Sept. 15, 2016

Page 21

by Todd SouTh

Photo/AlliSon Young

shrimp was a bit overcooked and chewy. My wife and daughter said it was OK, but after a couple of squishy bites, I had to wave off and just let them enjoy it. Much, much better was a big plate of Singapore mei fun ($11). This mix of rice vermicelli stir-fried with chicken, pork and shrimp in curry powder and other seasonOne of my favorite things about many ings is one of my favorite things. This forms of Asian cuisine is how well they edition was the definition of umami—very work when you have more than a couple savory—with garlic, scallion, fish sauce, of people sharing a meal. You can nearly five spice and heaven knows what else. always find at least one item that will It’s almost impossible to describe the satisfy your dining companions, and SF flavor combination, because with each bite Kitchen’s combination of Chinese and it seemed as though something else rang Vietnamese offerings didn’t disappoint. through. I’d eat this treat for breakfast, Upon entry, I noticed how fragrant the lunch and dinner. place is, with a predominance of star anise A shared bowl of fried wor wonton and Thai basil wafting from the kitchen. soup ($9) was served piping hot with a My group got off to a good start with orders simple broth, plenty of veggies and fluted, of spring rolls ($6), summer rolls ($6), pork-filled wontons. I mention the appearand pot stickers ($7). The shrimp and pork ance of the dumplings because I don’t spring rolls with peanut sauce were quite know that I’ve seen them good, and the summer served that way in a bowl rolls—a nice combinaof soup, and the wrappertion of grilled beef and to-meat ratio seemed a bit veg—were served with a off. While perhaps not the 1775 Mill St., 786-7747 mixture of citrus, spices SF Kitchen is open 11 a.m. to 9 p.m, best bowl of war wonton, it and fish sauce. The fried Monday to Saturday. still had adequate flavor and pork dumplings were was shared and enjoyed. average in size and flavor, One menu item in but they were only browned on one side. particular caught my eye because I’ve This left them a bit doughy, though still only seen it once or twice at other places enjoyable. around town: oxtail pho ($10, when Ample plates of sesame chicken and available). I wasn’t sure what to expect, General’s pork ($10 each)—served with but holy mother of beefy goodness, it was steamed broccoli—were crispy despite impressive. The bowl included all the being tossed with plenty of sauce. The usual pho components—noodles, veggies, chicken’s sauce was sweet without being broth—with the addition of at least eight syrupy. The pork’s sweet and savory sauce oxtail bones loaded with plenty of meat. had just the right amount of heat. Entrees The broth’s flavor was extremely satisfyare served with white rice. Fried rice is a ing, and though nibbling the meat off the couple of bucks extra. bones was a bit of a challenge, the extra A serving of walnut shrimp ($14) was a effort was well worth the result. little disappointing. The sauce was creamy The service was very efficient and and lightly sweetened—with plenty of friendly. The atmosphere comfortable. And candied walnut halves—but the tempura we barely dented the menu on our first visit coating didn’t hold up very well, and the We’ll definitely be back for more. Ω

This guy saves you money.

Sweet and savory

owner and chef Sang Vong offers a spread of Chinese and Vietnamese cuisines, from spring rolls and pho to pan fry and soups.

Family owned and serving Northern Nevada for over 50 years!!

SF Kitchen

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All-Purpose Tarps 5’x7’ to 20’x40’

Repurposed Metal & Poly Barrels

Made in the U.S.A Canvas & Poly Avail.

5-55 Gallons Food Grade Avail.

SHOP US ON

1675 E. 4th St. Reno. NV 89512 Mon-Sat 9:00am - 6:00pm Sunday 10:00am - 4:00pm (775) 323-5630 9.15.16

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