GRAZIA USA - SUMMER 2024

Page 1

SIENNA MILLER

I don’t think I’ve ever been this happy at any point in my life

SUMMER 2 024
USA
DIOR.COM –800.929.DIOR (3467)
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SUMMER 20

108

When night falls, true glamour shines.

The Summer 2024

Meet the change agents who are blazing a new path and inspiring a better future by rede ning what it means to be successful. 42

For super-stylist Guido Palau, hair is all about expressing your truest self – and everyone is invited. 48

Sunshine, daydreams! Gwen Flamberg expounds on the best new beauty essentials to add to your routine for the sexiest season of all.

Sweet like candy: From blush to magenta, this unexpected neutral suits every skin tone.

This season’s top 10 most wanted.

In the garden of Eden, there are no rules.

With a new baby, a role in Kevin Costner’s new epic, and a new life in London, Sienna Miller is— nally—living life very much at her own pace. Which isn’t to say she’s slowing down.

A bathing suit is not an evening dress.

Ti any & Co. reveals Ti any Wonder in Tokyo, its largest and most prominent exhibition to date.

Going to a concert and dressing like a grown-up? It’s possible.

124 HOT TOWN

Summer in the city is sometimes inescapable, so if you can’t slip away, simply stay and slay.

130

L.A. CONFIDENTIAL

As the temperature rises, so do this season’s hemlines. With a touch of mod styling, you’re sure to be the main character of this summer’s sexiest story.

148

WE WEAR SHORT SHORTS

This summer’s tailored mini shorts have a long and surprising origin story.

154 FLEX APPEAL

This in-between season means mixing trainers with leather and knitwear with tailoring. Dressed up dressing down never looked so good.

162 DREAM WEAVER

Diotima designer Rachel Scott is on a mission to unite artisanal craft traditions across cultures.

168

IT’S BEEN (SUR)REAL

A great look can take you from day to night, but the best look is perfect everywhere.

180

THE ONE AND ONLY NAOMI

This summer, the super of all supers gets a solo show at London’s V&A Museum.

188

U—F—O

Uniquely Fashionable Object.

190 VIVA ITALIA

Journey through iconic Italian retreats for a sun-soaked summer.

196 THERE'S A PLACE IF ...

Experience French air, a taste of Italy and Middle Eastern vibes at these globally in uenced restaurants.

198

ON THE COVER Dior T-shirt, dior.com; Cartier High Jewelry necklace, platinum, ruby, diamonds, cartier.com.

2020
22 CONTRIBUTORS 23 MASTHEAD 24 LETTER FROM THE EDITOR 26 AGENDA
Agenda. 34 GAME CHANGERS
Arts
ALL
INCLUSIVE
THE GREATS
54 THINK
PINK
HOT LIST
58
68 ONLY LOVE
80 NEW HORIZONS
94 WTF WITH JOAN JULIET BUCK
OF
98 A WORLD
WONDERS
AFTER
HOURS
120 ROCK
OUT WITH YOUR FROCK OUT
A PRESTO
24
Alessandra Rich dress, alessandrarich.com; Re ection de Cartier earrings, 18k white gold, diamonds, Cartier High Jewelry necklace, platinum, ruby, diamonds, cartier.com.

CONTRIBUTORS

You can listen to JOAN

JULIET BUCK’s sharp reviews at Joan of Art—on Apple, Spotify, Audible, etc.—and read them on her Joan of Art Substac . The author of the acclaimed memoir The Price of Illusion has second Substack , a clear-eyed diary titled Every Day Until I Die.

LUKE CRISELL is a writer and creative director living in London. Previously the executive editor of NYLON, during the indie sleaze era, he has written about art, travel, and entertainment for magazines including Elle, Monocle, and New York and newspapers such as the Independent, the Sydney Morning Herald, and The Observer. For this issue, he visited Sienna Miller at her home in West London, 15 years after his last interview with the actress.

Born and raised in England, photographer and lmmaker JEM MITCHELL spends most of his spare time running up things or mountain biking down things. He lives in the countryside and divides his work life between London and New York.

SANTA BEVACQUA is an international creative and fashion editor based in Los Angeles, with over 18 years of extensive experience in fashion and media across Milan, New York, Paris, and London. Santa served as a contributing editor for Grazia Italy for a decade, and her work has graced the pages of eminent publications such as GQ, Vogue, Interview, Dazed & Confused, Tatler.

Gucci dress, shoes and bag, gucci.com.

JOSEPH ERRICO EDITOR & CHIEF CREATIVE OFFICER

GIACOMO PASQUALINI CREATIVE DIRECTOR

CONTRIBUTORS

CASEY BRENNAN FEATURES EDITOR

JOAN JULIET BUCK CULTURAL CRITIC

ALISON S. COHN STYLE FEATURES EDITOR

SHELBY COMROE FASHION EDITOR

LUKE CRISELL COVER EDITOR

GWEN FLAMBERG BEAUTY EDITOR

ALYSSA HAAK COPY EDITOR

FARAN KRENTCIL STYLE EDITOR

CYNTHIA MARTENS EDITOR AT LARGE

AMANDA PETERS EDITORIAL CONSULTANT

MELINDA SHECKELLS

SPECIAL PROJECTS EDITOR

ANDREA VOLBRECHT PRODUCER

DIGITAL

JESSICA BAILEY

INTERNATIONAL EDITORIAL DIRECTOR

KARLI POLIZIANI DIGITAL DIRECTOR

Printing by Quad; Distributed by CMG

Grazia USA (www.graziamagazine.com; UPC 0-74820-40390-7) is published quarterly by Reworld Media US Inc. 122 East 42nd Street, 18th Floor, NY, 10168 USA. Reworld Media US is a branch of the Reworld Media Group

Grazia is a tradermark registered and owned by Reworld Media Italia Srl. For further details, please write to graziainternational@reworldmedia.com © [ 2023 ] Reworld Media Italia Srl. All rights reserved. Published by “Reworld Media US” with the permission of Reworld Media Italia Srl. Reproduction in any manner in any language in whole or in part without prior written permission is prohibited.

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2323
SUN IS SHINING, THE WEATHER IS SWEET MAKE YOU WANT TO MOVE YOUR DANCING FEET...

I think Sienna Miller might be my favorite person to shoot.

When choosing our cover star for the summer issue, Lauren, my super-connected friend, suggested Miller – who is starring in the upcoming Kevin Costner epic, dropping this summer. I immediately agreed. I hadn’t seen the movie, had yet to witness her ridiculous cameo on the nal season of Curb Your Enthusiasm, and if I’m being honest, hadn’t really heard much from the Sienna-sphere since Anatomy of a Scandal. I just agreed. Whole-heartedly, because, well... Sienna.

I am not the architect here, I don’t know why some people are just born preternaturally bloody cool but Miller is one de nitely of those people.

Twenty years ago, while at Interview Magazine, my editor, the iconic Ingrid Sischy, sent me to London for my very rst time, to shoot my very rst cover, with the artist Sam Taylor Wood (now Sam Taylor Johnson). The subject was an actress starring as Edie Sedgwick in Factory Girl. I read George Plimpton’s Edie: An American Girl in preparation, had shoulder-duster earrings commissioned from Erickson Beamon, grabbed some tights and sweaters, and away I went. Little did I know at the time that the “subject” would turn out to be THE Sienna Miller the world knows today, and together we would create what was quite possibly my most treasured image to date. Until now.

Two decades later, at 42, Sienna Miller keeps bringing the heat. Not only in the images I have been lucky to create with her, but more importantly in her incredibly impressive growing body of work which continues to surprise viewers at every turn. Immersing herself into roles, changing her accent and disguising her undeniably gorgeous face, Miller disappears into character time and again. Yet, as she discusses in Luke Crisell’s fabulous cover story, (pg. 80), she is still not counted among our most recognized and highly paid actresses. Luckily with the help of a close crew of Hollywood’s most successful women and a new perspective on life, this is all about to change.

And while we’re on the subject of fresh perspectives, let’s talk Italy. I’m sorry but summer just isn’t summer without Italia. For years I have been recharging my battery in Tuscany each June, (thanks, Jon) and I assure you, Italy is good for the soul. As Casey Brennan reports (pg. 190) il bel paese really comes alive in estate, and I implore you to nd out for yourselves. While you’re there, Cynthia Martens has got your cultural agenda all lined up for you, (pg. 26) including not-to-be-missed visits to Bologna for a lm festival and Venice to catch the Biennale.

If Italy isn’t your vibe, let our fashion stories serve as inspiration. Los Angeles, Dubai, Mexico City, and Beijing comprise the locales for this season’s latest o erings. Alternately, Alison Cohn describes a spectacular Naomi Campbell exhibit at the V&A in London (pg. 180). A bit further a eld, the eyepopping Ti any & Co. exhibit in Tokyo is a MUST for all jewelry a cionados (pg. 98).

Just as I began this note, I will end the same way, with a #girlcrush. This issue marks the beginning of what I hope is a long partnership with the esteemed cultural critic and all around cool-chick Joan Juliet Buck (pg. 94).

When I started working at GRAZIA USA two years ago, I made a list of writers I’d love to work with, and Joan Juliet Buck’s name was at the tippy-top. (Incidentally, Sienna Miller made the cut on the “dream covers” list.) After a beach read of Buck’s 2017 memoir, The Price of Illusion, I fell under her spell. What a smart and singular voice. JJB’s life has transcended fashion to become something otherworldly, and I am THRILLED to welcome her to the Grazia family.

With that, I leave you to enjoy what has turned out to be my most favorite issue yet. So, grab an Aperol spritz and tuck in.

2424

EN PLEIN AIR

Breathe: Summer is a chance to engage with music, lms and more while embracing the outdoors.
WORDS

Earlier this year, New Yorkers mourned the loss of Flaco, a tufted Eurasian eagle-owl who had become something of a local hero. He escaped through a hole in his enclosure at the Central Park Zoo (someone had cut the netting) and evaded recapture, winning hearts as he popped up around town and feasted on rats before colliding with a building on the Upper West Side in a gruesome end. Was Flaco better o at the zoo or roaming the city as a feathery aneur? Viewpoints diverged, but the quasisimultaneous arrival of an earthquake and a solar eclipse in April further jolted New Yorkers into recognizing the power of nature.

Civilization and the great outdoors need not always be in tension. Now, as the days grow longer, we’ve collected a listing of global events that will allow you to embrace the best of both worlds.

Gdynia, Poland, is a breezy shing village turned resort city on the country’s

26
UNFORGETTABLE e Summer 2024 Arts Agenda
PHOTO: CURTIS BROWN FOR THE SANTA FE OPERA
FE
301 Opera Drive Santa Fe, NM 87506-2823
2024
SANTA OPERA (67TH FESTIVAL SEASON)
June 28 - August 24,

Venice, Italy

April 20 - November 24, 2024 (Art)

August 28 - September 7, 2024 (Cinema)

VENICE BIENNALE
UNFORGETTABLE

Baltic coast, overlooking the Gulf of Gdańsk. Summer entices visitors to stroll the ample promenade and board pleasure boats, where sampling battered sh and vodka is de rigueur. Since 2003, Gdynia has also hosted one of Europe’s most prominent contemporary music shows, the Open’er Festival, with an array of celebrity rock, pop, electronic, and hip-hop artists on the roster. e 2024 edition of the festival is slated for July 3–6 from afternoon till the wee hours, featuring international heavyweights Måneskin, Dua Lipa, Foo Fighters, Sam Smith, L’Impératrice, and Amaarae, as well as local acts such as Łona x Konieczny x Krupa, which bridges hip-hip, jazz, and electronica. Come for the ballads, stay for the vistas: the Santa Fe Opera’s 67th Festival Season features 38 performances from June 28 through August 24 at its Crosby eatre, which sits atop a mountain on a former ranch and is open on three sides, shielding guests from above while a ording unobstructed views. Tickets are available for Giuseppe Verdi’s La Traviata, Gaetano Donizetti’s L’elisir d’amore, Richard Strauss’s Der Rosenkavalier and a new work specially commissioned by the opera, e Righteous, a collaboration between composer Gregory Spears and Pulitzer Prize-winning poet Tracy K. Smith.

IS THE NUOVO CINEMA PARADISO IN BOLOGNA?

Bologna, Italy, is beloved for its medieval towers, turrets, walls, and especially the ochre porticoes that wind across dozens of kilometers. e city made headlines last December when its famously leaning Garisenda tower – one half of a vertical duo built in the 12th century – was near collapse, prompting the hurried construction of protective barriers. From June 13–18, visitors can bask in Bologna’s historic charms as they take part in the annual Porticoes Festival, perhaps indulging in an aperitivo along the way.

Is the Nuovo Cinema Paradiso in Bologna? Cinephiles have rejoiced at the recent resurrection of the Cinema Modernissimo, a Liberty-style theater which rst opened in 1915 but closed in 2007. A new generation of moviegoers can now sink into claret-hued chairs and admire the peacock feathers and curlicues running along the walls and ceilings alongside the original Birra Ronzani signage. From June 22–30, the city is presenting its annual Cinema Ritrovato (“Rediscovered Cinema”) event, a chance to view classic lms in theaters such as the Cinema Modernissimo and even all’aperto in beautiful Piazza Maggiore. is year, the festival invites audiences to immerse themselves from morning to night in the lms of actress Marlene Dietrich and director-screenwriter Pietro Germi, as well as discover works by Anatole Litvak, Kozaburo Yoshimura and Gustaf Molander. e full program will include some cinematic gems

PHOTOS: MANUEL HARLAN, SABINA SARNITZ PHOTOS: COURTESY LA BIENNALE

OPEN’ER FESTIVAL

Gdynia-Kosakowo

Airport, Poland

July 3-6, 2024

on original 35- or 16-millimeter lm and numerous meticulous digital restorations.

Northeast of Bologna, the city of Venice, Truman Capote once mused, is “like eating an entire box of chocolate liqueurs in one go.” e colored glass, the Istrian stone, the sulfurous smell of the teal green lagoon, the salty air: Venice is certainly a place where the senses can get drunk, well before the e ects of an Aperol Spritz are felt. While the city’s loveliness in winter gets short shrift, we’re here to recommend two warm-weather events that make Venice a destination with a capital D. First, the 60th Art Biennale, curated by Brazilian Adriano Pedrosa, opened this year on April 20 and runs through November 24. No excuses – this is a must-see contemporary art exhibition, and the theme, Stranieri Ovunque – Foreigners Everywhere, challenges viewers, per Pedrosa, to recognize “that wherever you go and wherever you are you will always encounter foreigners,” but also “that no matter where you nd yourself, you are always truly, and deep down inside, a foreigner.”

Second, the 81st Venice Film Festival runs this year from August 28 to September 7, o ering a chance to see a high-quality selection of international lms before they reach the masses. Members of the media, fashion designers, actors, directors, producers, distributors, costume designers and publicists all descend on the barrier island of Lido di Venezia as summer draws to a close, providing an excellent opportunity for people-watching even for those without tickets to the screenings.

Avant Marrakech, tout était noir. “Before Marrakech, everything was black,” said Yves Saint Laurent. Decades before the French designer fell in love with the North African city, painter Jacques Majorelle fell in love with Morocco and made it his home. He bought a plot of land bordering a palm grove and created a garden lled with all manner of plants, from agave and banana trees to thorny cacti, splashing the adjoining Cubist villa with a vibrant

CACTUS

Musée YVES SAINT

LAURENT

Marrakech (mYSLm)

Rue Yves Saint Laurent

Marrakech 40000

Morocco

March 2 - July 7, 2024

30
UNFORGETTABLE

QAGOMA ALSO PROVIDES OPPORTUNITIES FOR QUIET

CONTEMPLATION IN ITS PERMANENT SCULPTURE COURTYARD

IRIS VAN HERPEN: SCULPTING THE SENSES

Queensland Art Gallery

- Gallery of Modern Art (QAGOMA)

Stanley Place, South Brisbane

Queensland 4101, Australia

June 29 - October 7, 2024

cobalt blue now known as “Majorelle Blue.” After the Jardin Majorelle fell into disrepair, Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé committed to its restoration in the 1980s, and today, the villa – which now houses the Pierre Bergé Museum of Berber Arts – and garden are open to visitors. rough July 7, the intrepid can follow the pricking of their thumbs to the neighboring Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech to see Cactus, an exhibition co-curated by Marc Jeanson, a botanist at Paris’ National Museum of Natural History, and Centre Pompidou president Laurent Le Bon. Guests are encouraged to consider the diversity and “extravagant architecture” of succulents and cacti in particular, which have fascinated artists such as Bernard Boutet de Monvel and Brassaï, among the many others whose works are shown.

Brisbane, Australia, boasts an impressive array of art galleries, and plenty of opportunities for al fresco entertainment. Visitors who missed the exhibition Iris van Herpen: Sculpting the Senses when it opened in Paris at the Musée des

MIKALAI VALADKEVICH. MARCO CAPPELLETTI. SØLVE SUNDSBØ
PHOTOS:

Buenos Aires, Argentina

August 21 -

September 1, 2024

Arts Decoratifs can stop by the Queensland Art Gallery of Modern Art, or QAGOMA, where it will reside from June 29 through October 7. Van Herpen, a former ballerina who grew up along the Waal River in the Netherlands, draws extensively on the natural world in her fashion creations, many of which rely on unusual materials and 3-D printing. e show presents over 100 of her haute couture pieces, juxtaposed with works of contemporary art by the likes of Philip Beasley and Cai Guo-Qiang, among others. QAGOMA also provides opportunities for quiet outdoor contemplation in its permanent Sculpture Courtyard and on the surrounding lawn, where works such as e World Turns by Michael Parekōwhai pay tribute to Aboriginal traditions.

