23LETTERFROMTHEEDITOR
24CONTRIBUTORS
25MASTHEAD
26GAMECHANGERS
Meetthechangeagentswhoare blazinganewpathandinspiring abetterfuturebyredefiningwhat itmeanstobesuccessful
36OUTOFTHISWORLD
Thisseason’snewestcropofaccessorieswillset yourimaginationon fireanddareyoutodream
52BAMBOOBLING
Theseeye-catchingcreationsbecomeevermore alluringwheninspiredbythenaturalworld
64THEHOTLIST
Thisseason’stoptenmostwanted
74DIAMONDLIFE
Thepassageoftimebecomessomething tolookforwardtowhenthesedazzlingbeauties aretheonesmarkingit
82ROLLUPTHEREDCARPET
WithfashioninthespotlightthankstoaslewofHollywood blockbustersandstreaminghits,willstylistssoonjoinwriters andactorsbehindthepicketlines?
88THEMIRRORHASTWOFACES
InhernewbookofpersonalessaysBlackFriend,provocative comedian,TVhost,andwriterZiweFumudohwantsyou toknowthatsheismorethanatwo-dimensionalcharacter
98SANTORINI’SSIRENCALL
WhosaysthattheCycladesareonlyforsummerholiday? WhynotpackupyourfallfashionsandgetlostontheAegean?
114REIMAGINEDCLASSICS
Fromsuitingtosportswear,andeverythinginbetween,fall fashionhasafreshnewtakeonsignaturesilhouettes
130CLUBGREEN
Celebrating10yearsofshowingatNewYorkFashionWeek, eLo pioneer Follina ,trada’s firstbookisyourtiLkettothe revolution
134PAINTTHETOWNRED
Sensualdesire,carnalinfatuations,primalinstincts.Redfor everyrhymeandreason
150MAESTRO’SMERMAIDS
InhonoroftheEmporioArmaniFlagshipSoHoopening inNewYorkCity,wepayhomagetothetransportivebeauty oftheirFall/Winter2023collection
158I’MBELIEVABLEBECAUSEI’MREAL
WillemDafoeexplainshowhealwaysmanagestodisappear inhisperformances,revealingonlythecharactersheplays
162PLAYITASITLAYS
Flean Luts$ solid Lolorsanda ?OWs !air Welook,onceagain,towriterJoanDidion forinspirationofbothsubstanceandstyle
174ICANBUYMYSELFFLOWERS
Theseductiveallureofnatureisalwaysinstyle
186NOTHERFIRSTRODEO
Asfashioncreatesastableofhorsegirlmust-haves, actualranchproshavesomequestions
ONTHECOVER:Dress,bra,scarf,tights, socks,andshoesbyMarcJacobs,marcjacobs. com;Tiffany&Co.Schlumberger®Twenty Stonehoopearringsingoldwithdiamonds, Tiffany&Co.Schlumberger®ApolloBrooch inGoldandPlatinumwithDiamonds,Tiffany &Co.Schlumberger®FloralLeavesclipin 18kgoldwithdiamonds,tiffany.com.
192BUSINESSASUNUSUAL
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250APRESTO!
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JIMMYFONTAINE grewupinFallbrook, Californiaandgothis startphotographing snowboardingand skateboarding.He relocatedtoNewYork Cityin2004andnow focusesonmusicand celebrityportraitsaswell asfashion.He’scurrently workingonhis firstbook ofmusicportraitsfrom thelast20years.
Aformercorrespondent forWWDinMilan, CYNTHIAMARTENS isahighlycaffeinated journalistandmediaand intellectualproperty lawyerinNewYorkCity.
DHAIRIUSTHOMAS isa celebrityhairstylistwithA-list clientelesuchasSerena Williams,Rihanna,Winnie Harlow,andmore.Hisgoal istoeducatefellowstyliston theimportanceofhairhealth forallhairtypes.
NativeNewYorker THEO KOGAN isamakeupartist andtheleadsingerof NYC’sLunachicks. Theohasbeenamodel, actress,DJandparty promoterandco-author of FallopianRhapsody,The StoryoftheLunachicks withJeanneFuryouton Hachettebooks
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WHOAREBLAZINGANEW PATHANDINSPIRING
MEETTHECHANGEAGENTS
ABETTERFUTUREBYREDEFINING
WHATITMEANSTOBESUCCESSFUL
EDITEDBY CASEYBRENNAN
“Thereisno‘typical’waytobecome anentrepreneur,andIthinkmy trajectoryreflectsthat,”EmilyHikade, thefounderandCEOofluxurypajama brandPetitePlumetellsGraziaUSA.
Thatisquitecanunderstatement consideringHikademadeacareershift fromCIAofficerworkingoverseasto founderandCEOofPetitePlume.
“Inforginganewpathentirely,itwas obviouslyahugecareerchangewith notabledifferencesthatwouldbe expected,”saysHikade,whofounded thebrandin2015.“Butitmight surprisepeoplethesimilarities.Being abletoadaptmyskills,knowledge, andtraininghasledmetobebetterin businessandnavigatethroughsome unexpectedhurdles.”
ThestoryofPetitePlumeandHikade’s pathasanentrepreneuraretruly extraordinary.
“Thereisneveragoodtimetostarta company,”admitsHikade,whowas livinginEastAfricawithafull-time jobandsmallchildrenwhenafateful journeymotivatedhertowardacareer change.“Iwasonaplanetoahighthreatmeetingwhentheplanestarted togooutofcontrol,”sherecalls.“The lightswentout,peoplewerescreaming astheplanecascadedtowardthe water.AllIcouldseewasthefaces
ofmythreelittleboysathome.The smallestonewasn’tevenayearoldand Ifeltprofoundlysadthattheywere goingtogrowupwithoutamom.To saythatwasapivotalmomentinmy lifewouldbeanunderstatement.” Theplanemiraculouslycorrected andfromthatmomenton,Hikade startedonthepathtowardlaunching PetitePlume.“IusedtoliveinFrance, andyoucouldfindtheseclassicstyle pajamasliterallyinthegrocerystore, butIcouldn’tfindthemintheU.S. formychildren.Sothatstartedmy journey.Iliterallyfiguredouthow manypajamasIhadtoselltoreplace mygovernmentsalaryandthatwasn’t asdaunting.”
Hikademadeaplanbutalsolet thingsfallintoplacenaturally.“When itcomestoplanningforbusiness, andofteninlife,Ithinkthatitisso importanttohaveadefined,structured andthoroughroadmapforsuccess,” shesays.“Ontheflipsideit’sjustas importanttobeflexible,learnhow toadjusttheplanandovercomeany obstacle,asanythingcouldbearound thecorner.”
ThatmindsethaspaidoffforHikade andthePetitePlumebrand,which isnowavailableinmajorretailers likeSaksFifthAvenue,Neiman
MarcusandBloomingdale’saswell asMainsonetteandShopBop.There havebeencollaborationswithMinnow, M.M.LaFleurandPalmBeach’siconic ColonyHotel.
WithHoliday—thebrand’sbusiest season—approaching,thereislittle timetoslowdown.
“Wehaveexcitingcollaborationson thehorizon,aswellasexpandingour beddingandhomecollection,”Hikade says.“BringingPetitePlumetolife, fromanideatoareality,wasallabout takingthefirststep.Ineverdreamed we’dbewherewearenowandwe’re justgettingstarted.”
“Lookingbackatthepastfiveyears, thepotentialforthenextfiveyears isendless,”saysHikade.“In2024, PetitePlumeismovingintothenext stageofourgrowth,withincredible brandmomentsandmilestonesforthe company.Thepossibilitiesareendless, asIcouldn’thavepredictedwhereI wouldbetodaywhenIstartedthe business,andnewdoorsofopportunity areopeningeveryday.”
MelissaGellmanWeisshasspentthe past20-somethingyearasamarketing executiveaticonicglobalbrands includingAmazon,J.Crew,Barry’s, TheoryandHelmutLang.“Iloveto createandbuildbrandsandhavebeen luckyenoughtospendthepast20ish yearsdoingjustthat,”Weisstells GraziaUSA.
Butit’sherpassionoutsideofwork thatinspiredWeisstocreatetheRE/ GENMethod,anewfitnessprogram meanttohelpwithstrength,mobility, recovery,longevity,andresilience.
“Outsideofmycareer,I’maselfdescribedfitnessjunkiewhowas devotedtogroupfitnessandlifting weights,”saysWeiss.“I’malsoacancer survivor,whoturnedtofitnessfor wellnessinthewakeofmytreatment. AfterIturned40,Istartedgetting hurtinmyexerciseclasses.Iwas unsurewhy.IstarteddoingPilatesto rehabmyinjuries–whichitdid!”
ButjustPilateswasn’tenoughto supporthertotalfitnessneeds.“I neededstrengthtraining–especially asIcreptdeeperintomymid40s,”she explains.“Ialsomissedtheenergyand connectionofmygroupfitnessclasses. So,Istartedaregimenthatincluded Pilates,alongwithmyfavoritefitness classplusweights,yoga,andoccasional
otherclasses.AndIdidstarttofeel better.Butittookalltheseclassesand atonofmoneytogetthere.”
Noticingotherfriendsgrappling withthesamechallengesfindingthe perfectworkouttoreducebackpain, exerciseinjuries,postpartum-andperimenopause-relatedstuff,weight gainthatcameoutofnowhere,and exhaustion,Weissdecidedtocreateone herself.
“Icollaboratedwithfitnessexperts andPhDsfromColumbiaandYale todeveloptheRE/GENMethod,and intelligentlydesignedfunctionalfitness solutiontostrengthen,healandprotect theevolvinghumanbody,”saysWeiss.
InlateAugust,RE/GENMethod launchedwithapop-upstudioin NYCincludinggroupclasses,avirtual studiowithliveprivatesessionsfor 1x1sandsmallgroups,andwellness programsforeverythingfrom postpartumrecoverytopickleball prep.“Wehaveaconciergeofferingfor ourclientstoreceiveindividualized support,inandoutofthestudio,”says Weiss.
Withherlaserfocusand determination,Weisswillmakebig movesthereisnodoubtRE/GEN.
“Weintendtorollout12to15studios inthenextfiveyears.”
Weissisexcitedtosharehermethod withthemasses.“Thiswaspassion-led fromthestart,”saysWeiss.“Iwashell bentonmakingthishappen.Somany peopleidentifiedwithourmissionand joinedtheteamorganically.Also,there issomethingtobesaidfor20yearsof workinginmarketing,brand,digital, andbusinessdevelopment:Ihave contactsfromyearsintheindustry.” Entrepreneurshipisnotwithoutits challenges–especiallywhenone launchestheirfirstcompanyintheir 40s–withchildrenandaspouse.“As awomanwhoisasked,‘Howdoyou balanceitall,’Icantellyou,Idonot balanceitallonanygivenday,”Weiss admits.“Ithinkthat’sagender-biased questionthatisunfairandoutdated. It’snotajugglingact;rather,Iamjust choosingwhomorwhatgetssacrificed thatday.”
HavingcreatedRE/GENMethod duetoagrowingneedinthewellness space,Weisssays,“Thisjobis somethingIdreamedup–itisliterally mymission.Ibelievethatwhatweare doingwilltangiblyimprovepeople’s lives.Wehavecreatedsomethingthat doesnotexistinthemarket.Iamso proudofwhatwearebuildinghere.It’s aprivilegetobeapartofit.”
Withovertwodecadesofexperience,thedirectorofluxuryforthelargestspirits brandsintheworldisaproatcreatingunforgettableexperience
PatriciaVasconceloshadacircuitous pathtothespiritsindustry.“Iwas originallymeanttogotoWashington, D.C.,”PatriciaVasconcelostellsGrazia USA.“Iwasstudyinginternational businessatPennStateandenvisioned acareerinforeignpolicyorbecome adiplomat.”Anoverachiever, Vasconceloswasdeterminedtolanda jobbeforecollegegraduation.“Iwould gotothesecareerfairsandImetthis gentlemanfromGallowines.Hesaid, ‘Don’tgotoD.C.Youbelonginspirits industry.’Thenhetoldmeitwasa remotejoblongbeforeremotewasa thing—andIwasintrigued.”
ShetookthejobatGallo,where shegotacrashcourseinthespirits business.“Atthetime,Gallowas knowntohaveareallystrongtraining program,likegoingtoanIvyLeague universitybutforspirits,”Vasconcelos says.“IfyouweretrainedatGallo, peopleinthebusinessknowyouhad theskillsandweretherealdeal.”
Vasconcelosembracedthenewposition andlearnedeverythingshecould— untilamedicalconditionsidelinedher.
“IgotLymediseaseanddidn’tknow whatwasgoingon,”sheexplains.
“Iwasmisdiagnosedformanyyears andwastryingtofigureeverything out.Icouldbarelymove,hadfluidin
myjointsandhadtohaveallthese crazysurgeries.”Itwasarealblowfor Vasconceloswhotookatemporaryjob workinginfashion.Butshewassoon backinthespiritsspaceworkingfor JackDanielsasamulticulturalexpert inNYCandothermarkets.
NextupwasamovetoCalifornia, wheresheheadedatequila,marketing company.“Wecutadealtoownthe distributingrightsforCorralejotequila andwelaunchedinover40markets,” shesays.“Wereallyreshapedhow brandswenttomarket.Thiswasin 2006,2007,2008;wewerepioneering alotofwhattheindustryisdoing now.”Vasconcelosandherpartners alsoworkedonTequilaOcho,helping revampthebrandandrelaunching it.“Itbecamereallynoteworthyand buzzworthy,”shesays.“Butitwas beforesocialmediaandInstagramso wecouldn’tevenbragaboutit.”
Afterthemarketcrashedin2008, Vasconcelostookanotherbreak, touringaroundtheUnitedStates.But anotheropportunity—thistimewith LVMH,asamulticulturalspecialistto runtheWestCoast—cameknocking. This,Vasconcelossays,iswhere shereallydugmyheelsintoluxury executionandexperientialevents.
