NZToday - RV Lifestyle Special Edition Best North Island Walk and Cycle Trails by robyn-rnrpublishing.co

SPECIAL COLLECTORS’ EDITION NZTODAY BEST OF NORTH ISLAND WALK & CYCLE TRAILS TWIN COAST • PAIHIA • BREAM HEAD • PIHA • TE AWA • HAURAKI • PUREORA • WHAKATĀNE • MOTU • ŌPŌTIKI DUNES • GISBORNE • MOUNTAIN TO SEA • OHAKUNE • POUAKAI CROSSING • WAIKAREMOANA • NAPIER • REMUTAKA • MARTINBOROUGH • WELLINGTON

NZTODAY & RV LIFESTYLE COLLECTION

Best of No rt h I s l a nd

Walk & Cycle Trails

NORTHLAND Twin Coast trail – Bay of Islands – Bream Head AUCKLAND Hillary Trail, Piha WAIKATO Te Awa trails – Hauraki RT – Pureora Timber trail BAY OF PLENTY Whakatāne EAST CAPE Historic Motu Trail – Ōpōtiki Dunes – Gisborne CENTRAL PLATEAU Mountain to Sea – Ohakune TARANAKI Pouakai Crossing HAWKE’S BAY Waikaremoana Great Walk – Napier to Wineries trails WAIRARAPA Remutaka RT – Martinborough Wine trails WELLINGTON Upper Hutt trails

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NZTODAY & RV LIFESTYLE COLLECTION

North Island Best of

Walk & Cycle trails Motu Road Trail Photo by: Cameron MacKenzie, NZ Cycling Journal

Northland NZTODAY & RV LIFESTYLE COLLECTION

North Island Best of

Walk & Cycle trails

CONTENTS

34 42

Waikato

76 82 98

114 123

105

Hawke’s Bay

10 Northland 10 Twin Coast Trail – Gary Patterson rides the Northland trail over two days from Ōpua to historic Mangungu Mission House beside the Hokianga Harbour. NZT83 18 Bay of Islands – Sheryl Bainbridge explores the local walk and cycle ways around Paihia, Ōpua and Waitangi. RV63 24 Whangārei Heads – ancient volcanoes and deserted beaches – Jane Dove Juneau discovers the rich coastal wonder that is Bream Head and finds that it’s our version of Tahiti. NZT64

30 Auckland 30 West Coast Piha – Justine Tyerman explores Auckland’s west coast beaches, and hikes chunks of the Hillary Trail. NZT73

34 The Coromandel 34 Hauraki Rail Trail – with five sections over 173km this is one of the easiest trails in the country to cycle – Gary Patterson pedals off from Te Aroha and ends his journey with the birds at Miranda in the Firth of Thames. NZT78

42 Waikato 42 Te Awa – the Great New Zealand River Ride from Ngāruawāhia to Hamilton Gardens and Cambridge to Lake Karapiro – Gary Patterson explores the river, culture and the heartland interior. RV75 48 Pureora Timber Trail – Gary Patterson is dwarfed by giant podocarp trunks as he winds through the leaf litter on the forest floor between Pureora and Ōngarue. NZT75

55 Bay of Plenty / Eastland 55 Whakatāne – Jim Robinson shares five short family-friendly walk and cycle trails around Eastern Bay of Plenty’s Whakatāne region. RV68 60 EBOP to Eastland – the Motu Trails follow historic trails – Jim Robinson takes us on the full Motu Trails journey and shares its history. RV45 66 Ōpōtiki – part of the Motu Trails – Jim Robinson rides the ‘easy’ rated Ōpōtiki Dunes walk and cycle trail. NZT83 70 Gisborne – Tairāwhiti offers visitors a fabulous grade-one easy trail network for walkers and cyclists – Jim Robinson shows us the highlights. RV76

76 Central Plateau 76 Tongariro to Whanganui – from Tongariro National Park across the mountains and down to the sea at Whanganui – Gary Patterson rides the forested trails on this Grade 4 trail Great Ride. RV73 82 Ohakune – walks and cycle trails abound in this central-plateau playground – Jane Dove Juneau shares both a walk and cycle adventure. NZT85

90 Taranaki 90 Pouakai Crossing – Jane Dove Juneau visits Pukeiti’s new Rainforest Centre and hikes the 19-kilometre Pouakai Crossing that’s being called the country’s newest ‘great walk’. NZT78

94 Hawke’s Bay 94 Lake Waikaremoana – Jane Dove Juneau heads to Te Urewera National Park to hike the first section of the Lake Waikaremoana Great Walk trail. NZT68 98 Hawke’s Bay cycle trails – Paul Rush explores Napier and the surrounding areas by bike, enjoying the Art Deco vibe of this popular fruit and vineyard area. RV47

105 Wairarapa 105 Wairarapa wine trails – cycling around the vineyards of Martinborough, or on rural trails from Masterton to Featherston, there are many options from town to coast. NZT84 114 Remutaka Rail Trail – a two-day trip by Gary Patterson from Petone across the Remutaka ranges and around the coastline to Wellington harbour. RV74

123 Wellington 123 Hutt Valley trails – James Lamb looks at the cycle and walking trails from the Petone foreshore to the Remutaka range with city, sea, river and bush trails to explore. NZT77

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NZTODAY & RV LIFESTYLE COLLECTION

North Island Best of

Walk & Cycle trails Dear Readers

e are so pleased to bring to you this collection of shared adventures from our NZTODAY and RV Lifestyle magazines, with our writers taking us all on personal journeys down pathways and trails some of us will never tread on personally. We hope that others will be so inspired by these stories and that these trails and areas will be added to their ‘must-do’ lists. For many more these stories will bring back incredible memories – I do love it when our more mature readers write in to thank us for bringing back memories from their younger days. The bicycle is having a major resurgence worldwide. Studies from around the world are raving about the health, environmental and community benefits that come from walking and cycling specifically, facts that can’t be argued with. It is heartening on so many levels that governments both national and local, in many countries, have appropriate strategies and plans based upon the findings of these studies that reach many years into the future.

Enjoy the journeys described. Many of them are Grade 1 or 2 and are suitable for most riders; others are for the more experienced, hardy riders. It is important to understand your level of ability and match it to the trails you take on; there is a plethora of information available online and at tourism iSites and DOC offices around the country, so there are few surprises out there if you do a little research. What our writers do for you though is paint a word picture, and if you use Gary Patterson’s Great Rides App there’s some excellent video footage as well. I look forward to bringing you the next issue which will cover the Best of South Island cycle and walking trails. Some of the most stunning walks will be featured as well as some more challenging cycle trails. Be inspired and enjoy. Regards

Robyn Dallimore Editor-Publisher

NZToday merges with RV Lifestyle

ecently there have been changes within our business, one of which has been the merging of this popular NZ Today title with its sister travel title, RV Travel Lifestyle. This merger will have great benefits for you as a regular reader, with our great team of writers and our regular columnists like Keith Quinn, Peter Williams and Allan Dick, continuing to entertain you, while also taking you on a journey to the heartland of our country. There is also the added value of informative and entertaining RV Lifestyle articles, reviews of products and associated RV industry news.

This issue #87 is one of two ‘Best of ’ Special Editions we will be producing as we transition out of the retail market for NZToday magazine, #88 will be the next edition, and potentially we may produce further ‘Best of ’ editions with our road trips, we will keep readers advised. I encourage regular readers who purchase through retail outlets to try the new mixed title, I am sure you won’t be disappointed. Admittedly some of you might have no interest in the RV Lifestyle, but the publication is packed full of everything you love so far in this title so please give it a go.

Cover photos: Twin Coast Trail - The truss bridges over Orauta Stream – Ruth Lawton Photography. Bream Head – Jane Dove Juneau Photography

ISSN 1176-3051

NZTODAY is published by RnR Publishing Ltd Ph: + 64 6 306 6030 PO Box 220, 28 Oxford Street, Martinborough, 5711, New Zealand

Editor Robyn Dallimore E: robyn@nztoday.co.nz Sub edit + proofing team Thiers Halliwell, Allan Walton Advertising Enquiries Bruce Mountain E: bruce@nztoday.co.nz M: 021 657 090 Office / Subscriptions Laura Atkinson E: subs@RnRPublishing.co.nz Design + Production Cameron Leggett - camleggettphoto.com Contributors Sheryl Bainbridge, Jane Dove Juneau, James Lamb, Gary Patterson, Jim Robinson, Paul Rush, Justine Tyerman Image + Printing PMP Maxum Auckland

Bruce Mountain uses photographic equipment

Disclaimer RnR Publishing Ltd uses due care and diligence in the preparation of this magazine, but is not responsible or liable for any mistakes, misprints, omissions or typographical errors. RnR Publishing Ltd prints advertisements provided to the publisher, but gives no warranty and makes no representation to the truth, accuracy or sufficiency of any description, photograph or statement. RnR Publishing Ltd accepts no liability for any loss that may be suffered by any person who relies either wholly or in part upon any description, photograph or statement contained herein. Advertisers are advised that all advertising must conform to the ASA Codes of New Zealand Advertising; full details and codes book available from asa.co.nz. RnR Publishing Ltd reserves the right to refuse any advertisement for any reason. The views expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publisher or editor. All material gathered in creating NZTODAY magazine is copyright 2019 RnR Publishing Ltd. All rights reserved in all media. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form without the express written permission of the publisher.

Special Edition 2019

NZTODAY & RV LIFESTYLE COLLECTION

North Island Best of

Walk & Cycle trails

Throw a leg over Pedal your way to health, both physical and mental. NZToday editor Robyn looks at the New Zealand Cycle Trail, its concept, growth, development and expansion since 2009. Words Robyn Dallimore

e’re lucky in New Zealand to have 13 national parks covering around 2,000,000 hectares of land, which to paraphrase the Te Ara – the Encyclopaedia of New Zealand website, were constituted to preserve in perpetuity for the benefit and enjoyment of the public, “areas of New Zealand that contain scenery of such distinctive quality, or natural features so beautiful or unique, that their preservation is in the national interest”. The 1952 National Parks Act expanded on this ethos by defining the purpose as: “so the public may receive in full measure the inspiration, enjoyment, recreation, and other benefits that may be derived from mountains, forests, sounds, lakes, and rivers”. Our national park system was first instituted way back in 1887 by the actions of Māori chiefs of the time, as part of their wheeling and dealing with the Crown. Horonuku Te Heuheu, paramount chief of the Ngāti Tūwharetoa tribe, along with other Māori chiefs presented what we now know as the Tongariro National Park area, then defined as the land within a radius of one mile of the three volcanic peaks in the centre of the North Island – Ruapehu, Tongariro and Ngauruhoe. The gift was made on the condition that the land would be preserved as a national park; the three peaks are tapu (sacred) to the Māori people. In 1894 the government passed legislation that saw the three volcanoes and surrounding land

Laws on what is a bicycle See this info from the NZTA website which lays out the rules. Power-assisted Cycles (Declaration Not to be Motor Vehicles) Notice 2013 Pursuant to section 168A(2) of the Land Transport Act 1998, and pursuant to an authority delegated to me by the General Manager, Access & Use, of the NZ Transport Agency, I, Ian Baggott, Manager Technical Support Certification & MVR, declare power-assisted cycles (as defined below) fitted with electric auxiliary propulsion motor(s) that have a combined maximum power output not exceeding 300W not to be motor vehicles. 6

NZ Transport Agency information: nzta.govt.nz

Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

named as the Tongariro National Park, thus fulfilling that condition. That was the start. Six years later Egmont National Park followed, then in 1904 Fiordland became a national reserve, and 1928 saw Arthur’s Pass and Abel Tasman Parks established under the National Parks Act. Varying administrations ran different aspects of these parks until 1952, when existing legislation was repealed and all the parks were brought under the new National Parks Act. Today New Zealanders can be very proud of the 13 national parks around the country. Add to these the Regional Council parks and reserves, and private land that owners allow some access to, and you have a country that’s open for exploration by all means from walking, tramping and trekking, to wheels, be they two-wheeled bicycles or vehicles on our roads. As the publishers of two magazines that work hard on taking readers on journeys to all corners of our country, we’ve featured many of our most famous walking and cycling trails. I’ve followed the developments with interest since 2009 when the National Cycleway Fund was established, watching the implementation, growth and development of the New Zealand Cycle Trails. When Tourism Minister John Key announced a $50 million budget to get this project underway, he said the aim was to generate lasting economic, social and environmental benefits for New Zealand communities through the creation of a network of world-class cycling experiences. “The New Zealand Cycle Trail will take you off the beaten track where you’ll get to meet the locals and learn about New Zealand’s culture and heritage while enjoying our iconic scenery,” he said at the time. The National Cycleway was one of the ideas that came out of the government’s 2009 Employment Summit, following the global financial meltdown in 2008. The government committed $50 million to the project over a three-year period, with additional funding of $30 million coming from regional stakeholders, sponsorship, charitable trusts and grants. This funded the construction of the Great Rides, starting with the existing popular walking tracks in reserves and national parks around the country. In the 2014 Budget, a further $8 million was allocated over a four-year period to be used for improvements and safety enhancements aimed

at enhancing riders’ experience. This budget is applied for through regular funding rounds, and is specifically for the existing trails, as well as for storm damage remediation, safety enhancements, trail upgrades, connections to other trails, and general enhancements that’ll give users a better experience. In June 2015 Transport Minister Simon Bridges announced a further $333 million investment in cycleways that he said would change the face of cycling in New Zealand. The Minister announced that, on top of the 13 cycleways projects announced in January 2015, a further 41 will receive funding under the Urban Cycleways Programme. “This is the single biggest investment in cycling in New Zealand’s history,” he said. The programme is designed to pull together a range of funding sources to build the best possible cycling network to the benefit of all New Zealanders. “The government’s $100 million Urban Cycleways Fund has helped generate an overall investment of $333 million in cycling, getting world-class projects underway much sooner than may otherwise have been the case.” The May 2017 Budget saw another $25 million added to the NZ Cycle Trail funds, to ensure the New Zealand Cycle Trail – Nga Haerenga – continues to offer a world-class visitor experience. For the 2018-2021 budget a total of $390 million will be invested in cycling and walking projects, topping the previous three-years’ budget of $300 million. The additional $90 million is supported by local government co-investment to the tune of $65 million, $25 million from the Urban Cycleways Fund. The Government Policy Statement 2018 supports a 10-year plan that prioritises and supports investment in liveable cities, increasing transport options around cities with investment in walking, cycling and public transport options. This plan targets the extending of existing cycling networks, linking these to public transport hubs and developing linking tourism opportunities with Urban, Heartland and Great Rides corridors up and down the country. With bike safety programmes in schools and in communities the improvements in safety and accessibility for all is working in tandem with the drive to get communities mobile, encouraging work places to offer bike parking and potential incentives. A 2016 study indicated that 75 per cent of New Zealanders say they would ride a bike if more of the network met their needs. These new initiatives will see a push towards easing city congestion, reducing greenhouse gas emissions, improving community social and economic opportunities as well as benefiting our health. So today, we have 22 Great Rides with trails running for 2500km through our stunning countryside, and many of these rides travel through our national parks, adding another activity for visitors. Our key cities and towns have Urban Cycling Network tracks to entice their residents to travel by bicycle, plus we have Heartland Rides connecting our Great Rides, and many smaller rural villages and towns that can connect easily with our off-road experiences on the Great Rides. In October 2016, an evaluation report was released on the New Zealand Cycle Trail, and some very interesting facts and figures came out in that report, along with a range of specific recommendations to guide and assist all the parties involved. Recommendations included the need for dedicated personnel for marketing and promoting the cycle trails, involvement of local or central government in the governance and management of each trail, dedicated resources to maintain the cycle trails, and a national body to give leadership, direction, guidance and support moving forward. In brief, the evaluation report showed that 1.3 million people used the trails, about 86 per cent of these users were domestic travellers

NZ Transport Agency offers great advice on electric bikes. We quote them here along with a few personal notes. NZ Transport Agency offers great advice on electric bikes check it out, and there is a link to a Consumer survey that has been done. www.nzta. govt.nz/walking-cycling-and-public-transport/cycling/ NZ Transport Agency information: nzta.govt.nz

while 14 per cent were international travellers. The cyclists spent just over $37 million dollars regionally. A health study has shown that being a walker puts you into a healthy category, but add in cycling and your survival rate really jumps up. The report lists savings of $12 million through reduced mortality risk and cost savings from treating diseases associated with physical inactivity. Small communities too are benefiting from the cycleways through the growth of associated businesses providing food, hospitality, accommodation, bike hire and shuttle services, which was one of the objectives back in 2009. With this growth in new businesses, employment has jumped, specifically in the hospitality sector, as these healthy walkers and cyclists seem to really enjoy eating, drinking and spending money in retail stores, aside from the obvious accommodation and rental motorhomes spending. BICYCLES Hand-in-hand with the development of cycle trails has been the sale of bikes, be it road bikes, off-road or serious mountain bikes. And as we Kiwis are a very trendy lot, we’ve leapt onto the electric bike trend that has grown hugely throughout Europe in the last 10 years. We do love our bicycles – between 1900 and 1950 here in New Zealand nearly 800,000 bikes were imported or manufactured. During the late 1930s there was one bike for every six people, but alas, by the 1950s as cars became cheaper and more available, bikes were gradually relegated to back sheds. Today though, there’s such a variety of styles, shapes, heights and wheel sizes it can make your head spin. I had a great retro-style bike with hand- and back-pedal brake, and no gears – a great road cruiser but terrible for off-road. Rocky has an electric bike that goes on-road, and is okay on grade 1 trails.

Darleen from Bikes and Barbers in Newmarket, here she is setting the handlebar angle for my arms Special Edition 2019

Introduction Throw a leg over

But if we wanted to do some off-road grade two or higher trails, we would need mountain bikes with gears, great brakes (maybe disc) and possibly suspension forks. The Urban and Heartland trails can be concrete, asphalt or hard ground, and the Great Rides can be hard ground grade 1 easy tracks to grade 5 extreme off-road tracks over boulders and jumps. Getting a bicycle that will suit you and where you want to go is actually quite important. The size/height of the wheels needs to be right for your body, and the tread on the tyres needs to be appropriate for where you’ll use that bike too. And now of course, there’s the manual or electric factor as well. From my perspective as a motorhome owner and traveller, the number of 75 to 85-year-old people I meet on the road whose lives have been transformed by getting out and about on a power-assisted bike leads me to say “Go for it!” Admittedly, the price tag can make your eyes water on some models; for around $2,000 to $2,500 you can get everything you need, but if you like the real fancy carbon fibre technology, then you can blow up to $8,000 – but then road cyclists can spend thousands as well, so it really is horses for courses. My recommendation is that you pop into your local bike shop to get some advice, then try some

different height and styled bikes. Some e-bikes have an accelerator system that potentially can put them into a moped category legally with NZTA, so do check that out. The majority are power assist, so they help you as you pedal, but they also have a jump start to give you a push off at the lights. Talk about your individual use and needs and get the bike that is right for you. Go for a test ride of a couple of kilometres, including going up and down a hill or two if you can. Some shops will rent you a bike for a day or two so you can try it out. My cruiser bike is no good to me except on nice flat roads, like the ones here in Martinborough – perfect. But off-road or on a track, it’s a pedalpower nightmare. Something had to be done. I went to Bikes and Barbers of Newmarket in 2018 and got fitted for a new electric bike. I can now go off-road, up and down dale as much as I want to, with plenty of power to overtake the Rock. There’s room for a little person in a seat on the back as well as a few packages in my front basket area – I am set up and happy to hit the trails. This issue we offer some rules and regulations, and information on e-bikes. Next issue in the South Island Special Edition on walking and cycling trails we share some of the greatest trails in the country.

Definitions Cycle means: (a) A vehicle that has at least two wheels and that is designed primarily to be propelled by the muscular energy of the rider; and (b) Includes a power-assisted cycle. Power-assisted cycle means a cycle to which is attached one or more auxiliary propulsion motors that have a combined maximum power output not exceeding 300W. Definition of Electric scooters or e-scooters An electric scooter is designed in the style of a traditional push scooter, with a footboard, two or three wheels, a long steering handle and an electric auxiliary propulsion motor. In order to meet the requirements for a low-powered vehicle, the wheels must not exceed 355mm and the motor must have a maximum power output not exceeding 300W. IMPORTANT – WATTAGE The maximum possible wattage stated of the electric motor is not necessarily the same as the maximum power output of the e-scooter. The rules say 300 watts is the maximum for a rail trail, but you can buy e-bikes with 500W or more motors that are legal and classed as a power assisted bike, here is the interpretation. Maximum power output is determined by multiplying the battery voltage by the controller’s maximum amperage output. For example, a 600W motor and a 12V battery with a controller that has a maximum output of 21 amperes creates a maximum power output of 252W – so 252W is the relevant figure, even though the motor has a potential output of 600W. ED: So the 300W argument between companies and outlets selling bikes is complex, and unmeasurable in real terms for the lay person looking at a bike and its motorisation. For example the new e-bike ordered for Bruce will be 500W, but will produce less than 300W at the business end with all the factors in play, so ‘legally’ trail friendly. 8

NZ Transport Agency information: nzta.govt.nz

Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

When out and about on your e-bike Safety on the roads When riding an e-bike you’ll probably be travelling at higher speeds than a regular bike. Extra caution should be taken at higher speeds. Ensure you scan well ahead, signal your movements and keep an eye out for cars turning in and out of driveways and side roads. Be aware that at intersections drivers might not expect you to start off at speed, so it’s important to be in a prominent road position and make eye contact with drivers that may turn across your path. Power assist Because e-bikes are heavier, when taking off at an intersection or uphill, ensure that you have changed down to a low gear. Pedal assist usually kicks in on the second rotation of the pedals, so if you have it in a high/faster gear you’ll experience a surge in power and will take off quickly – make sure you allow for this. Use advanced stop boxes where possible to give you a head start. Passing cyclists You might find yourself passing other cyclists on busy routes. When passing other cyclists make sure you pass safely. Look behind you for traffic, and signal before pulling out. Allow sufficient space when passing and let the other people know you are passing by calling out, e.g. ‘on your right’ or by ringing your bell. Shared paths Shared paths are for slower more relaxed travel. On a shared path you should put your e-bike in a low power setting and cycle at a speed consistent with other users so that it does not put others at risk or make them feel uncomfortable when you pass. On the footpath the user must: • Operate the device in a careful and considerate manner • Operate the device at a speed that does not put other footpath users at risk • Give way to both pedestrians and drivers of mobility devices. Getting the most out of your battery For long distances you can extend the battery range by using lower power settings and pedalling more. From the nzta.govt.nz website NZ Transport Agency information: nzta.govt.nz

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Northland

Twin Coast Cycle Trail

Story David Cass Photos David Cass, Pou Herenga Tai Twin Coast Cycle* or as credited Ruth Lawton Photography

‘On Yer Bike’ – Northland rail trail holiday Proving that you all you need is a spot of planning beforehand, two recreational bikers explore the Twin Coast Cycle Trail or Pou Herenga Tai in Northland

Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

1 Special Edition 2019

Northland

Twin Coast Cycle Trail

2 1-previous page. The truss bridges offer elevated views over Orauta Stream. Ruth Lawton Photography 2. Countryside riding at its best. Ruth Lawton Photography 3. Pleasant woodland glade 4. Starting off again after a drink stop 5. Wairere Boulders walk

Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

e’re just recreational riders knocking on in years, using everyday bikes and no fancy equipment, so we plan our rides accordingly, with daily stage lengths of 40km or less, and a relaxed timeframe that allows rest and sightseeing time en route. We use our campervan as home base for each night. It’s a two-berth Toyota HiAce Jumbo, sleeping two comfortably, and able to carry the two bikes either on a double carrier on the tow bar, or one on the towbar and one inside the van. It’s our impression that the van handles rather better with one bike inside, rather than both on the tow bar, affecting the weight distribution. Planning the route involves working to our preferred stage length and taking account of gradients, because an overall downhill profile makes for an easier day’s ride with less strain on ageing legs! Next, we relate that to the availability of campsites, and when necessary organise shuttle back-up. We began our ride from Kawakawa as our first base. We parked in the town freedom-camping site behind the main street shops – there are toilet facilities close by, notably the famous Hundertwasser toilet block, for those who want to do their stuff in style! – and stayed there overnight on Thursday before beginning our ride on Friday morning, wondering

how the weather would treat us as it had been a cool night, and early on it was still quite chilly as the sun rose behind the trees at the back of the parking area. We started cycling from Kawakawa to Opua about 9.50am. The track was reasonably smooth most of the way, with only gentle gradients. We passed the old station at Taumarere, nicely restored and serving at present as the line-end for the Bay of Islands Vintage Railway. Just beyond the station we cycled across the Long Bridge, then the track continued on the rail bed beyond the bridge through pleasant open country. We had to push our bikes through uncompacted heavy gravel on a steep detour to bypass a short tunnel; otherwise it was a pleasant ride, continuing alongside the water till we reached Opua just before 11am, after 11km of easy riding. We set off back to Kawakawa in the afternoon, with more people on the ride at this time of day, and we noticed with interest that nearly half of the riders we met were older people rather than youngsters, perhaps attracted by this easy Grade 1 ride. We stopped from time to time to grab a few photos from some of the bridges, plus a pic or two of the lineside ‘lavatree’ on the outskirts of Kawakawa, another rather different local angle on the Kawakawa toilet theme. With some local cycling round Opua and Kawakawa itself, our total distance travelled over the day was around 31km.

