail

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4. The Lake Te Anau control gates

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Lake 2 Lake

5 The ‘Save the Manapouri’ campaign is a tale of geology, hydrology and environment-ology (I know … I made it up but you know what it means!). In the mid-1950s a Kiwi geologist was sent to the tiny settlement of Weipa near the top tip of Australia (the first land sighting of Aussie by Dutch explorer Willem Janzoon in 1606 was here) to look for oil deposits. What he found was bauxite – the alumina-containing ore that can be converted to aluminium. It was the world’s largest find of the ore and remains the largest mine of the mineral to this day. Following that discovery, New Zealand’s southern lakes were assessed as a potential cheap source of the hydroelectric power needed to process the ore. The Ministry of Works developed a grand plan to tap the water from Lake Manapouri and release it via a tunnel to Doubtful Sound, and to maximise the efficiency of the power station it was proposed to raise Lake Manapouri by 30 metres! Raising the lake’s level would have meant that our seventh largest lake would have merged with the country’s second largest: Lake Te Anau. The flooding would have consumed forest, farms and settlements and created a super lake far bigger than any other on our shores. The controversy that subsequently erupted was New Zealand’s largest environmental battle with protesters collecting the signatures of 10 per cent of the country’s population. The protest and a change to

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a Labour government resulted in the lake level being left alone. Had the campaign failed, the Lake 2 Lake trail that I rode today would not exist. However, an alternative trail on a grander shore may have been called something like the Super Lake Trail!

As we finished reading the plaque and enjoying Manapouri’s pristine outlook I reflected on the ride. What I enjoyed the most about the trail is the ease of access between the twin lake settlements and a sense of wilderness despite an easy ride in the front country. The Trails Trust has done incredible work to bring this ride to life. The Trust also has ambitious plans for extending the trail west as well as north, and to one day reach Mavora Lakes and connect with the Around the Mountains Great Ride. Wouldn’t that be a sweet ride? As for me I make tracks; firstly by entering a waypoint, then saving my GPS data before we head home … satisfied that the southern twin lakes are not joined; only linked by the beautiful river that the Lake 2 Lake cycle trail follows along its meandering course.

This story featured in NZToday issue 83.

5. Descending back to wilderness 6. The Oxbow Lake is picture perfect 7. River riding at its best!

7 Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

Statistics

24km (+4km incomplete) and generally Easy Grade (Grade 2) Official Links: trailstrust.co.nz Great Rides App: Download the app free from the App Stores

Explore Doubtful Sound

Overnight Cruise

Spoil yourself on a relaxing Overnight Cruise Your Overnight Cruise includes: • Awesome scenery and amazing wildlife

• Small ship – friendly and knowledgeable crew • Fishing for your dinner

• Kayaking to explore up close

Phone 0508 888 656 or +64 3 249 9005 Email info@fiordlandexpeditions.co.nz Web fiordlandexpeditions.co.nz/overnight-cruise

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Routeburn Track

NATIVE BIRDS AND A NEW ZEALAND GREAT WALK

The Routeburn track in Mt Aspiring National Park is one of New Zealand’s nine Great Walks. A day trip from the eastern (Glenorchy) end to Routeburn Flats hut and return will not only give you a taste of an iconic New Zealand Great Walk but also give you the opportunity to see a variety of native bird life including a couple of rare species.

Story + Photos Matt Winter

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Routeburn Track

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1. Emerald-green pools just above the

gorge section 2. View looking down the Routeburn valley with Routeburn Flats hut at right 3. The very friendly hut tomtit. The DOC sign is one of his favourite perches 4. Stunning high country in the Routeburn north branch. Photograph taken from Routeburn Flats hut 5. Beautiful lush, waist-high ferns and every shade of green you could imagine 6. An adult male tomtit photographed on the side of the track 7. One of several well-built and sturdy bridges making for easy river crossings 8. Female tomtit. Note dull and drab colour compared to the male

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f you’re keen on experiencing a New Zealand Great Walk but don’t have the time or perhaps the fitness to complete the whole journey, the eastern Glenorchy end of the Routeburn track provides the opportunity for a very pleasant and relatively easy day walk. Depending on how fast you like to walk and how many times you stop to admire the magnificent scenery, five to eight hours is ample time to reach the Routeburn Flats hut and return to the car park. Being a Great Walk, the track itself is of very high quality, gravelled, and easily caters for ‘two abreast’ walking with gentle gradients.

For a slightly longer day, another option is to carry on past the hut and climb up through the bush to the Routeburn Falls which adds another two to three hours to the whole return trip. The views looking down onto the Routeburn from this location are stunning, not to mention the impressive 176-metre-high falls.

Aside from the superb scenery, the area is home to a wide variety of both native and introduced birds that can be seen without moving off the formed

track. Many of the better-known species such as tūī, bellbird, tomtit, kea, grey warbler and fantail are pretty much a given when walking this section of the Routeburn. Rarer species such as yellowfronted parakeet (kākāriki), brown creeper (pīpipi), yellowhead (mohua) and rifleman (titipounamu) are also present in relatively good numbers. The kākāriki sightings I had on the day were the most I have experienced in one area in over eight years as an avid wildlife photographer.

THE TRACK The start of the Routeburn track is located approximately 76km north-west of Queenstown and takes around one-and-a-half hours by car. The first 45 minutes of the trip is renowned as one of the top eight scenic drives in the world and will take you to the rustic and quaint little township of Glenorchy. A few cafés and shops, a small general store, a true country pub and a beautiful lake front are well worth stopping for.

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At the Routeburn-track car park at the end of Routeburn road, there is a large shelter and information boards. The panels include details and photographs of many local bird species and are a great way of learning or brushing up on your avian knowledge.

At the very beginning of the track you are treated with a rather iconic back-country experience ‌ a typical kiwi swing bridge across the Routeburn. Once across the bridge the track enters mature beech forest and begins very gently climbing. Twenty minutes later there is an option to turn left onto a short nature-walk loop track that will bring you back onto the main trail. The next main feature of the walk is a bridge over Bridal Veil Stream with some almost dizzying looks down into some very impressive steep-sided canyons.

During the lower section of the track you pass through areas of impressive waist-high fern. The tree trunks are covered in thick moss and lichen that are every shade of green you can imagine.

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After this point the valley tightens up somewhat and the track climbs steadily through the steep bushy faces above a gorge section of river.

Glimpses of roaring white water cascading down around huge boulders and canyons can be seen on your left until eventually the track levels off and quite suddenly breaks out into a wide, open valley with grassy flats.

In early June when I did the walk, the section of trail up to the grassy river flats was in shade and quite cold. For that reason bird life through here was not very abundant although I did see a few tomtits, fantails and on two occasions heard yellow-fronted parakeets high in the bush canopy.

The mood and ambience of the walk lifts immeasurably once you get out into the wider open part of the valley. The track meanders just inside the bush edge around the river flats and the encounters with bird life increase dramatically with rifleman and tomtits suddenly becoming regular sights along the track.

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Routeburn Track

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Before long, an intersection five minutes before the hut informs that a left turn here will take you up to Routeburn Falls hut and lodge.

The right-hand option leads you straight to Routeburn Flats hut and a welcome rest and lunch. There are toilets and running tap water at the hut.

When I arrived at the hut a very friendly tomtit greeted me immediately and was not shy in coming forward. Obviously, living around the hut and being used to people, the little guy showed no real fear and approached surprisingly close. During lunch and without very much effort I saw a huge variety of birds.

Aside from the friendly tomtit, I laid eyes on rifleman, chaffinch, goldfinch, red poll (which was quite a pleasant surprise), one small group of brown creepers, and two kea also flew over.

