THE MEXICAN MOMENTUM – FROM SIESTA TO FIESTA There is also a wealth of incredibly talented Mexican-born chefs and chefs of Mexican descent showcasing authentic specialties in the United States. Here are several from two generations:
Chef hugo ortega Hugo Ortega is a native of Puebla, Mexico, and one of the foremost chefs making his mark with Mexican in the U.S. today. This versatile trendsetter operates Backstreet Café (seasonal American), Hugo’s (regional Mexican) and Prego (neighborhood Italian) in Houston. Several years ago, Ortega premiered Caracol Mexican Coastal Cuisine, also in Houston, paying homage to the abundance of fresh Mexican delicacies from the sea. Ortega wanted to showcase the authentic regional and historic dishes of the sixteen states sited
along its vast coastline, either on the Pacific Ocean, Gulf of Mexico or the Caribbean. In 2003, Ortega and his brother Jose Luis, who is also a chef, refined their technique for making conch ceviche together on the beach in Playa del Carmen. He named Caracol, which means “conch” in Spanish, in honor of the occasion; and ceviche is, of course, one of the specialties of the house. Chef Ortega has published several cookbooks, and has been nominated this year by the James Beard Foundation as “2016 Best Chef: Southwest.”
Chefs zarela martinez & aaron sanchez Aaron Sanchez has followed in his mother’s footsteps. She is Zarela Martinez, who was born in Mexico and began her cooking career in Texas. She operated the acclaimed Zarela in New York City from 1987 to 2011. Both mother and son mentored under Chef Paul Prudhomme in New Orleans, and Sanchez began his culinary career helping his mother with her catering business. Sanchez, who was born in El Paso, Texas, was executive chef at both Paladar and Centrico in New York. He is an author
and prolific TV personality on the Food Network, most recognizable as a co-starring judge on the hit show, “Chopped.” In 2014, Sanchez teamed up with fellow James Beard Award winner, Louisiana Chef John Besh, to open Johnny Sanchez in Baltimore -- followed by another in New Orleans. The restaurant is described as a “chic authentic taqueria that embodies the warmth of traditional Mexican cooking with the fun and genuine hospitality of New Orleans.” The menu promises an authentic Mexican experience.
When it comes to ethnic cuisine, Mexican food is one of the tried-and-true winners. If you have a suspicion that your menu is taking a bit of a siesta, perhaps it’s time to change things up with a little fiesta. The next time you tackle menu engineering or just decide it’s time for a bit of tweaking and refreshing, consider adding some of the fabulous specialties that have come out of Mexico. Visit the websites of the restaurants listed here and other successful Mexican concepts, examine the menus and strategize ways that your operation can incorporate Mexican winners into your current offerings. Do not be daunted by stories of the difficulties of preparing mole sauce or ceviche. Start by putting your own trendy spin on the more basic items — such as buffalo burritos with chilis and fresh Mexican cheese; shrimp and heirloom tomato tacos; and sizzling vegetable fajitas with sriracha-spiked polenta. If your customers approve, expand from there. n
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