3 Saturday morning saw the next leg of the ride from Kawakawa to Kaikohe, at 34km the longest single stretch we were going to attempt. I hadn’t paid quite enough attention to the gradient profile we had in our notes, so was rather taken aback by the long climb through the centre of the route. The track was level through to Moerewa, and then we took a 100m detour to view the wonderful carvings at Tūmatauenga Marae (well worth a visit) at Otiria Junction, and grab a drink break under the shade of a fine big tree in the grounds. Soon the long climb began. Low-gear work allowed us to continue upward progress, and my mind went back through the years to think about the steam trains that ran this route in the olden days. Depending on the loads, it must have been quite a task for both firemen and drivers to keep steam pressure up to surmount these long hills, probably a 1-in-40 or 1-in-50 grade for 5–6km. It must have been a welcome sight for the old-time crews, just as much as it was for us, to meet a brief downhill stretch before yet another hill. Finally the descent began, but it had been a long climb, prompting thoughts of biting the financial bullet of moving to an electric bike with pedal assist to help get up these lengthy hills. We finally wheeled into Kaikohe and checked in with our shuttle service to convey us

4 back to Kawakawa to pick up the van and grab a quick cup of tea and coffee before heading back up the road to our next overnight stop at the Cowshed campground about 3km out of Kaikohe. This is a pleasant spot with some nice level sites and a well set up kitchen/recreation room area, plus toilets and shower, and very helpful and welcoming owners. After an early start next morning, we drove into Kaikohe, parked the van, and set off on the morning run to Okaihau. A detailed look at the gradient profile didn’t look too daunting, but it too turned out to be a bit of a slog out of Kaikohe with around 4.5km of steady uphill work, but very pleasant countryside around. Once through the tunnel and into the middle of the trip, it was easier going, past open country where once there had been major sawmilling activity. We soon saw Lake Omapere on our right, and then the descent into Okaihau through a very pleasant wooded glade, then over a bridge with a ford alongside, and into the little town. It had been a very pleasant 14km ride, and after a rest, a lunch break, and chat with other senior cyclists – where the question of electric bikes to ease hill-climbing was aired again – we set off on the trip back to Kaikohe. Once again, the steady uphill work from Okaihau and on past the lake gave the legs a good workout on the

5 Special Edition 2019

Northland

Twin Coast Cycle Trail

lower gears of the bikes. Once we reached the highest point, we went through the tunnel again, but had forgotten our flashlights, though it was just OK to get through without them. The last part of the trip was mostly freewheeling down the hill back into Kaikohe, where we loaded up the bikes into our van before driving to our next overnight stop at Wairere Boulders, just the other side of Horeke. There was still enough light at the end of the day to enjoy the Wairere Boulders walk, a little-publicised but very interesting tourist attraction in its own right, with a well-signposted walking track through a spectacularly tumbled mass of huge 20–30m-high basalt boulders. Monday morning saw an early start, driving to Okaihau to start the day’s cycling through to Horeke. This time the idea was to take advantage of the gradient profile favouring an east–west direction. It more or less worked out that way, though at several points on the trip, short-distance switchbacks meant a fair amount of low-gear work was needed. Overall, this was a very pleasant ride, initially alongside the old Horeke road, then through pastureland before a precipitous (1-in-7 in some places) descent down into the Utakura valley. Warning signs suggested dismounting here, and out-of-practice riders should follow that advice though regular riders would mostly cope OK with careful use of the brakes – but skid marks in the gravel told tales of more than a few hairy moments slowing for the sharp turns. Going downhill carefully was OK, but those coming up this section are in for a hard slog. Once down in the valley, the ride is a delight, through a wide variety of scenery, riding alongside the Utakura River, in some stretches through glades of trees. The track surface needs to be watched carefully

6 though, with some roughish and narrow sections, manageable at the right speed, but on some of the steep switchbacks you need careful steering. My advice through this lovely section of the ride is to take it slowly, if your timeframe allows, as there’s so much to see and enjoy here, with an abundance of photo opportunities. Approximately halfway through there’s a pleasant picnic spot by the river with a well-situated toilet close to hand – we were attended by two very plump chickens obviously well-used to picking up left-over morsels. Once out of the valley, the ride continues mostly alongside the old Horeke road, where we found sections of coarse gravel laid too thickly, requiring hard pedalling and some careful riding to avoid big stones. The final leg of the trip takes you on a 1.25km boardwalk over the wetlands to Horeke – where you’ll find good clean toilet facilities – and on past the Horeke Tavern you cycle along a narrow road to the historic Mangungu Mission house, which marks the end of the trail.

7 6. Mangungu church, Hokianga harbour, Horeke in distance 7. Mangungu Mission House 8. The Hokianga boardwalk section is one of the longest in the country. Ruth Lawton Photography

Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

M E N T I O N N Z T O D AY A N D G E T 5 % O F F Y O U R A C C O M M O D A T I O N

Bike Hire, Shuttle Service, Tours & Motel Accommodation Where will your adventures take you? Love the outdoors & would like to be part of that. Twin Coast Adventures offers bike hire, shuttles, motel and backpackers accommodation on Northland’s beautiful Twin Coast Cycle Trail. Twin Coast Adventures are the Twin Coast Cycle Trail experts that can offer the best advice on getting the most out of your Northland Adventure. The Twin Coast Cycle Trail is 87 km long from Opua to Horeke. We are based at its midpoint in Kaikohe. You can enjoy parts of the trail or all of it over two days.

• We hire the latest model Merida mountain and electric bikes for adults and children • All safety equipment supplied • Range of accommodation options • Family friendly to ride and stay

For more information visit our website:

www.twincoastadventures.co.nz or contact us on:

+64 (0) 9 401 2743 Special Edition 2019

Northland

Twin Coast Cycle Trail

The mission is well worth a visit, with a lovely view out over the water, especially at high tide. It’s a place of peace and serenity, and nice to relax there for a few minutes to reflect on a pleasant day’s ride. This last leg of the trail is really not a rail trail at all, though it starts by the railway cutting at Okaihau and the fine bridge-cumtunnel built there in 1926, but that’s the last railway relic you see, because through to Horeke the trail just goes through pleasant countryside. With our 122km of riding over, we picked up our shuttle service to get us back to Okaihau, where we enjoyed a restorative cuppa and packed up the bikes for the drive back to Auckland. We decided to take time on the trip and drove back on SH1 through Whangarei and down to Uretiti Beach, where we stopped overnight at the excellent DOC campsite to break the journey – not too many people there on a Monday evening, so we were able to rest and relax in peace before completing our trip home the following morning.

9 Trail update

• Longbridge near Kawakawa has been re-opened so that it is now possible to cycle the entire 87km of the Pou Herenga Tai Twin Coast Cycle Trail from the east to the west coast. • Grant Harnish of Focus Paihia, project managers of the Waitangi Mountain Bike Park says that more trails have been developed – a huge amount of work has been done, and once the trees in the Waitangi National Forest have been harvested, even more trails will be installed. The bike park is extremely well used and a bike hire facility and café have been set up near the car park at the beginning of the Mountain Bile Park.

This story featured in RV Travel lifestyle issue 73.

9. Okaihau bridge-tunnel built 1926 – end of the line 1

Pou Herenga Tai twin Coast Cycle Trail Puketi Forest

BOI Airport

KOHUKOHU RAWENE

OKAIHAU

HOREKE

Waitangi Mountain Bike Park

Waitangi Treaty Grounds

WAITANGI PAIHIA

To Kaitaia

Taumarere Railway Station

MOEREWA

Hokianga Harbour

RUSSELL

OPUA

Lake Omapere

Snow’s Farm

Mangungu Mission House

Bay of Islands

KERIKERI

To Kaitaia

wairere boulders

KAIKOHE

Ngawha Springs

OTIRIA

KAWAKAWA

OPONONI

WAIMA

OMAPERE Waipoua Forest

F LEGEND Cycle trail Start/Finish point Passenger ferry

WAIMAMAKU

Vehicle ferry i-SITE Visitor centre Petrol station

Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

To Whangarei

tane .mahuta

Car park Toilets Detour 500m on road

Horeke 400m 200m 0m

Okaihau 28km

14km

Kaikohe

Kawakawa Opua 34km

11km

Adventure Puketi are Northlands dedicated guided forest walks and accommodation experts along the twin coast cycle trail. We are located 10 minutes from Okaihau, adjacent to Puketi Kauri rain forest, which is right in the middle of the trail.Staying central we are from Kerikeri 15 minutes, Paihia 30 minutes and Horeke 20 minutes.

WHAT WE DO Guided night walks Guided half day walks Guided private tours. BNB accommodation: Puketi Heights 2 Queen deluxe suites (Spa Pool available) Cyclist Rest self contained accommodation garden suite sleeps up to six.

OUR PACKAGES BIKE HIKE & STAY PACKAGE INCLUDES: Adventure Puketi Night walk Top trail Twin coast Cycle Experience, bike hire and transfers 1 nights accommodation at Puketi Heights deluxe suite.

WALK STAY PACKAGE INCLUDES:

1 or 2 nights accommodation in Puketi Heights BNB Adventure Puketi night tour

www.forestwalks.com | e: info@adventurepuketi.co.nz | m: 0274499206

ecialist along ated cycle hire and transport sp dic de d’s lan rth No is il Tra p Tro on trail connects the Bay of Island the Twin Coast Cycle Trail. The on the West Coast. the East coast to the Hokianga WHAT WE DO Transfers, cycle hire, guided tours Bike and helmet Lightweight, high quality cycles and e-bikes Children’s cycles, tag alongs and toddler seats Self-guided tour maps or local knowledgeable guides

3 TOURS ON OFFER Ride the Rail Trail

Opua to Kaikohe - 45km

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Northland

Bay of Islands

Story Sheryl Bainbridge Photos Neill Bainbridge

Biking the Bay The Bay of Islands – what a beaut place to get on yer bike

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Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

houghts of Paihia and the Bay of Islands evoke images of golden sands, swimming in and sailing on pristine blue waters, and hey, perhaps a place to party under summer night skies. And you won’t run out of things to do – most months, sometimes most weeks, and occasionally in summer most days, there’s an event of some sort or another taking place. The variety of water-based activities seems endless and includes paragliding high above the bay, jet-skiing, paddle-boarding, kayaking, boat trips, Cream Trip adventures and taking the passenger ferry across the bay to historic Russell, while increasing interest in walking and cycling has also seen those pastimes well provided for. Paihia’s annual Mother’s Day walk/run to Waitangi and back – with 6 or 8km options depending on your level of fitness – is proving increasingly popular judging by the 2,000 participants taking part in the latest event. And why not! I’ve been walking the 6km route for years and the beauty of the maritime scenery, particularly as seen from the Waitangi Treaty

grounds, is nothing short of spectacular. Also gaining in popularity is the annual Bay of Islands Walking Weekend that takes place in October. It’s based across the water in Russell and offers a number of alternatives from relatively easy local walks, to the more strenuous Cape Brett challenge, where a high level of fitness is required. For anyone staying in Paihia and wanting to go at their own pace, the 8km walk to the Waitangi Golf Club building and back is a good way to start the day. The area between the one-lane Waitangi Bridge and Paihia town is part of the Te Araroa trail that traverses the length of the country between Cape Reinga and Bluff. There’s another very picturesque walk between Paihia and nearby Opua, also part of the Te Araroa trail it starts off with tide-dependent options. If the tide’s in, you head south from Paihia over the hill along the footpath, but at low tide a much nicer alternative is the walk along Sullivan’s Beach. This secluded sandy beach is one of Paihia’s better kept secrets – it can’t be seen from the main road so it’s

1. View from the Treaty Grounds

2. Pou at the

entry to the trails

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Northland

Bay of Islands

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Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

generally not too crowded. This walk is about 4km – it’s not flat but quite comfortable for most levels of fitness. Although it can be slippery at times following rain, it’s a good walk in drier weather. After passing several small bays, including one with a motor camp and one with an historic boatyard, there’s a boardwalked section leading towards the small maritime village of Opua, where a good coffee awaits. OVER HILL AND DALE Once in Opua, there are more choices. Returning the way you came is a great way to view the scenery from another perspective, but an alternative is to hop on the car ferry across to Okiato and continue walking over hill and dale to reach Russell. Some years ago, the local Rotary club developed a walking track that can be tackled in stages or as one longer walk. Details are all online, but basically there’s a hilly section, which is quite steep, with steps in places. Then the track flattens out to more level ground and boardwalk, followed by an area of roadside walking into the village itself. Take it from me, after you’ve walked from Paihia to Opua, then over the hill from the ferry discharge point to Russell, nothing, but tastes better than an icy cold beer at the Duke of Marlborough before taking the passenger ferry back to Paihia. Opua’s also the eastern end of the Far North District’s Pou Herenga Tai Twin Coast cycleway.

At the end of the industrial area, the cycleway follows the old railway line for 7km to Taumarere near Kawakawa. There’s a long railway bridge, appropriately named Longbridge, at the end of this section of the trail. It’s been closed for quite some time while restoration upgrades are carried out, but was temporarily open during the holiday season, closing again in early February when it once again became a construction zone. Before riding off, it’s worthwhile checking its status with the Bay of Islands information centre at Paihia to see whether you can continue riding the trail from that point, or whether a return to Opua is necessary. From Kawakawa, the Bay of Islands Vintage Railway’s steam train makes several scheduled trips to Taumarere, and watching her steam into the small station is like taking a trip back in time. The Bay of Islands Vintage Railway Trust leases the rail corridor between Taumarere and Opua, and the work on Longbridge is intended to strengthen it so that it can be used again to carry trains to Opua. How railway/cycleway synergies will work are yet to be finalised, but a Railway Trust representative says the Trust is very supportive of the cycleway project, so no doubt they’ll find a way. The railway between Kawakawa and Taumarere was the first railway line to be opened in the North Island, and in 1871 became the first railway in the North Island to carry passengers. It was initially

5 3. Sign at the entry to the

Waitangi Mountain Bike Park

4. Old wharf structure at the beginning of the walkway

5. The tunnel on the cycle trail

Special Edition 2019

Northland

Bay of Islands

6 constructed as a means of carrying coal and later meat and butter from Kawakawa/Moerewa to a loading point at Taumarere, to be transported to Opua for export. THE JEWEL IN THE CROWN The small settlement of Haruru Falls is about 6km northwest of Paihia, and currently a footpath is being formed along the state highway to provide safe pedestrian access along that route. While the footpath won’t be finished until later in the year, it has already made a difference in terms of the number of users who can now take on a loop walk from Paihia to Haruru Falls before walking back along the estuary to the Waitangi National Trust grounds. The estuary walk starts from beside the falls themselves and goes along the riverbank, where there’s a small cormorant colony, through bush, then along a boardwalk over the Waitangi River

6. Longbridge on the Taumarere River – presently being re-piled to take the weight of the train 7. Steam engine Gabriel steams into the old Taumarere railway station 8. Boardwalk across the Waitangi River 9. The Watson family and others start out

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Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

with more native bush on the way to the Waitangi Treaty grounds and finally back to Paihia. If you park at Haruru Falls, the walk from there to Waitangi and back is a nice one to do on a hot day as it’s mostly through native bush, with a gentle contour that isn’t too steep. But the jewel in the crown for ‘active relaxers’ has to be the Waitangi Bike Park. Since its opening in October 2016, its level of use has already well exceeded the expectations of the project group Focus Paihia, and confirmed for the members that their confidence in the park’s attraction to tourists was not misplaced. For its size, Focus Paihia is probably the most proactive community group in the country. Its achievements, including setting up an op-shop to help fund development projects, are worthy of a separate article, but suffice to say in the meantime that the Bike Park is the most ambitious project to date, and is already looking enormously successful. From a

starting point at Bayly’s Road, just north of the Waitangi Golf Course, 14 trails cover 20km through part of the Waitangi Endowment Forest. The trails are graded from grade 2 (easy) to grade 5 (expert). And for Focus Paihia chairman Grant Harnish, this is only the beginning. “We’ve had three crews building tracks and we’ll have 40 to 50km of trails finished by the end of summer, with an end goal of 70km,” he says. “By the end of March, we’ll have spent $1.2 million, half of which has come from the Paihia community either by way of the Focus Paihia Trust or from community donations. Another $700,000 is needed to finish the project and we’re looking at ways to raise that now.” Master carver Duncan Kapa oversaw the creation of the five pou at the entrance to the trail, and these were carved by 8 inmates at Ngawha prison, who also built the fence and gate behind the pou, and did some work on the trails themselves. Grant says it has been a real community project with huge support from the community and from local iwi, councils and the Department of Conservation. He expects it will be a huge tourist attraction and will ultimately lead to more than 100 jobs in the local hospitality industry. On our recent visit, vehicles were coming and going, and cyclists either swooping in from the trail or setting off more sedately. Families, couples, groups and individuals of all ages – both local and from other areas – were all represented. Jan Saward from Kaikohe had just returned from the trail with sons Lakin and Joel Whittaker and visiting friends. Joel, just five years old, was proud that he’d only had to stop once on the 5km ride. Keen cyclists Karen and Thea Hodge live on the Kerikeri side of the forest, and were looking forward to trying the trail from the Waitangi end. Auckland visitors Grace and Jason had seen the website online and

being keen cyclists had decided to give it a go. The previous day had been Grace’s first mountain biking experience. “Apart from feeling some initial fear it was a lot of fun, so we’ve come back today,” she said. “It was 29 degrees yesterday and my legs said ‘what are you doing to me!’, so I was keen to find some cool water afterwards.” Having heard of the bike park from a colleague who was staying in the area, Ruth and Mike Watson, who hail from the North Shore, were ready to ride with 8-year-old Rebecca and Jamie, aged seven. Ruth felt that trail maps would have been useful although she agreed that the present information boards were very helpful. So, with all these regular activities, and the large number of events that are happening in the area, perhaps the Bay of Islands is a place to add to the bucket list.

9 Special Edition 2019

Northland

Whangarei - Bream Head

ANCIENT VOLCANOES AND DESERTED BEACHES Jane Dove Juneau discovers the rich, coastal wonder that is Bream Head and finds that it’s our version of Tahiti.

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Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

Story + Photos Jane Dove Juneau

e sit silently in a circle in the dark under towering manuka bushes. The soft, rounded shapes of the manuka tops are silhouetted against

the inky sky. Six pairs of ears are listening for kiwi calls as they begin their night’s activity. With a quiet mind, the stillness of the bush is intense. In the distance, dogs bark as a car drives up to a farmhouse. The first high-pitched kiwi screech comes from up the valley. It is the distinct call of a male, with its ascending cry repeating 14 times. The female kiwi has a deeper, throaty cry. Another kiwi closer to us returns the call. It feels like we are eavesdropping a private conversation. As we make our way back down the winding trail by torchlight, we hear more calls. Now that we have left, the kiwi happily go about their business. The jagged, bush covered headland of Bream Head in Northland marks the entrance to Whangarei Harbour. Rugged rocky outcrops rise out of the bush, and are the remains an ancient volcano. Mt Manaia is the remnant of a large stratovolcano, which was likely twice as high as it is now. The Bream Head Scenic Reserve contains unique archaeological, historical and landscape features. It is one of New Zealand’s premier coastal forest reserves and is refuge for a diverse range of species including kiwi, kukupā (wood pigeon), threatened invertebrates, bats,

skinks, geckos and several bird species from offshore islands like kākā, kākāriki (red-crowned parakeet) and bellbird. I am one of a rowdy but energetic bunch of women from Taranaki who are at Bream Head to walk. Our home for the next three nights is at the Bream Head Coast Walks Lodge on the 80-acre property of Claire and Mark Pearson. The outdoor bath soon has bubbles overflowing and a blonde head with a glass of champagne. The wine flows as the girls relax after the day’s drive. The dinner of slow cooked Moroccan lamb with apricot, couscous and garden vegetables is excellent. The morning sun streams through the east-facing windows of the lodge, a welcome sight for our planned walk along Ocean Beach. We discuss the day’s walk over a healthy breakfast of free-range eggs, fruit, cereal and yogurt. With our lunches packed we gather for a photo session before heading out on the walk. The unguided walk heads down the road, through a farm, over a few stiles and across sand dunes down to Ocean Beach. We walk down to the far end of the deserted white sand beach. The only person we see is a man carrying a large pack.  I find out later he is doing the 3,000-kilometre Te Araroa New Zealand walking trail. The continuous trail from Cape Reinga to Bluff follows Ocean Beach to Bream Head/Te Whara summit and along the ridgeline to Urquharts Bay – our walk for tomorrow.

1. Volcanic plugs formed when vents of volcanoes filled slowly with cooling magma 2. Ocean Beach is on the Te Araroa walking trail.

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Northland

Whangarei - Bream Head

3. The walk down through farmland, with views of Mt Manaia

4. The peaceful, rural outlook at the Coast Walks lodge

5. The walk down to Ocean Beach goes through farmland

6. Claire takes a photo of us for her photo album

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Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

We wander back to the southern end of Ocean Beach, straggling along the beach in groups, enjoying the solitude and being away from work. A couple of the girls have a swim, but I’m happy to relax on the grass and wait for our ride back to the lodge. Claire prepares the meals ahead of time and leaves the lodge guests to cook or heat the food. We fire up the barbeque to cook the rump roast with mustard rub. This was served with lentil koftas, three salads, and roasted pears with yogurt, cream or ice cream for dessert. After a few glasses of wine the level of chatter from 11 women is enough to scare the resident kiwi (blokes included).

Māori occupied Te Whara or Bream Head for more than 500 years before European settlers arrived from the Scottish Highlands in the 1850s. The early pioneers milled more than three million feet of kauri logs on the ocean side of Mt Manaia. A naval radar station was built above Ocean Beach during WWII along with a gun emplacement at Home Point as a defence against invasion. To help restore and protect this special area, the Bream Head Conservation Trust was formed in 2002. The trust is a partnership between lwi, the community, the Whangarei District Council and the Department of Conservation. Sir Paul Reeves has succeeded Sir Edmond Hillary, the founding patron of the trust. The community is passionate about protecting kiwi and preserving the Bream Head and Mt Manaia conservation areas. At Bream Head, volunteers are involved in laying bait lines and traps to help eradicate pests, and have worked on eliminating goats. The trust works together with DOC on planting projects to help revegetate areas that have been cleared and control invasive weeds. The reserve now has a ranger, in part due to support by New Zealand Refining Company which runs the Marsden Point Oil Refinery across the harbour. An education package has been introduced for schools to bring Bream Head into the classroom with an environmental link that also includes Te Reo Māori. The second morning Claire briefs us on the day’s walk options before we set off up the track from Ocean Beach. The views are spectacular as we go up the ridge towards the Bream Head/Te Whara summit. We can see north along Ocean Beach towards Tutakaka and south to the Hen and Chicken Islands. The remains

of the WWII radar station command a spectacular view. It was part of a network of 40 radar stations around New Zealand in the early 1940s set up in response to the threat of a Japanese invasion. At the top of the ridge we scramble up to a viewpoint. Perched somewhat precariously on a small nob, I have a view down to the ocean and across to one of the rocky outcrops sticking up out of the bush. These volcanic plugs formed when vents of volcanoes filled slowly with cooling magma, and they protrude like necks. I walk along a narrow section of the track to a rock face that plunges a long way to the bush below. You wouldn’t want to miss a step here. We head off along the trail that meanders up and down the ridge, with many steep steps. A path leads down to Peach Cove, another option for a day hike. We continue on through the coastal rainforest towards Urquharts Bay. As we descend one of the many steep staircases, one of our team clambers over a rotten log that has fallen on the stairs. The log collapses as she steps over it and she tumbles down the hill with the log. She was bruised and shaken, but determined to finish the walk. After many thousands of steps, or so it seems, we are on the final descent down to Smugglers Bay. Hot and tired after the walk, we take a short detour down to Smugglers Bay for a swim. This secluded bay is the perfect place to cool off. To be honest we don’t care what the fishermen in the bay think as we throw off our clothes and dive into the sparkling blue sea. Skinny dip might not be quite the right term for us – but must have lost a few pounds on the walk. Claire arrives to pick us up at Urquharts Bay with a box of ice blocks. What a great idea. Mine melts in my mouth. On the drive back to the lodge, Claire explains how she went from teaching to running her own business. “I was inspired by the Tora Walk, but I couldn’t find three people to come in with me,” she says. So she decided to run the Coastal Walks by herself without partners, which works with the day-walk options that leave close to the lodge. The walks are unguided, and apart from the farm section of day one, they are open to everyone. Claire is an active member of the Bream Head Conservation Trust.

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Northland

Whangarei - Bream Head

7. Shade is not only popular with sheep

8. We drop down

a steep sand dune onto the southern end of the beach

The kiwi population has increased considerably since the trust was formed. “People report seeing kiwis on the road, and in their backyard eating cat food,” she said. The kiwi population varies depending on whom you talk to. It has gone from 80 North Island brown kiwi in 2001, to several hundred. On our final walk up Mt Manaia (403 metres), we were joined by Adrian Smith the Principal of One Tree Point School at Marsden Point. Adrian travels across the harbour to Marsden Point to work each day in his runabout. His wife Henriette is a language

teacher. Adrian like many locals has helped lay bait lines and speaks of how successful the kiwi protection programme is. It takes a community to raise kiwi. The track up Mt Manaia is well maintained. Adrian names native trees and plants as we hike. The forest is taller compared to the Bream Head hike with tall kauri, nīkau and tree ferns.  Several people pass us jogging down the track. It seems a morning jog up Mt Manaia is part of the training regime for the local fitness freaks. The 3½-kilometre round trip takes about an hour and a half to walk. The 360 degree view from the top is spectacular and well worth the effort. This is my second visit to Whangarei Heads in a year. The first was a day trip out to the stunning Ocean Beach on a crystal clear offshore day in January. The colours were vibrant, the deep blue ocean contrasting with the green hillside of the bluff at Bream Head. I walked over to Smugglers Cove, whetting my appetite to return on this trip. The drive out to the Heads from Whangarei wanders out around scenic bays before reaching the dramatic jagged skyline at Bream Head. The volcanic shapes of the mountains remind me of Moorea, in Tahiti, and even the forest is similar. But it’s easier and less expensive to travel to than Moorea. Bream Head is well worth exploring for several days. This story featured in NZToday issue 64.

Enjoy spectacular walks all year round in subtropical

WHANGĀREI

Discover waterfalls in native forests, stroll on superb white sandy beaches and hike tracks with breathtaking coastal panoramas. Meander along boardwalks through pristine mangrove forests and stand beneath the largest kauri tree on the East Coast, maybe even hear a kiwi calling in the wild.

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Otuihau – Whangarei Falls

Learn more at WhangareiNZ.com WhangareiLoveItHere Whangarei.NZ

AH Reed Memorial Park Moureeces Bay, Whananaki

Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

8 Special Edition 2019

Auckland

West Coast - Piha

Story + Photos Justine Tyerman

IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF A LEGEND Justine Tyerman explores Auckland’s west coast beaches, and hikes chunks of the Hillary Trail, named in honour of Sir Edmund Hillary who came to the rugged Waitakere Ranges to prepare for his famous expeditions

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Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

uckland’s wild west coast is just a stone’s throw from the city, but once you emerge from the dark bush canopy of the Waitakere Ranges, you feel as though you’re on another planet. For a family of East Coasters accustomed to the Pacific Ocean and the golden sands of Gisborne, the land and seascape took us by surprise. We walked along vast empty expanses of sand the colour of black pearls; skirted cliff edges so high they gave me vertigo; scaled steep, gnarly, ankle-breaking tracks to spectacular lookouts over the Tasman Sea; wandered through cool, lush, tropical palm forests; climbed to the top of wispy waterfalls and watched dazzling west coast sunsets. The occasion was our annual family get-together, a time when our daughters fly in from faraway places to reconnect as a family. Accommodation was scarce over Auckland Anniversary Weekend, but thanks to my membership of the international home swap club, Love Home Swap, we were lucky to find a primo place in a perfect location, perched on the ridge between Piha and Karekare beaches. I joined Love Home Swap in 2013, and Dave and Emma’s stunning house is one of many fabulous private homes we’ve stayed at all around the world – free. Our ‘stays’ are managed by an exchange of points, a form of currency, rather than an actual home swap, although that’s always an option. It often does not suit members to swap simultaneously so the points system provides the flexibility and freedom to stay wherever and whenever you choose. We arrived at the house in the pitch dark after negotiating our way from Auckland city along a narrow, serpentine road, so our first day was a voyage of discovery. We ventured down the steep windy road and came to an abrupt halt when we first glimpsed the iconic Lion Rock, crouching majestically with surf swirling around his front paws. Apparently, he’s lost some of his lion-esque facial features in a recent rock fall, but he still looked astonishingly like the largest of the feline whanau to me. After crossing the famous black sand beach where a surfing coach was tutoring a group of eager young novices, we climbed up the lion’s hindquarters to a pou (Māori carving) depicting Ngati Tangiaro Taua, a Te Kawerau a Maki ancestress who loved this spot. The information board told us that Lion Rock was known to early Māori as Te Piha, named after the wave patterns created by the rock which resemble the bow wave of a waka (canoe). Te Kawerau a Maki people lived on the rock during their fishing seasons, and the summit of the rock was the tihi or last line of defence when under attack from other tribes. It would’ve been a formidable task to penetrate the terraces and pits at the top, with sheer drops to the rocks and waves below. The walking track is barricaded half way up because of unstable rock, but we saw a few foolhardy hikers who ignored the warnings and continued to the summit. I always think of the emergency services that are often called out to rescue people like these who take such risks. I was tempted to yell out to them, but they were out of earshot by the time I noticed them. From our lofty vantage point on the lion’s back, we could view the whole expanse of the beach in both directions from Taitomo Island (sometimes called Camel Rock or Rabbit Island) to Te Waha Point, with breakers thundering in relentlessly from the Tasman Sea. In the distance, the would-be surfers were heading out into the waves for their first practical lesson. Learning to surf at Piha would be a bit like learning mountaineering on Mt Everest I thought, as I watched the youngsters being tossed off their boards time and again. Having heard about the beauty of the Kitekite Falls, we headed up Glen Esk Road to the start of the one-hour return walking track, part of the 76km Hillary Trail that runs from the Arataki Visitor Centre in the Waitakere Ranges to Muriwai Beach. The trail is named in honour of Sir Edmund Hillary who came to the rugged Waitakere Ranges as part of his preparations for his famous expeditions.

