This guy saves you money.
by Todd SouTh
owner Tim Magee with a bowl of ravioli in scallion broth from Calafuria’s fixed price menu.
Ciao down
was so little of it to enjoy. The six diminutive morsels looked even smaller compared with the pile of pasta tubes on my plate, served atop a pool of pecorino cream and A multi-course, fixed price meal is one of topped with toasted pine nuts, oven-roasted my favorite options when trying a new tomato and basil-infused oil. My wife’s place, and recently-opened Calafuria dish was good, but the rigatoni was incredprovides just such a dinner ($39 per person) ibly good and much more substantive. on Friday and Saturday evenings. Named Pork belly or beef “tacos” were our for a region of the Tuscan coast of Italy secondo choices. My wife’s taco plate with a focus on Livornese cuisine, the demonstrated a high degree of creativity, dishes range from rustic to refined. We with shells of very thin, roasted celery root chose to dine al fresco and ordered a bottle filled with locally-sourced braised beef, of house red wine ($20), making for a very pickled turnip and spicy pepper aioli, served pleasant way to spend a warm late summer on roasted beets and finished with a bit of evening. the braising liquid—again, a very attractive Service throughout the meal was and delicious plate, but not without issues. friendly and professional. The antipasto Trying to get a bite of taco by hand was a course included a green salad and a flaked messy mistake, and attempting to cut it with tuna salad with chickpea, onion and a fork led to tearing it apart. It occurred tomato. Both salads were tossed in a light to me—too late—that they only look like vinaigrette. A selection of thinly sliced tacos. My wife had better success by startbread, pizza and cecina—a sort of chickpea ing with the fork. crepe—was provided Continuing the along with housemade theme of our precedsausage, coppa and ing course, my plate artfully prepared giar725 S. Center St. featured two sizeable Calafuria is open Tuesday to Thursday from 10 diniera. This collection slices of pork belly, a.m. to 8:30 p.m. and Friday to Saturday from 10 of goodies would have a.m. to 6 p.m. slow-roasted and then made for a pretty nice seared. The meat lunch on its own. I was was laid on a bed of glad a taste of pizza was included. The broccoli rapini and creamy broccoli purée. thick, flavorful crust was brushed lightly I could have actually done with more of the with fresh-tasting tomato sauce and a dollop rapini and less of the pig, but that’s mostly of melted cheese. The sausage, served in because I love the veg and—for my taste— marinara, had a firm texture and robust a little pork belly goes a long way. flavor without a bit of greasiness. The dryDolce was small and simple, a bit of cured pork was nicely seasoned, combining vanilla cream topped with a couple spoonwell with the pickled veggies, olives and fuls of fresh, diced peach. After a meal like slivers of hard cheese. that, I appreciate a dessert that isn’t heavy For the primo course, my wife selected or overly sweet. As we finished the wine butternut ravioli with pancetta. I went and enjoyed the ambience and conversawith rigatoni. The ravioli filling of roasted tion, I knew it wouldn’t be long before I’d squash and Parmesan was very smooth want to return for a sample of their enticing and mild in flavor, allowing the sauce of lunch menu, particularly that yummy, scallion-infused vegetable broth, sage-butter crusty pizza. Ω foam and rosemary-infused olive oil to
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stand out. The dish looked very pretty and tasted great—which made it sad that there
