Pro Grow News FALL.25 DIGITAL EDITION

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pro grow

pro grow news Fall 2025

PRESIDENT

Kerry Preston, MCH Wisteria & Rose, Inc. (617) 522-3843

VICE PRESIDENT

David Vetelino, MCH Vetelino Lanscape Inc.

Tel: (781) 826-0004

SECRETARY/TREASURER

Dave Anderson Mayer Tree Tel: (978) 768-6999

PAST PRESIDENT

Chris O’Brien, MCH Howard Designs, Inc.

Tel: (617) 244-7269

DIRECTORS

Steve Davis, MCH Bigelow Nurseries, Inc

Laura DiCarlo, MCH Cavicchio Greenhouses, Inc.

Justin Mortensen Farm Credit East

Patrick Parent Mahoney’s Garden Centers

Kelly Perry, MCH Swan Point Cemetery

EDUCATION & RESEARCH COMMITTEE

Deborah Trickett, MCH The Captured Gardens (781) 329-9698

FINANCIAL COMMITTEE (FINCOM)

Steve Corrigan, MCH — Chair

Mountain View Landscapes & Lawncare, Inc.

Tel: (413) 536-7555

GOVERNMENT RELATIONS COMMITTEE

Chris O’Brien, MCH

Howard Designs, Inc.

Tel: (617) 244-7269

HISTORY COMMITTEE

Philip Boucher, MCH — Chair

Elysian Garden Designs

Tel: (508) 695-9630

Skott Rebello, MCH — Vice Chair Harborside P.S.

Tel: (508) 994-9208

MASSACHUSETTS CERTIFIED HORTICULTURIST BOARD (MCH)

Corinne Jean, MCH — Chair Wisteria & Rose (617) 522-3843

Advisor: Jack Elicone, MCH John R. Elicone Consulting

MEMBERSHIP COMMITTEE

David Ahronian, MCH - Chair Ahronian Landscape & Design, Inc. (508) 429-3844

Dave Anderson - Vice Chair Mayer Tree Tel: (978) 768-6999

PUBLICATIONS:

Editor in Chief: Rena Sumner MNLA Reporter: Amber Ahronian

Advisors: Amber Ahronian, MCH, Rick Reuland, Trevor Smith MCH, Beverly Sturtevant

EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR

Rena M. Sumner Tel: (413) 369-4731 mnlaoffice@aol.com

LEGISLATIVE DIRECTOR

John V. Fernandes Attorney at Law John@fplaw.net

My new identity “Crazy Bird Lady”

Greetings friends, or should I say, “Chirp Chirp.” Big News!!! I have found a new hobby: BIRDING! I no longer answer to “Crazy Plant Lady” or more politely, “Avid Plant Collector.” I now will only answer to “Crazy Bird Lady” or if you are feeling more tolerant, “Lovely Friend of Winged Creatures.” This new interest started in early summer when I decided to get a small bird feeder, inexpensively purchased at Home Depot for $12. Add a bag of seed, mostly corn and sunflower seed, again about $12, and voilà, a birder was born. Those of you in the know are chuckling right about now, nodding your head, and saying, “Just wait.” Could I ask where you were when I needed you the most? Where were you when I discovered the Bird Store? Where were you when I discovered the Merlin app? Where were you when I started to discuss the merits of a Fruit and Berry Mix vs the High Energy Suet? And where were you when I started creating separate feeding stations for the “big birds” and the “songbirds”? And where were you when I went running outside at 4am with a stick to chase off some very angry racoons?

If you know me, and I hope that you are starting to get to know me through these articles, you know that I am an “All in” type of gal. When the bunnies arrived, I went on a mission to bunny proof the garden. Three layers of fencing were put up to keep out the wee ones, the teenagers and the huge fully grown bunnies. When I became a beekeeper so many years ago, I started with one hive and rapidly progressed to numerous hives. Nothing is too good for those bees!! I love to grow giant things; I have grown giant sunflowers, giant dinner plate dahlias, giant onions, giant hydrangeas, anything I can put next to my face or on my head for scale is on the list. (Do not ask me about the giant pumpkin…still working on it!) And now, I am all in on Birding.

What people do not tell you when you start birding, is how very expensive this hobby turns out to be. What starts as a simple little feeder turns into a very elaborate, steel pole with a squirrel baffle, numerous arms of feeders, assorted sizes and shapes of feeders, suet hangers, energy butter boards and a bird favorite, seed candles. The bird store is worse than a nursery. After all, we go to nurseries every day and do not feel compelled to purchase a hydrangea every time we walk down the aisle. That is not what it is like to go into a Bird Store. There are seeds of every type, no mess! Premium energy blend! Songbird festival! Cardinal delight! Woodpeckers dream! Chickadee dee dee buffet! And of course I need a new hummingbird feeder, who does not? Cha-ching$! These people saw me coming from a mile away.

In all seriousness, this has been one of the most rewarding, educational, and frustrating hobbies that I have undertaken to date. Want to know why? Here is a list of the things that I have learned over the past few months:

1. If you put out seed, you will get birds. For the most part, they will eat whatever you put out there. And if you do not really mind feeding them constantly, you can use a low-cost seed and still get plenty of variety.

2. Eventually, you will start to realize that big birds such as Blue Jays and Grackles scare away the smaller songbirds. These birds are big and loud, and they eat fast and furiously. It is a good idea to get a feeder with a large cage around it that these birds cannot get into if you are looking for smaller songbirds. President’s Message

3. The smaller songbirds love the fancy seed mixtures, and I tend to splurge on that occasionally because the large birds cannot get to it. And it attracts so many cute little birds.

4. Suet is a big draw for many birds, woodpeckers love it. If you purchase an upside-down suet feeder, birds that “cling” can enjoy it more than the big birds who will eat anything in site.

5. Have water nearby, a birdbath, a fountain, anything they can get some water. They enjoy eating, drinking and then bathing. It is quite the rotation of stations when it is feeding time.