The bush edge running along the edge of the river flats upstream of the hut was the real gold-mine of this walk in terms of bird life. It is north facing (towards the sun) and therefore very much warmer than other parts of the valley, which would account for the proliferation of bird life there. The 600-metre section of bush edge produced the largest

concentration of yellow-fronted parakeet that I have ever seen. All other species already mentioned were encountered with the only ‘failure’ being that of yellowhead.

The hut and river flats area is a fantastic place to spend a few hours especially if you happen to be doing the walk in the colder months. The wide open area of the valley gets bathed in sunshine and becomes very relaxing to the point where you can lose track of time if not careful. I imagine a dip in the crystal clear river water would be on the cards in the middle of summer. The return trip is a pleasant downhill stroll and is quicker than the walk up.

This story featured in RV Lifestyle issue 66.

9. Yellow-fronted parakeet

taken on the bush edge only a hundred metres upstream of the hut 10. Close up of a kākāriki showing the beautiful vibrant greens of this species 11. Lovely reflections on a calm winter’s day

Routeburn Flats Hut Track at a Glance

Routeburn track shelter and car park situated 76km north-west of Queenstown and 25km from Glenorchy.

Grade: easy to moderate.

Time: 3 to 5 hours return. (Allow an extra couple of hours for ‘relaxing’ at the hut.)

Distance: 7km one way.

Birdlife to see yellow-crowned parakeet, yellowhead, kea, brown creeper, red poll, fantail, grey warbler, bellbird, tūī, finches, tomtit, rifleman.

Tips • Take a camera.

• Have a good read of information boards for details of bird species.

• The bush edge upstream of Routeburn Flats hut is the hot spot for bird sightings.

• For a longer day, carry on up to Routeburn Falls. This will add another 3 hours to the whole trip.

• Stop at Glenorchy on the way back for a well-deserved coffee.

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The Old Ghost Road

Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

Busting the Old Ghost Road The Old Ghost Road isn’t a trail for all – this is no leisurely flat cycle path through vineyards. It’s a trail that allows one to wrestle with raw nature, with punishing climbs and heritage that drips off the rainforest branches.

Story Gary Patterson Photos Gary Patterson and as credited

The trail is a backcountry mountain biker’s dream (Hage Photo)

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The Old Ghost Road

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t was pretty obvious from the outset that I wouldn’t be riding this epic alone. One mention of this legendary trail and friends came flocking. Who wouldn’t want to ride what is arguably our country’s greatest backcountry trail? It’s not a matter of ‘who you gonna call’ but who wouldn’t you call.

So, after one postponement due to severe weather we teamed up to tackle the trail for a couple of days. While not my first overnight riding adventure, it would be one of my longest climbs hauling gear to the tops. I wondered as I packed if there are riding Sherpas out there anywhere, or is this what mates are for? These were my thoughts as I squeezed my weighty overnight gear and mapping equipment into drybags the night before the trip.

Arrival at the trailhead at Lyell saw us hooded up for shelter as the drizzly clag drifted through. If the misty rainforest was not scary enough, visiting the bush cemetery behind the trailhead was freakily spooky – spooky, but cool. The sandflies here are anything but cool, pass

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the repellent! After double-checking the tracking of my GPS units, we started the climb with our bikes fully laden for our overnight adventure.

The climb is impressive; it’s a bit of a gut-buster – a thousand metres primarily on old pack track to the sub-alpine tops. As we pass some big slips, the mist starts to dissipate letting warm sunbeams penetrate the forest canopy. A group of kākā spiralled, plummeted and screeched out of the mists. With our heads down, muscles taut, pedalling and sweating for the tops in the filtered light, this will be with me forever.

Every moment was a biking blessing.

Reaching the cloud forest I was bust – a broken man. Each rotation of my chain was a challenge. As I climbed, my party slowly drifted away, evaporating like apparitions up the track as my sweat-stung eyes tried to see where they went. Then a magical moment as we reached the open tops. Relief! Unveiled were the most stunning mountain vistas, which I considered my personal reward for the hours of climbing. Before us were forest-clad mountains cloaked in wispy swirling vapours that

1. Some of the best back-country riding in the country

2. Tricky techie trail to negotiate 3. The phantom mists just wanted to envelop you

4. Passing between the twin lakes

4 weren’t quite cloud. Craggy peaks appeared above like castles in the sky. The trail ahead traversed their steep sides; it was as if a cobblestone pathway drew me forward. This was my sort of wonderland! Gone was the agony, miraculously cured by a rider’s paradise.

The skill required on the techie trail then stepped up a notch as it became narrow, exposed and loose, and the consequences of a mistake were more evident now. We started to grin and fizz. As we headed downhill the fist-sized rubble popped under our fat tyres as we whizzed past The Tombstone, a slab of rock that Obelix the Gaul could have well carried. Before long we descended a sweeping corner to find Ghost Lake Hut and the biv named ‘Tor’ that was to be our overnight home.

The view from the hut is outstanding. Sitting above the bush line and a sparkling tarn, it has a northerly aspect. From this airy perch we watched the foreboding clouds whipping along the tops. Despite it being summer the weather quickly deteriorated, and snow showers blanketed our backcountry home with an inch of white powder. However, we were snug in the hut, warmed by the fire and enriched by the company and chatter of folk from all different parts.

Later that evening, we retreated to our cold biv to hunker down in our sleeping bags, all layered up in our clothing. That’s not to deny the charm of the bivs associated with each of the main huts along the trail.

They’re well thought out sleeping dens with sheltered entranceways and shelves perfect for gear organising. There are many top notch hotels that would envy the views afforded us by our biv. Still... it was snowing out, and there wasn’t any heat except that produced by the four of us. Brrrrrr!

As morning light broke through the cloud we studied the map for the ride ahead. The contours below the hut squeezed tight like the wrinkles of age. Turns out the map didn’t lie – a series of switchbacks down a reasonably precipitous ridge had more than a few foot-dabs around the hairpin of the zigzags. After the really tight corners the downhill began to flow more, and descending at speed produced a youthful

vibe in all of us. Wrinkles be damned – we’re young and bullet proof again! It seemed only moments before we reached the Skyline Steps, a series of staircases to walk down before the speedy bliss continued to the valley floor. Back in the forest canopy we rode with joyful hearts.

The next challenge encountered was the Boneyard boulder field, a trail designers’ mischief. The trail passes between two lakes (called ‘Grim’ and ‘Cheerful’) and toppled blocky rocks that could be headstones on the graves of giants. Approaching the Boneyard, the chance of a rideable bike trail traversing it seemed impossible. The fact it was a climb through ludicrous rock-strewn terrain, and that we did it in a light rain shower yet still enjoyed it, is testament to the skill of the trail builders. These guys rock! The Boneyard is followed by a section called ‘Hanging Judge’ – another fascinating section of trail sending the rider on a less direct but more enjoyable exploration of the mountainous terrain. For some, this challenging climb might be grim, but me, I’m cheerfully relishing the trail designers’ creativeness and playful visions. Before long we reach the Mōkihinui River where we regroup at Goat Creek Hut and have a bite to eat. This is one of many huts along the track, and is by far the smallest, oldest and cutest. What it lacks in conveniences, it makes up for in character. There’s a story behind the hut’s diminutive size too.

It’s one of the first in the country to have been airdropped – seems it didn’t go quite as smoothly as planned. Something gave rise to some damaged materials (I’m picking more the landing than the take-off); as a result the hut was narrowed by a couple of feet. It’s a cosy wee thing and would be a welcome port in a storm I’m sure.

