Curly Hair Magazine

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International Edition

The African Fashion Takeover You Have Been Waiting for

Your Hair



Hair & Beauty Advice



DIY Hair Care & Beauty Products GET THE LUPITA LOOK

Editor’s Letter Hello and welcome to the first ever edition of Curly Hair Magazine! We’re so honoured you picked us up for all your natural hair and beauty advice this month. So why now for a magazine dedicated to natural hair? We’ll it’s about time don’t you think? We wanted to bring together the best of the world of natural hair - bloggers, products, images and style advice for the best of the business because really, who’s got time to do all that research themselves? No one! My own natural hair journey has been firstly an accidental one - I did the big chop because I got bored of straight hair - no other reason. I now wear Marley twists because they look awesome and I love big hair! As your Ed, I think it’s time we took out the politics and snobbery from the natural hair world. You want to wear a relaxer - good for you girl! Just make sure your hair is healthy from within. That goes for us naturalistas too. Practise what you preach - healthy hair is more important than your curl pattern or lack thereof. We hope you LOVE our first issue as much as we do. Please email us or tweet us to let you know what you think. This is YOUR magazine so get

Love and big hair, Afua


Afua moved to London from Glasgow at aged 17 to study journalism at City University. After specialising in broadcast and music, Afua found herself working at T4 and PopWorld before moving on to the dizzy heights of 60 Minute Makeover on ITV. She grew bored of decorating strangers’ homes in an hour or under and made the leap to music publishing where she worked for Blue Mountain Music under the watchful and legendary eye of Chris Blackwell. After styling a few bands for the label, she realised this was her passion and left music to freelance as a stylist and writer.

She styled for Rhian Benson, Terri Walker and The Def Jam Comedy Tour as well as many ‘normal’ clients before landing a job at Blackhair as Editorial Assistant. Afua rose to Editor after only a year and left to be Features Editor for Pride and Fashion and Beauty Contributor for New African Woman. She continues to style shoots and clients as well as write news and features, hair, fashion, beauty, women’s interest and conducts celebrity interviews. In her spare time she likes to make cushion covers, CURLY HAIRHAIR MAGAZINE CURLY MAGAZINE 2have manicures and take long walks by the canal.”

Contributor’s Appreciation Rachael Twumasi Co-Founding Director of Afrocenchix


@afrocenchix _________________________ Grace Opeyokun Head Makeup Artist


@graceannemakeup _________________________ Valley Fontaine BBC Broadcast Journalist and Natural Hair Blogger w @hair_valley

_________________________ Dami Abajingin Freelance journalist by day and Editor-in-chief of Valour magazine by night Twitter: @dami_abajingin _________________________

Hannah Ajala Freelance Journalist & Trainee at BBC Radio 2 w


Mrs Oreoluwa Alidor Natural Hair Blogger and Product mixologist _________________________

Rhics Group Curly Hair Magazine Designers w @RhicsWebStudios




























Our resident Trichologist breaks down the makeup of black hair and the best way to love your hair


When your kitchen will do, our guide on making moisture whip to lavish on your hair

Our handy guide to making your own protein deep conditioner

Hair trends from our favourite salons

How African fashion is reshaping the fashion world

Meet fashions newest revolution and the lady behind it

How African fashion is reshaping the fashion world

One of the UK’s top hair bloggers allows us into her home



BEAUTY AND HAIR ‘BEST BUYS’ Our guide to some of our favourite products



The naturals we love to follow across social media



How to grow long healthy hair

Expert advice on maintaining your locks

Get the Lupita look with ease


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We have selected some of our favourite products to get you through the summer months. Whether it be new makeup finds or ways to keep your hair moisturised, we have got you covered.

Editor’s Pick

MeMeMe moonlight Eyeshadow If you have seen our Instagram page you know that we have fallen in love with the MeMeMe cosmetics range. We have hand selected our favourite eye shadows from the range, you can thank us later. These cute little pots retail for: RRP ÂŁ7.25 Purchase from



Hallow Haze Eyeshadow

Free from Frizz

We have hand selected our favourite eye shadows from the MeMeMe cosmetic range, you can thank us later. RRP £7.25

The Free From Frizz range are great value for money and can help give hair a temporary straighten without the fuss. 300ml RRP £5.99

Purchase from

Purchase from local boots store or

Purchase from MIZANI retailers worldwide or

Shampoo by Leonor Greyl

MIZANI Butter Rich Deep Nourishing Hairdress

Leonor Greyl Masque Quintessence

RRP £12.90

200ml RRP £77.52

Purchase from MIZANI retailers worldwide or

Purchase from Urban Retreat at Harrods, Selfridges (shop) and online. Cult Beauty online, John Bell & Croydon

State of the art washing washing creme for very dry, colour treated or brittle hair. 200ml RRP £18.29 Purchase from or

If you don’t love the ‘Rose’ you will love this butter rich version. We loved both and couldn’t decide.

MIZANI Rose H2O Conditioning

Style your hair and add moisture at the same time, we are not complaining. RRP £12.99

Revitalises, regenerates, repairs damaged hair and adds moisture back to damaged dehydrated locks





Moisture Whip

Ingredients »»

½ a cup of Unrefined Shea Butter at Room Temperature


1 tablespoon Coconut Oil


1 tablespoon Olive Oil


1 tablespoon Castor Oil


1 Jojoba Oil


½ tsp Vitamin E

Steps 1 . Place all contents in a bowl and using an electric whisk whip until smooth. 2 . Then place in a clean container and apply when needed.



Natural haircare products that work. No harsh parabens. No artiicial fragrances.