6. Download the Merlin App from Cornell University. This is by far the best app I have ever seen. First of all, it is free. It can identify birds by photos or, my favorite way, by birdsong. Just click the recording button and put the phone on the table or the windowsill, it will identify all the birds it hears, link it to the information page and photos and mark down where and when you see it.

7. Create a life list on the Merlin app. I love adding a new bird to my list! I cannot tell you the many times I have recorded a song while on a hike and then seen the bird later. It is so much fun to add a bird to your life list, trust me.

8. This can become a bit of an expensive hobby, especially when you are trying to manage the other creatures that want to eat the seed. It is not just the larger birds, it is the squirrels and the chipmunks, raccoons and even bears that think feeders are meant for them. Adding baffles and cages and other physical deterrents add up. A good feeder is not cheap, worth it, but not cheap!

9. Watching the birds is incredibly relaxing. At the end of a long day, I can sit on the deck and just watch them all come in and go out. Yes, there are a million sparrows and house finches, but you start to know the downy woodpeckers (I have 4), or the titmouse (there are four pairs that come by), and the occasional nuthatch. I also have been hosting a threesome of red bellied woodpeckers for the past few weeks, they are spectacular!

10. Having the wide variety of birds in the yard has made me appreciate all, not all birds eat from the feeders. There are Baltimore orioles that never come to the feeder but are eating the fruit of dogwood. There is a flock of chimney swifts that swirl in the sky at dusk eating insects. The robins are digging in the ground for the worms and the bugs that live there. It is a habitat that is working for all the creatures in the yard, and it feels good to be a part of it.

Have I inspired you to start your own birding habitat? Let me know the best birds on your life list next time we see each other. Until then, keep your feeders full and your Merlin app on!

My best,

Rose

Helping you plant seeds of security since 1956.

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Sheila McCarthy Medway 508-321-3288

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Rick Green South Deerfield 413-416-1234

Eric Mason Southwick 413-569-2307

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Scott Brockelman Topsfield 978-887-8304

Thomas Carroll Worcester 508-752-3300

Jason Charette Topsfield 978-887-8304

Steve Charette General Agent Newburyport 978-225-1511

MCH Corner — Committee Reports

Celebrating New MCH Members this Fall

Asthe seasons shift and the air turns crisp, fall reminds us of the beauty of transition. The brilliant color change in our trees (the true autumn hues, not the drought stress we’ve weathered this summer), the colorful fall container plantings, and the first crunch of leaves underfoot are all reminders that growth takes many forms. And so does mastery in horticulture.

It’s with that same spirit of growth and accomplishment that we celebrate the newest group of professionals who have successfully earned their Massachusetts Certified Horticulturist (MCH) designation. Passing the MCH exam is no small feat — it requires dedication, study, and a deep passion for the green industry.

MCH Name Employer

Samuel Abramson, MCH Christie Dustman & Co.

Kyle Barbieri, MCH Parterre Garden

Adam Beck, MCH Hartney Greymont

Alison Carroll, MCH Parterre Garden Services

Cailley Culotta, MCH Hartney Greymont

Stephanie Dillon, MCH North Shore Natives

Sebastian Escalon, MCH Mount Auburn Cemetery

Ashley Giles, MCH Parterre Garden Service

Kaelyn Gormley, MCH Parterre Garden Services

Meghan Hogan, MCH Onyx Corporation

Ben Johnson, MCH H F Johnson Tree Farm

James Kelliher, MCH James Kelliher Garden Design LLC

Alisa Kowal, MCH Halcyon Homesteads Garden Service

Colin Large, MCH Weston Nuseries

Michael Laswell, MCH Pemberton Garden Services Inc.

What does this certification mean?

Becoming an MCH is a mark of being truly well-rounded in the profession. It signifies knowledge not only of plants themselves, but also of pests and diseases, turf management, irrigation, landscape construction, and the environmental principles that guide responsible horticulture. It represents the ability to see the bigger picture of our landscapes — how living plants, built elements, and stewardship practices all work together.

This season, as we prepare for what’s ahead, let’s also take time to applaud those who’ve reached this milestone. Their certification is not just a credential, but a recognition of their commitment to professional excellence and their role in strengthening our horticultural community.

Congratulations to our new MCHs — you’ve planted the seeds for a long and successful journey in the field. And just like fall, may your careers continue to be full of color, richness, and inspiration.

Corinne Jean, MCH Wisteria & Rose MCH Chair

Megan Lim, MCH RP Marzilli and Company

Natalie Maclean, MCH Nature Works Landscaping Service

Adrienne Mitchell, MCH Chelsea Gardens

Mike Naughton, MCH M.J. Nicholls Landscaping

Julia Palatine, MCH Nature Works Landscape

Valentine Payne, MCH R.P. Marzilli

Rachael Peters, MCH Amherst College

Derek Pezzolesi, MCH SavATree

Margaret Renou, MCH Parterre Garden Services

Isabell Rozza, MCH Parterre Garden Services

Shea McCarthy, MCH Mount Auburn Cemetery

Maryellen Sullivan, MCH Christie Dustman & Co

Phoebe Westbrook, MCH Northeastern University DON’T DELAY... RECERTIFY TODAY!

Government Relations

Bridging the Divide: Why Political Support at All Government Levels Matters for the Nursery and Landscape Industry

In today’s regulatory climate, landscape and nursery businesses face more than just weather, pests, or market shifts—we’re navigating a complex political landscape, too. From federal water-use policy to local zoning ordinances, decisions made at all levels of government directly impact our bottom lines.

Understanding how political support varies across city, state, and national levels isn’t just a civic exercise. It’s a business strategy.

City Government:

Ground-Level Impact

City officials determine zoning rules, local water-use restrictions, park projects, and tree-planting initiatives. A city with a pro-green infrastructure stance may fund urban landscaping efforts, while another may cut contracts due to budget constraints. Your attendance at city council meetings, participation in local business groups, and staying close to your municipal planning board will affect how those decisions are made.

State Government: The Regulatory

Backbone

State legislatures shape agriculture laws, labor regulations, nursery plant restrictions, and more. States also set tax policy and often control grant programs or rebate incentives for sustainable practices. Massachusetts is currently considering projects for funding under the environmental bond bill passed last session. Pesticide regulations are another important area under state control.