Even the name Buenos Aires is evocative of fresh air, and from August 21 to

EVEN THE NAME BUENOS AIRES IS EVOCATIVE OF FRESH AIR

September 1, the Argentine capital is hosting its annual Tango BA Festival and World Championship, also known as the Mundial de Tango, or Tango World Cup. Tango has humble origins: It emerged along the Rio de la Plata in the late 19th century, popularized, the story goes, in brothels and slums. Today, however, it’s a great social equalizer, with people of all ages and backgrounds showing up at local milongas, or dance halls. At the Tango World Cup, competing dancers participate in a medley of improvised and choreographed performances sure to seduce, and many events held throughout the city are free. For travelers with two left feet, this is a chance to dream.

Bologna, Italy

June 22-30. 2024

33 UNFORGETTABLE
IL CINEMA RITROVATO
PHOTOS: CHRISTOPHER PILLITZ VIA GETTY IMAGES. CINETECA DI BOLOGNA / LORENZO BURLANDO.

GAME CHAN GERS

MEET THE CHANGE AGENTS WHO ARE BLAZING A NEW PATH AND INSPIRING A BETTER FUTURE BY REDEFINING WHAT IT MEANS TO BE SUCCESSFUL

34

DR. DORIS DAY

With an emphasis on cutting-edge technology and anti-aging, the renowned dermatologist shares her vision for the future of radiant, healthy skin.

To say that Dr. Doris Day is passionate about skin would be an understatement. A board-certi ed dermatologist who specializes in cosmetic and medical dermatology on Manhattan’s Upper East Side, Day, MD, FAAD, stands at the forefront of the industry, blending cuttingedge medical advancements with a personalized approach to skincare. With over two decades of experience, Day is not only a trusted practitioner but also an educator and advocate for skin health.

Despite coming from a family of doctors, Day initially chose a more traditional liberal arts curriculum, graduating from Columbia University with a degree in English, before earning a master’s in journalism and science writing at NYU, and then returning to complete her MD at Downstate Medical School in New York. After her residency ended, Day had a choice — work at an established practice under another doctor or go into business on her own. She opted for the latter. “I opened my own o ce with no patients or resources,” Day tells GRAZIA USA. “I basically went to the business school of hard knocks.” While hustling to grow her edgling practice, Day worked full-time at

NYU while lecturing around the city, which she credits for making connections and meeting new patients. “I grew my business by being present and accessible.”

Day is now one of the country’s most innovative and award-winning dermatologists and a clinical associate professor of dermatology at the New York NYU Langone Health. “My focus is longevity,” Day says. “I always tell patients, ‘I don’t want you to just look better, I want you to feel and be better, and make better life choices.’

I help patients reset the clock and rewind it by making changes that have a lasting impact.”

Day believes we have just skimmed the surface of this eld and is looking to make a greater impact with a newly created company centered around longevity and beauty. “We have more than $30 million in safety data and are in the process of developing the company now,” she shares. “I’m so thrilled to be a part of it.” Day also consults for major brands like Estee Lauder and Allegan, the creator of Botox. “I’m very fortunate to have access to the CEOs and other people at these companies.”

Beyond her work at the clinic and as a consultant, Day is a sought-after

speaker and media personality (she has hosted a show on SiriusXM for 16 years), sharing her expertise to empower others to make informed decisions about their skincare journey. “When I was starting out, cosmetics were sort of coming up, and I did clinical trials which helped me to explain my work on shows like Good Morning America and e View,” she recalls. “I also became friends with Barbara Walters, and she ended up doing a 20/20 special featuring me, which was a really memorable moment in my career.”

Day has authored four books including her latest, Rebooting the Biome; Forget the Facelift; and Beyond Beautiful, also the name of a podcast she is currently developing. “I will be the Anthony Bourdain of beauty,” she explains. “People have a real interest in beauty and what works in other cultures and countries—French and Korean beauty for example. It’s all so spiritual and personal and we plan to go to these places and see how they came up with these treatments.”

ADRIANA SOLEY LIVANOS

As the co-founder of Stray Dog Wild Gin, Soley Livanos is refining the spirits industry with a commitment to artisanal craftsmanship and sustainability.

Adriana Soley Livanos has always been a natural-born hustler. Born and raised in Spain, Soley Livanos was eager to chart her own path, leaving the comforts of home at an early age to pursue her dreams. Now, Soley Livanos is the epitome of modern entrepreneurship, serving as the cofounder and CEO of Stray Dog Wild Gin.

“I started in the hospitality industry as a way to become independent and leave home at 18 years old,” Soley Livanos tells GRAZIA USA. “I started as a runner at a restaurant in Barcelona and quickly grew into server, bartender, and bar manager positions through hard work and dedication.”

Soley Livanos not only had a drive, but she wasn’t scared to ask for what she wanted. “I always treated all the companies I worked for as my own and went above and beyond, so when I asked for a promotion, I got it.”

Moving from local brand ambassador to national sales manager for spirits brands, Soley Livanos honed her skills, drawing inspiration from every corner of the industry. Yet, it was a deeprooted connection to nature and the avors of husband Johnny’s homeland of Greece that sparked the creation of her own brand.

KIMBERLY DREW

The curator known as “Museum Mammy” is redefining accessibility and representation in the cultural sphere.

Like many in uencers who have created major followings on social media, Kimberly Drew — a.k.a.

“Museum Mammy”— has leaned into the platforms to advocate for inclusivity and diversity in the art world, and her journey has not only led to hundreds of thousands of followers but a place to share her voice.

“My career has taken a bunch of di erent forms. I would say that for me, my entrepreneurship really kicked o when I was still an undergraduate,” Drew tells GRAZIA USA. “In 2012, I started an art blog called Black Contemporary Art that I used to amplify the voices and stories of Black artists.”

From that rst foray into the world of Tumblr — which Drew started while pursuing a double major in art history and Africana studies at Smith College — she was able to penetrate the art world.

“It gave me the opportunity to begin to engage with the art world in an unconventional way,” Drew shares. “I’m very thankful for that industrious time in my career because I was working in a eld that is super exclusive. Before I realized how exclusive it was, I was able to use social media and digital technology in a way

that kept me shielded from traditional noise in my eld.”

Drew’s career evolution began there, she recalls. “I went from blogging independently to then working in institutions,” she explains. “I worked for organizations including Creative Time and the Studio Museum in Harlem.”

Drew gained widespread recognition for her work as a writer, curator, and social media in uencer. She served as the social media manager for e Metropolitan Museum of Art where she helped to reinvent and diversify the 154-year-old cultural institution. Drew is currently the associate director of editorial at Pace Gallery, where she brings her unique perspective and expertise to the forefront of the gallery’s initiatives.

Drew cites Cameroon-born curator Koyo Kouoh and elma Golden, the director and chief curator of e Studio Museum in Harlem, as major sources of inspiration. “ elma is one of the most important women in American art and global art conversations, how she guided so many of us into being the full breadth of who we are,” she says.

It was a visit to the Brooklyn Museum for the Kehinde Wiley exhibit that

stands out as particularly momentous.

“It sticks out as one of the most important art viewing experiences of my life because it was the rst time that I got to see Black faces in museums,” she remembers

While Drew maintains a nonstop schedule — when we connected, she was in Venice at the Biennale and o to Dakar for the next one — the experiences only fuel her passion and drive.

“I’m constantly taking on new things and nding inspiration,” she explains. “I really try to remain agile and free owing when I’m moving around.”

As an integral part of Pace Gallery, Drew contributes to shaping the future of contemporary art, fostering a more inclusive and equitable cultural landscape for generations to come.

“I will be opening an exhibition in collaboration with the Gordon Parks Foundation at Pace Gallery, where I work full-time,” Drew shares. “ e exhibition will be opening on July 11, and I cannot wait. I hope my journey takes me to the next city, the next art community, the next opportunity to learn, the next lunch reservation, the next dance party. I’m very open and feel very oddly optimistic.”

GAME CHANGERS
How the VP of Social Impact at Rosewood Hotel Group is championing sustainable luxury and envisioning a new chapter in hospitality.

For Mehvesh Mumtaz Ahmed, a truly memorable travel experience is about more than just staying in a hotel. For the vice president of social impact at Rosewood Hotel Group, it’s about the guests who come to stay, the employees at the properties, and giving back to the communities where the hotels are located.

“I nd inspiration in the human instinct to do good,” Ahmed tells GRAZIA USA. “It’s easy to become jaded given the many challenges the world faces, but my energy stores get replenished each time I talk to someone who wants to make a di erence, no matter how big or small.”

Since starting with the renowned hospitality brand, Ahmed has worked on helping to make a di erence. At the core of Rosewood’s brand identity, sustainability and social impact are not just initiatives but fundamental elements of each property’s experience. From eco-conscious culinary o erings and educational guest programming to sustainable design and celebrating local culture, every detail is meticulously crafted to embody commitment to both the planet (its Rosewood Sustains program) and its people (Rosewood Empowers).

Ahmed also helped launch the new

Rosewood Impacts Trailblazers program, which encompasses six of the hotels in the portfolio. ( ere are 44 Rosewood Hotels in 20 countries.) ese trailblazers include Rosewood Phuket, Rosewood Baha Mar, Rosewood São Paulo, Rosewood Phnom Penh, Rosewood Mayakoba, and Rosewood Hong Kong, with each committed to achieving at least one ambitious “stretch goal” by 2025. ese goals focus on transformative sustainability practices like achieving carbon neutrality, the elimination of single-use plastics, and a 90 percent waste diversion rate. Additionally, they aim to locally source 70 percent of produce and protein, develop signi cant long-term community partnerships, and transform at least one hotel restaurant into a business driven by purpose.

“My ultimate goal is to create a reality where the ideas of luxury and sustainability are not mutually exclusive but actually synonymous—and I hope Rosewood will show how,” Ahmed admits. “We want to ensure that every sustainable, socially responsible choice we make does not compromise on the luxury quality of an experience, but rather elevates it and makes it unique.” Ahmed adds that “it’s incredible to see

the initiatives that have come to life through the tenacity and passion of our team. Take BluHouse at Rosewood Hong Kong, the group’s rst restaurant wholly informed by the criteria of a ‘business with purpose,’ which seeks out talent from the most underserved and overlooked communities in Hong Kong. It also sets aside a portion of revenue towards further supporting those in need in the neighborhood.”

Ahmed also cites Rosewood Mayakoba as an inspiration for its work in creating a local community school in 2017:

“Today, the school welcomes over 450 students, and Rosewood Mayakoba’s guests and sta continue to support with tuition and supplies.”

Another major driving force for these sustainable changes is the guests. “One of the most encouraging trends we’re seeing in hospitality is the desire and demand from travelers for meaningful experiences that allow them to authentically engage with the places and communities that they are visiting,” Ahmed says. “Travel is no longer just about staying in the most beautiful room or indulging in a vecourse meal. It’s now about discovering the heart and soul of a place through experiences designed to celebrate and preserve it. It’s exciting to see.”

38
GAME CHANGERS
MEHVESH MUMTAZ

SABRINA DHOWRE ELBA

A visionary brand founder is reshaping the wellness industry with inclusivity, sustainability, and a commitment to diverse, ethical beauty practices.

In a wellness industry saturated with one-size- ts-all solutions, Sabrina Dhowre Elba’s S’Able Labs emerges as a revolutionary force. Driven by values of inclusivity, sustainability, and empowerment, Elba’s brand is not just changing the way we think about well-being and skincare but is actively shaping a more accepting and diverse beauty landscape.

A multi-talented gure known for her work as a model, actress, and humanitarian, Elba has expanded her portfolio into the realm of entrepreneurship with the launch of S’Able Labs (her rst initial and last name spelled backward, by the way), which was born out of Elba’s frustrations with the industry’s narrow scope and her own experiences that underscored a signi cant gap in the market. “My journey into entrepreneurship started four years ago when I found myself frustrated with the beauty industry and wanting to see change in how skincare brands catered to melanin-rich skin,” Elba explains. Despite her initial lack of business experience, her clear vision and resilience have seen her evolve into a con dent businesswoman ready to make bold moves.

Elba’s inspiration springs from

her surroundings, particularly her relationships with family, friends, and peers, who are her “biggest inspiration.” Her entrepreneurial journey has been signi cantly shaped by mentors like her husband, Idris Elba, and her Chief Operating O cer, Emma Bates, who have both provided invaluable guidance and support. “Idris has been an amazing mentor for me. He made me believe I could start on this path. He’s a massive dreamer and has shown me that anything can happen as long as you’re willing to put the work in,” she shares.

e transition from idea to execution was a monumental step that involved assembling a team aligned with her vision. is team has been pivotal in bringing S’Able Labs to life, demonstrating the power of collective e ort in transforming a personal dream into reality. A particularly memorable moment for Elba was the brand’s launch at British beauty retailer Space NK, an achievement that stands out as a signi cant milestone. “I used to walk over to my local store before starting the brand and dream of being stocked on the shelves. To see it actualized was really ful lling,” she recalls. Looking forward, Elba is enthusiastic about expanding S’Able Labs into

new markets, especially in Africa. is expansion aims not just to grow the business but also to nurture a global community committed to ethical beauty practices. e brand sources its “amazing A-beauty ingredients” responsibly from Africa, highlighting its commitment to sustainability and ethical sourcing.

S’Able Labs sets itself apart through its commitment to inclusivity. e brand designs products for all skin types and tones, ensuring that everyone can nd something suitable. e products are crafted using clean, cruelty-free ingredients, and the packaging is designed to minimize environmental impact.

Elba’s vision for S’Able Labs extends beyond beauty products. She is advocating for a lifestyle movement that embraces authentic selfexpression, con dence, and grace.

As S’Able Labs continues to grow, it is clear that Elba’s entrepreneurial journey is about inspiring change and making a lasting impact, inviting everyone to join in a transformative journey towards more radiant skin and comprehensive self-love.

MONIQUE RODRIGUEZ

The

Mielle Organics founder transformed haircare with a commitment to natural ingredients and inclusivity.

Monique Rodriguez always had a passion for beauty, but she didn’t start out with any intention of becoming a brand founder. “I had always wanted to work in the beauty industry, but my mother pushed me towards a more stable career, so I became a nurse,” Rodriguez tells GRAZIA USA. “I worked as a nurse for eight years but never felt ful lled.”

After a devastating personal loss, Rodriguez turned to social media to talk about her true passion: haircare. “What started as an experiment in my kitchen to heal my damaged hair quickly became the lightbulb moment to create Mielle Organics,” Rodriguez recalls. “My audience kept asking if they could buy my homemade mixtures.”

e inspiration was drawn from Rodriguez’s own hair care journey — and the blind spots she saw in the industry. “When I was growing up, I felt that the beauty space did not have a lot of representation of diversity,” she explains. “Everything showed a very European, straight-haired look. ere was rarely anything for black women and our community that showed how to care for and appreciate our natural curls.”

at void in the market, says Rodriguez,

inspired her “to provide empowerment to help women feel good about themselves and be con dent while rocking their natural curls.” Rodriguez and her husband, Melvin, launched Mielle Organics in 2014 with one core product: Almond Mint Oil. “I thought we had enough product for six months, but we ended up selling like crazy on Day One, and went through our entire inventory,” says Rodriguez. One of the biggest challenges Rodriguez faced when founding Mielle Organics was a lack of resources. “We didn’t have mentors or capital, which is necessary to grow and scale a business,” says Rodriguez. But they managed to get it done and break through barriers. “One of our biggest wins was when we signed with Sally Beauty after just one year in business, which almost never happens, least of all for a small Blackowned business. We launched in 95 test stores, and every product sold out.” Since launching a decade ago, Rodriguez built Mielle Organics — made with natural ingredients known for their revitalizing properties — into a true beauty powerhouse and one of the fastest-growing Black-founded, women-led hair care companies in the United States. “I am so proud of what we have accomplished in 10

years,” says Rodriguez. “Mielle is now distributed in over 85 countries and 100,000 retail locations across the globe, and just last year in 2023, we were acquired by Procter & Gamble with the largest acquisition ever for a Black female beauty founder, in which I will continue to serve as CEO of the company.”

Beyond beauty, Rodriguez’s impact extends to community empowerment and education, as Mielle Organics strives to inspire individuals to embrace their natural selves with con dence.

“As Mielle celebrates its 10th anniversary, we’ve been re ecting on where we have been and where we want to continue to grow,” says Rodriguez. “We’re focused on innovation and new product o erings, expanding production and access and increasing community-driven work through the Mielle Cares nonpro t that will provide resources and support to advance education and economic opportunities in Black and Brown communities. I also see us expanding into new categories – not just on hair, but also into skincare, and continue having the foresight to anticipate the needs of our consumers to remain ahead of the curve, innovative, and a solution-oriented brand.”

ELYSE OLEKSAK

Her innovative take on a classic breakfast staple captivated taste buds and transformed the bagel industry.

Bantam Bagel co-founder Elyse Oleksak calls the idea for the company “ e Dream.” It did, after all, come to her husband and business partner, Nick, in the middle of the night. According to Oleksak from an excerpt in her memoir A Shark Ate My Bagel: How We Built Bantam Bagels: He “woke up in the middle of the night and wrote these two ideas in [his] phone: Tater Tot Truck. All di erent avors of Tater Tots, all di erent kinds of sauces.”

While she hated that idea and told him so, it led to his next idea: “Mini bagels stu ed with cream cheese. Sort of like doughnut holes, but bagels,” Oleksak recalls him nonchalantly o ering up as an alternative. She loved it, and the pair tasked themselves with creating and perfecting the recipe while maintaining their demanding Wall Street careers. Oleksak recalls that it took 71 tries to get it right before the company o cially launched in 2013 and quickly gained traction, earning widespread acclaim for its innovative approach to breakfast.