Advertise on Curly Hair Magazine Curly Hair Magazine is the first ‘FREE’ natural hair magazine in the UK, created for women with “Curly, Coily and Kinky hair”. We are partnering with the UK’s most popular bloggers to bring the natural hair market into one place. Working with brands and advertisers to create a unique platform in print, digital and online. To find out more about Curly Hair Magazine or how to advertise please get in touch, we will also provide our Ad Schedule and specifications when contacted

Advertising Team

Advertising Managers Sandra Lewis

Contact us for a media pack today! ISSUE 1 - AUGUST 2015



Black Hair The


It is said that “a woman’s hair is her glory� and for many of us hair certainly has an emotional and cultural meaning. We may feel good on a good hair day but lose our confidence when our hair is being uncooperative.


or some ladies, wearing Senagalese twists or Ghana braids is an important means of cultural expression. Whatever hair means to you, we all want hair that is well moisturised and capable of being styled as we so desire. Understanding a little science and refuting some common myths can help us get there. This article will focus on the protein packed cortex and how this is relevant for moisture and styling. Next time we will look at the cuticle and tips for length retention. All hair is made of protein. Each strand has a cortex and a cuticle, in coarse hair a medulla is always present too. The strength, elasticity, shape and structure of the hair depends on the cortex. The cuticle is the protective layer of overlapping keratin scales that lay over each strand to protect the protein of the cortex beneath. This is the same for all hair. Differences in hair shape and colour are because of the amount of melanin pigment in the cortex (for colour) and the shape of the cuticle (for shape.) Different ethnicities are characterised by slight differences in hair colour and shape. For those of African descent hair is typically black, thick and curly.The proteins in hair are made up of long chains of amino acids joined by peptide bonds. Long chains of these peptide bonds 8


are called polypeptide chains. The polypeptide chains are in turn joined by side bonds. (Bear with me, this will all become relevant soon!) There are three types of side bonds: salt bonds, hydrogen bonds, and disulfide bonds and these are the things we change to style our hair. Disulfide bonds are fewer, but are much stronger and give the hair a lot of its strength. Relaxers break these bonds to change the amount of curl. In day to day styling salt and hydrogen bonds are relevant as these are the most common in our hair and are weak. This means they are easily broken and reformed by heat and moisture. The weakness of these bonds allowsthe use of wet roller sets and curling or flat irons to change the amount of curl in the hair. As easily as these bonds can be broken and formed for styling, they can be re-broken which is why straightened afro textured hair will revert and why many say black hair is allergic to water! In truth some water is essential for simple styling and that is why water based products work best. As the strength of the hair comes from the hydrogen bond packed cortex and styling relies on breaking and reforming these bonds it is important to keep the hair moisturised. Here are some tried and tested tips:

By Rachael Twumasi Co-Founding Director of Afrocenchix Limited


All hair is made of protein. Each strand has a cortex and a cuticle, in coarse hair a medulla is always present too. The strength, elasticity, shape and structure of the hair depends on the cortex.

Š Javiindy - Black Woman, Afro Hairstyle, In The City Photo

1. Drink More Water Health starts on the inside and our bodies are great at letting us know what we need, so drink whenever you are thirsty. The precise amount you need depends on your size and activity levels but the classic estimate of 8 large glasses of water a day is a good place to start.

the moisture it needs during the week in order to stay healthy and manageable. If you use a homemade mixture ensure you use

4. Seal the moisture in Water will evaporate from your hair as easily as it entered it so use an oil to lock it in.

2. Avoid coffee and fizzy drinks

5. Invest in a good hair moisturiser

These addictive drinks can lead to dehydration. For every caffeinated beverage you drink aim to have two cups of water to rebalance your body.

3. Spray water in your hair Spray your hair liberally in the morning and night with a water based humectant blend. This ensures that your hair gets

for fungus and bacteria.

bottles can be a breeding ground for fungus and bacteria.

a gentle preservative or change the water every week as spritz and spray bottles can be a breeding ground

If your hair gets particularly dry use a good water based moisturiser before applying oil to seal in moisture from your water based spritz.



Deep Conditioner

Say hello to moisturised hair with our recipe Ingredients »»

1 cup of aloe vera juice


½ a can of whole coconut milk


¼ cup of olive oil


¼ cup of honey.




Place all ingredients in a blender and blend. Once it is at a smooth consistency pour into a container and apply to freshly washed and detangled hair.


Leave in for a minimum of 30 minutes with a plastic cap to retain heat.


Rinse with lukewarm water and moisturise and style as usual.



Salon Guide Hair by Five for Hype Coiffure London Hype Coiffure locations can be found at Follow them on Instagram @HypecoiffureUK



Hair by Natalie Joseph for Hype Coiffure London Hype Coiffure locations can be found at Follow them on Instagram @HypecoiffureUK ISSUE 1 - AUGUST 2015


Hair by Dami for Ideal Ladies Mobile hairdressers across London find out more on their Instagram page @IdealLadies


Hair by Five for Hype Coiffure London Hype Coiffure locations can be found at Follow them on Instagram @HypecoiffureUK

Hair by Dami for Ideal Ladies Mobile hairdressers across London find out more on their Instagram page @IdealLadies



Hair by Dami for Ideal Ladies Mobile hairdressers across London find out more on their Instagram page @IdealLadies ISSUE 1 - AUGUST 2015


Hair by Dami for Ideal Ladies Mobile hairdressers across London find out more on their Instagram page @IdealLadies

Hair by Kim Johnson and Michelle Sultan for Hype Coiffure London Hype Coiffure locations can be found at Follow them on Instagram @HypecoiffureUK


The rise and rise of

African Fashion From the Nigerian Fashion Project ‘Ndani’ at Selfridges back in 2012, to African Fashion Week in London this August over the years we have seen African inspired apparel make its mark in the mainstream fashion world. Fashion enthusiast Dami Abajingin explores the trend for Curly Hair Magazine.


one are the days when Ankara was relegated to the back of the wardrobe only seeing the light of day on the rarest of occasions. This print, and indeed many other African prints (notice the plural, no reductionism over here), has become so ubiquitous that going a day without seeing it in all its geometric glory is now a rarity. Michelle Obama, Beyonce, Rihanna, Gwen Stefani, Angela Simmons, Anna Wintour and the queen of Africool Solange Knowles have all stepped out in creations inspired by authentic African attire; signalling a new epoch where African prints have become a permanent fixture in the mainstream fashion world. Kente, Batik, Hollandais wax print, animal print and a plethora of many others have been seen on catwalks the world over. Louis Vuitton, Tory Burch, Stella McCartney, Burberry Prorsum, Michael Kors, Anna Sui and Junya Watanabe have all taken inspiration from the continent of Africa by embracing wax and other prints in their designs. Most recently Givenchy’s Spring 2014 Menswear collection, which Creative Director Riccardo Tisci’s called Nerd Africa, received critical acclaim. The high street has also fallen in love with the bold and beautiful prints found across the motherland. Zara’s 2014 TRF line is awash with the clashing colours of Ankara. There is the delectable ASOS Africa line and Urban Outfitters’ UO Renewal collection goes all Vlisco-esque with Dutch wax this summer. African prints are definitely the commodity of the moment. What exactly has led to this sartorial revolution? Ronke Ademiluyi, founder of Africa Fashion Week London, says: “The new generation of African inspired designers are adding a modern twist to their creativity, using traditional prints to conjure stylish designs that appeal to a global audience, this is pushing our fashion to the forefront.’’