Federal Government: Big Picture, Big Shifts

At the national level, the government influences broader environmental standards, workforce policy, infrastructure funding, and research grants. Federal programs like the USDA’s conservation funding or EPA stormwater rules can mean new opportunities—or new red tape. Conflicts between city, state, and federal policies are increasingly common—and they can create operational headaches.

· Example 1: Water Restrictions – A city may impose emergency drought regulations, while the state regulates total water access. Navigating both requires political awareness and proactive communication.

· Example 2: Pesticide Bans – A federally approved chemical may be banned by the state. And increasingly, localities are trying to ban some pesticides at the municipal level. You need to know what’s legal where.

· Example 3: Landscape Funding – States may fund tree plantings through an environmental bond bill, but your city might freeze park maintenance contracts. Knowing which level is investing helps target your efforts.

Understanding where political support exists can help you and MNLA advocate effectively when our industry is impacted.

It is equally important to identify where there are opportunities to develop new support. Many officials don’t fully grasp the economic value or environmental benefits our industry provides. That’s a missed opportunity — unless you help educate them.

Your membership in the MNLA enables our industry to track proposed legislation and regulations and to make certain that the effects of those proposals are fully understood. But your active participation is equally important. Participation in events like Mass Ag Day at the State House or a fundraiser can have an impact. Attention to municipal actions such as conservation restrictions at the town or city level need to be monitored. Help clients, staff, and policymakers understand how your work supports local ecosystems, public health, and the economy.

Politics isn’t just something that happens in Washington. It happens on your street, in your county, and in your state. The policies made at each level can either open doors or throw up roadblocks. By understanding and engaging with political support across city, state, and national levels, your business can stay compliant, seize opportunities, and help shape a greener future — one rooted in both policy and practice.

Celebrating Summer with MNLA: A Season of Learning, Networking

Thursday, July 24, 2025

Where everything is possible!

SWho should attend? YOU!

Why attend? Professionals in the green industry will not want to miss this great summer opportunity for education, recertification, and networking!

Down to Earth attracts more than 600 industry professionals representing garden centers, retail and wholesale nurseries, greenhouse growers, landscape contractors, maintenance, designers, and architects.

ummer bloomed with opportunity this year as the Massachusetts Nursery and Landscape Association (MNLA) hosted two of its signature events: the Down to Earth Summer Conference & Trade Show and the ever-popular Plant Geek Day. These hallmark gatherings offered members and industry professionals valuable education, rich networking, and a shared celebration of horticulture.

It’s the place to connect with industry colleagues and friends. Scan the QR code or visit mnla.com/dte25 for more information. Register by June 20, 2025 for the BEST price!

Held at the historic Topsfield Fairgrounds, the Down to Earth Summer Conference & Trade Show continued to thrive as a must-attend event. With a strong focus on industry education and connection, attendees enjoyed a full day of engaging sessions, vendor exhibits, and peer networking. A highlight of the day was the Container Garden Contest, where creativity took center stage. Congratulations to this year’s Fire & Ice winners:

• Joe Shafner – 1st place ($250)

• Emily Giroux – 2nd place ($125)

• Michael Dattillo – 3rd place ($75)

• Alli Slaney – 4th place ($35)

A special thank you goes to our generous Container Garden Contest sponsors: Cavicchio Greenhouse, Berry’s Greenhouse, Griffin Greenhouse Supply, Site One, and Deborah Trickett of The Captured Garden, who once again hosted the contest with her signature energy and flair. 1st 2nd 3rd 4th

Networking & Green Inspiration

2025

In September, over 100 green industry enthusiasts gathered at the New England Botanical Garden @ Tower Hill for Plant Geek Day. This annual tradition offers deep dives into the latest plant knowledge and practices. This year’s attendees enjoyed expert-led tours and educational sessions courtesy of the knowledgeable NEBG staff. We extend heartfelt thanks to Hartney Greymont for sponsoring this enriching day, which continues to grow in both size and impact.

MNLA extends sincere appreciation to our vendors, sponsors, and attendees whose support makes these signature events possible. Your enthusiasm and dedication fuel our community and mission.

Looking Ahead

Mark your calendars for two exciting dates in 2026:

Winter Forum & Conference: February 4–5, 2026

Down to Earth Summer Conference & Trade Show: July 23, 2026

For updates, registration, and more information, visit mnla.com. We can’t wait to grow with you in seasons to come!

Artful Architecture

Why not repurpose plant material to make something extraordinary? Dead hedges are manmade structures crafted with logs, branches, twigs, stems, seedheads, flower stalks, and grasses. A hedge may be made with some or all of those plant materials, depending on the goals for the piece and what is available. These intentional works can be anything from a convenient pile to a large installation.

Dead hedges are one way to combine an ecological landscaping approach with artful reuse of materials to form sculptural garden artifacts. They create space for a bounty of wildlife, especially beneficial insects, and let your creativity play with the myriad possibilities of found materials. We spoke with three public garden professionals about their experiences creating and maintaining dead hedges and the abundant benefits of these evolving structures. Kevin Philip Williams, Manager of Horticulture at Denver Botanic Gardens; Erin Presley, Horticulturist at Olbrich Botanical

Gardens; and Leirion Sorensen, Horticulture Manager at Chanticleer weighed in on the building and stewarding of these unique creations. Each of these public gardens has been building dead hedges with an artistic eye to create habitat, but also beautiful garden sculpture.

Built-In Benefits

“The most basic benefit is habitat,” commented Williams. “You’re keeping material that many invertebrates have already nested in and you’re letting these animals emerge and continue their life cycle. All sorts of animals use those cracks, crevices, and holes, both in the structure you’re building and in the plant material itself. Plus, many creatures use it to nest in, to burrow into, and in some cases, to eat or to chew or break apart or to build in other places. Many of the grasses and the fibers are taken and used by birds. I think habitat and homes are the first major benefits that you have by incorporating these structures and keeping this material on your site.”

with Dead Hedges

Presley finds, “The primary reason most people think about installing a dead hedge for ecological benefit is for insect sheltering but also overwintering. There are many insects that overwinter as larvae, egg cases, or even adults that are sheltering in brush piles or on twigs. You’ll commonly find them under the inner cambium layer of peeling bark that’s starting to decompose, where they can sneak in and take cover.”