We were stopped by Murray, a representative of the Auckland Council who was manning a boot-cleaning checkpoint to halt the spread of kauri dieback (Phytophthora taxon Agathis, or simply PTA), a disease threatening the survival of kauri trees in many parts of New Zealand. We conscientiously scrubbed and disinfected our footwear, but noticed a number of dogs trotting merrily through the checkpoint with their potentially infected paws. It would be tragic to lose the kauri in the area. The trees were decimated during the late 1800s and early 1900s – an era of intensive logging – and are now in danger again from an even more lethal threat. It was fascinating and at the same time sad to read the information boards on the track about how these giants of the forest were felled and transported to mills by tramway and waterway. The hills around Piha were virtually stripped bare before logging halted in 1926, and the area was allowed to regenerate. The walk in dappled light under shady trees to the foot of the sixtiered falls was a delight. Our youngsters, home from London and Sydney, were chortling with glee at being in the great Kiwi outdoors, drinking in the sweet bush-flavoured air and the silence, broken only by the occasional chirp of native birds and the muted sound of footfall on soft leaf litter. Some hardy souls were swimming in the chilly pool at the foot of the falls but rumours of eels dampened our enthusiasm somewhat. Spotting a figure operating a drone at the top of the falls, our daughter Bridget shot off up a steep side track to investigate. We all followed. The path emerged at a stream feeding into a series of ponds that spilled over rocks to create the falls below. The drone had long gone, but a group of teenagers were there swimming. “Refreshing! Definitely refreshing!” they said, emerging from the deepest pool, towel-less and shivering. There are notches in the rocks where a log-holding dam once stood at the top of the falls. Built in 1910, the one and only time the dam was tripped (opened), the force of the water and the height of the drop resulted in a dreadful log jam further downstream which smashed most of the logs. Dave and Emma recommended the pies at the Piha Store, so we shamelessly carb-loaded at lunchtime, justifying the treat after our slog uphill. My Mexican mince was deliciously spicy, and there was even a tasty gluten-free quiche for our daughter Sophie.

1. Lion Rock from the Tasman Lookout 2. Walking back along North Piha Beach after the Marawhara-White-Laird Thomson circuit

3. Sunset over the Tasman Sea with Taitomo

Island on the left

3 Special Edition 2019

Auckland

West Coast - Piha

Friends, also keen hikers, came to visit one day so we walked another section of the Hillary Trail, the wonderfully varied two-hour MarawharaWhite-Laird Thomson circuit. Starting and ending at North Piha Beach, the first part is a gentle stroll alongside a stream through a lush nikau palm forest followed by a steady climb to a ridge with magnificent ocean views, then down a steep slope (an access-permitted private driveway) above the tiny, picturesque Whites Beach to a breathtaking lookout at Te Waha Point. The track winds back down to the beach and ends with an amble back along the sand to the starting point. You can extend the walk by another hour by adding on the Anawhata Beach track to a lovely remote bay where Sir Edmund Hillary’s family have owned a bach for many years. Some forward planning is wise before tackling the Piha to Karekare walkway. I don’t like backtracking, especially uphill in the heat of the day, so we should have taken the locals’ advice and organised a pick-up from Karekare instead of having to retrace our steps. However, this was by far the most spectacular of our five chunks of the Hillary Trail, and is rich in Māori and European history. The track begins at the end of Log Race Road, another reminder of the kauri logging era. Logs were transported by tramway from Anawhata to Paratutai Wharf at Whatipu where they were loaded onto ships for export. Also at the start of the track is a relic of WWII, the foundations of a radar station where the skies and seas were scanned for signs of invading Japanese. Sited on Hikurangi, the highest hill in the region, the station was part of a coastal network, and a key part of New Zealand’s home defence system. The station was later used in experiments to pinpoint sources of radio emissions from space, research that laid the foundations for the modern science of radio astronomy. Information boards and audio recordings give a fascinating account of the life of the station while the book, On the Radar, written by Sandra Coney, gives the full history. We set off down the Mercer Bay Loop Track intending to complete a one-hour circuit, but the panorama was so mesmerising we continued on towards Karekare on Comans Track, ignoring the fact we would have to go back the way we came because we hadn’t pre-arranged transport to Piha. One of many highlights on the track was the Te Ahua Point Lookout. On a headland high above the Tasman, we came upon a site of deep historical significance to Te Kawerau a Maki. Gazing out to sea, there’s a striking pou of a beautiful young noble woman named Hinerangi after an honoured Turehu ancestress. Hinerangi and her husband lived

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4 happily at Karekare for many years until one day he was swept away by a wave while fishing off the rocks at Te Kawa Rimurapa in Mercer Bay. Grief-stricken, Hinerangi climbed to the top of a nearby cliff and sat there for days, scanning the turbulent seas, longing for her husband’s return. She eventually died of a broken heart and her sad face is said to be etched in the cliff face. The site is called Te Ahua o Hinerangi - the likeness of Hinerangi. Recent archaeological excavation shows the headland is one of the oldest settled areas of the Waitakere Ranges, and was a sanctuary and defensive position for Te Kawerau a Maki. The track then took us above Mercer Bay with its sphinx-like rock formations to a lookout where we could see the shimmering black sands of Karekare Beach and the vast expanse of the Whatipu Scenic Reserve. The less said the better about the return trip. We took a ‘shortcut’ up to Te Ahuahu Road that was steep and exposed to the merciless afternoon sun. Back at home, we soaked in the spa pool gazing at distant Karekare Beach, marvelling how far we had walked. The Zion Hill track was the most serious test of our mettle, not so much because of the steep climb but the hour-long trudge in soft sand at Karekare Beach before we even began the ascent. I expected to be wading in the Tasman, reliving Jane Campion’s 1993 Oscar-winning film The Piano, that made an international star of the moody beach, but the track hugs the hills and is a very long way from the sea. It has some outstanding features though, such as an old logging tramway tunnel, a boardwalk over a wetland, and sand dunes that we skied or rather surfed down. We met a number of hikers coming the other way, warning us of the gnarly up-down-up slog ahead, but like many things in life, the reality was not nearly as scary as the thought of it. The track was mainly under a tree canopy and had stunning views of Karekare and the iconic Watchman Rock. The beach has recently been voted one of the most beautiful in the world. Having tackled the most challenging tracks in the vicinity, on our last

6 Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

7 day we treated ourselves to an easy walk up to the Tasman lookout at the southern end of Piha Beach. The tide was on the turn and waves were lapping at the lion’s haunches. A second vantage point further on overlooks The Gap, Taitomo Island, the Blue Pool and a blowhole.  The sights were competing with each other, all demanding attention at once. It was hard to take it all in, and my head was on a swivel. From a distance, the Blue Pool looked like the perfect place to cool off but when we got closer, we discovered it was smothered in a mass of sea foam, like the froth on the top of a beer glass. The beach between Taitomo Island and the mainland is appropriately called Puaotetai Bay, which means ‘foam of the sea’, because large drifts of foam often accumulate there after a storm. I scrambled over the barnacled rocks at The Gap to watch the waves as they argued about whether the tide was going out or in. The resulting altercation created a furious display of turbulence with breakers colliding, catapulting walls of water high into the air. The direction of the waves was unpredictable, a minefield for a camera lens, so most of my images of this extraordinary battle of the tides are covered in sea spray. Our daughters quickly grasped the photographic potential of the rocks with the setting sun and the surf behind, so I managed to get some good shots from the beach. At the Keyhole, a deep gash in Taitomo Island, we watched as a veteran surfer studied the wave formations intently and waited for the optimum time to launch himself into the surging waters. The current swept him through the cavern and out the other side beyond the breakers, saving valuable energy for surfing rather than paddling. I marvelled at his courage and skill, and shivered at the thought of what would happen if he got the timing wrong. I had trouble dislodging myself from this enchanted place. I wanted to witness the full cycle of the spectacle at The Gap - the tide reaching its peak and the waves exploding inside the blowhole. The everchanging drama of the scene seemed to encapsulate the quintessential nature of the region – its restless, relentless energy and unpredictable, captivating,

8 confronting and unforgiving nature. As if to reinforce my ponderings, as we walked back along the beach, racing away from the waves, the sirens rang out across Piha. Lifeguards leapt into the ever-ready IRB and roared through mountainous surf, getting airborne off the waves, to rescue a swimmer in serious distress. It was a full-on emergency with an ambulance quickly on the scene and paramedics attempting to resuscitate the slight figure lying motionless on the sand. The swim-between-the-flags signs were lowered and the beach was immediately closed. There were no fatalities reported at Piha Beach on the news that night so the swimmer presumably recovered. There’s nothing peaceful and serene about the west coast. It’s not a place that soothes the troubled soul – rather it challenges the soul and over-stimulates the senses. Don’t go there for peace and quiet – go there for excitement and exhilaration.

4. Our team half way up Lion Rock,

the view behind is North Piha beach

5. Te Waha Point from the Marawhara Track

6. Karekare Beach from Coman’s Track. Photo: Auckland Council

7. Sophie and Bridget at Te Ahua Point Lookout

8. Te Ahua o Hinerangi – The Likeness of Hinerangi

9. The sphinx-like rock formations at Mercer Bay

This story featured in NZToday issue 73.

9 Special Edition 2019

The Coromandel

Hauraki Rail Trail

Story + Photos Gary Patterson

Teasing Out The Past Watch the river plunge though a mysterious passage with its mining tunnels, shanties, and gold-mining relics.

Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

arangahake Gorge is a gateway to memories of my childhood holidays, opening the door to seemingly endless days spent on the Coromandel’s white sand beaches. The long trips from the Waikato with my parents were shared with my sister who continuously teased me in the back of the family Datsun. As always on these trips the ‘cream machine’ was packed to the hilt with camping gear as it struggled along with a boat in tow. As we weaved through the gorge I would peer out; in part as a distraction from my sister’s stirring, as well as to watch the river plunge though this mysterious passage with its mining tunnels, shanties, and gold-mining relics. Sometimes we would stop in Paeroa, ‘world famous’ in NZ for its giant L&P bottle, and for those massive triple-cone ice cream scoops that would threaten to topple or melt away before we devoured them beside the river – never did see the lemons there, though. The place was a break in the journey rather than journey’s end. Over the period since the 1970s, the riches of the area have been revealed, in part due to the Hauraki Rail Trail that sits on the bones of the old railway line. My journey was twofold: to cycle the unexplored treasures of my youth and to collect yet more data for The Great Rides App. As a cartographer, my first step for such a trip is to review a map. My imagination goes wild as I plot which of the four sections to ride first and what I might see on the 126-kilometre purpose-built trail. Each section is an easy half- to full-day flat ride. The time it takes is greatly dependent on the wind direction, personal fitness, and how often one breaks from the saddle to grab a bite from the local cafés dotted along the trail. My wife and I start our ride from the south at Te Aroha (Māori for ‘place of love’). It is indeed a lovely place set below the towering peak of Mt Te Aroha (953m) with its forested walks and mountain-bike rides. On our mountain-bike ride the trail we follow is somewhat flatter, in fact dead flat. It follows the former rail line to Thames on the Hauraki Plains. Not only is this section an easy grade but it is as straight as my bike’s top tube. At times I check my GPS to ensure it is still tracking rather than drawing a straight line between the small settlements we pass. Our ride is peaceful and carefree as we travel past herds of cows grazing on the lush pastures – it’s one of those mornings where the light is right, and life is for living. Sweet! Before long we reach Paeroa, where the trail branches eastward to Waihi via the Karangahake Gorge and northward to the Firth of Thames. No monster icecreams for us as we elect to turn east.

1. Riverside bridge crossing 2. One of several beautiful crossings over the scenic Ohinemuri River

Special Edition 2019

The Coromandel

Hauraki Rail Trail

After a few pedal strokes we leave the bustling township and head for the hills. The trail snakes beside the Ohinemuri River before crossing over the highway on a former rail overpass. As a child I would wind down the window and be mystified at this bridge seemingly terminating at a rock face above the roasting Datsun. It’s a tunnel! My mind would conjure up all sorts of underground secrets that portal might hold. No longer is the tunnel locked. It is now lit, the locomotive bells replaced by cyclist bells. The glowing orange hue of ceiling lights helps us avoid others; the sound of our bike bells echoing along the walls, providing music to my ears. It is such a contrast to the slightly longer Spooner Tunnel near Nelson that I wrote about in another NZTODAY article; when I rode alone through the blackness of the Spooner Tunnel I felt I had penetrated the very bowels of the earth. Back on the Hauraki Rail Trail we emerge squinting – there is something magic about returning to the light, like awakening from a deep sleep, our eyes adjusting to see colour and warm detail. The trail continues to delight as it follows the riverbank, with a slight detour to the beautiful white veil of Owharoa Falls, past the remains of the Victoria Battery with its labyrinth of concrete foundations, and on to the Waikino railway station. The station is on a short side trail. It is an incredible setting to take a few photos and enjoy the café beside the rails. The Goldfields Railway operates from Waihi to here, and it’s a real highlight for cyclists to catch a ride to Waihi for the last few kilometres of trail as an alternative to the beautiful river section into town. Choices, choices! Riding the latest section of purpose-built trail between Kopu and Miranda, on the edge of the Firth of Thames, is another stunner. I left the car in Thames and caught a shuttle with Matthias from Jolly Bikes. As we drove across the plains we chatted and I was interested to hear his views on the trail and how it has affected his business. 7 “It is amazing how in such a short time the [Hauraki] Rail 36

Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

Trail has grown in popularity with both kiwis and international visitors. What makes the Hauraki Rail Trail special is that it’s perfectly rideable for such a broad spectrum of people of different fitness, age and experience, even if they ride in the same group. With the increase in demand, our dream to cater for much more than equipment needs has been realised. Today we offer bike hire, transport and tour booking assistance too.” After waving goodbye to Matthias, I took in my new surrounds: the carpark of the Miranda Shorebird Hide – the temporary off-road trailhead of the rail trail. In the future, a purpose-built trail will continue north to Kaiaua. However, this is a stunning spot to view the estuarine flats backed by the Coromandel Range. If you arrive two hours either side of high tide you are in for a treat, with shorebirds feeding on the mudflats. The area hosts almost half the world’s population of wrybills, incredible annual migrations of bar-tailed godwits, and other water fowl.

8 3. Thames wharf with classic and colourful boats that ply the Firth

4. Mixing with the locals in the

trailside townships. Photo Waikato Tourism 5. Waihi Station - a charming cycle and rail head 6. Relaxing riverside riding beside the Ohinemuri River 7. The mesmerising white fan of the Owharoa Falls 8. The Victoria Battery cyanide tank foundation – a labyrinth to explore 9. Revisiting my youthful wonder of the Karangahake Tunnel

9 Special Edition 2019

HAURAKI RAIL TRAIL

TAKE IT EASY...

through tunnels etched in our landscapes

thecoromandel.com

We hire

• Standard bikes - step thru and MTB style • Electric bikes - step thru and MTB style • Child rear mounted seats • Child pull along trailers • Panniers • (Helmets, pumps & locks are included in hire cost)

We offer

• High quality and well maintained bikes and equipment • Customised single or multi-day itineraries • Worry free trail assistance with on call a/h service • Secure parking at our yard in Thames • Personal shuttle and luggage transfer service • Bases in Thames and Paeroa

Stockist of e-bikes from selected Kiwi and German brands:

• Professional bicycle workshop • Parts, Accessories, Apparel.

Nevo GT Visit us at our new, spacious location 96 Richmond Street, Thames Opening hours Mon-Fri 9 to 5, Sat 9 to 2 Tours and rentals outside office hours possible.

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10. Waikino Station - a top stop for a bite and a rail journey to Waihi 11. Catching a breather near the Waikino Tavern

10 If you have a birder in your riding group it’s probably wise to allow a bit of extra time here. The short stroll over the boardwalk to the hide gave me a gentle warm-up; it’s a pleasant couple of minutes, irrespective of the tide. With the wind behind me and the sky darkening, I flicked on the GPS units and cycled my way onto a stopbank, lined on the seaward side by leafy mangroves. Before long I slowed as I passed a gumbooted couple who were feeding out to their cattle. It’s easy to strike up a conversation in the country. These hard-working folks confirmed Matthias’ experiences. From their farm gate they have seen a growing number of cyclists on the trail over the last few months. If the grazing

cattle notice the bikes they’re not saying. A little further on I pass the sleepy settlement of Waitakaruru. Here a weary (and wary) mum watches her two children catching eels from the pedestrian bridge to compete in a school competition. Although supportive, she hopes for an empty bucket as none of us (self included) wants to handle these otherworldly creatures. While chatting, the inevitable happens and the drama unfolds once the eel spits the hook on the narrow bridge! It wriggles along like the tyre tracks of a wayward rider, with little hands in pursuit. Rural living has its rewards. I wonder how the poor eel stacked up in the competition before being released again to the dark waters that are fed by internationally recognised peat bogs.

11 Special Edition 2019

The Coromandel

Hauraki Rail Trail

The remaining trail continues along floodwalls with mangroves on one side and pastures on the other, the walls vital to keep the plains dry after decades of floods that once plagued the district. Several times during my ride beside the Firth I am greeted by white-faced herons standing elegantly along the fence posts. My arrival triggers their launch into flight, and I appreciate their massive wingspan and their slow, rhythmic beating against the wind. The same headwind that gives the herons their lift, picks up and delivers rain plops on the hard shell of my helmet. I glance up to see both the Kopu Bridges come into view. Standing proudly is the modern dual-lane concrete span dressed with ancestral adornments, while the lower, derelict, rickety timber predecessor is kitted out with a redundant swing bridge and operator towers. I have mixed feelings about this new link; my childhood memories recall our heightened anticipation in the back-seat of the car as we waited in queues of traffic to cross this massive old span to our holiday getaways. Today, my adult mind reconciles the practical ease of crossing the river, while my childhood mind is still at play with the aging structure. One day the old relic may be reborn to be used as part of the cycle trail. Until then my memories are probably best left behind me. As I record the final GPS mark and turn off the units at journey’s end, I consider returning to the area to capture future extensions. The discussions I recently had with the trail manager about the ambitious

plans to continue the trail southward from Te Aroha to Matamata, excited me. Once completed, the trail will be tantalisingly close to the Karapiro trailhead of the Waikato River Trail. What an incredible off-road cycle link it will be from the outskirts of Auckland to the Great Lake – a cycle-trail-rider’s paradise, providing an alternative journey to our northern interior beyond the more common coastal holiday hotspots. There are several bike outfitters and accommodation providers, so it’s worth checking out the official trail website and the Great Rides App for more details. This story featured in NZToday issue 78.

Trail update

All going well a new trail section along the former rail corridor between Te Aroha and Matamata will be ready for this summer. The 37 kilometres of trail will pass dairy, goat and thoroughbred farms and will offer views of the nearby Wairere Falls and the Firth Tower before reaching Matamata. Also in the latter part of summer it is hoped that dedicated cycle/walking trail from Miranda will reach the settlement of Kaiaua.

More info

There are several bike outfitters and accommodation providers, so it’s worth checking out the official trail website and the Great Rides App for more details. Statistics: 125km, Easiest Grade (Grade 1) Official Links: Homepage - Facebook - Video Great Rides App: App Store or Play Store 40

Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

The Coromandel Directory listing

HAURAKI RAIL TRAIL See us for expert local knowledge

Te Aroha i-SITE Visitor Information Centre 102 Whitaker St, Te Aroha 3320 tearohanz.co.nz | 07 884 8052

Paeroa. The best motorhome friendly little town in the middle of everywhere. paeroa.org.nz/events

www.haurakiplains.co.nz

07 862 6999 or 027 605 1858

6 Victoria Street, Waihi

07 863 7111

info@goldminemotel.co.nz Quiet, off road setting. Pet Friendly by arrangement only.

www.goldminemotel.co.nz

Special Edition 2019

Waikato

Hamilton - Te Awa

Story Gary Patterson Photos Gary Patterson or as credited

Where Cycling’s Happening The beauty, culture and history of the Te Awa riverside bike trail, hugging the mighty Waikato River, wins the heart of New Zealand’s cycle trail champion

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Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

rowing up in Hamilton I cycled to school on busy roads in a time before cycleways, lanes or trails … dedicated bicycle routes were only a twinkle in the eye of the future. Spending time in the Waikato recently, I found the future is now! Cycling is booming in the heart of the Waikato. No other northern region has such a choice of official Great Rides, can claim Cycling NZ’s HQ, or has such long river-hugging rides. In the Waikato, cycling is where it’s happening and the Te Awa (The River) Trail may have helped make the region ‘Cycling Central’. Known as the Great New Zealand River Ride, the newly formed Te Awa has emerged quicker than a taniwha rising onto a riverbank. In due course, the cycle trail will not only link Ngāruawāhia to Cambridge but may meet up with the Waikato River and Hauraki Rail Trails becoming a truly glorious bicycle network. Before starting, with GPS in hand, I considered how I might ride Te Awa. The easy river ride currently consists of two sections. The northern section between Ngāruawāhia and Hamilton Gardens is 27 kilometres, while the southern section of 15 kilometres travels from just north of Cambridge to Lake Karapiro. A country-road route that currently connects the two parts will likely be an off-road section by the time I next return. I decide to ride from north to south; to Hamilton today and Karapiro tomorrow. But first I need wheels, so I visit River Riders in central Hamilton who fit me out with a sharp looking e-bike – the first time I have properly used one of these newfangled wiz-bang bikes. Help me – I’m sounding like my dad! I start my journey in Ngāruawāhia at the base of the Hakarimata Range, the junction of the Waikato and Waipa Rivers – the Waikato River’s largest tributary. Looking at the forested range across the river, I elect not to scale the 1349 steps to the lookout and instead save my energy (and e-bike battery) for the ride ahead. Studying the map and powering up the GPS unit I head off upstream beside the river. Upstream might conjure an uphill climb but I do not fret. The only gradient is that provided by the trail’s undulations as it negotiates the river terraces. The map contours show the swirling eddies of the river following the 20-metre line all the way to the base of the Karapiro Dam over 50 kilometres away. As I turn the pedals the bike eats up the trail. Fun! In the first few minutes I enjoy the elevated vantage over the river, the trail well designed to navigate the gentle bends of our longest river. Around the next bend, appearing like neon green legs of a giant grasshopper stretched across the river, is the magnificent span of the Perry Bridge. This new 130-metre long pedestrian and cycle bridge has bling. Mosaic art jewels adorn its approaches and the green deck patterns represent woven flax. While the pink path of Te Ara in urban Auckland is striking, the Perry Bridge is stunning! My cycle helmet is off to the Perry Charitable Trust that has been instrumental in the funding and management of the trail. Despite only being on the bike a few minutes I stop here to enjoy this engineering marvel. It’s the first of 12 major road/rail/foot bridges that I would cross or pass by on this trail. While I’m no night rider, this remarkable bridge is stunning at twilight with its various structural members highlighted. This is the highlight of my ride so far!

Special Edition 2019

Waikato

Hamilton - Te Awa

Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

I continue riding on the opposite bank of the river before crossing back via the Horotiu road bridge. The trail then skirts farmland and pockets of forest. I reach a trail fork and elect to make a short detour to the top of the river terrace. Here I am welcomed by the carved faces of four chiefs positioned on a large crossbeam shaped like the spar of a tall ship. The chiefs that once lived here at the historic fortified Mangaharakeke Pā site picked the perfect spot. It’s not hard to imagine how this prominent pā, coupled with defence trenches would provide ideal vantage to warring parties. The river and dendritic gullies circle and protect the site. Despite the past conflicts, today the lawn surrounded by forest is peaceful, private and protected. I take a moment to enjoy a walk around the site reading the plaques before retracing my steps back to the junction where I began this detour. As I ride, I see the urban sprawl starting to reappear. At first it’s just a scattering of lifestyle blocks on the opposite bank of the river, and then I enter the town belt which has grown since my youth – it’s had to expand a few belt notches to cope with its bulging girth. I love how the trail helps support this growth, connecting the residents with the river. I am surprised at how the landscape beside Te Awa changes every few moments and in less than an hour I ride past pastures, pockets of scrub, open city reserves and tunnels of dark forest. Then the trail narrows and is squeezed between the river and its steeply incised bank, it is dark and damp here. I curiously ride on. Just ahead I spot the familiar and graceful span of Fairfield Bridge – its three arches look much like the

rhythmic humps of a roller-coaster ride. The bridge was built in 1937 in the Waikato County outside the city. At the time, it was thought that it would seldom be used, so much so that it was periodically used by drovers to drive cattle across on the way to the Frankton saleyards. By the time of my childhood 50 years later, 40 per cent of the city residents lived north of the bridge. The vehicle congestion at the bridge at that time, was later eased after the completion and then expansion of the Pukete Bridge four kilometres downstream. Bridges are a real feature of this trail. I continue upstream, occasionally powering on the e-juice to raise me from the riverside onto the elevated terrace where the CBD lies. I note that the heart of the city is now finally starting to embrace the river; opening its doors to the view. I pass the museum and duck under the tall arch of hundred-year-old Victoria Bridge. As I ride south, I enter a park-like setting as the trail meanders through recreational reserves and over Cobham Bridge before entering the grounds of Hamilton Gardens. It is incredible how this former rubbish dump has been transformed into a landscape of creative beauty and meaning. It’s the city’s showpiece and most popular attraction. Here I stop and save my GPS data and appreciate the surroundings. There could not be a better place to end my day and to enjoy fare from the café, stroll through themed gardens or take a cruise on the Waikato River Explorer that departs from the river edge. Here too, I depart for the day, choosing to skip the local road route and bed down for the night.

1. The Perry Bridge is an

engineering marvel. Photo River Riders Ltd 2. The trail follows the gentle curves of the river 3. The trail is immersed in culture 4. The themed beauty of Hamilton Gardens 5. The graceful curves of Fairfield Bridge Special Edition 2019

Waikato

Hamilton - Te Awa

Awaking in Cambridge, the ‘town of trees’ and now of champions, I soon reach the trailhead beside the home of high-performance cyclists – the Avantidrome. Given the morning’s rain showers I take refuge and enter this flash looking velodrome. After scaling a couple of flights of steps, the building’s cavity opens up into the pumping heart of Cycling NZ. Here athletes pinned low on their bikes ride circuits that seem to defy the natural laws of friction and gravity. I am in awe of their pace and athleticism as they stick to such a steeply sided timber surface. I discover that you don’t have to be an athlete to give it a go on the track as there are public lessons during the week. One day I might return for a spin; however, the showers have eased and I make my own tracks back on Te Awa. Leaving the giant oval behind I descend to the cliff edge beside the river, the trail is now a wide concrete path that snakes its way to Cambridge. At times there are glimpses of the river, another pā site, and the lofty green limbs of the town of trees. After navigating the streets, I pop over Cambridge’s version of Victoria Bridge. This equally aged and incredibly narrow structure was designed for horse and cart. Thankfully there is a path for cyclists and pedestrians, as the vehicle lanes are barely wide enough to squeeze two small cars past with little room for wing mirrors. I leave the suburb of Leamington and am led into well-kept countryside, past the Karapiro Dam to reach Lake Karapiro – the home of Rowing NZ champions. Today the place is humming. Crews of muscular youth walk to the water’s edge with their boats perched on one shoulder, while others row on calm water in graceful pulses of effortless energy. I know they’re working hard. There is a new café on the hill which could provide a welcome break from riding and plenty of places under oak trees for a picnic lunch. I continue along the lake edge and reach the last segment

of the trail – 400 metres of timber boardwalk that mimics the gentle curves of the river bank. Here Te Awa ends but the river journey could continue 10 kilometres (via country roads) upstream if you started at the Waikato River Trails. Returning back to Karapiro Domain I save my GPS data, watch the scullers in the sun, and reflect on my experience of Te Awa – the River Ride. I found the ride was easy, enjoyable and entertaining with the various stopping points along the way. It’s exciting that soon Ngāruawāhia and Cambridge will be connected by a scenic off-road trail. It is great to see places embracing the river and rediscovering it along the trail. The ride explores the river, culture and the heartland interior. Like the waka and settler vessels that once used the waterway to access the country’s interior, Te Awa plies the river edge connecting riders and riverside communities. In the Waikato, cycling is flourishing and trails like Te Awa and Waikato River Trails are right on track leading the peloton. This story featured in RV Travel lifestyle issue 75.