globe, South Africa Fashion Week, will be taking place for its fourth consecutive year this August. Hazel Aggrey-Orleans, the founder of London-based label Eki Orleans welcomes the African permeation in mainstream fashion, she says: “There is definitely an increased interest in African fashion and African designers with international initiatives being undertaken, i.e the ITC Ethical Fashion Initiative and the Selfridges Ndani Project but it is still not enough.’’ The German-Nigerian designer adds: “We have a lot of talent and although there is a growing interest in what is coming out of the continent, I don’t quite believe there is sufficient support yet in getting our designs stocked in international boutiques, as well as press visibility. In order for us to grow, we need to be seen expanding on an international level’’. Ronke agrees: “To get African fashion by African designers at the fore we need to create more distribution channels for our designers and access to funding for them, and allow them to concentrate on doing what they do best, as African fashion, African prints, the ceremonial drapery really inspires the way we dress now. ’’ African fashion by African designers still has a while to go before it receives the same level of acclaim Western designers embracing the prints found on the continent receive. But Africa (her fashion and her designer) is rising and will continue to ensuring that African print becomes a timeless trend.

Her sentiments are shared by Shantel, founder of Mam Maw, a London-based line Maw Maw’s founder Shantel has been heavily inspired by the rich and vibrant cultures of Africa. She says: “When I was growing up it was African wear (for the elders) or Western wear. Today young people have bridged the gap creating a look of their own. I think it’s amazing!’’ So not only have we witnessed the West embrace African prints at an unprecedented level we have also seen a proliferation of African designers. Luxury Nigerian bag label, Zashadu, debuted a limited collection exclusive to London upmarket boutique Wolf & Badger earlier this year. Kenyan designer Adele Dejak recently collaborated with Italian luxury fashion house Salvatore Ferragamo and the Bags for Africa project. Nigerian label Virgos Lounge launched diffusion line V Label London in spring. A slew of African Fashion Weeks have popped up across the MODELS WEARING FASHION BY MAW


Meet Arieta Mujay”

Founder of the African Collective

Arieta Mujay is the fashion PR extraordinaire largely responsible for making the Rihanna and River Island collaboration happen. But she has said her goodbyes to the high street HQ to launch one of the hottest new fashion consultancies around, Africa Creative Collective.The British-Nigerian speaks to Dami Abajingin about her time at River Island and her fabulous career change.


Not one to mince her words she adds, ‘By showing quality collections in accordance to the fashion seasons like the rest of the world most of the stuff I see in the UK and the diaspora has nothing on collections I have seen at Lagos fashion design week and in Mercedes Benz fashion week in SA.

t goes without saying that the fashion industry in Africa is booming. The motherland is emerging as a fashion force to be reckoned with. ‘The growth of the middle classes in Africa has fuelled demand for luxury goods; both home grown and internationally.’ Arieta is aiming to drive this even further with Africa Creative Collective. The London-based showroom offers public relations, promotion, consulting and production to local designers as well as brands who want to go to Africa, allowing Arieta to serve as a nexus in bringing African creativity to the rest of the world.

Everything here is print focused whereas in Africa designers develop their own print and stay away from the WAX/ ANKARA. That’s left to the tailors!’. Breaking ground is something Arieta is used to doing and we are confident she will continue to do so with her latest endeavour.

Her five-year-career at River Island was highly successful, not only did she help make the aforementioned Rihanna and River Island sartorial magic a reality she also helped increase the brand coverage of the high street giant by 80%. So why is she leaving it all behind? ‘To achieve something for myself, my dream of owning my own agency, being a business owner’ she tells me. Not only is the 35-year-old realising her own dream, she is helping others realise theirs too. Less than a year since its inception, ACC has already got many highlights to celebrate, ‘My client Orange Culture was shortlisted for the LVMH Prize out of over 2,000 entries worldwide.’ The impassioned Londoner wants to ensure African designers are valued in all of their multi-faceted glory, which is at the epicentre of all Arieta and her team at ACC do. ‘I am not a huge fan of African inspired fashion as this takes away from 22


At the time of printing Arieta Mujay was announced as Head of PR and Communications for Boohoo. com. Arieta will be in charge of all communications for the online retailer and will oversee the PR teams in the UK and work with Boohoo. com’s international agencies. We wish Arieta all the best as she takes on her newest career high. the evolvement of fashion from the continent and leaves us pigeonholed. When you say AFRICAN fashion you need to understand we are talking about fashion from 55 countries and what is a big trend in East Africa may never translate in West Africa and vice versa’ she intrepidly says.

Find out more about ACC at:

Fashion by Tamu: African Collective



Fashion by ChiChia: African Collective



Fashion by ChiChia: African Collective





Proud designers of Curly Hair Magazine Quote CHM10 to get 10% discount on our services

Makeup: Grace Opeyokun Hair: Dami Gbago (Ideal Ladies) Clothes: MawMaw Styling: Ebee Location: Shaka Zulu Restaurant, Camden

The Blogger


Tola Okogwu My Long Hair Journey


ell us about your natural hair journey.

My natural hair journey originally started with me wanting to grow long healthy relaxed hair. I had been relaxing my hair since I was ten or eleven years old. My mother originally Jheri curled my hair but swimming got in the way and my hair was drying out and my mum got fed up so she thought to just relax it. So from a young age I had always had relaxed hair and it was all I had ever known and I was just doing crazy stuff to it. Especially when I was a teenager, teenagers and relaxed hair do not mix very well. The reason being during that 30


stage of life you do not always know what you are doing. As a teenager dying your hair, using bonding glue and doing all the other weird and wonderful things to it becomes the norm and damage is inevitable. A friend introduced me to shea butter and I think that was the beginning of my process. Using natural products on my body got me thinking about my hair and whether there was a better way to look after it. I started to then use the shea butter on my hair and noticed the difference. I started to then go online and discovered the world of hair inspired blogs and realised that if I wanted long hair I did not have to depend

on weaves, I could actually grow my own hair and it would grow. That is how I got into a healthier hair journey and after being on my relaxed healthy hair journey for 2 years I thought well actually what would my natural hair be like. I felt like I was at the point where I was not scared of it or scared to see what it was like. I decided to get to know my hair and if I choose to go back to relaxer at least I knew that it was an informed style decision as opposed to relaxing out of habit. From there I decided to transition and I transitioned for a year and then cut off all the relaxed ends, it has been almost two years now and I love it.