A pitch on Shark Tank led to the brand’s big break. “Lori Greiner, our partner from ABC’s Shark Tank, was an incredible mentor to us,” Oleksak explains. “She guided us by teaching

us how to approach business as a human being rst. She was willing to o er advice without ego, allowing us to make our own decisions.”

Major ingredients in Oleksak’s success was her attention to detail and ability to map out di erent scenarios. “I’m a planner,” she says. “I nd safety and calm in organization and planning. at said, in my business with my husband, I was always the planner, breaking down each and every microstep, day-by-day, hour-by-hour in order to get where we needed to go. We used to joke that he’d wake up with sticky notes pasted to his face — put there by me — to begin his day.”

Oleksek’s commitment to quality and innovation propelled Bantam Bagels to nationwide success, earning accolades from both customers and industry insiders alike along with lucrative deals with major companies including Starbucks and QVC; a storefront on Bleecker Street in New York City o ered the brand a brickand-mortar home and they were featured everywhere from e Today Show and Jimmy Fallon to being one of Oprah’s Favorite ings. “ ose moments were so incredible because we were two hard working nobody’s who were just chasing a dream, it

showed us the humanity behind each and every person in this world. Humanity and connection became the fuel that kept us running despite a cyclone of ups and downs in the journey of building Bantam Bagels.”

Oleksak admits that having built the successful brand gave her a level of control over the future that was thrilling. “I was living in a state of constant jubilation, bursting with adrenaline,” she says. “Something to dream about, to feel great about, to aspire to, and to achieve.

e brand was sold in 2018 for $34 million to T. Marzetti Co. (it was ultimately shuttered in 2022 due to pandemic pressures), and Oleksak focused on raising her children. But the entrepreneurial spirit is still there.

“I’m hoping to get back involved in small business, to give back to other companies some of the lessons that I learned along the way,” she says.

“I’m currently consulting with several growth companies and am happy to get involved in more.”

GAME CHANGERS

ALL INCLUSIVE

For super-stylist Guido Palau, hair is all about expressing your truest self – and everyone is invited

PHOTOGRAPHY WILLY LUKAITIS HAIR & CREATIVE DIRECTION

GUIDO PALAU USING ZARA HAIR WORDS CASSIE STEER

We are in the midst of an ideological and aesthetic revolution spearheaded by our hair. Chances are, you just don’t know it. Turning up to your Zoom meeting with damp hair in a messy bun? You are overturning rules of convention, one untended tendril at a time. “The idea of what beauty is is gradually being eroded,” says stylist Guido Palau, who should know, since he’s instrumental in changing the face (or hair) of fashion. “There was a time where, if you didn’t have the perfect set or Farrah Fawcett ick, you were on the fringes of what was deemed acceptable. But those chains of conformity are breaking down; beauty is much more uid.”

If there was one lesson to be learned from lockdown (aside from how to make banana bread), it was that there is something liberating about letting our hair take on the character it innately wants to be. That said, it’s not all about ‘natural’ hair either, says Palau. “The biggest message to come with convesations with women (and men) over the years is that they want to feel their most con dent selves in their truest way.” Sculptural statements sit happily alongside a straight-fromthe-shower ’do in an ideological manifestation of what you might see on the New York subway or London bus –the street having always been a font of

inspiration for Palau.

It’s also why his collaboration with Zara in the brand’s rst foray into the hair arena makes sense; democratizing the means to self-expression and making the hair of your dreams accessible to all. “It’s not about trends or emulating perfection, it’s about helping you to create whatever it is that makes you feel beautiful,” says Palau. “The styles I’ve created here are extreme and are not meant to be taken literally, but they’re grounded in what I see on the street; sometimes you need to push yourself out of your comfort zone to nd your true hair self.” So, come as you are (or who you want to be).

BEAUTY
Alayna Neaum (she/her) Zara top

“Everyone wants dream hair once in a while and that doesn’t have to be dictated by gender,” says Palau. “Gender uidity has always been very interesting to me and the ambiguity of people is very appealing.”

44 BEAUTY
Ethan Charalambides (he/him) Intimissimi top

“We often admire people who dare to look di erent and yet we don’t always apply it to ourselves. You don’t have to be con dent to exude con dence,” says Palau. “Hair is the perfect conduit to assume a more extreme persona.”

Lily Epstein (they/he) Amazon Fashion full bodysuit

“Mixing natural hair with slices of blue feels a little anime,” says Palau. “It’s this idea of having fun with your hair by adding colour – even temporarily using clip-ins or playing with a more extreme shape.”

JiaYun Xie (she/her) Zara bodysuit

“I see girls on the street using hair accessories like these gold braid rings,” says Palau. “I’ve just pushed it here to make a bolder statement. It goes to show that hair can be used as a medium of nature, culture and sculpture.”

47 BEAUTY
Anyerka Infante (she/her) Skims bodysuit

GREATS GREATS

Sunshine, daydreams! Gwen Flamberg expounds on the best new beauty essentials to add to your routine for the sexiest season of all

The
RUISEÑOR MAKE UP GUSTAVO BORTOLOTTI USING GUCCI BEAUTY HAIR ERNESTO VARGAS STYLE DIRECTION ANNIE LASK
PHOTOGRAPHY SANTIAGO

WELL SCULPTED

A veritable facial in a bottle, SS2 Snatching Sauce from A-list facialist

The Beauty Sandwich (a.k.a. Iván Pol) contains a cocktail of oils including Kalahari melon, hemp, and jasmine to tighten while reducing redness and imparting a next-level glow. A daily dab also helps brighten tired skin — the perfect panacea to partying on the longest day of the year and beyond. ($250, thebeautysandwich.com)

BEAUTY
LET THE SPIRIT OF THE SEASON MOVE YOU

FRINGE BENEFITS

No matter how high the mercury soars, YSL Lash Clash Extreme Waterproof Mascara leaves lashes inky black and out-to-there through sweat, saltwater, and even tears, with zero smudges — it’s the ideal makeup item to bring to every summer soirée, from pool parties to your ex’s wedding. ($32, yslbeautyus.com)

PRODIGAL SUNSCREEN

Channel sexy, lazy days lounging on the French Riviera of the ‘60s à la Brigitte Bardot with a coat of Vacation Orange Gelée SPF 30 Sunscreen Gel. The luxefeeling balm-to-oil formula is packed with shea butter and coconut oil to impart an epic sheen, while maracuja strengthens the skin barrier. ($23, nordstrom.com)

WAVES OF GLORY

On the hottest days, ditch the blow dryer and let your hair air dry instead— just run through a dollop of The Finishing Gel from Crown A air, layering for added hold on longer, heavier locks. A unique, whisper-light, water-based gel-cream, the potion encourages hair to dry into a look with enviable modelo -duty texture. ($42, crowna air.com)

SOLID GOLD

Getting a wet-look ‘do has never been easier — or better for the environment — thanks to an innovative new clean line by editorial hair guru James Pecis. Housed in a recyclable 100 percent paper tub, Blu & Green Solid Oil deeply nourishes hair while creating exible styles and a little goes a long way! Start by rubbing a pea-sized drop between palms before anointing strands. ($35, bluandgreen.com)

High summer is precisely the time to lean in to coral as your go-to lip hue and Guerlain’s KissKiss Bee Glow Oil in Peach takes it a step further with coloradjusting pigments that work with your pH to create a customized (read: superattering) shade. Plus, plumping royal jelly and a glass-like shine mega-magnify the look of lips. ($40, sephora.com)

TREASURE CHEST

With your décolleté on full display in plunge tops and sundresses, it’s high time to treat the skin below the chin with a powerful skin savior. Shani Darden Body Reform Treatment Serum with 2% Granactive Retinoid (created by one of Hollywood’s top aestheticians) smooths out crepey patches and softens ne lines near the cleavage. Bonus: Vitamin C in the formula also helps fade freckles and dark spots. ($72, sephora.com)

51

GARDEN PARTY

A sure re way to get invited back to that beach house on Further Lane: a hostess gift that’s beyond. Trudon’s Versailles Candle is redolent of a dreamy bouquet of peonies, tuberose, honeysuckle and blue iris … but even if they don’t favor owers, the elegant azure vessel inspired by the color of the sky at France’s famed palace will seal the deal. ($140, trudon.com)

THE EYES HAVE IT

Whether the season spells tons of travel and last-minute weekend getaways or just a plethora of late-night events, a dab of Summer Fridays’ Overnight Jet Lag Eye Serum is just the thing to keep ne lines at bay (thanks to a gentle retinol blend suited to delicate skin) and send under-eye bags packing. ($46, sephora.com)

Amp up the hydration factor for your lips by layering Chanel Hydra Beauty Micro Serum Lévres under lipstick. The sheer, water-like texture has hyaluronic acid to attract moisture and white camellia extract to add a plumpness to lips while deeply nourishing skin and softening the look of ne lines. ($64, chanel.com)

SWEET DREAM

BODY SHOT

Smooth move: Say so long to body breakouts and back-of-the-arm bumps with a twice daily slathering of Iota Supercloud Body Serum+ containing a powerhouse trio of gently re-texturizing mandelic, maltobionic, and lactic acids. The airy serum also has niacinamide to brighten and copper peptides to boost rmness and elasticity. ($39, iotabody. com)

Chic spritz! Acne Studios, the Stockholm-born ready-to-wear brand beloved by cool kids on both sides of the Atlantic, just collaborated with fragrance king Frederic Malle to create a fragrance lush with peach and powdery vanilla notes that’s like a whi of clean laundry in a fashion paradise. ($295, nordstrom.com)

GOLDEN SWAN

Get an e ortless rich-girl glow via a sweep of Dundas Beauty’s Bronzer Anonymous across high points on the face including cheekbones, temples and the bridge of the nose as well as down the neck and just under collarbones. Choose from ve matte shades to add hyper-natural enhancement or a highlighter with gilded shimmer. ($32, revolve.com)

52 BEAUTY

BRIGHT IDEA

Like a ray of sunshine sparking instant good vibes, the sandalwood and amberrich scent of Louis Vuitton Lovers Eau de Parfum inspires wearers to see the light and feel strong — and get happy. No wonder it’s the brainchild of Men’s Creative Director Pharrell Williams. ($320, louisvuitton.com)

BEAUTY
BECAUSE SUMMER IS FOR FALLING IN
LOVE
Sportmax top

Softer than red and more vibrant than nudes, pink adds a pop of color that’s at once feminine and unabashedly powerful. And there are myriad ways to wear it.

“When people think pink, they tend to think girly, Barbie pink, which can be bright and pretty but there are various shades that can look more natural and delicate,” says makeup artist Nick Barose, who works with Lupita Nyong’o and Lily Gladstone. Then there’s magenta and fuchsia, which lean more purple, and look “deeper and more sophisticated,” he adds. Since these hues blend warm

THINK PINK

Sweet like candy: From blush to magenta, this unexpected neutral suits every skin tone

PHOTOGRAPHS LULU MCARDLE

MAKE UP JESSE WALKER USING KIKO MILANO

BEAUTY DIRECTION CASSIE STEER

STYLE DIRECTION GAVI WEISS

WORDS GWEN FLAMBERG

and cool undertones, they truly atter every complexion. File candy pink in this category, too; seen here in a sumptuous satin texture.

As a general rule, the darker or brighter the lip shade, the more matte it should be to keep the look grown-up and chic. Precision is key here. Line lips before application, feathering out the edges to anchor color.

To dip your toe in the trend, consider a sheer gloss formula with a hint of shimmer or a stain that leaves lips softly kissed in velvety pigment. And why stop at lips? Amp up

the e ect with strategically placed blush. “A rosy ush blended high on cheeks adds drama,” says Barose. Choose a lighter-hued liquid or balm that marries lip color and the look instantly turns “ethereal, angelic,” he advises. Case in point: Elle Fanning at this year’s Met Gala. A coordinating eye color, swept across lids to above creases will do, too, especially when paired with dewy skin.

Whatever your pleasure, wear it with con dence — there are few shades that spark joy (for the wearer and the beholder) quite like pink. Just ask Barbie!

55
PHOTO: GETTY IMAGES
57 BEAUTY

SHADY

BRUNELLO CUCINELLI SUNGLASSES, $948, SHOP.BRUNELLOCUCINELLI.COM.

These sunglasses are the perfect blend of a modern aesthetic with vintage-inspired elements. Brunello Cucinelli is known for its exceptional craftsmanship, and these sunglasses re ect its commitment to exceptional design. The attention to detail is meticulous, featuring metal embellishments on the temples and silicone-coated metal nose pads, each adorned with the signature BC initials. The use of premium materials and an elegant metal core within the temples exemplify modern luxury. This model comes in sophisticated midnight gray with burgundy hues, as well as sunrise lenses set against transparent brown temples and complemented by ice-gray lenses.

is
10 most wanted
1/ FEELING
season’s top

LITTLE BLACK BIKINI

L’AGENCE BIKINI TOP, $125, BIKINI BOTTOMS, $110, LAGENCE.COM. Finding the perfect bikini can be a challenging quest, given the myriad of styles and ts available. However, L’Agence’s Annabelle bikini top and Jean bikini bottoms make the decision easy. The Annabelle top rede nes the classic triangle style by incorporating hidden underwire for added support. The Jean bottoms sit comfortably at the hips and provide full coverage. This design ensures that you won’t have to worry about adjusting tiny, unreliable ties. What sets this bikini apart is its fabulous gold chain print, which gives it a luxe vintage feel. Its glam design calls for some glam accessories, throw on matching gold jewelry, elegant sandals, and a owing sarong.

59
2/

DONNA KARAN NEW YORK FRAGRANCE, $150, DONNAKARAN.COM.

Celebrating nearly four decades of epitomizing the quintessential New York lifestyle, Donna Karan New York has launched its rst fragrance line. This collection, featuring four distinct eau de parfums, embodies the brand’s enduring legacy of sophistication and e ortless style. Crafted with precision, each scent stands out uniquely yet harmonizes beautifully with the others, capturing the dynamic spirit of womanhood. The design of the fragrance bottle resonates with the luxurious feel of cashmere against the skin. Its elegant, owing silhouette mimics the movement of fabric, topped with a nature-inspired, magnetic gold cap that adds a touch of organic luxury.

HOT LIST
3/ SUMMER
SCENT

SAFE TRAVELS

RIMOWA ORIGINAL VANITY CASE, $1,940, RIMOWA.COM.

Nobody does travel essentials quite like Rimowa, and the Vanity Case from the Specialty collection is a testament to that. This piece, designed to become a treasured item in your travel gear, is perfect for holding all your beauty and cosmetic essentials. The case is crafted from anodized grooved aluminum, mirroring the iconic design of Rimowa’s suitcases. It features a water-repellent lining and a large compartment, along with ve bottle holders, ensuring your liquids are securely organized. Additionally, it includes a removable aluminum and plexiglass tray, a large zipped pocket, and a at pouch on the top for extra storage. For added convenience, there’s a premium leather-covered mirror, TSA-approved locks for security, and a travel strap that makes it easy to attach to larger luggage pieces. With its blend of style, durability, and functionality, the Rimowa Vanity Case is an indispensable companion for your summer travels.

61
4

5MULTI-PURPOSE MAKEUP

DOLCE & GABBANA BEAUTY EYE DARE YOU! PALETTE, $89, DOLCEGABBANA.COM

This summer, the only palette you’ll need is Dolce & Gabbana Beauty’s Eye Dare You! Multi- nish Eyes & Cheeks Palette. It features 12 versatile shades, from essential neutrals to vibrant hues, in nishes that include shimmers, glitters, and mattes. More than just eyeshadows, certain colors double as base shades, gel liners, highlighters, and blushes. The palette boasts cutting-edge formulas such as ultra-performing mattes, metallic foil wet powders, biodegradable glitters, re ective 3D pigments, and a unique 2-in-1 formula that doubles as both eyeshadow and liner. The chic packaging of the Eye Dare You! palette, inspired by the DG Logo Handbag, captures the essence of the catwalk with its sleek black and gold monogrammed case. Priced at $89, it’s a practical addition to any travel bag, equipped with a detachable chain, mirror, and double-ended brush applicator. Its versatile range of colors and innovative formulas make it perfect for creating diverse looks on the go, ensuring you’re ready for any summer adventure. Say goodbye to over owing makeup bags—this multi-purpose palette has you covered.

62

PRADA GALLERIA BAG, $8,500, PRADA.COM. Since its debut in 2007, the Prada Galleria bag has achieved iconic status. Like many of Prada’s classic pieces, the Galleria is continuously reinvented, a testament to the brand’s endless creativity and visionary approach. The 2024 iteration represents a signi cant transformation. It is crafted from supple calfskin and lined with soft nappa leather, making it both luxurious and practical. The most exciting feature of the redesigned Galleria is its whimsical embellishments. It boasts three-dimensional oral designs ranging from tightly coiled rosebuds to expansive anemones, making it the perfect accessory for spring. Each ower is meticulously handcrafted, one by one, highlighting Prada’s dedication to unparalleled quality.

6/ IN BLOOM

THE PERFECT STRAPPY SANDAL

FENDI SANDALS, $930, FENDI.COM.