Sorensen stressed creating a diverse array of habitats on properties to welcome the broadest array of life. “We know that diversity supports diversity and that, in turn, supports resiliency. So, diversity in habitat is one of the three main practices of diversity, the other two being species diversity and genetic diversity. For many insects dead wood – dying, decaying wood – is really important to their life cycles. It can be as specific as if the dead wood is standing upright, or if it’s laying down, or if the fallen tree is oriented to the north or the south. Those are attractive to all types of different things

for different reasons.”

By adding new and different layers of habitat, you are building resilient relationships for species that control pests, feed birds and wildlife, and help plants thrive with minimal inputs. In turn, keeping plant material on site keeps it out of landfills, saves on hauling and garbage fees, and reduces the need for expensive chipping. “One of the huge benefits is that we get to reuse a lot of the material that normally tends to go into the waste stream,” reported Williams.

Opportunity for Art

Now that you’ve sold the client on the benefits of a dead hedge, how do we make them artful? As gardeners and horticulturists working with plants, our connection with them doesn’t end once flowers fade. The intentionality of a built object, be it old stumps, woven branches, or placed stems, gives the opportunity for creating something new and intriguing. It can also be a problem-solver.

Offbeat But Effective

“I think of it as problem solving in your landscape,” commented Presley. “We have used a dead hedge to hide a utility box. We might install dead hedges in newly developing areas to test out a new layout for a path. We’ll line the edges of the path and start to create a dead hedge to lead people through. It’s a semi-permanent way to work in the landscape if you have something you want to try, but not necessarily have it be a hardscape feature that you’re tied to forever. Creating a dead hedge can be a great way to be able to define spaces. Working at a public garden, I’ve created little dead hedges as barriers where people are cutting through because it’s a more natural way to say, ‘stop going here’ than having a plastic cone or an actual fence.” Plus, here in the Midwest, winter is a long season. “Gardens can be a bit quieter-looking in the winter, so dead hedge-type features or other woody debris that’s arranged artfully, gives you something to look at other than a blank, empty bed.”

Intentionality shines through when you add a touch of order to what might normally be just a brush pile. “When you line it up, when you stack it, when you make it neat, it doesn’t take much to put a person-stamp on it,” said Sorensen. “It’s building it in a way that makes it seem intentional. It’s easily read by anyone, regardless of if they understand what the reasoning for it is, they understand that at least is purposeful, and that makes it more palatable for a lot of humans.”

Williams believes, “Any way that you approach it, whether you’re binding it into a shape or letting it find its own natural shape as you lay it, finding your own sort of pattern and

repetition rhythm will definitely create an intentionality of the material, even if it’s even if it’s a non-standard material.”

Construction Basics

While in many ways a dead hedge is straightforward to build, these horticulturists have learned some tricks along the way. At Denver Botanic Garden, Williams is using different sizes and shapes of bent rebar to form wickets as a framework. “The framework can vary. Several times I’ve used bent rebar to make a really big croquet wicket form. I look at the landlines, at the garden edging, the pathways throughout the space, and decide on what type of line I want to draw. I think about what type of rise and elevation undulations would really fit that space and continue the story of the garden. I’ll use the different size wickets to allow me to have those forms, the twist, the turns, the sort of weaving in and out.”

Presley and the team at Olbrich stack branches horizontally, often in zigzags, starting broader at the base and graduating narrowing at the top. They use cut branches and rebar as vertical posts to keep the fences from tumbling as the bottom wood slowly crumbles. “On top of each rebar post, we add a little birch wood slice that has a hole drilled into it. It almost looks like a marshmallow on the end of a roasting stick. It cues people that this is art and this is function, and this is biology, all melded together. The more that you can invest in some of those extra steps in the beginning to create a tidy framework and have an intentional design, really helps further on as your piles get bigger, and helps you to keep following your original design intent.”

Offbeat But Effective

Materials to Avoid

While most dead or drying plant material can be used in dead hedges, our experts agreed that it is best to shy away from a few types. Dried foliage that had fungus or mildew during the growing season is not recommended as the pathogen usually stays with the material to spread the following year. Invasive plants that have a tendency to root quickly and easily may be problematic. Dried flowers and seedheads can be very striking in a hedge composition but consider if you want that plant to pop up in that area as seeds fall.

Presley finds placement important because dead hedges can shelter unwanted critters as well as desired species. “We’ve had issues with some of our dead hedges in years when we have really intense rodent pressure in the garden. Voles and mice take advantage of the shelter provided by them. Keep that in mind if you’re creating dead hedges in your yard, to maybe keep

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Offbeat But Effective

them a little bit further away from your home proper, if that’s something of concern to you.”

Moments to Cultivate

All three institutions have seen tremendous interest from visitors and guests. “People do comment that they see them as art, and they really think they’re beautiful,” said Williams. “We’ve had very, very positive reactions through throughout the garden spaces.”

“We’ve gotten so many questions, and they have sparked a lot of conversations,” commented Sorensen. “Over and over again in my career I’ve seen that you can flip that light switch on for somebody, especially a gardener, to gardening with empathy. I think that it is surprising how a pile of sticks could lead a gardener to question and reevaluate and reimagine everything that’s possible in their own landscape just by shifting their practices a little bit. It creates more curiosity and really gets people thinking.”

Keeping dead wood gives the landscape a sense of age and permanence. “You’re creating memories and layers of history,” said Presley. “It’s very comforting to look at an old stump and remember when it was a tree and it adds such a nice visual patina. Because it’s really important to remember how all of these plants tried so hard during their lifetime to work for us and provide shade and capture moisture and provide beauty. We should be able to, once they’re dead, also find ways to continue to honor them and recognize their contribution by keeping them close and putting them a position where we’re able to remember their contributions in their death as well as in their life.”