Why did you decide to start your blog? It was a diary; I am really big on education/information and disseminating information. I think for me because I discovered all these new things and it blew my mind, I thought to myself if sharing the things I have learnt can impact my family and friends, then why not others? I just thought how many more women out there don’t know this and would want to know this. I felt a strong responsibility that if I gained this knowledge then I needed to pass it on and it was also a way to track my journey so I could see my progress. I love writing and have been trained in journalism, so writing was something that has always come naturally to me. Also, my husband pushed me as he knew how much I love to write so I should just do it.

How do you get inspiration for your posts? Life. I find that is the best inspiration. The things that I do to my hair on a daily basis, questions people ask me, and experiences that I have such as if I have a run in with somebody and they raise an interesting question. My posts do vary from editorial pieces, to informative hair solutions and then what I am doing with my hair on a daily, weekly and monthly basis. I tend to respond to the needs of the women who read my blog and this always produces something that is organic and authentic.

Who is your biggest hair inspiration? My sister, she went natural before I did and she did it because she was suffering from breakage on her scalp, she visited a dermatologist and he told her that she was having a mild allergic reaction to relaxers and that this could eventually lead to her losing her hair. So she went home that same day and cut it all off. She’s a warrior, for her it is health first and seeing her do that really inspired me. Being my older sister she has always had to experience life ahead of me and watching her deal with all the funny comments and people not understanding really taught me about grace and how to be a good role model.

I have two, one from when I had relaxed hair. I do not have a problem with wearing my hair straight or using heat so I did like having bone straight hair with a middle parting. But since going natural, I really enjoy twist outs, so I will do a flat twist out after washing my hair to let it set over night and then take the twists out. I do love the halo effect and the definition you get after twists have been in.

Style tips for this season? What’s hot and what’s not? I have noticed up do’s are quite popular I think that has been inspired by a lot of celebrities who are stepping out people like Teyana Taylor. I have also noticed that graduated bobs and cropped pixie cuts with lots of texture are really hot or fades on the side are now also worn a lot. If I weren’t growing my hair I would just graduate it as I think it looks so hot especially when you do a chunky twist out.

What are your top tips to getting the best out of your natural hair? 1. I always feel that having natural hair, especially transitioning to natural hair is a mental thing first before the physicality of it because it completely challenges the way you view beauty. For so long we have been taught to view straight sleek hair as the ideal of beauty and natural hair does not work that way so mentally you have got to start to re-evaluate what you see as beautiful and how you view yourself as beautiful, otherwise you are constantly going to struggle with how you look in reality and what you see on the TV and magazines as the two do not marry. You have got to get to a point where you see yourself as beautiful with what God gave you otherwise it’s a constant mental struggle.

“Life. I find that is the best inspiration.”

What is your biggest hair disaster? The biggest disaster was when I returned to London after visiting Nigeria; I had freshly done miniature Senegalese twists. I returned home looking ‘fly’ and feeling good, but eventually it was time to take them out. I had decided to take the twists down at around 3am in the morning, resulting in me feeling tired and wanting to give up by the mid-way point. I finally got them out and it was like “ok I really should comb this hair” but I could not be bothered. I jumped in the shower put the shampoo on and my hair knotted and tangled to the point I was crying. I woke up my mum and we tried to get them out and she was not able to. In the end she sent me to the hair dressers the next day with a blank cheque saying fix her hair and they just had to cut it. I went down to a pixie cut from about neck length/ shoulder length hair.

What is your favourite Style to date?

2. Patience. Natural hair is a journey as there is a lot you have to re-discover. Once you get it down its easy and then it will be second nature, but it is so different to what we are used to and it does require a certain measure of patience.

3. Consistency. You have to get a good regimen and you have got to be consistent with it as that is when you will see results. Natural hair is not hair you detangle in a rush - you have to be able to take your time with it. 4. Don’t rely on products. I think we often jump to what products should I use and generally you can probably use any product it is about figuring out what the needs of your hair are and then finding a product that works for your hair and sticking to it. I started out as a product junkie my house was full of different products it was like a walk in salon. Now I pretty much use three and I just keep using them. Find out more about Tola and her journey at her blog and check out her social media pages: Blog: Twitter: @LngHairjourney Facebook: mylonghairhourney Instagram: Tolaokogwu




From Youtube Channel YolandaasY


ell us about your natural hair journey. I was natural until I was ten years old and I was living in Sweden. My mum is white and she didn’t know about natural or black hair, if I remember correctly my granny sent me a relaxer from London and my mum relaxed my hair. At the time I thought that I really wanted straight hair as I lived in Sweden and everyone was white so I literally thought that it would come out like the girls on the packaging, obviously that did not happen as it had been freshly relaxed for the first time and she did not blow dry it so it was a disappointment. But then I continued to relax it until I was nineteen which was two years ago. At first I just tried to take care of my relaxed hair but it did not work out, it did not grow and it kept breaking. I then got to a point where I was stretching the gap between my relaxers for periods of 3 months, I saw a little curl growing out and thought is this my hair as I did not really know. I then made a decision not to relax my hair anymore and when I finally stopped, it was actually really liberating.

What is your biggest hair disaster? I would come to London on holidays and I would relax my hair and weave it on the same day. I would wear this style or six months then when returning to Sweden, I would rip it out myself. I would then repeat the process - at one point, there were even patches of hair missing. I look back at pictures of those times and realise how stupid it was as parts of my hair were over processed and burnt from the relaxer. What is your favourite Style to date? The side swept flat twist out Style tips for this season? What’s hot and what’s not? Updo hairstyles, I don’t know how to do them myself but would love to learn how to.

What are your top tips to getting the best out of your natural hair? 1. Do not go natural if you do not like natural hair 2. Do not straighten it too often but do not be scared to do it, it’s not a big deal 3. Wear your hair how you like it

Why did you decide to start your blog? I have been blogging on and off since I was 13, blogging is really big in Sweden where I grew up and I used to love blogging about lifestyle. I have always blogged on and off with personal blogs and then when I moved to London five years ago I discovered beauty blogs and that is when I started my hair and beauty blog, which has just really grown. How do you get inspiration for your posts? I don’t really have inspiration like that but people’s hair that I really like are Kikicouture, Naptural85 on and Fusionofculture, who are all natural hair bloggers on Youtube.

