by ToDD SouTh
Bazaar European Deli & Cafe serves a variety of sweet treats. PHOTO/ALLISON YOUNG
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cream in the center. Served with a few slices of rye bread, this was some serious comfort food. Blinchiki—Russian crepes—are much like the Swedish pancakes I grew up with, Although Eastern European fare is not a bit thicker and softer in texture than a new to Reno, Bazaar European Deli & French crepe. We sampled the four varietCafe aims to supply a healthy variety of ies offered—sweet ($6), farmer’s cheese foodstuffs from the steppes. There are ($6.50), red caviar ($7.50) and smoked refrigerated deli cases with an array of salmon ($7.50). Each order came with two meats, smoked fish, cheeses and prepared rolled crepes and a dollop of sour cream. foods. Baked goods, ranging from breads The sweet crepes were topped with a to desserts, are plentiful. There’s some raspberry spread, while the cheese rolls fresh produce and a large collection of were filled with something akin to ricotta; frozen items. both plates were sprinkled with powdered The cafe offers a variety of coffee, sugar. The red caviar and smoked salmon beer, wine and specialty drinks, sandplates were sprinkled with dill, parsley and wiches and other dishes. There’s also scallion. Although just a few tablespoons of an array of condiments, garnishes and fish eggs adorned the caviar plate, that was an enormous amount of sweet treats— plenty. The strongly fishy apparently the peoples and salty flavors were barely of the former U.S.S.R. cut by the pancake and sour really love their cream. I like anchovies, fish candied goodies. eggs and the like—but, man, I’m guessing most that stuff packs a punch. 3652 S. Virginia St., 870-9095 Americans who’ve Siberian style pelmeni Bazaar European Deli & Cafe is open from heard of or experienced dumplings ($6.99) stuffed 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. borscht probably associwith pork and beef were ate it with Russia, and served in a very light broth the folks in Moscow do love a good bowl with herbs and sour cream, perhaps one of of beet stew. However, it’s centuries-old the most satisfying dumpling dishes I’ve origin lies in Ukraine as a sour stew of meat tried. This was followed by two salads, and hogweed root (also known as cow parsshuba and olivier. nip). It wasn’t until perhaps the 18th century The shuba ($3.19) is a layered rectangle that the Poles introduced beetroot as the of shredded potato, carrot, beets, onion, primary ingredient, eventually replacing the egg and herring, dressed with mayonnaise original completely. and seasoned with salt and pepper. The There are hundreds of variations flavors worked pretty well together, but the on borscht amongst Slavic peoples and texture wasn’t my favorite. Olivier salad throughout Eastern Europe—some skipping ($2.69)—also known simply as Russian beets entirely—but the bowl served at salad—is a mayonnaise-dressed mix of Bazaar was a tasty classic ($4.99). Beet boiled and diced potato, carrot, dill pickle, juice was stewed with chunks of beef, then green pea, egg, celeriac, onion and meat, combined with sauteed cabbage, carrot, seasoned with salt, pepper and mustard. We beets, herbs and other seasonings. The dill asked what the meat was, and the chef said, was a noticeable presence. The bowl was “No meat. Bologna.” Well, sure. I’m OK served nice and warm with a dollop of sour with that. Ω
Bazaar European Deli & Cafe
Coffee / Motorcycles 131 Pine Street 7am - 7pm Daily
seeseemotorcycles.com
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