“Iwasabletothrowincredibleevents
andwiththepedigreeofLVMH,we createdsomeamazingprograms.
AfteradecadewithLVMH, Vasconcelosreturnedhometothe EastCoast,joiningWilliamGrant andSonsasdirectorofluxury,North America.Inthisrole,sheworkswith superpremiumluxuryproductsfrom theportfolioincludingTheBalvenie andGlenfiddich—thinkbottlesthat runanywherefrom$200to$140,000 —anddeliveringthemtoclientsina waythatistrulymemorable.“There arealimitednumberofbottlesof TheBalvenieSixtyandthisismaster blenderandmaltmasterDavid Stewart’slifework,”sheshares.“It’s ahugeresponsibilitytodeliverthese bottlesthoughtfully.”
Togetthingsdone,Vasconcelos,a certifiedKundaliniyogateacherand avidmeditator,channelsherinner NewYorker(sheisnowMiami-based) andaget-it-doneattitude.“Ithelps thatIlivedinNYCinmy20sso thereisarealsenseofurgencyand resourcefulness,”sheadmits.“Ihave producedsomanyeventsthatIreally havesomuchexperiencetodrawon. Plus,Ithoroughlyenjoytryingto figureoutthepiecesofthepuzzleto makethingshappen.”
Thereisperhapsnoonewhohasmade agreaterimpactonthefashionofhiphopandthemusicindustryatlarge thanJuneAmbrose.Knownfortaking chancesandcreatingsomeofthemost iconicandmemorablelooksofall time,Ambrosewasabletodrawonher formaltraining–whileaddingsomeof herownpersonalstyleandflair.
“Istartedoffwithformaleducation —Iwasatheatermajorandcostume designwasmyelective,”costume designer&creativedirectorAmbrose tellsGraziaUSA.Butafterfinishing school,Ambrosechoseacareerin investmentbankinginsteadoffashion. Aftertwoyearsinfinance,Ambrose internedatarecordcompany—“it wasveryshort-lived,”sheadmits —andthenreturnedtoherroots andpassion:costumedesign.“I incorporatedmycompanyin1994, nearly30yearsago,”Ambrosesays.
“Isawtheopportunityandwhitespace intheindustryandreallyunderstood whatIneededtodo.”
Ambroserealizedthatsheexcelledat developingcharacterswithinthemusic spaceusinghertraining.
“Ireallystartedtofocusoncostume designandmusicvideos,”Ambrose recalls.Afterreconnectingwith legendarymusicvideoproducerand
directorHypeWilliams,Ambrose usedskillstodevelopartistsandcreate iconicmoments.
“Westartedtoreallydisruptthings,” shesays.Caseinpoint:stylingMissy Elliottinapuffysuitfor“TheRain” video,stilloneofthemostmemorable momentsinhip-hophistory.
“TheworkIdidwithMissyspecifically andwhatwewereabletodointerms offemalesinthespacewithMissyas themusewasunmatched,”Ambrose explains,addingthatshedroppedlittle “breadcrumbs”ofherownpersonal styleintothisandmanyofherprojects includingtheoversizedsunglasses Elliottdonsinthevideo.“Didwe knowthatMissysuitwouldbeinevery writeupabouticonicfashionmoments –yes!”quipsAmbrose.“Wewere takingnoprisoners,wehadnothingto lose.”
Ambroseimmediatelybecamethe go-toforthebiggestnamesinthe industryincludingnewcomersJay-Z andSean“Diddy”CombsakaPuff Daddy.“ForPuff,itwashighfashion sportswearanddisruptingthehip-hop expectation,”Ambroserecalls.“We weredoingsomethingreallyglossyand notso‘hip-hop.’”
Ambrosehasalsoworkedwithrapper, recordexecutive,andentrepreneur
Jay-Zsinceinceptionofhiscareer.
“IworkedwithallhisRockafella artistsandmeandJayarestillworking together,”Ambrosesays.“Seeingthat thisoneindividualwhowasableto inspiresomuchandbeingsoclosetoit wassoinspiring.”
Anotherstandoutexperiencefor Ambrosewasherworkon1998 movie Belly starringDMXandNas. “Ilearnedsomuch,mainlyaboutnot judgingabookbyitscover,”admits Ambrose.“BecausewhenImetDMX Iassumed,andheprovedwrongevery stereotypecastuponhim.”
Justbeforethestartofthepandemic, AmbrosewastappedbyPumato launchawomen’sbasketballline.“This wasn’treallyathingsothatwasahuge responsibilityforsomanyreasons,” Ambroseexplains.“ButIknewthe taskwastoshiftcultureonceagainand findlighteninginthebottle.Withthis line,Iwasabletoinfusehighfashion andI’mreallyproudofwhatwedid.” Thereleaseofher2006book Effortless Style wasatruegamechangerfor Ambrose.“Tobeapublishedauthor wasahugemilestoneandcareer highlight,”saysAmbrose.“Ialways knewitwasbiggerthanmebutnow asanauthor,Ican’tbeerasedfrom history.”
TheKaiaSagejewelryfounderturnedalockdownhobby intoasought-afterbrand
KathyCromannevermeanttostart ajewelrybrand.“Itwashonestlyby accident;Ineverenvisionedhavingmy ownjewelryline,”theHawaii-based designershareswithGraziaUSA.But duringtheCovidlockdown,Croman startedcreatingpiecesmadewithpearl andinspiredbythenaturalbeautyof theoceanandelementsonherisland homeland.“Idolovejewelrysomuch andit’sdefinitelymylovelanguage,” sheexplains.“ItwasduringCovidthat Idovebackintojewelrymakingasa hobbyforfriendsandfamily.”
Aftercreatingasetofbaroquepearl bangles,(stillthebrand’sNo.1 bestseller),Cromanpostedaphoto toInstagram.“Friendsinstantly askediftheycouldbuyit,”shesays. “Beforeyouknowit,Ihadorders allovermybedroom.”Andso,the KaiaSagejewelryline—namedfor Croman’sdaughter—wasborn.“Soon afterthat,IwasatBloomingdale’s shoppingwithgirlfriendsinthefine jewelrydepartment,andthiswoman approachesmeandaskswhereIgot mybangles.ItoldherImakethem.”
ThewomenturnedouttobetheGM forBloomingdale’sandquicklysetupa pop-upwithKaiaSage.
“Twomonthslater,wedidapop-up, andIsoldoutwithinafewhours,”says
Croman.Fromthenon,myhusband encouragedmetocreateawebsiteand makeitofficial.Hereallyencouraged metostartmyownbrand,whichI did.Iwasastay-at-homemomforso long,Iwasnervoustostartsomething andputmyselfoutthere;Iwasafraid offailure.Ilearnedthatyoumustbe vulnerableandbewillingtotakethat chanceonyourself.I’msogladItooka betonmyselfbecauseI’mstillstanding anddoingincrediblywell.”
KaiaSage–effortlesslychic,one-ofa-kinddesignsthataremadewith sustainabilityinmind–isnowsoldat luxuryresortsaroundHawaiiincluding 1HotelHanaleiBay,MaunaLani,and TheRitzCarltonKapaluawithmore tocome.Startingwiththeviralpearl bangle,thelinenowincludesstunning pearldropearrings,turquoisehoops, andstatementstudsaswellaschoker necklacesandanklets.
Asthebrandexpands,Cromanisaonewomanshow,doingeverythingfrom designingthepieces,tophotography, marketingandevenshippingorders. Andshe’sreadytotakethingstothe nextlevel.
“Iseethebrandexpanding;I’vealready seenitgrowsomuchjustinthelast year,”Cromansays.Asshelooksto thefuture,Cromanenvisionsalarger
teamtohelpwiththeoperations andgrowth.“Iwouldloveawomenledteamtogrowwiththebrand.I envisionKaiaSageinalotofluxury resortsaroundtheworldintropical destinationssuchasHawaii.Iloveto travel,soeventravelingtodotrunk shows,andmeetingclientsfromall overtheworldissoexciting.”
Whensheisn’tfocusingongrowing thebrandandcreatingnewdesigns, Cromanmakessuretotakemuchneededtimeforherself.“Ilookatevery dayasagift,”shesays.“Ittookmany yearstonotfeelguiltyaboutthis,but Ibelieveininvestinginyourselfand prioritizingyourselffirst.It’slikeyou havetoputonyouroxygenmaskfirst beforeanyoneelse.Itrulybelievethat, becauseifI’mnothappy,neitherismy family.Idoalotofself-care.Ilovea goodHydraFacial!Anythingbeauty related,helpsmetorelaxandunwind. AndIwalk6.5mileseverysingle morning.It’smynon-negotiable.It’s mymeditation.”
Childhoodfriendsonamissiontomake roséapproachableyetchic
Twofriendswalkintoabar…and didn’tknowwhattoorder.“Nikki [Huganir]andIhavebeenlifelong friends–wemetinmiddleschool,” saysYesWayRoséco-founderErica Blumenthal.“Iwasafashioneditorand writer,andNikkiworkedasagraphic designerandartdirector.Livingand workinginNewYorkthetwoofus wouldalwaysgoouttogether,but weneverknewwhatdrinktoorder.I wouldgetthehouseredandNikkithe housewhite.”
TheduodiscoveredFrenchrosé (“mostlikelyatafashionparty,” saysBlumenthal),anditchanged everything.“Webecameobsessed withthelightpeachy-pinkcolorand refreshingtasteandwantedtolearn everythingwecouldaboutthewine,” explainsBlumenthal.“Atthetime,I wasn’tseeingarealfutureinmycareer andtherewassomethingverypowerful aboutournewfoundpassionthatI knewwehadtopursue.”
InAugust2013,BlumenthalandcofounderHuganirstarted@yeswayrose andsharedthebrand’sveryfirst Instagrampost.“Thedayofourfirst Instagrampostwasthedaywebecame entrepreneurs,”saysBlumenthal.“Now wehaveoneofthetoprosébrandsin thecountry.”
Sohowdidamagazineeditoranda graphicdesignerfindsuchsuccessin thewineindustry?“Howdoesthe sayinggo?Justdoit!”saysHuganir. “WhenwefirsthadtheideaforYes WayRosé,weknewnothingabout howtostartawinecompanysowe startedwithlifestyleproductsliketote bags,T-shirtsandsweatshirts.Wewere abletobuildourbrandthatway,while takingthetimetolearnasmuchas possibleaboutthewinebusiness.”
Whiletakingthejumpintobecoming roséentrepreneurswasaleapof faith,thingshavebeenmethodically plannedandbroughttomarket.“We liketomapoutwherewe’regoing,to havegoalsandleadwithavisionand purpose,”explainsHuganir.“That said,wealwayssayweneedtoleave roomforsomemagictohappen.”
Toescapetheday-to-daygrindof runningasuccessfulbrand,both BlumenthalandHuganirhave theirowngo-tooutlets.“Generally, Iunwindwithaglassorcanof crisp,chilledYesWayRosé!”says Blumenthal.“Butalso,Iliketotake hikesinthemorning,playtennis, readanovel,andlistentomusic. AnythingwhereIgettobewithout mycomputerorphoneisveryhelpful forunwinding.”
Huganir,whorecentlybecameamom, saysshemakessureto“findtimeto ‘turnoff’myworkbrainandbepresent withher.It’sbeenanewchallenge,but asuperfunone.”
Buthavingatop-sellingrosétakesa lotofeffortandhardwork—atask thatBlumenthalandHuganirare certainlyupfor.“Ourroséiscurrently thenumbersixroséinthecountry, andourultimategoalistoworkour waytothetopspot,”Blumenthal shares.“Everythingisinserviceof thatsowe’reveryfocusedonourcore products:oursignaturedryrosé,the rosécans,andoursparklingbrutrosé, allofwhicharemadeinthesouthof France.Firstup,wehaveanexciting packagingrefreshintheworksforearly nextyear.”
Asforwhat’snext:“Wehopethe journeyalwaysleadsusbacktothe SouthofFrance,ourhappyplace wherewemakethewine,”says Blumenthal.“We’veworkedveryhard forthepast10yearstogettothisplace andnowwewanttofocusonwhat we’vegrownwithasfewdistractionsas possibletomakeitevenbetter.”
It’strulyafamilyaffairfortheGeeBeautyfounder
Growingup,NatalieGeeandher sistersdidn’tspendalotoftime playingwithtoys.“Igrewupwith parentswhowereentrepreneurs,”Gee tellsGraziaUSA.“Insteadofplaying withdolls,Isetupacashregisterand createdimaginarybusinesses.”
Theearlyexposuretolifeasafounder madesuchanimpactonGeethat she–alongwithhermotherand twosisters–setofftocreateherown brand.Afemale-founded,familyownedmultigenerationallifestyle andbeautybrand,GeeBeautywas foundedinTorontoin2005;asecond Miamilocationfollowedin2011, withbothlocationsofferinghightechresults-drivenskintreatments, bespokebrowsandlashesalongwith customizedmakeupapplication.The retailshopfeaturesin-demandbrands likeAugustinusBader,Biologique Recherche,Dr.BarbaraSturm,Dr.Lara Devganand,ofcourse,thebrand’sown eponymousline.
“Iwasalwaysdestinedtohavemyown business,”saysGee,whoadmitsthat theideaofowningandoperatinga businesshaschangedsomuch.“What definedsuccess18yearsagowashaving peoplecomeintostores,seeaproduct andgivethemanexperience.Butnow somuchisaboutconnection—mostly
thankstosocialmediaandpeople’s desiretoconnect.”
Geesaysthebrand’ssuccessisabout customersbeingabletorelatetothe founders—withoutanyregardforage. “Customerscanalwaysfindthemself inoneofus,”Geesays,referringto hermother,Miriam,andtwoyounger sisters,CeleneandStephanie.“Weall representadifferentlifestyleandlook,” saysGee.“Somewomenwhoare30 lookatMiriamandthink‘wow,that’s howIwanttoage’”whilesomeolder clientsmightturntoGeeandher sistersforayouthfulreboot.
