End NEW IN TOWN
THE ART OF BARBEQUE Trapp Haus BBQ brings smoked meats with urban flair to Roosevelt Row
BY NICOLE HEHL
Barbecue lovers can now indulge their desire for that slow-cooked, smoky, meaty goodness at Trapp Haus BBQ in Downtown Phoenix. But don’t expect Texas, Tennessee or South Carolina style here; this award-winning barbecue boasts urban flair with roots in New York. Owner and pitmaster, Phil Johnson takes a mixed approach to barbecue, calling himself a “freestyle barbecue-ist.” The self-taught chef grew up in the Bronx, often beside his mom and grandma in the kitchen, but it was the love of Sunday football backyard barbecues that drew him to the grill. “What I like is that you don’t have to be from Memphis or Texas to make good barbecue,” Johnson explains. “You can be the backyard guy.” And what makes good barbecue? According to Johnson, it’s the love you put into it. This freestyling, heart-led approach to cooking has earned him a shelf full of trophies from the Kansas City Barbecue Society and a loyal following of his food trucks, Sammitch and Phil the Grill. Johnson’s unconventional cooking style is a perfect fit for the creativity of the
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Roosevelt Row (RoRo) arts district. “It just feels like home to me,” Johnson says of the area. “It feels like I cut this place out right from downtown SoHo in Manhattan and put it here in Phoenix.” Inside the New York-inspired space, guests are welcomed by a burnt-wood bar, which Johnson fired himself, juxtaposed with a wall of pristine white subway tile. The energy and talent of the arts district decorate the walls with vibrant murals by local artists, including one depicting Johnson’s barbecue journey from SoHo to RoRo. In the intimate dining room, belly up to counter seating along the wall, grab a hightop table, or choose a spot on the patio. While the setting is a slice of downtown, the experience has the familiarity of an everyday cookout and reflects the lazy Sundays at home that inspired him. The menu also offers a taste of comfort. Traditionalists can tuck into a barbecue platter ($11-$16), with choices including hickory-smoked brisket or Applewoodsmoked St. Louis ribs, alongside cheesy jalapeno grits, crispy waffle fries or other delicious sides. Or, discover the craveable creations popularized by the Phil the Grill food truck, including the Philly Crack Wings ($8), smoked, fried and tossed in Johnson’s addictive seasoning and sauce, and the Mac Roll ($6), a deep-fried egg roll filled with an ingenious pairing of juicy brisket and smoked mac and cheese. The “heroes” from Sammitch also appear on the menu with the addition of an authentic New York Hot Pastrami ($10), a homemade Reuben-style sandwich. From the bar, drinks are not an afterthought with a selection of local craft beer and complimenting smoke-infused bourbon. Trapp Haus is open Tuesday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. or until sold out; Sunday from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m., including “Soul Brunch” from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m. Located at 511 E Roosevelt St., Phoenix; 602.466.5462; www.trapphausbbq.com.