Exploring The Fall Color Palette

Merlot in the Garden

Well, that topic title might have caught your attention! Unfortunately, this article isn’t about wine pairings out in a garden setting although perhaps that will be a topic for another time. Instead, I’d like to focus on the importance of the deep maroons, burgundies, mahogany, merlot and other dark tones, specifically provided by foliage, that should be readily available in our design considerations. Our growers and suppliers have been excellent with providing a wide range of woody plants, perennials and annuals with that deep, rich, sultry foliage which can add significant depth and interest in the garden when used appropriately. In my design work over the last 35 years, I can’t think of a landscape in which I haven’t incorporated some type of merlot-foliaged tree or shrub. For the sake of discussing this color range throughout the article, I’ll refer to “merlot” although that will certainly include the range of deep reds, maroons, burgundy and near-black options. A question that has always confused my clients when

we’re talking about foundation plants is my inquiry regarding the color of their home. “Are you sticking with the beige siding? If you repaint the home, will you stick to the powder blue tones?”. I clarify that my interest is knowing the backdrop or foil color before considering woody plants and how they will be displayed to the best effect. Without a doubt, lighter structures in the grays, tans, white, light yellow and light blue really become excellent, non-living contributors to the foundation design by letting merlot-foliage woody plants really pop. If clients have a darker home (maroon, dark blue, etc.), I would be leaning towards golden and chartreuse selections that take advantage of that backdrop. Merlotfoliage plants, while excellent as accents or focal points, will really maximize their contributions when combined with lighter foliage plants or bright flowers that play off the deep red tones of the foliage. These dark colors can be dramatic and dominant, hence their appropriate place-

Exploring The Fall Color Palette

ment. Perennials with darker foliage also have the benefit of combining well with a wide range of neighbors but can be lost visually when isolated or not paired with more vivid companion plants. How many merlot-toned coral bells (Heuchera) are out there, right!? There is a reason for that although their best use isn’t simply the “plunk and run” approach. Combining them with painted ferns, silver Brunnera and other lighter “pals” are good pairings. Thoughtful placement is indeed vital for all merlot-foliage plantings

I get a kick out of reading color descriptions which are typically utilized when marketing paint colors or fashion items. Not being known for any skill with painting (or fashion sense), I look to the range of colorful plant foliage being as important as flower details. I could be writing a similar article on the impact of gold and chartreuse in the garden but merlot is certainly a dominant color and one that I use often but carefully. Color descriptions for this range of colors will include references to sophistication, pas-

sion, warmth, strength, richness and a sense of luxury. Merlot is frequently described as a “solemn hue with a refined manner.” That’s a fancy description. I would simply say that a landscape lacking in well-placed merlot foliage plants is simply missing solid anchoring which can take the garden and landscape to the next level.

Merlot in the garden tends to recede visually which makes brighter colors come forward. This doesn’t mean that it always has to be a backdrop or secondary element. These dark tones, by adding visual depth, make small spaces seem larger. The repetition of these darker tones woven throughout the landscape can also unify a composition and draw the eye throughout the landscape with rich, intentional “color echoes”. I ran across a very relevant quote about this color range that is appropriate to share. “Burgundy (merlot) foliage reads like a shadow and accentuates the shape and volume of neighboring plants.” This is entirely true.

Exploring The Fall Color Palette

Merlot foliage is most conspicuous in full sun situations and with selections that maintain their “color integrity”. There are many woody plants and perennials that have very deep, merlot foliage in spring which then fades or becomes green with the heat of summer. It’s not that those plants don’t have merit in our designs but the continuation of the merlot tones throughout the growing season is a worthy goal. With merlot foliage harder to see in more shade (i.e. the dark Heuchera mentioned above), the importance of combining plants that take advantage of proximity is vital as is combining plants with similar cultural needs. Infusing the shadier garden with these darker foliage perennials and woodies can be effective in making those lighter colors really pop.

When combining colors in the landscape, there is frequent reference to both “hot” and “cool” colors. Whites and silvers are in a category of their own as unifying plants. Plants in a hot theme include those presenting yellow, orange and red. The cooler tones are represented by blues, green and merlot. Tones of merlot have a calming effect visually and can also balance a composition that might be leaning too heavily into that “hot” range. Sometimes that pizzazz of bright colors is intentional but the immediate visual serenity offered by merlot-foliage plants is evident when utilized, particularly in combinations, borders and even containers.

I still get excited when seeing the emerging foliage of ‘Crimson King’ Norway maple (Acer

platanoides) in spring. While perhaps not the best street tree species, the massive, 60’+ tall specimens in my neighborhood in Wisconsin are mesmerizing. Certainly overplanted but absolutely gorgeous are the purpleleaf sand cherries (Prunus x cistena) found commonly throughout Midwest landscapes. Topping out at about 8’ and getting a bit scraggly with time, it’s exciting to see the new compact selection, Stay Classy® (‘UCONNPCSDR’) which gets 4’ wide and tall. Those common plants add a striking dimension to the landscape and as you’re walking down the nursery rows at your local growers, the numerous merlot-foliage cultivars of ninebarks (Physocarpus), elderberries (Sambucus) and weigelas

(Weigela) are evident. These three genera continue to see vast breeding efforts to include increasingly more compact forms and those with even darker foliage. The ninebarks are a great example in that I remember Diabolo® (‘Monlo’) being the hot, new, maroon foliage selection 25 years ago, albeit quite large at 10’ tall and wide (I still love it!).

Breeding of ninebarks has created dozens of selections including increasingly smaller merlotfoliage options that are perfect under window height (3-4’) along the foundation. I should note that I’m wary of Japanese barberries (Berberis thunbergii), despite their vigor and hardiness, for their propensity to spread by seed. However, there are now some sterile selections to include merlot foliage varieties.