Afteryearsofdiscussinganddreaming aboutstartingthebusiness,themother anddaughtersdecidetomakeita reality.“Oneday,Isaidenoughofthe talkingandwesatatthekitchentable fortwoyearsmappingouttheplanfor GeeBeauty,”Geereveals.
Now,Geeandherteamgettowork withclientsonallaspectsofskincare andbeauty,whileshowcasingtheir dailylivesandadventuresonsocial media.“Wearereallygenerouswith whatweputonsocialmedia,and howmuchofourselvesweshare withfollowers,”admitsGee,who canregularlybefoundattheMiami locationchattingwithclientsand offeringheradviceandinsight.“I
havefallingbackinlovewithsomany aspectsofwhatIdo.”
PartofthejourneyforGeeBeauty hasincludedthemakeuplinewhich isavailableatGeeBeautylocationsas wellasJoannaCzechandKnockout Beauty.“IncreatingtheGeeBeauty makeupline,wewereansweringacall forourselves,”saysGee.“Wewanted tomakeiteasyforpeopletoputon makeupthatwouldtakethemallday fromameetingtotheplaygroundor dinner.Wewantpeopletoembrace makeuplikecoffeeandmakeiteasy, accessibleandallthetime.”
Geeacknowledgesthatmakeuplooks haveevolvedsomuchovertheyears.“I approachbeautyasalifestyleconcept, theretoemphasizeourgod-given features.Formepersonally,makeup hasbecomeapartofmyroutineand themorecomfortableyougetwith itthebetteritgets.Itrulyfeelthat womencanbeempoweredbydoing theirmakeup.Iwantwomentofeel incrediblewhentheywearaproduct ontheirskin,somethingthatmakes themfeelamazingwhentheystepout thedoor.”
ThePetite‘nPrettyfounderisempoweringayoungeraudiencewith age-appropriatebeautyproducts
SamCutler’spassionforallthings beautystartedayoungage.“Ihave alwaysviewedcosmeticsasanoutlet forindividualityandself-expression,” CutlertellsGraziaUSA.“Iremember myfirst-gradeteacherapplyingthick coatsofChanelmascaraandbeing mesmerizedbyherlashes.”
Acareerinthebeautyindustrywas theobviouspathforthefounderof BeverlyHills-basedbeautylinePetite ‘nPretty.“IknewthatIwantedto workinthebeautyindustry,soIlanded aninternshipattheMACProstore whenIwas17,”shesays.“Itwaspreinfluencerdays,andwewouldwork withincredibleprofessionalmake-up artistsbygiftingthemproductsand havethemteachmasterclasses.The followingsummerIinternedforMAC inthePRdepartment.Itwassomuch fun,butIrealizedIwantedtobeon thedevelopmentside.”
Aftergraduation,Cutlerlandedher firstcorporatejobworkingonthe MACProductDevelopmentteam.
Shesawagapinthemarketandthe ideaforPetite‘nPrettywasborn.
“Withmyexperienceworkingfor theseestablishedbrands,peoplewould askmeformyrecommendations onproductsfortheiryoungerkids, whichIneverhadananswerfor,”
Cutlershares.“Theproductsweren’t developedwithage-appropriate ingredientsandhadtonsofartificial colorsorchemicalsthatIwouldn’tlet myownchildrenuse.Ifeltlikethere wasthiswhitespaceofopportunity inthebeautyspacetocreatequality productsfortweens.”
With15yearsofexperiencedeveloping prestigebeautyproductsunder herbelt,Cutlerwasnostranger toinnovatingandlaunchingnew concepts,havingformulatedsomeof theindustry’sfavoritecultproducts.
“IlaunchedPetite‘nPrettyinthe summerof2018toencourageyoung creativestosparkleoutsidethelines whileexploring,expressing,and embracingindividualitywithproducts developedjustforthem.”
Theleapfromcorporatelifeto entrepreneurestablishedCutlerandher brandasthego-tofortweenbeauty, inspiringmanytofollowinherpath.
“Ithinkbeingthe‘first’inacategory isalwaysscary,butsincewehave launched,wehavenoticedthatmany morebrandshavelaunchedwitha youngerdemographicinmind,”says Cutler.“Blendingmybackgroundasa productdeveloperandmotherwiththe playfulglimmerofmyhometownof BeverlyHillstranslatedintoPetite‘n
Prettybecomingthe‘Gen-Zfavorite’ makeupbrand.”WithPetite‘nPretty continuingtogrow,Cutlerstillsees lotsofroomfornewopportunities. “Wehaveastrongdirect-to-consumer presence,butin-storeiswhereour youngerconsumeris,”Cutlerexplains. “That’swhywesellourproductsin storeslikeUltaBeautyandNeiman Marcus.Havingthatreal-liferetail presenceisimportanttous,butmost importantly,toourconsumerbase.” Beinganentrepreneurcanblurthe linesbetweenworklifeandpersonal life—butCutlermakessuretotake timeforsimplepleasures.“Ifeellike Iendupspendingalotoftimeinmy car,whichfeelscommonwhenyoulive inanarealikeLosAngeles,”Cutler admits.“Oneofmyfavoritemorning treatsispickingupacoffeefromCafé Luxxeandlisteningtomusiconmy waytowork.”
Cutlercontinues,“IreallylovewhatI doandhopetocontinuetogrowPetite ‘nPrettybeyondmywildestdreams, withafocusonsomenewcategories. Ourbrandstartedoutwithaneye shadowpaletteandlipglosses,butnow featuresskincareessentials.Ihopethat Petite‘nPrettyentersnewcategories suchashairandbody.Ifeellikethereis alotofopportunitythere.”
AsthedirectorandCEOofthe NewarkMuseumofArt,Linda Harrisonhastakenonamajorrole: bothtodevelopandcommunicate thevisionofthemuseumandto strengthenandexpanditstiestothe greaterNewarkcommunity,avibrant urbancityandthemostpopulousin thestateofNewJersey.
“AttheNewarkMuseumofArt, ourfive-yearplancallsformajor transformationatthis114-year-old institution,”HarrisontellsGrazia USA.“Inthenexttwoyears,weare aggressivelyworkingtowardsthe launchofMuseumParc,amulti-use redevelopmentprojectthatnotonly includesoutdoorartpavilionsanda glasshouse,butalsothedevelopment of250residentialunits,20percent ofwhichwillbeaffordablehousing.” Thisproject,Harrisonexplains, “willnotonlytransformtheareaof downtownNewarkwherethemuseum is–it’sgoingtochangetheentire city.Peoplewillbeabletolive,work andgrowinthiscityaroundMuseum Park.”
Harrisoncertainlyhasthepedigreeand thechopstogetthejobdone,aftera longandesteemedcareerworkingin corporateAmerica.“Igotmystartin ChicagoworkingforEastmanKodak
Companyandthat’swhereIlearned howtobecomeanentrepreneurwithin averycorporatestructure,”says Harrison,whorosethroughtheranks withinthecompany’smanagement program.“IthoughtIhadmadeit whenIwaspromotedtoseniorvice presidentatEastmanKodakandI wasrunninga$300milliondivision. Igotthecorneroffice,andIwasthe bigboss.ButthenIstartedtothink, ‘Whatelseistheretodo?’”
Asitturnsout,alot.Harrisonstepped awayfroma“safecorporatecareer”and movedtotheworldofnonprofitand culturalinstitutions.Afterarevolving dooroffailedleaders,Harrison becametheexecutivedirectorofthe MuseumoftheAfricanDiasporain SanFrancisco.“Iusedmyskillsto turnthemuseumaroundandestablish itasaprofitableandculturallyvalid institutionthatwasvaluedand cherishedinSanFrancisco,acitywith aglobalreputationforexcellencein artsandculture,”Harrisonsays.
Sincebeingappointedasthedirector andCEOoftheNewarkMuseumin 2019,Harrison—thefirstwomen ofcolortoholdthispositioninthe museum’shistory—hasmadeither missiontocreatespaceforeveryone whileunifyingtheNewarkcommunity
throughartandotherprogramming. “SoonafterIarrivedattheNewark MuseumofArt,Iinstitutedaprocess calledDesignThinking,whichis aniterativemethodthatencourages collaborationbetweendesignersand theircolleagues,”explainsHarrison. “It’saprocessthatIbelievedin andIwantednotjustourexecutive teamtobetrainedinit,Iwanted ourwholeteamtoparticipateinit. Ittakesabstractconceptsfromidea toexecution.Italsobringsdiverse voicesandopinionstothetableand ultimatelyhelpsuscometoconsensus aroundthebestapproachforthe museum.Overthelastfiveyears,I’ve seenthisprocessempowerourentire stafffromthegroundupandit’s helpedusbringourbiggestideasto life.”
PHOTOGRAPHY WANGXU EDITING DUYUNAI PRODUCTION AZIOFSTUDIO
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chainbagfeaturesextralargehardwareandcomesinpaddedleather, shearling,crystal,andcontrast-leathervariations.Thebagcanbewornby hand,ontheshoulder,orasaclutch.
InhisFall2023collectionfor Loewe,JonathanAnderson unveiledgarmentsthatappeared tobeexperiencingadigitalglitch. Thepieceslookedasiftheywere emergingfromascreen,theirforms becomingbeautifullyblurredin theprocess.Anderson’svisionary approachtofashionisnothing new;overthepastdecade,hehas transformedthestoriedSpanish brandLoeweintoamodern-day powerhouse.HailingfromNorthern Ireland,Andersonbeganhiscareer withamenswearlabelbeforetaking thereinsatLoewe.Histenureat thebrandhasbeenmarkedbyhis uniqueabilitytomergetradition withavant-gardecreativity.Fusing craftsmanshipwithinnovation,he oftenchallengestheconventional notionsofwhatluxuryfashioncan be.This‘glitching’dress,reminiscent ofadigitalageartifact,standsasa testamenttohisdistinctivedesign sensibility.
In2021,ParfumsChristianDior appointedFrancisKurkdjian,as perfumecreationdirector.Hewas taskedtoreinventtheiconicJ’adore fragrance,nosmallfeat.“Respect traditionanddaretobebold,” ChristianDioroncesaid.Inspired bythissentiment,Kurkdjianspun J’adoreintosomethingfamiliaryet distinctlynew.Theperfumerhas streamlinedtheheartofJ’adore, spotlightingclassicslikerose, jasmine,andthesunlitylang-ylang, conjuringanessencereminiscent ofliquidgold.Thisisn’tjustabout scent;L’OrdeJ’adoreevokesthe warmthofasunbeamorthesoft caressofapetal.Andtheattention todetaildoesn’tstopthere—the legendaryJ’adorebottlegetsachic update,adornedwithasubtlegold a44entanda $efinedglassbead< InL’OrdeJ’adore,Kurkdjianhas seamlesslymergedthepastand present,craftingafragrancethat’s bothclassicandcontemporary.
Celebratingitstenthanniversary, theMaxMaraTeddyCoatstandsas atestamenttoanenduringfashion icon.Eversinceitsdebutin2013,it hasfounditsplaceinthewardrobesof fashion-forwardwomen,symbolizing notjustplayfulglamourbutalso timelesselegance.Craftedwithplush, camel-huedfauxfurandadistinctive cocoon-cut,itembodiesMaxMara’s unwaveringcommitmenttoluxury anddesign.Aspartofthefestivities, MaxMaraintroducesthespecial editionSparklingTeddyCoat–a shimmeringodetotheclassicthat we’veallcometoadore.Aperfect waytocelebratealegacyofstyle.
Thefashionworldhasbeenbuzzing withthe“Balletcore”trendlately, aseverydesignertriestheirhand at 4$eatingthene@t Bi$alballet Cat< Det> amidstthis C#$$? o3 t$ends> oneshoeremainsatrueclassic thatstandsthetesto3 time<:nte$ E8!*:5 balle$inas> ast?leo$iginall? int$od#4edb?6a$l 5age$3eldin Ehanel)s !#t#mn;%inte$0+,/ shoA< 'hese CatshaBebe4omea Aa$d$obe staple 3o$ man?<7nspi$edb?9ab$ielle
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Indulgeinpureluxurywith LoroPiana.Thismeticulously handcraftedcapeistheultimate transitionalpieceasweheadinto fall.Thesumptuouscashmere, pairedwithchicstitchingalong thehemline> definespe$3e4tion< Thiscapeembodiestheessence ofversatilelayeringforthoseinbetweenweatherdays.Whether youchoosetopairitwithaT-shirt, alightweightknit,oracozy t#$tlene41#nde$neath>?o#)ll find endlessstylingpossibilitieswith jeans,trousers,orevenadress.The optionsaretrulyboundless.
Embarkonajourneythrough theenchantingworldof“Le GrandTour,”thelatesthigh jewelrycollectionfromVanCleef &Arpels.Thiscollectionisa vibrantcelebrationofwanderlust, withcaptivatingstopsiniconic destinationssuchasLondon,Paris, TheAlps,Venice,Florence,Rome, Naples,andBaden-Baden.Among thecollection’shighlights,the exquisite“Carriera”earringsfrom “LeGrandTour”standout.Crafted withmeticulousattentiontodetail, theseearringsfeaturedetachable pendantsadornedwithadazzling arrayofelements:rosegold,white gold,emeralds,tsavorite,garnets, blackspinels,whiteculturedpearls, anddiamonds.Theseearringspay tributetotheVenetianpainter RosalbaCarriera(1675-1757),a memberoftheRococomovement andoriginatorofthetastefor pastelsinFrancein1720.
TheGO-14Bag,oneofNicolas Ghesquière’searliestdesigns,earns itsdistinctivenamefromitsrunway debutinOctober2014,markingthe introductionofthewomen’sartistic directoratLouisVuitton.Now, in2023,itreturnstriumphantly, featuringauniqueelement: malletage,reminiscentofthebrand’s historicaltrunkcraftsmanship. &e$satilit? isadefining 4ha$a4te$isti4 oftheGO-14,offeringoptionsfor shoulder,arm,orhandheldwear. WhiletheGO-14isn’tnew,its plushleatheralignsperfectlywith thecurrenttrendofpuffy-padded bags.It’savailableinvariouscolors, rangingfromclassicblack-and-white tomoreunderstatedtoastedshades, revealingitsintricatetextures.This bagisamust-haveforfall.