Trail update

The trail trust is hoping in the next year or two to connect Hamilton Gardens with the Avantidrome just north of Cambridge. Some of this new trail will travel along the scenic river edge including bridging some gullies which will be a welcome addition. Until then, the ride is generally along quiet rural roads between these two attractions.

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65km Easy Trail (Grade 2) Official Links: te-awa.org.nz Great Rides App: Use App logo and QR Code together 46

Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

electric.revolution electric.revolution

Dan and Dynell Tairaki launched their Hamilton electric bike store in February with an event in Garden Place The Te Awa trail allows riders to travel off road all the way from (where their store is conveniently located). Dan and Dynell Tairaki launched their Hamilton electric Ngaruawahia, past the newly opened Perry Bridge, along the store with in Garden Place Peoplebike turned up in in February numbers to tryan outevent an electric bike and riverThe through the city to the Hamilton Gardens, and soon all the Te Awa trail allows riders to travel off road all the way from store conveniently located). Dynell (where says thetheir interest in is electric bikes is huge. “We’re seeing wayNgaruawahia, to Cambridge. past the newly opened Perry Bridge, along the a lot ofPeople peopleturned who may not been a bike in a long time up inhave numbers to tryonout an electric bike and thenear city to the Hamilton Gardens, and soon all the storethrough is located the trail and is part of a growing and areDynell getting one because ofbikes the advantages thatseeing Theriver saysback the on interest in electric is huge. “We’re way to Cambridge. e-bikesahave”. lot of people who may have not been on a bike in a long timenetwork of stores under the electrify.nz brand that have up across the country. board electrify. The store is located near the“We trailgot andon is part of with a growing are getting back on one because of the advantages that opened Electricand bikes are equipped with a battery and a motor that nz because a nationwide brand with a great of networkit’ ofs stores under the electrify.nz brandrange that have e-bikes have”. allows riders to pedal up hills and travel longer distances with product from international Dan and opened uptop across the country.brands,” “We gotsays on board withDynell. electrify. ease.“The other factor gettingwith people onto e-bikes is thethat Electric bikes are of equipped a battery and a motor “Electrify is alsoit’sknown for going the with extraa mile its of nz because a nationwide brand greatfor range allows riders pedal up hills and travel longer distances infrastructure that to is being developed”, says Dan, “The Te Awawith product from top international brands,” says Dan and Dynell. customers, which fitted well with our own approach”. Dan and ease.“The other factor of gettingopportunity people onto e-bikes is the River trail is an awesome recreational for both With hundreds of kilometres of trail to discover, offering riders a close-up look atensure “Electrify is also known for going the extra mile forto its Dynell say spending time with individual customers infrastructure is being developed”, sayssDan, “The Te Awa locals and tourists, it’that s really opening up the area’ potential”. the region’s picturesque scenery and fascinating past, the Mighty Waikato is the which fitted well our own Dan theycustomers, get the right bike and get with the most outapproach”. of that bike hasand River trail is an awesome recreational opportunity for both perfect place for your next cycling getaway. Dynell say spending time with individual customers to ensure been a key to their success. Dan and Dynell rentals, as well as sales their store locals andoffer tourists, it’s really opening upfrom the area’ s potential”. they get the right bike and get the most out of that bike has and Dan often accompanies test riders and renters on the Te The electrify.nz store (onthe the corner of Victoria Must do rides include the Hauraki Rail Trail, Waikato River Trails, Timber Trail St been a key toHamilton their success. Dan“They and Dynell offerback rentals, well smiles as saleson from their store Awa trail. all come withashuge their faces,” and Teaccompanies Awa—The Great NZ River Ride. and“the Dan often riders scenery and renters Te and Garden Place) offers free test rides of the Electrify product says Dan, combination of thetest stunning andon thethe The electrify.nz Hamilton store (on the corner of Victoria St Awa trail. “They all back with huge smiles on their faces,”range, which includes the best-selling Magnum brand (USA) as fun of riding an e-bike is acome winner”. Garden Place) offers free test rides of the Electrify product welland as bikes thatregion, are imported from Europe, including Gepida, For“the more information on cycle in the Waikato says Dan, combination of the stunning scenerytrails and the range, which includes the best-selling Magnum brand (USA) as Bottecchia (Italy) and Stromer (Switzerland). fun of visit: riding an e-bike is a winner”. waikatonz.com/cycling well as bikes that are imported from Europe, including Gepida, Bottecchia (Italy) and Stromer (Switzerland).

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Waikato

Pureora Timber Trail

Story + Photos Gary Patterson

A Rekindled Treasure Gary Patterson is dwarfed by giant podocarp trunks as he cycles through the leaf litter on the forest floor between Pureora and Ōngarue

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Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

ong before the cycle trail wound its way around Mt Pureora, the walking track to the summit held a warm place in my heart. On one of the first dates with my girlfriend, wearing swannies and hats against the cold, we tramped through the cloud forest and overlooked the little-known forest park. A quarter of a century later and now married to my sweetheart, we switched warm hats for helmets on a ride through memory lane. However, this trip was not just about reminiscing; our two-day journey on the now-popular Timber Trail was to be a datacollection field trip for my work on the first mobile app of our country’s greatest rides. The coldest of winds cut into us in the car park as we quickly unpacked and tested our gear. On my handlebars were three GPS units, two cameras and a smartphone, giving my bike the heavy steering of an old Bedford truck. I pondered the thoughts of other riders at the Pureora car park on viewing my setup: ‘some sort of pedalling gadget geek’ I suspect. At the first turn of our wheels we experience an incredible transition: in a snap we pass through a portal transporting us from farmland to foreign land. We’re in a rain forest. As our eyes adjust to the darkness we are greeted by a Māori statue directing us towards further trail discoveries. Dwarfed by giant podocarp trunks, we are soon crossing small streams on a trail that gently winds through the leaf litter of the forest floor. The sound of our tyres snapping small twigs is interrupted only by the chattering call of kaka overhead. It’s wonderful to see and hear the amazing birdlife – enhanced here by the predator-control programme in this portion of the park. The ancient trees we ride past are just a remnant of the vast virgin rainforest of years gone by. As I look up to watch the swooping kaka, I remember the conservation protestors perched high on tree platforms decades earlier; their action halted the advancing foresters. On a side track we see a lovingly restored old crawler tractor that once hauled timber from the forest. It’s a fascinating relic, a beast. The irony is not lost on us that what was once used to destroy forest has been recovered, just as the forest itself is recovering. Of course, the protesters have long since left, but their legacy thrives in the protected virgin forest we feel privileged to cycle through. We ride on. Smiling.

3 For the next couple of hours we climb through the cutover scrub and into the cloud forest with its contorted limbs draped in haunting hanging moss. Distant memories are revived as we pass the turnoff to the summit walking track that we had explored in our youth. Just beyond the 14-kilometre marker post my GPS reads 980 metres of altitude – we have reached the highest point on the trail! The trail then rewards us with seven glorious kilometres of descent that include glimpses of Lake Taupo’s rippling waters. Further along we sidle into a gully and encounter the largest of three suspension bridges that span ravines here. Typically I’m not a big supporter of structural intrusions in the wilderness, but this one saves several kilometres of riding, and it is a graceful inclusion. The lineal deck is strung beneath hundreds of vertical hangers suspended from the massive arc of the supporting cables that cross the valley. It is simply an engineering marvel with a backdrop of natural beauty. Crossing is a pleasure, although my approach is a little quick as I try to prevent my tyres from wobbling along the deck. I fail. The giant span comes to life, awoken by my presence, which gives my ride a rhythmic feel like a ship rolling on swells at sea.

1. Riding into the cloud forest,

its contorted branches draped in haunting moss 2. Greeted by a pouwhenua that guided us on the start of our journey 3. Reaching the top of the trail is quite a thrill – after this point there’s a long downhill 4. The majestic waterfall just a minute upstream from Blackfern Lodge (© Epic Adventures)

4 Special Edition 2019

Waikato

Pureora Timber Trail

5. Blackfern Lodge is a unique

treat tucked into the forest (© Epic Adventures) 6. The massive suspension bridges on this trail were both stunning and daunting 7. It’s worth carrying a torch for passing through the gloomy tunnel 8. Pa Harakeke is one of the first accommodation options on the trail

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Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

7 On reaching the opposite bank we hop off our saddles for a break and take time to admire a rimu with its characteristic drooping branches dressed here with pretty white clematis flowers. Near the halfway point along the trail is the side track to Blackfern Lodge, the turnoff for our overnight stay. Riding past odd assemblages displaying words of encouragement suggested that this place might be pretty quirky. Upon reaching the lodge we were warmly welcomed by Maria and Kerry who have operated this backcountry stay for the past 17 years. The lodge is absolutely authentic. It sits in a peaceful clearing surrounded by forest and a stream filled with eels and resident whio – the waterfall upstream is majestic. Maria makes the best hungryrider-filling hotpot. After a good night’s sleep Kerry offers the option of a shuttle to knock off the steepest hill before returning to the main trail – but feeling staunch we opt to bike. Back on the main trail we find ourselves in a large clearing of the former timber town of Piropiro. Little remains of the settlement except a desolate campsite at the trail’s halfway point, although, at the time of our trip, on a small rise overlooking the campsite was the framing of a new accommodation building that will increase the number of beds available for cyclists on the trail. We leave Piropiro behind and before long cross the longest suspension bridge on the trail – an incredible 141-metre span over a gully, before reaching the timber tramline terminus. This former rail line, that once 8 transported timber back to the mill,

has been revitalised as a gentle downhill ride past the former worker camps with a plethora of interpretative panels. A highlight on this section is the Ongarue Spiral, a circuit in the tramline used to ease the grade on the line, which includes massive cuttings, bridging and a really spooky tunnel. Eventually the vegetation is behind us and civilization ahead. A short ride beside farmland eases us into the little village of Ongarue – the southern trailhead. This remote outpost of changing fortunes is beginning to be restored with the influx of riders and walkers seeking a trailhead refuge. It is refreshing to see how the initiatives of the NZ Cycle Trails are helping to revitalise and provide new employment opportunities in the rural heartland.

Special Edition 2019

Waikato

Pureora Timber Trail

While awaiting our shuttle after completing the ride, we reflected on this incredible journey that had exceeded our expectations and renewed our fond memories. As this area has been in the arc of my life’s journey, I hope that the trail continues to mature and bring new life to the hinterland communities while embracing the heritage of yesteryear’s achievements. This story featured in NZToday issue 75.

Trail update

Near the half-way point of the trail at Piropiro is the new Timber Trail Lodge. This off-grid and purpose-built lodge has twenty rooms with a five star silver Qualmark standard. Also new for this summer at Piropiro is Camp Epic, a private fully serviced campground with facilities including hot showers and large canvas tents to enjoy camping in the forest surrounds and to awaken to morning birdlife.

The number one adventure ride in the North Island! Ride the heart of Purerora

For more information and the latest on the trail Head to timbertrail.co.nz 52

Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

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Story + Photos Jim Robinson

Eastern Bay of Plenty

Whakatāne trails

Five easy Eastern Bay bike rides As well as sand and surf, the eastern Bay of Plenty offers some fantastic cycling that’s ideal for families

Special Edition 2019

Eastern Bay of Plenty

Whakatāne trails

Whakatāne riverside

At under 5km long and 100 per cent flat, the Whakatāne riverside cycle and walking trail doesn’t require big legs. But this pretty, fully-paved ride is a gem, taking you along the bank of the Whakatāne River to the ocean. Park in town or near the coast. In half an hour or so of easy cycling, you’ll enjoy vistas ranging from estuary salt marsh, to a busy marina and a wharf area that is the berthing point for boats heading to Whakaari/White Island and to Moutohorā/Whale Island. There are a couple of good play areas along the way and, near the coast, easy access to the water for swimming. You pass close to cafés and right past Whakatāne visitor information centre, where there are hire bikes. Whakatāne Holiday Park is also beside the trail.

Ōhope harbour and ocean roads

Ōhope is best known for its glorious 11km sweep of sandy beach but it is also a popular spot for on-road, flat biking (lots of e-bikes being used here). Park at Maraetotara Reserve, a kilometre east of the Ōhope shopping village, or at the Ōhope wharf. Pedal one way along Ohiwa’s Harbour Road, and the other along Ocean Road. Add on West End and Ōhope boat ramp and you’ll have ridden up to 20km. You’ll find several shops along the way for ice-creams. Both Maraetotara Reserve and Harbour Road have good playgrounds. There’s patrolled swimming near Ōhope village and great sheltered swimming at the Ōhope wharf. Two great places to stay are the Ōhope Beach TOP 10 Holiday Park, and Driftsand Boutique Accommodation, which is nestled at West End. As Motu Trails official partners, both these businesses support local cycle trails. 56

Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

Burma Road Up a notch in difficulty, but still very accessible, Burma Road is a popular gravel ride that passes through peaceful farmland and forest in the hills behind Ōhope. This area is important environmentally as it is home to many kiwi and other birds such as toutouwai and the North Island robin. The best way to ride Burma Road is to park at Maraetotara Reserve. Head south on Maraetotara road, then veer right, west, onto Burma Road (it’s signed). A steady, twisting climb takes you up through forest and down to the main Ōhope– Whakatāne road. Burma Road’s surface is gravel and at least 3m wide all the way. From the main road, there’s roadside trail all the way back to Ōhope, with the main downhill a concrete riding surface. The roadside trail goes all the way from Whakatāne to Ōhope.

Dunes Trail The Dunes Trail section of the Motu Trails starts in Ōpōtiki and takes you on 9km of superb coastal off-road riding. Groups ride from just a few kilometres to the full coastal trail distance, 18km return. The trail undulates most of the way, so a bit of fitness is needed to do the whole thing. The Dunes Trail kicks off in spectacular fashion, crossing the Pakowhai ki Otutaopuku bridge over the Otara river. There’s parking by the bridge and toilets in the centre of Memorial Park. You’ll find multiple shelters and seats along the ride. At Tirohanga, 6km from Ōpōtiki , the trail passes right onto the beach, with wooden decking, but most of the Dunes Trail is packed gravel. The Motu Trails is one of the 22 Great Rides on The New Zealand Cycle Trail. Detailed information brochure/maps can be sent anywhere in New Zealand free of charge, email jim@motutrails.co.nz with your address. There is also a lot of information from Ōpōtiki and Whakatāne iSITES and at motutrails.co.nz. There are multiple accommodation providers in and near Ōpōtiki that are Motu Trails official partners. These include Tirohanga Beach Motor Camp, which is midway along the trail, and Ōpōtiki Holiday Park, which is very close to the start. Special Edition 2019

Eastern Bay of Plenty

Whakatāne trails

Ohiwa Harbourside

The mouth of Ohiwa Harbour, by Ohiwa Beach Holiday Park, is 15km from Ōpōtiki and a stunning area. You can ride from the end of Ohiwa Harbour Road (where there’s a shelter and parking) for 5km to Ohiwa boat ramp and another shelter and parking area. There’s a roadside trail the whole way, though in places it’s rough and easier to ride on the quiet road. Ohiwa is a taonga, a treasure, for birdlife. You’ll likely see herons, tōrea (oystercatcher), weka, kōtare (kingfisher), kawau (shag), tara (tern), gulls and other birds. Ohiwa Beach Holiday Park sits at the base of Onekawa Te Mawhai regional park – cycling is not allowed, but the walk up to two historic pā sites is magnificent.

Contact

Whakatāne iSITE is at Quay Street,  call 0800 942 528, or go to Whakatāne.com Ōpōtiki iSITE is at 70 Bridge Street,  call 07 31 3031, or go to  Ōpōtiki nz.com This story featured in RV Travel lifestyle issue 68.

Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

28, ge

Nestled on the Nestled eastern onshores the eastern shores of theNestled Ohiwaon of Harbour the Ohiwa in ashores Harbour in a the eastern sparselyof populated populated thesparsely Ohiwa segment Harbour in a segment populated of thesparsely Bay of of Plenty the Bay liessegment of a Plenty lies a of thehidden Baysettlement of Plenty hidden gem, the gem, lies the asettlement hidden gem, the of settlement of Ohiwa. Ohiwa. of Ohiwa.

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Special Edition 2019

Eastland / Bay of Plenty

Motu Trails

Story + Photos Jim Robinson or as credited

historic trails Cycling the Motu Trails between Ōpōtiki and Gisborne, there’s the ever-present whisper of history, writes Jim Robinson

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usually get to Toatoa riding from Ōpōtiki, so I’ve puffed my way over the 440-metre-high summit of Meremere hill, and descended into what has been called the valley of clouds many times. Toatoa’s one of my favourite parts of the Motu Road. You’re deep in the eastern Bay of Plenty hills, the backcountry farmland is slowly being reclaimed by bush, and three cars an hour counts as busy. What I love most about Toatoa – aside from precocious weka and the warm welcome of Toatoa Farmstay – is its back story. The Motu Road completed the first Ōpōtiki–Gisborne road connection by 1915. Toatoa quickly became a hive of activity and ambition, with a post office, dairy factory, settlers hall and school. For a few years, a small café offered a popular resting point. Travellers would take the train from Gisborne to Moutohora, near Motu, and dine or spend the night at a grand Motu Hotel, before catching a service car to Ōpōtiki.

All that has long gone. Today, most travellers choose the convenience of the sealed Waioeka Gorge road, which first opened in 1929 and is now part of State Highway Two. Toatoa dairy factory burned down, the post office shut in the 1960s, and the school closed in 1973, way before I knew Toatoa even existed. But often when wheeling through the valley, I like to imagine the clattering of dray carts, the later chugging of service cars, and all those distant journeys. The Motu Road shares its history quietly, but it’s there, if you listen. The Motu Road is the backbone of the Motu Trails, one of 22 Great Rides on Ngā Haerenga, The New Zealand Cycle Trail. The other sections of Motu Trails are the Pakihi Track and the Dunes Trail. Linking to the Motu Road, Rere Falls Trail is an on-road backcountry cycle touring route to Gisborne. MOTU ROAD Plenty of Motu Trails cyclists start their journey at Matawai, on the Gisborne–Ōpōtiki highway, or at Motu. Either way, you’re at around 500m altitude, so make sure you have warm clothing and supplies. Once you leave Motu, the Motu Road has no shops until you get to the coast. From Matawai, the first 14km to Motu is all sealed road. Along the way, look for the abandoned wooden rail bridge, where it’s easy to imagine a shrill train’s whistle. A century ago there were ambitious plans to complete a Gisborne–Ōpōtiki rail link, with one route option including a four-mile tunnel. But the terrain proved too rugged. The dream died, and even the existing railway line closed in 1959. Much of the first bit of road from Matawai is built over the line.

1. Calm of the Dunes Trail at dawn, Neil Robert Hutton 2. High on the Motu Road, David Finn 3. Roadside relic at Toatoa, Cameron MacKenzie, NZ Cycling Journal Special Edition 2019

Eastland / Bay of Plenty

Motu Trails

4. Motu Road

was built by hand, horse and explosives 5-6. Midway between Matawai and Motu, look for the now-disused wooden rail bridge. Photo 6 Strike Photography 7-8. Make the 10km outandback ride to Motu Falls – especially if the river’s full. Photo 7 Neil Robert Hutton 9. Dunes Trail. Photo Neil Hutton 10. The Dunes Trail undulates eastwards amongst the sand dunes. Photo Jim Robinson

6 You’ll find cyclist-friendly cabins and tent sites at Matawai Camp & Store (great coffee, high-speed internet, groceries) and simple, comfortable accommodation at Motu Community House. From Motu settlement, it’s worth making the 10km out-and-back ride (or drive) to Motu Falls, especially if there has been recent rain and the Motu River is full. There’s a pedestrian swing-bridge just downriver from the falls, providing a dramatic and sometimes thunderous vantage point. This spot was once a crucial point on a coast-to-coast horse track that predated Motu Road by a generation. Since 1877, there have been four bridges. The Motu River also carries fascinating stories. From 1956 to 1963, there were extensive government investigations into its hydroelectric potential. Ultimately, four spots on the Motu were seen as possible dam sites, with one leading to construction of Otipi road, which heads off from near Toatoa (now a stunning adventure ride). But like the railway line, the economics of damming the river didn’t stack up. Subsequent environmental campaigning led to the Motu River becoming the first in New Zealand to be protected by 1981 ‘Wild and Scenic Rivers’ legislation.

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8 Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

In Te Reo Māori, Motu can mean cut off, and heading north from Motu settlement, it seems an apt description. The road is gravel and climbs 300m skywards. The forest soon pushes in. Over the next 15km I’ve seen wild goats and deer, and been almost brushed by weka and kererū (wood pigeon). At altitude, the air can be sharp, but backcountry cycling simply doesn’t get better. Just shy of the 780m highpoint, you’ll spot a red-roofed shelter. This is a popular drop-off point for bike shuttle providers (Motu Trails Ltd, Motu Trails Hire and Shuttle, Cycle Gisborne). From here, it’s a mostly downhill 9km to the start of the Pakihi Track – a good way to get in tune with your bike, with little effort. If you’re not riding the Pakihi, you have a total of 55km riding from Motu settlement to the coast, 48km of this being unsealed. You’re dropping to sea level, so there’s obviously more down than up, but don’t be complacent as there are still several stiff climbs. Two more shelters offer rest points. Many groups stay overnight at Toatoa Farmstay. After you’ve descended the 6km-long Meremere hill and reached the Ōpōtiki coast, head onto the Dunes Trail to ride 9km back to Ōpōtiki. DUNES TRAIL The Dunes Trail is an easy-grade gravel track that undulates amongst the Pacific Coast sand dunes. Most cyclists start at Memorial Park in Ōpōtiki and ride out up to 9km point, then return to Memorial Park.

9 For shorter rides and walks, Hukuwai beach (3km east of Ōpōtiki on SH35) also makes a good start/finish point. As described above, for some the Dunes Trail is the last stretch of a longer ride. The Dunes Trail is open and flowing, with the smell of salt air and continual sea views. You don’t need to be fit or experienced to enjoy this one; conversely, there’s enough flow that an experienced rider will have fun. I’ve cycled the Dunes Trail with everyone from a fit 81-yearold to a bunch of primary school children, and all ended with smiles.

10 Special Edition 2019

Eastland / Bay of Plenty

Motu Trails

I’ve also seen trikes, hand bikes and walking groups. Since opening seven years ago, the Dunes Trail has had tremendous environmental regeneration, with close to 20,000 trees and plants dug in. Each year, there are several volunteer planting days. The area the trail passes through used to be grazed in many places; now, much of it is quietly growing. Your accommodation options around Ōpōtiki are plentiful, with Eastland Pacific Motor Lodge, Ōpōtiki Holiday Park, and Oasis Backpackers 11 all in the township, and Tirohanga Beach Motor Camp midway along the Dunes Trail. You’ll find cyclist-friendly refreshment at the Hot Bread Shop, and Kafe Friends. As with all the operators mentioned in this article, they are all Motu Trails official partners, so when you stay with them you support the operation of the Motu Trails. PAKIHI TRACK The Pakihi Track was opened up from the early 1900s. It was usable by horse riders by about 1909, and had a substantial suspension bridge by 1914. In the early years, it was hoped the Pakihi would eventually become a coach road, but the terrain proved volatile and the aspiration faded to a stock track. Even that was too much. The bridge was destroyed in a huge 1918 flood and by 1920 the track was described as unusable. The brutal reality was that, with the Motu Road and later the Waioeka Gorge road opened up, the Pakihi Track had no economic reason for being, for many decades. The New Zealand Forest Service did a lot of track work in the 1970s and 1980s, and from the early 1990s there was volunteer work by keen tramping and biking locals. Even so, when the track was profiled as an exciting backcountry ride in New Zealand Adventure magazine, around 1993 – under the headline ‘Iron Steeds on the Pakihi Track’ – there was as much walking with your bike on your shoulder as there was riding. The track made New Zealand’s bike bible, Classic New Zealand Mountain Bike Rides, in the late 1990s, but the 2005 issue described it as “50% semi-rideable jungle country, 50% sweet single track”. Three years later, the guide rued, “in 2007 a big storm closed the Pakihi Track, dropping a load of trees and opening up some large slips … it doesn’t

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13 Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

sound like the Pakihi will ever be fully rideable again.” Fortunately, when the concept of the New Zealand Cycle Trail emerged in 2009, the Pakihi Track was selected to feature in the new Motu Trails Great Ride. DOC brought the classic track back to its best, including 24 wooden bridges and a 32-metre wire suspension bridge at exactly the point of the 1914–18 bridge. (As you ride over the bridge, look alongside, as some of the old bridge supports are still standing.) The Pakihi twists through superb, unspoiled bush. But that human connection never ceases to impress me: the thought of two teams of workmen 105 years ago cutting through such an evenly graded trail in such epic country, with just shovels, pickaxes, horses and explosives. At some points the track slices through the ridge-tops to maintain gradient. Lower down, the ground is rotten rock. If I’m ever weary, I remind myself of that mighty effort, and stop complaining to myself. The Pakihi is billed as an adventure ride (grade four/advanced) and needs treating with respect. There’s no mobile phone coverage and it’s essential to be prepared (I take a personal locator beacon). The riding is not especially technical, but there are steep drop-offs to the side, and the track is prone to slips and windfalls. It’s definitely for riders who are experienced off-road. Don’t go fast. Walk any bits you’re unsure of. Be aware that you may need to carry your bike. All sounding too serious? No problem. A perfect option is to walk the Pakihi. On a bike, the track is one-way from the Motu Road, but on foot you can go both directions. If you’re relatively fit, the full length (just over 20km) is easily achievable in a day. Stay at the basic but tidy DOC hut at halfway for a more leisurely pace.

From the end of the Pakihi Track, there’s a 9km stretch of undulating, unsealed road following the river, then a flat, straight dozen kilometres on the tar seal back to Ōpōtiki, at which point you can finish off on 4km of river stopbank trail. In a headwind the road section can be a grind, so if you don’t like sticking your head down, you may want to plan a vehicle pick-up. There’s also accommodation near the end of the track, notably Weka Wilds, and Bushaven – both excellent. Stay, if you can, and be woken by birdsong. RERE FALLS TRAIL As an on-road route, Rere Falls Trail is termed a Heartland Ride on The New Zealand Cycle Trail. This trail is ideal for those into multi-day bike-packing or cycle touring. From Matawai to Gisborne is 100km, mostly on quiet roads and with 27km of gravel. By linking Motu Road, and if you want other local gravel roads like Whakarau Road and Rakauroa Road, you can easily create awesome adventures of several hundred kilometres. Accommodation is handily placed at Te Wera Homestead (20km from Matawai), at Eastwoodhill Arboretum, and in Gisborne at Portside Hotel. Again, all these businesses are official partners to the trails. Just like Motu Road, Rere Falls Trail is hilly. It’s wonderful backcountry, with patches of forested DOC reserve and big high-country farms, then closer to Gisborne, vineyards and horticulture. Eastwoodhill Arboretum is the National Arboretum of New Zealand, with 25km of walking trails. Rere Falls and Rere Rockslide are also well worth a stop. A simple solution to arrange your ride is to talk to Cycle Gisborne, who offer guided and self-guided tours from two hours to many days. This story updates one featured in RV Travel lifestyle issue 45.