We left the hut together and crossed a huge suspension bridge over the river before following it downstream past the resurgence. This crystal clear cold-water spring is one of the largest in the Southern Hemisphere, and I stop and appreciate the feature before taking a GPS point to add it to the Great Rides App. We continue on the trail downstream and pass a couple more huts before entering the Mōkihinui Gorge. The newer huts on this trail are terrific – cosy and roomy at the same time.

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The Old Ghost Road

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They’re all well set up and have great views to boot.

The Gorge is something else. Crikey! How those early pioneers built a track and a road in the lower valley is beyond belief. At times the trail hugs the nearly vertical cliffs, somehow providing a foot – or wheel hold around the river bends. Not for the faint of heart this bit!

Then there are side creeks that have water-carved vertical walls; here there are more amazing suspension bridges without which we would be swimming for our lives. The forested gorge with churning white water rapids below and bluffs above us, is both exciting and scenic. I have a sense of being compressed before being spat out towards the

Statistics

Statistics: 85km, Advanced (Grade 4) Official Links: oldghostroad.org.nz Great Rides App: Download the app free from the App Stores

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Tasman Sea. It’s hard to believe this could have all been lost underwater in recent times by a proposed 85-metre hydroelectric dam. The defunct project would have formed a 14-kilometre lake up this gorge drowning the rapids, forest and historic trail. Near miss there, people. I continue to ride under my own power.

Just as we’re starting to tire, the walls of the gorge come to an abrupt end. After a flat finale, we reach the carpark and the arched trail gateway sign – the perfect spot to take that memorable snap to rub it in when posted on social media for those that couldn’t make it. I way-pointed the trailhead and took a few photos of the surrounds. Just out of the

5. The narrow near-

7 carpark is the beautifully situated Rough and Tumble Bush Lodge. Up we go to have some drinks, hot pizza and to yarn about our adventure, while we wait for our shuttle back to Lyell.

The Old Ghost Road isn’t a trail for all – this is no leisurely flat cycle path through vineyards. It’s a trail that allows one to wrestle with raw nature, with punishing climbs and heritage that drips off the rainforest branches. I marvel at the trail builders who spent months away from civilisation to build these cycling dreams. However, this is no field of dreams, this trail had riders trying to experience it before it was built.

In fact, it has become so popular in the mountain-bike community,

vertical cuts were spanned by suspension bridges 6. Tor Biv with a phantom vapour (credit Hage Photo) 7. Finishing the trail – an epic ending

that I struggled to get a hut booking many months ahead. It goes to show that you can build a trail in the middle of nowhere, far from any population centre, and providing it’s well designed, built and scenic, riders will come.

As we finished refuelling and revelling in our Old Ghost Road story I realised just how fortunate we were to ride this trail and have this epic escape. They say Australia is the lucky country, but with our national cycle trails, I think New Zealand is the luckiest of them all.

So .... who you gonna call?

This story featured in NZToday issue 81.

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+64 3 782 1337 info@roughandtumble.co.nz

Café open 10am - 5pm daily October - April

www.roughandtumble.co.nz

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Kawatiri River Trail

KAWATIRI RIVER TRAIL – VARIETY ALL IN ONE

If you’re after a bit of variety in your walks or bike rides, look no further than the Kawatiri River Trail along the banks of the Buller River, on the outskirts of Westport. The trail features native bush, tidal estuaries, a beach, an old railway, diverse bird life as well as a few ‘townie’ things like galleries and cafés Story + Photos Matt Winter

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he Kawatiri River Trail was the brainchild of the Buller Cycling Club who mustered together up to 100 local volunteers to transform river and seaside swamps and gorse-ridden land into 8km of stunning (and easy) cycling and walking trails beside the lower Buller River. Taking six years to complete, the last of the boardwalks and bridges were installed in early 2017.

The track starts off on the south side of Westport and after going through a variety of terrain and surroundings (including part of the town), ends up at the Buller River mouth and North Beach. So much variety in such a relatively short distance is very refreshing and a joy to experience. Another factor which I found rather pleasing is that the whole trail is very easy to negotiate whether you’re on Shanks’ pony or on two wheels. The trails and tracks have all been very well built with an overlay of fine gravel that makes for smooth riding and stumble-free walking.

THE TRAIL The Kawatiri River Trail starts under the Buller River bridge as you drive into Westport, on the east (or true right) side of the river.

On leaving the car park, the trail immediately enters a large tract of stunted native bush and continues through this for one kilometre towards town. The Buller River itself is only ever a stone’s throw from the track and in many spots there are short walking tracks through the bush down to the water’s edge. During the whitebait season, which runs from September 1 to November 14, you will come across fishers at various spots all the way down the river to the mouth, trying their luck at catching the tasty delicacies. You might even be able to ‘snag’ a small feed off someone if you play your cards right!

The first transformation in your surroundings comes when you suddenly break out of the lush, cool bush and are quite contrastingly confronted with old shipping and fishing wharves.

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Kawatiri River Trail

There is an aged wooden platform here that gives great views (looking directly downstream) of the old wooden piles and beams that no doubt used to support a thriving, hustling and bustling industry. There is some awesome character in the grain and texture of the old timber and really cool red colours in the rusty nails and bolts that would make fantastic subjects for photography.

Just around the corner is the Westport Railway Society building with several old coal carriages parked up on the grass that are also very photogenic.

From here, you need to head across the railway lines to Palmerston Street (the main shopping street of Westport) and carry on north.

Westport is a classic ‘one-street’ town with the retail and business stores all on the one road. If you happen to be walking the trail there is ample opportunity for some gentle window shopping and for exploring the shops.

Further on, at the northern end of Palmerston Street, lie the current shipping wharves. Cresting a raised stopbank overlooking the moored fishing fleet, you can look across the harbour and see the first of several boardwalks spanning the tidal and estuarine areas of the northern part of the trail. Once again it is worth stopping at this wharf, this time to admire the array of interesting and funky-looking fishing boats.

At this point you have just completed 2.5km. The next 4–5km of trail was my favourite section. From here on there is the possibility of seeing a wide variety of bird life. Crossing the very first boardwalk (Floating Basin boardwalk) I could see a couple of white-faced herons feeding along the edges of the mud flats (it was low-ish tide) as well as several shags perched on driftwood logs, soaring seagulls on the lookout for an easy meal and a few grey ducks in the channels.

The boardwalks are solidly built with high hand railings making them safe for children and toddlers.

Coming off the Floating Basin boardwalk the track enters into more native bush and scrublands. Fifty metres or so inside the bush the trail gives you an option of going left or right. The two tracks do meet up later on, as basically they both skirt a large tidal lagoon quaintly called the ‘Lost Lagoon’. The left-hand track runs alongside the Buller River with the lagoon on your right whereas the right-hand option has the

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2 lagoon on your left. The latter choice has much better and unobstructed views of the lagoon, mud flats and reed beds for the opportunity of seeing bird life. If you enjoy being beside the river, take the left track.

Being a keen wildlife photographer, I stopped at this lagoon for quite a while and put my binoculars to good use. Apart from the usual common tidal species of birds such as seagulls, shags, swans, ducks, terns, herons, etc. there have also been reported sightings of the rare marsh crake. These tiny little birds of the rail family look very similar to a weka but are only about half the size of a blackbird. Tiny, rare, shy, secretive and rather elusive, they are not often seen yet are still able to live in relatively close proximity to human settlement. Keep a lookout on the edge of the reeds and rushes where the vegetation meets the water’s edge.

Another ‘birdy’ point of interest to make here is that I saw weka several times along the course of the trail. One was seen foraging around the railway yards literally one block away from the main shopping street.