4. Do not be lazy on your wash days. Try to wash it at least once a week and do your treatments like deep conditioning. 5. Be gentle with your hair so it won’t break. Find out more about Yolanda and her journey at her blog and check out her social media pages: Blog: Youtube: YolandaasY Twitter: @Yolandaas Facebook: Pinkandleopardprints Instagram: Yolandaas



Leilu From Afrodeity UK


ell me about your natural hair journey I was natural until I was 11 and then had a curly perm for years. I got my first relaxer when I had to take care of my own hair at University and a couple of years later I began wearing weaves. After mistreating my hair quite badly and a brief interlude with trying to grow healthy relaxed hair, I then decided to go natural. I went natural after a big chop. I tried transitioning for a year but decided one New Years Day to cut all my hair off and start fresh. After the birth of my daughter I thought it was important to show her that curly hair can be beautiful too so that she could love her hair no matter how she wears it. I thought that this should start with me embracing who I am. I finally started to realise it is OK to just be me! I am really enjoying my hair now and the confidence that being natural has given me. Why did you decide to start your blog? My hair fell out at the back and as I had lost my hair in patches several time before due to self relaxing, I decided that this would be the last time. I started to research black hair and what could be done to regrow the hair I had lost, and if it was even possible. I didn’t find much resources; particularly in the UK or any other females starting from a similar point as myself. I started my blog in 2008 and I used it to chart my progress. I also lived at least an hour away from a black hair dresser and I started blogging for all the UK girls who lived miles from any black salons and travel two or three hours to London or Birmingham and have to buy all their hair products on the internet and pay ridiculous amounts of postage from the States. I also wanted to talk about how it felt to lose my hair, grow it back and start the process of loving my own hair. How do you get inspiration for your posts? Mostly from observation and conversations I have with people about my hair or emails I receive from fans. As my blog is about my journey, if I learn something new or discover a new way to wear my hair or a new ingredient, I write about it.

One time was when I had a weave and was impatient to have it out, I pulled it straight of my hair without using an oil to soften the glue. I then self relaxed the little hair that was left. Another occasion was when I had braids I left them in without washing them for three months when the time came to take them out, my hair was full of dirt so I thought it would be a good idea to wash the hair first then remove the braids. My hair came off with the braids. Favourite style to date. I loved my hair just after my big chop. I would use decorative headbands and it was so easy to wake up and go. Style tips for this season? What’s hot and what’s not? Dying natural hair different bold colours seem to quite popular at the moment. I am currently loving this seasons blondes and ombre natural hair. Would you ever consider going back to chemically processed hair/have you ever really thought about it? I don’t think I could go back to chemically processed hair. I have changed so much as a person since I went natural. The path to accepting me and regaining my confidence started the day I turned my back on relaxers. As a drug scientist I worked with a lot of the chemicals that are in relaxers daily, and have done assessments on these chemicals. I don’t feel a need to ‘do’ anything to my hair at the moment, I think it is beautiful and I’ve accepted myself as beautiful, just the way I am. Top five tips to getting the best natural hair of your life. 1. Moisture, Moisture, Moisture - Water is your friend, wash you hair frequently and regularly. Keep your scalp clean and allow it to dry properly to avoid bacteria or mould growing.

“I started blogging for all the UK girls who lived miles from any black salons and travel two or three hours to London or Birmingham and have to buy all their hair products”

Who is your biggest hair inspiration? I don’t really have a hair inspiration as such, I follow many blogs/vlogs and love all that the natural community has to offer in all its different shapes and sizes. If I had to pick a celebrity I would have to say Singer/Songwriter Corinne Bailey Rae. I always love how free she is with her hair and her twist outs always look amazing. Biggest hair disaster. I have had many! My problems really started when I had to look after my own hair at university

2. Balance Protein and Moisture. A good deep condition at least once a month can make a world of difference and do a pre shampoo treatment (even with just coconut oil) before shampooing. 3. Reduce the amount of heat you use to prevent breakage and drying out the hair. 4. Resist pulling the hair on the sides of your head and temples. 5. A silk or satin scarf at night is a must. This helps prevent breakage.

Find out more about Leilu and her journey at: Blog: & Twitter: @afrodeityltd Facebook: Leilu Dallas or AfroDeity-Ltd Instagram: @afrodeity_ltd



At home with...

Crystal Afro W

ell, meet Crystal Afro – this naturalista is blazing the trail for natural bloggers on this side of the Atlantic. We caught up with her in her beautiful home to talk hair musthaves and mishaps. Was going natural a purely aesthetic choice for you or was it in any way political? There were numerous reasons that I decided to stop wearing weaves and relaxing my hair, but in many ways it was quite political. While studying I became interested in the history and representation of black women in Britain. Consequently, I noticed a distinct lack of women with natural hair generally, and an almost total absence of women with natural hair that were celebrated for their beauty.

You went natural before the movement really took off over here in the UK, did you find it challenging? I did find it challenging, but it helped having the blog and twitter as an outlet for how I was feeling. The first two weeks were the worst! I felt like I looked immature and unattractive, and I was frustrated by the lack of styling options I thought I had. I was also confused by all the different advice I was reading online. It can take a while to really accept your hair, especially when it makes you look very different from how you perceived version of how you ‘should’ look. But now I know that the most important thing you can do is take the time to really get to know and understand your own hair. What inspired you to set up your blog?

I realised that if I couldn’t accept the appearance of my natural hair I was actually supporting a false beauty standard that has excluded black women for centuries.

My two main things were to take action to support my belief that black women with natural hair should be seen and celebrated as beautiful. I hoped that by sharing my experience I could help inspire others to feel good about their hair too. The other was to share the experience of going natural from a British perspective. At the time when I decided there were a limited number of British natural hair blogs/bloggers; most of them were American. The main two I knew of at the time were The Natural Lounge and Natural Belle. They encouraged me to share my voice and they continue to be big inspirations. What have been the highlights of your natural journey?



“The bloggersphere has undoubtedly played a massive role in the natural hair movement we are currently experiencing, but when you think about most natural bloggers and indeed vloggers they seem to be Stateside...”