14 More info

For information, maps, official partners and more, visit motutrails.co.nz; or contact Ōpōtiki i-SITE on 07 315 3031 or Gisborne i-SITE on 06 867 2000. A Motu Trails brochure can be mailed free to any address in New Zealand, just email jim@ motutrails.co.nz to ask for yours. 11. One of 25 bridges on the Pakihi Track, Cameron MacKenzie. Photo NZ Mountain Biker 12. The modern Pakihi suspension bridge is shadowed by the remains of the original wooden bridge. Studio Zag 13. Cycle Gisborne group on Rere Falls Trail. PMead Norton Photography 14. Coffee break at Matawai Camp & Store. Photo Mead Norton Photography

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Midway along the spectacular Motu Road, Toatoa Farm Stay is ideally placed and offers you a warm welcome, with dinner, bed, breakfast & packed lunch, plus option of bike hire and bag transport.

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With Motu Trails official partners you can be sure of a great experience, plus, official partners are helping the trails. Visit motutrails.co.nz and see Services/info A-Z Special Edition 2019

Eastland Bay of Plenty

Ōpōtiki

Story + Photos Jim Robinson or as credited

Freedom to Coast Ōpōtiki’s Dunes Trail captures the essence of the eastern Bay of Plenty

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he Dunes Trail has made quite an impression since it was officially opened in mid-2012. It’s now journeyed by around 20,000 cyclists per year, plus many walkers and runners. Intrepid travellers, fitness enthusiasts, families, a Thursdayevening ‘bike, beer and BBQ’ group, youth groups, motorhomers, e-bikers, hand-bikers – they’re all out there enjoying it. Trail counters confirm usage is growing each year. It’s not just a numbers game, either. Like other trails in special places around New Zealand, Ōpōtiki’s Dunes Trail has clearly captured a lot of hearts. The easy-rated trail is one section of the Motu Trails that, in turn, is one of the 22 Great Rides on Ngā Haerenga, The New Zealand Cycle Trail. The other sections of the Motu Trails are the historic Motu Road, which stretches a hilly 68km from the Dunes Trail to Matawai; and the advanced-grade Pākihi Track, an epic 20km that wriggles down through jungle forest, back to gravel road in the hills south of Ōpōtiki. And there’s more; at Matawai, the Motu Road connects with Rere Falls Trail, which is a back-country road ‘Heartland Ride’ that heads east to Gisborne via picturesque Rere Falls, adrenalin-inducing Rere Rockslide, serene Eastwoodhill Arboretum, and vineyard country. Bike-packing enthusiasts regularly clock up hundreds of kilometres riding Bay to Bay, then back or onwards to Lake Waikaremoana or around East Cape on SH35. At which point let’s gently apply the brakes: there’s more than enough for one story in the Dunes Trail alone. Ōpōtiki is 40-minutes’ drive from Whakatāne, and one-and-a-half hours from Tauranga, Rotorua and Gisborne. You start at Memorial Park, at the north end of town. There’s Motu Trails signage, parking and a shelter with carved pou, but the biggest impact is in an 80-metre suspension bridge crossing high over the Otara river. This is Pākowhai ki Otutaopuku bridge, reflecting the name of the area each side. Pākowhai was the original village here, long before Ōpōtiki; Otutaopuku refers to a distant battle. Cross the bridge and there’s 800 metres of stopbank before you head into the dunes proper. From here, the style of riding is set: pedal harder up the incline of a dune, roll over the top, then coast down the other side. Pedal, roll and coast. Pedal, roll and coast. The rises are never long or steep, but their regularity means the Dunes Trail does require a bit more energy than riding, say, the flat of Hawkes Bay Trails. No surprise, the Ōpōtiki dunes are popular with e-bikers. A kilometre in, you pass a couple of trail-side displays that use old

concrete culverts as plinths, topped with ceramic bird tiles showing weka, pied stilts and other species of the area. The culverts are a nod to the concept of reusing materials wherever possible, the tiles are made by local potters Margaret and Stuart Slade, who in 2018 were awarded QSMs for their conservation efforts at Nukuhou Saltmarsh on Ohiwa Harbour. They’re also regular Dunes Trail riders. At two kilometres, bench seats sit on a panoramic viewpoint. It’s well worth pausing here – many do – and taking in the sweep of the Pacific. To the west, there’s the headland of Kohi Point, beyond which is Whakatāne and Moutohorā (Whale Island), a wildlife reserve. To the north, the active volcano Whakaari/White Island, typically with a cotton wool puff of steam. On a calm day there’s likely also the dot of a mussel harvesting boat, servicing the many kilometres of offshore mussel lines that are surely a big part of Ōpōtiki’s future. To the east, the high inland ranges of the Raukumara, fading in the distance towards East Cape. In the immediate foreground, the rhythm of waves on an empty beach. Pedal, roll and coast a bit further and you’re at Hukuwai, where there’s a parking area and toilets, a very popular spot. Hukuwai translates directly as ‘tail water’, referring to fish tails splashing in the water. Oral stories (kōrero tukuiho) passed down through generations of the Whakatōhea people recall how the splashing of waters here would signal the arrival of a large school of fish. At Hukuwai, a net would be set stretching up to a kilometre from end to end; the catch would feed everyone, often with large tāmure (snapper). The next three kilometres have seen some intensive planting. Environmental restoration is a central part of the Dunes Trail story. Each winter, around 3000 trees, shrubs, reeds and flaxes are dug in, across several community planting days. Mostly the volunteers are locals, but I love that three times in recent years, Auckland group Shah Satnam Ji Green S Welfare Force Wing have come down and helped at a planting day. Since 2012, total plantings have reached close to 20,000, adding further appeal to the spectacular coastal environment. Invasive species like boxthorn, gorse and pampas have largely been controlled. One notable native plant is Euphorbia glauca, which can now be found thriving at many points on the trail. On a nationwide level, this species is at risk, due to introduced grazers, habitat loss and competition from introduced grasses. The plant’s Māori name is waiū atua, which is loosely translated to ‘milk of the Gods’. It was widely used in rongoā, traditional Māori medicine.

1. Kenny McCracken in

orange, of Mighty Motu Bike Tours. Photo by Neil Robert Hutton 2. Looking east from near Hukuwai 3. Pākowhai ki Otutaopuku makes an impressive start Special Edition 2019

Eastland Bay of Plenty

Ōpōtiki

But the plant species that best defines the trail is Muehlenbeckia, pōhuehue, a native vine which in large areas has now regenerated to form a dense blanket over the dunes. (‘Duvet’ might be a better metaphor, considering its loft.) Muehlenbeckia is an important stabilising species, binding the sand and suppressing invasive plant species. It’s also good habitat for birds, insects and pretty little Coastal Copper butterflies, which you often see flitting over the top. “Twenty or so years ago, parts of the dunes were grazed. The coastal eco-system was in a poor state,” remarks Tim Senior of Bay of Plenty Regional Council. “Now the community comes and helps in planting days. There has been a huge shift in how people think about the coastal environment.” “We’re learning a lot about what works and what doesn’t in planting. We’re using larger plants, because they seem to survive better in the harsh coastal conditions,” Tim says. Experience has led to strategies like not weeding around seedlings, because those weeds create a protective shield from rabbits. Tirohanga Beach marks almost six kilometres of riding. This is the most photographed section of trail, with two six-metre-high carved pou, and two sections of wooden decking across the beach. In storms, both sections of decking are submerged by waves, but routing options were limited – out of necessity has come an iconic section of trail. Alongside the second section of decking, planted Spinifex (native grass) is thriving, and the dune is building up. This is another great place to pause, especially in summer when the pōhutukawa throw shade onto the hot sand. “You just have to stop and say ‘it’s magic’,” comments Marg Green, one of many locals who rides regularly. “The trail is a good workout because it’s not flat and straight. It suits a wide range of abilities, ages and speeds.” Pedal, roll and coast your way onwards and you’re soon passing the excellent Tirohanga Beach Motor Camp, a popular place with cyclists. Then it’s the final stretch to the eastern end of the Dunes Trail, where the rises get a little higher, the ranges get a little closer and the Muehlenbeckia gets a little thicker. The trail goes roadside at the nine-kilometre mark, where a shelter is planned. From here, you can continue on to the Motu Road (there’s another shelter a kilometre on), or turn back for Ōpōtiki the same way. Like all the Great Rides, you can ride the Dunes Trail for free. It’s a resource for everyone. You can hire bikes from Motu Trails Limited, right near the start of the trail, or from Motu Trails Hire & Shuttle.

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4 A new option, a superb way to understand the heart of the trail, is to take a guided ride with Mighty Motu Bike Tours. Owner/operator Kenny McCracken is very experienced (he also runs KG Kayaks, offering many on-water options) and he has a great knack for sharing the stories and environmental highlights of the area. Plus, his three-hour Dunes Trail guided ride comes with coffee and home-baked muffins. While the Dunes Trail is not difficult to follow yourself, having a guide adds a whole new dimension of understanding into what makes the area special. “For me, Mighty Motu Bike Tours is about sharing the character of a place I love,” Kenny reflects. “Our tours are all about sharing the rich history of the land, the warmth of the locals and the endless beauty manifested in the rivers, beaches, bush and ocean. There’s a little bit of magic at every turn in the eastern Bay of Plenty.”

6 Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

4. Kenny McCracken at Tirohanga beach, where he’s helped with plantings. Photo Neil Robert Hutton 5. You often see Coastal Copper butterflies flitting over the Muehlenbeckia, pōhuehue 6. Euphorbia is a rare species that is flourishing on the Dunes Trail

cyclists, some walkers [who ask about the trail] and it’s definitely all Motu Trails, including the Dunes Trail, is managed by a governance ages. It’s one of our best tourism products – we fully support and love it!” partnership, made up of Ōpōtiki District Council, DOC, Whakatōhea The Dunes Trail has about eight squeeze bars to stop non-bike/foot Māori Trust Board, Activate Tairāwhiti, and Motu Trails Charitable traffic. Children and cyclists with drop bars or panniers may need to Trust (I’m involved in the Motu Trails Trust). Each organisation has dismount at these spots. Hand-bikers can get a key to open the adjoining different roles and responsibilities. A whole bunch of volunteers help too, swing gates by contacting Ōpōtiki i-SITE. You can find out more about notably for things like volunteer track maintenance. Small communities Motu Trails and Rere Falls Trail at: www.motutrails.co.nz, or by asking need to work together. at Gisborne, Ōpōtiki or Whakatāne i-SITES. Motu Trails Facebook The Motu Trails Charitable Trust runs an official partner programme, and Instagram pages are: Motu Trails Cycleway. To have a Motu Trails which generates income that helps manage the trails, as well as giving brochure mailed free anywhere in New Zealand, email your postal address users the assurance of quality services, accommodation and food. It’s to jim@motutrails.co.nz. good to choose official partners as they are the ones helping it to happen. Andrea and Volker Grindel joined the official partner programme in mid-2018, after seeing the spark the trails are bringing to Ōpōtiki. This story featured in NZToday issue 83. Volker runs Central Oasis Accommodation, an original villa that’s located in a quiet spot just off the town’s main street. In the front garden, Andrea runs Kafé Friends, a popular coffee cart. “We have cyclists regularly stay here and Kafé Friends is a very popular choice for chilling after the ride,” says Volker, who rides the Dunes Trail many mornings. A Nostalgic Journey of the Past “The trails offer a ride and a challenge Opotiki Holiday Park is the ideal location for your stay in the Easten Bay of Plenty. Powered & non – powered sites, for all ages and abilities. Just recently self-contained units, cabins. Pet friendly, 3km to beach, bars we had a group of Germans here, four & cafes. Next to walking & cycle trail. Swimming pool. adults and four children aged eight to Book online by visiting opotikiholidaypark.co.nz twelve and not comfortable in riding or phone your friendly host Raje Sharma on 07 3156 050 bikes. Later we heard amazing stories how they ‘mastered’ the Dunes Trail!” Andrea adds, “All the cyclists enjoy Your Kiwi holiday sitting in the garden afterwards and home at Omaio Bay PLUS A 100 YEAR HARDWARE having a little snack and a coffee. A perfect beach holiday getaway Especially the young riders – it’s a family & GROCERY STORE event. I sometimes think they only join the bike ride to get their well-deserved Entry $10 ph: 021 364230 | email: omyomaio@gmail.com and very much loved hot chocolate or 10am - 4pm Mon-Fri, 10am - 2pm Sat, closed Sun www.omaiobay.co.nz iced chocolate!” Down at the Ōpōtiki i-SITE, manager 123 Church St Joseph Hayes is another keen advocate. ph: 07 315 5193 email: ohas@xtra.co.nz “The Dunes Trail is one of our main www.opotikimuseum.org.nz enquiries,” he confirms. “It’s mostly

OPOTIKI MUSEUM

Special Edition 2019

Eastland

Tairāwhiti - Gisborne Trails

Story + Photos Jim Robinson

A taste of TairAwhiti on bikes Tairāwhiti Gisborne is fast being discovered as a diverse cycling destination

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Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

1-2. Oneroa Cycle

and Walkway offers magnificent coastal views 3. The trails were beautifully presented 4. James Cook statue marks the landing place of the Endeavour

“O

ur mission is for visitors to cycle up an appetite. Not just for Gisborne’s fine food and wine, but also to cycle more often,” enthuses Katrina Duncan, co-owner of Cycle Gisborne. On a sublime blue-sky-and-sea Tairāwhiti day she shared exactly that; cycle ride, cider-taste, cycle, beer-pizza – then cycle a bit more. Katrina and her business partner, Anelia Evans, launched Cycle Gisborne (cyclegisborne.com) in 2010. They now have a fleet of bikes and run guided and freedom cycle tours all year, as well as delivering cycle skills training and consultancy. Our wheeled early-March meander was a blend of their ‘Captain Cook City Cultural Tour’ and ‘Great Taste City Tour’, taking us on a journey through Gisborne town and along the Tūranganui River bank to the coast, mixed in with refreshing visits to Harvest Cidery and Sunshine Brewery. “We’re finding that the Captain Cook tour is very popular with cruise ship passengers as well as New Zealanders,” Katrina says. “On one of the cruise ship visits we had 48 people altogether with groups of up to 16 and three guides, but we also guide groups of just two or three people.” Over the last year around 300 people have pedalled Cycle Gisborne’s Captain Cook tour, which takes two-and-a-half hours. The Great Taste is a newer addition but looks like it will also be popular. Either way, you encounter no hills and get plenty of breaks, so the required fitness level is relaxed. Everything is provided. You just need to be able to ride a bike. Katrina is clearly passionate about history and culture, popping facts and stories most of the 4 ride. I’ve biked and run the Gisborne foreshore

before, so Oneroa Beachfront Cycle and Walkway was no surprise – a spectacular timber and paved ride along Waikanae beach front, with surfers and swimmers out on the water, families relaxing on the sand, and some superb trackside regeneration of coastal tussock. What I didn’t realise, though, was quite how much art the whole area can boast. In town, we first stopped at the carved Te Tauihu Turanga Whakamana, shaped in the form of a waka (canoe) prow, where Katrina talked about the ancestors who first made Tūranganui-a-Kiwa their home. Pedalling on, there seemed to be murals all over the place, a legacy of projects like 2018’s Sea Walls, Artists for Oceans, which saw over 20 local and visiting artists; and of Project Ataahua (projectataahua.nz), a Young Enterprise team from Gisborne Girls’ High School, who commission artists to create bold murals. Perhaps most of all, long-time Gisborne artist, the late Graeme Mudge QSM, painted a host of historical tributes to the city and its people. Tūranganui River is New Zealand’s shortest river, just 1200 metres long from the confluence of the Taruheru and Waimata Rivers out to the sea. So it didn’t take long for Katrina, Karen and me to reach the statue of Captain James Cook, erected at the river mouth before the turn of the millennium. Katrina talked some more about first settlement of Tūranganui-a-Kiwa, and about Cook’s voyages – three times around the world – and how the first interaction of peoples had a tragic outcome due to misunderstanding. A little further, we paused again at a statue of Nicholas Young, first on Cook’s ship Endeavour to spot the New Zealand coastline. The backdrop to the statue, way out over the water, is the dramatic headland Te Kurī-a-Pāoa/Young Nicks Head. Special Edition 2019

Eastland

Tairāwhiti - Gisborne Trails

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Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

Altogether less sombre was our first refreshment stop at Harvest Cidery (harvestcider.co.nz) that has been using local apples to produce award-winning cider brands for 30 years. Teresa shared tasty samples from the cidery range – super-refreshing on a hot day. “Stopping at Harvest Cidery is a highlight of the Great Taste Tour,” says Katrina. “Some of our European visitors have never tasted cider before. We love being able to showcase local Tairāwhiti produce.” Our second refreshment stop came at Sunshine Brewery (sunshinebrewery.co.nz) that is also 30 years old and, as such, can lay claim to being New Zealand’s oldest independent craft brewery. Housed in a refurbished historic woolshed, a range of beers are poured in the Tap Room, where we also tucked into pizza. As Katrina says, “It’s a fantastic watering hole stacked with history that we enjoy visiting with or without customers!”

7 The final art spotted before we ducked inland was the old Gisborne jail, a gothic-looking red brick building that was built in 1910, housing criminals until 1952 and then holiday-park campers until 1983. It’s been derelict ever since. Ghostly figures are painted in the windows, echoing the past.

WHATAUPOKO RESERVE Probably just as well I fuelled up on pizza at the Tap Room because 75 minutes of vigorous effort followed later in the day. Whataupoko Reserve, just five minutes from the centre of town, has been a popular mountain biking and walking/running area for years – the location is ideal for handy fitness missions and fun. The area used to be known as Langford Fallon Reserve, when local Bernie Vette oversaw the development of a network of trails. Since late-2018 the 22-hectare reserve has got a lot better. A major upgrade has seen a range of new mountain biking trails created, plus an upgrade of the existing walking and dual-use trails. The project was led by Gisborne Mountain Bike Club and Gisborne Council, supported by funding from Eastland Community Trust and New Zealand Community Trust. Specialist trail builders Southstar Trails did the work.

5. Portside Hotel, a popular stay for those riding Rere Falls Trail and other trails 6. Gisborne’s old prison building with ghostly window art 7. Mountain biking in the recently upgraded Whataupoko Reserve 8. Young Nick and out towards Muriwai

8 Special Edition 2019

Eastland

Tairāwhiti - Gisborne Trails

Anyone who’s into mountain bike park riding will forge a firm smile at Whataupoko: it’s not massive but it’s incredibly dense with trails wriggling through mostly established forest. Two ascending trails and seven descending trails span different grade options. Personally I’m of the mindset that bike wheels are best kept firmly on the ground, but for anyone who likes getting up and airborne, there’s lots of opportunity for making it happen. With the sun starting to lower, I was shown the new trails by Steferl Gordon, secretary of the Gisborne Mountain Bike Club. “I’m just one small part of a very enthusiastic committee, who together have made this happen,” Steferl comments. “It has been a real success. It’s so pleasing to see heaps of people using the trails every day, there are all ages and levels out there just having fun.” “In the three months since we first had a couple of new trails open we’ve had visitors from all over New Zealand and the world riding them, and loving them! There are three grade-two trails and a mix of harder grade so it’s going to keep everyone entertained.” Signage is under way but the Reserve is small enough that a ‘follow your nose’ approach works fine. For the first few laps, you don’t know quite where you are, but whichever trail you take down, you seem to keep popping back out at the start. Whataupoko Reserve trails are open to all, for free. The two main entry points are on Fox Street and Hauroa Road. Please respect any trail signage or closures, because many of the trails are new and work may be going on.

RERE FALLS TRAIL An altogether different kind of riding is to be found on Rere Falls Trail, which travels the twisting, sometimes-gravel back-country roads between Gisborne and Matawai. This is a 100km journey designated as a ‘Heartland Ride’ under The New Zealand Cycle Trail. Keen bikers spin the whole distance of the Rere Falls Trail in one or two days, while some link in Motu Trails and ride from coast to coast, Ōpōtiki to Gisborne or vice versa. Others prefer cruising the mostly flatlands between Eastwoodhill Arboretum and Gisborne, enjoying a vineyard lunch on the way. The road between Gisborne, Eastwoodhill and Rere Rockslide is all sealed, so you don’t need off-road machines. Non-cyclists can drive. Eastwoodhill is the National Arboretum of New Zealand, a forestland haven with around 3500 different species of exotic and native trees, sprawling over 131 hectares. The arboretum offers cyclist-friendly accommodation. Further inland towards Matawai, Te Wera Homestead recently opened doors for business, with owner Lou offering accommodation for up to 10 people in a refurbished farmhouse. The Homestead is well placed as an overnight stop for those biking between Gisborne and Ōpōtiki in two or three days. So take your pick: make your own way, or have a supported ride; go for a quick spin or go far; ride gravel or sealed road, waterfront, coastal, trail, bike park. Whatever your preference, it’s another taste of Tairāwhiti Gisborne. This story featured in RV Travel lifestyle issue 76.

9. Millennium wall of tiles and ocean foreshore art

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Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

Tairāwhiti Museum & Art Gallery 10 Stout Street, Gisborne Mon – Sat 10am – 4pm | Sun & Public Holidays 1.30 – 4pm Entry $5, Tairāwhiti residents and children 12 and under FREE 5 min walk from CBD, free parking, bike stands, step-free access, free WiFi, Exhibit café

06 8673832 | www.tairawhitimuseum.org.nz

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5 day guided tours, including the Motu trails and Rere Falls Trails

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p. 06 9277021 | e. info@cyclegisborne.com | www.cyclegisborne.com

A New Zealand Must-Do! The largest collection of northern hemisphere trees in the southern hemisphere and an arboreal ark for threatened trees. Come and experience the beauty and wonder of our world at Eastwoodhill with over 25,000 species of exotic and native plants to explore.

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A: 2392 Wharekopae Rd, RD 2, Ngatapa, Gisborne P: +64 6 863 9003 E: enquiries@eastwoodhill.org.nz

www.eastwoodhill.org.nz Special Edition 2019

Central Plateau

Mountains to Sea

Story + Photos Gary Patterson

A Ride in the Park

How about starting a cycle journey that begins higher than any other in the country; descends from an active volcano into a lush rainforest filled with tunnels and viaducts, before reaching a bridge to nowhere with a jet boat escape back to civilisation? Well I don’t know about you, but I didn’t need a giant carrot to tempt me to Ohakune to start this epic ride!

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o it was that on a cool autumn day my wife and I headed to the centre of the North Island. We were conscious of an ex-tropical weather system that was bearing down on the region, threatening to thwart our plan. Our plan was to ride the connecting pathways of the Mountains to Sea Trail – Ngā Ara Tuhono through the Tongariro National Park and onto the more challenging back country sections in the Whanganui National Park the next day. After arriving late in the day at the alpine village that is Ohakune, we promptly headed up to the Turoa ski field where we stood above a ceiling of cloud and watched the sun go down below the white shroud that was pierced only by the triangular silhouette of Mt Taranaki. The next morning we rode from our chalet to the start of the trail located beside the quaint railway station on the main trunk line. Turning our pedals and chugging our way out of town, it seemed to be a fitting way to start our cycle journey. At the station I attach three GPS units to my bike, switching them on to warm up ready to map our way. I watch the screens flicker, briefly illustrating the shores of Lake Wakatipu (which is our home turf) until they triangulate our new position far to the north and realise we are all on an adventure. The multiple GPSs are along for the ride as I am a cartographer, and while on this jaunt I am gathering data for my app – the Great Rides App. Finally the screens all flash up ‘position acquired’. That’s our signal to roll. We’re off!

2 Not long after leaving the station we are sucked into the countryside and there we hop onto the historic Old Coach Road. The road is so named because before the north and south sections of the main trunk line were linked up over some tough terrain, horse-drawn carriages transferred passengers across the rail-less gap between awaiting trains. Today the old road takes cycles not coaches, and on the few unusual cobbled sections that remain, our tyres dance around enjoying a party of their own.

1. The tunnels of forest lead you along the Old Coach Road

2. The quaint Ohakune Railway Station which is still in use

3. On the old viaduct and

appreciating the new one beyond

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Central Plateau

Mountains to Sea

Increasing elevation brings better views over the verdant pastures of the King Country as we meander around the folds in the landscape along a forest edge. At times we pass through tunnels of tree canopy before returning to the forested fringes. It is a cracker of a day, but it is soon lost to us as the trail suddenly leaves the sunny countryside and dives into the deep dark depths of the forest. The gloom deepens even more as we ride past a trail junction and head straight into a ‘mole’ hole; the Hapuawhenua tunnel, like many hand-built main trunk railway tunnels of its time, is named after an animal. As we ride through this century-old portal we find it burrows in for a couple of hundred metres before abruptly terminating. Before us, at right angles to the tunnel, is a massive cutting carrying the open-aired modern railway line … we are confused! We later discovered that the old 4 tunnel and its approach was too low, winding and steep for modern locomotives. So a new cutting through the hillside was built, and the ‘mole-hole’ was carved in two by the current main trunk railway line. Back at the junction we continue through virgin rainforest, past a giant rimu, before descending the hillside to witness a magnificent engineering feat. Before us was not only one massive viaduct but two, both spanning the forested valley. Incredibly, the graceful century-old 286-metre curved steel lattice viaduct is part of the trail that majestically elevates us 45 metres above the valley floor. The ride is a cyclist’s dream come true. Seeing the sleepers that once bound the rails just builds our historical appreciation for the journey. The old viaduct consists of 688 tonnes of steel and tens of thousands of tonnes of timber all of which was hauled to the site by packhorses, and then installed by hand. No scaffolding was used here. Workers clambered up ladders from the stream to the deck! Surprisingly no fatalities occurred during construction. However, completion of the viaduct meant the death of the Old Coach Road as the railway was finally completed from north to south. Mirroring its predecessor is a modern engineering marvel, an equally elegant span of concrete columns taking trains 414 metres across the valley. This modern viaduct takes a more direct line than the old and can cope with the stresses of today’s heavier rolling stock. Seeing a train rumbling over the new viaduct, from the vantage point of the old, is impressive for those lucky enough to time it right. The new viaduct is

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a fitting replacement with its gentle curve mimicking the shape of its neighbouring elder. I enter a waypoint and take photos of the viaducts then steam on through the forest on the Old Coach Road. The ride is gentle and interesting as we pass old bush camps and reach a derelict steel viaduct where we enjoy a late lunch before reaching Horopito. While some cyclists continue onward, we elected to ride back the way we had come before saving the day’s data back in Ohakune. If day one was spectacularly easy, we knew tomorrow’s trail of slick clay and slip crossings would be more precarious. The storm clouds brewed as we sat and stewed. After an unsettled sleep we awoke to a blanket of cloud that had rolled in overnight shrouding the magic mountain. After travelling north to the Mangapurua track I’m back on the saddle. The ride is now on a 4WD track leading me into the wilderness. I’m alone today. My wife had the sense to know the damp and slippery trail probably wasn’t for her. I think she was right. This section starts with a climb on the forest edge, and after less than an hour I have gained 300 metres and lost a bit of a sweat. I tire just as the trail levels out, offering a view northward to the rugged ranges of the Whanganui National Park. Standing tall beside me is an ornately carved pou that appears to protect those who pass. Pedalling on I reach a hairpin corner at Mangapurua trig, 661 metres above the Tasman Sea. I am relieved because from here it is almost all downhill out to the coast. Before plunging seaward I turn and take in the surroundings. It feels like the middle of nowhere, but there’s a white pole nearby proudly flying our national flag. Beside the flag is a memorial with a map that shows the land parcels that were gifted to soldiers who had just returned from the Great War. The story of the early settlement here is bleak; before the land could be productive it had to be cleared. It must have been a hard and lonely slog trying to clear forest to improve one’s life in this jungle; so remote and just after the horrors of war too. Tough! A road was built; however, it was prone to regular impassable slips which, coupled with the marginal productivity of the land in the valley, led to the place eventually being abandoned. Little remains of all that hard work except for a few clearings and crumbling chimneys.