After exploring the Lost Lagoon and travelling further north along the trail, you eventually break out onto Shingles Beach, a small sand beach on the Buller River. The beach is made up of fine white sand and is relatively sheltered from the notorious south-west wind by a small man-made breakwater.

A short distance from Shingles Beach the trail jumps up onto the northern Buller River breakwater that stretches a full kilometre right to the mouth of the Buller River itself. The entire length is tar sealed. From the end of this section you have great views looking south to Cape Foulwind and north along vast, driftwood-strewn beaches.

At this point in your day you have a few options to complete the journey.

You could do what I did and cycle from the breakwater to Beach Drive

and Kawatiri Beach Reserve via the purpose-built single-track mountain-bike trail that runs parallel to the main beach through coastal scrub. No hills – just a really smooth, flowing single track with cool sweeping berms and corners. This track is designed as a one-way track so you have no worries about running into other bikers coming from the other direction. The as-the-crow-flies distance from the breakwater to the end of Beach Drive is about 1.3km, but the nature of the winding bike trails means that actual riding distance is greater.

A second option is to simply return along the trail the way you have come. This gives you the chance to see the other side of the Lost Lagoon if you hadn’t already done the loop around it on your way past the first time.

Yet another way to return to your vehicle is to hook onto Craddock Drive (from the start of the breakwater) and travel along sealed roads back into and through town. There are several cafés and tearooms in the main street if you’re feeling hungry, thirsty, and I discovered the best coffee in town is at Whanake gallery and coffee shop at the southern end of town. Not only great coffee, but the gallery of photographic artworks featuring local New Zealand birds and landscapes is well worth viewing.

Times and distances of this lovely river-and-beach trail vary according to whether you are biking or walking. The varied options and choices of where you go and what you do also determine how long your trip will take.

For walkers wanting to do the whole trail and explore all the different track options and what they provide, I would allow most of the day … which would include lunch in town.

For bikers wanting a quicker day but still wanting to explore everything the trail has to offer, a half day would do the trick easily.

This story featured in NZToday issue 78.

Kawatiri River Trail at a Glance The Kawatiri River Trail starts under the Buller River bridge as you drive into town, on the east side of the river Grade: easy Time: couple of hours to all day depending on trail options and how much you explore Distance: 9km return

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Birdlife of note to see Tidal areas: marsh crake, black swan, paradise shelduck, cormorants (shags), gulls and terns, grey and mallard ducks, white heron, royal spoonbill, pied stilt Bush areas: weka, tūī, bellbird, grey warbler, wood pigeon, fantail, silvereye, tomtit Tips • take a camera and binoculars to spot birdlife • pack a wind jacket in case of strong coastal winds • try the single-track mountain-bike trails at North Beach – they are fun!

• check out the Whanake photographic gallery

1. The Lost Lagoon 2. The first 1km of trail passes through lush, native bush

3. The Westport Railway Society’s

building and display of old carriages

4. Between September 1st and

November 14th whitebaiters are a common sight along the river’s edge 5. Derelict fishing and shipping wharves can be seen early on in the trail 6.The very shy and secretive marsh crake (half the size of a blackbird) has been sighted in the Lost Lagoon – keep a lookout on the edges of the reeds

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Paparoa Track, Pike 29 Memorial Track

Aligned for Greatness Gary gets involved in charting a track through the Paparoa Ranges for the first Great Walk to be built in over 30 years Story + Photos Gary Patterson or as credited

Mahinapua Creek is cycling solitude (Credit: Jason Blair)

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new Great Walk that’s also rideable year-round; now there’s a proposition that grabbed my attention! In 2015 the Department of Conservation (DOC) announced plans for a new Great Walk that was also going to be a mountain-bike trail. DOC was looking at pulling together a new generation of trail surveyors to determine the alignment of the proposed trail. It would be the first Great Walk track to be built in over 30 years, and when they approached me I was immediately keen to be involved. For me, finding the best line in the South Island’s Paparoa Ranges would be a dream. Who wouldn’t want to camp for 10 weeks in the hills, scramble along ridgelines and do battle with unforgiving vegetation, all in the name of ensuring a trail is suitable for both walkers and wheelers for generations to come? The thought of route-finding for such an iconic track set my mind abuzz.

Late February 2016 saw me aboard a helicopter flying up to the tops to start the first day of the survey corridor project for the Department’s 10th Great Walk. Conservation ranger Dave became my pal in the hills on most of the numerous survey trips over the following months, while another unseen survey party worked towards us from the Punakaiki end. Dave and I began on the Moonlight Tops with the luxurious bonus of a backcountry hut to accommodate us for the first week, before slumming into tents as we progressed further into the wilderness.

Our task was clear: to take the rough line described by DOC on a map and translate that into a physical survey line suitable for cyclists on the ground. A track for trampers could include steps and steep inclines; however, the Department’s first multi-purpose build also had to be cycle-friendly. The trail prescription not only has to adhere to the Great Walk specifications but also to advanced mountain grades of generally less than 6.5 degrees gradient (1:10).

In addition to our background experience, we also had some handy tools to assist us such as paper maps, GPS units and shiny silver clinometers. My Swedish silver bling was the size of a matchbox, with a hole to look through with one eye in order to read the gradient on the rolling gauge while the other eye looked into the distance to where a trail might pass. This little metal tool and our GPSs were essential for determining where we were and assessing new trail possibilities. Over the next few months my clinometer would hang around my neck on a string like some sort of hippy medallion – a modern aid to make the grade.

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1. Walking along the tops of the Pike escarpment 2. GPS recordings are vital to take field data back to the office Special Edition 2019

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4 Our first week was a challenge. We had heard about the clag that gathers on the Paparoa tops, and in this first week it enveloped us like a heavy, dank cloak. We set off from the hut in our wet-weather gear on our first steps of discovery. Diligently working on the ridgeline and off both sides of the range, we systematically explored rocky outcrops, tarns and hummocks.

The first half of the day is spent in exploring mode, our attention as focused as a landscape artist’s practised eye when visualising features that will later be painted onto canvas. We soon settle into a process where we surveyed about a kilometre of a potential route to reach a location, often a low saddle, where any trail options naturally converged. When

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5 we conclude that this section of track would be possible, we discussed the best alignment in order to offer the greatest visitor experience. A survey companion is essential for this task, collaborating and debating results in the best outcomes; Dave and I debated the route options in the swirling cloud.

7 For the second half of the day our clinometers are swung into action. I peer through the device with one eye while the other focuses on my mate who stands still and straight as a surveyor’s prism pole. When the gradient is suitable, the GPS track is logged. Finally we pull out the fluorescent blue marking tape from our backpacks and retrace our line using the clinometers. The tussocks and herb fields slow our markup as they resist our blue tape knots delineating the alignment. These first-day tasks became our routine for the months ahead.

Grim weather hangs round for the whole first week. How are we supposed to survey an alignment when our vision is hampered by 8 cloud? Every few hours the cotton-wool clag would stretch open, offering scant moments to view the landscape before closing to whiteout conditions. Like clumsy clowns in oversized boots and rainwear we stumble over the uneven terrain to see through the gaps in the cloud and survey our surrounds. This circus act would sometimes result in a trip and a nosedive into the vegetation, so how we manage to find our lost GPS unit in the thick clumps of tussock is still a mystery to me.