What’s summer without the perfect strappy sandal? The Fendi FFold pair hits all the right notes. These sandals feature a sleek two-inch heel that o ers just the right amount of lift without compromising on comfort. The re ned square toe and delicate strappy design, crafted from premium leather, are the epitome of chic. The standout feature of these sandals is undoubtedly the iconic metal FF logo detail, which adds a touch of glamor. This emblem not only represents Fendi’s heritage of craftsmanship but also transforms the sandals into a statement piece. The versatility of the FFold sandals is unmatched. Pair them with a owing linen skirt and a simple T-shirt for a casual yet chic daytime look, or opt for a sophisticated cocktail dress to elevate your ensemble for more formal occasions. The comfort and style of these sandals make them an ideal choice for long summer days followed by nights of celebration.

HOT LIST 7

CLOCK

OMEGA SPEEDMASTER 38MM, $17,400, OMEGAWATCHES.COM.

Omega has expanded its iconic Speedmaster 38 mm collection. First introduced in 2017, the Speedmaster 38mm o ered a luxurious take on the classic 42mm Moonwatch, tailored for those who prefer a smaller size. This collection, while maintaining the distinctive look and heritage of Omega’s most famous timepiece, takes it up a to a dazzling degree. This model features a polished stainless steel case, highlighted by a 52 diamond-set bezel and a crown with a standout diamond. The green PVD dial is simple yet striking, with horizontal oval subdials, a vertical date window at six o’clock, and luminescent rhodium-plated hands for easy reading in low light. The watch is completed with a green alligator strap and a secure stainless-steel buckle. It’s powered by the reliable OMEGA Co-Axial Calibre 3330, ensuring precision. The signature Seahorse medallion on the caseback serves as a tribute to the brand’s rich legacy. 8/

ON THE

HIGH FASHION MEETS HOME

LOUIS VUITTON PORCELAIN VASE NOÉ BB, $2,390, 866-VUITTON.

Louis Vuitton takes its renowned craftsmanship to the next level with this exquisite porcelain vase. Expertly crafted to mirror the dimensions of the iconic Noé BB handbag, this vase showcases the artistry of the House. Its polished, hard surface masterfully replicates the soft folds typically seen in leather and canvas, while the vase is adorned with an embossed Monogram pattern throughout, enhancing its visual appeal and making it a striking homage to its fashion counterpart. This piece is perfect for bringing a touch of high fashion into your home—just add fresh blooms to complete the luxurious display.

9/

10ANICON, REINVENTED

HERMÈS COLLIER DE CHIEN 24 BRACELET, $910, HERMES.COM.

The Hermès Collier de Chien (CDC) bracelet is steeped in rich history. In 1923, Hermès designed a leather dog collar with distinctive studded hardware for a client’s pet. By 1927, the design had captured the imagination of another customer, who requested it be transformed into a belt. This led to the creation of the CDC bracelet in 1940, featuring the same celebrated hardware. Today, the CDC collection, including the bracelet, stands as one of Hermes’ most iconic o erings. This summer, consider the latest iteration: The Collier de Chien 24 bracelet. As the name suggests, it’s a re ned reinterpretation of the original, available in vibrant colors like “Rose Shocking.” This piece is not just an accessory; it’s an investment in timeless style.

67 HOT LIST

PHOTOGRAPHY VLADIMIR MARTÍ

CREATIVE DIRECTION MARNE SCHWARTZ

STYLING LAURA JANE

IN THE GARDEN OF EDEN, THERE ARE NO RULES.
FASHION
loveonly
69 Loewe dress, loewe.com; Chanel bracelet, (800) 550-0005
70 FASHION
valentino.com.
Valentino dress,
FASHION
Loro Piana, sweater, trousers, sandals, loropiana.com.

Erdem bralette, skirt, erdem.com.

FASHION

IN MY SECRET GARDEN, I’M LOOKING FOR THE PERFECT FLOWER WAITING FOR MY FINEST HOUR IN MY SECRET GARDEN, I STILL BELIEVE AFTER ALL I STILL BELIEVE AND I FALL

74 FASHION
Dior bracelet, dior.com; Loewe shoes, loewe.com; Stylist’s own skirt.

Jimmy Choo X Jean Paul Gaultier boots, jimmychoo. com; Van Cleef & Arpels watch, vancleefarpels.com.

IN MY SECRET GARDEN, THERE’S A PETAL THAT ISN’T TORN A HEART THAT WILL NOT HARDEN A PLACE THAT I CAN BE BORN IN MY SECRET GARDEN A ROSE WITHOUT A THORN A LOVER WITHOUT SCOR

Zimmermann dress, zimmermann.com; Van Cleef & Arpels earrings, vancleefarpels.com.

79
FASHION
Clockwise from left: Cartier Square Trinity Medium Ring in White Gold, Rose Gold, and Yellow Gold; Trinity Extra Large Ring in White Gold, Rose Gold and Yellow Gold; Square Trinity Bracelet in White Gold, Yellow Gold and Rose Gold; Trinity Bracelet in White Gold, Yellow Gold and Rose Gold, cartier.com.

NEW HORI ZONS

With a new baby, a role in Kevin Costner’s new epic, and a new life in London, Sienna Miller is— nally—living life very much at her own pace. Which isn’t to say she’s slowing down.

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WORDS LUKE CRISELL PHOTOGRAPHY JEM MITCHELL STYLING J. ERRICO
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SSienna Miller’s front room is the kind of place you could happily while away two hours without realizing any time has passed at all. is morning, the little light that this pale London day has to o er seeps through a large bay window, onto a grand piano. Paintings—the kind collected by someone who seeks out the art that moves them, rather than what an interior designer tells them to buy—are hung thoughtfully on the walls. Two oversize, overstu ed mossgreen couches, adorned with colorful cushions, frame a large metal-andglass co ee table, stacked high with books; a pale rug sits on top of wide, worn oorboards. “ ere’s pee all over it, look,” says Miller, laughing and pointing out

reaching down and lifting his daughter aloft, chair and all. e door closes softly, and Miller tucks her legs up underneath her. She’s wearing white jeans and a cozy Argent sweater in camel cashmere, her hands cupped around a mug of tea. “Well, well,” she says. “It’s been a while since we did this, hasn’t it?”

e rst time I interviewed Miller, in 2006, she was 23. Paparazzi attention was so rampant that the hotel where we met had to call in extra security so she could leave safely. e media obsession showed no sign of abating over the subsequent decade, over which we met a few more times. So it’s all the more gratifying to encounter this halcyon version of Sienna Miller, as disarmingly forthright as always.

“I don’t think I’ve ever been this happy and this settled at any point in my life,” she says. “I haven’t done any interviews recently. Having this baby has been the greatest gift

for a drink, and when she eventually agreed, she took her friend Emily Blunt along with her for support. “But she dropped me like a proud parent,” Miller recalls with a laugh. “She said ‘You don’t need me.’ She could feel the sparks.” Miller smiles. “I think whatever a partnership is, he’s exactly the right medicine for my soul, and vice versa.” ey moved into this rental house in 2023. (She also has a cottage in the countryside, about an hour outside the city.) For Miller, who was born in New York and owned a house in the West Village but grew up in England, the move home was a long time coming. “I think everyone should live in New York at some point in their life,” she says. “But I’m thrilled to be home and out of that chaos.

“It felt like the magic, what I fell in love with, had gone,” she says, breaking o a piece of one of the cookies on the table. “New York was like a bad boyfriend I couldn’t keep away

and the neighborhood, nestled between Holland Park and Kensington Gardens in West London, would be a storybook place to grow up. (J.M. Barrie’s Peter Pan ew out of a window in Kensington Gardens to begin his journey to Neverland.)

Miller also has a robust support system in London. Her mother and older sister, Savannah, are here, as is her best friend since primary school, Tori Cook, who has been her publicist from the beginning. Marlowe’s dad, the actor Tom Sturridge, also lives in London, and they both see him regularly. “We’re this funny little blended family,” Miller says. “And now he’s with Alexa Chung, who is a good friend of mine already. And it’s kind of my dream, the way it’s evolved. Everybody loves each other!”

Despite this, she’s not sure London is her forever home. “I’m not good at committing to anything forever,” she says. “I love the idea of a stint in Paris

“I THINK WHATEVER A PARTNERSHIP IS, HE’S EXACTLY THE RIGHT MEDICINE FOR MY SOUL, AND VICE VERSA.”

a constellation of yellow stains. One of the culprits, Walter, a wire-haired dachshund, peers up from under a heavy fringe. “He’ll try and hump you. Just wait and see.” Next to Walter is Miller’s ve-month-old daughter, bouncing contentedly in a plastic baby jumper.

“Shall I take her?” asks Oli Green, Miller’s partner,

in the entire world. I really wanted another child, but I didn’t know I would have one. And she’s just the perfect thing. It’s daunting to imagine having a child, but on their deathbed, very few people will say ‘I regret doing that.’”

Miller met Green, an actor and model, in 2021 in New York. Green pestered her for a while to go

from. It can be the most romantic and loving… but it can be so moody. Coming back, being able to let my dogs o the lead and not get yelled at—these are the little things that, in your 40s, you kind of appreciate. And in terms of quality of life, it just feels easier, especially with kids.” Miller’s other daughter, Marlowe, 11, goes to school nearby

or Rome. I have to keep those options open, or I get itchy feet.” ere’s a knock on the door, and Green appears with the baby. “I think she wants you,” he says, laying her down on the couch next to Miller. She doesn’t make a sound. “She’s just happy to be here,” Miller says, looking into her eyes. “Aren’t you, peanut?”

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R13 shirt, jeans, r13.com; Cartier Grain de Café necklace, 18k white gold, 18k yellow gold, diamonds, Cartier Grain de Café ring, 18k white gold, 18k yellow gold, diamonds, Cartier Grain de Café, 18k white gold, 18k yellow gold, diamonds, cartier.com. Gucci sweater, shorts, socks, gucci.com; Cartier Trinity earrings, 18k rose gold, 18k white gold, 18k yellow gold, Trinity ring, 18k rose gold, 18k white gold, 18k yellow gold, cartier.com.
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Chung, another of the caryatids of Indie Sleaze, came into the spotlight at a similar time to Miller and for similarly obtuse reasons. “I look back on the chaos of what my life was and I think I’ve been someone that lived very

“NEW

as if it’s a di erent person. In many ways, it doesn’t feel like I went through that experience—maybe I’ve just disassociated from it, for a number of reasons. But also,” she pauses for a moment. “I had a huge amount of fun.” She looks

ple want to actually see. I’ve done so many tiny lms that you pour your heart and soul into. It’s such a painful battle without the support of the studio or money. I’m ready to be in things that people actually see—and to have a little bit

says. It’s a line so good, so Kevin Costner, it’s hard to believe. “It’s perfect, isn’t it? He sort of thinks in that vernacular. He’s got this childlike, infectious enthusiasm and a genuine humility. Which is astounding, because he’s Kevin Costner.

YORK WAS LIKE A BAD BOYFRIEND I COULDN’T KEEP AWAY FROM.”

much from experience to experience and not much premeditation,” Miller says, her ngers gently tracing the contours of her daughter’s tiny face. “I had incredible adventures and lots of exciting times, but also real knocks and swingsI thought it was just me, being a leaf in the wind, wherever it blew.”

As Miller’s fame grew, the tabloid attention increased, culminating in her suing e News of the World for hacking her medical and phone records—one of a series of lawsuits from various well-known people that ultimately led to the paper closing down. “My 30s were intense, too,” she says. “I think my start in adult life was so tainted that it took another decade to kind of release all of that. So much was put on me at a very young age—undeservedly so. I hadn’t had one lm come out before I was suddenly very famous. Being given those labels without having a body of work that I was proud of made me feel like, ‘What the fuck am I doing here?’” she says. “I can look back on that time

down at her baby. “I mean, isn’t life remarkable? Now that I’m in this completely content place I look back on all of those times with real fondness because I feel like I’ve lived 17 lives, and I’ve got a whole other chunk to go.”

Miller soon built up an impressive body of work. From her start in Guy Ritchie’s Layer Cake, through a series of roles (Edie Sedgwick in Factory Girl, Tippi Hedren in e Girl, Taya in American Sniper), to a standout turn as anguished mother Debra in American Woman and more recently Sophie Whitehouse, the wife of a cheating politician in the critically acclaimed Net ix series Anatomy of a Scandal, punctuated by turns on Broadway and in the West End—her career has followed a trajectory all her own.

“It’s always been the same: I would read something and if I loved it, I would go and do it,” Miller says. “But there wasn’t a lot of strategy in terms of: ‘Is this director capable?’” Today, she nds herself craving parts in lms “that peo-

more fun at work.”

Enter: Kevin Costner. Horizon: An American Saga is Costner’s passion project, a magnum opus set to play out in four (!) full-length lms, the rst two of which are coming out in theaters this summer. e lms, which tell the story of the settlement of the American West across 15 years, both pre- and post-Civil War, are Costner’s rst time directing since 2003, and he’s apparently been writing them since 1988, when Miller was just seven. Miller stars as Frances Ketteridge, protective of child and tight of corset, trying to raise her daughter in the unforgiving American West. For Miller, a child of the ’80s and ’90s who grew up “obsessed” with Costner, the experience has bordered on the surreal. “I got this strange call saying Kevin Costner would like to talk to you and we’re not sure what it’s about. e Zoom starts and…” She puts her hand to her brow, theatrically. “Be still my ’90s heart.” At the end of the call, Costner said: “‘I have one question for you: ‘Will you go west with me, Sienna?’” Miller

I was like, ‘I will go to fucking Mars with you, Kevin. I would go around the world in 80 days with you.’”

Costner, an expert of the period, speaks rapturously about Miller’s performance, and presence on set. “Sienna is not only a world-class actress, she was an example for everyone on set,” he wrote in an email. “She’s fearless in how she embraced this role, and the performance will stand forever. Women for me are so important to be recognized in the expansion of the West and often their story is not told. It was a desperately hard journey, and more times than not, was one that they didn’t choose to embark on. It was gritty and dirty and dangerous, but they did it.…. Sienna embodied all of that desperation and spirit in her performance, and her strength, vulnerability and beauty just jump o the screen. I’m forever grateful to her and what she meant to the rest of the cast and crew.”

Miller is due to go back to Utah this fall to make the third lm. (“Fingers crossed the rst two do

89 COVER STORY
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Alessandra

well.”) Meanwhile, Costner is personally funding Horizon going to Cannes, a rst for Miller. (She has been a judge, but never had a lm at the festival.)

While it would be easy to label this a “new chapter” for Miller, it’s simply where she’s at right now. “At the beginning of this year,” she says, “I woke up and felt like, ‘What do I have to do to get to the point where I’m on that list to work with the directors that I want to work with?’ And, regrettably, unless you have a tiny lm that breaks through and wins awards or you have huge box o ce numbers behind you, it’s really di cult to be in their minds.” She lists Martin Scorsese, Yorgos Lanthimos, Paul omas Anderson, and Greta Gerwig among the directors that she wants to work with “before I die.”

Like most of us, Miller relies on close friends to help her make big career decisions—but hers happen

I’ll read [for the part],’ and she was like, ‘You do not even o er that. Absolutely fucking not.’” ese friendships have allowed Miller to more easily see herself as the accomplished actress she is. “Ultimately what I’m trying to do comes from a place of trying to develop the self-esteem I was lacking for a long time by valuing myself in the way that I want to be valued in my work,” she says. “So I’m saying no to an awful lot of things in the hope that that will give me the con dence to be more assertive about chasing the things that I really want to do.” is determination might seem newfound, but Miller has always been outspoken about the lack of equity in Hollywood, particularly when it comes to pay. roughout her career, Miller—like so many women in her industry— has faced enormous pay disparity, and the acute lack of fairness is not lost on her.

“We’re dealing with an in-

my name is above the title in what became the highest grossing R-rated lm of all time.”

Today, she’s acutely aware of her own worth and clearly, rightly, has very strong opinions on this subject. “It’s a scandal, honestly,” she says. “ e most frustrating part, in retrospect, is my response to it all. It was gratitude versus having enough self-worth to say: ‘Actually, this is bullshit. I deserve way more. And if that’s what you’re o ering, I don’t want it. Fuck you.’” Now though, Miller is rm. “I was willing to accept it,” she says. “But Hollywood doesn’t respect that kind of behavior. You have to be a bit of an asshole. And now, because it’s been so exposed, people are very scared of fucking up. It’s really nice to see the people in power in Hollywood making these decisions being on the back foot. ey’re terri ed of their own misogyny being exposed and I feel much

two-piece. “ at kind of ownership of oneself is a di erent generation, in a way,” she says. “Growing up in the world that I grew up in, everything was so criticized and judged that it’s an adjustment to get to a place where you can be in charge of your own narrative and celebrate what’s happening to your body in a way that isn’t torn apart. I tread carefully because of the experience I had but, actually, Rihanna ran so we could walk. Why would we be encouraged to hide that? No! It’s the most extraordinary thing. And I thought—aren’t the photos [last year, she was photographed by Annie Liebowitz for American Vogue at 28 weeks] incredible things for her to have?”

It’s naptime for the baby, and while Miller would be happy to keep talking, she has to pack: In a few days, she and Green are headed to the Met Gala in New York. She gathers her baby daughter in her arms

“I FEEL LIKE I’VE LIVED 17 LIVES, AND I’VE GOT A WHOLE OTHER CHUNK TO GO.”

to be Emily Blunt, Scarlett Johansson, and Jennifer Lawrence. “ ose are my three best girlfriends in the industry,” she says. “ ey’re like three sisters, and they’re the most successful women in Hollywood. I can run stu by them and they’ll be like, ‘No fucking way.’ I was talking to Jen [Lawrence] the other day and something came up and I was like ‘I want to do that!

dustry where we’re all paid stupid amounts of money, so it’s di cult to talk about it sensitively,” she says. “But I’ve worked with so many male movie stars who have been really happy for me at the salary I got, whilst getting maybe 90 times more than I was. For American Sniper, for example, I got paid less than what one TV [advertising] spot would cost the studio and

more emboldened to point a nger and say ‘no.’”