Merlot tones can be found in many larger woody plants like smokebush (Cotinus sp.). I’ve grown ‘Royal Purple’ for decades and am dabbling with many of the more compact selections as well. I really enjoy seeing the ‘Purple Haze’ filbert (Corylus hybrida) in spring but as noted earlier, this is a selection that loses the intensity of maroon with the arrival of summer heat. There are some merlot-foliage contorted filbert selections as well. Seeing any of the merlot-foliage, European beech (Fagus sylvatica) selections is always a treat, particularly when running across an older specimen. There are many darker selections to include upright, contorted, weeping and spreading forms. My favorites include ‘Red Obelisk’ and ‘Purple Fountain’. Their slow growth rate is frustrating but their impact (and longevity) in the landscape is inspiring. Some cra-

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bapples (Malus) and many other species and hybrids of maples exhibit rich tones of merlot throughout the growing season. They aren’t hard to identify at the nursery!

Perennials and annuals with merlot foliage contribute to the landscape in the exact same way as the larger, woody specimens but on more of a micro-scale. All the caveats of combining these darker selections with neighbors that exhibit lighter foliage and/or bright flower holds true. There are so many wonderful varietal selections of common herbaceous genera that merlot range of foliage. One has only to explore sedums, hibiscus, penstemon, astilbe, coral bells and much more. Using penstemon as an example, I rarely plant any green-leaf forms when I continue to see amazing, dark-leaf forms that offer that rich depth from emergence to hard

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frost due to the foliage, notwithstanding the beautiful flowers and showy seed heads. Again, the repetition of merlotfoliage perennials can really unify a composition and slow the eye by giving it a calm, resting spot. In the same landscape, the play between all of the merlot-foliage selections offers a combined effect and striking dimension to any size landscape.

This winter and next spring, make a concerted effort to explore the vast range of merlot-toned plants for the garden. By creating depth and contrast, “merlot in the garden” can be infused into our spaces easily and effectively and like the finest of wines, add beauty and class.

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Problem Solving Natives: Shrubs For Fall Color

Maple trees might dominate the autumn show, but don’t forget the shrub layer for a rich plunder of crisp golds, bronzes, reds, and purples. Our native shrub species are prized the world over for their fabulous fall show. Plus, native shrubs offer impressive structure, shelter for wildlife, food for caterpillars, and sheer gorgeousness for us. In this three-part series, we’ll look at species for pollinators, birds, and autumn splendor. Check out the choices below for shrubs that feature spectacular fall color. As you pull together plant lists, take a look at these native shrubs to add layers of diversity, interesting architecture and food for our animal compatriots.

For the Beauty

We’ve been extolling the virtues of native shrubs that feed pollinators and birds, but what sometimes gets left out of the conversation is just how beautiful they are. From elegant flowers to scene-stealing fall color to artful architecture, our native shrubs give us layers upon layers of loveliness in our landscapes. While they may not be as brassy as a Rose of Sharon or Knock Out rose, they deserve their place in the band playing a many-textured sonata from the back deck. Check out these six selections which feature fantastic fall color, but also can be used as screening, hedges or plant as companion specimens.

American Hazelnut (Corylus americana) American hazelnut will elbow its way into a hedge by suckering freely in ideal conditions. This large, fast-growing native shrub is easy-going in full sun to part shade and average soils. In late winter, elegant blonde catkins elongate up to 3 to 4 inches and catch the eye in the low light of an early morning. Sweet, edible nuts follow in ruffled husks, assuming you can beat the squirrels to them. In fall, the large, coarse leaves turn sunset shades from apricot to roan russet. Allow it room to roam on large sites or ruthlessly prune it into elegance in small spaces. American hazelnut won’t mind. As a reward for planting this interesting shrub, you’ll be treated to a bevy of moths who use it as a larval host as well as early hairstreak butterflies. American hazel is also home to common walkingstick insects, one of our more charismatic large bugs.

Bush Honeysuckle (Diervilla lonicera)

Despite its common name, bush honeysuckle isn’t a true Lonicera, but its flowers do resemble its cousin. This low rambler of a shrub thrives in full sun to full shade and average to dry soils. It’s excellent for dry shade and holding slopes as it will slowly sucker and knit together. Small clusters of sulfur yellow flowers appear in July into August much to the delight of pollinators from bees to butterflies to hummingbirds. In fall, its dark green leaves turn fiery shades of orange and red, with best color in a sunny spot. Snowberry clearwing moths that resemble tiny hummingbirds use it as a larval host. Weave this no-fuss shrub through open woodlands; use it as an anchor in shade vignettes, or as plant as a companion to hosta and ferns.

Witch Hazel (Hamamelis virginiana)

On a crisp October morning, what could be prettier than low autumn light through the large ruffled golden leaves of witch hazel? The scent, of course! Our native witch hazel bewitches spooky season with its spidery yellow fragrant flowers blooming away as it turns color. Those ribboned flowers often bloom well into November after leaves have fallen, giving us a reason to cut twigs for indoor arrangements. Witch hazel is a big, 15-foot vase-shaped beauty that can be woven into hedges or thoughtfully pruned into an elegant specimen for winter architecture. Happy in sun to part shade, it even tolerates heavy clay. Witch hazel is also a larval host to a long list of moths with some fascinating names such as alien probole and figure-seven moth.

Native Knowledge

Virginia Sweetspire (Itea virginica)

Although native to the southern counties of Illinois, Virginia sweetspire is certainly hardy enough to tough out our Midwestern winters. At about 3 to 5 feet, sweetspire blends easily into perennial borders, foundation plantings, and layered landscape designs. It has a loose, cascading habit including the long white fragrant flowers that bloom in July. Sweetspire loves moist soil but will tolerate a wide range and grows in full sun to full shade. There are several cultivars that have been selected for size or increased bloom. In late fall, it steps into the limelight with rich redpurple fall color that lasts for weeks and weeks as leaves are slow to drop until spring. Pollinators visit for nectar, but sweetspire’s flexibility in siting makes it a valuable addition to the plant palette.