The first week seeps into a second where we tent on the tops. We start with clear weather and quickly attach our blue markers creating an imaginary track that leads to the proposed site for the Moonlight Tops Hut. The view from the hut site will be impressive. To arrive at the hut in the evening and watch the sunset colours cast shadows into the craggy voids of the massive Pike escarpment would be

heavenly. Tonight, however, the heavens open above our tents and pour beyond all imagination – there’s little sleep to be had in such a violent storm, and in the morning it’s still raging. Reluctantly we emerge, fuel up and head out for another day in the field. This is our toughest day yet. Exposed on the tops as we are, the weather flails us with its worst. Our quality rainwear finally succumbs, the clinometers fog up, bluffs block our way. The risk of exposure during such violent weather is an ever-present danger. We shiver back to camp and take shelter in our sodden, wind-beaten tents.

3. Using the clinometer to make the grade 4. How can one survey when vision is hampered by cloud?

5. Marking up with flagging tape of where the trail will pass 6. The Moonlight Tops in clearing clag 7. The Moonlight Tops in clearing clag 8. A happy smile as the cloud clears and the sun comes out

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Our next trip to the tops is to a nearby site in late April. Winter is nigh. Tenting, even down at treeline altitude, is bone-chillingly cold, and daylight wanes as we reach camp each night. There is little flat land here, so we camp in a bog with the damp air seeping into our bones.

One night a morepork sits in a tree above camp and watches over us; noises in the undergrowth signal a prowling weka which does a circuit of our camp before vanishing back into the undergrowth. Don’t think he stole anything. We hear kiwi calls too but are not graced by their presence. Unlike summer, the evenings offer little enticement for outside socialising. We soon learn that the longer we are out, the longer it takes to get warm and fall asleep. Tiredness comes quickly, and it’s early to bed

with a quick review of the maps before drifting off. Come morning we navigate through the cloud forest, a canopy of stunted beech trees that are draped in dangling moss – Frodo and Bilbo could well be spotted through the clinometer eyepiece, frolicking around the next bend of our survey line. After several days the cloud forest relents and we reach the open junction of the Paparoa Range and the Pike spur.

The Pike catchment is known by most of us for the tragic underground events of 2010. We spend a couple of weeks in the catchment. Our base is the former office of the Pike River Mine. Here in the evenings, we each take a room in the empty offices, a warm place near the chilling events that occurred a few hundred metres away. One morning as we head out,

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we pass the tagboard with the names and pictures of the 29 coal miners who lost their lives. Sad. I will never forget the board, and how the dangling tags fluttered in the wind. The 11-kilometre side trail that we work on will become the Pike29 Memorial Track, a way to remember these men who did not come home that sorrowful and fateful day. For the next fortnight our task is to survey the line connecting the memorial track with the main ridgeline.

Our final trip sees us return to the main ridge and head to the Pike escarpment. Here we encounter subalpine monkey scrub – tough, near-impenetrable plants that seem to eke out an existence by clustering together to resist and possibly feed on all survey parties. Here, rather than measuring clinometer gaps in tens of metres we are reduced to arm lengths.

We clamber on hands and knees, our backpacks catching in low branches … such agony in our snail pace. Our speed is reduced to less than a crawl as we make several attempts in this steep gully to work out a line, then backtrack with flagging tape and return to confirm it. Finally this survey stretch is over as we reach the saddle exhausted. As we pant and look up from checking our war wounds, we realise we are at

the gateway to the escarpment – the photographic feature that will most likely appear on future media campaigns. Wow! The following morning we are acutely aware of our responsibility to pick the perfect line. This precipice deserves respect. It is both dangerous and iconic, and vegetation takes aeons to repair from any disturbance. The easy and quickest route is on the eastern flank but it is scenically subdued. We head west where the land drops away steeply … uncertain if we, or a track, could ever get around the protruding mound. To our left, a thousand metres below is the blue hue of the Tasman Sea, while the Pike Valley off our opposite shoulder offers a faint glimpse of the mine ventilation shaft in the forest below. Here we scramble through scrub looking for a safe passage on the near-vertical mountainside. A final circuit of the mound reveals the 300-verticalmetre escarpment in all its glory. It is here the Pike Valley terminates, tectonically lifted and tilted; in doing so it reveals the layers of strata with corrugated ripples of greywacke, argillite and seams of black coal. We stand still in awe. These are the moments that stay with you, embedded deep.

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3. Ranger Dave making notes of the traverse of the range

10. Trail marking through the

canopy and under loopy cloud forest trunks 11. The goodnight morepork watching above our campsite 12. The Pike escarpment which we threaded the trail along

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The sequences of the rift are truly mesmerising, as is the abruptness of the vertical drop into the wilderness. “How epic would it be for a trail to follow this route,” we pondered, and for the next few hours we plot a course to cut along this razor edge. We stop for lunch on the drop-off – it is the end of May and we are wrapped up as tight as the contents of our plastic film-wrapped sandwiches. We munch on lunch totally mesmerised by our vista from the bluff. As we eat, two figures appear on the skyline a couple of kilometres away. Hollering like wolves across the void we cry out in celebration as our two survey parties draw closer to becoming one. Hours later, before our flight back to Greymouth, the two parties finally meet. One thoughtful member of the

survey gang brings a feast of jelly snakes and other sweet assortments to celebrate – they are devoured in moments by the four of us. The reunion too is sweet. Our success is making the unknown certain.

There is joy in the knowledge that the track will proceed and our few months of backcountry endeavours have not been in vain. We fly out together and then go our separate ways.

Some months later, after data is compiled, the trail tweaked, and a track-building contract awarded … construction begins. Over the next two years, two large new public huts are constructed, numerous mountainous guts are bridged, and the trail construction teams follow our survey lines towards the December 2019 opening. When I started

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the alignment work for the Paparoa Track, the Great Rides App was just an idea. Today the Great Rides App is a fully formed success, and I can’t wait until the end of the year to attend the official opening of the track and reunite with the survey gang again. I can’t wait to cycle the track and map it for the app and see how the trail in the canvas of my mind has been crafted through the wild landscape by the construction teams. What an experience, honour and pleasure it will be to mark up this new multi-day ride; it’s going to be great this new Great Walk-comeGreat Ride. So as the final trail surface is laid, and the hut bookings get snatched up, have you planned your trip for the opening of the 10th Great Walk track? Better get busy!

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13. The task of working out the alignment with the bluffs is challenging 14. The Tasman sea far below was never far away from our ridge 15. Celebration sweets as the surveying teams meet up on the escarpment tops 16. Waiting together for a chopper home before going our separate ways

Statistics

55–56km, (1km longer for riders – Grade 4) Official Links: www.doc.govt.nz Great Rides App: Download the app free from the App Stores

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Greymouth – Wilderness Trail

Wheeling Through The Wilderness Feeling as if he’s on New Zealand’s wild frontier, Gary tackles the West Coast Wilderness Trail Story Gary Patterson Photos Gary Patterson and as credited

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he West Coast Wilderness Trail is aptly named – in contrast to much of the country, the Coast still feels like a wild frontier with its whimsical weather, whiskery men and wildfoods festival. So when I heard about a 100+ kilometre cycle trail being built through the wilds, I was game to go offline, ride and grow some stubble along the way. I unravelled my map and plotted a course.

My wilderness trail experience started at the northern trailhead, with a brisk introduction to the local ‘barber’. He’s a particularly fearsome character and Greymouth residents tell me he cuts right to the bone!

However, this is no barber with a pair of scissors in hand but is in fact a local wind; a unique phenomenon of cool katabatic air that often flows

down the mountains and along the Grey Valley. As the flow squeezes between the narrow gap in the hills it accelerates to quite a blast. If the barber is operating, during the cooler months it’s worth warming up with a hot chocolate at a local café before setting off.