4. About to embark on the Old Coach Road 5. Day two started with a climb to the trig with brooding clouds overhead 6. This derelict viaduct was a perfect spot for lunch

OLD COACH RD

Tūroa to the Tasman Sea

BRIDGE TO NOWHERE

NORTH MOLE

WHANGANUI Taumarunui

National Park Mt Ruapehu

Raetihi

Ohakune

Pīpīriki

Cycle a journey of connected pathways navigating the Whanganui river

For more information and the latest on the trail head to mountainstoseanz mountainstosea.nz m2snz

WHANGANUI

Special Edition 2019

Central Plateau

Mountains to Sea

There are groups in kayaks, canoes and jet boats all enjoying Just behind the trail I take a short stroll to a shallow cave this stretch of river. Our jet boat driver helps me and a couple that once stored explosives for the road workers’ use. Beyond of others with our bikes, securing them to a rack on the is a lookout where, if cloud wasn’t hampering the view, I could back of the boat before we are loaded on and we pivot away gaze at the volcanic peaks of the Central Plateau. Aware of downstream. The river here is wide, swift, and a hue not the fresh slips and the greasiness of the trail after rain, I was dissimilar to that of my soiled bike. Once the boat is up and satisfied with the views and got underway to try and outpace planing we quickly negotiate the sweeping bends in the river’s the foreboding rain clouds. course, the driver stopping occasionally to show us points of From the trig the trail is down, my bike picking up pace as interest. While tired from today’s ride the wind in my hair I free wheeled with my new-found friend – gravity. I whip keeps me alert as the obligatory 360-degree spin marks our past some of the clearings that were made by the returning arrival at Pipiriki with a splash. This village is where the trail soldiers, and negotiate the impressive Battleship Bluff – an meets the road, a sealed route to Whanganui’s river mouth incised oxbow bend in the river where the trail is precariously which is oddly also called the ‘mole’. After saving the trip etched into the cliff. After crossing some narrow bridges, the data and switching off the GPS units I call it a day. Reunited trail itself narrows and deteriorates, painting my bike in mud with my partner, we head inside just as the weather rips in, in the process. Then suddenly I pop out of the forest at the rainwater tumbling just as we had – from Mountains to Sea. Bridge to Nowhere. ‘Nowhere’ on my ride is a paradox; coming out of the wilderness to reach this concrete span transfers me from quiet trail to tourist Mecca; a couple of boatloads This story featured in RV Travel lifestyle issue 73. of visitors are viewing this well-known structure. A jet boat driver casually greets me. He has been expecting me and my mud-all-over bike. I enter a waypoint and after Trail update taking a few photos trying to capture the futility and The trail will shortly have a new a cycle/walk bridge over the Whanganui River near beauty of the Bridge to Nowhere I descend to arrive Ūpokongaro which is a few kilometres upstream from Whanganui. Once the bridge is abruptly where the trail meets the swirling turbid waters. installed the trail will head down the western bank of the river through the city before Goodbye mudslinging trail, hello Whanganui River! reaching North Mole at the Tasman Sea. It is also hoped in due course that a trail I had arrived at our country’s longest navigable river. will have a dedicated path down from Turoa skifield to Ohakune rather than using the It must be rush hour. Before me, near the landing, are existing skifield access road. Check out the official trail website for the trail status on all sorts of watercraft warriors who are stopping off the various sections of the Mountains to Sea Trail. along the Whanganui River bank to view the bridge.

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Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

7 7. The Bridge to Nowhere was the riding finale

8. Bikes on boats and the start of the river journey

BRIDGE TO NOWHERE

MOUNTAINS TO THE SEA

“If you only have the chance to do one adventure ride this year, this is the North Island’s best”

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“If you only have the chance to do one adventure ride this year, this is the North Island’s best”

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• Jet Boat Tours • BTN Lodge • Canoeing

Central Plateau

Ohakune

Story + Photos Jane Dove Juneau

SETT IN STONE A walk through the North Island’s historic heartland reveals an ancient road-building technique used in Roman times

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hakune Old Coach Road is part of the Mountains to Sea Cycle Trail. The old railroad town of Ohakune sits among rolling green farmland in the centre of the North Island. Today it is better known as a ski town for the Turoa Ski Area, or as the carrot-growing capital of New Zealand. Now a link to the past, the Old Coach Road, is creating a new fun reason for people to visit Ohakune to either cycle or walk the track. Originally a bridle track and then a dray road, in the early 1900s Ohakune’s Old Coach Road was upgraded to connect the north and south sections of the as-yet-incomplete Main Trunk Rail Line, between Ohakune and Raurimu. The 38km section of road was used from 1906 to 1908, with passengers disembarking one train to travel along the road by horse and coach to the other train, during their three-day journey between Auckland and Wellington. This enabled the building of the Hapuawhenua and Taonui Viaducts so the rail link could be completed. The large Hapuawhenua Viaduct was built in just 10 months and was considered one of the most amazing feats of engineering for its time. The 15km hike over the Old Coach Road sounded interesting, so our Oakura walking group choose Ohakune as the base for a series of hikes in November. The town sits near the entrance of Tongariro National Park and offers a range of additional walk options depending on your experience and fitness. Over the years I had often stayed in Ohakune during the winter, enjoying the variety of ski terrains on the slopes of Mt Ruapehu.

Ohakune is very busy on winter weekends, and when my youngest son was ski racing with Ruapehu Snow Sports I spent many hours on the phone or the internet trying to book a place to stay. Then I noticed a number of ski club lodges around town. So once I figured out how ski clubs worked, and found that anyone could join, we signed up with Aorangi Ski Club. Ski clubs offer an affordable, friendly way to stay in Ohakune during the busy winter season and are a great way to meet interesting people with a wide range of careers. The lodge is near the Junction in Ohakune with views up to Mt Ruapehu on a clear day. It sleeps 24 so there are plenty of beds to choose from for our group of eight. Once set up in the lodge, groceries unloaded and beverages chilling, we head out on an orientation walk around town. The crisp mountain air reminds us to slip on an extra layer and a shell jacket in case of rain. Down at the Junction we walk across the road and over the Mangawhero River. A riverside walkway wanders down beside the rushing mountain stream, across a swingbridge and on down to town where it links with the Jubilee Walkway. As we set off at a fast pace the chatter is akin to a bunch of school kids on a trip. We pass some colourful rhododendrons in flower – they seem to like the colder climate here - and skirt along the west side of town where the trail arrives at a vegetable adventure park for little kids and, as it turns out, for big kids as well. A carrot car, oversize swedes and parsnips are placed around the park, culminating in a huge carrot, the traditional Ohakune totem.

1. The remains of the

sett road is still evident – a road-building technique from Roman times 2. Farmland near Ohakune has great views of Mt Ruapehu

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Central Plateau

Ohakune The free-draining soils and cool climate make Ohakune ideal for vegetable production, especially carrots. Many of the early growers were Chinese and they had to clear the land of bush before they could start growing. Early production began with cabbages and cauliflowers followed by parsnips, carrots and potatoes. The arrival of bulldozers in the thirties made land clearing easier. During World War II large volumes of vegetables were sent to troops in the Pacific. Today most of the North Island’s carrots, parsnips, brussel sprouts and washed potatoes are produced in Ohakune. Vegetables are also exported Asia and the Pacific Islands. Across town we visit one of two sports shops offering transport to Horopito, the northern end of Ohakune Old Coach Road. The following morning they are busy as they have a group of 40 school kids from Wanganui renting bikes to ride the trail. We try the operator across the road, Vertigo Adventure Centre/Mountain Bike Station. Yes, they can help us out, and we arrange to catch the minibus half an hour after the school group so we will be clear of the 40 kids. Piles of old cars stretch over 15 acres of paddocks at Horopito. Bill Cole and his family have collected the vehicles over 60 years. Here you’ll find rare Bedford, Austin, Singer and Chrysler models. Horopito Motors car yard is often called Smash Palace after it featured in a movie of the same name. Bruno Lawrence starred in the Roger Donaldson-directed movie about a disgruntled race-car driver who sets out to get his daughter back after the break up of his marriage.

3. Just down from Aorangi Lodge is a view of the Junction and Mt Ruapehu 4. Open views at the Ohakune end of Old Coach Road. (L-R) Sandy, Marion, Helen, Rebecca, Denise, Di, Jane and Clare in front

5. The steel structure remnants of old Taonui Viaduct

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Ohakune

6. The old Hapuawhenua Viaduct was the site of the world’s first commercial bungee jump 7. The Waitonga Falls

6 The yard was used as a movie set. “The piles of old cars would be perfect for a fashion shoot,” I say, with ideas bounding around in my head of models draped over the cars. No time for that today as we have a 15km walk ahead. Our driver gives us an overview of the Old Coach Road and a map each, then takes the obligatory photo of the group at the start of the track. Jen is riding the track as she’d recently had knee surgery. It certainly looked a fun option to ride. We start off down a gravel road across rolling farmland. “Look ahead,” someone says. In the distance we see the last of the school group on their bikes not far ahead of us. Once we cross into the Tongariro National Park the vegetation changes. A cluster of large mountain cabbage trees dot the hillside as we walk towards the ruins of the old Taonui Viaduct. The rusty red steel viaduct stretches across the valley like a tall spidery caterpillar. It must have been quite a feat of engineering to build in such a remote

area in 1908. As testament to its design it remained in use until 1987 when the new Taonui Viaduct opened. The track winds up though tall native bush to a high point. We hear the drama before we see it; a young cyclist is having a meltdown and a teacher is calmly listening to his story. It is quite the job shepherding the large group of school children through this track. Just up the path the rest of the kids are scattered around eating sandwiches. We walk by. We are not far down the track when we hear cyclists behind us. “Bikes,” I shout out as we scatter to the side of the track to let the bikes past. A few minutes later someone else yells “bikes” and another group passes. And so it goes on until 30 or so kids and parents pass us. But riding uphill is hard when you are small and soon we pass some of the riders only to be overtaken again on a downhill section. Some of the children are confident on the bikes while others struggle on the tricky sections of the track.

A FORGOTTEN HIGHWAY FILLED WITH HIDDEN GEMS The scenic way to get to Taranaki, the Forgotten World Highway passes through the Republic of Whangamomona towards a mythical mountain. It’s a great drive, and an even better bike ride, with much to stop and explore along the way and more to discover when you get to Taranaki. For everything you need head to www.taranaki.info

Tangarakau Gorge, Forgotten World Highway. Photo: Rob Tucker.

Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

7 Special Edition 2019

Central Plateau

Ohakune

A bunch of kids are standing on a corner looking down into the bush. This doesn’t look good. At the bottom of a steep bank I see a bike. A young girl is struggling back up the hill with her backpack. “Is she OK?” I ask the group. “Yes,” they chorus back. Apparently the young rider ditched her bike when she got to the sharp corner. She stayed on the trail and her bike plunged down the bank with her bag. Lucky escape. This section of the trail is narrow and looks trickier to ride as we wind down to the old Hapuawhenua Viaduct where we stop to eat lunch. “It may be mentioned that during the nine weeks following the 9th of August, 1907 there were only five days without rain.” This comment was from F W Furkert, resident Engineer-in-Charge of the viaduct construction where hundreds of people were working. The work was hard, noisy and dangerous. The men worked in some of the coldest and wettest conditions in the North Island. Twenty men died at the camp when their tents were buried in a severe snowstorm. After the viaduct was decommissioned in the late 1980s a boardwalk was installed and it was the site for the first commercial bungee operation in the world. The viaduct has since been restored to current safety regulations and has a Category I rating with the Historic Place Trust. I am fascinated with the sections of cobblestone road. It seems ironic that here, deep in New Zealand’s heartland, far up on a forested hillside is a hand-formed stone road rather like you would find in an Italian village. The technique used to form the road dates back to Roman times, utilising stone setts to construct a rough cobblestone road. “Setts were generally stone, often granite, rectangular in shape with a convex top. They were laid across the width of the road and held together by boundary stones.” The rough surface of the road provided traction for the horses on the steep sections. Without paving, the road would have

8. The boardwalk to the Waitonga Falls crosses tussock and tarns

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been knee-deep mud for most of the year. On a bike the setts make for a bumpy ride – good workout for your arms. It was the same for the coaches in the 1900s. “About a dozen board our coach, and with five good horses—three in the lead—we are soon rattling along over a good service road which is metalled [using material] from quarries situated at convenient spots along the route. The metal is coarse in places and one jocular passenger estimated 433 bumps in the first quarter of an hour, and then declared his inability to keep further tally!” –excerpt from a Wanganui Herald article in 1908. The last couple of kilometres along Old Station Road seem long and I am pleased to arrive back at the lodge for a sit down and a cold beer. I would like to go back and ride the track now, but not at the same time as a large group. The next day we drive up the mountain road towards Turoa Ski Area to the Round the Mountain trail head. We are walking to Waitonga Falls and up to Blyth Hut. The start of the Round the Mountain Track is a wide well-maintained trail to the Waitonga Falls. Beyond the falls it turns into a mountain hiking track with stream crossings and tangled tree roots, and is generally trickier to negotiate. Two of our group with previous leg injuries wisely turn back at the waterfall. This hike is a nice contrast to the Old Coach Road as we are up in an alpine environment. As we walk higher the mountain beech trees shorten and we travel through subalpine scrub and grassland. The last section up to the hut travels up across packed scree. Blyth Hut sits on the original track opened in 1910 from Ohakune, 14.5km up to the slopes of Mt Ruapehu. The first hut on the track was opened in 1922 and was named Blyth Hut in 1941 after Joe Blyth, a local headmaster who had been instrumental in building and maintaining the Ohakune Mountain Track. Over the years Blyth, an outdoor enthusiast, led many

parties to the mountain and recorded 147 climbs to the summit. Our walk seems short and paltry in comparison to the adventures of the early explorers. We only walk a short distance of the Blyth Track, which is not maintained above the hut. The lower section of the Old Blyth Track starts further down the Ohakune Mountain Road. After our two walks I have every respect for the fitness of people in the early 1900s. Not only because they were great adventurers – like Blyth climbing Mt Ruapehu 147

times – but also because of what they accomplished; building a road of stone setts, huge viaducts and linking the Main Trunk Rail Line under difficult conditions. Quite an achievement. It has been interesting delving into the history of Ohakune, once a busy railroad town. Reviving the historic Old Coach Road as a bike- and walking path has breathed life into the heartland by providing another activity for visitors in the off-season to skiing/snowboarding.

92 Clyde Street, Ohakune ph. 06 385 9498 e. info@snowhaven.co.nz www.snowhaven.co.nz

This story featured in NZToday issue 85.

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Special Edition 2019

Taranaki

Pouakai Crossing

Story + Photos Jane Dove Juneau

POUAKAI TREASURES Voted No 2 region in the world to visit last year by a popular guidebook, Taranaki has been wowing international visitors with the Pouakai Crossing hike and Pukeiti’s new Rainforest Centre

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he foothills of Mt Taranaki were formed by the Pouakai and Kaitake ranges, remnants of a large volcano. They lie to the north of the symmetrically shaped volcano that is Mt Taranaki. Both ranges were the source of kai (food) for local Māori a factor reflected in their names. Pouakai means the pillar or source of food and Kaitake, the source or abundance of food that is grown on its slopes. Usually Mt Taranaki steals the limelight, appearing mysteriously out of the cloud in the early morning or evening, wowing visitors with its perfect shape, but now the lower Pouakai ranges are having their time in the limelight. Local and international attention is focused on two aspects of the Pouakais: the development of Pukeiti’s new Rainforest Centre in the world-renowned rhododendron gardens, and the 19-kilometre Pouakai Crossing being called the country’s newest ‘great walk’. The Rainforest Centre is at the base of the Pouakais and features multi-media interpretation areas, a new function space, and direct access to covered areas housing the largest public display of vireya rhododendrons in the world. It also offers panoramic views of the rainforest garden and coast, and easy access to a treetop lookout over Pukeiti’s famed waterwheel. Not far around the ranges from Pukeiti as a tui flies, is the trail leading up to the Pouakai Hut and the last leg of the Pouakai Crossing. The usual route for the crossing is from North Egmont to Holly Hut, then across the Ahukawakawa wetlands to Pouakai Tarns, down to Pouakai Hut and finishing at the road end at Mangorei Road. The challenging one-day walk is not for the fainthearted.

THE RAINFOREST CENTRE I was invited to the opening of the new Rainforest Centre at Pukeiti that was to be opened by the Governor-General, Dame Patsy Reddy. As I wound around the tight narrow road on the Okato side of Pukeiti, the mist swirled down from the mountain. The road is so narrow in places you can barely pass another car. Overhanging trees towered over the road and I carefully negotiated the last few tight corners to arrive at Pukeiti. The drive in from the northern New Plymouth end is easier as the road is wider. The entrance to the new centre is impressive. It is an open-ended structure with a glassed gable roof. Three carvings, created by mastercarver Rangi Bailey, line the entryway: Papatuanuku (earthmother), Ranginui (skyfather) and Tane Mahuta (guardian of the forest). Guests filled the interpretation area ready for the arrival of Dame Patsy Reddy. I took a quick walk along the new aerial walkway in the company of the Argentinian Ambassador who had come along to the opening. He was in town for the Puma rugby game against the All Blacks. He seemed suitably impressed as the New Plymouth Mayor Neil Holdom gave him a rundown on the gardens with lots of arm waving. There was a sudden scurry of people indicating the Governor-General had arrived. Under a bevy of umbrellas Dame Patsy walked in with husband David, along with a Naval escort and entourage. They stopped to listen to the haunting welcome from the Taranaki Iwi. The calls rang out into the chilly mountain air and seemed to echo back from the surrounding forest. Soon everyone was seated and the ceremony began. Pukeiti is one of three gardens managed by the Taranaki Regional Council, and the new Rainforest Centre represents a significant investment by the Taranaki Community. “We’ve created opportunities for people to visit regardless of the weather and time of year, and experience the wonderful gardens out of the rain and under a roof, and to take in the stories of Pukeiti,” said the Taranaki Regional Council Chairman, David MacLeod. “You could not ask for a more magnificent setting and I am not surprised that you get nearly 30,000 visitors a year,” said Dame Patsy Reddy.

MacLeod paid tribute at the opening ceremony to the Taranaki Iwi, and to the Pukeiti Rhododendron Trust, whose members established the garden in 1950 and developed its collection until 2010, when the Taranaki Regional Council assumed ownership and management on behalf of the people of the region. “The Trust is still an important part of Pukeiti today, supporting the Council in its work. And material from some of the Trust’s original structures has been put to new uses in the Rainforest Centre. The Trust’s efforts live on, in more ways than one,” MacLeod said. “One way or another, the magic of this place has been important to generations of Taranaki people. The new Rainforest Centre and associated developments will ensure the magic continues and can be appreciated.” The Rainforest Centre was declared open and Dame Patsy’s next job was to plant a tree to commemorate the opening. She managed this with a big smile and was taken on an escorted tour of the new walkway. Over the years I have spent many hours wandering the paths through the garden at Pukeiti. The rainforest setting, free-draining volcanic soil, and mountain air provide a microclimate for a wide range of plants that complement the extensive rhododendron and azalea collection. It is easy to get lost for hours taking photographs in the tranquil gardens, among the colourful rhododendrons planted alongside native rimu and totara trees. The gardens are named after Pukeiti a small young volcanic cone lying to the west of the main ranges. They are at 400 metres above sea level on the edge of Egmont National Park. Sunshine hours are good, and as alluded by the name ‘rainforest garden’, there is plenty of rain – on average, four metres a year fall at Pukeiti and it is not unknown to have 250mm in a day. Several mountain streams flow down through the gardens from higher in the ranges. Although Pukeiti was milled in the early 1900s, it has regenerated to native forest again. In this forest setting a woodland garden has been created with over 1100 specimens of the rhododendron genus. The collection includes sub-tropical Vireyas which are protected from heavy rain and cold as part of the rainforest walkway. Many other trees and shrubs also contribute to the collection such as magnolia, camellia, daphne, along with bulbs and herbaceous plants. Douglas Cook, a Gisborne farmer, founded the Pukeiti Rhododendron Trust in 1951. He discovered Pukeiti was a perfect climate to grow rhododendrons and persuaded a group of like-minded people to purchase the property and develop the gardens. Volunteers toiled for years to tame the regenerating mix of bush, gorse and blackberry. Gradually tracks were grassed, planting beds made, bridges built over rivers, a lodge was built, and an old waterwheel was erected on a stream to supply water and power.

2 1. The mysterious Mt Taranaki reflected in the Pouakai Tarns 2. The light at Pukeiti is crystal clear in the springtime Special Edition 2019

Taranaki

Pouakai It is thanks to the vision of these hardworking members under the guidance of Cook that we have the gardens today. It is a new era now under the stewardship of the Taranaki Regional Council who have the resources to open the garden free to the public and are in the process of carrying out an extensive upgrade of the facilities and garden. POUAKAI CROSSING The Pouakai Circuit is a three-day walk with overnight stays at Holly Hut and Pouakai Hut. But the success of the Tongariro Alpine Crossing and the high volume of people hiking that track, led to the idea of reinventing the Pouakai Circuit into a one-day hike that would attract hikers to Taranaki and help alleviate the pressure on the Tongariro Crossing. The crossing is a challenging day hike and work is needed on the track through the Ahukawakawa swamp because it can become very muddy during wet periods. In the past, a few hundred people a year have hiked the track, but since it featured in the Lonely Planet travel guide, visitor numbers have increased substantially. In 2017 the guidebook named Taranaki as its No 2 region in the world to visit. It declared the walk an “unmissable experience”, which is “arguably every bit as scenic as its rival [the Tongariro Alpine Crossing]”. The Department of Conservation estimated that about 3500 people completed the crossing in 2016 and another 4000 did the lower third of the walk from Mangorei Road to the Pouakai Hut. In May 2017 the government announced a $3.4 million investment in the Pouakai Crossing which would include upgrading existing tracks, adding new bridges, toilets and interpretation. The work is expected to be completed over the next three years. I have hiked from Mangorei Road end up to the Pouakai Hut and on

Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

3. Rhododendrons line the

paths through the garden at Pukeiti 4. The new Rainforest Centre at Pukeiti 5. International travellers hike down to the Pouakai Hut 6. One of the many family portraits I shot while waiting for the cloud to clear

5 to the Pouakai Tarns, several times. Last February I took advantage of a nice spell of weather to hike up to the tarns, my goal being to capture the very popular image of Mt Taranaki reflected in the tarns.  My memory of the hike from my last visit was endless high steps up over tree roots – challenging when you are on the short end of the height spectrum. However, I was pleasantly surprised this time as there has been a huge project to install boardwalk up to the Pouakai Hut and the result is nice even steps, perfect for people of all sizes. The hike travels up through native forest for an hour or so before coming out on a ridge with alpine scrub. From here, above the circular tree-line of Egmont National Park, you can see for miles up the coast past New Plymouth. I reached the Pouakai Hut in about one hour 45 minutes and my appetite was peaking. I sat down on the deck outside the hut with a number of other people, including a mother and young baby, to eat lunch. In fact the hut was busy with hikers both local and foreign, some eating lunch, others arriving and leaving. Continuing up past the hut, the track forks left down to the Pouakai Tarns and right to continue the Pouakai Crossing to Holly Hut across the Ahukawakawa wetlands. I met some tired-looking hikers who were doing the crossing and were pleased to see the sign to Pouakai Hut. I wandered out on the ridge to take in the view across a meadow dotted with mountain daisies to Mt Taranaki. Lush vegetation of shrubs in a pallet of greens, rolled down the hillsides with dark native forest in the distance. On top of Mt Taranaki a puffy cloud wafted around the summit. The boardwalk track, lined with lush native grasses, followed the ridgeline down to the tarns. People seemed surprised at the size of the tarns – “They’re so small,” I heard several hikers comment. The many online photographs showing Mt Taranaki reflected perfectly in the tarns, often give the impression the tarns are a big lake. My perfect photograph encountered a meteorological issue – there was a large cloud hovering around the summit of Mt Taranaki. Typical. I waited around the tarns watching a steady flow of day hikers arrive and pose for selfies. I could have made good coin if I’d charged each time someone asked me to take their photograph in this iconic place. Instead I decided to shoot the hikers posing for their photographs as I waited for the cloud to move. By late afternoon the colour was richer and the cloud lifted more.  I decided I liked the mystery of a little cloud over the top of Mt Taranaki; the many cloudy days where Mt Taranaki hides, far outnumber the clear days so I was thankful I could see most of the mountain. I started the hike back down the boardwalk and the thousands of steps back to my car. My goal is to complete the Pouakai Crossing in the future either as a day hike, or with an overnight stay at Holly Hut or Pouakai Hut. I like the idea of the overnight stay as it allows more time to enjoy the track and take photographs, but the downside is you have to carry more gear. Fortunately these days, the range of light hiking sleeping bags, packs

and stoves makes a big difference to the experience. As an interesting and safer alternative to hiking to the summit of Mt Taranaki, the 19-kilometre Pouakai Crossing is a good option, or the shorter day hike to the Pouakai Tarns. As with any hike in a mountain environment the weather can be changeable so you need to be well equipped with layers of warm clothing, wet-weather gear and food/ drink. Check for the latest trail information on the DOC website or at the North Egmont Visitors Centre, or New Plymouth i-SITE. For those not into hiking, or to wind down after your hike, a stroll around Pukeiti Rainforest Centre and Gardens is a must. The gardens are stunning in spring when the rhododendrons and azaleas are in bloom with bright splashes of pinks, reds, purples and whites among the native rainforest. For children there is the Treehouse Trail adventure challenge, a free self-guided trail through the garden using an activity satchel with hidden facts and challenges. Mobility vehicle tours are available for those who are not able to walk around the gardens. The Founders Café is open seven days for lunch, coffee and snacks. There is even a great seven-kilometre day hike up to the Pukeiti summit – a very pleasant walk though rainforest, along a grassy trail up to the top. This story featured in NZToday issue 78.