The wild ecotype of ninebark is a large arching shrub with bright green lobed leaves and globular clusters of white flowers along the stems that become handsome clusters of mahogany seeds. There are numerous cultivars that have been developed for smaller size and showier foliage colors from chartreuse to purple. Ninebark is a laid back, easygoing shrub that does best in full sun to part shade and is very drought tolerant. It has also been found to have phytoremediation applications as the leaves grab pollutants from the air. Shaggy peeling bark adds winter interest. In fall, the foliage is aflame with yellow, peach, and orange tones while the ornamental seeds persist. A handful of moths will dine on the leaves while pollinators enjoy the flowers. Add ninebark to a mixed hedge; allow it to ramble on a large site, or use a cultivar as a foundation shrub. Don’t hesitate to rejuvenation prune every few years if they get out of bounds.

Ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius)

Blackhaw Viburnum (Viburnum prunifolium)

Viburnums are practical, workhorse plants for our landscapes. Before the arrival of viburnum leaf beetle, you could find arrowwood viburnum everywhere. Fortunately, blackhaw is not a favorite of that destructive pest, although will get nibbled here and there. Blackhaw is a large shrub at 12 to 15 feet, and you’ll also find it trained as a small tree. It has a dense, twiggy habit that makes it ideal as a screening shrub. Flat clusters of sweetly fragrant creamy white flowers bloom in May to the joy of pollinators before becoming black drupes beloved by birds. In fall, blackhaw turns a rich purplered, making it a fabulous companion for evergreens, grasses and yellow-leaved shrubs. Full sun to full shade, wet to dry, blackhaw is tough as nails. As with most shrubs, the more sun it receives, the better the fall color. In addition to being a big, handsome fellow, spring/summer azure and Baltimore butterflies use it as a larval host as well as a huge list of moths.

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Native Knowledge

Five native conifers

While most of our native shrubs are deciduous, we do have a handful of conifers that call Illinois home. These five species are either naturally shrubs or have shrub cultivars that are readily available. Conifers provide critical food and shelter for our wildlife, but they also give us layers of beautiful texture in every season. Weave these choices through beds for winter interest and summer architecture.

Common Juniper (Juniperus communis depressa)
Creeping Juniper (Juniperus horizontalis)
White Pine (Pinus strobus)
Bald cypress (Taxodium distichum)
Arborvitae (Thuja occidentalis)

Problem Solving Natives: Fantastic Fall-Blooming Flowers

Mums sell, right? But what if you could offer clients long-blooming perennial color that delights the eye and feeds some wildlife along the way? We are lucky to have several fall-blooming native perennials that give us big flower power into October, and some can bloom past Thanksgiving. Let’s dive into some hardy species that will dress up the autumn garden and add gorgeous layers of beauty as trees, shrubs, and grasses change into their fall finery.

Crazy for Daisies

Many of the fall heavy hitters are found in Asteraceae or the daisy family. We’re all deeply familiar with purple coneflowers and black-eyed Susans, but this huge plant family houses more than those favorites. Asters and goldenrods muscle their way to the foreground in the fall. We are blessed with a plethora of species of each, but I like these for their easygoing nature, well-behaved stature and durability. Plus, asters and goldenrods are key pollinator plants as last pit stops for many insect species before hibernation and migration.

Heath Aster (Symphyotrichum ericoides)

An edge-of-the-border plant, reaching only 12 to 16 inches. Weave it along driveways, patios and around mailboxes where its full sun, drought-tolerant nature will thrive. It then rewards you with a tightly packed cloud of tiny white flowers often through October. Symphyotrichum oblongifolium, or aromatic aster, is a knee-high rounded perennial that will be dense with lavender-purple flowers. Plant it in full sun where you can brush against its spicy fragrant foliage. For shade gardens, Eurybia macrophylla, or large-leaved aster, prefers part to full shade. Tuck it in where its aptly named coarse leaves can form tidy mounds. In September, 18-inch flower stems are decked with showy delicate daisy flowers in pale blue to violet.

Goldenrods reflect the low hazy light of late September in their starry yellow flowers. Oligoneuron rigidum, or stiff goldenrod, is an easygoing, full sun upright species with broader leaves. Its large head of densely packed florets will be buzzing with bees. For a sunny wet site, try Oligoneuron ohioense, or Ohio goldenrod, which is slightly smaller and quite happy in moist clay soils. In the shade garden, Solidago flexicaulis, or zigzag goldenrod, thrives in part to full shade and isn’t fussy about soils. In dry shade it will be shorter, but usually it’s knee-high with large, toothed deep-green leaves and dark stems. In September into November, its upright racemes will be dotted with small clusters of sulfur yellow blossoms.

Native Knowledge

Although it tends to fly under the radar, nothing beats Helenium autumnale, or sneezeweed, for cheerful free-flowering bright yellow daisies at about waist height. This charmer loves wet soils but is quite adaptable as long as it has a bit of moisture. Blooming well into October, try it with switch grass and obedient plant for a dazzling fall combination.

Autumn Blues

While we gravitate towards yellow, orange and red in the fall, several of our native wildflowers tempt us with shades of blue and purple. Interplanted with sunny colors, cool shades play up the sunset tones and cool off the combination. Nothing is quite like the true-blue flowers of Gentiana andrewsii, or closed gentian. Clusters of closed flowers bloom brilliant azure in October on 18-inch upright stems that turn purple as temperatures cool. Easy-going in average to wet soils, the last bumblebees will force their way in for its rich nectar.

Conoclinum coelestinum, or blue mistflower, resembles an ageratum on steroids. At 18 to 36 inches, it features clouds of poofy lavender blue flowers from July through October. In wet soils, it may reseed, but try it in average clay to limit its spreading tendencies. Or plant it in the bottom of the rain garden and let it be swarming with pollinators.

Looking for romantic lavender in part shade? Look no further than Eutrochium purpureum, or Joe Pye weed. This tall edge-of-the-woodland native blooms July through September and is usually covered in bees and butterflies. While happy in average soils, it will also cheerfully tolerate a wet spot.

Native Knowledge

For a more intense purple, consider Vernonia fasciculata, or prairie ironweed. With stiff stems reaching up to 5 feet, this tough native is adaptable to any soil. Its vivid clusters of flowers easily weave through perennial beds for a final flourish in fall.