The start of the trail begins on the stopbank beside the Grey River, just above the train station, and many riders choose to take the TranzAlpine train from Christchurch to arrive at the trailhead – which would be a fine way to begin the adventure. For me, the adventure began when I powered up my three GPS units, the barber making itself known by causing my fingers to tremble on the keypads. Then I was off, warming up as I cycled past the massive dock shipping cranes towards the Special Edition 2019

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Greymouth – Wilderness Trail

1 mouth of the Grey River. The trail hugs the shoreline, meandering its way around the harbour where fishing boats shelter, before delivering me at the river mouth. Here I sight the notorious Grey Bar where the massive rolling Tasman Sea swells gather in a tumbling crescendo before spilling exhausted onto the beach. Watching those boats leave the shelter of the harbour and take on these rolling giants is both a thrilling and terrifying sight. The vantage point is a must-visit, but I don’t linger long after reading the numerous memorial plaques at the site – it is clear that not all vessels return safely over the bar with their catch.

I ride on southward beside the coastline as the trail weaves its way through the flax. To the left are the forested foothills, to my right is the roaring surf break that pounds the pebbles on the shore. Despite the surf spray mist hovering over the beach, I can see straight ahead in the distance the white peaks of our tallest mountains, some 150 kilometres away. After crossing the Taramakau River bridge, the trail leads me inland on the former alignment of a tramway and through a corridor of trees so tall my mouth drops in awe as I ride. Gobsmacked! After crossing a swinging suspension bridge I reach the village of Kumara.

Kumara is a transformed town since when I last visited. It has shaken off the image of a West Coast tumbleweed town, and is embracing its heritage through stories and the renovated buildings which brim with vitality. The grandest of the establishments is the Theatre Royal Hotel – the finest of stays and the best spot to quench your thirst at the end of this section of the trail. Tonight I elect to stay across the road in the historic undertaker’s cottage. It’s the restored former home of the local mortician who must have undertaken some challenging jobs given

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2 the terrifying mining exploits, harrowing river crossings and health epidemics of his day. As the accommodation website claims, the stay is a ‘rest in peace … in the dead centre of town’ – and rest I did; I wake refreshed and ready for my next day of wilderness riding.

Heading towards the main divide I cycle past two beautiful reservoirs with calm waters that reflect the Alps. I then come across some cyclists who have stopped for photos. They seem to beckon me over with the West Coast wave – as they swat the pestering sandflies. These foreigners are prepared with bulging panniers. I suspect their heavy load is for a multi-day journey beyond this trail. We ride together into the depths of the forest enjoying each other’s company and sharing tales of our ride so far. Like me they are loving the trail, and can’t believe how gentle, wide and smooth it is to ride. We follow the river and gradually climb to the Kawhaka Pass, more of a blip than a bump, that reaches 300 metres above the rolling swells of the Tasman Sea. From here our pace hastens as we follow the base of the hills and drop past Cowboys Paradise into the Arahura River catchment.

I farewell my riding companions who decide to linger longer at the river, and I pedal past Milltown (most riders miss it) on my way to the Coast’s second-largest lake. On my arrival at Lake Kaniere it is picture perfect. This glacier-carved hollow is filled with fresh water and today has the most incredible reflections of the podocarp forest along its shoreline. At the lake outlet the ride follows the historic Kaniere water race that was opened in the mid-1870s to provide a reliable water source for goldmining operations downstream. I can see the wooden walls of

4 the race trench, the original timber supplied from the Milltown sawmill – locally known at the time as ‘Sawdustville’. Milltown … Mill … oh, I get it!

I marvel at and relish the gentle bends of the water race, and follow its rich brown tannin-stained waters past foam floating in eddies as I ride towards the sea. At times I slow and let my eyes follow the white bubbles negotiating the bends of the water race, much as a child watches a paper boat down a swirling watercourse. I love these moments, little trail delighters. The reward of a trail experience is not necessarily located in the grandiose, but found by lapping up the multitude of minor moments that form a journey’s richness. There is synergy on this trail. Before long, like the flowing waters I’ve been following, I reach the Hokitika coastline which is known for its driftwood sculptures and wildfood festival. I could easily spend another day in ‘Hoki’ wandering around town or taking a trip out to Hokitika Gorge with Hokitika Scenic Tours, but I have to keep moving as there are trails to ride.

After a restful sleep I turn on the GPS units again

and pedal across the Hokitika River bridge, a graceful span that takes me on to my next section of this wilderness ride. When I reach the Mahinapua Creek I swap cruising on my bike for a boat ride, with the help of West Coast Scenic Waterways. Their trip takes us gently upstream around the bends of the creek which is lined with the weeping branchlets of kahikatea trees. This is nature at its best, with chattering calls of birdlife filling the air and graceful movements of waterfowl on the lake. This is a real treat and a welcome respite from the saddle. Off the boat and back cruising on my bike, I mark a waypoint upon reaching the rusting relics of the former Mananui sawmill site. This is a fascinating place to appreciate the historic context of local industry. Next I pass over a 300-metre wetland boardwalk and ride on to the alignment of the former Mananui timber tramline.

When I reach my next stop to stretch my legs I am pleased to find that tree felling had not exhausted the woods. I have arrived at the West Coast Treetop Walk, a commercial endeavour consisting of several towering platforms linked by elevated boardwalks –

1. The sweeping corners before Cowboys Paradise

2. Riding among the giants (Credit: Jason Blair)

3. A nicely framed shelter at the mouth of the Grey

4. Mahinapua Creek is cycling solitude (Credit: Jason Blair)

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5 5. Riding high on the

the best way to be at head height with the temperate rainforest giants. As if being 20 metres up in the crowns of kamahi and kahikatea trees is not sufficient I then climb to the top tower at twice the height. It’s a long way up. The lookout has views of the main divide and across the lake that I had enjoyed only a couple of hours before by boat; a green cloak of forest hid the trail. The walk is a top spot to appreciate the forest before I get grounded again and get my wheels back in motion.

I ride south where I connect onto the trail that now uses the former railway line to the township of Ross.

Greymouth floodwall (Credit: Nimmo Photography) 6. Following the waterways was a magical time 8. The easiest way to appreciate the canopy tops (Credit: West Coast Treetop Walkway)

Trail update

The trust has opened a new section of trail using the old railway timber truss bridge over the Mahinapua Creek and through an awesome section of forest before reaching the historic sawmill site. More recently the trust opened another small section of trail near Kumara that takes riders along a former gold mining water race.

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Unsurprisingly this section offers something different with straight lines that run parallel with the coast; the smooth surface is broken only by a truss bridge.

Several kilometres later, the first bend in the line marks my arrival at the outskirts of Ross, the goldmining town and the southern trailhead. Near the trail is a quirky holiday park on the beachfront; their up-cycled shipping containers are modern apartment-like pods and appear to be a perfect stay at journey’s end. As for me, my wheels make their final turns and I arrive at the Ross Information Centre and Museum beside the former open-cast-pit mine, now turned lake.

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Greymouth – Wilderness Trail

Monteith’s Brewery Finish the trail at the iconic Monteith’s Brewery, located only 800m from the TranzAlpine train station in Greymouth (and on the West Coast since 1868). Enjoy a tasting tray of their award winning beers and ciders, fill your hard working bodies with something from their inspiring menu and take a guided brewery tour to break up the day. Open daily from 11am - 9pm this famous West Coast experience is not to be missed. Free transfers can be arranged to various hotels and motels around Greymouth and to the TranzAlpine station. You can even use the guest shower before departing on your next adventure.

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As always, I saved my trip data for the app, turned off the GPS units, and reflected on my journey. The West Coast Wilderness Trail is one of the great multi-day rides in the wild frontier. It’s a delightful time away from modernity to immerse oneself in both nature and heritage.