For a moment it seems as though her baby might actually make a noise, but no. (“It’s weird! I actually Googled ‘Is it alright if babies don’t cry?’ the other day.”) Miller is very much taking her second child in stride: Last year, she proudly showed her baby bump on a Vogue World red carpet in a Schiaparelli

and she walks me to the front door “You know, the narrative around me has been one of resilience and ‘wasn’t it hard?’ But I don’t look back on my life that way,” she says, rocking her daughter slightly from side to side. “I don’t see my life as this hard thing. I look at it as incredibly fun and rich and textured and scary but, honestly, I don’t know that I’d have it any other way.”

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Seasonal musings from mind of our resident cultural critic. WITH JOAN JULIET BUCK

A BATHING SUIT IS NOT AN EVENING DRESS

Back from the ball, her long dress wet from too much dancing, hair askew, mascara smudged, the 17-year-old stands at her sink an hour before dawn, tugging her long white kid gloves back on because they will shrivel and harden like dead petals unless she washes them right now, before she goes to bed, with her hands inside them. e soap suds feel oddly wrong through the wet white leather, like swimming fully dressed. e gloves will dry on the towel rack for a day or two,

and before she puts them away, she will blow into each palm to in ate the ngers, but the thumb will always resist. e clean but no-longer-perfect gloves will be good enough for second-best galas. For best, there will be a new pair of long white kid gloves with three pearl buttons at the wrist. And a new long dress to ruin on the dance oor.

at was me at 17, maintaining the accessories of privilege according to my mother’s rules. I had to be responsible for the ne things I was given, keep them in good shape,

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PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES Megan Fox

make them last. Money, time, and endless care went into dressing for show to exude an aura of digni ed elegance that I could then demolish on the dance oor. Hours at the hairdresser, blasts of hairspray, a scented bath, diligent shaving of the legs and the armpits, the slow, precise application of makeup, the careful pulling on of those new kid gloves, and out the door, a borrowed fur on the shoulders.

I want to say to my 17-year-old self: By the time you write this, fur will be illegal, the chore of shaving will be nothing compared to the pain of having all your pubic hair ripped out with hot wax, makeup will be done by professionals, and not one woman will have washed a kid glove in 40 years. e clothes to show o in will be swimsuits, tubes of netting, fringes of beads or scatters of sand worn over nothing but some glue and maybe a thong, a ribbon, a diaper.

I want to say to the 17-year-old-me that Taylor Swift, the biggest pop star in the world, will wear glitter-studded bathing suits for her sold-out stadium shows. Millions of young girls will worship her as a blonde Wonder Woman. ey will want party swimsuits; they will go online to buy tiny nylon dresses as tight as sausage casings and just as attering, often for no more than the price of a 12-pack of chorizo –but it’s too exhausting to

explain online shopping for cheap fashion to a mere construct inside my head, so I will turn my attention back to the reader.

Why has the bathing suit replaced the dress?

Why is nylon mesh dotted with haphazard clumps of fabric petals suddenly considered attractive for anything other than bedroom curtains?

Is this a way of accepting global warming?

Is this because we are running out of actual fabric?

I do not think that this is sexual provocation, despite how much skin is

on show. Taylor Swift’s costumes have the innocent sparkle of the bathing suits on traditional pinups from fourth-century Roman mosaics to World War II calendar girls and Marilyn Monroe on the poster for Love Nest. No one wore swimsuits anywhere but the beach unless there was money involved – money from sponsors, pornographers, peep show producers, makers of lingerie or swimwear.

Money, as so often, is the answer.

e most expensive thing you can wear today is nothing.

Kendall Jenner Rita Ora

It used to be a color, the color purple. e Phoenicians, Greeks, and Romans used purple dye from the Murex sea snail as the ultimate sign of wealth and restricted its use to the nobility and priests en it was clothes and jewels. From the Renaissance onward, men commissioned portraits of their wives and daughters wearing layers of brocade, ta eta, and satin decorated with gold and lace. e dresses were cut to enhance their best features:

the 20th century, but ball gowns still frothed up into generous crinolines.

Big, long skirts hid the part of their anatomy that women most hate about themselves: the underside of the buttocks, known to science as the subgluteal region, the most unruly, disobedient part of the female body, the seat of shame.

e forgotten workhorse of the anatomy hides so well from its owner that two mirrors are needed to trap it. Consciously or not, unless she is wearing a big

IS THIS A WAY OF ACCEPTING GLOBAL WARMING?

shoulders, breasts, and, if they were narrow, waists. Women were chattel; their necks were useful for displaying the jewelry that proved their husbands’ wealth. e more esh on view, the more room there was for pearls, rubies, diamonds.

With the breasts and neck so exposed, the skirts functioned as ballast and security detail, barring access to the lower part of the woman’s body. e sti brocade triangles of the Tudors grew at in front and wide at the sides in the 18th century, and for the rest of the 19th century – after a brief post-revolutionary period of diaphanous white dresses that the bold wore soaking wet to reveal their shapes – skirts were huge circular tents over sti ened horsehair hoops, and then came ru ed rear-end bustles. Skirts grew shorter in

long skirt, every woman brushes her hand against the subgluteal region as she enters or exits a room. is unreliable autonomous region is resistant to normal exercise routines; it can be soft, apping, bumpy, or distended, and sometimes it races away down the backs of the thighs in waterfall cascades of skin.

And yet that swampy portion of the limbs has taken the place of the decolleté. On proud display, it goes to the Met Gala. It travels with Kristen Stewart’s wardrobe of underpants. Encased in tights, it is part of Taylor Swift’s stage persona. e backs of perfect thighs are the most expensive thing you could wear.

Madonna made it all possible. Her in uence on taste, performance and self-presentation turned out to be pervasive, and

absolute.

Madonna’s video for “Like a Virgin” came out in1984, at about the same time women stopped washing their kid gloves. Its brilliant director Mary Lambert gave equal time to the gyrations of the 24-year-old dancer bucking through the canals of Venice on a gondola, her muscled calves in electric blue leggings, as to her surrender to a lion-headed beast in a palazzo, a virgin bride being unwrapped.

Object and subject. She wanted, she craved, she lusted. Onstage she pioneered torn lace, distressed underwear, lingerie, leo-

Wonder Woman
Kristen Stewart Taylor Swift PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES Halle Bailey

ALL THESE NAKE TO THE CHALLEN

D WOMEN ARE RISING GE POSED BY MADONNA

tards, bathing suits, conical bras, dominatrix leathers, and most of all, her thighs. She was never tall, her limbs were never long, but her thighs have won.

All these naked women wearing netting on red carpets are rising to the challenge posed by Madonna. At rst you think they look exposed, awkward, vulnerable to the predatory male gaze. You think they look like victims, like chattel (again) for sale in a public market.

But they’re competing with Madonna for who has the best thighs.

Madonna is now 65 years old, still touring, her once-chubby face sculpted into something entirely other. Her aura no longer galvanizes or shocks, she is being slowed down, but her victorious thighs are as present as ever. She uses

every platform to prove how perfectly muscled they are, if sometimes bruised from multiple cuppings or battered from a fall.

Owning such thighs is like owning the nest racehorse, the sleekest car, a rocket to the moon. ose thighs cost more than all the brocade in the Tudor court, than all the Murex in the Mediterranean.

ey represent more woman-hours than the most fanatically beaded couture extravaganza. Madonna has tamed that autonomous region of the body.

She works out for those thighs, apparently for ve hours a day. Say she started at 15, that’s 50 years of ve hours a day for 365 days, that’s 91,250 hours, without counting performances and rehearsal. Let’s say a minimum of half a million hours for those thighs. at is conspicuous consumption of time. No one except a star whose job it is to have such thighs has the time to work so hard and so long on taut, perfect muscles. Madonna is paid to be Madonna; the red-carpet nude mesh women are paid, one hopes, to wear the nude mesh.

ey have spent days, months, years, to have thighs good enough to go naked to a party. ere is no dress to ruin on a dance oor, because the concoctions of tulle, net, mesh, sand, petals, and glittery stones will have fallen apart long before they left the party. ere is only a body for time to ruin.

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Madonna Ratin rem ide mol

Ti any & Co. reveals Ti any Wonder in Tokyo, its largest and most prominent exhibition to date. With 10 rooms, and exploring 187 years of jewelry making, this is the rst time many of the brand’s most precious works can be seen by the public.

A WOR OF

WO

FEATURE

LD NDERS

Dragon y Brooch Julia Munson under the direction of Louis Comfort Ti any for Ti any & Co. Gold, platinum, black opals, demantoid garnets 1904–1914.
FEATURE
Above: Ti any’s legendary Bird on a Rock sits perched on the iconic Ti any blue box to welcome visitors to the exhibit. Below: The beginning of the exhibit, The Wonder of Origin, takes the viewer through a history of the brand, spanning almost two centuries of beauty and innovation.

WWith 187 years of jewelry-making history, a dening presence in the archive of both pop and celebrity culture, and collaborations with Supreme, Daniel Arsham, Blackpink, and Pharrell, Ti any & Co. transports its collectors, lovers, and admirers on an immersive, international journey with its latest exhibit, Ti any Wonder. A retrospective for the ages, Ti any Wonder is a visual tour through hundreds of the jeweler’s masterworks, an exploration of its lineage of legendary diamonds and a showcase of the wonderment sparked by that little blue box.

On display through June 23 at Tokyo’s Node Gallery, Ti any Wonder carries the storied legacy more than 6,500 miles from its New York City agship and nests on the 44th oor of one of the city’s most prominent and tallest buildings.

“ e idea of wonder has been integral to our DNA since 1837,” said Alexandre Arnault, executive vice president of product, communications, and industrial, at Ti any & Co. “Since the very beginning, each design that we’ve imagined and each piece that we’ve handcrafted has been rooted in our mission to spark wonder and inspire the world’s greatest love stories. Our latest exhibition celebrates this spirit in a city of great importance to Ti any & Co. Tokyo.”

Designed by Ellen van Loon and Giulio Margheri (from Rem Koolhaas’ OMA), the exhibition takes place within the OMA-designed Toranomon Hills Station Tower. is is the latest in an ongoing series of collaborations between OMA and Ti any & Co., including a temporary store on Avenue Montaigne in Paris, a pavilion at the Jewellery

“Each design that we’ve imagined and each piece that we’ve handcrafted has been rooted inspire the world’s greatest love stories.”—Alexandre Arnault in our mission to spark wonder and
Dolphin Clip Jean Schlumberger for Ti any & Co. Gold, platinum, diamonds, emeralds, sapphires 1962 (design) Courtesy Jennifer Tilly.

Exhibition in Doha in 2023, and the rethinking of the landmark Fifth Avenue boutique in New York.

of Ti any’s most exceptional creations including the rst Bird on a Rock brooch from 1965 designed by one of the 20th century’s most gifted designers, Jean Schlumberger. Uplifting the exceptional craftsmanship, unparalleled diamond authority and inventiveness of Ti any, the exhibition will bring the joy of the House to every visitor.”

Each of the hundreds of objects throughout the 10-room Ti any Wonder (comprised of e World of Ti any, Wonder of Origin, Wonder of Design, “Garden of Imagination,” Jean Schlumberger, In Love with Japan, Won-

ve, illuminated bird atop an iconic blue box.

e many chapters of Ti any Wonder, beginning with e World of Ti any and Wonder of Origin, guide visitors through the story of Tiffany & Co., starting with Charles Lewis Ti any, who founded the company in 1837. Discover how he created the Blue Book, a marvel of modern catalog marketing, and the iconic blue box, an object of desire in its own right. An impressive array of artifacts includes the ledger book in which Ti any recorded his rst sale on the rst day of business. e historical presentation whirls you

Ti any Wonder, Tiffany & Co.’s largest exhibition to date, prominently highlights the moments that intertwine the jewelry makers’ DNA with Japanese craft and design. In 1837, Charles Lewis Ti any began o ering his clients select imported Japanese goods, a rarity in the American market. Later, many of Ti any & Co.’s collaborative artists, such as Edward C. Moore, who collected silverware from Japan; Louis Comfort Ti any, who employed wisteria, a Japaneexceptional creations including the first Bird on a Rock brooch

“Our latest exhibition showcases some of Tiffany’s most from 1965 designed by one of the 20th century’s most gifted designers, Jean Schlumberger.”—Anthony Ledru

se symbol of immortality and love, and dragon ies within his lamps; and Elsa Peretti, all found inspiration in Japanese materials. Culturally signi cant silk knots, cords, and lacquer boxes in uenced Peretti in her work for the brand.

“Ti any & Co. has been inspired by Japan for decades and the House’s authentic connection and extensive history in the region has only continued to grow,” said Anthony Ledru, president and CEO of Ti any & Co. “Our latest exhibition showcases some

der of Dreams, Breakfast at Ti any’s, Wonder of Celebration, “ e Diamond Kings,” the Ti any Diamond) tells a story of craft, creativity, heritage, and modernity—many of which have never been on public display until now.

Showstopping works include a room dedicated to Jean Schlumberger’s Bird on a Rock brooch and the 128.54-carat Ti any Diamond.

Encapsulating the brand’s most essential codes, the stunning arrival moment features a massi-

chronologically from the 1800s to Beyoncé’s recent collection.

Craftsmanship appears in the spotlight as the narrative progresses to Wonder of Design with some of the stunning and rare objects that de ne Ti any & Co., such as the ornate Medusa pendant; a rare George Paulding Farnham orchid brooch with enamel, emeralds, diamonds, and pink sapphires; and a Paloma Picasso pearl necklace with a kunzite of over 715 carats (one of Ti any & Co.’s legacy gemstones) and an

FEATURE
The Ti any Diamond Gold, platinum, diamonds, pink sapphires 1878 (The Ti any Diamond); 2022 (setting).

Fleur de Mer Clip

Jean Schlumberger for Ti any & Co. Gold, platinum, diamonds, sapphires 1956

Provenance: Dame Elizabeth Rosemond Taylor (1932–2011).

Medusa Pendant Louis Comfort Ti any Gold, demantoid garnets, opal, sapphires 1902–1904

Exhibited at the 1904 Louisiana Purchase Exposition, St. Louis, Missouri.

Orchid Clip

George Paulding Farnham for Ti any & Co. Gold, sterling silver, diamonds, emeralds, pink sapphires, enamel 1889

Exhibited at the Exposition Universelle de 1889, Paris, France.

“Tiffany & Co. has been inspired by Japan for decades and the House’s authentic connection and extensive history in the region has only continued to grow.”—Anthony Ledru

intersecting X ribbon of pavé diamonds. ese precious pieces are mounted in cases, showing o both the front and back for those who desire to see the intricate details.

e work of Schlumberger, who joined Ti any & Co. in 1956, is prominently showcased throughout “Garden of Imagination.” Birds ock to rocks everywhere, both in mineral and digital form. Metaphorically, the bird guides her ock through Ti any Wonder, to vitrines that mimic their rocks: amethyst, tanzanite, aquamarine, citrine, and spessartine. e rst Bird on a Rock is a gold, platinum,

and diamond bird with ruby eyes atop lapis lazuli, gifted by Schlumberger to American socialite and horticulturalist Bunny Mellon in 1965. Beyond the bird, Schlumberger’s French glamour and elegance combined with Ti any’s mastery and extraordinary gemstones proved to be a perfect match, as observed in his Plumes necklace set with diamonds, rubies, and sapphires, and orns, Strawberry and Fleur de Mer clips.

Wonder of Dreams details the fabulous window displays at Ti any & Co. boutiques worldwide that capture shoppers’ imaginations. Gene Moore created

the aspirational window aesthetic. e works of Jasper Johns, Baz Luhrmann, and many other artists who have designed windows for the jeweler can be found here.

Breakfast at Ti any’s details Ti any & Co.’s contribution to lm. e opening sequence from the 1961 lm takes center stage, demonstrating the window display’s power. Ephemera such as Holly Golightly’s black Givenchy gown, the Oscar Henry Mancini won for the Breakfast at Ti any’s score, and Truman Capote’s annotated script are all present.

In a hall-of-fame-style room, the Wonder of Cele-

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In Love with Japan: This room highlights the special relationship Ti any & Co. enjoyed with Japan from its earliest days. This section presents some of the Japanese inspiration for designers, including Edward C. Moore, Louis Comfort Ti any and Elsa Peretti.

bration, sports trophies designed by Ti any & Co., photographs of Pharrell in Ti any & Co. diamond glasses, Beyonce wearing Ti any & Co. jewelry during her Renaissance tour, and Liza Minnelli wearing the actual Peretti bone cu she lent to Ti any Wonder punctuate the brand’s star power.

e exhibition’s penultimate section, “ e Diamond Kings,” is a tribute to Ti any & Co.’s authority on ne diamonds and features some of the rarest stones in the world, from the French crown jewels to Jean Schlumberger’s extravagant works. Ti any diamonds capture the spirit of creativity, from the organic shapes of Art Nouveau to the elegant bows and diamond necklaces of the Belle Epoque, from the sophisticated geometries of Art Deco to contemporary expressionism.