6 More info

For events at Pukeiti or more information visit: trc.govt.nz/ gardens/pukeiti/ For information on Pouakai Crossing visit the DOC website, or for a guided tour there is a New Plymouth guide company, Top Guides, that has a wealth of experience guiding in Taranaki. topguides.co.nz Special Edition 2019

Hawke’s Bay

Lake Waikaremoana

Story + Photos Jane Dove Juneau

WAIKAREMOANA

THE SEA OF RIPPLING WATERS From the west, the narrow winding gravel road into Te Urewera Forest takes us to a different world. Home of the Tūhoe people – the children of the mist – the rainforest country has a sense of quiet mystery

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he trail through the beech forest stretches ahead of us. Sunlight filters through the trees creating a magic wonderland of light and patterns. I stop many times to admire the work of nature, looking across at green treetops and large dark trunks towering skywards. At the top of the trail is a pristine lake, with native forest growing to the water’s edge. Lake Waikareiti is revered by the Tūhoe Tangata whenua (people of the land) for its healing properties. Te Urewera Forest lies on the east coast of central North Island. The Urewera region commands respect for its tumultuous yet fiercely independent history. New Zealand’s colonial government carried out a bitter campaign against Tūhoe in their search for the Māori leader/warrior Te Kooti between 1869 and 1872. Land was burned, people were imprisoned and killed, and their cultivation, stock and homes destroyed. Te Kooti’s whereabouts were never revealed and he escaped to the King Country. Early afternoon we leave Whirinaki Forest Park, driving the windy gravel road to Lake Waikaremoana. Although it’s only 101km from Murupara to Waikaremoana, two hours direct, the road is narrow and slow, and with stops can take several hours. We pass a few scattered houses in the sleepy Tūhoe settlement of Ruatahuna. The settlement is known for its association with the spiritual leaders, Te Kooti and later, Rua Kēnana. The Te Whai-a-teMotu meetinghouse was built here in 1888 by the Tūhoe people to honour the leadership of Te Kooti. Rua Kēnana was a Māori prophet, faith healer

and land-rights activist. He established a religious community in 1907 beyond Ruatahuna at the base of the sacred mountain, Maungapōhatu (1,366 metres). Many Tūhoe saw Rua as the symbol of a new era in which their lost lands would be returned, but unfortunately this was not to be. His pacifist beliefs and opposition to conscription during the First World War led to the Government accusing him of sedition. In 1916 in a show of force, armed constables were sent to arrest him. Two Māori including Rua’s son were killed, and Rua was arrested. In one of the longest Supreme Court trials in New

1. The moody lake swirls below Jane on the Panekire Bluffs

2. Te Urewera is the largest forest park in the North Island

3. We round the Waihirere Bluff to a spectacular view of Waikaremoana

3 Special Edition 2019

Hawke’s Bay

Lake Waikaremoana

4 Zealand’s history, he was found not guilty of sedition, but guilty of resisting arrest and sentenced to one year’s hard labour, followed by 18 months’ imprisonment. From his release in 1918 until his death in 1937, Rua remained an important figure among Tūhoe, engaging in extensive efforts to provide for their economic security. New Zealand director Vincent Ward made a film in 1978, In Spring One Plants Alone, about 80-year old Puhi, who lived with her schizophrenic son in the isolated Urewera. Ward revisited this subject with his film Rain of the Children where he recreated the Tūhoe story of Rua Kēnana, and the police raid on Maungapōhatu. It’s a very moving film with imagined historical footage, his own early footage of Puhi and contemporary interviews with Tūhoe descendants. The haunting story helps us relate to the history of this beautiful and remote area, Te Urewera. Images from the films drift through my mind as we leave Ruatahuna. Suddenly, a young guy comes blasting around a corner on a large motocross bike with hair flying, shirt open, wearing stubbies and gumboots. He’s on the wrong side of the road heading straight for us. In a last minute tussle with the bike, the young rider pulls onto his side of the road. A thousand thank-yous to whichever power saved us all from a nasty mishap. The wild-child roars off down the road with one less of his nine lives! We follow a peaceful river valley with steep bush hillsides, black in shadow in the contrasty afternoon light. The stream is a ribbon of dancing water shining in the sunlight. Lured by the promise of a cool swim, we stop and dive into a deep pool. I keep away from the river bank just in case a hungry eel is lingering nearby. Rick assumes a catlike pose, warming himself in the afternoon sun. We would love to linger but there are many more crooked miles to drive before Waikaremoana. The narrow road follows a ridge high onto a saddle, and I hope for a glimpse of the lake. By now the driver is a little crusty. Luckily the few cars we meet are also travelling cautiously. 96

Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

A ute driver flashes his headlights at us - a short distance down the road we discover a trio of wild horses grazing quietly on the side of the road. They are a surprising sight in this remote section of forest. Eventually we round a corner on a bluff and we’re confronted with the view of a rich blue lake surrounded with dark green forest. “Stop the car,” I yell. Rick squeezes off the road on the Waihirere Bluff, and I leap out to take in the spectacular view out over the lake. On my previous visits to Waikaremoana the lake had been shrouded in mist. I’m surprised how bright and colourful it is in the afternoon sun. In the distance the Panekire Bluffs tower over the lake. Directly below me the black outline of a beech tree is silhouetted in silver light. A little further down the road we stop at a lookout to see the Mokau Falls dropping 37 metres below the road bridge. Te Urewera rainforest has a number of tumbling waterfalls, many easily accessible and mesmerising to watch. It’s late afternoon when we arrive at the Waikaremoana Holiday Park. Nestled on the lakeshore, the campground has cabins, tourist flats and backpacker accommodation. We set up our tent overlooking a quiet arm of the lake not far from a boat ramp. Rick realises the pointy-looking dark shape in the water is an upside down swan, when it suddenly morphs into a long neck swan. And I see that the slalom course of black dots on the road into the campground, are sleeping ducks, unfazed by cars. Opposite the Te Urewera Visitor Centre is the Hinerau Walk, an easy stroll through silver and red beech trees, past three waterfalls collectively known as the Aniwaniwa Falls. Water flows down the steps of the delicate Bridal Veil Falls, framed by lush green forest. Below me the Momahaki and Aniwaniwa Falls thunder into a large pool popular with trout fishermen. According to Māori legend the falls are the tears of Hinerau, a Ngāi Tūhoe woman of high rank famed for her beauty. Beyond the visitors centre up Aniwaniwa Road are the impressive Papakorito Falls, just a short walk from the road.

After the Hinerau Walk, we start up the beech forest trail to Lake Waikareiti. The trail is well worn by visitors, as it’s an easy day-hike, with a well-formed, gradual uphill track to the clear waters of Waikareiti. The day is hot and the cool water looks inviting, so we enjoy a refreshing swim in the forest-lined lake. Geologists surmise the lake was formed after a colossal landslide about 25,000 years ago. Hollows that formed after the slide became wetlands and lakes, the largest of which is Waikareiti. Because of the lush vegetation and reduced predator numbers, this area is a bird paradise with kākā (parrot), yellow crowned kākāriki (parakeet), tūī, kererū (wood pigeon) along with small birds such as totouwai (North Island robin), miromiro (tomtit), fantail and tītipounamu (rifleman). Waikareiti was a place of refuge for Tūhoe women and children in times of battle at Waikaremoana. Old stories tell of hunting parties and war parties stopping here to snare waterfowl. Rahui Island is the largest of six islands within Lake Waikareiti, and contains its own small lake believed to be sacred. The islands, because of their pristine state, are of special scientific interest. We sit in the sun by the lake and are joined by group of travellers. A beautiful young German girl in love with an Indian boy she met in Perth, is travelling with a girl from the Bavarian Black Forest and a free spirited arborist out of Napier. They breeze around the lake full of laughter and joy, plunging into the glassy water with delight. Many visitors to Waikaremoana come to hike around the shores of the large lake, as it’s one of the nine New Zealand Great Walks. The four-day hike is through pristine rainforest, wetlands, regenerating shrubland and a magical ‘goblin forest.’ As we haven’t planned to hike the Great Walk, we decide to hike a section of the trail, the first day’s walk from Onepoto up to the Panekire Bluffs. Tree roots line the trail as we start our walk uphill through stands of tall red beech trees. Dry leaves cover the trail. We soon catch glimpses of the lake far below. We pass a number of hikers slogging uphill with heavy looking packs. “Too much PlayStation,” comments one father as his daughter struggles uphill. Her brothers are way ahead of her, one with a small ghetto-blaster playing as he strides uphill. It seems an incongruous sound in the forest. This family is staying a night on the Great Walk then getting picked up by water taxi. The water taxi service operates for those who want to get dropped off around the lake or use the pack transfer service to move packs from hut to hut. We reach a large slab of overhanging rock on the Panekire Bluffs perched high over the lake. The views down to the moody lake are impressive. The steely-coloured lake covers a large expanse, with various islands and inlets and not a building in sight. As we walk further, a misty rain shower covers the foliage. In the soft light the ferns glow a vibrant green and the forest trees become a tangle of twisting branches. It doesn’t take much imagination to feel ‘spirits’ from the past wafting in the breeze and brushing by my bare legs. We wander along the ridge to a high point chatting with another friendly young German girl who also happens to be from the Black Forest. She loves New Zealand and has completed most of the Great

WAIKAREMOANA HOLIDAY PARK

8 Walks. I test the weight of her pack and it’s surprisingly light. She’s hiking light, yet has all the essentials, bar a stove. No hot food for her for a few days unless she befriends someone with a stove. We part company with her. She heads on to the Panekire Hut and we go striding back downhill to Onepoto. The moon is shining through the leaves of the beech trees as we relax for the evening by the lake. Now and then, a chorus of croaking frogs interrupts the otherwise silent, peaceful evening. The lapping lake begs to be explored by boat. That’ll have to wait until another visit. The pristine rainforest of Te Urewera is magical. The Great Walk around the lake is for the energetic, but alternatively there are many beautiful short rainforest walks to discover, along with boating and trout fishing. Waikaremoana is a place to linger and refresh your body and soul. This story featured in NZToday issue 68.

4. The lazy afternoon sun

sinks over Lake Waikaremoana

5. Bridal Veil Falls tumble

down a series of natural steps

The only accommodation on the shores of Lake Waikaremoana General Store Petrol • Diesel • Fishing supplies

SH 38, Lake Waikaremoana, Te Urewera P: 06 837 3826 E: waikaremoanahp@doc.govt.nz www.waikaremoana.info Special Edition 2019

Hawke’s Bay

Cycle Trails

Story + Photos Paul Rush

LAND OF A HUNDRED PATHWAYS Visitors to Hawke’s Bay can enjoy a great variety of cycling trails over the Heretaunga Plains, writes Paul Rush

Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

‘G

rape therapy is better than group therapy’ is the bold slogan on a vineyard sign that catches my eye on my first Wineries Mooch as part of the new network of Hawke’s Bay Cycling Trails. The ‘Mooch’ is a fascinating and eminently sociable way to explore the wine-growing areas of the Bridge Pa Triangle, Ngatarawa and Gimblett Gravels areas of the expansive Heretaunga Plains. I’ve parked my camper in Roy’s Hill Reserve in Fernhill and hit the roadside trail at 10am (when the cellar doors open) on my GT full-suspension mountain bike, barrelling along State Highway 50 and into Ngatarawa Road. There’s a variety of cellar doors and vineyard cafes to choose from – at least 13 within 20km of each other. I mosey into Unison Vineyard and sample one of the exceptional red wines this area produces. Then

visit Trinity Hill to sample some more examples of traditional wine varieties. By stretching my legs a little harder I make my way up Maraekakaho Road to the iconic Sileni Estates Winery for a brief tasting, before retracing my route to Ash Ridge for lunch. The open-air Ash Ridge café is nestled amongst orderly rows of vines, and bathed in the intense Hawke’s Bay sunshine. My chicken and brie panini is good value, and a glass of chardonnay helps me to relax and enjoy the ambience of the vineyard setting. Phil Wilcock of On Yer Bike winery tours is based at Ash Ridge and offers bike hire, packed lunches and full vehicle support when his clients run out of puff on the trail. This doesn’t happen too often, he explains, as the terrain is perfectly flat and the riding is easy around the vineyards, olive groves, horse studs, orchards and farms that make up this premium wine-growing area.

Special Edition 2019

Hawke’s Bay

Heretaunga Plains

1 Returning to Napier city, I don’t have to look far for the next most popular ride on the Hawke’s Bay Cycle Trails. Marine Parade is  absolutely buzzing with walkers, runners, dog lovers and bikers all beaming with smiles and offering cheerful greetings as they pass by in a blur. Hopping on my bike, I merge seamlessly with the passing parade, then suddenly realise I’m out of place on a mountain bike, dressed in modern sports attire. One hundred cyclists are pedalling furiously on vintage cycles, tandems and tricycles, all dressed in casual wear from the 1920s and 1930s. A grey-bearded gentleman called Colin is nonchalantly cruising in the vanguard on a penny farthing that was specially built for him. From his lofty perch he tells me he has ridden the bike a staggering 5000 kilometres. It dawns on me that I’m being swept along the coastal pathway with the masses celebrating Tremains Art Deco weekend. Quite by chance I have set out on the celebrated Water Ride at precisely the same time

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as the Saturday festival ride. At Ahuriri, the joyful company in period costumes disperse to slake their thirsts at Café Nosh, Port O’ Call,  Shed 2 and Mexi Mama. Some dedicated cyclists push on to the Snapper Café at Bay View, the northernmost point on the Water Ride. I meet Jenny Ryan of Takaro Trails in Ahuriri, who runs multi-day guided cycle tours throughout the province. Jenny tells me the trails were born out of a local vision for a seaside pathway for Napier. She encourages me to exercise a little more pedal power and explore the Puketapu Ramble, a more adventurous extension to the coastal Water Ride. The 17km trail winds through lovely rolling hills in the backblocks near Taradale. It runs parallel to the Tutaekuri River and forms a loop between bridges. I stop frequently to soak up the atmosphere in the native bush sections and to explore the picturesque river pools. There’s a regular ritual of dismounting and shuffling through the frequent stop-bank gates. The beauty of this trail is that it’s well shaded in the bush sections, giving a welcome respite from the unrelenting Hawke’s Bay heat. As the last kilometres roll under my knobbly tyres I start to see glasses of cold amber liquid before my eyes. That’s only partly a mirage, as the final destination on this ride is the Puketapu Tavern – the locals call this cycleway The Pub Run. Returning to Marine Parade I catch up with Brian Fisher of Fishbike, whose bike hire shop is right on the waterfront. Brian explains that the Hawke’s Bay trails are the closest to the European form of cycling holidays you can find in New Zealand. The paths are wide, smooth and generally flat, and cycling is popular here as an everyday activity. The Heretaunga Plains are known in Māori lore as Heretaunga Ararau, or The Land of a Hundred Pathways. The name is particularly apt now locals have developed off-road cycleways

which criss-cross the plains, linking Napier, Hastings and Havelock North. In order to experience the joyous freedom of these country trails, all you need to do is visit the Napier or Hastings i-SITES to pick up the relevant maps and brochures. Next morning I leave my camper at the Clive public carpark where there’s free overnight parking for motorhomes, and ride down the coast to the East Clive wetlands and up the Tukituki River cycleway to the Tandem Café, which serves as a refreshment hub for the Landscapes Ride. This trail hugs the Tukituki riverbank near Havelock North. Here, I find an interesting combination of

off-road trails and quiet country roads with smooth lime sand paths that are kind and gentle to mountain bikes. The reflective track seems to twinkle under the sun directly overhead, which makes sunglasses an essential item. From the elevation of a stop bank on the river, I have expansive views of the ubiquitous grapevines that dominate the sun-drenched plains. Before long I begin to think that lunch is due and fortuitously, the Tuki Kitchen Café comes into view. There’s an appealing selection of tasty, thin-crusted pizzas with local wines to match, and the blessed shade of a giant fig tree to rest under.

1. Art Deco cycling is a popular annual event

2. A smooth lime sand trail on the Wineries Mooch

3. Napier’s Sound Shell is

an iconic gathering place for visitors 4. Tandem Café is a well-patronised hub on the cycle trails

NAPIER BASED SINCE 2011 RELIABLE & PROVEN ON OUR TRAILS 021 14 71 660 | e. flyingcatnz@gmail.com | flying-cat.co.nz

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Hawke’s Bay

Heretaunga Plains

Continuing on, I follow the road to Red Bridge, where I cross the river and head back along the riverbank, cresting a few hills to gain magnificent views of Te Mata Peak and the Craggy Range. The remainder of the trail is very flat, with the final legs heading for the coast at Clifton, via Haumoana and Te Awanga. There are superb views north to Napier and southeast to Cape Kidnappers, and a well-deserved latte in the Clifton Café. To round off my sojourn in the bay I check out the Hastings iWay Loop. I’m delighted to see the city has provided boldly marked cycle lanes in the main streets, which lead directly onto the cycle path to Havelock North. Looping back into Hastings, I enjoy an ice cream at Rush Munro’s on Heretaunga Street West. After a few days of perfect pathways and pure indulgence, I now appreciate how the sun-drenched Hawke’s Bay province offers a life less ordinary to the holiday maker. Whether you’re in the bay for a weekend or a week, you’ll have access to the finest food and wine and some wonderfully scenic cycling on superb flat pathways. Make the most of it while you can. This story featured in RV Travel lifestyle issue 47.

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5 5. Napier comes alive for

the Tremains Art Deco celebrations 6. Pleasant Hawke’s Bay wine country as seen from Roy’s Hill Lookout

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Fun is on your doorstep Fantastic playground Heated swimming pool FREE WIFI Gym + more!

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Wairarapa

Martinborough – Wine country

Story Destination Wairarapa Photos Bruce Mountain or as credited

Wine on wheels The Wairarapa offers many unique experiences, with history, art and culture to draw visitors in; wild coastlines to explore and the unique wine village of Martinborough to tempt the taste buds with food, wine and shopping

1 Special Edition 2019

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Wairarapa

Martinborough – Wine country

ith its big skies, majestic mountains and rugged coast, the Wairarapa region is rich with natural beauty, and to top it all off, the local wines aren’t bad either. Located at the heart of the Classic New Zealand Wine trail, Wairarapa is home to some of the world’s best pinot noir, and the number of vineyards scattered throughout the region means you’ll have plenty of options to choose from. Charming Martinborough in the South Wairarapa attracts wine lovers from throughout the world. Whether you’re a pinot noir fan or prefer to wet your whistle with a crisp sauvignon blanc or Riesling, you’ll find more than enough options to savour, and the compact nature of the town makes it truly special. At Martinborough 2 there are more than 20 vineyards within a 10km radius of the town’s main square, so getting around is a breeze. In this little part of the country, the emphasis is on boutique smallscale production, and flavours that punch above their weight. Many of the area’s vineyards are planted on high alluvial terraces with stony, free-draining soils that are ideal for growing grapes, and the low rainfall, high sunshine hours and cool nights also make for a climate perfect for a wine village. Larger wine producers include Palliser Estate and Te Kairanga, with many boutique vineyard options in Martinborough. Many of these are situated on road, only a couple of 2km from the village square. These include Luna Estate with its tasting room and classy restaurant setting, Poppies Martinborough do tastings and match their wines with a fabulous platter in their restaurant, a popular wedding venue as well. One of the newest establishments along vineyard strip is the Moy Hall Vineyard with tasting room and casual food on offer. Tirohana Estate

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offers accommodation, wine tastings and great food in a wonderful environment, indoor and outdoor dining options, as well as being a popular wedding venue in town. The majority of vineyards offer food options with the new licensing laws, and charge a small tasting fee, and they offer bicycle parking options for visitors. The vineyards are a mix of large growers of 30 acres or more, and smaller boutique vineyards with just a few acres. Muirlea Rise on Princess Street is one of the boutique vineyards, here you will meet Shaun the winemaker and owner, he produces a particularly wonderful Après wine liqueur. You will meet many of the winemakers on a wine tour in Martinborough. This Martinborough vineyard walk or cycle experience is quite unique and should be celebrated. The main hub of the wine village has up to 14 vineyards open on weekends offering wine tastings and food, all within an easy, flat 10km maximum round trip bicycle ride or walk. During the

4 weekdays this number do reduce their days and/or hours so you should check the Destination Wairarapa website for opening hours and vineyards details for these times to avoid disappointment and make your plans. There are another six or more vineyards that only take pre-booked groups of six or more, perfect for hen’s parties or similar larger groups. One of the most fun and popular options for experiencing the Martinborough Wine Village is via pedal power. Green Jersey Cycle Tours, located on Kitchener Street near the main square, offers wine tours for those who want a guided experience, and bicycle hire if you prefer to follow your nose at your own pace. You can hire a variety of vehicles here including a rickshaw or tri-cycle, Crocodile bikes for 4-6, adult and kid’s single bikes and tandems,

as well as some electric options – something for everyone and large groups are easily catered for. There are also a range of bike rental options in town with café’s and vineyards also offering bicycle hire. If you’re not a peddler, day tours of Martinborough cellar doors with Hammonds Wellington Tours is another easy option, and walkers will be in their element in this area. For the cyclist who can go a bit further there is Cooney Wines and Murdoch James 8km out of town, great food and wine on offer there as well. Or for the really fit you can tie your ride experience into a road ride to Greytown to enjoy the shopping and ride the short trail to the railway station, or head to Featherston and hook up with the Remutaka Cycle Trail.

1. Cycling the vines Photo: Jeff McEwan

2. Cycling in Martinborough Martinborough Hotel

3. Palliser Estate Martinborough

4. Young and old will enjoy

themselves with a variety of bikes available for hire in the village. Photo Green Jersey 5. These four-seater bikes are a great option for a small group 6. The Margrain vineyard has a great dining deck overlooking the vines, the best views in Martinborough

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7 Explore stunning South Wairarapa

Add an extra day (or two) to your itinerary and give yourself a break from the saddle. Book a shuttle from your Featherston, Cross Creek or Ocean Beach accommodation to take in these fabulous options.

Down on the farm

The Palliser Ridge Farm Experience is a 3-hour full farming operation experience, includes working dogs, sheep shearing, checking beehives, fantastic coastal views. A shorter Woolshed Experience option is also available.

Catch the post run Grab a ride Monday to Friday from Featherston with the south coast postman. Ride in his van all the way to Palliser Lighthouse delivering the mail on the way. You won’t find a better person to tell you the local stories and stories about the locals.

Martinborough Vineyards

Enjoy vineyard wining and dining in the famous boutique wine village of Martinborough. Experience on foot, bike or in an organised tour. See the super friendly and helpful team at Martinborough i-SITE Visitor Centre for details, plus accommodation options.

Birding Tour Coast highlights

The Green Jersey Cape Palliser Coastal Explorer walking tour takes in the best of South Wairarapa including the skyscaper-like Putangirua Pinnacles, Ngawi fishing village, Cape Palliser lighthouse, fur seal breeding colony, as well as numerous other historical and cultural sites.

Te Rakau Birding takes you out into the wetlands or onto the spit protecting Lake Onoke from the ocean where many birds make their home. A great way to explore more of the area and learn about the local wildlife. Te Rakau also have accommodation on Western Lake Road.

For more on what’s happening in Wairarapa visit: wairarapanz.com 108

Best of North Island Walk & Cycle

The Wine Bank near the Martinborough main square is another haven for wine fans, with more than 60 varieties of local and imported drops on offer, comfy couches for sitting back and relaxing, and a state-of-theart wine dispensing system that lets visitors choose their own pours. If you’re looking for a bite to eat, Martinborough also has a range of great food options. Union Square at the historic Martinborough Hotel serves up top-end restaurant meals as well as hearty bar favourites, Café Medici offers large plates of fresh local fare while the Neighbourhood Café and Roastery boasts tasty cabinet treats and divine local coffee. The Village Café is a popular central meeting spot for locals and visitors alike. OMG (Oh My Goodness) on the corner makes fabulous pies, meals and coffee. For night owls, the Cool Change Bar & Eatery or the Mesita Wine bar on Ohio Street both cater for the cool and trendy folk. Other popular gathering places include the Pukemanu Bar & Eatery or take in a movie and a meal at the Circus Cinema, Martinborough’s boutique cinema and restaurant, and the best kept secret is Peppers Parehua for breakfast or dinner, a lovely spot for great food, you don’t have to be staying there to enjoy it. Accommodation options in the village of Martinborough are numerous; with many boutique quality homes to stay in. Other boutique accommodation options can be found such as at Martinborough Mews, one of the many luxury accommodation options available. There are spa treatments and massage services on offer in town and out at Brackenridge Country Retreat 2km from town. Peppers Parehua and the Martinborough Hotel offer accommodation with in-house restaurants, popular options for groups, weddings and conference groups. The local information centre also takes accommodation bookings online.

7. At many of the Martinborough vineyards you will meet the winemaker in the tasting room, and Tiwaiwaka Wines is one of these. Tiwaiwaka Wines is a partnership

between Morton and Elise Anderson, who are committed to making handcrafted, premium, award-winning wines. Tiwaiwaka is a Maori word for fantail, and this image appears on their wine labels 8. Shaun from Muirlea Rise, one of the boutique vineyard owner-winemakers you will meet on your trip 9. Cycling around the vineyards, the majority of which are all in close proximity. Photo Jeff McEwan

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Back on the wine trail and cyclists for those who travel with their own bikes, Gladstone is another popular haunt for vino lovers. Located just outside of Carterton, the banks of the Ruamahanga River provide another patch of stony soil that’s ripe for grape growing. The small, family-owned Gladstone vineyards are dotted around northern Wairarapa, and half the pleasure is the short drive on picturesque country roads between the wineries. You can’t go wrong with a jaunt along Dakins Road for tastings at the weekend, and Gladstone Vineyard is a popular hangout where visitors can enjoy a tasting at the cellar door and relaxing in the wine garden with a glass or two. Completing the Wairarapa wine and cycling experience is the boutique group of vineyards just north of Masterton. Located in Opaki, along Matahiwi, Paierau and Loopline Roads, these well-established hotspots boast mouth-watering, handcrafted vino that’s pretty tough to beat! Some local favourites include Le 11 Grá Vineyard (was Loopline), Paper Road Winery and Bistro. Drive or cycle between these, again if you have your own bicycle this is a rural road ride with some distance between. As well as the wine tasting, a visit to the charming country village of Greytown is a great way to while away an afternoon. History fans will love the line-up of beautifully preserved Victorian buildings along the town’s Main Street, and the shopping options include boutique clothing, giftware and design stores, an artisan French bakery and a gourmet chocolate studio. A great area to cycle, with the 5km Woodside trail going through rural farmland on the edge of town out to the Woodside train station. A great on-off option for those coming into the area on

the Wellington train, if you stay in the region you can take your bike on the train and visit Masterton, Carterton, Greytown and Featherston to ride different area’s as you please. In other words, if it’s delicious food and fine wine you’re looking for, you’re sure to find plenty that takes your fancy in the wonderful Wairarapa. For detailed information on all this diverse region has to offer, see wairarapanz.com This story featured in NZToday issue 84.

13 10. Country Village Heaven Greytown Wairarapa. Photo Jet Productions 11. The main town square of Martinborough, the streets are set up in the shape of a Union Jack with the gardens in the middle of the square 12. Hens Party Back Lawn 13. Tirohana vineyard

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Wairarapa Directory listing

MARTINBOROUGH – WINE COUNTRY Explore the Rimutaka Explore the Explore the Cycle Trail Rimutaka Enjoy an informative tasting with the owner / winemakers and a platter of local produce in a sheltered vineyard setting

Open hours Thursday / Sunday 11.30am – 5.30pm

tiwaiwakawines.co.nz

Tiwaiwaka Wines

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Wines of complexity Rimutaka Fully supported, best bikes, great food, Trail Cycle Trail Cycle balance and grace comfortable accommodation

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Fully supported, best bikes, great food, Fully supported, best bikes, great food, BOOK ONLINE OR CONTACT US comfortable accommodation comfortable accommodation

57 Cambridge Rd, Martinborough tours@greenjersey.co.nz BOOK ONLINE OR CONTACT US ONLINE ORBESPOKE BOOK CONTACT US 021 0746640 06 306 8505 tastingroom@schubert.co.nz tours@greenjersey.co.nz tours@greenjersey.co.nz 021 0746640 ITINERARIES 021 0746640 WWW.GRE E N J E RS E Y.CO. NCellar Z Door 11am to 3pm most days WWW.G RE E NJ E RSE Y.CO. NZ www.schubert.co.nz WWW.G R EEN J ER S E Y.CO.N Z

Fully supported, best bikes, great food, comfortable accommodation BOOK ONLINE OR CONTACT US tours@greenjersey.co.nz

06 306 9061 5 Jellicoe Street, Martinborough dvinehair.co.nz

021 0746640

WWW.GREENJERSEY.CO.NZ

Want to talk Real Estate? So do I!