The highlights have been hearing from women and girls who have been inspired by something I’ve said or done, meeting and making so many talented and beautiful new friends. Also learning to understand my hair, and seeing the progress I’ve made.

that was too strong, or dying my hands orange for two weeks when I tried to henna my hair without using gloves. All of it, especially the mistakes, has played a part in getting me to where I am now feeling great about my hair.

What do you love most about being natural?

What are your top 5 hair must-haves?

I’m me! No pretending, or hiding or trying to keep up pretence of how I look. It’s made a huge difference to how I feel about myself as a person - I feel a lot more confident about me.

For my hair: 1. Jamaican Black Castor Oil 2. Eco Styler Gel 3. A good leave-in conditioner with a lot of slip (I change brands regularly) 4. Giovanni Smooth As Silk Conditionert 5. Root 2 Tip Stimulate & Cleanse

If you could change one thing about your hair journey what would it be? I wouldn’t change a thing. Even the mistakes I’ve made; like turning my hair to straw by using protein treatment that was too strong, or dying my hands orange for two weeks when I tried to henna my hair without using gloves. All of it, especially the mistakes, has played a part in getting me to where I am now feeling great about my hair.

What advice do you have for newly naturals? Talk to other naturals and ask questions. Keep your hair moisturised. Don’t expect new results from the same old hair care practices. Do your research, and find out what works for you. If you could change one thing about your hair journey what would it be?

What advice do you have for newly naturals? Talk to other naturals and ask questions. Keep your hair moisturised. Don’t expect new results from the same old hair care practices. Do your research, and find out what works for you.

I wouldn’t change a thing. Even the mistakes I’ve made; like turning my hair to straw by using protein treatment




ratec o p r o c l Officia







Social Naturals Our favourite naturals on Social media from around the world... Naturalluxu ex

We have chosen some of our favourite naturals around the world and in the UK on social media. They are stunners and we have complete hair and makeup envy. Don’t forget to check out their pages and follow them. Email us with the Subject title ‘Social Naturals’ at




ia r a f

and tell us your favourite ‘Social Natural’s.



Hair Valley


How to spot a good hair stylist

About Hair Valley

In her day job Valley Fontaine is a BBC Broadcast Journalist. You can hear her daily either reading the news or reporting or producing on BBC London 94.9. Valley who has a BA in Communications and an MA in Radio Journalism from Goldsmith’s University of London is also a hair journalist, and editor of the hair blog on She specialises in providing key information and tips for those who like to also wear weaves, wigs and hair extensions, in a bid to stop them from damaging their natural hair. In the UK, Valley is also a frequent speaker industry events, and regularly hosts live hair advice workshops.


Identifying a competent hair stylist may not be as easy as you might think. Everyone seems to dabble in afro type hair nowadays, but that does not mean they should. Does the person who has their hands in your hair really understand the long term impact of what they are doing to your hair? Wether you have a relaxer, locs, use hair dye, wear a weave, extension or braids, have your hair flat ironed, blowed dried or wear your hair in natural styles, bad hairdressing practices could result in hair breakage or even permanent hair loss. So how do you find a good hairdresser? Well it’s not about the location, how swish the interior of the salon is, or necessarily about years of experience. The skills needed for finding the person who is right for your head of hair could be considered similar to those used when trying to find a child minder; instincts count as much as qualifications and all the fancy window dressing. Here’s a list of 8 things to consider when during your search: 1 Has the stylist got a healthy/attractive head of hair; be it a relaxer, natural or weave? In other words, do they walk the talk? If they take pride in their own hair then it’s more likely they’ll do the same for you. 2 The hairdresser will have a portfolio of work they will want to show you. This helps to prove they can do a good job and take pride in their work. 3 The salon will insist on taking details of your hair history before touching your hair. This demonstrates that the hairdresser wants to do her best for you. 4 The person who doing your hair should know about your general health. They need to know if you are on any medication that may be impacting on your hair. 5 A break between certain hair styles is recommended, a good stylist will want to know when you last had your hair relaxed, coloured, weaved, braided with extensions



etc. 6 Your stylist will concentrate on you and your hair and not spend 50% of the time joking and gossiping with others whilst you are in the chair. Paying attention to detail can only be good for your hair. 7 A good hairdresser should know how to care for natural hair too! Although they may have spent most of their career doing relaxers, perms and weaves, natural hair is not brain science. If in this day and age they haven’t bothered to familiarise themselves with what grows out of the scalp, and the emerging ‘natural hair’ language, then that’s certainly not impressive. 8 A stylist who will say: “No! I don’t think that’s a good idea. It’s ultimately up to you, but I am not willing to do that to you”. Not everything we want to do to our hair is in our best interest. Because they can, it does not mean they should.

AGONY t n u A r i Ha


ur Agony Hair Aunt is Rachael who is the Co-founder of Afrocenchix, a natural hair care brand that has been going since 2011 which was a response to her business partner’s traction alopecia; Rachael’s severe eczema; and their combined frustration at the lack of quality natural hair care products in the UK. She has been natural since 2010 and having had relaxed hair from the age of 4, has experienced all sorts of stresses and headaches in learning how to look after her natural texture. Rachael has begun to study Trichology in order to help others suffering from hair and scalp problems and currently helps countless women to make natural simple at events and through her blog which can be found here:

WHAT IS MY HAIR TYPE? I have been trying to figure out what my curl pattern is but for some reason I do not think I have one. My hair just seems really brittle and dry and limp. How do you advise finding out what my hair type is? When can you be sure what it is?

down to styling choices. Hopefully more moisture will solve the problem, if not then please write back giving more details of your hair care regime. Good luck!

From: Hair Type None Texture typing can be a contentious issue - to some it is an essential part of having healthy hair, to others it is an unnecessary burden. In my view the real question here is how to improve brittle, dry and limp hair. I’m not sure of my exact hair texture but it is around the 4b/c/a ish type. When my hair is dry at the back it feels slightly different to when it is dry in the middle however both areas need the same type of moisture. When it comes to some hairstyles, on the other hand, texture typing may be relevant and I recommend the quiz on the Naturally Curly site to help with that (http://www. however knowing your hair type will not necessarily help dry, brittle, limp hair. For the dryness, I recommend incorporating (or increasing the amount moisture you use) a water based moisturiser into your hair care routine and sealing in the moisture with an oil. There are many reasons hair can be brittle and limp. It may be damaged and in need of a protein treatment, it may be 42


PRESSURE TO RELAX MY HAIR Being natural is everything to me! Like everything, but for some reason my friends still act like I am doing something alien. I can’t lie this does knock my confidence a lot and sometimes I get tempted to relax it. Have you ever felt like that? How did you respond to your friends? From: Susan, Croydon You’re not alone, this is far more common than you’d think. It can be tough when friends and family don’t understand our choice to embrace our natural hair - especially if the decision was a big deal to us. Though it can be frustrating, the best approach is to trust that our friends do care and want to support us and then to help them in this by explaining what the decision means to us. Sometimes friends can feel that our decision to go natural is a judgement of their decision to relax their hair or wear weaves so sometimes explaining that your journey is focused on your head and not theirs, and

© Tommyandone - Black Woman With Afro Hair Style Photo

It may help to show your friends your favourite natural hair blogs or take them to a natural hair event so that they can see for themselves what you are so passionate about. Keep being you and stay confident!

