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shishamo—five little smelts dredged in flour and salt, then deep-fried and served up nice and hot with a drizzle of shoyu and a side of shichimi. My wife—though a fan of It is said that opening and operating a most seafood—was not fond of the fishies. successful restaurant is one of the toughest They might be a bit too “fishy” for some, jobs around. Keeping a ramen shop open but I loved every bite right down to their in Reno appears to be a particularly tricky crispy little tails. business—with three of the last five openAfter so much fun with the starters, our ing and closing in fewer than four years. bowls of ramen were like a bonus round. Latest on the scene, Uchi Ramen occupies Ranging from $10-$14, every bowl starts a comfortable space with seating for with pork bone tonkotsu broth simmered perhaps 30. The menu features Japanese for up to 20 hours. My wife’s Mi-So-Hot street food favorites. I had fresh air for ($12) included red miso, soy-braised pork lunch, ensuring a big appetite for dinner. belly, spicy ground pork, corn, scallion, There are only four appetizers, plus sesame, fried chili and ajitama—a halved, a couple of yakitori—grilled, skewered six minute boiled and marinated egg that I meat—options offered. I ordered the considered one of the best things in the lot—or tried to; they were out of chicken bowl. I ordered Uchi-Kuro ($12) with thigh. No worries, though, as the pair of shoyu, black garlic sauce, fried garlic, fatty, crispy pork belly skewers ($5) with charred pork belly, ajitama, wood ear a bit of shichimi Japanese spice blend on mushroom, sesame seed, baby spinach the side held their own just fine. The other and scallion. There’s a decent list of apps—each $4—were plates of deep-fried extras you can add goodness, with all save for a buck each. I one delivered in record added marinated time. It was as if the bamboo shoot. 400 W. Fifth St., 800-1975 chef knew what we Uchi Ramen is open Tuesday through Sunday from The Mi-So-Hot were going to order 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Note: The restaurant’s name may broth was sweet— before we did. be changed in the near future. perhaps from the Shrimp shumai copious amount of dumplings were crispy corn—but with plenty of kick on the back and much more flavorful than the typical end. The meat was tender and not dry, and steamed Chinese dim sum variety. Served the noodles were just a little past al dente with a spicy sauce, those five morsels and tasted fresh. The broth in my bowl was quickly disappeared. Just as good was a savory and complex, with similar results plate of four pork gyoza with the same on meat and noodles and excellent veggies. sauce, plus shoyu and scallion for dipping. In fact, there were so many goodies in More complex in preparation and flavor, the bowl that there was barely room for three takoyaki—battered balls of octopus the broth; it acted more as a sauce for and tempura scraps topped with fish flake everything, rather than a soup. Both bowls and Japanese mayo—were hot and gooey were extremely satisfying, if a bit difficult goodness in a bowl. I really enjoy this to finish after all those great small plates. combination of flavor and texture, and Uchi The word “uchi” is Japanese for does a great job of it. “home,” and I’m hoping these folks are Last to arrive, because they take able to break the curse and make Reno more time to prepare and cook, were home for years to come. Ω
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A bowl of Uchi-Kuro ramen features charred pork belly among its ingredients.
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