Anne-Marie Durkin Licensed Under REAA 2008 M: 0274 763 003

anne-marie.durkin@raywhite.com

Anne-Marie Durkin Leaders Real Estate Masterton Limited Licensed (REA Act 2008)

Proudly supplying Anne-Marie Durkin South Wairarapa since 1873

Kitcheners

06 3065555 | Open 7 days

Wine tastings and lunch in the vines. Seasonal lunch menu and wines from the surrounding vineyard.

Havana Coffee - Premium X-Blend Homemade Pies, Quiches, Muffins and Slices Sandwiches, Filled Rolls & Croissants Bursting With Flavour

06 929 7305 | bookings@moyhall.nz | moyhall.nz

06 306 9376 | Mon - Fri 3am - 1.30pm Sat 5am - 12pm Breakfast til 1.00pm Mon - Fri, and til 11.30am Sat

Moy Hall Wines

A little unique and kind of quirky

#moyhallwines

Cool Change trading 7 days from 4 pm til late and lunch/brunch in the weekends through December - April. Visit our website and check us out . . coolc.co.nz or call us humans on ph 06 306 9665 look forward to hosting you … jimmy and the troops.

Cool Change Bar & Eatery | Restaurant & Bar in Martinborough | coolc.co.nz

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Wairarapa Directory listing

MARTINBOROUGH – WINE COUNTRY MARTINBOROUGH

OXFORD STREET HOMESTAY Spring Equinox 7pm September 23rd

500m from the Village square shops & restaurants, close to all the vineyards. Ph: 021 657 090 E: Robyn@nztoday.co.nz

6 Kitchener Street, Martinborough Wine Village PH: 06 306 8814 E: info@thevillagecafe.co.nz

Located in the heart of Martinborough and can accommodate from 2 to 34 guests

9 Kitchener Street, Martinborough 14, 14a, 26 and 32 Cologne Street, Martinborough, Wairarapa

06 306 9965 | nick@cafemedici.co.nz | cafemedici.co.nz

027 687 2657 | devinemartinborough@gmail.com www.devinemartinborough.co.nz

Open 8.30 to 4pm daily and Dinner Thur to Saturday from 6pm

www.lunaestate.co.nz

Visit Luna Estate Cellar Door this Summer » Asian inspired menu » Beautiful landscaped terrace and gardens » Open 7 days » Award winning wines » Only 80 mins drive from Wellington 1 3 3 P U R U ATA N G A R O A D • M A R T I N B O R O U G H

T O U R I N G

•

W E D D I N G S

•

C E L E B R AT I O N S

wairarapavintagetours.co.nz

•

C O N F E R E N C E S

wairarapaadventures.net

Wairarapa Adventures Limited, 107 Dublin Street, Martinborough

•

A C C O M M O D AT I O N

everland.co.nz

email: info@everland.co.nz

Ph: 021 550638 Special Edition 2019

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Wairarapa

Remutaka Cycle Trail

Story + Photos Gary Patterson

Greatly Inclined to Ride Keen to reach a summit without raising a sweat, ride up an incline at speed or breeze along a tricky coastal trail? If this is your style, then riding out of the Capital and onto the Remutaka Cycle Trail could be your next biking adventure

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2 1. The coast section is a real

stunner (credit: TBS Photography) 2. What a lovely starting point along the Petone waterfront 3. The truss bridges along the trail are magnificent 4. Old steam engine parts on display at Summit 5. Exiting the Summit tunnel with the surprise of a cascading waterfall 6. One of the easier crossings on the coastal section

begin my cycle mission on the foreshore at Petone – the official start of the Remutaka Cycle Trail. With my GPS units set to record every second of my experience so I can continue building the Great Rides App, I’m away. The sky is blue and there is a little chop on the harbour from the breeze that helps me ride north, upstream along the bank of the Hutt River. The GPS units plot the river edge’s gently sweeping curves along the reserves on the urban fringes. My tyres lap up the well-formed path, wheeling past Petone and both Hutt cities. Upon reaching the scattered forest pockets, I leave the city behind. After passing under the Wairarapa rail line, I climb a short hill where the trail is now

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on the former railway alignment. I have reached the line that, prior to the mid-1950s, was used by steam trains to travel over the Remutaka Range. Today, diesel-powered trains speed along a newer line that bores 8.8 kilometres through the range, while my ride goes over the mountain on the old railway line. It’s a popular ride that I am eager try. To my surprise I am launched into darkness only a few metres along the rail trail. The 253-metre Mangaroa Tunnel is the first of many on the ride. I flick on my torch to navigate through and reach the Tunnel Gully recreational area at the other end, the first of my many rest stops. Sitting under giant eucalyptus trees in the reserve I enjoy the last of autumn’s warmth. Having

refuelled my engine and checked the data being captured, I ride on towards the range and into the side catchment of the Pakuratahi. Here the trail follows the forest-lined river; the trail is wide and gentle and there is a sense of mystery beyond. Crossing a restored truss bridge (the oldest of its kind in New Zealand) I pass over the river and through another tunnel. This portal was built in 1876 and with rails yet to be laid and no vehicular access to the site, the contractor innovated and made 13,000 concrete blocks on site. The arched walls of the tunnel made of pressed sand and cement are considered to be our country’s first concrete block structure. While appreciative of the work from long ago, my senses alert me to a train coming my way! Is this a ghost train on a trackless tunnel? As I stop at the tunnel entrance, the rumbling mechanical noise increases in intensity – I can almost feel the vibrations of the advancing bulk. What’s going on?! Then, the sound of the haunting ceases … I am alone again with my wild thoughts in the wilderness. The train sound passed through the valley despite no visible tracks for miles. How could this be? A little rattled, I continue to ride and discover after my trip that I was standing near a vertical ventilation shaft leading to the current railway tunnel more than 100 metres below my tyres – this was where my phantom train was. It gave me such a fright! I continue onwards reaching the graceful arc and handcrafted stonework of Ladle Bend, a campsite below the trail, and while inviting, it is not my stopover. I continue upward as the gradient increases towards Summit.

As a cartographer I love how Summit is both a geographic feature and a place. At just under 350 metres above the Cook Strait it is the highest point of the trail and was once a small settlement of railway workers. Little remains of the community today with the most obvious feature being the circular depression where the former train turntable sat. There are a few rusty railway relics scattered about too. Beside the abandoned village a fresh slip blocks the Summit tunnel. An excavator works to remove the debris. I wait. The construction of the tunnel 140 years ago using hand tools was both slow and perilous. Skilled miners burrowed a chain length (20 metres) forwards each month. Working conditions were tough. Boring involved suffering poor ventilation, extreme cold and frequent slips – a few months after completion the roof fell in killing one person and severely injuring another. History, however dark, seems to welcome me around every corner. At Summit I am joined by two sets of tandem riders who are also awaiting the go-ahead from the excavator operator. We stand in the sun chatting about our experiences so far, before being let loose on the longest tunnel on the trail. Torchlight was useful in the other tunnels, but in this half kilometre of darkness it is compulsory. Reaching the exit brings sunlight, a waterfall that cascades beside the terminus, and the start of the speedy descent of the Remutaka Incline. Gravity takes over; I no longer puff like those steam engines of yesteryear on the incline as I free-wheel downhill.

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Explore the Remutaka Cycle Trail Quality affordable accommodation, secure car storage, powered sites Remutaka Three day adventure from $599 pp. We have you covered from start to finish.

Wellington TOP10 Holiday Park www.wellingtontop10.co.nz

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www.greenjersey.co.nz tours@greenjersey.co.nz 0800 2 EXPLORE

Before long I reach a dogleg in the trail. It is the ravine of Siberia Gully, where the trail gradient steepens and the trail surface becomes a stony creek bed to cross. Here I dismount before reconnecting with the trail and look back at the incised chasm. The gully is named after the chilling winds that roared at up to 200km an hour through this cut during railway construction. They still can. The gully was overcome for rail transport by a circular embankment 30 metres above the creek. The bank dammed the creek water that was channelled down a shaft that is the only structure remaining today. In 1880 two train carriages were blown off their tracks at this site killing four children and injuring 13 adults. The Department of Conservation intends to construct a bridge here – I sure hope it is sturdy and engineered to survive such ferocious winds! I continue down through the bowels of another tunnel and then along beautifully crafted curved cuttings swooping around the bends. At the bottom of the valley I reach Cross Creek and peer down at my brakes. They’re cooking. But the heat from the pads on my grand descent is nothing like the heat generated by the Fell locomotives’ brakes, especially with carriages in tow. These steam locomotives used the innovative addition of a centre rail to both drive from and brake the locomotives on the 1:15 grade incline. The steep grades were gruelling for the rolling stock demanding frequent maintenance … a new set of brakes was typically needed for each return from Summit. Cross Creek once had a school, library, community hall and several cottages; all long gone. All that remains is the train turntable and the working engine pits of a once busy workshop settlement. Not prepared to settle for camping, I head down the flowing trail to the road, then off the official trail to reach Featherston for the night. Riders who like engineering marvels may choose to visit the local museum for displays on the Remutaka Incline. There’s the option of returning home by hopping on the train with bikes at the local station and travelling through the big tunnel back to Maymorn, Hutt Valley

or Wellington railway stations. As dawn breaks I travel southward along the road beside Lake Wairarapa towards the southern coastline. This section of trail gets interesting once you reach Ocean Beach – the most challenging and exposed section of the trail. A few days before, a significant storm had passed through so I am wary about the stream crossings I will encounter beyond Corner Creek. As I ride along the beach I’m enamoured with the cute baches tucked into the hillside, presumably handed down between generations of holiday makers. As many of you would know, the word ‘bach’ is a Kiwi-ism. A brief search on the word reveals that it may be a shortening of the term ‘bachelor pad’ or perhaps, less likely, the Welsh word ‘bach’ meaning ‘small’ although pronounced differently – more like the German composer’s name. Where I am from in the deep south we use the word ‘crib’ for such a dwelling. The term ‘crib’ is thought to have come from an old-English Germanic word ‘krippe’ meaning ‘manger’, which later acquired different meanings as the English language developed. For some time the word described a wicker basket used by thieves in the 17th and 18th centuries to steal goods. Used as ‘to crib or pilfer a good’ the meaning lingers today in our language as ‘crib cheat sheets’. In the United States, 100 years ago, cribs were small rooms in brothels with sufficient space for a bed. However, in our country the word has a less unsavoury meaning as a small holiday home, usually built by families a couple of generations ago and often over a number of weekends. If you have ever spent time in a crib or bach you’ll know they are often packed full of games like cards, and Monopoly, jigsaws, and old magazines – you know, the stuff for wet days. They often contained mismatched carpet, furniture and fittings because they were simple, cheap structures in a bygone time. Modern stricter building regulations may endanger these dwellings, but I hope these simple dwellings like those at Corner Creek continue to live on. Parked near the baches are tracked machines and rusting tractors,

7. Riding along the

raised beach terraces

8. Meandering

past the headlands on the southern coastline (credit: TBS Photography)

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ready to help their owners launch small watercraft from the stony beach. From the state of the washed-out beach road I could see that a dozer would also be a handy means for just reaching these getaway places by vehicle. From here the trail was just that … a trail. The road may have once negotiated the rocky headlands but it now peters out leaving just enough space for my tyres. I had heard stories of how wild the weather can be on this exposed southern coast, and I consider myself fortunate to be riding without wind. However, the trail is not without its hurdles and I cross a flooded creek which may have been a trickier fording a few days ago. Not far away, I meet up with a laden bike packer at the next smaller ford; she had done well to carry her bike over the current on her solo journey eastward. I ride on and pass a flat concrete slab etched with hoof and horseshoe prints. This is a memorial to drovers and I glance down at the bronze plaque. Its weathered verdigris letters inform me that the shoreline was the beginnings of New Zealand’s pastoral industry a century and a half ago. Sheep and cattle were driven around these rocky shores onto the fertile plains of the Wairarapa. At times the pioneers had to carry sheep through the surf and around headlands to reach the safety of the next bay. These animal drives became easier after the earthquake of 1855 when the land rose several metres thereby providing a safer passage. As I ride near Turakirae Head I can see the effects of successive earthquakes that have raised the beaches of the rocky shoreline in the past. Once I reach the point, I take a detour along a challenging unstable round-stoned track to a fur seal colony – the seal viewing is a real highlight, although they can be a difficult to spot being so well camouflaged on the boulders. I ride back to the main trail and can see its end is near. Civilisation reappears around the next bend as I pass a surfer carrying his board ready to drop in

at the point and ride the regular swells that roll into the bay. Having arrived at the trailhead somewhat weary, my face beams with the wide smile of riding satisfaction. I have almost come full circle on the ride from Petone over the past two days of riding bliss. The Remutaka Cycle Trail offers sections of riding for a range of abilities. It’s a trail that starts in the urban heart and ends on the wild coast, the whole way filled to the brim with history. Few NZ Great Rides offer such variety, changing landscapes and fascinating heritage – it’s a ride I will be inclined to visit again. This story featured in RV Travel lifestyle issue 74.

Trail Update

The trail has changed along the windy road beside Lake Wairarapa, as there is now a small segment of dedicated cycle/ walking trail through the forest and shoreline. It is expected that Siberia Gully will be bridged before Christmas or the latter part of summer. Once bridged, riders will no longer have to descend to the waterway, lift their bike over the rocky creek and the climb back up to the track. It’s going to be one splendid bridge over this precarious ravine.

FREE DOWNLOAD

Statistics

114km, Mixed Grades Official Links: wellingtonnz.com Great Rides App - Scan the QR Code or visit the App Stores 120

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Martin Warenczuk

EXPLORE WELLINGTON’S BIG BACKYARD: HUTT VALLEY

Explore the bays by pedal power along the Pencarrow Coast to visit New Zealand’s first lighthouse, lit in 1859. Venture to the stunning Pencarrow Lakes, Kohangapiripiri and Kohangatera, and surrounding wetlands. Take a short break from your ride at Brewtown, a craft beer lovers dream with Panhead, Kererū, Te Aro, and Boneface. Enjoy tours, tastings, and delicious food matches — all within walking distance from Upper Hutt city.

Encounter the unique history at the Petone Settlers Museum, Te Whare Whakaaro o Pito-one. With stories of local iwi Te Atiawa and early European settlers, visitors can climb aboard and peer into the past.

Visit magical Middleearth with sights from The Lord of the Rings and put yourself in the scene at Rivendell in Kaitoke Regional Park. See the makers of the movies’ unique costumes and woven eco-textiles at Stansborough Mill.

Find a friendly space surrounded by the city

Relive our rail heritage at the Silver Stream

energy or stay in the peace and quiet of

Railway with operational locomotives and a

seaside suburbs or rural retreats.

historical museum.

Try the French-inspired Silverstream Retreat

ride along in steam locomotives, diesel

surrounded by native bush with valley views.

locomotives and railcars along restored railway.

Watch, or even

Get back to nature within metres of our neighbourhoods — full of cafés, parks and picnic spots to entice you off your bike.

huttvalleynz.com/ridethetrail

Story + Photos Jim Robinson

Wellington

Hutt Valley Trails

Petone to Summit River and rail-trail – riding the Hutt Valley is a popular activity enjoyed by thousands each year. We explore and follow the trails through tunnels and bush

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2 1. A 584m tunnel that

emerges from Rimutaka Forest Park 2. Newly renovated exterior of the Petone Settlers Museum 3. Petone Light House Cinema lit up at night 4. Cruising along the Hutt River trail section. Photo Jay French 5. Ladle Bend Bridge along the summit of Rimutaka Cycle Trail

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he Hutt Valley borders the north side of Wellington Harbour, just minutes away from the central city. It feels like the capital city’s big backyard – full of open spaces to explore. Stop for a cool drink at one of Petone’s eateries on the harbour foreshore, and you’re greeted with stories that will take you back to the beginning of New Zealand. Saddle up for a ride around the Remutaka Cycle Trail from Petone, and you’ll uncover more traces of New Zealand’s rich heritage – ancient Māori settlement sites, European colonial history, and the legacy of stone and steel from the days of steam-powered rail. When European settlers arrived in 1840, to be greeted by the Te Ati Awa people, the lush bush

coating the hills extended all the way down to the beachfront. Migrants had been sold the idea of a utopian escape from big-city post-industrial Britain by The New Zealand Company, based in London, which offered settlers from Britain a new lease of life. Instead they were rewarded – after an arduous 120-day sea journey – by incredible rainforest surrounding their primitive colonial villages that were often flooded by the waters of Te Awa Kairangi/Hutt River. In fact it was flooding that eventually forced the abandonment of the original site for the town of Britannia. After its relocation across the harbour to Thorndon and Te Aro, uncertainties over land sales continued to dog the makeshift community, though flat land became an asset for industry and workers’ homes. Petone is the Anglicised version of the Māori name Pito-one meaning the ‘end of the sand’. Other more recent translations of this name include ‘belly button’. This is quite apt considering it was the birthplace of European settlement in central New Zealand. The Wellington Provincial Centennial Memorial – officially opened on the 22nd of January 1940 as a bathing pavilion at the heart of Petone’s thriving beach scene – was built to mark the centenary of the first settler landings. Memories of women’s woollen swim dresses are evoked as you enter the museum, that still retains the original Men’s’ and Women’s’ engraved signs demarcating the building’s two halves. Once inside, do lift the lid on ‘The Smells of Petone’. The whiff of staple household products proudly made in Petone will immediately take you back to the simpler life of decades ago. The iconic Petone Wharf that once served the large factories nearby is a popular spot for fishermen, sunnyday wharf jumpers and cosy couples strolling in the long summer sunsets. It was last used commercially in the 1930s, in the days of travelling circuses when

4 (at the same spot) elephants trumpeting water at each other could frequently be seen. Petone is a great place to be hungry. Jackson Street’s historic shopping strip boasts over 60 eateries in 800 metres of the main shopping strip, located amongst specialty stores maintaining their colonial charm. This is a very popular area for Wellingtonians to shop. Some might consider it a street-sized pantry with delis and stores offering treats from around the globe plus everything else a foodie could wish for, including a specialty knife shop, dinnerware, and options for a picnic hamper fit for a feast amongst nature. It’s also home to coffee roasters, food producers, fashion labels, craft beer and more artisan products that keep the innovative spirit of the early settlers alive. If you have ever wondered how many people can fit into an old jail cell, you may want to visit Petone’s tiny Police Station and Jail, adjacent to the main bus stop in the centre of Jackson Street. Here you can see where 10 police once watched over four holding cells brimming with clientele. To this day, the building is almost original, and you’re free to lock yourself in the wooden cells and imagine how life must have been overnight in the cells last century. Petone locals are often quick to talk about the pure artesian water that runs straight to their taps, and about the wider aquifer that supplies around a sixth of the Wellington region’s water, from wells in across the Hutt Valley. Did you fill your drink bottle? You can savour the taste of pure artesian water at Te Puna Wai Ora – The Spring of Life – on the corner of Buick and Jackson Streets. This is marked by a Louise Purvis sculpture of water vessels stacked skywards, to create a fountain of cascading water which sparkles in the sun. The artesian water originates from the Hutt River. Halfway down the valley, at Taita Gorge, it’s filtered through layers of sand, gravel and boulders and trapped by layers of silt and clay. Testing by GNS Science has shown the water to 5 have been filtered for around a year – and it can

be up to 200 years old in other parts of the aquifers beneath the valley. Petone railway station marks the start of the Remutaka Cycle Trail. This is one of 22 Great Rides across New Zealand offering a slice of every New Zealand landscape – river valleys, mountains, rail trails, lakeside farm roads and stunning coastal riding to beaches. But it’s the people you meet along the way who make the ride. The trail skirts beside suburban parkland and urban neighbourhoods, and it doesn’t take long to find a bite to eat or a pit stop along the way up the river valley. It is estimated that more than 1,000,000 people use the Hutt River Trail each year, and the local councils have made the trail super smooth with many kilometres of wide asphalt installed, making it perfect for the cruisiest of riders. Cycling along the trail you’ll pass through the green suburbs of a city that has grown with an ever-changing river to provide a backbone of parkland. The trail often follows the river’s protective stop-banks. These act like a valley within the valley, where you’ll meet locals out for their morning walk with their dog, playing a round of golf, young teams playing on sports fields, families having barbeques or swimming in the river. Avalon Park and playground is one great adventure park not to cycle past, especially for those travelling with younger riders.

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6 6. Rider in old locomotive turning pit at summit of Rimutaka Cycle Trail. Photo: TBS photogpraphy 7. The trail’s farm animals are popular attractions 8. Trail walkers overlooking Hutt Valley from lookout at top of Percy Scenic Reserve Saturdays especially are a bonanza, with the Riverbank Market held right beside the trail as it passes Lower Hutt. This makes for a perfect opportunity to stock up on local produce and to feast from food-trucks. Other trail basics like supermarkets and places to stay are easy to find – there are B&B, homestay and motel options all the way up the valley. Halfway along you’ll get a taste of the historic rail trails ahead when you reach the Silver Stream Railway steam locomotive rides and museum – especially if you arrive to puffs of smoke on a Sunday afternoon. The Silver Stream Railway is named after the silver-coloured Hull’s Creek that runs beside the railway. It is a restored 1.5km section of the Wellington to Upper Hutt railway that was bypassed in 1954. It regularly operates ex-Government and ex-industrial steam and diesel locomotives. Standing outside the carriages, you’re almost compelled to breathe in the coal-laden smoke to get the full effect of the ride. Five riverside golf courses add to the ambience of the trail – you could even try blasting a few golf balls at the driving range, or teeing off at the course that recently hosted the Asia–Pacific Amateur Golf Championship. Today the NZ Army has one of its bases at Trentham, near Upper Hutt. This was where troops gathered before going off to war by ship from Wellington. Many had already marched over the Remutaka Pass from training camps in Featherston in the Wairarapa. And US Marines left a WW2 legacy just a few kilometres south in Silverstream, at what was once a US Marine-built hospital, adjacent to the railway. Tens of thousands of US troops found themselves in New Zealand, either before or immediately after experiencing 7 the horror of war in the Pacific, and 126

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construction of the rehabilitation centre and hospital was authorised in early 1941 to house 450 patients. The completed hospital consisted of 46 buildings that could accommodate 1600 patients and included wards, a gymnasium, staff quarters and theatre blocks. It was used by the US Navy from August 1942 to April 1944, and during this time around 20,000 patients were treated. During the US Navy’s occupation, all maintenance work and operation of services at the hospital was carried out by the New Zealand Public Works Department for a whopping £293,000. The institution was later taken over by the Wellington Hospital Board to accommodate long-term patients. It was recently converted into a popular accommodation and function complex.

On Wellington’s doorstep, waiting to be explored, lies a trail of hundreds of hikes, bikes, walking and horse riding tracks. Take a step into nature and be rewarded with epic views and wild landscapes. Get moving and be blown away by Wellington’s regional trails. Find your Wild: WellingtonRegionalTrails.com

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Valley Trails Riding north past Upper Hutt leads you to Harcourt Park where the trail rises up an escarpment created in 1855 by a magnitude 8.2 earthquake. This was the most powerful ever recorded in New Zealand and it changed the landscape of much of the southern part of the North Island. As you pedal a bit harder you’ll get a real sense of nature’s awesome power. And it’s here you’re also likely to see some real characters on the trail. Lord of the Rings fans are hosted on movie tours in Harcourt Park, so it’s not unusual to see Hobbit-eared tour leaders recounting the cinematic adventures of the film locations in and around the park. Perhaps even more popular are the farm animals. Around 50,000 riders a year cruise along the historic railway line that once connected Wairarapa with the capital city, Wellington. The 17km rail trail is the most popular section of the Remutaka Cycle Trail and it can be ridden as a day trip by making use of the train service at each end – Maymorn and Featherston. This option will still give you plenty of time to picnic and sample the good tastes of Featherston. You’ll need to pack a headlight or torch for the numerous tunnels. And be prepared for fleeting thoughts of a possible bungy-jump as you ride past the top of the 116m ventilation shaft down to the present-day rail route, which goes under the ranges through a tunnel opened in 1955. The trail can lay claim to some of New Zealand’s earliest engineering advances. The often-photographed Pakuratahi Bridge is the oldest truss bridge in New Zealand. It was built in 1876 and rebuilt in 1910 after a fire. It has since been restored again, most recently in 2001. The Kaitoke Summit shelter calls you in like an old railway station. Riders will often lunch here and can even set up camp on longer multi-day rides. It’s here you’ll get to test your night vision through the 584m tunnel that emerges from Remutaka Forest Park on the Wairarapa side. You won’t need to pedal for 7km, aside from a short detour at Siberia Gully. Then, after finding Western Lake Road, it’s decision time – north to Featherston and an easy train ride back to Petone complete with your bike, or onward to Martinborough wine country … or south to follow the adventure of the rest of the Remutaka Cycle Trail through to Ōrongorongo. Happy riding! This story featured in NZToday issue 77.

• Remutaka Cycle Trail Connect to many hundreds of kilometres of off-road trails across the Hutt Valley from one of NZ’s Great Rides. The ride offers a slice of every New Zealand landscape – river valleys, mountains, rail trails, lakeside farm roads and stunning coastal riding to beaches. • Belmont Regional Park Explore the heights of working farms and rolling hills that were once home to ammunition stores and airstrips in WW2, and New Zealand’s first concrete dam (in Korokoro). Easy farm trails are mixed with more challenging mountain-biking routes rising to 457m at Belmont Trig. • Wainuiomata Trail Project Get muddy on a mountain-bike park built by local volunteers for beginner riders through to technical downhill riders. The park climbs to the top of Wainuiomata Hill, with over 16km of trails around a wetland loop and Jungle Gym, to the crazier downhillonly tracks. • Tunnel Gully A popular spot for walking and tramping, mountain biking, and picnicking. Named after the historic rail tunnel that leads to today’s Remutaka Rail Trail, it’s also the gateway to Upper Hutt’s highest peak for cyclists. Rising to 830m, Mount Climie is an impressive walk with vistas across the Wellington region, and home to downhill mountain-biking challenges. • Karapoti New Zealand’s original MTB race – Ride the Southern Hemisphere’s longest-running mountain-bike event each March. Established in 1986 the Karapoti Classic is an old-school adventure ride, a huge but achievable challenge in stunning scenery, with an awesome social scene. With options like the feature 50k Classic, 20k Challenge and the Kids’ 5k Klassic, it’s built for all levels. • Eastern Hills Firebreaks Locals know them as the trails built for firefighting access to the Hutt’s eastern hills. The firebreaks are where you’ll find the fitness-focused. Wide gravel trails connect to mountain-bike parks, transmission-station access routes and great downhill and jumping spots at Summit Road for the slightly madder riders amongst us. • Pencarrow Coast A flat coastal ride, originally the main route for the first settlers of the region to access Wairarapa. Discover New Zealand’s first lighthouse, shipwrecks and the beautiful Kohangapiripiri and Kohangatera Lakes with views of the South Island’s snow-capped mountains. Huttvalleynz.com is the go-to site for local visitor information. You’ll find plenty more tracks and trails to explore at huttvalleynz.com/cycling A 584m tunnel that emerges from Remutaka Forest Park.

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