I NEED MOISTURE!!!! My hair is 4b and it is does not retain any moisture. HELP!!!! Can you advise me on a simple routine for moisture please? From Bose, Tottenham A simple routine that many swear by is the LOC method apply a leave in conditioner then an oil and finally a cream. I adjust this slightly for my weekly wash and after washing with a sulphate-free shampoo and rinse out conditioner I squeeze the water out of my hair then smooth oil through it to help my hair absorb the remaining water and air dry swiftly. I then wrap it in a t shirt for 5-10 minutes whilst I do some chores then when it is damp I then twist it in sections, applying a water based moisturiser then finger detangling before sealing the moisture in with oil as I do. I also deep condition once a month for 15 mins to keep dryness at bay. Try this out and let me know how it goes.


they are not. So I am confused and not sure if I am missing something from my regimen. From Anonymous Great question. Deep conditioners are generally used to help moisturise the hair and avoid breakage caused by having dry, brittle hair. You can deep condition with a protein or moisture treatments depending on your needs. For those who have recently big chopped, protein treatments aren’t necessary as the protein on the hair has yet to wear away. For those transitioning, women who dye or straighten their natural hair or even for those who have been natural a long time, it is likely that the keratin that makes up the cuticle of the hair has been worn down and chipped away so a protein treatment may help. Be warned, protein treatments can lead to dryness if too much is used or if your hair does not need protein. One test is to pull out a strand of your hair and break it in half. If the strand stretches then snaps you may need more protein, if the strand automatically breaks off it may mean too much protein. Checking with a hair stylist is best.

Having hair challenges? Why not ask our ‘Agony Hair Aunt’ by emailing: with the title ‘Agony Hair Aunt’

Are deep conditioners and protein treatments the same? Some people have told me they are and others have told me



Get that look... The chosen look was inspired by makeup looks created by Pat McGrath for Christian Dior’s A/W 2014 collection. The colours used on the eyes were mainly khaki green and cerulean blue with a hint of shimmer, creating a soft smokey look but with clear shapes. Eyebrows are clean and defined. The trend seems to be bold eyes with nude lips or a soft colour on the lips. A similar look has been worn by celebrities on the red carpet including Lupita Nyong’o. I have taken these ideas and adapted them, creating a commercial look which would be ideal for an evening out.

“Grace Anne is a cutting edge, innovative and driven makeup artist who provides a professional and enjoyable beauty experience. Specialising in fashion and photographic makeup, services include bridal makeup, special occasion makeup, tutorials and pamper packages”

01 Ensure you have cleansed, toned and moisturised your skin then add some primer.

02 To frame your face, defined eyebrows are a must! Fill in any gaps or sparse areas on your eyebrows using an eye shadow or eyebrow pencil. Use a slanted brush if filling with eye shadow. Add a concealer one shade lighter than your skin tone to define the shape of your eyebrows. Then blend this out with a slanted/ flat brush.



03 Base your eyelids with an eye shadow that matches your skin colour. Using a small eye shadow brush, apply the lighter shade of eye shadow to the inner corner of your eyelids, working up to the middle. Apply a darker shade of eye shadow from the middle to the outer corner of your eyelid.

04 Add the darkest colour around the socket line and outer corner of eyelid using a blending brush.

05 Using a black kohl pencil or a liquid eyeliner; line your lash line and add a small wing at the end. Line your waterline with a black kohl pencil. Apply the dark eye shadow below the waterline with a smudge brush. Apply mascara, then attach false lashes to create a dramatic look

Products used to create this look:

07 06 Apply foundation to your face using a foundation brush. Use concealer to cover any blemishes. Add a translucent finishing power with a powder brush to set your foundation.

Using a blusher brush, add blusher to the cheek bones, beneath the cheek bones use a darker blush to contour the face. Apply highlighter to your brow bone and above your cheek bones towards your temples. Ensure this is well blended. Line your lips with a lip pencil. Apply lipstick and blend using a lip brush.

Primer: Mac Prep & Prime skin base visage Foundation: MAC Studio Fix Fluid foundation Concealer: MAC select cover-up Powder: MAC Prep & Prime transparent finishing powder, Mac mineralise skin finish deep dark Eyebrows: MAC Brun eyeshadow, MAC spiked eye pencil Eye shadows: Urban decay Damaged and Poison: Vice 2 palette, MAC Bio green Mascara: Lancôme hypnose drama black Eyeliner: L’Oreal Paris super liner blackbuster intense, MAC Smoulder kohl pencil Blusher: MAC Love thing, Blunt Highlighter: MAC Trace gold Lips: MAC Magenta lip pencil, MAC Flat out fabulous lipstick


Grace Anne provides makeup tutorials, for more information please visit or email

The Finished Look... ISSUE 1 - AUGUST 2015


Curly Hair Distributors If you want to subscribe and get Curly Hair sent straight to your door find out more on our website:

North London Klass Afro-European Hair Beauty Cosmetics Tottenham 834 High Road London N17 0EY Tel: 020 8493 0540 -------------------------Afro Desire Hair & Beauty Edmonton Units 1-3 Phoenix Way off Park Avenue London N18 2UH Tel: 020 8344 7953 ------------------------Afrotherapy Salon 235 Fore Street London N18 2TZ Tel: 020 8345 5621 ------------------------Norman Hair Fashions 64, High St Harlesdon London NW10 4SJ Tel: 020 8965 4510 ------------------------Chez Felicienne 24, Chamberlayne Rd London, NW10 3JD Tel: 020 8968 3408 ------------------------New Concept 447, High Rd London, N17 6QH Tel: 020 8365 1756 ------------------------Yaw’s Hair Salon 254, High Rd London N15 4AJ Tel: 020 8365 0749 46