VacheronConstantin’slatest Overseasmodelintroducesa retrogradedisplay,anodtothe brand’sheritage.Sportingasix-sided bezelreminiscentoftheMaltese crossandabluelacquereddial,the watchmarriesiconicdesignelements withmodernfeatures:aprecise moon-phaseandaretrogradedate. Establishedasanemblemofsporty elegancein2016,thisneweditionis housedina41mmsteelcasewith theCalibre2460R31L/2atitsheart.
Thismovement,visiblethrougha sapphirecaseback,boastsa40-hour powerreserveandrequiresmoonphasecorrectiononlyonceevery122 years.Foradaptability,theOverseas modeloffersaninterchangeable strapsystem,providingoptions insteel,calfskinleather,andblue rubber.Inessence,thenewOverseas modeldeftlyblendsVacheron Constantin’sesteemedwatchmaking lega4?Aith 4ontempo$a$?finesse<
CourtesyofAlexanderMcQueen’sFall/Winter2023collectionisthisluxeleather trench.Withitsdeep,richshadeofpurple,itstandsoutamongstaseaofneutral options,yetremainsincrediblywearable.Truetothebrand’shallmarkstyle,this coatshowcasespronounced,expertlystructuredshoulders–anodtothebrand’s legacyofcraftingempoweringsilhouettes.Whileatrenchcoatremainsastaple thateverywomanshouldhaveinherwardrobe,thispurpleleatheroptionserves asacontemporaryreinterpretationofaperennialclassic.
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Thepassageoftimebecomessomethingtolookforwardto whenthesedazzlingbeautiesaretheonesmarkingit.
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Withfashioninthespotlightthankstoaslewof Hollywoodblockbustersandstreaminghits,willstylists soonjoinwritersandactorsbehindthepicketlines?
FASHION andentertainmentareengaged inanawkwardlittletango.Ontheonehand, thetwohaveneverbeenlockedinacloser embrace.Towit:François-HenriPinault,the headofluxuryfirmKering,justsnappedup amajoritystakeintheLosAngeles-based CreativeArtistsAgency,orCAA.Musician PharrellWilliamsascendedtothethrone asmen’screativedirectorforLouisVuitton
earlierthisyear.AndGretaGerwig’s Barbie isnowthebiggestglobalWarnerBros. movieever,havingrakedinmorethan$1.34 billionattheboxoffice.Legionsofmillennial andGenZfansdutifullydocumentedtheir pilgrimagestothecinemainvariousshades offuchsia,includingmanywhodecidedthis wasasgoodanoccasionasanytoengagein retailtherapy.
It’sagoldeneraforintellectualproperty brandingatthemovies.RidleyScott’s House ofGucci hittheatersin2021,starringAdam DriverasGucciheirMaurizioGucciandLady Gagaashiswife,PatriziaReggiani,whowas convictedin1998fororderingahitonher husband.Thisyear,BenAffleckandMatt Damon’sArtistsEquityreleased Air,afilm aboutthedevelopmentofNike’sAirJordan shoe.Andholdyourpopcorn: Ferrari,anew sportsthrillercenteredonEnzoFerrari,just premieredattheVeniceInternationalFilm Festival.
Atthesametime,theWritersGuildandSAGAFTRAunionstrikesthatkickedofflastMay andJuly,respectively,arestillinfullswing.
Notsince1960hadtheAmericanwriting andactingcommunitiesjointlywalkedoffthe nation’ssets.Manyoftheissuesattheheart ofthelabordisputecenteronthestreaming businessmodel–whichaffectsresiduals,or thelong-termpaymentsnegotiatedbyunions forairingsafteraninitialrelease–andthe increasinguseofnewtechnologiessuchas artificialintelligence.
Industryrumblingssuggestfashion,hair,and makeupstylistsarepayingattention:Studiouse ofartificialintelligencecouldaffecttheirfuture, too.Theyclearlyplayasignificantroleinthe successandmarketingoffilmsandshows,but manyofthem–likewritersandactors–are freelancers,pinballingfromonegigtothenext.
Consider IndianaJonesandtheDialofDestiny, whichcameoutinJuneandplayswiththe notionoftimetravel.AccordingtoVariety, over100artistsatvisualeffectscompany IndustrialLightandMagicspentseveralyears ontheproject,relyingonarchivalmaterials frompreviousIndianaJonesfilmfootage,as wellasvariousclay-castmodelsofFord’shead tode-agetheactorusingmachine-learning equipment.Unionactorshaveexpressed concernsaboutthewaysinwhichtheirimage andvoicemaybeusedinthefuture,while writershaveobjectedtothepotentialuseofAI tocutcostsinscriptwriting.Whathappensif studiosdecidetointensifyuseoftechnologyin costuming?
LaurenGurganous,afriendandstrikingwriter whohasworkedon 30Rock, UnbreakableKimmy Schmidt and Girls5eva,saidcostumingand makeupwerea“hugepart”ofwhataudiences respondtoinviewingmoviesandshows. “Writersonlyhavesomuchspaceinascriptto
conveyacharacter’slook.Andevenifwehad thepagespace,mostofusarewearingthesame hoodieformonthsonend,soyoudon’twantus weighingintoomuchanyway.Yourcostume andhairandmakeupdepartmentstaketiny characterdescriptionsand,atanabsolutely ludicrouspace,workmagictobringthose peopletolifeatalevelyoucouldhavenever dreamedinyourbrain.I’malwaysblownaway bythat,”shesaid.
Theimpactoffashiononthesuccessof streamingproductionsisundeniable.When Netflixreleasedminiseries TheQueen’sGambit in2020,attheheightoftheCOVID-19 pandemic,itspurrednotonlyarenewed enthusiasmforchess,butalsoacollectiveswoon overactressAnyaTaylor-Joy’sPeterPancollars andA-lineskirts,selectedbehindthescenes bycostumedesignerGabrieleBinderandlater displayedinavirtualexhibitattheBrooklyn Museum.Similarly,actressRachelBrosnahan’s 1960s-inspiredwardrobefromAmazonPrime’s TheMarvelousMrs.Maisel wasondisplayatSaks FifthAvenuelastAprilaspartofamile-long tributetotheshow.CostumedesignerDonna
THEIMPACTOFFASHION ONTHESUCCESSOFSTREAMING PRODUCTIONSISUNDENIABLE
Zakowskapennedabook, MadlyMarvelous: TheCostumesoftheMarvelousMrs.Maisel,in whichshecomparedmaincharacterMidge’s impressivearrayofcolorfulcoatsto“the equivalentofasuperherocape—transfiguring, protective,emotionalarmorthatemboldens andempowersherasacharacter.”
Mostrecently,theslyshowcasingonHBO’s Succession of“quietluxury”hasledsomemidtierbrandstopositionthemselvesas“stealth wealth”starterkitsforthemasses.Fashion companieshavealsoseizedonthepopularity oftheshow’scastinadvertising.BrianCox, theBritishactorwhoplaysmediascionLogan Roy,starredinaFall2023campaignforKith, whilehisco-starNicholasBraun–thehapless yetcunningGreg–landedinaFather’sDay campaignforBrooksBrothers.
OtherHBOshowshaveprovidedmore opulentinspiration.ThesecondseasonofThe WhiteLotus,ashowthatgleefullypresentsa
castofdelusionaltouristsataluxuryresort–reportedlybumpedU.S.Googlesearchesfor Sicilyupby50percent,whilealsoboosting theprofileofcostumedesignerAlexBovaird, whotoldVogue,“Wekindofuppedourgame thisseasonintermsofpeopledressingupand peacocking.”HeidiBivens,theheadcostume designerforteenhit Euphoria,publisheda book– EuphoriaFashion –abouthermicro mini-skirts,zip-uphoodiesandstrappyheels. Meanwhile, AndJustLikeThat,thenew Sex andtheCity reboot,displaysluxurylogoswith abandon;isitacoincidencethataCanalStreet crackdowninAugustledtheNewYorkCity PoliceDepartmenttoseize$30millionin knockoffs?We’dhavetoaskcostumedesigners MollyRogersandDannySantiago.Allthree shows,ofcourse,spawnedcountlesswhere-toshoplisticles.
Theinfluenceofentertainmentonfashionis perhapsmostexplicit,however,inboxoffice franchises,andrecently,therehavebeenalot ofthem.Varietyreportedthat14Matteltoy brands,includingPollyPocketandAmerican Girl,arelineduptobethenext Barbie.The
FASHIONCOMPANIESHAVELONG UNDERSTOODTHEVALUEOFHITCHING THEIRBRANDSTOSTARPOWER
MarvelCinematicUniverse,populatedbythe likesofSpider-ManandCaptainAmerica,has unleasheditssuperheroesnotjustintheaters, butalsoonAsicsshoesdroppedinanexclusive withKith.DCComicslentitsGothamCity glamourtoLanvininSpring2022,when modelsstompedoutinBatman-inspiredlooks. AndcostumedesignerRuthE.Carterwon hersecondAcademyAwardforherworkon Marvel’shit BlackPanther:WakandaForever, inwhichsheoutfittedthecastindiverseduds fromHervéLéger,IrisvanHerpenandAdidas. Now,withAmericanshowbusinessonstrike, thereisincreasinglyanoff-cameraspillover effectinfashion.Artists,ofcourse,areno strangerstosidehustles,butthewalkoutis puttingastrainonguildmembers’personal finances:OnestrikingwritertoldNPRhewas nowearningalivingbysellinghandcrafted snowglobesonEtsy.Tomakeendsmeet, oratleastkeeptheirnameoutthere,many
performersareweighingtheprosandconsof frontrowappearancesatglobalfashionweeks. Unionrulesprohibitmembersnotonlyfrom performinginmovies,butalsofrompromoting thematfilmfestivalsorinpuffpieceswiththe press.Technically,however,actorsmightbe abletomakeaguestappearanceataboutique openingparty–theyjustriskseriousside-eye fromtheinternet,nottomentionincurringthe wrathoftheircolleagues.Itdoesn’tlookgreat tobesippingproseccoataParisfashionjunket whileyourfellowentertainerstugattheplastic onramennoodlepacks.SAG-AFTRAhaseven issuedanultimatumtosocialmediainfluencers whoarenotyetunionmembersbutaspireto be:Acceptingpaidpromotionalgigsforbig studiosandstreamingcompanies–oreven postingfancontent–isconsideredcrossingthe
Clockwisefromtopleft:Scenesfromthehit series Euphoria;MargotRobbieasBarbie;scenes fromthesecondseasonof WhiteLotus picketlineandscuttlesanychanceoffuture unionmembership.
Andyet,theshowsmustgoon.Fashion companieshavelongunderstoodthevalue ofhitchingtheirbrandstostarpower.There arestafferswhoseentirejobitistofinessethe relationshipbetweenbrandsandentertainers. Fashionbrands,afterall,areacomplex distillationofaspirationsandassociations;as thedesignerandconsumermarketingscion WalterLandorfamouslyobserved,“Products aremadeinthefactory,butbrandsarecreated inthemind.”
Fashion,likeentertainment,sells“dreams, imagination,andsparkle,”toborrowaphrase from Barbie –butthere’salotofhardwork underneaththesurface.Thisseason,keepyour eyesonthepicketlines.
Inhernewbookofpersonalessays BlackFriend,provocative comedian,TVhost,andwriterZiweFumudohwantsyou toknowthatsheismorethanatwo-dimensionalcharacter
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It’sNewYorkFashionWeek, andthecityiselectricand buzzingwithrunwayshows, influencerphotoshoots,and celebritysightings.It’sSeptember, thebeginningoftheNewYorksocial season,andthereisnoshortageoffancy parties,gatherings,galas,andgossip. It’sagreattimetobebackoutside— andtoseeandbeseen.
Comedian,TVwriter,andnowauthor ZiweFumudohisbookedandbusy. Hersocialandprofessionalcalendars arepacked,andsheseemstoenjoy allthepandomonium.“Imean, fashionweekisoverforme.It’ssucha whirlwindexperience,”shesaysflatly. “ButI’mreallypleasedwiththeevents thatIwentto.Iwasluckyenoughto dowhatIdidduringfashionweek.I presentedacoupleofawards,andthen Ishotabunchofcovers.Butyeah,it
wasgreat.Ican’tcomplain.”
SomecriticssaythatNewYork FashionWeekhaschangedandbecome morelikeabrandmarketingcircus featuringpop-upevents,cavalcades ofinfluencers,andVIPpartiesversus seriousfashionshowsfilledwitheditors andbuyers.“Unlessyou’relikemeand youfindcircusesfun,”Ziwequips. “Chaosismyfavorite.It’smylove language.”
OutsideoftheislandofManhattan— inForestHills,Queens—inaparallel socialuniverseistheU.S.Open,which isconsideredfashionadjacent.Like NewYorkFashionWeek,theU.S. Openisclutteredwithcelebrities— theObamas,NicoleKidman,Spike Lee,LeonardoDiCaprio,Shonda Rhimes,Lil’Wayne,andthenew rumoredcoupleKylieJennerand TimothéeChalamet(makingoutin
thestands).Theothercommonality between#NYFWand#USOpenisthe presenceoftheiconicAmericanVogue editorAnnaWintour,whoisliterally holdingcourt.
Manycelebsweretherethisyear cheeringonayoungBlackwomanwho wasn’tafashionmodelbutatalented andoutspokenathlete.Alleyeswere onCocoGauff,19,thefirstAmerican teenagertowintheU.S.Open ChampionshipsinceSerenaWilliams. ItwasGauff’sfirstGrandSlam. ZiwewenttotheU.S.Open,but unfortunatelywasn’tabletoattend Coco’swinningmatchbecauseofher busyworkschedule.“Shoutoutto Cocoforbeing19andwinning,”she saysenthusiastically.“Ijustamsuch afanofhers.Ithinksheisastar!”