However the trail is not about roughing it as there are plenty of ways

Statistics

136km, Easy/Intermediate (Grade 2-3) Official Links: westcoastwildernesstrail.co.nz Great Rides App: Download the app free from the App Stores

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to be treated at cafés and lodges in the townships near the trail. Few other cycle trails can boast such a genuine taste of wilderness without a punishing effort or the feeling of going without. It’s a true western gateway to easily go … wild on wheels.

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6. The historic shipping cranes are truly massive machinery marvels (Credit: Nimmo Photography) 7. Bridges big and small, historic and modern (Credit: Nimmo Photography)

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West Coast

Lake Kaniere

IDYLLIC LAKE KANIERE Walking, cycling, canoeing are just some of the activities to undertake in this gem inland from Hokitika.

Story + Photos Matt Winter

Mahinapua Creek is cycling solitude (Credit: Jason Blair)

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L

ake Kaniere has been described as one of the most beautiful lakes in New Zealand. Situated only a short 19km inland from Hokitika, the lake is surrounded on three sides by mountains that are capped in snow during winter, and provides a variety of activities including water sports, fishing, bird watching, tramping, waterfalls and beautiful scenic drives. The Lake Kaniere walkway is a trail that traverses native bush along the western shore of the lake, and can also be mountain biked by the more adventurous.

The West Coast can be reached in as little as a couple of hours from Christchurch making it an ideal destination for holiday trips. Small West Coast ‘lake towns’ and settlements are becoming increasingly popular, and people numbers swell over the summer months as holiday makers re-open their baches and dust off their boats.

One of the most popular and well-known spots is Lake Brunner and the township of Moana, inland from Greymouth. But, if you’re not too keen on busy, popular, boat-infested lakeside towns, look just a tad further south to Lake Kaniere. I see Lake Kaniere as the little brother to Lake Brunner and in my opinion, the area is even more beautiful than its ‘bigger brother’.

By road, Lake Kaniere is only 19km east from Hokitika. The lake itself is known for its placid calm waters, stunning mountain views and lush native bush which grows right down to the lake edge. There are several picnic areas, numerous short walks, longer more arduous tramps and mountain-biking tracks. The lake provides some great fishing for wily trout, recreational water sports and swimming in the many quiet bays and beaches. In Hans Bay there is a DOC campsite that contains 40 non-powered sites on a large, grassy lake-front location and is suitable for caravans and motorhomes. The campground is on an elevated area, which means that you get a great view overlooking the lake. One of the highlights for me when I stayed there a few nights in my caravan was waking up each morning to a breathtaking vista of a flat calm Lake Kaniere. As the site is on a first-come first-served basis, no bookings are required and the fees are very minimal. Flush toilets are available, as is a drinking water supply.

2 1. A picturesque ‘post card’ morning at Sunny Bight 2. Long-exposure image of Dorothy Falls 3. Kent creek where it enters Lake Kaniere – a great spot for a fish or a swim

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Lake Kaniere

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5 LAKE KANIERE WALKWAY The Lake Kaniere walkway starts at the north-western corner of the lake at the end of Sunny Bight Road. Sunny Bight itself is a picturesque bay with a small cluster of houses and a delightful picnic area.

The first few kilometres of the Lake Kaniere walkway comprises a flat and easy track that is benched, wide and obstacle free. The track literally hugs the lake edge with the many small bays and coves giving good access to look for cruising trout. I was tempted to take my fly rod with me but it would have been rather awkward considering I chose to do the track on a mountain bike. If you are a keen hiker and angler, a good option would be to take all day to do the walk, that would allow ample time to explore the lake edges for fish.

About halfway along the walk, the track does become a bit narrower with a few more exposed stones, tree roots and small water courses to cross. If you’re on ‘Shanks’ pony’ they aren’t a problem, but if you choose to do the trail on a bike the difficulty rating goes up and more care is needed. Kent Creek and Hooker Creek are two side streams that enter the lake from the steep bush-covered slopes above the track and can have a decent amount of water flowing down them after a heavy rain. In 118

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normal flows the streams can be jumped across without getting wet feet.

Near the southern end of the lake is one of the most endearingly quirky geographical names I have come across in my travels. Lawyers Delight Beach is actually not much of a beach at all but I love the name nonetheless. At the southern end of Lawyers Delight a small impassable bluff comes right down to the water’s edge. DOC have built a very cunning two-flight, wooden stairway to negotiate the tricky section, making it a piece of cake – although lugging a mountain bike up the stairs takes a lot more effort than if you were simply hiking the track.

The next one kilometre of track becomes quite steep and rugged from a mountain-biking perspective. There is a fair bit of walking the bike up this section, and although steeper than the rest of the trail, if you are walking the track it is still relatively easy. Partway up the climb there is a lookout point with great views of the lake providing a good excuse for a deserved rest. From the top of the short sharp climb it is only about 700 metres of gentle downhill and flats to Dorothy Falls Road.

The most popular option when walking or biking this track is to leave a shuttle vehicle at the end of the trail where it meets Dorothy Falls Road. However, if you’re a very keen mountain biker and looking for a longer, more challenging day, you can simply bike all the way back to the start on the gravelled Dorothy Falls Road. Whichever way you decide to do it, be sure to stop at Dorothy Falls on the way back. It is a mere 1–2 minutes walk off the road to the falls and is well worth the time.

Try setting your camera up on a tripod or handy rock and get a long exposure of a second or two for some silky smooth waterfall images.

The Lake Kaniere walkway is not the only attraction of this area. If you have more than just the one day, check out these other points of interest …

KANIERE WATER RACE WALKWAY This walk follows a historic powerstation water race that meanders through the native bush of a scenic reserve. The track starts at the Landing

on the northern edge of Lake Kaniere and finishes at Kennedy Creek on the Hokitika–Lake Kaniere road. The whole trail is approximately 10km long and takes 3–4 hours, but a popular shorter trip involves going from the Landing to Wards Road car park which only takes about an hour.

The track is also great for mountain biking and is actually part of the West Coast Wilderness Trail. Between the Landing and Ward Road it is relatively easy riding, while the remaining section is more suitable for intermediate/advanced riders.

CANOE COVE WALK Fifteen minutes of very easy walking through mature stands of rimu and kahikatea forest takes you to a sheltered sandy beach ideal for picnics and swimming. The track begins at the car park opposite the Hans Bay Road/Milltown Road intersection.

DOROTHY CREEK BEACH WALK Opposite the Dorothy Falls mentioned earlier, a short track winds its way down through native bush and ferns to the edge of Lake Kaniere.

I found some very cool ferns, funky plant roots and fungi on this wee walk which made for some neat photographs.

KAHIKATEA FOREST WALK Six hundred metres and 10 minutes is all it takes to complete this little loop nature walk. The trail follows Sunny Bight Creek through kahikatea forest, crosses over a swamp via a wooden boardwalk and ends up right where you started. A good time to do this one might be when some other unlucky people in your party are driving the shuttle vehicle to the end of the Lake Kaniere walkway.