Ti any Wonder’s pinnacle moment concludes with its crown jewel, the 128.54-carat Ti any Diamond, set in a transformable new creation inspired by the Bird on a Rock brooch. Lady Gaga famously wore this diamond to the 2019 Oscars. e extraordinary new design took nearly 2,000 hours, with artisans individually setting over 75 total carats of diamonds—1,220 round brilliant diamonds and 35 oval diamonds— and 10 round pink sap-

phires by hand. Until now, the Ti any Diamond has only been featured in four designs. In 1957, the gemstone was set in a necklace, suspended in a pendant of 20 diamonds from a rivière of 64 diamonds. In 1961, it was set in Jean Schlumberger’s Ribbon Rosette necklace. In 1995, the Ti any Diamond was set in the Bird on a Rock brooch for Jean Schlumberger’s retrospective at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris. In 2012, it was mounted in a necklace set with over 100 carats of diamonds to commemorate Ti any’s 175th anniversary.

In 2021, Beyoncé wore the Ti any Diamond and 175th anniversary necklace in the “About Love” campaign with Jay-Z. To commemorate the grand reopening of the landmark Fifth Avenue boutique, the Ti any Diamond was reset in its current iteration in 2023. is is the famed diamond’s ninth appearance in Japan.

Seeing this wonder in real life is a jewelry lover’s dream and a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity not to be missed. Ti any Wonder Tokyo is open through June 23. It would be hard to imagine that this extraordinary exhibit wouldn’t take ight to other cities.

Tickets are available on the Ti any & Co. app on the iOS and Google Play stores.

106 FEATURE
Bird on a Rock Brooch Jean Schlumberger for Ti any & Co. Gold, platinum, diamonds, colored diamonds, ruby, lapis lazuli 1965 Virginia Museum of Fine Arts, Richmond, Collection of Mrs. Paul Mellon. Bone Cu Elsa Peretti for Ti any & Co. Gold 1970 (design); 2021 (manufacture).

Thorns Clip

Jean Schlumberger for Ti any & Co

Gold, platinum, diamonds, colored diamonds, morganite 1947

Provenance: Millicent Rogers (1902–1953).

Kunzite Necklace Paloma Picasso for Ti any & Co. Gold, platinum, diamonds, kunzite, pearls 1990.

FASHION

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AFTER

HOURS

When night falls, true glamour shines.

CREATIVE DIRECTION AND PHOTOGRAPHY

GREG ADAMSKI/ MMG ARTISTS

STYLING LAURA JANE BROWN

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THE DAWN IS NOT DISTANT, NOR IS THE NIGHT STARLESS; LOVE IS ETERNAL.

Chanel dress, (800) 550-0005.

ROCK OUT WITH YOUR FROCK OUT

Kim Gordon
Going to a concert and dressing like a grown-up? It’s possible, say these backstage veterans. Faran Krentcil nally gets to say she’s with the band, at least until they say what they’re wearing.

I WAS REALLY MAD AT JOHN GALLIANO, so I wore his pink princess dress in the dirt. It was designer dirt, I guess— backstage Coachella soil, anyway—but thenely-tailored whi s of pink Dior chi on didn’t care. ey wilted as e Kills blared “Black Balloon” in the fading desert sun, and by time Arcade Fire climbed onto the main stage around 8 p.m., my frock was coated in a not-so- ne layer of silt, about the same color as Bumble and Bumble Blondish hair powder. I screamed along with the band’s classic song “Rebellion”—it’s easy even if you don’t know the words; you just yell “Lies! Lies!” at the top of your lungs until you

get really mad at every teacher you’ve ever had—and glanced down at the ruins of my once-hallowed frock. It was a grimy whirl of earth and re (well, cigarette ash, anyway) that Kills’ frontwoman proclaimed “very rock n’ roll, actually” when we collided in the port-a-potties later that night. I was thrilled.

I was also in my 20s, the time of life when “adulting” feels like a faraway verb instead of a daily practice. And while a love of too-loud music continues to thump through my veins, the idea of dressing like a pixie in a snit no longer feels fun, cool, or rebellious. Actually, it feels like a costume—the last thing I want to wear as an actual grown-up who is nally con dent in her body, her style, and her ability to understand the ne print of a mortgage as well as thener points of the new Maggie Rogers album. (Verdict: It’s excellent, and one of the few records that celebrates female friendships with the same undeniable pulse as romantic love. Get into it.)

At the same time, it’s undeniable that after four years of pandemic dormancy, capital-C Concerts are back. Last year, Ticketmaster sold over half a billion tickets for in-person events worldwide, a 13 percent increase from the year before. Live Nation reported that 2023 was its biggest year ever for concerts and festivals, with 145 million people showing up for

over 50,000 events. Taylor Swift alone grossed over $1 billion from her epic Eras Tour, while Beyonce’s iconic Renaissance tour reported a $579 million intake, and over 2.7 million fans showing up—including Timothee and Kylie, obvs—to proclaim they were crazy in love with the pop empress. Tiny shows are back, too, at least according to e Coolest People in the World, otherwise known as underage art school students. “I go to at least one live show a week, usually more like two or three,” said Layla Blue Rudolph, 21, who studies photography and printmaking in New York City. “ e underground music world is so alive right now.” Rudolph has just completed her latest music zine, a compilation of interviews with bands we mortals are not hip enough to know anything about. (Weathergirl? Le Bang? Mmmkay.)

Rudolph and her friends wear thrifted baby tees and threadbare dip-dyed cargo pants that would make any Blumarine designer throw a jealous t. Other fashion infants don vintage prom dresses to scream their guts out on Olivia Rodrigo’s Guts Tour. For those of us who buy concert tickets and Botox sessions in equal measure, the question remains: How do we dress like adults and also dress like we belong at the festivals where we sport our hard-earned wristbands?

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PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

THE LOOK: Blue Jeans

“I feel like you can’t go wrong with a white tank top and an amazing pair of jeans,” says Rachel Antono , the New York-based fashion designer who has dressed singing starlets like Zooey Deschanel and Hailee Steinfeld for various performances, along with musical theater babes like Tony-winner Ali Stroker. A veteran of New York’s underground punk scene in the late ‘90s, Antono has also traded her trademark vintage satin heels for

You can’t go wrong with a white tank top and an amazing pair of jeans

a sturdy pair of Converse. “You need closed-toed shoes if you’re short like me,” she says, “because if it’s a concert, you’re going to get stepped on.” Antono can often be seen backstage at concerts with her brother, Grammy Award-winning

producer Jack Antono , the frontman for the rock group Bleachers who also helps Taylor Swift and Lana del Rey craft their well-loved albums. But she views the most divisive of all concert accessories—the backstage lanyard pass—as less of an in-crowd fashion statement and more of a memory token. “I think keeping any memento of a fun experience is cool!” she says. “Plus, I’m a pack rat.” is summer, Antono ’s daisy-embroidered denim jumpsuit has been in especially high demand with concertgoers, thanks to its hippie vibes and hidden pockets, a quiet blessing when you need to stash an extra phone charger, a joint, and both of your Rhode lip gloss colors because you can’t make up your mind.

Aurora by Daisy Jones and the Six

“Do not wear something super-tight!” advises Nora Kirkpatrick, lm director, TV writer, and the accordion player for the band Edward Sharpe and the Magnetic Zeros. Even on a blustery day, the California native says the heat generated by dancing crowds will make you sweat—and make clingy or non-porous fabrics like “vegan” (read: plastic) leather pants and elasticated tube tops a bad bet. “Lately, I’ve been we-

THE LOOK: Kacey Musgraves Zimmermann FW 24/25 PHOTOS: GETTY IMAGES

aring vintage lace blouses under suit vests,” she says, with shirts from Isabel Marant, Zimmermann, and Roberto Cavalli coming out on top. Kirkpatrick recommends layering them with a leather miniskirt and boots you don’t mind getting dirty—Doc Martens or old Balenciaga motorcycle stompers will do. Ensuring you have a good oppy sun hat is also key, perhaps a straw version from Gucci that does the double duty of holding back hair and blocking rays (or hiding tears) during your favorite songs. And if Kirkpatrick’s recommendation of swingy vintage eyelet tops and mud-caked black boots sounds like a Daisy Jones and the Six reference, you’re not wrong. Kirkpatrick is one of the Emmy-nominated writers and producers on that music-centered show.

the Creator

“You have to remember that a concert is essentially a light show,” says Violette

Serrat, the Guerlain creative director and former Dior makeup maven who has seen concert queens like Rihanna and Madonna on two continents. “And really, most people will be seeing your face more than your clothes.” Serrat pairs black jersey dresses from Celine and e Frankie Shop with a deep red lip and glitter scattered across her cheekbones and in the outer corners of her eyelids. “You want your favorite features to catch the lights,” she says, “and honestly, you do not want to wear foundation if you can help it, because you will probably get very sweaty, and a heavier makeup look could lead to breaking out. Just do sunscreen, concealer, a lip if you want, and then the glitter. It’s much more modern and fun, and when you take sel es during the show, you will have all the highlighter you need in the glitter itself.” As for shoes, Serrat says a good sneaker like Veja or a cowboy boot are both great—as long as there’s no heel. “Whatever you do, go ats,” she said. “ at is how to be an adult woman at a concert, I think. You know how to feel good on your own two feet.”

Most of the people will be seeing your face more than your clothes

Wanna Be Kate by Ben Folds

For those still determined to live out their Kate Moss-at-Glastonbury moment, an interesting thing to note: When Moss was wearing her teeny golden tunic and Wellington boots in 2005, the famous dress was a hand-me-down from longtime friend and classic rock muse Anita Pallenberg. “She really mixed it up, because of course she had a wonderful relationship with so many designers like Yves Saint Laurent and Burberry,” says Pallenberg’s son, Marlon Richards, whose father is Keith Richards of e Rolling Stones. “But she would also drag me down to Canal Street to go shopping and come back with, like, $5 sunglasses that she thought were amazing!” Richards recommends using a similar high-low strategy as his mother at concerts and festivals, though not for aesthetics alone: A great music show is basically the ultimate party, and if you’re dancing with wild abandon, a stack of bangle bracelets, a barrette, or a scarf can easily tumble into the crowd. at’s a small o ering for the rock gods if it’s a plastic bauble from H&M—but a far di erent type of sacrice if the lost pair of shades come from Gucci instead of CVS. Be a grown-up: Leave the $600 sunglasses at home.

She really mixed it up, because of course she had a wonderful relationship with so many designers

123 FEATURE THE
LOOK: I
Elle Fanning Kate Moss and Pete Doherty THE LOOK: Glitter by Tyler,

Hot TO WN

Summer in the city is sometimes inescapable, so if you can’t slip away, simply stay and slay.

PHOTOGRAPHY SANTIAGO RUISEÑOR STYLING ANNIE LASK
125 FASHION
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As the temperature rises, so do this
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Del Core dress, delcore.com; Uniqlo knit, uniqlo.com; Tabio socks, tabiousa.com.

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On Left: Missoni sweater, missoni.com. On Right: Missoni sweater, missoni.com. HAIR DENNIS
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HUANG ZHOU AT ELITE MODEL MANAGEMENT ENA AT LA MODELS
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COURTESY OF GUCCI. RAYMOND HALL/GC IMAGES Gucci Spring/Summer 2024.
PHOTOS:

We wear

SHORT SHORTS

is summer’s tailored mini shorts havealongandsurprisingoriginstory.

Sabato De Sarno’s Spring/Summer

WORDS ALISON S. COHN

2024 Gucci debut is one of those directional collections that set the tone for a new kind of look in fashion. His predecessor Alessandro Michele’s fashion magpie layers were enormously in uential, so whatever he showed was bound to be a shock to the system. And I’ll admit that when the rst model stepped out on the runway in a peak lapel coat worn over a simple white tank top and tiny black shorts, my rst reaction was “not short shorts!” I’ve loved the mid-length and Bermuda styles that have been trending for the past few years, replacing the ultra low-rise ve-pocket denim shorts that had been adored by seemingly every avatar of festival style from Kate Moss and Amy Winehouse to Rihanna and Beyoncé since the mid2000s. I breathed a sigh of relief the day I sent my own Rag & Bone pair with in-

seams so short the pockets stuck out the bottom o to e RealReal.

But as one pair of short shorts after another in luxe fabrications like oxblood calf bonded leather and magnetic green wool paraded down the Gucci runway with coordinating jackets and coats, my eyes started to adjust, and I had to admit that these were not the denim cuto s worn with crop tops for maximum skin exposure that I remembered. Indeed, smartly tailored styles with high waists turned up everywhere in the Spring/ Summer 2024 collections. Khaite paired black satin shorts with double-faced silk gazar poet blouses, while Michael Kors Collection showed lace shorts with a cashmere turtleneck and LaQuan Smith teamed paper bag-waist embossed-croc shorts with a satin button-down. Stella McCartney’s elevated ensembles included cheeky gold brocade shorts and cry-

FEATURE
Kristen Stewart steps out in Brunello Cucinelli knit mini shorts and nude hosiery, 2024.

stal-embellished cumberbunds and Prince of Wales check coats. New Tom Ford designer Peter Hawkings showed a textural series of short suits in croc-embossed lurex, cotton velvet, and lustrous cotton blend duchesse. And Prada presented 20 di erent pairs of belted wool shorts styled with wool blazers, printed poplin shirts, or cashmere

“It’s definitely the update to the micro mini and a lot easier to wear.”
—KATIE

polos neatly tucked in.

ough retailers are largely calling the short shorts you’ll nd in stores this summer mini shorts, they’re a close analogue of both the tap shorts worn by Old Hollywood stars from the 1940s to 1950s and a short lived trend called hot pants from 1971. First worn by Ginger Rogers and studio dancers in movie musicals, tap shorts were adopted by pin-up girls-turned-movie stars like Marilyn Monroe and Betty Grable who often paired them with heels for their promotional photos. At the Dior Pre-fall 2024 show held in New York

in April, Maria Grazia Chiuri sent out chic little three-piece short suits in a range of English tailoring fabrics inspired by the more androgynous look of actress and singer Marlene Dietrich’s signature shortsand-tails; one model even carried a top hat.

Women’s Wear Daily publisher John Fairchild coined the phrase “hot pants”—the industry newspaper styled it HotPants—for an October 1970 article trumpeting a fresh crop of dressy shorts from designers including Giorgio di Sant’ Angelo and Betsey Johnson worn with boots or platform sandals. Jane Birkin wore hot pants soon after, as did Yves Saint Laurent’s muses Loulou de la Falaise and Marisa Berenson at the designer’s pivotal Spring/Summer 1971 haute couture Scandal show, and soon the look was, for a brief time, everywhere. “What are the designers going to pick when they revive the 1970s? Shorts, maybe,” New York Times fashion critic Bernadine Morris griped in a January 1971 column. “In the old days they never left the beach or the backyard, except in Busby Berkeley musicals, when they tapped. Now they’re all dressed up with tailored jackets or coats, and they’re ready to go out to lunch or dinner. at’s progress for you. Maybe the restaurateurs in New York will provide the protest.”

Morris was clutching her pearls in the era portrayed in Ryan Murphy’s Feud: Capote vs. e Swans

150 FEATURE
PHOTOS: KRISTY SPAROW/GETTY IMAGES. COURTESY OF PRADA. COURTESY OF MICHAEL KORS COLLECTION. MARCO MANTOVANI/GETTY IMAGES. COURTESY OF DOLCE & GABBANA. COURTESY OF DIOR. COURTESY OF STELLA MCCARTNEY. COURTESY OF VERSACE. HANNA TVEITE. DON ASHBY/FIRSTVIEW. COURTESY OF MAX MARA. COURTESY OF EMPORIO ARMANI. COURTESY OF ISABEL MARANT
Lisa poses in Louis Vuitton leather shorts and sheer black thigh-highs, 2024. Prada SS24 Michael Kors Collection SS24 Tom Ford SS24 Dolce & Gabbana SS24 Dior PF24 Stella McCartney SS24 Versace PF24 Khaite SS24 LaQuan Smith SS24 Max Mara SS24 Emporio Armani SS24 Isabel Marant SS24

Ultra-low-rise ve-pocket denim shorts were the 2000s-de ning shorts look, thanks to music festival habitués like Kate Moss and Amy Winehouse.

when New York’s best restaurants still maintained arcane dress codes. Nan Kempner had famously been denied entry to La Côte Basque for wearing a Yves Saint Laurent Le Smoking—women were expected to wear dresses or skirts—and removed her pants to get into compliance. She needn’t have worried: e bohemian look soon swept into fashion displacing hot pants for hippie deluxe bell bottoms as the era’s de ning look. But I can’t imagine she’d be too pleased to see that 50 some years later, Dr. Barbara Sturm hosted a VIP dinner at the city’s

“You can always layer something longer around them.”
—TARA SWENNEN

current toughest reservation, Torrisi, wearing a pair of the Khaite mini shorts in leather.

Hot pants followed the 1960s miniskirt. Fashion trends being cyclical, it makes a certain degree of sense that today’s mini shorts would land after the early 2020s de ning silhouette, the Miu Miu skirt, with its waistline cut below the hipbone and hemline above the thigh. “It’s denitely the update to the micro mini and a lot easier to wear,” says Katie Rowland, buying director of women’s wear at Mytheresa. “You can bend over.” e e-retailer has already sold out of

several Gucci, Khaite, and Tom Ford styles.

Kristen Stewart, something of a fashion oracle, modeled a custom Chanel mini short tuxedo at the Oscars back in 2022. “She had worn a pair in Charlie’s Angels and I was like, ‘Girl, you look great in those,’” Stewart’s stylist Tara Swennen recalls. Stewart made mini shorts and heels a xture of her press tour uniform while promoting her new lm, Love Lies Bleeding, this spring. For anyone feeling a bit shy about baring all, Swennen has a couple of styling tips. She suggests wearing mini shorts over tights or

sheer nude hosiery to “contour the leg,” as Stewart did with her Brunello Cucinelli cashmere high-waisted briefs for an appearance on e Late Show With Stephen Colbert. ger Lisa also recently don ned sheer black thigh-hi ghs with Louis Vuitton leather mini shorts. just remember that you can always layer something longer around them like a jacket or duster so then you really only see the front of the leg,” Swennen says, de scribing a look that sounds almost exactly the way I rst encountered this sea son’s mini shorts at Gucci.