Withoutmissingabeat,sheadds:“I lovethathergrandmotherwaslike oneofthefirstpeopletogotoan integratedschool.Andso[Coco]has thislegacyofdisturbancesotospeak. Goodtrouble.Ithinkthat’sreally cool.”
WhileZiwemissedCoco’sshining momentIRL,shewasabletoattend themen’sfinalbetweenNovak DjokovicandDaniilMedvedev.Trueto form,Ziwecausedherownmediablitz andbuzzthatday.Sheandherfriend, supermodelEmilyRatajkowski,were sittinginaprivateboxrightinfrontof actressandsingerLeaMichele,starof theBroadwaymusicalFunnyGirl,and herhusband.
“LeaMichelesittingbehindZiweand EmilyRatajkowskiattheUSOpen. Ineedafullbreakdownofany&all interactions,”FrankCosta,aBravo producer,postedonX(formerly Twitter),receiving26,000Likes. Theseatingcausedquiteascene inthestadiumandastironsocial mediabecauseofZiwe’scontroversial interviewninemonthspriorwith Michele’sformer Glee co-starAmber Rileyaboutallegedallegationsof racismonthesetofRyanMurphy’s hittelevisionshow.AccordingtoPage Six,ZiwepressedRileyaboutMichele. “Ithinkthatshewouldprobablysay
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shedoesn’tseerace,”Rileysaid.“But everyonedoes.”
AccordingtoBuzzFeed,theaccusations beganin2020whenMichelespoke outinsupportoftheBlackLives Mattermovementafterthemurderof GeorgeFloyd.Inresponse,Michele’s formerGleeco-starSamantha Warecommentedabout“traumatic microaggressionsthatmademe questionacareerinHollywood.” Michelelaterpostedanapologyon Twitter.
Backatthetennismatch.“Itwassuch aninterestingevening,”Ziwesays, plainlyreferencingmeetingMichele. “Yes,wespoke.Itwasiconic.She’san icon.”Whenaskedwhatshethought aboutthatmomentwithMichele goingviral,Ziweresponded:“Sorry, Ididn’tevenseethat.LetmeGoogle thatrightnow.Believeitornot,I don’tGooglemyself,butholdon,let mesearch.”Thesoundofnailsclicking onherphone.“Oh,thisisalot.Page Six.TheNewYorkPost,theDaily
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Mail,BuzzFeed.Wow!Yeah.”
InaNewYorkminute,theformer talkshowhostadds:“Itwouldbea privilegetositdownwithanAmerican iconlikeLeaMichele.Isawherin FunnyGirl,andshehadanincredible voice.Itwouldbeapleasuretotalkto herontherecord.”
Ziweisknownforherblunt“woke” styleofinterviewing,questioning,and directlychallengingeveryonefrom FranLebowitz,GloriaSteinem,Drew Barrymore,andRoseMcGowanamong othersabouttheirrelationshipwith, proximityto,andconsciousnessabout Blackness.Michelewouldbeaprime subjectforZiwe.Astheysayintennis: Game.Set.Match.
Ziweisabitofaparadox—as evidencedbyherself-reflectivenew bookofpersonalessaysentitled Black Friend (onsaleOctober17,2023).“I thinkthatthehardestpartsforme towritewerethemomentswhenI amvulnerable,”Ziweexplains.“I startedwritingthisbookanditwas alittletooheadyandtheoretical.It wasreallyencyclopedicaboutpop culture,whetherthat’slikeBritney Spearsperforming,‘Oops,IDidIt Again.’Orliketheinterviewbetween BarbaraWaltersandRickyMartin. JamesBaldwinandMayaAngelou’s conversationabouthowsuccessasan artistcanreallybetothedetrimentof art.”
Shecontinues:“Iwasreadingthisbook andit’slikehowamIgoingtoconnect toanaudienceifIoffernothingof myself?Andatthetime,Iwasreading AllAboutLove bybellhooks.Andso whatshedidreallywellinthatbook ofessayswasshewouldtalkabout communityandchildrenandallthese elementsofloveandthenconnectit toherpersonalexperiences.Andso Ifoundmyselfreallyappreciating thatinherbookand,like,reverse engineering.”
Ziwehadtopracticeunlearningto accesshervulnerability.“Youknow, culturallyI’maNigerianwoman,like you’retaughttonevershareanything aboutyourself,”Ziwemuses.“Like youdon’tknowwhatmyfavoritejuice is,myfavoritecolor,nothing.And
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tocreateabookthat’sworthitssalt, Ineededtoshare.Andsothatwas probablythehardestelement.”Ziwe tacklesissuesthataredeeplypersonal like“whyIwasself-consciousabout mylooksandwhyIfeltlikeanugly duckygrowingup,like,firstinpublic schoolinMassachusetts,andthen inprivateschoolMassachusettsand howthataffectedmeasanadult,”she shares.“Soovertime,becauseofthe booksIread,Iwasabletopeelthose layersandreallyshowpartofmyself thatIwasinitiallyreticentaboutand stillveryreticentabout.Thisbook allowsmetopresentmyrealself.It’s deeplyintimidating,butalsoreally, hopefully,rewarding.”
Livinginthisdualityisnothingnew forZiwe.Asachildshesays:“Iwas reallywell-behavedandsomyparents wouldgetpulledasideatrestaurants andtold,‘Wow,yourdaughterisso quiet.’ButthenalsoIwouldmake themwatchmeperformthe Hercules soundtrack.[laughs]I’mamiddle child,soI’masmuchofahamasIam anintrovert.Ithinkthat’swhatthe caseisnow,”Ziwesayscontemplating. “Maybeit’sthereverse.MaybeI’m quietinthehouseandoutinpublic, butIdefinitelyliketobealoneto recharge.Iwasabletowriteabook.” Ziweisprocessingthisidea.“Ithink I’vealwaysbeenfunny,”shesays,now moreconfidently.“Iwasvotedclass clowninhighschool.Peoplewho knewmegrowingupwouldnotbe surprisedbymycareertrack,even thoughithappenedreallyorganically. ButIwasalwaysreallyfunny.Andthe momentIknewwhenIhadimportant thingstosay.EverysingletimeI’dsay somethingimportant,peoplewould say‘Wow.That’simportant.’That’s whenIwaslike,‘Wow.IguessIhave
somethingimportanttosay.People havenotaskedmetostoptalkingyet.” Ziwe’sversionofthisOprahformula is“halfluck,halfperseverance.”It wasduringherjunioryearofcollege atNorthwesternUniversitywhere shewasdeeplyattractedtosatire.She appliedforaninternshipatComedy Centralandwasoneofeightpeople chosen.DonaldGloverwasinthe internshipprogramsoitseemed likeagoodidea.“Italignedwith myinterests,anditalignedwith whereIwantedtobeprofessionally,” sheexplains.“Thatsortofgotme intoaplacewhereIunderstoodthat entertainmentwasjustabunchof peopleworkingatdesksasopposed towhatyouseeonTV.Suddenlyit becamereally,reallyaccessible.And Iusedthataccessibilitytointernat TheOnionand,like,tostartmyown humormag.
Aftergraduation,Ziwepursuedthe entertainmentindustry.Shewas inspiredbyGloverandIssaRae, saying,“Obviouslyshestartedwithher self-producingAwkwardBlackGirl, whichsortofstartedtheYouTube-totelevisionpipelinethatIultimately endedupfollowingbydoingBaited [onYouTube]andthenIGLive andthenShowtime.”Sheisalsoa “vociferous”readerandreadbooksby TinaFey,MindyKaling,andSteve Harveythatservedasherguide.She wasahugefanofStephenColbert andJonStewartwhoalsohadbooks comingout.
“Informationispowertome,”Ziwe saysflatly.“Iwasoneofthoseannoying youngpeoplethatwouldemail,email whoever,andsay,‘Hi,I’mZiwe,and I’dlovetohearmoreaboutyou,um, andyourposition.Iwouldtakethose interactionsreallyseriouslyandlet
Ibelieveluckispreparationmeeting opportunity.Ifyouhadn’tbeen preparedwhentheopportunitycame along,youwouldn’thavebeenlucky
thosewordsmentormeaswell.” “AndthenOprah,obviously.Oprah’s likeahugeinfluencetome,”Ziwe gushes.“Ithinkthatshereally pioneeredaformofsensational journalismwithherworkonthe OprahWinfreyShow.Sheisacultural juggernautinherinfluenceinlifestyle aswellasherinterviewininfluence asareporter.”Shecontinues:“What wasreallycaptivatingaboutheristhat shehadsuchrangeasareporter,so shecouldinterviewTomCruiseand getreallywildquotesandthentalkto themotherofaserialkilleraboutwhy herchildwasweirdandalsogetreally compellingquotes.AndsoIthinkthat thatissomethingthatIdefinitely,like, refertowheneverI’mfeelinglostasan interviewer.WhatdidOprahusedto do?Oprahisapioneerandshe’sopened manyadoor.”
WhatZiweknowsforsureisthatshe isexcitedthatthebookisdone,gone totheprinters,andnothauntingher anymorewithdeadlines.Shecannow baskintheafterglowoftellingthe storyofbeinga BlackFriend.
“Thetitle BlackFriend sortofcomes fromthismediatropewherethere’s alwayslikethesidekicknexttothe protagonist,andtheytalkalot,right? Theyhaveallthegoodjokes.And they’resomeofthebestcharacters,but youneverreallygetasenseofthem beingmorethantwo-dimensional. Inpublic,Iamveryverbose,but you’realwayssortofconnectingto anaudienceviameasaprofessional writer,”Ziweshares.“Likemyjobis towritedownwordsandthenhand themtosomeoneelsetosay,orin mycasetheotherworkI’vedonefor myself,likewritedownwordsand thensitinitandthenfilteritthrough acharacter.”
Ziweisnowlivingherbest multidimensionallife.“Likeeventhis weekIamposinginVictoria’sSecret, andthenmyNewYorkerexcerpt comesouttomorrow.Like,thatis suchaprofessionalwhiplash,”shesays deadpan.“SoIfindthattobereally funand,like,justatestamenttohow dynamicIcanbeasthisartist.But,I takeitadayatatime.”
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ACelebrating10yearsofshowing atNewYorkFashionWeek, eco-pioneerCollinaStrada’sfirst bookisyourtickettotherevolution
fterasummerof catastrophicglobal weathereventsandwith amassivehurricane churningthroughtheAtlantic duringNewYorkFashionWeekin September,thecityfeltlikeithadbeen transformedintoasubtropicalclimate zone.Nooneseemedtoknowhow todressfortheSpring/Summer2024 showswhenitwasalternately90-plus degreesandmuggyortorrentially raining—orevenwhattheethics areofparticipatinginoneoffashion’s biggestmarketingmomentswhenthe planetissoclearlyhurting. Justbeforesunsetatarooftopfarm intheBrooklynNavyYard,Collina StradafounderHillaryTaymour addressedtheissueheadon,sending modelsoutincolorfulslipdresses, cargopants,andone-shouldertops bricolagedtogetherfrombitsof upcycledandregeneratedfabrics.To theaccompanimentofarather-onthe-noseOyindasongfeaturingthe lyrics“Whyarewehere?/Theearth isonfire,”theystrodepurposely forward,smilesplasteredontheir faces,carryingcopiesofTaymour’snew visualmanifesto, ICareaLotta,IWear CollinaStrada.Taymouralsowaved acopyaloftasshetookherbow.The skyturnedcottoncandypink,King Princessappearedtoplayasurpriseset, andsooneveryonewasvibing.Many peoplestoppedbytheintern-staffed merchkiosktograbacopyofthebook
aftertheshow.WelcometoCollina Stradaworld,whereclimateawareness, prettydresses,andhopecancoexist. Taymour’sbook,publishedthisfallby Rizzoli,isa232-pagecompendium oftrippyimageryfromherfirst20 NYFWcollections.(Sheoriginally launchedCollinaStradain2008as anaccessorieslabelwhilestudying fashiondesignattheFashionInstitute ofDesignandMerchandisingin LA,anddebutedherfirstready-towearcollectionforSpring/Summer 2014.)Highlightsincludemodels transformingintokangaroos,tigers, anddolphins(Fall/Winter2021)and sportingIsamayaFfrench-designed animalprosthetics(Fall/Winter2023).
ThetitlecomesfromanotherOyinda songTaymourregularlyplaysduring herfashionshows.
Co-createdwithCollinaStrada’sart director,CharlieEngman—who
TaymourmetviaaCraigslistad whenshefirstmovedtothecityin 2010— ICareaLotta,IWearCollina Strada exploreshowshemadeher now-signaturecosmicallydyeddresses andrhinestone-studdedreusable waterbottlesaplatformforsocialand environmentalchange.“Istayhopeful bymakingcuteclothesthatawoman canruletheworldin,”saysTaymour, onlyhalf-jokingly.“Iwanttocryall thetime,butIjusttrytoknowwithin myselfthatwithwhatI’mdoing,I’m hopefullyinspiringsomeoneelseand helpinginthewaythatIcan.” Taymour’sparticularbrandof environmentalismiswelcomingand non-judgmental.Fortheuninitiated, herbookincludesasustainability cheatsheetwithhelpfultipslike“use deadstock,”“beslow,”and“perfectis thefrenemyofgood.”Taymourwould rathergiveyouavegancookiecovered
inrainbowsprinklesthanmakeyoufeel badabouthavingsomepiecesinyour closetthataren’tmadefromorganicor recycledfibers.Sheprioritizescommon senseandwantstoencourageyouto buyless,andmorethoughtfully.“If therearetwodressesonarackandone issustainableandoneisn’t,butthegirl likestheotherone,thenthat’stheone sheshouldbuy,”saysTaymour.“She’s goingtowearitmoreandit’snotgoing togointhelandfill.”
Ofcourse,Taymourthinksit’sgreatif youwanttowearherclothes.They’re primarilymadefromupcycledmaterials includingsecondhandT-shirtsfrom Ghanaandorganic,biodegradablerose sylkderivedfromrosebushes.Butat theendoftheday,it’syourdecision. “Youhavetohaveanemotional connectiontothegarmentitself,not becauseI’mslappinglabelsandgreen recyclesignsalloverit,”shesays.