East London Aquarius Hair Design 9, Stroud Green Rd, London 11z4 2DQ Tel: 020 7263 2483 ------------------------Emel’s Cutting Edge 1298, High Rd London, N20 9HJ Tel: 020 8445 3456 ------------------------Full Hundred 75, Turnpike Lane Harringay London, N8 0EE Tel: 020 8341 0049 ------------------------Hair by Marva 5, West End Lane London, NW6 4NU Tel: 020 3583 2883 ------------------------Hair by Ronald Joyce 18, Lymington Avenue London, N22 6JA Tel: 020 8889 7373 ------------------------Afro Hair & Beauty Lounge 8 High Street Brent Park LONDON, NW10 4LX Tel: 020 3583 0353 ------------------------Amina Kadia 9, Frognal Parade London, NW3 5HH Tel: 020 7435 9713 ------------------------Camille’s Afro Hair Bush Hill Parade Bury St West London, N9 9JS Tel: 020 8364 3535

Afro World De Beauvoir, Kingsland 7 Kingsland High St London E8 2JS Tel: 020 7275 8848 ------------------------Expressions in Hair 210 Leyton High Road London E10 5PS Tel: 020 8539 3052 ------------------------East End Cosmetics Aldgate 131 Middlesex St London E1 7JF Tel: 020 7626 4015 ------------------------Afro Cosmetics & Hair Walthamstow 115a High Street London E17 7DB Tel: 020 8520 6478 ------------------------SILK TRENDS AFRO & EUROPEAN HAIR DESIGN 202, Chingford Mount Rd, London, E4 8JR Tel: 020 3376 2476 ------------------------Afro Caribean Hair Dressers 306 Grove Green Road, LONDON, E11 4EA ------------------------Glamour Hair Salon 335 Barking Road London, E6 1LA Tel: 07500 189791 ------------------------Prinny Prince Unit 11, Station Road, London, E4 7DA Tel: 020 35972665

ASIA WRAY Kemp House, 152-160, City Rd, London, EC1V 2NX!ASIA WRAY Tel: 07702 165732 ------------------------Maries Hair Care Studio 309, Lea Bridge Rd London, E10 7NE ------------------------Abisola Onabanjo Hairdressers 11, Boscombe Close, London, E5 0TU 07956 304528 ------------------------Divine Boutique & Afrohair Beauty Salon 34, Hoe St London, E17 4PH Tel: 020 8521 7885 ------------------------Hair Expressions Hackney Central 9 Well Street London E9 7PX Tel: 020 7485 7755 http://www.hairexpressions. ------------------------Mystique Unisex Hair Salon 330, Hoe St London, E17 9PX Tel: 020 8521 8440 Children’s Hairdressers ------------------------Triumph Hair & Beauty Salon 14, Church St London, E15 3HX 020 8534 7288

Get in touch... For a list of more distributors please contact Curly Hair Magazine:

Rootsman 3, Central Parade, 137 Hoe St, London, E17 4RT Tel: 07904 429831 ------------------------T & M Hairdressing 207, Kingsland Rd, London, E2 8AN Tel: 020 7613 4726 ------------------------Elshaddai 277a, High Rd Leytonstone, London, E11 4HH 020 3489 8404 ------------------------Peculiar Salon 269, High Rd Leyton, London, E10 5QN Tel: 020 8539 8808 ------------------------Purely Natural hair and beauty 119 The Grove, stratford, london e15 1en Tel 0208221 0122

South London De-Lady Salon 47 Baylis Road London SE1 7AU Tel: 020 7928 6498 ------------------------Juliet’s Afro Cosmetic Superstore Peckham 120 Rye Lane London SE15 4RZ Tel: 020 7358 1688

Beauty World Coldharbour Lane Herne Hill 11 Electric Avenue London SW9 8JY Tel: 020 7737 2747 ------------------------Catwalk Coldharbour Lane Herne Hill 29 Atlantic Road London SW9 8JJ ------------------------Junior Green Hair & Beauty 39, Knightsbridge London, SW1X 7NL Tel: 020 7752 0620 ------------------------HIIKUSS HAIR STUDIO 222, Camberwell Rd, London, SE5 0ED Tel: 02077016478 ------------------------Hype Coiffure Gold 518, Brixton Rd London, SW9 8EN Tel: 020 7326 4352 ------------------------FIRST CLASS 237, Knights Hill, London, SE27 0QT 020 87610333 ------------------------Dominican Hair Republic 86, Brixton Rd London, SW9 6BH Tel: 07765 245338

Ori-Nism Ltd 309 Sydenham Road London SE26 5EW ------------------------Andre Pierre 393 Coldharbour Lane, LONDON, SW9 8LQ Tel: 020 3667 9865 ------------------------Toppers Hair & Beauty 207, Amesbury Avenue, London, SW2 3BJ Tel: 020 33308564 020 8674 1939

12, Joan Crescent London, SE9 5RS 07974 942404

West London BLADERUNNERS HAIR & HAIR AND BEAUTY 158, Notting Hill Gate, London, W11 3QG Tel: 020 72292255

------------------------Cinda’s Hair Studio 262, New Cross Rd, London, SE14 5PL Tel: 020 7277 9877 www.cindashairstudio. ------------------------Jazzy G Afro Hair & Beauty 28, Fulham High St, London, SW6 3LQ Tel: 020 7731 2143 ------------------------Classy Design Afro Hair Salon 39a, Burnt Ash Hill London, SE12 0AE Tel:020 8851 4793 ------------------------Station Studios Hair & Beauty Salon 144, Felixstowe Rd London, SE2 9RN Tel: 020 8310 8080 Beauts with Luc

------------------------Castiel’s 52, Theobalds Rd London, WC1X 8NW Tel: 020 7871 0098 020 7242 9342 ------------------------GENESIS HAIR DESIGN LTD 211, Uxbridge Rd, London, W13 9AA 020 8567 2760 ------------------------Andrew Jose Salon 1 Charlotte Street, LONDON, W1T 1RB 020 7323 4679 ------------------------Athton cox Salon 18 New Cavendish Street London W1G 8UR 0207 487 4048 ------------------------Darren Scott Salon 117 Shirland Road Maida Vale London W9 2EW Tel: 020 7286 9395



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