153 FEATURE
PHOTOS: ROSIE GREENWAY/GETTY IMAGES. JO HALE/GETTY IMAGES. AFP VIA GETTY IMAGES. APIC/ GETTY IMAGES. ALAIN DEJEAN/SYGMA VIA GETTY IMAGES. MCKEOWN/DAILY EXPRESS/GETTY IMAGES.
From tap shorts to hot pants: High-waisted short shorts in luxe fabrications were favored by the stars of the silver screen Marlene Dietrich and Marilyn Monroe in the 1950s. They had a brief revival in 1971 thanks to the It Girls Marisa Berenson and Loulou de la Falaise, who wore them to Yves Saint Laurent’s infamous Scandal show, and Jane Birkin.

FLEX APPEAL

PHOTOGRAPHY BRIAN DALY FASHION SOPHIE VANDERWELLE is in-between season means mixing trainers with leather and knitwear with tailoring. Dressed up dressing down never looked so good.

FASHION
Gucci coat, bag, gucci.com.

Emporio Armani jacket, trousers, armani.com; Isabel Marant top, isabelmarant.com; Tasaki necklace, tasaki-global.com.

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Max Mara sweater, top, skirt, maxmara.com; Chanel ring, (800) 550-0005.

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Stella McCartney dress, stellamccartney.com; Chanel bracelet, (800) 550-0005.

MODELS MAKE-UP

CLAUDINE BLYTHMAN USING RABANNE HAIR

LINNEA NORDBERG USING L’ORÉAL PROFESSIONNEL BOOKING & PRODUCTION

JESSICA CLEAVER

PHOTOGRAPHER’S ASSISTANT ARTHUR

MILLER RANDALL

FASHION ASSISTANT HAYLEY DOWNES

160 FASHION
Chanel jacket, top, skirt, (800) 550-0005. MODEL LUISA AT MILK
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DREAMWEAVER

Diotima designer Rachel Scott is on a mission to unite artisanal craft traditions across cultures

FEATURE
PHOTOS: MARTINA KEENAN. DEIRDRE LEWIS

“It’s been really, really busy,” says Diotima founder and creative director Rachel Scott when we connect on Zoom in mid-April. She’s not kidding. Scott, the Kingston, Jamaica-born, New York-based designer of crochet and crystal mesh dresses that are quickly becoming a 2020s goingout uniform, is telling me where she’s been since we last saw each other at her

New York Fashion Week presentation two months prior and it’s tiring just hearing her recount her travel schedule. “I went to Paris for appointments, Oakland for a store event, came home, got married, went to Kolkata to meet with artisans, and now I’m back in my studio starting on the next collection,” she says. is whirlwind itinerary is par for the course for the 40-year-old creative. Scott

Rachel Scott. Left: Fall/Winter 2024 presentation WORDS ALISON S. COHN

took a leap of faith in 2021 by starting her own label and leaving her day job as VP of design at Rachel Comey the following year, and she hasn’t stopped moving since. “I think the moment I decided to change that one thing, everything in my life just unraveled and then rebuilt in a new and more interesting way,” she re ects. e past three years have been lled with highs and lows. Scott met her now wife, Chaday Emmanuel Scott, a Jamaican events producer; came out; and divorced her husband, all while trying to build a edgling business. “I spent most of 2022 crying,” Scott says. Last year, things started looking up: She got engaged in the midst of Diotima racking up a slew of industry accolades including winning CFDA American Emerging Designer of

the Year and being named a CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund runner-up and an LVMH Prize nalist.

For the April wedding, both brides wore custom Diotima; Scott, a white crochet gown and Emmanuel Scott, a cream wool suit made from strips of fabric connected by decorative hand stitches. e looks centered Caribbean aesthetics and global artisanal craft, core tenants of Scott’s vision for the label. As a child, Scott loved the starched crochet doilies her relatives used to decorate their homes, and she used to climb mango trees and sit up in their branches for hours to embroider. In her years working for luxury brands in New York and Milan, she saw that in an industry that privileges handmade things, there wasn’t much attention paid

to non-Western craft traditions, and she decided to do something about it. All of Diotima’s crochet is made by women’s collectives in Jamaica, and Scott also recently started working with an Indian embroidery atelier. “Crochet is very much the foundation and it’s threaded through the whole collection, but my interest has always just been craft and handmade and savoir-faire across cultures,” Scott says.

Sustainability is of paramount importance for Scott, who works with the highest grade materials like FSC-certi ed viscose, GOTS-certi ed cotton, and RWS-certi ed wool. “But for me, much more than that sustainability is just an approach to making in general: making sure that the artisans we work with are appropriately compen-

“I THINK THE MOMENT I DECIDED TO CHANGE THAT ONE THING, EVERYTHING IN MY LIFE JUST UNRAVELED AND THEN REBUILT IN A NEW AND MORE INTERESTING WAY.”
PHOTOS: JOSH KOLBO. DEIRDRE LEWIS
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FEATURE
Above: Spring/Summer 2024 presentation. Opposite page: Diotima’s artisan partners in Jamaica
“BIANCA CENSORI WAS TRYING ON A CROCHET DRESS AND APPARENTLY YE TOOK A PAIR OF SCISSORS AND CUT THE BOTTOM OFF BECAUSE HE WANTED IT SHORTER.”

sated because most of the clothes in the world are made in the global south, and these are the people that are at the forefront of climate change,” she says. Scott only designs two collections per year instead of four—Fall/Winter 2024 will start arriving in stores in June during the pre-fall window—and since it’s all lighter weight, it’s meant to be seasonless anyway.

Part of the magic of Diotima is the way designs thread the needle between sensual and cerebral. While best known for bare crochet, the label features oversize tailoring in equal measure. “I always like the sexy stu with a bit of contrast,” Scott says. Diotima’s name-

sake is Diotima of Mantinea, a female philosopher in Plato’s Symposium who taught Socrates that love is beauty. It’s the kind of bookish reference adored by Scott, a Colgate University alum who double majored in art history and French and also did a fashion design intensive at Istituto Marangoni.

But while the Diotima woman is intellectual, she never takes herself too seriously; she’s as at ease in an art gallery as she is at an all-night street party. e Spring/Summer 2024 collection took cues from the work of the Jamaican sculptor Laura Facey, whose carved wood anatomical hearts explore the generational

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From top: Diotima’s signature crochet and mesh designs travel from surf to city, worn by Chaday Emmanuel Scott, Rachel Scott, Krystle Wilson, DeVonn Francis, and Kareen Taylor at the Grand Cayman resort Palm Heights and by Kai Newman and Ayesha Curry at the 2023 CFDA Awards in New York. Opposite page: Spring/Summer 2024 lookbook, photographed at artist Laura Facey’s home in St. Ann, Jamaica.
PHOTOS: BRE JOHNSON, COURTESY OF PALM HEIGHTS. UDO SALTERS/PATRICK MCMULLAN VIA GETTY IMAGES. DIMITRIOS KAMBOURIS/GETTY IMAGES. DEIRDRE LEWIS

trauma of slavery in the Caribbean, and featured a collaboration with the artist on miniature versions worn as amulets. e Fall/Winter 2024 collection had a much lighter focus, following the day in the life of a woman that begins at 4 a.m. after a louche night twerking to dancehall, and follows her buttoning up into daytime looks kids on TikTok might call “o ce siren”— professional, with a bit of sex appeal. From her Zoom square I can see that Scott is wearing one such ensemble: a crisp cotton-poplin shirt with teardrop cutouts over a black bralette.

Scott loves scrolling through Instagram photos tagged with her handle @diotima.world to see how women style her designs IRL One wore a crystal mesh gown backwards with the scoop back barely grazing her breasts (“iconic”), while another layered a crochet top underneath a big white shirt (“really chic”). And then there’s a story she heard from the sta of the Webster in L.A. “Bianca Censori, was trying on a crochet dress and apparently Ye took a pair of scissors and cut the bottom o because he wanted it shorter,” she says. “I can’t wait to see my Ye ‘collab’—it was a mini dress to begin with!” While the looks don’t always strike the balance between sexy and serious that Scott envisioned, she’s cool with that. “I enjoy seeing the lives that these pieces go on to live,” Scott says. She should expect many more exciting tales.

IT’S BEEN (SUR)REAL

A great look can take you from day to night, but the best look is perfect everywhere.

WEI HUAN STYLING DUYUN FASHION
PHOTOGRAPHY
On Left: Givenchy jacket, top, skirt, earrings, socks, shoes, givenchy.com. On Right: Givenchy coat, dress, ring, givenchy.com. On Left: Dior dress, shoes, bag, dior.com. On Right: Dior dress, dior.com.
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Chanel jumpsuit, necklace, bracelets, shoes, (800) 550-0005. On Left: Versace jacket, versace.com. On Right: Versace dress, versace.com.
FASHION
Alexander McQueen dress, earrings, alexandermcqueen.com.
FASHION
On Left: Ferragamo jacket, trousers, shoes, ferragamo.com. On Right: Miu Miu jacket, sweater, shirt, skirt, anklet, shoes, miumiu.com. Louis Vuitton top, trousers, shoes, 866. VUITTON.
177 FASHION
On Left: Celine by Hedi Slimane jacket, skirt, shoes, celine.com. Center: Bottega Veneta mules, bottegaveneta.com. On Right: Celine by Hedi Slimane jumpsuit, shoes, sunglasses, celine.com.

FASHION

On Left: MARRKNULL jacket, jeans, marrknull. com; Burberry boots, burberry.com. On Right: Loro Piana jacket, jeans, loropiana.com.

MAKEUP DENNIS

(LACOCO MODELS)

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ZHANG
HAIR
LI MODELS
JIAJIA
LUCY
ANJI (A. MANAGEMENT), PANG YI(PARAS FIRESTONE CULTURE), ANASTASIA

THE ONE AND ONLY

NAOMI

is summer, the super of all supers gets a solo show at London’s Victoria and Albert Museum

Even among the Trinity, Naomi Campbell is in a class of her own. At the dawn of the 1990s, Campbell, Linda Evangelista, and Christy Turlington came to represent a new type of global celebrity—the supermodel—who not only dominated runways and glossy magazine covers but was also a bona de pop culture icon. Each supermodel was known for her signature walk, but “walk” doesn’t quite seem an adequate term to describe the way Campbell practically glides down the runway with the pure musicality of a dancer.

As Ru Paul sang in “Supermodel (You Better Work),” his 1992 tribute to single-name-only glamazons, “Naomi she is erce!” Or, as Beyoncé later proclaimed on the track “Brown Skin Girl” from her 2020 visual album Black Is King, “Pose like a trophy when Naomi’s walking.” is summer, London’s Victoria and Albert Museum will unveil NAOMI:

In Fashion, opening June 22, the rst exhibition at a major museum to highlight the impact of a single model on the fashion industry and the world at large. e show explores why, three decades after the super-

180 FEATURE
WORDS ALISON S. COHN

This page: Chanel Spring/Summer 1994.

Opposite: Campbell photographed for ELLE UK at age 15, 1986

PHOTOS: MARTIN BRADING. VICTOR VIRGILE/GAMMA-RAPHO VIA GETTY IMAGES NAOMI
PHOTOS: JIM SMEAL/RON GALELLA COLLECTION VIA GETTY IMAGES. PIERRE VAUTHEY/SYGMA VIA GETTY IMAGES. ANTOINE FLAMENT/GETTY IMAGES. GIOVANNI GIANNONI/ PENSKE MEDIA VIA GETTY IMAGES. YANN GAMBLIN/PARIS MATCH VIA GETTY IMAGES. ARNAL/GAMMA-RAPHO VIA GETTY IMAGES. JOHNNY NUNEZ/WIREIMAGE
Clockwise from top: Modeling a Gianni Versace Spring/Summer 1991 gown for a charity fashion show in support of the California Fashion Industry Friends of AIDS Project, 1991. Yves Saint Laurent haute couture Fall/Winter 1987. Torishéju Spring/Summer 2024. Fendi Fall/Winter 1999.

model era, the 54-year-old Londoner is still leaving Fashion Week attendees spellbound in the four fashion capitals—as well as points further a eld like Lagos and Doha—and how Campbell has used her fame as a platform for activism by championing emerging models and designers of color and leading fundraising campaigns for a variety of global humanitarian causes.

“I think what’s really remarkable about Naomi is both her longevity and

her use of her platform to facilitate other narratives beyond fashion,” says V&A Senior Curator, Fashion Sonnet Stan ll, explaining why honoring Campbell was a no-brainer. “Also it goes without saying that the clothes she has worn on the runway encapsulate the best of high fashion across continents.” Stanll and her curatorial team collaborated closely with Campbell to select looks for the exhibit from labels including Chanel, Fendi,

O -White, and Valentino, about half of which come from the model’s own archive. ey also gave her the mic by featuring her personal anecdotes about the pieces in the wall text and the accompanying Rizzoli catalog.

Campbell grew up in a creative home—her mother was a contemporary dancer—but as she tells it, modeling was never a career option she considered. “I wanted to be in theater arts,” she says. “I got sidetracked into modeling.” When she was discovered at age 15 by model agent Beth Boldt, Campbell was hanging out in Covent Garden with school friends from the performing arts academy she attended, and was already an accomplished stage kid who had tap danced in a Culture Club music video and performed

for Queen Elizabeth II. Nevertheless, within a year, Campbell would be uttering down the Yves Saint Laurent haute couture Fall/ Winter 1987 runway in Paris in a feathered cocktail dress and discovering her new calling.

To emphasize Campbell’s unique physicality, moving images are a key motif throughout the exhibit. e very rst thing you’ll see upon entering is a life-size screen with a loop of Campbell walking

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Clockwise from top: With Nelson Mandela at a charity fashion show benefting the Nelson Mandela Children’s Fund, 1998. With Bethann Hardison in New York, 2005. With Azzedine Alaïa in Paris, 1991
“SHE REFERS TO SO MANY OF THE FASHION INDUSTRY PROTAGONISTS AS HER CHOSEN FAMILY.” —SONNET STANFILL
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Clockwise from top: At the V&A Conservation Studio, 2024. Off-White Fall/Winter 2022. Vivienne Westwood Fall/Winter 1993 Super Elevated Ghillie platforms. Thierry Mugler Fall/Winter 1989
MARCO BAHLER, VICTOR VIRGILE/GAMMA-RAPHO VIA GETTY IMAGES. COURTESY VIVIENNE WESTWOOD, PHOTO VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM, LONDON. VICTOR VIRGILE/GAMMA-RAPHO VIA GETTY IMAGES. POOL BASSIGNAC/BENAINOUS/GAMMA-RAPHO VIA GETTY IMAGES.
PHOTOS:

towards you, using show footage from throughout her career. In some clips she will stop and pose at the end of the catwalk like a prima ballerina making her curtain call while in others she’ll do her signature jazzy 1.5 rotation turn.

e opening section also features some of Campbell’s most memorable looks like a Warhol Marilyn screenprint dress from the Versace Spring/Summer

and doing it again.” Spoken like a true performer.

Elsewhere in NAOMI, Campbell chose to exhibit the silvery crystal-embellished Dolce & Gabbana demi-couture gown that she wore to exit the New York Sanitation Department on her nal day of community service following a 2007 assault conviction for a much publicized phone throwing incident. “When I did my community servi-

“I WANTED TO BE IN THEATER ARTS. I GOT SIDETRACKED INTO MODELING.” —NAOMI CAMPBELL

1991 show, which she later reprised at a Los Angeles AIDS fundraiser; a ierry Mugler Fall/Winter 1989 car-inspired corset fashioned from plastic, metal, and acrylic; and the glittering Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen gown she wore in 2019 to receive the Fashion Icon Award at the Fashion Awards organized by the British Fashion Council.

Also on view: a pair of Vivienne Westwood Super Elevated Ghillie platforms, vertiginous 11-inch heels that make pointe shoes look like child’s play. Campbell famously fell wearing them during the designer’s Fall/Winter 1993 Anglomania show, and the V&A acquired the sample with Campbell’s name scrawled inside soon after. “ at fall is part of me, so I own the fall,” Campbell says. “It’s OK, people make mistakes. e most important thing for me is just getting up

ce, the paparazzi were there from the rst day, treating it as if I was doing a runway show,” she says. “So when the last day came, I decided I wanted to walk out and leave with my head held up high.”

At ve foot ten, Campbell has always stood tall, especially next to Azzedine Alaïa, the diminutive ve foot two Tunis-born, Paris-based designer who she called “Papa” and even lived with for a time as a teen model. eirs is one of the more-than-designer-muse relationships the exhibit explores, alongside Campbell’s close friendships with Gianni Versace, Alexander McQueen, Marc Jacobs, and John Galliano.“She refers to so many of the fashion industry protagonists as her chosen family,” Stan ll says.

With her dancer’s physique, Campbell inspired many of the sculptural, -

Dior haute couture Fall/Winter 2006

gure-hugging designs for which Alaïa was renowned, and she even turned down more lucrative gigs to serve as his regular t model.

“Her dance background did so much to inform her physical con dence on the catwalk and I think Alaïa quite encouraged her to use that,” says Stan ll, noting that there will be foota-

public health scourges like Ebola and Covid-19.