SENSUALDESIRE,CARNAL INFATUATIONS,PRIMAL INSTINCTS.REDFOREVERY RHYMEANDREASON.
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I’M BELIEVABLE BECAUSE I’MREAL
DirectorSergioLeonecalled him“thefaceofSatan.”He’s playedJesus,PierPaoloPasolini andVincentvanGogh.Most recently,hepresentedtwomovies attheVeniceInternationalFilm Festival,includingthesurprising PoorThings,inwhichheplays ascientistwhobringsawoman backtolife.WillemDafoe’s strengthliesinhisabilityto transform.Here,heexplainshow healwaysmanagestodisappearin hisperformances,revealingonlythe charactersheplays.
Thatdeepvoice,thegreeneyes,thecraggy faceofarockstar.BeforeusisWillemDafoe, Hollywood’skingoftransformation,whoisjust ascomfortableinblockbusterssuchas SpiderMan:NoWayHome and Aquaman asheisin morecomplexauteurfilms.
Hisresumespeaksvolumes:nooneelse hasplayedsucharangeoftormentedand unforgettablecharacters.Hehasbeenthe painterVincentvanGogh,thewriterPierPaolo Pasolini,andevenJesusChrist.Hisportrayal ofthescientistGodwinBaxter,whobrings EmmaStonebacktolifein“PoorThings,”was darkerstill;itwillreachtheatersinJanuary andpremieredatthe80thVeniceInternational FilmFestival.ReactingtoStone’scharacter, BellaBaxter,criticsimmediatelylaudedthe filmasfeminist,sayingitchangesthewaywe tellwomen’sstories.Rarelybeforenowhad therebeensuchconvincingrepresentationsof femaledesireandsexuality,andit’sthescientist playedbyDafoe–aproductofthehighlychaste Victorianera–whoresurrectsBella,albeitfrom amaleperspective.
Theactoralsogaveamasterfulperformancein WesAnderson’s“AsteroidCity,”whichreached theatersSeptember14.HewasinVeniceaspart ofthecastofSaverioCostanzo’s“FinallyDawn,” inwhichheplaysAmericangalleristRufus Priori;thefilmwasselectedtocompeteforthe GoldenLion.
ThisinterviewwithDafoetookplaceright beforeHollywood’sactorsandwriterswenton strike,whichiswhywecouldn’taskhimabout hismostrecentprojects.Fortunately,however, theactorwasabletosharemanylittle-known factsabouthiscareerandhislifeinItaly.Heis marriedtodirectorGiadaColagrandeandlives inRome.
Youhaveappearedinover140movies.Howdo youdoit?
IstilllovemyjobasmuchasIdidthedayI started.Actingmakesmefeelalive.
Whenyou’reofferedarole,whatcriteriado youuseindecidingwhethertoacceptitorturn itdown?
Iliketoworkwithfilmmakerswhohavea personalvision.I’mhappyforthemtousemeas aninstrument.Ihidealltracesofmyselfandlet myselfengagewiththestoriesofthecharacters theyaskmetoplay.
Doyoudoyourownstunts?
Ialwayspursueauthenticity.I’mconvincedthat asanactor,you’reonlybelievableifyou’rereal. So,ifIcan,Idoeverythingthat’srequiredfora character.Physicaltrainingisanintegralpartof anactor’sworkandI’mabeastinthatsense,I diveintothemostrecklesssequences.Don’tget mewrong,I’mnotsayingthistobe“macho,” I’mjustsayingitasanactorwhounderstands thatthehumanbodyisafundamentalmeansof expressioninthislineofwork.
Whatdoyoudowhenyou’renotworking?
Thetruthofthematteristhatworkismy favoritehobby.Ispendtimereadingscriptsand daydreamingaboutmycharacters.I’malways busy.
Youneverstopped,notevenduringthe pandemic?
No,Ikeptworking.I’mnotsomuchobsessed withworkaswithmypassion,andIchosethis
jobpreciselybecauseitwaseverythingIever wantedtodo.That’swhyafteralltheseyears Istillwakeupeverymorningwiththesame enthusiasmforwhatIdo.
Iknowyoupracticeyoga.Doyouhaveany othertipsforkeepingenergyandenthusiasm high?
Worryaslittleaspossibleaboutthingsyoucan’t change.
Suchasthepassageoftime?
Forexample,yes.
Doesn’tthefutureoffilmmakingworryyou atall,givenconcernsabouttheimpactof streaming?
I’mnotagainststreamingplatforms.Onthe contrary,theymakeart-housecinemaand independentfilmsmoreaccessibletoalotof peoplearoundtheworld,andtheyallowusto viewworksthatareunknownorimpossible tofind.Butseeingamovieinthetheateris somethingelse;it’sasharedexperiencewiththe strangersittingnexttoyou.
Isthereanyoneyoufeelobligedtothankfor yoursuccessasanactor?
It’snoteasyformetoanswerthatquestion.Ican saytherearedirectorswhobelievedinmeand gavemethechancetoshowwhatIknewhowto do.
Forexample?
WalterHill,whogavememyfirstrealstudio experience.Hecastmeinmymoviedebut, “StreetsofFire,”andallowedmetoexperience avarietyoffunstuffonset.Whenheoffered methechancetoshootawestern40yearslater [Editor’snote: DeadforDollar],Iaccepted immediately,anddiscoveredthatneitherofus hadchanged.
AndyourfriendWesAnderson?
WithhimIhaveahardtimecallingit“work,” becausebeyondadmiringwhathedoes,Ilike spendingtimewithhim.Hisformofcinema isveryclosetoanartisancraft.It’simpossible togetboredwithadirectorwhoissofullof creativityandtalent.
TheysayyourmeetingwiththeItalian directorSergioLeonedidn’tgosowell. Iwasabigfanofhismovies,untiloneday hecametothepresspresentationof TheLast TemptationofChrist andsaid,referringtome: “ThisisnotthefaceofourLord,thisistheface ofSatan!”Let’sjustsaythathiscommentleftme withfeelingsthataren’texactlypositive. Whenyou’reaskedtotakeonahistorical character,suchasJesus,PasoliniorvanGogh, howdoyouapproachthetaskathand?
Iimmersemyselfinthestudyoftheirlivesand works,notwiththegoalofimitatingthem,but topaytributetothem,withgreathumility.My worktendstobeintenseandvisceral,sothat sometimesIstarttolooklikethecharacterI’m playing.Peoplearesurprisedandtellme:“You know,youreallylooklikethatperson!”
YouevenstartedpaintingtoplayvanGogh. Paintingwasessentialtotellhisstory,soI learnedhowtodoitandhonedmyskills.I alwaysenjoyexploringnewmeansofexpression. WhatstayedwithyouaboutPasolini?
Hispoetry,hiscinema,hisvisionarynature,and politicalreflections.They’resomethingthatstill inspiresmetomoveforward,andIfindthat they’reamotivatingforceforeveryone,anywhere intheworld.
Whatremainsofthesegreatgeniusestoday?
Thebrillianceoftheirart,theirloveforculture, thatexistentialmixofimpatienceandpassion, therestlessnessexpressedinanunfulfilleddream ofreturningtosimpleandsacredthings.The exampletheysetinknowinghowtofollowmany differentpathsandbecomfortablebothwiththe culturaleliteandkidsoffthestreet.Butmost ofall,theabilitytoscandalizepeoplewhilealso inspiringthemandmakingthemthink.
Cleancuts,solidcolorsanda‘70sflair. Welook,onceagain,towriterJoanDidion forinspirationofbothsubstanceandstyle.
JumpsuitandtopbyCHANEL,(800)550-0005.Shoes byChristianLouboutin,us.christianlouboutin.com. NecklacebyCelinebyHediSlimane,celine.com. SunglassesbyTommyHilfiger,tommyhilfiger.com.
AllclothingbyMarciano byGuess,marciano.com. BootsbyRogerVivier, rogervivier.com.
SuitbyKarlLagerfeld,karl. com.ShirtbyMarinaRinaldi, us.marinarinaldi.com.Boots andnecklacebyCelineby HediSlimane,celine.com.
SuitbyStellaMcCartney, stellamccartney.com. SweaterbyLuisaCerano, luisacerano.com
DressandheadpiecebyGiorgioArmani,armani.com.
Theseductiveallureofnatureisalwaysinstyle
PHOTOGRAPHY ESRASAM STYLING ANNACASTAN
Top,skirt,andboots byFerragamo,ferragamo.com.
Top,skirtandshoesby Sportmax,sportmax.com.
ASFASHIONCREATESASTABLEOFHORSEGIRLMUSTHAVES,ACTUALRANCHPROSHAVESOMEQUESTIONS.
SARAHMILLER wasconfused. Thethoroughbredhorsetrainer wasonaEuropeanvacation—afar cryfromherworkingfarminrural Virginia—andcouldn’twaittovisit theequestrianfashionmeccaHermès. Millerwatchedasawomangrabbeda $1,800blanket,whippedouthercredit card,andannouncedtotheBerlin boutiquethatitwasforhermare.
“Ofcourse,Iwasintrigued!”Miller says.“It’sasmallindustry.MaybeI knewthehorse!ButwhenIaskedthe womanwhatkindshehad,shetotally
frozeup.Shewaslike,‘Um,abrown one.’Abrownone?!Comeon.”When Millerintroducedherselfasanactual horsepro,thewomanadmittedthe purchasewasn’tforheranimal—itwas forhercouch.“Iguessthat’sagood thing,”Millersays.“Ahorsewouldnot enjoyanHermèsblanket.Itwouldbe arealwasteofmoney.”
Millerhadstumbledintothemiddle offashion’scurrentrodeoobsession, wherefunctionridessidesaddleto form,andeveryonewantstobepart ofthemaneevent—butsometimes
WORDS FARANKRENTCIL
TheManeEvent:Model NnyawurhChuolwalks theStellaMcCartneyFall/ Winter2023showinParis.
BestinShow:Cowboy bootsoncatwalkattendees inParisandCopenhagen.
onlyonInstagram.“Itstartedwith Yellowstone,ofcourse,”explains ranchownerAbbyHirschi,whoruns near-dailycorralsattheRockBranch HorseandCattleCompanynearthe ShenandoahValley.“We’dneverhada showlike MadMen thatmadeourlives intomust-seeTV.Itreallystarteda stampedefortheclothes.”
Tobefair,fashionhaslongbeen lassoedbytheallureoftheAmerican West.(Seealso:theMidwest,South, Southwest,Northwest...basically,any
themythicalfreedomofheritageon horsebackhadfirmlybrandeditselfon fashion’sflanks,withDiorlaunching itsfamoussaddlebagin1999and StellaMcCartneymakingChloe’s famoushorseprintdressin2001. Aroundthesametime,formerfarm girlLuellaBartleynamedherbuzzy debutfashioncollection,“Daddy,I WantaPony.”Heropeningmodel wasaformerBrazilianteentrailrider namedGiseleBündchen.
BesidestheRiobombshell,many
andevenBellaHadidwasonthejunior Olympictrackforhorsebackriding beforemountingacatwalkinstead. Butlately,therodeo-to-runway pipelineisgettingverycrowded. Cowboybootsarebecomingso ubiquitousonrunwaysthateven decidedlyun-horseybrandslikePrada andGivenchymakethem;they’ve alsogivenrisetoa“coastalcowgirl” trendthatcombinesthebeachynetted dressesandocean-bleachedcutoffsof the OuterBanks castwiththeweathered hatsandcarvedleatherbeltsofthe BrokebackMountain costumetrailer. (Thetrendhasnearly200million viewsonTikTok;bycontrast,“only” 115millionpeoplewatchedthe2023 SuperBowl.)Salesspikedsomuchat thecheekyWesternfootwearbrand ParisTexasthatthisMarch,thelabel gotacquiredbytheBrazilianmegafirmArezzo&Co.forawhopping$27 million.Meanwhile,Chanel’scouture showendedwithPrincessCharlotte CasiraghiofMonacogallopingpast frontrowguestslikeMargotRobbie andPharrellonherownAndalusian steed.(HisnameisKuskus,and actually,random-woman-in-Hermès, heisabrownone!)
Currently,hairdyesearchesfor “cowgirlcopper”—amaplered shademadepopularbymodelEmily Ratajkowski—areup50percent inGoogle’strenddatabase.Andof course,perennialhorsegirlStella McCartneyhadsevenponiesatherFall 2023catwalkshow;modelswalked throughbarnmuckpastthem.Now KendallJennerridesbarebackthrough McCartney’sfallfashioncampaign. Sheisnakedexceptforfaux-ponyskin bootsandamatchingpurse.
wide-openspaceyoucansayyou’re “from”withouteverhavingtogo backthereonceyougrowup.)And manyluxurylabelshavealegitclaim toridingvibes.Hermèsbeganasa harnessmakerin1837;Stetsonbegan makingridinghats28yearslater.By thetimeRalphLaurenreinedinhis takeoncowboychicinthe1980s,
otherfashionmuseshavebeenhot totrot.GoddessEdieSedgwickwas aCaliforniahorsegirlatherfather’s ranchbeforehoofingittoMax’sKansas City;supermodelChristyTurlington wasscoutedbyamodelingagentwhile competingatahorseshowinMiami. AliMichaelwasaTexasshowjumper beforebecomingafaceofCalvinKlein,
“Iactuallyloveseeingmodelson horseback,aslongastheycanactually ride,”saysRoseBrown,whosefamily ranchbreakscoltsandwildmustangs thatcomefromacrosstheAmerican Southwest.“KendallJennerisavery accomplishedhorsebackrider.She’s partofourcommunity.Shegrewup doingitandit’sclearshewouldnever putthehorseoranyoneelseindanger.
Left:Diamond CrossRanchTee
Below:Prada CamperosBoots
Shelovesthehorseandthehorseloves her.That’sfine!”