Bee-loved for Pollinators

Do your clients deserve more bee butts? Of course they do. With a diversity of flower types in the garden, you’ll experience bees galore as well as a bevy of other important pollinators. Take advantage of the soaring concern and interest in these insects by providing a wealth of floral resources.

Chelone glabra, or turtlehead, features dark-green coarsely-toothed leaves on stiff stems reaching knee height. Happy in full sun to part shade, chelone does best in moist to wet soils. In late July, tall white flower spikes with showy tubular flowers arrive and bloom their heads off through September. See bee butts galore as bumbles shoulder their way in for rich nectar rewards.

If tubular flowers are lacking in your plant palette, another choice might be Physostegia virginiana, or obedient plant. Large spikes of clear pink tubular flowers bloom on 3 to 4-foot stems in late July through September. Easy going and tolerant of a wide range of light and moisture, obedient plant is named for its distinctive flowers. Each floret may be moved individually and will obediently stay once placed. This charming habit makes it fun to play with, and hummingbirds will flock to it.

Chill down your hot summer perennial combinations with the icy silver bracts of Pycnanthemum muticum, or blunt mountain mint. While rabbits and deer avoid it, it will be buzzing with a wide range of small pollinators well into October. Leave the dried stems up for a silvery addition to the late fall garden as snow catches in the dried seedheads. Happiest in full sun, it pairs beautifully with pastels and cools hot colors.

Don’t let your designs languish in fall when there are so many wonderful native plants that add weeks and weeks of flower power. Layer them with grasses, shrubs, and evergreens for a rich autumnal experience. Consider leaving stems and dried foliage in place for late fall and winter interest as well as dried bouquets.

Before You Go...

Bottle Gentian — A Late Season Star

In late September of 2010, I found myself touring the a botanic garden — one of my favorite places for ideas and inspiration. I was walking along a partly shaded, woodland edge and noted some blue flowers that I knew weren’t asters. Upon closer inspection, my first exposure to the closed bottle gentian (Gentiana andrewsii) was quite memorable. Seeing the rich blue color on those bottle-shaped flowers so late in the season piqued my interest in acquiring and growing this plant after I had positive identification. Admittedly, my track record with the genus Gentiana has not been exceptional until I pulled this native species into my “design quiver”! There are other species of bottle gentians, but this one is by far my favorite. It is also called Andrew’s gentian and closed gentian. This species is native across a broad mass of Northeastern North America. Slow growing but long-lived, bottle gentian will naturalize into clumps and require little care once established in appropriate settings. Hardy in USDA

zones 3-7, this species is best grown in moist, rich, cool, loamy, well-drained soils in part sun. Full sun is acceptable if consistent moisture is available. Flood plain forests, thickets, fens and wet, mesic prairies are prime locations for bottle gentian. Reaching 12-24 inches in height, this perennial is a bit lax in habit (floppy) when in bloom but holds up well with “supportive neighbors”. The ovate, lance-shaped leaves display a sheen on the upper leaf surface.

The flowers (1-1.5 inches long) are quite interesting independent of their welcome blue color in early fall (August – October). The intensity of blue can be variable depending upon the maturity of the flowers. Occasionally, pink and white flowers are observed with this species. The closed flowers are primarily clustered at the top of the unbranched stems although blooms can also be observed at the upper leaf axils. The top set of leaves is arranged in a whorled pattern and supports a cluster of flowers at the top. The pleated flowers have a small fringe

around the closed top. In essence, only the strongest of bees can access the nectar in these closed flowers. Bumblebees are considered the primary pollinator as they can “muscle” into the flowers by forcing the corolla open to crawl inside, sip nectar and ensure pollen transfer and successful pollination. Bottle gentian has no serious insect or disease problems. deer do occasionally take a nibble of flower buds.

Since my fateful encounter with Gentiana andrewsii in 2010, I’ve planted hundreds of bottle gentians in partial shade situations with ample moisture. My intention is to not only incorporate a native species but certainly to rely on the contribution of late-season blue flowers. The unique appearance of this perennial is noteworthy and striking. I do combine it with sedges, ferns and other neighbors that will help support the potentially floppy stems. While this plant can be staked, I like letting it meld into the composition and provide not only late season beauty but a workout for our sturdiest pollinators!

MARKETPLACE

Landscaping
— Mark Ahronian

Special Announcement

pro grow news Committment to Qualtiy

The Massachsetts Nursery and Landscape Association has a long history of innnovation. pro|grow|news is simply a reflection of MNLA and its position in the industry. Its purpose is to promote the environmental well-being of the state as well as the highest levels of business ethics within the profession.

pro|grow|news readers and advertisers will see:

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• more features

• greater variety

• focused issue content

• on-time delivery

• seasonal content and ads delivered on time.

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Four Seasons Guide

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Quercus rubra — Northern Red Oak

Why This Plant Shines

To me, the Northern Red Oak will always be special because I was married under a very large one. That’s one testament to its function in the landscape as a landmark, place of sentimentality, and legacy. It is adaptable and resilient. In an open setting, it can stand alone as a statement. Its form is dense, wide, tall, and offers a shaded space beneath that is enjoyable to sit under and look above into the branching of the canopy. It is important, when planting a large tree like this, to consider the location of underground and overhead utilities, as well as foundations of buildings. It prefers well-drained, acidic soils. Once established, they fare well even in dry conditions. I haven’t designed one into a landscape yet, but I am hoping to get that opportunity.

Facts and Features

Northern Red Oaks are native to the Eastern coast of North America, including both the United States and Canada. It is a keystone species, preventing erosion, offering habitat, and

providing food to a variety and abundance of animals. Acorns, leaves, buds, and twigs are all sources of food to animals that benefit from the Northern Red Oak. It goes without saying that its foliage in the fall is a stunning red.

Amber Ahronian, MCH

Ahronian Landscaping & Design, Inc.

Holliston, MA

Scientific Name: Quercus rubra

Common Name: Northern Red Oak

Exposure: Full sun

Plant Type: Tree

Size: Height 60-75 ft / Width, 50-75 ft

Soil: Average Zone: 3 to 8

Growth Rate: Fast

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