Campbell has, too often, been the rst Black model to appear on the cover of a number of magazines, and one of only a few Black models cast in certain shows. Since joining the Black Girls Coalition in 1989, a lobbying group founded by two top models from an

“SHE’LL BE ON THE RUNWAY WHEN SHE’S 75 YEARS OLD. SHE JUST LOVES IT.” —BETHANN HARDISON

ge of Campbell bourréing on pointe and tap dancing from early Alaïa shows and a special mannequin recreating her graceful seated posture from a famous 1991 black-and-white Herb Ritts portrait for which she donned an Alaïa leopard-print bodysuit.

Among the scores of intricately constructed fashion pieces on display, there’s a simple T-shirt emblazoned with the logo for the Nelson Mandela Children’s Fund that represents Campbell’s seemingly unlikely friendship with the South African president and Nobel Peace Prize winner who called Campbell his “honorary granddaughter,” and who she credits with inspiring her to use her platform for social change. Campbell brought some of her supermodel friends to South Africa in 1998 to stage a charity fashion show with Versace in support of Mandela’s fund, and later established her own nonpro t, Fashion for Relief, in 2005, which raised millions of dollars for a variety of causes including disaster relief and ghting

earlier generation, Bethann Hardison and Iman, Campbell has been a consistent and vocal campaigner for equity in the fashion industry, also speaking out for the importance of diverse representation through Hardison’s Diversity Coalition since 2013. “I’ve always called her my Bu alo Soldier,” says Hardison. More recently, Campbell has also shined her light on emerging designers of color by walking in their shows, as she did for a number of designers at Arise Fashion Week in Lagos in 2019 and the Emerge talent showcase in Doha in 2022, or for British-Nigerian-Brazilian designer Torishéju Dumi’s Paris Fashion Week debut during the Spring/Summer 2024 collections.

A deep love for clothes is the connecting thread to all of Campbell’s endeavors. “A lot of us models, you put ’em on, you take ’em o , and you keep it moving,” says Hardison. “Not Naomi. She’ll be on the runway when she’s 75 years old. She just loves it. She’s really a fashion kid.”

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Clockwise from top: Givenchy haute couture Spring/Summer 1997. Accepting the Icon Award in an Alexander McQueen gown at The Fashion Awards, 2019. Leaving community service at the New York City Department of Sanitation in a Dolce & Gabbana gown, 1997.
FEATURE PHOTOS: THIERRY ORBAN/SYGMA VIA GETTY IMAGES. JOHN PHILLIPS/BFC/GETTY IMAGES. MARCEL THOMAS/FILMMAGIC. STEPHANE CARDINALE/CORBIS VIA GETTY IMAGES
Louis Vuitton Spring/ Summer 2008

U—F—O*

Daring new designs that enchant the eye and bemuse the brain.

*UNIQUELY FASHIONABLE

OBJECT

IN YOUR HAND

VALENTINO GARAVANI FRINGE BUCKET BAG

Is this ombré-hued, fringed evening bag comprised of multi-colored shimmering sequins inspired by Sardinian sea anemones? Perhaps it’s the falling cascades of Fourth of July reworks? Either way this unique top-handle bag is sure to catch eyes all summer long with its spectacular sparkle and unabashed glamour.

IN YOUR HOME

As part of an ongoing e ort by Loewe to support artistic endeavors, this spring, ceramicist Andile Dyalvane was commissioned to create works for Loewe Lamps at Salone del Mobile 2024. The result is this amorphous hanging light seen here, titled “Intlaka (Tree Sap).” For this piece, Dyalvane looked to the sap-producing acacia tree, found around his homeland of South Africa. The nest-like clay lamp calls to mind “leaking” amber sap with its tubes of colorful glass. tubes of colorful glass.

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MONASTERO SANTA ROSA

HOTEL & SPA

Perched

a

a

a

a

VIVA

L’ITALIA

FEATURE
atop cli in former monastery on the Amal coast, the 20-bedroom hotel features Michelin-starred restaurant, world-renowned spa, and an outdoor gym, tucked behind lush gardens.
Journey through iconic Italian retreats for a sun-soaked summer
WORDS CASEY BRENNAN

ere is something truly special about summer in Italy. While the country is lovely to visit all year round, things really come alive in the warmest months, showcasing the stunning beauty and welcoming hospitality — not to mention the delicious food.

e journey begins on the Amal Coast at the iconic Hotel Santa Caterina, renowned for its dramatic landscapes and seafront luxury. Perched above the vibrant waters of the Mediterranean, Hotel Santa Caterina is as elegant as it comes. is stylish hotel embodies sophistication with its early 20th-century furnishings and vibrant Vietri ceramics. Each guest room o ers breathtaking sea views, with many featuring expansive terraces or lush gardens. Dining here is a feast for the

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senses, combining the natural beauty of the coast with exquisitely prepared local cuisine. Just a short distance from the bustling streets of Amal , this hotel serves as the perfect base for exploring the nearby towns of Positano, Ravello, and Sorrento. But why would you want to go o site, when the cli side beach club — reachable by a truly jaw-dropping glass-fronted elevator — and manicured gardens have everything you need?

WHILE THE COUNTRY IS LOVELY TO VISIT ALL YEAR ROUND,

THINGS REALLY COME ALIVE IN THE WARMEST MONTHS

Not far from Amal , in the picturesque town of Positano, Hotel Poseidon o ers a mix of history and luxury. What started as a family villa in the 1950s has transformed into a boutique hotel that exudes charm and elegance. With its eclectic design, panoramic pool, and stunning views of both the town and the Tyrrhenian Sea, Poseidon creates a cozy, yet luxurious atmosphere. e hotel remains managed by the Aonzo family, ensuring that every

Formerly

the home of acclaimed Italian director Franco Ze relli, Villa TreVille is now a super-luxe oasis nestled along the Amal Coast showcasing chic yet luxurious design.

PASSALACQUA

Formerly a private home, the property was transformed into a stunning lakeside resort by third-generation hotelier Valentina DeSantis — she also runs the famed Grand Hotel Tremezzo nearby — and features 24 elegantly decorated rooms and suites, farm-to-table dining, and a chic outdoor gym.

in Ischia on the Gulf of Naples, the property, part of the Pellicano Group, features healing thermal spas and a variety of treatments performed with the restorative mineral-rich water.

Originally constructed as a private villa, the Hotel Poseidon is a small, family-run hotel located just steps from the middle of Positano village but far away from the crowds that descend in the popular summer months.

stay feels personal and authentic. Unique experiences such as guided tours in lesser-known parts of Positano and complimentary use of a vintage Volkswagen convertible add to the bespoke feel of the hotel.

A haven of privacy and artistic elegance, Villa TreVille, once the home of Italian lm director Franco Ze relli, retains an air of secluded luxury. Its privileged position o ers unmatched privacy and spectacular views of the sea. Guests can enjoy meals crafted from the villa’s own organic produce, epitomizing the farm-to-table experience in a setting lled with lush Mediterranean gardens. ere is truly no reason to leave the grounds but if you do, the oft-Instagrammed Arienzo Beach Club — you’ve surely spotted the picture-perfect white-and-orange-striped umbrellas on social media — is just steps away.

For those who seek a blend of traditional Italian elegance and modern amenities, Il San Pietro di Positano is the perfect choice. e hotel o ers a private beach, Michelin-starred dining, and panoramic views that are among the best on the Amal Coast. (I’m still dreaming about breakfast on the balcony and tennis on the courts surrounded by lush gardens during a memorable pre-pandemic stay.) Here, luxury is de ned by impeccable service and attention to detail, Italian-style.

Further along the coast, Monastero Santa Rosa, a converted monastery, o ers a tranquil retreat perched atop a cli . With its historical ar-

chitecture, luxurious spa treatments, and an in nity pool overlooking the sea, the hotel provides a peaceful escape combined with the opulence expected from a top-tier luxury resort. Each room, named after traditional herbs found in the gardens, ensures a unique, serene experience deeply connected to the natural beauty of the Amal Coast.

On the volcanic island of Ischia, known for its natural thermal springs, Mezzatorre Hotel & ermal Spa offers a healing retreat set in a 16th-century watchtower. e spa utilizes the island’s thermal waters, providing treatments that rejuvenate both body and mind. Its secluded location and private beach club o er an oasis of tranquility amidst the lush landscapes of Ischia.

Just a boat ride away, Capri, an island synonymous with glamour, is home to J.K. Place Capri, located just above the bustling Marina Grande. e hotel combines stylish decor, stunning views, and a serene garden setting to provide a luxurious escape from the everyday. e emphasis on local Mediterranean avors in the hotel’s restaurant ensures that each meal is not only delicious but also authentically Capri. Hotel La Palma, the oldest hotel in Capri, originally opened in 1822 and now transformed into a 50-room-and-suite hotel, epitomizes timeless charm combined with modern luxury. Located centrally in Capri Village just steps from the famed Via Vittorio Emanuele lined with upscale boutiques and authentic eateries. Hotel La Palma o ers

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MEZZATORRE HOTEL & THERMAL SPA Located HOTEL POSEIDON CASTELLO DI VICARELLO Once a dilapidated 12th century castle, the estate has been transformed to its former glory now featuring nine individually designed suites, two outdoor pools, a farm with organic produce, and an award-winning vineyard.

WHETHER

IT’S

THE SUN-KISSED CLIFFS OF

THE AMALFI COAST OR

THE

QUIET ELEGANCE OF LAKE COMO, ITALY’S SUMMER ALLURE IS TIMELESS

guests an exquisite base to explore island delights, featuring a rooftop restaurant, plush rooms, and a vibrant atmosphere that mirrors the Mediterranean’s allure.

Moving north to the Italian Riviera, Belmond Splendido sits in the postcard-perfect town of Porto no. is hotel, once a monastery, now serves as a sanctuary of elegance with breathtaking sea views and a picturesque setting. Guests can enjoy al fresco dining, luxuriate by the saltwater pool, or explore the charming streets of Porto no.

In Tuscany’s Monte Argentario, Hotel Il Pellicano o ers a discreet, yet glamorous retreat. Known as a former love nest for a charismatic American socialite and dashing British aviator, it now attracts the global elite with its stunning sea views, Michelin-starred dining, and chic decor. e hotel’s terraced gardens and private beach club provide the perfect backdrop for a luxurious Italian summer.

Also in Porto Ercole, the newly opened La Roqqa and Isolotto Beach Club e ortlessly blends contemporary

luxury with classic Italian elegance. Set against the dramatic cli s of Tuscany, this 55room boutique hotel o ers an exquisite rooftop dining experience and an exclusive beach club, rede ning relaxation with panoramic views and re ned hospitality. Just a scenic drive from Rome and Florence, it’s the perfect escape to indulge in the slower pace and natural beauty of coastal Italy.

Facing the picturesque Lake Como, the Grand Hotel Tremezzo is an icon of Italian luxury. With its Art Nouveau design, panoramic views, and lush park, guests can enjoy a sublime blend of history and contemporary luxury. e hotel’s spa, located in an 18th-century villa, provides a sanctuary of wellness with treatments that harness the natural properties of the lake. Also on the tranquil shores of Lake Como, the stunning Passalacqua invites guests into a world of re ned luxury. is historic villa, with its unique rooms, expansive gardens, and private pier, epitomizes Italian elegance and the art of hospitality.

Each of these destinations provides a unique window into Italy’s rich tapestry of history, culture, and natural beauty. Whether it’s the sun-kissed cli s of the Amal Coast or the quiet elegance of Lake Como, Italy’s summer allure is timeless, o ering the perfect backdrop for both relaxation and exploration. As you plan your travels, consider these luxurious retreats for a truly memorable Italian summer.

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HOTEL IL PELLICANO The ultimate in Italian chic, the Tuscan seaside resort was originally conceived as a private club and memorialized by famed society photographer Slim Aarons. BORGO SAN PIETRO Located in the heart of Tuscany in a centuries old farmhouse, the boutique property features a state-of-the-art cooking school where guests can master their Italian culinary skills. BELMOND SPLENDIDO Situated on a Porto no hillside overlooking the harbor of this charming Italian Riviera village, the hotel oozes elegance and exceptional service along with luxurious accommodations. JK PALACE For an unforgettable stay in Capri, the J.K. Palace is unmatched. The 22 rooms o er jaw-dropping views of the Gulf of Naples and the Lounge Bar is the ideal spot for a sunset aperitivo. IL SAN PIETRO POSITANO Located just outside of Positano, Il San Pietro is all about understated luxury, from the Michelin-starred restaurant, private beach, and tennis courts just steps from the Mediterranean Sea.

Experience French air, a taste of Italy and Middle Eastern vibes at these globally in uenced restaurants that o er a gastronomic getaway without ever leaving the city. ese restaurants provide not just meals, but a passport to delightful culinary worlds inspired by the charm and style of vacation destinations across the globe.

THERE’S A PLACE

CASADONNA—A new venture from Groot Hospitality and Tao Group, Casadonna revamps the Miami dining scene with its spectacular waterfront location at Miami’s historic Women’s Club building. This restaurant pays homage to the Italian Riviera with a menu that emphasizes seafood and handmade pastas, set against the backdrop of Biscayne Bay. With its lush garden settings and expansive views, Casadonna combines the grandeur of historic architecture with the breezy elegance of coastal Italy, setting the scene for an unforgettable evening where Miami meets the Mediterranean. 1737 N Bayshore Dr 1st Floor, Miami, FL

IF YOU WANT AN AUTHENTIC ITALIAN MEAL WITH STUNNING BACKDROP …

IF YOU WANT TO EXPERIENCE MIDDLE EASTERN HOSPITALITY …

HABIBI—For those in the know, Habibi is a secret worth discovering.

Tucked away in an undescriptive warehouse in Bushwick (and accessible via a freight elevator), this pop-up dining experience by the team from Palm Heights in Grand Cayman captures the essence of Levantine hospitality with a New York twist. The family-style feasts, infused with the rich avors of the Middle East and North Africa, transport guests — at least energetically — to far-away lands without leaving the city.

154 Scott Ave, Brooklyn, NY

MAISON CLOSE—Looking for French elegance with a party vibe?

Maison Close in New York City has got both covered. With a Belle Epoque-inspired interior including nods to the “’Moulin Rogue,’ this SoHo gem o ers more than just a dining experience (although the dishes from Chef Geo rey Lechantoux like Black Cod Buerre Blanc and Coq Au Vin are delightful); at Maison Close, where Parisian chic meets New York energy, it’s also about having fun and enjoying life like the French do.

15 Watts St, New York, NY

IF YOU WANT TO FEEL THE PARISIAN VIBE WITHOUT LEAVING HOME …

NIKKI BEACH—Since its inception in 1998, Nikki Beach Miami has epitomized the luxury beach club experience, inspiring not only global locations but countless imitators. Located at the iconic 1 Ocean Drive, Nikki Beach — there are now 11 locations and 5 resorts worldwide — has perfected the art of beachside luxury., o ering everything from sushi rolls to rotisserie chicken alongside live DJ sets. Whether it’s lounging on a daybed or enjoying a beachside cocktail, Nikki Beach remains a quintessential Miami hotspot for glitterati and beach lovers alike.

1 Ocean Dr, Miami Beach, FL

CUCINA ALBA—Imagine stepping o the busy streets of New York and into the sun-drenched Italian Riviera. Cucina Alba o ers just that with its elegant, breezy interiors reminiscent of coastal Italy. Designed by Prince Street Hospitality, this restaurant mimics the artful leisure of la dolce vita along with creative dishes inspired by Italian classics — pasta include Lobster Spaghetti and Gnocchi with Morels, with standout main dishes Dover Sole Livornese, Pork Chop Toscana, and Chicken Alla Diavola — paired with signature cocktails including the Rosa in Bianco mezcal negroni and the Albicocca Spritz with gin and sweet apricot. “Alba is an ode to Holidays in Italy with a feeling of soft luxury and understated elegance,” Prince Street Hospitality founder Cobi Levy, tells GRAZIA USA. “The food and beverage program mirrors the elegant avors of Italy.”

511 W 18th St, New York, NY

YOU CAN’T MAKE IT TO THE ITALIAN RIVIERA ...

IF
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IF YOU’RE LOOKING FOR
CLUB VIBE …
A FRENCH BEACH

A PRESTO!

The Union Of The Snake

PHOTOGRAPHY SANTIAGO RUISEÑOR

STYLING ANNIE LASK

Since the 1940s the storied Roman jeweler Bulgari has been reimagining its enigmatic Serpenti motif time and again. Re ning the ever-evolving icon from watches, with round and rectangular dials, to hidden dials housed inside spectacularly jeweled snake heads even slithering its way to the brand’s most high jewelry collections. Each unique piece uses the house’s ingenious Tubogas technique, which involves wrapping strips of metal, without welding, to provide unparalleled ergonomics and exibility. In Serpenti’s newest iteration, Viper, the collection is stripped of all embellishments to celebrate its most pure form of beauty. O ered in 18k yellow, rose, or white gold alongside spellbinding pavé pieces, Serpenti Viper is simply enchanting. And as even Eve can attest, it is rather hard to resist the temptation of a serpent.

Special thanks to @GraziaMéxico

BVLGARI Serpenti Viper 18 kt white gold necklace set with full pavé diamonds, Serpenti Viper 18 kt white gold pendant necklace set with full pavé diamonds. From Left: Serpenti Viper one-coil 18 kt white gold bracelet, Serpenti Viper one-coil 18 kt white gold bracelet set with full pavé diamonds, Serpenti Viper one-coil 18 kt white gold ring set with full pavé diamonds. Serpenti Viper one-coil 18 kt rose gold ring, Serpenti Viper 18 kt rose gold wedding band, bulgari.com.

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