“Honestly,Ithinkposingonahorse likethatlookslikeablast,”echoes Miller.“Iwouldn’tchangeathing. KendallJennerandStellaMcCartney arerealriders.It’smorethegirls inNashvillewhowearbarngearto brunch,butit’sspotless.Youcantell they’veneverbeentoabarnintheir lives.MyfriendsandIalwayshave agigglewhenweseethem.”Adds Hirschi,“Inthebeginning,everyone wantedtowearcowboyboots,and thatwasfine.Itwasfun!ButthenI startedseeinginfluencersfromAustin andMiamisponsoredby[rodeo] gearcompanieseventhoughit’sclear they’veneverracedorevenriggedtheir owntack.AndIwaslike,‘Wait.How isthishappening?’”
Longmaysherein:HorsesattheRenaissance tour(above)andCharlotteCasiraghi atChanel’sSpring2022Coutureshow
Theanswer,inpart,isBeyoncé. Whenthequeenofbasically everythingbeganhersold-out Renaissancetour,stylistShionaTurini createdaseriesofshow-stopping“disco cowboy”looksbyGucci,Alexander McQueen,andPatBo,whichthepop iconwearswhiledancingonamirrorencrustedhorsesculpture.Theeffect paidhomagetothe‘80sballroom scenecreatedbyLGBTQ+community leaders,alongwithBlackrodeoriders andrancherswhosecontributionsto theAmericanWestandcowboyculture havelonggoneunacknowledged. Theeffectwascoolashell,anditwas alsodeepwithmeaning.Byfusinggay iconographyandBlackhistoryinto thenotoriouslywhite,conservative, BibleBeltmindsetthatoftenanchors ranchingcommunities(andcertainly drivestheirpoliticalvotes),Beyoncé andherimage-buildersaresaying thequietpartoutloud:Riding cultureandrodeoeventsmaynot havealwayswelcomedthoseoutside themainstream,butthey’repart ofthecommunitypatchworkthat makesWestern-wearlooksogood… sometimesliterally.
Forinstance,whenHaileyFrederiksen becameMissRodeoAmericain2022, theColoradoropingqueenchoseto spotlightFentyBeauty,theinclusive shadebrandcreatedbyRihannaand ateamofBlackbeautymoguls,asshe reignedacrosstheRockyMountain rodeocircuit.“Iswearbythisstuff,” shevowedinherfirstofficialbeauty videoafterwinningthecrown. “It’sbeenmygo-tosinceIstarted competing[asarodeoqueen]threeand ahalfyearsago.Itlaststhroughany weather.Itismynumberone.”Asthe Southernrodeocircuitpicksupthis fall,barrel-racingwomencansporta pairofdaisy-embroideredbootsfrom GeniaLee,a40-year-oldMississippi nativewhosesmallbusinessistheonly cowboycobblerownedbyaBlack womaninAmerica.There’salsobeen apushonsocialmediatomakethe
horsegirlaestheticmoreinclusive—a missionthat’sdeartoCanadianrider JenSpencer.OnherpopularInstagram channel@BlackEquestrians,she championstheriseofcowgirlstyle (“fashionandhorses—whatmoredo youneed?!”)aslongasitincludes all thecowgirls.
AccordingtoHirschi,true“cowgirl
waistandwiderleg,whentraining andcompeting,thoughthebrand’s CowboyCutjeansispreferredwhile doingstabledutybecauseitcanbe tuckedintoaBlundstonebootwhen muckingstallsorhaulingfeed.To mergethespiritoftherodeowithher homelandofRodeoDrive,Hollywood princessSarahStaudingerofStaud
chic”shouldalsoreflecttherealityof workingwithhorses.“Ifyouwantto wearacowboyboot,itshouldn’thave azipper,”shesays.“That’sgoingto damageyourtack.”Hirschidoesn’t mindthebedazzledandfloralembroideredbootsbycool-girllabels likeGannianditsuntouchableolder sisterTheRow.“Rodeoqueenswear embellishedcowboybootsallthe time.It’spartofthecultureandit’s wonderful.”Butifyou’regoingtobuy them,trytooptforAmerican-made footwearthat’salreadysupporting thesmallfamilyfarmsandranches thatupholdkeyslabsofthecountry’s economy.Sometotry:ThefemalefoundedlabelMironCrosby,the Montana-basedBabioneWilson,and theDallasbrandKatMendenhall—the cobblermakesentirelyveganversions ofhergrandpa’sfavoriterodeoboots. There’salsoLucchese,theheritageboot brandthat’sbeenacowboysolemate since1883.Experiencedridersand ranchersfavorthem;sodoTexas-bred designerslikeBrandonMaxwell,who collaboratedwiththelabelforhis2018 collectionandmadecustompairsfor KarlieKlossandGigiHadid.
Asfor“cowgirl”denim,American Eagleisapopularpick,thankstoits bootlegcutthatactuallyaccommodates apropercowboybootandspurs.Rodeo riderslikeRookieCowgirloftheYear KortneeSolomonfavorWrangler’s RidingJean,whichfeaturesahigher
recentlycollaboratedwithWrangler, too,onalineofbluejeanbasicsthat “aretimelessbutfeelfresh.”Theyare modeledbyawomanwith—yes— “cowgirlcopper”hair.
Speakingofhair,thelongtime beautymyththatMane‘n’Tailhorse shampoo—aformulacreatedatthe StraightArrowranchinruralNew Jerseycirca1970—stillholdssway. CelebritieslikeKimKardashianand SarahJessicaParkerarereportedly fansofthestrengtheningsprayand conditioner…asareranchers,cowgirls, andhorsetrainersaroundthecountry. “Itreallydoeswork,”saysMiller.“I alsousesomeskincreamthat’smeant forthehorseswhenIneedacutor blemishtohealquickly,”shesays,“but youcanonlygetitfromahorsevet.” Sothestablegatescanstillgatekeep somethingsinHorseGirlWorld… butsomebarnsaretakingthereins backfromthefashionscene,and makingtheirownmerchtoridethe trend.AtDiamondCrossRanchin JacksonHole,Wyoming,designer KirbyLindley—aformerMissTeen Texaswho’snowmarriedto4th generationrancherLukeLong— createsgraphictees,knitwear,and workshirtsbasedonherowndaily stablegear.Piecescost$48—$98,and Lindleyis fine ifyouwearherpullovers withoutpullingyourquiveringbody ontoanactualhorse.“Butyou should sometime,”shesays.“It’ssofun.”
Whatdoes“officeattire”looklikewhenyou don’tneedtogototheofficeanymore?Inourpostpandemic,working-from-homeworld,designershave reconceptualizedmodern-daysuiting.
PHOTOGRAPHER JIMMYFONTAINE STYLISTANDCREATIVE DIRECTION KARENLEVITTATARTDEPARTMENTLA
ThisPage:Jacket,skirt,top, belt,shoesandglovesby SaintLaurentby AnthonyVaccarello,ysl.com; Metalnecklaceby RareRomance,rareromance.com;Pearl necklaceandearrings fromPauméLosAngeles, paumelosangeles.com.
Oppositepage:Coat, shirtandtiebyDolce& Gabbana,dolcegabbana. com;HatbyEugeniaKim, eugeniakim.com;Watches byGirard-Perregaux, girard-perregaux.com; H.Moser&Die, h-moser.com.
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Fromleft:Dressby Off___White,off–white. com;Keychainby BondHardware,bondhardware.com;Earringby STUDIOCULT,studiocult. co;SneakersbyNike,nike. com;ShoefringesbyMarcia Lacheratthemillineryshop. Etsy.com;Dressby Off___White,off–white. com;Crossbodybeltby BondHardware,bondhareware.com;Shoesby T.U.K.,tukshoes.com;Shoe fringesbyMarciaLacherat themillineryshop.Etsy.com.
Thispage:SkirtbyMarc Jacobs,marcjacobs.com; EarringsbySTUDIOCULT, studiocult.com.
Oppositepage:Allclothes andshoesbyThomBrowne, thombrowne.com;Hats byEsenshel,esenshel. com;HandringbyMAM, mamoriginals.com;Earring fromPauméLosAngeles, paumelosangeles.com.
Thispage:Allclothingand accessoriesSchiaparelli, schiaparelli.com.
Oppositepage:Jackets, shorts,bagandring(as broach)byCHANEL,(800) 550-0005;Hat byRedSeptember.Collar byBootzyCouture, bootzycouture.com; EarringbySTUDIOCULT, studiocult.com;Glasses fromPauméLosAngeles, paumelosangeles.com.
PHOTOASSISTANTS GREGAUNEANDMIKE
DEROSA STYLISTASSISTANTS CHARDONNAY TAYLOR,RYANJACOBS,SHENEQUECLARKE MAKE UP BYTHEOKOGANATARTDEPARTMENTUSING DIORBEAUTY MAKEUPASSISTANT TARINA MEADERS HAIR JENNIIVAWIMMERSTEDTAT PARADISNYCUSINGBUMBLEANDBUMBLE HAIR ASSISTANT VANESSAVEREA NAILS FRANCES LIANGUSINGJINSOONABSOLUTEBLACK SET DESIGN BETTEADAMSFORMHSARTISTS SET DESIGNASSISTANTS EMMETPADGETAND BELL PRODUCTION AGPNYC PRODUCTION COORDINATOR SASHAERNST CASTING KATYA CHERNETSOVA MODELS SHELBYATUNITEUNITE, AYELENSONGATREMADEMANAGEMENT,GEO ATONEMANAGEMENTSTUDIO:HOOKSTUDIO SPECIALTHANKSTOTHEWYTHEHOTEL
JacketandpantsbySacai, sacai.jp;HarnessbyVex Latex,vexclothing.com; ShoesbyMarcJacobs, marcjacobs.com;Bagby BondHardware,bondhardware.com;Earrings fromPauméLosAngeles, paumelosangeles.com.
Clothingandaccessories byTODS,tods.com.
Whilethefallseasonisinfullswing,letusnever forgetthatdivinesummerholiday.
PHOTOGRAPHY ESRASAM STYLING ANNACASTAN
Clothingandaccessories byDolce&Gabbana, dolcegabbana.com.
AllclothingbyMissoni,missoni.com.
WhenTommyBuckettrestored his1845GreekRevivalfarmhouse,inCopake,NewYork, hebeganwithstrippingitback...wayback.
WORDS YALEBRESLIN
IT’SOFTENSAID,THEBESTPARTABOUT LIVINGINNEWYORKCITYIS…LEAVINGIT. Temporarilyputtingtheratracebehindyouand escapingtoalocalethatoffersallthingsthat theconcretejungledoesn’t:greenery,sweeping landscapes,calm,andtheopportunity(andspace) todream.Forin-demandhairstylistTommy Buckett(andhisfashioneditorhousemate), theirgoalwasasenseofserenity.Theyrecently purchasedahouseinCopake,NewYork,that wasmodeledaftera1845farmhousethatsits directlyacrossthevalley,mimickingthehistoric oneitfacesontheothersideofthevalley.Best part?It’sashortdrivefromwheretheylivein theBigApple.Theirmissionwasasgrandas itwassimple:Restoreauniquepropertyaway fromtheircitylivestohelpbalancethechaos andnoiseoftheircomplexprofessionalschedules. Anditmakessense.They’vebeenfriendsforover 15years,sotheyknewwhattheyweregetting themselvesinto.Theirhome,aptlycalledHigh MeadowTreeFarm,isnestledatopnineacreson aserenecountryroad,directlyacrossatreefarm withmajesticviewsoftheTaconicRangeand valleyasitsbackground.
Theirthree-bedroom“countrysidetreasure,” astheycallit,wascompletelyrestoredwhile stillpreservingthestructureandhistoryofthe farm.Theirfirststep?“Wejuststrippeditback. Wayback.Weslappedwhiteonthewallsand bleachedallthewoodandthefloorstocreate ablankcanvas,”hesays.“Thisallowedusto createanentirelyfreshstart.”Here,wetourtheir uniqueabodeandlearnabouttheirrestorative (andhandy)processandwhyworkingwithabest friendhasbeentheirbestendeavoryet. Howdidyoucometothisideaofbuyinga propertyoutsideofthecity?
IgrewupinasmalltowninMichigan surroundedbynatureandwilderness.Living inNYCfor20years,Icravedthat.Iwanted asimplerwayoflivingonweekendsand somewhereIcouldrefocus.MyhousemateandI grewupverysimilarly.Wehadthesameideaof whatpeaceandquietwasandtosharethiswith yourbestfriendisgreat.
Canyoutellmealittlebitaboutthestructure?
Therewasoneownerbeforeus.HighMeadow TreeFarmwasbuilttomirrorahousethatsits directlyacrossthevalley.It’san1845Greek Revivalfarmhouse.What’samazingisthatwesit acrossthevalleydirectlyacrossfromthehouse thatwearecopiedfrom,sowearemirroringeach other.
Whataresomeofthekeydetailsthatare importanttothehome?
ThethingthatIlovethemostisthatthereare windowseverywhere–abouttwoorthreetoone wall.Wedon’thavewindowtreatmentsandit’s sonicetotakeitallinyear-roundandseethe seasonschange.Welookoutsideatthetreefarm ononesideandweseeacornfieldontheother. There’snothingbetterthanthesweepingviews ofthismagicaltreefarmperchedonahillabove it.Itreallydefineseachseasonandtheviewis stunning.
Whatdrewyoutothisproperty?
Forme,it’stheviewsofthemountains.It remindsmeoftheBlueRidgeMountainsin Virginia.
Whatdidyoudototransformit?
Wejuststrippeditback.Wayback.Lotsof whitepaint.Gallonsandbuckets.(laughs). Werefinishedthefloorsandwetookdownall thecabinetsinthekitchenandputinopen shelvesandnewappliances.Wealsochanged allthelightningfixturesaroundthehouseand sourcedallnewfurniture.And,Ican’tforget, wegardened–alot.It’sbeenverymuchona budget,whichmakesitsogreat.