4. The wooden stairway at Lawyers Delight Beach 5. One of the family of weka that live around the Hans Bay campsite 6. Lush bush ferns on the edge of Lake Kaniere 7. Sunny Bright Road picnic area

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6 Lake Kaniere Walk Way at a Glance

Lake Kaniere – 19km from Hokitika along Lake Kaniere road Start (or end, depending which way you go) is at the road end just past Sunny Bight picnic area Grade Walking: easy Biking: moderate to advanced Time Walking: 4 hours Biking: 2 to 4 hours Distance: 10.5km Birdlife to see: weka (a few at the camp ground), pīwakawaka - fantail, riroriro - grey warbler, korimako - bellbird, tūī, finches, miromiro - tomtit, kererū -wood pigeon Tips • Take your camera for magnificent lake reflections on a calm day • Keep your eye out for a variety of native birds, and cruising trout on the lake edges • Allow time to organise a shuttle vehicle where the track meets Dorothy Falls Road at the southern end of the lake • For a longer, more demanding day, ride back to the start via Dorothy Falls Road on the eastern side of the lake • Be sure to stop at Dorothy Falls for views of a stunning waterfall Special Edition 2019

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West Coast

Bain Bay - Lake Brunner

A SECLUDED PIECE OF PARADISE

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Matt discovers a secluded piece of paradise tucked away on the shores of Lake Brunner, the peaceful Bain Bay. Story + Photos Matt Winter

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Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

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ake Brunner has become a very popular summer destination for many Kiwis, many of whom own holiday homes on the shores of the lake. I recently discovered a secluded piece of paradise tucked away on the south-western side of the lake, away from the busy boat traffic, jet skis and water skiers. Requiring little more than a gentle 2.5-hour walk round the lakeshore, through beautiful native bush, and sidling past a bird-rich wetland, it is just the ‘cup of tea’ to settle the soul.

Moana, at the northern end of Lake Brunner, is a pretty busy place in the summer months. Holiday homes and baches abound, with many of the owners and occupants enjoying the myriad of recreational water sports on offer on the lake.

Motor boats, jet skis, water ‘biscuits’ and water skis are the toys of choice, which at times can make for a fairly chaotic sort of environment.

However, if that sort of thing is not particularly to your liking, look to the south-western side of Lake Brunner for a very pleasant and stress-free half-day outing that should recharge your batteries just nicely. The Bain Bay walking track is 7.2km (return) of very easy, flat walking that will generally only take you 2.5 hours to complete. One of the main features of this walk is the restored and maintained wetland at the beginning of the track. The destination of Bain Bay itself brings another, rather more intangible, feature – that being a wonderful feeling of seclusion and isolation, removing you from all your stresses and worries.

THE TRACK The start of the Bain Bay walking track lies at the boat launching ramp at the tiny settlement of Mitchells, opposite the Lake Brunner Lodge. The beginning of the track is signposted including a warning of possible wet feet (or worse, being impassable) if recent rains have lifted the lake level.

Your first step on the track is up onto a boardwalk that initially takes you through a kahikatea swamp with huge flax bushes hemming you in on both sides. Scattered mature kahikatea trees extend a couple of dozen metres into the air dwarfing the flax and boardwalk beneath.

3 1. One of only about 200 kōtuku (white heron) left in New Zealand – a very pleasant surprise on the Bain Bay walk 2. A view looking out over Lake Brunner taken from the wetland 3. Large kahikatea trees at the beginning of the Bain Bay walk 4. Seclusion and isolation – southern end of Bain Bay

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West Coast

Bain Bay - Lake Brunner

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5 5. Another shot of the kōtuku (white heron) 6. A fly-rod would have been handy as we

walked beside the water’s edge at Carew Bay

7. Remains of the L-shape wharf at Bain Bay 8. The boardwalk high above swampy ground in bush just prior to Bain Bay

9. Tramline and carriage ‘bits and pieces’ from the logging era can still be seen at Bain Bay

10. Paradise shelduck in Carew Bay wetland

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Five hundred or so metres and two foot bridges later, the wetland comes into view on your left. My first glimpse of the open water in the wetland revealed a lovely surprise In the form of a kōtuku (white heron) stalking stealthily amongst the weeds for small fish, frogs and aquatic insects. The current population of these iconic New Zealand birds is only about 200 individuals, so seeing this one was a real treat. During spring and summer, kōtuku congregate to breed at the Waitangiroto nature reserve near Whataroa on the West Coast, but outside those months they disperse all round the country as individuals, returning to specific locations year after year. The reason I mention this is that there is every chance you will see this very bird on your walk to Bain Bay. Kōtuku are not the only bird species that frequent the wetland of course. Paradise shelducks, and a variety of shags and wekas were also present on or around the swampy areas. In fact as soon as I arrived at the boat ramp carpark, two very friendly and curious wekas emerged from the surrounding vegetation, obviously well used to the presence of humans.

The water’s edge around Carew Bay is literally spitting distance from (and sometimes right at) your feet. Being a keen fly fisherman, my eyes were continually looking out into the shallows of the bay for feeding trout and I wasn’t disappointed! Without looking too hard at all, I saw at least a dozen 1-2kg trout cruising in one to two feet of water gulping down nymphs of some sort. If I had known about these fish I would have taken my fly rod and spent the other half of the day fishing for them. Lake Brunner has a reputation for being a very healthy brown 122

Best of South Island Walk & Cycle

trout fishery with above-average numbers for a lake of its size. Bear this in mind if you too happen to be an avid angler, and perhaps do as I should have … take the fishing rod!

As the wetland peters out, the track drops onto the sands of the lakeshore to end up at the northern end of Carew Bay where the beach sands give way to native forest. The trail maintains its low level in the bush and is very easy underfoot as it navigates around the peninsula between Carew Bay and Bain Bay. A few small muddy and wet patches in the track don’t take any of the enjoyment away from this pleasant section of the walk.

There is a variety of native birds on this section of track albeit not in huge numbers. Ngirungiru (tomtit), korimako (bellbird), kererū (wood pigeon), tūī and riroriro (grey warbler) were fairly constant companions all the way round the bush peninsula. A very gentle 1.8km of easy bush travel takes you to the southern end of Bain Bay and once again onto a soft sand beach. You also have the option to stay on the track and boardwalk which runs parallel to the shoreline just inside the bush. Either way, you’ll end up at your destination of Bain Bay and the grassy campsite, picnic tables and a toilet that exist there.

Bain Bay is steeped in the history of the logging industry that thrived there in the early 1900s. The bush country behind Bain Bay was heavily logged (mainly rimu) and the logs then carted to the bay by tramline. The logs were pushed into the lake on skids and tied to rafts then towed across the lake by barge to sawmills at Cashmere Bay. It took approximately two hours to tow 25 to 50 logs.

8 During the 1940s, near its peak, Bain Bay had five married couples and 20 single men living there. Being so isolated did not deter these hardy folk. Every Sunday the men would make the two-hour walk to the pub at Mitchells! And for the womenfolk in Bain Bay, a radio was brought in to give them at least some sort of contact with the outside world.

After spending as long as you like soaking up the history, seclusion and natural setting, it is a simple case of retracing your steps along the same track back to the start.

9 During the middle of the summer holiday season when I did the walk, there were a couple of families at Bain Bay that had arrived by boat. I would imagine that outside this period, you would probably have the whole bay to yourself. It is a very tranquil spot with no visible signs of human alteration as you gaze out onto the lake, and it’s not hard to imagine that the logging folk would have had exactly the same view 70 or 80 years ago.

This story featured in NZToday issue 80.

Bain Bay Walk at a Glance

Start of track – From Moana, head south on Lake Brunner Road for 26.2km Turn right onto Kumara Inchbonnie Road for 11.8km to Mitchells Start of track at boat ramp opposite Lake Brunner Lodge Grade: easy Time: 2.5 hours return Distance: 7.2km return Birdlife to see: kōtuku (white heron), weka, fantail grey warbler, bellbird, tūī, tomtit, wood pigeon, variety of shags, paradise shelduck

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Tips: • Take a fishing rod.

Good fishing for brown trout along lake edges.

• Carry a camera for chance of photographing friendly wekas and rare white heron, not to mention stunning scenery.

• Take note of lake level after recent rains - track may be impassable Special Edition 2019

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