Itjustprovesyoudon’tneedalotofmoneyfor somethingtobebeautiful. What’sitlikeworkingwithafriendonthis project?
It'sveryluckywehavethesametasteininteriors. Therewasn’talotoffightingorcombative conversations.Wewereonthesamepagewith whatthehouseneeded.We’vegottenquite handyalso.WefindourselvesYouTubingprojects andfiguringoutawaytodoit.We’reverylucky. Itwasagreatlaughtobehonest.Thetreefarm –TheHighMeadowHouse–isaloveletter tosomeoneveryspecialthatwelostalongthe way.It’salivingloveletter,andithasbeengreat therapy.Andwenevergetboredofblasting recordsinthemiddleofthenightandtrying paintingsonofallthedifferentwalls.
Thepropertyisbreathtaking.Whatinspired theaesthetic?
Ithinktheinteriordesigniswhitepaint(laughs). Wewanteditcleanandsimple.There’sashaker styletoitwithabitofa1970svibe.Golden colorsandwarmtoneswithtexturedfabricsand pillows.Wewantedthehometofeelcomfortable andcozyandnottoofussy.Whenitgetstoo precious,youdon’twanttouseitasmuch.For instance,thecustomyellowshadeofkitchen cabinets.Wecallit“TawnyBiscuit”.Wejust wantedthingsthatwerelighterandmorefun.
Thewholepointisforittobecomfortable.If somethingspills,it’snottheendoftheworld. Throwitinthewashandmoveon.
I’veheardlotsofpeopletalkaboutthe communityinUpstateNewYork.Itseemstobe reallyspecial.What’sitlike?
Weusedtostaywithagroupoffriendswho boughtahousetogether,sowereallyfellinlove withthecommunitylongbeforegettingthis house.Beingheresooften,yougottobumpinto yourneighborsmoreandreallygottoknowthe peoplearoundyou.InCopake,therearetonsof
agegroupsfromyoungtooldertoretirees.It’s beenareallylovelycommunity.
Whatdoyoufeellikewhenyou’reawayfrom thecity?
Simply,IfeellikeIcanbreathe.Itfeelslike returninghometomyself.Livingherereminds meofhowmymemoriesofchildhoodwere.It’s exactlyhowIrememberthemfeeling.
Doyouhaveafavoritepartofthehome?
Handsdown,it’sthetreeswing,forsure.Right now,wehaveafreshbatchoftrees.Whenwefirst boughtit,itwasfullofChristmastreesbutnow
it’smoreleafy.Theleavesjustblowandshudder inthesummerbreeze.Ialsolovethekitchen becauseit’sreallyspecialtome.Peoplewillsit aroundthefirewhilesomeoneelseiscooking.It’s quitealovelywaytospendafallevening.There’s alsolightatalltimesandthelightchangesfrom themorningtoafternoontoevening.Ithinkit’s importantthatyoutakeinthelightandtake thetimewhereyoucanjustrelaxandenjoyit.It changesandyouseetheseasonschange.Spring budsintosummerleavesintocolorsofthefall. It’sallaroundyouandyouaren’tcoveringitup. Whatdoyouwantpeopletofeelwhenthey’re insideyourhome?
Comfortable.Andatease.Butalso,it’smoreof whattheycanhear:thefrogs,thebreezeandthe corinthianbells.
Anythingelseyou’dliketodotothehouse?Or, isitdone?
Imean,Ialwayshavearestorationbug.Idothis inthecityandinCopake.Ilovetorenovate.I lovetheprocessofrippingthingsoutandseeing itallgobackup.Iwouldlovetodotheupstairs bathroomandIwouldlovetoaddalargestone patioonthefrontwithapergola.Thereare alwaysthingsyouwant–butrightnow–I’m verycontentwithhowthehouseis.
Thisfall,NewYork’sJewishMuseumpresentsthefirstmajormuseum showonChloé’spath-breakingfounderGabyAghion
WORDS ALISONS.COHN
There’ssomethingso quintessentiallyFrench aboutthegirlishinsouciance ofChloéfromthebillowing silkpussybowblousestothewildhorse printsandsweetbroderieanglaise.
Eventhenamesoundslikethatofsome inimitablychicParisiennewhoknows herHélèneCixousfromherLuce Irigaray.TheChloéwomanisaboveall smart,cool,andworldly.She’sawoman verymuchlikethesixfemalecreative directorswhohavehelmedthelabel overthepastquartercentury:Stella McCartney,PhoebePhilo,Hannah
MacGibbon,ClareWaightKeller, NatachaRamsay-Levi,andGabriela Hearst.
WiththeexceptionofRamsay-Levi, noneofthehouse’srecentcreative directorsarethemselvesFrench (HearstisUruguayanAmerican,and theothersareBritish).Perhapsmost intriguingly,neitherwasChloéfounder GabyAghion,whodiedinParisin 2014atage93—atleastnotinitially. AJewborninAlexandria,Egypt,she immigratedtoParisintheaftermath ofWorldWarIIandlaunchedChloéin 1952.Aghionnamedherlabelaftera
friend,ChloéHuysmans,claimingthat shelikedtheelegantroundnessofthe lettersandtheyouthfulfemininitythe nameconveyed.
Thisfall,theJewishMuseumpresents “MoodoftheMoment:GabyAghion andtheHouseofChloé,”open throughFebruary18,2024,thefirst majormuseumshowontheFrench maison.Ittellstheforgottenstoryof Aghion’sJewishrootsandthepivotal rolesheplayedindefiningthefashion industryasweknowittoday.The exhibitfollowsthemuseum’srecent showsontwopath-breakingJewish
CoatdesignedbyMartineSetbon,Fall/Winter1990
“Angkor”dressdesignedbyKarlLagerfeld,Spring/Summer1983
BlousedesignedbyGabrielaHearst,Fall/Winter2021
ShirtdesignedbyStellaMcCartney,Spring/Summer2001creatives:cosmeticsentrepreneur HelenaRubinsteinandDowntown GalleryfounderEdithHalpert,anearly championofmodernarticonslike GeorgiaO’KeeffeandJacobLawrence. “She’savisionarywomanwhochanged thecourseofhistory,”saysdirector emeritaandexhibitionprojectdirector ClaudiaGouldonwhysheselected Aghionforthefinalinstallmentofthis trilogy.
Throughpersonalphotos,“Moodof theMoment”chartsAghion’searly yearsinEgyptandherarrivalin Paris,whereherhusbandestablished anartgalleryandthecouplewere soonwelcomedintotheLeftBank intelligentsia.AlthoughAghionhad longbeeninterestedinfashionandthe caféswheresheandherfriendshung outwereonlyacoupleofmilesfrom thehautecoutureateliersonAvenue Montaigne,herbourgeoisbohemian milieumightaswellhavebeenlight yearsawayfromthehideboundworld wherecouturierslikeChristianDior andCristóbalBalenciagacreatedmadeto-measuregarmentsforhighsociety. NearlyadecadebeforeYvesSaint Laurentlaunchedhisprêt-à-porter label,RiveGauche,Aghionbegan stagingfashionshowsovercroissants andcaféaulaitatherfavoriteSaintGermain-des-PréshauntslikeCafé deFlorandBrasserieLipp.Models strolledbetweenthetablesinorderto emphasizetheeasymovementoflittle dressesshesoldofftherackinnearby boutiquesandwhichwereinspiredby thelightweightfashionsshehadworn growingup.“Chloéwasalwaysahead ofitstime,andtheworkisactuallyjust
veryelegantandsimple,”saysGould. Aghionwasthefirsttoadmitthatshe wasn’tagreatdesigner.Butshewas excellentatdefininghousecodesthat resonatedwithprogressivemodern womenandsurroundingherselfwith atalenteddesignteamwhocould helpherriffonthem.Thehouse’s longeststandingcollaborationwas withKarlLagerfeld,whojoinedthe housein1964andbecameitsface untilheleftforChanelin1984.The exhibitfeaturesnearly150garments, includingrepresentativeexamplesfrom eachofChloé’sdesigners,including
aKarlLagerfeldviolindress,aStella McCartneybananaprintT-shirt,anda PhoebePhilojumpsuit.
Thefinalroomintheexhibitis dedicatedtothemosticonicofall Chloécodes,thepussy-bowblouse (Aghionherselfalwaysworeonewitha blackskirt),andfeatures50iterations insoftshadesofcream,milk,honey, andgold.Theblouseshaven’tbeen steamed,whichisanintentionalchoice sotheylookasthoughawomanjust tookthemoff.“Whenyouuntiethe bowthere’salittlecrinkle,”saysGould. “Itshowsyou’velivedinit.”
NewYorkCityBalletringsin its75thanniversarywithnew costumesbyCarolinaHerrera creativedirectorWesGordon
ThelistofdesignercollaboratorsforNewYork CityBallet’sannualFallFashionGalareadslike theultimatefashionRolodex.CarolinaHerrera, RafSimons,DriesVanNoten,VirgilAbloh, andSarahBurtonarejustafewofthe30names whohavedesignedcostumesfortheannual celebrationofdanceandfashionoverthepast 12yearsandwhoseworkiscelebratedinanew Rizzolimonographtitled NewYorkCityBallet: Choreography&Couture Thismonth,aspartofthecompany’syearlong 75thanniversarycelebration,currentCarolina HerreracreativedirectorWesGordonhaslent hishandtothecompany’scostumeshopfor aspecialeditionofthefallgalatocelebrate NYCB’sco-foundingchoreographersGeorge BalanchineandJeromeRobbins,fashion,and
WesGordon fitsanewcostumedesignforGeorge Balanchine’sWhoCares?onTilerPeck,2023 WORDS ALISONS.COHN
NewYorkCity.“IlovedanceandIloveNew York,”saysGordon.“I’msoproudtobeaNew YorkerandtoshowduringNewYorkFashion Week.NewYorkCityBalletissuchacrucial partofourculturalcommunity,sotobeapart ofitsanniversarycelebrationisreallyanhonor.” BalletomaneandfashionistaSarahJessica Parker,avicechairoftheNYCBBoardof Directors,premieredtheFallFashionGalain 2012withaneveningdedicatedtoValentino Garavani.Buttherelationshipbetweendance andfashionatNYCBgoesmuchfurther back:Balenchine’sdailywalkspasttheVan Cleef&ArpelswindowdisplaysonFifth Avenuefamouslyinspiredonehismosticonic works, Jewels,a1967balletinthreeacts featuringdancersdressedasemeralds,rubies, anddiamonds.Forthegalaperformanceon October5,Gordondesignednewcostumes
Clockwisefromtopleft:WesGordon’ssketchesforhis newcostumedesigns,2023;JudithFugateandRobertLa FosseperformingGeorgeBalanchine’s WhoCares? inthe originalcostumesbyKarinska,1989;MarcHappelandWes Gordondiscussingfabricoptions,2023
foranotherofBalanchine’sbelovedballets, WhoCares?,a1970workinwhichGeorge Gershwinstandardslike“IGotRhythm” and“EmbraceableYou”serveasthebasisfor syncopatedgroupdancesandbalmy,romantic duets.
PasteditionsoftheFallFashionGalahave featurednewcommissionsfromup-andcomingchoreographers,andNYCB’sdirector ofcostumesMarcHappelprettymuchgave designersworkingonthoseshowscarte blanche.Someoftheirdesignswerepretty unconventional,likeZacPosen’stutus cantileveredatsurprisingangles,Christopher JohnRogers’svoluminousneonforms,or PalomoSpaindesignerAlejandroGómez Palomo’sdeconstructedtailoringcoveredin 800,000Swarovskicrystals.
Thegalaperformanceofanexcerpt Who
Cares? marksthefirsttimethecompanyasked adesignertoredesignthecostumesforan existingBalanchinemasterpieceandwiththat camecertainparametersfromthetrustthat overseesthelegendarychoreographer’screative legacy.Karinska,theOscar-winningcostume designerwholedNYCB’scostumeshop from1964-1977,createdthework’soriginal designs.Herballetbodiceswithlayeredshort skirtswornbythefemaleprincipaldancers, weregivenarefreshbyTonyAward-winning productionandcostumedesignerSanto Loquastoin2013.“Itwasaboutadheringto theoriginalcolors,silhouettes,andshapes,but withamoderntwist,”saysGordonofhisdesign process.
Happel’sassessment:“Thecostumesverymuch haveWes’sstampofelegantsimplicity,with reallybeautifuldetails.”Gordonhasextended theclassic WhoCares? silhouetteinadance dresslargelymadefromstretchpolycrepein
I’MALWAYSHOPING THATALLTHESE SPEEDINGTRAINS WILLENDUPAT THESTATIONAT THESAMETIME
MARCHAPPEL
dreamyshadesofblue,pale,peachypink,and adarkerfuchsia.Hisdesignsfeaturealonger skirtwithopaquepanelsthatopentoreveal godetsofpleatedtullewhenthedancerspins. Theyalsofeaturedelicatesequinandpaillette embroiderybyFinesse,anIndianembroidery atelierthatCarolinaHerreraherselfintroduced HappeltowhenshecollaboratedwithNYCB onthe2014gala.
Creatingsuchintricatecostumesis,itself,an impressivefeatofstagecraft.“It’sallhappening indifferentplaces:Thepleatingisdonehere inNewYork,theembroideryishappeningin Mumbai,andthentheactualdressesarebeing cutoutandconstructedhereinourcostume shop,”saysHappel.“I’malwayshopingthatall thesespeedingtrainswillendupatthestation atthesametime.”
TheLadyD-Litebag,MariaGrazia Chiuri’sriffontheiconicLadyDior bag,combinesHouseheritage withHousemodernity.Seen here,embroideredwiththenewly introducedPlandeParismotif–inspiredbyDiorarchives–centered aroundtheMaison’shistoric addressonAvenueMontaigne.The frontfeaturesaChristianDiorParis signaturewhiletheD.I.O.R.charms inpalegold=finishmetalembellish andilluminatethesilhouette.
PHOTOGRAPHY VLADIMIR MARTI
CREATIVE DIRECTION& STYLING MARNESCHWARTZ
